Professional Documents
Culture Documents
If you are thinking about establishing some bee hives as part of your garden, farm,
homestead or smallholding, it is worth spending some time thinking about the type of bee
keeper you want to become.
Honeybees cannot be domesticated in the sense that cows or pigs or sheep have been.
Despite contact with us throughout our time on Earth and many attempts to breed them
to suit our needs, they remain essentially unchanged. Their unique mating behaviour and
reproductive cycle ensure that diversity and adaptability will continue to be the dominant
themes in their evolution.
In the context of the wider environment, pollination is by far the most important activity
engaged in by bees, albeit as a byproduct of their foraging activities. It is their intimate
involvement in the reproductive mechanism of the flowering plants that provides us with
the possibility of a varied diet and has thereby supported our own evolutionary process.
As I see it, our main job as 'bee keepers' is to be observant and to understand our bees to
the best of our ability. We cannot fully enter into their world, but we have an unique
opportunity to gain a greater appreciation of it. And once we begin to understand how
deeply embedded they are within nature, and what sensitive indicators they are of
disturbances in the natural world, we may find ourselves unable to imagine a functional
planet without them. So before launching headlong into the keeping of bees, I would urge
you to take a deep breath and consider what it is that really interests you about them, as
this will give you some important information about how best to proceed. An hour or two
of careful deliberation at this stage could save you a lot of time, a good deal of trouble and
a pile of money.
To help you decide where you stand on the 'beekeeping spectrum', I have identified six
types of bee keeping, three of which fall on what I call the 'conventional' and three on the
'natural' side.
1. Honey farming
Productionfocused; intensive management of bees for maximum honey yield or for
migratory pollination. Typically involves routine sugar or HFCS feeding and prophylactic
medications, including antibiotics and miticides. Queens are usually raised using
artificial insemination and replaced frequently sometimes more than once per season
while drones are suppressed and swarming is prevented by the excision of queen cells or
by splitting colonies. Usually involves some movement of hives, sometimes over large
distances – especially in the USA. This is a business run for profit, linked closely to
agriculture, but as with other farming work, there will be good years and bad.
2. Sideline beekeeping
A smallerscale, parttime version of honey farming. The aim is profit, but your livelihood
does not entirely depend on it.
3. Association beekeeping
A ‘miniature’ version of commercial or sideline beekeeping, as promoted and taught by
most conventional bee keepers' associations. Usually the intention is still to produce the
maximum amount of honey, but from only a small number of hives and not necessarily
for financial reward. Queens are often marked and clipped and in most other respects the
methods ape those of the honey farmer.
4. Balanced beekeeping
The emphasis is on bee welfare and facilitating the natural behaviour of bees, with the
intention of providing conditions in which bees may find their own solutions. Restrained
taking of honey and other bee products only when plentiful and appropriate. Beekeepers
may or may not use mite treatments or medications, but if they do, they use nontoxic,
naturallyderived substances that support bee health rather than target specific
disorders. Queens are openmated, splits optional and swarming may or may not be
managed. Provision is usually made for inspections, which may or may not be regularly
undertaken.
5. Natural beekeeping
Similar to 'balanced beekeeping', with heavier emphasis on 'donothing' approaches.
Little or no management is attempted, and rarely are splits made or queenrearing
carried out beyond what the bees do themselves. Hives are rarely opened; routine
inspections are discouraged; honey is rarely taken; other hive products barely at all.
6. Bee Conservation
Bees for their own sake; no honey taken and no inspections, treatments or feeding;
‘Darwinian’ approach to survival. Bees do as they please and take their chances with the
weather and forage. Beefriendly plants may be incorporated in a conservationstyle
scheme, which may include other pollinator species.
While I have shown these as distinct categories, they should really be thought of as a
continuous spectrum, from most to least invasive and from most to least 'production
focused'. It is also possible at least, in theory for a honey producer to operate apiaries
along 'Darwinian' lines with no medication and relying on survivor stock but in practise,
serious honey production relies on quite intensive bee management.
You may notice that in the above list I have not mentioned any particular types of hive.
While it is true that certain designs are more suitable for specific applications, it is
possible to be a 'balanced beekeeper' using a conventional frame hive, and in France and
elsewhere there are honey farmers using Warré hives a vertical variant of the top bar
hive, which was designed for outright honey production. It would also be perfectly
possible to be an 'interfering' beekeeper in a top bar hive, so I don't think it is useful to
categorize beekeepers purely by the shape of their hives or even their personality traits:
it is their intention and attitude toward their bees that matters.
The Origins of 'Balanced
Beekeeping'
If you have read my other books
and are familiar with my
methods, you may be wondering
why I appear to be creating a
category of beekeeping
apparently out of thin air just as
we were getting used to using the
term 'natural beekeeping'. Where
did this 'balanced beekeeping'
thing come from?
The term 'natural beekeeping'
was to my knowledge first used
on our online forum around
2008, and was discussed at a
meeting of about a dozen
interested people at the offices of
Bees for Development in
Monmouth, Wales, in 2009. At
that meeting, we were trying to
find a generic term for what we
were all attempting in slightly
different ways to achieve, and to
differentiate ourselves from
conventional attitudes to
beekeeping, as widely taught in
John Hodgson of Todmorden, West Yorkshire, with his newly-built
top bar hive. the UK and elsewhere. While we
all recognized the paradoxical
nature of the term, we also felt that it encouraged discussion and drew attention to the
distinctions we were keen to make. No doubt, similar discussions were taking place
among other groups of people, unknown to us.
Since that meeting, there has been an ongoing discussion about what 'natural
beekeeping' actually means and just how 'natural' we should be, and what is, by
implication, ‘unnatural’ about conventional methods. This conversation has generated
further distinctions and it has become clear that some hardline 'natural' beekeepers
have come down on the 'no interventions' side of the fence, preferring to observe bees and
keep them in containers not designed to be opened very often or at all, in some cases
while others want to keep bees in a way that still allows for some measure of swarm
control, compliance with inspection requirements and with the possibility of the removal
of some honey when plentiful.
In short, 'natural beekeeping' seems to have shifted towards the 'conservation' end of the
spectrum and created something of a gap between itself and what I have called
‘association beekeeping’, as promoted by conventional associations. This is the gap in
which, I suggest, 'balanced beekeeping' happily sits, and as I coined this term for a
purpose, I had better explain myself.
'Balanced beekeeping' accommodates the use of a wide range of equipment and methods,
while preferring the 'natural' over the 'conventional'. It is a style of beekeeping for those
who are willing to think through their interactions with bees and not merely follow
instructions.
Balanced beekeeping is for people who want to do more than just observe bees: they want
to be bee 'keepers' rather than just bee 'havers'; they want a more intimate relationship
with their bees than is allowed by never opening the hive, while understanding that this
should always be done mindfully and not too often. They want to keep healthy bees
without resorting to medications, but they are happy for the bee inspector to call
occasionally and check their charges for signs of disease, if that is required. If a hive
becomes badtempered and begins to cause a nuisance to neighbours, they are willing and
able to replace the queen if appropriate, or move the hive to another location. When
combs become black with age and propolis, they can easily remove them. If a hive
becomes honeybound, they can recognize the condition and rectify it. They know how to
raise a few extra queens should it become necessary and they can tell when a colony
needs some extra feeding and can provide it: they recognize that beekeeping is both a
science and an art and constantly strive to improve their skills. Above all, they are
constantly and deliberately learning their craft.
Balanced beekeeping is about working with the natural impulses and habits of
the bees, respecting the integrity of the brood chamber, leaving them ample
honey stores over winter and generally arranging things in order to cause their
bees as little stress and disturbance as possible, while being willing and able to
intervene when the bees need help or when their activities are causing a
nuisance to others.
So the point of balance is somewhere between doing too much and doing nothing; being
overcontrolling and letting nature take its course; being a beefarmer and a beewatcher.
Compared to the more 'honeyfocused' approaches, more time is spent observing the bees
and some operations may need to be performed a little more often: honey harvesting, for
example, is likely to be done by taking smaller amounts over a period of weeks or months,
rather than the typical allatonce, smashandgrab raid practised by honey farmers and
most amateurs.
If your main aim is to obtain the absolute maximum amount of honey from your hives,
regardless of all other considerations, then you will by now have realized that you are
reading the wrong book. Not that this style of beekeeping cannot produce decent amounts
of honey – it certainly can – but the emphasis here is on sustainability and keeping
healthy bees, rather than setting records for honey crops, which inevitably has a cost to
the welfare of the bees. The essence of ‘balance’ is to work well within the limits of a
natural system. We do not aim to extract every possible drop of honey from a hive. We
respect the bees' need to eat their own stores especially over the winter and regard
sugar syrup as an inferior supplement to be given only when bees are short of their own
food, due to prolonged bad weather or other causes.
A Mutually Beneficial
Relationship
As beekeepers, our natural allies
are gardeners, organic growers
and smallholders and especially
those who understand and use
the principles of permaculture,
which can also be thought of as
the principles of nature.
A mutually beneficial and
sustainable relationship with
our bees must be based on such
a truly holistic attitude: we need
to learn more about how the
colony works as a complete,
living entity and the manifold
László Csuja demonstrating his hexagonal Gedde hive in Kisgyőr,
ways in which it interacts with Hungary. His design is constructed in layered units,with each
its environment, with us and straight section of timber of an identical pattern. His hive is
with other living things. For too managed in a similar way to the Warré.
long we have been locked into an unbalanced, oldfashioned, reductionist approach,
dealing with bees as if they were mere machines created solely for our benefit, instead of
highlyevolved, wild creatures, with which we are privileged to work.
I believe that keeping bees for honey should be smallscale, local and carried out in the
spirit of respect for the bees and appreciation of the vital part they play in our agriculture
and in the natural world. I disapprove of largescale, commercial beekeeping because it
inevitably leads to a 'factory farming' mentality in the way bees are treated, handled and
robbed. I believe we should think of honey much less as a food and much more as a
medicine, and adjust our consumption accordingly. We should not expect to see
supermarket shelves piled high with jars of honey from around the world, as if it were
jam or peanut butter. Honey should be valued and prized as the product of innumerable
beemiles and the assimilation of uncountable drops of priceless nectar from myriad
flowers.
Honeybees love to feed on a multiplicity of flowers, as can be easily demonstrated by the
variety of different pollens they will collect if sited in a wild place with diverse flora.
Transporting them to where there is only a single crop of, say, oilseed rape (Brassica
napa) within reach causes an unnatural concentration within the hive of a single pollen,
which is, I dare to presume, lacking in some of the elements they require for full health.
It may also contain small amounts of pesticides, which may or may not intrinsically be
enough to fatally damage the forager bee’s nervous system, but when gathered by many
thousands of workers and concentrated into the confined space of the hive may easily
reach lethal levels. Yet migratory beekeeping is practised in just this way on an
industrial scale in some countries, especially the USA. Clearly, this needs to change.
Protecting Biodiversity
An important aspect of 'balance' is to ensure that our activities as beekeepers do not have
a detrimental impact on other species.
Honeybees evolved to live in colonies distributed across the land according to the
availability of food and shelter. Forcing 50, 100 or more colonies to share the territory
that at most half a dozen would naturally occupy is bound to lead to concentrations of
diseases and parasites, and may also threaten the forage and thus the very existence of
other important pollinating insects, such as bumblebees, mason bees and the many other
species that benefit both wild and cultivated plants. This means that we have a
responsibility not to overstock any location and to create habitat for other species, which
may take the form of 'bee hotels' or simply piles of old logs.
Anything that is done to improve the environment for honeybees will also be beneficial to
other pollinators. Having a deep appreciation of the interconnectedness of all living
things, and an understanding of the impact our own species has had and is still having,
leads us inevitably to the conclusion that we have a responsibility towards everything
that walks or crawls or slithers on the earth or beneath it, or that swims in the sea or
flies in the air, and shares this precious planet with us.
As bee keepers, we have a special responsibility to also be 'earthkeepers'.
Backyard Beekeeping
Balanced beekeeping is smallscale by definition. It is 'backyard beekeeping' by people
who want to have a few hives at the bottom of their garden, on their roof or in their own
or a neighbour's field.
Probably you want to produce modest quantities of honey for your family and friends,
with, perhaps, a surplus to sell at the gate or in the local market. You will have by
products; most obviously beeswax, which you can make into useful stuff like candles, skin
creams, wood polish and leather treatments, so beekeeping could become the core of a
profitable sideline.
You are interested in bees for their own sake, I hope. If not yet, I have no doubt that you
will be once you have looked after a few hives for a season or two.
You may have been to an open day hosted by your local beekeepers’ association, or read a
book, or perhaps you have taken the plunge already and bought a secondhand hive and
captured a swarm or obtained a 'nuc'. You may have browsed through the catalogues of
beekeeping suppliers, wondering at the enormous number of gadgets and pieces of
equipment you seem to need and wondering where you would put it all and how you
would pay for it. In this case, you may be thankful to know that my mission is to show
you that, (a) beekeeping does not have to be as complicated as some would make it out to
be and (b) you need none of the stuff in those glossy beekeepers' supplies catalogues in
order to keep healthy, happy and productive bees. If you want to enjoy your beekeeping
and not have it become an expensive chore, my advice is to keep it simple, sustainable
and smallscale. Complications in the form of unnecessary gadgets quickly add to your
costs and the amount of physical and mental space taken up by what should be a simple
activity.
The system I will describe here is about as simple as beekeeping can get, while
maintaining provision for occasional inspections, comfortable overwintering and non
destructive harvesting. Everything you need is in one box – the beehive – which you can
make yourself if you follow the instructions in Balanced Beekeeping I.
There are too many 'books of rules' in the world already and I have no desire to add
another one. Instead, in The Barefoot Beekeeper, I proposed three principles, which form
the basis of my approach to beekeeping. You are welcome to adopt them if they suit you,
or you may want to think about creating some of your own.
3. The bees know what they are doing: our job is to listen to them and
provide the optimum conditions for their well-being, both inside and
outside the hive.
According to those who knew him, one of Brother Adam's favourite sayings was, “Listen
to the bees and let them guide you.”
In the literal sense, much can be learned by the attentive beekeeper by listening to the
sounds the bees make and learning to differentiate their possible meanings. The
differences in pitch and volume between the wing notes of a bee in defensive mode and
another that is merely curious is one of the first and most useful distinctions to learn.
Then there is the brief 'roar' when a hive is tapped with a knuckle, which gives you
information about the approximate number of inhabitants and their general state of
alertness. If the roar continues beyond a few seconds and develops into an overall
hubbub, suspect that the colony is without a queen. A healthy hive of docile bees going
about their business has a characteristic, contented hum, which is the most pleasant and
relaxing sound a beekeeper hopes to hear. Of course, Brother Adam was also indicating
that we should pay attention to the needs of the bees and plan our work accordingly and
not by our own mechanical clocks.
There is much to be learned by both literal and metaphorical 'listening': we can
continuously develop our perception by spending more time observing bees.
If sound principles are assimilated as the foundation of our beekeeping practice, we do
not need a 'book of rules' to answer every little question that arises. No such book could
cover every eventuality, but a set of sound principles can remind us where to look for the
answer.
Philip Chandler
All books by Phil Chandler are available at Lulu.com
More information, much of it free, on the author's web site
biobees.com