Final of Trail Handbook-2

ST.
COLUMBA HERITAGE TRAIL

Resource Handbook
Written spring 2017
Walking in the Footsteps of Pilgrims

The Churches’ Trust – St. Columba Heritage Trail Handbook 2017
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PREFACE ............................................................................................................................................ 1
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ....................................................................................................................... 2
LEADING TOURS ON THE TRAIL .......................................................................................................... 3
OUTLINE OF TRAIL ROUTE ................................................................................................................. 4
DESCRIPTION OF TRAIL ROUTE .......................................................................................................... 5
WHO ARE THE CHURCHES’ TRUST? .................................................................................................... 6
CONTEXT OF THE TRAIL ..................................................................................................................... 7
THE STORY OF ST. COLUMBA ............................................................................................................. 8
TIMELINE OF ST. COLUMBA’S LIFE ................................................................................................... 15
PROFILES OF TRAIL SITES ................................................................................................................. 16
ST. BRECAN’S CHURCH................................................................................................................. 17
FIRST DERRY PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH .......................................................................................... 18
ST. AUGUSTINE’S CHURCH ........................................................................................................... 20
LONG TOWER CHURCH ................................................................................................................ 21
CARLISLE ROAD METHODIST CHURCH.......................................................................................... 22
OTHER SITES OF INTEREST ............................................................................................................... 24
ST. COLUMB’S CATHEDRAL .......................................................................................................... 25
ST. COLUMB’S PARK HOUSE......................................................................................................... 26
PEACE BRIDGE ............................................................................................................................. 26
THE CITY WALLS ........................................................................................................................... 27
ST. COLUMB’S WELL .................................................................................................................... 27
ÁRAS CHOLMCILLE ....................................................................................................................... 28
FURTHER RESOURCES ...................................................................................................................... 29
PREFACE
Welcome to the St. Columba Heritage Trail Resource Handbook. Within this handbook,
you will learn about St. Columba, the Heritage Trail commissioned by The Churches’ Trust,
and many stories of Derry~Londonderry, Ireland and the Christian traditions that have shaped
the spiritual landscape of this island for centuries. As you read it and learn about the
characters, the facts, and stories, allow the history to stir your imagination of the Derry that
once was, connecting in turn to the Derry~Londonderry of today and how it came to be.
Whilst it is important for you as a tour guide to know and understand the contents of
this handbook, you need not memorise it word for word. Focus your attention upon the
information that you connect to most. This will ensure that you explore the trail and lead tours
with passion and genuine interest. Enjoy the process of sharing information you personally
find exciting or inspiring, confusing, or even troubling.
This handbook is a resource of information collated for the reference of tour guides and
The Churches’ Trust for projects imparting the shared Christian heritage of the city. Whilst
this handbook holds a vast array of information that is relevant at any time, it is a working
document that can and should be added to and adapted for different audiences.
I hope you enjoy learning about this city and forming a picture of the ancient Oak
Grove which became the Maiden City, Stroke City and now LegenDerry.
Happy reading,
Kirsty McLaren
~Intern at the Churches’ Trust
© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 1 of 29

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Sincerest gratitude to all those involved in the creation of the St. Columba Heritage Trail
and the production of this resource handbook.
Project Partners The Funders

 St. Augustine’s Church
 St. Brecan’s Church  Department for Social Development
 Carlisle Road Methodist Church  Ilex
 First Derry Presbyterian Church  Arts Council
 Long Tower Church  Derry City and Strabane District
 Áras Cholmcille Council
 St. Columb’s Park House  Good Relations
Project Coordinators
Local Sources  The Churches’ Trust
 Martin Agnew The Design Team
 Ian Bartlett
 Tommy Carlin  Keys & Monaghan Architects
 Audrey Doak  Eleanor Wheeler – Artist
 Ivor Doherty  Niall Bruton – Artist
 Martin McCrossan Walking Tours  Brian Lacey – Historian
This handbook was written by Kirsty McLaren whilst interning with The Churches’ Trust.
Affiliated with INCORE and Ulster University, Kirsty studied Democracy and Social Change in
Northern Ireland on a HECUA study abroad programme. Studying peacebuilding and
reconciliation, the programme involved interning with the charity as a way of learning about
rebuilding trust in a deeply divided society.

LEADING TOURS ON THE TRAIL

Logistics of the Route and Your Commitment as Guide
Your role as guide requires many skills. Excellent tour guides are described as friendly,
punctual, knowledgeable, engaging, observant and flexible. Consider tours you have
participated in. What made the difference between a memorable tour and one that didn’t
impress you? Use your own experiences as a tourist and listener to educate how you guide
others in order to create a tour that participants will enjoy and learn from.
When leading a tour, it is important to remember some practical points to ensure every
individual can participate safely. The trail covers over 2 miles, crossing busy roads, navigating
the city walls and scaling small hills or steps at different locations. As guide, it is your
responsibility to ensure every person in the group can participate. There are accessibility
restrictions at some points of the trail which can be avoided using sloping walkways and
adapting the route, enabling everyone to participate. Ensure that you guide the whole group
through those changes, not singling out any individuals. For example, if an individual cannot
climb the stairs onto the walls, direct the whole group to the sloping walkway. Inform your
group at the beginning of the tour that comfort breaks can be incorporated on request. There
are several points on the trail where toilets can be used and seating and refreshments could
also be integrated if needed. If the group has an organiser/leader, discuss such options before
the tour to plan ahead.
At the beginning of the tour, welcome the group and introduce yourself. Be sure to ask
if everyone can hear you clearly. It is paramount that you project your voice so that all
participants can engage in the tour. Inform the group of the features of your guided walk along
the trail and be sure to warn the group of crossing roads. Ask the group where they come from
and how they heard about the trail. Forming a rapport with the group can have a significant
impact on their engagement in the information you share.
As storyteller and guide, you commit to share the stories you have been entrusted with
in an accurate and sensitive manner. It is your commitment to share correct information and
lead the group with integrity. Invite the group to ask questions, but when you do not know the
answer to a question, be honest. Encourage the group to learn more and find answers from
trusted sources. (See section with further reading) All the information you share must be
based upon the factual information. When faced with corrections or challenges from
participants, ensure that you are sensitive and respectful of different views. Any biases you
may hold must be abandoned during the course of your work as a tour guide. Disagreements
in historical accounts are common among scholars so do not fear a conflicting account of the
story you have shared. Again, encourage further research whilst assuring the group that you
share accounts from reliable sources. Finally, enjoy sharing the story of Derry~Londonderry
and St. Columba. You have the opportunity to teach groups about a place and person who have
had very important roles in the history of Ireland.

OUTLINE OF TRAIL ROUTE

St. Columb's St. Brecan's St. Columba
Peace Bridge
Park House Church Statue
First Derry
St. Augustine's St. Columb's
City Walls Presbyterian
Church Cathedral
Church
Hands Across Carlisle Road

St. Columb's Long Tower
the Divide Methodist
Well Church
Monument Church

DESCRIPTION OF TRAIL ROUTE

Instructions for Guiding Groups along the Trail Route
 Starting the Tour - Meet the tour group either in St. Columb’s Park House (access to
toilets and café) or in front of the statue of St. Columba.
 St. Brecan’s Church - If the group is able and the ground dry, walk up to St. Brecan’s
Church to look closer at the ruin. On the way back down the hill, point out the trail
artwork. Walk up to the statue of Columba before leaving the park.
 Walk to the Peace Bridge - Walk from St. Columb’s Park along the drive or across the
grassy area (If dry) towards Ebrington Square. Walking down St. Columb’s Road, take
a left and walk to the square. Before walking over the Peace Bridge, stop to show the
trail artwork on the right.
 Walk to the Walls - Once over the Foyle River, cross to Guildhall Square and walk
towards Magazine Gate. Walk up Magazine Street and onto the walls.
 Walk to First Derry Presbyterian Church - Continue walking up the walls until First
Derry Presbyterian Church. Bring the group closer to look through the gates at the trail
artwork.
 Walk to St. Augustine’s Church - From First Derry Presbyterian Church, walk back
onto the walls and up to St. Augustine’s. Here point out the trail artwork, the oldest
dated tombstone and enter the church. (Open during summer months)
 Walk to St. Columb’s Cathedral (Optional addition to route) - From St. Augustine’s,
walk along the Grand Parade and either follow the wall around the corner to St.
Columb’s Cathedral or walk to Bishop Street, walking past the Verbal Arts Centre. At
Bishop Street, if avoiding the walls, turn left and take first right onto St. Columb’s
Court, walking into the cathedral grounds.
 Walk to Long Tower Church and Áras Cholmcille – Return to Bishop Street and walk
through the gate, following the road straight. Turn right down Longtower Street,
following the road to Long Tower Church. Here, point out the trail artwork, the
Calvary and Bullaun stone, as well as looking inside the church. If open, enter Áras
Cholmcille and encourage the group to explore the exhibition.
 Walk to St. Columb’s Well (Optional addition to route) - Head back towards the city
walls from Long Tower, take a left off Bishop’s Street Without onto Nailor Street.
Follow Nailors’ Row to the bottom of the hill and turn right along Leckey Road towards
a row of white houses on the near side of the main road. The well is among these
houses, on the row called St Columb’s Wells.
 Walk to Carlisle Road Methodist Church - From Long Tower Church, walk onto
Barrack Street and follow up the hill, crossing the road and continuing straight along
Abercorn Street. Walk down the hill to the round-about where the Hands across the
Divide Monument is located. From here, walk up Carlisle Road to the Methodist Church
on the right. If pre-arranged, take the group inside for a look around.

WHO ARE THE CHURCHES’ TRUST?

The Churches’ Trust is an interdenominational organisation established by leaders of
the four dominant Christian churches in Derry~Londonderry over twenty years ago to respond
to deprivation in the area. We support local people in crisis, respecting their dignity at all
times, whilst signposting them to community groups and other agencies to address
circumstances leading to the crisis situation.
Our vision can be split into two separate goals. One is to address deprivation and social
injustice, working with people at the margins of society and the other is to stand together with
a united voice in an area plagued with the legacy of division through the troubles in Northern
Ireland, aiming to create a shared and better future for all. Our aim is to fight against all forms
of deprivation in the community and to ensure a future where nobody feels isolated or alone.
Hence,
STANDING TOGETHER WITH THOSE IN NEED

Our mission is ‘To proactively enhance and support the economic, social and cultural
development of all communities in a Christian way within the North West region.’
Our Goals for the Future:

1. To proactively enhance and support the economic, social and cultural development of all
our communities within the North West region
2. To develop and provide quality services that tackle deprivation and disadvantage focusing
on social inclusion, equality of opportunity, and improving community relations
3. To promote a more united, shared and cohesive society working in collaboration with
churches from various faith traditions, schools and a diverse range of community groups

CONTEXT OF THE TRAIL

The St. Columba Heritage Trail was commissioned by the
Churches’ Trust as part of our contribution to the cultural
heritage and life of the city and to celebrate City of Culture.
A sculpture of the Saint, by artist Niall Bruton, is

located in St. Columb’s Park at the start of the trail. He is
depicted releasing a dove, the symbol of peace, which has
been adopted as the trail’s logo.
The St. Columba Heritage Trail embodies the essence of

The Churches’ Trust, enabling us to articulate key messages from
our Christian forefathers, to celebrate a common Christian Heritage, and to provide this city
with an opportunity for reflection and healing – a symbolic linking of this divided city.
‘The St. Columba Heritage Trail Links the past with the present and provides an opportunity to
reflect and heal the division and hurt in our community. Embark on an educational and historic
journey through a new chapter in our city’s history.’
Board of Directors, Churches’ Trust
Project Aims and Objectives

The City of Derry~Londonderry has a rich Christian Heritage with Saint Columba
recognised as patron Saint of the City. This unifying figure and the surrounding rich heritage
brings our communities together through the symbolic linking of East and West banks via the
Trail. It links the past with the present and provides an opportunity to reflect and heal the
division and hurt in our community. The trail also contributes to good relations in the City,
addresses the shared safe space agenda through cultural animation of the public realm, and
enhances tourism.
Leaving a Legacy
The St. Columba Heritage Trail is highly symbolic as it utilises the Peace Bridge and
part of the walls, believed to be the original pilgrims’ trail into the city. The Trail offers
something unique among the range of guided tours in our City – this is the only one that
focuses on the City’s shared Christian heritage.
The footsteps of reflection and healing signal a new chapter for the citizens of this City as well
as celebrating our shared heritage. The Trail connects the past with the present and articulates
the aspirations for the future.

THE STORY OF ST. COLUMBA

Cholmcille – ‘Dove of the Church’

THE STORY OF ST. COLUMBA

Cholmcille - The Dove of the Church
Holy-man, explorer, miracle-worker,
politician, liberator, artist, poet – Saint Columba
(Latin) also known as Cholmcille (Gaelic) has been
called many things, and has been written about by
many different people from all over the world due
to the widespread influence and legacy of his life.
Here in Derry~Londonderry, he is claimed as the
patron saint and founder of the city, but his life had
a far-reaching influence beyond the maiden city.
The Historical Figure:

There is more evidence of the life of St. Columba than St. Patrick, patron saint of
Ireland, yet the historical figure of Columba is difficult to authenticate. The many different
written accounts of Columba’s life have resulted in many interpretations and portrayals of who
Columba was and what he did. One single empirical account of his life cannot be gained from
the many sources of history. In the centuries that have elapsed since his death on the 9th of
June, 597 C.E., Columba’s story has become confused, with fact and fiction written side by side.
Myths and legends about Columba are woven amongst
the provable realities of his life. Connections with St.
Despite the confused history and contradicting Patrick:
accounts of St. Columba, his life offers many interesting Columba’s grandfather Connall is
stories and inspiring lessons for the contemporary said to have been baptised by St.
individual to learn from. This account of Columba offers a Patrick. Born approximately 30
collection of some of the most significant and influential years after St. Patrick had died,
events in his life and in the context of his time-period in Columba lived in the legacy of
Ireland and the world. another man of God whose actions
would shape Columba’s own
Early Life: ministry in Ireland and beyond.
St. Columba was born in Gartan, Donegal, in 520
or 521 C.E. He was born of aristocratic blood, as his father, Fedelmid, and mother, Eithne, were
both born of families with power and influence. His mother was a princess of Leinster, and his
father was of the clan of Gartan, a reigning family of Ireland and the kingdom of Dalriada
(what is now western Scotland).
Cholmcille was actually baptised Crimthann (translated as fox, possibly due to the
colour of his hair) at Temple Douglas, but was later given the name Cholmcille (dove of the
church) due to his devotion to prayer and attending the church from a young age. Over time,
he has often been referred to as Columba, which also means ‘dove of the church’ in Latin.
Today, many churches and schools are named after the saint, giving him fame via his Latin
name.

Monastic Student Years:

It was customary in Ireland during the 6th century that noble families would place their
first son into education in the church, where he would be trained and educated in scripture
and other important writings. Therefore, Columba entered training in several influential
monasteries, living in monastic communities under the training of historically notable Saints.
His first place of learning was the monastic
The Psalter:
school of Movilla (Newtownards) where he arrived
once he had advanced sufficiently in his letters. On returning from Rome, St.
There he studied under the bishop St. Finnian who Finnian had brought back a prized
had travelled on the continent and in Italy. Latin Psalter. This precious
manuscript would become a source
After becoming a deacon, Columba moved
of contention and conflict between
on from Movilla and went to learn from an aged
Columba and Finnian later in life,
bard named Gemman in Leinster. Gemman taught
after his time at Movilla.
him of the Druid class of the Bardi, or Poets, and
Columba learned of the poetic traditions of Ireland
and developed his own love for writing and poetry. Columba always possessed a love of the
poetic traditions of his homeland.
Saying farewell to Gemman, Columba joined
the influential monastery of Clonard (Co. Meath), the
most celebrated of Irish monastic schools, where he
learned from another Finnian, a learned scholar who
had studied under prominent saints in Wales. Here
Columba was eventually ordained a monk and priest.
Columba journeyed to Glasnevin to finish his
studies at St. Mobhi’s school, however his education
abruptly ended due to an outbreak of the Yellow
Plague. This fierce disease had caused many deaths
in other parts of Europe during 543-4 C.E. It is
thought that the Yellow Plague was the same disease
that would cause a third of Europe’s population to
die in the Late Middle ages, a calamity famously
named the Black Death. Columba fled north to
escape from the disease and upon crossing the Bior
(Moyola River), Columba prayed that the water
would mark the northernmost limit of the outbreak,
preventing further deaths and the risk to his
homeland.

The Founding of Derry:

The Island of Derry:
Columba established the first of his
monasteries along the river Foyle where the city Derry was once an island in the Foyle due
of Derry is now located. He was granted land by to the higher waters of the river. What is
a provincial king who had named the site Daire now called The Bogside was once actually
Calgaich (Oak Wood of Calgaich). Columba had a bog where the waters had receded and
great respect for the oaks that covered his new the land was slowly reclaimed.
settlement and chose to build his monastery in a
natural clearing at the top of the island to avoid cutting any down. Possibly due to instruction
from Gemman, Columba knew of the ancient holiness of the oaks which were sacred to the
pagan religions of the land. In early Celtic Christianity, respect for nature and the traditions of
one’s surroundings was very important.
Columba protected the oaks diligently. On
one occasion, when the grove caught fire, Columba
knelt in prayer, petitioning for God to save the trees.
The fire was put out and it is still a myth in the city
that Derry will never burn down and that no one in
the city will ever be killed by lightening.
Doire (‘The place of the oak’ or the ‘oak
grove’) was believed to always be Columba’s
favourite settlement, even declaring on his death bed
in Iona, “I leave my soul to Derry”.
The Quarrel at Movilla:

Whilst remembered as a holy and god-fearing man, St. Columba was involved in some
serious conflicts. The most notable and serious of these was caused by a copyright scandal!
During his time with St. Finnian at Movilla, he secretly copied the saint’s valuable Psalter. This
long and arduous process of writing out the Psalter in the monastery scriptorium was
discovered by Finnian who demanded that Columba grant him the copy. The Psalter was his,
so should the copy be, he argued. Columba stubbornly withheld it. The disagreement resulted
in the involvement of The King of Ireland, Dairmiad mac
The Cathach: Cearuill, the High King of Erin. St Finnian appealed to the
St. Columba’s copy of St.
king to make a judgement on who the copy should belong
Finnian’s Psalter was enclosed
to. The king judged in favour of Finnian, decreeing what is
in the Cathach (Battle-book)
said to be the first ever law of copyright, “To every cow her
to enshrine the manuscript.
The O’Donnell clan carried calf, and every book its copy.”
the book into battle for over Angered by the king’s ruling, Columba gained the
one thousand years to bring
support of his own people in Tir Conaill (Co. Donegal) who
victory to their people.
came to fight against the king’s forces in The Battle of Cuil

Dreimne. (Co. Sligo) The king was mightily defeated by

Columba, yet the consequences of the battle were severe
and long lasting. Not only did many fighters die,
Columba would have to face personal consequences that
would shape the rest of his life.
The Synod of Teltown:

After the king’s defeat, he called the Synod of
Teltown, attempting to excommunicate Columba. The
consequence for killing an opponent’s men in battle was
that each person killed equalled the payment of ten
cows, the currency of wealth at the time. Estimates of
the death-count at the battle range from 400 to 3,000, placing Columba in deep debt with the
king. However, Columba never made the payment for those killed in the four day battle.
Ultimately, instead of complete excommunication,

Columba was exiled from Ireland. Accounts differ as to
whether he was exiled by the Synod, by his friend St.
Molaise of Inismurray (Co. Sligo) or if Columba’s own
conscience forced him to leave his beloved home.
Whichever cause, Columba left Ireland, pledging to
never set foot in his homeland again. Taking with him
twelve disciples, St. Columba set sail in a currach and
determined to win as many souls for Christ as had been
murdered in battle.
Despite pledging (or being sentenced) to never return to

Ireland, many years later, Columba did return for the
convention of Druim Cett. (Co. Londonderry)
Exile to Scotland: Columba’s Miracles:

On leaving his beloved home in The blessing of the sign of the cross was used very
563 C.E., Columba headed to Dalriada, frequently by Columba to perform miracles and expel
the Irish kingdom in Scotland. The evil forces. In his monastery, all the pails used to carry
King of Dalriada granted Cholmcille milk were first blessed to be rid of the devils inside
protection and permission to settle in before milk was poured inside. On one occasion, a boy
his land, giving him a small island to was bringing a pail of milk to Columba and as the saint
blessed it, the pail tipped over and the milk poured over
the far West of his kingdom called Hy.
the ground. Columba gently reprimanded the boy,
The island later became known as
proclaiming that the devil had not been forced out before
Iona, or the holy island. the milk had been poured in, and so the blessing of
Arriving on the island, Columba had forced the milk out as the devil had
Columba ensured no view of Ireland escaped. By blessing the now empty pail once more,
miraculously, the milk was gathered back into the pail!
could be gained and then began to

build his new settlement on Iona. Columba and his twelve fellow monks established a
monastery on the island and began to live self-sufficient lifestyles through farming. Alongside
praying alone and as a community several times a day, the monks were busied maintaining the
land and copying manuscripts in the scriptorium, writing with quill and velum (a calf skin
stretched and scraped for use as a page for writing). It is believed that the famous Book of
Kells, now located in Dublin’s Trinity College, was started by monks on Iona and then finished
in Kells at a later date.
Columba’s Miracles:
The first ever story told of the famous Loch Ness Monster
was written by Adamnan in his account of St. Columba’s
life. Whilst travelling the perilous 100 mile journey by boat
from Iona to Inverness in order to speak to the pagan King
of the Picts, King Bridei, some locals complained to
Columba about a monster in the river. He ordered one of
his men into the water and the monster appeared, ready to
attack. Immediately, Columba made the sign of the cross
and ordered the beast away and it retreated into the loch.
The Pict people were amazed at the power of the Christian
God demonstrated by Columba. This and many other
miracles performed by the saint were instrumental in
convincing the pagan people of the power of this other god.
Columba carried the message of Christ across ethnic, cultural, religious and political
divides. He brought unification between enemy peoples through the church. Columba was a
charismatic character who drew people to himself through his leadership as well as his holy
life. Many people travelled to Iona to become a part of the community or to receive blessings
and advice from Columba. He gained political influence as rulers sought his advice.
All the while his monastery grew in number and influence on Iona, Columba thought of
Pictland. Outside the lands of Dalriada was a dark, ominous land where the Picts ruled, a
barbaric and pagan people. They remained in the Iron Age and had never been conquered by
the Romans. Hadrian’s Wall had been built by
the Romans to protect Britannia from the
Columba and Human Rights: Picts. The illiterate people used pictorial
Like St. Patrick, Columba was adamantly images to communicate and share their
opposed to slavery. He fought for the oppressed stories and were notoriously hostile towards
to be treated with equality and respect. other peoples.
Columba has also been seen as an early figure
who fought for the rights of women. Columba’s Columba broke through the hostility
respect for women was not standard in other of the Picts using the remarkable power of
cultures, such as in the Roman world. miracles. They could not deny the blatant
power of Columba’s God. Attempting to reach
more of the people, Columba travelled to the King of the Picts, but the doors were barred

against him. Making the sign of the

cross, he opened them to enter into the Columba and Kings:
king’s stronghold. He claimed that his There are many connections that can be made
King was more powerful than the king between Columba and the broader history of the
of the Picts. This sign of power United Kingdom. It is said that he revolutionised
impressed the Pict King and gave him the concept of kingship in his time, as now, the
no choice but to respect Columba and people looked to the church for the establishment of
his God, even if he would not convert. their rulers. Christianity and monarchical rule
Picts began to convert on mass and would become linked through Columba, a legacy we
evidence of the transitioning of their still see today in the Monarchy of Great Britain.
identity and beliefs is seen on the
standing stones and other pictorial images they created during the time.
Final Years:
In his later life, Columba was said to have become more deeply connected to God and
the spiritual realm than ever before, filled with love and radiating holy light. Reaching the end,
he saw visions of angels beckoning him to heaven. It is said that as Columba was approaching
death, his white horse, who had carried him faithfully for many years, came to lay his head on
Columba’s lap, shedding tears for his kind master. The saint breathed his last lying at the altar
in his monastery on Iona, surrendering his soul to heaven as he blessed the monks who
surrounded him. Columba’s life ended on the 9th of June,
597 C.E. but his mission continued and his legacy lives
on.
Columba’s Legacy:
Columba is famous as the saint who brought
Christianity to the whole of Scotland, reaching peoples
who had never before heard the gospel message. Those
who claim Columba as the patron saint of Derry give
little mention to the influence Columba had beyond the
shores of Ireland, yet some of his most important and
influential work is argued to be his achievements in
Scotland. Iona is still a central and significant location of
Christian tradition and of pilgrimage today. The life of
Columba has had many and various influences on the
religious, political and cultural landscapes of Ireland and
the wider world. Many centuries on, we can learn much
from his life as we move forward from sectarian division
into recognition of our shared story and heritage.

TIMELINE OF ST. COLUMBA’S LIFE
563 C.E. Columba’s
Student of 546 C.E.
Excommunication
Gemman in Founding of
Establishment of 597 C.E.
Leinster Doire/Derry
Iona Monastery Death on
521 C.E. Born St. Mobhi’s Battle of Cuil
Iona
in Gartan, School and the Dreimne
County Yellow Plague
Donegal
Movilla under Granted Land for

Bishop Finnian First Monastery The Synod of
Teltown
Quarrel Conversion of
Joined Monastery of
between the Picts
Clonard under Finnian Journey to
Finnian and
Columba Iona

PROFILES OF TRAIL SITES
Information about Each Site of the Trail

ST. BRECAN’S CHURCH
St. Columb’s Park
The first stop on the trail is the ancient ruin
of St. Brecan’s Church. The original church was Monk and Fisherman:
destroyed by Normans in 1197, then rebuilt by St. Brecan originated from Rathlin
Redmond O’ Gallagher, Bishop of Derry, in 1585. Island and came to Derry when he
Whilst commonly known as St. Brecan’s, it is still a was appointed to source fish for the
matter of dispute as to whether the church is local people. It is said that when he
associated with St. Brecan or St. Columba. It is started to fish, he walked to the edge
thought that St. Brecan was influenced by St. of the River Foyle, threw out his nets,
Columba, following his example as he established and caught two-hundred salmon!
further monasteries. There may have been a link
between the two saints but no connection has been proven.
The monastery of St. Brecan, like other monasteries, would have been a small plot
surrounded by a wooden stockade. A second stockade would be built for animals outside of the
monks’ living spaces. Though the monks separated themselves from the wider world, they had
to maintain some ties for their survival. They depended upon local people to bring resources of
food and other essentials to their communities.
St. Brecan’s is located in St. Columb’s Park, a public park which was once the private
grounds of a plantation house, built in the 17th Century. The land was bought in 1845 and
converted into a public space by the Londonderry Corporation. Today the park and house are
community facilities. St. Columb’s Park House is now an activity, conference and reconciliation
centre, working to rebuild connections in a divided society.

FIRST DERRY PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH

Upper Magazine Street
Presbyterianism came to Contentious Symbols:
Derry in the early 1600s after the
Inside First Derry Presbyterian Church, there are
Flight of the Earls and the arrival of many stained glass windows which have come from
settlers from Scotland. First Derry is different Presbyterian churches from around the
the only Presbyterian Church inside region. One window in particular has been a source
the city walls. It was originally built in of contention. The image of Christ in the window
1690 when Queen Mary gave a has many similarities to the icons of Christ in the
Catholic tradition. These similarities have caused
substantial gift to thank the
people to question the window’s place in the
Presbyterians in the city for their part church, wondering why a Catholic image would
in defending Derry during the siege of have any place in a Protestant church. This
1689. The current building dates from controversy about the symbol of Christ reveals how
1780, but the congregation is believed important yet divisive symbols can become when
to have been worshipping since 1640, claimed by one tradition or another. The story of
Saint Columba is a rare symbol in the Christian
named the Congregation of First
heritage of Derry and Ireland as Columba has been
Derry. Behind the church today is the shared by both Protestant and Catholic traditions,
Blue Coat School Visitor Centre which even gaining the position of patron saint of Derry,
tells the story of Presbyterians in the claimed by the non-religious as well.
city of Derry.
Today, the building is open to visitors as well as worshippers after being closed for
many years for an extensive refurbishment project. Dry rot was discovered in the roof and
evidence of the conflict in Derry was plain to see on the building. During the troubles, the
church, a Protestant building on the edge of the predominantly Catholic Bogside, was easily
targeted by vandals. The money provided to renovate the church depended upon the approval

of Sinn Fein leader Martin McGuinness, from the

Spiritual Roots:
Bogside. When the deputy first minister entered
When the Presbyterian Scots settled in the church with Rev. David Latimer, they made a
Derry, they were returning to the first cup of coffee and inspected the severe damage.
settlement of their spiritual forefather, St.
Seeing the poor state of the church, Martin
Columba, who brought the Gospel to
Scotland when he was exiled to Iona. McGuinness signed the release of 1.5 million in
funds for refurbishments, declaring that he had
Recognising this shared heritage between
never had a cup of coffee that cost him so much
the natives of Derry and the settlers from
Scotland provides a connection between money. The church reopened in 2011 fully
divided communities. restored.

ST. AUGUSTINE’S CHURCH

Palace Street
Gravestones:
Known locally as the ‘Wee Church on
the Walls’, St. Augustine’s Church claims to be The oldest dated gravestone in the
located on the site of St. Columba’s original Church’s cemetery (1604) can be seen on
settlement from 546 C.E. the right side of the church, leaning
against the wall. It is a darker shade
Located on one of the highest points in than the other standing gravestones and
Derry, it is said that Columba built his first a carven image of a skull and crossbones
monastery on a site which could be defended, can be seen on its face. Many famous
with a view up the Foyle River. Columba built graves are located in this graveyard.
in a natural clearing in the oak grove to avoid
destroying any of the trees. This could explain the unconventional positioning of the church.
Normally, Anglican churches face East to West, but St. Augustine’s faces NE to SW due to the
shape of the original clearing Columba found.
After the construction of Temple Mor (Long Tower), in 1164 C.E., the ancient church
became known as the Dubh Regles (The Black Church). Later, the church was destroyed by Sir
Henry Docwra and the stones were used for building the city walls. One remaining stone lies
within the finishing stone of St. Columb’s Cathedral. The current church was built in 1872,
consecrated by Bishop William Alexander (husband of famous hymn writer, Frances Cecil
Alexander).
The small and beautiful site of St. Augustine’s features several pieces of Trail artwork
which integrate elements of the architecture of the church, as well as symbols of the era it was
built, the oak leaf and the dove.

LONG TOWER CHURCH

18 Pump Street
Long Tower Church preserves a strong respect for St. Columba as its spiritual father,
claiming status as the site of both the Teampall Mor (Great Church) and the ancient Dubh
Regles (Black Church). As previously mentioned, St. Augustine’s is often considered to be the
official site of Columba’s ancient monastery, however there is contention over this claim,
because categorical proof has not been found for either St. Augustine’s or Long Tower as
Columba’s original settlement. The claim holds deep meaning for both churches and is a
source of sensitivity between the Anglican and Catholic traditions on the two sites, as
surrendering their claim would be to concede their connection to an important heritage which
both communities draw from.
Trail Artwork:
Despite the contention, whether Long Tower or
St. Augustine’s is proved to be the ancient site or not, Within the Long Tower Church
grounds, there is a series of seven
they both serve as significant monuments to the life of a
ceramic reliefs which depict
very important figure in the history of Derry.
stories from St. Columba’s life.
Long Tower Church was built in 1783, a far Local primary school children
smaller structure than the present church, standing as a were involved in the process of
single rectangular shape, as opposed to the cross-like designing artwork for the Trail,
basing their ideas on themes of
structure of today.
friendship and peace.
Before the church was built, Father John Lynch
said mass near a hawthorn tree which marked the site of the Teampall Mor (Great Church) of
the 12th century. Celebrating mass outside under hawthorn trees was common during the 18th
century, because the penal laws in Ireland prevented Catholics from practicing their faith in
many public spaces. Towards the end of the century however, these penal laws relaxed under
the influence of the liberal views of the Protestant Bishop of Derry, Frederick Augustus Hervey,
Earl of Bristol. Sensing that the political climate would be favourable to his venture, Father
Lynch began raising funds to build a church. Funds flowed in from the Corporation and from
Bishop Hervey himself, and
the building commenced. In
1810, enlargements of Long
Tower were led by Charles
O’Donnell, Dean of the
Diocese, and since then, more
additions and improvements
have been made to the
beautiful building.

CARLISLE ROAD METHODIST CHURCH

Carlisle Road
Though Carlisle Road Methodist Church is
not located on the pilgrim’s trail as the other three Riders Carrying Christ:
churches are, the Methodist church is another vital Wesley is said to have travelled many
part of Derry’s shared Christian heritage. miles on horseback in Ireland
Methodism is another piece of the story of faith carrying his message of justification
that has shaped the spiritual landscape of Derry through faith. St. Columba also
and wider Ireland. carried out much of his work by
travelling on the back of his trusted
John Wesley, the co-founder of Methodism, white steed. The two men
journeyed to Derry on four separate occasions, demonstrated much strength as
initially in 1765, staying on Magazine Street. missionaries who purposed to bring a
Methodism had already been established in Derry message of hope and love to the lost.
by Thomas Williams when Wesley arrived, yet
before the conversion of an eminent citizen of Derry, Alexander Knox, the congregation was
small and poor. Wesley, on visits to the Methodist community in Derry, noted the cold and
small Society. However, over time, the small number grew to become one of the four dominant
church denominations in Ireland.
The church changed locations throughout its history in Derry, located on Magazine
Street, Linenhall Street, on East Wall, and finally on Carlisle Road. The foundation stone of
Carlisle Road was laid on the 6th of August 1901 by the Duchess of Abercorn and opened in May
1903 as what was named the ‘most beautiful church in Irish Methodism’.
Since that time, the church has faced many struggles as the demographic of the city
changed during the troubles, when many Protestant families left the City-side to live on the
Waterside or surrounding towns. Many Protestant churches closed in Derry during the
conflicts but Carlisle Road remained. Withstanding the risks of the violence in Derry during the
1970s, the church congregation endured at Carlisle Road but shrank considerably as families
left for their own safety. In the dark times of conflict, the church not only fought to endure as a
congregation, it also reached out to rebuild trust in the community. There was one particular
occasion of serious gunfire
which prompted Rev.
George Morrison and the
leaders of three other local
churches to make a gesture
of peace that transcended
religious divides. Journeying
into the Bogside and the
Fountain, they offered
comfort and pleaded for an
end to violence and conflict.
The church has
played a significant role in

maintaining the presence of the Methodist church in Derry, refusing to give up during the
darkest period of religious and political division.
Methodism was characterised as a movement which spoke up for the rights of ordinary
people and preached the gospel in a comprehensible way to people who felt alienated and
marginalised by the church. For many years, Carlisle Road has been working to offer aid to the
homeless through the Methodist City Mission, and provided food for over 5,000 armed service
personnel weekly during the Second World War. Since its establishment, the church has
embodied the mission of being friends of all, enemies of none.

OTHER SITES OF INTEREST

Local History and Important Locations

ST. COLUMB’S CATHEDRAL

London Street Names have Meaning:
Built in 1633 by order of The Why would the London guilds name the cathedral after an
Honourable The Irish Society, St. Columb’s Irish saint? Honouring a name of importance to the
Cathedral was the first Protestant London merchants, such as St. George (patron saint of
Cathedral in the British Isles built after the England), would be more understandable. It is possible
Reformation and is Derry’s oldest that they chose Columba as a way to pay tribute to the
surviving building. traditions of the city and the Irish people who lived there,
however this seems unlikely as they seldom showed
The site has no direct link with St. respect to the Irish and their heritage. Another reason
Columba but as a Church of Ireland could be that they wanted to appease the natives,
Cathedral, it is linked with nearby St. attempting to relieve tensions between peoples to prevent
Augustine’s Church, the claimed site of uprisings or dissent. Whatever the reason, St. Columb’s
Columba’s first settlement and monastery. has been a site of religious importance in Derry ever since
it was built, and stands tall today, the impressive spire
Inside St. Columb’s, the finishing seen towering above its surroundings.
stone, crediting the work of the London
merchants, encases a smaller stone from the 12th century, which originated from the site upon
which St. Augustine is built. This is claimed to have been a part of the Black Church which was
built on that site.
The cathedral interior possesses several ornate homages to its namesake, St. Columba.
His carven figure stands in the front panel of the pulpit, his face is illustrated in a mosaic at the
back of the altar, and one stained glass
window tells the story of St. Columba
in three scenes depicting significant
moments in his life.
St. Columb’s has worked to

bring healing to the deep cuts of
division in Derry, a legacy of the
troubles which began in the city nearly
five decades ago. In recent history, the
cathedral has played an important part
in uniting Derry, acting as a shared
space where people of all backgrounds
are welcomed. Engaging in
transformative cross-community
dialogue, St. Columb’s has reached out
the hand of peace to rebuild
relationships between local churches
and communities.

ST. COLUMB’S PARK HOUSE

The Heart in the Park
St Columb’s Park House opened as a peace and reconciliation centre in 1994 offering a shared
space for learning, leadership and peaceful
activism. Their mission is to be the heart of the
park, helping to nurture peaceful, vibrant and
compassionate communities. The house offers
a safe and neutral venue, delivering a range of
outreach projects, conference facilities, a
modern café, and accommodation for group
residentials.
PEACE BRIDGE
Connecting the City and Symbolising Unity
Launched June 25th 2011, the Peace Bridge is a project funded by the European Union’s
PEACE III programme, the Shared Space
Initiative. The £14.5 million structure has
quickly become one of the most iconic
images of the city of Derry, connecting the
Waterside to the City-side and changing the
way the city is perceived by tourists and
residents alike. Built and managed by Ilex,
the bridge has been a significant part of
Derry~Londonderry’s regeneration
programme.

THE CITY WALLS

The Necklace of the City
In 1613-1618, The Honourable The Irish Society built the famous Derry walls to defend
the city from attack. At 1.5km, the circumference of the walls represents the only remaining
completely walled city in Ireland. Twenty-
four restored cannon are displayed around
the walls, many fired during the sieges of the
17th century. Over the centuries, the walls
have played a key role in shaping the city’s
history, for both good and bad. Today, the
City walls are celebrated by local people and
tourists alike as the necklace that surrounds
the city, instead of the millstone around its
neck, as it was characterised at other periods
of the city’s history.
ST. COLUMB’S WELL

Sites of Blessing
It is said that when a child was
brought to Columba for baptism, no water
could be found and the Saint blessed a
nearby stone, causing water to flow from it.
Blessing in the name of the Father, Son and
Holy Spirit, Columba transformed the site
into a place of pilgrimage where people
came to use the water for protection and
healing – particularly for diseases of the
eyes. On Columba’s saint’s day, the 9th of
June, a procession still blesses the well and
prays for protection for those who follow
St. Columba. The pump now located on the
site dates from 1897.

ÁRAS CHOLMCILLE
St. Columba Heritage Centre
Located in the grounds of the Long Tower Church, Áras Cholmcille has a similar
purpose to the Trail itself, seeking to share
the heritage of Derry’s founder. They
recognise Columba’s story as a history that
can be shared by all people of Derry,
irrespective of identity, faith, or political
affiliation. The Centre is located in the
restored ‘Wee Nuns’ School’, built in 1813.
It provides a perfect location for people of
all ages to learn about St. Columba and the
story of Derry.

FURTHER RESOURCES
As a tour guide, you will come across more and more questions from the individuals
who engage in the trail. This handbook is a starting point for you to begin, to spark your
interest and propel you into further research about St. Columba, the city of Derry, and the
broader histories of Ireland, early Celtic Christianity, and the four main churches which are
part of the trail. Use the following resources to begin your deeper reading and learning.
Written Resources
Adamnan, and Reeves, W. (1874). Life of Saint Columba. 1st ed. Edinburgh: Edmonston and
Douglas.
Fawcett, F. (1963). Columba. 1st ed. Londonderry, Northern Ireland: Derry Standard.
Lacey, B. (2013). Saint Columba. 1st ed. Blackrock: Columba Press.
Lacey, B. (2013). Medieval and monastic Derry. 1st ed. Ireland: Four Courts Press Ltd.
Online Resources
http://www.stcolumbaheritagetrail.org/
https://www.discovernorthernireland.com
http://ccea.org.uk/colmcille/index.php
www.colmcille.org/stcolumba/
http://longtowerchurch.org/
http://www.northumbriacommunity.org/articles/monasticism-the-heart-of-celtic-
christianity/
http://www.ulsterheritage.com/history/saint_columba.htm
http://www.askaboutireland.ie/reading-room/digital-book-collection/digital-books-by-
subject/irish-people/smith-the-life-of-st.-col/index.xml
http://www.visitderry.com/Walled-City-Heritage-Trail-A513
http://www.donegaldiaspora.ie/people/colmcille
http://www.stcolumbaheritage.org/

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ST.

COLUMBA HERITAGE TRAIL

Walking in the Footsteps of Pilgrims

~Intern at the Churches’ Trust

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 1 of 29

Project Partners The Funders

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 2 of 29

LEADING TOURS ON THE TRAIL

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 3 of 29

OUTLINE OF TRAIL ROUTE

Hands Across Carlisle Road

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DESCRIPTION OF TRAIL ROUTE

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WHO ARE THE CHURCHES’ TRUST?

STANDING TOGETHER WITH THOSE IN NEED

Our Goals for the Future:

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 6 of 29

CONTEXT OF THE TRAIL

A sculpture of the Saint, by artist Niall Bruton, is

The St. Columba Heritage Trail embodies the essence of

Project Aims and Objectives

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 7 of 29

THE STORY OF ST. COLUMBA

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 8 of 29

THE STORY OF ST. COLUMBA

The Historical Figure:

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 9 of 29

Monastic Student Years:

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 10 of 29

The Founding of Derry:

The Quarrel at Movilla:

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 11 of 29

Dreimne. (Co. Sligo) The king was mightily defeated by

The Synod of Teltown:

Ultimately, instead of complete excommunication,

Despite pledging (or being sentenced) to never return to

Exile to Scotland: Columba’s Miracles:

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 12 of 29

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 13 of 29

against him. Making the sign of the

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 14 of 29

Movilla under Granted Land for

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 15 of 29

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 16 of 29

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 17 of 29

FIRST DERRY PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 18 of 29

of Sinn Fein leader Martin McGuinness, from the

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 19 of 29

ST. AUGUSTINE’S CHURCH

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 20 of 29

LONG TOWER CHURCH

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 21 of 29

CARLISLE ROAD METHODIST CHURCH

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 22 of 29

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 23 of 29

OTHER SITES OF INTEREST

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 24 of 29

ST. COLUMB’S CATHEDRAL

St. Columb’s has worked to

© 2017 The Churches Trust. All Rights Reserved Page 25 of 29

ST. COLUMB’S PARK HOUSE