DR Wampens World Renowned System of Anthropometry 1903

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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
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Copyright^
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2011 with funding from
The Library of Congress
http://www.archive.org/details/drwampensworldreOOhutc
DR. WAMPEN'S
WORLD RENOWNED
SYSTEM of
ANTHROPOMETRY
AS SIMPLIFIED AND AMERICANIZED BY
J. Happle-Hutcheson
WITH HIS LATEST IMPROVED SET OF THIRTY-SIX
UNIT GRADUATED SCALES
Chicago
J. HAPPLE-HUTCHESON, Publisher
1903
COPYRIGHTED
/<
Q \o
,v\
THE LIBRARY OF
CONGRESS,
Two Copies Received
MAR 9 1903
Copyright Entry
3
Ltr.H~(O[0Z>
CLASS cc XXc. No.
COPY B,
Entered According to Act of Congress, in the Year 1903,

in the office of the librarian at washington.
All Rights Reserved by J. Happle-Hutcheson, Chicago.
2 1,
OUR PREFACE.
To bring a calm contentment to the trou- "improvements" on the unimprovable. In the

bled heart, go forth our book, for thine the year 1864, when working at the same cutting
power. In making up this posy of culled table with the world famous Dr. Thos. Dar-
sartorial bloom, we make no pretence of bring- win Humphreys, who at that time, having
ing anything of our own, except the string conceived the idea of constructing his Angu-
that holds them together ; and if some worm- lator System, we asked him: "In what way
wood be found among the sweeter gems of do you purpose working out an improvement
thought, we sincerely trust that their whole- on the Wampen science?" He promptly an-
someness will make amends for their bitter- swered : "I have a deep rooted conviction that
ness, for be it remembered that when we in- I nor no other man can improve on Dr. Wam-
vite a friend to a feast, it is not all sweet- pen's system of anthropometry; but there are
meats that we set before them ; we also make many in the trade seeking for a something
it a point to provide something sharp and that they cannot get, and my angulator will
salt, both to whet the appetite and cause cause many such who lack analytic ability to
them to taste our wine with increased relish. believe that in my new work they have se-
One of the most prominently interesting char- cured a new principle in cutting, while I
acteristic features of the up-to-date and fain know that I shall only succeed in diverting
would be up-to-date tailor, is his ever insatiable their mind by a mere diversion of method
desire to secure the best, that he may be the obtainable by giving a verticillus twist to the
better able to produce the best. He is ever as construction lines of Wampen's unimprove-
"Belfast"as a young manMr.

anxious to secure the highest class technical able anthropometrical science." Thos.
knowledge obtainable, as he is desirous of Hogg was espe-
obtaining the highest price for his work ; he cially endowed with a trinity of most enviable
delights in wearing the best and most stylish virtues, viz. : a high order of intellectuality,
clothes, he eats the most sumptuous foods, rare technical ability and a full measure of
lives in the most fashionable' of residence dis- industrial concentrative power ; we know of
tricts, he aims at working only for the most whom we speak; we having not only worked
exclusive intellectually refined, stylish and as journeymen on the same shop-board, but
rich ; and when all is secured that is procur- "made halfs together," and were fellow stu-
able, his ambitious aspirations remain unsat- dents of Dr. Wampen's science of anthrop-
isfied; his heart still yearns for a something ometry. Mr. Hogg in. due course became a
newer and better. "Excelsior" is his never popular contributor to our trade journals and
ending refrain. This innate desire of the up- after settling down in Belfast city, he pub-
to-date cutter to attain the unattainable has lished "The Belfast System," a copy of which
caused many of the smart-witted members of got into the hands of one of our popular New
our craft to make a pretence of working out York teachers of cutting and fashion report
PREFACE
publishers, who give a review of "The Belfast a reference to which will inform the reader
System" with most complimentary comments how Dr. Wampen became induced to produce
thereon anent "the new and most perfect his system and thereby teach scientific tailor-
scientically adjusted system of working out ing to tailors. The reader, however, must
the degrees of chest and waist disproportion." ever bear in mind the fact that a knowledge
The review of the work as published was a of how Wampen was induced to construct his
source of much amusement to British cutters, system, and a mere possession of our book
who freely expressed their commiseration for will not endow the owner with a practical
those, who by force of unfortunate circum- scientific knowledge of the art of cutting, and
stances were constrained to receive their tech- that mere rules will never cover the whole mat-
nical education from teachers of cutting, so ter well enough to determine practice without
sublimely- innocent of a knowledge of modern close study, but a careful reading of our in-
scientific sartorial art as to think that in "Bel- structions, and a diligent study of the prac-
fast" incorporating into his system Wam- tical application of the science as we present
pen's science of the degrees of disproportion it, shall never fail to produce the most satis-
that they had landed on a heretofore un- factory results. It has been claimed, and we
known scientically adjusted method of distri- are not in a position to deny it, that there is a
bution of goods for very small and extremely large number of young cutters who have had
large waists, all of which goes to prove how little or no opportunity of ever hearing or
lamentable far behind present day up-to-date knowing anything of the Dr. Wampen science,
methods are the average American teachers of because of the fact of their not being familiar
the art of scientific cutting, many of whom with the higher class current literature of our
are self-conceited, unblushing, brazen-faced trade. Thousands upon thousands of cutters
plagiarists, while a few are honest, well mean- throughout this country, we are told, have
ing men, who have by diligent study suc- never read any technical work except, perhaps,
ceeded to some extent in working out im- some monthly or semi-annual report of fash-
provements on some of the primeval warped ion. Having reason to believe that this is in a
teachings of distorted truths. These men great measure true, we have quoted ex-
never having had an opportunity of seeing or pressions of opinions of a few from among
knowing of the existence of anything better, the many that have from time to time given
we are not inclined to regard them as the will- expression to their views concerning the su-
ful makers of abstract wrong; nevertheless perexcellence of the Wampen system, and in
their panoply of misconception of correct making our selection we have been especially
scientific principles makes them spoilers of careful to quote only men that are well known
concrete right, they having innocently ac- to the trade as TAILORS, whose intellectual-
cepted without analytical research seeming ity, technical knowledge, practical experience
truths that have grown up on some concealed and integrity of character, all combine tot make
root of error. It is but natural for those who their praise valuable and their censure feared.
study and adopt the practice of Dr. Wampen's Commendation being the reflection of virtue,
science to desiresome knowledge of the au- itsbreath is sweet when bestowed by those
thor of such a world famous work we there- ; whose own high merit deserves the praise
fore insert at back of book copy of our world's they give.
fair year lecture on Wampen and his works,
Index
Page Page
Preface G. W. DuNah on the Production of Style 38
Coat Cutting
Scientific Artistic 9 Sartorial Outline Beauty 41
Marvelous Progress of Americans 10 How Measure
to 41
Reverence for the Cutters' Old Stepping Stone. . . .11 A Paradoxical Element in Measuring 42
A Sartorial Art Treasure : 11 There Are No Actual Measurement Systems 42
American Style of Grading an Excellent Bluff. .. .11 Hot Air Bellows 43
Exceptional Intelligence of Cutters 12 Our Initial Alphabetical Auxiliary 43
Antique Divisional Methods 12 Blaming and Damning the Journeyman 44
Common Sense Insufficient 13 A Cracker- Jack Cutter s 44
Dr. Wampen's System Condemned 13 Seven Hundred Suits Per Day 45
Anthropometry 14 John Sandelands Predicts Universal Adoption 45
Glow Worm Light Preferred 14 Gold Medalist James Veale 46
Old Has Beens IS Making Coats by Electricity ; 47
A Dimly Understood Fact 15 Our Risibles Strained 48
Masculine Proportions IS Most Happy Results 48
Grecian Anatomical Errors 16 A Storm of Misfits 48
Many Different Types ofMan. 16 How Does It Happen ? 49
Nationality and Height of Our Soldiers of the Preparing To Draft and How To Do It 50
Civil War 16 Skirts, How to Draft 53
Man's Total Height, Tallest and Shortest Race of Sleeves, How to Draft 53
Men 16
Sleeveology 54
An Approximate Syllabus 18
The Best Test For Accurate Sleeve Adjustment. .55 .
Wampen's Model 18
So Delighted With Wampen's Sleeves 55
Aesthetic Science 19 The Degrees of Disproportion, and How to Work
The Greatest Sartorial Art Scientist 10 Them 56
In the Realm of Real Sartorial Art 20 How to Work the Second Degree of Chest and
The Dressing of All Men Alike 21 Waist 57
Many Acceptable Forms of Elegance 21 Amount of Allowance, For Making Up, of all the
Pick Them Out and Place Them 23 Varied Styles of Coats 57
British Tailors the Most Famous 24 Dress Coat Drafting, etc., etc 58
Complexion and Color Effects 25
Dress Coat Lapels and Individualism 59
Adductive Ability 25
Dress Coat Skirts ,39
Photography and Tailoring 23

Double Breasted Full Dress Prince Albert 60
The Yachtman-Like Doctor 26 The Prince Albert Proper 60

Responsibility of Teachers 26 Prince Albert Skirts 60
Straining His Buttons 27 How to Handle Shoulder and Scye Depth Levels. .61
H. Swigert Tells How and Why He Made His
Just Grown There 27 J.
Mental Wampen Vow 63
The Cutter and Journeyman's Masterpiece 28
How Chas.Stack Slipped a Wampen Cog
J. 63
New York Sartorial Art Horrors 28
The Sacque Coat and How To Draft It 64
The North Pole of Dudeism 29
To Draft the Back 64
Thos. Carlyle's View of Dress 29
To Draft the Forepart 65
Shake Off the Blues 30
The Double-Breasted Sack 66
More in Sarcasm Than Praise 30
The Single-Breasted Chesterfield 67
Historical Paintings and Tailoring 31
The Double-Breasted Chesterfield 67
How Men Should Dress 31
American Hotch Potch of Trade Nomenclature. . .67
The Study of Color Effects 33
Vests, How to Draft, etc., etc 69
The Cutter Like the Doctor 34
High Shoulders and Short Necks 71
Misconception of the Height Theory 34
Long Necks and Sloping Shoulders 71
What Dr. Wampen Says 36
The Great Bulk of the Cutter's Troubles 36
A Tailor With a Record 70
The Hutcheson- Wampen World's Fair Year Lec-
The Impetuous American 36 ture, as Published and Sold to the Trade by
Competing for Cutting Honors 37 the Master Tailors and Custom Cutters' Asso-
Another Man's Brains 38 ciation
EVERY TAILOR HIS OWN TEACHER
SELF-TUITION MADE EASY BY OUR SIMPLIFIED, AMERICANIZED POPULAR
PRICED EDITION OF THE WORLD FAMOUS
DR. WAMPEN'S SYSTEM OF SCIENTIFIC

ARTISTIC COAT CUTTING
Like the blast furnace transforming- a crude brusquely refused to do we shall earnestly en-
mass of ore to' a block of precious metal, the deavor to' accomplish by bringing within the
world renowned Dr. Henerich Wampen's sys- easy grasp of the average intellect of our fel-
tem of anthropometry has reduced the here- low-craftsmen ; this system of cutting, which
tofore crude jumble of the cutters' garbled is universally declared the most profoundly
methods to a truly scientific, simple system potent sartorial art science ever produced.
of absolute accuracy. Unfortunately for the So as to successfully secure the thorough
great bulk of tailors, the learned doctor has accomplishment of our self-imposed task of
couched his system in the most lofty pedantic preventing this richest technical treasure of
phraseology of the learned scientific anatomist, our art from being permitted to' remain un-
and veiled his figures or measurements in known to a very large number of cutters whose
algebraical hieroglyphics, nearly all of which lack of learned anatomical phraseological
are as unintelligible to the average tailor as knowledge bars them from reading Dr. Wan>
the totemic ancestral drawings of our North pen's works understandingly, and also that
American Indians are to the writer. The worthy members of our trade
class of equally
reason why the learned doctor indulged in the whose enfeebled finance deprives them from
use of such a ponderous style of academical the edifying enjoyment that is ever found in
language when writing up his system of draft- the possession of a technical library of the
ing may be partly surmised from the felicitious most complete character, in compiling our
fact of his being financially independent of the book we aim at furnishing these requirements
cash accruement obtainable by a large sale of by eschewing the unnecessary use of Dr.
his work. was not mercenary motives that
It Wampen's learned brain-splitting diction, and
prompted Dr. Wampen to produce his famous selling our book at the lowest margin of profit,
system of anthropometry, but his innate ar- combined with a diligent adherence to the
dor for scientific research. When remonstrated policy of calling a spade a spade, for we do
with anent the imprudence of publishing a not deem it politic to advise our students to
work on scientific cutting, couched in language place the inch tape on the "base of the fourth
so far in advance of the intellectual grasp of cervical vertebra" when we mean the nap-o'-
the rank and file of our trade, he with char- the neck, we say so, nor do we speak of "a
acteristic academic hauteur replied: "Tailors convex dorsal scapula" when we mean a prom-
aspiring the adoption of an absolutely ac- inent shoulder blade, or "the acromin point"
curate, scientifically adjusted system of artis- when we mean the shoulder point, nor "the
tic cutting must read up to me ; I cannot write clavicle" when we mean the collar bone;neither
down to them." What Dr. Wampen so do we advise measuring down to "the base of
10 PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRICAL SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE.
the twelfth dorsal vertebra" when we mean mon error of sycophantic national flattery,
the natural waist. We also know that the as practiced on Americans by foreign visiting
fit and form of a coat front will not be im- diplomats, actors, etc., who "wink with the
proved by advising a cutter to add so much other eye" while they advance the erroneous
on for making up 1
at "the apex of manubrium claim that young America, strong, vigorous,

of sternum, mesosternum and base of xiphi- and full of promise as she is, is also the peer
sternum," when we simply mean the top, the of old Europe in the domain of the higher
middle and bottom of breast bone ; neither do branches of literature, industrial art, and sci-
we believe that a skirt will set with cleaner, ence. We frankly declare our belief that
easier grace because of our directing the cutter such is not the case ; we nevertheless are
to measure over the most prominent point of equally frank in stating that during the last
"glutaeus maxcimus" when we wish him to fifty years, or more perhaps, no' other peoples
take the seat measure. In simplifying Wam- in the world have by adoption, adaption, and
pen's work so that the most unerudite tailor inventions numerous, made such rapid and ro-
may read it understandingly and use it with bust progress from primeval conditions as the
happy success in his every day practice, we Americans have in the arts and science of
draw none of the sap of genius away from it agriculture, mechanical, steam, and electrical
we only prune off the doctor's superfluous engineering, as well as commercial, political,
pedantic anatomical phraseological dead lum- and surgical knowledge and sociological wis-
ber without divesting the system of any of its dom. And while our own trade has to a high
rarity of real scientific, practical virtue. And degree participated in the ripple of this great
we make no pretence whatever at improving progressive whirl, it is nevertheless strangely
the elemental principles of this unimprovable, and grievously discouraging to> note the fossil-
scientifically accurate, anthropometrical sys- ized tenacity with which American teachers of
tem of artistic cutting, for cutting cling to the antique, inaccurate method
of drafting by thirds, fourths, sixths, and
"To gild refined gold, to paint the lily,
and minus an inch, etc., as laid
twelfths, plus
To throw perfume on the violet,
down by making dim indentations on the cor-
To smooth the ice, or add another hue
ner of the common square, or by sets of al-
Unto the rainbow, or with taper-light
phabetic scales methods that were in line
To seek the beauteous eye of Heaven to
with progressive sartorial art when tailors
garnish, wake
were coming out to this country in the
Is wasteful and ridiculous excess."
of the Mayflower.
When brought brow to brow with Dr.
Wampen's sartorial art science, about the best
thing that can with truth be said in favor or

praise concerning these divisional minus and
THE MARVELOUS PROGRESS OF
plus petrified relics of antiquity, which in the
AMERICANS.
tallow-dip age of our profession were received
Our high respect for our own veracity and as marvels of sartorial art, when in 1802
the intelligence of our readers, combined with Duncan MacArra evolved and taught the prin-
a knowledge of indisputable facts, saves us ciple, is that they may be regarded as excellent
from a ridiculous indulgence in the too com- methods for quickening the sense and training
PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRICAL SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE. 11
the judgment a course of study through cient times, when the world is ancient, and
which, on account of the non-progressive not those which we account ancient, ordinc
policy ofAmerican teachers of cutting, many retro grado."
unfortunate young men are compelled to tra-
vel ere they become good cutters. But stormy,
rough, and thorny is the road, with its many A SARTORIAL ART TREASURE.
alterations, misfits, and recriminations numer-
ous, accompanied with voluminous profanity Not to know the Dr. Wampen system is to
while worn', anxiety, doubt, and despondency be in fact destitute of a knowledge of the
galore have to be experienced and endured be- richest treasure of productive sartorial art sci-
fore any degree of proficiency is attainable. ence, enabling the cutter to- select a thirty-six
unit tape for any size from twenty-three to
fifty-two or larger, by which he proceeds to
draft the very small or extremely large with
the same unconcern as if drafting a normal
REVERENCE FOR AN OLD STEPPING thirty-six with the common inch tape.
STONE.
While we keep the antique thirds and AN EXCELLENT BLUFF.

fourths -rule of drafting in reverential remem-
brance as a most excellent old stepping stone In the very face of our much-vaunted tech-
in the progressive march of sartorial art, we nical progress it is still the vogue with Ameri-
freely concede the wisdom of its having been can instructors to teach that most reprehen-
-long since discarded throughout Europe by all sible method of grading sets of block patterns
progressive, up-to-date teachers of cutting by ''staging it" from an accepted perfect thirty-
discarded not because of its being -

old, but six model to an accepted perfect forty model,
because of its inaccuracy and complexity as and so on. While we, in courtesy only, con-
compared with our modern system of abso- fess this old-fashioned dressmakers' method of
lutely true, half-breast eighteen-unit grad- grading to be theoretically perfect and a most
uated tapes, as used in drafting by the all-em- excellent hypothetical bluff to be worked off
bracing Wampen science of anthropometry. on cutters and employers that have never ac-
In giving expression to our reverential feel- quired a technical knowledge of our trade, we
ings for the antiquated thirds and fourths, we unhesitatingly declare it a huge bungling mis-
have the able support of the learned Lord carriage of sartorial art, a mere old-fashioned
Bacon, who says: "Surely the advice of the dressmaking subterfuge for producing a
prophet is the true direction in this matter, larger or smaller size of gown. If this method
'Stand ye in the old ways, and see which is of grading possessed noteworthy merit it
the good way, and walk therein' (Jer. vi: 16). would not be necessary to begin over again
Antiquity deserveth that reverence that men by drafting a model for every fourth size
should make a stand thereupon, and discover and to claim that this process of "staging it"
what is the best way ; but when discovery is is good enough for' producing sets of blocks
well taken, then make progression. Antiquity for the ready-made and mail-order trade is
is the world's youth; these times are the an- indeed a lame excuse for the continuance of
a principle that is admittedly wrong, more self, and profit to his employer, must and shall
especially so when an absolutely correct scien- commend itself to every intelligent, progress-
tific principle is within such easy reach. ive cutter who has experienced the more or
less inevitable concomitant worries of a daily
discharge of cutting-room duties. What the
EXCEPTIONAL INTELLIGENCE OF ready reckoner is to the banker, commission
CUTTERS. merchant, and insurance agent, the Wampen
system is to the cutter, and stands much the
In keeping with our common practice we same, by comparison with antique divisional
speak frankly, rejoicing in a knowledge of the methods, as the now perfect scientifically con-
fact of the great bulk of cutters being men structed hundred-mile-an-hour railroad engine
of exceptional intelligence, and therefore ever
of today does with George Stephenson's first
anxious for, and glad of, the opportunity to
locomotive, "The Rocket." Learned astrono-
add still more to their wealth of wisdom,
mers, mariners, engineers, land surveyors, ar-
knowing as we do that such men always have chitects, painters, and sculptors all use the unit
a deep sense of gratitude in their hearts for all
system as applied to Dr. Wampen's anthro-
who are willing to respectfully show and are pometrical science. A lad comes in to get
able to prove to their fellow-crafts that they
measured he ; is 32 breast ; his father also gets
are wasting much mental tissue and physical measured ; he is 52 chest, or more, as the case
fiber by the use of wrong, imperfect, clumsy, may be ; the unit tape marked 32 will produce
awkward, unreliable methods. While we hope the boy's coat without the use of a minus or
not to be misunderstood by the intelligence of plus affix, just as the common inch tape will
the trade, we of course know that there are a
produce the 36 breast ; while the unit tape
number of narrow-minded, self-satisfied cut-
marked 52 will in like manner produce the
ters of the scatter-brain order who, in place of
father's 52 chest measure coat and vest, each
being thankful to those that endeavor to set
unit being graded to the thousandth part of
them right, get mad and go off at half-cock,
an inch and made to represent the common
firing volley after volley of abuse. If such men inch tape. The contraction, expansion, or di-
will only have patience, and read us to the
vision of an inch by a 1 X
/ S3 or / 52 is a too
end, no matter if they cannot agree with us, we delicate mathematical operation to be practical
doubt not they will at least be able to say that in the every-day routine work of the cutter.
our book has led them to think with profit of Dr. Wampen, however, has completed his
things they had never thought of before. To work on a strictly correct scientific basis, giv-
all such we say, do not in your haste cast the
ing to the cutter the results of his hair-split-
book aside as the work of a visionary dreamer,
ting variations in a form so simple and abso-
or perhaps as sheer fudge read us to a fin-
;
lutely true that we instinctively soliloquize,
ish, then let them give frank, intelligent ex-
"How the mischief did I not tumble to- that
pression to their ideas, whatever they may be.
idea myself?" The unit, except in the thirty-
six size, is always less or more than an inch,

but always a fractional part more or less than
ANTIQUE DIVISIONAL METHODS. a thirty-sixth of the ruling quantity, the large
Any principle that enables the cutter to do sizes being a fraction less, while the small are
his work with greater accuracy, ease to- him- a fraction more.
COMMON SENSE INSUFFICIENT. sonably hope to attain success. The sooner

While the misguided continue to- blindly ac- American teachers come to a realization of the
cept and practice the misconceived, primitive, fact that present-day technical exigencies de-
warped teachings of mere tuition-fee-grabbing mand a higher standard of qualifications than
hypothesists, thoughtful, well-informed tailors, is attainable through a study of their old will-
who sadly view the dismal condition of the o'-the-wisp, antiquarian relics of tallow-dip
grim-faced, care-worn, all-day brain-strained colonial days, the better will it be for all con-
cutter striving to master the minus and plus cerned. We envy none who know more than
complexities of divisional systems, are sym- we do, but we do pity those who' know less.
pathetically constrained to exclaim, "How

long, O Lord, how long" shall tailors endure
the affliction of blind contributance toward the DR. WAMPEN'S SYSTEM CON-
sumptuous support of those sordid, groveling, DEMNED.
parasitical false teachers of shallow, pucker-
ing, crippled theories, of abstract truth, mere
In certain quarters objections to the use of
sophistic subtleties without comprehension,
Dr. Wampen's system have been unwisely yet
paradoxical without ingenuity, filling not the vehemently urged on the strength of the
lofty purpose of extending but checking the premises of the Wampen science being so
onward and upward progress of sound, prac- absolutely complete that the adoption of it ob-
tical, scientific, technical knowledge. But as viates the necessity of thought, substituting a
we have already said, we nevertheless frankly general formula in the room of personal in-
confess our reverential admiration of the old tellectual effort a practice that tends to
thirds and fourths methods, just as we in like weaken the reasoning faculties. To such chat-
maimer reverently view the pyramids of terbox ideas we briefly answer : The Wampen
Egypt and the wall of China, although now system of cutting is the ripe fruit of a pro-
a practically useless burden on the face of the found scientific scrutiny of cause and effect,
earth. We can with deep interest listen to the and is revered by the most intelligent members
most minute descriptions of them, and at a of our profession as a great monumental work
vast expenditure of time and money would of true scientific sartorial art discovery ; its
enjoy traveling many thousand miles to see bearing upon the discipline of the intellect sets
them, knowing full well that, tiseless as they us at liberty to< engage with greater facility in
are, if we dare lay sacrilegious hands on them our more arduous toils, and as a happy result
to deface or destroy them, our memory would of an advanced state of science we are per-
be held in abhorrence. But when teachers of mitted and even called upon to proceed in the
these old minus and plus divisional systems study of higher problems than those hereto-
tell us that by the application of a little com- fore contemplated and the practical inference
;
mon sense we will experience no difficulty is obvious. The cutter's chief function is the
whatever in making adjustments to suit the producing of garments that will becomingly
requirements of modern demands, we reply fit and please his patrons. And when this
that common sense is totally insufficient where result is satisfactorily achieved it will surely
the most uncommon sense and the best scien- be conceded that the system that requires the
tific genius are required ; and they are the least expenditure of time and brain tissue is.
only expedients through which we may rea- the most desirable. If through the advancing
14 PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRICAL. SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE.
power of scientific methods we find the pur- were, into that unexplored region where others
suits on which we are engaged afford no had so long wandered, like Livingstone and
longer a sufficiently ample field for intellec- Stanley into Darkest Africa; nor leaving it
tual effort, the remedy is simple : Proceed, we until, by line, compass, and- theodolite, the
say, to higher inquiries, and tackle difficulties region had been mapped out for future travel-
yet unsubdued. We need not fear to commit ers ; mapped out for unsentimental wealth-
ourselves to such a course, for we have not makers who always come along to pick up the
yet arrived so very near to the boundary line gold which others .have extracted.
of possible knowledge as to suggest the rather "Wampen's work on anthropometry is as
grave apprehension that the lack of scope will essential to a full knowledge of the science of
prevent the exercise of our inventive faculties. cutting as are Darwin's books to' an inquirer
into the evolutionary theory."
ANTHROPOMETRY.
Samuel Keyworth, London, author of GLOW-WORM LIGHT.
"Form Growth," in one of his essays says
"Anthropometry. The simple, literal mean- American teachers of Old Fogy, Mossback
ing of this term is Man Measurement. & Co.'s divisional methods seem satisfied as
"It is an expressive term and ought to be long as they can rake in the cash, to> plod along
generally accepted by the trade. Besides its scorning the brilliancy of the midday sun,
etymological meaning, anthropometry has al- preferring rather to continue teaching their
ready an extended, peculiar significance, and students to do .their work by the dim light of
the more it is received as a tailor's technical the glow-worm, while they with a bland smile
term, the fuller, richer, and more useful will suavely explain to their over-credulous, duped
it become. Words live and grow. As they pupils that by a process of guessing, which
grow they gather around themselves an ever- they euphoniously call "judgment," they can
accumulating mental substance, either of his- come near enough to it to meet all the practical
tory, of science, of thought, of suggestion, or requirements of our trade a statement which
practical utility. simply means that they are cognizant of the
"Anthropometry at once reminds one of fact of their teaching a system of cutting that
Wampen. But Wampen did not make the lacks completeness. Scorning the adoption of
word; he found it already made. He added more enlightened principles, they persist in
to its wealth of meaning. Present-day teach- teaching cutters to continue working for suc-
ers should do the same. cess by the use of methods that propagate a
"You know the story, how the young uni- marvelous amount of concealed vexation and
versity student, having his attention drawn to secret despair.
the subject of tailoring and cutting, went Though plunged in and exercised in care,
ills,
straight away, in his pursuit of knowledge, to Yet never let the noble mind despair
the figure itself. How he anatomized, meas- When press'd by dangers, and beset by foes,
ured, compared both statuary and living mod- The gods their timely succor interpose;
els. How, under his masterly hand, an elabo- And when your courage sinks, o'erwhelmed
rate sectional system of figure-division arose, with grief,
based on the two elements of length and Dr. Wampen's unforeseen expedients bring
width. Plow he, the outsider, plunged, as it relief.
OLD HAS-BEENS. Wampen science, and they slide into oblivion
like a frog into a pond." We earnestly rec-
Ask any teacher of the old plus and minus ommend the relegation to the receptacle for
divisional systems that you meet anywhere the discarded all these "good old has-beens,"
between the Pacific coast and Atlantic sea- i. c, divisional systems, more especially such
board to explain why they continue to. teach as have a minus or plus affix guess. True, a
the practice of a false method of locating the little incomplete detail may or may not cause
cardinal points by thirds, fourths, and sixths, a misfit, but the accumulation of a little mis-
minus or plus one inch, etc., etc., as dimly placed trifle at this point, and the lack of a
marked on the corner of the common square, trifle at that point, all combine to give the
and not one in a hundred can present a rea- cutter, the customer, the bushelman, and the.
sonable excuse, because their hypothesis is log- boss no end of worry, loss of temper, and ex-
ically, theoretically, and mathematically in- pense.
correct, and therefore practically false. These

men, when drafting a thirty-six size, add one A DIMLY UNDERSTOOD FACT.
inch to, or subtract one inch from, say a third,
a fourth, or a sixth, as the case may be, which Cutters who cling to the now antiquated,
means that they locate their points by a process ever-unreliable method of drafting by aliquot
parts of the breast measure, with their plus
of adding or subtracting one thirty-sixth to
or from their divisions of the breast measure
and minus accompaniment, ignoring our more
expeditious principle, most undoubtedly stand
and while they stand ready to swear that the
addition or subtraction of a thirty-sixth at a
square in their own light, working at a need-
given point is absolutely correct, they will unless expenditure of time and useless waste of
brain tissue. It is a long-established but
wittingly contradict themselves by proceeding
to draft a fifty or maybe a twenty-five size, seemingly dimly understood fact that the hu-
and in like manner add to or subtract from man form as it increases in bulk does not in-
their divisions one inch, as in the thirty-six crease in the same ratio all over the body. To
size, which means that in the case of the large
meet the exigencies of this rather abstruse
size they have produced their draft by the complexity, the learned Dr. Wampeni's ana-
addition and subtraction of a fiftieth in place tomical knowledge and scientific trigonomet-
of a thirty-sixth, as in the first case, which is

ric, geometric wisdom enabled him to con-
declared correct, and in the case of the small struct and present to us his system of anthro-
size they add or subtract by a twenty-fifth. pometric graduation in such concise lucidity
Hence the cause of so much trouble when and correct, practical simplicity that on having
called on to produce either small or extra large it explained to us we at once become puzzled
sizes; and when pressed for an explanation to know the actual depth of our stupidity or
these teachers of soi-called sartorial art science lack of instinctive intuition.
only give us for an answer an evasive com-

ment, a plausible bluff, a dull, far-away look
MASCULINE PROPORTIONS.
or vacant stare, which calls to our memory
the lucid statement of Mr. Back, who on a The ancient sculptors were the first to make
memorable occasion said : "Place these sys- a special study of human proportions and lay
tems on the dissecting: table alongside of the down certain prescribed canons or conven-
tional rules and individual notions, which were GRECIAN ANATOMICAL ERRORS.
recognized by the Egyptians and accepted by
the Greeks, as, for example, the famous statue With the ancient Greeks rigorous exact-
of Polycletus. Those ancient artists deviated

ness was so little sought after that they seemed
to think lightly of perpetrating egregious ana-
from their accepted standards according to the
individual conception which they desired to
tomical errors, often making the limbs un-
infuse into their subject, just as thoroughly

equal. In the Laocoon the right leg is shorter
than the left, and in one of his sons the case
posted Wampenite cutters doi in producing
characteristic garments most becoming to the
is reversed ; the Pythian Apollo and the Venus
varied individual requirements of their pa- de Medici had each one leg shorter than the
trons. When the sculptor desired to represent

other. The various art schools succeeding the
a Jupiter he developed the subject less by a Renaissance period were all inspired with
rigorous adherence to nature than by indi- ideals anent the production of characteristic
vidual ideality, producing a form of forehead

features similar to those of the Egyptians and
the Greeks. In Italy height of figure was ex-
that was suited to his own perception of the
character. Like the properly instructed artis-
pressive of dignity; in Spain the figure was
reduced in size, with a view to denote delicacy
tic cutter, who knows just how to correctly
adjust the location of shoulder and side seams
of form; in Holland it was made large to
of a coat for a very short-necked, high-shoul-

illustrate realism, while in France the head
only was exaggerated, with a view to exciting
dered customer, producing a most desirable
greater attention. It will therefore be seen
optical deception, making the shoulders to
appear less square, the cunning sculptor or
that the artistic and the anthropological con-
portrait painter, desiring to make the face

ceptions are somewhat contradictory, the one
to the other; the one idealizes the beautiful,
angle to appear enlarged, accomplishes his
while the other searches after the true. Art,
purpose by placing the ear a trifle lower.
When those artists aimed at representing no- - then, ought to rest upon anthropology, in that
bleness and grace, the neck was made bare,

its whims are tolerated under the express
conditions that they do^ not go beyond the
with the limbs rounded and slim. When the
individual variations which anthropometry re-
sublime was desired, the head, the limbs, and
veals to it. If it be true that there can be no
the joints especially, were made larger, broad
art without feeling, neither can there be any
shoulders signifying strength, narrow shoul-
without desig'n.
ders youth or effeminacy of character. The
trunk all of one size, or drawn in at the waist,
also significance for example, the
lias its ;
MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF MAN-
pelvis is contracted when it is the desire to
KIND.
awaken modest sentiments, or enlarged when
intended to excite passions of an opposite The different races of mankind give us a
character. From all of these high-art guides great plurality of types of ideal human pro-
to the artistic production of characteristic fea- portions, every tribe of men having its own
tures the intelligent young aspirant for sarto- distinctive physical normality and each of
rial art fame will be able to draw useful, prac- which has its many subnormal conditions ; its
tical deductions fur the embellishment of his agriculturists, its tradespeople, and its many
work. groups of learned professionals all have their
distinctive normal attribute. It is therefore years have made sorties on the ranchos of the
highly essential for a first-class fine-trade cut- mainland ;
going as far Guaymas, they
as
ter to have a familiar knowledge of all the carried off to their insular home Mexican
varied normal conditions. We say so although women and children, taking them across the
we are aware that the more fully conversant Angostura del Inferno (the Strait of Hell).
we are with the detail facts, the more timidity At this point their island is only two miles
do we experience when asked toi describe the from Sonora. President Diaz was prepared
boundary outlines of the normal man. to exterminate them, but before he gave the
command the Washing-ton ethnological bureau
asked to be allowed to collect data of this
queer race of people before it was made ex-
tinct ; and that was the last we heard of either

OUR SOLDIERS OF THE CIVIL WAR. data or expedition. The next tallest race of
manhood are the Patagonians, whose average

The muster rolls of the Union armies of the
height is 5 feet 1 1 inches ; and in searching
rebellion show that out of 2,000,000 in round
our memory while we write, the smallest race
numbers three-fourths were native Americans ;
of men that we remember knowing anything

Germany furnished 175 000; Ireland, 150,000;
of are a tribe of nomadic South African Bush-
England, 50,000 ; British America, 50,000,
men, whose average height is said to be 4
and other countries, 75,000; in all about '500,-
feet 6\ inches. The Irish and Scotch average
000 foreigners. Forty-eight per cent of our
5 feet 8-J inches ; the English, 5 feet 8 inches ;
soldiers were farmers, 27 per cent mechanics,
the Scandinavians, 5 feet 7 inches ; the Chinese,
16 per cent laborers, 5 per cent professional
5 feet 4 inches, and the Lapps, a branch of
men, and 4 per cent were of miscellaneous vo-
the Mongolian race, average only 5 feet. It
cations. The average height of our soldiers
was 5 feet 8 inches, including the large num- will thus be seen that the tallest race of men
ber of recruits from 17 to 20 years of age. are a trifle less than one-fourth taller than the
Out of about 1,000,000 men whose heights shortest race of mankind. Struck at first
sight by the effect of this difference of stature,

were recorded there were 3,613 over 6 feet 3
inches and some were over 7 feet. we are apt to form excessive notions anent the
amount of difference; but when we stop and
contrast it with the disproportions of com-
parative size as seen in other animal species,
it is indeed almost infinitesimal ; and by the
MAN'S TOTAL HEIGHT. use of properly constructed systems of cut-
ting, the two extremes in size give the properly
The tallest race of men that we know of are informed manipulator of the shears no concern
the untamable, unconquerable, cannibalistic whatever. In contemplating the disproportion
tribe of Seris Indians of Tiburon Island. Their in size of the animal man we shall only draw
average height is more than 6 feet ; they are the reader's attention to two other animal spe-
limber-limbed, stalwart, ferocious, hideously cies, that the difference may be compared by
repulsive, and of the most degraded order. contrast ; for example, the toy Scotch terrier
Their women, who frequently visit Sonora, with the mastiff, and the Shetland pony with
are said to be beautiful. The bucks in recent the Clydesdale horse,
AN APPROXIMATE SYLLABUS. human figure reduced to centimeter fractions.

When you consider the fact of a centimeter
The learned professions have long since being the hundredth part of a meter, and that
united in accepting the white race of mankind the measurements of the human form are re-
as their standard for the anatomy of the human duced to the hundredths of a centimeter, you
figure, and scientific anthropology furnishes us may begin to realize how admirably correct the
with an elaborate anthropometric table of rela- Wampen system of drafting and grading sets
tive proportions from which we here give a of block patterns unquestionably is.
brief approximate syllabus as serving to show

the basis upon which Dr. Wampen constructed
his system. For anthropometrical and other WAMPEN'S MODEL.
scientific purposes the human figure has been
divided into eight height sections called Dr. Wampen gives us a model figure as a
"Heads-." From the vertex to the lower man- cutter's base or zero of graduation, the chest
dible point (crown to chin) ; thence to meso- measure of which is thirty-six inches, with a
sternum (level of nipples) ; from there to the thirty-inch waist, or one-sixth less than chest
umbilicus (navel) ; from the umbilicus to the measure. The figure, having a total height of
genital organs ; from there to the middle of sixty-four inches, or units, is divided into
femur (thigh) thence to the upper tibia

;
eight height sections, or heads, seven of which
(knee level) ; from there to the middle of the are called the ground length ; that is,from
tibia shaft (middle of leg), and thence to the the nape of the neck to the ground. Each of
ground. Each of these eight heads has its the "heads" is subdivided into eight inches,
division and subdivision lines ; the head, for or units, of total height, enabling the cutter
example, is divided into four equal lengths to accurately locate and correctly provide for
from the vertex to the hair line, from hair line any abnormal condition that may exist in any
to root of nose, from the root of nose to its of the heads or subdivisions of heads. These
base, and from base of nose to chin ; the space heads are marked off on the figure, as already
between the eyes or breadth of base of nose is explained, by horizontal boundary lines, the
equal to one length of the eye; the length of coccyx point, or os pubis level, being the mod-
the face and the length of the hand are equal, el's center of height level, which is thirty-two
each being a ninth of the total height; the units of total height. When the unit of
length of the foot and the circumference of height, argue some misinformed cutters, is
the clinched fist are equals, each of which is greater than the unit of proportion of breast,
one-sixth of the total height; the neck, the the coccvx point level is always above the
knee, and the calf are each three-eighths of center level, and therefore the total height unit
the breast measure; the breast and seat are is not a reliable guide to the location of natu-
the same in size, while the waist is one-sixth ral waist length ; and, continue these hypo-
less than breast ; the thigh is five-ninths of thetic reasoners, when the coccyx level Jails
the seat ; the ankle and elbow are each one- below the center level, the height unit always
fourth of the breast. These are but a few becomes less than the chest unit, which would
approximate proportions of the anatomical result in the cutler locating a too short natural
standard of the human form, but the science waist level. We have always declared that the
nf anthropometry has the divisions of the unit of height is nut a safe guide for locating
depth points ; nor does Dr. Wampen intend it which are still in common use in the every-day
to be used as such, except in cases of grading practice of American cutters, who seem to-be
sets of block patterns. Men who argue that thoroughly duped into the erroneous belief
a low or high coccyx point level changes the that, unsatisfactory as their divisional methods
size of the height unit are laboring under a are, there is nothing better in existence; but
huge misconception of the governing law of these cutters are willing to believe only what
physiological economics and mathematical sci- they wish to be true."
ence as applied to the art of cutting". For
example, take two men of equal height, the
one measuring thirty-one and the other thirty-
AESTHETIC SCIENCE.
three leg length, which is not an uncommon
Dr. Wampen says : "The beautiful and the
occurrence. We here have a difference of two
aesthetic are synonymous, only with this differ-
inches in the coccyx point level, and yet the
ence : the aesthetic has a science for its base,
man with the lower level is just as likely as
and is therefore not disputable. My works
not to require a shorter shoulder and depth of
show how to produce the beautiful ; the aes-
scye level than the one with the higher coccyx
thetics have a science by which the beautiful
form of
level, because of the difference in
shoulders and flatness or roundness of back.
is produced a science which consists of in-
disputable principles in nature. The whole of
Our simplification of the Wampen system
the principles taught in my work are the sci-
clears away many of the false conceptions
ence and geometry of the human figure, pure
anent the practical application of the Wampen and simple. It teaches simply of the surface
science. Mr. F. M. King, although not a
and solids of the human bod)'. My principles
practical tailor, has proved himself a most in-
and teachings are equally as useful to the
telligent and successful cutter, as free from
sculptor, the painter, or the calisthenics as to
swell-headed, ostentatious swagger as we can
the tailor. Like Prometheus, who stole the
get them, yet he happens to be one of many
light from heaven and came to light up the
who caught the false idea of the application
earth, I take the light of science to light up
of the height unit. In talking with us con-
the human mind."
cerning the practical worth of Dr. Wampen's
science he said: "I can make no pretense of
knowing all the varied details of Dr. Wam- THE GREATEST SARTORIAL ART
pen's anatomic, mathematical, sartorial art phi-
SCIENTIST.
losophy as taught to cutters, and, compara-
tively speaking, if I knew but as little of any As the chariot wheels of "old Father Time"
other system as I do of Wampen's, and at- roll us on and into ever more enlightened en-
tempted to make my living by the practice of vironment, Dr. Wampen's teachings are being
it, I assure you I would not be able to provide more eagerly sought after and diligently
salt enough to season my food ; but, little as studied, especially by that class of cutters who
I do know of Wampen's science, that little are most capable of appreciating the works of
enables me, as you know, to successfully com- men of real practical worth, and to whom we
pete for my living with the best of them who are indebted for our advanced knowledge in
are depending on their thorough knowledge of the science of high-class garment cutting. As
the old plus and minus divisional systems a sartorial art scientist, Dr. Wampen, through-
out the civilized world, is deservedly awarded of so many men failing to attain desirable dis-
the position of highest rank. His laborious tinction. The Wampen science may be said
research into the various forms and attitudes to be a perfect tool, to be used in the accom-
assumed by the human figure, and his anatom- plishment of a perfect work; the science or
ical mathematical basis for the artistic con- tool being perfect, the skillful or unskillful
struction of graceful-fitting clothing for the application of it will ever make or mar the
many divergent forms of men, is an everlast- reputation of the cutter.

ing monument to his genius and industry. The
truths he has revealed and taught us to under-
stand and ^practice are of the highest conceiv- IN THE REALM OF REAL SARTORIAL
able value to the cutting profession, he being
ART.
at once the scientific pioneer and grand past
master of a perfect sartorial art science. Dr. Lie who is in a very moderate degree dili-
Wampen's idea of high-class tailoring is that gent cannot fail to soon become master of the
of an industrial art, to which the teachings of Wampen system, intelligently understanding
science are practically and economically ap- the working of its principles, how to vary its
plied an idea that is now taking a fast and operations, knowing just what these variations
powerful hold of the trade and is certainly will produce in providing for the special re-
leading up to greatly improved results. It quirements of the individual customers or the

must not be thought, however, that the espe- ever-changing demands of fashion, enabling
cially favorable advantages of the present-day the young cutter to make a display of that
cutter constitute a royal road to success, for refinement of taste which is ever acceptable as
with improved methods we create a still a gilt-edged voucher of diligent study and
greater demand for superior executive ability. ripened practical experience qualifications
The greater ease that Dr. Wampen's science that will ever enable their possessor to far sur-
has brought to us in ascending the sartorial pass the other easy-going chap who "can't be
ladder of fame has naturally produced a corre- bothered" and is satisfied with the mere accom-
spondingly loftier ideal of ascents ; and here, plishment of a routine mechanical operation of
as in all departments of knowledge and indus- the system, seemingly quite indifferent to the
trial pursuit, superior advantages must ever fact that in the realm of real sartorial art there
carry with them more excellent attainments. is always a vast fallow field open for the in-
It is therefore of the highest importance that genious tailor who clings to a love of ideal
cutters whose happy privilege it is to acquire work, striving, for example, after the first
a clear knowledge of the Wampen science principles of characteristic suitability in sarto-

should fully understand and duly appreciate rial science which may be said to be an incar- 1
this significant truth. To secure a clear nation of fancy, a sort of petrified poetry or
knowledge of the A'Vampen system and its concrete rhetoric. The blossom of the sarto-
practical application, combined with the ability rial art tree is the product of the roots of
to let flow its full flood of artistic power on thought and the trunk of imagination ; it is
our every-day practice, demands intellectual inventive, mutational, and composite, like
effort and diligent study; and lie it ever Greek art, which is inventional, while Gothic
remembered that it is the want of diligence, is mutational and Byzantine composite;
more than the lack of ability, that is the cause Egyptian ornament is thoughtful and always
allegorical ; the x\ssyrian is still quainter, sim- to impart the required form without unduly
pler, and more primitive. The Greek revels revealing but to some extent concealing the
in noble, sweeping curves and in fretted fo- departure from the recognized standard of
liage highly conventionalized. The Oriental graceful normality.
types in their art lost their symbolic character If it be art to beautify,
and became enriched and idealized by fancy Adorn, enhance, and make complete;
and a sweet grace lineality.The Etruscan is To originate, shape, and mold,
rude and Asiatic, with Greek luxuriance. The And make more elegantly neat,
Roman is strong and vigorous, leafy, luxuri- Then to the fine art tailor must be given
ous, and highly voluptuous. The Byzantine is
The highest meed of praise from heaven.
barbarian, rich, knotted, linked, and studded
The philosophy that teaches the dressing of
like embroidery. The Moorish is the poetry
all men alike is full of rank hypothetical error,
of geometry and the mathematics of color,
and the tailor who practices a uniform style of
varied and changeful as nature. The Gothic
outline for all sizes, shapes, and manner of
is nature subdued and limited to rules and
men is the vulgar perpetrator of a gross out-
space. The Indian is varied, strange in its
rage on good taste, displaying a total disregard
Mendings, and studied intermixtures arranged
for the rulings of business displomacy, a lack
by the instinct of men of a hot climate, but the
of commercial knowledge and business enter-
Persian is said to be the most graceful and
prise, because that which will best suit one
poetical of all Oriental work, being gorgeous
form of manhood or shade of complexion will
and yet delicate in color; it is full of the
not suit all forms, shades, ages, and conditions.
broadest effects of contrasting hues, and
wreathed and blossomed with threads of
flowers bright as those of a missal. The cut-
MANY ACCEPTABLE FORMS OF ELE-
ter who devotes a reasonable time to the study
GANCE.
of the above mentioned varied forms and
styles of art will experience no difficulty what- From hour to hour the cutter is subject to
ever in infusing the most becoming character- be called on to furnish becoming apparel for
istic features into his productions that is best a great variety of men, all dissimilar in style,
adapted to the requirements of youth, man- form, taste, and character. Young, old, gay,
hood, age, form, occupation, rank, character, grave, scraggy, fat, poor, rich, tall, short,
style, or profession. penurious or profligate, all of whom may be

alike beautiful technical types although widely
characteristically different, as seen in the
statesman and the hod-carrier, the trust mag-
THE DRESSING OF ALL MEN ALIKE.
nate and the sycophant, the soldier and the
The human form is presented to us in too flunkey, the learned scientist and the illiterate
great a variety of conformation to submit to a feeder of swine, as in real life. We expect to

uniform mechanical treatment, and therefore see the same varied characteristic features re-
the attainment of marked success requires that produced in the works of the true sartorial
the eye be trained to detect divergences from artist, as in the painter's representation of the
our ideal of proportions, the mind to grasp shepherd and the warrior, of the senator and
the necessities, and the taste and trained hand the peasant, of the wrestler and the boatman,
of the savage and the man of culture. In the figure, while stiff-drawn angles, dug-out
sculpture we in the same way meet very differ- hollowings, and misplaced seams are the ever-
ent outlines of beautiful proportions, forms, present "ear-marks" of the common, grotesque
and attitudes, as in the portrayal of Jove, products of a technically unlearned, cheap,
Bacchus, Hercules, Apollo Belvedere, etc., degenerated tailorhood, which serve by con-
etc. To us as tailors it is of noi consequence trast to< emphasize the beauty of the artistic
why we have such great variety of forms ; it productions of the true sartorial artist, whose
is only of consequence to observe that all this knowledge of the real purpose of the combi-
could not happen if there had been established nation of the height and width theory, as
but one prescribed form of acceptable ele- conceived, elaborated, taught, and promulgated
gance in human proportions and had this ; by Dr. Wampen, enables the practitioner to
been so, we could not produce the exception, conserve all the pleasing features of sartorial
nor would the self-respecting' artist dare to art lines that are most becoming to different
portray it by deviation from the sole pre- ages, conditions, and forms. From, infancy up
scribed form. Seeing, then, that there is a to and through adolescence we expect mirth
great variety of acceptable forms of masculine and joy; in manhood, firmness and vigor; in
beauty of outline, each having its inherent de- old age, dignified serenity. Gravity in youth-
gree of imperfection, it is obviously essential ful features, or the heedless mirth of infancy
to the attainment of success that the cutter, in the features of maturity, or the passionate
painter, or sculptor who aspires artistic fame joy of youth in the features of the aged, are
should have a very familiar knowledge of all conditions which we never observe without a
the forms and variations of specific forms, feeling of censure or disgust. The gallant
combined with technical ability to produce the look and sartorial make-up that we SO' much
style of outline in the class of garment that admire in the soldier and "the mariner bold"
will best harmonize with the characteristic would be utterly ridiculous in the supreme
specialties of youth, maturity, age, occupation, court judge and more reprehensible in a
still
or profession. For it is with clothes as it is clergyman the grave, sober thought and sar-
;
with the facial expression : whenever the coun- torial make-up that are most becoming to
tenance has any special distinctive character, these, we should also disapprove in the courtier
it is not susceptible of beauty when under the or man of the world. We expect a different
dominion of unanalogous emotions. In the expression and characteristic sartorial outline
deep, melancholy face, laughter is a distress- for the great merchant prince and that of the
ing spectacle; in those of extreme gayety, little storekeeper, as we do in the great land-
melancholy is no less so. Dignified deport- owner and the small farmer, or in the teacher
ment is disgraced by mirth, and the pug- of science and his disciple. Each and all the
nosed mirthful made ridiculous by the as- conditions are appropriately commendable and
sumption of dignity. Nothing is more dis- beautiful in their respective homogeneal en-
tressing to the manly countenance than the vironment. When destitute of a clear knowl-
assumption of softness or effeminacy, and edge of that discriminative and versatile abil-
nothing more absurd than the effeminate coun- ity that enables the tailor to produce the spe-
tenance affecting the expression of manliness. cial distinctive sartorial art features that are
In like manner, correct individual adjustment most becoming to all the varied conditions and
of sartorial art line curvature lends beauty to manner of men above referred to, it is nothing
less than sheer technical ignorance, combined PICK THEM OUT AND PLACE THEM.
with colossal, unblushing, brazen-faced gall,
Men of every occupation, no matter what
that will enable teachers of cutting and their
it may be, acquire a physical form, gait, and
disciples to pose under the high-sounding
facial expression peculiar to the work they
antonamasia of "sartorial artist," because it is
are engaged in, and to such a marked degree
just in that degree in which the tailor is profi-
that the stoker can be picked out from the
cient in producing what is most appropriate to engineer, the blacksmith from the carpenter,
physical conditions, occupation, and age, that the shoemaker from the tailor. The lawyer,
he is justified in laying claim to artistic hon- the doctor, and the preacher all have a facial
ors. For just as the physiological incongrui- expression peculiar to their specific practice,
ties above referred toi produce monstrosities, and each by his appearance or "make-up" may
so is it in the realm of sartorial science ; hence be selected and placed according to> his degree
our being in a measure disappointed when we or rank. The police court judge may be a
meet a professional man not in the dress of

man of enormous wealth as compared with his
confrere the supreme court judge, but never-
his profession, but when he is professionally
theless in seventy-five out of the hundred you
costumed we at once experience a pleasing
can pick them out and place them correctly,
perception of concordant beauty or propriety.
just as you can the Presbyterian facial ex-
We not only laugh at but scorn the mere sup-
pression from the Episcopalian, or the Roman
position of our army and navy being dressed Catholic from the Methodist, all of whom have'
in black, and our incumbents of the pulpit and their characteristic sect physiognomy.
bar being costumed in Rough Rider's khaki, It is a long-established, self-evident fact that
marine blue, and regimental gray. Such a idleness, special occupations, trades, and learn-
reversal would utterly destroy the whole -sig- ed professions all carve the outlines of their
nificant beauty of the uniforms. And so on own brand on the face or form of their devo-
right throughout all the gradations of dress tees, hence the absolute necessity of cutters
most appropriate to professional rank and so- who aspire sartorial art fame familiarizing
themselves with all the varied details of pro-
cial degree. Women are most undoubtedly
cedure concerning the production of that form
better designers of costumes than men, as evi-
of outline and general make-up that is best
denced by their more delicate blendings of
adapted for, or most becoming to, the varied
color shades and the harmonious, rhythmic
individual characteristics of the customer. And
adaptation of graceful curvature of outline,
it is just here where American sartorial art
producing most convincing evidence of the
skill is conspicuously feeble as compared with
hand ever being guided by the mysterious op- that of the British tailor, who is trained to
erations of the mind in imparting that pleasing discern, discriminate, assemble and combine
individualism of character to their productions into one concordant whole the various distin-
that is always highly appreciated by intelligent guishing characteristic trifles betokening that
dressers an artistic feature which we are dignified refinement so much desired and high-
sorry to be constrained to admit is grievously ly appreciated by the educated, rich Americans
absent in the products of many of our high- who, finding themselves unable to obtain it at
priced American trades. home, go to the British tailor to secure it.

BRITISH TAILORING THE MOST FA- for the acquirement of a knowledge of high-
MOUS. class, modernized, technical versatility of
make-up. Learn how to give the educated,
The tailors of Great Britain have long been rich American the high-class distinctive form,
famous beyond all others, largely because of
character, or style of make-up that he desires,
their more complete knowledge of the art of
and he will loyally spurn the British tailors,
infusing into their productions that peculiar who have captured millions of American dol-
individual grace and elegant, characteristic
lars because of the fact of their being able to
class distinction which has completely lured furnish not only an individual style but an
the educated of all nations to accept and adopt unlimited variety of individual characteristic
the British aristocrat's make-up as that of the styles which are as yet unobtainable in
ideal gentleman. The present-day superla- America. We therefore think that it is more
tive eminence of British sartorial art is in a than time for American teachers of cutting to
great measure due to the mighty influence waken up to> a realization of the fact that high
wielded by that renowned old Scotchman John sartorial style
art is individuality ; it is the
Williamson, founder of the world-famous man himself. Those who teach style teach
Tailor and Cutter and originator of the Lon- only the art of imitation ; they impose modes.
don Cutting- Academy, to which tailors hie
But to follow or copy is not learning how to
from all parts of civilization for the sole pur- design. To the mind of the American teacher,
pose of securing a more complete knowledge who has been so- long accustomed to recognize
of concentrated sartorial art science than is
only a mere stereotyped national form, it ap-
obtainable in any other country in the world.
pears impossible to conceive of a style not
To such an extent is this the case the fashion- similar to a pre-existing one. Combinations
ables of all nations are becoming ever more and inter-combinings of little details is to him
British in their sartorial make-up. In every
an occult art. To be a successful individualist
civilized country men of wealth and wisdom the cutter must have had a technical training
who desire social recognition are nO'W adopting
he must, in every sense of the word, be a tailor
the British aristocrat's form of dress, gait,
in the happy possession of a visual memory,
mannerism, and equipaged form, with its liv-
enabling him to retain in his mind not words
eried flunkey completeness ; and in no other but images, his artistic work always revealing
country is this more in evidence than in
the ugly as inharmonious and discordant with-
America. And why not? And yet there are
out making the revelation in precepts, for the
no class of men under heaven who are more principle of art is simply aspiration toward a
loyal to their own tradespeople than are the
superior beauty of appropriateness, and the
Americans. Neither are there any other people
manifestation of this principle is in an enthu-
better able to explain to their tradesmen what siasm independent of passion or the overzeal
they desire to have, or who more highly ap- of the fanatic ; it is the exaltation of the heart
preciate it when they do get it. We therefore and of truth ; the domain of reason. By add-
most respectfully advise the stopping of all
ing new features it enables us to illumine
lobbying for higher tariffs on imported ward- what is dark or insipid, giving life and color
robes for the sole purpose of bolstering up to the limp, inert, and faded, like the lapidary
home incompetency. Break away, we say, giving a lighter yellow to the topaz, a more
from antiquated methods. Study and work celestial blue to the sapphire, a deeper crimson
to the ruby, a more transparent purple to the Then our sallow - complexioned customer
amethyst, or a higher brilliance to the dia- would appear the product of a more artistic
mond. Of course no honest-minded man will tailor, and, being dressed to the best advan-
deny the fact of American tailoring having its tage, he would at least seem a gentleman. The
broad, national, characteristic features beto- great bulk of cutters appear to centralize all
kening high, cultured intellect and technical their mental force on the mere production of
talent, but the cut and general make-up should "a good fit," devoting but little study to stylish
be adapted to. the individual ; the material outlines and the many other little essential
should also accord with the customer's person- details for the infusement of that high-class
ality, while the color and shade should tally distinctive personality that so harmoniously
with the whole combination. blends with the special characteristics of the
various learned professions, as distinguishable
from commercialism as that in turn is distin-
COMPLEXION AND COLOR EFFECTS. guishable from militarism. It is the ability to
engender that becoming trimness for the vari-

A tall dark or fair man carries a Norfolk
ous class grades, as approved by all men of
tourist suit or Prince Albert coat with becoming
refined taste, that discriminates the artistic
grace, and more especially so when not fleshy,
cutter.
the figure being enhanced ; but the opposite
effect will be the result when a dark, sallow-
complexioned man selects, while his imprudent
PHOTOGRAPHY AND TAILORING.
tailor approves and perhaps commends the
What measure of prosperity would we be
choice of, a fawn mixture for a coat and vest,
reasonably justified in predicting for the pho-
which as likely as not will be set off by the
tographer who made a fixture of his camera
addition of a white, yellow, black, or some
and "sitter's chair" and who turned out all
other incongruous color of neckwear, both
his pictures in the same pose, the same size,
buyer and seller being sublimely innocent of a
and the same high and low lights? The pho-
knowledge of the unhomogeneal make-up of
tographer studies the especial requirements of
the selection ; hence the not uncommon heinous
each individual face, figure, and make-up. He
violation of good taste, as seen even in the
dictates the most becoming pose, and adjusts
highest levels of the social whirl.
his high and low lights according to the ever-
changing exigency of his individual patrons.
And why not the tailor? No matter what the

ADDUCTIVE ABILITY.
abnormality of the customer may be, the cutter
In the absence of good taste on the part of should ever hold in his mind's eye the normal
the customer, the tailor should have adductive form when drafting a pattern, for the reason
ability to lure his sallow-complexioned cus- that our ideal in beauty of form should ever
tomer away from saffron-tinged goods to be subservient to, and in conformity with, the
something more homogeneal in the form of a graceful lines of the normally developed body.
dark blue, or, if he would rather have it, a A really artistically drafted pattern always cir-
plain black serge or milton, or, if something cumscribes and emphasizes the beautiful
more fancy be desired a dark mixed tweed, curves of the normal figure, a requirement that
with a crimson or blue pretty shot silk necktie. is commonly lost sight of by the cheap, low-
grade, loud, ultra-fashionable houses, whose by far the most able physician, but in his
glaringly vulgar, inartistic, artificial products personal sartorial make-up he lacks the index
ever appear so conspicuously absurd when of his profession and therefore is relegated to
compared with the productions of cultured sar- the ranks of the unacceptable. The influence
torial art. The most famous artists of ancient of occupation is revealed alike in dress and
Greece and Rome idealized the beauty of the the attitudes imposed by diverse professional
human form, and in their most perfect crea- and social functions. The military officer and
tions they ever scrupulously preserved the gen- the ecclesiastic have an opposite physiognomy
eral outline and character of the normal body and physical development, the first possessing
but our least erudite, inexperienced, "Cheap in a large degree the movements of extension,
John" artificial tailors, who ape the artistic which express strength, action, force, joy,
productions of high-class trades, are ever well-being, pleasure, revolt, impulsion, blas-
prone to plunge into extremity a vulgarism phemy, in fact all that is self-assertive, while
that is largely due to a total lack of knowledge the second is the living exemplification of
concerning the course to be pursued in the flexion, which expresses humility, discomfort,
treatment of anatomical disproportions, often fatigue, pain, reflection, prayei, sycophancy,
causing their misguided patrons to- masquerade adoration, repose, and all that accentuates a
in gross caricature of gentleman-like refine- debasement of self; and the cutter caught
ment. guilty of producing for two such opposite
characters a Prince Albert or any other form
of coat, with the same design of outline, can-
THE YACHTMAN-LIKE DOCTOR.
not by any degree of common-sense reasoning
Although we cannot judge the merits or be rated "an artistic tailor," and it is worse
demerits of a book by its cover, its epitomized than foolishness of him to expect to receive
summary or index will ever cause us to accept and retain the patronage of rich, educated,
or reject it; and as dress has ever been the gentleman-like dressers, because of his lack of
accepted characteristic index of the individual versatility in artistic style unfitting him to
and class alike, no intelligent, self-respecting successfully compete with those who really are
man can afford to appear clothed in garments sartorial artists, even although they be located
-unsuitable to his agrestic grade, urban rank, at a seemingly safe trans-Atlantic distance.
or learned professional dignity. For example,
a hurry-up call was sent out for a doctor, two
of whom simultaneously approached the pa- RESPONSIBILITY OF TEACHERS OF
tient. The one nearest to, the sick man stood CUTTING.
clothed in a handsome yachting suit the ; If men who assume the grave responsibility
otherwas dressed in black Prince Albert, and of teaching the art and science of cutting and
had entered the room dress hat in hand and its concomitants were of a turn of mind that
properly gloved. Both were personally un- would lead them to seriously consider the far-
known to the sufferer, who instinctively ig- reaching- influence of their ability or their lack
nored the presence of the handsome yacht- of ability to impart a clear knowledge of tech-
man-like doctor and accepted the other as nical details, we no doubt would soon attain a
being the most responsible-like physician. much higher average of greatly needed artistic
True, the doctor in the yachting suit may be skill ; the laws of cause and effect would soon
PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRICS SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE. 27
be more commonly and much better under- be from ostentation and weakness free. It
stood, sparing us the mortification so often stands as the great cerulean arch of our trade,
experienced at the sight of short men bobbing majestic in its own simplicity and embracing
up in large checked suits, wide-legged trou- all that is comprehensible.
sers,and long coats with too low-pitched side
seams, and tall, lanky, high-shouldered or
short-necked men wearing tight-fitting striped STRAINING HIS BUTTONS.
trousers and short coats with high-pitched, The untutored cutter unwittingly increases
much-curved side seams. Of course there is the apparent size of a bulky man of barrel-
no system of sartorial art known to us that hoop rotundity by causing him to don a snug-
"will a cubit add to the stature of the man," fitting Prince Albert with extra broad lapels,
but we do> know that there are optical delu- giving the wearer the appearance of being a
sions in tailoring, as there are in other arts, much man
larger than he really is, straining
and that by the intelligent placement and har- his buttons to the bursting point in the en-
monizing of seanis and graceful curvature deavor to accommodate his imprisoned bulk
much can be done to increase or reduce the while the extra narrow lapel on the tall, slim
apparent height of the figure or give a more man will give him a still more lanky, ill-fed
square appearance to the sloping shoulders. A look. The thin man's coat with the broader
clearer and more universal technical knowledge lapel would give a larger chest appearing ef-
of the laws governing the diffusion of individ- fect, and so on throughout the whole range
uality in sartorial art make-up is now the only of the varied forms of men and the many dif-
way to obtain the salvation of the fine trade ferent styles of coats that we are from clay to
houses of America. The canker-worm of de- day called on to produce.
generation and decay has already fastened its
fangs on the very vitals of high-priced tailor-

ing, and unless America's Rip Van Winkle
JUST GROWN THERE.
teachers of today wake up to' a true sense of How vitally important to the character of
their far-reaching, grave responsibility, adopt- the coat and the appearance of the wearer is
ing-
and teaching modern and progressive the relative location of seams length, width
methods, our present-day high-class tailoring, and general style of shoulders, lapels and col-
like that of the custom shoemaker, will soon lar; the shape, size and position of flaps and
be absorbed in the stereotyped factory trade. pockets, with their upward or downward ten-
We therefore say to the young tailor who is dency, veering from the rigidity of the ortho-
imbued with the spirit of ambition toward the dox horizontal line, are but a few of many
higher latitudes of our profession, see to it that details that form an important study for the
you do not get snared by unscrupulous graft- aspiring- cutter. A g'ood silk facing, good in
ers destitute of a technical knowledge of the every sense of the word, always has a bright-
trade, and on whose lips the mystic bee has ening effect, and like bindings and braidings or
dropped the luring honey of delusive persua- velvet collar, should always seem to have just
sion. Before committing your life interests grown there ; but if blistered or wrinkled in the
to any. school or system, make a searching in- least degree when putting- on, or if the filling
quiry, and we know that you shall discover shows cats-teeth markings, off with it, cre-
Dr. Wampen's Science of Anthropometry to mate it, or bury it.
THE CUTTER AND JOURNEYMAN'S plating "how few there be" in our highest class
MASTERPIECE. trades even, who are proficient in the detail
work of high art dress coat making, capable of
The evening dress coat, in our opinion, is
bridging over anatomical imperfections or phy-
to the cutter and journeyman alike, the mas- sical defects. The use of "soldiers-fat" wad-
terpiece of fine trade sartorial art right plumb ding to a degree is pardonable, and oft times
through from start to finish. In the cutting, necessary as a help in toning down sharp an-
trimming and making of the dress coat we gles or equalizing a lob-sided figure, but like
have a most excellent field for the display of
genuine old Scotch whiskey, it must ever be
real sartorial art of the highest order, as ex- used with prudent care, because a small over-
emplified in the tastefully outlined, clean fit-
dose of either will never fail to destroy good
ting, firm, square, slightly concaved shoulders, form.
cut just crooked enough to* produce a pleasing
rotundity of chest, a smooth, close, yet com- NEW YORK SARTORIAL ART
fortably easy front scye, lapels with tastefully HORRORS.
bold rounding sweep, neatly curved toward The New York Herald having engaged an
bottom to conform with front of skirt strap make a pic-
expert high class photographer to
width. And their beautifully beveled tops run- ture of the guests at a recent dinner of the
ning in perfect uniformity with the clean fin- Tilden Club, we here reproduce a true copy of
ished ends of a lengthy yet smooth and hand- a group of three of America's highest class
somely close laying collar, well formed, grace- citizens as they appear in the famous picture.
fully draped sleeves, correctly placed, dex-
terously curved side seams, with tastefully

adjusted relative width of back scye pitch and
hip button space ; breadth of collar ; waist and
skirt length, with sleek hanging back skirt
pleats, delicately arched hips revealing no ten-

dency to scrimpness, neither hugging the fig-
ure nor dangling from it, with prettily curved
waist seam not too hollow over the condylar
point, having a drooping rather than a strictly
horizontal front line finish, while the skirt

width, length and breadth of skirt strap must
all be in perfect cognizance with the size, the
age and personality of the wearer, combining

symmetrical elegance, with the acme of com- And just take a squint at the three of them,
fort, the whole artistic combination proving will you? The Hon. Andrew Jackson Mon-
the cutter and journeyman alike symmetrician tague, governor of Virginia; the Hon. David
past masters of the highest order of dress coat Bennett Hill and ex-President of the United
making. States, Grover Cleveland, as they stand posed
We have time and again been in banquet in their gubernatorial dignity ,and New York
halls surrounded by many hundreds at a sit- "full dress sartorial art" horrors. Much as we
ting, giving us ample opportunity of contem- desire to pass in silent sorrow, these living wit-
nesses of the correctness of our claim concern- by a renewal of early associations, the creases
ing the marvelous lack of dress suit producing appealed to their sense of newness, because of
ability as met with even in the highest lati-

their being so much like what "Mother-uster-
buy-fur-me-an'-ma-ole-dad."
tudes of our trade, we cannot suppress the
wish to put the pertinent query : Why should
men in their position be found fault with when THE NORTH POLE OF DUDEISM.
venturing to import from Canada or Europe
As to the almighty influence of appropriate
suits for dress purposes, or ceremonial func-
dress Carlyle, our most powerful heavyweight,
tions ? Until such time at least as New York literary, cynical, Scotch sledgehammer phil-
tailors may succeed in learning to produce
osopher, although personally the very north
something approaching real sartorial art.giving pole of dudeism, had a true appreciation as
some evidence of ability to produce dress suits evidenced in his immortal Sartor Resartus of
that would not be a disgrace to a Pennsylvania the ever powerful influence of the tailor as a
coal digger, or a banquet of peanut venders. factor in moulding and building up, and also
But what class of progressive or retrogressive establishing of all our varied ancient and mod-
art may we reasonably expect from the pupils ern forms of national civilization.
of teachers of 'a sartorial art," who are them-
selves prompted by such unconceptible clown- THOMAS CARLYLE'S VIEW OF

ish notions as lead them to introduce, and year DRESS.
after year blindly persist in promulgating as
"Society, which the more I think of it, as-
exquisite taste the wearing at full dress cere-
tonishes me the more, is founded on cloth.
monial functions, trousers disfigured with back Often in my atrabiliar moods, when I read of
and front creases in imitation of country store
pompous ceremonials, Frankfort cornations,
ready made, shelf kept goods? This vulgar royal drawing rooms, levees, couches and how
crease fad received such a popular swing in the ushers, macers and pursuivents are all in
the East that it is now a common practice with waiting; how Duke this is presented to Duke
impecunious New York swells to place their that, and Colonel A. by General B. and in-
trousers under the mattress before going to numerable bishops, admirals and miscellaneous
bed. The reason why this gross outrage on functionaries are advancing gallantly to
sartorial art became so very popular may be anointed presence, and I strive in my remot-
traced to the fact of so many of America's

est privacy to form a clear picture of that
citizens having obtained their education in the

and sudden
solemnity as by some enchanters
wand the speak
shall I it? The clothes fall
"little red school house over the hill," where
off the dramatic corps. Dukes, grandees, bish-
in their agrestic, unsophisticated adolescence,
ops, generals, anointed presence itself, every
they became deeply imbued with the idea of
mother's son of them stand straddling there,
the necessity of associating creases with new-
not a shirt on them, and I know not whether
ness, when they saw them represented on the
to laugh or weep ; the whole fabric of govern-
plates of New York fashion reporters, they at ment, legislation, property, police and civilized
once took to- the idea with that old time affec- society .are dissolved in wails and howls."
tionate tenderness that is so 1
warmly inspired Again he says : "As dispicable as we think
them, they are so unspeakingly significant, of man. Call any one a Schnider, is it not in
clothes from the king's mantel downwards, our dislocated hoodwinkedand indeed delirious
not of want only, but of manifold cunning, vic- condition of society equivalent to defying his
tory over want." perpetual fullest enmity ? The epithet Schnider
massig betokens an otherwise unreproachable
SHAKE OFF THE BLUES: man, of pusilanimity ; we introduce a tailor's

melancholy as more opprobrious than any
When your liver is sluggish, and you suffer leprosy into our books of medicine, and fable.
from that tired feeling that accompanies de- I know not what of his generating it by living
pression of spirit, you may shake it off, "the on cabbage ; nevertheless need I put the ques-
blues," by a reading of his advice wherein he tion to any physiologist, whether it is the tailor
says : "Be no longer a chaos, but a world, or has bones and viscera, and other muscles than
even a worlding. Produce ! Produce ! Pro- sartorius? Which function of manhood is the
duce ! were it but the pitfullest infinitesimal tailor conjectured to perform? To the reader
fraction of a product, produce it ; in God's of this volume can it be doubtful which is
name produce it ; it's the utmost thou hast in mine. Nay, if the fruit of these long vigils
the ; out with it then ; up ! up ! whatever thy and almost preternatural inquiries is not to
hand findeth to do, do it with thy whole perish utterly, the world will have approxi-
might ; work while it is called da}', for the mated towards a higher truth which swift
nigtfit cometh wherein no man can work." with the keen forecast of g'enius, dimly antici-
pated will stand revealed in clear light, that
the tailor is not only a man, but something

MORE IN SARCASM THAN IN PRAISE. of a creator Divinity? Of Franklin it is said
It has been claimed that Carlyle wrote Sar- that he snatched the thunder from Heaven,
tor Resartus more in sarcasm than in praise the kingdom from kings, but which is greater
of the tailor ; we, however, are not inclined to I would ask, he that lends or he that snatches ?
that belief, and we think a reading of the fol- For looking away from individual cases and
lowing quotation will confirm the correctness how the man is by the tailor new-created into
of our opinion. Carlyle writes. "Upwards of a nobleman, and clothed not only with wool,
a century must elapse and still the bleeding but with dignity, and a mystic dominion, is
fight of freedom be fought, who is noblest not the fair fabric of society itself, with all
perishing in the van and thrones hurled on its royal mantles and pontificial stoles whereby
altars like Pelion on Ossa. The Moloch of from nakedness and dismemberment we are
iniquity will have his victims, and the Michael organized intopolitics, into nations and a
of justice martyrs before tailors can be ad- whole co-operating mankind, the creation, as
mitted to their prerogatives of manhood, and has often been irrefragably evinced of the
this last wound of suffering humanity be tailor alone? And this is he whom sitting
closed. If aught in the history of the world's downcast on the hard basis of his shopboard
blindness could surprise us, here might we the world treats with contumely, as the ninth
indeed pause and wonder. An idea has gone part of man. Look up, thou injured one, look
abroad and fixed itself into a wide spread up with the kindly eye of hope and prophetic
rooted error, that tailors are a distinct species bodings of a noble, belter time. So long hast
of physiology. Not men, but fractional parts' thou sal there crossed legged, wearing thy
ankle joints to horn, like some sacred anchor- of the Shears, must necessarily be a producer
ite or religious fakir, doing penance, drawing of true art, are the embryo portrait painter can
down Heaven's richest blessings for a world successfully study his subject and produce
that scoffed at thee. Be of hope ; already ideal art portraiture.
streaks of blue appear through the clouds the

thick gloom of ignorance is rolling asunder
and it will be da)'." Enough, we think, has

HOW MEN SHOULD DRESS.
been quoted to prove that the learned author He who disdains his outward personal ap-
of Sartor Resartus in his semi-humorous fan- pearance, scorns the esteem of intelligent, re-
tastic metaphor had no desire whatever to spectable men. Neatness in dress has ever
bring down ridicule on our most ancient order been the true characteristic of the gentleman.
of tailorhood, as established by God in the He avoids gaudy colors and all incongruity of
garden of Eden. See Genesis, third chapter shades. If he has an equal liking for several
and twenty-fifth "Unto Adam and his
verse. colors he will studiously avoid wearing them
wife did the Lord God make coats of skins all at the same time, and if any of them be of
and clothed them." The sequence of an apple an extreme brightness he will carefully ar-
being beautiful beyond resistance. range that the remaining portions of his at-
tire possess some neutralizing influence over

the colored garment, so as not to demonstrate
NO GOOD HISTORICAL PAINTING. any individual peculiarity or eccentricity of

character. Costume colorings are well under-
Other eminent historians, poets, philosoph- stood to be merely a matter of taste, and the
ers, statesmen and learned art critics have had taste of the individual, vulgar or refined, may
much to say in praise of the tailor as being be easily surmised from the color or colors he
the most potent civilizer, creator of gentle- may wear, and by the tout ensemble of his ap-
men, and producer of artists that the world pearance. It is to be conceded, however,
has ever seen. John Ruskin, the most learned that some colors look well on some people that
of our modern art critics, declared that : "No do not on others, the complexion or general
good historical painting ever existed, or ever appearance of the individual rendering a good
can exist, where the dress of the people of the or bad effect, on some looking well, on others
time lacks sartorial art elegance, and had it disagreeably repugnant, gray always giving a
not been for the lovely and fantastic sartorial more aged appearance, while blue has the op-
art work of the thirteenth to the sixteenth cen- A man may, however, be verv
posite effect.
turies, neither French, Florentine nor Ve- certain not to offend refined taste if he acts
netian art could have risen to anything like with a little caution by carefully selecting col-
the rank it did reach." ors turned quiet, a sober black never looking
All of which goes for saying that the tailor out of fashion, but always becoming, genteel
is the chief factor in the art of living por- or elegant, according to the class of wearer.
traiture, and therefore it is only in degree as A man may conceal his bad taste, or perhaps
Brother Brush succeeds in reproducing the no taste at all by a strict adherence to a little
tailors' art that he may reasonably hope to forethought previous to making a selection.
live down through succeeding ages in the his- Some individuals pretend to say that in mak-
tory of fine art portraiture. Ergo, the Knight ing a choice they please themselves, caring not
what people may think of them, claiming that he, Hardie, and "Sockless Simpson" would
they never study to be thought anything of all have lost their individuality and become a
how they appear, and that they can wear any bunch of conspicuous failures as representa-
color with impunity, regardless of how it may tives of the honest, horney-handed sons of toil.
contrast with their general appearance, not When dressed in Prince Albert coat, the most
seeing or else won't see, the horrid combina- essential accompaniments are the stand up
tion, and thus appear conspicuously absurd collar showing- not more than half an inch of
in the eyes of the multitude. In dress, we say, white margin at back of neck, the indispensable
study to please the many. To successfully do dress hat, kid gloves, thin soled, or at least,
this, neatness must be the predominent feature light weight shoes, and medium weight walk-
of the garments ; be scrupuously careful in the ing Never appear wearing a dress hat
stick.
colors you choose, that they may not contrast with anything in the form of a short sacque
too extremely with your general appearance. coat. We, like Thos. Carlyle, did not know
Let it not be said of a man : "What a well "ifwe should weep or laugh." One evening
dressed person he is," but "how gentlemanlike when at a summer garden party we espied two
he dresses." Study not the extreme going handsome men strolling- arm in arm over the
fashion, but strike a happy medium, so as not lawn enjoying their cigar. What a beautiful
to appear conspicuous to the multitude. Think picture, said we ; damned completely by the
well during selection whether your choice will imprudent use of two dress hats, while wear-
create unnecessary remarks among your ing Tuxedo coats. Nor should the dress hat
friends, or uncomplimentary comments ever be
worn livery servants and swell min-
amongst your associates. When once dressed strel troops excepted along with a light col-
forget that you are so ; avoid rigidity, as you ored spring or fall top-coat, or russet shoes.
do slouchiness ; appear easy, as grace is of Such a combination is ever as incongruous as
great assistance to the fitting of the garments, is the wearing of a derby, a straw or soft felt
and the enhancement of the wearer. As a man hat when dressed in a Prince Albert, and as
of business, dress according to your occupa- a matter of bad taste, may be a good match
tion, trade or profession, you knowing best "Lady" who goes out to do her Christ-
for the
what is most pleasing to the taste of the bulk mas shopping wrapped up in South-Sea fur,
of your clientele. Although a man may be while she carries a bunch of tuberoses or
financially independent let him at all events be violets pinned over the region of her innocent
dependent on the good will of his patronage, little heart. Black trousers and russet shoes
which is at all times very much influenced by is another abomination that we are sorry to
dress and general appearance. For example, confess is not by any means strictly confined to
had our sockless statesman, Jerry Simpson, masquerading purposes. Never make a show
put on fancy striped silk half-hose with low in dress, but dress well at all times, so that on
cut russet shoes. Or had James Keir Hardie special occasions when dress is most indispens-
M. P. cast aside his flannel shirt and appeared able you may not appear extraordinary by any
in a white linen one, with high standing col- little additional improvement, and by no
lar and the wide linked cuffs, or had John means show that your study has been to dress
Burns, M. P., for Battersea; on being elected, for the special occasion. Study then neatness,
discarded his double-breasted pea jacket, and simplicity of color, and avoid an outre style of
donned a Prince Albert, dress hat, etc., etc., make up, rather let it be your aim to> have
the approbation of others in a moderate de- the same color, a knowledge of which is of
gree, and don't show to the world by extreme great assistance to the proper selection of
notions and colors, that you are a dude, but suitable trimmings, as silks, velvets, Italians,
study to appear what every intelligent, self- sewings, buttons, etc., etc. Harmony of con-
respecting man is to some extent, desirous of trast is applied to the combination of two or
appearing A GENTLEMAN. As the index more colors. Although the complexion of
tells us the contents of books and directs to customer is but seldom, if ever, considered
particular chapters, so does the outward by the cheap trade tailors in regard to advis-
habit and superficial order of garments give ing becoming selections, it is nevertheless of
us a taste of the spirit of the wearer and dem- great advantage to every class of tailor to be
onstratively point, as it were, a manual note able to wisely guide his patrons in the making
from the margin, showing the internal quality of a suitable choice. For example, the sallow
of the man. There cannot be a more evident, complexioned man to whom you sell a cinna-
palpable, gross manifestation of poor degener- mon brown suit, in all probability, will never
ate dunghilly blood and breeding than a rude, come to patronize you again. His clothes are
unpolished, disordered and slovenly outside. admittedly perfectly satisfactory, as far as fit,
Let a gentleman discover himself in an old make, style, wear and price are concerned, but
worn out coat, soiled neckwear and dirty shoes still there is an undefinable something about
or general negligence of dress, and he will, in the suit, he cannot tell what, that don't please
all probability, show a corresponding disposi- him, and he never thinks of it being the unbe-
tion to heedlessness in address ; or put a thug coming color. The merchant tailor, salesman
in fine clothes, kid gloves and silk hat, and he and cutter should ever bear in mind that no
will right away endeavor to act the gentleman. color should be brought" into proximity with
What an almighty cilivizer is the tailor! the complexion except that which contrasts
agreeably. A complexion of that delicate rosy
tint, so much admired by connoisseurs would
be impaired by contact with a pink or red,
THE STUDY OF COLOR EFFECTS.
but if the complexion had too much color, it
While we do not think it necessary for a might be improved by a contrast of a darker

cutter to make a special study of color effects or deeper tint, rendering the complexion paler
as produced through the hundreds of gradua- by contrast of tone ; the general effect of all
tions of the so-called three primitive colors, dark colors being to make light ones to seem
we do strongly advise a study of the harmony still lighter. Sky blue neckwear can be worn
of analogy and color contrasts. The harmony to advantage by a fair complexioned man ; in-
of analogy is applied to those arrangements deed to him most shades are suitable, the rea-
of color in which they succeed each other in son for which is not far to seek, as by contrast
the order in which they occur in the prism, they produce a more or less orange tint. For
the eye being led in progressive steps from the same reason it is unsuitable to the dark
yellow through green to blue, and dark blue man, he already having a superabundance of
to black, the graduations occurring according orange in his complexion. The effect of white
to the varying proportions of the desired color in any quantity is to throw up the color, which
or shade. Harmony of analogy embraces the it surrounds ; it therefore follows that any
arrangement of the varied shades or hues of color placed upon a white ground will appear
brighter than on a dark or black ground, black The cutter having a superior knowledge of
always lowering the color tones by contrasts, cause and effect, as applied to the selection,
making the skin to appear whiter with the ex- class of g'oods, colors and the most becoming
ception of yellow, or pale orange, which al- individual suitableness of styles. The cutter
ways causes black to seem increased in black- should never obstrusively recommend this or
ness. In dressing our customers our knowl- that style, but he should be ever competent to
edge of the optical effect of color should be answer all queries anent what is most suitable
utilized. How often do we see some fine speci- for this condition or that occasion. The cus-
men of mankind, magnified beyond aldermanic tomer should be so led as to make him feel
proportions, by wearing of a light colored the necessity only of informing his tailor for
suit, or, on the other hand, some man small what purpose the garment or suit is intended.
in stature, attired in black where, if conditions A cutter should never ask A Gentleman
in color of costume selections had been re- "What sort of suit do you want?"' but "For
versed, both men would have been much im- what purpose do you desire a suit ?" and when
proved in appearance, the optical effect of the question is answered the tailor, without
dark and black being to make a seeming re- hesitation, should name the style required and
duction in bulk. Stout men therefore, as a the class of goods from which it ought to be
general rule, should wear dark or black goods, made. This should all transpire before the
and tailors, especially those whose special goods are shown to the purchaser, there be-
privilege it is to work for that class of cus- ing no trace of vacillancy or uncertainty in
tomers who are ever willing to pay for high the cutter's manner or language, but an easy,
class sartorial art should at least be artist dignified, yet courteous, assumption of author-
enough to be able to give this much needed, ity that is not to be doubted and which will
and as we have ever found, highly appreciated carry conviction of its correctness. Such a
advice. stand makes a most favorable impression on

the customer, and he goes away satisfied that
he has placed his order with a tailor who has

a thorough knowledge of his business.
THE CUTTER LIKE THE DOCTOR.
We have for many years discharged the
duties of cutter where our advice was asked
MISCONCEPTION OF HEIGHT
for and received by our customers, as patients THEORY.
do in consulting their doctor. The doctor is
qualified by a course of study to dictate the med- There is a marvelous amount of diversified
icines necessary to> be used in effecting a cure, misinformation of the crude kindergarten
he being thoroughly informed in such mat- school form of misconception abroad anent
ters and therefore competent to apply a rem- the theoretic and practical application of the
total height measure in coat cutting for ex-
edy, while the patient is assumably supposed ;
to know only the location of the pains and ample, the head cutler of one of our large mail
aches that affect him. The cutter filling a po- order trades told us of having placed an or-
sition in the field of dress or realm of fashion der for a set of Raglan patterns with a New
should stand in the same relative position with York publishing house. On receipt of the par-
his customer, as the doctor with his patient. cel the cutter wrote asking information re-
garding the height of men that the various of proportions and disproportions, hence the
sizes were intended to fit, and received a re- cause of so much misfit trouble to cutters, who
ply to the effect that there is no such thing knowing a little don't know enough to be able
in ccat cutting as a height consideration in lo- to understand that they don't know it all.
cating the depth points. The sulphuret lan- These superficial teachers, like the star-nosed
guage used by the cutter above referred to mole, imagine themselves to be extraordinary
when telling us of the reply received we shall deep, when they are exceedingly near the sur-
never quote ; suffice it to say, the New York face. It is a very common occurrence in our
house and all connected with it were con- every day practice to measure a man who is 38
demned beyond redemption, with a free con- breast and six feet high, with a shoulder level,
signment to His Satanic Majesty as a bunch depth of scye and natural waist level one to one
of rancid ignoramuses, and his vulgar, un- and a half inches less than the other 38 breast
repeatable, condemnatory comments, were as customer whose total height is only five feet
vigorously endorsed by some half dozen listen- eight or less even, but simple as the solving of
ers. At the risk even of being- denounced as this problem is, it is seemingly too deep for
another ginkety-jink and blinkety-blink ig- the brain plumet of these total height theory
norant son of a female dog, we declared the teachers to be able to- take soundings. So as
statement made by the New "York publisher to more clearly illustrate the absurd imprac-
to be theoretically wrong and practically cor- ticability of locating the depth levels by a di-
rect. It is to Dr. Wampen that tailors are vision of the total height, let us suppose we
indebted for the accurate scientific adjustment have two men each 42 chest measure, the one
of the theory of disproportion in height as five feet six and the other six feet, the two
compared with circumference, a theory used men having gone through the exact same pro-
by Wampen for the sole purpose of illustrat- cess of muscular development, the muscles
ing a scientific principle, and used only in the trapezus, deltoid, teres major, pictorales major,
neophyte stage of his instruction in the fun- latissmus dorsi, and sarratus magnus all hav-
damental principles of his science. ing" increased in the same ratio, and to the
His seeming, all embracing theory of height same extent in both men, necessarily produc-
as compared with circumference of breast is ing the same depth of acrorrim point level,
so alluringly seductive to the partially in- axilla depth level and natural waist length,
formed cutter that a large number of fakirs all no uncommon condition. We
of which is
whose arrogation to the possession of ability can imagine nothing more ridiculous than a
enabling them to teach the science of cutting sight of those pouter breasted wiseacre, total
in their ill timed, impetuous snatching" at the heig'ht philosophers, gravely posing as teach-
substance, have caught the shadow only ; the ers of sartorial art science, while they sol-
mere abstract form, or speculative subtilities emnly instruct their pupils, explaining that it
and having jumped to the conclusion that is absolutely necessary for them to cut a
"that settles it," without further research their shorter shoulder level, a shorter depth of
misconception of the theory of disproportions scye level, and shorter natural waist line level
is accepted, clung to and taught as being an for the five feet six man, advising all of these
indisputable and practically correct principal "killing" changes, mark ye, for no other rea-
of cutting; in their injudicious haste to "get son than the sole fact of this man's legs being
there ;" they never pause to consider the Ifs six inches shorter than the six footer.
WHAT DR. WAMPEN SAYS. falsity of those shallow fakir, height theory
teachers, whose unsophisticated dupes are
When treating the question of slender form
legion. When the common variations of phy-
at
_
pag e nine of his work, Dr. Wampen states
sical form are more intelligently deliberated
"This OA is at least equal to J b, but it must and Dr. Wampen's absolutely correct system
be taken larger according to circumstances,
of treating them are more generally under-
depending on the height of the figure in the
stood, the ruinous expenses of the busheling
axilla; sometimes O A=lb, at other times
departments will be very much reduced.
equal to -J
b." The same degree of additions
to be made to the 3^ on the front line of the
fore part. * * *
Anthropometry recognize but three differ- THE GREAT BULK OF THE CUTTERS'
ent kinds of form in the human figure pro- TROUBLES.
portionate, slender, and broad. The practical
application of the principle affiliate the second The great bulk of the cutters' troubles are
(slender) on the proportionate, as one scale located within the boundary lines of the crease
is only necessary to form a coat for each kind edge of cellar and the axilla, or scye level
of form, these are normal, where height is

depth, and the cutter who understands Wam-
smaller than breadth, and those whose height pen's method of treatment experiences but lit-
is greater than proportionate to their breadth. tle concern, and now that the Americanized
But as the human figure in this respect Wampen system is within such easy reach,
namely, in the whole height to the thoracical

there is no longer a plausible excuse for the
circumference is very rarely so- far abnormal cutter seeking for, or struggling to secure,
as to render it necessary that it should Be a happy hereafter, by working through a maze

taken into consideration in constructing mod- of dismal brain straining, nervous uncertainty,
els for the arrangement of drapery, this ab-

for herein is an absolutely correct, practically
normality becomes here of no moment, being adjusted, simple method of procedure, a study
purely a scientific question." So writes Dr. of which has never failed to make the great
Wampen ; even in extreme cases the function bulk of the cutters' difficulties avoidable.
of the scale of height is only to define the

supposed natural waist line, and for no other
purpose practically; the breast measure is the
;
THE IMPETUOUS AMERICAN.
sole element of action to form a coat for the
tall thin figure, the height being virtually dor- "What need a man forestall his date of grief,
mant the ever-changing length of body, in And run to meet what he would most avoid."
its relation to the entire height, is too mutable The ever impetuous American as a rule has
to be fixed by any other agency than abso- no time to waste in mastering the prosaic pri-
lute measurement; tall men are occasionally mary details of a trade or profession and
high hiped, and often men of medium height therefore will often with imprudent haste
are found long in the body. make a dash for, and sometimes in one bound,
A mere modicum of discrimination and ra- reaches his most exalted professional aspire-
tional investigation is all that is necessary to ment. "Assume a virtue if you have it not" is
enable the practical tailor to clearly sec the his motto, and there and then he poses as a
specialist, and he often sticks by what he out. The cutter to be thoroughly equipped
proudly calls his "diplomatic nerve," and when for a successful career must first have the-
pressed by necessity because of a lack of oretical and then practical knowledge. This
knowledge of general details, he studies down may be illustrated by taking a glance at the
toward the acquisition of fundamental prin- engineer ; he always works from theory to
ciples. practice ; he theorizes in plans and specifica-
In the old country men do not specialize as tions ; he practices according to theory in ac-
they do in America. In Great Britain the actual construction. The tailor who aspires to
quirement of a more extensive knowledge of a a successful discharge of the duties of the
trade, art or science is imperative, and there- cutting room is distressingly handicapped if
for the system of training is on a broader his avenue of approach lies through a mere
scientific basis, making the Britisher better routine practice of drafting angles and form-
fitted in a general way to keep in touch with ing graceful curves ; his chance of securing
progressive methods. In recent years, how- a leading position in his profession will be
ever, more especially of our

the proprietors, much enhanced if he acquires a theoretical
higher class houses, are awakening up to a fundamental knowledge of how to produce a
realization of the fact that a veneer of mere surface to cover the surface of all the varied
empiricism is now helpless, and the trade is forms of men.

getting to ever more generally understand
that the possession of a basic theoretic knowl-
edge the paramount qualification of a cut-
is
COMPETING FOR CUTTING HONORS.
ter. Dr. Wampen lays down an elaborate
scientifically adjusted theory of heights and If two of our profession were competing for
relative widths, all of which forms an inter- honors the man who has a theoretic knowl-
esting study; its chief purpose, however, is edge of proportions, showing- how to provide
the establishing and illustrating of a scientific for the requirements of the degrees of various
theory, that is metaphorically, rather than forms of disproportions, will come out far
practically correct and therefore of little real ahead of the cutter who has not commenced
value to the more advanced practitioner. In at the beginning by making a study of the
saying this do not suppose us guilty of har- theory of providing for normal and abnormal
boring the erroneous belief that a theoretical conditions. The cutter with theoretic knowl-
knowledge of the principles of cutting are not edge, although not supported by a very
necessary, for we are fully alive to the fact extensive practical experience can always fall
that theory and practice must ever go hand in back on his theory to figure out and provide
hand. Theory without practice to test it, to for abnormalities and will invariably come
verify it, and to correct it, is idle speculation, out ahead of the one that has only his more
while practice without theory to animate it is extensive practical experience and haphazard
mechanism; in every art theory is the soul guessing method, yclepted judgment, but
and practice the body. The soul without a judgment at best is so seldom true and so
body in which to dwell is only a ghost. The often false we claim it is foolish to substitute
body without the soul is only a corpse. The- a mere guess for an ever reliable scientific cer-
ory teaches what may be accomplished when tainty, in the making of allowance to meet the
practice has become skillful enough to work it requirements of abnormal depths, widths, con-
PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRICAL SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE.
cavities and convexities in forms and attitudes Canada selected as their ideal high-class
of customers. Young America, however, soon sartorial art representative to the world's
grows restless of the slow, prosaic, but sure convention of cutters at the Paris Exhibition,
procedure of building with technical details, and who, in recognition of his high-class sar-
the massive structure of sartorial knowledge; torial art ability, was honored by the London
he is impatient; he believes the span of life Master Tailors and Cutters with a most bril-
is too short ; he feels that opportunity is fleet- liant ovation, an elaborately engrossed, gor-
ing, and desiring to- advance with greater geously British framed complimentary ad-
haste; he takes the bit between his teeth and dress, and the most sumptuous banquet ever
starts off at a fierce gallop, thoughtless alike given by the London Sartorial Art Academy
of the prickly cactus field that lies in front of to a visiting foreign sartorial artist, when
him, a la cheval de frise, and the peel of the president of the Master Tailors' and Custom
luscious banana that lies at every turning Cutters' Association, in one of his lectures de-
point, or the creepy chills of the malarial livered in the Sartorial Art Hall, Chicago,
marsh that lies by the wayside, and the dismal said, when speaking of true sartorial art
swamp into which he may be inextricably
plunged, or, peradventure, achieve success.
ANOTHER MAN'S BRAINS.

To the beginner we cannot too emphat-
ically say, give the theory of fundamental
principles your first and most earnest atten-
tion, so that you may be able understandingly

to take hold of and successfully handle each
new condition that comes your way. Become
thoroughly conversant with the whole varied
application of principles. The man who
works from theory to> practice is an artistic
cutter, while he who concerns himself only

with practice is but a machine tender, perhaps
only a cog in the machine which another man's GEORGE W. DU-NAH.
brain has devised and set in motion, like the
rank and men employed in the mail-
file of 'According to my belief, it would be pre-
order and ready-made trade, who are handed posterous to attempt to draft rules or lay down
a pasteboard templet with instructions to chalk laws for the producing of that ever-fickle
around it and hew to the line. commodity designated style. Genius cannot
be fettered by conventionalism. An original
mind, replete with its own exuberance, is sure
GOLD MEDALIST GEORGE W.DU-NAH to burst out in spontaneous overflowings and
George W. Du-Nah, of Edward Ely fame open to itself new channels. General rules
and international renown, whom the Master and abstract principles may and have been laid
Tailors and Cutters of the United States and down and accepted as guides for the inexpe-
rienced and timid. I favor the adoption of all class prices for first-class workmanship, which
intellectual auxiliaries, but when we come to is often the case, it is then even more neces-
the general adoption of curved sticks and sary that he should have a thorough technical
block patterns for the production of style, I education, for if he has not the workmen will
draw a most emphatic taboo' line. The resort- soon discover his lack of knowledge of the
ing to such stereotype methods will damnify trade and unhesitatingly take advantage of
the draftsmanship and stultify the character- this ignorance and work off the too common
istic individuality or style of the most accom- bluff, 'If it had been cut right it would be all
plished cutter that ever scraped edge on a right.' Just as yon can experience a sense of
crayon. In speaking on this subject recently, satisfaction and pleasure at feeling" yourself
Happle Hutcheson said 'When I first came
: safe on shore while you see a ship tossed on
to America and saw such a universal use of the turgid waters of Lake Michigan, or stand
block patterns and curved sticks I endeavored safe in a fortification and view two armies
to discover the cause, and soon became satis- join battle on a plain, the practical tailor can
fied that was simply a sequence of so many
it stand on his technical knowledge, enjoying a
men doing duty as cutters who had acquired perfect sense of safety in the happy possession
no technical knowledge of the trade,' * * * of the fortress of practical truths. From
and, continued Mr. Hutcheson, 'that, in my thence he views the plunging, chancing, bung-
opinion, accounts for such a remarkably con- ling blunders and errors of his less fortunate
spicuous monotypic character predominating competitors who, having had no technical
in American tailoring. American sartorial education, but learned a system only, they are,
art has a truly national character, but a total by their ignorance of the trade they profess a
lack of individuality.' * * * All custom knowledge of, compelled to- hew to the line of
tailors who make pretense of producing artis- their block patterns and curved sticks, know-
tic tailoring and claim to make first-class work ing that they cannot trust to their own knowl-
should never fail to infuse characteristic fea- edge of cause and effect, for a cutter is truly
tures into every garment, each house striving helpless and unsafe up to the measure of his
to excel the other in producing ever more ignorance of the technical or practical branch
acceptable style. And while this principle is of our trade. The adventurer or chancer is
not adopted, I say high-class custom tailors just as likely to catch at the horn of danger
have no right to complain of rich men patron- as he is to grasp the handle of security. Be-
izing the cheap, uniformly stereotype tailors, ing untaught in the fundamentals of the trade,
or find fault with them for sending to Europe he will as readily listen in dull wonder to the
for what will give them a more distinctive crafty schemes of quacks as to the truths of a
tone or character. Just think what a dull, Dr. Wampen, a Dr. Humphrey, or a Happle
monotonous, drab-draped world this would be Hutcheson. Like a blacksmith at the loom
if we were all Quakers and a weaver at the forge, their workmanship

"Block pattern, curved stick, stereotype cut- can only be passed under the dim light of
ting' is pardonable only among the cheap trade ignorance. As well put the cushion-footed
cutters, who are sought after more because of camel in the snow and the swift reindeer in
their ability to give quantity rather than apti- the sands and expect profitable results. * * *
tude to give quality of workmanship. If the "The press and the pulpit have devoted
cutter be working in a house that pays second- much space and time in discussing the ex-
40 PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRICS SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE.
travagance, the vice and the sin of following for his productions may justly be compared to
up the changes of fashion, but all to no pur- the tall-masted, stately ship that we see gliding
pose, except that of showing the inconsistency up the river against the stream, as if drawn by
of their own practice. Cutters all know that some invisible tow-line, her sails hanging un-
while ministers preach down the practice of filled, her flag drooping. She has neither side
being guided by fashion in dress, there is no wheels nor stern propeller, still she moves on
class of men so fastidious anent the little de- in stately and seeming serene triumph, as if
tails of their make-up as clergymen are. The by the force of her own internal life, but we
generally accepted ideal sporting dude masher know that on the other side, hidden behind
'is not in it' with Mr. Clergyman when it the ship's great bulk that moves so majestic-
comes down to what most men esteem mere ally, she has a little tug lashed to her side that
minor matters. Ministers know the social and is doing all the work. We also know that if
awe-inspiring spiritual power of details in the hawser slips or snaps, the great, ship will
sartorial art work, hence their scrupulous immediately begin to wallow, roll about, and
care. Those 'pious men,' when denouncing a drift hither and thither, a helpless and profit-
following of style or fashion, should ever re- less craft. Cut from the anchorage of his
member that while there is a concealment that block patterns and curved sticks, the cutter
is justifiable, there is also an open-mouthed who quack
graduates under the tuition of
humility that is censurable. When there is no
teachers becomes a plaything for the billows
David in the camp, Goliah is bolder in blas-
the compass he steers by is lost, his system is
pheming. There is no subject in or out of
broken up, the rudder of his craft is un-
heaven that occupies so much of men's atten-
shipped, and all his cherished hopes blasted.
tion as their personal make-up, and with this
fact ever staring us in the face, we, as a pro-

The very essence of art is truthfulness.
fession, cannof afford to stop searching for Nothing is so contemptible to the true artist
the hidden secret of the science of progressive as artifice. I therefore cannot too strongly
sartorial evolution. The beautiful in art drap- recommend the non-acceptance of subterfuge
ery is referred to by Socrates as 'a short-lived appliances and a more diligent application to
tyranny,' while Plato speaks of it as 'the spe- the cultivation of individual taste, style, and
cial privilege of nature's favorites,' Theo- character. * * *
phrastus comes pretty near the truth when he "I would like to see you forming an explor-
speaks of it as being 'a silent cheat.' Theoc- ing party for the purpose of starting out in
ritus declares it 'a delightful prejudice,' Crea- search of the occult mysteries of the science
des as a 'solitary kingdom of concrete contin- of 'progressive evolution in sartorial styles.'
uity.' Domitian said that 'nothing was more At first sight the mere superficialist will be apt
grateful.' Aristotle affirmed 'it is better than to regard my proposition as a Utopian dream
all the letters of recommendation in the world,' and view it as an unmitigable, hypochondriacal
and Ovid proclaims it 'an especial favor be- hallucination, but nevertheless the man whose
stowed by the sartorial gods.' The block mental penetration is keen enough to' see
pattern brigade of cutters could never consist- deeper than the polished crust of optimism,
ently hope to merit such distinguished comr cannot fail to duly appreciate my recommen-
plimcnts. The cutter who depends on blocks dations."
SARTORIAL OUTLINE BEAUTY. glaring, but diversified." Tastes differ. That

is not our idea of beauty, but more like our
Sartorial art outline beauty, or beauty in
idea rather of a wax figure for a Marshall
anything, for that matter, is a marvelously
Field display window. Here is another great
flexible platitude; it is a self-evident, undefin-
man's failure to define human beauty, donat-
able something called harmony. But harmonic
ed by El Ktab, a Mohammedan : "Beauty dis-
beauty, though everywhere acceptable and no-
where denied, contains the most enigmatic of
plays four forms of black hair, eyebrows,
eyelashes, and eyes ; therewith four forms of
For what is beauty? Aristotle,
riddles.
who wrote so very agreeably on the subject,

white skin, eyeballs, teeth, and hands ; there-
was unable to provide but the

with four forms of pink tongue, lips, gums,
a definition ;
and cheeks ; therewith four forms of head,

ability which he lacked, he was artful enough
neck, forearm, and ankles ; therewith four
"The question one we
to conceal, saying,
may leave to the blind." What
is
suggestion
forms of length back, fingers, arms, and
legs ; and likewise four forms of narrowness
could be more
Plato is
sleek
even more reprehensible.
and less satisfactory?
In discuss-
eyebrows, fingers, nose, and lips. These
twenty-four points, if not satisfactory, surely
ing the subject he lugged in by the heels his
are at least abundant enough to be delightful.
theory of reincarnation, declaring that the
Beauty, if at all definable, may be defined as
charm of harmonic contour "is due to remi-
harmony. Its essence lies in the power of
niscences of what we once beheld when we
attraction, and when real it not only allures
were better than what we are." What could
but also detains ; it appeals and appalls our
be less exact than that, .and what could be
sense. Beauty belongs alike to the lily and
more poetic? word derived from
Poetry is a
the panther ; we see it in the lamb and in the
a Phoenician term which means "discourse of
cobra, in the babe at the bosom and the buz-
the gods." Without knowing anything very
zard at its prey. Define it, will you, if you
much about the latter, we are convinced that
can? An analysis is fatal to it. Du-Nah de-
their discourses also lacked definitions. The
clares : "It would be preposterous for tailors
Olympians exhaled the beautiful. Aristotle
to draft rules or lay down laws for producing
and Plato fed on it. It was ambient in the
that ever-fickle commodity." Du-Nah is
atmosphere of the Greeks. Yet what it is,
RIGHT.
and of what it consists, philosophers and gods
alike have omitted to say ; and therein, per-
haps, lay their wisdom. If the charm of the

beautiful can ever be routed, we are of the
HOW TO MEASURE.
belief that it will be by discussion. Burke
Our routine of taking and entering meas-
attempted the task, and we think succeeded
ures in the order book, like all the rest of our
admirably. Here, according to him, are the
work, is simple in form and free from confu-
properties on which beauty depends : "First,
sion, being always intelligible to the cutter
to be comparatively small second, to be
;
even who practices the most confused of
smooth ; third, to have a variety in the direc-
scatter-brain methods. The measures as here
tion of parts ; fourth, but to have these parts given for the purpose of showing the order in
not angular ; fifth, to be of delicate form which they should be taken and entered in
sixth, to have colors bright and clear, not book will produce a pattern of the same pro-
portion as the drafts we give in teaching be- doxical element of it being almost impossible
ginners. to take a measure that is indisputably correct,
because of its being ever subservient to the
James B. Bishop, Inland Revenue Dep't, will, fancy, or judgment of the measurer and
North James street, Hamilton, Ont. the advice of the customer, and therefore is
Ship Jan. 22, per Adams Express, C. O. D.
productive of the most varying results ; but the
$6 S .
young aspirant for sartorial fame must not
Three-button frock; edges single stitched; allow a knowledge of this fact to have a dis-
usual pockets ; silk lined ; sweat shields. Try couraging influence upon him, because the
on Tuesday at 4 p. m. finished Saturday at
;
difficulty will ever be more or less common,
noon. 2f, 9, 16-}, 18-]-, 33, y\, 19I, 31-]-, 36, according to the experience or ability of the
32, 37, 12-k n-J. cutter, notwithstanding even the gorgeous vi-
Single-breasted notch-collar vest; no back sions and bold, extravag'ant statements of fake
straps ; usual pockets, with flap to button. One teachers of bogus systems and inventors of
inside b. p. 14, 24^, 36, 32. mechanical devices for harnessing up the cus-
tomer and translating the "correct" size, form,
Coat measure reads as follows : Shoulder and position to the pattern paper.
level, 2f; depth of scye, 9; natural waist,
16J; fashionable waist, i8|-; full length, 33;

across back, j\, and on to elbow, 195 ; con- THERE ARE NO ACTUAL MEASURE-
tinue to lower edge of knuckle joint of wrist, MENT SYSTEMS.
31 \; breast, 36; waist, 32; seat, 37; strap from
back neck to front of scye depth level, 12.\;
. We never have had, and I think never will
have, a literal, actual measurement system.
blade from center of back to front of scye
These measures are taken
We make the assertion, leaving doubt and
depth level, i\\. all
Although
theoretic incredulity to gnaw the bare state-
with the coat off, and over the vest.
we get the breast and waist measure when

ment. We know there are many so-called
actual-measurement systems, but their mak-
measuring for the coat, we always repeat the
ers do not seem to realize the fact that actual
operation in measuring for vest, because many
measurement means actual distance, requiring
when being measured inflate their chest from
no -judgment whatever to settle the question.
one to three inches, and by the time the cutter
The actual length of a yard is thirty-six
gets to taking the chest measure for the vest
inches net, and no suave-tongued theorist can
the customer as a rule has ceased to think of
alter the fact. And as far as the cutter is
doing the chest-expansion act, and in this way
concerned, he has no clearly defined, actual
the vest measure serves as a most reliable
measure distance for either depth, breadth, or
check in verifying the correctness or incor-
length; the points are all ill-defined, indefi-
rectness of the chest measure as taken for
nite, vague, and fantastical. In all the so-
coat.
called measures of the human form, the cutter
as yet has not one measure that cannot be
A PARADOXICAL ELEMENT IN
taken more or less as the individual judgment
MEASURING.
of the cutter may deem correct and ; cutters
Although measuring a customer appears, even are fallible and may err. There are no
and is, a very simple process, it has the para- actual depth, width, height, or length points
in coat measuring. They may be taken too Short figure S. Full chest F. C.
long or too short; the circumference may be Broad figure B. Narrow chest.. .N. C.
more or less, as the taste or judgment of the Erect figure E. Full back F. B.
cutter may dictate ; and we know that all will Stooping figure. ...S. Narrow back. ..N. B.
agree with us in saying- there is no actual Long neck L. N. Round back. . . .R. B.
measurement in that. One cutter in his judg- Short neck S. N. Hump back H. B.
ment will declare it is 35^, a second will claim Thick neck.. . .Tk. N. Large blades. . .L. B.
it is 36, while a third will swear it is 35J, and Thin neck. . . .Th. N. Small blades. ...S. B.
neither be correct. In cases where the abnormal condition is
very pronounced, add the letter V. or E.,

meaning "very" or "extra." When a meas-
HOT-AIR BILLOWS. ure, for example, shows a very long neck, and
yet the total scye depth is normal 3J shoulder
Laboring under such perplex conditions, be-
level and 9 depth of scye level, these fig-ures
wildered by numerous thoughts, enmeshed in
show that the neck is one inch longer than
the web of delusion, held in bondage by lines
normal, and, the total depth of scye being
of prejudice or lashed on a flimsy raft of ex-
only 9, he is very flat over the shoulder-blade
pectancy and tempest-tossed on the "hot-air"
section, showing that he is extra erect to the
billows of conceited, self-assertive, visionary
extent of one inch. If these figures were sup-
hypothesists, ambitious, unsophisticated
ported with the initial letters thus, 3f V. L.
youths, in answering the clarion call to future
N., 9 E. E., all doubt regarding their correct-
fame, are too often lured to the acceptance
ness would be removed, as the letters signify
and practice of shallow, unreliable, false-con-
"very long neck" and "extra erect;" or if the
structed systems.
above condition were reversed, if V. S. N., 9
R. B., we here have a very short neck with
OUR INITIAL ALPHABETICAL AUX- round back, the neck being one inch shorter
ILIARY. than normal, while the back is one inch round-

er than normal. These two figures are both
Recognizing the difficulties attending the
the same height and breast measure, but we
securing of absolutely correct measurements, have a difference of two inches in their shoul-
often causing doubt to arise in the mind con- der level or neck length, and also a difference
cerning the reliability of the measures as en- of two inches between the shoulder level point
tered in the order book, we advise the use of
and depth of scye level point, and yet the total
a few short check measures, combined with scye depth is the same. The Dr. Wampen
the adoption of our initial alphabetical auxil-
science places the goods exactly where it is
iary, the following list of which comprises the After a cutter learns how to work
required.
initial letter of nearly all the varied forms of
out the system, the cutting of coats for such
disproportion met with in our every-day
ill-shaped figures gives the cutter no concern
practice.
whatever, because Dr. Wampen has given us
Normal figure N. Hollow waist. .H. W. a science that is equal to every emergenc)'.
Corpulent figure. . . C. Large hips L. H. Depth of scye, height of neck, or length of
Thin figure Th. High shoulders. H. S. natural waist, etc., can always be accurately
Tall figure Tl. Sloping sh'lders. S. S. located by a thirds and fourths divisional sys-
tern for the tailor's accepted strictly normal around that practice without knowledge must
figure only. The size or measure of each sec- terminate. Imperfect old theories shall and
tion and subsection of the human figure are are being discarded to give place to less com-
all alike variable, and as independent of the plicated, more progressive, up-to-date, scien-
breast measure or total height as are the size tifically adjusted efficiency. As this simple,
of the head, hand, nose, or foot. All of which self-evident fact becomes a matter of more
should now be clear to the understanding of general knowledge, American teachers of the
the most obtuse, non-progressive cutter who art of cutting will be forced to waken up and
clings to the old, delusive, pernicious practice break away from their old minus and plus
of drafting by breast division and height meas- divisional methods as constructed by that ven-
ure theories that are of no use except in erable old Scotchman Duncan MacArra, who
speculative cutting, as laid down by Dr. Wam- in his day and generation was regarded as the
pen, for the mere purpose of illustrating a greatest sartorial light of the age, not even
truly scientific principle of practical artistic excepting the famous old Welshman H.
cutting; and just as long as cutters continue Evens, who at a more recent date, i. c, 1830,
to draft by those mossback, shuttlecock, hit- published his work entitled "Llysorn y Dyl-
and-miss, thirds, fourths, sixths, twelfths leaydd" (Tailor's Lantern).
plus and minus systems, just so long shall
their cutting and fitting any one outside of
"stock size and form" be a mere game of A CRACKER- JACK CUTTER.
chance. Mr. Joseph- Black, a bona fide tailor, an
erstwhile cracker-jack Chicago cutter, and now
the happy proprietor of one of our most pros-
DAMNING THE JOURNEYMAN.
The rising generation of cutters, however,
are in a more general way seeing and feeling
the necessity of being conversant with the first
principles of their profession, just as employ-

ers are becoming ever more anxious to engage
only those who possess technical knowledge
and can prove their ability to intelligently
show a tailor how to make
guide, instruct, or
a garment and work it up into good form.
The day of incompetent cutters holding down
their job by being past masters in the art of
smooth bluff, and knocking of fellow-em-
ployes, and at every stage of the game blaming
and damning the journeyman, is slowly pass-
ing out of existence, although there are yet a MR. JOSEPH BLACK.
large number of men filling positions, in fine
trades even, who are marvelously ignorant of perous exclusive, high-class trades, on a mem-
the detail work of our trade. In the highest- orable occassion, when speaking comparative-
class trades, however, the ukase is passing ly of the merits of the many systems in past
and present use, said in part : "A knowledge of room accommodation preventing him from
the Dr. Wampen system makes a cutter's life employing a larger number a difficulty that
worth living, and when it is placed on the has now been overcome, the firm having se-
dissecting table alongside of other systems, we cured a twenty-seven year lease of a Franklin
soon hear the dull, dead, hollow, disappearing street ten-story building, where an allotment
plunk of the great bulk of them as they plunge of cutting-department space has been made for
into the sullen waters of oblivion like a frog the accommodation of seventy-nine cutters,
into a pond." giving the firm an easy cutting capacity of
more than seven hundred suits per day. Mr.
Yonkers being overseer of such a large work-
OVER SEVEN HUNDRED SUITS PER ing staff of cutters and a keen observer, he
DAY. has a most excellent opportunity for drawing
contrasts and arriving at intelligent compari-
E. H. Yonkers, of Ed. V. Price & Co., is
son of practical results. We, in fact, know
deservedly conceded the honor of being by far
of no young man who has acquired a prac-
the most successful head cutter and general
tical knowledge of more systems, Wampen's
supervisor of any of Chicago's mail-order
included, than has Air. Yonkers, and for the
trades, being in every respect master of
his position, capable of increasing the ef-
especial benefit of those who contemplate a
cutting career we here give in part what he

says anent the Wampen system : "It has been
my special privilege to see the practical results

of a greater number of systems of cutting
than most men who are old enough to be my
father, and tbere is no doubt in my mind

concerning the superexcellence of the Wam-
pen system. It is without doubt a most elabo-
rately adjusted sartorial art light, dispelling all
technical darkness and exposing subtle falla-
cies, and, like every perfectly adjusted scien-

tific principle, it is a marvel of comprehen-
siveness, embracing every detail, yet so easily
understood and so simple to practice I recom-

mend it not only to beginners but to old
practitioners as well."
E. H. YONKERS.
ficiency of his help by reason of his

thorough technical knowledge, and capacity
JOHN SANDELANDS PREDICTS UNI-
for handling details qualities which have VERSAL ADOPTION.
won for him the hearty admiration and
loyal support of his colleagues. Mr. Yon- In the inauguration of the house of Nicoll
kers' regular staff of forty-seven cutters the Tailor was laid the foundation of a new
had to be increased during the rush of last era in American popular-priced merchant tai-
busy season to fifty-five, the lack of cutting- loring. Nicoll has had many imitators but
never a peer. The marvelous success of this was the source of a rather heated controversy.
famous house is largely due to the ever-re- Mr. Veale having declared that he had solved
sourceful brain treasury of Mr. John Sande- the problem and forever silenced all conten-
lands, whose management at headquarters tion; anent the correct location of the shoul-
and his skillful directorship of Nicoll's half der point. In replying to a toast at the Cut-
hundred or more branch houses is proof suf- ters' banquet following the occasion of his
ficient of Mr. Sandelands being endowed in a capturing the gold medal for the best cut coat,
marked degree with rare business perspicuity. Mr. Veale is reported as saying in part:
When speaking of the recommendable and "After serving my apprenticeship I left the City
censurable features of the many systems in of Cork to go to London, where I jured it, until
common use Mr. Sandelands said: ''During I made money enough to take me to America.
my twenty-five years' experience as an em- I was not long in this country until I arranged
ployer of a large staff of cutters I have ever for receiving a full course of personal instruc-
found that the men who understand the

Wampen system invariably have the least
trouble in giving satisfaction to our customers.

Wampenite cutters never seem embarrassed
when handling odd forms of men. All other
systems, when placed comparatively alongside
of the Wampen science, appear as mere twink-
ling, blinking sparks that socn scatter, flicker,
and expire under the vivid and ever-enduring
refulgence of Wampen's anthropometrical
science, which is "from ostentation and weak-
ness free." It stands as the great cerulean
arch of our profession, majestic in its own
simplicity, and embracing all that is compre-
hensible. In our branch houses, where we do
so much no-fit-on trade, we can always make
room for a respectable, sober cutter who uses
the Wampen system ; and I feel safe in ven- JAMES VEALE.
turing the prediction that the day is not far tion from - who at that time was the most
distant when the Wampen method will be uni- popular of American authors and teachers of
versally adopted by all intelligent, up-to-date cutting, and I assure you, gentlemen, although
cutters whose desire it is to keep up in line I had a large measure ofsuccess, I had trou-
with the front rank of artistic tailoring;. bles enough to save me from being afflicted
with the swelled head. * Some years
later I arranged with Mr. for a course
-THE CELEBRATED FRENCHMAN of instruction; he was then and is today the
FROM CORK." most successful popular American author and
Gold Medalist James Veale, author of the teacher of cutting. * * * In the mean-
much talked of Fag-An-Bealac Admeasure- time I discovered that the two systems I. had
ment System, which some fifteen years ago learned were only derivations of Dr. Wain-
pen's science of anthropometry, and that as a gallery, from which may be viewed Mr. Har-
matter of fact, the closer I could get to the per's working staff of nearly five hundred
Wampen science the nearer I would be to ab- coat makers, all comfortably at work in what
solute perfection in the art of cutting. I there- is not only the largest custom coat maker's
fore tried to secure Wampen's Science of An- workshop in America, but with its lofty ceil-
thropometry and I am glad to be able to say ing and great skylights it is the most health-
that I, to some extent succeeded. I got a copy ful, being the brightest, cleanest, best-ventilat-
of the work from an old tailor by the name of ed, and most replete in every up-to-date mod-
Jinkens, whom. I regret to say is a Sos-an- ern equipment, including electric power for
ach, but a very good sort of man for all that. sewing machines, heating of irons, and fur-
The work, however, was pretty well used up, nishing- of light for his present staff of four
a number of leaves were lost, and a lot of hundred and eighty-seven coat makers. All
them partly destroyed and tattered, but, muti- his work being furnished, by the middle and
lated as the book was, I gathered much val- better class trades of Chicago and merchant
uable information from it ; which proved of tailors throughout the Middle, Western, and
great assistance to me in the more thorough
completion of my Fag-an-Bealac Admeasure-
ment System, which, as the name implies,
clears the cutter's road to success. * * *
But, gentlemen, after all is said and done,

Dr. Wampen's Anthropometric Science is the
daddy of them all." Mr. Veale, who was very
becomingly costumed in the dress of an Irish
gentleman, resumed his seat amidst a tumult
of bewildering and most uproarous applause.
The Chicago Times.
MAKING COATS BY ELECTRICITY.

Mr. John Harper has for many years been
popularly known to the Chicago trade and MR. JOHN HARPER.
throughout the Middle as well as the Western-
and Southern States as "Harper the Chicago Southern States, giving Mr. Harper, like Mr.
coat maker," an antonomasia that all who Sandelands and Mr. Yonkers, a most excellent
know him unite in declaring he has honestly opportunity of comparing the practical results
-
earned. The magnitude of Mr. Harper's busi- of a great variety of cutting .systems. He,
ness having so far outgrown the workshop ac- however, emphatically refused to give an ex-
commodation limit of any of Chicago's obtain- pression of opinion as to which, according to
able great warehouse lofts, he last fall secured his judgment, is the best system for producing
a lease of the Northwestern University Dental the most satisfactory results. "But," con-
College. The north balcony of this great tinued he, "I must in all fairness admit that
lecture hall is now transformed into a visitors' cutters who 1
use the Wampen system turn out

48 PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRICS. SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE.
coats of most graceful outline and seeming MOST HAPPY RESULTS.

perfect balance. The Wampenite cutters' al-
terations, or, to speak more correctly, adjust-
Mr. M. Filitti, ex-librarian of the Master
ments, are hardly ever more than corrections

Tailors and Custom Cutters' Association, is
of lengths. So much so is this the case we

a practical tailor and takes a special pleasure
in doing much of his own cutting. In con-
usually put in the pockets and sew up the
nection with his regular high-class city trade
waist and side seams when making try-ons for
Mr. Filitti seems to control the great bulk of
cutters who use the Wampen system ; and I
can assure you if the Wampen system can be

furnished to the trade in book form, couched
in plain English, giving full details of all its
practical applications for the production of all
forms and sizes, there will be an enormous

demand for the work. / say so because of
my personal knowledge of facts. There are
a great number of intelligent cutters who are
very frank in confessing that they experience
much trouble in procuring satisfactory out-
lines when called on to draft very small or
extra large sizes, a difficulty that those who
use the Wampen system never seem to expe-
rience."
OUR RISIBLES STRAINED. M. FILITTI.
Air. E. Halseth, cutter for the highest-class Chicago's exclusive rich Italian patronage.
trade in Los Angeles, California, said to us Air. Filitti says : "My practice with the Dr.
"I cannot understand how cutters get along AA^ampen system is replete with the most
who do not know the AVampen system." AAHiile happy, satisfactory results."
thecomment produced a strain on our risibles,
we replied "You ought to know, seeing that
:
you had been cutting for some years before A STORM OF MISFITS.
we taught you the Wampen science." "Yes,"
he answered sadly, "but I want to forget that." John F. MacRae, Chicago's famous Scotch
Far from our mind the thought that cutters Highland tartan kilt maker, in one of his con-
cannot get along without a knowledge of the tributions to the Record of Fashion, London,
A'Vampen system, because we have a most England, said in part : "There is nothing super-
r
vivid knowledge of the fact that cutters can ficial or assumed in AA ampen's works, hence
r
and do, but wc also know that the most suc- the commonplace, 'The AA ampen school of
cessful cutters of the highest-class trades, cutters are familiar with all the good points
no matter how eminent they may be, always of all the g-ood systems.' because all the good
achieve still greater fame after they learn to points of all good systems arc incorporated in
draft and grade by the Dr. Wampen system. the Wampen science. Those who cut by other
systems as a rule have but a dim, far-away mon people do not eat the best cuts of meat
conception of the supreme plenipotence of and drink more commonly wines of the rarest
Wampen's science of anthropometry. The vintage?" We answer, there are a number of
Doctor has given to our trade an ever-reliable reasons that have contributed to the unhappy
sartorial art light, a knowledge of which condition of preventing Wampen's system
saves cutters from being led astray by the from being in common use. Chief among
ever-perilous suavity of clap-trap, ignis-fatuus them was the fact of the learned Dr. Wampen
illusionists, whose ever-evanescent produc- being neither a book peddler nor a pupil
tions are solicitor, and, being financially independent,
he, under the protection of stringent European
copyright laws, held his book at a very high,
and what was to the great bulk of the trade
an absolutely prohibitory, price. His tuition
fee was also far beyond the cash-paying
power of the ordinary sewing tailor, the price
for a complete course being ioo guineas
(more than $500), while his book cost 10
($50), and many who purchased or borrowed
his anthropometrical works discovered that
they had got a book couched in lofty, academ-
ical pedantry entirely beyond their intellectual
grasp a fact that has been, and still is to a
very great extent, taken advantage of by a

certain class of cutting-school proprietors,
publishers of monthly fashion-reporting jour-
nals, and authors of feather-weight systems of
the non-progressive, mossback order, whose
JOHN F. MacRAE. innate, dominative self-love, passions, and
prejudices have confounded their altruistic
"Like the snowflake on the river,
conception of both brain and heart, until they
A moment seen, then gone forever;
became so conscience-warped they can without
Or like the Borealis race,
scruple resort to the most ignoble procedures
That flit ere ye can point their place
Or like the rainbow's lovely form,
to attain their sordid purpose. We say they
Evanishing amid the storm of misfits.'

took advantage of this condition for reasons
that are obvious, and to a large extent they

succeeded in pulling the wool over the eyes
of the trade by talking and writing a tremen-
HOW DOES IT HAPPEN?
dous amount of sheer balderdash concerning
It is sometimes asked, "How does it

the necessity of tailors requiring to make a
happen that the Dr. Wampen system of draft- special study of anatomical and algebraical
ing and grading is not in common use ?" The science before they could learn to successfully
query is often met by asking another ques- practice the Wampen system, which, as a plain
tion, as, "How does it happen that the com- matter of fact, when shorn of its lofty, aca-
demical diction, is so simple to learn and suc- C to fashionable waist level D if. From O
cessfully practice that any tailor who has in- square in to F 3 from
; A
square in to G 7J
telligence enough to understand the figures on from B to H square in 35 and continue out to
the common inch tape can learn it and apply I 7-J from B ; from C to J 2}. From I to L
it understanding^ and successfully; and in square up 3^ and on to M 5! from I. Square
that simple fact those narrow-minded, sordid, up from F to N f . Form top of back from
money-grabbing teachers saw their finish, N to O. At s / 10 from point N toward O form

hence their phantom, collegiate course scare- shoulder seam through point M and side seam
crow. The management of our gaslight com- through points L, PI, and J to I below square
panies might, with as much claim to a com- line at D. We cut down one-quarter of an
mon-sense consideration, advance the assertion inch below square line for the purpose of
that in order to be able to turn on electrical having hip tack on a level with hip buttons
light, heat, or power with any degree of when coat is finished. It is unsightly, but
human safety it is eminently essential to take notuncommon, to see the hip tack below hip
a course of study in the higher branches of button level. Form back scye from M. L. by
scientific electrical engineering. Just as Edi- adding J to width of back at point M. One-
son has given to us the use of electric light, quarter slanting out at point M produces a
heat, and power through the simple process of fairly broad shoulder, but if very broad shoul-
turning an insulated switch, so has Dr. Wam- ders be desired, increase the slant to* the de-
pen given to tailors the full force of his com- sired width. Bevel off a trifle at scye end of
plete system of anthropometrical science shoulder seam, so as to' "clean up" back scye,
through the simple use of our 36-unit gradu- and on back seam at C "clean out" the small-
ated tapes. And now we say to 'the hood- est paring, not more than one-sixteenth of an
winked of our craft, hoiw, long will you con- inch. Mark in from point O at top of back
tinue to hunt for happiness through systems seam to point +- ij. Place straight edge at
that breed despair? point marked thus, +- with edg"e slanting out
to, and resting on, point D a: fashionable

waist length, and from D draw line down to
full length E 33 inches. Square in from E
PREPARING TO DRAFT, AND HOW to E 2.\ and form straight line froin bottom
TO DO IT.
of side seam to E. Add on 1-], as per line P. P.
The way is not "always the best, but

easiest and also \\, as per line R. R. at back seam.
the easiest way to produce the best results is Those readers who love to stand on the moun-
and therefore we advise all who desire being tain peak of our profession, but who dread the
expeditious draftsmen to memorize the fol- travel toil of climbing, are prone to deride
lowing set of figures in the order in which we our advice when we say that the student
give them, before they make the slightest should not think of trying to draft a back pat-
attempt to produce the draft of a pattern. To tern until after he has all the above points
produce the skeleton points of back pattern, thoroughly memorized. Neither should he
draw construction line from vertex point O attempt to make further advancement than
'
to D1
mark down from O to shoulder level

;
back-pattern drafting until such time as he
point A if; from A to depth oi scye level B can produce, without hesitancy of action, a
7.} ; from B to natural waist level C 7^ ; from clear, clean-outlined back pattern draft abso-
PLATE.
lutely free from any indication of the curve body when applied on a straight line from
line of beauty being anywhere marred by points M to N. Place angle line of back tag
either the slightest jinkey inward bending or G. N. on angle line E. D. of breast. With back
semblance of outward humpiness. When cut- in this position form shoulder seam as shown
ting back pattern, always leave on tag at on diagram. From F to K square up \\, and
shoulder seam as marked by dotted lines, and from K out to R
8 J from to^ S 1^
; from S A ;
be very particular to cut sharp and square to E i-J-, or as fashion may dictate or taste
through point B 7, splitting chalk-line angle desire. Place back, edge and edge with side
from N to G a line that we heretofore omit- body at L, and from back seam through to P
ted telling you to draw, because we wish to on waist line, making allowance for the fish
emphasize the importance of it being located taken out at H. Mark
I. the net half waist
and cut through with the most scrupulous measure 16. From P to inner front edge
care. The very important part that this tag line 2.\ is added for making up allowances
plays in unerringly conserving the perfect bal- for one-button frocks, and for three-button
ance of coat will in due course be self-demon- frocks add on 3 \ from point P to point Q at
strative. front waist. Make a pivot at point U on
The student having attained proficiency as shoulder seam \ inch in from gorge, and
a drafter of frock coat back patterns, may sweep from N through V to front. Draw
now proceed to memorize the skeleton points straight line from N to point where front
of breast, as per Plate A. Commence by waist line crosses sweep line at X, and form
drawing construction line O. O. From start- waist seam, hollowing up at Y i|-, less or
ing point O to A 2f, less or more, according more, according to taste or fashion. Form
to fashion or style desired; from point O to front edge E. R. Q. and X. Adjust width of
B 31 ; from point B to C 65. Square in from shoulder from point of gorge to scye point
starting point O to D 2\. From B locate to match back shoulder seam. In forming
shoulder point level E 7f, same as back shoul- shoulder seam hollow sligiitly at point U
der point level G. Draw line from point D to and round off as per diagram. Form scye
point E. Square across from C to F Si ; con- through K to N, sinking below horizontal
tinue through to G at 9 from C; from G line at point marked thus, X, and see that the
down to H 7\. From H square out waist scye line is an unwavering curvature. When
line and mark point f from H. By points
I forming side body, after passing gracefully
I and G square out to J 8J. Between points over the rounding to form receptacle for
H and I take out fish half an inch to three- shoulder blade, see to it that there be left no
quarters wide. Place back in position as in suspicion of humpiness on side seam ; neither
diagram. Square in at L if and form side must it look hollowed out, although leaning
body as per M. L. N., rounding off top of side gently toward the hollow form until point L
seam \, taking nothing off at point of round is reached. Then let the chalk line veer
over shoulder blade as per diagram. Mark slightly outward toward the final point N. If,
top point of side body in advance from point after passing over the shoulder blade round-
of side seam of back. Measure on a straight ing, the side seam be hollowed, the coat will
line from top of side seam of back to bottom be "killed ;" and if it be left full or rounding,
the net length, on a straight line from point. it will be utterly destitute of good form, caus-
to point, will give the correct length of side ing handsome young men to appear as if af-
52 PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRICAL. SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE.
flicted with some lumbaginous malady. When worse than foolish degenerates who cherish
the aspirant to sartorial art fame has become the imbecile notion of being able to acquire a
as proficient in drafting fore part of coat as "complete knowledge" of a foreign language

we advised him to qualify as a drafter of in six easy lessons a silly idea that grows
backs, he will henceforth experience no diffi- out of the fact of their having no desire to
culty whatever in producing a pattern for any submit themselves to the "intolerable toil" of
given size of coat. We therefore say to the a reasonable amount of study. They would
student, continue drafting what we have given delight to stand on the mountain peak of their
to you until all trace of amateurishness is re- profession, but, as we have already said,
moved from your handling of the tape, square, they dread the travail toil of climbing,
chalk, shears,and general outlines of draft, a weakmindedness that often causes he who
and never under any circumstances whatever would try to make plain a new reform
allow your pipeclay to become blunt. Keen, to feel discouraged, because of the impatience
clear chalk lines are a potent incentive to the of those who think they should master in an
journeyman to produce good clean work. It hour a subject that for many years, perhaps,
is the untutored, narrow-minded only that can may have taxed the brain power of brainy
see but little in seeming trifles. A look may men. Scorn to live in lethargy and die in
work thy ruin or a word create thy wealth ; a ignorance, rather than study that you may be
warrior standing in successful bravery against able to grasp concentrated wisdom and wield
a host of artillery may be pierced to> death with the omnipotence of truth. Accustom yourself
a No. 9 needle ; a mote fanned into' the gun- to overcome and conquer difficulties. The left
ner's eye is as bad as a spike in his rifle ; the hand, for want of practice, is insignificant and
dangerous bar in the harbor's mouth is only not adapted to general business, and yet be-
grains of sand ; the shoal that hath wrecked a cause of practice it holds the bridle better than
navy is but the work of a colony of worms ; a the right. An adage attributed to St. Francis
despicable bug may madden the mighty ele- of Assisi, which was early adopted and cher-
phant ; the kick of a cow toppled Chicago to ished through life by the great Italian re-
primeval chaos ; a modicum of dust falsifies former, Savonarola, deserves to be inscribed

the balance of the scales. To the untidy use on the memory of every student : "A man
of blunt pipeclay may often be traced the ruin knows as much as he works." It is needless
of balance and the total destruction of real for us to say how widely this truth is ignored.
sartorial art outlines. It is by the scrupulous Many seem to forg-et that knowledge, like all
scrutiny of trifles that we are enabled to pro- other possessions that are worth having, costs
duce a perfect whole or elude the deepest a great deal. It is a huge mistake yes, one
wretchedness of a cutter's life. To the impul- of the greatest errors to imagine that it will
sive student we say, never be in uneasy haste fall into our lap, while we in idleness sit, cross-
to rush off for the purpose of trying to draft legged, under the tree of knowledge. "If a
something else, but stick !
in heaven's name man will not work, neither shall he eat," is
stick to what you are at until you master it a maxim as true in the world of mind as in
so that you can see and feel the unbroken the world of matter. In both departments
curvilineal sartorial art beauty ooze out from indolence will clothe a man in rags and dis-
the razor-like edge of your pipeclay. Eschew grace. Sir William Hamilton says, "All com-
that innate weakness so common to a class of mencement is difficult, and this is more espe-
daily true of intellectual effort; but if we are width of fore part, allowing for any degree
vigorous enough to- pursue our course in spite of fullness that may be desired over the hips.
of obstacles, every step as we advance will be Form front skirt to* run in line with breast,
found easier, and kindred ideas flow with cutting away or leaving full at front according
greater freedom and abundance. Thomas to the dictates of fashion, age, class or style
Carlyle declared that genius is "A transcend- of wearer, taste of cutter or advice of cus-
ent capacity for taking trouble." The tailor, in tomer, whose caprice should always receive
pursuit of a knowledge of sartorial art science, the cutter's most respectful consideration.
must labor with the ardent devotion of a love Never permit a contemptuous sneer to curve
that will never desist from its pursuit until the cutter's lip because of customer's whims.
it has gained the object of its desire. "Jacob A habit of sneering marks the shallow mind
served seven years for Rachael, and they of ignorance, the egotist, the fool and the
seemed unto him but a few days, for the love knave, or, perhaps, the whole combination.
he had for her." The great Blaise Pascal
declared, "The sciences have two extremities,
which touch each other. The first is that pure
TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE.
ignorance in which all men are born; the
other extremity is that which is reached by Square construction lines O., A., B., plate
those great souls who have traversed the A., diagram C. ; from O. to C. 4 ; from
whole extent of knowledge, and return to the O. to E. on oblique line D. 9; from
same sense of ignorance from which they set E. draw square line to G. from center seam
out. But this is that learned ignorance which of back through O. to H. 19!. Continue
knows itself." We have here the truth which to B. full length of sleeve 31^, adding one
corresponds with the statement of St. Paul inch for seams 32^. Square across from B.
"If a man thinketh that he knoweth anything, to G. Mark up from G. to K. i|-; from K. to
he knoweth not yet as he ought to know." L. 6^. Form forearm from E. through M.
to K., hollowing from plumb line at M. f, or
according to degree of closeness desired.
SKIRTS; HOW TO DRAFT. Form back-arm from O. through H. to L.,

curving out from plumb line at H. f, or ac-
Square construction lines O., C. and E cording to requirements of taste or fashion,
diagram C, plate B. from O. to A. f con-
; , some requiring more and others less elbow
tinue to B. 9^; from B. up to* D. if; from C. width, from O. to A. 5J. Rising J above
up to P. |; from O. to R. 9; from A. to E. square line form sleeve top, from O. through
one inch more than from D. to E. on diagram A. to E. To form underside sleeve, mark in
A., this extra length being required for waist from O. to P. f, and curve from P. to E.
seam and shrinking in of back skirt, which through S., sinking not more than i below
should be coaxingly worked back with the horizontal line at S. From P. to where line
iron to form receptacle for rounding up of S. crosses horizontal line at C. do not hollow,
hips. Form top edge of skirt from P. through but rather give an upward bevel, so that when
D. to A., and back skirt from A. through R. the upper and under back-arm are laid down
to E., adding on i to i-| for back skirt pleat. flat, edge to edge, the top edge of sleeve will
Adjust distance from A. to P. to match waist form an unswerving curvilineal sweep, and
thus form a sleeve top that will hang even the sole reason that, to the learned doctor, the
from the scye. All the way around, in form- solving of the whole problem was but a simple
ing back-arm seam of underside sleeve, bevel anatomical, trigonometric, mathematical de-
in a trifle from P. to P., otherwise you may duction of analytical geometric balance, the'
produce a slight humpyness on back seam ever unfailing accurate reproduction of which
that may mar the appearance of a marvelously he reduced to a simple practical mechanical
beautiful hanging sleeve. When sleeves are method of procedure ; and yet we question if
not cut half-and-half, the inch, or at most inch there be any other subject connected with coat-
.and quarter, cut off under side, as per dotted cutting that has given the average cutter so
line, has its equal left on at fore-arm of upper much worry or been conducive of so much
side. All the sleeve points are, of course, lo- literary effort, acrimonious controversy, loud-
cated by using the unit graduated tape, except mouthed bacchanalian babbling and table-
the sleeve length, which is always located by thumping disputations. The quantities given
the common inch tape. Many cutters, hoping in diagram C, plate A, produce a perfect
to secure a clean-fitting undersleeve, drop into hanging sleeve for any of the forms of coats
the fatal error of hollowing top edge of under- represented in our book. The fore-arm pitch
side too much, causing the sleeve to slide up in all forms of coats is placed above bottom
the arm when the wearer uses a knife and of scye, level with back scye sleeve pitch at
fork, salutes a friend, drives a horse, uses a 4f above scye level depth. The top fore-arm
rifle, casts a fishing line, etc., etc. A preacher, point and top of back arm being the two car-
a tragedian, a platform orator, a coachman, dinal points of sleeve hanging, it naturally fol-
and more especially a soldier, should always lows that the height of sleeve rise O. C. should
have the top edge of underside sleeves as lit- harmonize with the height of back scye sleeve
tle hollowed as possible, more especially where pitch level and depth of front scye pitch level,
deep, easy arm holes are inperative. A safe and therefore, as we increase the distance O. C.
rule to apply for the production of a medium- we cause the sleeve to hang more forward
sized sleeve is to make elbow width | of a unit and in conformity with the requirements of
less than distance of angle from O to E. The the flat-chested, stooping figure, and by reduc-
sleeve hand width of very large sizes, as a ing the distance O. C. we cause the sleeve to
rule, than 6J units, because
should be cut less swing more backward, and thereby bring the
the hands but seldom increase in proportion hang of sleeve on a plumb line with the arms
with the breast measure. By marking sleeve of the erect or extra-erect figure. The lack
hand width 6-^ with graduated tape, and also of space prevents us from here entering more
6J with common inch measure, and then split- fully into the varied details of procedure
ting the difference, we secure a well-propor- in producing sleeves for extremely high or
tioned sleeve hand width for sizes over forty very low back-arm pitch, or excessively broad
breast measure. or abnormally narrow shoulders, and for that
reason we will content ourselves by briefly
explaining how to test the accuracy of adjust-

SLEEVEOLOGY. ment of size and form of sleeve top, and a
To the cutter who understands Dr. Wam- perfect hanging balance for normal con-
pen's science, the cutting of perfect balanced ditions, meeting all the requirements of pre-
sleeves presents but few, if any, difficulties for vailing fashion in relation to size and the
amount of fullness required. We may here that if the fullness around sleeve top be not
remark, however, that a perfect fore-arm and evenly distributed in the right quantity, at the
back-arm balance may be distressingly im- proper place, the most perfect balanced sleeve
paired by giving too- much or too little round ever produced will be thrown out of kelter.
on top edge of sleeve, the over-scanty form We have seen good hanging sleeves that
causing the sleeve to hang' draggingly from would not come up to the standard of our
around the shoulder top, while the too round test, but the sleeve is an ever reliable and per-
form will cause the sleeve to hang entirely fectly adjusted one when it does agree in
from the back and fore-arm points, exhibit- every particular with the above test, and the
ing a horrid superfluity of goods, forming a Americanized Wampen sleeve is ever equal
multitude of crinkles, bulges or lappings, in to' the ordeal.
degree according with the amount of superflu-
ous goods ;
preventing the sleeve from draping SO DELIGHTED WITH WAMPEN'S
with even, easy gracefulness from scye seam, SLEEVES.
all the way around the back, top and front Regimental master tailors, as a class, have
shoulder. long endured a great deal of mental agony
because of their lack of knowledge of a good,
self-adjustable system for the production of
THE BEST TEST OF ACCURATE
a good-fitting, "all-purpose" regimental sleeve.
SLEEVE ADJUSTMENT.
So delighted was Sergeant Henry Nesbit,
To know that you have your sleeve pattern
accurately adjusted to meet all the require-
ments of and form of shoulders,
size of scye
place shoulder seam of back and breast in a

closing position (see diagram E, plate B),
and draw line D from back scye sleeve pitch.
Through front-arm sleeve pitch place top of
back arm seam, at back pitch, with top of
fore-arm seam touching line D at E, allowing
sleeve top to pass over on shoulder as at H.
If sleeve laps over more than one and a half
inch the sleeve top rounding is too high, or
the shoulder too broad, to allow the sleeve to
hang evenly from the seam all the way around.
SERGEANT HENRY NESBIT.
And if the lap-over be less than one and a half
inch the top of sleeve is too flat, or the scye master tailor British Royal Artillery, with the
edge of shoulder of coat is too much hollowed, general results obtained from our course of
to be productive of satisfactory results in instruction that he sent to us Master Tailor
fit, hang of sleeve, and to be in per-
style or Bloomfield, of the Sixtieth Royal Rifle Bri-
fect harmony with width of scye the gade King Edward VII. father's regiment
fore-arm seam should pass front-arm pitch as he said, to learn the Wampen system., "and
to E at one and a half inch from have forever done with this military armhole
front ,edge of scye. And let us just add and sleeve trouble."
DEGREES OF DISPROPORTION. apply the half at waist suppression point,

which means that we mark in only one and
In the Dr. Wampen science there are two three-quarters, in place of two and a quarter,
degrees of disproportion of size of chest and
as in the Wampen model, 36 B, 30 W, carry-
waist, giving a well-defined scientific adjust-
ing the remaining one and a half inch to the
ment of balance for the uniform and graceful front of waist, which simply means, having
distribution of drapery, in perfect accordance located your suppression of waist point, you
with abnormal increment of the adominal reform your side seam line, place your back in
gion, leaving nothing to guess work, as in position, and measure from center of back (al-
divisional systems. The first degree consists lowing from one-half to three-quarters for fish
of four inches. The limit, therefore, of the taken out at side-body) at natural waist line
first degree is thirty-four waist, that is, two to front 17, with inches added for making
2-J-
inches, or units, less than the circumference
up if for a one-button frock, and 3-i in case of
of chest, but there is no measure limit to the
a three-button frock. The total waist meas-
second degree of disproportion in size of waist.
ure with additions for making up, like the
The expression, "A fourth of the first and a
shoulder level, depth of scye level, and natural
half of the second degree," should be indelibly
waist length, are all located by the use of the
stamped on the memory and thereby avoid
common inch tape; all the other points are
the errors of confusion. In order to secure
marked by using the Happle-Hutcheson copy-
an easy, graceful distribution of goods, in per-
righted graduated unit scale corresponding
fect conformity with the natural increment
with the circumference of the chest. The lo-
in size of waist, the first degree is disposed
cating of the shoulder level, depth of scye
of in the following manner : In drafting pat-
level, and natural waist level by the common
tern for the Wampen model figure 36 breast,
inch measure are but a few of the important
30 waist, the suppression at waist point is 2^.
points that are not understood by those pri-
But let us suppose the waist measure to have
mary grade school graduates who teach the
increased in size to 32, or 16 half waist, as in
total-height theory as a principle of practical
our normal, not the Wampen model, draft.
A
artistic cutting. 42 breast, 35 waist, a 48
In this case we have two- inches of dispropor- breast and 40 waist, or a 54 breast, 45 waist,
tion in the first degree to dispose of, which represents exactly the same model form as a
means one inch in the half waist. A fourth
36 breast and 30 waist. All the points of the
of the first degree in this case would be one- various sizes are located in exactly the same
quarter of an inch. This quarter of an inch way as described in locating the points for the
is to be added on at natural waist suppression 36 size, the cutter in making the draft using
point, making it two- inches, in place of two the Happle-Hutcheson graduated unit scale
and a quarter, as in the Wampen model, the corresponding with the size of pattern re-
remaining three-fourths to be added on at quired, for all the points except the levels as
front waist ;
proceeding in like manner until already explained and the final finding of the
the increase of waist reaches the full limit of width of waist, which, as already stated, must
the first degree, thirty-four, or seventeen half in all cases, except in grading sets of block
waist, which gives us two inches to dispose of. patterns, be marked by the common inch
A fourth of two inches being a half inch, we measure.
THE SECOND DEGREE OF DISPRO- with his degree work by practicing on paper
PORTION. until proficiency in all details removes every
trace of amateurishness. When the corpu-
Now that we have explained how to handle
lency is very much to the front, leaving the
the increase in size of waist up to< the full when
back waist hollow ; or the seat is flat,
limit of the first degree, and presuming that
or the hips small, we do not work the second
the student has attended to our advice and
degree, but apply all the increase of size in
now clearly understands the expression "A front of breast construction line, because if
fourth of the firstand a half of the second de- we did, the coat would hang away from back
gree," we shall proceed to expound how to waist. If the second degree be applied in-
work in the second degree. Let us suppose
discriminately to all forms whose waist meas-
we have a coat to cut for a gentleman, 36 urement runs up into the second degree, we
breast and 36 waist, or eighteen half B and
would have some scatter-brain cutter making
W, which means that the gentleman has in-
a manifestation of his poverty of technical
creased in size of waist until he is two inches knowledge, while he, with inflated chest,
in on the second degree of waist disproportion, poised on a well-advanced left foot, and in the
or one inch on the half waist, eighteen. As ill-assumed, deep, sonorous tones of concen-
soon as the waist increases in size beyond
trated wisdom, he will confidently explain to
seventeen units of the breast measure, we us that we had got the strap or front shoulder
proceed to distribute the goods around the balance too long, and would have us to start
waist by working in the second degree. In
right in and destroy a beautiful shoulder for
place of marking in at point H on the waist
the purpose of correcting an error of remiss-
line I, we make it half of the second degree
ness resulting in a misplacement of goods at
less than f which in this case half an inch,
, is
waist. We say most emphatically, never
and means that, in place of marking in f , we change a shoulder for the purpose of improv-
mark in ^ only; and from that point we ing fit at waist or seat until after you find that
square out to point J 8f. We then place scye
there is no other resort, and then let the
depth line of back on top of line J. G. and
switching-around process, which is so> often
square in at natural waist suppression line
fatal to style and balance, be conducted with
1 1, and form side body as in normal draft,
the most scrupulous care of a skillful me-
then place back in a closed position at side chanic. Scatter-brain shoulder swingers are
seam. This done, then measure from center le'ion in America.
seam of back, using the common inch measure,
and mark the net half waist 18 remember-
ing to allow for fish taken out at side body
seam in front of the front waist point 18.
AMOUNT OF ALLOWANCE FOR
Add on 2.\ inches for making up, if for a
MAKING UP.
one-button frock or double-breasted Prince
.When cutting three-button frocks, add on
Albert, but if for a three-button frock add 3^-
at front waist 3-J- inches not units and cut
more than the net waist measure, and cut away from lower button according to fashion
away from lower button according to taste or or taste ; and for one-button coats, 2\ inches
fashion. We cannot- too> forcefully insist on more than half waist measure ; for single-
the student thoroughly familiarizing himself breasted Prince Alberts add on 3-I more than
half of waist measure; for double-breasted draft being in the front breast allowance
Prince Alberts add on at waist from 2.\ to for making up, and the distance of angle
2\. These quantities, while correct for me- point that regulates the crookedness of shoul-
dium-weight goods, would be too snug in the der, making it 8 in place of 7f as in frock
case of very heavy winter weights. For the coat draft. This change is made for the pur-
dress coat, which is not supposed to button, pose of producing a more crooked shoulder
many cut them to the net waist measure, which and in this way cleaning up the front scye,
in our opinion produces a rather gimpy form giving the coat a closer hold around the fore-
we therefore recommend adding on one inch. arm region and producing a seeming in-
The livery dress coat, when intended to be creased chest rotundity. In some cases this
worn buttoned, requires 2\ to 2-J, as in the point may safely be changed to 8^, or more
double-breasted Prince Alberts. Sacque coats even, but caution and gumption must be ex-
that are intended to button all the way clown ercised in making the deviation, because a
to or below the waist should always have 4 to trifle too much of a shoulder crook will pro-
4I- added on at front waist more, than net duce an unsightly crease from gorge shoulder
measure giving room for pockets, handker- point to lower front scye. To locate front
chief, gloves, etc, etc. Always remember that edge, add on if at top of front breast on line
the size of waist and seat, with additions for with point 3:} front shoulder level and from
making up, like the depth of shoulder level, the 1 J up at front of scye mark out and locate
depth of scye level, natural waist level, seat front edge line at 7 J units, and from center
level, full length of coat, and sleeve length, are seam of back at natural waist level mark for-
always found by the use of the common inch ward with common inch measure making al-
tape, except when grading block patterns ; lowance for fish taken out at side body the
then all the points are found by the unit grad- net half waist measure, and add on one inch,
uated tapes, except the Itotal lengths of coat, less or more, according to taste, special re-
sleeve, or vest. Our reason for repeating this quirements of customer, or degree of fullness
information is because so many are slow to or scantiness desired. Personally we favor
understand just where, when, and why the one inch as per broken line, which in the
unit scale is dropped and the common inch hands of a good jour., who is an expert ma-
tape taken up in using- Dr. Wampen's science. nipulator, gives a neither too full, flabby, nor
that low-class trade amateurish scantiness that
was wont to afflict us with New York sarto-
rial art ennui. In New York City we have
actually seen distinguished American gentle-
DRESS COAT DRAFT.
men, of national fame, with the lapels of their
For dress coat draft see Plate C. Having dress coat cut off on a line with the waist
led our student by the use of an alphabetic seam, the skirt strap coming flush with front
guide through the routine work of locating edge of lapel. The sleeves of a dress coat
skeleton points of Wampen's constructive sar- should be a trifle narrower and shorter than
torial art draft, we, in presenting diagram of the frock. The back pitch should also be a
dress coat, deem it only necessary to mark the trifle narrower than that of the frock, and the
points of draft in plain figures, the only hip buttons not quite so far apart as in the
changes in the quantities as given in frock semi-dress form of coats.
PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRJCAL SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE. 59
DRESS COAT LAPELS. struction line as shown on Plate B, Diag. D,

this difference being made necessary for the
The two forms of dress coat lapels as given
purpose of "cleaning up" slack along front
on Plate C are a fair representation of the
edge of skirt, a defect commonly seen in the
average outlines of the two most popular of
low-priced products of the inartistic tailor.
present-day forms, the scimitar form being the
Length and breadth of strap and skirt are
greater favorite with the youthful dandy and
alike mutable, being ever subservient to fash-
semi-swell class of that order that are not
ion's vagaries or whimsicality of customer,
socially recognized as of the regular "diner-
his form, age, and general personality, all of
out" order. This form of lapel is calculated
which combine to give the cutter a most ex-
to give more white bosom spread. Its bold
cellent field for the exercise of his sartorial
outline sweep carries with such a strong
it
gumption. We here make no pretense of lay-
suggestion of swell, rakish dash we have posi-
ing down a form of outline that will be alike
tively refused to recommend it te the clergy,
pleasing to the eye of every cutter or conform-
while we declare it perfectly homogeneous
able to the requirement of all customers, but
with the make-up of the Thespian, and espe-
we do declare that a precise reproduction of
cially well adapted to that of a swell ring-
our diagram will produce excellent results for
master of the modern circus, or any bunch of
present-day normal conditions. Before seam-
struggling old Beau Brummell sports that are
ing on skirt, we advise the pressing in of re-
striving to look young; but a full-fledged
quired amount of fullness at waist, back and
scimitar lapel would be fatal to the calm dig-
front skirt, providing a concave receptacle for
nity of President Roosevelt, a Senator Depew, hip and thigh convexity ; and just here is one
a Lyman Gage, or a Marshall Field, the
of the many points in coat making where the
Roman sword form, with its varied modifica-
cutter's combined practical and theoretical
tions, being ever the most appropriate to the
knowledge of sartorial art comes up to prove
sartorial make-up ofgentleman. The
a" true
or disprove his assthetical ability, enabling him
details of either of the two forms, however,
to properly instruct the tailor how neither to
should ever assume a becoming individualism,
over nor underdo skirt form manipulation.
varying in form, width, and general outline For flat-hipped men we recommend the intel-
according to age, physical form, class, or
ligently careful placement of a little wadding
style of wearer, weight and make of goods, to help in producing that ever-pleasing hip
etc. Hollow scimitar sewing on edge, from virility so beauteously outlined throug-hout the
5 to i-J, Diag. D, Plate C, represents in-
ischidic region of the good-conditioned, well-
curve. For
groomed, thoroughbred fox terrier.
many years we kept a good one for the special

purpose of using her as a model when advis-
DRESS COAT SKIRT.
ing our coat makers. When a "greenhorn"
Although the contour of the dress coat skirt would bring in a coat with that most detest-
is altogether different to that of the frock able, flimsy, lifeless skirt form of amateurish
skirt, the skeleton points of draft for both dress coat art, we had our terrier jump up on
forms are exactly the same, with one excep- the cutting table, while we affectionately de-
tion, viz., the placement of front waist line, scribed her beautiful hip contour, and after a
which drops to a level with horizontal con- good jour, followed our instructions in draw-
ing his open palm over the little animal's hip of body-fitting coats, in the same ratio as the
he never failed "to catch on" to our ideal of back pitch. The lapels are also cut wider,
the beautiful in skirt hip form. When the with a little more rounding to the outer edge,
skirt strap corner and bottom of skirt are cut allowing the top buttons to be placed further
square, we always use the Roman sword form from the edge, giving an appearance of in-
of lapel, with its modifications of widths and creased width to the breast and a more hand-
beveling" suited, to the varied personal require- some waist form. The American form of
ments of customer ; but when we cut the shawl placing the waist buttons of double-breasted
front form or use the scimitar form of lapel coats and vests the same distance in from edge
in its most modified sweep of outline even, we at chest and waist gives the figure a very
always slightly round the skirt end of strap, tame, straight-up-and-down, square-line, barn-
and corner of bottom skirt is also' slightly door, expressionless, flat-breast form of make-
rounded off ; but a very pronounced rounding up, while the more tapered style of button
off gives the wearer a rather forceful tinge of line gives enhancement of figure form, but
the liveryman, the waiter, the song-and-dance this tapering, when overdone, is as hideously
man, or provincial tailor. clownish in appearance as the wide setting at
waist appears to those who have been accus-
tomed to show in their work some respectful
consideration for anatomical pulchritude of
THE DOUBLE-BREASTED FULL
outline.
DRESS PRINCE ALBERT.
All the skeleton points of this form of coat
PRINCE ALBERT SKIRTS.
are produced precisely the same as the even-
ing dress coat, with one exception, viz., the On Plates D and E we give two styles of
additional increase at front waist for making Prince Albert skirts. Plate D shows the form
up which should be two and a half inches of skirt most appropriate to the clergy and
more than half waist measure, as per solid their meek followers ; also all who, in the
front edge line, Plate C, so as to allow the sight of their Maker and their fellow-man,
lapel seams to lie exactly on top of each other walk with the measured step of orthodox hu-
without any suspicion of corset tightness. mility; or those who enjoy all their pleasures
with the grave-faced solemnity of a recluse
sage ; or that class of men who carry around
THE PRINCE ALBERT PROPER. their ever-soiur, green-crabapple-eating facial
expression which so man) r

cutters assume
This form of coat is cut very easy. A half when telling the jour, that, "had he put on
inch extra width to front breast may safely his ding-dong son-of-a- female-dog collar short
be added all the way down except at top of enough the blasted coat would not hang away
lapel seam, one-fourth of an inch extra being- off so far at waist suppression point." But
enough at this point; the shoulders are made for the handsome, gentleman-like man, or him
one-fourth of an inch broader; the back with the dash of militarism, commercialism,
pitches from one-fourth to half an inch wider, or cheerful-faced good-fellowism, the slightly
according to class of goods, and the hip but- bell-formed skirt makes the most becomingly
ton space increased or decreased, in all classes swell coat. The 5 feet 4 and less in height
man, like the very corpulent gentleman, etc. When drafting back locate these points
should never be encouraged to wear a Prince with the common inch measure, always mak-
Albert, except perhaps when required to con- ing the shoulder level point one inch less than
form with the conventionalism of morning the shoulder level measure whatever that may
ceremonial functions; and if a man who, be. When this measure is only if, mark down
when having his hair cut, allows his barber to locate shoulder level point on draft of back
to shave the back of his neck, desires to place three-fourths of an inch only ; and continue
his order for a stylish bell-skirt Prince Albert, to depth of scye level 8, 9, 10, 1 1 or whatever
an evening dress coat, or a Tuxedo, play any it may be, remembering to make the 3J unit
diplomatic trick you can to steer him away distance on breast construction line one inch
from the idea. Tell him that the most becom- less (2^) to correspond with shoulder level
ing costume he can put on is the straight- as marked on back or if the shoulder level
;
front three-seamer with peaked lapels, and be more than i\, say 3 J, increase the front
22i-inch bell-bottom "pants." Should he per- level 35 to \\ so as to balance with the in-
sist in having one or all of the dress forms, creased depth of shoulder level point on draft
him you cannot get them made in time.

tell
of back pattern ; but when the head leans for-
Ask him for a bit o' chewing the man with ;

ward, giving us a stooping form to provide
the shaved back neck is always, or nearly for, the front shoulder level must not be in-
always is, a confirmed tobacco eater, and takes creased so much, because it is only the truly
kindly to the man who asks him for a chew. erect figure that can carry the full length at
While he is handing you his "plug," assume gorge point. After draft is formed, place back
the "con man's" low tone of speech and tell in position, and make adjustment of strap
him that there is a h1 of a good tailor up length at gorge point to correspond with meas-
Milwaukee avenue, or out in the stock-yards ure, allowing ij for making up, but do- not
district, that can make him the real thing, change length of shoulder at scye point. The
with big, padded shoulders. No man with a breast bone being a flat, inflexible surface
shaved back neck should be allowed to indulge accident or freaks of nature excepted the 6^
in the luxury of such a heinous combination unit distance on front construction line is ever
or profanation of full dress. No sartorial unchangeable, and therefore the erect and
dress coat artist was ever known to willingly stooping changes are made in the depth of scye
sanction such an outrage on good taste. level section of back draft to correspond with
the increase or decrease as found in the stoop-
ing, round-backed or erect figure. We advise
the making of a number of drafts of long and
HOW TO HANDLE SHOULDER AND
short shoulder levels, depth of scye levels, and
SCYE DEPTH LEVELS.
their various combinations, sloping shoulders
Measure from nape of neck; commencing and round back, sloping shoulders and extra
at point one inch lower than where crease edge erect, square shoulders and round back, square
of collar is desired to reach to chalk mark on

;
shoulders and extra erect, and in this way be-
center of back as made when pointing off come familiar with the work and appearance
depth of shoulder level ; at, say, 2\, or what- of all the varied figure forms. It is bad policy
ever it may be, continuing to depth of scye to cut a round back seam to provide for a
level 9, and on to natural waist length, etc., stooping or round-backed figure; and more
especially if the coat is being made of stripe We cannot too forcefully impress upon the
or check goods ; length on a straight line cor- mind of the student the absolute necessity of
responding with the correct measure is what is taking measures correctly, and of his being
required for round-shouldered men, and nip- especially careful to secure the net shoulder
ping in at scye points. When a back seam is and depth of scye levels, so that he may more
cut round the figure is made to appear more full)' appreciate the importance of accuracy
humpy, more especially if the goods be in in taking the precise shoulder level and scye
stripes or checks, while a straight back seam depth level. We advise him to take two
always tends to reduce the humpy appearance. strips of paper ; on one mark off a if and a
It is a common practice with teachers of divi- y\ inch space, to represent the length of shoul-
sional minus and plus shuttle-cock hit and der and scye depth levels, and on the other
miss methods to* advise their pupils to allow strip mark off ij and 7f. Then place the
less spring on skirts for stooping and round- one on top of the other, bringing the mark-
backed figures than for normal or erect, an ab- ings together, and note the effect of these
surdity that is the sequence of shallow- measures being but an eighth of an inch too
minded, colossal technical ignorance of the short or too long. Just think of the worry
common law of cause and effect. The man and expense attending the removal of a tan-
with 37 breast and 38 seat requires the same talizing little blister-like rising that appears
amount of skirt spring, no' matter what form on back just below the collar seam or between
his shoulders may be ; for example, if the the shoulder blades, or the strained-like short-
round-shouldered man, 37 B. 38 S., puts on ness of back, balance that draws the crease
this size of coat as cut for the normal man, edge of collar out from neck or lifts the hip
the hip buttons will dangle off at waist and buttons away from the figure. There is no
the skirts will overlap-each other as if the coat other point in coat cutting where the differ-
was cut with too much 1
skirt spring. Take ence of an eig'hth or a sixteenth of an inch in

your knife and cut backs across from back the adjustment of balance is of such vital
scye to back scye, and the hip buttons will im- import ; neither is there in existence any
mediately drop to' their proper position, while other system of coat cutting that conserves
the skirts will swing in to their right place, the balance with such perfect scientific accu-
fitting the stooping or round-backed man just racy as does Dr. Wampen's. His provision
as they fit the normal man of same size, while for the perfect adjustment of acromial and
the open space as shown in split back will
axilla depth levels, combined with his degrees
of chest and waist disproportion, gives us a

show exactly how much too short the back
sartorial art balance and counter balance as
section of scye level depth was for the round-
perfect in principle as the apothecary's weigh
backed man ; while on the extra erect figure
scales. The correctness of our assertion has
the coat will seem to have too- little spring,
been called in question only by cutters who
but it has not. In this case pin up a fold of
never saw an exemplification of the science,
the surplus goods, shortening the back scye
or by men whose jealousy, prejudice, or pas-
depth level until the hip buttons cease to' sit
sion has hoodwinked their sense of the truth,
too close to the figure, and then the skirt will causing them to^ make a sorry exhibition of
assume its proper position and fit the same as their lack of intelligent manhood by resorting"
on the normal build of shoulders. to the game of blind bluff; but these individ-
uals should not forget the fact that doubts is 2f inches more than the normal figure, and
are the traitors that works the skeptic's ruin. yet the scapular region is truly normal, being
7i units of his 37 chest measure. Although

the gentleman's cone-shaped shoulders are a
F. SWIGERT TELLS HOW HE MADE fright to behold, I weakened on Wampen

J.
HIS MENTAL WAMPEN VOW. when I looked at the pattern as I passed it on

to my cloth cutter, who just glared at it, and
One evening as our automobile swung out on taking another look at it I decided to
from Drexel boulevard into Midway Plais- reduce height of neck, and did so to the extent
sance in recognition of a familiar "Hello" of three-quarters of an inch, and even then it
we set our brake and had a chat with out dilet- was with feelings akin to fear and trembling
tantish friend Mr. J. F. Swigert, cutter for the that I approached my try-on, which landed
exactly three-quarters of an inch too. low on
neck a result that served to thoroughly sat-
isfy me of the unreliability of judgment as

compared with the scientific correctness of Dr.
Wampen's high-and-low-shoulder level theory,
causing me to there and then make a mental
vow to always stick close to> my measures and
your beloved Wampen's teachings of the prin-
ciple of producing a surface to cover a surface.
The gentleman for whom I cut the coat has
since told me that, although more than fifty
3-ears old, he never before had a coat made

for him that would not slide off his shoulders
when left unbuttoned."
MR. J. F. SWIGERT. HOW CHARLES STACK SLIPPED A

J.
long-established high-class trade of Henry

WAMPEN COG.
Turner. Mr. Swigert is a man whom the One morning on calling in at Harry Ber-
Lord in His wisdom has endowed with an ger's, a high-class merchant, who is reputed
ample measure of well-balanced gray matter, to be Chicago's most superpunctilious em-
a good education, and a pleasingly happy ployer, a man who seems to pride himself in
fluency of speech. "We have just been talk- tolerating none around his elaborately uphol-
ing about you and Wampen," said he, "ex- stered and gorgeously mirrored sartorial art
plaining to my friend here my first really se- parlors exceptthe highest-class technical talent
vere test of the Wampen science as applied to the market can furnish on going in we were
extremely long-necked, oblique-shouldered just in time to correct an error of Cutter
customers, my client's acromial level being 5-J- Stack's, who had discarded the use of what
inches below the base of the fourth cervical is today the most deservedly popular Ameri-
vertebra, with an axilla depth level of nf, can system extant, and in his overhaste to
giving me a shoulder level to provide for that start in using the Wampen system he had un-
wittingly slipped a cog, and accosted us, say- corrupt and vitiated fancy. If a cutter de-
ing: "You claim that Wampen's system will sires not to be thought a fool in another's
always produce an accurate surface to cover conceit, let him be not wise in his own, for
a prescribed surface, and here I am with a own wisdom
he that puts his sole trust in his
pattern cut for a long-necked, callow youth, proclaims his own folly. He is, we think,
and the shoulder strap comes out three-quar- truly wise, and shall appear so, when he has
ters too short for the measure." On taking a folly enough to be thought not worldly wise,
cursory glance at the pattern it seemed all and has just wisdom enough to understand-
right, but as the talented Mr. Stack informed ingly see his own folly.
us it was too short in the strap, we tested it,

That man must daily wiser grow, whose search is
and with a semi-sardonic smile we replied bent himself to know ;
Impartially he weighs his scope, and on firm reason
"Yes, Brother Stack, Dr. Wampen is O. K.
founds his hope.
every time, and don't you forget it. Like oil He tries his strength before the race, and never seeks
his own
disgrace.
in troubled waters, he always comes to the He knows the compass, sail and oar, or never
top. When drafting the back you gave the launches from the shore.
Before he builds, computes the cost, and in no proud
proper amount, 2-J, for a 3-J shoulder level pursuit is lost.
He learns the bounds of human sense, and safely
measure ; but in drafting the breast you for- waiks within the fence.
got to add the three-quarters for extra length Thus, conscious of his own defect, are pride and self-
importance checked.
of neck. You made the distance the normal
3^ in place of 4; "One
hence the shortage."
on me," said Mr. Stack, and, suiting the ac-
tion to the word, he handed us a clear Havana.
THE SACQUE COAT.
We mention these two cases for the espe-
Now that the student of the Americanized
cial purpose of showing" to beginners how Wampen system is presumably proficient
easy it is for thoroughly experienced, high-

in the art of drafting all the varied forms of
class cutters, even, to make an error of judg-
body-fitting coats, he will experience no diffi-
ment or slip a cog. We are of the belief that
culty in proceeding to draft sacques, as the
the cutter who never makes a slip is entirely
skeleton points are practically the same as in
too good for this world, and in our opinion
the frocks, the exception being in a few minor
he is in no way whatever recommendable for
details.
the next, and therefore, like the dipsomania's
monkey, he is in a most distressing predica-
ment. We have often met self-perfect cutters,
TO DRAFT THE BACK.
whose strong conceit had caused them to let Form construction lines O. E. and O. F.,
slip their mental rudder, which their reason Plate F. Mark down from O to A if,
should have held for the purpose of steering from A to B 7], from B to C j\, from C to
their mind through a correct course. We D 7{, and from O to E total length 29, with
have ever found the conceited, self-perfect one-quarter of an inch added to full length
cutter to be but a partially informed individ- for seam at top of back. Across from O to F
ual, not knowing enough to know that he 3, from A across. to G 7f, from B across to H
doesn't know it all, a person who too fre- 7J, and continue to I 9. From C to' J -J, and
quently allows himself to be carried away by continue on to K 7, or whatever width of back
the strong: current or the fierce erale of a desired. Square up from IT to N 4^, and on
to P 53, from F up to S f. Form top of comes exactly in line with the top edge level
back from S to O. Form back seam from O of breast bone. With a knowledge of this
through J to E. Shoulder seam from S fact, the cutter never has any trouble in lo-
through P at 3-16 out from vertical line H. N. cating the gorge line depth required for cler-
Form back scye through M to I. Square ical, regimental, or any other form of button-
down by C. K. and L to M. Square across up coat. The 2 therefore -being a mere sub-
from E to M at bottom, and from W at top. sidiary quantity, we measure through or past
Place upper part of side seam at one inch it O
from B 3I-, from B to U 6J, from O
to
from H and I, curving gently from W to K. to D 2-\. From B square across to E 75, or
Side seam of back may be formed anywhere same as to G on back. From U square in to
between points N. W. I. and K. J. and lower M H 5|-, and continue to G 9. From H square
and E that fashion, form, desire, or taste may up to C From G square to K *j\. From
i-l-.
dictate, all of which changes may be made K square waist line S. Mark in from K to
without in any way disturbing the balance of I Square by I and G out to J 8f. Draw
|-.
coat. For example, a regimental patrol coat, angle line D. E. Place depth of scye line on
with its narrow backs curving from back scye back B. I. on top of line G. J. With back in
line, at 3 inches above depth of scye level, to this position locate top of side P. From P
a waist line width (in some regiments) of only to R \ inch. On a level with seat line D on
ii inches, with their graceful, dime-form fit- back, mark in front of construction line *\,
ting side bodies. Bevel off shoulder seam and from point marked thus, * measure back
slightly at point P. Draw angle or tag line to L half the seat measure, 18J, or whatever
G. S. and proceed to cut back pattern, leaving it may be. Making a pivot at line G. J. at
tag on shoulder as in the body-fitting coats. side seam point, swing back seam out to point
It is a good plan to reroeasure all the points L* and point off at M width of back. Form
after the draft is formed. Our reason for side seam from P through M, hollowing side
giving this advice must be obvious to the seam to the extent of \ at waist line level. A
reader, and should any of your drafts be not straight line drawn from P through is a M
exactly to your liking, do not " hem and haw" great help to new beginners when forming
over it, wondering if it is usable ; destroy it side seam, rounding out from P to straight
at once, and continue doing so until you do line, then curving in at waist to degree of
succeed in producing- one that is perfectly closeness desired, and out over hip at point
satisfactory in every detail, and then the next M. One-sixteenth added on beyond straight
will come easy.
line over the shoulder blade, as a rule, pro-
duces a cleaner back scye ; and in the name of
that powerful we beg of you not to dig
TO DRAFT THE FORE PART. all is
in to waist suppression point, but reach it with

Draw construction lines O. L. and O. D., an unbroken serpentine curve, producing the
Plate F, Diagram A. From O to gorge line 2, slightest suspicion of a hip, rounding out be-
or according to height of gorge line required to yond M to the extent of a sixteenth and in
suit long roll, short roll, or buttoning-up pur- heavy goods a quarter of an inch, this, as a
poses, fashion, or taste. The gorge line is rule, being ample to remove the dead flatness
ever variable 2f however, is in line with the
; , and produce that vigorous hip virility effect
prevailing mode. The shoulder level line B. E. that is always beautiful to look at. To locate
shoulder seam, place tag line G. S. even at broken curve line as shown in the clean clay
point G of tag, with point E on breast; then footprint of a thoroughbred race horse, sink-
3
form shoulder, beveling off as per scye point of ing below horizontal line not more than / 1G .
shoulder and hollowing slightly from gorge

point to point on shoulder seam as per dia-
gram. Adjust length of shoulder seam to
THE DOUBLE-BREASTED SACQUE.
conform with that of back. Form gorge To produce the D.-B. sacque, Plate G, lo-
through 2, making step point Y if from B. cate the skeleton points in exactly the same
Split goods at point where lapel breaks, but manner as in the S.-B. sacque, making the
cut nothing out, the seam being sufficient to back width at waist y\ to j\ in place of 7 as
clean up slack of gorge ; but if cutting for a in the S.-B. coats. This increment of width
cheap trade, where collars are slung on in is given for the purpose of producing back
haste by incompetent or careless machine op- outlines in more perfect unisonance with the
erators, who strain the gorge out of shape, it heavy D.-B. front form, which should be reg-
is make point Y shorter, and in
advisable to ulated to' some extent in accordance with the
this way we may to some extent counteract weight or class of goods, etc. It is also in
such untoward exigency. Place top point of line with good taste to add a trifle to the
side seam of back one-fourth below top of side width of the shoulders of D.-B. coats of any
seam of breast, and adjust length of side seam form whatever, and more especially that of
to match back. Then place point B of back, the overcoat order. To form front edge,
on point U of breast, and adjust front length mark from front of scye to lapel seam line
of fore part at L. Square across from side W. W. 7|. Mark location of lapel seam line
seam to a point ij below back length at L, W. W. at waist 2\ more than half waist meas-
and for large sizes check this adjustment by ure, with 1 That is for a 32
inch added.
making a pivot on shoulder seam one-half waist. Measure from back seam forward 16,
inch in from gorge and sweeping from bottom with 1 inch added, which would be 17, and at
of side seam to> front, and make front length a point 2% in front of the 17 mark point for
at point where sweep tine intersects construc- your lapel seam line, and from this point
tion line O. L. Across breast from C to C 8J.
square by waist line down to bottom length,
Place waist line of back close with side seam which is located by the same process as in
of breast, and with the common inch tape the S.-B. sacque. From shoulder level point
measure across from back seam to point V 3;} mark out i to locate top of lapel seam
one inch more than half the waist measure, line W. W. The width of lapel and front edge
and from point V add four inches. The waist form is largely a matter of individual taste.
width, with addition for making up, like the The cutter who is a slavish follower of
seat measure, is always adjusted by the use fashion-plate publishers' outlines declares
of the common inch measure. By waist line himself totally destitute of technical training
square down from point S, rounding off from and a lack of artistic sartorial art ability en-
lower button in accordance with style of front tirely disqualifying him as a competent cutter
desired. Finish formation of front edge for a high-class trade. On one occasion, when
through C and S, making lapel whatever form visiting a cutter's association assembly in one
or size fashion designates or taste dictates. of the largest cities in the United States, we
Form scye through C to P, forming an un- were surprised to hear one of the members of
L.ofC.
PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRICAL SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE 67
the association propose a still more universal waist width is 1 inch more than in the Ox-
adoption of "one form of outline by all the onian ; that is, from C at front scye to front
houses," and we were astounded to see this edge is 9J, and in front of waist point S add
absurd proposition so kindly received, not a on 5-^- inches with common inch measure, so
dissenting voice being raised while the subject that buttons may be placed 35 from front
was under solemn consideration and warmly edge, giving- ample room for a fairly free use
eulogized with grave-faced recommendation, of pockets. It is a common practice among
causing us to mentally soliloquize : "By what cutters, more especially that class who' toil in
strange law of mind is it that an idea long the lower strata of our craft, to make a differ-
trodden under the foot of intelligent progres- ence of half an inch less in width of breast
sion as a useless stone, suddenly sparkles out when cutting a sacque that is not to have a
in new light as a discovered precious dia- fish taken out under the arm a practice that
mond ?" has ever had our most emphatic condemna-
A good standard by which a handsome tion. It is an illogical idea ; when the sur-
front outline may be formed is obtained by plus goods is removed the coat ceases to> be a
adding 3^ at breast and 3 at waist. The lapel sacque a subject we shall revert to under the
width points are both marked by the Happle- heading' Trade Nomenclature.
Hutcheson graduated unit tape, and lapel
formed as per Diagram Plate G, varying, of
course, in width and form to accord with make THE DOUBLE-BREASTED CHESTER-
and weight of goods, button-up or long-roll FIELD.
requirements. The size and form we give is
The D.-B. Chesterfield is produced by using
admirably adapted for a five-button spacing,
the same quantities that are applied in locating
with collar adjusted to roll two or button up
the lapel seam line of the D.-B. sacque, this
four in the chill of early spring or late au-
line forming the center of breast line, to
tumn. This form of coat has long been a
which is added whatever width and outline
special favorite among the best class of dress-
form of may be deemed best adapt-
lapel that
ers, being admirably adapted for the special
ed to the class of goods, degree of bigness of
requirements of yachtmen and equestrians. A
coat, and personality of the wearer.
lengthy sacque, either single or double breast-
ed,has ever been an abhorrence in the eyes of
gentleman-like dressers, giving the figure a
always suggestive
AMERICAN HOTCH-POTCH OF
dowdy appearance, and is
TRADE NOMENCLATURE,
of seat-worn, patched trousers.
For reasons that must be obvious to the
reader, we, in compiling our book, have used

THE SINGLE-BREASTED CHESTER- America's ridiculously erroneous trade nom-
FIELD.
enclature in the designation of the various
The Chesterfield Plate H, like the D.-B. forms of coats. We make this explanation to
sacque, is produced with backs and shoulders save us from being laughed at, knowing as we
a trifle wider than the Oxonian sacque, and, do that our book will be read by many who
know coats by their proper names. Never-
asmay be seen by reference to Plate H, Dia-
front theless we feel to be our incumbent duty to
gram A, the front breast width and
it
make an effort to straighten out America's well-informed tailor knows, is also a top coat,
confusing mix-up of coat names. Throughout it being the favorite form of overcoat worn by
America the Oxonian sacque is known as a the handsome young Prince Albert who mar-
loose sacque, a half-fitting sacque, and the ried Queen Victoria of England. The New-
absurd, contradictory names body-fitting and market coat, which is a very handsome form
corset-fitting sacque. Can you imagine any- of one-button D.-B. cutaway morning coat,
thing more ridiculous than an otherwise in- with sewed-orc lapels and good-sized flaps in
telligent tailor telling a customer of the merits waist seam, long a favorite and most becom-
or demerits of "a body-fitting sacque" or of ing form for the higher-class, dashy man of
"a corset-fitting sacque?" Why not call it a horsey proclivities ; but in America what is
loose, a half-fitting, a body-fitting, or corset- called the Newmarket is a top coat with a
fitting Oxonian? In the name of heaven let Chesterfield front, slanting skirt pockets of
me ask American "sartorial art teachers" to the crescent form, with wide side bodies, hip
cease making the nations laugh in derision of buttons substituted by a crow's-foot, silk-em-
them and their "corset-fitting sacque," etc., broidered tacks, and without center seam in
etc. Webster's definition of the word back. Judged by its clownish, inartistic out-
"Sacque, originally a loosely hanging gar- lines, we regard it as a morbid creation of the
ment worn like a cloak about the shoulders cheap ready-made trade, and totally destitute
and serving as a decorative appendage now ; of a single gentleman-like feature. Had this
an outer garment with sleeves, a kind of loose coat been yclepet the rancher's cattle-market
coat worn by men and extending from, top to coat it would have been more appropriately
bottom without a cross seam." When the named, seeing it is the very antipode of the
fish under the arm is not taken out of it, the stylish British gentleman-like Newmarket. In
coat is all that the word implies, but when America the one-button, the three-button and
made to fit close to the figure by cutting it a long-roll morning coats are called frock coats
half inch less in size of chest or by taking a the shooting coat is variously designated "an
fish out under the arm, it ceases to be a English walking coat," "a frock coat with
sacque, and therefore should be correctly re- ;"
flaps and pockets the pea coat, or D.-B.
ferred to as body-fitting, a close-fitting, or, if reefer, in all its varied forms of looseness,
you would rather have it, a corset-fitting Ox- down to and including the "'corset-fitting"
onian. When double-breasted it is known as form, is known as the double-breasted sacque.

a "pea jacket" or "reefer," and when the We have our own way of explaining- the rea-
sacque is in the form of an overcoat it is son why such an absurd hotch-potch jumble
proper to speak of it as a form-fitting, demi- of our trade nomenclature obtains in America,
fitting", or loose-fitting single-breasted or but seeing our explanation would not be com-
double-breasted Chesterfield. In America the plimental to the profundity of our American
one-button, long-skirted, very slightly cut- teachers of cutting and fashion-report pub-
away morning coat is miscalled the Chester- lishers, our respectful sympathy for them
field, which in all other civilized and semi- causes us to withhold our explanation.
civilized parts of creation is known to' be a Throughout our book we have pointed to a
"top coat." The full dress D.-B. frock and few of their remissory errors, not by any
S.-B. frock throughout America is called a means for the sordid purpose of "rubbing it
D.-B. or S.-B. Prince Albert, which, as every in," but in I he hope of being able to rouse
them from their chronic state of mossback sume, however, that a new generation of
lethargy, and we sincerely trust they may American teachers of cutting and fashion re-
receive our comments in the same kind spirit port publishers will require to spring up
in which we proffer them, for the sole en- before those scatter-brain errors of trade
nobling purpose of luring them on and up to nomenclature are corrected, and we may here
the higher levels of modern sartorial art, add we do not deem it necessary for our
thereby saving" the rising generation of cutters readers to agree with everything we say in
from floundering through the find-it-out-for- order to be stimulated and benefited by our
yourself slough of despair, protecting them suggestions or opinions. If we but succeed
from brain-straining, sleepless nights and their in rousing a few of them sufficiently to do
predecessors' dire anguish of heart-wailing their own thinking we will be to a high degree
"Whither shall I fly ? Where hide my misfits satisfied that our work is not in vain. When
and miseries together ? For oh, spirit of Wam- a book of this order becomes a bible to its
pen, I am the most unfortunate cutter that readers, we think it time to cast it away.
ever scraped edge on pipeclay. Now, if thou Books, like men, die, and one of the tests of
hast saving virtue, let me into thy occult; a book's death is that it no longer stimulates
speak the words of peace ; talk to' me and independent thought. In this sense we feel
teach me, O Wampen ! Like a pitying angel assured of our book being very much alive
spread thy wings over me, settle on my breast, and kicking. We do not hope, and, if we
and hatch warm comfort in my heart ere the know ourself correctly, we do not desire, com-
old thirds and fourths, plus and minus disap- piling a book that will be alike pleasing to all
pointments and sorrow chill me to death." manner of cutters. When man a book or a
About fifteen years ago we tried to persuade is everything to all men, the book or man is
the editor of a trade publication to straighten but as a pre-empting lobster can to him who
out America's confused tangle of names of the is A MAN.
varied forms of coats. We based our argu-
ments on the fact of America's using the Eng-
VESTSHOW TO DRAFT.
lish language and also> following up the Brit- Seeing that we have some space to spare,
ish fashions ; they therefore should not make we will throw in a little more than we prom-
a laughing stock of themselves by the persist- ised by giving the purchaser of our book an
ent use of wrong names. But no; true to excellent vest system, the points of which are
their old mossback proclivity, they cling to all arranged to be drafted by the Happle-
their errors of trade nomenclature, as they do Hutcheson 36-unit graduated tapes. The
to their antique Mayflower plus and minus cut- name of the author of the system is unknown
ting systems. We, however, through the news- and unknowable; nevertheless we from time
papers, started a crusade of ridicule anent the to time havehad our risibles strained by lis-
American habit of calling trousers pantaloons. tening to different men claiming it as a prod-
Our met with such success, we have
efforts uct of their inventive genius.
the satisfaction of knowing that today Ameri- Form construction lines O. K. and O. A.
cans never, or hardly ever, place an order Mark across from O to A 3! and down to B ,
for "pantaloons" when they mean trousers. 8J, across to C C to D 9 and on

6 and through
The circus clown and burlesque costumer now to E 9, up from C to F if, up from D to
do all the pantaloonery business. We pre- G 6|. Allowing 3 units for width of back
PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRJCAL SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE.
neck, measure down to K with common inch gade of chancers in America that are doing-
measure full length of vest, with ii added cutters' duties so far outnumber the tailors
for making up. Square across from K. Lo- we here feel the necessity of giving a. few pri-
cate waist line at I 8 below point D. Add on mary school class pointers, which, if intelli-
at point B to H J. At waist point P add on gently adopted, will result in a great saving
i inch. Form front edge P to I 1 inch more of worry and busheling expenses. From A
than half of the half waist measure. Mark to I represents collar stand. When cutting
up from square line to L, according to style D.-B. vest, add on at point B to H not more
or bottom vest form desired, 2.\ to 3, the more than half an inch in place of as in S.-B.
tapering form being the favorite with the best The line H. K. represents the lapel seam, same
dressers, because the less slant we give, the as in pea coat and D.-B. Chesterfield. In
more bulky does the waist appear. Form coats and vests alike this line should always
shoulder from A to G, hollowing slightly have marking stitches as a guide to the proper
that it may be stretched to a straight line. placement of buttons from edge. The one
Half an inch from G form scye through F to marking being placed on top of the other
E, going \ inch below D and E. Form gorge settles "the how-far-back question," this being
line from A to closing- point above top button, a much better way than common Ameri-
the
allowing 1 inch more than measure for mak- can method of taking- chances on a guess. As
ing up, viz., \ for back neck seam, -J- for the waist increases in size the front edge line
shoulder seams ; the remaining half inch, a at P is carried forward in the same ratio as
half of which is obtained by turning in top we have already described in the scientific
of back, is used up in distributing \ of ease application of the degrees of chest and waist
across the total back neck width, the remain- disproportion as applied to coat drafting.
ing per side to be used up in "commanding''
gorge seam. When putting in a silesia, Ital-
ian silk, or satin back in vest, always see to
TO DRAFT THE BACK.
it that your vest maker puts the backs in easy Form construction lines O. K. and O. A.
but not full. The back neck should be ma- From O to A up from A to B down from
3, f ,
nipulated as already advised. Each shoulder O to C across from C to D through D

9, 7,
seam should have from \ to , according to E
to 9, and on F 10,
to from D up to G 6f.
class of goods, evenly distributed from point Measure from A to L on breast as per broken
to point. The side seam should also have the line, and make O to K on back same length.
back put up easy to the extent of \ evenly Square across from K to locate bottom level
distributed from top to bottom. We advise of side seam, or, if you would rather have it,
the application of a club to the head of those

measure down from E to L on side of fore
so-called vest makers who contract the upper part, and adjust length of back from point F
scye from F up toward point G, a section that to match side seam of breast. Form back
should always be strained out a little. This seam from O through CH to K, curving out
class of "artists," in place of making vest to from O to C from to Vie from construction
:{-
cling to the figure, usually stretch the gorge

line intercepting point C, hollowing half an
and lower and bottom edge of vest. Of course inch in at point H and out to construction line
every cutter who is a tailor knows the charm at K. From front edge at P through J and
of correct manipulation of details, but the bri- across back at H, locate side seam J at 2\
FJ
more than half the waist measure. In D.-B. IMPOSSIBILITY FOR THE COLLAR HEIGHT NOT
vests if more than half the waist measure is TO BE CORRECT IF THE SHOULDER-LEVEL MEAS-
all sufficient. Form top of back, shoulder URE BE TAKEN TRUE, AND APPLIED EXACTLY
seam, back scye, side seam, and bottom of as we have advised, and so it is with Dr.
back as per diagram. Wampen's science of anthropometry through-
out the eight "heads" or sections and sub-
sections of the human body ; and ever bear in
mind the simple fact that perfect measures are

HIGH SHOULDERS AND SHORT essential to the obtainment of perfect results.
NECKS. Voltaire tells us "Perfection is attained by
slow degrees ; she requires the hand of time."
High shoulders and short necks, with few
Although absolute perfection in most arts, and
exceptions, are practically one and the same in the application of most sciences, be unat-
thing, and are provided for by making the tainable, he who constantly aims and
at it,
distance O. B. on breast and O. C. on back

perseveres, will come much nearer to it than
shorter in accordance with the shoulder level those whose laziness or despondency prevents
measure. When the shoulder measure is J, them from making the effort. Men are every
-J-, J , or I inch or more shorter than normal, hour of the clay working up to and past the
make the points O. B. and O. C. just exactly limits of all other systems of cutting, but no
that much shorter. Like when measuring for
cutter has ever been able to work up to' and
coat, if the shoulder level be taken correctly, beyond the limits of Dr. Wampen's system.
and you intelligently follow our instructions, We know the limits of Dr. Wampen's science,
IT ISA SHEER IMPOSSIBILITY FOR THE COLLAR just as learned astronomers, navigators, and
HEIGHT TO BE ANYTHING ELSE BUT CORRECT. explorers know the location of the south and
north poles ; but reach them, will you ? Who
can ? Mathematic science is equal to the work
THE LONG-NECKED AND SLOPING- of squaring a circle; but tell us, will you,
SHOULDERED. where is the mathematician that is equal to the
science? Like mathematics, Dr. Wampen's
. As in the short-necked and square-shoul- anthropometrical sartorial art science is com-
dered, the long-necked and sloping-shouldered plete and therefore equal to the requirements
are practically, to the cutter, one and the same of all the varied forms of manhood. But,
thing. There are a few, but very few, ex- like the mathematician and the squaring of the
ceptions, and the exceptions are just as easily circle, where is the cutter that can work up to
provided for. When drafting for the sloping- Wampen's limit of scientific perfection?
shouldered and long-necked, we simply re- We have so often been asked to furnish
verse our method of procedure so as to be copy of our application for situation, and
ecpial with the reversal of conditions. The knowing as we do that "A little nonsense now
shoulder-level measure being j, |-, f, or I inch and then is relished by the wisest men," we
longer than normal, we make the distance O. here reproduce it, with comments of the editor
B. on breast and O. C. back longer by |, -J, J, of a London monthly that copied it from one
or i inch, as the case may be ; and we repeat in of the Ontario newspapers when it was going
the same forceful manner that it is a sheer the rounds of the Canadian press.
A TAILOR WITH A RECORD. having designed and made the coat of many
colors that was presented to Joseph. Its
In the year 1879, a merchant in Coburg, beautiful symmetry of form and its glittering
Canada, having advertised in the Toronto elegance of hues, as you are no doubt already
Globe for the best cutter in the Dominion, aware, caused much jealousy in the family of
received the following characteristic applica- Jacob. The illustrious apostle, St. Patrick,
tion for the situation was advised by His Holiness Pope Celestine
Sir. In reply to your advertisement for the to come to me and get his outfit, which I am
best cutter in the Dominion, I humbly beg to glad to be able to state was completed to the
say that my age, experience, and ability con- entire satisfaction of His Holiness the Pope.
sidered, I feel safe in stating that I am a rare Before St. Patrick crossed the Channel to lay
specimen of a meek-minded cutter, and in pre- down the principles on which the Land
senting myself as a candidate for the vacancy League base their claims, he sent off a special
in your cutting department, which is presump- messenger for me to follow him so when ;
tively the highest office that the cutting world Godfrey Bouillon captured Jerusalem in the
of this great Dominion of ours can offer to year 1099, I went off on a tramp, and I did
the applicant who can produce the best record. not settle down to business until I arrived in
I here cast myself at the footstool of your Scotland. After getting a colossal mud hut built
sophomorical presence, feeling satisfied that on what is now known
as the Argyle estate
your witenagemoteic wisdom will guide you "God
Duke!" my reputation as a
bless the
in selecting the cutter whose record proves cutter soon became known, and I succeded in
him to be the happy possessor of the highest building up a large trade. Prominent among
artistic skill and unstained ability. Let me my clients were Robert Bruce, William Wal-
here unfold to you in epitome form my history lace, John Baliol and his son Ned, Richard
as Tailor, and while you read I am anxious Cromwell, General Monck, Bradshaw, Scott,
that you bear in mind that I am not as other Jones, the Prince of Orange, and the infamous
cutters, viz., of egotistical turn of mind. At Titus Oates. I made William Pitt's first
the time when the Roman Empire had reached communion costume. I made the uniform in
the meridian of its greatness, when every na- which Lord Nelson won the famous naval vic-
tion accessible to its arms had yielded submis- tories of the Nile and Trafalgar. I cut for
sion to its power, when rival monarchs and Wellington, the immortal hero of Talavara,
contending chieftains had ceased their strife Salamanca, Vittoria, and Waterloo. To be
and the troubled elements of sanguinary wars, brief, all the Popes of Rome since the days of
which had for ages convulsed the world, had Peter; all the distinguished rulers of the na-
sunk in repose, I had just completed my ap- tion since the days of Titus, the Roman Em-
prenticeship, and had the honor of being peror; all and scientists
the historians, poets,
called make a suit for Augustus Cae-
upon to since the days of Herodotus, Homer, and Dio-
sar. It was I who made the suit that St. nysius, have been pleased to humbly solicit
Peter wore when he preached in the streets specimens of my sartorial skill, in which they
of Jerusalem, and by the tout ensemble of his proudly adorned the tabernacle of their im-
appearance he so favorably impressed the mul- mortal soul. In speaking of my business con-
titude. In the first year of my apprenticeship nection on this side of the Atlantic, I shall
I exhibited a peculiar talent for originality, I only state that on my arrival on this continent
PROGRESSIVE AN'ITIROI'OMETRICAL SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE. 73
I was met by old Mr. Washington, who re- refer you to your esteemed citizen, Mr. Dick-
ceived and treated me with very great kind- enson ; he knew me well when he was engaged
ness, and the first job I got was to make a in the discharge of his duties as organist to
cover for little George's axe. I continued, Hiram Abiff, whoi was boycotted at the build-
however, to work for the family ever since. ing of Solomon's Temple. Trusting that my
I have made the inaugural suit for every varied experience and business connection
President of the United States down to date, may be considered sufficient to enable me to
with the exception of Andrew Johnson, who discharge the duties of the best situation in
insisted on me allowing him the usual trade the Dominion,
discount, which I, on principle, refused to do. I am, dear sir,
I have just completed a court costume for Anxiously awaiting the appointment,
Lord Lome, and Sir John MacDonald has Jas. Happle-Hutcheson.
frankly acknowledged that the secret of his
unprecedented success as a statesman, and
Blake's success as an orator, lay in the artistic Mr. Hutcheson is an old crony of ours.
taste I display in adjusting the width and style We know him to be a genius, and have every
of their trousers, the length of their sleeve, reason to believe that if the opportunities had
and the height of their coat collar. Lord presented themselves he would have accom-
Beaconsfield also- held a very exalted appre- plished all he asserts in his ably written satire
ciation of me as a tailor, because of the at- on a country merchant in a small Canadian
tention I devoted to those little details in dress town who had the presumption to advertise
which draw to all external appearance the for the best cutter in the Dominion.
line of demarcation between the Duke and the Dr. Darwin Humphreys, M. A.
Basket-maker. For further particulars I Ed. Record of Fashion, London, Eng.
SEVENTH EDITION
-OF THE
HAPPLE HUTCHESON -DR. WAMPEN LECTURE

WITH ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS
Delivered by SPECIAL REQUEST in Sartorial Hall, Chicago
The Mast er Worlds' Fair Year { Chicago

oW
'*//,
O/fci
1893 ocvt&
**</
,
s
N**
ORGANIZED c ustom Ctttt** AUG US 7, 1887.
Officers for 1893. J. HAPPLE HUTCHESON

President, GEO. W. Du Nah.
Vice-President, Wm. Fatchile. At the Sartorial Club, speaks eloquently of DR, WAMPEN
Financial, Secretary, A. L. Anderson.
Treasurer, Chas. J. Stone. and his works, and gives a Practical
Recording Secretary A. Starek.
,
Corresponding Secretary, H. M. EnrighT. Exemplification,

Forman of Practical Work, C. SachTLEBEn.
Librarian, Paul Dittman.
PROEM. After calling the meeting to order President

" To hide true worth from public view,
Is burying diamonds in their mine ;
George W. Du Nah, addressing the assembly,
All is not gold that shines, 'tis true,
But all that is gold ought to shi?ie 1 said :
OUR Master Tailors' and CustomCutters' Association

Gentlemen: When I received Mr. Hutcheson's
is reputed the largest aud most progressive in the
letter stating that in compliance with the expressed
world. By endorsing J. Happle Hutcheson's opinions
wish of the President and a number of the members of
and technical work, the society has honored him as no
other cutter has ever been honored since the inception our Association, he would hold himself in readiness to
of the Association. give us an exemplification of Dr. Wampen's science of
Mr. Happle Hutcheson, being an old student of Dr. anthropometry, as applied to all the varied forms of
Wampen's, and well known to the trade as a successful
shoulders, etc., there was no time lost in unnecessar3'
cutter, able writer and teacher, the Master Tailors'
and Custom Cutters' Association invited him to preliminaries, and on Secretary Enright notifying the
come to their Sartorial Hall acd there expone the members of our Association, the fame of the author of
long famous Dr. Wampen's system of Anthropometry. the system and the known ability of the lecturer com-
In response to the invitation, Mr. Hutcheson came bined to create quite a flutter of anticipatory pleasure,
forward, and true to his reputation, he handled the
resulting, I am glad to see, in a bumper house, and I
subject in such an admirable manner, the Society voted
that " The Hutcheson-Wampen lecture and diagrams
now have a most pleasurable and easy duty to perform
be published by the Society for the benefit of the trade in asking your careful atteution to the subject to be
and sold at a price just covering cost of publication, so handled by the able lecturer of this evening, who,
that cutters at a distance might have an opportunity although not a member of our Association, kindly and
of participating to some extent in the benefits accru-
frankly consented to favor us with an exemplification
ing from such able, edifying and practical demonstra-
tions." It was also advised that lectures and object
of this long famous system, which is regarded through-
lessons be given from time to time on kindred subjects out Europe aud America as the mother of Sartorial
by men of known ability, who are able to present Science. I am happy to see that the announcement of
original seeds from whence spring vast fields of new
the lecture has filled our hall with the best class of the
thought, that may be further cultivated, beautified aud
members of our profession, and I feel doubly happy in
enlarged, and that said lectures be published by the
the foreknowledge of the fact of the lecturer being
Society. The Executive Committee reserving their
yeto prerogative. F. M. King, Editor. master of his subject. It is, therefore, quite unneces-
sary for me to occupy your time in giving any expla- to fit and please his customer, that Rarey the horse-
nation concerning either the fame of the author of the tamer was ever wont to display when approaching the
system, or of the ability of the lecturer, each of which most inveterate kicker that ever plunged in a sur-
is well known to the trade ; and should it so happen cingled martingale.

that there be any present who do not chance to know I have not incorporated into any of my diagrams an
of either the author or the lecturer, I can assure them illustrative draft in the treatment of the degrees of dis-
that they won't be allowed to remain in the dark, as proportion of chest and waist, so admirably and accur-
Mr. Hutcheson is equal to the occasion. ately arranged, preserving as it does the balance in the
distribution of increase of breadth or length as correct-
Mr. Hutcheson, on stepping to the front of
ly as the beam of the apothecary's weigh scales meas-
the platform, addressed the assembly as fol-
uresoutthe balance of avoirdupois, because I am deeply
lows: enough conversant with the detail work of this system
Mr. President and Fellow Craftsmen: Seeing to be fully alive to the fact that I could not in one
that it has already been made plain to you the chief night do anything like justice to all of the varied
cause of my presence here to-night I shall not trifle forms of disproportion as correctly provided for by this
with the time of this large and able assembly of the most learned recluse German philosopher and famous
cream of our trade by giving further explanation, but scientific anatomist, whose system of anthropometry
apply myself to the work that lies before me, and at stands technically in the same relation to the work of
once proceed with my executive share of this business the cutter as Euclid does to that of the geometrician.
meeting by giving to you an exemplification of the Dr. Wampen having given to our trade a sartorial tes-
world-renowned Dr. Wampen's science of anthropo- tament, an ever reliable text book, many cutters have
metry, which, reduced to plain Anglo-Saxon, signifies taken it for granted that he at some time or other of
man measurement, or the science of the structure of his life had worked at the tailoring trade. Such, how-
the physical functions of every section of the human ever is not the case ; Wampen never worked at our
body, as applied to any or all of the various forms of trade. He was a learned German gentleman of leisure,
shoulders, including those of the very high and short and lived and died recently in the quiet retirement of
necked, as well as those of the low, extremely oblique easy circumstances. A German tailor happened to call
and long necked order; also the short thick-set, and at the Doctor's residence, where he saw a diagram of a
tall slim figures, which to many cutters, from the very human "cuticle," or skin, lying on his table. The
beginning of the rule of thumb age and down even to tailor on looking at it felt satisfied that the draft re-
the present time, have proved a source of much per- vealed to some extent the hitherto occult mysteries of
plexity. The cutter who uses a system that does not sartorial science, and, therefore, entered into conversa-
lay down a specific law for the producing of a surface tion with the Doctor auent the subject of garment cut-
to cover the surface of all the varied degrees of dispro- ting, and suggested that Wampen apply a portion of
portion as found in each, or combined in all of the his easy leisure to the working out and perfecting of a
eight heads or sections of the human figure, is of system of garment cutting oh a scientifically adjusted
necessity compelled to laboriously plod through his basis, as applied to the drafts of the variously formed
work, often in a state of prespiratory trepidation, pro- and malformed human skin diagrams as shown to him
ducing a mental strain that causes him much worry, in by the Doctor, who at the time just laughed at the idea
cases even where there actually exists no necessity for of his becoming a cutter of men's clothes, and a teach-
the slightest concern. The diagrams that I have er of tailoring to tailors; but the little German tailor
drafted and brought with me to be used in the elucida- happened to be one of those men who knew a good
tory work that I have undertaken to discharge, will thing when he saw it, and being persistent, his contin-
assist me, I hope, in proving to the entire satisfaction ued importunity in due course of time prevailed, caus-
of the most skeptical of the learnedly practical critics ing the Doctor to reduce the art of cutting to the true
here to-night, that Dr. Wampen has not only laid down basis of a scientific standard, and thereby came about
a most admirable rule for the guidance of the cutter, the discarding of the primordial, garbled methods of the
but, that in his system of anthropometry he has given to good old thirds and fourths, "rule of thumb," cutters
us an ever unerring, inflexible, scientific law an accu- of the "rock of eye order, "who had to depend so large-
rate knowledge of which enables the cutter to take hold ly on their own judgement and practical experience,
of and handle the most uncommon forms of men with as distinguished from a knowledge of scientific princi-
that degree of intelligent confidence in his own ability ples. Many tailors have undertaken the private study
and practice of the Wampen system who have reluc- modern fallacies. Some authors have applied them-
tantly been forced to cast this labor saving gem aside, selves too much to particulars and neglected essentials
because of the difficulties they experienced in master- in the main structure, while others lose sight of detail
ing the work, which the learned Doctor has dressed up work, their fixed gaze being centered on the main
in rather heavy-weight, pedantic, scientific, anatomical structure only, these two species of contemplation are
phraseology. And yet this system of anthropometry, found so harmonically symmetrized in the Wampen
when shorn of its scientific technical diction, as I shall system, that the combined skill of the most ingenious
here present it, at once becomes so very facile to the of our modern system makers is made to stand in
average understanding and so easy to practice, I feel dumb amazement when critically brought brow to
satisfied that after I explain it, the great bulk of you brow with the Wampen system, which the most skilled
will agree with me in declaring the system the very practical critics of Europe and America have long ago
quintessence of simplicity, or simplicity simplified; and pronounced, and still declare it, the cutter's " ne plus
I may here add, at the risk even of being suspected of ultra," a proclamation the correctness of which I here
carrying a Wampen wheel-piece in my hat, that all demonstrate by the extreme cases I have selected for
intelligent Wampenites whom it has been my privilege my exemplification of the system, which I know to be
to meet frankly concede that there are throughout equal to any emergency. The merits or demerits of a sys-
Europe and America a number of good systems in tem or principle is never so fully demonstrated as when
daily use; but I have never met a well-posted Wam- applied to extreme cases,and, being mindful of this fact,
penite, who, on having any gcod' quality or point of I have selected extremes that are not met with except
any good system shown to him who could not then by very few but once in a lifetime, so that you may the
and there show exactly the same good feature treated more easily point out to me the weakweak points, if
by Wampen with scientific accuracy so far reaching points there be, in this system as laid down by Dr.
and so very complete is this system yclept anthropo- Henry Wampen, one of the most learned German
metry which, although it is now over fifty years old, scientific anatomists that ever lived, and who by the
I know that I stand safe from intelligent contradiction merest accident was lured into the work of reducing
in declaring it to be at least fifty years in advance of the art of cuttipg to a scientific principle, none except
the scientific knowledge of our modern system makers, those who have but a superficial knowledge of the
whose strained efforts to equal or excel Wampen, work ever venture to attack it, and the paralogizing of
although feeble, are laudable as being assiduous ;
but, sciolists only catch the ear of the over credulous.
in their indiscreet zeal those feather-weight authors There are also a number of bolder spirits if not greater
seem to ignore that which has already been rendered geniuses, who think themselves at liberty to overturn
true, and overlook the unfortunate fact of their so- accepted established scieu ti fie priuc: pies, and make way
called " new system " being but a vertiginous whirl for themselves and their opinions, which when closely
of adjacent angles, lacking any addition to the light of inspected are found to be but repetitions of the same
knowledge, they having worked in direct opposition thing in point of invention, different only in point of
to the method of the divine geometrician, which in the treatment, and so, the real discoveries, though at first
beginning created time alone, delaying its material view may appear numerous, prove on examination to
creations until the sun had illuminated space; but our be but few, as to the point of usefulness ; the philoso-
modern system makers begin by giving us the fruit of phy we principally receive from them must be ac-
their labor in the form of squares, elliposids and knowledged puerile or talkative, rather than genera-
angles, without any increase to the light of knowledge, tive, as being fruitful of controversies, but barren in
the great bulk of them having commenced in the effects, and as the subject before this assembly has its
gloom, they worked down through the gloaming and deserts and its forests, our object is to find, not agree-
wound up in the darkness and confusion of theory and ments, but arts, not what agrees with principles but
practice. principles themselves, men often seem to erect an art-
Some cutters evince an unbounded admiration of but in reality only corrupt the labors of their predeces-
old methods, as others too easily embrace novelty, and sors, having built on a fallacious or weak foundation,
but few can preserve the just medium so as to neither they gain a mere volatile fame, and even that is
tearup what the old authors have correctly laid down, secured because of the imperfect knowledge we have
nor despise the just innovations of the modern system of the discoveries in the arts and sciences of our pro-
makers and, therefore, we now have something

;
fession as made public in different ages and countries,
approaching an unlimited combination of ancient and and still less do we know of what has been done by
particular persons, and transacted in private, for we punctuation mark would be to the complete works of
have no official records of the births or miscarriages of the immortal Shakespeare, or the never dying written
the labors of our scientific s} stem makers; others again constitution of America; it is the posession of a thor-
commit themselves to mechanical experience, yet ough knowledge of those minor matters and the abil-
make their experiments at random without any method ity of the author to gather them in, and harmonously
of inquiry; very few of this class of workers have any blend them, that produces the perfect whole, and it
noteworthy views, but esteem it a great achievement took the genius of Wampen to investigate our methods
if they make a single discovery, although it lead them of procedure to give to cutters this complete system of
into deeper error and lands them in an inextricable simple elegance.

eutopian labyrinth of the miud, where the collective A few cutters of the Pharisee type have approached
mass of our trade literature, art and scieuce, weeded me in the spirit of the quibbler and scorner, while many
of its fables, its renascent transmutations, opacous quo- have come to me imbued with the spirit of the"learned
tations and frivolous dispute anent the philology of of Israel," who approached the Nazarine in search of
crookedness, straightness, length, breadth, or depth, it a knowledge of the truth, and put the query, " How
would shriuk into a marvelously small cone; the base, think you was it possible for a doctor, no matter how
the apex, the segment, the parabola, the dodechearone learned in the art and science of producing a surface
octahederon or hexoctahedron, conjunctive points of to cover a surface, but who had never worked at the
which are all so amply and accuratively arranged and trade, to be able to make a system that is more simple
adjusted within the narrow limits of Dr.Wampen's co- to learn and practice, and so much more perfect in its
ordinates, as worked out in his system, which for the practical results, than the systems of practical tailors
last fifty years has stood invulnerable through the who have become gray in their practice as cutters? "
many critical tests as intelligently applied from time I have simply to answer such complex questions by
to time by the ablest cutters of Europe and America reminding the inquirer of the well known biographic
and now a learned man of Gotham comes from the historical fact that Wampen has given to cutters a
east "with a new light," or " cone system, the apex of science, as the blind Milton gave to the world a picture
which is in the neck point, or middle part of the hyoid of Paradise, or like the deaf Beethoven, who, leaning
arch," the Wampen system according to this gentle- over his piano invented and produced music strains
man's statements is crude in principle, awkward in which he could never hope to hear. Milton saw not,
construction, and unreliable in practice ; as compared but his picture of Paradise is matchless. Beethoven
with his new system, we have heard this gentleman's heard not, yet he composed symphonies and oratories
assertions, and now calmly await the production of the eurythmy of which is unsurpassed. The genius
his proofs, but how he hopes to upset the Dr. Wampen was in the men and they delivered it. Arts may be
system, which he as yet has not learned how to use, is acquired by application, proportions and attitudes may
a proposition the solving of which is away beyond be learned and repeated, mathematical principles may
the strained reach of my understanding. In contem- be, and have been comprehended and adopted ; but,
plating the numerous methods of cutting as produced there never has been hewn from the marble a second
by the many "authors" of systems, our mind is drawn Apolla Belvedere ; the ideal dwelt in the sculpture's
from those over whom the towering genius of Dr. mind and his hand finished the statue, which teaches
Wampen seems to bend, attracting us by the colossal the world, and so with Wampen. While searching out
worth of his principle, as seen in the clear simplicity the latent treasures of our old authors, we should be
and solid scientific foundation upon which it is con- mindful to analyze the doubtful, of ancient and mod-
structed, with its far reaching accuracy of details; ern alike, so that we may be able to intelligently
whether we regard this learned author for the variety accept what is good and reject the undesirable.
of his talents, the soundness of his judgment.the depth I am well aware and ever mindful of the fact that
of his penetration, the acuteness of his sagacity, the enthusiasts are apt to be carried away by the ex-
stability of his reasoning faculties, or the extent of his cess of their enthusiasm far beyond the boundery line
knowledge, he is equally the subject of astonishment of common sense, and make bold and extravagant
and admiration, the clearness of his plan of construc- statements in the extolement of the supposed or real
tion, his precise demonstration of cause and effect, his supereminency of their pet and oft times hypothical
logical method of procedure in the practical arrange- and therefore totally impracticable daily bread and
ment of the most trivial detail work, each of which in butter earning theories. I say I am well aware of this
themselves are as unimportant as a single letter or too common weakness, and in all my assertions I have
cautiously avoided it, and erred ouly on the side of to the positive side increases, deviating from its primi-
truth, as I will prove by giving you the incontrovert- tive ratio, and becoming in this manner abnormal ; as
able evidence of the integrity of my statements. such again causes the co-ordinatts in the model which
Just last week I was asked, "What sort of system is express those ratios, must increase or decrease, so we
Wampen's?" " It is a system for cutters to use in come to the abnormal forms of the models both in
drafting patterns for men's clothes," I answered. position and dimension in the same manner as we
" Yes, but is it a breast measure or shoulder measure have come to a knowledge of the abnormal forms of
system?" To all such queries I answer, that depends the human body, and are therefore always enabled to
altogether on what sort of system you wish to make construct the model in complete agreement with the
of it; it is a " breast measure S3 stem ;
" it is a "full form and size of that body, whatever they may be."
height" or "ground length system; " it is a "division- While you honor me with your earnest attention to
al" or " sub-divisional system ;
" it is an " altitudinal what I have got to say and lay before you, I wish you
or longitudinal system ;
" it is a " thoulder measure- to bear in mind the fact that I have no new fundamen-
ment" or "admeasurement system ;
" it is an "angula- tal principles to bring down to you this evening, nor
tor or mathematical system ;
" it is a " circumferential can I claim any personal merit for the production of
or diametrical system ;
" it is a " cone system," the any of the principles of cutting that I am about to
apex of which is located in the hyoid arch; it is an present to you, which will only be an exemplification
"anatomical," "geometrical" or "tiigonometrical sys- of what in part was taught to me when receiving my
tem;" it is a "perpendicular or horizontal line system;" early technical education from one of the ablest
it is a " parallel or square line system ;
" and, if you authors and teachers of cutting that Europe ever pro-
want an "allegorical system," on which you can soar duced. The sciolist, whose pride is usually as great as
to the top tower of the temple of fame in the seventh his ignorance, is always on the still-hunt for something
heaven of Utopian sartorial bliss; I say, study Wam- new and better than the system he has acquired but a
pen's system of anthropometry. superfical knowledge of, while in the density of his
Those who wish to follow the profession of a cutter, own ignorance, he, with a supercilious I-know-it-all
need not hope for much success in Chicago, or any of swagger, disdainfully ignores the old; the result is the
the great business centers of America, but more ever running stream of years is constantly carrying
especially Chicago, unless they be thoroughly posted down to us on its surface much that is light and tumid,
in the laws of cause and effect as applied to garment while the ponderous truths and solid gems of learned
cutting, so that they may be equal to all emergencies authors, of the Dr. Henry Wampen and Dr. Darwin
to form garments for customers whom they have never Humphrey's type, are allowed to sink and become lost
seen, and be able to cut from measurements taken by in the dark depths of oblivion; hence the concealment
country grocers, hardware merchants,etc.,who have no of much revealed truth, the obscurity of that which is
technical knowledge of our art. Sight must not be lost of true excellence; the consequent entanglements of
of the important fact that of late years the tailoring ill constructed, imperfect, barren s\ stems that come
trade has undergone remarkable changes; it is but a floating down stream, propelled by the wind of their
few years since the "Special" or country order trade authors, and exhibiting in their generalities only the
devolved upon Chicago; and the employing of travel- counterfeits of perfection, meager in details, suspected
ers to solicit orders and take measures, although of by their makers, and therefore defended and propoga-
only recent introduction, is ever on the increase; those ted by artifice and chicenary. In all earnestness I ask,
cutters who are called on to cut such orders, will find especially those who are in the adolescent stage of
themselves unequal to the duties devolving upon them their trade to handle thoughtfully what they have
if they do not understand how to harmonize measures already learned, that they may the easier perfect the
with height, form, age and weight; and this system, as old and lead on to the new, being equally inclined to
you can so plainly see, has all of those special features cultivate the discoveries of antiquity as to strike out
treated with scientific accuracy, and in a manner dis- fresh paths and pastures green; ever miudful that
tinctively its own; and, as Watnpeu truly says, "As those who are capable of taking in but few considera-
nothing stands still in nature, but is fluctuating in tions, easily decide, act hastily, err ofttn ; misunder-
quantity as well as form, thus altering in dimension as standing the ultimate end of knowhdge, which some
well as position, the human body becomes also subject men covet out of a natural curiosity or inquisitive
to those fluctuations; and hence this is true of its ratio temper; some to entertain the mind with variety and
which sometimes to the negative side diminishes ; or delight; others for ornament and reputation, a few
for contention and victory. Some for a livlihood only; body," are treated each in their own section
others for a hoard of mammon, and but very few for or part of a section, independent of the other.
the sake of employing the divine gift of reason for question of straightness and crook-
The vexed
their own benefit in common with their fellow man.
edness, depth and width fallacies, all appear
" But for a' that, and a' that," the day is fast ap-
as vapor before the wind, when explained or
proaching, when cutters " the world o'er, will broth-
ers be for a' that." And now I say, let us all join illustrated by this system; each of the eight
in making the light shine before men, that they may heads or sections are handled independently
see the good work and glorify the author. of the other, all of which have their units of
the whole; to regulate distance to points, and

Throughout the delivery of this oration, like the propositions of Euclid, till demonstra-
the audience were held in rapt attention. At ted, seem puzzling, but when demonstrated
the conclusion of the lecture, Mr. Hutcheson the mind at once receives them by a kind of
displayed on the easel, his beautifully drafted affinity, as if we had known it all before, so
diagrams, all of which were executed in trio very lucid was Mr. Hutcheson's masterful ex-
colors, showing in each of the diagrams the emplification of the detail work of the system.
normal, as per solid lines. Diagram A illus- Solid lines of Diagram C illustrates the nor-
trates the scientific yet admirably simple prin- mal 36 breast, and 5 feet 4 height; or 56 inches
ciple of treating or providing for local abnor- "ground length," with dotted lines showing
mal increase or decrease in shoulder level, as an increase in width to 51 breast measure,
per dot, and dot and dash lines, as shown in without any increase in the height or depth
upper, or shoulder level section of draft of points, while dotted and dash lines show an
back and breast, the depth of scye measure increase in height or depth points to 7 feet 5,
being 8, 9 and io}4, the difference being all or T]T/& inches ground length, but without
found in the upper section of depth of scye. any increase in the breast measure 36. Dia-
Diagram B reverses the position of increase gram D shows scale of division of the two
and decrease in depth of scye points, while the heights as used in the illustrative work of the
actual depth remains the same, 8, 9 and 10)^; lecturer; and Diagram E shows the system as
the shoulder levels of diagram in this case are produced with the standard unit points in
all alike, but the increase and decrease is all plain figures. The cutter who applies himself
confined to the shoulder blade section; in to the study of what we have given him and
illustration of the extra erect small shoulder has any suspicion of not having got his
blade form, and the extra full-backed or large money's worth will please forward his name,
shoulder blade form, these illustrations also address and photograph to the foreman of
show how the abnormalities that turn up in practical work. F. M. King, Chairman of
each or all of the " eight heads of the human Printing Committee.
Z X
s:
CUTTING LESSONS. ex.

o
o
In conjunction with our three
months reduced price list sale of
patterns, we have arranged to
allow a LIBERAL DISCOUNT

ON TUITION FEE.
IS..
I
c
<
O
TllC JVlelll WHO OeSireS
to learn the cutting should select a system by the
study of which he gains a true knowledge of the concrete or rock bottom fundamental
laws of the art, and thereby secure a knowledge of his trade that will enable him to test
the correctness or incorrectness of the principles upon which other systems, that from
time to time come under notice, are misconstructed ;there is no other system extant that
will do this as the Wampen System does. To all who contemplate a successful cutting
career we recommend Happle Hutcheson-Wampen
a reading of the lecture, as delivered
by special request, and duly consider the statements therein made, AS ENDORSED,
PUBLISHED AND SOLD TO THE TRADE BY THE MASTER TAIL-
ORS' AND CUSTOM CUTTERS' ASSOCIATION, which is claimed to be the
largest and most progressive of its kind in the WORLD,
WHY SHOULD I LEARN THE CELEBRATED

DR. WAMPEN'S WORLD-RENOWNED SYSTEM OF ANTHROPOMETRY?
1. BECAUSE a time saving gem as perfect as arithmetic science
it is perfect, easy to is
learn and simple to practice.
2. BECAUSE the Wampen System never yet made a misfit, although cutters who use it
sometimes do, just as the most accomplished arithmeticians at times give out the
wrong change.
3. BECAUSE it is as perfect in preserving the balance, in distributing the increase and de-
crease in length and breadth, as the apothecary's weight scales are in measuring out
the balance of avoirdupois.
4. BECAUSE for more than fifty 3'ears it is the system by which all the learned makers of
systems, throughout Europe and America, test the accuracy of their own methods, it
being the same to the cutter that Euclid is to the geometrician.
5. BECAUSE all well posted Wampenite cutters on being shown any good point of any
good system can there and then show exactly the same good feature as treated by
Wampen with scientific accuracy, so far reaching, all embracing, and so very complete
is his system of anthropometry.
6. BECAUSE you will then have a thorough, practical knowledge of the very quintessence
of fundamental principles, as laid down by the most learned scientiest that ever made a
system, that will always accurately produce a surface to cover the surface of any and
every form of humanity, no matter what the size or shape.
7. BECA.USE the Wampen System of Anthropometry, like the split in the pen as invented
by the Egyptians (three thousand years before Christ) for conducting the ink to the
paper, has never been improved upon and never can be.
J. HAPPLE IIUTCHJISOX, Principal,
GSO Davis Street, CHICAGO. The Dr. Wampen Cutting Institute.
THREE MONTHS REDUCED PRICE LIST SALE OF

THE DR. WAMPEN INSTITUTE, UP-TO-DATE MODEL PATTERNS.
Single Breasted Sacks, 14 Sizes, 33 to 46 Brea ular Price $12 00. Reduce dP rice $7.00.
Double " H" 33

46 12 00. 7.00.
Cut-Awav Frocks.. 14" 33 " 46 " 12 00. 7 00.
Single Breasted Prince Albert? ,'4 33 " 46 " 12.00. 7.00.
Double " " " 14 " 33 " 46 " 12,00. 7.00.
Dress Coats, 14 " ' 46 " 12.00. 7.00.
33
Fly Front Chesterfields, 12 " 34 " 4S 12 00. 7 00.
Double Breasted " 12 " 34 " 45 12.00. 7.00.
Vests. 14 " 33 '46
'
5 00. 3.00.
Trousers, " H
33 46 seat'
5.00. 3 00.
Single Coat Patterns of either of the above sizes. 1. 00. 75-
Vest " " " .50. 35-
" Trouser " " " "
50. 35-
N. B. Our Patterns are all made of regular pattern paper. 4=* When sending order be sure to write name aud address PLAIN.
All letters addressed to J. HAPPLE HUTCHESON, 630 Davis Street, Chicago, 111.
MAR 9 19 3
MAB Q 1903
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drafting and cutting any size, or the whole range of sizes, before spend- IIAPI'l.llllll IIKSOYS
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DR Wampens World Renowned System of Anthropometry 1903

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DR Wampens World Renowned System of Anthropometry 1903

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: .::" r_ ':.:.,. T.

Entered According to Act of Congress, in the Year 1903,

To bring a calm contentment to the trou- "improvements" on the unimprovable. In the

"Belfast"as a young manMr.

Photography and Tailoring 23

The Yachtman-Like Doctor 26 The Prince Albert Proper 60

DR. WAMPEN'S SYSTEM OF SCIENTIFIC

at "the apex of manubrium claim that young America, strong, vigorous,

thing that can with truth be said in favor or

While we keep the antique thirds and AN EXCELLENT BLUFF.

discarded not because of its being -

six size, is always less or more than an inch,

COMMON SENSE INSUFFICIENT. sonably hope to attain success. The sooner

pathetically constrained to exclaim, "How

OLD HAS-BEENS. Wampen science, and they slide into oblivion

like a frog into a pond." We earnestly rec-

ically, theoretically, and mathematically in- pense.

correct, and therefore practically false. These

of a thirty-sixth, as in the first case, which is

these teachers of soi-called sartorial art science lack of instinctive intuition.

only give us for an answer an evasive com-

of Polycletus. Those ancient artists deviated

infuse into their subject, just as thoroughly

trons. When the sculptor desired to represent

vidual ideality, producing a form of forehead

of a coat for a very short-necked, high-shoul-

portrait painter, desiring to make the face

bleness and grace, the neck was made bare,

tinct ; and that was the last we heard of either

manhood are the Patagonians, whose average

of men that we remember knowing anything

sight by the effect of this difference of stature,

AN APPROXIMATE SYLLABUS. human figure reduced to centimeter fractions.

brief approximate syllabus as serving to show

femur (thigh) thence to the upper tibia

many divergent forms of men, is an everlast- reputation of the cutter.

leading up to greatly improved results. It quirements of the individual customers or the

a clear knowledge of the Wampen science principles of characteristic suitability in sarto-

style, or profession. penurious or profligate, all of whom may be

great a variety of conformation to submit to a feeder of swine, as in real life. We expect to

meet a professional man not in the dress of

priced American trades. home, go to the British tailor to secure it.

COMPLEXION AND COLOR EFFECTS. guishable from militarism. It is the ability to

engender that becoming trimness for the vari-

And why not the tailor? No matter what the

fangs on the very vitals of high-priced tailor-

terously curved side seams, with tastefully

pleats, delicately arched hips revealing no ten-

horizontal front line finish, while the skirt

age and personality of the wearer, combining

ability as met with even in the highest lati-

of teachers of 'a sartorial art," who are them-

selves prompted by such unconceptible clown- THOMAS CARLYLE'S VIEW OF

traced to the fact of so many of America's

citizens having obtained their education in the

SHAKE OFF THE BLUES: man, of pusilanimity ; we introduce a tailor's

the tailor is not only a man, but something

streaks of blue appear through the clouds the

and it will be da)'." Enough, we think, has

tire possess some neutralizing influence over

NO GOOD HISTORICAL PAINTING. any individual peculiarity or eccentricity of

While we do not think it necessary for a might be improved by a contrast of a darker

advice. stand makes a most favorable impression on