Breaching

A part of room clearing is the ability to gain access quickly to the rooms to be
cleared. Breaching techniques vary based on the type of construction
encountered and the types of munitions available to the breaching element.
Techniques range from simple mechanical breaching to complex, specialized
demolitions. If possible, conduct the breach to allow the team to continue
movement without waiting at the breach (entry) point. Deception should be used
to confuse the enemy as to the location of the primary entry point. This can be
achieved by using stun grenades in an area other than the actual breach/entry
point.

Opening of Doors if not Locked

If the team knows that the door isn't locked. One of two simple orders are
used "pull and go" or "Push and go".
A closed door is considered locked in all cases when a breacher is present,
assuming the breacher has the means available to defeat the door.

Pull and go.

When the team reaches a door Operator ❶ gives the order "pull and go". On this
one operator steps out of the stack, moves to the the door, and pulls it open
when operator ❶ signals "GO", by nodding his head three times. This could also
be done by operator ❶, second man in the stack then becomes operator ❶.

Push and go.

This is done the same way as "pull and go" except that the door opens inwards. In
most cases operator ❶ opens the door himself.

Experienced teams do this automatically without any commands.

Mechanical Breaching
The mechanical breach requires increased physical exertion by one or more
soldiers using hand tools such as axes, saws, crowbars, hooligan tools, or
sledgehammers. The mechanical breach is not a preferred primary breaching
method because it can be time-consuming and defeat the element of surprise.
Use mechanical breaching as a backup to a ballistic or explosive breach.

Dynamic Entry gear is electrically non-conductive, features the Sure-Grip handle

system , and is resistant to 100,000 volts AC.

Dynamic Entry gear demonstration

Ballistic breach
A useful method of breaching is the shotgun ballistic breach for forced entry of
standard doors. Use a 12-gauge shotgun loaded with buckshot or slugs to breach
most standard doors quickly. When done properly the shotgun breach requires
only a few seconds. The two standard techniques of shotgun breaching are the
doorknob breach and the hinge breach. When attempting either technique, the
gunner is announcing his presence by using the shotgun and is completely
exposed to fire through the door. Therefore, exposure time must be minimized
and the operator ❶ must be ready to gain entry and return fire as soon as
possible. While holding the stock of the shotgun in the pocket of his shoulder, the
gunner places the muzzle tightly against the door, and aims down at a 45-degree
angle. If the shotgun muzzle is not held tightly against the door, splatter may
occur that could affect friendly troops. Also, buckshot and rifled slugs can over
penetrate doors and may kill or wound occupants in the room

Doorknob Breach
For the doorknob breach, the aim point is a spot halfway between the doorknob
and the frame, not at the doorknob itself. The gunner fires two quick shots in the
same location, ensuring that the second shot is aimed as carefully as the first.
Weak locks may fly apart with the first shot, but the gunner should always fire
twice. Some locks that appear to be blown apart have parts still connected that
will delay entry. If the lock is not defeated by the second shot, the gunner repeats
the procedure.

Hinge Breach
The hinge breach technique is performed much the same as the doorknob breach,
except the gunner aims at the hinges. He fires three shots per hinge. The first at
the middle, then at the top and bottom He fires all shots from less than an inch
away from the hinge. Because the hinges are often hidden from view, the hinge
breach is more difficult. Regardless of which technique the gunner uses,
immediately after he fires, he kicks the door in or pulls it out. He then pulls the
shotgun barrel sharply upward and quickly turns away from the doorway to signal
that the breach point has been cleared. This rapid clearing of the doorway allows
the following man in the fire team a clear shot at any enemy who may be blocking
the immediate breach site.

Only use small arms (5.56) as a ballistic breach on doorknobs and hinges as a last
resort.

Do not attempt to open the door by hand. If the door is locked, this action will
alert any combatants inside of the room of your intentions and possibly expose
the breacher to fire through the doorway.

Explosive entry
The use of explosive charges to breach doors or walls on buildings and aircraft is
an excellent SOP. Although unfortunately, because of a lack of training,
understanding, expertise, and the cost involved, explosive entry is not a common
standard for entry teams. The two prime advantages of explosive method of entry
(MOE) are the almost guaranteed entry and the stun effect on the occupants in
the room. Everyone should be stunned to a certain degree, making it easier to
dominate and control the room. However, it is not recommended that the
breaching charge be placed on doors or walls leading into the actual room where
the hostages are being held.
Explosive MOE has been perfected to such a degree that the secondary
fragmentation from the door and the risk of over-pressure injuries to the
hostages have been all but eliminated. Explosives should only be handled by
experienced bomb technician, EOD personnel, or specially trained operators.
Breaching charges come in several forms from factory made linear shaped cutting
charges to improvised systems made from Detonation-Cord. All are usually
command detonated with an electrical firing system and blasting cap. During
explosive MOE training, the team must be protected with Nomex hoods and
uniforms, boots, goggles and ear muffs, entry vests and gloves. If the door must
be breached by more conventional non-explosive methods, e.g. battering ram,
boot or crow bar, then stun grenades should be dropped through broken
windows to temporarily disorient the occupants. Always target two or more entry
points for breaching in case one is too heavily barricaded to allow entry.

BREACHING INTERIOR WALLS AND PARTITIONS

Interior walls generally require much less explosive to create a satisfactory breach
than do exterior, load-bearing walls. An easily fabricated silhouette charge can
further reduce the amount of explosive needed to breach plywood, Sheetrock, or
light plaster walls. It can also be used to breach wooden or metal doors. This
charge can be emplaced quickly and creates a hole large enough for a man to
move through.

(1) Tape two E-type silhouette targets, or similar stiff cardboard, together. To
make the charge easier to carry, it can be built to fold in the middle. Rounding the
corners makes the charge easier to handle.
(2) Place detonation cord or flexible linear-shaped charge (FLSC) around the edges
of the silhouettes, leaving a 6-inch tail for priming. Secure the cord to the
silhouette using sturdy tape (for example, "100-mph tape"). Tape several small
dowels or other materials at various places around the silhouette if using FLSC.
This provides the necessary standoff distance to ensure the maximum shaped
charge effect.

(3) Place three or four strips of heavy-duty, double-sided contact tape on the
front of the silhouette from top to bottom. Construct a sturdy pocket for a brace
stick in the appropriate position on the back of the silhouette.

(4) Pull the covering off the double-sided tape and place the charge against the
wall at knee height, bracing it if necessary. Prime the charge, take cover, and
detonate.

DOOR-BREACHING CHARGES

Several different field-expedient charges can be used to breach interior or

exterior doors . Among these are the general-purpose charge, flexible linear
charge, and doorknob charge. All can be made ahead of time and are simple,
compact, lightweight, and easy to place.

CAUTION. Any time explosive charges are used to breach doors, the knobs, locks
and hinges made of steel and metal can become lethal projectiles.
General-Purpose Charge
The general-purpose charge is the most useful preassembled charge for breaching
a door or other barrier. As its name implies, it is useful not only for door
breaching, but it can also cut mild steel chain and destroy captured enemy
equipment.

(1) Start building the general-purpose charge with a length of detonation cord
about 2 feet long. Using another length of detonation cord, tie two Uliknots
around the 2-foot long cord. The Uliknots must have a minimum of six wraps and
be loose enough for them to slide along the main line, referred to as Uli Slider.
Trim any excess cord from the Uliknots and secure them with tape, if necessary.

(2) Cut a block of C4 explosive to a 2-inch square. Tape one slider knot to each
side of the C4 block, leaving the length of detonation cord free to slide through
the knots.

(3) To breach a standard door, place the top loop of the charge over the
doorknob. Slide the uli knots taped to the C4 so that the charge is tight against
the knob. Prime the loose ends of the detonation cord with a MDI firing system
and detonate. To cut mild steel chain, place the loop completely around the chain
link to form a girth hitch. Tighten the loop against the link by sliding the Uliknots.

Rubber Band Charge

The rubber band charge is another easily fabricated lightweight device that can be
used to remove the locking mechanism or doorknob from wooden or light metal
doors, or to break a standard-size padlock at the shackle.
(1) Cut a 10-inch piece of detonation cord and tie an overhand knot in one end.
Using another piece of detonation cord, tie a Uliknot with at least eight wraps
around the first length of cord. Slide the Uliknot tightly up against the Overhand
knot. Secure it in place with either tape or string. Loop a strong rubber band
around the base of the Uliknot tied around the detonation cord. Tie an Overhand
knot at the other end of the cord to form a pigtail for priming the charge.

(2) Attach the charge to the doorknob (or locking mechanism) by putting the
loose end of the rubber band around the knob. The charge should be placed
between the knob and the doorframe. This places the explosive over the bolt that
secures the door to the frame.

Flexible Linear Charge

One of the simplest field-expedient charges for breaching wooden doors is the
flexible linear charge. It can be made in almost any length, and it can be rolled up
and carried until needed. It is effective against hollow-core, particle-filled, and
solid wood doors. When detonated, the flexible linear charge cuts through the
door near the hinges.

(1) Lay out a length of double-sided contact tape with the topside adhesive
exposed. Place the necessary number of strands of detonation cord down the
center of the double-sided tape, pressing them firmly in place. Military detonation
cord has 50 grains of explosives per foot and there are 7,000 grains in a pound.
Most residential doors are 80 inches tall and commercial doors are 84 inches tall.
This must be considered when calculating the quantities of explosives,
overpressure and MSDs. For hollow-core doors, use a single strand. For particle-
filled doors, use two strands, and for solid wood doors use three. If the type doors
encountered are unknown, use three strands. One of the strands must be cut
about a foot longer than the others and should extend past the end of the
double-sided tape. This forms a pigtail where the initiating system is attached
once the charge is in place.

(2) Cover the strands of detonation cord and all the exposed portions of the
double-sided tape with either sturdy single-sided tape or another length of
double-sided tape. Roll the charge, starting at the pigtail, with the double-sided
tape surface that is to be placed against the door on the inside.

(3) At the breach site, place the charge straight up and down against the door
tightly. If the charge is too long, angle it to best fit the door or use the excess to
defeat the possibility of a door return at the top of the door sometimes but not
always visible from the outside by exposed bolts. If it is too short, place it so it
covers at least half of the door's height. Prime and fire the charge from the
bottom.