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Yarn Evenness
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Subhankar Maity
Department of Textile Technology, Dr B R Ambedkar National lnstitute of Technology, Jalandhar, Punjab 144 0,t1, lndia
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certain amount of variation is also distribution of flbre ends in the resultant Increasingly, it is the CV or CV% value
present along the chase of cop. yarn. We call this yarn an ideal yarn, and that gets used for this purpose. For a
still the yarn is having some irregularity fault-free yarn with random variations in
Strength variability and it is called limiting irregularity. thickness or linear density, the following
An irregular yarn will also vary in Limiting irregularity is therefore the relationship exists between the U value
strength along the yarn. The weak link minimum irregularity that we must expect and the CV value.
theory says a yarn is only as strong as from any real yarn or other fibre assem- CT/:1,25U
its weakest point. When there are large blies. A thorough understanding ofthe We can measure the U and CV values
variations in yarn lrnear density, there will concept of limiting irregularity is essential of a fibre assembly by Uster Evenness
be many thin plaies in the yarn, which for the understanding of yarn evenness in Tester at a high speed.
are often the weak points. Yarn breaks at particular, and yarn quality in general. The limiting irregularity can be
the weakest element and so yarns with expressed as a CV value, denoted as CV*
high strength variability will result in high
timiting irregularity such that,
breakages in further processes. A common method of expressing the 100
CI/1;^=_i
irregularity of a yarn is to use the -.1 n
Theoretical aspects of statistical term CV or coefficient of Where, n is the average number of
evenness variation. Obviously the higher the CV fibres in yarn cross section. Also, it
A fibre assembly such as lap, sliver, value, the more irregular the yarn is. The can be expressed as:
roving or yarn is said to be perfectly traditional way of obtaining the CV value
100 i +0.0001Cirrl
even when the constituent fibres are is to dissect a length of yarn into many ct\,,^ =
J;
uniform in thickness and the assembly short sections of equal length, say 1 cm,
where, CVu is the coefficient of
variation of fibre cross sectional area.
These expressions indicate that the
number of fibres in yarn cross section
is the most important factor that
determines the irregularity of a yarn.
Irregularity increases with a reduction
in the number o[ fibres in yarn cross
Fig 1 : A perfe<:tly even fibre assembly section. The fibre variability also has
some effect on the irregularity value. But
has the same number of fibres in all and then weigh each of the short different fibre types vary considerably in
cross sections along its length as sections. Assuming we have dissected a
terms of fibre variability.
shown in Fig,1. yarn into n short sections, and the
In case of blend yarns where
Natural fibres such as cotton and weights of these sections are: x1, x2, x3
constituent fibres are randomlY
wool always exhibit variations in ..... xn respectively. From these readings
distributed, limiting irregularity can be
thickness along fibre length. And it is we can easily calculate the following
calculated. For a given count of the
not possible to obtain a structure such statistics regarding the yarn:
blend yarn Tb, and the blend ratio of
that as one fibre terminates, another e The mean or average:
fibre component Bi, the count of each
must be introduced to take its place to f, ,x- I-x,+.......+r, Ir, component Ti can be calculated by:
obtain same number of fibres in all
Tbx Bi
cross sections. Because of the variable o The rtu.raula deviatiorf: Il--
100
nature of fibres, particularly natural
fibres, and the difficulty with individual
F*"
,r
Once we know the count of each
! component yarn, the limiting irregularity
fibre placement in the fibre assembly
o The coefficient of variation: of the blend yarn of n fibre components
using current technology, a perfectly
CV=! xl}O% is given as follows,
even yarn is unattainable in practice.
Therefore, a real yarn would always have
v .,fr cl'-.r t' + tc v,,,^xT,l2 -
o The percentage mean deviation I Yta't*"a =
..... I (CV,h, Tnl
some irregularity in linear density,
(known as the U% value in textiles) T,
because the way fibres are arranged
deviates from what's required to make a
Index of Irregularity (I)
perfectly even yarn.
To achieve an even yarn random Iibre It is clear from the above concept of
distribution is a key objective throughout limiting irregularity that number of
the different processes involved in The CV thus calculated will be the fibres present in yarn cross-section
successive stages of yarn manufacturing. measured CV or effective CV. It is the plays a decisive role on yarn irregularity.
If all processes perform perfectly, we will actual CV of the yarn concerned. The Due to this, a coarse yarn always be
end up with a completely random U% value is listed here for completeness. more even than that of a thinner yarn
made from similar fibres and under further processing. This indicates that into a thinner roving, and a roving is
similar processing conditions. However, the fibre assembly is increasingly drafted to yarn thickness during
it cannot be justified that coarser yarn approaching an ideal one. In other spinning. The net result is a reduction in
is always better in terms of evenness words, with further processing, the fibre lhe number ol libres in yarn cross
than that of the finer yarn. The limiting ends distribution is getting more and section. In addition, the process itself
irregularity provides a reference point more random. At the yarn stage, the may introduce additional irregularities to
and it changes with yarn count. A fair index of irregularity is approaching one, the drafted material. Mathematically, if a
comparison of yarn quality in terms of suggesting that the yarn is approaching fibre assembly enters a drafting process
evenness between similar yarns of an ideal yarn. (roving, spinning) with an irregularity of
different counts is to see how close the On the other hand, there is a general CVr, and emerges from that process with
actual CV of each yarn is to its trend for the effective (or actual) CV of an irregularity of CV",,, then the addi-
respective limit that is the limiting the fibre assemblies to increase during tional irregularity due to the process
irregularity. It is a measure of the degree fibre to yarn processing, with the CV of itself (CV"uu) can be worLed out using the
to which the mass variations of a yarn the resultant yarn higher than the following formula:
deviates from the ideal yarn with random roving's and the slivers'. This is a CV2 -, =CV2 , + CV2.aa or
fibre ends distribution. The index of reflection of the decreasing thickness of
irregularity provides such a measure. It the fibre assemblies, and reducing ctr,r, = ,lctr" *, - cv\,
is defined as the ratio between the actual number of fibres in the cross section of The added irregularity comes from
(measured, effective) irregularity and the the fibre assemblies. At the yarn stage, two sources - reduction in the number
limiting irregularity for the yarn or other the number of fibres in the cross of fibres in cross section and imperfect
fibre assemblies. section is the lowest, hence the CV of the drafting.
yarn is the highest. Unlike the CV% and
ct/-
(]t Measurement of yarn
I- Uolo values, the index of irregularity (I) is
CVr,* unevenness
independent of the count of the fibre
where, assembly. This makes it an ideal tool for The fundamental method of yarn
I = Index of irregulaity use in the control chart. For instance, if evenness testing is to dissect the fibre
CV"rr = Elfective (actual, measured) the I value is obtained at the roving stage assembly into many short sections and
irregularity for every processing lot and plotted on a weigh each section, and then calculate
CV,* = Limiting irregularitY control chart, abnormalities may be the CV of the fibre assembly from the
The index of irregularity is a easily identified before the final spinning weights of the individual sections. This
dimensionless parameter. In the ideal stage. manual cutting and weighing method is a
case, I = 1. Since the actual CV of a very tedious and time consuming pro-
Reduction and addition of cess when your yarn sample is suffici-
yarn is almost always higher than its
limiting CV the I value is usually greater
irregularities ently long enough. Instead, now-a-days
than 1. The higher the I, the worse the One of the objects of doubling is to there are instruments available to
yarn is in evenness, regardless of the reduce the irregularity. If 'n' strands of
yarn count. Like limiting irregularity, the material, each having the same
index of irregularity also applies to fibre coefficient of variation, are doubled, The limiting irregularity
assemblies other than yarns. then the coefficient of variation of the provides a reference point and it
combined strands is given by, changes with yarn count.
Cljef Aeldli' !+ssr{i
.u =&
.t;
where, determine yarn unevenness. Uster AG, a
CI4 = CY of all n slivers at the input textile instrument manulacturer based in
to the drawframe Switzerland, has produced generations of
CIt = Mean value of the CV values of evenness testing instrument for rapid
all the single slivers measurement of the evenness of various
E R&irE Y;rr
Csrfr{r *.aui il:! fibre assemblies. Uster Evenness Tester
siEi tll & 2tr
ct, - C[a+ C'[/2+....+CV,, 3, 4 or 5 are widely used in this regard.
Fig 2 : Changes in CV and I values through n = number of doubled slivers. The Uster Evenness Tester measures
processing stages of cotton yarn
production That is why the measured CV (CV) of mass variations along the length of a
the cotton sliver gradually reduces from fibre assembly. It is based on the capaci-
Fig 2 shows changes in CV and I of carding,to 2nd drawing, and then the CV tance principle as depicted in Fig 4. The
the fibre assemblies at different stages of increases again after the roving and two capacitors detect the mass
the fibre to yarn conversion. It is worth spinning stages as shown in Fig 2. variations or weight per unit length
noting that the trends for CV and I are At the roving and spinning stage, variations of the fibre assembly running
quite different. I gradually decreases with there is no doubling. A sliver is drafted between them. These variations are
corporate level. The key quality moving target. As technology improves evenness, including Uster Statistics
attributes of yarns considered in Uster quality standards also change. which is considcred to be one of the
statistics are: Yarn count variation strongest.
(between bobbins or packages), Mass Conclusion
variation (U% and CV%), Imperfections References
(thick and thin places, neps), Uster Non-uniformity in variety of 1 B P Saville, Physical testing oftextiles,
Hairiness Index and Tensile properties properties exists in yarns. There can be 1999, Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC
(strength and elongation). variation twist, bulk, strength, elonga- Press LLC, Cambridge CBI 6AH England
However, it need to be mentioned here tion, fineness etc. Yarn evenness deals 2 Anonymous, Working with the Uster
that there are restrictions on the with the variation in yarn fineness. This Statistics, https://www.uster.colr, acce-
interpretation and application of Uster is the property, commonly measured, as ssed on 1 5th March, 201 7
Statistics. Uster Statistics do not provide the variation in mass per unit length 3 Anonyrrous, Uster Statistic Application
direct access to information about the along the yarn, is a basic and impor- handbook 201 3, httyts l lwww. uster.com,
raw materials used in spinning. Good tant one, since it can influence so accessed on 15th March, 2017
quality, more expensive libres are usually many other properties of the yarn and ,1 Anonymous, http://www.textilegence.-
spun into good quality yarns. Therefore, of fabric made from it. Such variations com/en/uster-statistics-201 3- is-out-on-
a yarn with a CV% below the 5o/o line on are inevitable, because they arise from uster-com/, accessed on 15th March,
the Uster Statistics chart may be the fundamental nature of textile fibres 2017
indicative of a high cost yarn. Similarly, a and from their resulting arrangement. 5 A F W Coulson and M W Townsend,
yarn with a CYo/o value above the 75o/o Irregularity can adversely affect many The assessment of yarn quality, journal
line may not be all that good in terms of of the properties of textile materials. of the textile institute proceedirrgs vol
evenness, but it may be indicative of a The most obvious consequence of 40 ,7,1919
very attractive price and just the right yarn evenness is the variation of stren- 6 C Thilagavathi, T l(arthik, Proccss
quality for the target markets. The Uster gth along the yarn. An Uster evenness Corrtrol and Yarn Cluality irr Spinning,
Statistics is merely a global survey of tester provides a considerable amount Woodhead publishing lndia Pvt Lrd,
yarn quality as produced in every part of of information on the evenness of a 2016, New Delhi
the world. Whether or not these qualities fibre assembly, including single overall 7lOchola, J Kisaro, L Kinurhia, i
are produced economically from results, diagram and spectrogram. Mwasiagi and A Waithaka, 2012, Study
adequate raw materials and offered at a Benchmarking is a very good tool to on the lnfluence of Fiber Properties on
legitimate price is beyond the scope of have competitive advantage. Bench- Yarn lrr-rperfections in Ring Spun Yarns
the Uster Statistics. Yarns intended for marking in textile industry can be done Asian Textile Journal, 2: 3)-43
different end uses have diflerent quality in stages depending on the need to 8 Anonymous, Yarn irregulerr-ity (CVrn,X,),
requirements. For example the overcome competition. It need not be http://www.rieter.com, accessed on
requirements of weaving and knitting restricted to copying the best methods 15th March, 201 7
yarns are often different. Therefore, yarn and standards from others, but it can 9 M Ferkl, Yarn lrregularity, http://www.
quality should be j.udged in the context be internal innovativeness. There are qc1 m.cz/l i n k/neste j nomernost-en. htm,
of its end use. The quality of yarns is a several ways of benchmarking yarn accessed on I 5th March, 201 7. m
malls
country, there are
l in the recent
mall.
Retail Services. JLL lndia. these malls were located in chennai. Mr Renjhen said, osuuE--
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Delhi-NCR. Mumbai and Pune. 'lt was not the first time that the best possible
maintaining rthe p tenant mix and having at least a few
withdrawal of mall space was done;
done, but the.guantum trme wias.
the quantum this time was tenants
tenar from the entertaihinent
ent( and food and beverages (F&B) ',,
far higher than in all previous withdrawals (from the first quarter of categories. lt has been seen in recent years that retailers choose
categ
2010 to the fourth quarter of 2o15) put together.' high-quality malls havrng mixed-use ai the rigrrt locations. Many