Lingerie Design & Development

Women's underwear and nightclothes Lingerie is A term for women's fashion undergarments designed to be visually appealing or sensuous. Lingerie is a term for fashionable and alluring undergarments. It derives from the French word linge, -"washables" as in faire le linge, - "do the laundry" — and ultimately from lin - washable linen, the fabric from which undergarments were made. (län'zhə-rā', län'zhə-rē,) A general, broad term for women's under-clothing or night wear.

Undergarments or underwear are clothes worn under other clothes, often next to the skin. They keep outer garments from being soiled by perspiration, and other discharges; shape the body; and provide support. It also provides additional warmth. Some undergarments can serve as nightwear or swimsuits. Undergarments commonly worn by women today include brassieres and panties (also known as knickers), While men often wear briefs, boxer shorts, and boxer briefs. Items commonly worn by both sexes include T-shirts, sleeveless shirts (also called singlets), bikini underwear, thongs, and G-strings

From the 16th century onwards. which pushed the breasts upwards. Women have used a variety of garments and devices to cover.History The history of brassieres is intertwined with the social history of the status of women. including the evolution of fashion and changing views of the body. . restrain. the undergarments of wealthier women were dominated by the corset. or modify the display and shape of their breasts.

various alternatives were experimented with. the emphasis on brassiere usage has shifted from functionality to fashion. During the 20th century.History In the latter part of the 19th century. garments more closely resembling contemporary bras had emerged. By the early 20th century. Brassieres are a multi-billion-dollar industry dominated by large multinational corporations . Since then bras have replaced corsets. although some women prefer camisoles and a minority go without. splitting the corset into a girdle-like restraining device for the lower torso and transferring the upper part to devices suspended from the shoulder . . although large-scale commercial production did not occur till the 1930s.

Going as far back as 2500 BC during the early period of Minoan Crete civilization.exposing them for all to see. wore bras that lifted their breasts above the neckline of their clothes. women wore bra-like underclothing to support the breasts. apparently at the urgings of Crete men.History Ancient Age The history of the bra is a long and storied one. The Cretan Snake Goddess . One slight difference between the articles worn by our Mediterranean ancestors and modern underclothing is that the Crete women.

was an ancient statue found in Greece around 2000 BC she was sculptured wearing a tight-fitting garment from underbust to the waist that effectively frapped her waist and pushed up her naked breast. Roman women in 3rd or 4th centuries wore a circular band around their breasts whose purpose was to reduce the breast movement .History Ancient Age The Cretan Snake Goddess. This garment was considered a predecessor of today’s corset. and to hide the protrusion of natural breast .

At the end of the 14th century . most women left their breasts unsupported . Tailors developed techniques to produce body conscious garments through shaped pattern pieces . .History Medieval Period During the 13th to 14th century . whereby the breasts were evident even if not emphasized. the medieval period gave way to the Renaissance . when the appreciation of beauty was renewed .

so a considerable part of the breast was exposed. women wore corsets that were made from paste-stiffened linen and given support by thin wooden planks called busk. but voluptuous.History Crazy Corset Years Croset was quite essential in the everyday life of women during the 16th . The ideal form was narrow-waisted (hourglass). . in order to compress the breasts and to shape the torso as a smooth line . with compression of the breasts forcing them upwards to the point of almost spilling out. In the early 1500s. 17th and 18th centuries. iron corsets were being worn by the upper classes. The emphasis now was on form. By the 1530s .

alongside corsets were also made from whale bones. making it ideal for stiffening the confining undergarment. Steel-reinforced corsets. The concept of lingerie as visually appealing undergarment was developed during the late nineteenth century. This durable material has the ability to hold its shape. Corset and tight lacing to give fashionably A luxury hourglass corset from long slender figure 1878.History By the middle of the 19th century. the corset was still in fashion. featuring a busk fastening at the front and lacing at the back .

contraption so tight they damaged internal organs.History Corsets molded. cinched. . flattened or lifted women's silhouettes. for a look largely associated with the fashion of the 1800s and the Victorian age.and along with it. The 20-inch waist -. The ultimate achievement of the corset.

History .

for hygienic reasons. women wore underwear for three primary reasons: to alter their outward shape (first with corsets and later with girdles or bras).History Through the first half of the 20th century. Girdles . or for modesty.

Manufacturer began to use lighter and more breathable fabrics. During the late 19th century. women found themselves filling in men's work roles. corsets became smaller.History Before the invention of crinoline. first patented in the 20th century by Mary Phelps Jacob. and were gradually supplanted by the brassiere. When the First World War broke out. less bulky and constricting. . women's underwear was often very large and bulky. creating a creating a demand for more practical undergarments.

History The brassiere or bra was born at the early 20th century just after the decline in the popularity of corsets in the late 19th century . The early bra invention was based on an idea to use shoulder straps and cups to support the weight of the breast in order to make a garment that was more comfortable to wear and healthier than corsets .

and promoted alluring. She had invented the first BRA which she patented and initially called the "corselet gorge“ or the soutien-gorge ("support for the breast" in old French)." For women's comfort she had cut the traditional corset in two. pared-down lingerie. the upper supporting the breasts by means of shoulder straps. Lady Duff-Gordon of Lucile was a pioneer in developing lingerie that freed women from more restrictive corsets. The lower part was a corset for the waist. she launched liberating slit skirts and low necklines. and would almost blend-in with modern underclothing if you saw it on a shelf today.or the "Well-being. Cadolle’s Corset . popularized less restrictive corsets.History In 1889. corset maker Herminie Cadolle invented le bien-être. Her garment effectively cut the traditional corset in two.

History Marie Tucek filed an application with the U. However it can barely called a bra as it did not covered women’s nipples.S. Patent Office for a "breast supporter" Tucek cleverly integrated separate pockets for each breast and her invention had the hook-and-eye closures modern women are familiar with today looked very similar to the mordern demi-cup bras. Breast Supporter in 1893 .

)+ . He called them ‘brassieres’ from the old French braciere: bra.History The early half of the 1900s saw marked improvements and developments in the continuing saga of the bra.iere. In 1904. Among these styles. Charles de Bevoise invented over 20 different styles of lightweight undergarment fashioned in silk and embroidered with lace to meet the women’s demand for comfortable undergarments.ier." . This was the first time that the breasts were supported from above instead of being pushed up from below. he created a form-fitting corset cover with build-in shoulders. arm (from the Latin brā associated with meaning "upper arm.

The First patented ‘Brassiere’ in 1914 .500.History The year 1913 saw the invention of what can truly be considered the modern bra by a 22-year old New York socialite named Mary Phelps Jacob. she was granted the first patent under her name ‘brassiere’ she sold the patent to the Warner Brothers Corset Company for $1. Her invention so impressed her female friends. it is estimated that the Warner Brothers Corset Company made $15 million by selling her invention. that they started making requests for their own. sheer dress for an upcoming night on the town. she found that her whale-bone corset was quite conspicuous through the fabric. Over the next 30 years. In 1914. effective. and used pink ribbon to create shoulder straps. and stylish as well. but to her dismay. Jacob had purchased a delicate. Jacob sewed two silk handkerchiefs together to form the support of the bra. Her solution was simple.

While filming The Outlaw.History Later famous invention include Howard Hughes’s cantilevered bra in 1943 using aeronautical engineering to uplift the contour of the bosom . Jane Russell in The Outlaw (Howard Hughes’s cantilevered bra) . The rods were connected to the bra's shoulder straps. The arrangement allowed the breasts to be pulled upward and made it possible to move the shoulder straps away from the neck. Hughes added rods of curved structural steel that were sewn into the brassiere below each breast.

But almost at the same time . the feminist demanded women burn their bras.History In 1950’s .Maidenform created ‘Chansonette’ – the famous bullet bra with its signature circular stitching In 1960 the first Wonderbra – a push-up plung bra was created by a canadian designer called Louise Poirier .This design was later featured in Madonna’s famous Gaultier’s twin peaks conical bra to be visible through the outerwear . Rudi Gernriech designed the ‘no bra’ bra which was made of see-through streatch netting with a natural transparent look In 1970 technical developments in garment moulding from one piece of elastane fabric were made which the lingerie industry was quick to adopt.French Couturier Jean – Paul Gaultier was even inspiring to turn underwear into outerwear with his cutting edge designes . In the 1980’s .

Bra Innovations in the 21st century The push up bra The Liquid Filled Bra.The Magic Bra The Adhesive Bra The Cosmetic Bra The Shape Memory Bra The Nami-Nami Bra –The T-Shirt Bra The Shakitto Bra The Sleeping Bra The Bioform Bra The Smart Bra The Techno Bra The Electronic Bra Protective cool guard for Sports Bra .

.The push up bra It was believed that the invention of the pushup bra was attributed to the aeronautical engineer Howard Hughes in 1943. The rigid steel allowed the breast to be pulled upwards. and for the shoulder straps to be moved away from the neck showing an exposed bosom curve. He fabricated a material with rods of curved structural steel that were sewn into the garment below each breast and connected to the shoulder straps. The push-up bra has as its unique feature the incorporation of underwire that lifts the breasts upward to present a deep cleavage between the breasts that contributes to making it a distinctive fashion silhouette.

The Liquid Filled Bra The Magic Bra The magic bra is a version of push-up bra that contains liquid filled pads inserted in the cups that support the breasts to fit them up. . The new invention was later brought to the lingerie industry and marketed as the ‘Magic Bra’. The differing breast weights created a constant displacement that massages the breast. It is like an implant that increases women’s bust size. This actually was invented in 1993 by Taiwanese inventor Aaron Ho who made the bra to help women recover after breast surgery. The Scottish MJM company invented a silicon based gel for its ‘Ultimo Bra’ after three years of experiments In contrast many other brands have their ‘Water Bra’ filled with a mixture of body oil and water.S developed an ‘Air Bra’ that can be inflated with an air pump like a bicycle tyre. many major lingerie brands have adopted the concept and launched different types of liquid filled bra . Later Fashion Forms in the U. He lined the bra cups with pads filled with oil and water. Because of its popularity. It makes the bra more comfortable than the traditional cleavage – creating contraptions.

hypoallergenic fabric. silicon pads.The Adhesive bra The adhesive bra or invisible bra is a pair of silicon-like. It sticks to the wearer’s breast by virtue of its adhesive concave surface creating a suction force that is supposed to make it stay in place. However consumer may develop itching. self adhesive cups connected at the front by a hook without the shoulder straps and band found on a conventional bra . strapless stick-on bras patented by Bragel are claimed to wearable 100 of times with proper care. softness. 100% rayon fabrics with air-holes or acrylic based double sided adhesive fabrics. It has become a fashion item worn with low neckline. even during motion.It may cover the whole of the bottom of the breast or just the nipples. The ‘Nubra’ adhesive backless. Desirable properties are lightness air-permeability. The commercial examples are polyfoam. comfort and reusability. blisters or rashes on hypersensitive skin. backless and bareshoulder clothing where the bra straps and components would otherwise be seen . . The quality and performance of the adhesive bras depends much on the material used.

Alternatively the ‘Silk protein bra’ exudes the smooth silk protein sericin and is charged with negative ions. Triumph new collection ‘body fusion’ and Playtex Second Skin Body Smoothing with Aloe Vera Underwire Bra are infused with moisturizing and antimicrobial properties of Aloe Vera. ‘Sea Cell’ is made from fabrics derived from natural seaweed which is rich in minerals. . vitamins and amino acids.The cosmetic bra Triumph international’s cosmetic bras are produced in a range of styles and materials for the Asia-Pacific market. Another type is the ‘Aloe Vera Bra’ also used for cosmetic purposes.

is the most popular shape memory alloy (SMA) that has been used for bra wires as it is soft and light in weight. Reheating it to the set temperatures automatically restores its original shapes even if it has been deformed severely. . Shape memory wires made of resin or plastic are preferred because they are softer. Wacoal uses resin wire for junior bras that give more stretch and snug fit for teenage girls . have a lower electrical conductance and reinforcement with very little likelihood of breaking. For example. It exhibits shape –memory and super elastic characteristics after being subjected to heat treatment. a mixture of titanium and nickel.The Shape memory bra TiNi.

This bonded bra is relatively light when compared with the existing cut-and-sewn designs and it is particularly good in applications where stretch as well as recovery are required to allow freedom of movement while remaining in place during exercise. readily cuttable textile that ensures the line of the undergarment is less visible through outer-garments .The T-Shirt Bra Adopting the new technology of film adhesive. This innovation was successful as it generated a new market and business. This seamless bra is completely glued together with a soft and highly elastic adhesive ‘Bemis’ film . This product features a novel knit and a newly developed. Wacoal developed the famous T-shirt Bra or ‘Nami Nami’in 2002. . Consequently the side and back of the bra as well as the cups are less visible when worn with close fitted summer clothes .The Nami Nami bra.

To achieve this.The Shakitto bra In autumn 2002. the ‘Shakitto bra’ was designed to tilt the spine by exerting pressure to the wearer’s side muscles. The Wacoal human Science research center studied the breathing of women and revealed that that the upright attitude occurs when the chest expands to take in a deep breath. Wacoal introduced the ‘Shakitto bra’ with added skeletal support to correct the wearer’s posture to a more upright attitude. This triangular architecture created a strong base to hold the bra firmly around the ribcage and assists the body to strand straight using the skeletal support concept and which stretches the back muscles naturally . the wing was reinforced by two bindings –one with a boned channel and the other at the angle of 45 degrees to support the bone structure at the wing seam. Using the concept.

While lying on the left side of the body. The Sleeping bra is made of anti-bacterial cotton lycra material free from any metal or resin. Based on the understanding of the breast movement during sleeping. Wacoal has invented a ‘Sleeping Bra’ that can lightly control the breast position in all directions. the breast spread out towards the arm. When lying flat on a bed. women’s breasts drop downward due to the force of the gravity. .The Sleeping bra When standing. by adding double layer to the surrounding of the bra cup. the right breast drop towards the sternum and slightly towards the neck direction. Moreover the material regulates the transfer of heat and moisture so as to ensure good sleeping quality. due to the weight of the breasts.

The Bioform Bra Industrial designers Powell and Seymour in 1998 . . Made of 39% polyamide. The bra claims to offer an impressive uplift without pinching under the armpit or leaving indents on your rib cage unlike conventional under-wired versions. Instead of an under-wire it contains a moulded wing made from reinforced polypropylene all housed within a bodyforming Elastomer cup. 15% viscose and 12% Elastane it is machine washable at 40 degrees . 34% polyester. attempted a radical redesign of bras for full-figure females.

The technology has resulted in a commercial prototype for active women who suffer from breast pain due to the displacement of breasts during motion. so as to offer instant customized support to match the movement. The ‘Smart Bra’ was made of a fabric with a coating of conducting polymer that made it contract when the strain on it passed a pre-set level. .The Smart Bra The Intelligent Polymer Research Institute at the University of Wollongong in Australia developed a ‘Smart Bra’ which could tighten its own straps if an energetic wearer needed extra support. The Conducting polymers were ‘doped’ with chemicals that changed their atomic structure so that they conducted electricity.

she had 30seconds to deactivate the bra if it was a false alarm. GPS (Global positioning System) locator and wireless phone. Several companies have expressed an interest in bringing the Technobra to market. Otherwise the GPS satellite received a signal. The Techno Bra will initially be aimed at women as a security device. the GPS system established the location and informed the police via the wireless phone.The Techno Bra The Techno Bra. All of which were discreetly concealed within removable gel pads. who provided the heart-monitoring sensors for the prototypes. The bra is made up of special fabric (electricity-conducting fabric) that transmits the wearer’s pulse to the monitor. . If the bra detected a rapid jump in heart rate.The battary and failsafe button were built into the front clasp and the electronics could be removed before laundering . but it could easily be adapted for patients with heart trouble or built into a T-shirt for use by women and men as an exercise monitor. Once the monitor detected a sudden change in the wearer’s heart beat. Featured a heart monitor. developed by Kirsty Groves. which is sensitive enough to distinguish between changes in heart rate induced by exercise and those resulting from fear. The fabric developed for use in filteration system was machine washable. The reasearch was supported by ProActiv. determined the location of the wearer and dispatched a text message to local police or to a close relative or friend’s phone. a design student at the Royal collage of Arts in London..

while being safer and cheaper. This allows doctor to build up a computer image that identifies the tissue. and sensitive measuring equipment picks this up. They hoped the technology could provide earlier warning of cancerous growths within the breast without the use of radiation. The concept was brilliant. . which they believe could be as effective. A reported the project has been discontinued. but the implication was more difficult than expected. The denser tissue in tumours makes it harder for the electricity to get through. but the research team is confident that tests on humans will prove the value of the device [34]. working on the principle that the differences between healthy breast tissue and tumour tissue affect the way the current gets through. or even more effective than traditional x-ray mammograms.The Electronic Bra Researchers at De Montfort University in England have invented an ‘electronic bra’ to detect cancer using electrical pulses. It uses tiny electrical currents which are passed through the breast. Researchers from De Montfort University in Leicester designed the bra. testing has been restricted to tissue samples in the laboratory. The bra contains electrodes that send tiny electrical currents to breasts. So far. By "scanning" the breast from many different angles. This states that the complete process of innovation is not so easy. a detailed map on which abnormal growth stands out can be constructed on a computer. Scientists have developed a cancer-scanning device which is worn as a bra and finds tumours with electrical pulses.

whilst also supplying support for the joggers. Martial arts. It was proved to reduce breast movements to below 20 mm after a test by participants who carried out a number of treadmills and field jogging exercises. It offers protection against painful knocks in contact sports such as Soccer.Protective Cool Guard for Sports Bra The Cool Guard sports bra is designed to support the female athlete’s breasts and lessen injury from contact. Dr. . Rugby. Stephen Legg. an Ergonomist at Massey University. Hockey. These cups are made from a lightweight and flexible polyethylene which is inserted inside the pocket over each bra cup lining. developed the protective ‘Cool Guard’as a sports bra. Football. The Breast is encapsulated rather than strapped down with a removable plastic cup.

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