Weaving & It's Types

Presented By: Liza Nagpal

Weaving Definition
Weaving is a method of textile production in which
two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced
at right angles to form a fabric or cloth
The longitudinal threads are called the warp(end)
and the horizontal or cross threads are the weft
(pick)or filling. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a
device that holds the warp threads in place while
filling threads are woven through them
The way the warp and filling threads interlace with
each other is called the weave. The majority of
woven products are created with one of three basic
weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill.
Woven cloth can be plain (in one colour or a simple
pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic
designs.
Loom
THE BACKBONE OF WEAVING
A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The
basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads
under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft
threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics
may vary, but the basic function is the same.
The word "loom" is derived from the Old English geloma,
formed from ge-(perfective prefix) and loma, a root of
unknown origin; this meant a utensil, tool, or machine of
any kind. In 1404 it was used to mean a machine to
enable weaving thread into cloth.
By 1838, it had gained the meaning of a machine for
interlacing thread.
 Parts of Loom
1.Warp Beam
The warp beam is a beam that holds the warp,
or vertical threads, on the loom. Depending on the
loom, this can be a simple beam or a more
complex arrangement allowing for easier warping
of the loom.
2 Heddles
Heddles are made of cord or wire, and are
attached to the shaft of the loom. The warp
threads pass through the heddles, separating the
warp threads to allow the weft threads to pass
between them easily.
 Parts of Loom
3 Harnesses
Harness is a rectangular frame to which a series
of wires, called heddles or healds, are attached.
The yarns are passed through the eye holes of the
heddles, which hang vertically from the harnesses.
The more harnesses or shafts a loom has, the more
design possibilities you will have. Most larger
looms have four harnesses, and table looms often
only one; however, looms of up to 16 harnesses are
available.
 Parts of Loom
4 Shuttle
The shuttle is a bobbin which holds the
weft yarns.
The shuttle is passed or thrown back and
forth to create the weft of the fabric.
5 Beater and Reed
The beater of the loom presses the newly
created weft thread against the already
woven fabric using a reed.
This process is called battening.
Process of In the loom, weave processing includes shedding,
picking, battening(beating) and taking-up operations.

Weaving Primary operations

Shedding. In Shedding, first the ends are separated
by raising or lowering heald frames (harness) to form a
clear space where the pick can pass
Shedding is the raising of part of the warp yarn to form
a shed (the vertical space between the raised and
unraised warp yarns), through which the filling yarn,
carried by the shuttle, can be inserted.
 Process of Weaving
Picking
In picking, the weft or pick is passed across
the loom by a shuttle. As the harnesses raise
the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the
shed is created. The filling yarn in inserted through
the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle.

Battening( BEATING).
Beating-up or battening in which the weft is pushed up against the fell of
the cloth by the reed. Between the heddles and the takeup roll, the warp
threads pass through another frame called the reed (which resembles a
comb). After the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the WEFT
yarn, the weaver uses the reed to press (or batten) each filling yarn against
the already woven cloth end (fell).
Secondary Motion of Loom
Taking up and letting off
There are two secondary motions,
because with each weaving operation the
newly constructed fabric must be wound
on a cloth beam. Taking up of the woven
fabric in a regulated manner is called
taking up.
Let off Motion in this the warp is let off
from the warp beam at a regulated speed
to make the filling even and to continue
the weaving.
Classification of Weaves
Fabrics are manufactured in wide varieties
and design. And the different design and
effect is produced on the fabric with the
help for various mechanism which is
helpful to from different weaves and lots of
design which enhances the look of
apparels.
The great variety of weaves found in the
textiles of to-day are modifications of a few
fundamental weaves invented in the
earliest times.
The basic weaves are:
(1) Plain weave.
(2) Twills.
(3) Sateen.
Plain Weave
Most simple and most common type of construction,
Inexpensive to produce, durable, Flat, tight surface is conducive
to printing and other finishes.
The plain weave is the most common, nearly all light weight
goods being thus woven.
In plain weaving, each thread of both warp and filling passes
alternately over and under the threads at right angles This makes
a comparatively open cloth, requiring the smallest amount of
yarn for the surface covered.
This weave is used in nearly all cotton goods, as in muslins,
sheetings, calicoes, ginghams, and thin woolen goods.
Even in the plain weave variety is obtained by having some of
the threads larger than others, either in warp or filling or both,
thus producing stripes and checked effects.
Variations of plain weave are —
Rib weave.
Basket weave.
Twill Weave
After the plain weave the twill is the most common,
being much used for dress goods, suitings, etc., as
well as some of the thicker cottons.
In this weave the intersections of the threads produce
characteristic lines diagonally across the fabric, most
often at an angle of 45°. The twill may be hardly visible
or very pronounced.
Uneven Twill Weave
A twill made by running both warp and filling under
one and over three threads is called a swansdown
twill and the reverse is known as the crow weave.
In these the diagonal twilled effect is much more
marked.
Various twills are often combined with each other and
with plain weave, making a great variety of texture.
Numerous uneven twills are made, two over and three
under, etc.
Satin Weave
Satin refers to the weave of a fabric rather than
the material. It typically has a glossy surface and
a dull back, one of three fundamental types of
textile weaves along with plain weave and twill.
The satin weave is characterized by four or more
fill or weft yarns floating over a warp yarn, four
warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn.
Floats are missed interfacings, for example
where the warp yarn lies on top of the weft in a
warp-faced satin.
These floats explain the high luster and even
sheen, as unlike in other weaves, the light
reflecting is not scattered as much by the fibres.
Satin is usually a warp-faced weaving technique
in which warp yarns are "floated" over weft yarns,
although there are also weft-faced satins.
 Fancy Weaves
Fancy weaves are ornamented weaves meant for
making decorative fabrics.
Fancy weaves have an appearance distinctly different
from basic, woven fabrics.
However, the construction of fancy weaves is merely a
variation of basic
weave methods.
Fancy weaves have patterns that are an integral part
of the construction of the fabric.
They are created by adding extra warp or weft yarns
to the fabric
structure and/or by using special looms, which add to
the uniqueness and costliness of the fabric.
As a result, most fancy weaves are designed for
specific applications.
Types of fancy weaves are: 1 dobby weave 2. Jacquard
weave. 3. leno weave.4. pile weave. 5 extra warp and
weft figuring. 6 double cloth weave. 7. crepe weave
Dobby Weave
Dobby weaves have small, but intricate designs created using a
dobby attachment to the loom. This attachment allows fabrics to
be created with an all over pattern that is often geometric in style.
Dobby weave is a patterned fabric with small patterns and the
designs are made within 24-30 shedding. Dobby Weave
produces an all over figured fabrics such as bird's eye,( small
diamonds with a dot at the center, or smaller geometric patterns),
madras cotton shirting having figures made in contrast colour on
plain coloured background, pique-medium or heavy weight fabric
The construction of the Dobby weave is very complex and the
design is repeated frequently.
Dobby weave is created on dobby machines. The machine
selectively raises some warp threads and selectively lowers
others with the help of a dobby card called lattice
The standard dobbies are generally flat and relatively fine or
sheer.
Heavyweight dobby fabrics are used as home furnishings and for
heavy apparel.
Jacquard weave
Jacquard fabrics have complex patterns. These
fabrics are made on the jacquard loom.
Jacquard fabrics have floats and luster. They are
more stable and stretchy than the fabrics made
through basic weaves.
The Jacquard Loom was invented by Joseph
Jacquard in 1801. This was a mechanical loom and
was controlled by punchcards having punched
holes.
Many rows of holes were punched on each card.
jacquard loom works on the basis of punched cards
strung together.
Every hole in the card corresponds to a "Bolus"
hook. This hook can either be up or down raising or
lowering the harness.
Thank You