Insert Front Cover Question and Answers - The Tank

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Question and Answers The Tank

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Table of Contents
Aquarium Dictionary ........................................................................................................ 1
The 12 Point Guide to the Ultimate Aquarium ................................................................. 8
Questions and Answers for Australia Aquarium Magazine 2008 ................................... 17
Commonly Overlooked Reef Aquarium Problems ......................................................... 18
The Aquarium ................................................................................................................ 21
5 Step Ladder to Aquarium Success ............................................................................. 27
Top 13 Aquarium Tips ................................................................................................... 29
Survive or Thrive ........................................................................................................... 31
Too Much or Not Enough? ............................................................................................ 35
Protein Skimmers .......................................................................................................... 37
Top 9 Aquarium Myths - Busted! ................................................................................... 39
Safely Moving an Aquarium?......................................................................................... 43
Aquarium Furniture ........................................................................................................ 45
Heaters .......................................................................................................................... 46
Thermometers ............................................................................................................... 47
CO2 Injection Systems .................................................................................................. 48
Water Pumps................................................................................................................. 49
Air Pumps ...................................................................................................................... 50
Plumbing ....................................................................................................................... 51
Wave Makers ................................................................................................................ 52
Tide Simulators ............................................................................................................. 53
Chillers .......................................................................................................................... 54
Probes ........................................................................................................................... 55
Dosing Systems ............................................................................................................ 56
Lighting .......................................................................................................................... 57
Mechanical Filtration ..................................................................................................... 62
Surface Skimming ......................................................................................................... 63
Overflow Chambers ....................................................................................................... 64
Pre-Filters ...................................................................................................................... 65
Internal Canister Filters ................................................................................................. 66
Reverse Osmosis .......................................................................................................... 67
Ozone ............................................................................................................................ 68
What to do When your Filter Has Been Off? ................................................................. 70
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Polyfilter......................................................................................................................... 71
UV Sterilizers................................................................................................................. 72
Settling Filters................................................................................................................ 73
Under-Gravel Filters in Saltwater .................................................................................. 74
External Canister Filters ................................................................................................ 76
Algae Bed Filters ........................................................................................................... 78
Denitrification Filters ...................................................................................................... 81
Natural Filtration ............................................................................................................ 82
The Jaubert System ...................................................................................................... 84
Live Sand ...................................................................................................................... 86
Should I have Gravel in the Bottom of my Pond? .......................................................... 88
Activated Carbon ........................................................................................................... 89
Sponges or Resins ........................................................................................................ 91
Questions on Protein Skimmers .................................................................................... 92
Protein Skimmers, Useful or Harmful? .......................................................................... 96
Does Tap Water Have a Place in Aquariums? .............................................................. 98
Cleaning ...................................................................................................................... 100
Cleaning Algae for Good! ............................................................................................ 104
Water Clarity................................................................................................................ 105
Odours ........................................................................................................................ 107
Biological Filtration ...................................................................................................... 108
Ensure Adequate Water Flow and Surface Agitation .................................................. 110
Quarantine Tank .......................................................................................................... 111
Nano Reef Aquariums ................................................................................................. 112
Ultimate Aquacare Webisodes .................................................................................... 113
Paul Talbot`s Marine Aquarium Principles .................................................................. 116
Paul Talbots Pond Principles ...................................................................................... 117
12 Steps to Turn your Pool into a Pond! ...................................................................... 118
Pond Hints ................................................................................................................... 120
Log Books ................................................................................................................... 121
Photography ................................................................................................................ 122
Holiday Tips for your Aquarium! .................................................................................. 123
7 Tips to Lower the Maintenance of your Aquarium! ................................................... 125
Tropical Aquarium Hints .............................................................................................. 127
Reef Aquarium Hints ................................................................................................... 129
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Red Sea Reef Calandar example ................................................................................ 131
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AQUARIUM DICTIONARY
Ahermatypic- corals are corals that dont contain zooxanthellae.
Adsorbate- is the liquid collected by the skimmer. Acontia- poisonous
tentacles able to extend and sting neighbouring corals. Acrylic- is
sometimes used to build tanks instead of glass because is has less
chance of cracking and is lighter but it is scratched a lot easier. Acclimatization- is
gradually adjusting the fish to a dapt to a new environment. Actinic tube- is a blue
coloured tube with a spectrum that is designed to imitate the light received by the coral.
As the water gets deeper the spectrum fades, blue is the part of the spectrum that is
able to penetrate deepest. So in order to sustain the coral this tube is important. If you
have lighting over 10000k you do not need an actinic because the light is already
powerful enough. Even so it is still advisable to have one.
Activated carbon- is a chemical filter, which pulls waste out of the water. It should be
replaced every month or it can release what it has collected back into the environment
again. Activated carbon has fewer impurities than charcoal. Aerobic-bacteria- are
bacteria with the presents of oxygen. It converts high level waste into low level waste.
Ahermatypic- animals are not photosynthetic. Autotrophic- is capable of photosynthesis.
Albino- lacking pigments, an albino is caused by a genetic mutation. Algae- is a
unicellular plant that has no roots, stems or leaves, they can colour the water green, or
grow on glass or decorations. Algae bed filter- is a filter that uses algae to filter the
water. Alga farm- is a tank that is dedicated to growing algae to feed the fish. Airstone-
is a small rock designed to disperse air, run by an air pump. Amphipods- is a tiny
crustacean often introduced in live rock. They come out at night and are great algae
eaters. Ammonia (NH4/NH3)- is a high level waste that is converted into nitrite by
bacteria. You can think of as it first-degree fish waste (it is expelled from the gills).
Ammonia consists of two chemicals- ammonium hydroxide (NH4) and ammonia gas
(NH3); ammonia gas is extremely toxic. Ammonium hydroxide- is a toxic inorganic
pollutant that is released through the gills of fish as waste. Anaerobic-bacteria- grow
without the presence of oxygen; they are able to break down nitrate and can be
responsible for the accumulation of toxic hydrogen sulfate. Anaerobic-zone- is an
environment that has no oxygen. This zone can grow anaerobic-bacteria Anal fin- is the
fin under the fish next to the tail, behind the pelvic fins. Anoxic-zone- consists of low
oxygen (about 1ppm), it is where anoxic bacteria grow. Anoxic bacteria live in the
anoxic zone, they are able to break down nitrate into nitrogen and oxygen. Aiptasia- is a
colonial anemone that can be a real pest in a reef tank. Alkalinity- measure the water`s
ability to avoid rapid drops in pH. Alkalinity takes all buffering elements into account.
Artemia- is brine shrimp. Asexual reproduction- is when an organism contains both male
and female genders and does not need the interaction of another organism in order to
reproduce. Base-rock- is a term used (mainly for salt-water tanks) to describe the rock
at the bottom of the reef. This rock is generally not visible, it basically elevates the live
rock to create a reef look and allow the live rock and corals to be closer to the light. Ball
valves- are used to close the line or control the amount of flow. Barium- is a trace
element that may help coral. Barbel- is a growth on either side of the mouth for locating
food. Bacteria enhancer- is a chemical used to promote the growth of bacteria. This is
very handy for new or well-stocked tanks because it reduces the toxic period. It allows
you to increase stock with reduced risk. Berlin system- is a type of natural system using
protein skimmers created in Berlin by Peter Wilkens. Bleaching- is when corals turn
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white. Budding- is where an organism divides as a way of reproduction. Buffer capacity-

is the ability to stabilize pH; this can be achieved with carbonate and hydrogen
carbonate ions Bio- filter- is an abbreviation for biological filtration. Biological filtration-
uses living organisms e.g. bacteria to filter the water. Bio-balls- are a filter medium
designed to grow bacteria on it. Brine- is highly salty water. Bio-wheel- capacitates
nitrifying bacteria that are able to break down high level waste. The reason why they are
effective is that the bacteria on the wheel is exposed to the waste in the water that flows
through it, and that bacteria is then exposed to the air as the wheel spins around. The
benefit of this is the oxygen makes the bacteria more powerful. Bivalve- means two
valves. Brackish water- is found at the mouth of a river where salt and freshwater
meets. A standard brackish tank is made up using about 10% saltwater. Calcareous-
means it contains calcium. Colour temperature- is a colour in relationship to its
temperature. Carbonate hardness (KH)- is one of the alkaline reserves (the waters
capacity to neutralize acid). See alkalinity. Calcium- is the building block of coral. It is
advisable to monitor calcium levels in reef tanks. Calcification- is the ability to use
calcium from the water. Calcareous algae- is considered to be good algae. Carbon- see
Activated Carbon. Charcoal- is a chemical filter, which should not be used in salt-water
tanks because it is not pure enough. See Activated Carbon. Caudal fin- is the tail of the
fish. Caudal peduncle- is the part of the body that the tail is joining. Conductivity-
measures salinity. The more salt in the water the higher the conductivity will be.
Coralline algae- is a red crusty alga that is beneficial to the tank. Canister filter- is one of
the most popular and versatile filters available. A canister filter is simply a canister filled
with filter medium with a pump on the top. The water siphons into the canister and is
exposed to the water to the filter medium it is then pumped back into the aquarium. The
canister filter generally sits under the tank with only an inlet and an outlet tube from the
tank. Center brace- is a strip of glass that runs across the top if the tank from the front to
the back. It supports the lids and strengthens the tank. Chemical filter- uses chemicals
to aid in the filtration of an aquarium such as sponges and carbon. Colonial anemones-
are anemones that like to live in a group. They can reduplicate quickly and can be
considered a pest if they start to take over the tank and sting your coral. Common
Name- is a simple name used in the trade. Can be different from one place to the next.
Community Fish- is a fish that mixes well in a community tank. (Community fish are
generally thought of as peaceful fish). Community Tank- is a tank of fish that mix with
one another Copper- is dangerous to any invertebrates. This makes it an effective
medication especially against parasitic infection. Check valves- (one way valves) stop
water from being able to flow backwards through airline. Colour rendition index (CFI)-
measures how close the reflected visual colour of an artificial light is to sunlight. The
higher the reading, the better the light. Cured- generally means seeded live rock. Cured
live rock is a benefit to the aquarium, this occurs after the waste from the initial
organisms that died after transport have gone. This is rock that is ready for the tank.
Cured live rock- is a rock that has been is an aquarium long enough to be beneficial to
the tank. Chromaticity- is the colour of the light. Copepod- is a small crustacean that
feeds on debris, they can become over populated if the tank is feed too much. Cirri- is a
natural growth above the eye of some fish. Cynobacteria- is also called blue-green
algae, it is related to bacteria. Cycled- is a term used for the completion of the nitrogen
cycle. Cryptocaryon- is a parasite (white spot). Daphnia- is a freshwater flea that can be
used as a food. Dorsal fin- is the fin or fins on top of the fish. Dropsy- is a disease that
results in a bloated belly and protruding scales. Dosing pumps- add a particular amount
of liquid every set amount of time e.g. trace elements. Dead spots- in the back corner of
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a reef you often get dead spots due to stagnant water, this is mainly under the substrate
or between the piles of rock. Detritus- is the visible build up of organic waste. Disease-
means a state of ill or bad health, sick. De-ionization- can be used to purify the fresh
water for top ups or before the salt mix is added. Denitrification- is the process by which
nitrate is broken down. The process of denitrification results in nitrous oxide then the
release of nitrogen gas. Diatoms- are unicellular algae that feed mainly on silicates.
Diatom filter- uses diatom powder and a fine mess to sift out microscopic particles and
impurities. Dinoflagellates- are single celled microorganisms that are bad news. Drip
tray- is a perspex tray used to distribute water. The tray is mounted flat and water is
poured on top. Dominion- the territory ruled by a individual or group. Dominant- the
dominant fish is the fish that is the boss of a group of fish. Eye spot- A name for a dot
near the tail of a fish that is to trick predators into thinking it is an eye. Efimech- is the
noodles used in the bottom of canister filters. They are effective because they have a
smaller surface area and dont clog up too quick. Eutrophic- means rich in nutrients.
Family- is a related group of genus. Fertilizers- only needs to be used if you are trying to
grow lots of algae in the tank. Fifty/ fifty light tube- is one single light tube that is half full
spectrum and half-actinic. Fry- is a young fish. Fungus- is a cotton wool-like growth.
Float switches- may be installed to switch the pump on or off in regards to the water
level. They are useful because if the pump is allowed to run dry and burn out, this will
save your pump. Filamentous algae- is a strand algae that looks like hair. Fish only
tank- is a tank designed to keep saltwater fish with no invertebrates. A reason why you
must make a clear cut decision to have or not to have inverts is because a tank that has
no inverts can be run containing copper in the water which will help fight disease. Flux-
is the intensity of the light. Flush system- is a high surge of water that flush detritus out
of the tank. Fluidize bed filter- is an extremely powerful biological filter that works by
passing water through a bed of sand in a cylinder. Foam fractionator- is another name
for a protein skimmer. Filter feeders- sifts nutrients out of the water. Filter medium- is a
substance used in the filter it can be mechanical, biological or chemical. Fin rot- is a
fungal or bacteria deterioration of the fins. Freshwater dip- is a method of treating
saltwater fish that are sick. The idea is to use the freshwater to kill the problem e.g.
parasite and hope the fish itself is strong enough to survive the whole ordeal. Gang
valve- is a devise that enables you to run several airlines off one tube with individual
control taps. Genus- is a scientific term internationally recognized for a group of fish.
The genus can be regarded as like a persons surname (It is displayed first with fish).
Gills- are used to achieve respiration, they absorb oxygen. Gill flukes- is a parasite that
attacks the gills; the fish will stress and breathe rapidly. Hard coral- has a hard skeleton.
It is another name for a stony coral. Head height- is refereed to how high and often at
what speed a pump is able to pump water. Heater- is to simply heat the tank water.
Head- or head height is referred to how high up the water has to or can pump.
Hierarchy- The order of dominance. High level waste- (e.g Protein, amino acid,
ammonia)have not been broken down. How many parts NH4 or NH3 you get depends
on the pH, temperature and oxygen levels present. calibrated for a temperature of 25C,
so ensure that your water is of that temperature if you are to receive an accurate
temperature. Hose clamps- is for securing flexible hose to a ridged pipe. It is important
that they are used whenever pressure is involved. Hydrometer- is used to measure the
salinity or specific gravity (salt level) of the water. Hydrogen peroxide- will temporarily
raise the dissolved oxygen content of the water; it can be handy to maintain oxygen
levels to keep the fish alive if the power has been cut. Thiel recommends 15 drops of a
3% solution per gallon up to 3 time an hour. HQL- is an abbreviation for a mercury
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vapour lamp. HQI- is an abbreviation for halogen quartz iodine a metal halide lamp.
Hermatypic- corals are corals that contain zooxanthellae. Hetrerotrophic- is incapable of
photosynthesis. Hetrerotrophic Bacteria- carries out mineralisation (consuming the
carbon). Hood- is a frame that surround the top of the tank, which contains the light,
used for decorative reasons. Hydrogen-sulfate- is extremely toxic; it can be caused by
anaerobic-bacteria breaking down sulfate, if the oxygen level is too low. It smells like
rotten egg gas. H.O. tube- is a high output tube. Hydroxyl ions- sets the equilibrium of
ammonium hydroxide to ammonia gas with in the ammonia level. Hybrid- is a result of
hybridization. Hybridization- is if one variety breeds with another (cross breeding).
Hyper-dominant- is a phase that a fish goes though, often if it is maturing or if it is
settling it to a new tank. Infrared- is light above the visible spectrum red 780 nm. Iodine-
is a trace element used by coral. Irradiate- is to illuminate. Impeller- is the propeller in
the water pump. Inbreeding- is where direct blood relatives (such as brother and sister /
mother and son) breed with each other. Internal canister filter- is basically a powerhead
with a larger prefilter. Invert tank- contains primarily invertebrates. Inorganic phosphate-
A salt of phosphoric acid. Inorganic- (doesnt contain carbon) is a chemical element not
produced by a living organism. Jaubert system- is a method of filtration developed by
Dr. J. Jaubert. Using natural live sand filtration. Kalkwasser- is a saturated chemical
solution of calcium hydroxide or calcium oxide. It is used to increase hardness and add
calcium to the tank. Kelvin- is the spectrum, the higher the number the whiter the colour,
the lower the number the more reds and yellows in the spectrum, the higher the number
the better for corals because the more blue in the spectrum. Higher readings also make
fish look better. Laminar flow- is a consistent flow in one direction. Lateral line- is the
line that runs along each side of the fish; it is used like a sonar system, to detect
obstacles and company. Live Rock- Live rock is rock generally out of the ocean. This
rock is considered alive because it is covered in so many types of microscopic
organisms, crustaceans, algae and bacterias etc. Live rock can spread on to dead rocks
in an aquarium making them alive too. Lux- is the lights ability to penetrate with
intensity deep into the water. Live sand filters- Lumen- is the intensity of the light. Low
level waste- (Nitrate, phosphate) is a good source of food for any photosynthetic life but
it is toxic at higher levels. Try to keep the level of low level waste as low as possible
because it will minimize chemical fluctuation when you do a water change. Low-level
waste can also effect the body slim of fish. This is mainly a problem when you are
introducing new fish to the environment. The body slime of the new fish will take longer
to adjust if there is waste present and increases the chance of getting diseases such as
white-spot. This seems to be particularly a problem with fish that have skin not scales
(such as Tangs and loaches) Lithium- is a trace element that is believed to help coral.
Live sand filter- uses bacteria and micro-organisums that grom in the sand to filter the
water. Lymphocystis- is large fluffy white spots on the body and fins. Marcoalgae-
multicellular algae. Manganese- is an important fertilizer. Maturing fluid- adds or
enhances living bacterial culture to minimize the toxic period associated with a new
tank. Mechanical filter- removes particles out of the water before they start to decay.
Metering pumps- can be used for the slow release of additives e.g. trace elements
because they have a specific output. Metal halide- Very powerful light bulbs.
Mineralisation- is the process by which organic compounds (amino acids) are reduced
to inorganic compounds (ammonia). Micron filter- is a media fine enough to remove
micro particles, including parasites. Micronutrients- is another name for trace elements.
Microalgae- is unicellular algae. Magnetic valves- (Solenoid valves) are set on timers
they allow you have the water flow change from one output to another to achieve
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irregular flow. Minor element- is larger than a trace element. Molybdenum- is a trace
element that is believed to enhance bactera. Molecular absorption sponge- is designed
to remove particular organics from the water. They should be placed in very high water
movement. Mercury vapour lights- arent recommended in reef tanks Monoculture
filters- contains cultures of plants or animals that help filter the water. Mysis- is a shrimp
that can be used as a good source of food (brine shrimp). Nomenclature- is naming for
classification. Nanometer (nm)- is the unit of measuring wavelength. Natural systems- is
totally dependent on biological decomposition for its filtration. Lee Chin Eng first
recognized this method. Most natural systems are run with a protein skimmer so can be
seen as semi-natural systems. Nudibranch- are small sea slugs with feathery gills
visible on their back. Nitrate (NO3)- is a low-level waste (produced by nitrobacter),
which is a good fertilizer of any photosynthetic life such as plants. It can be toxic at high
levels. (NO3 is the total nitrate reading). NO3-N is the total nitrate-nitrogen reading. To
convert NO3-N to NO3 multiply the reading by 4.4. (Nick Darkin) Nitrite (NO2)- is a level
of organic waste that is toxic to the fish inverts. Nitrite is (produced by nitrosomonas) a
temporary stage in the breakdown of organic matter between ammonia and nitrate.
Nitrobacter- is the aerobic bacteria that break nitrite down into nitrate. Nitrogen cycle- is
the breakdown of waste. Bacteria grow with the presence of ammonia and break the
ammonia down into nitrite. The presence of the nitrite provokes another bacteria to grow
that breaks the nitrite into nitrate, which is not as toxic. Nitrosomonas- is the aerobic
bacteria that break ammonia into nitrite. Nitrification- is the process of breaking
ammonia into nitrate, which is carried out by aerobic-bacteria Nitrifying bacteria-
(Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) carries out nitrification; break high level waste in to low
level waste. Nauplii- is baby brine shrimp. Oligotrophic- means not rich in nutrients.
Organic- (contains carbon) Produced by living organisms. Oodinium- (velvet decease) is
a highly contagious single-celled parasite. Overflow chamber- is mounted in the back of
the tank containing a mechanical filter. Oxygen reactor- is to enhance the amount of
dissolved oxygen in the water. Oxidation- is decay, which lowers the oxygen content of
the water. It is the gaining of an oxygen atom. Ozone- consists of 3 oxygen atoms; it is a
powerful oxidant for lowering organic waste in the water, it is often fitted to a protein
skimmer. Ozonizer- creates ozone by exposing oxygen to a high electric tension. It
converts O2 to O3. Ozone reactor- is to inject ozone into. PAR- is photosynthethetically
available radiation. pH- is the acid and alkaline (Base) levels in the water. (If there is
more than seven hydroxide ions the water will be alkaline, if there is more then seven
hydrogen ions the water will be acid) seawater has a pH of about 8.3. Parameters- are
what is referred to the log book readings e.g. the levels of waste, salt or pH. Pelvic fins-
is the two fins under the fish closes to the head. Pectoral fins- are located behind the
gills, one on each side of the fish. Plenum- is often referred to a layer of stagnant water
underneath substrate that is suspended by a plate. See the question how do you set up
a Jaubert system. Prefilter- is a mechanical filter placed before another filter to stop
debris. Photosynthesis- is a complex chemical reaction used to produce energy from
light. Photoperiod- refers to the length of time the aquarium receives light Phosphate
(PO4)- is a low-level waste. Algae are a good indication that phosphate is present.
Phytoplankton- is a unicellular algae that floats in the water. Parasite- is an organism
that benefits at the expense of another. Pectoral fins- is the fins on the side of the fish
Permanganate- will temporarily raise the redox of the tank quickly, which is unsafe for
the fish. It may discolour the water and decorations. It is a dangerous chemical. Pelvic
fins- are the two fins that are next to each other under the fish. Plexiglass- is a brand of
acrylic. Probe- is used to send information about the water to a computer e.g. to a digital
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thermometer or redox meter. Protein skimmer- is a devise that is used to skim high level
waste out of the aquarium. It is the key to any salt-water tank. Power head-is a term
used of an internal water pump. Polyp- a single unit of a coral. Poly filter- is a highly
absorbent filter material that wont release what it has collected even when it becomes
full. Even after it is washed it remains a brown colour. Poly filters should be washed in
R.O. water or distilled water. Post filter- is generally an extra mechanical filter that is
after the main filtration system e.g. an algae bed filter should be run with a post filter to
stop the loose or dead algae getting in to the tank. ppm- is short for parts per million.
Quarantine tank- is a tank set up to observe fish that are new or causing concern.
Quartz halogen light- gets too hot to be recommended to a reef tank. Radiation- is
electromagnetic oscillations. Coral require a certain size wavelength for each of the
oscillations. Red pest- is a name used to describe red slime algae. Refractometer-
measures salinity in ppt. Reef tank- is an aquarium that imitates a coral reef. It generally
contains a mix of fish, live coral and other invertebrates. Refugia- is a term that
describes areas that enable organisms to thrive with out the presence of predators e.g.
a live sand filter or settling filter. Red slime- algae is an ugly type of blue/green algae.
R.O water- is water that has been run though a reverse osmosis unit. Residual ozone-
is the ozone that has found its way into the aquarium water. This level should be 0 and
it is only a problem if you are currently running an ozonizer. There are various test kits
available. Reduction- is the loss of an oxygen atom. Redox- is short for reduction and
oxidation. It is used to measure the water purity. Redox measures the amount of
reduction and oxidation that is going on in the tank. It is used often to test ozone.
Saturation- means as high as possible. Silicates- are often present in tap water. They
can lead to blooms of algae. Sulfates- are often present in tap water. They can lead to
blooms of algae Substrate-The term substrate is what is referred to gravel, shell grit or
coral sand that is commonly used in the bottom of an aquarium. Substrate can also
refer to a biological medium that goes in the filter e.g. Eheims Efisubstrate. Stony coral-
have a hard skeleton, they are responsible for building the reef. Strontium- is an
element present in natural seawater that is believed to help the coral it is a similar
chemical to calcium. Spawning- is the fertilization of eggs. Spectrum- is made up of all
the different wavelengths (colours) in light. Spray bar- is a pipe run along the back of the
tank as a water return with a series of holes drilled into it to evenly distribute water.
Settling filter- is a chamber designed to flow water though allowing debris to settle on a
glass bottom that is easily siphoned. Seeding- is what they call the toxic period after live
rock has been transported. Sodium Vapour light- isnt recommended in reef tanks.
Salinity- is the amount of salt in the water. Sub-dominant- is the fish that is second in
charge. The dominant fish often bashes the sub-dominant fish because it is a direct
treat to the dominance of the dominant fish. Surge- is a back and forward motion.
Surface skimmer- clears the surface of the tank by overflowing water into a mechanical
filter. Salinity- is the total dissolved salts in the water measured in ppt. Specific gravity-
is the density of the water compared to the weight of distilled water; the tank water
should be about 1.023. Sea squirts- look like a blob with two open holes on them, they
are often introduced with live rock. They are not true vertebrates or true invertebrates.
Seeded- means that the working bacteria level has equaled the present waste level.
Sweeper tentacles- are used by corals to physically sting surrounding corals. Swim
bladder- is an organ that the fish use to enable them to maintain a set position in the
water. Soft coral- has eight tentacles per polyp. Species- is a scientific term for a
particular type of fish with in the genus. It can be thought of as like a persons first name
(It is displayed last with fish). Sump- is a reservoir of water below the tank. Strontium- is
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an element similar to calcium present in natural seawater that is believed to help the
coral. Check valves- (one way valves) stop the water from being able to flow
backwards. Solenoid valve- is a magnetic valve. Surface skimmer- feeds the filter from
the surface of the water. Turf algae- looks like lawn grass; it is generally found on live
rock, it is considered to be good algae. Tentacle- elongated flexible organs that are
present in some animals. Temporary hardness- is when you have high pH with low
hardness (buffering capacity). Thermostat- is a part of the heater that tells it to cut off
once the water is at the desired temperature. Thermometer- tells you the temperature of
the water. Turf algae- looks like lawn grass; it is generally found on live rock, it is
considered to be good algae. Trace elements- inorganic substances essential in minute
amounts, to ensure growth and development of most living organisms e.g. Magnesium,
Sodium, Calcium, Potassium, Chlorine, Strontium, Sulfur, Bromine, Fluorine, Boron.
Turbulence- is a swirl of water cause by a clash of currents. Turn over- is the amount of
water flow. Tungsten- is a type of light that produces too much heat and an unbalanced
spectrum. Trickle system- is a method of filtration where water is trickled over the filter
material enabling the bacteria to be more heavily oxygenated. Water changers- refers to
the partial replacement of water. Water chemistry- is the parameters of the aquarium
e.g. pH, salinity, ammonia. Water quality- refers to how close the water chemistry of an
aquarium is to where the fish requires it. Wave maker- creates a back and forth wave
effect in the tank. Wavelength- is the frequency of electromagnetic oscillations. Each
wavelength shows up a different colour. Wet and dry system- is a type of canister filter
that fill up with water exposing the water to the bacteria on the media then it empties
exposing the bacteria to the high oxygen of the air. This enables to bacteria to be more
powerful. Wet and dry sometimes refers to a trickle filter as well. White bait- dead whole
fish used to feed larger ones. Worm-feeder- this is a cone with small holes in it that is
stuck to the glass at water level. The way this works is the worms stick their head out of
the holes and the fish pull out the worms and eat them. This is to prevent worms getting
away, burying themselves in the gravel and possibly dying, which may pollute the tank.
Uncured live rock- is live rock that has never been in an aquarium before. This rock will
often create levels of waste as some of the organisms on it that arent suited to the new
environment die. Under gravel filter- is a type of biological filtration that sits under the
gravel, the water moves through the gravel where the bacteria grows. It can be used by
sucking water through the gravel using uplifts with a powerhead or airstone or by
pushing the water up through the gravel preferably with a canister filter. I rarely suggest
under gravel filters for saltwater tanks. Ultraviolet light- light below the visible spectrum
Violet 380 nm. It will kill anything that it comes in contact with. UV sterilizer- works by
running water past UV-C light, which is extremely harmful to all living tissue. UV-A- is
320-400nm. UV-B- is 280-320nm. UV-C- is an extremely poisonous spectrum (200-
280nm) it does not penetrate the earths atmosphere only a germicidal lamp produces
UV-C light. Vitamins- can be a benefit to a reef tank as long as they are added
sparingly. Variety- (in regards to classification) is a way of recognizing a fish within a
species. It is often named on its appearance or after where it is from. Ventral fin- is
another name for the pelvic fins, the pair of fins under the fish. Ventral- is the underside
of the fish. V.H.O. tube- is a very high output tube. Zooxanthellae- is a symbiotic alga
that lives in the corals and shares in a beneficial relationship with it. Zooplankton- are
tiny animals that many organisms feed on. Zoe anemone- is a colonial anemone
(aiptasia). Sold in a colony as zoe rock.
Page 7
THE 12 POINT GUIDE TO THE ULTIMATE AQUARIUM

1. Filtration
I have found that one of best and most reliable form of
filtration is live rock. In a new tank I also place a lot of
emphasis on an adequate protein skimmer.
A fluidize bed filter is often detrimental to a well set up reef
tank as it lowers the dissolved oxygen level and offers
extreme nitrification, which if you have adequate live rock is
unnecessary and will lead to increased nitrate.
I don`t use UV sterilizers as they kill plankton, are expensive
and unnecessary. If you only introduce fish when the tank has
been running well for at least a month since the last fish was
introduced, you will find that cases of whitespot outbreak are rare. If you have a UV
sterilizer, only turn it on if you have a parasite or for 2-3 weeks after you have
introduced new fish.
I don`t use ozonizers for all the same reasons that I don`t use a UV sterilizer plus the
ozonizer has the risk of residual ozone and it will raise your nitrate level and reduce the
function of the skimmer.
I don`t ever use a trickle filter as all it is capable of doing is oxidizing higher level
organics to a lower level. This is a pointless function as you also don`t want low level
organics. This increases the need for water changes and denitrifying filters. The only
biomedia you need is live rock places in a tank with a 10-14 times an hour water
turnover.
There are now various biomedia`s on the market that are more effective than bioballs
(like Matrix from Seachem) which not only offer high surface area for nitrification but
also harbour denitrifying bacteria inside to complete the biological cycle as with live rock
expelling only a nitrogen gas not nitrate.
The filter should turn the water over no more than twice an hour. Don`t have a pump on
the filter that is too powerful or you will find that half the food you feed your fish is really
just feeding the filter. This will increase contact time with the bacteria.
Clean the pre-filter as regularly as possible, at least once a week. How effective a
mechanical filter is, is determined by how often you clean it. The mechanical media
should be replaced or cleaned under tap water. Remember that the longer the
mechanical filter is not cleaned, the more detritus is able to accumulate on it which will
have the entire volume of the water passed over per hour. It is almost better to have no
filter at all than one that is full of detritus stripping out the oxygen and polluting the
water. A large uncleaned pre-filter will harbour bacteria, which may affect the water
quality once it is finally cleaned.
If you keep large messy fish that will be fed a lot of food it can be worth installing a
canister filter through the bottom of the tank to remove larger detritus. This should be
treated as a mechanical filter. So if you aren`t prepared to clean it out regularly then you
are best off without it.
You may hear about plenum systems, which is four inch thick substrate elevated by a
once inch false door. I have found them to be unnecessary, as they are providing no
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extra benefits to the live rock. If the lower depth level is disturbed they do present a risk
of hydrogen sulfide poisoning as the plenum gets choked with mulm (non-organic
detritus).
2. Population
High water quality is the number one factor of a reef tank. It is
important not to overstock the tank with fish. You should look
to introduce fish to the reef tank that you believe will perform a
desirable function like sifting the substrate, scavenging or
eating algae.
A fish-only tank is commonly overstocked, as fish are the only interesting thing in it. The
beauty of a reef tank is that the corals and invertebrates add so many colours and life
so that far less emphasis has to be placed on the fish. It is high fish stocks that produce
waste, which makes the water quality hard to maintain. The same people that put too
many fish in their tank say it`s too hard to keep coral. If you have less fish and more
coral, the water quality would actually be better and the coral and fish would be easier
to keep.
It is very important never to introduce a fish to the aquarium unless it has run perfectly
for at least a month. Every fish that is introduced to the tank will bring various pathogens
with it. If the fish is happy, the fish`s own immune system employs specific antigens
which react to those pathogens. If the fish is stressed such as when it is transported or if
another fish is picking on it, the immune system shuts down and the pathogen is able to
take hold. After this the pathogen then sends spores out into the tank which after
reproducing will look for a new host to grow on. If you introduce a fish to a new tank the
pathogens will go out looking for a new host. If that fish has settled down okay, it is
unlikely that a fish will get sick from it`s own pathogens. This is because once the
immune system is functioning again the fish will use it`s body slime which contains very
effective anti-parasitic agents to protect itself from pathogens. This body slime is a lot
more effective than any medications we can use.
If you introduce a new fish once the tank has been running perfectly for at least one
month since the last fish, there is little risk that the new fish will get sick. This is because
the pathogen spores die if they can`t find a new host within a limited period of time,
normally around 2-3 weeks. This means by the fourth week when the new fish is added
the risk is minimal.
If you place a new fish in the tank before the 4 week mark, since that last fish was
introduced there is a higher risk that the new fish will get sick. The spores from the last
fish`s pathogens may still be present in the tank and looking for a new host. The new
fish is stressed (therefore with no immune system) and it is unlikely to contain the
natural antigens to the particular pathogen, so is highly likely to get sick.
Fish that are already present for at least a month in a stress-free aquarium are very
unlikely to get sick from the pathogens of a new fish under normal circumstances. An
established fish will have a strong immune system, which means that anti-parasitic body
slime will be in full operation protecting the fish.
It is important to avoid aggression in your tank as the fish that is being harassed will
become stressed and therefore it is a lot more likely to get sick. Be careful of what I call
the Damsel trap. This is where a particular fish, commonly a Damsel, is introduced into
the aquarium early. This fish becomes established and gets territorial and boldly or
Page 9
secretly harasses any new fish that are introduced. This harassment may not directly kill
the fish but it will ensure that stress levels will remain high therefore the immune system
isn`t able to function correctly, increasing the risk of the fish becoming sick.
There are many rules to introducing fish. One rule is that any groups of fish you want
such as Tangs or Angels should be introduced on the same day. This allows them equal
chance to gain territory and settle down. Fish that look similar are more likely to see
each other as a threat, this will encourage harassment, unless they are a peaceful
schooling fish.
3. Feeding
The emphasis here is variety. Try to have at least 7 to 10
different types of food at any one time, so you can vary the
food every day. Ensure that you know what the natural diet of
the fish you keep and include this in the feedings. Know the
do`s and don`ts of the fish you keep eg. no bloodworms or
mammalian products. Try to decide the diet you will be
feeding before you get the fish, so you avoid having a tank
full of predators eating spirulina.
Some fish are herbivorous an therefore have very long digestive systems. These fish
should be fed green foodstuffs, like spirulina and nori. Other fish are predators therefore
they have very short digestive systems and should be fed easily digested high protein
foods such as bloodworms and whole fish.
Never feed any fish any product of a mammal, yes this also means heart! Never feed
too much bloodworm to any fish and not at all to herbivores, especially Tangs, as it
makes them grow big and aggressive. If there is a good covering of algae in a herbivore
tank, introduced foods need only be light.
It is most important not to overfeed the tank. It is surprising how little food the fish in a
reef tank need to survive. Most of the fish placed in a reef tank are scavengers so only a
small amount of food is needed. A tiny feed once a day is all you need. Try to feed as
little as possible, only if the fish start to look thin should you increase the amount of
food. If the fish have a healthy looking belly then they are fine. Never succumb to their
attempts to make you think they are starving or you will kill them. The aim of a reef tank
is to maintain fish, not to see how fast you can make them grow.
It is very easy to make your frozen foods by finely dicing prawn and fresh fish (sprinkled
with the content of a multivitamin capsule) and mixing it up with a selection of other
foods like plankton, brineshrimp, bloodworms, krill, spirulina, nori, even flakes, pellets of
granulated foods. You can vary what you add depending on the fish that you keep. This
food can be mixed up and laid flat in sandwich bags. Then you get a ruler and indent
rows horizontally from each side to form squares that allow the food to be easily broken
off once frozen.
You should not feed any terrestrial plants as they fish are nearly unable to process
nutrients out of them, though they love to eat it, it just comes out the other side,
increasing your phosphate and nitrate level.
The highest quality food I have every used is a granulated food called Spectrum. It
produces little waste and is an excellent colour enhancer that can be fed to any type of
fish.
Page 10
4. Circulation
Water circulation, if utilised properly, can be a major tool to
keeping water quality and dissolved oxygen levels high. The
main place where detritus building up in a tank is under the
rocks on the side the water current is coming from. The only
time the detritus will build up on bare substrate is if there is
inadequate current in the water to wash it away or if the gravel
size is too big, allowing the food to fall into the substrate, not
just land on it.
The best way I have found to minimise the amount of detritus building up under the
rocks is to change the direction that the water is coming from. Have a standard flow that
returns from the filter aiming from the back to the front glass so the current circles from
back to front. Place a very high output powerhead (which will overcompensate for the
filter return) aiming in a clockwise direction set on a standard power timer. Place a
second very high output powerhead aiming in an anti clockwise direction set on a
standard power timer. Stagger the timing of the other powerheads so just one is on for
15 minutes, then just the other one is on for 15 minutes, then they are both off for 15
minutes, then they are both on for 15 minutes, then it all starts again. (Meanwhile the
filter is on permanently.)
The detritus collects under one side of the rocks while the water is going clockwise, then
it is swept out while the water is going anticlockwise and changes again while the water
circulating from back to front. This increases the chance of detritus getting picked up by
the filter instead of being stuck beneath a rock at the back of the tank. You will find that
this water action will dramatically lower the amount of detritus accumulation. This will
result in higher water quality, higher dissolved oxygen levels, more stable pH, and lower
nitrate and phosphate levels. The pumps should be placed near the top of the tank
because they are easier to service and they won`t blow away the substrate. The
powerheads MUST provide a lot of surface agitation.
You will also find that the strong currents will visibly stimulate most fish. Another note
that I find is that the fish seem to be more active and less aggressive while the pumps
are on compared to when they are off.
If it is a big tank it can be even better if you can have a third pump aimed at the front of
the tank one a different timer again. It is true that the on/off motion may reduce the life
of the pumps, thought I have never found this to be much of a problem. The pumps
have no head height and seem to last as long as one powering a sump. The main thing
is that the impeller shaft and the rubbers at the end of the impeller shaft may need to be
replaced more regularly. If you place a pump with a head height on a regular on/off
situation, you may find the pump burn out quicker. I also find that this on/off motion
doesn`t seem to allow the pumps to get as hot as they do when they are running 24
hours a day. This way they have time to cool down, contributing less to the water
temperature, which can be a factor in summer.
A key reason for this action is that in the wild a coral experiences strong wave action
which allows the zooxanthellae on both sides of the tentacle to photosynthesise. This
also minimises the build up of detritus amongst the coral tentacles.
In order to imitate the intensity of the current experienced on a coral reef that is exposed
to the fury of the open ocean, you must ensure the total water circulation is between 10-
Page 11
14 times per hour. When you first place this much flow in a reef tank you may feel it is
too much. Allow time for the corals to adapt and you will soon see the benefits of this
action. The idea is not to aim the flow straight at a piece that can`t take it.
5. Elevation
Elevation is a very important aspect of a reef aquarium. It
allows the corals to be closer to the light and makes the tank
look more impressive. I have seen too many tanks that look
barren because there is just a cluster of rocks sitting on the
substrate.
Typically if you wish yo create a reef type setting full of rocks
you must be prepared to lose up to a quarter of your water volume due to rock
displacement. Another problem with filling your tank up with rocks is that all the detritus
that accumulates through the back of the tank where it can`t be accessed. So not only
do you lose a lot of the water volume to the rocks but you also get a lot more detritus
accumulating in that smaller water volume. The larger the amount of detritus per water
volume, the lower the dissolved oxygen level and redox potential.
You will find that over time all of the detritus starts to build up in dead spots out of sight
in the back of the tank. In many cases it forms anaerobic zones among the mulm which
harbour bacteria that discharge hydrogen sulfide (a toxic acidic gas). This gas either
slowly leeches out into the tank (lowering alkalinity and weakening the coral and fish
immune system) or in the case of the tank being disturbed, like if you take it down to
remove a fish, the gas can be expelled all at once. If this occurs, it can kill the dish,
making then look like they are short of oxygen or being burnt by something. The higher
the water flow, the less effect the dead spot has.
You want to minimise how often you have to take down a reef tank. Any redecoration
places a huge stress on an established reef. With time corals and coralline algae will
grow from one rock across to another, forming once rock. Once the fish have matured
and the territories are established (while the fish were young) the fish will often have to
fight over new territories.
I have found a way of reducing the amount of detritus accumulation and rock
displacement by making up glass shelves. The shelves elevate the rocks so the tank
can appear full of rock, but really the only rocks you have are the rocks you can see.
Only a small number of rocks have any contact with the substrate so less detritus will
accumulate under them. This also means that the tank will have a larger water volume
because less will be taken up with rocks.
In a tank without shelves the rocks tend to be mounted against the back wall and
sloping steeply down towards the front. In this case, the coral at the back may receive
good light though any corals places in front of that will have to be set considerably lower
to avoid shading from the coral behind it. With the shelves, the coral in front can still
have a significantly elevated position.
When a fish dies at the back out of sight you often don`t know about it until other fish
start to get sick from the pollutants caused by the decaying fish. With shelves, the whole
underside of the tank is open so the dead fish is easily located and accessed instead of
having to pull the whole tank down to remove a half-decayed fish in the back corner of
the tank.
Page 12
Without the shelves, you need to spend more on rocks to make the tank look good. With
the shelves, the rocks don`t have to be at all fancy because it is the way that you mound
them together that creates the interest. The aim is simply to cover up the shelves. If a
small section of the shelf is left uncovered don`t worry because algae will quickly form
on it and it will blend in.
Many pests such as Mantis Shrimp live in live rock. Another advantage of shelves is
that the pest is easily located because the only rocks you have are rocks you can see.
With shelves, you are able to reach in and grab out the rock containing the pest with
less fear of the whole reef falling down, as the shelves are your support structure.
You will find that the shelves will allow better water circulation throughout the back of
the reef, and less nooks and crannies where detritus can accumulate. This will once
again result in higher water quality, higher dissolved oxygen levels, more stable pH, and
lower Nitrate and Phosphate levels. I have used and sold the shelf method for years in
Australia, and only recently have there been any advertisements in commercial
American aquarium magazines.
Never make the shelves too big, as they will look unnatural.
Never select a tank that is higher than it is wide. Aim for a square-sided tank, not only
will it be easier to decorate, it will maintain a higher dissolved oxygen level and redox
potential.
6. Substrate
Substrate should be as thin as possible to minimise the
amount of detritus that can be caught in it. If the layer is too
think, anaerobic zones may form. Always use fine coral sand.
You may use bare bottom tanks though substrate gives a
much more pleasing look and harbours a wealth of micro-
organisms that are advantageous to the system.
You shouldn`t use too large a substrate like shell or grit as bigger pieces of detritus are
able to fall into the substrate as opposed to just landing on it. Larger substrates are very
hard to clean.
Never decrease water circulation because the substrate gets blown away in one
section. Don`t be too concerned if some of the glass remains bare as coralline algae will
soon grow there and create a natural look.
Aim to keep Sand Gobies that will constantly dig in the sand. If you don`t have them the
substrate must be stirred regularly. Don`t be upset if the sand keeps going brown in a
new tank, as this is just the growth of diatom algae as a result of the presence of silicate
in the water. This will ease with time as your coral population increases.
Page 13
7. Background
It is important to have a background on the tank as it makes
the fish feel more secure than having an open back which
makes them feel more vulnerable. It is important that the fish
have dark refuges that they can dart into, allowing them to feel
safe and lowering their stress levels.
There are a variety of backgrounds available which can look
good. If you run a reef tank, make sure you have a natural looking reef background. You
can also choose to paint the back before the tank is set up, most commonly blue or
black.
The best backgrounds that I have seen are the synthetic internal style. Be sure to add
this to the tank before it is set up as it needs to be stuck in with araldite or PVC glue,
making sure that there are no gaps that the fish can swim in and become trapped.
8. Lighting
The first thing to consider is which lights make the coral look
best. The core reason for a reef aquarium is for it to look
good. You will find that the lights which best emphasise the
colour of the coral will often grow it best as well. No matter
what light you offer, it will suit some coral and not others.
Coral has an amazing ability to adapt to available light
sources. I have found the best spectral peak to emphasise is
firstly blue then red, this is because these are the main colours used in chlorophyll A
and B (which are the most important pigments). Some people may try to tell you that the
red spectrum will encourage microalgae! This is true, as microalgae is what
zooanthellae is. As long as the conditions are favourable for the coral and not for the
algae (eg. high calcium and hardness and low phosphate and nitrate), the coral should
be able to outcompete the algae.
Over an 18-inch deep tank you may get away with an actinic at the front and a red tube
(Biolux) at the back, though on a 24-inch deep tank I will put a minimum of 4 tubes. I
arrange an actinic at the front, then a red tube (Biolux), then a high intensity full
spectrum tube, then another actinic at the back. I have found this combination has given
the best overall results, and allows the coral to look and stay better for longer.
The better your lighting, the more trace elements you must offer.
Don`t use metal halides unless you are prepared to get a chiller. Most metal halides
supply far too much yellow and green in the spectrum. If you have too much yellow or
green in the spectrum you may find that all the coral that you introduce will become a
uniform brown with time. Never use standard industrial lighting as it is too strong in the
yellow spectrum.
To allow consistent photoperiods, make sure that all the lights are on timers.
You must remember that in nature, the sun rises and it sets, it does not simply turn on
and off. To imitate this is is easy to stager the times that the lights come on and go off. If
possible have the actinics on, then 1 hour later the red comes on, then 1 hour later the
full spectrum. 8 hours after that the full spectrum goes off, then 1 hour later the red and
1 hour later the actinics. At times one ballast may run two tubes in this case having
Page 14
the actinics on for a total of 12 hours a day and the others for 10 hours. This allows the
light to fade in and fade out.
Never allow a reef tank to be run with the lighting ballast over the top of the tank or you
will find that the heat produced will contribute greatly to raising the temperature to
unacceptable levels in summer. You must ensure that all lights for a reef tank have a
remote ballast. This will allow you to place the bulk of the heat away from the tank,
commonly attached to the back leg of the cabinet.
9. Water Changes
Many people place too much emphasis on water changes
and not enough on general aquarium maintenance (like the
phosphate and calcium level).
The amount of water changes required for a reef tank is
relative to the amount of fish you house in it. A tank stocked
heavily with fish should get a 10% water change per week,
while a low stocked tank may only need 10% a month. Don`t
conduct large water changes on an irregular basis and never
change more than 25% at a time.
Ensure that the water you add to a reef tank is of the highest quality practical. It is
advisable to periodically test the water of your water change water an add the results to
your logbook. If you experience algae blooms after water changes, this means you are
introducing phosphate and silicate in with your new water.
Regular water changes don`t eliminate the need to add trace elements.
Top-up water is not included as a water change.
10. Salts and Trace Elements
The addition of trace elements is extremely important to the
health of corals. Many trace elements precipitate after a
couple of days so they must be replaced regularly.
I have tried many trace elements on the maker and have
found Seachem`s Reef Plus (added twice a week), Reef
Builder (added once a week or to increase alkalinity) and
Reef Advantage (added once a week or to increase calcium)
to be the best.
If you keep corals that are susceptible to bacterial infection such as Goniopora and
Alveopora, it is worth adding Seachem`s extra Iodine solution.
Page 15
11. Log Book

One very useful tool which people rarely use is a logbook. In the busy
schedule of working lives, it is hard to remember when you last did
what. You can think you did a water change last week, but it wasn`t
really last week or the week before that. A logbook is an
accumulation of information that allows you to determine the cause of
any problems in the tank. It can tell you when you last did what and
allows you to check up on yourself. Include any tests that you wish to
do plus any observations and comments. In the observation column write down
anything that you see that is noteworthy eg. who is chasing whom. In the comment
column write anything that you do eg. water changes or add new fish.
12. Photos
It is well worth getting competent at taking photos of our tank. I
encourage you to build a whole photo album of your fish. I
guarantee you will love looking at you past friends once they
have been and gone. Photos allow you to see which fish are
growing and colouring well. Place the date next to the photo so
you can compare notes with the logbook reading at the time. This
will enable you to conclude which variables eg. foods or
supplements make your fish or corals look the best by comparing
it with past photos.
Experiment with different photo techniques to find what works for you. If you use a flash,
take the shot on a 45 degree angle so the flash won`t reflect back into the camera lens.
Page 16
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS FOR AUSTRALIA AQUARIUM

MAGAZINE 2008
I have been keeping fish for many years and it seems that in the last few
months I have had several fish dying in my tropical tank. My water seems
ok with correct pH, no ammonia or nitrite, its not overpopulated and I do
weekly water changes and have a big filter but they are still dying. Many
of them look totally ok then they are dead the next day. What can I do?
Brendan Jarvis This problem is becoming very common, I get people
asking me this all the time. This will just be because your kH level is zero.
It is very important to increase the kH every time you add new water to any fresh water
aquarium. Carbonate (kH) is an essential element to all biological life and you will
continue to have one problem after another until you fix it. To increase the kH simply
add a buffer morning and night till your kH level is at least 80ppm. This will ensure your
fish live a long and happy life. Good luck and enjoy. Paul Talbot I was worried how long
my tank could last without power? Russell Frank James Sullivan That will depend on
how many fish you have and how big they are. It is a very good idea to have a battery-
operated air pump on hand just in case if this ever happens as lack of oxygen is the
main problem when power is out. The more fish you have and the larger they are, the
more oxygen they need. Most heavily populated tanks will last about 6 hours but can
last several days with a battery-powered air pump. Dont feed the fish if the power is out
and introduce a double dose of water ager every few hours if possible. Large animals
like sharks consume massive amounts of oxygen so having a back-up plan is very
important for them. Good luck and enjoy. Paul Talbot I keep getting algae in my Marine
tank and no matter what I do it keeps growing. What can I do now I have tried
everything? Joel Davis Solving algae problems is very simple. Make sure your
phosphate level is zero using a phosphate removing sponge and 3 weeks after it is zero
the algae will start to die. Keep it at zero and about 3 weeks after that it will be gone. It
is never more complicated then that as algae needs phosphate to live. Good luck and
enjoy. Paul Talbot I have a heavily populated Marine tank with all the best equipment
including a UV sterilizer but I keep getting White Spot on my fish and they keep dying. I
only buy a couple of fish a week from good shops and it is a very big tank with perfect
water quality. How can I stop this? Wayne Trinder It is important to ensure that your
aquarium is running perfectly for one month before you ever introduce new fish to your
tank. When the aquarium is running well for a month, it will be stable and all your fish
will have good immune systems. When the new fish are introduced their immune
system is low due to the stress of the move. While the immune system is low the fish
have an imbalance of pathogens versus antigens therefore there is a high risk of
infestation of White Spot disease. When you allow that tank to run perfectly for a month
then the dinoflagelate pathogens that infect the fish with White Spot are mostly gone
and the risk of contracting the disease is low. Also ensure that your salt level is low
(1.020) when you introduce new fish as it eases osmotic stress which also helps to
reduce White Spot.
Page 17
COMMONLY OVERLOOKED REEF AQUARIUM PROBLEMS

So often I go to visit struggling reef aquariums and am faced
with the same simple problems, such and incorrect
positioning, inadequate supplements and incorrect water
parameters. It is important to understand the position that a
particular coral grows in the wild. Corals grow to maximize the
amount of light they are able to collect. I will often go to peoples house to find their
corals are for the most part all facing forward, when they should be facing up so the
beautiful colours of the coral can be enjoyed by the aquarist from the front. The reality of
this is that the coral is not likely to survive for an extended period of time. In the wild the
light would have come from directly over the top of it, whereas now the light may be
coming from one side. When this is the case, you will see the polyps on the far side
start to recede and die with time, often causing a bacterial infection, which may claim
the remainder of the coral. When positioning a coral, remember that the face of the
coral is naturally meant to be facing up, so it pays to have an amount of live rock built
up towards the back allowing you to position the corals on a 45 degree angle. The most
important consideration is to ensure that the whole surface of the coral is being exposed
to the light; the second consideration is trying to position it to allow it to be enjoyed from
the front. Due to this reason people dont tend to position their reef aquarium too high
on a stand as viewing the tank from a lower position will always display the corals to
their best advantage. A coral must be positioned according to its requirement for light
and waterflow. Corals with higher demands for light and flow should be placed at the top
of the aquarium. Corals with lower demands can be placed deeper in the aquarium.
Knowing if a new species you wish to keep is a shallow, medium or deep water species
to start with is a very good idea. Aim to position the coral according to your
understanding of its light demands then watch how it reacts. Determining the corals
water flow requirements is somewhat easier. Assuming you have at least 14 times per
hour water flow and you see the coral struggling to open with the force of the flow then
you can presume it is too strong so simply move the coral away from the pump outlet.
Alternatively, if you see mucus gathering over the coral which is not being swept away
and the coral is not waving nicely when it is extended then you may decide that it is not
in enough flow. If this is the case simply move it towards a pump outlet. You must be
watching all the time for corals stinging each other. Not only must their be a gap
between each coral when they are fully extended, you must also be aware of sweeper
tentacles which will appear at night full of stinging cells trying to suppress their
competition. Be careful which coral is upstream to the next and always try to position
the more aggressive species downstream. An aggressive coral upstream to a peaceful
one is a major risk but it is possible to exchange their positions and therefore keep the
weaker animal out of harms way. It is worth viewing your aquarium at night and pay
attention to the sweeper tentacles and the effect they may have on their neighbours
over time. Understanding how to group corals can be very handy because some corals
will sting each other while others will not. Mostly corals of the same genus are safe to
put together. These animals are safely grouped and can create an amazing feature.
Having one area for soft corals, one for stony corals and another for small polyp corals
will add to the dynamics of the tank and is an excellent idea. No tank can grow all
species all the time because corals are always at war with each other using chemicals
and shadowing to dominate others. Not only do the corals physically sting each other
but they also release chemicals into the water which will affect other coral. I have found
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that aquariums that have a lot of one particular coral thriving are not able to grow
various other types. These observations should be noted because if you repeatedly try
a species and it just doesnt seem to work even though in the past it has thrived in that
same condition, it could well be the chemical war. Water changes, protein skimming and
chemical media such as activated carbon like Biochem-Zorb will help lessen the effects
of coral chemical wars. Corals in aquariums I visit often suffer from bacterial infections.
These infections appear as a milky haze on the animal. This is mostly caused by low
immune systems, low waterflow, inadequate vitamins and trace elements or harassment
from fish or other corals. Firstly ascertain the cause of the infection, eliminate that
problem then treat the coral ASAP. Firstly, remove the coral and brush off the infection
and give it a 10 minute freshwater bath containing an iodide solution. If the infection
continues despite several attempts, cut off the affected area leaving only healthy tissue.
This is harmless to the animal and may well save its life. Ensure that your iodide level is
maintained at 0.06ppm, especially if you are experiencing bacterial infections as iodide
will help to control these and increase the immune system of the coral. Sedimentation is
mostly overlooked by aquarists. This is particularly a problem with very porous species
of coral. This is easy to find which species suffer from sedimentation by simply waving
your hand over it or picking up the specimen and shaking it in the water. Surprisingly, a
shower of sediment will often fall out of the structure of the animal. This sediment is a
problem because it quickly becomes anaerobic, slowly leaking hydrogen sulfide gas out
over the coral. These animals suffering from sedimentation will start to recede and
eventually die. Sedimentation can also be an issue with other corals in aquariums
without mechanical filters or adequate waterflow, where the sediment is able to gather
on the surface of the coral. Many reef aquariums will never reach their potential due to
something as simple as one pestering nippy fish. Many fish will nip at the coral causing
it to close, this simple act may appear harmless but repetitively throughout the day it
can be enough to reduce the life of the animal. Many people make excuses for their
beloved favourite fish and are blind to the fact that it is slowly killing some of the corals.
Many fish behave differently when you are present in the room, so it is a good idea to
hide from the view of the fish and watch how they behave when you are not around.
Other people are aware of the problem but are not prepared to go to the effort required
to remove the fish because they cant catch it. If you want to have a thriving reef tank
you must be ready to do what it takes to remove fish that prove to be a problem, even if
this requires removing all the rocks and coral. It is common for people to house sand
Gobies in their aquarium. While this is a great way to ensure you have clean sand, it
can be detrimental to many types of coral as the Gobies will pick up sand and swim
through the tank dumping sand all over the coral. Some types of coral are affected by
this action and may perish due to it. If you do have Gobies watch for this problem and
be wary which corals you place towards the bottom of the tank. Old tank syndrome is a
phenomenon suffered by many aquariums, particularly those with high fish loads, no
mechanical filter or thick sand beds. Old tank syndrome is where the aquarium seems
to have deteriorated over time even though you are looking after it as well as ever and
your water parameters still seem to test as good. When this is occurring, the tank may
need a spring clean. To give the tank a spring clean, perform a large water change,
clean all the filters and rearrange the rocks in the back of the aquarium allowing you
access with a gravel siphon. It may take several attempts to allow the aquarium to
return to its former glory. Old tank syndrome is often caused by the build up of sediment
and detritus at the back of the tank. In this sediment, hydrogen sulfide can be created,
leeching into the aquarium and lowering the immune system of the fish and corals.
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Incorrect parameters are too often tolerated by even keen hobbyists. It is important to
remember that if the water is not quite right then with time the aquarium will be not quite
right. Even low levels of nitrate and phosphate will have a cost if given enough time.
Many animals can survive in water which is not quite right but what they are doing is
exactly that, surviving.
Isnt our aim to have aquariums that thrive? I suggest deciding on the quality of water
that you wish to aim for and really strive to maintain it. Dont become complacent
because it looks ok now. Things like low levels of phosphate or slightly high
temperatures may not have an immediate effect but will have a cost over time. The
affect of this tends to be one coral at a time slowly dies off even though most of the
others still look fantastic. If its not right, then it`s not right. Time and time again I find the
difference between an aquarium that survives and one that thrives is in the level of
magnesium. Most people are aware of magnesium and do add it on a weekly basis but
few ever get the level to the required 1200ppm. Weekly additions are advisable but they
tend only to help maintain the magnesium level. I have found that much larger doses
are required initially in order to get the magnesium level up in the first place. Once the
level is maintained I so often find the whole aquarium really starts to thrive and the
corals and coralline algae really start to grow. Magnesium is an essential element for
corals and it will allow your calcium, pH and kH levels to stay in solution as it acts as a
bonding agent.
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THE AQUARIUM
Why are saltwater fish harder to look after than freshwater
fish?
Saltwater fish are harder to look after than freshwater fish
because of the environment that they come from. Saltwater
fish mainly come from the ocean, which takes up about 71%
of the Earths surface area and is therefore the most stable
environment in the world. So the creatures that inhabit that environment are not able
to cope with fluctuation. Freshwater fish come from lakes and rivers that are
comparatively tiny next to the ocean and can experience large seasonal fluctuations.
The fact that they can naturally handle fluctuation makes freshwater fish easier to
keep in a miniature environment such as a fish tank.
The key to keeping saltwater fish is to ensure the water stays as stable as possible.
To do this, better filters and knowledge of water quality levels is required.
The bigger the water volume in the tank, the more ability you have to control what
occurs in your tank, and so the easier it is to look after.
Do remember that an aquarium is not a machine so not everything goes to plan. The
key to success in any aquarium is adequate equipment and access to information.
Why are tropical reef fish the most colourful fish?

Saltwater reef fish have evolved to be very colourful so they are able to camouflage
amongst the brightly coloured live corals.
Why do saltwater fish seem to be a lot easier to keep now than they were early
on?
The amount of equipment and information available to us now has strongly
progressed.
Another key factor is that reliable aquarium retailers now rarely sell fish that are drug
caught.
Is it damaging to the reefs for us to keep marine tanks?

In my opinion it is not damaging because it does enhance appreciation, awareness,
understanding and knowledge about what we should be trying to protect!
There are collection points where all of the fish and invertebrates come from. These
areas in total only amount to less than 1% of the world`s total reefs.
More marine life is killed by dynamite fishing in Indonesia than what the total worlds
aquarium trade uses.
I have no moral problem keeping marine animals as long as we try to offer them the
best chance we are able to, to ensure our animals are as happy as possible.
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Marine reefs have an unbelievable ability to renew themselves as they are subject to
natural predators and disasters.
As long as collection is monitored and carried out responsibly the hobby will only
make a tiny impact on this natural resource.
Farm-raised corals, clams and fish are becoming more common, and so try to
purchase them whenever possible over the wild caught specimens.
Avoid at all costs dynamite or drug caught fish.
Can you breed saltwater fish?

Yes, saltwater fish such as damsels, dottybacks and clowns are breed fairly
commonly in aquariums.
The hard bit about it is raising the young, as the babies feed on microscopic
organisms that are difficult to cultivate in captivity.
The only chance you have of raising the young is to do daily water changes with
natural seawater that contains the organisms.
Can fish see in colour?

Yes, they have very developed eyesight.
Can fish smell?

Yes, fish have a strong sense of smell that allows them to locate food.
Can fish hear?

Yes, fish have very good hearing it allows them to detect danger, locate prey and
communicate. Fish use their lateral line to navigate with a sonar system.
How do you measure a fish?

A fish must be measured from the tip of its nose to the start of its tail (dont include
the tail, because some fish have very long tails).
A way to measure a fish is to catch it in a net and lay the net on the front glass inside
the tank, with one hand on the net and your other hand to push the fish flat against
the glass. Then use a ruler with the hand you are using to hold the net.
You should rarely have to measure a fish (maybe only if you have to advertise and
sell it) as it can be quite stressful for the fish.
How long do fish live?

12-15 years is a good average lifespan for most fish in an aquarium.
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The length of time a fish lives is governed by the amount of stress it suffers during its
life.
What happens if there is a blackout / power failure?

A battery-powered air pump is a lifesaver in this situation as oxygen is the most
important consideration under these conditions.
If you are concerned about the tank temperature, place several blankets over the
tank to retain heat. If it has already lost heat place bottles of boiling water in the tank.
If you have access to a generator do so.
What do I do if I have to use insect spray in the room with a tank in it?
First cover the tank and any open filters such as mini reefs securely with blankets.
Also place any air pumps on top of the tank under the blanket so it cant pump the
poisoned air into the tank.
It is better not to smoke or spray aerosol around your reef tank without at least
taking these precautions.
SHOULD I GET A REEF TANK OR A FISH ONLY TANK?

How hard is it to keep a reef tank?
There are two keys to successfully keep any aquarium: ADEQUATE EQUIPMENT
and ACCESS TO INFORMATION.
As long as you get the right equipment and information to control the environment
you are creating, any tank should not be hard to keep.
With the equipment and information available to us now a reef tank is really not that
hard to keep.
Many people are under the impression that a reef tank is almost impossible to keep.
This is usually because they have attempted to do it without the right equipment and
information.
There are many different ways of setting up a reef tank and some are more
successful than other ways. So you may have to weigh up possible success with
possible expense.
It can be dangerous to chop and change a bit of one method with a bit of another
because each component relies on certain things to be functioning a particular way
to be successful.
Maintenance is more rewarding and enjoyable if it is done regularly, so it doesnt
escalate into a major chore.
How hard is it to keep a saltwater fish only tank?

If you have adequate equipment and information it is not hard to keep.
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Dont be under the impression that it is a lot easier than a reef tank because this is
not always true. You have more ability to stabilise a reef tank because of the reefs
ability to consume organic waste and provide food. I find I have more success with
most fish in a reef tank even though copper can be run in the fish only tank. The reef
seems to create a more homely and natural environment for the fish that also looks
better.
How hard is it to keep an invert only tank?

A tank with only inverts is a lot easier than a reef tank, because the inverts produce
far less waste so it is easier to maintain high water quality. An invert tank also tends
to house more scavengers and waste-consuming organisms.
An invert only tank can be easier than a fish only tank as long as you have the
equipment and knowledge to run it effectively.
The overall result is stunning though more subtle then a tank with bold fish.
Invert only tanks with sea horses can look great and run well.
Is a saltwater fish only tank easier than a reef tank?

A saltwater fish only tank is considered easier than a reef tank. This is true because
you have less to keep an eye on (there are no inverts) and the copper you are able
to put in the water can help stop the fish from getting sick.
On the other hand a fish only saltwater tank is harder to stabilise because the reef
tank tends to have a lot more able to recycle nutrients e.g. with filter feeder and
scavengers. A reef tank can be balanced to consume the waste it creates, to its
advantage.
In a saltwater fish tank the low-level waste builds up because there is little in the
tank to consume it. This low-level waste is dispersed when you do a water change.
The building up and dispersal of low-level waste is a fluctuation. Fluctuation causes
stress and that is what we are trying to minimize.
If you run the tank without copper you can put live rock and/or live sand in it in order
to stabilise it.
If you are only interested in colourful fish and dont want live coral I suggest you
check out the freshwater African Cichlids before you set up a saltwater fish only
tank.
Can I try any invertebrates in a tank that is essentially fish only?

If you have selected a fish only tank because the fish that you prefer are not
compatible in a reef tank, you can try some invertebrates that the fish are less likely
to eat. Some corals have toxic terpenes that protect them e.g. Sea Anemones, some
soft coral like Leather Corals.
Different fish seem to pick on different corals so if you try a small piece that gets
eaten dont replace that particular piece with the same species.
Page 24
If you dont want the hassle of providing very low nutrient water you can try adding
corals that live in high nutrient environments such as Catalalphyillia and Galaxea.
Leather corals, anemones, algae can handle more nutrients than stony corals.
Some lobsters, shrimp and crabs, hermit crabs are fine as long as the fish are not
predatorily and likely to eat them or unless the fish are too small and may get eaten
by them.
QUESTIONS ON SETTING UP SALTWATER TANKS

What size tank do I need?
The larger the water volume in the aquarium the more stable the environment,
therefore the more ability you will have to control it.
I have seen some successful small reef tanks (2ft) but I advise against them. By the
time you purchase all the equipment to set it up you may as well have a bigger one.
Water changes and low stock can be the make or break of small tanks.
Any extra water you can add to the system helps e.g. an extra barrel containing
water hooked up to the main system.
Where should I place the aquarium?

They are best in a place with as little direct sunlight as possible to help control algae
and temperature.
In the most cool place possible to minimize temperature fluctuation in summer.
Try to avoid it being in a strong draft.
Place the tank were it will be regularly and easily viewed but best not in the hallway.
When designing a tank ensure that all service areas are easily accessible because
the harder something is to access the less likely you will be to service it regularly.
Try to position the tank away from banging doors.
How high should I fill up the tank?

Fill the tank up 2-3cm from the top to avoid surface spray and prevent fish from
jumping out though gaps.
5cm if you have no lids.
Is there any problem placing your hand into the tank?

Placing clean hands into a tank creates no major problems though it is important that
your hands are free of any detergents or perfumes.
Every time you put your hands in the tank the acids, oils and fats from your skin
affects the equilibrium of the water. Your may notice that the skimmer will cease to
froth; this is as a result of the fatty acids from your skin.
Try to avoid rearranging anything in a reef tank unless in is necessary.
Page 25
An aquarium will never become established if you are constantly rearranging the
tank.
Should you wear gloves while your hands are in the tank water?
I would only recommend this if your skin gets an allergic reaction to the live corals.
I dont tend to wear gloves because I am afraid to damage the living corals as a
result of the lack of control you have wearing bulky gloves.
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5 STEP LADDER TO AQUARIUM SUCCESS

Step 1 - Aquarium and Equipment
The first step of the ladder to aquarium success is to have the
right aquarium and the right equipment for the fish that you
wish to keep.
Equipment check list:
Adequate size tank You must ensure that the aquarium
that you purchase will provide enough room for the fish that
you select to grow and thrive.
Adequate size filter The filter that you have must be able
to house enough bacteria in the filter to break down the amount of waste that is
produced by the fish that you wish to keep.
There is a new filter media product which is soon to be released in Australia which is
called Revolution. Revolution refugium is a block or balls made of cell pore which allows
the perfect safe place for all different types of bacteria and micro organisms. It is the
perfect way to control Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. These blocks or balls can be placed
in the filter, sump or the back of the tank. Revolution is the most amazing filter media on
the market. Order yours NOW by emailing paul@majesticaquariums.com.au Another
amazing new media which is also about to be released in Australia is called Polyfilter.
Polyfilter is able to damatically reduce you maintainance and algae growth, it is the most
amazing chemical media. It removes all impurities out of the water including phosphate.
A must for every aquarium! Order yours NOW by emailing
paul@majesticaquariums.com.au
Step 2 - Oxygen and Water quality
The second step of the ladder to aquarium success is to have adequate oxygen and
water quality to allow the fish to thrive.
Oxygen is an essential element for fish; the way that you provide oxygen level at
saturation is to ensure that the surface area of the aquarium is totally agitated, which
will allow gas exchange.
Each type of fish has particular water parameter requirements. It is important to
understand and provide the fish you want to keep with the correct conditions. These
include Temperature, pH, kH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate maybe even Calcium,
Phosphate and Salt Level. This means that not all fish should be kept together and
you need to match up the conditions you are providing with the requirements of the
fish that you wish to keep.
There are new products such as Easylife available on the market that affect the
molecular structure of the water. Easylife will help to hold all of the good and precipitate
all of the bad elements out of both fresh and salt water. This is the best way of providing
perfect oxygen and water quality.
Page 27
Step 3 Fish, Plant and Coral Selection

You must ensure that the animals that you keep suit the particular water parameters
that you offer in your tank.
It is important to understand the behaviour of the fish you wish to keep and that not
all fish get along with each other. Some will be territorial, some aggressive, some
predatory and some will eat plants, corals and invertebrates.
When introducing coral to your tank you need to ensure that they are receiving
adequate amounts of light and water flow. This may mean that you have to relocate
the coral if it does not look to be thriving after 3 weeks in a particular spot.
Step 4 - Food and Supplements

Fish, plants and corals require particular ratios of nutrients and trace elements in
order to thrive. How well your animals thrive will be limited to the availability of these
nutrients and supplements.
It is important to offer your fish the best quality food possible. Variety may be
valuable but is no substitute for quality. The best quality food on the market is New
Life Spectrum, which delivers the exact ratios of nutrients required by all fish.
Many plants and corals will require supplements in order to thrive, e.g. Iron,
Manganese, Calcium, Strontium, Magnesium and Iodide.
Step 5 - Maintenance
Every aquarium will require routine maintenance in order to thrive, e.g. test water, clean
mechanical filter media, replace chemical filter media, clean biological filter media in
water from the tank, and clean substrate with gravel vacuum when you do a partial
water change. Keeping any type of fish can be amazingly enjoyable and rewarding as
long as you climb the 5 step ladder to aquarium success.
Page 28
TOP 13 AQUARIUM TIPS

1. The silent killer of pet fish is low carbonate hardness known
as kH! Most people know about pH but not kH. The kH level
of most tap water is zero. Carbonate hardness is an
essential element for fish keeping and can be so easily
fixed by adding kH buffers to the water. It is important to
ensure your water is tested to provide your fish with the
correct kH level. Bring a sample of your water to Majestic
Aquariums now for a FREE kH water test!
2. Did you know that cleaning your aquarium filter in tap water may kill your fish!
The filter is full of good bacteria that breaks down the waste from your fish. The
chlorine in the tap water kills the good bacteria in the filter. To clean your filter
media, use water that you have removed from your tank, dont use tap water!
Happy fish need a good filter and plenty of oxygen in the water!
3. Over feeding is one of the biggest killers of pet fish! Did you know that most fish
only need to be fed five times a week? With high quality food, such as New Life
Spectrum, you will only need to feed the fish what they eat in 30 seconds. High
quality food will ensure that your fish are healthier, more vibrantly colourful and
the tank will stay cleaner because the fish will produce less waste! Quality food
and a healthy environment is the key to keeping happy fish!
4. Never over clean your aquarium! It is better to do small regular cleans than large
overhauls that can shock your fish. When you do a water change, use a gravel
vacuum siphon to remove the water so you can clean your gravel at the same
time and dont change more than 25% of the water at a once! To reduce your
maintenance ask us about Aquarium detox!
5. Do you know that you can reduce your aquarium maintenance by simply using
better filter media like Polyfilter. Polyfilter is the worlds best filter material and it
can be used in any aquarium! This unique patented material removes all
pollutants including phosphate, which is the cause of algae! It changes colour to
indicate what it has removed and it will turn black when it needs to be replaced.
6. Have you ever wondered how to get your aquarium water to be crystal clear? Try
Easy-Life fluid filter medium. Easy-Life actually affects the molecular structure of
water using minerals not chemicals. It holds all the good, and precipitates all the
bad elements out of both fresh and salt water. It accelerates the growth of good
bacteria and prevents the growth of bad bacteria. Easy-Life improves and
stabilises water quality.
7. Too often people tell me that they had fish but they died! Fish dont just die; they
die for a reason. Your fish, coral and plants should grow, if they are not growing
then they are dying and they will only die for 2 reasons, because there is too
much of something or there is not enough of something. It is all about balance. If
your fish are not thriving, bring in a sample of your aquarium water for a free
water test.
8. The more that you learn about your fish the more you will enjoy your aquarium,
so why not grab one of our instructional aquarium DVDs! Fish are amazing
animals, many with complex social structures, intriguing breeding behaviour and
Page 29
exquisite colour! Fish make great pets, especially for people that live in units. An
aquarium is the ultimate piece of furniture and is cheaper than water views.
9. I am regularly called out to solve mystery aquarium problems, where people are
losing their fish even though they seem doing the right things and their water
tests are all good! The problem is often a lack of oxygen! Make sure that water
surface of your aquarium or pond is not flat! You need to ensure your water is
agitated because flat water has a high surface tension which limits air exchange!
Oxygen is very important to your fish!
10. Majestic Aquariums grade our saltwater fish as 1, 2 or 3 fish! Number 1 fish are
very easy to keep in standard aquarium conditions, whereas with number 2s we
find some people are successful while others are not and number 3 fish can be
finicky so should only be attempted by the most experienced keepers. This helps
you to make the correct choice for fish that suit you.
11. Did you know that white spot is the most common disease effecting aquarium
fish? The best way to try to avoid white spot in a is to only introduce new fish if
your aquarium has been running successfully and to feed food rich in garlic such
and New Life Spectrum Thera A. If your fish do develop white spot we can help
you find the cause if you bring a water sample from your tank. There are many
good white spot medications available.
12. Aquarium filters use bacteria to break high level fish waste into low level waste.
So imagine a media that also eliminates the low level waste, therefor reducing
your need for water changes? The long awaited MarinePure media has just been
released in Australia! MarinePure is the best biological media on the market and
is suitable for all types of aquariums and ponds.
13. Have you had a problem with algae in your aquarium? There is no such thing as
an algae problem; there is only a phosphate problem! Algae feeds on phosphate
so if your phosphate level is zero for 3 weeks your algae will start to die. If you
keep it at zero for another 3 weeks the algae will be all gone! It is that easy!
Come down to Majestic Aquariums for a free phosphate test! For all your
aquarium needs and more great tips go to majesticaquariums.com.au and dont
forget to check out our instructional aquarium DVDs, FREE ebook, seminars and
video streaming all at majesticaquariums.com.au!
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SURVIVE OR THRIVE
I believe that too many people start their aquariums with the
aim of its inhabitants surviving. I would like to suggest that this
hobby is now way past this simple aim. Due to a lack of
information and technology, aquariums once had a reputation
as being hard to keep. I have done some study into the mindset of people that have
aquariums that thrive as opposed to those that have aquariums that merely survive. I
have found that the difference involves more than a choice, it to be able to see an
aquarium with a new set of understandings. When I say thriving I mean beautiful, clean
tanks that are easy to maintain, full of fish that are happily growing and breeding and
plants or coral that that are growing and propagating. The first thing I want you to
understand is that your aquarium is perfect and it is exactly what it should be. So many
people blame their aquarium for its problems e.g. I would love my tank if it didnt have
so much algae or I would love it if the fish didnt keep dying, like it is the fault of the tank.
Guess what, its not the tanks fault, its your fault and only your fault. These people seek
advice on how to fix these problems and may take a step in the direction of it being fixed
but just dont get there e.g. they find out that their algae problem is caused by elevated
phosphate levels, so they do a water change, cut down food and even add a phosphate
sponge and wonder the very next week why the problem is not solved. Many people fall
short of creating a solution, even though they did take a step in the right direction. I
need you to understand that much of what you do today will not show up tomorrow,
even next week, more likely next month. Using algae as an example, let`s say that you
find out that the algae is caused by phosphate so you do everything you need to do to
get your phosphate down to zero but still the algae lives on. Well guess what, the algae
doesnt want to die, it will cling to life until it is literally starved of the conditions it needs
to live e.g. present phosphate. This will not happen overnight, but with time it will
happen. The good news it that once it is gone, it is gone and it will take a while until it
returns, once original conditions are present again and at least this time you will easily
have the power to fix it again. Another area that people complain about is that one
person says one thing and someone else says something else - how will I ever know
what is right if experts cant even agree, so why should I bother? Let me share
something with you - everything you know about your aquariums and everything that
anyone knows about their aquarium has all been made up! Understand that there is no
truth, so stop looking for it. People will share their experience of what to do and how
things happen but that is all it is, their experience and this is true if you are talking to a
marine scientist, an expert aquarist or your neighbour. Understand that there are many
ways of doing things and none are the right way, they are all made up, either by them or
the person that told it to them. Just do what makes sense to you and you will soon see
exactly how your aquarium reacts, which may be different to how your neighbours
aquarium reacts. An example of getting information on a solution from one person to the
next is lets say I have a 10lt bucket of water and I need to get the water from one 10lt
bucket to the next, so I ask one person and they say siphon it, someone else say no,
no, no, you have to scoop it, until someone else sees you scoop it and says hey just
pour it, this all makes sense until you see someone happily splashing it in. The point
that I am trying to make is that if you know what you are trying to do e.g. get water from
one bucket to the next it doesnt matter how you do it, if you know what you are trying to
do. When learning about your aquarium the aim is really to learn what are you trying to
do. Too many people argue and focus on how to do it. Once you know what you are
Page 31
trying to do you will not be confused about how to do it, you will feel freedom in
choosing how you decide to do it. Everyone has an opinion on the right and wrong ways
of doing things but having an aquarium is about you giving it a try and learning what
works for your system. Learn to accept your tank just the way it is and just the way it
isnt. The aquarium does what the aquarium does and that is exactly what it is supposed
to do. When you understand this, it will bring you new power to enjoy your tank e.g. one
fish doesnt get along with another one, so watch and enjoy this natural interaction until
you believe the life of the weaker fish is in danger then remove one of the fish to
another aquarium, but dont resent the fish as if that wasnt supposed to happen,
because exactly what happened is exactly what is supposed to happen. You are meant
to watch and enjoy every interaction in your aquarium, not just the nice ones. Do you
think that some fish dont get along in the wild? Of course they dont. You will never
control your aquarium, but you will have control over it. Too many times, people have
come to me and said that over the last year one fish has killed off all the other fish in
their tank. Remembering that you do have control over your tank, at this point it would
be a good idea to possibly move this fish to another tank once it has killed the second
fish and save all the other fish. Your observations and actions are the key to a thriving
tank. Never forget that you bought your aquarium to watch it, so watch it. Watch what
happens, enjoy what happens, be alert to what happens and use your control over it. I
would like to suggest that most problems that occur in your aquarium could be avoided
by learning the rules of how to keep an aquarium and using your control over what you
see happening. You have some control over your aquarium but you will never control it
completely, so except this and enjoy it. It is your job to create the possibility of your
aquarium thriving. If your aquarium is not the way you want it, create the possibility that
it will be great and give it time to show you results. The way to create a new possibility
with your aquarium is to start doing something new, which will allow something new to
show up, remembering that when you make a change today you can often expect to
see the change show up next month. Thriving aquariums are often the result of
patience. Most chemical or biological changes in your aquarium take about 3 weeks to
really make a difference. Imagine, visualise and plan your perfect aquarium before you
start - if you fail to plan, you plan to fail. So many people walk into an aquarium shop
because they would like a new fish, without any idea of what type of fish they are
looking for. They will ask the staff on duty how these fish will go with the few fish they
are able to name in their tank. As you can imagine sometimes this works and other
times it doesnt. Creating a plan for your tank including a wish list is a very good idea.
This way you are able to show your wish list to many aquarists before you start buying
your fish and learning the hard way which fish dont often work together. Imagining,
visualising and planning your tank is the best way to make sure that your tank turns out
with the best result. Taking responsibility for what it will be will ensure you dont have to
focus on what it is. What it is is a product of what you did in the past. Learn that there is
no one else to blame but you for why your aquarium is not thriving and I dont mean just
surviving. Never blame the people that give you advice, they are only trying to help and
next time they may help. An aquarium has many factors that must be taken into
consideration when giving even simple advice, only you are able to understand the
happenings of your tank, so dont get angry at the guy at the aquarium store that has
tried to help you in a five minute conversation, when what he has said didnt work out.
Learn your aquarium yourself and remember that whatever happens to it in this time
was supposed to happen and each incident will carry lessons to help your grow as an
experienced fish keeper. Good experience is often born out of bad experiences. Never
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give in and keep seeking the best advice. Keeping an aquarium is a game, play the
game. You need a vision with results to make it worth playing the game. No matter what
happens, dont forget that it is just a game and one that if you lose the game you didnt
play it well enough and you can always play again and win next time. When playing a
game you often need a good coach so it can be important to seek out and create a
relationship with a good aquarium adviser that can help you win the game of keeping a
thriving aquarium. Ask around, because you will find this person and your relationship
with them will bloom as they get to contribute to and share in the adventures of your
thriving aquarium. If you are not an aquarium expert it is as important to have an
aquarium coach as it is to have a mechanic for your car. Aim to have a perfect tank,
dont aim to just see how it goes. You need to have a vision that truly inspires you in
order to have a tank the really thrives. Dont aim to have a tank that survives, aim to
have a tank that thrives. The way your tank is today is the way it always will be, unless
you change it now - tomorrow never comes. So many times I hear people say that they
will improve their aquarium when this and when that. When is now, now or never, your
fish deserve nothing but the best so why would you give them any less? When you
break down what really needs to be done to have a thriving tank, it never takes as long
as it seems, and anticipation and procrastination are huge killers of this beautiful hobby.
People pretend to be good and that they look after their tank. Understand that you are
never doing the best you can and try to do at least one thing better. This simple
understanding can allow constant growth in you and your hobby. How good your
aquarium goes is governed by your vision, equipment and knowledge. Enrol people
around you and yourself in how wonderful your aquarium is and what it brings to you.
Create the possibility of what you want it to be and dont focus on the things that you
dont want or you will attract them to you. Sharing the joy your aquarium means to you
is the best way to bring your joy alive and to allow you to really feel and get in touch with
what your aquarium really means to you. To have a perfect tank you will have to be
unreasonable because many reasons will stop you from having the tank that you desire.
A reasonable tank is an average tank, dont be stopped by reasons. You will always
create the most amazing results when you are unreasonable. Enjoy your hobby and
learn to monitor your internal chatterbox or the voice of reason in your head. Learn that
this voice in your head it not you, it is just a little voice which will hold you back in every
thing you do, including keeping the aquarium of your dreams. Listening to this voice will
limit you and stress you out. If the voice tells you that tank is too big or I am too tired to
clean the filter now, listen to the voice but choose what you know you should do. Dont
listen to that voice because everything it says is reasonable and you want a better tank
than a reasonable tank. Get in tune with how the success of your aquarium affects you
life. For many, how their aquarium is going affects their whole outlook on life. Train
yourself to enjoy and do your regular maintenance and dont anticipate it, because the
anticipation is always worse than actually doing it. So many people will literally be
scared of their tank because they know that their filter is overdue for a clean and they
tell themself that they dont have the time to clean it. In the mean time, they have spent
more time stressing about cleaning it then they would spend if they actually just cleaned
it. Enjoying your maintenance is a major key in having an aquarium that thrives. If you
know you dont want to spend the time cleaning your tank, then get someone in to
service it for you. This may cost you money but will save you money in the long run by
not having to replace fish and will keep you enjoying your hobby, which is why you got
the tank in the first place. Having a poorly maintained tank with fish dying will make you
hate this hobby that you wanted to love. Dont be scared to fail because sometimes you
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will. All great hobbyists with the most amazing tanks that you dream to have can tell you
some horror stories of things that happened to them early on while they were
developing their skills. These experiences were necessary to allow them to have the
thriving tank that they have now.
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TOO MUCH OR NOT ENOUGH?

Every problem with every reef aquarium is just a matter of too
much or too little of something! I am very regularly called out to
solve problems with peoples reef aquarium because a coral is
not doing well. I have discovered that there is only ever one of
two things wrong with any coral. It either has too much of
something or not enough of something. For example it is
always problems like too much flow, too much phosphate, too much harassment from
fish or not enough light, not enough trace elements, not enough space between it and
the next coral. Every time I solve a problem it is always too much or not enough of
something, it is that simple. The trick is to find out what it has too much or not enough
of. Light is a major consideration for all corals. It is important to try to replicate the
lighting conditions that the coral would naturally experience. The major considerations
here are intensity and colour. As the water gets deeper the intensity decreases and
mainly only the blue in the spectrum is able to penetrate, so corals found in deeper
water should be kept under high Kelvin globes like 20,000 kelvin and/or be placed lower
down in the aquarium. Corals from shallow water prefer lower Kelvin globes like 10,000
kelvin and are best positioned at the top of the aquarium. Using this knowledge it is
important to consider where you are going to position a particular coral in your aquarium
before you purchase it. The aim of your rock structure really should be to present as
many positions possible for corals to be placed on allowing them maximum exposure to
the light. Ensure that you position each coral to maximize how much light they can
gather. Corals that dont require any light should be positioned where there is little to no
light as too much light may create an overgrowth of algae which the coral will find hard
to compete with. These corals also require regular hand feeding and prefer more flow
as they rely on it for food. Corals have an amazing ability to adapt to different conditions
but the more we understand the natural conditions of a particular coral the betters its
chances are. One of the main ways that a coral will adapt is to expel its current
zooxanthellae and replace it with new ones. This will often cause the coral to appear to
change colour. Water flow is also a major consideration for coral survival. The ocean
current washes away the coral`s waste and the waxy film that it produces to free itself of
algae and sediment. Some corals are naturally found in conditions with very powerful
waterflow while others are found in very calm areas. This consideration will effect where
it will do best in your home aquarium. If it looks like the coral is being battered around
by the current and it is not opening properly, then you can bet it is positioned where
there is too much flow. Try moving the coral to a position in the tank further away from
the waterflow and see how it reacts. Also watch to see if the tentacles of the coral looks
stagnant and if sediment is forming on the coral. These are a sign that the coral needs
to be in a position with more waterflow. The more you know about the coral, the easier it
is to play this game, but at the end of the day it is really the coral that tells you what it
wants. Some corals of similar species can be placed right next to each other while
different species need a considerable amount of space between each other if you want
both to thrive. In nature many corals have to compete for space using toxins to
suppress and sting each other. It is often easy to see if a coral is suffering due to
competition because one side of the coral closest to the aggressor will be closed while
the other side may still be thriving. When you see this, it is important to move one of the
corals to allow them both to grow. Most corals get most of their nutrients from the light,
while others total rely on filter feeding from the water. Not enough organic food present
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in the water will starve some corals, while too much will affect others. Some corals
come from nutrient-poor water and cannot deal with even low levels of nutrients in the
water, while for others these nutrients are a must. If you are getting too much algae in
your aquarium, especially if it is well fed, it is important to maintain low phosphate
levels. Phosphate is the main reason for algae problems and this is associated with
feeding. Adequate use of phosphate sponges will ensure this is never a problem.
People rarely use enough phosphate reducing media in order for it to be effective
against algae. So once again the same thing: too much of something or not enough of
something. Trace elements seem to have different effects on different corals. Various
trace elements are crucial for the long-term success of some corals, while those same
elements dont seem to be as important for other corals. Consider that most trace
elements dont stay in solution for long so they have to be replaced regularly and also
that many trace elements are toxic if they are overdosed. For that reason, it is essential
to ensure that you do not have too high or too low levels of trace elements in your
marine tank. Some corals just need a little peace in order to thrive. It is important to
regularly sit quietly a fair distance from the tank to allow you to view the behavior of the
fish in your aquarium. The fish will often respond differently when they sense your
presence in the room. Allowing your fish to exhibit their natural behaviour will often
reveal that a particular coral is not opening and doing well because it is being harassed
by a particular fish, commonly a Wrasse or an Angel. Even if a fish isnt eating the coral,
it still may end up killing it. A nip here and a nip there may stress the coral and cause it
to close up regularly enough to effect it long-term. Not enough peace can be a problem
even for corals. Temperature is the most common problem in reef aquariums. Not
enough heat is rarely a problem these days because of how reliable common aquarium
heaters are. Too much heat is the big killer! Anyone that lives in areas with warm
summers will place their reef aquariums at risk every year if they dont have an
aquarium chiller. Temperature over 27C for extended periods of time can be enough to
effect coral growth long term, 29C can kill many types of corals within days. Running a
reef aquarium you must be concise with how much salt there is in your water. Corals
seem to do best if the salt level is on the high side e.g. 1.025, while fish tend to
introduce better at a lower salt level e.g. 1.020. Because of this I suggest running an
established tank at 1.025 and a new tank or a tank likely to be accepting new fish at
1.020. I commonly recommend people lower the salt in their established tank when they
are adding new fish. This will reduce the osmotic pressure on the new fish and allow it
to be introduced with a lower chance of suffering from stress and/or parasitic disease
such as white spot. Often I find reef aquariums full of thriving fish with struggling corals-
this is because the salt level is run too low. So the big question is too much salt or not
enough salt. Once you place a coral in your aquarium, watch it for 3 weeks and if it is
not reacting the way that you know it should then move it to another position, keeping in
mind whether it may be getting too much or too little light, flow or space. It is that
simple- too much or too little. The aim of every reef-keeper really should be to have an
aquarium that is truly thriving, not just surviving. If your corals are not growing then they
are dying. Consider that if your corals grow they will outlive you, and if they only live for
a year or so then that is how long they take to die. If they are dying, then they have too
much of something or not enough of something - its that simple.
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PROTEIN SKIMMERS
I am a big fan of the use of a protein skimmer in any marine
aquarium with fish only or a highly populated or new reef
aquarium. A protein skimmer is a device that will remove
various organic matter from the water, by bonding it with
oxygen. The organics bond to the surface of the oxygen
bubbles and are propelled up where they are collected out of
the water column in a collection cup. The clean water travels to
the bottom of the protein skimmer unit where it is returned to the
aquarium free of the organics. I have been quoted many times
in the media as being someone that is against the protein skimmer. I want to clarify that
this was never the case. I have always valued the protein skimmer but was one of the
first to stand up and say that it is not always required and does have some negative
effects worth noting. At this time it was believed that a skimmer was totally necessary
for any reef aquarium. I didnt believe this at all because while it can remove various
organics, it can also strip the water of valuable trace elements. To an aquarium run with
bio balls, a skimmer does make a huge impact on the water quality. The bio balls break
high-level waste into low-level waste or put another way, it turns something you dont
want into something else you dont want. The skimmer, if placed before the bio balls, is
able to remove organics before they are broken down by the bio balls into low level
waste, which the skimmer cant remove. The low-level waste will build up until it has
negative effects on your inhabitants and increases your algae growth. It will also require
more water changes. Placing the skimmer after the bio balls doesnt make sense
because the high-level waste has already been broken down by the bio balls before it
gets to the skimmer. So in many cases all the skimmer is able to remove is your
valuable trace elements. The skimmer seems to be most valuable to new aquariums
with unstable bio loads, but once the aquariums become stable (unless run with bio
balls), there should be adequate bacterial allocation to ensure that your water quality
remains high regardless of the use of the skimmer. At this point the cap can be removed
from the skimmer and it can be viewed as an oxygen reactor. Please note that the
amount of oxygen offered to a system is far less then logic would suggest, but is still
better then nothing. The presence of organic waste will have more of a negative impact
on coral than the absence of trace elements so only remove the collection cup of the
skimmer when the tank is stable, all the animals are thriving and you have conducted a
three week skimmer test. Once the corals start to thrive and your water quality is high,
trace elements become more of a limiting factor than the impact of using the skimmer.
The skimmer will remove waste which is already able to be broken down by stable
bacterial allocation. The three week skimmer test is a way of testing the value of a
skimmer to a system. The way I do a skimmer test is to not do any water changers or
add any trace elements or other chemicals at all for three weeks. If you find at the end
of the three weeks your skimmer is no longer pulling out waste, add a dose of trace
elements. At this point the skimmer will start to skim again and prove to you that all it is
removing is the trace elements that you purchased to add to your tank. It is this use of
the skimmer that I have been vocally against. Once you have done the three week
skimmer test, you can also do a trace element test to see which of your choice of trace
elements is most likely to be moved by the skimmer. With the skimmer running, try
adding only one solution and see how much of it is removed by the skimmer in the next
couple of days, then wait a week with the skimmer on before you add the next. By the
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end of this test, you will clearly see which solutions need to have the cap removed and
which can be added with the skimmer working. Many corals require the presence of
various trace elements in order to thrive long-term. If these elements are lacking, with
time there will be a cost to the coral. Some people argue that they dont need trace
elements but experiments have proven that their value is significant. This is easily seen
in their reaction once they are added or after a water change is done. This thinking is
similar to the person that says that they feel fine even though they have high blood
pressure. Sure you are fine with high blood pressure now, next month, next year but
with time there will be a cost. The removal of trace elements is the main downside to a
skimmer, so I suggest every one consider getting a skimmer and use it while the tank is
new, unstable or over-populated. Tanks that are over populated will benefit by the use
of a skimmer. In this case when you see the need for the trace elements but do also feel
the need to have organics stripped from your tank due to the high fish loads, you can try
a system of running and removing the cup on the skimmer. Since many trace elements
dont stay in solution from long periods of time anyhow, it is worth taking the cup of the
skimmer for two days after the trace elements have been added and then returning the
cup to the skimmer until the elements are added again, at least weekly. Many other
types of media are now available that can be used to remove organics which will not
remove trace elements such as Bio Chem Zorb, Rowa Carbon and Purigen. These
media can give very good results and I encourage using them all the time. The use of a
protein skimmer will also help to improve mechanical filtration as many particles, even
parasites and algae spores, will be removed by the skimmer. Some skimmer designs
are far more effective than others. It is worth researching which one will suit your
application and give the best results. No matter how good your skimmer is, the thing
that limits its production most is how often the inside of the neck in the collection cup is
cleaned. This doesnt mean tipping out the collected matter, it means cleaning the
inside of the neck where the fatty acids and bacteria grow and break down the organics,
stopping them from going over the edge into the collection cup. The more often this is
cleaned the more effective the skimmer is regardless of the design of the unit. The idea
when setting a skimmer is to have the white foam staying in the inside of the neck and
the coloured foam rising over into the collection cup. The chamber should be white with
bubbles but not with so many bubbles that they overflow out of the skimmer into the
collection cup as white foam or escape through the outlet into the tank, filling it with
micro bubbles. To set the skimmer, the aim is to have the coloured foam go into the cup
and the white foam stay in the neck. To do this, open up the air valve to raise the foam
in the unit and close off the air valve to lower the foam in the unit. Ozone can also be
added to various skimmer designs. Ozone will offer better water clarity and disease
control, but it will reduce the function of the skimmer by often resulting in the
accumulation of nitrate. I advise conducting research before adding ozone as residual
ozone is toxic. As with any piece of equipment in this hobby, ozone has it place namely
in commercial use. I do feel an effective over-sized skimmer is a must on any tank
housing sharks or rays, because they excrete a higher level of waste call urea which
places a higher demand on the biological filtration of a system and is best removed
using a large skimmer. Protein skimmers have also been developed now for fresh water
but are only common in significant koi ponds. In summary, I believe a skimmer is a
great piece of equipment that has many uses for all marine aquariums but they are not
what I consider to be always necessary and do not need to be run all the time.
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TOP 9 AQUARIUM MYTHS - BUSTED!

1. They are too expensive?
This is not true; the all in one aquariums are very reasonably
priced and can even be purchased on easy pay plans. Fore
example:
A standard 4ft 200lt set up Tank $120
Stand $150
Filter $100
Light $ 80
Heater and thermometer $ 50
Gravel and decorations $150
Fish $150
Food $ 20
Test kits $ 30
Ager, salt and kH $ 30
Total $880
So on easy pay a $255 deposit and as little as $14.88 per week for 10 months! You can
pick up some amazingly cheap second hand tanks too on eBay or the trading post!
Compared to any other piece of furniture, the aquarium will be the focal point of any
home and provide a massive amount of education, interest, fun, relaxation and is a
great hobby or pet for the whole family!
2. They cost too much to run?

Many people think an aquarium costs a lot to run! This does not have to be true, it can
be done very cheaply. Here is the breakup of the running costs of an average 4ft (200lt)
aquarium per year:
Food 600g spectrum $60
Water ager 250ml Prime $30
kH buffer 500g general kH $30
Aquarium salt - 1kg $40
Filter wool 1 large bag $30
So it will cost about $190 per year to run a (4ft 200lt tank), that is less than $3.75 a
week.
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3. They use a lot of power?

This does not have to be true! I have had very disappointed customers shut down their
aquariums because of power costs only to find that their electricity prices are still very
high even once it is gone. You can check what your tank costs by finding out what your
rates are. The average price to run 1w for 1 year is $1.50 so e.g. in an average 4ft 200lt
aquarium you will have 5w air pump $7.50 per year 30w Canister filter $45 per year
200w heater (on for of the year) $75 40w light (on for of the day) $15 Total $142.50
per year so $35.63 per quarter, $2.74 per week. Compared to other household items
like fridges, heaters, air conditioner, big TVs, ovens, dishwashers, washing machines,
dryers and vacuums cleaners, aquarium equipment is VERY cheap! It is also worth
popping into Majestic Aquariums and telling us what you are running on your tank so we
can suggest more energy efficient substitutes such as Aquael, you will be amazed how
much you can save over the life of the product by buying more efficient equipment!
4. Time consuming?
Many people think it is very time consuming to run a tropical aquarium but with the
correct equipment and information it is simply not true, it is a myth. A standard 4ft (200lt)
tropical aquarium should take less than an average of 15 minutes per week to maintain.
This is a breakdown of the time it takes to run a standard 4ft (200lt) tropical aquarium:
Clean glass - You should not have to clean the glass at all providing that you have
adequate sucker mouth catfish such as Plecos. If you do need to clean the glass it
should not take longer than - 5 minutes if cleaned regularly.
Clean filter media in water removed from the tank - 10 minutes.
Water change - removing 20% of the water using a gravel cleaner - 10 minutes.
Prepare the new water in a 20lt bucket with 2 teaspoons of salt and a teaspoon of
kH powder and replaced to the tank - 10 minutes.
Clean filter media in water removed from the tank - 10 minutes.
Test pH and kH- and adjust if necessary 2 minutes. Total per month 47 minutes
per month.
Plus feeding that is less than 15mintues per week.
5. They are hard to look after?

Many people think that tropical fish are hard to look after and the fish die all the time.
This myth is simply not true for most fish, but it does depend on the fish that you select
because some fish are easier than others to look after. To look after your average fish
you:
Watch the Instructional Tropical Aquarium DVD.
Feed them high quality fish food such as New Life Spectrum daily.
Have adequate filtration and aeration.
Service the tank about once a month as above.
Know what a healthy fish looks like, that way you can tell if they are sick?
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Must ensure that they like the same pH and temperature as you have?
Test temperature, pH and kH every 2 weeks.
Watch that the fish are getting along.
Ensure you have enough fish to allow them to feel safe.
6. 30 second memory
Many people think that fish have a 30 second memory? This is an untrue myth! Some
fish are actually very intelligent and able to quickly learn:
Who feeds them?
Where they are fed?
What time they are fed?
Where they are allowed to go in the tank (due to other territories).
What other fish to stay away from (if they are aggressive to them).
What their position is in the hierarchy?
Some fish such as Oscars can even be trained to jump out of the tank and eat food
out of your fingers.
7. Many people think fish are boring?

This Myth! Some fish are actually very intelligent and extremely interesting to watch with
complex social structures, strict hierarchy, set territories and have amazing breeding
behaviours which include nest building, colour displays and dancing! Any one that has
ever kept an aquarium full of Cichlids would be very familiar with this! In a standard tank
you will see:
Which fish is the boss of the tank?
Which fish live in what territories?
Which fish like to build spawning nests?
Which fish like what food?
Which fish eat algae in the tank?
Which fish is very gluttonous?
Which fish are shy?
Which are aggressive and territorial?
Which like to swim in a school?
Which like to hide?
Which are nocturnal?
Which are mouth or live breeders, substrate nester or egg scatterers? In general, the
more intelligent fish tend to be more interesting to watch (just as a yard of dogs is
more interesting to watch than a field of sheep).
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Intelligent fish in general tend to be more aggressive too so the key is to have enough of
them to suppress any aggression with numbers. The funny thing about fish is the more
you learn about them the more you identify with and love them! The key to being
interested in your fish is taking the time to actively watch them! It is even fun to narrate
to yourself what you think they are doing and thinking?
8. You cant go away on holidays

Many people think that once they get a fish tank you cannot go away on holidays. This
is an untrue myth, that fact is everyone goes on holidays and the only people that have
problems are people that are not prepared. I would suggest reading the article on tips
for when you go away on holidays in the eBook on www.majesticaquariums.com.au
first! The worst thing you can do is get your friend to feed the fish while you are away
because they often over feed the fish! It is better to use an auto feeder.
9. My cat will eat them

Crazy as it sounds some people think they cant get fish because their cat will eat the
fish! This is highly unlikely, most cats will rarely go near the tank or figure out how to
open the lid and then proceed to catch the fish. Most cats hate water and will have little
desire to go after your fish! This is so rare I have almost never heard of it actually
happening. Aquariums are amazing and they bring so much joy to the whole family, it is
such a shame that some people dont get into it due to untrue myths! It is very important
to get good advice on your tank so I would suggest starting by watching Your
Instructional Aquarium DVD and let me know if you ever need help by emailing me
paul@majesticaquariums.com.au.
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SAFELY MOVING AN AQUARIUM?

Things that you will need are:
A siphon pipe
A water pump that you can attach to the siphon pipe
Enough foam boxes to hold the fish, corals, plants, gravel
and rocks that you have in the tank.
Enough 20lt hand drums to carry at least half the volume of the water in the
aquarium.
Battery-powered air pump
Bacteria product
Water ager and Easy-Life
Large fish nets
Flat plastic spade
Stand levelers 1.
Steps to follow
Get an eskie or foam box, which is to be half filled with water siphoned from the
aquarium, which you can place the fish into for the trip. If you have plants or corals
then they can go in a separate box to the fish. Dont put too many fish per box, it is
better to have more boxes than less. As long as the room is a comfortable
temperature you should not need to place a heater in the box. If you do need to
place a heater in the box then ensure that it does not touch the side of the box as it
may melt the plastic. Easy-life is an amazing product which will ensure that the water
quality and oxygen level remains high during the whole moving process. This
product will massively reduce the chance of fish stress.
Remove the aerator from the main tank and introduce it to the foam box to give the
fish oxygen during this process. Dont leave the fish without oxygen or they will not
last too long.
Get another foam box and remove the rocks and any decorations out of the tank into
the box, ready to be moved to the next location.
Once the tank is empty it will be easy to remove the fish and place them into their
foam box. Use many large nets to make the job easy, never try to catch the fish with
one small net or you will stress them and yourself out. When you are moving the
boxes with the fish in them you can use a battery-powered air pump to ensure they
dont run out of air during the move. The small price of this pump is worth it to
ensure that you dont lose the fish.
Drain as much of the tank as you can into 20lt hand drums which can be moved.
Remove the substrate using a flat plastic spade and wash it. It is actually best not to
wash the gravel in tap water, but sometimes it is so dirty that this is not possible.
Expect to loose some bacterial capacity in the gravel if you do wash it in tap water.
Page 43
Once there is nothing left in the tank it can be disassembled and moved to the new
location. Dont move it with any gravel in the tank!
Once in the new location you need to ensure that the tank is level in the new spot.
This can be done by checking each leg is securely on the float, checking the empty
tank isnt able to be rocked easily and the surface is level. To check it is level place
1cm of water into the bottom of the tank and measure the water level in each of the
4 corners. If they are not equal then you can place packers in the corners with more
than 1cm of water.
Next add the gravel and fill the tank with the water that you brought to be added from
the old tank. Add the rocks and decorations then place the fish straight into the tank
which at this stage should be at least half full. If possible run all the filters now.
Have a drum next to the tank which you can fill with water, add ager and bacteria
and ensure the temperature, pH and salt level is the same in the drum as the main
tank. Once the water is correct pump it into the tank and refill the drum and repeat
this process until the tank is full and the move is complete.
It is important to overdose water ager when you re-establish the tank and introduce
a bacteria product to reduce the chance of ammonia after the move.
Keep the feeding low for the next 2 weeks, test your water regularly after you move
the tank and do not introduce new fish for the next month.
Page 44
AQUARIUM FURNITURE
Why do you need foam under the tank?
It is most advisable to use styrofoam between the tank and stand to
avoid the tank cracking as a result of any irregularities in the stand.
Can I use aluminium stands, frames or lights?
No, with time it will rust, no matter what it is coated in.
What are the advantages of a hood?

The simple fact is the tank looks smarter and tidier.
What are the disadvantages of a hood?

The fish, corals and especially clams cant be viewed from the top.
The hood can build up a fair amount of heat as a result of the lights being in such a
confined space.
Page 45
HEATERS
Where does the heater go?
A heater sits in the back corner of the aquarium or in the sump.
It must be accessible, though it is best if it is hidden from view e.g. in
the sump or hidden by decorations.
Always place heaters where you can see the operating light even if it is
just a reflection of it.
Use a heater cover if you have large fish or an anemone
How many heaters should you have?

Most people only have one high quality heater though two heaters are safer in case
the one fails. It is always wise to have a spare.
What type of heaters is there?

The standard glass tube heaters with an accurate built-in thermostat and cut off
switch are the best.
There are under gravel heaters that should only be used in freshwater plant tanks.
There are some filters that come with a built-in heater.
Can you fix a heater?

You shouldnt attempt to fix your heater.
If you are having problems, take it straight back to where you bought it from!
Good heaters will fail on the off position, this saves your stick being roasted. This is
an important consideration when buying a heater.
How do you stop the heater from burning inhabitants of the tank e.g. anemones,
slugs, snails and starfish?
If the heater is in the tank it is advisable to get a heater cover. They are plastic with
grooves to release the heat. They are available cheaply at any aquarium store.
Does the cap of the heater need to be out of the water?

Always follow the instructions on the heater pack.
A high quality heater should be safely fully submersible.
If you allow just the top cap out of the water, the O ring may last longer.
Page 46
THERMOMETERS
What type of thermometers can you get?
Only use aquarium safe thermometers.
Some are tubes stuck to the front glass or sump.
Some float in the tank attached to a hydrometer.
Some are a sticker that sticks on the front glass of the tank (I avoid
these because they take the outside glass temperature not the
tank water temperature).
There are electric thermometers that run a probe into the water.
Mercury thermometers are more effective but are toxic if broken.
What happens if the thermometer breaks in the tank?

If it is an aquarium thermometer you are safe and it shouldnt be a problem, you may
just have to siphon off any mess.
Page 47
CO2 INJECTION SYSTEMS

Is a CO2 injection system needed for my tank?
They cost a lot of money for minimal benefit.
CO2 should be kept at about 3-4mg per litre (in the day).
Want is the advantages of a CO2 injection system?

CO2 injection systems have been successfully used in reef tanks in the past.
CO2 systems help to create a lush green look if you wish to grow lots of algaes and
seaweed.
It will enhance the growth of all photosynthetic organisms.
They are great for pH control if you are using automatic systems and calcium
reactors.
Want is the disadvantages of a CO2 injection system?

They are very expensive for the advantages they offer.
CO2 can cause the tank to flood with algae.
You must have a pH probe because of the effects the CO2 will have on the pH.
The higher the CO2, the lower the hardness of the tank.
Page 48
WATER PUMPS
How many water pumps should I have?
Always maintain more than one pump in your system because if
it fails to function correctly for any period of time you will have no
back up, which is too risky.
Ensure that you use good quality pumps because if your pump
malfunctions it could release electricity or oil into the tank.
Dont throw out old pumps, if it is possible you may be able to
use the parts later on.
Having a battery-operated pump on hand can be a great idea in the event of a power
failure. This may save your tank.
Ensure all pumps are installed where they can be easily serviced.
Can you fix a broken water pump?

Yes, most problems are small and fixable plus most parts are replaceable.
If you run into any problems just take it to a knowledgeable dealer who should have
no problem fixing it or ordering in the parts.
Can you run a water pump dry?

No it is not advisable, most will overheat, so ensure that the pump is always
submersed before you turn it on.
Run powerheads fully submerged to disperse heat.
A good pump should have an automatic cut-off switch so if the pump heats up
because it is running dry it will switch off.
A float switch will cut off the pump if the water runs dry some will even reactivate it
once the water returns.
What problems can water pumps cause?

Be wary of the temperature released by a submersible pump because in summer it
may cause a problem. Fan cold pumps are better than water-cooled pumps.
There have been inconclusive studies to find what damage a pump can do to the
organisms in the water e.g. killing plankton.
Page 49
AIR PUMPS
Can you fix a broken air pump?
Yes a lot of the time you can, there are many parts that are easily
replaceable in an air pump such as diaphragms, flappers and air
filters. Most of the time if an air pump loses power it is because
the diaphragm has split, the flappers are old, the air filter is
clogged or the coil has blown.
If you are not able to make these simple replacements, take it to your local aquarium
shop which should be able to do it for you very cheaply.
If the coil has blown the pump has had it.
It is advisable to have a spare air pump.
Where should you place the air pump?

The pump should be placed above the water level of the tank.
If the pump is kept under the water level of the tank ensure that you use a check
valve to stop the water back flowing into the pump if the power is switched off (Most
people tend to keep their pumps in the aquarium cabinet).
Keep it away from water.
What problems can air pumps cause?

The cheaper brands can be noisy.
Some airstones that you connect the air pump to may result in fine air bubbles
clouding the water.
Too much oxygen in the tank can reduce CO2 levels too low to grow various algaes
and corals.
Salt may gather in your airline and block the airflow.
If the air filter is dirty the strength of the pump may be restricted, so it will be less
effective.
Page 50
PLUMBING
What piping should I use?
PVC or flexible piping is the most popular piping.
Can I use clear piping?

Yes though clear piping must be kept in a dark place like a cabinet
to prevent algae building up in the pipe and clogging it.
Clear piping looks ugly but it enables you to detect blockages.
Can I use copper piping?

Dont even dream of it.
How should I go about setting up the plumbing?

To ensure high output, minimise the number of 90 degree turns in the plumbing, try
to keep the water flowing as smoothly as possible. Sharp turns in the plumbing
drastically reduce the pumps output (45 degree turns are better than 90 degree
turns).
PVC can leak at the joints and contain harder turns that restrict water flow.
Ensure that the drainpipes that are used as outlets for a system are a lot larger than
the inlet to avoid clogging.
Always use hose clamps on flexible tube and glue (PVC) on hard pipe.
How do you stop flexible pipe from kinking?

Dont use more than you need.
Add elbows to the kinked corners.
Should I use check valves?

Check valves should not be relied on because they are so often unreliable. If the
system requires check valves it isnt a satisfactory design.
Taps should be used to enable you to service pumps - you shouldnt need to use
check valves.
Page 51
WAVE MAKERS
How do you make a wave maker?
Dump buckets can be created to achieve a wave motion. The
way the dump bucket works is a flow of water enters the
bucket, which becomes top heavy and tips over, emptying its
contents into the tank. It is designed to spring back once it has been emptied
because the excess weight that caused it to topple has been expelled and the
weight of the remaining water causes it to become up right once again. Be careful
because the dump bucket is messy and produces salt spray. A tank with a dump
bucket cannot be filled to the top; it must have high sides to stop spillage.
The next best thing is to have a set of internal powerheads in the tank set on timers
to come on and off at various times. This will create counter currents so the flow is
less consistent. It is good to hide the powerheads with rocks so it is out of the direct
line of vision as long as the flow is not restricted. (This constant on and off action
creates a high amount of wear and tear on the pumps though it is worth it).
Some external types of water pumps are fit with flow regulators that can be altered
manually daily to achieve some form of irregularity.
A very simple wave maker is an airline without an air stone it will produce turbulence
resulting in small waves. Airline with no air stone causes salt spray.
What is the advantage of a wave maker?

A wave maker enables you to create more natural flow in the aquarium.
A dump bucket wave maker creates the wavelength and intensity of light penetration
to alter. This will create a pulse effect that is both desirable and natural.
A wave maker can be the make or break for many corals that require inconsistent
flow e.g. goniopora, Xenia.
Page 52
TIDE SIMULATORS
What is the advantage of simulating tides?
Some corals in the wild are exposed to tides so it is
common sense to attempt to try to simulate this in captivity.
It has been said that corals from above the natural tide lines
respond well to this tide action.
Some shallow water corals may rot due to prolonged
saturation and consistency.
It is believed that the exposure to air acts as a cleanser to the corals. That may jolt
the respiration and photosynthesis to be carried out more rapidly while out of water,
which may be seen to flush the coral.
Other people set up this type of system mainly for the corals that stay submerged
because the alteration of water depth will alter the light penetration, which can be
advantageous to some corals.
What are the disadvantages of simulating tides?

While this action may be seen as advantages to some corals it can be fatal to others
so ensure that you research the origin of any species you place above your artificial
tide line.
Depending on your lights, the extra heat and UV exposure may damage the coral.
How do you simulate tides?

The simplest way to simulate a tide is to do a large water change of 25% and not fill
up the tank for a period of time e.g. 6 hours.
Ensure that you have power heads operating under the tide mark to ensure that
adequate aeration is maintained.
If you have halides ensure that full strength lighting is not maintained during this
time. It is wise to raise up the halides to prevent possible harm.
Some people attempt this with the light on and others with the light off.
Another simple way is to have a sump that can additionally hold 25% of the tanks
volume. Set an extra drain hole connected to a tap so if you open the drain hole 25%
of the tank empties in to the extra large sump. The tank circulates via the drain hole,
exposing 25% of the reef out of the water. Once you have completed the simulation,
you can switch off the drain tap which will restore the tank to normal operation.
An easy tide simulator is to have a drain tap set in to your overflow chamber that
drains 20% of the water out of the tank into an aerated and heated drum or tank as a
sump under your tank. When you choose you can open the tap and send the water
into the sump, then when you want the water to return you can pump it back in. This
can be easily achieved automatically with float switches and timers.
Page 53
CHILLERS
Where should you put a chiller?
It is best to place the chiller away from the tank because it gives off
heat.
Mounted on a bracket above the tank is a good idea.
In the next room is an even better idea.
How do you make a chiller?

One way is to get yourself an old freezer, even a bar or car fridge.
Drill two holes in it - an inlet and an outlet hole.
Push some flexible pipe though the inlet hole and twirl it in rings in the freezer
section.
Then return it back through the outlet hole.
Ensure that holes are small enough to be a tight fit around the flexible tube.
It is better if you use fittings to go through the fridge.
It is best if it is run off a small pump coming from and returning to the sump with a
heater in it.
Most fridges have a thermostat of some description, which you should be able to set
at a desirable setting.
The idea is to set the fridge so it does not have to compete with the heater.
If the water gets too cold the heater will come on and overpower the chiller.
To try to cool the tank place the canister filter in a bucket of ice water or place ice in
a bag in the tank or sump, while you search for more permanent temperature control
arrangements.
What are the advantages of a chiller?

You dont have to stress out all summer that the tank will get too hot and cook your
corals and fish.
What are the disadvantages of a chiller?

If it is kept in a cabinet the heat that it releases may heat the sump/aquarium water,
meaning it has to work harder.
They are not cheap.
Homemade jobs may be ugly.
Page 54
PROBES
Where should you place a probe?
Probes should be kept in a position of no light to prevent algae build
up.
In the sump is the best place.
The probe must be easily accessible for cleaning and calibrating.
It should be in a position of moderate flow.
Page 55
DOSING SYSTEMS
What are the ways to dose a tank?
You may add the solution manually e.g. daily or weekly.
You may mount a drip system.
Metering or dosing pumps.
It is safest to only add the amount of solution that the tank can
handle in a week, so in the event of the pump malfunctioning the overdose wont be
any worse than if you added the weekly dose anyhow.
What are the advantages of using a dosing system?

You are able to add supplements safely and evenly to the tank such as calcium,
buffer, trace elements, vitamins and fertilizers etc.
You can add all the supplements you require for the week to the same watered
down solution, so the same dosing system can accommodate all the weekly
supplements you need to add to your system.
What are the disadvantages of using a dosing system?

It will introduce the same quantity of additive regardless of the situation in the tank,
so they must be regularly monitored and adjusted to suit the current demand.
How do you make a drip system?

To make a drip for liquids get a plastic bottle, drill a hole in the cap to push some air
line through, rub some silicone around the join, turn it upside down and pin a small
hole in the bottom of the bottle. The bottle is normally mounted over the sump and if
not, then over the tank. Place your finger over the small hole while you fill the bottle.
Put a tap or clamp on the airline so you can set the drip. Suspend the bottle over
your sump or tank.
Page 56
LIGHTING
How long should I have the light on a fish only tank?
I recommend 8-10 hours a day maximum, though it is not very
important to have your lights on.
What lights do I need for a fish only tank?

In a saltwater fish only tank the light is not important.
How long should I have the light on in a reef tank?

If all is fine in the aquarium allow the light to be on for 10-12 hours.
I recommend if you have any trouble with algae have your lights on for less time, 8-
10 hours a day.
It is better if the lights are on timers to achieve consistency. Try to set them so the
tank is illuminated around the times it is most likely to be viewed.
Some people like to set the actinic lights so they come on before and go off after the
full spectrum lights. This limits stress on the organisms and imitates the sun rising
and setting, plus it allows more time for the corals to obtain energy but not the algae.
The tank must have no light at night (there are moon tubes that imitate the moons
light, these can be use to achieve mass spawning).
It is not really true that weaker lights should be kept on for longer periods of time to
achieve more of an effect due to increased photosynthetic time.
What lights do I need for a reef tank?

The lights you get will govern what you will have success keeping. For example
Sponge coral dont need light but some stony corals need a lot of light. You will soon
learn what works in your tank.
To create any display the minimum light I will recommend is 1 high intensity, full
spectrum tube and 1 actinic tube.
In most situations the more light the better because the photosynthetic coral will be
able to use more energy.
The more actinic lights you have in the tank, the fewer problems you tend to have
with algae.
Be careful the heat generated from the light shade does not affect the temperature
of the tank too much. If you have more than one tube I strongly suggest you have a
double light shade with remote ballast. This will keep most of the heat off the top of
the aquarium. You can nail the ballast to the inside of the back leg of the stand.
Mercury vapour lamps are better than fluorescent tubes because they generate less
radiation, though they lack blue spectrum so they should be run with actinics as well.
Metal Halide lights seem to give the best results for a reef tank.
Page 57
Metal Halide lights over 10000k dont have to have an actinic, although it is better if
you do.
Metal Halides must have a radiation filter to minimise harm to you and your tank.
The light that grows stony corals the best seems to be 10000K Metal halide. (Some
halide can have a hum).
The 03 actinic are better than the 05 actinic.
Black light shades absorb light and should be avoided. White or sliver is better.
Ligher watts = higher lumens = higher lux.
If you wish to find out the lux of you tank a lux meters can be rented from a camera
shop.
Most corals and desirable algae require over 10000lux.
How often should you replace your light tubes?

The common aquarium tubes (or fish only tanks) needs to be replaced every 6
months.
he high intensity full spectrum tubes need to be replaced at least every 2 years (you
are better of replacing it more regularly e.g. once a year even better every six
months).
Actinic tubes need to be replaced every 9 months.
It is a good idea to write the date you got the tube in your logbook or on the tube so
you dont forget when it needs replacing.
Metal halides should be replaced every year.
Mercury vapour globes need to be replaced every six months.
Do you need a light?

Fish and some corals dont need light to survive though most corals and plants do.
Why do some corals require light?

Some corals require light to survive because the symbiotic algae within the coral
require light to photosynthesize. The photosynthesizing symbiotic algae are what
provide the coral with its nutrients and oxygen.
How long should you run your lights for?

For a reef tank the total duration of light should be between 10 to 12 hours a day.
For a fish only tank it is not really important.
Page 58
How should you turn the lights on?

It is best if the lights are on timers for a reef tank.
The tank should not go from complete darkness to intense light because of possible
stress to the inhabitants.
Ensure the room light is on before the aquarium light is to be switched on, this
should minimise stress. Switch off the tank light before the room light to allow them
to get used to the dark.
It is advisable to set the timers so that the actinic tube comes on a half-hour before
and a half-hour after the full spectrum lights. This is to imitate dawn and dusk effect.
If you have several rows of lights try and make it so that they come on and go off
one row at a time.
What types of lights are available?

The best are Metal halides then Fluorescent tubes. Mercury vapour lights can
release excess UV radiation and are too yellow in colour, though they are good for
plant growth. Sodium vapour lights can release excess UV radiation and are too
yellow in colour. HQI metal halides- are the best as they have more blue spectrum
and give off a more natural and better light in regards to growing corals or a reef
tank. HQI-NDL is fine for most corals but the fish may appear off colour. Tungsten
lamps are no good- they get hot, have a short life, an incorrect spectrum and are too
yellow in colour.
How high should a Metal halide be from the water surface?

It should be about 10 to 12 inches off the water surface because they get so hot.
If the tank doesnt have trouble with heat the light can be closer as long as there are
no corals right at the top of the tank that may be affected by the temperature or UV.
Metal halides dont seem to actually burn the corals under any normal
circumstances.
If the tank is overheating the light may have to be raised or extra air circulation
provided.
Try to avoid the metal halide getting too close to your tanks centre brace because I
have heard of them cracking if they arent made out of tempered glass.
How many Metal halides do I need?

On average 1 per 2ft x 2ft of surface area (if using 150w, 10000K). It depends in the
size used.
How long should metal halides be on per day?

They should be on for about 10 hours a day.
Page 59
If you have fluorescent tubes have them on for about an hour in the morning before
the halide comes on and for about an hour after the halide goes off.
What size Metal halide should I use?

Metal halides are commonly available from 75 to 400 watts, even 1000w.
75w is for under 18 inch high tanks.
150w is the most popular size, because these are best suited for 24-inch high
aquariums.
You should try to use 400w if your tank is 3ft high.
Remember that the stronger the light you use, the more trace elements like calcium
must be added to the water because they are used up be the coral quicker.
Can I use only Metal halide or do I need to have actinic tubes as well?
No, a metal halide is able to maintain corals on its own if it is 150w or over.
Metal halides are superior to actinic tubes for coral growth.
But it is better if you do provide additional actinic lighting.
Can you use H.O. or V.H.O. tubes?

Yes, you can but they require special ballast.
HO tubes last longer than VHO.
Where should you place the light ballast?

Keep it where heat build up wont be a problem.
Dont let it get wet.
It is often drilled to the inside of the back leg of the tank.
Dont put it under the hood.
How do you minimize UV radiation?

Plexiglass will filter some of the UV radiation.
Can you rely on direct sunlight to grow coral?

This isnt advisable because sunlight is unpredictable and seasonable.
From one season to the next it is unlikely that the tank will receive even exposure to
light.
Page 60
The main issue is that the water will normally be heated up too high as a result of the
direct sunlight. So a large chiller would be required which would outweigh the price
of the extra lighting anyhow.
What is the blue light?

It is an actinic (see glossary).
To grow corals are blue or white lights better?

In general the more blue light you are able to offer, the better.
The deeper the water that coral comes from, the more important the blue is because
that is the only colour spectrum that is able to penetrate through any depths.
Are 50/50 light tubes any good?

The only time I recommend a 50/50 tube is when you want coral but you can only
have one tube.
If having two tubes is not an option then a 50/50 is ok as long as you replace it every
9months.
Remember the 50/50 has half intensity full spectrum and half-actinic, so it is
obviously not as powerful as a tube each and maintaining particular corals is harder.
How do you create the ripple effect?

Spotlights set on an angle down from the top create a natural ripple effect.
What are colour wavelengths?

Violet 400-420nm
Blue 420-490nm
Green 490-560nm
Yellow 560-590nm
Orange590-630nm
Red over 780nm
Page 61
MECHANICAL FILTRATION
What are the advantages of mechanical filtration?
It can remove particles before they need to be biologically broken
down.
They can be used as a pre-filter to stop other filters from clogging
up.
What are the disadvantages of mechanical filtration?

If they are not cleaned regularly they will turn into a biological filter.
The media may need regular replacement.
Mechanical filtration must be replaced or cleaned with tap water regularly or bacteria
will grow in the mechanical filter and will be stripped out when cleaned. Water
contacts the mechanical filter before it gets to the main biological filter so it often
grows bacteria quicker. This situation may possibly leave the tank with a depleted
bacterial capacity. Ensure that the filters are easy to clean or you will delay doing so.
Page 62
SURFACE SKIMMING
How does a surface skimmer work?
It takes the water off the top of the tank by siphoning the water
from the top.
What type of surface skimmers are available?

The best way is to use an overflowing chamber.
A hole can be drilled at the top of the tank that can be used as a surface skimmer.
There are some hopeless tube-based siphon types of surface skimmers available
that are renowned for leaking onto the floor. Stick to overflow chambers.
What are the advantages of surface skimming?

Surface skimming help to prevent particles, dust, debris and gas from settling on the
surface, which will hamper oxygen defusing and light penetration.
It is important to have a surface skimmer in a reef with an open top (for halides) or
dust may accumulate quickly because it has no lids.
Will remove fatty acids that can build up on the water surface.
What are the disadvantages of a surface skimmer?

A lot of CO2 is lost.
It can be noisy if the pump is too powerful.
Any floating food can go over it.
It is not well designed it may leak on to the floor.
Be wary if you are feeding floating food to a tank with a surface skimmer. If the food
is going over the edge, feed less food at a time so the fish are able to consume it, or
presoak the food so it will sink.
Page 63
OVERFLOW CHAMBERS
What are the advantages of installing an overflow chamber?
An advantage with an overflow chamber is it acts as a surface
skimmer.
An overflow chamber allows you to safely run an extra sump
or trickle filter without the fear of your whole tank getting
drained.
It allows you room for an extra pre-filter.
What are the disadvantages of installing an overflow chamber?

A lot of CO2 is lost.
It can be noisy if the pump is too powerful.
Any floating food can go over it.
They can be hard to clean.
Animals can get stuck down them.
How do I make my overflow chamber more quiet?

The first thing I will recommend is to run your finger along the inside of the chamber.
This is to direct the water straight down the wall, instead of allowing it to simply
plummet off the top into the water at the bottom of the chamber.
Place a mesh over the grate at the top of the chamber. This is also to prevent the
water plummeting off the top into the water at the bottom of the chamber. The way
this works is it banks up the water on the mesh and redirects it down the side of the
wall in the chamber. Be careful not to have the mesh to the very top of the tank
because if it gets dirty it may overflow the sides of the tank.
Another way is to add an extra layer of coarse mesh around the stem pipe to break
the fall of the incoming water and therefore dampen the sound.
Page 64
PRE-FILTERS
How often should it be cleaned?
The more regularly the better.
Most should be cleaned at least once a week.
Ensure that the filters are easy to clean or you will delay doing so.
What are the advantages of a pre-filter?

They remove suspended particles before they decompose, therefore minimising the
bio-load.
They are cheap and easily obtained. Synthetic filter wool or foam is generally used.
What are the disadvantages of a pre-filter?

They must be cleaned regularly, at least once a week though the more the better.
If they are not cleaned regularly they will not serve their purpose as a mechanical
filter and will instead turn into a biological filter.
It runs the tanks volume regularly over the collected debris.
It pulls out particles that may have been consumed by filter feeders.
Page 65
INTERNAL CANISTER FILTERS

How does an internal canister filter work?
A canister filter holds filter media that it circulates the water
through.
What medium should I put in my internal canister filter?

They are mainly run with a mechanical media such as filter or sponge.
What are the advantages of internal canister filters?

They can be used to produce extra circulation in a tank that has already got
adequate filtration.
They can be used instead of straight powerheads so you have extra mechanical
filtration.
What are the disadvantages of internal canister filters?

They look ugly in the tank.
They can be time-consuming to clean.
Cheap brands can generate mild heat.
Page 66
REVERSE OSMOSIS
How does a reverse osmosis system work?
It filters compounds from the water by forcing them though a
mechanical filter, some activated carbon and an ultra-fine
membrane.
It is used for fresh water that is to be mixed into salt water for
water changes or as top up water that should be mixed with a
buffer.

It depends on the brand and the amount of use it gets.
What are the advantages of reverse osmosis?

It lowers the amount of nutrients that are able to enter the aquarium e.g. NO3, PO4
and silicates.
It removes 95% of the dissolved solids in tap water, like harmful metals such as
copper, iron brass and chlorine.
What are the disadvantages of reverse osmosis?

It can also remove useful substances e.g. calcium.
The membrane, activated carbon and the mechanical filter in the R.O unit must be
changed regularly.
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OZONE
How do you run ozone?
Ozone is most commonly added to the air that enters the
protein skimmer.
Special ozone reactors are available.
Ozonizers should be run with an air filter and air dryer
because any particles or moisture in the air will reduce the
effect of the ozone.
An ozone reactor is better than adding ozone to the skimmer because the skimmer
can then be left to provide its desired service as well. The ozone reactor is the same
as an oxygen reactor is just that you add ozone to one and oxygen to the other.
The outlet of an ozone reactor must go through carbon before it is returned to the
tank to reduce the chance of ozone getting into the tank.
Any tubing, reactor, skimmer or plastic that the ozone is in contact with must be able
to handle ozone.
How do you stop the smell of ozone?

If you smell ozone in the air you will have to add carbon to the top of the skimmer.
There are various caps available that connect to the top of skimmers to ensure that
the air goes through carbon before it is released.
How much ozone should you use?

The normal dose rate is about 10 mg per hour.
If you are just trying to increase the productivity of the skimmer you may run as low
as 2 mg per hour.
Enough to reach 350 mv redox is good.
The aim of the quantity of ozone is to equal the amount needed to the amount of
organics in the tank. Various things lower the redox potential of the tank e.g. the
presence of organics and the lower the redox, the more ozone needs to be added.
This is why redox potential control is so handy to ensure you arent just
administering ozone at random. If you administer ozone to a tank without organics to
target, it may escape into the aquarium which is dangerous.
How do you know if you are running too much ozone?

The skimmer will have less foam output.
The skimmer foam will be lighter.
The nitrate level may increase.
Redox potential meters helps avoid too much ozone being added to the tank. Over
600 mv will end up being toxic.
Page 68
Ozone test kits can be used to detect if any ozone has made its way into the tank.
You can use a residual ozone test kit. Start off with the ozonizer on a low setting.
Test the residual ozone in the water so when you decide it is safe to add more
ozone, increase the amount minimally and repeat this until a tiny portion has been
located after which you will have to turn it down a bit and leave it for a while. While
you are setting it, test it every few hours. The ozone must be tested regularly (at
least twice a week) and the more it is tester, the safer.
How regularly should it be used?

It is best if it is only run for a few days a month.
It can be used in the presence of algae growth or fish disease e.g. parasites.
Can be run after new stock has been added to the tank.
What are the advantages of ozone?

Ozone can reduce organic molecules without producing harmful by- products like
bacteria does.
Good for controlling parasites such as white spot.
What are the disadvantages of ozone?

It releases a smell.
Ozone levels must be constantly monitored.
An expensive redox controller should be used for safety.
Ozone is extremely toxic and must not be allowed to enter the tank.
It produces toxic by-products such as hypochlorite and hypobromite. (Delbeek and
Sprung)
Ozone is toxic to humans.
Can cause high nitrate.
The air that enters the ozonizer must be completely dry, so you may need special
air-drying filters that are available.
Ozone reactors are more effective but can be expensive.
Most ozonizers seem to regularly break down.
Page 69
WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR FILTER HAS BEEN OFF?

You must be very careful if your filter has been off for over 24
hours! Dry media If your media has become dry as a result of
the filter being off it is likely that you have damaged your
bacteria. This may result in increased levels of organic waste in
the tank once you start the filter back up. Over the coming week
this can be fatal to your fish! Wet media If your media is sitting
under water in a filter which is turned off the water may quickly
become toxic. The good bacteria in the filter will use the oxygen
present in the filter and anoxic bacteria will soon form in this
area void of oxygen, which will produce toxic hydrogen sulphide gas that will be pumped
into the tank once the filter is turned on again. If you suspect hydrogen sulphide maybe
present in your stagnant filter it is important to flush it out using water from the fish tank.
If it is a canister this can easily be done by placing the inlet into the tank and siphoning
the water via the outlet into a bucket or drain. It is advisable to back flush it as well if
that is possible. If it is a sump flush the media in a bucket of water from the tank. Once
your filter is back on:
Make sure you keep the feeding low for the next couple of weeks after the filter is back
on and only feed low waste food such as New Life Spectrum.
Make sure you have fresh Polyfilter in the system to remove toxins that may occur at
this time.
Be sure to add a bacteria solution to enhance the colonies.
Add a 5 times dose of Prime and/or Easylife daily to detoxify any present organic waste.
If you have damaged your bacteria then review to ensure that you are using the best bio
media. Make sure that you have Marine Pure Biomedia.
Get your water tested regularly for pH, kH, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate.
Page 70
POLYFILTER
As mentioned previously all Poly-Filters sold for usage in fresh or saltwater aquaria are
preconditioned in synthetic saltwater ( Marine Enterprises, Crystal Sea, Bio
AssayFormula) twice then rinsed in highly filtered de ionized water. We do this
procedure for extraction ( of any residual monomers or copolymers ) and to add trace
elements into Poly-Filter. All synthetic marine salt contains iron, in a 0.25 mg/L
concentration, bound into the sodium chloride. All sodium chloride, producers list iron as
the major impurity at 0.25 mg/L concentration. This iron is bound into the sodium
chloride and cannot be detected using aquarium colorimetric test kits, instead either
atomic absorption or Inductively coupled plasma lab testing is required. As such each
Poly-Filter (R) contains 0.25 mg/L concentration of iron in its polymer structure.
Freshwater aquarists use plant fertilizer , in most cases, because they believe it is
required without testing for : nitrogen, phosphorus, sulfur, calcium, magnesium
,potassium the major plant nutrients. Certainly every freshwater aquarium has an
abundance of nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium. Potassium and sulphur
may require occasional supplementation. The micro nutrients: boron, cobalt, copper,
manganese, molybdenum, zinc and iron are found in normal tap water. Certainly the
concentration added into Poly-Filter (R) from synthetic saltwater is higher than most
aquatic plant supplement would contain. The result is Poly-Filter (R) would not adsorb
the lower concentration of trace elements. If Poly-Filter (R) was adsorbing a iron
concentration above 0.25 mg/L it would turn orange- red in colour. A simple
confirmation of the colour being iron is to take a orange - red Poly-Filter (R) and soak it
in a 3 - 5 % solution of Hydrochloric acid . The acid will elute out the adsorbed iron and
the Poly-Filter (R) will turn back into white.
Most well planted freshwater aquaria require very limited plant fertilizer
supplementation. This is unless the aquarist wishes a extremely dense plant growth
which requires metal halide lighting and CO 2 gas injection. Under these extreme
cases iron and other trace elements may be required. However adding liquid plant
fertilizer with iron is wasteful because aquatic plants cannot absorb nutrients through
their stems or leaves. Aquatic plants have sealed stems and leaves and only absorb
nutrients through the root system. The iron , trace elements must be adsorbed into the
gravel then absorbed by plant roots.
If iron is required we recommend using laterite clay, gravel for plants - it actually puts
the iron into the gravel near plant roots. If freshwater aquarists use tapwater or filtered
tapwater instead of R/O water ----- they do not need plant fertilizers it is redundant !
The tapwater and biological nitrification provides the nutrients for aquatic plants.
As a point of information : Before reef aquaria and R/O filtration aquatic plants didn`t
require fertilizer supplementation. But after reef tanks started the pet manufacturers
selling macro algae supplements for reef aquaria started telling everyone plants need
supplements. Since today most coral tanks have limited micro, macro algae and SPS
coral tanks have zero macro algae growth the algal supplements have migrated over
into freshwater planted aquaria.
Again these supplements were never designed for aquatic plants with root systems
instead they were designed for macro algae which can absorb these supplements
directly out of the water.
Page 71
UV STERILIZERS
How does a UV sterilizer work?
It works by passing water by UV light, which has a
wavelength in the UV-C range.
How is it installed?
It is run off a small pump from your tank or sump.
UV sterilizers must have a prefilter of some description to minimise the chance of it
clogging.
Water should pass though a UV sterilizer 2 times an hour.
How often should it be run?

I suggest you only run it if you need it e.g. in the presence of algae or white spot
breakouts.
It is good to run the sterilizer for a week or two after you get new fish.
If the fish are scratching, stressed or sick.
It can be good to run the sterilizer 2-3 days a month, while all is fine.
How often must you replace the globe?

It is best to follow the manufacturer`s directions.
Most globes last 18 months.
Never look at the UV light as it is dangerous to do so.
What are the advantages of UV sterilizers?

It sterilizes the water by killing everything that goes through it.
Great to get rid of parasites (white spot), bacteria or floating algae.
What are the disadvantages of UV sterilizers?

Will kill useful organisms as well.
May heat the water.
They are more effective at higher temperatures (up to 40C).
Page 72
SETTLING FILTERS
How does a settling filter work?
Water flows moderately to slowly across the top of the filter
allowing the heavier particles to fall into grooves in the bottom,
which trap the debris out of the main water flow.
Are they an effective means of filtration?

Yes, they are an effective form of filtration.
How often should they be cleaned?

The more regularly they are cleaned the better though normally at least once a
week.
What are the advantages of settling filtration?

Unlike other mechanical filtration it doesnt force the volume of the water directly
through the debris it has collected. This pressure often causes the debris to
breakdown and release its organics into the water.
This filter collects waste in grooves in the bottom which have quite calm water so the
debris wont be disturbed till you clean it.
There is no replacement material.
Will add to the total water volume of the system.
They are uncomplicated.
What are the disadvantages of settling filtration?

They tend to be big and the larger, the better.
They should be serviced regularly.
The inlet is normally feed by an overflow chamber (which often has a pre-filter) that
takes water from the surface, which is the last place you normally find heavy particulate
matter.
Page 73
UNDER-GRAVEL FILTERS IN SALTWATER

How does an under-gravel filter work?
Works by moving the water though the substrate.
Set up with a plate or a set of conduit pipes under the substrate
that are connected to vertical uplift pipes. On the top of the uplift
pipes you can place a power head, to draw the water through
the substrate into the uplift pipes. (It is more commonly done with an airline placed at
the bottom of the uplift pipe with does the same job only slower).
Aerobic-bacteria forms in the gravel to break down the waste.
Quite an effective biological filter if it is cleaned regularly with a vacuum siphon to
remove debris.
If under-gravel uplifts are too big cut them down so they are fully under the water to
avoid head height which will minimise flow rate.
Are they an effective means of filtration?

I rarely recommend under gravel systems for salt-water tanks and reef tanks
because if the substrate is not cleaned regularly you can build up debris and a toxic
anaerobic-zone.
Cleaning them is way too distributive on the ecosystem for you to try to establish
such a delicate arrangement such as a living reef.
I personally would not even contemplate running an under-gravel filter on any
saltwater tank.
If you start out with a simple set up such as this keep the stocks very minimal and
ensure they are appropriate.
Power heads are a lot better and quieter than air uplifts to run an under-gravel, and
they also reduce salt spray.
Reverse-flow under-gravel filters are better than the standard down flow, because
the debris isnt forced into the substrate.
Reverse-flow under-gravel filters should be run though a canister filter for
mechanical filtration. The canister pushes the water though the substrate and the
inlet of the canister gathers the debris that is forced into the tank. You may have to
run one of the uplifts with a power head and one with the canister outlet, though it is
better to run both with power heads and allow more movement with the canister
filter.
How much substrate should you have over an under-gravel filter?

For a tank with an under-gravel filter 5-6 cm of gravel is needed to house the
bacteria.
The easiest way to clean the substrate is with a vacuum siphon.
Page 74
Is the conduit or the plate under-gravel filter better?

I dont think there is much difference though the conduit seem to have a more
distributed concentrated flow because the pipes have limited slits across them that
seem to be unable to build up more pressure. The plate form seem to accumulate
most of the debris around the back of the area near the up lift pipes.

It is important to service it regularly to avoid the accumulation of debris and
anaerobic zones.
What are the advantages of under-gravel filtration?

They are inexpensive.
What are the disadvantages of under-gravel filtration?

They are very high maintenance.
They can accumulate dangerous toxic anaerobic zones if not maintained properly.
Tanks run with them seem to maintain high nitrate and phosphate levels.
They collect debris in the tank.
The nitrification that occurs releases nitric acid, which will lower the pH and
hardness.
Page 75
EXTERNAL CANISTER FILTERS

How does an external canister filter work?
An external canister filter holds filter media that it circulates the
water through.
What medium should I use to set up my canister filter

biologically?
The way to set up a canister filter biologically is to have a medium
with the smaller surface area at the bottom, such as ceramic noodles (so it does not
clog up so easily).
Next you can put in a plastic mesh as a pre-filter to extract the smaller debris before
it hits the main biological medium which should have a very large surface area such
as bio-balls or filter substrate.
On the top put some cotton wool to mechanically remove the fine debris.
What medium should I use to set up my canister filter mechanically?

I tend to set it up the same as if it was biological.
The difference is that to keep the filter mechanical it must be cleaned out more
regularly under tap water e.g. once every week. The tap water kills the bacteria so
the media will be used to trap debris not break down waste.
Where should the chemical media be placed in an external canister filter?

I run mechanical media at the top of the canister so it is somewhat free of debris.
How often should you clean it out?

If it is set up biologically its advisable to clean it out about once a month.
If it is mainly mechanical then the more regularly you clean it out, the better.
Check that the pipes are clean or you will experience lower water flow.
If you find the pump isnt as strong then it is important to clean out the filter and
pipes.
How do you fill the canister with water?

Place the inlet in position under the water and suck on the outlet so the siphon starts
to fill the canister.
As this is happening put the outlet in position in the tank to be turned on.
Turn on the filter and rock it gently to expel any air bubbles.
Page 76
What is the grate for?

If it is an older filter, ensure the grate is placed at the bottom of the canister legs
down to disperse the water through the bottom of the canister.
The grate at the top of the canister must be legs up to stop the impeller from
clogging.
Are bio-balls good for canister filters?

Yes, some bio-balls are designed to work in submersed environments such as a
canister filter but most are for trickle filters and are unsuitable.
The difference between the two is the ratio of surface area to void space. The
external bio-balls are hardly effective in a canister filter because they dont have
enough surface area.
Why are there tiny air bubbles spraying out of the outlet pipe?
When the filter has just been installed after cleaning it is natural for air bubbles to be
expelled for a period of time. This is the air that is caught in the top of the canister
because they often have a protruding propeller.
If the O-ring isnt on correctly this will occur.
Small bubbles in the outflow are often caused by the pumps input being somehow
restricted.
Check that the inlet isnt near an airstone.
What are the advantages of external canister filters?

They are versatile because they can be set up with biological, mechanical or
chemical filter media.
They can pick up debris from the bottom of the tank.
They can hold a lot of media.
What are the disadvantages of external canister filters?

They can be time-consuming to clean.
Page 77
ALGAE BED FILTERS

How does an algae bed filter work?
Algae are grown in them, alga feeds on nutrients and
therefore helps to reduce the levels of organic waste in
the tank.
Algae are able to store huge amounts of nutrients, so
when you strip the algae out of the system all of the
nutrients go with it.
Algae have a large surface area on which bacteria grow that break down high level
waste.
How do you set up an algae bed filter?

It is simply a tray that the water is run across, directly under a powerful light.
They are best if the water is fed into the tray by a dump bucket, so the algae
experiences a wave motion that exposes both sides of the algae to the light.
It must have a pre-filter and a post-filter.
When should it be run?

It should be run all day though the lights should be run at night.
What does the algae grow on?

The tray should be made of egg crate covered by a fine plastic mesh.
How long do you run the light over an algae bed filter?
The lights should be set on timers for about 12-14 hours a day.
What does the algae pull from the water?

Organic waste such as ammonia, nitrate and phosphate even heavy metals.
How do you know if the trace elements have been depleted in the tank as a result
of the algae bed filter?
It is not common for it to be a problem, if the aquarium is given regular trace
elements. After all, the environment that you are trying to recreate is depleted of
trace elements anyhow.
Trace elements can be tested.
The corals can be visually monitored, if you see they are bleaching or are not in
generally good health you may end up concluding that the tank is lacking trace
Page 78
elements. If this is the case you may wish to add more regular trace elements or cut
down the amount of light over the filter.
What should you do with the algae that you collect when cleaning it?
If you are concerned that the trace elements in your tank have been savagely
depleted because of the algae bed filter, you can simply feed some of the algae you
have collected to your algae eating fish. This is both good for the fish and will aid in
the replacement of trace elements to the aquarium.
This algae makes a good fertilizer for your garden.

Regular is better. It has to be cleaned as the algae mounts up and starts heavily
overlapping each over.
Why should you use a dump bucket on the algae bed filter?
The dump bucket generates a surge that stimulates the alga growth by pushing the
alga from side to side enabling photosynthesis to occur on both sides of the alga and
avoids alga shadowing each other.
It also aids in gas exchange.
Should algae bed filters be used on reef tanks?

There has been a level of success created by this system, but it is not high on my
recommendation list.
The algae compete for nutrients with the coral; the evidence seems to show that the
coral growth in tanks run on these systems alone are not as high as that of other
systems.
The algae are able to release toxins that can negatively affect inverts and fish.
Algae bed filters seem more effective for reef tanks if a protein skimmer is being run
as well.
Tanks using algae bed filters should be feed regular trace elements to improve coral
growth.
What are the advantages of an alga bed filter?

The alga in the filter competes with the algae in the tank, and therefore minimises it.
The alga strips out the nutrients in the tank, making the tank low in nutrients and
therefore like the ocean.
It can aid in pH and oxygen stabilisation if it is run at night, while the tank lights are
run during the day.
Page 79
What are the disadvantages of an algae bed filter?

Be wary of temperature in the aquarium because the extra lighting can raise the
temperature of the tank.
There have been studies that have concluded that because the algae in the algae
bed filters compete for nutrients with the life in the tank it can hamper the growth of
the corals e.g. stony corals.
Some algae can release toxic compounds into the water that may affect the fish and
inhibit the growth of corals (A protein skimmer or activated carbon should fix this).
The algae can give the tank a yellow tinge. (A protein skimmer or activated carbon
should fix this).
Algae systems have been known to crash, meaning all the algae die due to disease,
changes in chemistry or temperature, faded lighting etc.
A large amount of pH instability from night to day if it is run during the day.
Algae filters can be large, messy and ugly.
Page 80
DENITRIFICATION FILTERS
How can you start a denitrification filter?
Slowly populating the tank with live rock.
Lactose can be added to the tank, 1 teaspoon per week.
It is advisable to monitor your redox.
What should the water turnover of a denitrification filter be?

Less than 50 litres per hour.

Never.
What are the advantages of denitrification filters?

Denitrification increases buffering capacity.
They are able to break down nitrate.
What are the disadvantages of denitrification filters?

They create very low oxygen levels (So it is advisable to have lots of water
movement in the tank and even run airstones. If it is an external filter it is good to
have the return pipe set so it breaks the water surface as it returns to the tank).
They take time to establish because denitrification is much slower than nitrification.
Incomplete denitrification can produce ammonium and nitrite, though this is rarely a
problem in an established tank because it is straight away converted back via
nitrification.
Page 81
NATURAL FILTRATION
How do natural systems work?
Live rock or live sand carries out the filtration.
These systems use no external biological filters.
These systems require very little water changes, from none
to 5% a month.
The live sand is infested with a multitude of living organisms that have a positive
effect on the aquarium.
The secret to the natural system is that the nitrification and denitrification processes
occur side by side.
Natural systems work because the principle is that anything that is wasted from one
organism is food for another.
Protein skimmers can become very important to a natural system because they
increase the amount of oxygen, which is lost, by the large amount of decay that
occurs if you have opted for this style of filtration.
How long after adding live rock can you add fish?
The longer you wait the better.
3-4 weeks should be the minimum.
How do you set a Dr Lee Chun Eugs system?

This is the original natural system.
Natural sun light plus fluorescent tubes are used for lighting.
Vigorous aeration with airlines without airstones, so the bubbles are larger for
turbulence, creating small waves.
Live rock and 3-5cm of coral sand is the filtration.
How do you set up a Berlin system?

Actinic lighting and Metal Halides.
A calcium reactor.
Activated carbon.
A sump.
Protein skimmer.
Trace elements and calcium are to be added.
Page 82
How do you set Dr Adeys system?

Algae bed filter.
Live rock and 3-5cm of coral sand.
A dump bucket wave maker on the tank and one for the filter.
Page 83
THE JAUBERT SYSTEM

How do you set a Jaubert system?
This system is characterised by a void (plenum) of water
that lies under the first layer of sand. This void should be
between 1-3 inches thick.
On top of the void you place a piece of grate material
covered in a screen. The grate is for the strength; the screen
is to stop the substrate falling into the plenum.
Next you place about 2 inches of coral sand.
On top of that place another screen to stop fish digging through.
Next place another 2-inch layer of coral sand that the fish can dig in.
Airstones and water pumps are used for aeration.
What is the use for the void space (plenum) in a Jauberts system?
The reason for this is for the even distribution of oxygen. Oxygen is able to
horizontally diffuse effectively in the plenum of water under the substrate, more so
than it could though the substrate alone.
The varying redox levels created by the plenum enable the formation of anoxic
bacteria.
How do you construct the plenum?

The most common thing to do is to tie some short pieces of conduit pipe to the grate
with cable ties or fishing line. The diameter of the conduit pipe will determine the size
of the plenum. It is best to drill holes in the pipe to allow diffusion more readily.
Cut the screen so it is 3cm short of each wall of the tank.
Lay the screen so it reaches the sides of the tank, therefore covering the sides of the
screen. This gives you a layer of gravel around the plenum because the bacteria
function better in a dark environment. The screen must be arranged so the sand isnt
able to slip into the plenum even under pressure.
How high should the plenum be?

For smaller tanks 400lts or less it should be about 1-2inches high
For larger tanks it should be up to 3inches.
What size should the substrate be?

It should be about 2mm in diameter (too large to fit through the screen but not large
enough to gather debris).
Page 84
Should I have up lift pipes connecting the plenum to the tanks main water supply
to expel toxic gas?
No, this is not a good idea because the pipes will ruin the zones of oxygen that the
plenum relies on to form the anoxic bacteria.
Why have drainage plugs at the bottom of the Jaubert system?

This is to rid possible accumulated hydrogen sulfate.
If the sand bed filter is not functioning correctly and is running with an oxygen level
that is too low, hydrogen sulfate may build up.
The drain at the bottom allows you to carry out small water changes by extracting
the water through the drain plug under the sand.
This is believed to be the most effective and low risk way of ridding the system of
hydrogen sulfide.
If the tap is opened the flow must be extremely slow to minimize the disturbance of
the oxygen zones.
Be careful if you use this idea because the use of this method is likely to ruin the
oxygen zones that this system depends on.
This is all to cover up a badly designed system which is all unnecessary in a well-
designed tank.
Page 85
LIVE SAND
How do you make live sand filters?
To make live sand you place live rock in the tank so the
microorganisms are able to migrate down and colonise in it.
Another thing that people try if they live near the ocean is to place a stocking
containing coral sand into the ocean, tied to a rope so it is retrievable. The
microorganisms in the ocean will colonise the sand.
Do this at your own risk in regards to pollutants.
It can be advisable to add the coral sand slowly to ensure that the whole medium is
colonised.
The top layer of sand should be stirred regularly.
Some shops sell live sand.
How does a live sand system work?

The live sand is infested with a multitude of living organisms that have a positive
effect on the aquarium.
The microorganisms consume the debris that lands on the sand.
The aerobic bacteria break down the waste that the microorganisms produce on the
top layers of the sand.
The waste that the aerobic bacteria produce is then broken down by the anoxic
bacteria in the deeper layers of the sand producing nitrogen gas.
The oxygen levels of live sand are of extreme importance. The desired concentration
of oxygen is about 1 mg per litre. The size of the granules and the thickness of the
sand determine the oxygen level of the sand.
They are best if run in conjunction with a protein skimmer.
It is extremely important to ensure the aquarium has adequate water current if you
are to attempt a live sand system, about 10 times the tank volume per hour.

The top layer should be stirred regularly and the lower level should not be disturbed.
When should you add the sand?

It should be added at the same time as the live rock as long as the top is stirred
regularly.
Does the sand need to be replaced?

No the sand should never have to be replaced though it should be replenished if the
level starts to fall.
Page 86
Why does my sand level drop with time?

The sand slowly dissolves as a result of acids being released by the organisms that
inhabit it.
When this occurs simply add some more sand.
What are the advantages of live sand filters?

The live sand system shouldnt clog because no forced pressure is used to pull
debris into the sand.
Chemicals enter by diffusion.
Live sand is able to carry out mineralisation, nitrification and denitrification, so it is
able to cope with all levels of waste.
Cost is a big plus as these are about the cheapest system to run and set up.
Denitrification increases buffering capacity.
Increases trace elements and calcium levels.
It encourages the population of crustaceans like amphipods.
What are the disadvantages of live sand filters?

The success of one aquarium set up with live sand seem to vary with the next
because you are not able control which microorganisms colonise your sand.
Someone should only attempt this type of system as a primary filter if they have
patience, knowledge and time.
I have known people that have had problems with pests e.g. bristle worms eating
their corals, even the silicone out of their tank.
Extremely toxic anaerobic processes can be a problem that can occur with this
system.
If the oxygen level of the sand falls below 0.5 mg per litre it can produce hydrogen
sulfide which is extremely toxic.
If the oxygen level rises to above 1.5 mg per litre denitrification does not occur.
With these systems more than others a large percentage of the water volume is lost
due to the mass of sand.
It can look ugly having such deep sand, especially Jaubert systems. If you are
building you own cabinet ensure that the frame comes at least 10 cm above the
bottom of the tank, so you can see the depth of the gravel.
Page 87
SHOULD I HAVE GRAVEL IN THE BOTTOM

OF MY POND?
Advantageous of a thin layer Gravel 3-5mm in the bottom of
a Pond
Good bacteria will grow in the gravel.
It looks natural
It hides fish waste
Fish can forage in it Disadvantageous of Gravel in a pond
It can be harder to clean
If the gravel bed is too deep anaerobic bacteria can form under the gravel that can
release hydrogen sulphide
If the gravel size is too large the waste will fall through the gravel and rot on the
bottom.
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ACTIVATED CARBON
How does activated carbon work?
Activated carbon filters are used to draw chemicals out of the
water e.g. organic waste.
Activated charcoal works as a chemical filter and draws
waste out of the water due to its porous nature.
It can also be used as an air filter e.g. to take the smell from
the ozone.
Where do you put activated carbon?

It is best if they are placed in a stocking or a carbon bag so they dont spread though
the aquarium.
There are special bags available for chemical filtration because some chemical
resins are too small to be held by a stocking and will require a micron bag.
They are to be placed in the water flow of the tank e.g. Canister filters a sump or
mini reef.
Where can you place activated carbon in a tank with an under-gravel filter?
The best place to put activated carbon is in a stocking or carbon bag and placed
near the outlet of the up lifts.
The other place is to bury it at the bottom of the uplift tubes.
Does some carbons leach out phosphates?

Yes, in general the cheaper the brand, the more they will leach.
It can help to wash them in fresh water first.
If this is a concern simply place a sample of the brand you wish to try into a bucket
and test the phosphate before you add it and after you take it out in a few weeks.
How much should I use?

You should first place a standard size bag (Max of 2gms per litre) of activated
carbon in a convenient position then over the coming weeks monitor the results it is
creating. If the results are poor you can increase the amount being used or the
amount of time it is used.
Try it keep the amount to a minimum if it is a reef tank, so if you are pleased with the
results of the bag that has been added you may consider using less next time.
For a reef tank it is not advisable to run more than 2 grams of carbon per litre of tank
water continually.
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How often should it be replaced?

It depends on the brand though the average suggestion is once a month.
There are carbon test kits available to check if the carbon is still useful. They are a
plastic strip with a faint yellow line on them. You place it in the water and stand back,
if you can see the line then the carbon is good; if you cant then the carbon should
be replaced.
Carbon used to filter air should be replaced every 3 months.
What are the advantages of activated carbon filtration?

Activated carbon is a good way to draw organic pigment out of the water e.g. the
yellowish tinge as a result of mineralisation. This will increase light penetration to the
corals.
They work quickly.
They are cheap.
What are the disadvantages of activated carbon filtration?

It is important to replace the charcoal on a monthly basis because once it becomes
turgent it often lets go of the waste, which then goes back into the aquarium.
Be careful not to use medication when you have charcoal in the filter because it may
draw the medication out. So if you need to use medication keep the filter going but
remove the charcoal and replace it when the medication is complete.
You must use a good brand as the cheap ones can cause phosphate problems.
Carbon is believed to also remove useful substances as well.
Overuse of carbon can lead to coral bleaching because of the loss of trace elements
e.g. Iodine.
Carbon increases light penetration, which also leads to coral bleaching, especially if
the coral is already suffering from a lack of trace elements.
Each time carbon is replaced the tank may experience fluctuated bacteria levels,
because of the reduction of stable food for it.
Carbon will not remove NO3 or PO4. How long at a time should activated carbon
filters be used?
It is important to follow the directions of the particular brand you select.
Activated carbon should be replaced after a month of use.
Carbon must be replaced every 1-2 months, depending on the amount of stock in
the tank and the amount of carbon used. Carbon tests will allow for monitoring.
Short periods of carbon use are best e.g. 2-3 days once a month.
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SPONGES OR RESINS
What types of sponges or resins are available?
Phosphate, silicate, organic, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, hardness,
metal and more.
Many chemical mediums take at least a week to work.
Where should they be placed?

Most resins and sponges are to be placed in high water flow e.g. in the top of a
canister filter.
Some sponges e.g. phosphate sponges are rechargeable so follow the directions of
the product.
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QUESTIONS ON PROTEIN SKIMMERS

How does a protein skimmer work?
The way that some skimmers work is bubbles are injected into the
bottom of a chamber which causes electrically charged high level
waste to bond with the oxygen propelling it upwards. The skimmer
is designed so the foam created is caught in a collection container,
effectively separating it from the rest of the water. The clean water
is returned to the tank at the bottom and the waste is thrown out.
Some run on a counter current, meaning that because water is
added to the skimmer from the top and exits from the bottom the
flow runs against the air bubbles. This maximises the time that the bubbles are in
contact with the water.
A skimmer can only skim waste out of the water if waste is present. So dont worry if
it seems to stop working if you have no organic waste present in the water.
A good skimmer is one of the keys to a successful saltwater tank.
Increased UV radiation helps precipitate protein, which allows the skimmer to be
more effective.
How do you set the skimmer?

The skimmer is to be set so the right foam is gathered in the collection cup. There
are two types of foam- normal foam that is small, clear or white bubbles of identical
size, and protein foam (adsorbate), which has darker coloured bubbles of different
sizes.
The idea is to collect the adsorbate and try not to get the normal foam. This is
achieved by setting the skimmer.
A protein skimmer is best run in a sump that has been fed by a surface skimmer,
because many protein molecules gather on the surface of the water.
How do you set an air-driven skimmer?

Adjusting the amount of air to it or adjusting its elevation in the water.
If you want the foam to increase, add more air or lower its position in the water.
If you want fewer bubbles, reduce the amount of air or raise its position in the water.
The airstone in the skimmer should be on before you place it in the water. This will
maximise pressure because it wont have to be forced into a water filled airline and
though a wet airstone.
The airstones must be replaced regularly, especially if you are seeing a change in
the foam or if you are having trouble setting the skimmer.
How do you set a venturi skimmer?

The outlet will have a tap.
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If you close the tap the foam level will raise.

If you open the tap the foam level will decrease.
Ensure that the pre-filter on the pump running the skimmer is always clean.
What is better an air-driven skimmer or a venturi skimmer?

I prefer the venturi because you dont have to replace the airstones and they work a
lot more vigorously.
Venturi can be a lot larger because immense air pressure is not needed to drive a
large one with an airstone.
An air pump may be attached to the air pipe of the venturi skimmer; this will increase
its pressure and productivity. The pump must have a check valve or be above the
skimmer to prevent the back flow of water if the pump is switched off.
There are special air pumps that are available that are designed to be used with
protein skimmers. These pumps draw in air through the inlet and they contain
internal pegs, which smash the bubbles so they become finer.
Why isnt my skimmer foaming up as much as it used to?

The main reasons for this complaint is that the tank is running out of substances that
can be skimmed. The skimmer can only work if there is waste to be skimmed out, so
check your logbook readings.
The skimmer may have to be cleaned more regularly or more thoroughly, to remove
built-up fatty acids.
If you complete a log book read out of the parameters of the water you may find that
something has changed e.g. the salt level, temperature, pH or hardness level is too
low for it to function correctly.
It is possible that the pre-filter of the pump driving it is clogged, which will result in
decreased pressure.
If it is an air driven unit the diaphragm may be split in the pump or the air stone may
need to be replaced.
Surface tension increases with higher salinity and with lower temperature (it will
foam better with high surface tension).
How often do you replace the air-stone in an air-driven protein skimmer?

When you see a deterioration in the quality of the bubbles (if they get too large), this
will cause the foam to be less effective.
Small bubbles are better for a protein skimmer because of increased surface area,
so wooden air stones have to be used. Air-stones need to be replaced a minimum of
once a month.
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If my venturi skimmer is in my sump, how do I stop the tanks main water pump
from sucking up the bubbles produced by the skimmer and spitting it into the
main tank?
The most obvious action is to relocate them so they are at opposite ends of the
sump.
An easy way is to place a piece of glass between the pump inlet and the skimmers
outlet. This should enable the bubbles to precipitate by the time they are sucked
around to the pump.
If you have the skimmer outlet set so the water flow cascades down the wall of the
sump this can help avoid bubbles building up in the water.
It can help if you place a piece of foam directly under the skimmers return pipe.
What types of skimmer can run Ozone?

External venturi skimmers are the best.
Most external skimmers can be run with ozone.
Internal skimmers present too much danger from residual ozone.
Ozone speeds up the deterioration of the airstones in the air-driven models.
Any water leaving the skimmer must be run over activated carbon to withdraw any
residual ozone.
What does it remove?

A protein skimmer removes dissolved substances e.g.
Fats.
Fatty acids.
Protein.
Amino acids.
Phosphates.
Carbohydrates.
Bacteria.
Iodide.
Copper.
Iron.
Zinc.
Phenols. (Delbeek and Sprung)
Albumens
Toxins produced by invertebrates or algae.
Even some particulate matter.
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It must be done at least once a week.
When you are cleaning out the skimmer you are not only cleaning the collected
adsorbate but also wiping off any collected fatty acids the may be hampering the
accumulation of any more adsorbate.
What are the advantages of a protein skimmer?

Protein skimmers remove waste before it can decompose.
A skimmer is one of the best ways to limit fluctuation because it skims out high level
waste before it is broken down into low level waste which causes more chemical
fluctuations when you do a water change.
Helps improve redox potential.
One of the major advantages is that they are able to remove toxins that are released
by corals, algae (and octopi). This enables you to keep more corals with reduced
risk of them poisoning each other.
What are the disadvantages of a protein skimmer?

Over-skimming can lead to a lack of trace elements (this is rarely a problem since
the ocean is so low in nutrients anyway).
Many things effect the functioning of a protein skimmer e.g. salinity, hardness or the
amount of fatty substances in the water.
A skimmer must be constantly monitored and cleaned.
Fatty substances gather in the skimmer that hampers its functioning, so it must be
cleaned at least once a week.
Will remove medication.
t
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PROTEIN SKIMMERS, USEFUL OR HARMFUL?

There are various methods and technology for keeping aquariums
clean and prosperous. Examples are Bio Chem-Zorb, Rowa, Purigen
and Ozone. Ozone can be used to help with water clarity and to help
control disease but it is important to note that it significantly reduces
the effectiveness of a protein skimmer. It can even result in a build up
of nitrate. It is best to research which products may be used in
conjunction with which protein skimmer design. An examination of
protein skimmers shows that they help keep aquariums in tip-top
shape by focusing on organic matter. This device bonds oxygen with the organic matter
and removes it from the water. The oxygen bubbles collect the matter as they make
their way up through the water column for accumulation in the collection cup. The
organic-free water then returns to the bottom of the device and back into to the
aquarium. Sounds great, right? Make sure the white foam stays inside the neck of the
device. The colored foam should rise into the cup. Remember this cup is where the
waste is placed after being collected. It is important to note that the white foam should
remain within the neck chamber and never carry over into the collection cup. Utilizing
the air valve will adjust the foam. Be sure to use the valve to increase and lower the
foam level as needed for the protein skimmer to function properly. It is important to keep
in mind what types of water habitats protein skimmers are useful for. It is suggested to
use them in these three types of aquariums: marine fish only, highly populated and new
reef aquariums. The skimmer enhances mechanical filtration by removing the
particulates in the water including algae spores and parasites. However, alternate water
habitats do not need this because the skimmer also removes necessary trace elements
required for the survival of the aquariums inhabitants. For highly populated tanks,
removing and replacing the cup every few days may be beneficial. If you see the need
for trace elements, simply begin this rotation remembering to add the solution desired
when removing the skimmer cup. For marine aquariums housing sharks or other very
large sea animals, an over-sized skimmer is highly recommended. This type of marine
life produces large amounts of excrement which must be filtered quickly and efficiently.
Protein Skimmer vs. Bio Balls The function of bio balls, in essence, is to breakdown
high-level waste into low-level waste. Bio balls dont actually remove organic matter. So
this low-level waste will build up as waste does contributing to heightened algae growth
and additional water changes. Using a protein skimmer before the introduction of bio
balls to the aquarium will remove the waste before it is broken down into matter the
skimmer cannot handle. Adding the device after use of the bio balls is pointless,
because as discussed, the skimmer cannot remove low-level waste. Thus, the protein
skimmer ends up only removing valuable trace elements instead. Whats the Value of
the Protein Skimmer? As mentioned, the protein skimmer is better utilised for marine
fish, highly populated and new reef aquariums. It may also be used for new water
habitations which may have unstable levels of organic waste, which is to be expected
for brand new tanks. Once the water becomes stable the quality will remain high due to
the natural allocation of bacteria. Then, the skimmer can be used as an oxygen reactor
and it is not suggested to use bio balls. To use the protein skimmer as an oxygen
reactor simply remove the cup. Three Week Skimmer Test Once the inhabitants of the
aquarium are faring well its time to perform the three week skimmer test. When the
quality of the water is high and the aquarium is running as a stable ecosystem, refrain
from adding chemicals, trace elements or changing the water. When the three weeks
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are up, check the protein skimmer to see whether it is still removing waste or trace
elements. In the event that the skimmer is still removing major organic matter, continue
cleansing the eco-system and perform the test again at a later date. However, in the
event that the skimmer is no longer removing waste, simply remove the cap and utilise it
as an oxygen reactor until needed again for its cleansing assistance. The Skimmer
Trace Element Test After the three week skimmer test you can perform a trace element
test. Knowing the levels of trace elements in the tank is important for flourishing coral.
For long-term success, having numerous trace elements is absolutely necessary. Over
time, missing elements will cause deterioration (possibly to excessive levels). To begin
the test, make sure the skimmer is on and add one trace element solution only. Check
how much of the solution has been removed over the next couple of days. Wait one
week with the skimmer running before testing another solution. Do the same for each
solution. When the test is complete, you will know which trace elements can be added
with the skimmer running and which to add while the cap is off. Having a skimmer may
prove useful or detrimental. Look into whether or not your tank needs a skimmer. If it
does, research which protein skimmer will work best for your aquarium so your beautiful
investment can thrive. Good luck and enjoy.
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DOES TAP WATER HAVE A PLACE IN AQUARIUMS?

Keeping fish healthy and happy is a skill that can be easily
learned. One major component of fish health is facilitating their
osmoregulation system. This system is quite significant for fish to
stay alive as it determines the balance of both fluid and salt inside
the fish itself. The more salty the tank water, the harder the fishs
system must work to maintain proper balance. Make sure to note
the salt levels in a fishs normal environment before purchasing
and adding to your aquarium. The osmotic pressure (salt level) a fish can take depends
upon their evolutionary status and natural habitat. For instance, a freshwater fishs
tolerance for salt is very low. Thus the osmotic pressure for a tank to include a fresh
water fish must be maintained to a similar level as that of their natural habitat. This
same rule of thumb is to be used for marine life as well. There are fish that live in
brackish water (a combination of fresh and salt water) and fish who travel between salt
and fresh water. These types of fish have a high tolerance for changes in osmotic
pressure. Salmon are an example of this type of fish. The osmoregulation system of
fresh water fish balances their bodies to maintain a slightly higher level of salt in the
body in comparison to the surrounding water. The fishs gills take in the water, removing
the oxygen and then flushing the rest out as urine. Their bodies are always regulating
water versus salt. Taking marine life into account, their bodies maintain a lower level of
salt than that of their environment. Their osmoregulation system is consistently adding
water to their bodies because the osmotic pressure is always pushing salt in. These are
important facts, because they can help in the event of having a sick fish. If a fish is ill,
lowering the salt level of the aquarium will help the fish reduce the energy used for its
osmoregulation system. If the energy for this system is reduced, it can then divert more
energy to its immune system so that it can heal. When creating an aquarium think of the
best aquatic ecosystem, the ocean. It is 77% of the worlds surface, but more
importantly has little variation in salt levels, even during season changes. The osmotic
pressure changes more significantly in lakes and rivers. Most sea life is only equipped
to handle up to a 2% change in salt level per day. Keeping this in mind when adding
new fish to your tank, make sure to maintain a lower level of salt in the water will help
the fish adjust to its new environment. It may take up to three weeks for full adjustment
to take place. Once the fish is healthy and ready to withstand a more natural habitat,
start increasing the osmotic pressure but no more than 2% per day until the normal level
is reached. This should be about 1.025. If the fish is doing well, congratulations! If the
fish seems to become stressed again, reduce the salt level once more but in increments
of no more than 2% per day. You will notice that during this period of lower osmotic
pressure, some corals will not open well. But, they will function properly again once
balance is reintroduced. An additional reason for maintaining a lower osmotic pressure
before introducing a new fish is due to the conditions at retailers. Stores generally keep
their salt level at 1.018 to keep the fish healthy by reducing disease. This salt level can
also be maintained in a quarantine tank. This way a fish can adjust to a new
environment before being added to the main aquarium. Since fish release pathogens
during high levels of stress, using a quarantine tank is highly suggested. Pathogens can
lead to disease in other fish. When the new fish is just about ready to join the crew,
begin adjusting the salt and pH levels as well as the temperature to that of the main
aquarium. Remember not to exceed a 2% increase in the salt level per day. Once each
tank has equivalent levels, you can easily scoop up the new fish and add him to his new
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family. Fish that are sick or stressed can use a quarantine tank, but if one isnt available,
lowering the osmotic pressure in the main tank will do the trick to enhance their immune
system. One additional option is the freshwater dip. This is accomplished by providing a
freshwater alternative that has the same salt and pH levels as the aquarium. Place the
fish in the fresh water for 10 minutes. This will take care of any pathogens and/or
bacteria that may be affecting the fish. And while it will be rough for the fish to deal with,
the dip should not kill it. If the fish passes on, it most likely did not have a strong enough
immune system to survive for much longer anyway. The fresh water dip may be
repeated each day if needed. Each of the suggestions in this article can and should be
used to maintain fish health even after the aquarium is all set up.
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CLEANING
How do you clean new substrate?
The best way is to place a bit at a time in a bucket.
Fill the bucket with water and stir the substrate with your hand.
Tip out the empty water leaving the substrate in the bottom.
This will need to be repeated until the water that you are
pouring out is crystal clear (when you think it is clean rinse it a few more times to be
sure, because dirty substrate isnt a good way to start the tank).
How do you clean substrate in the tank?

There is a device called a vacuum siphon, which is a thick clear tube connected to a
hose. The way it works is you siphon water through the hose, so when you force the
thick tube into the substrate the siphoning water pulls the substrate into the thick
tube, allowing the substrate to bounce around in the thick tube then fall to the bottom
again. As the substrate is bouncing around in the tube the debris (which is lighter
than the substrate) gets sucked out the siphon hose.
Stirring the gravel will help clean it.
Remove any food that is left uneaten straight away.
Keeping fish that stir the bottom will keep the substrate cleaner.
How do you clean the glass?

An aquarium sponge is the most common tool to clean the glass (dont use a
household sponge because many contain chemicals that will kill the fish).
Stubborn spots may need to be removed with a razor blade.
There are magnetic glass cleaners that enable you to clean the glass without wetting
your hands.
If you wish to clean an empty tank or the front glass you can use methylated spirits
and a rag.
How do you bleach dead coral?

Add 2 cups of bleach per bucket and allow it to soak for 2 weeks.
After bleaching lightly hose then soak in fresh water till the smell has totally gone.
Be careful where you leave the bucket of bleach because it is toxic to animals and
kids. Ensure all bleach has been removed before you return it to the tank as bleach
is harmful to the tanks inhabitants.
How do you clean decorations if you fear disease contamination?

Boiling them.
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Bleaching them.
Hosing them.
Scrubbing them.
Drying them.
If in doubt do without.
How do you clean a Protein skimmer?

Lift off the collection cup and pour out the liquid adsorbate (which is great for plant
fertilizer or practical jokes).
Wipe the whole cup with a wet sponge or brush, concentrating on the stem to
remove accumulated fatty acids.
A few times a year the skimmer and pump must be taken apart and totally cleaned.
With the protein skimmer dont use an adsorbate drain if it means you may not clean
out the skimmer as regularly. It is not just emptying the collected liquid that is
important, it is wiping off the fatty acids that accumulate in the neck of the skimmer
which reduce the effectiveness of its operation.
How do you clean out an external canister filter that is set up biologically?
You should have water prepared ready for a water change before you start to clean
out a biological canister filter.
Switch off the power.
Remove the filter from the tank and take it outside or to the sink (if the filter has a
shut off tap system this is an easy job).
Empty the separate media into separate buckets.
Drain water from your tank into the bucket (dont take out more water than you are
prepared to replace) and swirl the media in the water with your hand. The media
doesnt need to get really clean - all you have to do is try to remove some debris off
the media, to stop it from clogging.
Put the media back in the filter in the same order with replaced wool.
Fill the tank up with water that you have prepared first (so you have not only cleaned
the filter you have done a water change too).
Put the filter back into position and connect it up.
Fill it with water from the tank (by allowing the water to siphon through the inlet
tube).
Turn it on.
Ensure that when you wash out the main biological medium do so in water from the
tank not from the tap so you dont kill the bacteria on it.
It is also a good idea to add a chemical bacteria enhancer to the water so if any
bacterial capacity was lost it will be rebuilt quickly.
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How do you clean out an external canister filter that is set up mechanically?
Switch off the power.
Remove the filter from the tank and take it outside or to the sink (if the filter has a
shut off tap system this is an easy job).
Empty the separate media into separate buckets.
Wash the media under the tap so it is clean and replace the wool.
Put the filter back into position and connect it up.
Fill it with water from the tank (by allowing the water to siphon through the inlet
tube).
Turn it on.
How do you clean a trickle filter?

The trickle filter should have a decent pre-filter that is cleaned regularly
The biological media in the trickle filter should never need cleaning, because this will
only cause bacteria loss.
How do you clean an algae bed filter?

Just scrape out the established algae.
A plastic knife can be used to scrape out the algae.
Ensure the post-filter is cleaned after you clean the filter to stop algae spurs getting
into the tank.
How do you clean a settling filter?

The best way is to siphon the debris out of the bottom of the filter.
You can use a fine net to scoop out the waste if you arent due for a water change.
How do you clean live rock?

It is advisable to shake any new rock in a bucket of salt water before you place it in
to the tank to remove any free debris.
Every few weeks a powerhead can be aimed at your live rock and corals to disturb
any debris that may settle on them (or even just swipe your hand over them to blow
away settled debris).
How do you clean a pump?

Pull it apart and scrub the impeller with a toothbrush and free the internal chamber of
any debris or calcium settlements.
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Some water pumps have pre-filters so it is important to clean them as regularly as

possible to reduce the chance of them hampering flow.
With air pumps you must ensure that the air filter is always clean or the flow will slow
and air quality will lower.
How do you clean filter pipes?

Wire or string can be tied to a piece of cloth and fed through the pipe. When you pull
on the wire that is hanging out of the tube the cloth is pulled through the pipe wiping
the inside of the pipe as it goes through it. The size of the cloth you use will be
determined by the size of the hose.
There are many pipe cleaners available on the market. Flushing or soaking the
pipe with fresh water can be a good idea.
How do you rid a surface of calcium build-up?

Wipe or soak it in vinegar.
How do you clean the lids?

The lids on the tank can be cleaned with a razor blade to scrape off algae and salt
creep, then wiped over with a sponge.
Do this as regularly as possible to ensure that they are always clean, to allow full
light penetration.
How do you clean the lights?

Wipe over the tubes and reflectors with a dry cloth or sponge to remove any dust
build-up.
How often should you clean pipes?

Clean clear pipes at least every 2 months.
PVC every year.
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CLEANING ALGAE FOR GOOD!

Many people clean algae off the glass by wiping it with a magnet
cleaner, a sponge or a razor blade. The problem with this is many
algae are uni-cellular, which means it will re-attach once it is wiped
off or more advanced algae will end up stuck in the filter or caught
in the back of the tank. When the wiped off algae dies it releases
its stores of nutrients such as nitrates and phosphates, which will
lower the quality of the water and promote of the growth of more
algae. An alternative is to use your front algae as an algae filter. During the week algae
will grow on the glass and store large amounts of nutrients, then when it is time to clean
the glass you can use Poly-filter to harvest the algae and remove it from the tank,
therefore removing all of the stored nutrients. Poly-filter is an amazing material that will
collect the dislodged algae. Allowing you to remove it from the tank once you have
finished your clean. These same nutrients that are stored by algae are the same
nutrients that cause algae to grow in the tank. So the less nutrients that you have in the
tank will mean the less algae will grow in the tank! This way you are not just cleaning
your algae, you are cleaning it for good, improving your water quality and reducing the
amount of algae that will grow in the future! Good luck and enjoy!
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WATER CLARITY
What is the yellow tinge in the water?
The most obvious reason is tanic acid that may be released from
any wood that may be in the water.
It is possible that as a result of the mineralisation process a
yellow colour is formed. This is the result of overstocking or
overfeeding.
Incorrect lighting can produce a yellow tinge.
This is common if the tank has inadequate filtration and contains a shark or ray.
Is the yellow tinge bad?

The yellow effect is clearly less pleasant to look at.
The yellow tinge alters the spectrum received by the coral, which should not be
encouraged.
It can indicate that the nutrient level in the tank is unacceptably high.
How do you clear the yellow tinge?

Protein skimmer
Regular water changes.
Add activated charcoal to the filter.
Add ozone.
Increase filtration.
Decrease feeding.
What is the mess that looks like some has blown their nose into the tank?
This may be the formation of dinoflagellates.
See the section in Questions about algae on dinoflagellates.
Why does it look like it is snowing in my tank?

This is often a result of too much calcium in the water under the wrong chemical
conditions.
This is often the case if you have added new water with extra high calcium levels or
if you have added too many calcium supplements at once.
Page 105
What effect does the snowy stuff have on the tank?

All you should need to do is siphon off what you can of the silt and check the
parameters of the tank, especially alkalinity.
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ODOURS
Why does the aquarium smell?
Fresh live rock smells.
Ozone smells.
Large amounts of diatoms can release nutrients that may cause
an odour in the aquarium.
How do you stop the tank from smelling?

Add activated carbon.
The use of a protein skimmer will help.
Regular water changes.
If the tank smells of rotten egg gas then the oxygen level is too low and hydrogen
sulfide is present. This is avoided by minimising dead spots.
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BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION
When are aerobic bacteria most effective?
The more oxygen available, the more powerful the bacteria. It
has been said that the capability of bacteria operating with the
presence of oxygen e.g. in a trickle filter is 20 times more
effective than in submersed conditions e.g. in a canister filter.
The higher the temperature (up till 30C), the more effective the
bacteria.
The higher the pH (up till 9.0), the more effective the bacteria.
There are various chemicals on the market that can enhance bacterial function.
Regular additions of the trace element Molybdenum is believed to enhance bacterial
functions.
Under the chemical conditions offered in an aquarium the bacterium that breaks
ammonia into nitrite seems to work a lot quicker than from nitrite to nitrate.
Once of the bacteria starts up the pH may drop because of the CO2 the bacteria
produces.
Where do anaerobic-bacteria live?

Anaerobic-bacteria grow in places of no oxygen e.g. in the live rock core or in the
dead spots of the aquarium where the oxygen is exhausted by the aerobic-bacteria
and is not replenished because of the lack of water movement.
Anaerobic-bacteria are generally the wrong type of bacteria for an aquarium
because the discharge can build up hydrogen-sulfate level, which is extremely toxic
mainly if it is disturbed.
Anaerobic-bacteria produce an enzyme, which is able to reduce nitrate ions.
Anaerobic conditions generate heat.
Where does hydrogen sulfide come from?

Hydrogen sulfide will be produced by anaerobic bacteria, which breaks down sulfate.
The black build-up is an iron compound as a result of anaerobic conditions. This
must be siphoned out. Try to minimise whats disturbed, as the hydrogen sulfide is
poisonous.
It is only really a problem when thick layers of sand with no oxygen content are
disturbed.
This is more common if your sand grains are too small.
How long does it take to establish stable populations of nitrifying bacteria?

This can take 4-6 weeks even if you are getting low logbook readings.
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There are various chemicals available on the market that can enhance bacterial
growth.
Does bacteria prefer light or dark?

Biological filtration seems to be more effective if kept in a dark environment.
How can you tell which biological process is occurring?

If the redox of the filter is 300-450 mV it is mainly an aerobic process.
If the redox is 50 to 200 it is mainly an anaerobic process.
f you are building up nitrate it is mainly aerobic.
Why are dead spots so dangerous to a reef tank?

In these dead spots the aerobic-bacteria exhaust the oxygen and you get a build-up
of anaerobic-bacteria.
Anaerobic-bacteria break down low-level waste (nitrate) and discharge hydrogen-
sulfate, which can build up, is extremely toxic, can lower the kH and make the water
more acidic.
If these pockets are left undisturbed they will slowly leech out hydrogen-sulfate.
If these pockets are disturbed the waste will be let free into the tank, often with
disastrous effects.
Dead spots can also be a problem if you have small fish that may swim into them
and get poisoned. This can explain the disappearance of many small fish in well
decorated tanks.
How deep must the sand be in order to get anaerobic zones?

3 cm or deeper.
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ENSURE ADEQUATE WATER FLOW AND SURFACE

AGITATION
When the top of the water surface is flat, gas will not exchange.
You can have a lot of water flow down to the bottom of the tank,
but it is almost useless because we`re trying to create agitation at
the surface, which allows gas exchange. The most important
thing to the fish besides the water is oxygen, thus we need to
have plenty of oxygen in our aquariums. We are really looking for
oxygen saturation and there are two ways that you can provide oxygen: either via an air
pump, which is going to give you a nice stream of bubbles, or by using a water pump,
which is going to break the water surface. Breaking the water surface is extremely
important with tanks like cichlid tanks because of how heavily stocked they need to be.
For instance, if you are going to have a 200lt aquarium, you`re probably going to put
thirty, if not forty fish in it, and adequate gas exchange will ensure that each fish gets
enough oxygen. So, putting in a nice, big air stone will be your best bet in providing
plentiful agitation of the water surface. The next thing to understand is that your filter
does not aerate the water, because the water that goes out of the filter will be very low
in oxygen. One of the main things the filter does is a process called oxidization, which
means it uses bacteria which, in turn, use oxygen to break down the waste of the fish.
So, the oxidization is sucking all the oxygen out of the water. Therefore, when the water
comes out of the filter, it is oxygen deficient, because the bacteria have just stripped all
the oxygen out for the oxidization. If it agitates the surface while it is being returned to
the tank, then it is a process of re-oxygenation, not oxygenation. You should still have a
separate pump for aeration. So, when you go home and check out your aquarium, make
sure that you have something to aerate and something to filter. And remember that
they`re not the same.
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QUARANTINE TANK
Never introduce a fish that may appear sick. This seems obvious,
but I have seen too many times customers saying, "Oh, I just felt
sorry for him." If you want to take a fish that you feel sorry for, put it
in a quarantine tank. Or if Uncle Bobs shutting his tank down and
wants to give you his fish, and he hasnt looked after his fish for the
last four months, dont necessarily accept them into your main display tank, put them in
a quarantine tank first. You need to make sure the fish that go into your aquarium are
healthy; this means they do what they are supposed to do. They swim in the way they
are supposed to swim and have nice, clear eyes, clean fins, and scales. Placing a fish
in a quarantine tank for 2-4 weeks will help to secure the health of the rest of your fish.
In the quarantine tank the fish can be easily medicated and problems can quickly be
detected.
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NANO REEF AQUARIUMS

A nano aquarium is a small aquarium designed to have the
look and feel of a much larger one, kind of like a bonsai. They
are perfect for beginners because they give you a taste of
reef keeping without the price tag! Due to their small size they
are very affordable so you can learn the principles of reef
care without risking the amount of stock kept in a larger
system. In general the larger the body of water the easier the
tank will be to keep, so if you can master a nano there will be
no stopping you!
To set the tank up you will need a filter, light, heater, coral sand, cured live rock and
prepared saltwater.
It is important to follow all the normal rules of reef keeping in a nano tank!
Ensure that you have good surface agitation with water flow of at least 14 times per
hour and have advanced filter media like Polyfilter to polish the water, while offering
media with parallel de-nitrification media such as Marine Pure. The lights should be at
least 1w per litre and on 10-12 hours a day. Temperature is easy to maintain at 25C
with the help of a heater for winter and a desk fan to blow across the surface of the
water if it over heats in summer.
Water changes are very easy to do due to its small size so 1/4 should be done every
couple of weeks depending on your nitrate levels, minor and trace element will need to
added depending on the amount of coral that you have. Algae are easily controlled as
long as you maintain phosphate levels at zero and have adequate scavengers to feed
on it. To maintain a salinity of 1.024 fresh water top ups must be done weekly with RO
water to combat evaporation.
It is important to keep a logbook and test your water regularly because things can
change quickly in such a small tank, aim for pH 8.4, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0,
phosphate 0, calcium 420 and kH 8dkh.
Due to the small size many people focus on easy to keep corals and inverts in a nano
display. It is important that you dont over stock the tank and you should focus on
scavengers that will help to keep it clean e.g. snails, abalone, shrimp, urchins, starfish
and blennies. Try to select small species and get everything as small as possible. It is
important to have a plan for your animals as they grow because most species of fish
and coral will end up out growing out of the tank. You can either get them a larger tank
or return them to the store once they have out grown your tank. The nano is often
popular with beginners so upgrading the tank maybe part of the long term plan, allowing
the nano to become a perfect quarantine tank.
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ULTIMATE AQUACARE WEBISODES

The key to keeping a thriving reef aquarium is to strive to
offer the best environment possible for your animals. Once
up one a time we simply aimed to keep our animals alive,
those days are gone, now we aim to have them thrive!
The basis of a captive reef eco-system is the quality of the
water. Most people understand that when your water quality
is good your aquarium will go well and when your water
quality is bad your aquarium will go bad, but not many people
realise that when your water is not quite right then with time your aquarium will be not
quite right. This highlights the importance of accurate testing and the use of an
aquarium logbook to monitor past treads and predict future patterns in regards to your
water quality.
If you want to keep a fish only aquarium you will get away with testing:
Temperature 25C
Salinity 1.020
pH 8.4
kH 8dkH
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
If you want a reef aquarium with colourful corals you will need to test to ensure your
parameters are:
Temperature 25C
Salinity 1.024
pH 8.4
kH 8dkH
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate <0.5
Phosphate <0.05
Calcium 410ppm
Magnesium 1200ppm
You may also choose to test strontium, iodine, potassium and iron, which may affect the
corals colours.
The quality of your light will also affect your coral because they harbour micro algae
under the surface of the coral which allows it to use light as an energy source. Due to
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the fact that the zooxanthellae are brown a coral cannot colour to its potential and grow
to its potential at the same time so you must choose one or the other.
If you want a reef aquarium with corals that grow you will need to test that your water
parameters are:
Temperature 25C
Salinity 1.024
pH 8.4
kH 12dkH
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate <1
Phosphate <1
Calcium 450ppm
Magnesium 1300ppm
In order to maintain these parameters you must have good filtration, accurate test kits
and only use quality clean fish foods.
All fresh water for top ups and freshwater used to make up all salt water for water
changers should be R.O water, to avoid impurities in tap water.
The difference in the quality of the salt available to use in your aquarium is amazing!
Most commercially available salts are produced by large companies trying to offer the
best they can to a price, to return profit to shareholders. This means that the best known
brands can simply be the ones with the biggest advertising budgets, not necessarily the
best quality.
When selecting the brand of salt that you wish to use I suggest buying one small pack
from each brand that you believe are good and testing it for yourself.
To do the test simply get several white buckets of R.O water at 25C and add an airstone
to each. Add the exact amount of salt required for each bucket of water and watch it
dissolve. If it dissolves quickly and evenly and does not discolour the water it will reflect
the quality of the salt mix.
The next day test all the parameters in the water with the most accurate kits you can get
to ensure that the water parameters come up the same as it claims.
The ultimate test is to use the product an asses the results that you see in aquarium
over time. If you are not happy with your results change brands and note the difference
in your logbook.
A high quality salt mixed up in R.O water will deliver the best result for your aquarium
because it cannot contain impurities, parasites and pollution possible in natural sea
water.
The key to aquarium maintenance is to make it as easy as possible so researching a
simple way of mixing up new water and delivering it to your tank will be worth the effort!
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When doing a water change we must aim to get the best quality water in and the worse
quality out, therefore a gravel-siphon should be used at all times to ensure you are only
removing the dirtiest water from within the substrate not just clean water off the top of
the water column.
Over time you will get to know your aquarium and will become familiar with how often
you need to do the water changers, on order to get the results that you require. I do
believe that regular small changes get better results than irregular large changes. 25%
per month is a good guide for most people, but you will form your own view. The more
fish that you have in the tank will mean that you have to do water changers more often.
If you wish to keep a thriving coral reef tank full of coral you are going to have to create
a supplement routine because as the corals are thriving they will be using these
elements from the water so they will need to be replaced weekly, especially on weeks
without a water change.
The quality of your trace element supplements is as important as the quality of your salt
so you must strive to ensure that you are using the best available!
Aquariums with animals that survive is not enough we must aim to have aquariums that
thrive, so strive to use the best on your reef because your animals deserve it and will
reward you for it!
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PAUL TALBOT`S MARINE AQUARIUM PRINCIPLES

Ensure adequate light
Ensure adequate waterflow and surface agitation
Ensure adequate nutrition, vitamins, trace elements and NEVER
overfeed
Never add too many fish at once and NEVER add any new fish
unless your aquarium has been running perfectly and it has been
at least one month since a fish has died, been sick or has been added
Monitor fish aggression and dont introduce predators with prey.
Never wash biological filter media in tap water
Ensure your water parameters are always correct 25C, salinity 1.023, pH 8.4, kH
200ppm, Nh4 0ppm, NO2 0ppm, NO3 <10ppm, Ca 450ppm, PO4 0ppm.
Never introduce a fish that may appear sick and ensure your salt level is 1.020 when
the new fish is introduced.
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PAUL TALBOTS POND PRINCIPLES

Paul Talbot`s aim is to simplify fish-keeping and make it
accessible, possible, fun and interesting to everyone.
Ensure adequate water flow and surface agitation.
Ensure adequate nutrition, vitamins, trace elements and
never overfeed.
Always acclimatise new fish, never add too many fish at once and NEVER add any
new fish unless your pond has been running perfectly and it has been at least one
month since a fish has died, been sick or has been added.
Maintain 1 gm per litre salt in the water, salt bath all new or sick fish (10min 130gm
of salt per 4.5lt) and never overstock your pond.
Monitor fish aggression and dont introduce fish small enough to fit into the mouth of
the largest fish.
Never wash biological filter media in tap water.
Never change more than a quarter of the water at a time and always add water-ager
to any tap water before it is introduced to the pond.
Never introduce a fish that may appear sick.
Use a UV sterilizer if your pond develops green water.
Ensure adequate cover and protection.
Ensure your water parameters are always correct pH 7.4, kH 80ppm, Nh4 0ppm,
NO2 0ppm, NO3 <80ppm.
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12 STEPS TO TURN YOUR POOL INTO A POND!

Do you have a pool that you dont use, why not make it a fish
pond? Did you know you can easily convert your pool into an
amazing fish pond? If this sounds good then follow this simple
12 set plan!
1. The first thing I suggest is to totally empty the water out
of the pool, this way there is no risk of residual toxins and
it makes any alterations easier.
2. Make any changes to the landscape e.g. add a waterfall and cement bush rock
over lapping the edge of the pool that will create a natural effect and will act as a
barrier to stop leafs being blown in the water. While the pool is empty it is worth
cleaning up the surface and adding a pond sealer to be safe. Consider including
any water lights and fountains.
3. If your pool filter has Ozone you can consider using it to keep that water clear
(seek advice on how to use it first) if not I would definitely suggest getting a UV
sterilizer to stop the water from going green.
4. Install pond baskets on the steps of the pool allowing you to include shallow
water plants like Lilies.
5. Calculate the volume of the pond by measuring the average LxWxD in cm
divided by 1000 to give you litres and purchase double the amount of Marine
Pure biological media blocks to throw into the bottom of the pond to grow good
bacteria and keep the fish healthy.
6. Once you are happy with the new look of the pool refill it with water. Before the
fish are added you will need to treat the new water with Easylife, kH buffer and
1g/lt salt.
7. Include several large dirty run pumps able to turn over the volume of the water
several times per hour, all pointing 45 degrees up creating surface agitation in a
clockwise direction. The aim is to create kinetic energy in the pond by having the
volume of the water spin on itself in one direction creating its own momentum.
This will stop the pond from going stagnant and will keep it clean by keeping the
particles in suspension. Regardless of the claims of the pump manufacturer they
will need to be serviced quarterly to stop them becoming clogged up.
8. The current pool filter will become the ponds mechanical filters so ensure they
are run regularly on a timer and are back washed weekly. Pool pumps are not
designed to run 24/7 so the fish will have to rely on the lower wattage dirty run
pumps in the pond.
9. Depending on where you live and if the pool has a solar heater on it you may be
able to consider semi or tropical fish for the pond?
10. Once the water is treated and flowing nicely for at least a week you can add
some fish. Start with a small amount of cheap fish such as Goldfish acclimatized
to the pond. Over time you can slowly increase the fish stocks remembering that
the more fish that you have will lead to more maintenance being required.
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11. In general when the water is dirty the fish hardly need to be fed as they are able
to scavenge. If the water is clear the pond will need to be fed a couple of times a
week, ensure that there is not one speck of food left after 30seconds. Only feed
the highest quality food if you want the best results, because the pond will stay
cleaner and the fish healthier. Stick with New Life Spectrum because it is by far
the best food in the world!
12. I would also advise you add Pond Detox every quarter to help maintain the pond
because it is a blend of bacteria from mud that will break down the accumulated
sludge and help to keep the filters cleaner.
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POND HINTS
Change 20% of the water per 12 weeks. The use of products
such as Aquarium Detox, The water cleanser, Pure filter
media and Polyfilter will reduce your need for water changes.
change more than 1/2 of the water at a time as it can stress
the fish.
Feed a maximum of what they can eat in 30sec, ensuring that
you can`t see one spec after 30sec - once a day, in the morning, 5 times per week. If
you feed New Life Spectrum fish foods, it will reduce waste in the pond and enhance
fish health and colour. It is the best food on the market. Only one person should feed
the fish. Cut feeding to maximum of once a week in winter.
Never add fish that are small enough to fit in the mouth of the biggest fish.
Add 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt per 5lt of Pond water.
Test pH weekly and keep it 7.4 (blue) if ph is green or yellow do water change and
buff water using kH generator.
Carbonate Hardness must be present above 4dKH. This must be tested using a KH
test kit.
Texas Holey rock will help maintain pH and kH.
Add double dose of Easy-life water ager to any tap water. Add a dose of Easy-life
fluid filter media weekly to help stabilise and balance the water.
Never clean gravel in tap water, once it is in an established pond.
Never use tap water to clean or fill your filter or filter media as tap water contains
chlorine, which kills bacteria. If you have no bacteria in your filter you will have no
fish. Lack of bacteria will create cloudy water.
Always over filter the pond.
Acclimatise new fish by floating them in their bag in the tank for 30mins before
releasing them into the Pond.
Place a bit of polyfilter in the filter or in the water of the pond and replace it when it
turns black. The polyfilter will remove all the bad stuff from the water including
phosphate which is what creates algae!
Ensure the water surface has adequate surface agitation.
The Water Cleanser will help reduce Maintenance and algae.
Net out leafs as often as possible.
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LOG BOOKS
Why should I keep logbooks?
Logbooks are a good way of gathering information in an attempt to
control fluctuations in your aquarium.
The more you know about your water chemistry, the more ability
you have to control it.
A logbook can be a useful tool especial for saltwater tanks, which
require a more stable environment.
It is advisable to fill in your logbook about once a week.
The idea is to fill in all the levels you intend to test and make a negative observation
which if you fixed may make the aquarium better (e.g. my leather coral looks sick).
Note in the comment section what you did to improve the observation (e.g. I put the
leather coral into a position with greater water movement). Make sure that the next
week or more you document its progress. So the observations column is for
everything you see and the comments column is for everything you do.
If you dont understand something that you observed ask someone that does.
By doing this, you are always improving your mini ecosystem, your awareness of
conditions within your tank plus your own knowledge.
You can even refer back to this information if the same problem arises. Dont fall into
the trap of believing your water is always good because one day it wont be and by
the time you realise it, it may be too late.
How do you set up a logbook?

A good way to set up a logbook is in a standard exercise book.
Rule up the left-hand page for all the tests you intend to do and rule up the right-
hand page rule in half for observations and comments.
You can buy logbooks.
You can create them on a computer.
Most aquarium problems are mainly concerned with water chemistry.
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PHOTOGRAPHY
Why take photographs of your aquarium?
I strongly advise taking regular photos of your aquarium. Put the
date on the back of the photo and complete your logbook for that
day so you can match the photo with the water parameters at the
time.
How do you go about taking photos of your aquarium?

The more you experiment with different methods the better.
Ensure the tank is very clean especially algae or streaks on the front glass.
Make sure the water is free of debris or bubbles.
Ensure your camera is pointing straight at the tank not on an angle.
Turn the aquarium light off.
Arrange a light source that is on a 45-degree angle coming from over your shoulder.
The idea is to send the glare on a angle so it wont shine into the camera.
If you have two lights, it is better to have them both coming from a 45-degree angle,
one on each side of you.
The stronger the light the better.
The light can be arranged by mounting it or even getting someone to hold it in place
for you.
If you wish to take a photo of a certain fish in a certain position, first set the lights
and focus the camera on the desired spot then wait for the fish to move into place.
You or someone else can chase the fish into position if you have to.
It is best to be patient.
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HOLIDAY TIPS FOR YOUR AQUARIUM!

How to ensure your tank survives while you are away Are you
worried about what to do with your fish while you are on
holidays? Many people go away on holidays unprepared and
end up coming home to dead fish. This is the best way to spoil
a great week away! With some basic preparation you can
ensure that your tank is safe while you are away. Friendly
Helpers If you are getting someone to look after your tank while
you are away, it is very important that you write them detailed
instructions and never assume that they know ANYTHING
about your tank, even if they have experience in fish keeping. I
hear story after story about things that have gone wrong with
peoples aquariums after they had been looked after by
someone who knew about aquariums, while they were away. It
is safer to assume that your friends dont know anything about aquariums and write
everything down, regardless of their experience. Remember, no one knows your tank
like you do. Feeding If you are going away for a week or less, you can place in your
tank a seven day food block which will slowly dissolve and release food that will feed
your fish. The block will not dissolve well when the pH is high (above 7.8), but if you
have gluttonous fish like cichlids they will often continuously bite the block, extracting
the food over time even if the block does not dissolve. 14 day blocks are also available.
Another solution is to purchase an auto feeder which sits over the top of your tank and
releases a set amount of food at intervals. If you are planning to use one of these
devices it is worth testing it for a period of time well before you go away to ensure it is
working effectively and is correctly set up. This will also give you an idea of how long
the food you put in it will last. If you are lucky enough to have someone on hand that
can feed your fish, here is a way to make sure your fish get the right amount of food.
Get an ice cube tray and place the amount of food that you would normally feed your
fish every day in each section of the tray. Add any pellets, flakes or frozen food you like,
then add some tank water and freeze the tray. Tell the person to come in every second
day and feed the fish one cube. This way you set the type and amount of food and the
fish are getting half the amount of food that you normally feed. Less food means less
waste for your system to deal with when you are away. It is better to come home to
healthy hungry fish, than to over fed dead fish. Lastly, hide the food container! It is
important not to let your friend get hold of the food jar because despite what you tell
them, people always like to give fish just a little bit more food. Make sure to explain to
the person that it is normal for fish to always seem hungry. Many predatory fish enjoy
eating feeder fish, so you can add an amount of them to the tank before you leave so
your fish can feed on them while you are away. It is important to know your fish well
before deciding whether to do this, as some fish will eat all the fish on the first day and
pollute the tank. Once again, it is worth testing the idea before you leave to see how
your fish will react. Many fish enjoy eating plants so it can be a good idea to add extra
plants to your tank before you leave so your fish can munch on them while you are
away if they get hungry.
Lighting If you dont have plants or corals you can keep the lights off while you are
away. If you do need lights, it is best to have them on a timer, running slightly less light
than normal.
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Filters If you are away for more than a week, you may have to teach the person
minding your tank how to clean your filter. In most cases this will not need to be done
for at least two weeks. Using a quality mechanical media like Polyfilter is a good idea
because it does not clog as easily. Make sure you replace any cartridge or carbon filters
before you go. Water quality Think about what you would normally do during the time
you will be away and leave detailed instructions for anyone looking after your tank. As a
precaution, add a heavy dose of Easylife to help stabilize the water while you are away.
If you follow the advice above and only have your tank fed half as much food as normal,
the water quality should remain normal during this time. Just before you leave, do a
water change and clean your gravel using a gravel siphon to further minimise any
potential water quality problems.
Trace elements Most aquarium systems can do without trace element feeds for a short
period of time. If you will only be away a few weeks, this should not be a problem. Back
up Keep some Prime handy and tell your friend to add some to the tank if they are
worried about anything. You cannot overdose Prime and it will fix many general
problems in an aquarium. Easylife can also be dosed heavily before you go away and
while youre away. Having a battery powered air pump handy can be a great idea,
because if there is a power outage while you are away, someone else can at least add
oxygen, which will help keep the fish alive for the short time until the power is returned.
If you have an expensive set up it is worth installing an alarm on the power supply, so
you will be notified if the power is interrupted. This will allow you to take action before
you lose stock. Lastly, leave a Majestic Aquariums business card with the person
looking after your tank so that they can get advice if needed. It is also worth leaving the
details of a maintenance person that can do 24 hour emergency call outs if necessary.
Checklist
Purchas feeding block or autofeeder or prepare ice cubes
Consider adding feeder fish for predators
Stock up on plants
Set light timer
Clean your filter
Add buffer
Add a heavy dose of Easylife which will help stabilize the water while you are away
Double dose Prime
Do a water change using a gravel siphon
Replace mechanical filtration and consider a high quality media like Polyfilter
Purchase a battery powered air pump Now youre set. Just enjoy your holiday! I
hope these hints help give you peace of mind while you are away.
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7 TIPS TO LOWER THE MAINTENANCE OF YOUR

AQUARIUM!
You will not believe how easy your aquarium is to look after
with these 7 tips!
Aquariums have a reputation of being hard to maintain, but
this is simply no longer true! Traditionally the water quality of
your aquarium was directly related to the amount of water
changes that you did. With our busy life styles we just dont
have the time to commit to heavy maintenance plans, but we
still want the best for our fish! Over time unprocessed fish
food, fish waste, nitrate, phosphate and other harmful
chemicals accumulate in the water creating chemical
unbalances and lowering the pH to the detriment of your fish.
Now you can use these 7 points and be amazed by the results!
1 Ensure that you feed less food by only feeding your fish New Life Spectrum fish
food. New Life Spectrum is balanced at the absorption rate of the fish creating
almost no waste! This food can be fed to all fish: it has everything that they need
and nothing that they dont, so you dont have to feed as much of it. You only
need to feed what they get in 30sec 5 times per week.
2 Traditional filter media break high level fish waste (ammonia) into low level fish
waste (nitrate), so you could say it breaks something you dont want into
something else that you dont want. Therefore the water quality of the aquarium
is determined by the amount of water changes that you do to get rid of the low
level waste. Upgrade your media to Marine Pure because it is the best biological
media on the market, offering parallel denitrifying bacteria which also break down
the nitrate, converting it to nitrogen gas! Ensure that the transition is done over a
period of weeks to ensure that your system is not temporarily depleted of
bacteria. Also be patient because denitrification takes several months to
establish.
3 Over time chemicals and particles of detritus will accumulate in the aquarium.
Filter wool can be used to trap detritus which regularly needs replacing to stop it
from being clogged. Start using Polyfilter it is an amazing water polisher that
clings the particles, so it does not clog and removes noxious chemicals from the
water stopping them from building up over time reducing your need for water
changes. After a period of months the Polyfilter will turn black signalling that it
needs to be replaced.
4 Over time the substrate and filter media becomes full of detritus which can lead
to old tank syndrome with the build up of toxic hydrogen sulphide! Now you can
Detox your aquarium using Aquarium Detox! Aquarium Detox is a blend of
bacteria from mud that actually eats the detritus, reducing the need for substrate
and filter cleaning and helps prevent toxic hydrogen sulphide.
5 Over time your water parameters will become imbalanced and you will start to
form negative types of bacteria which can be detrimental to your fish. Easylife is
a blend of mineral that affects the molecular structure of your water, holding in all
the good and precipitating all of the bad elements creating a more balanced
Page 125
crystal clear environment for your fish. Easylife is the only product on the market
that has a positive charge so it encourages the good bacteria and reduces
negative bacteria which can cloud your water and affect your fish. Easylife is also
available as a gravel (ERB gravel)!
6 Most fish thrive in slightly alkaline water but, over time the pH and kH will drop
resulting in fish loss. Texas Holey Rock is the best looking rock in the world and it
contains buffers that will help prevent your water from becoming acidity.
7 Aquariums really are an amazing hobby and the more that you learn about your
aquarium the more successful you will be. Passion is governed by knowledge so
make sure that you get a copy of Your Instructional Aquarium Guide DVD by
Paul Talbot, it is the easiest way to make sure that you get the best experience.
Page 126
TROPICAL AQUARIUM HINTS

Catfish such as plecostomus will clean the glass for you or
you will have to clean the glass weekly with an algae
magnet or aquarium safe sponge. Polyfilter is perfect for
cleaning the glass because it will also remove the algae
from the tank, not just move it off the glass.
Scavenging Catfish such as Synodontis will help to keep the bottom clean.
Change 20% of the water per 4 weeks using a gravel siphon (away from the base of
any plants). The use of products such as Marine Pure filter media and Polyfilter
will reduce your need for water changes.
Never change more than 1/2 of the water at a time as it can stress the fish. Make
sure the new water is the right temperature before adding it to the aquarium.
Feed a maximum of what they can eat in 30sec, ensuring that you can`t see one
spec after 30sec - once a day, in the morning, 5 times per week. If you feed New
Life Spectrum fish foods, it will reduce waste in the aquarium and enhance fish
health and colour. It is the best food on the market. Only one person should feed the
fish.
Add 1 teaspoon of aquarium salt per 5lt of tank water.
Test pH weekly and keep it 7.0 (green) if ph is green or yellow do water change and
buff water using kH generator.
test kit.
Add double dose of Easy-life water ager to any tap water. Add a dose of Easy-life
fluid filter media weekly to help stabilise and balance the water.
Never clean gravel in tap water, once it is in an established tank.
Set heater to 25 C.
Mainly have the light on when you are viewing the tank. If you have plants have the
lights on for 8-10 hours per day.
Always over filter the tank.
releasing them into the tank.
Place a bit of polyfilter in the filter or in the water of the tank and replace it when it
Ensure the tank has adequate surface agitation.
Page 127
If you have live plants replace you light tubes yearly and use flourish Excel for CO2
and Flourish for Iron.
Page 128
REEF AQUARIUM HINTS

Snails, abalone, hermit crabs, Blennies and Tangs will clean
the glass for you or you will have to clean the glass weekly
with an algae magnet or aquarium safe sponge. Polyfilter is
perfect for cleaning the glass because it will also remove the
algae from the tank, not just move it off the glass. Algae are a
result of elevated phosphate. Use a phosphate remove, most
of the time to reduce algae problems.
Scavenging cucumbers, urchins and shrimp will help to keep
the bottom clean.
Watch that the dominant fish is not to aggressive.
Never add fish you have introduced fish in the last month.
Change 20% of the water per 4 weeks using a gravel siphon. The use of products
such as Marine Pure filter media and Polyfilter will reduce your need for water
changes.
Never change more than 1/2 of the water at a time as it can stress the fish. Make
sure the new water is the right temperature and salt level before adding it to the
aquarium.
Feed a maximum of what they can eat in 30sec, ensuring that you can`t see one
spec after 30sec - once a day, in the morning, 5 times per week. If you feed New
Life Spectrum fish foods, it will reduce waste in the aquarium and enhance fish
health and colour. It is the best food on the market. Only one person should feed the
fish.
Ensure salt level is maintained about 1.020 when you are adding new fish, but 1.024
when no new fish are being added.
Test pH weekly and keep it 8.4 if ph is low do water change and buff water using a
kH generator.
test kit.
Best to use R.O water for top ups or add double dose of Easy-life water ager to any
tap water. Add a dose of Easy-life fluid filter media weekly to help stabilise and
balance the water.
Never clean sand in tap water, once it is in an established tank.
Set heater to 25 C.
Have the light on 10 hours per day and replace the light tubes yearly.
Dose trace elements weekly.
Always over filter the tank.
Page 129
releasing them into the tank. Add a cup of tank water per 5 minutes to the bag.
Place a bit of polyfilter in the filter or in the water of the tank and replace it when it
Ensure the tank 14 time per hour water flow and has adequate surface agitation.
Page 130
RED SEA REEF CALANDAR EXAMPLE

This calendar is assuming that you received a Red Sea Max tank
for Christmas 2010 and you start setting it up on the 1st of January
2011. By simply entering your start date it will synchronise your
Max Calendar and instruct you through each step of your Max
aquarium set up and maintenance. This will teach you how to run
an amazing Red Sea Max having to really only 1 quick thing a day!
We can have a function of the app for 130 and 250 tanks so it
works out all the doses for you. This is just an example of the idea; we can line up dates
that make sense, when we decide what to do with the idea. This will give you some
ideas on what to add to have a perfect reef tank.
Activities for January
1st Watch Instructional Max DVD provided in the box, and be sure to refer to it as
often as you need.
2nd Unpack your Red Sea Max tank and set it up according to the Instructional DVD
provided, to the point where it is running and full of water with a salinity of 1.020.
3rd Check that the salinity is 1.020 and that the temperature is 25C and then add
10-15kg of live rock. As you complete any of your tests be sure to add the results to
your iphone app for future reference, to receive your next instruction.
4th Add a standard dose of Red Sea NitroBac to increase the colonies of good
bacteria. Keep it in the fridge once you have opened it. As you add any supplements
to the tank, be sure to add them into your Max app for future reference.
5th Check Ammonia and nitrite levels and add a standard dose of Red Sea
Molybdenum to aid the growth of your good bacteria. During the set up phase you
should check your protein skimmer daily. It is advisable to have a reduced period of
light each day until the tank gets coral to reduce algae.
6th Double check salt level and correct it if necessary. Expect lots of brown algae
growth, often created by silicate especially if you did not use R.O water. R.O water is
water that has been treated using a reverse osmosis filter to purify tap water. This
algae will soon give way to a green algae, which is because of phosphate.
7th Check pH and do a 25% water change using Red Sea Coral Pro Salt mixed in
R.O water if your pH is below 7.8. This will lower your ammonia at the same time as
raising your pH. Dont add Buff to raise pH until your ammonia level is zero, because
the increased pH will make the Ammonia more toxic.
8th Check Ammonia and Nitrite. Clean and remove any algae build up on the glass.
9th Clean out Protein skimmer, paying attention to the inside of the cone where the
foam develops. If you experience micro bubbles when the skimmer is on you must
find where the water is not passing and creating back pressure e.g. a dirty sponge.
bacteria. Replace filter wool if Dirty.
11th Check that you have a maximum amount of surface agitation provided by the 2
circulation pumps and ensure you are not getting a build up of surface film.
Page 131
12th Clean the cover under the lights and ensure the light can pass it perfectly.
Check pH and Alkalinity and add a standard dose of Red Sea Buff if the pH is under
8.4 and the Alkalinity is under 4 meq/L.
14th Clean and remove any algae build up off the glass. Clean the strainer on the
filter inlet.
15th Top up water level with R.O water any time you notice the water level drop,
which will often result in micro bubbles being created in the tank. Clean out Protein
skimmer, paying attention to the inside of the cone where the foam develops.
16th Clean the glass in the aquarium using an aquarium safe sponge, aiming to
remove the algae out of the tank, not just wipe it off allowing it to stay in the tank.
Clean pre-filter after every time you clean the tank.
17th Stir the reef base and wave your hand over the rock to remove any sediment.
Add a standard dose of Red Sea NitroBac to increase the colonies of good bacteria.
18th Clean off any dust that may have settled on the fans and grills.
19th Wipe over the complete top of the tank to prevent the accumulation of salt
creep.
20th Ensure that your temperature and pH is correct then check that your ammonia
and nitrite levels are zero and that your nitrate and phosphate levels are low so you
can add your coral.
21st Add your coral! You may choose to add as little or as much as you wish! From
this point on you can add to the coral stocks any time that you wish providing that
your water quality is good.
22nd Clean out Protein skimmer, paying attention to the inside of the cone where the
foam develops. Check that none of your corals are stinging each other and move
them if so.
23rd Check that your corals are opening properly and move them to a new position
in the tank if they are not, considering the light levels and water flow. Some corals
can take over a week to start to open.
bacteria. Check pH and Alkalinity is not falling over time.
25th Keep your salinity at 1.020 in a new tank when you are adding fish, but you
may decide to slowly increase your salinity when your fish are established and
settled in, because your corals will prefer the salinity higher e.g. 1.026.
26th Check all pumps are flowing perfectly and clean out impellers if not.
27th Clean and remove any algae build up off the glass. Replace filter wool if Dirty.
foam develops. Check that your salinity is 1.020 so that you are ready for the fish.
31st Replace your Red Sea Reef Carbon and any phosphate media.
February
1st Watch Instructional Max DVD again, and be sure to refer to it as often as you
need. Dose Calcium + 3 weekly from now on to ensure healthy levels of Calcium are
maintained.
Page 132
2nd If your corals are not looking good and your fish are happy it is worth increasing
your salinity slowly to 1.026. If your fish are ever sick it is worth lowering your salinity
slowly back to 1.020. You will find that the coral opens better at higher salinity, but
fish will settle in better in low salinity. Consider raising your salinity in weeks that you
are not adding fish to 1.026.
3rd Watch to ensure that your fish are not picking on your corals. Totally clean out
the impeller and housing in your 2 circulation pump and in the skimmer pump.
4th Check that all your coral is happy, opening nicely, so it is not being stung by
other corals! Stir the reef base and wave your hand over the rock to remove any
sediment.
Molybdenum to aid the growth of your good bacteria. Check your protein skimmer.
6th Double check salt level and correct it if necessary. Still expect lots of brown
algae growth, often called silicate especially if you do not use R.O water for top ups,
this algae will soon give way to a green algae. Add a standard dose of Red Sea
Molybdenum to aid the growth of your good bacteria
7th Check pH. Dont add Buff to raise pH until your ammonia level is zero, because
the increased pH will make the Ammonia more toxic.
8th Check Ammonia and Nitrite. Clean and remove any algae build up off the glass.
foam develops. Check that all your coral is happy, opening nicely, so it is not being
stung by other corals!
bacteria. Replace filter wool if Dirty.
circulation pumps and ensure you are not getting a build up of surface film.
12th Clean the cover under the lights and ensure the lights can pass it perfectly.
8.4 and the Alkalinity is under 4 meq/L, if ammonia level is zero.
13th Expect a lot of green algae once the brown algae starts to subside. The green
algae is controlled over time using effect phosphate removing media.
14th Add a standard dose of Red Sea Molybdenum to aid the growth of your good
bacteria Clean the strainer on the filter inlet.
skimmer, paying attention to the inside of the cone where the foam develops.
Replace filter wool if Dirty.
18th Clean off any dust that may have settled on the fans and grills.
Page 133
creep.
20th Ensure that you temperature and pH is correct then check that your ammonia
and nitrite levels are zero and that your nitrate and phosphate levels are low. Clean
and remove any algae build up off the glass.
21st Check that all your coral is happy, opening nicely, so it is not being stung by
other corals! You may choose to add as little or as much as you wish! From this
point on you can add to the coral stocks any time that you wish providing that your
water quality is good.
them if so. Add a standard dose of Red Sea Molybdenum to aid the growth of your
good bacteria
in the tank if they are not, considering the light levels and water flow.
bacteria. Check pH and Alkalinity is not falling over time.
25th Keep your salinity at 1.020 in a new tank when you are adding fish, but you
may decide to slowly increase your salinity when your fish are established and
settled in, because your corals will prefer the salinity higher e.g. 1.026.
26th Check all pumps are flowing perfectly and clean out impellers if not. Clean out
Protein skimmer, paying attention to the inside of the cone where the foam develops.
Clean and remove any algae build up off the glass.
27th Replace filter wool if Dirty. Check that your salinity is 1.026 if the fish are settled
in and established. Lower your salt level to 1.020 if your fish are sick or if you are
introducing new fish to the tank. Fish handle being introduced into lower salinity,
much better than they do into higher.
Check that all your coral is happy, opening nicely, so it is not being stung by other
corals! Replace your Red Sea Reef Carbon and any phosphate media.
March
1st Watch Instructional Max DVD again, and be sure to refer to it as often as you
need. Start using your trace elements. Dose the tank with Red Sea Success
supplements. With all types add 5ml for Max 130 and 10ml for Max 250 tanks per
dose per week, to maintain adequate levels. Dose daily when the level needs to be
increased. Add a dose of Calcium +3 to help provide stable calcium levels for your
coral. Use Calcium if you have to raise the level, if you get a low reading.
2nd If your corals are not looking good and your fish are happy it is worth increasing
your salinity slowly to 1.026. If your fish are ever sick it is worth lowering your salinity
slowly back to 1.020. You will find that the coral opens better at higher salinity, but
fish will settle in better in low salinity. Consider raising your salinity in weeks that you
are not adding fish to 1.026. Providing that you have maintained a zero phosphate
level your green algae should be starting to reduce and will be getting replaced by
an amazing purple coralline algae. If the phosphate level is present then the green
Page 134
algae will continue. If the phosphate level is high a red slime algae may appear
which will be very unsightly. Controlling your phosphate and ensuring it is zero is the
key to having an algae free tank. If you are getting algae and your phosphate level is
zero you still need to start using more or better phosphate removers. Add a dose of
Buffer to help provide stable pH levels for your aquarium. Never add buff when you
have ammonia. If you have low pH and ammonia first do a water change.
3rd Watch to ensure that your fish are not picking on your corals. Totally clean out
the impeller and housing in your 2 circulation pump and in the skimmer pump. Dose
coral trace to ensure your corals get a stable supply of trace elements essential for
their long term health. Dose Magnesium to help the growth of your coral and to allow
stable Calcium, pH and kH levels.
4th Check that all your coral is happy, opening nicely, so it is not being stung by
other corals! Stir the reef base and wave your hand over the rock to remove any
sediment. Dose Green to ensure that your macro algaes get the iron that they
require to flourish.
Molybdenum to aid the growth of your good bacteria. Check your protein skimmer.
Add a dose of Vita to ensure that your fish are receiving the vitamins that they need
to allow maximum health and colour.
6th Double check salt level and correct it if necessary. Still expect lots of brown
algae growth, often called silicate especially if you do not use R.O water for top ups,
this algae will soon give way to a green algae. Add a standard dose of Red Sea
Molybdenum to aid the growth of your good bacteria. Dose Iodine to help suppress
bacteria infects and aid the immune system of fish and coral.
7th Check pH. Dont add Buff to raise pH until your ammonia level is zero, because
the increased pH will make the Ammonia more toxic. Dose Coral Trace,
8th Check Ammonia and Nitrite. Add a dose of Calcium +3 to help provide stable
calcium levels for your coral. Clean and remove any algae build up off the glass.
foam develops. Check that all your coral is happy, opening nicely, so it is not being
stung by other corals! Add a dose of Buffer to help provide stable pH levels for your
aquarium.
bacteria. Replace filter wool if Dirty. Dose Strontium to help your corals form, namely
your small polyp stony coral.
circulation pumps and ensure you are not getting a build up of surface film. Dose
Green. Dose Magnesium.
12th Clean the cover under the lights and ensure the lights can pass it perfectly.
8.4 and the Alkalinity is under 4 meq/L, if ammonia level is zero. Add a dose of Vita
13th Expect a lot of green algae once the brown algae starts to subside. The green
algae is controlled over time using effect phosphate removing media. Dose Iodine.
Page 135
14th Add a standard dose of Red Sea Molybdenum to aid the growth of your good
bacteria Clean the strainer on the filter inlet. Dose coral trace.
skimmer, paying attention to the inside of the cone where the foam develops. Add a
dose of Calcium +3 to help provide stable calcium levels for your coral.
Replace filter wool if Dirty. Dose Green.
18th Clean off any dust that may have settled on the fans and grills. Add a dose of
Buffer to help provide stable pH levels for your aquarium.
creep.
20th Ensure that you temperature and pH is correct then check that your ammonia
and nitrite levels are zero and that your nitrate and phosphate levels are low. Clean
and remove any algae build up off the glass. Dose Iodine.
21st Check that all your coral is happy, opening nicely, so it is not being stung by
other corals! You may choose to add as little or as much as you wish! From this
point on you can add to the coral stocks any time that you wish providing that your
water quality is good. Dose Strontium. Dose coral trace.
them if so. Add a standard dose of Red Sea Molybdenum to aid the growth of your
good bacteria Add a dose of Vita
in the tank if they are not, considering the light levels and water flow. Dose
Magnesium.
bacteria. Check pH and Alkalinity is not falling over time. Add a dose of Calcium +3
to help provide stable calcium levels for your coral.
25th Add a dose of Buffer to help provide stable pH levels for your aquarium. Keep
your salinity at 1.020 in a new tank when you are adding fish, but you may decide to
slowly increase your salinity when your fish are established and settled in, because
your corals will prefer the salinity higher e.g. 1.026.
26th Check all pumps are flowing perfectly and clean out impellers if not. Clean out
Protein skimmer, paying attention to the inside of the cone where the foam develops.
Clean and remove any algae build up off the glass. Dose Green.
27th Replace filter wool if Dirty. Check that your salinity is 1.026 if the fish are
settled in and established. Lower your salt level to 1.020 if your fish are sick or if you
are introducing new fish to the tank. Fish handle being introduced into lower salinity,
much better than they do into higher. Dose Iodine.
Page 136
Check that all your coral is happy, opening nicely, so it is not being stung by other
corals! Replace your Red Sea Reef Carbon and any phosphate media. Dose coral
trace.
30th Use a pipe cleaner to clean out the pipe running into your chiller.
Monthly maintenance
31st April Totally clean out the impeller and housing in your 2 circulation pump and
in the skimmer pump.
30 May 31 June Use a pipe cleaner to clean out the pipe running into your chiller.
Totally clean out the impeller and housing in your 2 circulation pump and in the
skimmer pump.
30 July Replace your Max light tubes, as by now the spectrum and intensity would
be decreasing. This will not be visible to the naked eye.
31 August Totally clean out the impeller and housing in your 2 circulation pump and
31 September Use a pipe cleaner to clean out the pipe running into your chiller.
30 October Totally clean out the impeller and housing in your 2 circulation pump and
31 November Re-gas your chiller as it may be starting to run inefficiently.
30 December Use a pipe cleaner to clean out the pipe running into your chiller.
Totally clean out the impeller and housing in your 2 circulation pump and in the
skimmer pump.
Page 137

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Question and Answers The Tank

Red Sea Reef Calandar example ................................................................................ 131

white. Budding- is where an organism divides as a way of reproduction. Buffer capacity-

THE 12 POINT GUIDE TO THE ULTIMATE AQUARIUM

11. Log Book

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS FOR AUSTRALIA AQUARIUM

COMMONLY OVERLOOKED REEF AQUARIUM PROBLEMS

Why are tropical reef fish the most colourful fish?

Is it damaging to the reefs for us to keep marine tanks?

Can you breed saltwater fish?

Can fish see in colour?

Can fish smell?

Can fish hear?

How do you measure a fish?

How long do fish live?

What happens if there is a blackout / power failure?

SHOULD I GET A REEF TANK OR A FISH ONLY TANK?

How hard is it to keep a saltwater fish only tank?

How hard is it to keep an invert only tank?

Is a saltwater fish only tank easier than a reef tank?

Can I try any invertebrates in a tank that is essentially fish only?

QUESTIONS ON SETTING UP SALTWATER TANKS

Where should I place the aquarium?

How high should I fill up the tank?

Is there any problem placing your hand into the tank?

5 STEP LADDER TO AQUARIUM SUCCESS

Step 3 Fish, Plant and Coral Selection

Step 4 - Food and Supplements

TOP 13 AQUARIUM TIPS

TOO MUCH OR NOT ENOUGH?

TOP 9 AQUARIUM MYTHS - BUSTED!

2. They cost too much to run?

3. They use a lot of power?

5. They are hard to look after?

7. Many people think fish are boring?

8. You cant go away on holidays

9. My cat will eat them

SAFELY MOVING AN AQUARIUM?

What are the advantages of a hood?

What are the disadvantages of a hood?

How many heaters should you have?

What type of heaters is there?

Can you fix a heater?

Does the cap of the heater need to be out of the water?

What happens if the thermometer breaks in the tank?

CO2 INJECTION SYSTEMS

Want is the advantages of a CO2 injection system?

Want is the disadvantages of a CO2 injection system?

Can you fix a broken water pump?

Can you run a water pump dry?

What problems can water pumps cause?

Where should you place the air pump?

What problems can air pumps cause?

Can I use clear piping?

Can I use copper piping?

How should I go about setting up the plumbing?

How do you stop flexible pipe from kinking?

Should I use check valves?

What is the advantage of a wave maker?

What are the disadvantages of simulating tides?

How do you simulate tides?

How do you make a chiller?