Beautifulpieshopmodificationsandcasingpieces Aiid2100556

Modifications for
Maggies Stay-On Booties

By Kate at BeautifulPieShop.etsy.com
Table of Contents:
How to make the booties wider, and how to make bigger sizes than
the womens 12. Also, some discussion on sizing. Page 2
How to make just soft-sole baby shoes, including lining them. This
section is a full tutorial.
Page 3
How to line the sole of the booties. This hides the seams all around
the sole. Page 15
How to hide the elastic. This uses a modified casing piece. Its not
adjustable because the elastic is sewn into the vamp (toe). Page 18
Pattern pieces for the modified casing. Page 25
In case anyone has stumbled upon this file and doesnt know what it is all about =)
These are ways to change up my pattern Maggies Stay-On Baby Booties. It comes in
baby sizes, kid sizes, and tween/adult sizes and is available on etsy and on Craftsy.
We have a fantastic Facebook group that is super helpful and full of pictures for
inspiration! www.facebook.com/groups/beautifulpieshop
When printing pattern pieces, make sure you disable fit to page and/or the size is
set at 100% when you print. Check your print by measuring the 1 square. Seam
allowance is unless otherwise indicated.
Copyright 2016 Kathryn Abbot. Tons of labor and love went into the making of this pattern and tutorial. =)
Please do not distribute, share, or republish this document. Even if it is available for free, please direct
people to the download on Craftsy. Thanks!
Making the Booties Wider, Bigger, & Sizing
If you are making booties for someone with wide feet, you may need to adjust the
pattern.
This photo shows you where you need to cut and

spread your pattern pieces apart to add the width. In
the Facebook group, people have suggested adding
for wide, and for extra wide.
If you need to make a size larger than the largest pattern, it is really easy to adjust.
Shoe sizes are 1/3 apart, so you will add 1/3 to the length of the sole and to the length
of the vamp (toe) for each size increase. You dont need to adjust anything else
legs dont really get fatter as feet get bigger after a certain point. =)
So, for example, if you want to make booties in a mens size 14, that is a womens size
15. That is three sizes larger than the size 12, so you will add 1 to the sole and vamp.
Some more about sizing: You want to make your shoe size. The finished sole size is
still going to be larger than your foot, just like the inside of your shoe is larger than
your foot. =) Shoe charts on the internet will boggle your mind (and mine) so the way
we sized them was based on the Brannock device. Thats the metal thing in shoe
stores. We measured all of our feet and made the whole lineup of booties and tried
them on to decide what bootie was going to be what size. So I know if you have your
foot measured at a shoe store, thats the size you want to make. =)
When I first made the pattern for Maggies booties, I sized them the way soft-sole
shoe companies do by age. I never expected requests for larger sizes. =) So here is
how the baby sizes translate to shoe sizes:
0-3 months is a 0. It sounds small, but my 8- & 9-lb babies wore this size for a long time.
3-6 months is a 1
6-9 months is a 2
9-12 months is a 4
12-18 months is a 5
18-24 months is a 7
Making Soft-Sole Shoes with the Regular Pattern
1) Cut out 2 casing pieces, 4 toe pieces,

and 4 soles. The soles need to mirror
each other, so you have two going
each direction.
One mirror image set is going to be the

lining. The other set will be the outer sole. If
you are using grippy fabric, you need one set
of grippy soles and one set of lining fabric
soles.
2) Mark the slits on two of the toe

pieces one for each shoe. These
are going to be inside the shoe when
it is done. Im going to show you one
shoe from here on out, but you are
making two that are mirror images
of each other. =)
3) Sew buttonholes where you marked.
If you want to, you can just cut slits here and
skip the buttonholes. I usually do buttonholes
on a woven fabric, though.
4) Place a pin where you want your slit

to end.
5) Use your seam ripper to cut toward
the pin.
6) Place the toe piece with buttonholes

right side up, and place a toe piece
without buttonholes right side down
on top of it (right sides together).
Sew across the top with seam
allowance.
This is what it looks like from the

other side. =)
7) Press it open
8) and then fold it wrong sides
together and press it. You can
topstitch this across the straight
edge if you want to, but Im not. =)
9) Fold the casing in half and press.
10) Open it and press the ends in .
11) Fold it back down and press well.
Im so sorry to all the OCD people out there I cut

this piece crooked and didnt have any more of this
fabric. It drives me crazy too. =)
12) Sew around the casing with 1/8 seam
allowance on the sides, and 1/2
allowance across the top.
13) Finish the bottom edge with a zig-zag

or serger.
14) Get a sole and a toe piece ready.

Notice that my toe piece has the
buttonhole side facing up. If you are
using grippy fabric for the sole, this
is where you want to use it.
15) Fold the toe in half to find the center.
16) Place the center of the toe piece
down the center of the sole. Open it
up and put a pin where the centers
meet.
If you prefer, you can fold each piece and pin

the centers and then match the pins.
17) Continue pinning the toe all around

the sole.
18) Fold the casing in half and center it

at the heel end of the sole. Pin it
there at the center.
You can see a little better in this picture,

although you cant see that its centered. =)
19) Continue pinning the casing around
until you are just past the toe piece.
You want to leave the ends free.
Here Im showing you what I mean. =) If you

have made the booties before, youre good.
The ends of the casing arent going to get
stitched down. Just make sure the casing is
even with the edge of the sole up until you
get to the toe. Then bend it out of the way.
20) Pin the ends of the casing out of the

way. You really dont want them
caught in your seam. =)
21) Sew all around the outside with

seam allowance.
22) Place it on the table just like this. Its
still inside out and the sole is down.
23) Place the lining right side down on

top of it.
24) Youll have to smoosh it a bit

because of all the fabric in there. =)
25) Flip the whole thing over so you can

pin on the other side.
26) Pin centers
27) and then fill in with more pins as

much as you need to.
28) Sew around the outside, leaving an

opening for turning at the toe end. I
like to put my needle in the center
position and go right over the first
stitch line.
Here it is all sewn. Im going to put the stitch

line over this picture so you can see clearly
where it is sewn.
29) Clip, clip, clip.
30) Pull the shoe right side out.
Here it is poking through
and turned out. It is going to have the

insole on the outside. So its turned right
side out but at this point it still doesnt look
like the finished shoe.
31) Hand stitch the opening closed.
Here it is all closed.
And here is what the shoe looks like.
32) Flip that right side out. =) Now its

looking like a finished shoe!
33) Cut your elastic to the desired
length. There is a file in the
Facebook group with suggested
measurements if you dont have the
person with you to fit it. I do
recommend leaving a loose knot and
adjusting to fit. Different babies
have different-sized ankles and you
dont want it too loose or too tight. =)
34) Feed the elastic into the casing
35) and out the other side
36) and then through the buttonholes

in one...
I turned the shoe around in this picture.
37) and out the other.
38) Now pull the elastic out far enough

that you can tie a knot.
39) Tie an overhand knot. Trim off the

excess once you know the fit is good.
40) Suck the elastic back into the casing

and turn it so the knot is hidden
inside the casing. Celebrate! You
have cute shoes! =)
Lining the Booties
1) Make a bootie. =)
You can follow the pattern just as it is, and

add an extra layer for the insole. If you dont
want the sole to end up with three layers, you
can omit the fleece when you make the
bootie and then use it as your insole. You
dont need to finish any of the edges except
the bottom of the casing.
2) Turn your bootie inside out.
You can see that I serged this it was a

bootie I had hanging around, so I used it. But
you dont need those edges finished they
are about to get hidden. =)
3) Cut an extra sole layer for the insole.

Ill assume youre making two
booties. =) You want to cut two
mirror-imaged insoles one for each
bootie.
Put your inside-out bootie down on

the table with a mirror-imaged sole
face up next to it. Make sure you get
the proper insole with the proper
shoe. =) See the line of symmetry
between the pieces?
4) Smash the cuff and casing over to

the side as much as you can. =)
5) Flip that insole over and onto the
bootie.
There is a LOT of fabric in there. And I will

just be honest: this is hard. I think its even
harder with the smaller sizes, which is why its
not in the original pattern. I wanted it to be
suitable for beginners. If this is your first
sewing project, Ill just say you are very
brave if you are lining your booties. =) But I
still think you can do it if you stick with me
here. And remember to breathe. =)
6) Pin it in a few places just to get the

placement right.
7) Flip it over and pin all around the

bottom, as far as you can go.
Remove the pins from the other side
you dont want to sew over them. =)
Feel free to play around with this. You may
find that you like pinning and sewing from the
top better. I like sewing it from the bottom
because I like to go right over my original
sole seam.
This is just showing you what it looks like on

the other side. It pulls and puckers so you
have to be careful to make sure you smooth
it out as you sew.
8) Sew all around the bottom, except
for where the cuff is in the way. I
sewed with the fleece side up, but it
is easier to see the opening from this
side, so I took the picture this way.
If this part is confusing, read through how to

make just the shoes. It is easier to
understand how to line the shoes, and once
you understand that, this will make sense.
9) Clip, clip, clip.
10) Turn it right side out. The bootie

itself is still inside out, but the insole
has the right side out now. =)
11) Hand stitch the opening closed.
12) Now turn the whole bootie right side
out and you have a lined sole! Do you
see the owl peeking out the hole? =)
One more note I want to add, now that you

understand how this works: someone in the
Facebook group successfully left their
opening around the toe. I couldnt stuff my
cuff in there enough to do that, but if you
can do it (might depend on the size, and
definitely depends on the fabric you use) I
think its easier to stitch a hole closed in the
toe than on the side.
Modified Casing Instructions
I want to say a couple of things here first. I like the original way better, and I will tell you
why. =) For one thing, its adjustable. After discovering how much my friends kids ankles
differed from my kids ankles, I decided that it was just crucial that it was easy to adjust.
For another, it stretches reallllly far. You have all of that elastic under the toe that can
stretch too, and it is much easier to get them on little wiggly feet. I also think its harder for
a kid to pull off. I dont think the modified version is just going to fall off their foot or
anything, but if you have a shoe-hucker like Maggie who is determined to get their shoes
off, I dont expect the modified ones to be as hard for a kid to get off.
There are some pros to doing the modified casing, too, though. You could make a bootie
without having to finish any edges at all if you also line the sole. Thats a plus. You can
attach the casing and toe to the sole in one step (although you could pin them both on and
do that with the regular pattern if you wanted). Andumokay Im having a hard time
thinking of other pros to this. LOL But I am making these pieces and instructions because a
lot of people in the Facebook group have tried to do it, but not known how to adjust the
size of the casing. And my goal is to help you make booties that YOU love. =) So if you want
to try this, this is how to do it. You should use REALLY stretchy elastic, because you dont
have as much length to stretch with this method. You also have a hole thats much more
limited with the original pattern, your hole is as big as your elastic will stretch because the
casing extends out from under the toe. This way, the casing is sewn in and it can only get so
big. For that reason, this works better on bigger sizes than on smaller sizes.
1) Im just showing one shoe here. This

is a toe out of cotton, a toe out of
fleece, and a modified casing out of
cotton.
2) Fold the casing in half. Stitch away

from the top.
3) Cut your elastic. There is a document
in the Facebook group with elastic
measurements that we are all
collaborating on. Youll have to take
into account the size of your babys
legs
4) Feed your elastic into the casing until

the trailing end of your elastic is at
the edge of the casing. Pin it.
5) Finish pulling the elastic through and

pin it at the other end.
6) Remove the safety pin and sew the

elastic down away from the ends.
7) Place the cotton toe layer right side
up and align one end of the casing
with the straight edge of the toe as
shown. Pin.
8) Curve the casing around and align

the other end of the casing with the
straight edge of the toe as shown.
Pin. Its making the toe curve now,
but thats okay.
9) Now take the fleece toe and place it

over the casing. Youre matching the
toes up the way you normally would,
but the casing is sandwiched
between them. In this picture, Im
just holding it together.
10) Without changing your grip, pull the

pins out of the casing and repin
through all of the layers.
11) Pin it all the way across the top. Sew
with seam allowance.
Here it is sewn. And turned around. It looks

funny, but its right. =)
12) Fold the fleece down
13) and then under the cotton toe.

Now it looks like this.
14) Topstitch across the straight edge of
the toe if you want to.
15) Okay, now were going to be

attaching it to the bootie. Prepare
the cuff and sew it onto the sole. Set
it down just like this picture.
16) Put the casing/toe piece that you just

made on top of it with the fleece side
up. Its just sitting on top of it like a
hat. =)
17) Pull the cuff through the opening.
18) Pin all around the toe and casing,
centering it on the sole. Sew with
seam allowance.
You are stitching all the way around the sole

dont be confused by the red line there.
The line would just go behind the rest of the
bootie. =)
Here it is sewn! At this point, you could put

an insole on top of it to hide those seams
follow the directions for lining the booties
(starts on page 15) if you want to do that.
19) Or flip it right side out and you are

done!
baby size 0-3 mo (0)
Hidden Elastic Casing
cut 2 of cotton

cut 2 of cotton
baby size 6-9 mo (2.5)

cut 2 of cotton
1 square
Please do not distribute, share, or republish this document. You may refer people to my listing or group to find it. Thanks!
cut 2 of cotton
baby size 12-18 mo (5.5)

cut 2 of cotton
1 square
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
big kid size 8
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
big kid size 9
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
big kid size 10
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
big kid size 11
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
big kid size 12
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
big kid size 13
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
Adult Pattern Size 1
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
cut 2 of cotton
1 square
cut 2 of cotton
1 square

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Modifications for

Maggies Stay-On Booties

Pattern pieces for the modified casing. Page 25

This photo shows you where you need to cut and

1) Cut out 2 casing pieces, 4 toe pieces,

One mirror image set is going to be the

2) Mark the slits on two of the toe

3) Sew buttonholes where you marked.

4) Place a pin where you want your slit

6) Place the toe piece with buttonholes

This is what it looks like from the

9) Fold the casing in half and press.

10) Open it and press the ends in .

11) Fold it back down and press well.

Im so sorry to all the OCD people out there I cut

13) Finish the bottom edge with a zig-zag

14) Get a sole and a toe piece ready.

15) Fold the toe in half to find the center.

If you prefer, you can fold each piece and pin

17) Continue pinning the toe all around

18) Fold the casing in half and center it

You can see a little better in this picture,

Here Im showing you what I mean. =) If you

20) Pin the ends of the casing out of the

21) Sew all around the outside with

23) Place the lining right side down on

24) Youll have to smoosh it a bit

25) Flip the whole thing over so you can

27) and then fill in with more pins as

28) Sew around the outside, leaving an

Here it is all sewn. Im going to put the stitch

30) Pull the shoe right side out.

Here it is poking through

and turned out. It is going to have the

Here it is all closed.

And here is what the shoe looks like.

32) Flip that right side out. =) Now its

34) Feed the elastic into the casing

35) and out the other side

36) and then through the buttonholes

I turned the shoe around in this picture.

38) Now pull the elastic out far enough

39) Tie an overhand knot. Trim off the

40) Suck the elastic back into the casing

You can follow the pattern just as it is, and

2) Turn your bootie inside out.

You can see that I serged this it was a

3) Cut an extra sole layer for the insole.

Put your inside-out bootie down on

4) Smash the cuff and casing over to

There is a LOT of fabric in there. And I will

6) Pin it in a few places just to get the

7) Flip it over and pin all around the

This is just showing you what it looks like on

If this part is confusing, read through how to

9) Clip, clip, clip.

10) Turn it right side out. The bootie

11) Hand stitch the opening closed.

One more note I want to add, now that you

1) Im just showing one shoe here. This

2) Fold the casing in half. Stitch away

4) Feed your elastic into the casing until

5) Finish pulling the elastic through and