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10 Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine Supplement No.

10 Volume 78 1985

Neglected aspects in the management of acne

B Gordon MB BS
Consultant Dermatologist, The Royal Infirmary,
New Durham Road, Sunderland SR2 7JE

Acne, 'the scourge of adolescence' -'the self-assertion and independence, they probably
commonest skin disease of adolescence', if not in develop a subconscious feeling of insecurity. On
fact the commonest of all diseases of adolescence, top of all this they develop acne, facial spots and
is possibly the most unsuccessfully treated of all pimples, to add to their self-consciousness, shyness
skin diseases in general practice, and not so and misery.
successfully treated in many skin clinics either. To obtain their cooperation in the treatment of
The reason for failure is often blamed on poor their acne it is very important to obtain their
patient compliance but patient compliance can only confidence. From the outset the practitioner,
be expected if patient instruction is adequate. general or specialist, must present himself to patient
Inadequate patient instruction is, in my belief, the and parent as a caring, interested and sympathetic
main cause of the patient not becoming fully counsellor. To tell the patient that 'he only has
involved in his own management and not being teenage spots and he'll grow out of them' is not
totally committed to success and is ultimately the only cruel and unkind, but also destroys any hiape
main cause of failure in so many cases. In this paper of patient compliance eventhougfi thedoctorwrites
I want to highlight this failure of communication out and hands to the patient a prescriiption for an
and I want to deal with it in a very practical antibiotic and a peeling agent. Tem to fifteen
manner, i.e. in the words GPs would use themselves minutes spent with the patient and parents
when talking to their acne patients. I therefore explaining the nature of the disease and its long-
include no statistics, graphs or histograms and no term management wil be time spent well and
detail from the vast amount of academic research rewardingly.
into the aetiology of acne which has been carried Successful therapy depends on an understanding
out in recent years, and is still going on. of what we are aiming to achieve and then how to
In order to master the treatment of acne and achieve it. I would ike to discuss the histological
especially the neoalected aspects, which I intend to structure of the pilosebaceous unit which is the
emphasize, it is necessary to understand firstly the anatomical site of the acne lesion. Under the
psychology of the acne patient, and secondly the influence of androgenic hormones at puberty the
pathophysiology of the acne lesion itself. Acne following changes occur:
starts at puberty and proceeds through adolescence. (1) The sebaceous glands enlarge and activate,
Age at onset is often as young as 12 or 13 but only producing an abundance of sebum.
tends to resolve in most cases between the ages of (2) There is a greatly enhanced flow of sebum along
20-25. It may therefore affect many adolescents the sebaceous duct, along the infundibulum to
for ten years or more - more or less a seventh part the skin surface - hence the greasy skin of acne.
of a total lifespan - through a period when they are (3) The infundibulum becomes colonized with
subjected to considerable and stressful hormonal, Propionibacterium acnes (the acne bacillus) and
emotional and sociological changes. These young with Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. alba).
patients are often bewildered by and apprehensive (4) The amount of keratin increases in the
of the pubertal changes which they are going pilosebaceous unit, especially in the
through. They are trying to establish and assert infundibulum and surrounding the ostium.
themselves in an adult world and consequently tend These changes and events lead to the formation of
to reject parental and teacher authority so that the comedone: closed (the whitehead) or open (the
their behaviour sometimes becomes quite antisocial blackhead). The comedone is the basic lesion of
or, at least, difficult to manage. Unless they acne and all other acne lesions: the papule, pustule,
have extremely loving, caring and understanding the hard lump and the fluctuant cyst all develop
parents, friction and estrangement between parents from this comedone. I will therefore consider the
and child occurs, and despite their desire for management of acne from these four basic changes.
Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine Supplement No. 10 Volume 78 1985 11

The greasy skin to the grease already on the face and often explains,
There has been much research into the composition in some patients, the localized concentration of
of sebum which need not be expanded upon here; acne lesions on one or other site. An attempt to
but acne vulgaris only occurs in a greasy skin, it hide acne on the forehead by wearing a fringe will
does not occur in a non-greasy skin or in an often aggravate the acne because the grease from
adequately degreased skin. Dealing with the greasy the hair adds to the grease on the forehead. Apart
skin is therefore the most important part of the from this, one should dispel the mistaken belief that
treatment of acne. The grease on the skin may be: greasy hair is the cause of the acne; even doctors
(1) Endogenous: sebum and disintegrating epi- will sometimes refer a patient with a letter stating
thelium. that the acne has not improved despite the use of
(2) Exogenous i.e. applied from without. this or the other shampoo!
(i) Greasy cosmetics. How then in practical terms does one deal
(ii) Cleansing creams. with greasy skin? Lowering the level of sebum
(iii) Moisturizing creams. production with anti-androgens or by the use of
(iv) Superfatted soaps. the vitamin A derivative, the retinoid 13-cis retinoic
It may not be strictly true, but it forms a good acid or Roaccutane, is certainly not a first line
working hypothesis, that the severity of acne is treatment and, at present, is not licensed for use
proportional to the amount of grease on the skin. in general practice. Neither should the oral
Endogenous grease alone may be sufficiently contraceptive type of pill Diane be used as a first
excessive to produce acne but in many cases the line treatment of acne, but should only be
natural grease of the skin is insufficient to cause considered if basic treatment, which is dealt with
acne until some extraneous grease is added and I below, is not entirely satisfactory. Diane should,
believe this is why many girls only develop acne of course, be considered for the acne patient who
when they begin using cosmetics, even if only is already taking or wishes to start the pill for
occasionally, at about the age of fifteen. Most contraceptive purposes.
cosmetics are grease based. Acne is a non-specific Therefore, endeavours to deal with greasy skin
reaction to grease and any grease applied to the must be aimed at degreasing the skin by the use
skin, adding to the natural sebum, can cause acne. of suitable soaps or other degreasing agents and
Other examples of this are well known. peeling agents. Once achieved, peeling will, in lay
(1) In days gone by when camphorated oil was terms, unblock the pores and prevent further
commonly applied to the chests and backs of blockage, thus avoiding the development of
babies with chesty colds and coughs, it blackheads and subsequent papules, pustules, etc.
frequently caused infantile acne. Degreasing the face is best achieved by washing the
(2) Oil acne on the thighs of industrial workers face at least three times a day using Neutrogena
whose dungarees become oil sodden is well acne cleansing soap (not available on FP1O), Acne
recognized. Aid Bar, pHiso-Med or similar products and, after
(3) Severe acne and its resultant scarring is often each wash, applying a peeling agent. In the past,
evident in TV close-ups of actors and actresses sulphur and resorcin were commonly used as
who are subject to regular applications of heavy peeling agents but the most commonly used today,
grease paint. Such cosmetics and grease paints and probably the most effective, is benzoyl
are then removed by the use of cleansing creams peroxide in 2.5%, 50o or 1007o strengths. It is
which simply replaces one grease with another. sometimes combined with sulphur, as in Benoxyl
(4) The use of widely advertised superfatted soaps, or with hydroxyquinoline, as in Quinoderm. The
such as Camay, Knight's Castille, Palmolive, use of a gel formulation makes most of these
Imperial Leather, leave a thin film of fat on the preparations aesthetically acceptable to patients for
skin and so add to the natural greasiness of the daytime use.
skin and can precipitate and aggravate acne It is advisable to start with a weak preparation,
vulgaris. A superfatted soap has 6-7% free fatty i.e. 2.5%, and, if well tolerated, to step up to 5%
acids as opposed to 1 % or less in ordinary or 10%o, which will produce a mild but evident
soap.) peeling. It is very important to explain to patient
The avoidance of all exogenous grease is a very and parent what they are trying to achieve. With
important aspect in the management of acne. gentle peeling the skin will feel dry and a little tight;
this is not only to be expected but should be
The aggravation of greasiness by handling encouraged and maintained. Such dryness and
Most teenageers with acne are students, either still peeling, provided it does not become excessive, is
at school or at college. Often when studying, not a reason for stopping treatment and on no
especially at home, they will sit reading or writing account should moisturizing creams be used to
with one hand firmly pressed to their forehead or counteract the dryness.
their chin. This grease present on the hand is added If, despite concerted attempts to degrease the
12 Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine Supplement No. 10 Volume 78 1985

skin and produce peeling, the skin remains greasy, excessively greasy pilosebaceous follicles, con-
extra cleansing of the skin after washing will often verting the triglycerides of the sebum into free
succeed using a white cotton handkerchief soaked fatty acids. Possibly the presence of excess
in isopropyl alcohol. This is highly inflammable: free fatty acids in turn causes the thickening of the
the patient should be warned to keep it away from keratin layer in the follicle and on the skin surface,
a naked flame, not to smoke while applying it and leading to blockage of the follicles and the
to keep the bottle in a cool place and tightly formation of blackheads and whiteheads. It is
stoppered when not in use. After cleaning with the likely, however, that clusters of these organisms
alcohol the peeling agent is then applied. trapped in the follicle increase the degree of
If during the course of treatment, especially in inflammatory reaction leading to the formation of
the early stages, the degreasing and peeling process pustules and abscesses.
goes beyond the required slight flaking and mild Adequate degreasing and peeling by improving
tightness, the treatment could be discontinued for follicle 'drainage' probably greatly reduces the
only a very short time, perhaps 24 or 48 hours, until harmful effects of the organisms without recourse
the excessive soreness has eased; it should then be to antibiotic therapy. However, suitable antibiotics
resumed at a slightly lower level, i.e. perhaps have been shown to reduce the colonization of the
reducing to twice a day until tolerance is achieved follicle and so reduce the number of blackheads and
and then again trying thrice daily washing and pustules. But I am sure that degreasing and peeling
application, or by reducing the strength of the without antibiotics is a more effective treatment of
peeler to a lower percentage: from 1007 to 5% or acne than antibiotics alone without degreasing and
5% to 2.5%7o. Quinoderm is more likely to produce peeling. Nevertheless, it is reasonable to assume
redness of the face than other benzoyl peroxide that the combination of both is more beneficial.
preparations. This is probably due to the hydroxy- The use of antibiotics, therefore, is only a part,
quinoline content of Quinoderm and when this and a minor part at that, of the treatment of acne.
happens it is advisable to change to a different The use of antibiotics needs to be low-dose and
benzoyl peroxide preparation. long-term and patients and parents need to be
Once the finely balanced degree of peeling is reassured of the safety of such a regimen. I have
achieved the patient must strive to maintain that never been convinced of the need to start antibiotic
state by continuing regular treatment for several therapy for acne with a full-dose regimen such as
years until the early or mid-twenties when, in most one would use for an overt infection. Why risk side
patients, the tendency to acne spots will cease. effects? Why complicate the instructions you have
to give the patient more than is necessary?
Alternative peeling agents
These are rarely needed. Which antibiotics?
Sulphur lotion 6%o in calamine. Long-term safety, efficacy and cost are the main
Sulphur and resorcin paste. considerations.
Retin-A gel. Oxytetracycline is probably the most commonly
used antibiotic in acne. In low dosage it has proved
The use of antibiotics in acne to be safe for long-term use and it can be continued
May I remind you of the four pathological changes in a dose of 250 mg twice daily for two or three
which I mentioned earlier: years if necessary. It should never be given for less
(1) Overactivity of sebaceous glands. than six months. It is certainly effective and it is
(2) Excessive greasiness of the skin. relatively cheap. It is said to interfere with the
(3) Colonization of the infundibulum by P. acnes action and effectiveness of oral contraceptives, but
and S. epidermidis. I believe this has recently been strongly disputed.
(4) Increase of thickness of the keratin lining the Pregnancy and breast feeding are, of course,
infundibulum of the pilosebaceous duct, and contraindications and relevant patients should be
surrounding the ostium of the follicle at the skin so warned. However, the use of oxytetracycline is
surface. one of the most mismanaged aspects in the
I have dealt with 1, 2 and 4; 1 is presently not treatment of acne. Most doctors are aware that
controllable by ordinary basic treatment; 2 and 4 oxytetracycline is bound by calcium and serum
can both be corrected by the processes of albumin and by alkalies, so the drug loses much
degreasing and peeling if properly carried out. of its effectiveness if taken with food; the patient
This leaves us with the presence of the acne is, in any case, only taking a low dose and if most
bacillus and the S. epidermidis in the ducts. The of this is lost by binding the benefit obtained will
role of these organisms in acne is not fully be negligible. This must be carefully explained to
understood or agreed upon. It is probable that they the patient, whose compliance is likely to be much
are not primarily concerned in causing acne but, greater if he understands why he is being asked to
instead, they are 'opportunists' which thrive in the do certain things. Detailed, and preferably printed,
Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine Supplement No. 10 Volume 78 1985 13

instructions should be given. Oxytetracycline with little or no facial acne. Trunk acne u'sually
administration depends on two principles: involves the upper back and chest and shoulders,
(1) It must be taken on an empty stomach, i.e but in some cases it may extend well down the back,
nothing (except water) can be taken for two even as far as and onto the buttocks.
and a half to three hours before taking the Trunk acne may be precipitated in patients with
tablet. facial acne by wearing wool or wool-like clothing
(2) Nothing is to be eaten or drunk (except water) in direct contact with the skin, e.g. sweaters or the
for at least half an hour after taking the tablet. fluffy inside of a sweat shirt. The skin should be
This is so that the tablet has time to disintegrate insulated from such garments by wearing a smooth
in the stomach and be absorbed into the blood cotton blouse, shirt or T-shirt next to the skin. A
stream before it has had an opportunity of sweat shirt can be worn inside-out so that the
coming in contact with food in the stomach and smooth surface is next to the skin. If acne is
so becoming 'bound'. accentuated around the neck, enquire if a wool
My advice to patients is to take the first tablet each scarf or muffler is worn, or even a furry collared
day as soon as they wake up in the morning, overcoat.
washing it down if necessary with water only, no
tea or coffee. They should place a tablet and glass Topical therapy of trunk acne
of water by their bedside when they retire to bed It is not practical to apply proprietary peeling
the previous evening; by the time they get up, go agents packed in tubes to the fairly extensive areas
to the toilet, wash, dress and comb their hair, a of trunk that need to be treated. A sulphur lotion is
half hour will have elapsed and they may then have, much more practical, and economical. I invariably
if they wish, a cup of tea or breakfast. The second prescribe:
tablet of the day is best taken half an hour before
the evening meal, ensuring that nothing is eaten Sulphur precipitate 6%
or drunk during the afternoon, i.e. no afternoon Teepol 1.5%
cups of tea and biscuits, at home or the office, no Calamine lotion ad 100%
sweets, chocolates, crisps etc. at school or on the Mitte 500 ml
way home from school. The actual time of taking
the second tablet is not critical and may vary but Sulphur preparations tend to have an unpleasant
it must always be taken in accord with the above smell and therefore this application is only used at
principles. bedtime and should be dabbed on with a cotton
The advantage of this pre-evening meal dosage handkerchief. The help of a parent or friend is
is that it leaves the whole of the evening after the needed for application to the back.
evening meal free of restriction, a time when most Antibiotics are, of course, beneficial for trunk
people watch TV while eating crisps and chocolates acne as well as facial acne.
or go out for a drink, or visit socially or entertain
others and wish to eat and drink.
Alternative antibiotics Summary
If oxytetracycline is contraindicated, i.e pregnancy Acne is the result of excessive grease on the skin.
or lactation, a suitable alternative would be erythro- The successful treatment of acne depends
mycin, 250 mg twice daily. essentially on the degreasing of the skin to an extent
If the acne is rather severe and slow to respond, which produces peeling, which is the observable
despite adequate and intensive local therapy, it index of adequate treatment. The use of antibiotics
might be worth changing to minocycline, 50 mg is supplementary to degreasing and peeling.
twice daily. This may possibly be a little more Degreasing is best achieved by thrice daily washing
effective than oxytetracycline and it does not have with Neutrogena acne cleansing soap, followed by
the same food restrictions, but it is very much more the application of a benzoyl peroxide preparation
expensive - an important consideration especially of a suitable strength. If necessary, further
in long-term use. degreasing can be achieved by cleansing with
The third choice of antibiotics after tetracyclines isopropyl alcohol after washing with the
and erythromycin is co-trimoxazole, one tablet Neutrogena soap.
twice daily.
Avoid
Acne of the trunk Picking, squeezing or any other form of handling;
Acne of the trunk quite often occurs in association greasy cosmetics - water-based foundation lotion
with facial acne, but not necessarily so. Some facial may be used; cleansing creams; wearing fibrous-
acne may have no accompanying trunk acne at all surfaced garments, i.e. wool or wool-like material
and, less commonly, severe trunk acne will occur next to the skin.
14 Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine Supplement No. 10 Volume 78 1985

Antibiotics Printed instructions


Oxytetracycline can be administered unless contra- Name of soap:
indicated; low dosage long-term (250mg twice Neutrogena acne cleansing soap, in red pack.
daily). Give careful instructions about taking Instructions for taking oxytetracycline.
oxytetracycline and explain why.
Follow-up
Repeated encouragement and moral support is
Alternatives: minocycline, erythromycin, co- required; treatment must be reviewed at two or
trimoxazole. three month intervals.

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