Professional Documents
Culture Documents
ROOM
OPERATIONS
ASSIGNMENT - 1
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SUBMITTED BY
ASHISH KUMAR
ANNEPU- 6
VAIBHAV -26
DFT SEMESTER (V)
NIFT HYDERABAD
INDEX
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WET PROCESSING
The Wet processing of the textile industry covers all the processes on a
textile that involve some form of wet or chemical treatment. It is the
chemical nature of the wet processing, that distinguishes it from the other
sectors of the textile industry such as yarn, fabric and garment
production.
There are mainly two types of wet processes used to increase the
asthetic features of the fabric:
Dyeing
Printing
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The basic operations concerning the wet processing are:
PREPARATION
COLOURATION
FINISHING PROCESSES.
Preperatory processes exist to ensure that the textile has the right
physical and chemical properties for it to be coloured or finished.
Preparation processes are used to remove impurities (fats, waxes, sizes,
spinning lubricants etc.,) from natural fibres and any added substances
from earlier stages of processing, If dyestuffs/finishes need to be applied,
impurities must be removed first.
SINGEING
DESIZING
SCOURING
BLEACHING
MERCERIZING
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Shearing and cropping removes fibres and loose yarns of up to
8cm are cut from the surface of the fabric.
Surface hair removal is the first stage in a preparation sequence and
can be carried out by the process of Singeing.
Sizes are applied to the warp yarns of woven fabrics to assist the
weaving process and must be removed prior to dyeing or printing by
a process known as Desizing.
Scouring removes water-soluble impurities, waxes and fats and
soiling. It partially removes vegetable matter and has little effect on
any natural colouring matter that may be present in the fibre.
Removal of these impurities greatly improves the absorbency of the
fibre, which is essential if dyeing and printing are to be successful.
Bleaching converts natural colorants to colorless products and
helps to breakdown any remaining vegetable matter.The bleaching
of cellulosic fibres is done with oxidizing agents, usually one or two
among Sodium hypochlorite, Hydrogen peroxide, Sodium chlorite
and Calcium hypo chlorite.
Mercerization is a preparation process, which is only applicable to
cellulosic fibres and cotton in particular. Mercerization swells
cellulosic fibres, making the fibre more lustrous, stronger, giving it a
greater capacity to accept dye, more absorbency; a softer handle
and making it more extensible. Mercerization can improve the
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appearance of cotton fabric with a high percentage of immature
fibres by the increased luster and dye acceptance.
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Preparation of man made fiber fabrics
GREY INSPECTION
This is an important stage at which proper inspection should
be carried out.
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the indices for certain end results and one can decide at this
stage itself whether a particular specification can be met or
not in the final product.
Examples:
Inferior mix with dead cotton and immature cotton will
cause undesirable specks on un- mercerized dyed
fabric. Even Bleached fabrics will look neppy.
Sometimes mercerization also will not improve the
appearance.
Fabric without the proper reed width and grey width will
not give the desired finished width and construction
parameters. Where the specification is for pre- shrunk
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finish, the grey width should be determined in advance,
taking this aspect also into consideration.
Commissioned Process houses should be fore-
warned and insist on the correct Reed / Grey width.
Processing on Mercerizer and Senters will also pose
problems.
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different blend compositions /merge numbers in case
of Polyester (Synthetic) blends.
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Fabrics with high incidence of warp and or weft floats
like in some Jacquards cannot be sheared and
cropped. Similarly very delicate fabrics cannot stand
this operation.
The removal of loose threads and trimming /cleaning
will have to be done while mending on the inspection
machines / tables manually.
Caution should be exercised to avoid fabric susceptible
to damages during shearing and cropping. This will go
a long way to avoid further problems elsewhere in the
process sequence.
PROBLEMS DETAILS
Loose threads anchored on surface of Loose threads will get wound
fabric not removed due to poor on guide rollers forming ridges
performance of the operation in the processing machines and
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cause creases at these places.
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and the machine in subsequent
operations case study.
Intermittent rotation of these
rollers due to bearing defect will
give differential
cleaning/rubbing and cause
Emery rollers major causes for problems
variation in shade/ appearance.
Settings for fabric contact
should be pre-determined to
avoid satisfactory cleaning.
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SUGGESTED ACTIONS
Vigilant supervision.
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The defects caused at this stage, if allowed unnoticed, will cause
a number of problems related to rubbing marks, tear / holes,
hazy appearance, and even apparent dyeing faults like patchy
effects.
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over ride other considerations for making up a batch.
Examples:
Weight/construction/width wise grouping will be critical at
both continuous and batch wise preparation stages of
scouring, but not so critical in certain operations like in the
chainless mercerizing range.
If for some reason the small Process House is resorting to
batch mercerizing / causticising, batch identity should be
maintained. However this method of mercerization is not
very satisfactory and can only be a compromise with the
attendant problems.
The problems relating to mixing of categories shall be
further discussed under Scouring, Mercerizing etc.
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STITCHING
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Considerations Consequences during Processing
Will result in Weft distortion Any
Piece ends cut correction on the machine cannot
obliquely to the weft solve this unless the piece ends are
direction and joined torn along the weft line and again re-
stitched along the weft line
Stitch thread should withstand the
Stitching thread
rigours of the process sequences /
selection
chemicals used / tension / stress etc.
Stitching pattern Butt to butt stitching would be ideal
for fabrics with good cover factor and
with standard reed x pick parameters
and heavy fabrics. Fabrics with low
cover factor and low reed x pick
parameters; also some of the re-
generated cellulose and their blends
may yield and fray to snap at the
joints under tension during
processing.
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washing machine nips.
Beginning and
End of the stitching
The joint will open up at the
not properly locked
selvedges causing Selvedge folds,
rolling /curling of selvedges.
Variation in Grey Any protrusion of piece beyond the
width stitching shall result in folding of the
selvedge starting from the protruding
Variation in grey
portion: some times right through the
width within a
piece length.
tolerance of 2cm*
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guided (stretched / relaxed) such that
at the end there is no protrusion
CASE 1
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GREY
ROOM
OPERATIONS
AT
SANGHI
TEXTILES
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SANGHI TEXTILES PVT. LTD
Sanghi Textiles Pvt. Ltd., one of the largest and latest textile processors in
South India, strives for customer satisfaction while attempting excellence in
quality. It was commissioned in 1979 and now runs with a production
capacity of 100000 metres per day. It is an integrated unit with processing
facilities of cotton, synthetic and blended fabric of all qualities. It has
updated and upgraded quality management system with modern
technologies to enhance customer satisfaction while obtaining feedback
from their valued customers.
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PROCESS FLOW
Scouring
Singeing
Souring
Scouring
Mercerizing
Bleaching + H2O2 Treatment
Jet Dyeing
Mercerizing
Finishing
Souring
Sanfronising &
Jigger Dyeing Calendering
Finishing
Folding and Packaging
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Sanfronising & Folding and Packaging
Calendering
DEPARTMENT
Grey room Department
Bleaching Department
Dyeing Department
Printing Department
Finishing Department
Folding Department
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Grey room operations at Sanghi Textiles
The Main purpose of the Greyroom Department is to inspect the grey
fabric for weaving defects, to mend all repairable defects and to generate
quality reports of the fabric inspected so that the fabric can be delivered to
the processing department as per the present requirement or demand. It
stores the grey goods in the roll form, until they are issued to the
processing. The major operations carried out in the Greyroom department
are:
1. Bale Opening
Motive:
Before taking the fabric for the process it is necessary to verify all
the relevant information and document.
Fabric Check:
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Procedure:
The bales are brought manually from the godown by keeping the
bales in the hand trolley for opening the bales for verification such
as fold, width, length, weight and ends for picks.
Precautions:
- To keep in mind that iron strike should not damage the fabric
while opening the bales and also no injury should happen to the
workers.
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2. Grey Room Checking And Rejection
Motive:
Before the fabric is given for stitching the grey goods have to be
checked, inspected on the table for checking of oil stains, water
marks, etc. to maintain quality.
Procedure:
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The Almach woven fabric inspection machines have the following
features:
- Inspection table is laminated with adequate number of tube-lights
provided beneath and above the glass with variable lighting
arrangement.
- Push button controls are given on the drive box on the right hand
side.
- Cloth can run in FORWARD as well as in REVERSE direction.
- Fabric runs in face in/face out manner.
- Special jogging or inching device is provided to stop the machine
at the right location of the defect.
- Soft start and instantaneous stoppage of fabric can be done.
- Automatic stop arrangement to stop the machine at the end of
the fabric piece.
- Bow bar has been provided in the batching device to open out
the creases in the fabric.
- Perfectly aligned straight edges in tunes of 1 to 2mm in the
model with automatic edge guiding system. The device comes
with an electronically
- Operated motorized screw type arrangement, thus doing away
with the requirements such as compressed air etc.
- Perfect tension during the flow of the fabric is provided using
guide roll assembly, thus no hassles of nip rolls occur.
- Meter Counter is installed in front of the platform top for easy
reading.
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Precautions:
- Report about the defective goods like cuts, hales and water
marks etc. must be reported to the Supervisor and Head of the
Department of Grey Department.
3. Stitching
Motive:
Procedure:
Different types of cloth are sorted out; stitching of the same type of
fabric is carried out at the same time. Before stitching each piece is
checked for lot number, width so that at any stage in the process
pieces can be identified.
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Precautions:
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AMERICAN CHECKING SYSTEM
The American checking system or 4 point system has received the widest
acceptance in the textile industry. In this system, cloth defects are given
penalty points, depending upon the severity of defects. Sanghi Textiles Pvt.
Ltd. operates in 4 point system.
Defect Classification:
Size of Defects Penalty Points
1 inch to 3 inches 1 point
3 inches to 6 inches 2 points
6 inches to 9 inches 3 points
9 inches and above 4 points
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The total penalty points per 100 yards of fabric should not be more
than 20 points.
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Before stitching, same width of
Stitching Variation fabric is to be segregated for
Width variation of fabric
Selvedge to selvedge stitching to avoid creases while
processing open width fabrics.
CASE 2:-
GREY ROOM
OPERATIONS
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AT
WELSPUN
WELSPUN INDIA
Welspun India limited a part of the Welspun group had its beginning in
1993 as terry towel manufacturing unit at Vapi.
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With licensed life style brands in home textiles, the companys desire to
expand its business on high value products and distribution channels as
part of its overall risk free strategy.
Company has also entered into the domestic market with the brand name
Spaces, offering holistic home textile solution. Spaces has a retail
presence in over 800 stores.
Location : The Anjar unit is located in the important vicinity of Kandla port.
Fiber type :-The main fiber spun in this unit is cotton and its blends along
with some other special fibers which include polyester, modal, bamboo,
static, etc. The cotton is mainly blended with polyester in the ratio of 3:2
depending on the end use and requirement.
Fabric type :-The unit many produces woven terry towels i.e. uncut pile
weaving.
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GREY FOLDING DEPARTMENT
The Main purpose of the Grey Folding Department is to inspect the grey
fabric for weaving defects and to generate quality reports of the fabric
inspected. It also prepares the fabric for delivery to the processing
department as per the present requirement or demand. It stores the grey
goods in the roll form, until they are issued to the processing. It also mends
all the repairable defects prior to rolling & storage.
provided beneath and above the glass with variable lighting arrangement.
Push button controls are given on the drive box on the right hand
side.
Bow bar has been provided in the batching device to open out the
creases in the fabric.
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Perfectly aligned straight edges in tunes of 1 to 2mm in our model
with automatic edge guiding system.
Perfect tension during the flow of the fabric is provided using guide
roll assembly, thus no hassles of nip rolls.
Fabric inspection
There are two such machines which are used for the inspection of
the grey fabric. After the inspection has been done the grey fabric is
now wound on to A-frames from doff rolls by the help of the batching
machines.done for easy transportation of the fabric roll in the
processing unit.
There are three batching machines in the grey folding department.
The fabric roll on the A-frame is then passed on to the processing
unit.
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Weaving Defects
The grey fabric inspection takes place mainly to check the following
weaving defects:
Crack
Appearance too few picks per inch in few areas
Cause
Responsibility of weaver
a) More care required while pick finding
Float
Appearance distortion in weft direction generally accompanies with
warp break
Cause
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a) Fluff or knot behind reed
Wrong drawing
Appearance irregular pattern warp way in the cloth
Leno problem
Appearance leno end not holding correctly
Cause
b) Clean off
c) Adjust tension
d) Call mechanic
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Missing end
Appearance warp line; thin gap in warp direction
Cause
a) Fluff in drop wires
d) Electrical fault
b) Inform mechanic
c) Replace it
d) Inform supervisor
Design mistake
Appearance incorrect design
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Cause wrong design put in microprocessor
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Wrong weft
Appearance incorrect weft
Slough off
Appearance loose coils of weft in the fabric
Pull terry
Appearance pile ends are pulled / cut across the fabric width
Reverse terry
Appearance - pile formation in plain portion of the cloth
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Starting mark
Appearance thick or thin places at the start of the loom
Defective selvedge
Appearance no fringes from cutters, cloth may be cut
Defective border
Appearance warp line
Oil stain
Appearance warp line corresponding to the temple
Shade variation
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Appearance selvedge ends weaving incorrectly
Reed mark
Appearance visible line warp way in the cloth
Cause
a) Weaver error
c) Flag fixer
Cause
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a) Broken filling not completely removed
Responsibility of weaver
a) Weavers fault
b) Flag fixer
Emery mark
Cause
Damaged terry
Cause
Responsibility of weaver
a) Weavers fault
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b) Stop loom, flag supervisor
CASE 3
GREY ROOM
OPERATIONS
AT
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ALPS
INDUSTRIES
ALPS INDUSTRIES
Mission
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To achieve a leading position in environment friendly textile
products.
To create top-of-the-mind brand recall for its products.
To pursue innovation of new products
To strengthen market reach in both the domestic and international
markets so as to fully capture emerging opportunities.
To reach the customers directly for improved responsiveness to
changing customer preferences.
To introduce own brands for home furnishing products in the
international market.
Position, both in the domestic as well as the international market.
Fiber type:- Fibers mainly produced and processed are cotton and
polyester
Fabric type:-
the main type of
fabric that
undergoes
treatments are f
poly cott
PROCESS
FLOW
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Grey room operations at Alps
international
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The fabric is placed on grey checking table having a glass plate in wooden
frame, with 4 tube lights behind it for good illumination, which contains a
meter and the fabric is pulled beneath the meter automatically by machine
and the length checked is recorded. White paper is stuck at the back of the
glass to improve visibility. The faults are marked by tying a red thread at
the selvage of the place of defect so that it can be easily identified while
mending. Also, all defects are noted in detail, in a register.
DEFECTS
Fabric defects can be classified into two groups:
Avoidable and unavoidable major and minor
Mendable and unmendable
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Pick bar: A band running across the full width of the cloth due to
difference in appearance from its adjacent surface due to difference
in pick spacing. Principal causes are mechanical faults in the loom
such as faulty geating in the take-up motion, beam collars are loose,
cracked, broken or bentbeam gudgeons.
Broken pattern: This defect may be due to wrong drawing of
threads, inserting a pick in the wrong shed, incorrect lifting of warp
threads.
Broken pick: A pick missing from a portion of the width of the fabric.
A frequent cause is rough shuttle-eyes which snag the weft. Poor
winding may cause the yarn to slough and catch, or a pin inserted in
the shuttle improperly may cause the yarn to snag and break. Rough
shuttles may cut the yarn, especially if the side of the shuttle has
been worn. Rough shuttle box sides also may snag the weft yarn.
Sharp weft fork prongs often cut the weft yarn.
Cracks: A narrow streak running parallel to the weft due to the
pronounced opening between two adjacent yarns. Any loom
condition that permits erratic operation of the sley or any of its parts
will create cracks in the fabric. For example, worn or loose crank
shaft or crank arm bearings will cause the sley to operate erratically,
as will also a loose crank arm. A loosed reed, that is, one that has
excess freedom in the sley, will also cause this defect.
Cut weft: This defect is caused by the use of weak weft with a
strong warp. It shows as a pin hole in the finished fabric. Sharp
reeds and tight selvedges are also responsible for these short
lengths of yarn that extend from the selvedge.
Curled selvedge: Rolling or turning over selvedge due to incorrect
balance of cloth structure between body and the selvedge or
excessive weft tension.
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Missing ends/ ends out: A most common fault, it is characterized
by a gap of one or more warp ends in the fabrics.
Reed marks: A ready cloth shows irregular spacing between groups
of warp yarns across the width of the fabric. This defect may be
caused by a damaged or defective reed or too late shedding.
Shuttle marks: Widthwise marks due to abrasion of warp yarns by
the shuttle. Caused by sheds not adjusted properly by being too
high or too low this causing the shuttle to be thrown in a crooked
manner. Shuttles not timed properly, this entering the shed too early
or too late, may also cause shuttle marks.
Floats stitches: A place in the fabric where warp and weft escape
the required interlacement. Main causes: entanglement of warp
threads due to broken end or breakage of wire healds on running
loom.
Stains: Majority of the stains occur at loom shed only, due to oil,
grease, rust, dirt, soil, carbon particles in air, sweat, crayon stains,
box mark etc. they can be accounted to poor material handling and
cleaning practices. Certain stains can be removed by solvents, but it
involves additional cost.
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MENDING & FOLDING
GREY FOLDING
After mending the fabric is folded again into rolls to make commercial
packages and sometimes for further processing. Three grey folding
machines are used in Alps for this purpose. ALMAC Vadodara folding
inspection machine is used, 1mx4m dimension.
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Classification of major and minor defects
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CONCLUSION
Grey room operations are the primay stage for the wet
processing in the textile industry.
This is an important stage at which proper inspection should
be carried out.
A wrong decision at this stage can be disastrous, as any
amount of intervention later cannot solve the problem.
These inspections help in obtaining the desired properties in
the later stages of the wet processing.
The grey room checking should be done at minute levels with
high precision so as to avoid any glitches or missing of any
faults or defects.
Grey room operations also help in the mending of various
defects so as to avoid losses
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
Textiles by Corbmann
WEBSITES
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www.springsamsolutions.com
search engines
www.google.com
www.wikipedia.com
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