5.

개발프로세스 이해
Running팀 / 서정황 차장
 New Product
Creation Process
- Team Interaction
SP12 Air Max 2010 +
FA12 NIKE LUNARHYPERWORKOUT

Running
W’s
SU12 NK Free 4.0 V2 SU12 NIKE FREE ADVANTAGE

NSW T&F
ZM Rival D7
SU12 NIKE KUKINI
FREE

SP12 AIR MAX GRIFFEY FURY ZM SUPERFLY R3

Footwear structure
 Product integrity

Wear test planning Athletes insight

Product Testing

Innovation Engineering
Best practice
New technology
Development Technical support
Design, construction concept
Balancing design concept
High percentage in category adoption and manufacturability

Costing Material
Setting Target FOB Seasonal material pallet
Creating budget Category MPS
Cost options Material trend
 COSTING

SCHEDULE MATERIALS/TECHNICAL ISSUES

[Delivery] [Quality]

A successful project:
Meet Target FOB/Margin
Meet target Duty/considered score
Meet RFC schedule
No technical/manufacturing/fit issues
 MAKETTING

BVTN
DESIGNER
DEVELOPER

PCC Offshore Mass

Dev. production
 CEO
본사조직도(20110810) 정환일 회장 (810)
조방래 부회장(830)

품질혁신팀 경영기획실 SM&S

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(813) (362) (829) (778) (371) (773) (914) (354) (906) (338) (838) (851) (779) (959) (480) (866) (528) (347) (879) (857) (853) (839) 경영정보
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강민호 심정보 박경단 김준호 최상학 장선욱 오선이 이은희 문은희 김혜령 정원식 이찬희 차장 차장 박만기 최광종 하솔잎 김재익 김한수 김한수 김현석 김현수 (815)
(727) (341) (831) (835) (865) (915) ( 925 ) (928) (430) (897) (431) (307) 정윤현 이건탁 (311) (844) (527) (948) (861) (861) (332) (840) 010-6788-6854
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김혜정 권혁민 대리 김준석 노해승 백진주 조한미 조지형 김보영 이소영 사원 과장 김영삼 강민승 박영민 황보준 정윤숙 오민호 차장 김은경
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총무.안전 대리 017-520-7969 부장 차장 대리 사원 사원 사원 과장 010-9333-2194 010-4593-3633 차장 대리 Phy lon/Out s ole 과장 대리 과장 019-523-0318 신입사원
부장 김미영 김성길 구원희 김상길 박지혜 김혜은 마영균 한혜은 사원 대리 이영호 임도현 대리 강동석 한지은 정경은 대리 정대웅
백승만 (821) (411) (873) (933) (845) (355) (397) (911) 박소연 김경수 (434) (848) 김용진 (722) (930) (858) 변용근 (000)
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과장 정환정 김도경 박혜영 서광호 김진호 김영근 김종구 문석준 김회근 박경숙 (860) 강수용 전민정 전수현 사원
박도주 (822) (340) (000) (932) (493) (366) (916) (339) (312) (322) 010-2806-3661 (979) (335) (927) 이주원
(809) 010-8539-5438 010-5064-1780 010-7154-4101 010-3860-7387 011-9502-2294 011-589-6011 017-556-3966 0107118-1197 010-5378-7139 010-6308-8465 과장 016-870-4891 010-8755-5025 010-7295-3243 (852)
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주임 신철호 김해진 이상용 이길호 윤경봉 전경훈 방문식 김태봉 강성욱 공누리 (871) 이혜림 황인규 차정화 사원
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010-2494- (446) (426) (497) (394) 010-9244-4862 (343) (393) (746) 강명환
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사원 이주성 조민우 곽성길 김나연 장성지 윤현정 서현미 조인섭 AUTO/MESH 김태우 이지나 (893) 백주영 최민수 강영주 신입사원
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이기훈 (824) (942) (945) (356) (774) (834) 과장 (983) (791) 010-3574-8265 (328) (729) (923) 차장 LEE, EunHye 010-2880-5995
(811) 010-6880-0535 010-3869-6668 010-3846-4253 011-9236-1941 010-5655-7192 010-5503-3281 강재필 010-9341-9964 010-7178-5342 사원 011-591-8917 010-9555-7227 010-3602-9908 박외규 PARK, SeonBoon 010-4614-1621
010-2564-6423 과장 대리 신입사원 사원 (496) 과장 사원 김일환 사원 대리 신입사원 (931) RUNNING
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박지수 (947) (714) (000) (339) 사원 (876) (396) 010-9265-2236 (874) (793) (000) 대리 KARAS, STEVEN 010-9012-8843
(811) 011-9515-3964 010-3857-4850 010-6685-8592 010-96272329 김지현 010-3557-1206 010-2560-1589 신입사원 010-6894-6578 010-9575-1878 010-2396-1513 조현진 LEE, HyangSook 010-9630-4682
010-8612-9818 대리 과장 대리 과장 (473) 대리 사원 손현경 사원 대리 (872) MOON, HeeSung 010-3801-2553
사원 이광열 정영식 박성훈 서성희 010-2928-1530 이성용 강아람 (000) 전은지 김정희 010-8327-8978 YANG, Jhie 010-9957-8821
정재민 (776) (954) (943) (438) 사원 (331) (383) 010-2939-1428 (992) (399) Sub Material SPORTS WEAR
(735) 010-2999-5913 010-7979-8021 011-9537-2736 010-3875-1033 김웅진 010-9523-3702 010-2635-4980 010-3873-510 017-870-1493 대리 KIM, KwangSuk 011-9338-4013
010-8383-9125 과장 대리 대리 (798) 차장 사원 사원 대리 박진희 KIM, MoonWon 010-3552-8870
무역 오성규 우영일 김창규 010-2344-3526 정철수 조중기 현경섭 조선희 (976) KO, SungIn 010-4553-1060
과장 (965) (775) (437) ICL (395) (794) (351) (399) 010-2654-7593 YOO, MyungHo 011-853-1028
신삼식 010-4840-3862 010-2543-8649 010-8938-1146 과장 010-8502-7666 010-7167-8217 010-9880-3094 010-3112-2304 대리 W'S
(516) 대리 사원 대리 구주랑 과장 사원 신입사원 허민호 KIM, MiHwa 010-3862-1343
010-2678-5809 황동영 김영선 이진서 (895) 정구연 강아람 박성대 (990) PARK, SukHee 010-2577-3058
과장 (952) (949) (921) 010-3560-9175 (000) (383) (000) 010-9393-1579 YANG, EDWIN 010-9780-8869
손미자 010-9267-8879 010-5669-5461 010-2657-4023 과장 010-9402-3868 010-2635-4980 010-9132-0778 사원 NIKE ADMIN
(515) 대리 이영옥 사원 사원 신입사원 이용욱 AN, KyungJin 016-583-0133
010-4666-6551 정귀두 (790) 성진규 조중기 박희영 (867) Bae, YuNa 010-9335-4679
신입사원 (903) 010-9811-9704 (919) (794) (000) 010-6475-7128 Doan, Greg 010-5221-6453
제보애 010-4545-3685 사원 010-5098-3283 010-7167-8217 010-4572-8636 PMC 886-98-824-3992
(000) 박근희 신입사원 과장 LEE, EunSoon 010-2297-4680
010-9936-0287 (477) 오세준 류승훈 LEE, MyungJin 010-9800-0692
010-9982-6221 (000) (891) LEE, SangChul 010-4133-7234
과장 010-3868-2001 010-3449-1003 PARK, SoonHee 010-9722-8399
노동조합 백지훈 신입사원 대리 SONG, SoHyun 010-9807-8352
위원장 (479) 김나현 이원근 ENGINEERING
김상득 010-4873-1591 (000) (892) JEONG, YuYoung 010-6558-5131
(812) 대리 010-2067-8306 016-561-0308 KANG, ByungJin 010-2565-5043
017-520-7969 조예린 대리 KIM, JinHyun 010-2974-8913
(357) 김관석 KIM, YJ 010-8350-0717
010-2855-9646 (899) LEE, YongSeon 010-9478-5822
대리 010-9818-0023 LINDNER, Troy 010-4814-6453
임지수 PARK, JaeSook 011-552-8874
(946) PARK, JinSoo 017-558-9691
010-9894-7957 YOON, JongKuk 011-576-4121
Development Process –WHQ

Design
ITP to Asia
( Initial tech package)

•ITP included…
- Basic design
Marketing Developer - Last information
- BOM
- Forecast
- Target FOB
- Retail cost
TRIAD - component call-out
- Tooling construction
-- Market trend
-- Seasonal concept set up
-- Basic design creation
Development Process –New product

CAM CAD GTM

(Category Alignment (Category Assortment
Meeting) Direction) OFFSHORE T/P (Go To Market)

Project file
1. Revision Visual file
Cutting piece
2. Trial (CFM) Tooling part

WEARTEST 3. Mold (CFM) 1ST Batch 2nd Batch

•What is the reason Min/ Bal Min/ Bal
why WEARTEST 4. Sample
should be done
•Considered score check
before PRE RFC?
- Updated BOM
** WEARTEST should - Pattern Efficiency
be done before - Solvent Usage •Considered score check
PRE-RFC because Revision application - Updated BOM
the revision should - Pattern Efficiency
- Solvent Usage
be applied BEFORE
PRE-RFC. Also, you
GTM CFM
need WEARTEST
REVISION to
proceed PRE-RFC
Official T/P
to offshore &
BVTN

DBOM (Developing Bill Of Material)

Development Process –New product
•Final Considered
score check
Wear Test Feedback - Updated BOM
- Pattern Efficiency
- Solvent Usage

BVTN Revision
GTM SM Trial /VC CDC MST
(Go To Market) Offshore Revision (Simultaneous trial )
(Model Size Trial)

Bonding
Pre-RFC Apply the revision
MEMO (BVTN) & feedback and BPFC Confirm (CE)
Proceed to make
the sample
PE- Pass report
* Pre-RFC MEMO is the
GENERAL
CONFIRMATION from
BVTN for MASS
PRODUCTION NLO (Asia) Dev.
RFC MEMO
(Begin RFC)

T/P to Offshore

What is difference between Pre-RFC MEMO (BVTN) and RFC MEMO?

= Pre-RFC MEMO is the GENERAL CONFIRMATION AND RFC MEMO by NLO ASIA DEV.
Is the FINAL CONFIRM after getting the BONDING TEST result.

DBOM TENTATIVE MBOM (Tentative Manufacturing BOM)

Development Process –New product
Model Size:
Ex) M’10 , W8(7)

Internal
CDC MST EXT FSR
(Model Size Trial) Offshore MST (ExtremeSize Trial) (Full Size Run)
(NOT OFFICIAL)

Bonding Man Size

6, 10, 12, 15
BPFC Confirm (CE)
Production
Woman Size
PE- Pass report
5, 7(8), 9, 12

NLO (Asia) Dev.

RFC MEMO Prod.Cfm
(Begin RFC) Shoe must
arrive in
OFFSHORE
FACTORY
by this time

TENTATIVE MBOM (Tentative Manufacturing BOM) CONFIRMED MBOM

Engineering Process
(PE)
Pattern Engineering

Shoes consist of Upper and Sole, pattern engineers take care of upper part for all
process except bottom part.
We need flattened pattern from 3D design on the last or 2D design on the paper to
make physical shoes, that’s the most important working of Pattern Engineering.

Pattern Engineers having played an important role in the all shoe making process.
And PE are serving law data to the related parts.
Pattern Creation Process
Initial Tech Package arrival

Discussion on Upper related tooling & process

Construction or modification of Pattern Shell

Reiteration Zone

Send Pattern shell with sample

Receiving Revision from WHQ

Commercialization Stage (MST/EST/FSR)

Production
Pattern Creation Process

1. Tech package receiving

* BVTN send Tech package before Roll-Out meeting
- Drawing : Upper & Bottom.
- Project Plan : concept, size run, materials…
- Marketing brief : forecast, target market, customer information,…
2. Making Pattern on Dimension.
* Dimension (software) : 2D CAD program for pattern creation
3. Cutting upper materials
* We are using several machines for proto-type sample.
* And using cutting dies for the lots of samples.

Water-jet machine Knife cutting machine

Laser cutting machine Cutting dies machine

4. Stitching & Upper treatment.

Stitching Fuse, No sew

Embroidery Compressed molding HF welding Screen

Fuse, nosew 등
5. Assembly.

Back part molding Toe activation Lasting

Attach upper and sole Cementing Gauge marking

6. Completion.
Pattern Engineer Managing Ability

Pattern Engineer
Managing Ability
Engineering Process
(CE)
CE Job Description
Main
 Check a Bond strength
Bonding  Make the Bonding process for finished shoes

 Set up a New process

CE Process  Manage QA in workshop

Material  Test Physical properties and Color fastness

&
Compound  Inform the improper color combination
 Give a guideline for Compound

Others
1) Project test for chemical and Material approval
2) Option test for Cost & time reduction
Risk management
• Risk management for Color and Bonding on the progress
 Inform potential risks for color combination
 Induce to change the material
 Research a method to prevent the risk

1st pressing 2nd pressing 3rd pressing

Finished shoe test
• Bonding, Color fastness and Flex test
 All model and all colorway
 If it has any issue , we check the process and change material to solve it.
BPFC
• Make a BPFC to follow the best practice
Engineering Process
(TE)
Tooling process
CNC
T/P Scan upper 3D
Program

Arrived tooling design is reviewed and modified for better direction. Scanning upper is necessary to get a top
line and fit upper to sole. Generally it takes 5 days from scanning to final 3D.

CNC milling CASTING ASSEMBLY TEXTURE

EDM

The resultant shape of CNC work is used for CASTING or EDM. After CASTING/EDM work, MOLD parts are
assembled together. And finally MOLD fabrication is completed by applying texture.
Lead time, Cost & etc

● Sample mold status

Mold Method Lead time Remark
CMP All CNC 5 days Standard mold base
Standard mold base/
IP CASTING+EDM 8 days Casting(Structure& Under-cut)

PHYLON Casting 7 days Structure, Under-cut

PU Casting 7 days Structure, Under-cut

OS ZAS Casting 7 days Production:

Steel Casting
All CNC +EDM / Production:
Injection plastic Puzzle type 3~10days All CNC +EDM
(Aluminum) (Special Steel)
Functional
Teams
Functional Teams
*PFC 부서 PFC(Process Flow Chart)
Process flow chart의 약자로 공정의 흐름도를 작성하는 부서입니다. -일종의 신발 설계도(still photo)
PE, TE, CE팀으로부터 샘플을 받으면 워크샵에 가서 제품의 패턴이나 화학물질을 -신발 제조의 모든 공정을 그림과 글로 정확히 표현함
사용하여 제품을 어떻게 만드는 지 그 방법과 순서 등을 체크하고 조사하여 매뉴얼을
작성합니다. 패턴을 만드는 기계의 종류나 온도, 시간설정뿐만 아니라 노쏘/퓨즈 IE(Industrial Engineering): 공정의 표준
공정에서 패턴을 올리는 순서와 기계압력 및 온도 설정, 그리고 마지막 포장방법의 순서 -낭비제거를 통한 수익성 확보
등 세밀한 부분까지 기록하고 작성합니다. -나이키 단가 수익성 확보
모든 생산공장에서 매뉴얼대로 똑같은 제품이 나올 수 있도록 작은 부분까지 현장에서 -공정 분석 데이터 제공을 통한 해외공장 Ramp up단축
확인하고 점검하여 스탠다드 매뉴얼을 작성하는 중요한 업무를 맡고 있습니다. -나이키 리더십 공장으로써 생산 기술력 우위 확보.
-Innovation team PJT IE분야 지원
-해외 공장과의 R&R(역할과 책임) 강화
*IE 부서 -Material/Machine/Man/Method=process/Management
Industrial Engineering의 약자로 산업공학 분야를 담당하고 있습니다. -Eliminate/Combine/Re-arrange/Simplify
생산공정에서 기계, 인력, 생산방법 등 여러 가지 상황을 고려해서 계산법을 적용하여
생산의 효율성을 높이기 위한 연구를 하고 있습니다. 몇 명의 사람이 어떤 기계를 Yield : 채산은 신발 부품에 대한 족당 소요량을 산출하는 공정
사용해서 얼마만큼의 제품을 만들어내는지를 계산하여 데이터를 산출하고 이러한 -실제 생산에 소요되는 자재 구입을 위한 자료
데이터로 생산공정의 현황파악 및 새로운 프로세스를 연구, 생산성을 높이는데 -신발 한족을 생산하는데 소요되는 원자재의 소요량을 산출
기여하고 있습니다. 그리고 이렇게 산출된 정보를 해외공장에 제공하고 있습니다. -오더에 필요한 자재를 생산공장에 납품
-GTM sampleà Model trialà Factory M/Tà CDC EXT Trialà Factory FSRà Product
*Yield 부서 CFM sample
채산이라고 하며 신발에 사용되는 모든 부품에 대해 소요량을 산출하고 있습니다.
실제로 생산에 사용되는 모든 자재를 기입하고 패턴과 사이즈에 따라 자재가 얼만큼
필요한지 필요량을 산출합니다. 이러한 채산표를 활용하여 자재를 발주하고 제품을
생산하기 때문에 원단의 특성에 따른 산출방법과 정확한 수치를 기입하는 것이
중요합니다.

*5523&Costing 부서
-5523부서에서는 채산 프로그램을 사용하여 제품의 면적을 산출하여 관세와 관련된
업무를 하고 있습니다. 자재의 Majority를 기준으로 각 나라별 세금이 다르기 때문에
5523에서 자재의 면적을 정확하게 산출해내어 NIKE에 정보를 제공하는 중요한 업무를
맡고 있습니다.

-Costing부서에서는 제품이 완성되면 제품의 단가를 산출하여 NIKE측에 제시하고

미팅을 통해 검증을 받습니다. 각각의 샘플이 완성되는 매 단계마다 가격을
산출하며, 이러한 과정 속에는 Labor, over/head, Tooling 등 제품을 생산할 때까지
사용한 모든 경비를 계산합니다. 다른 부서들과의 자료를 공유하여 취합한 뒤 공장도
가격을 산출하기 때문에 제품이 시장으로 출시되는 과정에서 중요한 임무를 맡고
있습니다.
6. Pattern Engineering
Pattern / 김종구 차장
Pattern Creation Process
Initial Tech Package arrival

Discussion on Upper related tooling & process

Construction or modification of Pattern Shell

Reiteration Zone

Send Pattern shell with sample

Receiving Revision from WHQ

Commercialization Stage (MST/EST/FSR)

Production
1. Tech package receiving
* BVTN send Tech package before Roll-Out meeting
- Drawing : Upper & Bottom.
- Project Plan : concept, size run, materials…
- Marketing brief : forecast, target market, customer information,…
2. Discussion on Upper related tool & process,…
2-1. Upper related tooling

A. High Frequency Welding Mold (pressing) / (45c steel, Aluminum )

B. Normal Screen Print, Pop up screen.
C. Injection Mold
D. No Sew/ Fuse Construction
E. Cutting die ( normal , CNC, Thomson )
F. Laser etching method
G. Embroidery
H. Water-jet Machine (for Looksee sample after revision or before pattern settled up)
2-1. Considerations regarding Pattern creation.

Concept of pattern dev. creation

Upper tooling application

Pattern type
A. Strobel type
process
B. Toe lasting type A. Stitching Process
C. True center seam B. Assembly Process Design concept
D. Board lasting type C. Cutting process

Nike Quality requirement

A. Collar heights
B. Bonding margin
C. last
d. Heel counter shape
e. Best practice
3. Making Pattern on Dimension.
* Dimension (software) : 2D CAD program for pattern creation
4. Cutting upper materials
* We are using several machines for proto-type sample.
* And using cutting dies for the lots of samples.

Water-jet machine Knife cutting machine

Laser cutting machine Cutting dies machine

5. Stitching & Upper treatment.

Stitching Fuse, No sew

Embroidery Compressed molding HF welding Screen

Fuse, nosew 등
6. Assembly.

Back part molding Toe activation Lasting

Attach upper and sole Cementing Gauge marking

7. Completion.
Best Practices:
1.Collar heigtts-80/60/56 for M’s9 and 73/50/54 for W’s7.
2.Required double rows stitching-Tip/Foxing/Eyestay.
3.Thread/Stitch per inches:280D 3ply 8-10 for M’s and 210D 3ply 10-12 for W’s/GS/PS
4.Back Tack is a minimum of 3 stitches.
5.Box stitching-Tongue base attachment and pull tab(inside).
6.Collar foam to counter overlap is 10mm.
7.Collar foam to collar lining edge is 10-15 mm for secure bonding.
8.C/O label : Heat seal or stitch down for open mesh.
9.Reflective/Mono mesh materials should not be used open mesh.
10.Bonding margin is minimum 8mm from the biteline.
11.Punched eyelets are 3.5mm diameter.
Injected and HF welded eyelets are 4.0mm diameter.
12.The distance between the eyestay top line and edge of lace hole is minimum of 5mm.
Construction of Pattern Shell
1. Last draft construction process

A. What is last draft? Flat representation of top surface area of given last.
B. Methods ? Taping , Vacuum forming method, Digital scanning
C. Last draft making Process with taping method

Taping on Last Removing tape from last and flattening onto pattern card

Completed Last Draft

2. Last shell pattern creation process

A. Last draft confirmation

- Material to wrap the Last and to check is “Unio Buck 1.3mm black - MCS# TR/BPU 106”
- Check overall fitting to the Last ; Vamp, Midfoot Arch, and Back curve has no loose fit and wrinkles

Completed Last Draft

3. Standard shell pattern creation process

B. Key Measurement – collar/back heights, vamp length, width of eyestay opening.

4. Pattern creation

A. Put designs on standard shell pattern

B. In accordance With Nike Best practice !!!
-toe-box
-cutting
-back part molding
-threads
-Strobel
-assembly
-last

Standard shell pattern

5. Introduction Of Pattern Creation Tool

A. Dimensions – Pattern Engineering System

B. DCS (Device Control System) – Pattern Cutting machines.
C. Illustrator – drawing & transferring for file format.
D. Standard shell pattern data
6. Pattern Construction

Step 1. Receive design file(PDF file) from Bvtn designer.

Step 2. Open standard shell pattern.
Step 3. Delete unnecessary lines of standard shell pattern.
Step 4. Draw lines as per the original design file.
Step 5. Completed shell pattern.
After finishing to make shell pattern, send pattern file to Bvtn with samples.
7. Pattern Construction (OCL & 3D CURVES)
8. 3D DATA
9. Last Terminology

Stick
Length
7. Tooling Engineering
TE / 서성희 차장
Tooling Developer Manual

CDC Tooling Team

 Tooling Developer Manual

• NIKE PROCESS

CAM, CAF, GTM단계에서는 컨셉에 맞춰 디자인변경, 자재 변경 등

많은 부분들이 수정되고 업데이트가 반복된다

ITP
(Initial Tech Package) CAF BVTN T/P SM
CAM (Category Assortment Pre-RFC
1. Target FOB Offshore
(Ready For (Simultaneous Trial)
2. Forecast (Category Alignment Finalization) T/P
Meeting) Commercialization)
3. Retail cost 해외공장과 동시에
4. BOM
1. PHYSICAL UPPER
GTM 생산 전 단계로 시화를 하여 VC후
3. METERIAL 모든 이슈와 24시간 안에Feedback을
4. TECHNICAL SAMPLE 제작 (Go To Market)
문제점들을 받아야 함
2. RP/SOMOS 제작 1. Revision 해결해야 됨
Pattern – 디자인 2. Trial (Cfm)
Tooling – Bottom 디자인 3. Mold (Cfm)
LAST정보, 4. Sample
자재정보 접수
Pre-RFC MEMO
(BVTN)
WEAR TEST
Pre-RFC 메모는
생산을 위한
BVTN의 승인확인

FSR EST MST

PRODUCT (Full Size Run)
(Extreme Size Trial) (Model Size Trial)

- Man Size 1. Bonding

6, 9, 12, 15 2. BPFC Confirm-CE
3. PE – Pass Report
- Woman Size 4. NLO (Asia) Dev.
- 매 단계에서 Project file을 PPT로 작성 후 PDF로 변환
Shell Pattern File, Tooling File을 PCM에 포스팅한다. 5, 7, 9, 12 RFC MEMO

- Pre RFC MEMO와 RFC MEMO의 차이점

Pre RFC MEMO후 RFC단계의 Bonding TEST결과가
승인되면 RFC MEMO가 된다
 Tooling Developer Manual
ITP or Revision 접수

ITP or Revision 리뷰미팅 CAM

(Category Alignment
Meeting)
Issue & Suggestion communication

Upper 제작
CAF
(Category Assortment
Upper scan & Footbed 제작
Finalization)

2D Drawing

GTM
3D Modeling (Go To Market)

Somos or RP제작 reiteration

MST
3D Review meeting (Model Size Trial)

3D Posting after 3D CFM

Mold Making EST

(Extreme Size Trial)

Pad & Jig 제작

Part CFM FSR

(Full Size Run)

현장작업 및 제품점검

Sample 발송 & Review meeting

 Tooling Developer Manual
ITP or Revision 접수

• Initial Tech package 점검사항

ITP or Revision 리뷰미팅
1. Design Concept 이해
2. Last spec Check (Gauge / Ball Hell Offset…)
3. Bonding margin check (Upper와의 본딩 마진 / Part별 본딩 마진)
4. 각 부품별 성형 조건에 따른 제품 형상과 두께 점검
- 제품의 척도 / 로고 깊이 및 사이즈 / 가공성 및 취출 조건
5. Process 확인 및 필요 치공구 점검
- 스프레이 지그. 패드 프린팅 지그, 톰슨발형, 압착 라스트, 패드…
 Tooling Developer Manual

• Upper : FB 라스트를 사용하며 NLO 엔지니어의 컨폼(sign) 받은 것을 사용

Upper 제작
• Footbed : 제작 후 NLO 엔지니어의 컨폼(sign) 받은 것을 개발기간 동안 보관

Upper scan & Footbed 제작

Taping Laser scan Scan data

Footbed modeling Core modeling Surface make

NC data 가공 Done
 Tooling Developer Manual

2D Drawing

가도면

ITP or Revision

ITP or Revison 파일에서 우선 모델링이

진행될 수 있는 정도의 가 도면을 진행 후
모델링 완성 시 Section 부위까지 최종
업데이트하여 도면완성

완성된 도면
 Tooling Developer Manual

OS

3D Modeling
각 파트별 모델링

Cushlon IU

완성된 모델링
 Tooling Developer Manual

RP를 참고하여
Revision 사항이 빠짐없이
적용되었는지 점검

Somos or RP제작

3D Review meeting < Revision >

< 3D PDF> < RP >

 Tooling Developer Manual

FREE TR CONNECT (SP13-WMTRNG-141)_Tooling_E.zip

FREE TR CONNECT (SP13-WMTRNG-141)_PDF_E.zip

FREE TR CONNECT (SP13-WMTRNG-141)_E.pdf

FREE TR CONNECT (SP13-WMTRNG-141)_E.u3d
FREE TR CONNECT (SP13-WMTRNG-141)_E_3D.pdf

FREE TR CONNECT (SP13-WMTRNG-141)_STL_E.zip

FREE TR CONNECT (SP13-WMTRNG-141)_Film_E.stl

FREE TR CONNECT (SP13-WMTRNG-141)_IU_E.stl
FREE TR CONNECT (SP13-WMTRNG-141)_OS_E.stl

< NIKE Rule> < Example>

The tooling file used for each development stage’s sampling

3D Posting after 3D CFM should be posted no later than sample shipping date.

RFC단계에서는
Rev code를 Z로 변경하고
U3d 파일은 remove하고
Igs 파일을 추가하여 포스팅 한다
 Tooling Developer Manual

Mold design

Mold modeling

가공 데이터 산출

NC가공 (목형/전극/Core/Base)

가공물 점검 (목형/전극)

주물 or 방전
보다 자세한 사항은
첨부된 Manual 참조
조립

제품 작업

초품 작업 후 제품외관
제품 확인 (형상, 두께, 피팅등) 피팅 상태에 따라
Mold Making
추가 수리 진행

Mold 수리

부식 & 도금

공장입고 & 최종 제품 확인
 Tooling Developer Manual

• 몰드 제작 기간중 각종 치공구 제작

- Outsole : 생지 발형 / 톰슨 발형
- IU : 숙성지그 / 3D 점검지그 / 스크라이버 자 / 스프레이 지그
- 패드 : 압착 라스트 / 준비 패드 / 게이지 패드 / 사방 패드
- Other : 패드 프린팅, 에어백 마킹, 에어백 점검…..

< 톰슨 발형>

< 3D 점검지그>
< 압착 패드>

Pad & Jig 제작

Part CFM < 스크라이버 자>

< 스프레이 지그>

 Tooling Developer Manual

2D/3D에서 미처 파악되지 못한 금형, 제품 작업상 문제점들을 파악하여

Suggestion하여 다음 단계에서 업데이트 될수 있도록 한다

• 파트 CFM 점검 준비물
- 각 라운드 최종 2D (*.pdf)
Part CFM - 각 파트별 1족
- Stockfit 완제창 1족
- Section 점검용 (완제창 Section 맞춰 컷팅)
- 각 파트별 게이지
- 자, 버니어 캘리퍼스, 순간 접착제, 가위, 칼등
 Tooling Developer Manual

• Sample review meeting

실제 샘플을 진행하며 예상치 않게 발견된 문제점들과 보다 더 신발 품질을 높이기 위한

사항들을 토론하며 다음 라운드 진행시 업데이트 하여야 할 부분에 대해서 Suggestion 한다

제품을 제작함에 있어서 문제는 없지만 Sipe 부위의

Wave 현상을 해결하기 위한 Suggestion

< Example_1>

급격한 Tape로 IU 작업시 다수의 불량이 발생함으로

다음 라운드시 Tape값을 Reduce 할것을 Suggestion

현장작업 및 제품점검
< Example_2>

Sample 발송 & Review meeting

 Tooling Developer Manual
ITP or Revision 접수

ITP or Revision 리뷰미팅

CAM (Category Alignment Meeting)

Issue & Suggestion communication

Upper 제작

CAF (Category Assortment Finalization)

Upper scan & Footbed 제작

2D Drawing

3D Modeling GTM (Go To Market)

각 단계를 거치면서 제품, 금형상 발생하는
문제점을 파악하고 Suggestion하여
Somos or RP제작 최종 생산공장에서 생산 시 아무런 문제가
없도록 개발이 진행되도록 개발 진행

3D Review meeting MST (Model Size Trial)

3D Posting after 3D CFM

Mold Making
EST (Extreme Size Trial)

Pad & Jig 제작

Part CFM
FSR (Full Size Run)

현장작업 및 제품점검

Sample 발송 & Review meeting

8. Chemical Engineering
CE / 김창종 차장
CHEMICAL TRAINING

CDC Chemical Engineering team

C.J KIM
 Organization
Team Leader
KM Park

Category CE LAB Press shop

Sample
Running Outsole
Validation

W’s Training RSL Midsole

NSW Spray

T&F DCS
 Role & Responsibility

1. Chemical engineering support to each category

- Bonding process set up
- Analyze quality issues / Risk management
- Come up with alternatives

2. Develop new compound and process

3. QA management

4. Offshore factory support

5. Collaborative development with chemical vendors

OUTSOLE

1
1. Rubber classification
1. Rubber classification

O/RS Outsole Rubber Solid

OG/RS Outsole Green Rubber Solid

O/RF Outsole Rubber Foam

O/AC Outsole AutoClave

3. NIKE Rubber specification
3. NIKE Rubber specification
4. Formulation table

1
4 Part per Hundred of Resin
Base rubbers

Pre Dispersed
Poly Binder

Powder &
Liquid
chemicals
4. Formulation table
5. Vulcanization mechanism

Sulfur vulcanization

Polysulfide crosslinks and polysulfide pendant linkages are converted to

monosutfide crosslinks, (this process is facilitated by Zinc Oxide) that are for more
thermally stable.
5. Vulcanization mechanism

Peroxide vulcanization

At the beginning of the vulcanization process, the organic peroxide splits into 2
radicals. RO:OR → 2RO•

The free radicals formed as a consequence of the decomposition of the peroxide,

abstract hydrogen atoms from the elastomer macromolecules, converting them
into macroradicals.
~CH2C(CH3)=CHCH2 + RO• → ROH + ~CH2C(CH3)=CHHC•~

The resulting macroradicals react each other by forming carbon – carbon

intermolecular bridges

Lower reaction rate and the resulting vulcanizates have a lower tensile strength,
scorching tendency and unpleasant smell.
7. Outsole mixing & process

All batches must have a batch tracking tag assigned in the

weigh-up area.

All pigments and chemicals must be separately sealed in

millable bags.

Chemicals should be separated according to mixing addition,

and the operator should check that all chemicals are present.

The banbury batch should drop directly onto a mill. The dump
temp. should be checked and randomly recorded.
7. Outsole mixing & process

The compound should be sheeted off and be allowed to cool for

2hrs at room temperature.
3Batch Combination

The rubber should be below 50 ºC before sulfur addition.

The rubber should be cooled to a temperature of 50 ºC, through

the use of a chiller, cold water or a fan.

All rubber batches should do the rheometer testing before

proceed to next process.
Duralon should be checked the E/R, H/D with test slab.
7. Outsole mixing & process

Marching (peroxide cured rubber)

tc90 Plateau (Sulfur cured rubber)

Torque (dNM or lb-in)

Reversion (Extremely over cured)

Vulcanizing
region

Processing
MHR MHP MHM
safety region

ts2

ML

Time (min)

ML: Minimum Torque, MH: Maximum Torque, TC90: Time to 90% of maximum torque
7. Outsole mixing & process

There must be clearly posted standard for each compound for scorch time (T2 / T10) and
cure time (T90 ) for Sulfur cure rubber.
The range for T90 is no more than +/- 10%. All compounds (Sulfur and Peroxide cured) must
have a posted standard cure curve by MCS#.
7. Outsole mixing & process

The calendered rubber must be held for a minimum of 8 hours

and a maximum of 4 days before pressing to allow for shrinkage
and stabilization.

Preforms should be cut efficiently in order to minimize cutting

scrap.

Cut preforms checked for weight against PFC.

Press date must be clearly marked on the outsole part and 10

mm away from the bonding margin.
O/S press to Degreasing : 13days
7. Outsole mixing & process

Automatic timers fitted to all presses. Press operators use timers.

Remove outsole flashing.

Types of defectives (can be found in the line)

- Forming
- Tearing
- Color bleeding
- Under cure

O/S components are chlorinated within 5 hours after degreasing.

7. Outsole mixing & process

60~65C X 45~50sec
pH: 6.5~7.5

75~80C X 60sec 0.02%,

pH: 10~11 70~75C X 45~50sec
pH: 2~5
7. Outsole mixing & process

To remove trapped air, molds are

bumped 1~2 times 20~30sec after closing the press

Operator checks parts for expansion ratio after demolding(135%).

Parts are cooled at room temperature for 2 hrs.

Parts are to be post-cured within 4hrs. Post cure condition is

80℃ to 90℃ for 4 to 8hrs.

After cooling(2hrs) parts are to be checked with a gauge.

Tolerance is +/-2mm in length and +/-2mm in width.
7. Outsole mixing & process
MIDSOLE

2
1. Midsole classification
1. Midsole classification

Midsole

EVA PU

 Conventional Phylon
 PU Midsole
 CMP Phylon
 SHOX
 Die Cut EVA Midsole
 Airbag encapsulated
 Injection Phylon
 Soft PU
 Injection Unitsole
1. Midsole classification

Conventional Phylon Compression Injection Phylon Poly Urethane

Molded Injection Unitsole
Preform Injection PreForm
2. What is EVA & PU?

EVA

Copolymer of Ethylene and Vinyl acetate.

The weight percent Vinyl Acetate usually varies from 10 to 40%.

- Thermoplastics
- Flexible / Elastomeric
- Good process-ability
- Weathering resistance
- Non-toxic
- Expansion foam
- Hotmelt adhesives
2. What is EVA & PU?

PU
3. Physical Properties

M/WE Midsole Wedge EVA

M/WCMP Midsole Wedge CMP

M/WPU Midsole wedge PolyUreathane

M/WIP Midsole wedge Injected Phylon

M/WIU Midsole wedge Injected Unitsole

LU/FO Limited Use Foam

S/FO Sockliner Foam

S/RFO Sockliner Recycle Foam

3. Physical Properties
3. Physical Properties
3. Physical Properties
3. Physical Properties
4. Expansion mechanism _ CP/CMP/IP/Sockliners

Base
발포제 가교제
Polymer

Mixing

가교제 및
가열/가압 발포제의 분해

Expansion

Stabilization
4. Expansion mechanism _ CP/CMP/IP/Sockliners
CP/CMP/Sockliners

GO!

Chemical Batch card Kneader Open roll Batch 2nd Open

weigh up mixing mixing combination roll mixing

Calendaring Cavity 1000 ton Stabilization Skiving Cutting/

weigh up press at room Grinding
temp.
P/L Press

Pelletizing Cavity CMP Press Stabilization Grinding

weigh up 40C X
20min
4. Manufacturing Process _ CP/CMP/Sockliners

MCS # M/WE-023 Active

60,090
DATE Nov. '01 Resin(g)

PHR PRICE PRICE

NO COMPONENT GRAMS M/B Purpose VENDOR
(Active) $/KG $/BATCH

1 ELVAX 2288 50,000.0 83.21 Base Resin $1.05 $52.50 Dupont

2 ZN/50 2,000.0 1.66 Filler $1.86 $3.72 Kumyang

3 MG/43 7,000.0 5.01 Filler $1.42 $9.94 Kumyang

4 JTR-M50 8,000.0 6.66 Blowing Agent $2.23 $17.84 Kumyang

5 DCP 400.0 0.67 Crosslinking Agent $3.67 $1.47 NOF Corp.

6 TI/50 4,500.0 3.74 White pigment $2.03 $9.14 Kumyang

7 5200 U-BLUE 112.0 0.19 Pigment $8.89 $1.00 Minyoung

8 2B-RED (1/10) 14.0 0.02 Pigment $5.10 $0.07 DH Swiss

TOTAL 72,026.0 144.05 $95.67

COST ($/KG) $1.33

CP/CMP/Sockliners

All materials should be accurately weighed into separate millable bags,

properly sealed and labeled.

The Batch Card must contain the following information:

Unique B/T No. / MCS#/ Color / Shoe Model / Date /Time of
Peroxide/Blowing Agent Addition
Date/Time of Calendaring

Dump temperature must be checked on each batch, and should be

between 100C and 120C.

Roll Temp : 80℃ Roll nip : 1mm

Tailing : 3 times
CP/CMP/Sockliners

1.Roll Temp : 80℃

2.Roll nip : 5 mm
3.Cross Bending : 3times

New Batch Number

3-Batches are properly averaged prior to a a a
calendaring. b b b
c c c
0001 0002 0003

Roll Temp : 80℃

Roll nip : 5mm
Tailing : 3 times

Calendared sheets are no more than 3mm thick.

Calendared sheets are cooled to below 50C prior to stacking and are
cooled quickly.
CP/CMP/Sockliners

A minimum of 2hrs from calendar sheet out to use is maintained for all
batches. Maximum of 10days age from calendar to pressing. Preferred
4days.

Cavity charges weighed out to +/-50g with calibrated balance.

Mold temperature at least 155C. Variation in temp within a model +/-3C

Batch # and press date marked on sheets when demolded.

Sheets stored at least 12hrs after pressing prior to die cutting.
Conventional Phylon

Every Sheet corner cut are to be preserved at QA room to check the

physical properties.

Check hardness & Specific gravity with skin-off sponge.

Remove Skin.

Slope Skiving

Sheets stored at least 12hrs after pressing prior to die cutting.

Conventional Phylon

Confirmed CSS for preforms posted at grinding

stations.

Completed preforms are to be checked against

PFC shape and weigh table.

9 Size / B/T No. / Weight / H/D / Inspector’s name /

023011729 Worker’s No.
50g
38C
검사자
A-2

Heating time is to be no less than 1min. at 140℃, the surface of the

prefoam.
Phylon inside temperature is to be below 35°C when demolded.
CMP

Extruder must be cleaned of residue (including water

separator) at the end of each shift, and prior to changing
materials. (MCS, color,etc)

Check H/D and E/R

CMP cavity charges weighed out to +/-0.2g with

calibrated balance.

CMP mold temp at least 155C. Variation in temp within a model

+/-3C
CMP

Stamp B/T No. and Press date.

Min. 20minutes at 40℃.

After stabilizing, CMP are to be cooled at room temperature for
2 hours.

Check the E/R and H/D and record in the log

book.

Heating time is to be no less than 1min. at 140℃, the surface of the

prefoam.
Phylon inside temperature is to be below 35°C when demolded.
Injection Phylon

GO!

Chemical Batch card Kneader Open roll Batch 2nd Open

weigh up mixing mixing combination roll mixing

Large/Small Blended Injection Stabilization Washing Scribeline

Pelletizing
material Material check

check Check

UV Process
Injection Phylon

BOTTOM PLATE UPPER PLATE

AIR SUCTION HOLE

Injection Phylon

A & B Material
Material Storage QC Check Production Trial
Mixing

Separate the raw Physical test for each Mix a minimum of 30 Physical test for blended
material by material and material lot is to be done minutes. material lot is to be done
colors. with test slab. Blended material must with test slab. (5kg)
E/R(%), S/G, H/D(2hrs, not be over 100kg per E/R(%), S/G, H/D(2hrs,
First In, First Out 24hrs) drum. 24hrs)
Primary materials (A/B)
should be blended
within 10 days after QA
check ER.
Injection Phylon

Drying Material Mold Cleaning Spray MRA Injection

Temperature : 45~50℃ Clean the mold with air Spray mold release
CONDITIO
Humidity : Max. 30% spray gun. agent and blow out with TYPE
N
air spray.
STANDAR 170±4℃
2 times Green200 : Water = 1:30 D IP X
380±20se
c
Injection 170±4℃
Unitsole X
400±20se
c
Injection Phylon

Remove gate Stamp

De-molding Stabilization Jig
sprue MCS/Date

Take out products as Trim the gate scrap Stamp MCS # and Put the products on the
soon as it is de-molded. clearly. production date. stabilization jig.
Check the defectives.
Injection Phylon

Stabilization
Remove Jig Washing Scribeline Check
tunnel

Temp : 1st – 60±5 c° Remove the jig after Water temperature : Nike standard
2nd – 50 ±5 c° passed through the IP  45~50℃ Over 150mm: +/-2mm
3rd – 40 ±5 c° tunnel. Under 150mm: +/-1mm
IU  50~55℃
4th – 30 ±5 c°
Washing time :
Passing time : Minimum 10 min.
45 ±5 min
Drying time:
Minimum 10 min.
PolyUrethane

GO!

Raw Raw QA Check PU Pouring De-molding Trim &

material material Clean
melting mixing

Remove MRA Spray Stockfitting

Painting
 PolyUrethane
Rotary Machine
1. Automated mold closing - allows faster systems so
gives higher productivity per mold
2. Base and top plate of mold are heated directly, one
controller for two molds - mold temperature is more
consistent.
3. Mold angle set mechanically – consistent automated
pouring path - consistent precisely defined shot size and
pour pattern
Conveyor machine
1. Manual mold closing - needs slower systems and longer
cycle times
2. Molds easily changed - greater production flexibility
3. Molds heated indirectly and not continuously through the
cycle
4. Pour pattern manually controlled - more chance for
variation
limited number of shot sizes available
PolyUrethane

Raw material
Material thawing Material mixing Cup test
control

Polyol and ISO stocks Inventory in the thawing Polyol is mixed with a A cup test is performed
must be controlled for and holding ovens must fixed head mixer. Mixing at least every 3 hours to
FIFO. An inventory list be controlled in a FIFO time is automatically verify reaction profile.
by lot number is system. Materials are controlled. Mixer speed The pouring time and
available for all PU processed through the is adjustable so that date should be recorded
materials in the thawing and holding mixing is efficient on the top or side of the
warehouse ovens within 24 hours. without entraining air cup. Cream time, tack
into the polyol. free time, pinch time,
rise time should be
Each pouring head in
checked. This data
use must be checked at
should be recorded in a
least twice per shift for
daily production log.
mix ratio. Using pours of
1x3sec and 3x1sec.
PolyUrethane

Mold positioning Mold temp. check Spray MRA PU Pouring

A clearly visible PFC Mold temperatures The minimum quantity of Workers handling
should be posted close should be checked mold release must be airbags should use
to each pouring head. before production starts applied by fine mist clean cotton gloves.
The PFC should and again at least once spray. There should be
contain: per shift. Results are no dripping or puddles of The PFC should contain:
MCS # logged. Production must MRA in the molds.
Mold angle not start until molds are MCS #
Dry, oil free compressed Mold angle
Pouring path including stable at target
air or heated air used to
mix head movement temperature Pouring path including
dry MRA. Mold release
speed mix head movement
agent must be
speed
completely dry before
pouring PU material into
the mold.
PolyUrethane

De-molding Remove MRA Trimming Painting

De-molded parts should Remove remained MRA No sharp, metal or Spray or painting to
be checked for by cotton brush wheel heated tools used to prevent yellowing and
excessive flashing within 1 hours and dried. clean blow-by from hydrolysis.
and/or airbag blow by airbag windows.
that would indicate a
need to repair molds.
5. Pros & Cons

Process Pros Cons

Conventional - No need model specified - Large scrap / loss

phylon preform mold
CMP Phylon - More sophisticated hardness
by using 3D shape preform
- Less scrap / loss
Injection Phylon - High productivity
- Automated process
- Consistent hardness
- Long preparation process
- Relatively poor delicate
hardness in phylon (2D
preform)
- Air hole needed in phylon
mold
- Additional preform mold
needed
- Hard to control prefom size
consistency
- Air hole needed in phylon
mold
- Shiny skin
- Hard to control size
consistency
- High defective rate

PU midsole - High elastic - Hydrolysis

- Good recovery - UV Yellowing
- Airbag co-molding available - Expensive maintenance cost
LAB

3
1. NIKE Essential tests by materials
1. NIKE Essential tests by materials
2. Finished Shoe test
N Specimens / Used
Test Method Purpose
o materials

신발의 앞 FLEX의 내구성을 알아보기 위한

TEST. 테스트 시편의 FLEX부분에 반복해서
1 G32. FLEX, WHOLE SHOE Finished shoes
TEST하고 시각적으로 보이는 damage에 대해
서 검사.

G35. WASHABILITY, SOIL Fabric, coated materials, 차가운 물에서의 자재와 신발의 “FEEL” 또는
2
RELEASE leathers & finished shoes “LOOK”의 변화를 측정.

QUV 장비를 사용하여 UV 자외선에 노출 시킨

All shoe components,
3 G37. UV COLOR CHANGE 후 자재가 황변 또는 변색 되는지를 시험하기 위
white & colors
함.

Closure parts, eyelets,

G39. CLOSURE SYSTEM 신끈을 기계로 잡아 당겨 신발의 CLOSURE
4 laces, stitching thread,
PULL TEST SYSTEM의 세기를 측정.
sewn seems
Whole shoes &
components;
outsole/midsole, midsole/upper,
5 G48. STRIP BONDING outsole/midsole,
outsole/upper 사이의 접착강도를 측정.
midsole/upper,
outsole/upper

G84. ELEVATED TEMP. Finished shoes, shoe 고온의 환경에 처할 경우에 신발에 일어날 수 있
6
TEST-FINISHED SHOES components 는 변화
Thank You!
Q&A