Blade Building Made Easy: Don Fogg

Blade Building
BLADE ’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

Made Easy
T
he world’s finest knifemakers
®
learned to ply their trade through
trial and error. They honed their skills with
blood, sweat and tears. Never before has there been a fully
illustrated, all-color, step-by-step book on how to make
knives ... until now! And, as a bonus, two chapters are
dedicated to sword and tomahawk making.
Novice knifemakers, knife enthusiasts and shop

junkies of the world, this is the book of your dreams!
DON FOGG
• Learn to grind blades
• Fashion handles the easy way
• Forge steel like the pros
• Fashion bolsters and guards
• Fit and finish those bladed beauties
Chapters are penned by some of the world’s greatest

knifemakers, including Wayne Goddard, Allen Elishewitz, ALLEN ELISHEWITZ JOHN LEWIS JENSEN
Rick Dunkerley, Don Fogg, R.J. Martin, Joe Szilaski and

John Lewis Jensen.
PointSeven Studios photo

Seeing is believing, and with over 400 step-by-step
illustrations guiding you along the way to making your
first or finest knife, this book is a must-have for any knife
enthusiast’s library. Have fun, and be careful!
WAYNE GODDARD JOE SZILASKI
KERTZMAN
RICK DUNKERLEY R.J. MARTIN
US $24.99
BGKFM (CAN $29.99)
ISBN-13: 978-0-89689-240-8
ISBN-10: 0-89689-240-9
52699
UPC
EAN
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04 04 0124
BGKFM_FullcvrNEW.indd 1 3/5/10 12:19:07 PM

BGKFM_1-5.indd 1 10/27/08 4:52:07 PM
©2005 Krause Publications, a division of F+W Media, Inc.
Published by
Our toll-free number to place an order or obtain

a free catalog is (800) 258-0929.
All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without
permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote
brief passages in a critical article or review to be printed in a magazine or news-
paper, or electronically transmitted on radio, television, or the Internet.
The cover knife was made by Michael Walker and showcases a blued “Zipper”
blade with a damascus cutting edge. Michael’s Zipper-blade folders are some of
the most highly collectible knives in the world. (PointSeven photo)
Library of Congress Control Number: 2005922622
ISBN-13: 978-0-89689-240-8
ISBN-10: 0-89689-240-9
Designed by Kara Grundman

Edited by Joe Kertzman
Printed in China
BGKFM_NewPG2.indd 2 2/24/10 3:48:38 PM

Table of Contents
4 Introduction
5 Preface
6 It’s High Time to Fashion a High-Tech Folder

By Allen Elishewitz
26 Making the Everyday Working Knife

By Wayne Goddard
66 His Forge Burns Hot for Mosaic Damascus

By Rick Dunkerley
86 Dedicated to the Study of Sword Making

By Don Fogg
104 Building the Bolsters of “Alchemy”

By John Lewis Jensen
124 Methods of Tomahawk Making are Timeless

By Joe Szilaski
140 The Art and Science of Blade Grinding

By R.J. Martin
160 How to Contact the Knifemakers
BGKFM_1-5.indd 3 10/27/08 4:52:12 PM

INTRODUCTION
T his is a first anywhere. It’s the forum of

all forums, the chance of a lifetime, an
avenue for knifemaking expression, a
vehicle for learning and a comprehensive how-
to book, all hammer forged into one form, then
best instructors to ever take a hammer to steel.
Add knife and tomahawk maker Joe Szilaski into
the mix, and take in a chapter by Allen Elishewitz,
one of a select few of the most popular modern
makers of upscale tactical folders on any of the seven
honed to perfection! That’s right. This book brings continents. Read how Rick Dunkerley masterfully
knifemakers and novices together. Simultaneously, forges his well-known and absolutely mind-boggling
equally and without prejudice, it gives the masters mosaic damascus, how John Lewis Jensen makes the
of their craft a platform from which to teach, and bolster area of a knife a masterpiece in and of itself,
fledgling knife enthusiasts a textbook from which to and how R.J. Martin grinds the wildest blades this
gain the secrets of a trade. side of Damascus, and you’ve got yourself one hot
Could the craft of knifemaking be taught through how-to book on fashioning knives, folks.
a book? Can an art form that has traditionally It’s that good. Don your apron, fire up the forge,
been passed down from generation to generation, get those grinding belts ready and put on your best
from master to student, teacher to apprentice, be reading goggles. Tips from masters such as these
transferred from words and pictures on pages to the only come along once in a lifetime. Not only do
hands and minds of those eager to learn? Can ideas the respected knifemakers who penned chapters
turn into skills? Does book learning translate into a for “BLADE’s Guide to Making Knives” reveal the
handcraft? secrets of their trade, they also give advice on how to
It depends on who’s doing the teaching. avoid making the same mistakes they made as they
Take one Wayne Goddard, a knifemaker plying learned through trial and error.
his trade since 1963, a field editor for BLADE With step-by-step, color photographs to guide
Magazine®, author of two previous books on readers along the way, even the most inexperienced
building blades, and a specialist in fashioning some will grasp the basic concepts of knifemaking and
of the world’s most popular and sought-after fixed be leaps and bounds ahead of those not fortunate
blades and folders. Then, add Don Fogg, arguably enough to have such a tremendous resource at
one of the best sword makers on the planet, not to their fingertips. It makes those who bring you
mention a craftsman who fashions fine daggers, “BLADE’s Guide to Making Knives” proud to have
bowies and hunting knives, something he’s been accomplished such a simple task. Enjoy, and get
doing since 1976, and you already have two of the some dirt under those fingernails!
Joe Kertzman
4 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES
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Allen Elishewitz’s project
knife, made via a step-by-
step instructional for this book, is a
locking-liner folder sporting a damascus
blade, a carbon fiber handle and titanium
bolsters.
Rick Dunkerley’s rocker-release folding dagger

showcases a 280-layer, ladder-pattern-damascus blade
and 120-layer, random-pattern-damascus bolsters.
Learn how to
make a beautiful
everyday working
knife like this piece
by Wayne Goddard,
certainly a master
at his craft. Joe Szilaski teaches readers
how to make a tomahawk
similar to the piece in the
movie “The Patriot,”
starring Mel Gibson.
The Viking sword by The prop in the movie
Jake Powning is a particular was based on a 1793
favorite of one of the book tomahawk the author
contributors, Don Fogg, who penned reproduced. This is
the chapter on sword making. the author’s version.
(PointSeven photo)
John Jensen’s art knives are highly regarded in R.J. Martin’s grinding style has led him toward
the knifemaking community as innovative edged sweeping grind lines that parallel the edge shape.
collectibles. John penned the chapter on building the He also prefers a grind line that sweeps up from
bolsters of “Alchemy.” the plunge area.
PREFACE ╭ 5
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It’s High Time to Fashion
a High-Tech Folder
Allen Elishewitz reveals his secrets for building the
fancy tactical folders that have made him a force in
the knife industry By knifemaker Allen Elishewitz
T
here are many methods to build a knife and there is no The fancy locking-liner folder that
has resulted from this step-by-
wrong way to do it. You can use anything from simple
step instructional is completely
hand tools to industrial machines. The method I have handmade. The reason I choose
chosen for readers to follow allows for a high-tech folder to build all my knives in such a
manner is because it gives me, the
to be fashioned with either simple or large industrial-type
knifemaker, more flexibility in my
machines, the latter of which are like the ones I own. production method. It also allows
the knife to take on more of an
individual and unique appearance.
Keep in mind that, due to space
limitations, there are quite a few
small steps that I have excluded. I
will do my best to mention them
but I will concentrate on the most
important aspects of making a
high-tech locking-liner folder.
For this project, the knife
has titanium bolsters, a carbon
fiber handle and a damascus
blade. The locking-liner folder
integrates a classical handle/
bolster combination that, to build
it, entails an intermediate level
of difficulty. What makes the
folder more complicated to build
than other plain-handle knives is
the introduction of the bolsters.
The bolsters add just one more
aspect to handle construction,
and the alignment of the bolsters
and handle material must be
Although Allen Elishewitz uses large industrial-type machines in his shop, constantly maintained during the
his knifemaking methods are easy to follow employing simple hand tools. knife assembly.
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After gathering all the knife materials, Allen sprays them with blue
layout spray, allowing him to see what he scribes when he begins
drawing patterns on the parts. These are all the cutout knife parts.
Before a knifemaker begins
fashioning a knife, he or she
needs to select the materials
from which it will be built. The
blade can be damascus or plain
stainless steel; the handle could
be manmade or natural.
Whatever the materials are,
they need to be gathered for the
beginning of the project, and
upon choosing the materials, the
maker can mentally picture what
For each part of the knife, Allen When cutting, Allen uses a push- the knife will look like. Colors,
clamps a pattern onto the knife stick to protect his fingers and textures and patterns play a big
material and scribes its shape onto allow leverage in tight areas. role in the appearance of the final
the material.
product.
In this case, the bolsters are
.100-inch-thick titanium, the
handle material is .125-inch-
thick carbon fiber, the black
G-10 spacer is .150-inch thick,
the liners are .050-inch-thick
titanium and the blade material is
.125-inch-thick damascus.
I gather all my materials and
put the titanium and steel on a
piece of cardboard. Then I take
blue layout spray and I spray
In a machine that laps the surface of the titanium liners so that they are flat, them, allowing me to see what
a Micarta square separates the parts. That way, the parts don’t interfere I scribe when I begin drawing
with each other during the lapping process. patterns on them.
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 7
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After the layout spray is dried, I
take a vise clamp and I clamp my
pattern onto the .050-inch-thick
liner material. With a carbide-tip
scribe, I trace the pattern of my
handle onto the titanium.
For the knife, you will need two
liners—one is the lock side and
one is the opposite side. Then
you want to scribe your bolsters.
Remember you also need two
bolsters, one for the left and one
While the liners are lapping, Allen After the blade has been profiled to for the right side of the knife. You
grinds the blade to the scribed line the scribed line, Allen flattens one want to clamp your blade pattern
with a 60-grit belt. side on a disk. onto your damascus bar and
then scribe out the pattern of the
blade. Continue this process for
each part of the knife.
Once all your parts have been
scribed, you are ready to cut
them out. Remember to always
wear safety glasses and hearing
protection when operating a
band saw. Make sure you run the
band saw at the correct speed
for the material you are cutting.
You can tell the difference between the two pairs of liners and blades.
For example, you want to run
The ones on the right side are not perfectly flat and you can tell by the
your band saw faster when you
imperfection of the finish on the parts. The parts on the left side are what
are cutting your handle material,
you want to strive to achieve.
slower when you are cutting
your blade material and thicker
titanium.
Depending on the tooth per
inch, you might want to run a
little bit faster when you are
cutting thin liner materials. If you
do not run the blade faster, you
are chancing stripping the teeth
off the blade.
When cutting, I use a push-
stick to protect my fingers and
allow leverage in tight areas. I
The author uses a vise clamp to The pattern allows the author to spot also wear gloves, mainly to lessen
attach the blade pattern to the all the holes he will need to drill. the vibration to my hands.
damascus blade. All titanium liners will be
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placed on my lapping machine.
This machine laps the surface
of the titanium so it is flat. The
reason why you want your liners
flat is that you will get a much
smoother action and prevent
warping of the liners, and thus
the stressing of the folder when it
is put together.
In the lapping machine, I
separate the liners with a Micarta
square so they do not interfere
with each other. A foam pad is After he is done spotting the blade, Allen removes the pattern and starts
placed on top of the liners and on drilling the holes to the correct sizes. He screws an aluminum rod into the
top of the foam pad is a 20-pound
drill table to protect him against any blade that could be pulled out of his
hand by the drill bit.
weight. The pad helps distribute
the weight evenly on the liners.
As the machine rotates, three
rings also rotate giving an even
and random motion against an
abrasive disk.
While the liners are lapping, I
grind the blade to the scribed line
with a 60-grit belt. Remember,
again, to use proper ear, eye and
lung protection.
After the blade has been
profiled to the scribed line,
I flatten one side on a disk. The author reams the tang area of the blade to a .2850-inch diameter.
In preparation for heat-treating, the blade is wrapped in steel foil. A breather hole is poked in the resulting foil bag
so that a vacuum situation will not present itself, possibly warping the blade.
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To spot the holes in the lock-side liner, and drill them to the appropriate Allen de-burrs and flattens the
sizes, the author clamps the handle pattern onto the .050-inch-thick liner. bolsters on a disk grinder.
tang area of the blade to a .2850-

inch diameter, and my pivot pin
is .250-inch in diameter. The
reason why I ream undersize is
because this is a damascus blade,
and when I etch it, the acid will
enlarge the pivot hole.
Once the blade has been
profiled, drilled and reamed, it
is ready for heat-treating. I wrap
the blade in steel foil, and with
a carbide scribe, I poke a small
breather hole in the corner of the
foil bag. If you do not do this, at
high temperatures, all the oxygen
Here you can see the liner of the lock side with all the holes drilled and the
pair of bolsters that have been flattened. will be burned out of the bag
and it will create a vacuum. In a
blade. I use the pattern to spot all vacuum situation, the chances of
Keep in mind which side has
the holes I will need to drill. After warping your blade or of the bag
been flattened. The side that is
I am done spotting the blade, welding itself to your blade are
flattened is the side that faces
I remove the pattern and start extremely high.
down on the drill press when I
drilling the holes to the correct I take my handle pattern and
start drilling holes in the blade.
sizes. I screw an aluminum rod clamp it onto the .050-inch-
Also, after heat-treating, that is
into the drill table to protect me thick liner that I’ve chosen to
the side that I check for flatness
from any blade that could be be the lock side. Now I can spot
because heat-treating can warp a
pulled out of my hand by the drill the holes and drill them to the
blade.
bit. appropriate sizes. I take my .100-
With a vise clamp, clamp your
Before heat-treating, I ream the inch-thick bolsters to the disk
blade pattern on your damascus
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The lock-side liner with all the holes drilled is used as a pattern to transfer
the holes to the bolsters.
The liners are drilled and tapped.
grinder to de-burr and flatten

them.
I take the liner from the lock
side with all the holes drilled and
use it as a pattern to transfer the
holes to my bolsters. Then I take
the other liner and clamp it onto
the lock-side liner. I transfer-drill
the spacer holes, the handle-
The author uses the liner as a pattern to ensure more precise and consistent
screws holes and the bolsters-
holes locations on all parts.
screws holes. I use the liner as a
pattern to ensure more precise condition they will be in when I locate the screw hole and drill
and consistent holes locations on the knife is assembled. What I am and counter bore the screw hole
all parts. The only holes I do not doing here is removing all types on the bolsters. The bolsters can
drill are the pivot pin and my two of variables that could cause then be screwed onto the liners
stop pins. the pivot pin holes and the two and everything should be aligned.
I take the two liners and screw stop pin holes to not be perfectly With the bolsters screwed
them together through the aligned. onto the liners, I then flatten my
spacer holes. The three screws At this point all holes are handle material and square up
holding the liners together will drilled, tapped, reamed and the front end where it meets the
prevent them from shifting. This countersunk on the liners. I shift bolsters. With a vise, I clamp the
allows me to drill the pivot-pin my attention to the bolsters, and handle onto the liners, making
hole and ream both pivot-pin I square up the back end where sure there is no gap between the
holes together. Then I am able the handle material will come handle material and bolsters. I
to drill the two stop pin holes. in contact with them. Then I then transfer-drill the screw holes
The reason why I do it this way counter bore the pivot pin hole to from the liners to the handle
is because the liners are in the accept the head of my pivot pin. material. I drill and counter
BGKFM_6-25.indd 11 10/27/08 4:08:34 PM

Before counter-boring the pivot-
pin hole to accept the head of the
pivot pin, the author squares up
the back end of the bolsters where
the handle material will come into
Before drilling the pivot-pin hole, Allen screws the two liners together contact with them. He then locates
through the spacer holes. Three screws holding the liners together will the screw hole and drills and
prevent them from shifting during the drilling process. counter bores it on the bolsters.
As you can see, the bolsters are
bore the handle material for the
then screwed onto the liners and
mounting screws.
everything is aligned.
I take my G-10 spacer, which
has been ground to a specific profile the liners and contour the
size, and clamp it onto my handle bolsters, I do not want to take
pattern. I will drill out the holes the risk of burning the handle
for the screws. After this is done, material.
all the parts have been drilled. With the knife handle
At this point, I screw the assembled (minus the handle
bolsters onto the liners, and I material), I start profiling the
slip a pivot pin through the pivot liners. I start with a 60-grit belt,
holes of both the bolster and eventually graduating to a 120-
the liner. I insert a pivot spacer, grit belt, and finally to a 400-grit
which is a piece of G-10 that is belt. I use a variety of wheel sizes,
the same thickness as my spacer like 8-inch, 3-inch and 1-inch
material. This will prevent the wheels. Also, I use serrated and
front end of the knife from flexing plain wheels. Serrated wheels are
This photo shows the pair of
bolsters in which the pivot hole has when I contour the bolsters. more aggressive on the material
been drilled and reamed to .250- Then I take my spacer and the and will keep it cooler. Plain
inch thickness. You will notice that other liner and screw the knife wheels are a lot smoother with
one of the liners is missing the pivot together. I do not attach the less vibration. I use serrated
pin and the stop pin holes. handle material because, when I wheels for the coarser-grit belts
BGKFM_6-25.indd 12 10/27/08 4:08:35 PM

With a vise, Allen clamps the handle onto the liners, making sure there is The author does not attach the
no gap between the handle material and bolsters. He then transfer drills the handle material to the liners
screw holes from the liners to the handle material. because, when he profiles the
liners and contours the bolsters,
he doesn’t want to take the risk of
burning the handle.
contoured to a 600-grit finish. I

remove the handle material and
complete the contouring of the
bolsters. I will finish the bolsters
with a 600-grit belt. After the
locking-liner folder is completely
taken apart, it is ready for
detailing.
The carbon fiber handle and
The G-10 spacer is clamped onto the handle pattern and the holes for the titanium bolsters will have slight
screws are drilled out. At this point, then, all the parts have been drilled. chamfers on their outer edges.
This is done with a 400-grit belt
and smooth wheels for the finer- with a 400-grit belt. I make sure and it is to prevent the outer
grit belts. Once the profile of that the handle material is flush corners from being sharp and
the handle is completely ground with the liners. unpleasant in the hand.
to the shape I am looking for, I I contour the handle material I bead-blast the bolsters
contour the bolsters on an 8-inch with a 120-grit belt, which is my and handle with a mixture of
contact wheel. I grind the bolsters rough grind. My medium grind three parts glass and one part
down to a 120-grit finish. will result in a 400-grit finish. On aluminum oxide, giving the
After the handle has been the handle, I use a 600-grit slack titanium and handle material
profiled and the bolsters have belt. This will remove any kind of a nice matt finish, and not too
been contoured to a 120-grit imperfection in the handle and coarse to the point where it looks
finish, I screw the material onto give it a smooth appearance. “dirty.” Next, I grind the spacer to
the handle. Then I grind the At this point, the profile of the remove the excess material. The
handle material to the liners and I knife is down to a 400-grit finish, spacer and handle screws also get
finish the handle material profile and the handle material has been a bead-blasted finish.
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Allen grinds
the handle
material to the
liners and finishes it with a 400-grit
belt, making sure that the handle
The bolsters are ground down to a 120-grit finish. material is flush with the liners.
I gather the pivot pin, stop pins between two pieces of steel. The
and washers and put away all the two pieces of steel act as a heat
detailed parts to prevent them sink, helping draw the heat away
from getting scratched. The liners from the blade and cool it down
are the only things that do not get quicker. Also, as the heat is drawn
detailed at this point. I also give out from both sides, it helps
the inside of the liners a slight prevent the blade from warping.
chamfer to remove any sharp When the blade is cool enough
corners. to handle, I put it on a hardened,
With the liners and handle precision, flat piece of steel and
material taken care of, now it is hold it up to the light to see if
time to focus my attention on there is any warpage or bow. I
the blade. For this particular place the blade, with the side that
knife, I am using Damasteel—a I ground flat on the disk down, on
Swedish powdered stainless that piece of steel. This side will
steel damascus. I heat it to 1,975 let me know how much the blade
degrees Fahrenheit (F), and air has moved during heat-treating.
quench and temper it twice at Since, prior to heat-treating it
At this point, the profile of the 350 degrees F. When I take the was absolutely flat, the light will
knife is down to a 400-grit finish, blade out of the oven at 1,975 show any gaps.
and the handle material has been degrees, I immediately cut the If the blade has a bow, I use my
contoured to a 600-grit finish. bag and place the red-hot blade arbor press to straighten it out.
BGKFM_6-25.indd 14 10/27/08 4:08:37 PM

Allen gathers the pivot pin, stop pins and washers and puts away all the detailed parts to prevent them from getting
scratched. The liners are the only things that do not get detailed at this point.
I remove the anvil that comes

with the arbor press and replace
it with a horseshoe-shaped piece
of aluminum. The gap is about 2
¾ inches wide and it lies on the
base. This allows me to move the
block of aluminum side to side
so I can manipulate the steel as it
requires.
By pressing the blade in the
center of the gap, you produce a
consistent curve throughout the
blade. By shifting the aluminum
plate off to one side, you can
pinpoint a specific area to correct.
Keep in mind that you have
limited time to do this before
When the blade is taken out of the oven at 1,975 degrees, the bag is
the blade becomes too hard and
immediately cut and the red-hot blade is placed between two pieces of
brittle.
steel. The two pieces of steel act as a heat sink, helping draw the heat away
from the blade and cool it down quicker.
BGKFM_6-25.indd 15 10/27/08 4:08:40 PM

When the blade is cool enough to handle, it is placed on a hardened,
precision, flat piece of steel and held up to the light to see if there is any
warping or bow.
Profile the edge of the blade with a

90-durometer, 8-inch wheel.
If the blade has a bow, an arbor press is used to straighten it out.
This is well worth to a 400-grit finish. I profile the to that one side.
mentioning—damascus steel edge of the blade with a smooth If you do not flatten one side
has a much higher tendency to 90-durometer, 8-inch wheel. I and there is a slight bow, when
warp because the steel is placed use a hard wheel for this process you surface grind your blade,
under a tremendous amount of because I want the edge to be the magnetic chuck will pull the
stress during the initial forging flat with minimal rolling of the blade flat. The result is that you
process. From my experience, corners. A softer wheel, if pressed will have a parallel blade but it
when it comes to warping, twist- hard enough, will roll the edge of will be bowed. So by flattening
pattern damascus is one of the the material. one side you will have a straight
worst offenders. This is due to When the edge is completely and parallel blade. If this was
the nature of the process used to done, I flatten one side on the a plain stainless steel blade, I
achieve a twist pattern. disk grinder. The side that I would surface grind the blade to
After the straightening process, flatten is the same side I flatten a particular thickness. Since this
the blade is double tempered and prior to drilling and heat- is damascus, the surface grinding
then it is time to start working on treating. This gives me a known will take place later.
it. The entire edge of the blade is flat surface on the blade. It also The best and most accurate
refined, straightened and brought removes any type of warp or bow way to scribe the cutting edge
BGKFM_6-25.indd 16 10/27/08 4:09:53 PM

By flattening one side, you will The best and most accurate way to scribe the cutting edge prior to grinding
have a straight and parallel blade. is with a height gage and granite plate.
blade. I will be using is a 60-

grit belt on an 8-inch serrated
wheel. The contact wheel is 90
durometers. This wheel will keep
the blade cool, and since it is
so hard, the grind lines will be
crisp. A 60-grit belt is mainly a
“hogger,” designed to rip away
metal.
The type of grind I will be
using on this blade is called a
“compound grind.” This is a more
advanced and complex blade due
A height gage has a carbide tip that is designed for scribing metal. Scribe to the multiple grinds needed
along your cutting edge with the gage on both sides of the blade. to achieve the desired look. A
compound grind is two different
prior to grinding is with a height With a permanent marker, heights of grinds that are
gage and granite plate. You mark where your stop pin will connected together, resulting in
want to measure your blade and come in contact with the blade. a blade with two distinct cutting
subtract how thick you want your Then mark the face of your blade edges. One is thinner and much
cutting edge to be. Then divide and scribe an arc where your ball sharper for cutting and slashing,
that number by two. That is how detent will travel. By doing this and the second edge is shorter
high you want to raise your gage. you are giving yourself reference and stouter for cutting harder
A height gage has a carbide points not to grind into. If you do objects or for armor piercing.
tip that is designed for scribing not do this and you over grind, One of the first cultures to
metal. Scribe along your cutting your ball detent might fall into ever use this type of grind comes
edge with the gage on both sides your bevel or you might sharpen out of the Middle East. They
of the blade. The result will be your blade and it will cut your would grind their daggers in this
two parallel lines, equally spaced stop pin. manner, leaving the tips stout
down the center of the blade. Now it is time to grind the to pierce through armor. Bud
BGKFM_6-25.indd 17 10/27/08 4:09:55 PM

Nealy is a modern knifemaker
who employs this style on a knife
he calls the “Pesh-Kabz.” I have
done this grind on some of my
big fighters in the past but it
wasn’t until a knife I collaborated
on with Joel Pirela, named the
“Helix,” that I used it again.
You want to hold the blade
firmly in your hand with your
wrist, forearm and elbow tight
against your side, and plunge it
straight into the contact wheel.
For the next step, I switch to
With a permanent marker, mark where your stop pin will come in contact a smooth 90-durometer contact
with the blade. Then mark the face of your blade and scribe an arc where wheel. I am using a 120-grit belt
your ball detent will travel. and this is the belt with which
I do most of my work. The 120-
grit belt removes all the 60-grit
scratches, bringing the grind line
close to where I want it to be. The
thickness of the cutting edge is
finally established.
When I stop using the 120-grit
belt, I know that all the 60-grit
scratches have been removed.
Once again, I hold the blade
firmly in my hand, put my wrist,
elbow and forearm tight against
my side for stability, and I plunge
the blade straight into the contact
wheel.
You want to hold the blade firmly in your hand with your wrist, forearm and Something to keep in mind
elbow tight against your side, and plunge it straight into the contact wheel. about the speed of my grinder
is that I use a variable-speed,
2-horsepower DC grinder. With
the 60-grit belt, I run the grinder
at full speed, and while using
the 120-grit belt, I reduce the
grinder to 80-percent speed. This
prevents the steel from getting
In this photo, you will notice that the first grind has been started with the too hot as the grit becomes finer.
60-grit belt. Allen made sure he kept away from his reference points when It also allows me to have better
grinding. You can see from the grinding marks on the blade how the author control of the grind so I do not
“plunge ground” the blade straight into the contact wheel. overly grind the blade.
BGKFM_6-25.indd 18 10/27/08 4:09:57 PM

After taking the 120-grit belt to
the blade, the height of the grind
is close to where I want it. The
grind is straighter, and the cutting
edge is a lot thinner.
The next step is to complete the
center grind. I use a 1-inch-wide,
8-inch-diameter, 70-durometer,
smooth contact wheel. The softer
wheel is more forgiving when
used with finer grits. I use a 1-
inch wheel for two reasons: First,
it allows me to work both plunges With the 60-grit belt, the author runs the grinder at full speed, and while
on the left and right side of the using the 120-grit belt, he reduces the grinder to 80-percent speed. This
grind; and secondly, it helps prevents the steel from getting too hot as the grit becomes finer.
concentrate your grind into one
specific area. I will be using 320-
and 600-grit belts with this wheel.
I split my belts so they overhang
the wheel on both sides. This
gives the grind a nice radius in
the plunges.
The center grind is completed.
I have stayed away from my After applying the 120-grit belt to the blade, the height of the grind is close
reference points while grinding, to where the author wants it. The grind is straighter, and the cutting edge is
and the two plunges exhibit nice a lot thinner.
radii. The finish on the grind is
fine because after I use the 600-
grit belt, I add white rouge to the
belt. This helps polish the bevel
and brings it to a much finer grit
without removing any material.
To complete this blade, the
front end, nearest the tip, needs
to be ground. I repeat steps that
I used for the center grind, but
instead of grinding as high, I
grind it much shorter. I also leave
the cutting edge a little bit thicker
to produce a blade with a strong
tip and a robust cutting edge, all
followed by a razor-fine edge for
fine cuts. To complete the center grind, Allen uses a 1-inch-wide, 8-inch-diameter, 70-
After the blade is completely durometer, smooth contact wheel. The softer wheel is more forgiving when
ground and the bevels have an used with finer grits.
BGKFM_6-25.indd 19 10/27/08 4:09:58 PM

the blade in the acid. You must be
careful when etching damascus
blades using this technique; if you
leave your blade in the muriatic
acid too long, you will ruin it.
To neutralize the muriatic acid,
I use a mixture of Windex, which
In this illustration, the center grind is completed. While grinding, the has ammonia and detergent,
author stayed away from his reference points, and the two plunges exhibit and baking soda, as an added
nice radii. insurance.
After the acid is neutralized,
I rinse the blade in water and I
begin to polish it. It is easier to
remove the residue of the blade
before the water has dried. I use a
medium felt wheel with a little bit
of rouge and I go over the bevel
In grinding the front end of the blade, nearest the tip, the author repeats and outer edge of the blade.
the steps he used for the center grind, but instead of grinding as high, he After polishing, I surface grind
grinds it much shorter. the blade. I surface grind the
flats to remove the pattern, thus
allowing the ball detent to ride
on the smooth surface of the
blade. It also helps enhance the
appearance of the damascus.
I have converted my surface
grinder to accept a 2-inch-by-
72-inch belt. The 90-durometer,
6-inch serrated wheel will keep
the blade cooler than a stone or
a smooth wheel, and therefore
will also prevent the blade from
To etch the damascus, the author
warping. To prevent rollovers
uses a coat hanger with a plastic
(the edge of your blade will roll
sleeve as a rod to suspend the blade A mixture of Windex and baking
over due to the contact wheel
in muriatic acid. soda neutralizes the muriatic acid.
pressure) with this set-up, you
extremely fine finish, I go around on top of a piece of Micarta. The need a hard, 90-durometer wheel,
the edge of the blade with a jar and Micarta are placed in a and you must take lighter cuts.
Scotch-Brite wheel. This ensures small fryer filled halfway with A lot of knifemakers have a
that the edge of the blade has a water and brought to a boil. The tendency to want to remove too
fine finish and any deep scratches Micarta prevents the glass jar much material when using a belt.
will be removed at this point. from breaking. When the water is I put the side that I ground flat,
It is now time for etching the at a boil, the blade is ready to be using the disk, down onto the
damascus. I use muriatic acid in etched. I use a coat hanger with a magnetic chuck. I use a fine-pole
a preserve jar, and I set the jar plastic sleeve as a rod to suspend magnetic chuck because it has
BGKFM_6-25.indd 20 10/27/08 4:10:00 PM

better holding properties for knife
blades. The blade is tilted at a
60-degree angle and the magnetic
chuck is turned on. I use a 120-
grit belt to remove the etched
patterns on the flat of the blade. I
do this to both sides, and I bring
the thickness down to about .003-
inch thicker than what I need.
Next I remove the blade and
clean off my chuck. I replace
the 120-grit belt with a 400-grit
belt. I then put the blade back
on the magnetic chuck, this time Allen uses a medium felt wheel with a little bit of rouge to go over the bevel
horizontally. This is the direction and outer edge of the blade.
that I will be hand-rubbing the
blade. Also I am able to see the
120-grit scratches being removed.
With this grit, you do not want to
remove more than .0015-inch at
a time. This will ensure that your
blade will remain absolutely flat.
With the blade perfectly flat
and parallel, it is now time to
cut the bevel for the lock in the
tang. I use a brand-new 320-grit
belt and a 90-durometer smooth
wheel. This will ensure that the
Allen puts the flat-ground side of the blade down onto the magnetic chuck.
lock surface does not have any
The blade is tilted at a 60-degree angle and the magnetic chuck is turned
ripples. I adjust my tool rest to a
on. The author uses a 120-grit belt to remove the etched patterns on the flat
specific height that I know will of the blade.
give me a 6 ½-degree-angle tang
bevel. To verify this angle on the
blade, I use a vernier protractor
that is accurate to 5 minutes of a
degree.
The blade is perfectly flat
and parallel and it is time to
correct the pivot pin hole. After
heat-treating, bending the steel,
flattening and surface grinding,
the pivot hole is not perfectly
perpendicular to the two sides. Allen replaces the 120-grit belt with a 400-grit belt. He then puts the blade
I run a ¼-inch carbide reamer back on the magnetic chuck, this time horizontally. This is the direction that
in the hole to recondition it. I he hand-rubs the blade.
BGKFM_6-25.indd 21 10/27/08 4:10:01 PM

then take a barrel lap, charge it
with diamond paste and run it
in the pivot hole. With the barrel
lap, I am not trying to enlarge
the hole too much but I am
trying to produce a smoother and
more concentric hole. This will
enhance the action of the blade.
I take the two liners, and with a
permanent marker, I mark a spot
on the lock side. This is where the With the blade perfectly flat and parallel, it is now time to cut the bevel for
the lock in the tang. The author uses a brand-new 320-grit belt and a 90-
locking bar will come in contact
durometer smooth wheel.
Allen adjusts the tool rest to a specific height that he knows will result a 6 The author runs a ¼-inch carbide
½-degree-angle tang bevel. To verify this angle on the blade, the author reamer in the pivot hole to
uses a vernier protractor that is accurate to 5 minutes of a degree. recondition it.
with the blade. I slip a pivot pin

and a stop pin through both
liners. I use both liners because it
will give me a little more support
for the stop pin and pivot pin. I
then place the blade on the pivot
pin in the open position. With
a shaving-sharp razor blade, I
scribe a line where the lock will
come in contact with the blade.
I carefully cut as close as I
can in front of the scribed line.
The band saw blade will come
in contact with the ¼-inch hole To produce a smoother, more concentric pivot hole, the author uses a barrel
in the liner, and since the band lap, charges it with diamond paste and runs it in the pivot hole.
BGKFM_6-25.indd 22 10/27/08 4:10:02 PM

The band saw blade will come in
contact with the ¼-inch hole in the
With a permanent marker, the author marks a spot on the lock side of the liner, and since the band saw blade
liner where the locking bar will come in contact with the blade. He slips a that the author uses is ¼-inch wide,
pivot pin and a stop pin through both liners and places the blade on the the hole allows him to rotate the
pivot pin in the open position. With a razor blade, he scribes a line where liner 90 degrees to complete the cut
the lock will come in contact with the blade. for the locking bar.
Allen splits a 400-grit belt and runs

it as a slack belt, enabling him to
Using a ¼-inch band saw blade, the author carefully cuts the locking part look at the liner while he cleans the
of the liner as close as he can in front of the line he previously scribed. band saw cuts.
saw blade that I use is ¼-inch throughout your bar. place my blade using the two
wide, the hole allows me to rotate I split a 400-grit belt and I run washers and, finally, assemble the
the liner 90 degrees to complete it as a slack belt, enabling me knife. At this point, I can open
the cut for the locking bar. The to look at the liner while I clean and close it to see if anything
advantage of doing it this way is the band saw cuts. After this is looks out of place. The two stop
that you can keep your locking done, I grind the lock face to the pin holes are exposed so I can
bar relatively parallel to the scribed line. I de-bur my liner insert pins and verify if the knife
contours of the handle from one and bend the locking bar about is working in both the open and
end to another. If the locking bar 3/16-inch high. Now the knife is closed positions.
is not parallel due to a straight ready to be fitted. Since the folder is of open-
cut, when you bend your spring, I take the liner with the locking frame construction, the ball
you will have thin and thick spots bar, insert a pivot pin, then I detent on the locking bar is
BGKFM_6-25.indd 23 10/27/08 4:10:04 PM

After fitting up the lock, and the ball detent has been spotted on the blade,
Allen takes apart the knife and bead-blasts the liners. Then he anodizes the
titanium liners blue and engraves his name and the year on the inside of
the liners.
Now it is time to sharpen the blade
and the knife is almost complete.
type of scratches that might occur

when fitting the lock. I clamp
the blade onto a piece of steel so
I can hand rub the flats. I take
a flat piece of Micarta and hold
wet/dry sand paper tightly against
it. I then move it back and forth
against the flats of the blade.
The final strokes are done in
one direction over the complete
length of the blade. The trick is
not to fall off the flats into your
bevel. If that happened, you
The final strokes are done in one direction over the length of the blade.
would have to start all over again
exposed. When the blade is in the and engrave my name and the from polishing the bevels to
closed position, against the stop year on the inside of the liners. sanding.
pin, I am able to locate and spot I place the completed liners Now it is time to sharpen the
the blade where the ball detent with the rest of the parts already blade and the knife is almost
will fall. finished. done. After the blade is sharp,
After I fit up the lock, and the I take the blade, and with a I put the thumb stud in and
ball detent has been spotted on carbide drill, I drill the ball detent engrave my logo. Everything is
the blade, I take apart the knife hole. Next I polish the etched now ready to be assembled.
and bead-blast the liners. Then I surfaces of the damascus one I gather all my parts that have
anodize the titanium liners blue final time. This is to remove any been detailed and finished and
BGKFM_6-25.indd 24 10/27/08 4:10:07 PM

The author takes the liner
with the locking bar,
inserts a pivot pin, places
the blade using the two
washers and, finally,
assembles the knife. At
this point, he can open
and close the folder
to see if anything
looks out of place.
While assembling the knife, the author examines each piece.
assemble the knife. I examine

each piece as I assemble it. Here
is the finished knife! I hope that The finished knife should look something like this example, and if yours
you were able to gather some looks this good, Allen knows he’s been a good teacher and will have some
information from my method. heavy competition on his hands in no time.
BGKFM_6-25.indd 25 10/27/08 4:10:09 PM

Making the Everyday
Working Knife By Wayne Goddard
I have some strong opinions
Getting Started
M
about how a new knifemaker
y experience has taught me that there's nothing should get started. I recommend
like digging in and getting started. I've often said the first knives be made with
simple and even makeshift tools.
the hardest part of the most difficult project I ever
That’s the kind of thing that
completed was getting past the decision to get started. Once lets you ease into knifemaking
I get started, it becomes a matter of problem solving and without spending a lot of money.
See the photo of a backyard
never giving up. The great inventor Thomas Edison wrote,
knife shop. If the simple method
“Many of life’s failures are people who did not realize how is not for you, it won’t hurt
close they were to success when they gave up.” my feelings—just grab your
checkbook and credit cards and
head for town. Don’t forget the
list of basic tools.
Old School
I’m what you would call an old-
school knifemaker. That’s because
I never learned CAD (Computer
Aided Design) or CAM (Computer
Aided Manufacturing). I don’t
work with titanium or drill and
tap a lot of holes in order to put
knives together with screws.
To me, “old school” is riveting
together the handle and blade
tang, giving the knife a unique
personality by hand finishing all
the parts. There are no square
corners—everything is rounded,
smooth and friendly.
About Design
Here’s the author at work in his backyard as it was setup for “The $50 Knife It’s been said that good designs
Shop” project. Originally a series of articles in BLADE® Magazine, a book evolve, and I believe it. When
compilation, titled “Wayne Goddard’s $50 Knife Shop,” is available from I got started in knifemaking, I
the publisher of this book. didn’t have one clear thought
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 26 10/27/08 4:11:37 PM

This is the first knife the author ever made, and his only excuse is that he
didn’t know any better. He says to put this one in the “ugly file.”
about design. I grabbed the only

suitable knifemaking material
Blade and Handle
I could find and went to work Length
grinding on it. There was no Years ago, I settled on a length
thought as to knife proportions of 3 7/8 inches as the ideal size
or design principles. I had built for a hunting knife blade. A blade
myself a grinder, and the thrill of that stretched 4 inches seemed
shaping steel drove my activity. a bit too long, but a similarly
Computer magic shows the project
The result was a blade that shaped blade at 3 3/4 inches was
knife with two different handle
wasn’t practical and a handle too short. Splitting the difference
lengths.
that was too short. See the gave me a blade length of 3 7/8
related illustration. The knife inches and I was comfortable
models I’ve developed to date with that size. to make the handles longer to
are good designs because they When you become accustomed accommodate the general public.
evolved. It just isn’t possible to using a knife with a 4-inch On occasion, I might even go
to get everything right the first blade and then switch to one oversize on handle length in an
time. A maker starting out today that’s slightly shorter, or longer, attempt to keep the grip from
has some advantages. He or she you’ll notice a difference, and being too short.
typically has access to books you might not feel comfortable. I outfitted the “project knife”
and magazines full of good knife I’ve offered a basic hunting for this book with my standard 4
designs to study and analyze. knife blade of 3 7/8 inches to my 1/4-inch handle. A knife handle
Today, there isn’t much of an customers as a standard size ever of this size can be used on blades
excuse for making ugly knives. since deciding on it and they that are up to a half-inch longer
Perhaps the best thing I can seem to be comfortable with that than the project blade. See the
teach about design is to consider length. accompanying photo for two
the flow of the lines that define a An ideal handle length can be versions of the knife. The knife
knife’s shape. Don’t do things that difficult to determine, mainly on the right in the photo is the
disrupt the flowing lines of the because people’s hands all come full-sized project knife, and on
knife. The new knifemaker should in different sizes. I’ve got short the left is a computer-enhanced
try different styles, shapes and arms and small hands for my version with a slightly shorter
sizes when starting out in this height, and at first, I made knife handle. Use your judgment on
field. With experience he or she handles that were too short for handle length but don’t opt for a
will find a unique style. some folks. I finally learned grip shorter than 4 inches.
THE WORKING KNIFE ╭ 27
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 27 10/27/08 4:11:38 PM

knives I customized, and at least
three came from broken knives.
There are lessons in all of them,
both good and bad. Often, a new
Wayne’s handle collection hangs around under a high shelf until one design comes together quicker
in the collection is needed. because I have an actual handle
to work from. See the photo of
Over the years I’ve received shape. The physical pattern gives Wayne’s handle collection.
many beautiful drawings of me something to hold in my hand
proposals for both fixed-blade
and folding knives. Many of the
and some idea as to proportion
and size. This is where needed
The Computer as
fixed-blade drawings were not changes become more obvious a Design Tool
practical to make because the and can be made. If the pattern A scanner hooked to the
handles, as drawn, were too isn’t right, I’ll use whatever parts computer is a valuable design
short. of it are right to make another tool. Drawings, illustrations
Knives on paper look quite a pattern that will get me closer. or photos are scanned into the
bit different than they do when Once the hard pattern is computer where they can be
mocked up in wood or cardboard. satisfactory, it is transferred to scaled down, scaled up, modified
The folding knife drawings were steel and the real work starts. I or just stored for future reference.
often attractive in appearance keep a lot of the hard patterns Microsoft Publisher is not only
but had blades that would not I make. Having a collection of a great program for desktop
fit into the handles when folded. rough models on hand gives me publishing projects, but also a
For these reasons, it’s always a head start on size proportions valuable tool for resizing knife
good to make mock-ups of new when I have a new design to designs.
designs. This gives you non- develop. Storage of the physical A drawing or picture appears
working models to hold in your patterns has become a problem, in Publisher with a marquee
hands, and that’s just one more so for the last several years I’ve that has eight “handles” when
step towards real knives of good kept many of them as tracings in it is selected with the curser.
designs. a big book.
Paper drawings don’t work out I’ve found it useful to have
too good for me because I can’t a collection of handles. My
draw a straight line or an evenly customers furnished some
curved one. What I can do is use of them, while others
the belt grinder to grind straight came off of
and curved lines that are what
they should be.
A drawing can be scanned into
a computer and then printed out
to whatever size is wanted. Once
the design on paper is finalized
and printed out, I use rubber
cement to glue the printout to
a piece of thin hardboard or
plywood. The pattern is then
sawed, sanded or whittled to A bowie knife design has been scaled to three different sizes.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 28 10/27/08 4:11:39 PM

Let’s say the picture is of a knife.
Depending on which handles of
the marquee are dragged one of
several ways with the computer
curser, a knife in a picture can
be lengthened without being
widened, widened without being
lengthened, or made larger or
smaller proportionately. The project knife with its utility blade shape is also shown with a semi-
Microsoft Publisher will allow skinner-style blade, yet both have the same basic handle shape. Only the
you to set up your page at any end portions of the two blades are different. Consider the difference in the
size. When I’m working on a appearance of the two handles.
bowie knife design with a 15-inch
blade, I set up a page that’s 24
inches wide. I can then work my
pattern full size and print it out.
It comes out of the printer on two
or more sheets of paper and it’s
then necessary to cut and paste The summer of 1959 found the author as a battalion supply sergeant in
them together. See the photo
Army National Guard summer camp at Gowen Field, Boise, Idaho. He
had a supply room full of cardboard boxes that needed opening and had
showing three sizes of the same
lost his pocketknife. He went to the cook shack to see if he could borrow
knife printed out from Publisher.
an edged tool and was told they were too short on knives to loan him one.
The Everyday However, they said he could have a broken butcher knife that was in one of
the garbage cans. He could find only the handle. The blade was nowhere
Working Knife to be found. He used a huge bench grinder and shaped this weird little
knife from the butcher knife handle. You can see from the hole in the blade
Design where the rivet closest to the blade used to be. He fixed the little knife up
The design for the project with a cardboard sheath and was back in the box-opening business.
knife is practical and simple
from a construction standpoint. been stripped away. Therefore handmade knives.
Although a simple knife, it’s also our project knife won’t showcase I’ve always figured that
a good working knife. History is fancy file work, gold plating, upturned points were left over
on our side because it was simple inlays, attached guards, bolsters from the bowie knife era. The
working knives that got meat or a pommel cap. It will employ drop-point blade is not only
from the hoof and into the kettle. only that which is necessary to stronger but also more useful for
And, there were all the other get the work done. almost every job of which I can
cutting chores required for those The blade is known as a fathom. The drop-point blade
living close to the land. A fancy “dropped point.” I call it a utility allows the opening cuts on game
design or beautiful finish wasn’t shape. If you look up “utility” in a animals to be made without the
required; all that was necessary dictionary, you’ll find something point digging in. When it comes
was a sharp blade with a good like, “the quality of being of to skinning or processing meat,
handle to grip. practical use.” The advantages of the drop point, or the slight
It’s been said that the perfect the drop-point blade are many modification known as a “semi-
design is achieved when when compared to the upturned skinner,” is hard to beat. See the
everything that isn’t necessary has point on some commercial and related photo.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 29 10/27/08 4:11:40 PM

The guard of the project knife An attached guard has become knife that has a guard on it is
is integral to the handle—the an accepted design element of like thinking you won't have an
guard and handle are one piece— the modern hunting knife, and it automobile accident if you wear
and this simplifies construction. serves as a safety feature, keeping your seat belt all the time.
I’ve offered hunting and utility a knife user’s fingers away from
knives without guards for 35 the edge. Handle Materials
years. An attached guard must My opinion is that thinking The modern hunting knife
be ordered from me as an extra. you won't cut yourself with a should be built to last. First class,
beautiful handle materials might
raise the cost of making a knife
but are well worth the difference.
I have seen many knives sold, not
only by me, but also by others,
to customers who were actually
buying the handles. The blades
were secondary.
A modern knife is apt to have
a plastic-based handle material.
These materials are waterproof,
strong and dependable.
Sharpening will eventually wear
out a blade, but of the countless
elements that can attack natural
handle materials, few, if any,
will have an effect on Micarta®.
A knife with a stainless blade
The author’s workbench in 2005 is a far distant thing from the bookcase he and a Micarta handle could
used as a bench in 1963. outlast its owner. My favorite
material for a foolproof handle is
Micarta, which is in the family of
thermoplastics and includes more
than two dozen types of material.
Traditional materials for
handles depend somewhat on
the country of origin. Wood,
ivory, horn, antler and bone were,
and are, still used for handles.
A disadvantage to using natural
materials for knife handles is
that they are subject to cracking,
or attack by bugs and animal
teeth. (I’ve had to replace several
handles, and also some sheaths
that were chewed by dogs.)
The homemade grinder is used as an abrasive cut-off saw. Natural materials have the
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 30 10/27/08 4:11:52 PM

ability to soak up moisture when
wet, then shrink and sometimes
crack when they dry. The trend
today is towards using wood that
has been stabilized. Wood can be
stained nearly any color and then
stabilized.
Hardwoods should be cut just
a bit oversized as compared
to the projected dimensions of
the finished handles, and then
be stored in a dry place for a
minimum of six months. A year is
better. The wood in the center of
a 2-by-4-inch chunk of hardwood
will have quite a bit of moisture
Here are three primitive ways to hold knives. At the left is the simple knife
in it compared to the outside
board. A clamp furnishes the force to hold the blade. At center is a knife
layer. Like almost everything else,
vise inspired by Gene Chapman. At the left is a sophisticated knife vise
I learned this the hard way.
invented by the author; it uses wedge power.
About 25 years ago, I bought
a beautiful piece of Macassar cut them off the chunk. Number The wood sample is weighed
ebony that was 2 inches thick, 8 one was the first one off the every 4-to-6 hours until such a
inches wide and about 18 inches outside (the driest) of the ebony time that there is no more loss in
long. I got it from a wood dealer section. Number four was closest weight. This shows me how much
who had the large board it was to the center of the ebony and it moisture it has to give up. At this
cut from for more than 15 years. was the one that shrunk enough point, the material is drier than it
I had no reason to suspect that to crack. I had cut my slabs off should be. If attached to a knife
it wasn’t dry enough to use. I of the end that was fresh cut by in the dehydrated condition, it
brought it home and sawed off the wood dealer. The other end will probably swell as it becomes
enough pieces for a matching was sealed with wax so there was normalized to the average
bowie and Texas toothpick set I no way for the wood to be free humidity and temperature of its
was making. of excess moisture. The moisture new home. The trick is having
The knife set was finished and came out fairly quick once the material on hand with average
delivered. Within four months, slabs were exposed to the warm moisture content (5-8 percent),
one of the handle slabs had air of an Oregon summer. then, with luck, it will stay close
shrunk enough to cause cracks I check the moisture content to the same size and remain
to develop around the pins at of new wood by weighing a small attached to the steel of the knife
the ends of a five-pin pattern. piece (1/2-inch square) on a scale tang. I’m told that stabilized
One slab had shrunk very little; used for measuring powder for wood solves this problem.
the other three slabs had shrunk reloading cartridges. I write the
to varying degrees, and I had to weight on the test piece with The Project
replace three of the four handle pencil and then put it under my Our project is to make an
slabs. epoxy curing light. The light is everyday working knife. The
Let’s pretend that I numbered adjusted so that the temperature knife we decide to carry for our
those slabs from one to four as I is around 120 degrees Fahrenheit. daily cutting chores will depend
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 31 10/27/08 4:11:53 PM

These are push sticks for hand sanding. Note the different types, each for a different type of work.
on our experience and the type equipment and methods to work Setting up Shop
work we do. An electrician my way through the basic project I recommend easing into the
working in the mild climate of knife. Along the way, I’ll explain purchase of major tools. I’ve
Eugene, Oregon, will need a very how it would be done with more heard of new knifemakers giving
different knife than that used by sophisticated tools. excuses for sloppy workmanship
a rancher from Wyoming. On The project knife will have a because of poor tools. Frankly, it
the other hand, my experience narrow tang with a two-piece was not the tools but the makers’
is that most folks actually get handle that is carved out to own lack of skill that was the
the work done with whatever receive the tang. This is a handle problem. Give a new maker all
knife they have, regardless if it that requires no attached guard, the tools in the world and it will
is truly suitable for the job. The and can be done with all hand be a long time before he or she
governing principle is that when tools. I like the lightweight feel is turning out consistently good
real work has to be done, any of knives put together with this work.
knife is better than no knife. See method and employ the process I’ve been digging around in
the photo of a quickie survival often for every type of knife, from the handmade knife scene for
knife I made before I was a small utility pieces to larger camp 42 years, and I’ve rarely seen a
knifemaker. knives. See the drawing showing “talent for knifemaking.” It’s all
I’ll be taking the approach the profile of all the knife parts, about practice and it takes weeks,
to making the working knife and use it as a pattern for pieces months and sometimes years to
as if it will be the first project necessary to complete the project develop the skills necessary to
for a new maker. I’ll use simple knife. make knives good enough to hold
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 32 10/27/08 4:11:54 PM

grinder as shown in the photo
will save a lot of time compared
to cutting the steel with a
hacksaw.
You’ll need some type of
workbench. I used an imported
version of the Black & Decker
Work Mate while making the
project knife. It cost less than
$10 on sale at Harbor Freight. I
attached a heavy tabletop to it. It
This is a faithful replica of the first homemade grinder that the author
was still not real solid so I made a
made in 1963.
shelf to sit on the cross supports
up in the marketplace. and some scraps of soft wood. for the legs, and I put a lot of
It will be all right to use more Employ the design process heavy stuff on it. If a work table
advanced tools if you have them. described earlier, then draw wiggles too much when draw-
I’m in favor of anything to make your dream knife on a piece of filing or hand sanding, just back
the work easier and quicker. wood and carve it to the finished it up into a corner of the room so
Always remember, being quick shape. You’ll learn how to look it can’t get away. See the photo.
isn’t good for the sake of being at a piece of material to see if Following are tools to gather:
quick. Neat and accurate work it is being kept symmetrical as 1) Safety glasses, goggles or
is what will make you a good you progress. You’ll learn how to face mask;
knifemaker. It’s better yet if you shape a nice radius on
can be quick and do good work. the handle surfaces. You
Don’t wait until you have a may not want to be
dream shop. The idea is to get a wood carver but
started with what you have. My this exercise will get
first knives were in made in 1973 you started on your
on the sun porch of a rented journey to being
apartment. My first work station a knifemaker. A
was a discarded bookcase that bonus is that it
supported my homemade grinder. will also give
An old wood chair without a you practice
back served as a platform to sharpening
hold things on for drilling with knives.
my electric drill. I didn’t have You’ll have
much but I had a real bad case more than
of that incurable disease named enough to get
“I want to be a knifemaker.” started if you
My workbench in 2005 is a big have some of the
improvement over the chair and things commonly
The sandpaper
bookcase on the sun porch. See found in a home shop, such as a
cutting jig will make 1-inch
the photos. bench grinder, drill press and a strips of square sheets, at 8 inches
You can make knives if all vise. An abrasive cutting wheel by 8 inches, for use on the author’s
you have is a sharp pocketknife on a bench grinder or homemade flat-disc machine.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 33 10/27/08 4:11:55 PM

2) Dust respirator, either paper 13) Center punch; metal container with a lid so that
or deluxe. Any protection is better 14) Thrift store toaster any potential flame-up can be
than using nothing; oven with an accurate oven snuffed out. Used for hardening
3) Homemade grinder, store thermometer; the blade, my goop quench for
bought grinder, angle grinder or 15) Telescoping magnet from a the project knife consisted of
whatever you have access to; dollar store; one-third cooking fat saved from
4) Drill press (electric or hand 16) Sharpening stone. Wet or the kitchen, one-third paraffin
drill) with drill bits to match the dry paper will work if you don’t and one-third hydraulic oil or
pin sizes; have a stone; automatic transmission fluid;
5) Flexible disc sanding 17) Flexible disc sanding 2) Blade material—precision-
attachment with both wood and attachment with assorted discs; ground flat stock, lawnmower
metal working disks. Look for and blades or worn-out files;
the ones that use the sticky-back 18) Ball-peen hammer. 3) Handle material—wood or
discs; Micarta;
6) Vise with soft jaw inserts.
In my opinion, top of the line
Gather the 4) Coarse, medium and fine
sandpaper;
Wilton vises are the strongest that Following 5) Duro Quick Set epoxy;
can be found, and also the most 6) Fine steel wool;
expensive. I’ve been fortunate to
Materials: 7) Knife board made of
1) One or two gallons of oil for
have a nice collection that I found scrap hardwood, 3/4-inch
quenching the blade. I call it a
in used condition at reasonable thick, 2 inches wide, 12 inches
“goop quench.” Used motor oil,
prices; long, shown being used in the
cooking oil, cooking fat saved
7) Propane torch. A accompanying photo;
from the kitchen, automatic
BernzOmatic® model JTH7 is the 8) Push sticks for backing up
transmission oil or hydraulic oil
best; sandpaper. Note the variety of
will suffice. Various mixtures
8) High temperature, soft fire materials and shapes shown in
of some or all of the oils or fat
bricks to make a one-brick forge; the related photo;
will also work. The oil or fat
9) File for steel; 9) One or two C-clamps; and
should be in a
10) Optional wood rasp for
rough-shaping handles;
11) One or two C-clamps;
12) Scribe for marking
metals (made out of an old
triangular or round file);
Shown are two views of a double-disc machine. The missing disc was on backorder as of the photo taking. It will
be completed with adjustable work tables and guards.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 34 10/27/08 4:11:57 PM

10) Wire for pins, (welding
wire, nails, a coat hanger,
whatever you have.)
Here’s a Major
Tool List:
1. A 2-inch-by-72-inch belt
grinder, which is the standard of
the handmade knife industry for
many good reasons. For that size
of a belt grinder, excellent, quality
belts are available in any grit and
type you would ever need. The
Coote belt grinder gets my vote as
the most machine for the money.
It comes without a motor. With
some luck, a suitable motor can
be found for a fraction of the
cost of a machine with a motor
Demonstrated are three ways to cut bar stock.
installed. The Coote 2-inch-by-
72-inch grinder with a 10-inch Knifemakers supply companies pocket. it is wise to purchase
contact wheel is around $400. sell these adapters, as does rather than do with makeshift
The Coote is available from the Sears. You’ll need some 8-inch tools. I got my start in 1963 with
manufacturer, no middleman, or 10-inch buffing wheels and a homemade grinder. See the
and that saves dollars; compounds from one of the photo of the faithful replica of
2. A drill press—the imported knifemaker supply companies. that machine, which was used for
type for $75-150 will be adequate. The author sets his up as shown the making of the project knife.
See the accompanying photo for in the related photo; and
the author’s collection of drill
presses;
5. Band saw for wood. A small
one from Sears or an import
The Angle
3. A decent bench grinder can place will do to start with. Grinder
be purchased for $75 or less. I’ve made two knives using only
Check with Sears, Costco or one
of the import places. You might
A Homemade an angle grinder, also called a disc
grinder. The only good thing I can
not want to use a grinding wheel Bench Grinder say for it is that the belt grinder
that much, but with one end I did 90 percent of the work was not needed. The blades were
set up with an abrasive cutting on the project knife with my forged to shape, rough ground
wheel, it just might become one homemade hard-wheel grinder. with a hard abrasive disc and
of your most-often used tools; Making a grinder isn’t for then finished with the flex disc
4. A used, 1/3-to-1/2- everyone because it takes time attachment. Nothing beats them
horsepower, 1,750-rpm, double- and a certain amount of money for taking the scale off of forged
ended motor with work arbors to fashion one. If you consider blades or damascus billets. These
attached will make a good your time to be worth something grinders come in a wide variety of
enough buffer. That’s what I use. and you have the dollars in your sizes and price ranges.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 35 10/27/08 4:11:58 PM

This is a point-to-point layout for
parting the bar while profiling the
blade.
This shows the layout for drilling and breaking apart the bar stock.
Shown is the layout for creating
the radius at the tang shoulder by
but the threaded aluminum discs using drilled holes.
The Flat Disc are still in production. If you can
Machine find the discs, then the search is arbor and pillow blocks were
purchased locally. The 9-inch
The flat disc machine makes on to find an arbor on which to
it possible to create an absolute mount them. The place to look discs run on a shaft supported by
tight fit between matching for the discs is at lapidary supply ball-bearing pillow blocks. The
surfaces, something that is not stores. See the photo. advantage of the double discs
possible with a belt grinder. A paper-cutting jig cuts a full is that they allow for left- and
There are two necessary things sheet of sandpaper so that there right-hand rotation. This makes
to get the most out of a flat disc is not so much waste. See the it much easier to refine the grind
machine—the disc has to run photo. The strips created are used termination on both sides of a
extremely true, and the on/off for the hand finishing required blade. The 9-inch size allows the
switch needs to be the foot- in much of knifemaking. The 8- user to cut discs from standard-
operated type. inch square piece of sandpaper sized sandpaper. See the photo.
When material is pressed that is formed is just the size

against a disc or belt that is for a flat-disc machine. Once
the sandpaper is adhered to the
Forming
running, one end of the material
will be slightly tapered because disc, a sharp knife is used to cut the Blade
the initial contact was in that off the waste. The paper is held There are two ways for the
area. This is eliminated with a in place with 3-M #08054 Spray beginner to shape blades—stock
foot switch, which allows the Disc Adhesive. This is a great removal and forging. The forged
material to be applied to the product because three or four blade is shaped by heating the
disc prior to turning it on. The disc changes can be made before steel to the plastic stage (1,800-
material is kept in contact with it needs to be renewed. 2,100 degrees F) and then using
the disc until it stops turning My friend, Craig Morgan of a hammer to work it close to the
after the foot switch is turned off. Morgan and Daughter Knife and final shape.
I built my 8-inch, flat-disc Tool, just built a nice double-disc There was a time when all
machine with parts designed for machine for less than $350. He blades were made by forging.
lapidary work. The type of arbor purchased the discs from Texas Steel was expensive and even
that I used is no longer available, Knifemakers Supply, but the rare in those days. Stock removal
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 36 10/27/08 4:11:58 PM

usual for the tribal smith who my shop. Grinding creates smelly
made this knife. Note the branch grit that permeates the skin and
from a tree that was used for a clothing. Fine steel and wood
handle and the crude bolster to dust fills the air and settles in
keep the handle from splitting. every nook and corner.
The hole for the tang is the exact I prefer the fresh air of my
shape as the tang and that shows smithy, which isn’t much more
that the tang was burned into the than a lean-to hooked onto the
handle. back of my shop. I love to retreat
A novice knifemaker who opts to the smithy, fire up the forge,
to forge a blade does not need get some steel hot and start
a grinding machine, assuming swinging the hammer. This gets
the blade is forged close to the the juices flowing and I get the
final shape. The forged-to-shape energy to work another hour or
blade can be finished with files, two. That energy thing is hard to
stones and abrasive paper. This explain; it must be experienced.
allows the new maker to get
started making knives with a bare
minimum of equipment.
The Stock-
An advantage, for myself, to Removal Process
forging is the energy created by Stock removal has been defined
the process. I get sick and tired as taking a bar of steel and
The author bevel grinds with a of grinding and sanding inside grinding away everything that
hard-wheel grinder.
wouldn’t have been feasible

because it would have wasted
enough material to make another
knife or two. Two blades can
often be forged from the same-
sized piece of steel that would
make only one full-tang stock-
removal blade. The invention
of manmade grinding wheels
opened up the possibility for
steel to be removed quickly, and
stock removal became feasible for
making knives.
The tang is iron that was forge-
welded onto the steel blade. This
sounds like a lot of work for those
of us who have unlimited piles of
steel with which to work.
The welding of scraps to make “A” is the homemade 2-inch-by-72-inch grinder built in 1983. “B” is the
bigger pieces was business as making of sparks while flat grinding with the grinder.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 37 10/27/08 4:11:59 PM

doesn’t look like a blade. That hollow grinding is more popular. and breaking is probably faster
sounds good to me. The profile My opinion is that hollow than using a hand-powered hack
of the blade is sawed or ground grinding is necessary when using saw. At top in the related photo
to shape, and then the wedge- 1/4-inch-thick stock. The way I is a steel bar scribed to show the
shaped cross-section that tapers do things isn’t necessarily what points of two blades. At, bottom
to the cutting edge is ground in anyone else should do. I won’t the bar has been drilled and
with abrasive wheels or belts. defend my ideas or methods broken apart.
The steel bar stock selected for except to say, “That’s just the way Another way to separate the
the stock-removal blade should I do it.” blade from the bar is to scribe
not be much wider and thicker two blades on the bar stock,
than is necessary to make the
blade. It will save you a lot of
Profiling of with the point of the first blade
meeting the point of the next
grinding time if you take time the Blade blade on the bar stock. As shown
to find material of the proper Clamp your pattern onto the in the accompanying photo,
size. For the beginner, a blade steel, drill the two holes for pins, grinding the profiles will separate
thickness of no more than 1/8 place trial pins in the holes and the two blades.
inch is good because there is not scribe the outline into the steel. It’s important to have a nice,
as much material to grind off. Cut the material to length by smooth radius where the tang
The tendency today is to make using either a metal-cutting band meets the body of the blade. A
hunting and utility knives out of saw or abrasives cut-off wheel, good way to establish the radius
1/4-inch-thick steel. I don’t agree or grind the whole profile from is to use drilled holes as shown in
with this and usually choose 1/8- the bar stock. The accompanying the photo on page 36.
inch- or 5/32-inch-thick stock photo shows three ways to cut the Once the blade is separated
for my working-type knives. The blade from of the bar. from the bar, the profile is
width of the project knife blade is Another way to cut the blade carefully ground right down to
1 inch, and since I had that width off of the bar stock is to drill a the scribed line. A hard-wheel
of bar in 1/8-inch-thick stock, it series of holes and then break grinder works fine for shaping
worked out perfectly. it apart. A properly sharpened the profile, however, half-dull
I prefer flat grinding for drill bit will remove metal quite ceramic belts, like the Norton
hunting knives, even though rapidly. You will find that drilling SG Hogger on a belt grinder, will
“A” is the layout dye, scribe and center finder made from worn-out files, as well as a close-up of the
centerline being marked. “B” is a surface gauge modified with a carbide scribe to make it suitable for marking the
centerline on a blade. The blade and surface gauge are placed on a flat surface, and the adjustment screw is used
to find the center. By moving the blade past the point of the scribe, the line is scribed.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 38 10/27/08 4:12:00 PM

This homemade jig was fashioned for checking the blade bevel. The three views show the construction details. It’s
about 4 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide. The important thing is that the joint is offset so that the blade edge can
go completely to the bottom of the gauge.
remove steel at least four times Leaving some material to take off
faster. The bevel-grinding process after heat-treat makes the quench
Hard-Wheel
is constantly creating half-dull operation a lot safer for the blade. Grinding
belts that are perfect for profile Blades can, and do, warp
grinding. during the quench operation, and of the Bevels
the extra material will allow some The stock-removal method
Grinding the straightening to be done with

the grinder. The grind prior to
can be completed several ways.
The most common and best is
Bevels the heat-treating process doesn’t with a belt grinder using either a
There are two stages to any have to be exactly precise. The flat platen to make a flat-ground
type of blade grind. The first stage odd little things that are not quite blade or a contact wheel to make
occurs prior to heat-treating the right can usually be fixed in the a hollow-ground blade.
blade, and the second is after final grinding process. An adequate job can be done
the heat-treat process. It’s best to The stock-removal knifemaker with a bench grinder, sometimes
leave approximately 20 percent starts with a rectangular cross- called a hard-wheel grinder. The
of the steel to take off after the section of steel and turns it into wheel leaves a lot of little tracks
heat treatment. Edges can warp a wedge shape, which can be that need to be evened out by
or crack when they are too thin arrived at with several different draw filing, using hand stones,
going into the quench process. methods. or with a powered flat disc or
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 39 10/27/08 4:12:01 PM

A front view of the grinder shows the chuck attached to the shaft with the disc-sanding attachment in place. At the
right is the sanding/smoothing operation.
flexible disc. See the photo of hundred knives with such a setup when you figure their cost into
the author using a homemade before I had a belt grinder. the sale price of your product;
grinder to shape the blade bevel. Once I built my first belt it’s your customer who buys
When I got my start in grinder, I only used the grinding the material. The only time the
knifemaking, all I owned was a wheel for rough-grinding blade expense comes out of your pocket
homemade hard-wheel grinder profiles in order to save on is if you can’t sell the knife.
to profile and to grind the rough sanding belts. The time required
bevels. At first, I smoothed blades cancelled the savings in belts. It The Flat Grind
up using a flexible-disc attached was actually kind of foolish if I When using a belt grinder,
to, and rotated by, an electric would have considered my time the flat surface is relatively easy
drill. Before long, I had mounted to be worth money. to establish. That is not so easy
an electric motor on an upright Sharp, new belts are required using a grinding wheel because
frame and attached the flexible for getting the bevels set up it takes lots of different “tracks”
disc to the shaft, which put the accurately. Many grinding errors to make the wedge, and then the
disc in the horizontal position. that new makers make are caused tracks have to be blended into the
This allowed me to control by trying to work with dull belts. surface of the steel with a disc
the blade with both hands and Make up your mind that each sander, or by draw filing.
see what I was doing. I ruined hunting knife is going to cost you Use a red, waterproof marking
more than a few abrasive discs the price of at least two new belts. pen to ink in the blade prior to
by jamming them on the sides To build a bowie knife takes as each new grit size. I use 60-grit
of blades where the discs were many as five belts. belt for rough grinding the blade,
cutting towards the edges. With It’s time for an adjustment to then go to a 120-grit belt, which
this type of setup, it would have the thinking process if you worry creates a fine enough finish prior
been nice to have a reversible about the expense of materials for to heat-treat. Use an OptiVISOR
motor. I made close to three knifemaking. Materials are free or other headband magnifier
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 40 10/27/08 4:12:13 PM

to check your progress. Any
grinding scratches that remain
will show up easier because
of the red ink. Check for those
remaining scratches under a good
light. Look at the blade from tip
to tang, then from edge to back.
The flat grind is easy to get right
when using the belt grinder with
a flat platen. See the related
photo.
Medium Crystalon stone is used for creating the radius on the back of
Sequence the blade. Note the grooves worn in it from many years of use for this
operation. When a groove gets worn to where it is too wide, just start
for Grinding another one. Use odor-free kerosene or lamp oil for lubricant on the stone.
the Bevels: width of the bevel is established steel to take off after the blade is
1) Double-check the blade and fairly flat. As an alternate hardened and tempered;
profile to see if it is correct; method, you can create a convex 9) Put together a blade-wedge-
2) To establish the thickness blade shape as you go along. checking jig made of wood or
of the edge, I like to make two Use a straight edge to check other material. See the related
lines with approximately 1/32- the progress of either the flat or photo. Adjust the jig on a knife
inch between the two. Grinding convex grind. If you find that blade that has a wedge that you
to the line from each side will you are having a lot of trouble like, lock the wing nut and then
leave approximately the correct with the grinding it would be put the blade you’re working
thickness at the edge to make it appropriate to get some mild in the gauge to see if it is thin
safe for the quenching operation. steel on which to practice; enough;
If the bevels are brought down 6) Be especially careful to not 10) If you don’t have a belt
to a thin, nearly sharp edge, the grind past the drawn lines that grinder, use a disc sanding
edge may crack or warp during mark the termination point of the setup to smooth up the tracks
the quench. The photo on page grind. Also, don’t grind so high on from the grinding wheel. If the
38 shows two ways to mark the the back as to make the back of grinding wheel was 36-40 grit,
centerlines; the blade thinner than you want; start disc sanding with an 80-
3) Mark the place on the side 7) Grind several passes on one grit disc, then go to a 120-grit
of the blade where the bevels side of the blade and then grind disc, and then to a 240-grit disc.
will end, sometimes called the the same amount on the other That will be fine enough to go
“plunge grind” or “termination side. This keeps the stress in the into the heat-treating sequence.
point;” blade more uniform. Taking off The self-adhesive discs are used
4) Grind a flat bevel, at all the material from one side of here; the flexible disc attachment
approximately 45 degrees, down the blade before the other side is was made for them. See the
to scribed line on each side of the ground can cause it to warp; accompanying photo. Trim off
blade; 8) Once more, do not make any excess disc material so that
5) Next, grind a series of the edge too thin prior to heat- a fairly sharp corner can be
shallow grooves, or tracks, the treatment. You should leave created;
length of the blade until the approximately 20 percent of the 11) You may find that your
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 41 10/27/08 4:12:15 PM

blade is slightly convex, but that rounded junction where the don’t have a belt grinder. With
is fine as long as it isn’t too thick; tang meets the ricasso. Give the knife work, the draw filing is
12) Smooth up the back of whole blade a once over and it is used to get the blade flat prior to
the blade, or leave it square, the now ready for the heat-treating heat-treating the blade. The blade
latter of which, to me, seems a bit sequence. will be too hard to draw file after
unfinished. I always create a false being hardened and tempered.
grind, or simply round the back Draw Filing The file is held at both ends and
of the blade. The working knife Draw filing is an old-school is alternately pushed and pulled
will have a rounded back that is technique that allows a surface across the work. The action of the
first rough shaped with a file, then to be worked extremely flat. It file on a blade would be to draw
finished with a grooved stone. The is a good skill to develop if you it the length of the blade. See
photo shows how I use a medium
Crystalon stone with a groove in it
to get a nice radius on the back of
the blade;
13) Use a fine stone or
sandpaper to get all coarse
grinding marks out of the edge,
with the movement of the stone
or sandpaper being from the
blade ricasso (between the blade
and tang) to the tip and back.
This eliminates any “stress risers”
that might lead to an edge crack
during the quenching process. Use
your fingernail to feel for coarse
grinding marks, nicks or anything
that’s not smooth. They’re called
“stress risers.” The stress created
in the quench can cause a crack
to form at a stress riser, and they
must be eliminated;
14) Do not use the flexible disc
on the ricasso. That should be
done with a fine belt on a platen
or flat disc, or by hand as shown
in the picture. The photo shows
how a sheet of wet or dry paper
is folded in half, clamped to a
flat piece of steel and the ricasso
Hand-sanding gets the ricasso flat and free of scratches. The wet or dry
is finished with handwork. This
paper is folded double on back of a plate of steel. The sandpaper is held at
method takes a bit of time but the the ends by spring clamps. Start with 80- or 120-grit paper, then progress
results are nice when taken down finer and finer until the desired finish is reached. The author usually stops
to a 600-grit finish; and at a 600-grit finish. This is the way to get things flat and crisp looking when
15) Be sure that there is a you don’t have a flat disc machine.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 42 10/27/08 4:12:15 PM

the photo for the setup for draw
filing.
When the file is pushed, as in
normal filing, the teeth are more
apt to dig into the work and leave
a rough finish. A standard mill
bastard file works best for getting
a smooth finish. A double-cut file
will remove material quicker but
will leave small ridges that have
to be worked out with the mill
bastard file.
A light touch is best because it
keeps the teeth from digging too
deep. Keep a file card close by,
and every so many strokes, use
it to keep the teeth free of filings. A draw-filing setup shows the blade clamped to a knife board for support
When the teeth are allowed to and safety.
plug up, it can cause galling of
the surface and that will only because it can be treated so that success when the blade is capable
make more work for the draw it is extremely hard, springy or of doing the work expected of it.
filer. If the file is lubricated with relatively soft. If a blade is too soft, it will not
chalk dust, it is supposed to help As knifemakers, we can utilize stay sharp and could actually
keep the teeth from clogging. the extreme forms that steel bend from being used for hard
I’ve tried it both ways and don’t can be heat-treated to for our work. If it is too hard, it will
notice much difference; it may advantage. The best example of chip or break in normal use. The
depend on the type of material this is a blade that has been either successful knife heat-treatment
being worked. selectively hardened or selectively leaves the blade just right, not
There are plenty of cheap, tempered. Such a blade can too hard but not too soft. The
imported files for sale. I’ve tried have an extremely hard edge, yet ideal hardness is best worked out
some of them and found them withstand a 90-degree flex test. by trial and error by comparing
to be a waste of money. It pays This is possible because the edge blades with new types of steel or
to buy good, quality files and is hard, the center section of the heat-treatments against blades of
Nicholson is the brand that I blade is spring tempered and the known value.
prefer. Time is money and they back is relatively soft. See the There are three elements to
will make the work faster and photo of a successful flex test any heat-treating process—
smoother. demonstrated by Ed Caffrey. heating, cooling and time. A
Heat-treating can be described little difference in temperature
Heat-treating as certain time/temperature can have a big effect on the
Civilization as we know it treatments performed on a metal results. The element of time is
would not be possible if man to gain specific strength, ductility perhaps less important, but it is
had not learned how to utilize or other properties. The heart of always the correct combination
iron and steel to the high degree any knife is the heat-treatment of time and temperature that
of which it is employed today. the blade received. The heat is necessary to accomplish the
Steel is unique and useful treatment will be considered a transformations that give the
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 43 10/27/08 4:12:16 PM

The Quench
When heated to a certain point
and cooled quickly, the steel
becomes hard, brittle and full of
stress; this is called the quench.
This form of steel is known as
“martensite.” Martensite, as
it comes from the quenching
process, is brittle, full of stress
and unsuitable for a knife.
Heating the martensite to a
lower temperature will soften it
somewhat, relieve the stress, and
if the temperature was correct,
the result will be a serviceable
product. The low temperature
treatment, usually between 375-
500 F, is called tempering, or
drawing the temper.
Heat Sources
The heat source for the
quenching process must generate
an even heat and the temperature
needs to be controllable. If the
heat source is too hot, it will be
difficult to get a slow and uniform
Montana blade smith Ed Caffrey demonstrates the strength of a selectively
heat on the blade. When the blade
heat-treated blade in Dave Brandon’s shop.
is brought up to temperature too
desired results. Each steel type The intended use for the knife fast or in a heat source that it
has its own unique combination will determine the maximum too hot, the thin sections usually
of time/temperature cycles that hardness that will be acceptable. overheat. The gas forge is an
will result in a blade of superior I’m often asked what steel excellent source of heat for the
strength and cutting ability. type is best, or what steel type I quenching process when it can be
Edge-holding ability is almost prefer. My usual answer is that it adjusted to the temperature range
entirely dependent on a relatively depends on the heat-treatment. required.
high hardness. I would estimate As a general rule, proper heat- Here’s how a gas forge works:
that 95 percent of handmade treating is more important A flame heats the liner of the
knives are between 57-61 Rc on than the steel type. A relatively forge or furnace and the radiant
the Rockwell hardness scale. The simple steel, when properly heat- heat from the lining heats the
specific alloy elements in some treated, will outperform a more material. A burner-tube or torch
types of steel will allow them to sophisticated steel that has a burning in the open air to heat a
have more strength than other defective heat-treat. I’ve proved work-piece wastes what I would
types at the same hardness. this many times. estimate to be 200 percent or
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 44 10/27/08 4:12:17 PM

more of the potential heat. “Extendo Forge” evolved. The treating blades and occasionally
When the flame is contained Extendo Forge employs one and tempering with the soft-back
in a heat-chamber or something a half bricks to gain a longer tempering jig. The photo shows
as simple as the heat trapper chamber. the Extendo Forge with the JTH-7
described below, the result will The main thing is that the hose torch.
be a more even heat and a larger bricks have to be of a soft, To make it, you’ll need two
work-piece can be heated. The high-temperature type. A types of firebricks—one or two
flame from the torch or burner BernzOmatic-style propane of the soft, high-temperature
should never aim directly at the torch furnishes the heat for the type, and two or three of the
work piece, but instead should little forge. This little forge is hard, low-temperature bricks
be directed so that the flame can not just a novelty item; mine that help hold the soft bricks in
wrap around the work, heating gets used almost every day. It position. If you don’t have any
the forge liner at the same time. has replaced my medium-sized bricks, lying around you will find
My first homemade, tube-type Dragon Breath forge for many them in the yellow pages under
“Dragon Breath” forge was built heating jobs. Typical uses are for “Refractories”. If that doesn’t get
primarily for forge welding in forging blades, annealing, heat- results, call a brick mason to find
a temperature range of around
2,300 F. It had a forced-air burner
that was not adjustable over a
wide range. The solution for me
was to build a second forge that
was designed to run at lower
temperatures suitable for heat-
treating.
That meant it had to have a
smaller chamber and a smaller
burner tube with a proportionally
smaller orifice. The smaller forge
has worked out well for heat-
treating and forging. The bonus
is that I’m not bothered with
the borax flux contamination of
blades the way I was when I used
the welding forge for forging and
heat-treating.
The One-
Brick Forge
The one-brick forge I created
started out with one brick and
proved to be incredibly useful.
As I learned more about working
with soft bricks and found a
better torch, what I call the Pictured is the Extendo Forge.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 45 10/27/08 4:12:17 PM

The one-brick forge is shown with a blade heated for the quench. This picture was posed. With an actual hardening
heat, and the color of the blade would have been more uniform. Note the pan of “goop quench” ready at the right
side of the picture.
out where he gets firebricks. The firebrick forge with the dangerous situation. The safety
The common hard bricks will JTH7 torch will easily heat 1/4- holder is made from a large-size
not work to make the little forge. inch-by-1-inch bar stock to forge juice can that is mounted to
The high temperature bricks, blades from 4-6 inches long. a plywood base. The holder is
sometimes called “insulating Most other torches can only be then held to the workbench with
bricks” are absolutely necessary. used “on,” without any way to a wood screw.
The temperature range for the regulate the heat. The photo A safety holder for the torch
soft bricks is 2,800-3,000 F. shows the project blade being would have saved a roof that
There is only one brand and heated. partially burned off a house in
model propane torch that I Test your one-brick forge by our neighborhood. A bicycle
recommend. It’s the BernzOMatic placing a piece of 1-inch-by- fell against a workbench and
JTH-7 “hose torch.” It’s named a 1/4-inch bar stock in the heat knocked a propane torch off and
“hose torch” for the 4-footh hose chamber. Fire up the torch and onto the floor. The torch wasn’t
with a torch tip on the end. There see how long it takes to bring running but when it hit the
is also a regulator valve on the it up to forging temperature. It cement floor the torch broke off
bottle. shouldn’t take more than 5-6 the bottle, releasing the gas. The
A regulator valve is necessary minutes to get 3 or more inches escaping gas was ignited by the
because it allows the temperature of the bar up to the forging pilot light on the water heater.
to be adjusted. The hose torch temperature. The flames went up the wall and
runs extremely hot on the high It’s important to have a safety into the attic through the access
end but can be adjusted back holder for the 16-ounce propane door that had been left ajar.
to run cool enough to use for bottle. The small, propane To make the mini forge,
annealing and hardening small torches can be dangerous if carve the 1-inch-by-1-1/2-inch
parts. When running on the dropped or knocked off of a heat chamber hole lengthwise
high end, you’ll like the extra workbench. The valve unit can completely through the brick
heat because it makes for quick break off and the propane will with a junk knife blade. Or drill
heating of the chamber. be quickly released causing a it out with an old drill bit and
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 46 10/27/08 4:12:20 PM

then scrape it out to make the to use a regulator block. I use a
rectangular hole. The 1-inch
Oxygen/ heavy chunk of steel adjusted so
hole in the side is named the Acetylene Torch that the edge of a blade placed
“fire hole;” it goes in only far The oxygen/acetylene (A/E) on it is about half an inch under
enough to reach the heat hole. torch is an excellent source of the surface of the oil. The oil is
See the photo that shows the heat for the quenching process heated to 90-140 F. The blade
location of the heat hole. and one that I used for many is heated and placed in the oil,
You want the flame to wrap years. I have used it to harden point down, at about a 45-degree
around the bottom of the work 3,000 or more blades. I stopped angle, and then rocked down on
so as to heat it more uniformly. using it once I started building the regulator block. The blade
The line on the brick shows the my homemade gas forges and is then rocked quickly back and
bottom of the heat chamber. using the one-brick forge. The forth a few times to be sure that
Don’t put the torch tip directly only disadvantage to using A/E the whole edge gets the “fast cool”
in the heat hole, keep it an is the cost of the gas. Propane, that is necessary. The regulator
inch or so from the opening. when compared to acetylene, block can be raised or lowered to
Experiment with your torch to gives four times or more heating adjust the amount of hard edge
see where the flame is aimed to time. Although propane won’t get created in the quench.
get the most heat. as hot as A/E, it is more than hot
The heat chamber doesn't enough for our use. Tempering
need to go all the way through The A/E flame is over 5,000 Tempering is a low temperature
the length of the brick if you degrees F, but it is easy to learn to heat cycle or cycles necessary to
are forging only small blades. A manipulate the torch and blade soften (temper) the martensite
half-brick that is drilled partway to get an even heat. It is wise to a bit, and at the same time
through is positioned at the practice getting an even heat on a relieve the stresses developed in
back end of the forge. With junk knife blade or piece of scrap the quench. The final form of
the open end of the half brick steel. the steel in a finished blade is
against the heat chamber, blades The A/E torch is perfect for an tempered martensite. Tempering
as long as 10 inches can be edge-hardening quench in which of knife blades made of carbon or
heated for forging or quenching. only the edge portion of the carbon alloy steel is in the range
The solid end of the half brick blade is heated to the hardening of 375-500 F.
is butted up against the end of temperature. The back of the It is important to have the
the heat chamber when shorter blade remains at a temperature correct degree of hardness as a
work is being heated. where it does not fully harden in result of the tempering process.
Carve a notch in the side of a a quench where the whole blade In the case of a knife blade, it
soft fire brick to make a cavity is submerged in the oil. Blades is essential to have a fine grain
large enough for heating parts that are edge heated with the A/E structure. A weak, coarse-grained
that are larger than the hole in torch can be edge quenched or blade may be the result of over
the mini-forge. This works for fully quenched. heating during forging or heating
straightening out coil springs for the quench. A blade with a
or other curved pieces. The The Regulator fine grain structure will always
part to be heated is held in the
recess where the flame can wrap
Block for Edge show superior strength to one
of the same hardness that has a
around it so that it is being Quenching coarse grain.
heated from all sides. When it is desirable to do an In supervising the American
edge quench in oil, it is good Bladesmith Society journeyman
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 47 10/27/08 4:12:21 PM

A $4 oven thermometer is
mounted to the rack as a visual
indicator of the temperature.
Do the following to test your
oven before tempering any
blades: Turn on the oven and set
the control at 375 F; allow 20
minutes for the temperature to
become uniform; put a freshly
ground piece of steel into the
This side view shows the location of the fire, which is ahead of the center. oven; leave it for 45 minutes;
The opening at the front where the work enters causes a loss in heat, and remove the steel; let it cool; and
the flame entering closer to the opening helps get a more even heat in note the color.
the chamber. The line on the brick shows the bottom of the heat hole. This The hue of carbon steel should
location allows the flame to wrap around the work being heated. Note be somewhere between straw
the wires holding the brick together. The bricks do crack and fall apart if
color and brown. It should be of
not wired, however placing a hard brick on the side opposite the fire hole
a uniform hue over the length of
and another on top will allow the little forge to cool down slower and the
the steel. The color that appears
cracking problem seems to not be so bad.
is oxide formed by the heat,
and the hue is a fairly accurate
indication of the temperature
within the same types of steel.
You might need to put a piece
of steel between the heating
element and rack if it appears
that one part of the blade got
hotter than the rest. Adjust the
Three views of the tempering gizmo show how the
heat control so that you are
stainless steel spacer is used to keep narrow blades from sitting
getting a dark straw or brown
too deep in the copper body.
color. You should be able to cut
smith and master smith cutting, oven. It’s important to temper into the edge with a file.
chopping and flex-test activities, immediately in order to relieve I’m now using a Farberware
I’ve noticed that the few broken the highly stressed condition Convection oven for tempering
blades all had a coarse or of the martensite formed in the carbon and carbon-alloy steels.
questionable grain size. Blades successful quench. I used the (That is anything up to 550 F.) I
fail because of poor quality oven in the house for many years purchased the Farberware oven
heat-treating; it’s usually not and the family didn’t like the from a thrift store for $5. It has a
the fault of the steel itself. Poor smell if I didn’t get all the oil off large capacity, and since the heat
steel with good heat-treating of the blades. It was good when I source is outside the chamber, the
can make a superior blade when finally figured out I could do my heat is uniform.
compared to one made of good tempering in a toaster oven kept An alternate tempering method
steel with bad heat-treating. in the shop. Any oven that will is to use what I call a tempering
You’ll need a toaster oven for give a uniform temperature over jig. See the photo. The jig is made
tempering the freshly quenched the range from 325-500 F will of copper but could be stainless
blades, or else use the house work. steel or mild steel. Mild steel will
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 48 10/27/08 4:12:21 PM

scale away and not have as long a blue color on the back of the
a life as copper or stainless steel. blade and a dark straw color, not
Annealing
Annealing is a heat-treating
The copper sides are 3/8-inch-by- more than brown, at the edge.
process that results in steel being
1-inch by 5 inches. The gap for You should have a pan of water
in the softest condition possible.
the blade is 1/4 inch, or as wide handy to cool the edge if the color
It can then be more easily
as the thickest blade you want to moves towards the edge too fast.
worked with files or shaped by
temper with the tempering jig. The edge should be cooled with
milling and turning. New steel
The tempering jig must be a very quick dipping in and out
as it comes from the supplier is
heavy in order to hold enough of the water. Don’t just stick the
usually in the form of rectangular
heat to do an adequate selective edge in and leave it, the thermal
bar stock. It would be in the hot-
temper on larger blades. An shock could start a microscopic
rolled, annealed (HRA) form. Hot
extension on the spacer of the crack that will cause a failure at
rolling and annealing was the first
blade is necessary as a place some future time.
step in the heat-treating process,
pinch with tongs or pliers to take
and as such, the steel is ready to
the blade and jig in and out of
be worked by the stock removal
the forge. With practice, a nice
process.
selective temper can be achieved.
Practice with it before using it on
a hardened blade. As said earlier,
most of the skill used to make a
finished knife is only developed
by practice.
The tempering jig is made
small enough to fit into the heat
chamber of the firebrick forge.
The jig is heated to an orange
color, pulled out and placed on a
firebrick. The back of the blade is
set into the jig.
The blade is kept in motion by
drawing it back and forth in the
slot, with more attention given
to the ricasso area. The point,
being thinner, will overheat if you The edge-quench process is performed using the author’s homemade goop
are not careful. The idea is to get as a quenching solution.
This is a freshly quenched blade.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 49 10/27/08 4:12:22 PM

going until the blade can
Heat-Treat be handled with the bare
Sequence for the fingers;

7. Wipe the residue from
Project Blade the quench off of the blade,
1. Have the tempering oven on testing the edge with the
and running with sufficient time corner of a worn file. The
for the heat to be steady; quench process is a
2. Have the quenching solution success when
close by and ready to go. No the file does
time can be wasted getting the not bite in
hot blade into the quenching but only slides
solution. If you waste a few on the steel. I have a
seconds full hardening may not container of sawdust and
be accomplished; a stiff wire brush to clean
3. Heat the blade for the the excess oil or goop from
quench using the one-brick forge, the blade. Throw the blade
or whatever source you have. in the sawdust and scrub
Heat slowly and uniformly until it around real good, then
the blade no longer attracts a give it a good work over
magnet touched to it; with the wire brush. The
4. Quickly quench edge-first light gray area of a freshly
into either warm oil with a quenched blade indicates
regulator block or a pan of goop. the hard section. See the
Be sure to get at least a half-inch photo. A blade that does not Here is the author’s brass-rod-test unit.
of the full length of the edge into exhibit this color at the edge may
the quench as soon as possible. I not have responded to the quench
use the goop quench exclusively process; the blade out when it reaches
for single-edged knives. (The room temperature;
formula for goop is found in the
materials section.) Double-edged
The Brass-Rod 10. Test the edge with the file
used previously. The file should
blades need a tip-first, straight- Test Setup bite slightly but not too deeply;
in quench in oil, deep enough to 8. Quickly sand down one side and
cover the whole blade and tang. of the blade to the bare metal, 11. Complete the finish-grind
The photo shows the edge quench and place it in the tempering on the blade and give it the brass
in a pan of goop; oven for 45 minutes to an hour. rod test.
5. Keep the edge in the Leave the oven running but take
quenching solution until the
back of the blade shows no color.
the blade out and place on a rack
to cool to room temperature.
The Brass
As the goop melts, I will often When the blade is cool enough Rod Test
quickly lift the edge out and make to handle with the fingers, place Glue a piece of 1/4-inch-
another track in the goop. This is it back in the oven for another diameter brass rod onto a piece
necessary to keep the cooling rate temper cycle of at least 45- of hardwood, or hold the brass
steadily coming down; minutes; rod in a vise with the top half
6. Keep the cooling of the blade 9. Turn the oven off and take above the jaws. See the photo.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 50 10/27/08 4:12:33 PM

Pictured are the holders for hand finishing stones.
Apply the edge of the knife to it is not intended to replace a

the brass rod at the same angle hardness test to determine that
used for sharpening, which is a blade was fully hardened. You
approximately 15 degrees. Apply might think of it as a substitute
enough pressure so that you for a Rockwell tester. The brass
can see the edge being deflected rod test is only a comparison These ergonomic push sticks are
by the rod. If applied similar test to determine what is, in my used for the hand-finishing process.
pressure to the rod while it was opinion, a hardness that will hold
on a scale, you would find the up in normal use. I started using cloth. My best photo does not do
“pressure to deflect” to be 35-40 is about 27 years ago and still the blade justice in bringing out
pounds. think it is the best non field-use the beauty and fine detail of the
A good light source behind the test I’ve found. complex temper line.
test area is necessary so that you Following are some of the
can see the deflection. If the edge
chips out with moderate pressure
Finishing many ways to finish blades. Each
different finish gives the blade a
on the rod, the edge will most the Blade distinct personality. Experiment
likely chip out in use. If the edge There are a variety of ways to with the different finishes so
stays bent over in the deflected finish the blade once it has been you will have the most suitable
area, it will more than likely bend hardened and tempered. The ready when the right blade comes
in use and be too soft to hold project knife was worked down along.
an edge. The edge of a superior to a 240-grit finish with a flexible
blade will deflect on the rod and
spring back straight.
disc and then hand finished to
about an 800-grit finish. I then
Hand-Finished
The brass rod test can quickly gave it a five-minute etch cycle Blades
determine if the blade has a good in ferric chloride to bring out Japanese sword makers who
balance of flexible strength and the temper line. The gray color did their work 300-plus years ago
hardness sufficient to hold an from the etching process was left had no power equipment. They
edge. The test is intended for on the blade because it gives it a forged the blade close to shape,
knives in the hunting knife class. slight oxide layer of protection and then used a sen (scraper)
Thin fillet knives or thick camp from tarnish and rust. to level it. After heat-treating,
knives will not respond to the test The temper line was completely with handwork,
in the same way. highlighted with a quick hand they brought the blade to a high
The brass rod test as I present rub with 2,000-grit 3M polishing degree of polish. All the abrasives
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 51 10/27/08 4:12:34 PM

used were from stones found in out the machine-made, 320-grit a waste of time to go from 120- to
nature or made from oxides of scratches with either a 320- or 320-grit paper.
metals. 400-grit wet or dry paper backed When all the scratches are
I was amazed when I first up with an ergonomic push stick. worked out, switch to 600-grit
observed such a high degree of The photo shows the style of push paper and sand at 90 degrees to
polish and was told it was all stick I use for hand finishing. the 400-grit surface. Then use
done by hand. My power grinding The first hand sanding is 800-grit paper at 90 degrees to
and polishing equipment was done in line with the length of the 400-grit finish. You might
not getting me anywhere close to the blade, and that will be at a decide not to go any further; it’s
the hand-finished sword blades. 90-degree angle to the machine your knife and your decision. Or,
Hand finishing, when done finish. You may find some ripples you might want to keep up the
well, results in a crisp and clean in the finish that are caused by a process to 2,000 grit.
definition of the surface. It gives a platen that isn’t flat or by stacking The final rub should be running
true appearance to the grind lines of the grit on the belt. You’ll need parallel with the length of the
and elegantly defines the blade to drop back to a 240-grit paper blade. The finer grits of wet or
shape. to get rid of them if they don’t dry paper might not be found
The reflections from the surface quickly come out with the 320- in the average hardware store.
of a mirror-polished blade can grit or finer paper. If not, try automotive paint
cause a distortion of the lines Work under a good light and supply places, or go to one of the
and can reveal that the surfaces use a headband type magnifier knifemaker supply companies.
are not usually as flat and true to check your progress. Once Abrasive stones are also
as first believed. A well-done, the ripples are out, you can go used for hand finishing. I use
hand-rubbed finish is the ultimate back to the 320-grit paper and EDM stones purchased from
treatment for a blade. get back on schedule. It’s not so Manhattan Supply Corp. These
A hand-finished blade starts much what specific grits you use are available in a variety of grits.
out with a belt or disc but that the changes in grit sizes I use 240, 320, 400 and 600. At
finish to at least a between steps are not too times I use medium Crystalon
320-grit finish. great. For example, it and fine India bench stones to
The first step would be level the surface on large blades.
is working I make handles for the stones or
epoxy them to a handle of some
type. The photo shows two stone
holders made of Micarta.
Try this for a super hand-
rubbed finish: Take a clean scrap
of sheath leather, just enough
to hang on to, put a dab of
Simichrome or similar polish on
it, and give the blade a rub-down
with it. Add polish compound
as necessary but do not over
Hand sanding the knife handle, the author uses 80-grit, do it. This will bring up a shine
cloth-backed sandpaper for rough work. Paper-backed strips on the final lines left by the
with a second masking tape backing were used to take the final abrasive paper rub that is
handle surface down to the final finish. unbelievably nice looking.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 52 10/27/08 4:12:35 PM

round rocks and others choosing the coarser of the two was an
Using Natural rocks of the square or rectangular 80-grit stone, the finer a 150-grit
Stones type. stone.
Builders of Stone Age weapons When I wrote the BLADE The 80-grit stone was used for
were the first stock-removal Magazine series, “The $50 Dollar getting out the scratches left from
makers. Their only choices for Knife Shop,” I used pieces of draw filing. The 150-grit stone
abrasives were natural stones, broken wheels from old-time, was used for the finish prior to
sand or dirt. The “grinder” of foot-powered grindstones to heat-treat. The photo shows a
choice would have been any rock finish the forged blade. I had blade being smoothed up on a
that was harder than the object pieces from two different stones, piece of natural sandstone. These
being shaped and finished. I’ve one somewhat coarse, the other stones are used with water to
always thought that there were a medium-grit size. I measured keep them from plugging up.
probably different “schools” of the grit size with an optical Natural stones fine enough for
grinding, with some preferring microscope and estimated that up to a near-mirror finish will be
of the type known as Arkansas
stones, which are a grit size of
600-1,000. I don’t like Arkansas
stones for sharpening because
they cut too slowly; however,
they are a good choice for fine
finishing blades. Japanese water
stones are available in grits that
will take you to a near mirror
finish. Some are natural stones
but most of the modern water
stones are manmade.
A Quick
Hand-Rubbed
Finish
A nice finish for a working knife
can be done rather quickly with
all handwork. It’s quick because
the strokes are all lengthwise with
the blade. The quick-rubbing
process results in a nice, although
not perfect, finish because there
are usually some coarse lines
or ripples under the final finish.
The trick is to keep the scratch
pattern all going in the same
direction with the length of the
A piece of natural sandstone is being used for hand finishing. blade. I may take the surface to
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 53 10/27/08 4:12:36 PM

The double-ended buffer has a narrow base for safety. The white surface under the buffing wheels is only there for
the photo shoot. It was necessary so that the motor base and buffs would be clearly visible.
a 400-grit finish and then use sandpaper are more economical sharp shop knife. Fold that piece
polishing compound on leather to when purchased in a 50-sheet again lengthwise and cut. Fold
finish it off. sleeve. that piece but don’t cut it, and
Here is my procedure for the wet or dry paper will then be
Using Wet or preparing a sheet for use in blade

or handle finishing. Fold it in half
ready for hand sanding. If you
folded and cut right, you’ll have
Dry Paper lengthwise and you have it ready a folded piece as long as the 11-
Wet or dry paper is useful to clamp to a steel plate for hand inch sheet and it will be 1 1/8
because, when used wet, it does finishing a flat surface. The photo inches wide.
not clog up and quit working. in the section on blade finishing Build yourself a cutting jig as
Although some applications for shows this operation being illustrated earlier to make 1-inch-
it in knifemaking are best done employed to smooth the ricasso wide strips for hand sanding.
wet, for others it is used dry. on the project knife. By keeping When you want to form a radius
Wet or dry paper has silicon the paper folded while in use, the on edges of a knife handle, the
carbide grit, which is superior for abrasive side that is down helps strips are not doubled but used
metalworking. The waterproof to keep it from slipping out of as-cut to width. These are used
paper backing is stronger than position on the backing surface. with a backing layer of masking
the non-waterproof, paper- Fold another sheet of tape to keep the paper from
backed sandpaper that is made sandpaper lengthwise and then tearing from the pressure used.
for woodworking. All types of cut it in half along the fold with a To apply the tape to the
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 54 10/27/08 4:12:38 PM

good for getting in the corners
where the guard meets the blade.
It will save you a lot of work
to have the face of the guard
polished prior to attaching it.
This also eliminates the danger
of buffing it while on the knife.
Loose buffs are dangerous for
knife work because they have the
bad habit of grabbing blades and
other knife parts.
Here’s a close-up view of the
I was holding a folding knife
mustard finish.
blade with my bare fingers one
day when the buffer caught it and
The Mirror flipped it to the cement floor. The

blade bounced back up into the
Finish buffing wheel and was propelled
Some collector-grade knives back down to the cement, then
look good with a mirror finish. made a second trip up and stuck
At one time, a mirror finish was in my finger. I wasn’t badly hurt,
the ultimate. However, the hand- just enough to draw a drop of
rubbed finish is more popular blood or two.
The handle slabs are oriented so
they match on the finished handle. today for high-dollar collector I immediately placed two layers
knives. And, it does show a higher of old carpet on the floor under
sandpaper, lay the paper over degree of skill, in my opinion. the buffer. The padded area on
your vise, grit side down. Tear My version of a mirror polish the floor will slow down a flying
off a piece of masking tape that starts out by hand finishing the blade and, at the same time, give
is near the same length as the blade to a 600-800-grit surface, the blade some protection from
sandpaper. Apply the tape in the and then I use a buffer. The hand damage. Small blades should be
center and work it down and finishing gets out all the ripples held with ViseGrip® pliers for
around, following the gentle and leaves a true flat surface to buffing.
radius of the top of the vise. This set up the mirror finish.
will form the sandpaper into part Be careful with buffing wheels, Safety Note
of a slight circle and will help they are probably the most In my opinion it is not safe
to keep it from wrinkling when dangerous tools in the shop. I run to have a buffer sitting directly
pulled over the rounded surface 10-inch-diameter, stitched buffing on a table or bench. When a
being finished. When sanding wheels at 1,750 rpm. Anything buffing wheel catches a blade, it
rounded surfaces, it is good to faster than that is too dangerous is propelled at 75 miles an hour
work the paper by pulling it back for me. I keep the last two rows or more towards the bench top.
and forth over the surface. of stitches cut so that the face of The sharp missile can bounce
The photo on page 52 shows the buffing wheel is not so hard. back and then be propelled by
the back of the handle being There are times when a hard face the wheel in the direction of the
rounded. The action is similar is desirable, but most of the time operator.
to polishing shoes with a strip of a slightly softer buffing-wheel Mount the buffer on an
cloth. face is better. The soft face is extension of the workbench that
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 55 10/27/08 4:12:40 PM

The tang is marked for drilling, or milling the slot The brad-point drill is set up to barely cut into the surface of
for the tang. the slab.
is no longer than the base of the through the palm of his hand. instead of up into your face.
motor. The idea is that there is I don’t think he incurred any My buffing-wheel guards are
nothing between the buff and the permanent damage, but he made out of 3/4-inch plywood,
floor. Some type of pad should missed a lot of work and had then glued and screwed together.
be placed under the buffer so the expense of getting his hand My theory is that a knife blade
that a blade thrown down by the repaired. I have more true horror propelled around the wheel
buffing wheel isn’t damaged, or stories about buffer accidents might stick into the wood before
worse yet, deflected back up into but will not tell them here. I’ll it gets to me. A lip at the front of
the wheel or operator. just state my opinion that I think the guard can be adjustable so
Many years ago, I taught a the buffer is the most dangerous that it can be lowered when the
friend to make knives. He got in machine in the knife shop. wheel gets worn down. The top
a hurry and mounted his buffer Buffing wheels should have of the buff guard is handy for
directly on top of a bench. The guards over them. See the photo storing compounds and other
buffing wheel caught the guard that shows the way I do it. junk.
on a dagger and flipped it down Even if nothing is ever
against the bench top. The knife propelled around the wheel and The Satin Finish
bounced off the table and back into your face, it is nice to have The most practical finish for a
into the wheel where it was the fluff and excess compound working knife is a satin finish. It
propelled around and directly projected down to the floor shows a pattern at a 90-degree
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 56 10/27/08 4:12:40 PM

angle to the edge and is usually you will be able to get a nice, but protective coatings on working
not much finer than 300-400 grit not too shiny, satin finish. knife blades.
with light buffing. Satin finishing compound is The first is Cold Blue. This is
Here's how I do my version of held together by water-based the product made for touching
a satin finish. The blade can be glue. The SF compound is also up the blue finish on firearms.
flat, convex or hollow ground. I called “greaseless” because most Birchwood Casey makes one
work the blade down to a half- buffing compound is grease called Super Blue, which costs a
dull, 240-grit finish, or if you based. SF compound is applied to bit more than the standard Cold
prefer, use a sharp 320-grit belt. the wheel while it is running, but Blue but is well worth the money.
I’ve done the satin finish starting not at full speed. It is easier to get an even coat of
with a flexible disc finish but it is I turn the buffer on, then off, blue with the Super Blue and the
never as nice looking as when set and apply the compound as the blue is a deeper color. Used as
up with a belt. buffer slows down. This process directed, it will make a nice finish
Carefully buff the blade with is repeated until a light coating that gives the blade a fair amount
Number SF 300 (satin finishing, is applied to the whole surface of protection against tarnish.
300-grit) glue-based compound. of the wheel. If the compound is The other method I use is
This type of compound is applied in a thick layer, the buffer an oxide layer developed with
available from most knifemaking acts more like a fine-grit grinding mustard. It gives a finish that
supply companies. I use the wheel and it will not make a good makes the knife look like it’s been
compound on a 10-inch stitched satin finish. used for some time. It makes the
muslin buffing wheel that runs The wheel is left running until knife more user-friendly because
1,750 rpm. This buff will be the compound hardens. That there is not the constant worry
used for only the SF greaseless will take 15 minutes or more, about frequent cleaning and
compound. It takes some practice depending on the humidity and keeping fingerprints wiped free.
to get a uniform scratch pattern. temperature. A freshly loaded Blades with the mustard finish
At this stage the blade surface and dry buff should be broken can be handled and then put
will be fairly open. in by lightly buffing a scrap away in the sheath without much
The next step is to buff the piece of steel. The object is to fretting.
blade lightly with a medium dull the satin effect just slightly. The blade being readied for a
cutting compound. Easy does This whole operation will need mustard patina should have a
it with this step. Once or twice to be practiced to get good at fairly fine finish on it, 400-grit
down each side of the blade it. Like a lot of other things in will do. I’ll usually make swirls
is enough. Finish the blade by knifemaking, it can’t be broken and a variety of lines going
buffing lightly once or twice down down to a formula that works the different directions with 400-
each side with a finish compound first time, every time. grit wet or dry paper. This will
like RCH Green Chrome. help give the finished blade the
Over-buffing with the final Protective appearance of having been used.
finish compound will wipe out
the scratch pattern that sets up
Coatings for Making a new knife that looks
like it has been used might sound
the satin finish. The result will Blades a bit goofy. All I can say is that
be a nice looking, slightly shiny Blades made of high-carbon my customers seem to like the
satin-finished blade. The finish and carbon-alloy steel, and most goofy idea.
buffing is done on a different tool steels, will stain and rust I’ll never forget selling the
10-inch, sewn-muslin wheel that if not kept clean and dry. There first knife onto which I applied
runs at 1,750 rpm. With practice, are two treatments that I use as an aged finish. It was 1973, and
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 57 10/27/08 4:12:41 PM

I was selling my knives at an horseradish, perhaps combining carved to fit around the tang.
outdoor craft show called The it with mustard. The horseradish Some call it a mortised handle.
Saturday Market. The young will make a black patina with I’ve worked out a way to carve the
man who bought the used- which I’ve only just started to cavity in the two handle halves
looking camp knife made the experiment. A knifemaker friend, that makes it fairly simple.
following comment as he picked Richard Veatch, turned me on to There are several reasons why
it up for the first time: “I always the horseradish finish, saying it narrow-tang (N-T) construction
hate taking a new knife out and came from sword maker Michael is the easiest for the new maker.
getting it messed up; this one’s Bell. The N-T requires less steel, which
already messed up!” I’ve been is not an issue if you have 50
messing them up every since.
There's a bit of a trick to
Getting a pounds of old files lying around.
It can be an issue to consider in
applying the mustard finish. It Handle on It making knives of damascus steel
won't look right if the mustard BLADE Magazine editor Steve that you’ve welded up with your
is simply rubbed onto the blade. Shackleford once asked me own two hands. N-T construction
The correct way to do it is to to participate in a point-and- requires a fraction of the finishing
make lots of little drops with your counterpoint article covering that a full tang does because
fingertip. The drops can almost narrow-tang versus full-tang knife there is no steel exposed in the
touch one another or be spaced construction. I told him that handle. This makes the finishing
out a bit. Let the initial treatment the only way I could do it was much easier for those without
work for four-to-eight hours. to argue both sides. There are power tools.
Rinse the blade with water and advantages and disadvantages to The full tang, in comparison,
scrub it lightly with the finest each method, and I can make a requires that the tang and
steel wool you can find—that is wonderful argument for either of handle material be exceedingly
usually coded “00000.” them. flat, which calls for either a belt
Next, apply a second and third Nevertheless, after 42 years of sander or a flat-disc machine.
coat. Finish the final mustard putting knives together, I pick A disadvantage of most N-T
treatment as before and seal it narrow-tang construction for the construction is that it usually
with paste wax or penetrating oil, majority of my work. I like the requires a knife guard to hide
like Liquid Wrench® or WD-40. feel and balance with the narrow- the tang hole. The project knife’s
Use the wax as per the directions tang knives. They will always handle style, with the guard and
on the container. Let the Liquid be lighter than full-tang knives. grip as one, solid, integral piece,
Wrench or WD-40 work on the I don’t want to argue for my also hides the tang hole.
blade for a few minutes and then position; I’ll just say it’s my way
wipe it dry with a clean rag. If of doing it and I’m comfortable Handle Materials
you were going to use the knife with it. Micarta has been called the
for preparing food, it would be I like making the Scagel-style steel of the plastics world. I won’t
better to use a vegetable oil to bowie and camp knives that go that far even though it’s a
seal the blade. The photo shows require narrow tangs in order material that will outlast most
a close-up view of the mustard to accommodate hardwood knife blades. Micarta is an often-
patina. spacers and deer antler crowns. used material, very versatile and
It’s a good idea to practice on For hunting- and utility-sized available in a good assortment
a junk knife blade. Try some knives, I prefer the narrow-tang of colors. I use it a lot because
combinations with the Cold construction that calls for two of the durability factor. Its only
Blue, and think about testing halves of a knife handle to be real disadvantage is that it doesn’t
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 58 10/27/08 4:12:41 PM

The handle milling
jig is at the top, and
close-up details are
shown at the left.
Domestic wood
types I like to use are
maple, walnut, Osage
orange and desert
ironwood. Osage
orange and ironwood
are the hardest and
most durable. I’m
fairly lucky to have
a good source for
Osage orange. The
pioneers that came to
the Willamette Valley
in Oregon by covered
wagon brought starts
with them. There
have the organic feel of natural embargo on Sambar stag. Elk and are many Osage orange trees still
handle materials. A young man deer antlers are not easy to come growing along the old Territorial
was handling one of my Micarta- by and not all are suitable. road north and east of Eugene.
handled hunting knives and Whenever possible, purchase I often use fiddle-back maple
remarked, “I don’t like it; it’s not antler and stag when you can and walnut, sometimes called
organic.” pick it out yourself. That is the “curly”, or “tiger tail.” The maple
Antler, both domestic and the only way to be absolutely sure used for the project has a lot of
imported Sambar stag, are good you get usable material. If you special memories that go with
handle materials but are better order stag or antler through the it. It came from an old-school
suited for knives made after the mail, be sure that you have return craftsman named Gillman
maker has more experience. Stag privileges for any of it that isn’t Keasey. He made bows and
is one of my favorite materials acceptable. arrows, and with them, won the
to work with but availability is Domestic hardwoods are an National Archery championships
not good. There is currently an economical source of material. in 1935 and 1936. That means
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 59 10/27/08 4:12:42 PM

The handle is test fitted with all three trial pins in place.
that there will be fond memories when warm and dry.

every time I see a picture of the
project knife. Handle
Attachment
Keeping Wood Sequence
and Stag Dry The procedure is as follows for
Western Oregon has a the handle style where the guard
reputation for being wet and is part of the handle material.
it’s well deserved. Our average Making the mortised-tang
rainfall is nearly 60 inches. handle goes like this:
Wintertime here finds moss 1. Choose a piece of wood large
growing on everything that enough to make the handle that
doesn’t move. Keeping wood in is at least 1-inch thick. Make it
my shop dry enough to put on a real nice piece of wood. Take
knives was a problem until I built time to find something distinctive
a heated storage box. with unique colors and grain, or
The box has a 100-watt bulb use something with a memory
in the bottom that runs with a attached;
thermostat set at 75 degrees F. 2. Take care to orient the
This keeps wood and stag about handle pattern to the flow and This is where the blade extends
the correct moisture content so pattern in the wood grain and from the handle.
that it doesn’t shrink when put on clamp in place;
a knife and taken into the nice, 3. Use a sharp lead pencil to properly by laying it on the
dry climate of a warm house. mark the outline of the pattern. pattern for the whole knife.
Vents at top and bottom allow Do not use ink markers as they Drill one hole, place a trial pin
circulation of air through the box; will penetrate the handle material in it and drill the other hole.
the shelves are heavy pegboard as and make an ugly stain that won’t Pin diameter is 1/8 inch (.125)
to allow for some air movement. always come out when the handle and the drill bit should be a
There is a 1-inch air space at the is worked into the finished shape; #21 (.128). There will always be
back, from top to bottom. The 4. Cut the outline of the handle an interference problem in the
box works well and has not only slightly oversize; assembly if the holes are drilled
solved my problem with wood 5. To use the blade as a drill with a bit that is the same size
but gives me a place to store guide, clamp it to the handle as the pin stock. The roughly
welding rod, which works better material. Be sure it is oriented .003-inch clearance the #21 drill
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 60 10/27/08 4:13:45 PM

easy to do once the blade is fixed
in place;
11. Lay the tang on the inside
surface of one handle piece, put
the trial pins in place and mark
the outline of the tang with a
sharp pencil. Mark it close to the
tang; See the photo.
12. Measure the thickness of
the tang and pencil it in on the
inside of one handle piece. Find
or assemble a spacer that is half
the thickness of the tang;
13. With the handle material
in place, bring the drill bit down
so that it just touches the handle
material and lock the down-feed
nut. I use brad point drills that
are common in the woodworking
world. These drills do not tear
The epoxy warms on the mixing platform.
out or splinter the wood when
creates will make the job much gets hot from power sanding, breaking through the back side
easier; thus causing it to expand and and they make a somewhat flat
6. Mark the centerline on the bend into a slight curve with the bottom hole. Care must be taken
block and cut in half lengthwise. center being ground more than to feed the drill slowly so that
The grain matches closer by the ends. Two pieces of material good control is maintained. The
cutting a block to get the two that are allowed to got hot during flat bottom cut they create is
halves; sanding, when placed together excellent for rough cutting the
7. Put arrows (with pencil) on (by matching the arrows), will grooves for the tang;
the edge of the handle halves so show daylight in the center with 14. Place the spacer that is
that the orientation does not get the ends together. Alternate equal to half the thickness of the
mixed up. From this point on, the sanding between the two tang under the one handle piece.
there will be a front side and a pieces and cool the resting one This raises the handle material to
back side. The front side of a by placing it warm-side down the correct relationship with the
knife is the side showing when on a cool piece of steel. Handle end of the drill. If set up correctly,
the point is to the left and the materials will be truly flat if kept the drill will cut to a depth that
edge is down. cool while being flattened; is close to half that required to fit
8. Flatten the rough-sawn 9. Put the two handle halves the tang into the two pieces when
surfaces by sanding. The finished together and check for flatness put together;
handle will have a taper in it but by holding them up to a light. 15. Carefully drill out the wood
that will be put in after the slots Then assemble with trial pins between the lines marking the
for the tang are finished. When and round out and smooth up the shape of the tang. Keep the drill
sanding material, it is important surface that meets the ricasso; 1/4-inch away from the area at
to keep it cool. The surface of 10. Finish the radius on the the front of the handle so that it
a handle slab expands when it front edge at that point. It’s not cannot split the wood. This area
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 61 10/27/08 4:13:46 PM

will be carefully finished with under the jig and mill out the
a safe-edge rasp, file or sharp excess;
The Glue Up
chisel; 19. When both sides are I use Loctite adhesive products
16. Once both halves are finished, clamp the two halves almost exclusively. Loctite Super
roughed out, use a rasp, file or together and see if the tang fits; Glue is wetter, dries faster, sticks
chisel to clean up the groove 20. If you worked carefully, better and has more foolproof
for the tang. To make this type the fit should be fairly good. If tubes when compared to the
of handle look right, the blade the slot is too narrow, use a file competition. I use Loctite “Quick
should grow right out of the or sharp chisel to slowly and Set” Epoxy for handle glue up; it
handle material with no gaps; carefully open up the slot to get a is easy to mix, stronger than most
17. An alternate method that near perfect fit; (if mixed properly) and available
is quicker and more accurate is 21. If the slot is too wide, it almost everywhere.
to use a jig to hold both pieces can be narrowed up by carefully Before mixing the epoxy, it’s
of the handle at the same time, sanding the handle halves until best to make sure everything is
giving good control of the handle you have a nice fit. Take an equal aligned. Assemble the two handle
material; amount off of each side so that halves on the tang with the trial
18. The handle jig is used with the glue joint stays in the center pins in place. See the photo.
high-speed, carbide, drill/mill bits of the handle; Once the epoxy is half-cured, it
in a milling machine, or a drill 22. With the trial pins in place, becomes real messy when you get
press that is set to run as fast as it clamp the handle halves together. into a fight with pins that don’t
will go. With this setup, it is fairly Remove the trial pins and check align.
easy to completely clean out the to see if the tang fits and the trial Always have cotton-tipped
slot for a fine fit. Use a vernier pins line up. It’s time for the glue- swabs, toilet paper or paper
caliper or depth micrometer to up when all is fitted up all nice napkins and a small container
check the depth, and if it needs a and fine. See the photo of the of acetone close by for clean up.
few more thousandths-of-an-inch hole for the tang; You should wear disposable latex
removed, slip a piece of paper gloves during the glue-up process.
Too much exposure of bare skin
to uncured epoxy and acetone
can be dangerous.
Epoxy, for best strength, should
be warmed to between 70 and
80 F prior to mixing. If epoxy,
in general, or the quick set,
specifically, is mixed when cold, it
will not reach the full strength of
which it is capable.
The photo on page 61 shows
a mixing platform made from a
piece of steel mounted on a pivot.
The platform sits about 6 inches
under a light fixture with a 100-
watt light bulb in it. About 15
minutes before it’s time for glue
The drill bit is set up for brass. Note the two views of the same bit. up, a piece of clean paper is put
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 62 10/27/08 4:13:47 PM

on the heating platform, light mixed the epoxy on as a witness When the epoxy has cured, run
turned on, and the epoxy tubes that the epoxy hardened properly a sharp drill through the holes
are placed on the paper. This after allowing the allotted time. to clean out any excess hardened
furnishes the heat necessary for If you remember it, take time to epoxy. Cut the pin stock to length
heating the epoxy and a place for work the trial pins out while the (slightly longer than the thickness
the knife to sit while curing. epoxy is still tacky, it might save a of the handle), rough up the
With clamps and trial pins fight with them later. pins with coarse sandpaper and
ready and the epoxy warm, mix it Epoxy doesn’t cost that much glue them in place with Loctite
carefully as per the instructions. so don’t cut yourself short when glue. Use a back-up block when
The epoxy is mixed on the paper you mix. I find the Quick Set sanding down the excess pin
and the handle halves glued more than adequate for assembly stock, or use 320-grit paper on
up to the tang held with spring of most knives; the exception the flat disc machine. Always take
clamps. Work the trial pins out being big knives with narrow care to not undercut the handle
one at a time and clean them with tang handles where I want to be material around the pins or an
acetone. Dip a cotton swab in sure that all the air space between attached guard.
acetone and wipe off any excess the tang and handle material
epoxy that comes out of the holes
and from around the blade.
is filled. The slow-cure epoxy
found in cans is wet when mixed
Finishing the
Give the pins a quick acetone warm and gives the time element Handle
wash and insert them back into necessary to creep into the Handles should be roughed in
the handle. Keep the paper you deepest recess of a tang hole. with 80-grit sandpaper, finished
“A” shows a precision file guide with a blade in position for filing the shoulders square and in line. “B” shows
an attempt of mine from 20 years ago to make a file guide. It works but should be hardened. It has a sliding pin
holder at the left end, welded up solid on the right end. The long bars are 1/4-inch-by-1-inch with thick stuff
welded on at the wear points.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 63 10/27/08 4:13:47 PM

out with120-grit pager, then 240-
grit paper, and finally, 320-grit
paper. From there, the finish can
be done with 00000 steel wool or
the finest available.
Push sticks for handle finishing
are a necessity. It’s necessary
to have a firm and flat surface
backing the sandpaper to keep
from undercutting the softer
handle materials like wood. The
shape of the work dictates the
shape of the push stick. The stick
type is used for handle work and
is rectangular, round or with a
slight radius. In use, the abrasive
paper is wrapped around the
push stick, either end-to-end, or
around the circumference.
Maple should be brushed down
with water and allowed to dry
prior to the final fine sanding.
This raises the grain and will
The milling machine is set up for creating the clearance on the tang side of result in a better final finish. In
the guard. order to bring out the grain in
Here’s a bird’s-eye view of the vise setup for guard fitting. The jaw inserts are in place with a blade locked in them.
The guard is being pushed up against the shoulder by the guard pusher, which is being struck with a large ball-
peen hammer (bopper).
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 64 10/27/08 4:13:48 PM

fiddle-back wood, it is common steel wool you can find, then
to use some type of stain. I rubbed to a high shine with an
The Finished
used potassium permanganate old wool sock. The finish should Project
dissolved in water, which can be be in the wood and not on the The project knife is finished
swabbed on while the handle is surface. For a high shine, use a except for sharpening it. I did
still somewhat wet from raising wax such as Johnson’s paste wax the grinding and blade finishing
the grain. It gives a natural brown or similar. with my homemade grinder that
without the red tinge that most Potassium permanganate cost less to build than the cost
brown dyes have. can be found at Sears in the of three Norton Hogger abrasive
The handle is sanded with department where supplies for belts. The fit and finish wouldn’t
240-grit paper while still damp, water softeners are sold. And, I have been much better if I had
then 320-grit paper, stained, have no idea what it has to do used my more sophisticated
and then sanded again lightly with water softening. It comes in equipment. The point I am
using the penetrating finish on the form of purple crystals that making is that the new maker
the sandpaper. If you don’t have dissolve in water. This makes should get started with what they
potassium permanganate, you a stain that goes on purple but have with which to work. It’s
can stain maple with most any turns brown from oxidation. not the equipment that makes
wood stain or leather dye, and Potassium permanganate is an a skillful maker, it’s the practice
then treat it with Deft Danish Oil oxidizer, whatever that means. with what they have.
or Minwax Tung Oil Finish. Handle material can be burned The simple knife is finished,
Any sealer/finish that is wet and from the heat created from dull and for those who want to
penetrating will work. Maple will abrasive belts and buffing wheels continue, the following sections
absorb a lot of a wet, penetrating running too fast. The heat can have some of the more advanced
finish. I like to apply the finish cause discoloration, cracking knifemaking techniques
over a two- or three-day period. or raised grain in some woods. explained. My hope is that the
As it soaks in, I add more. If the Excessive buffing will undercut things presented will make the
surface gets tacky, you should use the softer parts of wood. It’s best journey to mastering the craft a
enough finish to dissolve it and to finish wood without buffing. bit easier.
get it wet again. Use fine steel
wool to help get the tacky finish
off of the surface.
When no more finish will soak
into the handle, it should be
lightly worked over with the finest
The Micarta guard pusher is shown with the bopping tool.
At last, here is the finished project knife.
BGKFM_26-65-.indd 65 10/27/08 4:13:50 PM

His Forge Burns Hot
for Mosaic Damascus
American Bladesmith Society master smith
Rick Dunkerley lights the mosaic-damascus fire
By Rick Dunkerley
M
y first exposure to damascus knives was through An article by Wayne Goddard
in “Knives ’86” on welded wire
the book “Knives ’84.” As a new knifemaker,
damascus inspired me to try my
I was most impressed by the knives of Kemal hand at pattern welding steel. I
(Murad Sayen), Sid Birt and Hill Pearce. Since I had almost learned quickly that my wood
stove did not get hot enough
no contact with other knifemakers at the time, forging
to weld cable. Twenty years
damascus seemed like an impossible dream. later, I understand quite a bit
more about making damascus,
although I’m still not able to
pattern weld steel in my wood
stove.
Today there seems to be a
damascus maker on every corner,
and the opportunity to learn
to forge damascus is available
to almost anyone. In 2005, the
American Bladesmith Society
slated seven damascus classes
at the Bill Moran School of
Bladesmithing. The Sierra Forge
and Fire School held several
classes, one taught by yours truly.
There are numerous “hammer-
ins” around the country and most
have forging damascus on the
agenda.
Be warned that forging
damascus is addictive. I once
heard Daryl Meier, who I consider
the greatest modern maker of
damascus steel, say, “Making
damascus steel is a disease for
Devin Thomas draws out a bar on a 150-pound air hammer. which there is no cure.”
BGKFM_66-85.indd 66 10/27/08 4:18:18 PM

For me, it has been a wonderful
journey—a journey that continues
every day with no end in sight.
After learning some of the basic
techniques, there are no limits to
where the journey can take you.
With the basics of forge welding
mastered, a blade smith can
create new patterns and figures
with each new steel billet. This
thought has kept me obsessed
with damascus for 10 years. The
The author flattens an accordion-style damascus bar on a hydraulic press.
inspiration for new damascus
patterns is everywhere; you just being made in the forge prior hardening steel and turns it
have to be open to unexpected to my demonstration. Some darker after etching, allowing for
influences. of the mokume had melted in more contrast with the lighter
Bernd Munsteiner, a world the forge and the copper was 15N20.
renowned lapidary, describes contaminating the atmosphere As for 15N20, it is basically
design as “a personal creative inside the forge. After changing 1075 with 2-to-3 percent nickel,
search of the form, the forges, I was able to weld my which results in extra toughness
comprehensive and visible billet and save face. and gives it the quality of
expression of an individual In my own shop, I try to keep resisting etching, resulting in a
which, through becoming things simple. By eliminating as silver layer almost as bright as
aware and recognizing an order, many variables as possible, I am pure nickel. This combination of
sets the undefined bounds, successful at making good forge materials welds easily and can be
recognizes chance and eliminates welds. I have developed a routine manipulated extensively. Blades
the arbitrary.” This applies that I go through with each forge made of 1084 and 15N20, if heat-
appropriately to the creation weld, and by not altering what I treated properly, cut extremely
of damascus. Once the maker know works, I’m confidant that well and are tougher than nails.
becomes aware and can recognize my welds are going to turn out
the order, creating new patterns
becomes a matter of imagination,
good.
First in the process of forging
Flexing Its
and the possibilities are endless. damascus is the selection of Steel Muscles
Forge welding damascus can be materials to forge. This is an area The blade I used to test for my
complicated and there are many that I feel strongly about and American Bladesmith Society
factors with potential to make a I recommend 1084 and 15N20 master smith stamp was made of
good weld an impossibility. I once as the steels to combine when these materials. It easily passed
conducted a damascus-making forging damascus. Devin Thomas the performance test, which
demonstration in Canada and suggested these materials to me included cutting 1-inch rope in
could not achieve a good initial almost 10 years ago and I feel one swing, chopping a 2x4 in half
weld on my billet. After several they have been instrumental in twice, and still shaving hair, and
unsuccessful attempts, I noticed my success. First, 1084 is simple then flexing 90 degrees without
a green color to the flame in the steel with .84 percent carbon breaking. My blade flexed back to
forge. After some questioning, and .9 percent manganese. The about 20 degrees with no cracks
I found out that mokume was manganese defines it as deep- or any damage to the steel.
MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 67
BGKFM_66-85.indd 67 10/27/08 4:18:19 PM

For specialized damascus
billets, 1084 and pure nickel can
be used, but edge holding is not
on par with 1084 and 15N20. For
some complicated mosaics, 1084
powder, 1018 powder, pure nickel
powder and 4600E powder work
well for me. The 4600E powder
is similar to 15N20 but has less
carbon.
As you’ve probably deduced,
I make an effort to keep my
damascus materials as simple as
possible. I try to avoid steels that
contain chromium, and since
eliminating the use of 52100 and
5160 blade steels, my success
has increased tremendously. By
eliminating as many variables
as possible, problems with forge Nineteen layers of 1084 and 15N20 are stacked with the thicker steel—
welding are easier to identify. 1084—on the top and bottom to keep the thin 15N20 from warping in
I have used various propane the heat.
forges to make all of my
damascus steel. My first was
built using plans I obtained from
Wayne Goddard, and the one
that I use now is similar to a Don
Fogg design. At hammer-ins, I
have used many variations of
these forge designs, and all have
worked well.
As with my philosophy on
knifemaking, I like my forge to
be simple—one burner with a
small blower to provide air. The
forge must be capable of reaching
2,300 degrees Fahrenheit, which
is no problem with a properly
regulated propane forge.
I use ceramic fiber insulation in
my welding forge, which is coated
with refractory cement to help
resist flux and also to protect the
A 19-layer billet is cut into five pieces and readied for a second weld, ceramic fiber from damage. Cast-
which will result in 95 layers. able refractories work well for
BGKFM_66-85.indd 68 10/27/08 4:18:20 PM

Ed Schempp “wet welds” (with flux) the first weld of a 19-layer billet.
insulation also. They take longer The ability to change dies Hammers are more fun to run
to heat up, but hold the heat well quickly can be handy at times. than a press once you get the
and shorten the re-heating time The press I currently use was hang of them. They also distort
of the billet during the forging made by Jeff Carlisle of Great the patterns or figures in steel
process. There are many good Falls, Mont. I have employed a billets less often if the operators
forge designs out there and my good number of presses over the have good control of them. Bars
advice is to find one you like and years and have not found one can be drawn down more quickly
buy or copy it. that I like better. Dr. Jim Batson with hammers than with presses,
For about 12 years I have sells plans for a press similar to and power hammers tend to
been using a hydraulic press to the one that Carlisle markets. If knock forge scale off rather than
make damascus. The hydraulic you decide to purchase or build forge it into the billets as presses
press has several advantages a press, I would recommend that will do.
over a power hammer. For the it be at least 20 tons and have a Whether you choose a press
beginner, the press is much easier good quick-change die set up. or a power hammer, remember
to control, and dies can be made Power hammers embody the these machines can be dangerous.
for the press that encapsulate the traditional blade smith tool and Combine all the mechanical
entire billet, making the forge have been used to make tons of power with steel that is 2,300
weld much easier. For those damascus. I have used hammers degrees and serious injuries can
with less than understanding ranging in weight from 25 pounds occur. Always think safety first
neighbors, the press is quieter to 500 pounds at hammer-ins when operating a press or power
than a power hammer. and friends’ shops over the years. hammer.
BGKFM_66-85.indd 69 10/27/08 4:18:21 PM

1
be hot-cut and folded onto itself Start with a 19-layer billet
Stacking the during the drawing out process to consisting of 10 layers of 1/4-
Steel Deck double the layer count. I have had inch-by-1-1/2 inch-by-6-inch 1080,
In preparing a billet for the first better success with the grinding and nine layers of 1/2-inch-by-1-
forge weld, I stack alternating and cutting process, but use 1/2-inch-by-6-inch 15N20, which
layers of 1084 and 15N20 to get whichever works for you. are stacked in alternating layers
the desired number of layers in The second weld will progress with the thickest material on the top
just like the first, and the number and bottom of the stack;
the billet. This may be as little as
three or as many as 25 layers for of layers will dictate whether a
2
the initial weld. The layer count third, or more, welding sequences Clamp and weld one end and
is tailored to get the desired effect are necessary. then weld a handle on that
in the finished blade. These forge welds can be end. Weld one corner at the end
I always keep the thicker of accomplished by using two opposite the handle;
the two materials on the top different methods, namely
and bottom of the billet, which welding with flux, referred to as
3
Place the billet into a forge that
helps to hold the heat and aids a wet weld, and welding without
is preheated to 2,300 degrees
in decreasing warp as the billet flux, which is a dry weld. The
and soak until the billet is dull red.
comes up to welding temperature. steps to be followed for a wet
At this time apply anhydrous borax
The 1084 comes with light mill weld are:
as flux;
scale, which I do not clean off,
and 15N20, as I buy it, has no
scale and is used as-is.
After the initial forge weld, the
billet is reheated and drawn out
into a rectangular bar. The size
of this bar is dependent on how
many layers are desired in the
finished billet and the finished
size. The bar is then ground clean
of forge scale on the surfaces
that will be welded during the
second sequence. The bar can
This is the initial weld on a 4-inch-square billet.
Scale and flux come off of a billet during the first weld.
BGKFM_66-85.indd 70 10/27/08 4:18:32 PM

4
Allow the billet to reach may have to be repeated again to or tubing must be ground off of
welding temperature, which is get the required number of layers. the steel. If it becomes necessary
indicated when the flux is bubbling to cut and restack the billet,
rapidly. Rotate the billet to make there are three options. It can be
By creating an inert, oxygen-
sure it is heating evenly; put into a box, the seams can be
free atmosphere, forge welding
can be accomplished without welded to do another dry weld, or
5
Weld the billet using a press or flux can be used to do a wet weld.
flux. This will usually result in a
hammer. If using a press, use The desired visual effect and
cleaner and stronger weld. This
dies that are longer and wider than the pattern will be factors in the
oxygen-free atmosphere can be
the billet to weld in one squeeze. number of layers in the finished
created several different ways:
If using a hammer, weld from the bar. I prefer a predominantly
handle end outward to allow the black-looking damascus, so
1
Make a sheet metal box that the
flux to escape; I like the 1084 layers to be
billet is placed into, and then
approximately twice as thick as
weld the box closed. Spray a small
6
Use a wire brush to remove the 15N20 layers. Because of its
amount of WD-40 inside the box, or
the flux and scale. Reheat the nickel content, the 15N20 layers
place a small piece of combustible
billet and forge into a rectangular do not compress as much as the
material inside, to burn off any
bar, reheating as many times as 1084.
oxygen inside the box;
necessary to reach the desired As the layer count increases,
length and width;
2
the initial difference between .25-
Weld all exposed seams of the
billet to seal oxygen out; and inch 1084 layers and .075 15N20
7
Allow the billet to cool and layers becomes much smaller.
grind any scale off of the billet. This initial size difference seems
3
Use square tubing of an
Cut the billet into as many pieces to balance out to the effect that
appropriate size to contain the
as required to reach the desired I like at 200-300 layers. Some
billet.
number of layers; and experimentation with different
Forge weld as described in the thicknesses will teach the
8
Repeat the welding process wet welding sequence, omitting beginner how best to achieve the
and draw the billet out to the the flux. After the billet is drawn desired effect.
desired dimensions. The process to the proper dimensions, the box The damascus pattern applied
to the blade will also be a factor
to be considered in the layer
count. In my view, random
patterns seem to look best with
at least 200 layers. Twist patterns
do no need as many layers, as
twisting the bar tightens them.
Fifty to a-hundred-and-fifty layers
work well to achieve a twist
pattern. For a ladder or raindrop
pattern, 200 to 300 layers are
ideal and, with a good etch, will
give a holographic effect to the
Several billets come up to welding heat in the forge. The large, square billet blade.
on the left will be “dry welded” (without flux).
BGKFM_66-85.indd 71 10/27/08 4:18:33 PM

insure the proper thickness of the
finished bar.
After the grooves are pressed
into the bar, it is ground flat,
removing all the high spots.
The bar is forged to the desired
blade shape and the ladder
pattern becomes visible. If the
ladder designs are ground or
milled into the bar, they should
be approximately one-third the
thickness of the bar. After the
grooves are ground, the blade
is forged to shape with all the
grooves forged out of the bar,
resulting in a distinct ladder
pattern. Whether pressed or
ground, the ladders should be
Drawing the welded billet out requires stop blocks in the press to keep the
staggered from side to side.
billet sized correctly.
Creating the raindrop or pool-
Twist patterns are similarly self- and-eye pattern is essentially the
Radials and explanatory. A bar of the desired same process as forge welding
Jellyrolls number of layers is forged into a ladder pattern, except that
The layer counts are only a a square and the corners are dimples are pressed or drilled
starting point and you may find forged down slightly. The bar is into the damascus bar instead
that you prefer more or less. In heated until it is close to welding of grooves. The resulting pattern
specialized damascus patterns, temperature, and then twisted. will look like bull’s-eyes or
such as radials or jellyrolls, far The twisting can be gradual or raindrops on a pond.
fewer layers are needed. It is also tight for varied effects. The center These are the most basic
possible to forge weld sections of each twist gives a star effect. damascus patterns and the
of high- and low-layer bars into Twisted blades should be left a same patterning techniques, and
one billet and get a high contrast little thicker than other patterns several others, are employed for
through patterning. as grinding deeper makes the star more advanced patterns. Before
Patterning of the flat laminated effect greater and the overall look moving on to more advanced
billet can be accomplished in is more pleasing. patterns and techniques, the
many ways. Random pattern Ladder patterns are damascus steel maker should
needs little explanation. The accomplished by pressing become adept at the forge
layers remain relatively flat and or grinding grooves across a welding process.
some distortion usually occurs damascus bar. If the pattern is More advanced patterns
during the forging. The distortion pressed into the blade, it should include the “W’s” design, and
causes the flat layers to bend and be approximately double the mosaic damascus. With the
results in a flowing, organic look thickness required in the finished “W’s” pattern, the initial billet
to the material, especially when bar. The grooves are pressed in is stacked just like a flat-layered
the edge bevels of the blade are with dies made of round rods, billet, and welded. Then, during
finish-ground. and stop blocks can be used to the drawing process, the billet
BGKFM_66-85.indd 72 10/27/08 4:18:34 PM

(Gallagher photo)
Rick Dunkerley’s composite-bar blade (with two types of damascus in one blade) features 25 layers of twisted
damascus to the outside of a separate, inner core.
is rotated 90 degrees and forged

into a rectangular bar with
vertical layers. This bar is then
ground free of scale, cut into
pieces and restacked.
When the second weld
sequence is complete, the layers
remain vertical. This bar is then
cut again and restacked for
the third weld sequence. If the
ends of these pieces are etched,
they will reveal vertical layers
that are distorted and starting
to form the “W’s.” The third
(PointSeven photo)
weld sequence will distort the
layers even more and make the
“W’s” much more dramatic. Any
layer count works well on this
Rick Dunkerley’s rocker-release folding dagger showcases a 280-layer,
pattern, and any of the patterning
ladder-pattern-damascus blade and 120-layer, random-pattern-damascus
techniques, including twists, bolsters.
ladders, raindrops and even
defined. At the BLADE Show in
accordions, help to further expose
the pattern. 1999, I questioned some of the
Steel Weaving
The next level of advanced best damascus makers on hand Class In Session
pattern welding is the making of as to their opinion on this topic The parquet or basket weave
mosaic damascus. The patterns and each one had a different is a relatively simple mosaic-
in mosaic damascus are visible definition for mosaic damascus. damascus pattern and makes
on the ends of the bars, yet Since there seems to be no clear for a good first mosaic project.
what truly comprises mosaic definition we will refer to all end- To begin, forge weld a low, 5-to-
damascus has never been clearly grain patterns as mosaics. 9-layered billet and draw it out
BGKFM_66-85.indd 73 10/27/08 4:18:37 PM

into a 1-inch square bar. Cut this
bar into four pieces and
stack them into a 2-inch-
by-2-inch square, with
the horizontal layers in
two opposing corners, and
the vertical layers in the other
corners.
Forge weld the stack and
draw the bar out, keeping
(PointSeven photo)
the bar square by forging
evenly on all sides. Several
The spurs are forged from
series of cutting
ladder-pattern W’s damascus made up
and re-welding as
of 1084 and pure nickel, then polished
described above will
and nitre-blued. They were made by
Rick Dunkerley. give a nice basket-weave pattern,
a design that works well for
background filler in complicated
mosaic projects.
-BEEFS1BUUFSO
The grid or spider web is
another simple mosaic pattern.
It is started with squares of solid
steel, such as 1050 or 1095. Cut
(SPPWFTBSFQSFTTFEPSHSPVOEJOUPUIFTUFFMCBS*GUIFHSPPWFT four squares of the steel and
BSFQSFTTFEJO UIFIJHITQPUTBSFHSPVOEPGG*GHSPVOEJO UIF stack them into a square billet.
CBSJTGPSHFEnBU#FGPSFQSFTTJOHJOUIFHSPPWFT UIFCBS
Add shims of contrasting steel,
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BGKFM_66-85.indd 74 10/27/08 4:18:38 PM

such as 15N20 or pure nickel,
and then forge weld and draw
the billet down into a 1-inch-
square bar. Cut the bar into four
pieces, stack, and re-weld until
the desired size grid is achieved.
The grid may be intentionally
distorted by forging on a bias to
create a spider web-like effect to
the pattern.
Another mosaic-damascus
pattern is the radial. The radial
design is started with a low-
(Gallagher photo)
layered billet of flat laminates.
The bar is cut with a die, which
compresses the center layers.
The halves are then cut into four Pictured is a Barry Gallagher button-release folder parading a ladder-
pieces, stacked into a square and patterned parquet blade and handle scales.
then forge welded back together.
This gives the effect of the layers 1BSRVFU
radiating out from the center of
the square.
The radial technique applied to
a “W’s” pattern bar accomplishes
a spectacular design. As with all
of the patterning techniques, you
can try them with any billet that
you like. You never know when
you will come up with a great 'PSHFEXFME $VUJOUP 3FQFBUVOUJM
new pattern. MPXMBZFSFE QJFDFTBOE QBUUFSOJTPG
The jellyroll pattern starts with CJMMFU TUBDLBTTIPXO EFTJSFETJ[F
a low three-to-seven-layered billet
of flat laminates. The billet is (SJE
drawn out into a rectangular bar
and one end is tapered.
The tapered end is cut square
and rolled back onto the bar by
hammering it over the edge of the
anvil. It requires several heats to
completely roll the bar, and then
the handle is cut off of the bar
4UBDLTRVBSFCBST $VUJOUP 3FQFBUVOUJM
and welded to the center of the BTTIPXOXJUI QJFDFTBOE SFBDIJOHUIF
roll. The billet is then reheated, DPOUSBTUJOHNBUFSJBM SFTUBDL EFTJSFETJ[F
fluxed and forge welded into a CFUXFFOCBST'PSHF 'PSHFXFME
square bar. XFMEBOEESBXPVU
BGKFM_66-85.indd 75 10/27/08 4:18:39 PM

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pieces, or a “nine-way.” while a billet of 64 elements is

Four-Way and These four- or nine-way billets accomplished with three four-
Nine-Way may be repeated several times

to accomplish the desired effect.
ways. These numbers are only
recommendations, as personal
Forging The size of the blade to be made preference will dictate how each
For the best effect in the will dictate the number of the blade smith uses the material.
finished blade, it is often original elements in the finished Single patterns or several
necessary to incorporate more bar. For large fixed-blade knives, different patterns can be
than one radial or one jellyroll in I like at least 16 of the original combined in four-way or nine-
the pattern. A bar can be cut into elements, and two four-ways will way combinations, resulting in
four pieces, stacked into a square accomplish that number. extremely interesting patterns
billet of two rows of two pieces, For small fixed blades or with high contrast. There is
and forge welded. This is referred folders, I use 36 or 64 of the no end to the possibilities for
to as a “four-way.” The bar can original elements in the bar. To creating patterns with these
also be cut into nine pieces and achieve 36 elements requires combinations.
stacked into three rows of three a nine-way and a four-way, After combining and forge
BGKFM_66-85.indd 76 10/27/08 4:18:40 PM

welding the desired number of
elements, there are several ways
to expose the pattern that is on
the end of the bar. Twisting the
bar and then forging to shape
will expose the pattern along
the edges of the blade. As with
any twisted bar, the edge should
be left fairly thick so that more
grinding is required because the
pattern is better near the center.
To expose the pattern, the
bar can also be forged into a
rectangular shape and ladder
patterned either by pressing the
ladders into the bar or grinding
them in. And although I have
(PointSeven photo)
never used it, the raindrop
patterning technique should also
bring the pattern to the surface of
a rectangular bar just as well as Sal Glesser of Spyderco Knives created his first mosaic damascus billet—
the ladder pattern method. not bad! It is cut and ready for four-way forging.
The accordion method is my
favorite way of exposing an end
grain or mosaic pattern. I like
i8BZw
the appearance of movement
and flow that is created by the
accordion technique. There are
several different methods that
can be used to open a bar like
an accordion, and I use one
suggested to me by Don Fogg. PSJHJOBMCJMMFU 0SJHJOBMDVUJOUPQJFDFT
The damascus bar is forged to BOESFXFMEFEJO
final dimensions and annealed. TRVBSJOHEJFT
The bar is then cut on a band
saw, removing triangles of gently weld them closed. I can is valuable to me and I do not
material from alternating sides usually flatten the whole bar in mind a little extra work to help
of the bar. After all of the cutting one heat. The bar is then forged maximize the material that I
is done, the sharp corners are to final dimension. obtain from the bar.
rounded off on a grinder. The bar The cut-out-triangles accordion
is then ready to flatten. While
flattening the accordion, the bar
method has worked so well
for me that I do not use other
Best Thing Since
should be worked at a welding accordion methods. This method Sliced Bread
heat. If the bar tears at the is more labor-intensive, but at Another popular method of
bottom of the cuts, apply flux and this stage, the damascus bar exposing end grain patterns is the
BGKFM_66-85.indd 77 10/27/08 4:18:40 PM

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Rick Eaton built

a bladed beauty
(Gallagher photo)
using twist-
damascus and
accordion-mosaic
damascus bars, the
Wade Colter’s damascus masterpiece is a beautiful example of a latter in an Indian
composite-bar blade with a twisted-mosaic-damascus core revealing sun pattern.
images of the Alamo. The edge bars are twisted W’s.
BGKFM_66-85.indd 78 10/27/08 4:18:41 PM

loaf method. The loaf method is
accomplished by forge welding
several blocks together side by
side and then slicing blades off of
the loaf. It is helpful to surround
the blocks with sacrificial
material like damascus or
plain carbon steel. The
seams can be welded
shut and the billet dry
welded. Having the
blocks fit together nicely
will simplify the weld.
The loaf method works well
for patterns or figures where no
distortion is desired.
Cutting tiles off the bar,
dovetailing them, then forge
welding them together is one
more way to expose patterning Rick Dunkerley’s folder
and produce blade material. sports a loaf-mosaic-
This is a difficult forge weld and damascus blade and a ladder-
pattern-damascus handle.
I do not recommend it for the
beginner. The tiles are usually
tack welded to a sacrificial plate,
(PointSeven photo)
which is ground off after the i-PBGw
forge weld. This method also does
not distort the original pattern.
The final method of exposing
end grain patterns to be
addressed is the plug weld. The
original bar can be turned or
forged into a round bar and plugs
are then cut off. A hole is drilled
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into a blade and the plug is fit degree bias, the pattern in the bar create the pattern I call “Persian
into the hole. A good, tight fit is will be distorted. The distortion Ribbon.” Four blocks are stacked
desirable, and the plug should be continues as the bar is forged on in a square with borders of
slightly thicker than the blade. the bias until it is square again. contrasting material between
The blade and plug This can then be used as is, or the blocks. These are then forge
combination are heated to a incorporated into a four-way or a welded and turned on a bias, with
welding heat and welded in nine-way. the borders now creating an “X”
one press or hammer sequence. A pattern that is not so across the bar. The bar is then
Several plugs can be welded spectacular can be brought to opened up using the accordion
into one blade if desired. This life by using distortion to your method and the Persian Ribbon
is another method that does not advantage. The squares in a four- pattern is created by the “X.”
produce distortion. way will be triangles after a 90-
There are times when distortion
can be used to enhance a pattern
degree bias forging, and can then
be oriented on the next four-way
A Composite
or even create a new pattern. to create diamonds in the pattern. Sketch
By forging a square bar on a 90- This is the technique used to Damascus forging can be taken
to the next level with the creation
of a composite-bar blade, which
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inventions. In my opinion, a well-
executed composite bar blade is
the epitome of damascus blade
forging.
Composite bar blades, such
as those forged by Rob Hudson,
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me in my early years of forging
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for my American Bladesmith
1MVTXFME Society master smith test in 1997,
and four of those knives had
composite-bar blades. I made the
decision to submit composite-bar
blades because I felt the forging
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damascus steel maker. It must
have helped because I passed the
5JMFT test.
PWFSMBQ A composite blade can be made
TBDSJmDBMNBUFSJBM up of as little as two bars of steel,
or as many as a damascus maker
would like. Most of my composite
%PWFUBJMUJMFTXJUITPNFPWFSMBQ BUUBDIXFMEUP blades consist of three to seven
TBDSJmDBMNBUFSJBMBOEGPSHFXFME bars.
BGKFM_66-85.indd 80 10/27/08 4:19:03 PM

(Gallagher photo)
The first step in the creation The three-bar-composite blade
of the composite blade is forging features a center core
the center, or core, bar. I prefer of mosaic tiles welded
using low-layered, opposing together. Dunkerley
twist bars for the core bar. For authored the knife.
large blades, I prefer the bars to
be approximately 3/8-inch thick
(PointSeven photo)
after twisting. The bars are then
aligned and forge welded to make
the core.
The next bars, or edge bars, Rick Dunkerley
depending on how many built a mosaic-
bars one desires to add damascus folder in a
to the composite,
Persian ribbon pattern.
are then forged and
drawn down to the same size as steel, an EDM (Electrical
the core bars. They are then edge bevels are Discharge Machining) machine
welded on and the sequence then ground. This could be used to cut a figure
is repeated until the eliminates distortion of the from two blocks of contrasting
composite desired is achieved. bars that so much work went steel, and the male parts were
The result is a single into while trying to make them interchanged. Forge welding
rectangular bar with a square uniform. resulted in two bars with the
end. A more pleasing and skilled The possible combinations for same figure, one dark and one
look to the finished blade can be composite bar blades are endless. light. This method was very
accomplished by wrapping the Imagination is the only limiting expensive, and although intricate
edge bars around the outside factor and that is why composite details could be cut, distortion
of the blade, or creating the bar blades are some of my was still a problem with uneven
appearance that the edge bars are favorite damascus specimens. forging.
wrapped around the blade. When using powdered steel,
There are several ways to do
this, but as J.D. Smith suggested,
Nicely Figured one block can be cut on the
EDM machine and the figure is
cutting a V-shaped notch out of Damascus then removed and the hole filled
the end of the bar and then forge Beyond damascus patterning with contrasting powdered steel.
welding the “V” closed is my most is the topic of creating figures The male part can be placed
preferred method. I have used within the damascus steel. in a square tube with one end
other techniques, such as forging Placing pictures in damascus has capped, filled with a contrasting
the core to the desired blade now become commonplace, as powdered steel and forge welded.
shape and then wrapping the I have seen bird-hunting scenes This yields two bars with the
outside bar completely around and the outlines of mammoths, same figure for half the cost of
it. I have also welded two outside shamrocks, dragons and the EDM work.
bars to the forged-to-shape core. countless other objects in blades. A second method for making
Once the composite bar is The use of powdered steels has figures or pictures in steel is to
completed, I do not forge in the made creating these figures and cut plate material and stack the
edge bevels. The blade is ground pictures much simpler. plates. The plates can be cut by
to the desired thickness and the Prior to the use of powdered laser or water jet less expensively
BGKFM_66-85.indd 81 10/27/08 4:19:04 PM

than with an EDM. The plates
are stacked in a square tube, and
the cut-out figure is filled with
contrasting powdered steel, and
forge welded. I suggest that the
first weld be on the ends of the
stack to weld the plates to each
other and prevent the powder
from sifting between them.
The billet is then forged out
into a square bar with the figure
The center bars of a composite-bar blade are welded, and the next two on the end. This method provides
bars are ready to weld to the core.
great detail for a fraction of the
cost of the EDM, and materials
are more readily available.
Figures can also be made
by forming pure nickel sheet
around cut-out molds. I have
cut out wooden figures of birds,
fish, shamrocks and many other
figures to form the nickel around.
This is obviously inexpensive
and requires no outside work
like using the EDM or laser
cutting does. The nickel form
is placed in a square tube and
Two bars with opposing twists are ready to forge-weld together. These will
powdered steel is used to fill the
be the center of a six-bar-composite blade.
tube. Special shapes may also be
forged and placed in these billets,
using whatever it takes to get the
desired effect.
When using powdered steels,
you must compact the powder as
much as possible before sealing
the tube. Vibrating the tube
works well to help the powder
settle and become as dense as
possible. These billets feel soft
during the initial forge welding,
but after the billet has been
reduced by about one-third, it
will begin to feel solid.
Certain powders move at
Blade smiths Wade Colter, Shane Taylor, Barry Gallagher and Rick different rates while being forged,
Dunkerley collaborated on a six-bar-composite blade. so experience is critical in forging
BGKFM_66-85.indd 82 10/27/08 4:19:05 PM

The author made this, his first powdered-metal-damascus knife, in 1999.
(PointSeven photo)
The pinwheel was shaped from pure nickel and surrounded by
1084 powder steel. The initial billet was four-way forged
twice and then ladder patterned.
billets with little distortion. from Devin Thomas and Ed

Start with Powdered steel Schempp, making several knives
something simple has not been used in with powdered steel damascus for
and pay attention to damascus steel for long. Steve the BLADE Show that summer.
how things move inside the billet Schwarzer pioneered its use in Since then, its use has become
and it will not be long until the the early 1990s, and in 1999, I widespread and the impact on the
results will be predictable. acquired some powdered steel Damascus steel world has been
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BGKFM_66-85.indd 83 10/27/08 4:19:07 PM

tremendous. In my opinion, we After drilling any holes needed perpendicular to the 320-grit belt
have only scratched the surface and grinding to a 120-grit finish, marks until they are gone. Then
and the possibilities for its use the blade is ready to harden. 600-grit wet and dry paper is used
are limitless. If the forging was uneven and to remove the 400-grit scratches.
required grinding one side of
Building Blocks the blade more than the other, I Scratch Removal
to Damascus recommend several more thermal
cycles before hardening.
Use each grit perpendicular
to the last grit’s scratches to
Making The hardening process for bars completely remove the marks.
These are by no means the only forged of a combination of 1084 Any belt marks that are left in
methods for creating damascus and 15N20 goes as follows: heat the blade will be highlighted,
patterns. It is my hope that the blade to 1,500 degrees in not camouflaged by the etching.
you will take this information high temperature salt; hold for The better the finish on the blade
and come up with your own two to three minutes; quench in before etching, the better the
ideas. These methods are meant preheated (120-degree) oil; and blade will look after the etching is
to be building blocks, and by the allow the blade to cool until it complete.
combining them or modifying can be handled comfortably bare When working with 1084 and
them, you may come up with handed. 15N20 blades, a 600-grit finish is
something truly unique. This should result in a fine enough to give a nice finish
Once a blade or bar of Rockwell hardness of 62-64 Rc. after etching. On blades that
Damascus has been forged, Two tempering cycles of one hour contain nickel, I finish to 2,000
it must be prepared for heat- each at 400-425 degrees should grit and mirror polish. The blade
treating. The first step is three produce a blade with a Rockwell can then be hot-blued, which
thermal cycles to relieve stresses hardness of approximately 58 gives a dramatic contrast between
imparted while forging the Rc. If high temperature salts the nickel and 1084 because the
damascus. The thermal cycles are unavailable, the blade can nickel does not accept the bluing.
consist of heating the bar to non- be heated to nonmagnetic and These blades can also be etched
magnetic and allowing it to cool quenched with similar results. like the 1084 and 15N20 blades.
for several minutes. This same heat-treating recipe My best etching results have
This is repeated two more will work for other combinations been obtained utilizing ferric
times, and after the third heating, of simple steels. The tempering chloride mixed as four parts
the bar can be allowed to cool cycles should be at a lower water to one part ferric chloride.
to room temperature, which is a temperature (350 degrees) and The etching solution should
normalizing step. This process raised 25 degrees incrementally be room temperature for best
greatly reduces the possibility until the desired hardness is results. The blade is submersed
of the blade warping during the obtained. in the solution for 10-15 minutes
hardening process. The hardened and tempered and then checked.
The blade or bar of damascus blade must then be finish-ground For me, two 10-15-minute
is then ready to anneal. It is and hand sanded so that it can cycles usually provide the etch I
again heated to non-magnetic be etched to reveal the damascus want. I then sand the blade with
and placed in vermiculite to pattern. 2,000-grit paper backed by a
slow the cooling process. After I grind my blades to a 320- hard sanding block to clean the
approximately six hours, the grit finish and begin hand oxidation from the higher layers.
steel is annealed and can then be sanding with 400-grit wet and The blade should be neutralized
drilled and ground easily. dry paper. The sanding is done in household ammonia—a 15-
BGKFM_66-85.indd 84 10/27/08 4:19:08 PM

(PointSeven photo)
The Harvey Dean folder showcases a feather-patterned blade and mosaic-damascus bolsters.
minute soak works fine. A light has been gathered through Colter. Each one has contributed
coat of oil will help prevent rust personal experience and sharing tremendously to my success as a
while the knife is being finished. with some of the world’s greatest blade smith, and without them I
The end result is a damascus blade smiths. I can never fully am sure I would not be writing
blade ready to be made into a express my appreciation to Fogg, this article.
knife. If the damascus bug has Schwarzer, Thomas, Schempp, Out of respect to the above-
not bitten you at this stage, you Daryl Meier, Hank Knickmeyer, mentioned blade smiths, I ask
must be immune. If you are Al Dippold, Rob Hudson, and you to take this information and
infected, I welcome you to a the three other original members build upon it. Share what you
wonderful world. of the “Montana Mafia,” Shane learn and give credit to those who
The information shared here Taylor, Barry Gallagher and Wade help you along the way.
BGKFM_66-85.indd 85 10/27/08 4:19:09 PM

Dedicated to the Study
of Sword Making
Let the author walk you through the building of one
of the big blades, the lengthly lopper—the sword!
By Don Fogg
T
he time is right for a new age of swords. It is not the Blade smithing has been
revived in the past 25 years.
need for weapons that stimulates this resurgence, but
Stimulated by the development
rather a convergence of interests, that of the modern of the custom knife market,
swordsman and the modern blade smith. Each group is the craft has grown from the
inclusion of a handful of makers
dedicated to the study of its craft, each with teachers and
to a well-established core of
individuals intent on mastery. several hundred smiths. The
custom knife market was based
initially on handmade utility
knives for the sportsman, but it
rapidly evolved into an area of
collectibles, and the scope of the
knives broadened.
Concurrent with the
development of the blade
smithing craft, the martial arts
community began to experience
an explosion of interest. In
both areas, it would take years
of practice and study before
students developed the skills and
discipline required of mastery.
It seems that every year there is
a new blockbuster movie that
features swords. Video games
and animated characters all
have come to feature the sword.
Couple this with the popularity
of the martial arts and we seem
The author, Don Fogg, shown here taking a sword billet to the power to be entering a revival of this
hammer, says there are no schools for sword smithing and very few medieval sidearm.
classes. To learn the craft, you will have to be self-motivated and dogged The sword comes in many
in your pursuit (and reading “BLADE’s Guide To Making Knives” will forms and shapes. Each culture
help tremendously!). developed its own particular style
BGKFM_86-103.indd 86 10/27/08 4:23:16 PM

and method of construction. The
study of the sword provides a
unique view of history. There are
several good online resources
for general information and
background, including http://
www.vikingsword.com/, http://
therionarms.com/index.shtml and
http://www.swordforum.com/.
Sword Tooling
There are specific tooling
requirements to make swords.
Interestingly, you do not need a
deep, or long, fire to do the hot
work on a lengthy sword blade.
Heating more than a 5- or 6-inch Will your sword turn out as beautifully as the Celtic Chieftan by
section will only cause problems Jake Powning?
dfoggknives.com and check out

the “Bladesmithing” section. I
would also have you refer to my
extensive links section for other
sites on the craft.
I use two forges when I am
working. The first is built on a
15-inch-diameter pipe standing
vertically 18 inches high. The
burner comes in at the bottom of
the forge at a tangent, allowing
the flame to burn in a circular
flow following the interior of the
forge.
There are two doors cut
This short sword with a carved-ebony handle was fashioned by the author, opposite each other at the top
Don Fogg, and is an example of what can be accomplished by following of the forge. This allows longer
his step-by-step sword making instructions.
sections to be passed through the
in forging. If you heat a longer popular with blacksmiths because forge. The burner is constructed
section, the blade will bend as of the versatility of the fire. Many of standard pipe fittings using 1
you are working on it. blade smiths have switched to 1/2-inch pipe attached to a 100
Traditionally, charcoal would propane forges. A poropane forge cfm shaded pole blower. The air
have been used to forge swords. is relatively inexpensive and is conrolled with a flap on the
There are many plans and designs simple to construct. For details intake of the blower, and the gas
for building a charcoal forge. on building a forge like the one is controlled by a needle valve.
Coal forges are particularly I use, visit my web site www. I use the large forge for welding
SWORD MAKING ╭ 87
BGKFM_86-103.indd 87 10/27/08 4:23:17 PM

Pictured is a sword-size forge, but The initial forging step is to prepare the overall shape of the sword blade.
on the smaller side. The profile and thickness of the steel are hammered to form.
damascus billets and for breaking

down stock.
For the actual blade forging,
I use a much smaller version of
the same forge. It is built on an
8-inch pipe with a considerably
smaller blower. This forge gives a
5-inch heat on the bar and allows
me to pass the point out of the
forge so that it doesn’t overheat.
Forging of the
Long Blade
The initial forging step is to Here is the author’s large forge.
prepare the overall shape. The
profile and thickness of the steel to break down the round bar, When I have finished, I have a
are hammered to form. The and keeping just a few sizes on rough bar with the preshape
Japanese call this initial shape the hand gives me the entire range of of my desired sword in the
sunobe. It prepares the billet for possibilities. proportional thickness.
the final edge beveling and shapes The initial stage involves Once the sunobe is formed,
the tang. Careful forging at this breaking the steel down to bar then the edge bevels can be
point will make the final forging stock. During this process, I established. I have found
go smoothly. am setting my dimensions and that beginning the forging by
I work from round stock thickness. The next step is to establishing a mini bevel with
primarily because I have the tools forge the tang and point shapes. light hammer blows allows you
BGKFM_86-103.indd 88 10/27/08 4:23:18 PM

to find the center of the bar and
serves as a registration point
when you lay the bar on the
anvil. You can feel the flat of the
mini-bevel.
Forge the bevels a section at
a time. It is helpful to forge the
bevel up from the edge instead of
forging down to the edge. If you
forge toward the edge, it tends
to get too thin before the entire
flat has been established. Forging
the bevel up toward the ridgeline
moves more metal quickly and
helps to maintain control.
I find that if you are careful to Hammer marks show how the author is breaking down blade stock.
check that the bevel is equal on
both sides, then keeping the edge
in the center pretty much takes
and wrist joints. Each of these
joints must be coordinated in
Hammerin’
care of itself. I do not forge the order to strike a consistent blow. Hot Steel
section down completely before Add the rotation of the wrist and There are some peculiar forging
moving to the next section. you can see that it becomes a problems that occur when you
When you do move an unforged daunting task. get beyond a 10-inch blade.
section, it is important to work I teach new students to lock First, when you forge a bevel in
from it to the forged section. If their arm to the side of their a bar, you stretch the metal and
you don’t, then you will induce a body and minimize or eliminate lengthen it, which causes it to
bend in the blade as it transitions the shoulder as a variable. With curve upward. In a small blade,
from thin to thick. your elbow to your side, you are this is a problem, but when you
As you forge the bevels, it is basically restricted to an up and compound it by additional length,
important to register the flat on down motion. The wrist can be it requires constant correction to
the anvil and to strike the work controlled by using a hammer keep the blade straight. One way
piece at the same angle as the that is heavy enough so that you to approach the problem is to
bevel. Adjust your hammer hand must lock your wrist to use it. correct as you go.
to that position and lock it in. It Too light a hammer and the As you forge the bevel and
is helpful to strike in the same wrist will be able to rotate, then the edge climbs, reserve enough
spot on the anvil and at the right the hammer face will be out of heat to make the correction. I
angle. Move the work piece as control. If you go too heavy, then usually do this by placing the
opposed to moving the hammer. your wrist can not support it and spine on the anvil and lightly
The tong hand is the brains; the no work will get done. So, having tapping on the edge until the
hammer hand is the force. a range of hammers to choose spine is completely flat on the
To gain control over the from is helpful. If you try this anvil. Tapping on the edge will
forging, you need to be able to method, it will teach you control upset and deform the edge, and
eliminate as many variables as and will give you a frame of so it follows that it is necessary to
possible. The hammer arm is reference to fall back on as your correct the deformed portion of
comprised of the shoulder, elbow skills improve. the edge, as well.
SWORD MAKING ╭ 89
BGKFM_86-103.indd 89 10/27/08 4:23:20 PM

straight. I saw a demonstration
by Japanese swordsmith
Enomoto, and he corrected
this action by first reversing the
direction of his forging, and
then by changing ends of the
sword and reforging. In effect, he
removed the twist by unwinding
it through the reverse process.
Keeping the flats straight is the
objective in either case.
Once the bevels have been
established over the entire length
of the sword, the blade is sighted
for major correction. There will
be areas that bow out or in down
its length and those are flattened
now. The straightness of the blade
is corrected at this point until the
blade is eyeball close.
Now it is time to enter the
The hammer arm is comprised of the shoulder, elbow and wrist joints. Each final forging. At this point, the
of these joints must be coordinated in order to strike a consistent blow. bevels are forged back to the
ridgeline, but the edge is still
Working 5 inches of blade precurve the blade down and then too thick. Heats at this stage
length at a time, the work it will straighten out as the bevel should be at or slightly above
progresses down the blade and is forged. This is easier to do in critical temperature. Using a light
includes forging the bevel up, small blades than in sword-length hammer will give more control
making sure it is equidistant pieces, but it can be done. There and you are not as likely to make
on both sides, forging the curve is no advantage of one method an uncorrectable error because
back out and then correcting the over the other and each has its you can not move the metal as
distortion to the edge. own peculiar set of problems. quickly with the light hammer.
Another problem that comes It is important that you
Curvature from forging blades over 10

inches is that they tend to develop
carefully watch the surface of the
steel as you are forging in this
Correction a helical twist. The bevels will stage. There should be no sharp
As the edge becomes thinner, be properly equal, the edge will hammer marks. Scale should
you have to move to a lighter be in the center, but as you sight be wire brushed off or it will be
hammer and use lighter blows down the edge it will appear to pounded into the surface and
to correct for the curvature. corkscrew. This can be hard to create pocks and craters that can
The curve will diminish as get out if it goes too far before be deep and difficult to remove.
you approach the final edge correction. One way to keep the surface
dimension because there is less The correction is to lay the flat free of scale is to wet the anvil
material being moved. of the blade on the anvil, and and hammer during this part of
Another approach is to with light taps, bring it back to the forging. The water converts to
BGKFM_86-103.indd 90 10/27/08 4:23:34 PM

steam and quickly blows off the
scale. What remains is light and
flaky and will not be a problem.
Watching your heats is critical
during this stage. The intent is
to refine the grain of the steel, so
you don’t want to get the metal
too hot. Also, you don’t want it
to get too cold or it might set up
stress fractures. Your working Seeing your hammer blows and the effect they are having on the work
time per heat is reduced so you allows you to address problems quickly. The goal should be to have a
have to work with light, rapid smooth worked surface, no dings, no marks, and controlled planes.
blows going repeatedly in and
out of the fire. How far you
take the edge is a function of
your experience, but I would
encourage you to forge as close to
shape as you can. This minimizes
the stock removal and cold work
required.
When the blade is finish forged,
it is checked for straight and
true, corrections are made and
then it is normailzed by heating
above critical and allowing it to You will need to dress your anvil face. Any ding or mark in the anvil face
cool in still air. After the blade will be transferred to the work, as well.
has cooled, it is examined again.
If there are major corrections I continually check the profile your body and making yourself
needed, it must go back into the of the blade silhouette by holding as stable as you can. The blade is
fire and steps taken. If it looks it up to the florescent lights above presented to the wheel or platen
good, then you can begin to the grinding table. When the and drawn across it by shifting
profile the blade. profile is pleasing, it is time to the weight on your hips.
begin setting the edge. I do this There is a limit to how far you
Final Shaping part of the process freehand and grind without changing position
The quickest way to profile grind a mini-bevel on both sides, on the blade. I grind my swords
the blade is with a belt sander, leaving the finished edge in the in sections in this manner,
but you can also do it with files center of the blade. These mini- blending the areas by overlapping
and scrapers. I do most of my bevels give me a reference when I them. I will generally use the
profiling working on an 8-inch am grinding the bevels and keep 8-inch contact wheel to remove
contact wheel. If you have done a me from grinding past center. the scale and take off any excess,
careful job of forging, this process Grinding a long blade on a being careful not to remove too
should go quickly. Because of the belt sander requires that you go much during this stage.
scale on the blade, I use a worn beyond your locked position. A I switch to the platen for the
belt. I do not mean worn out, but locked position is established next stage. When grinding on the
one that still has some life in it. by tucking your elbows tight to platen, you need to pay attention
SWORD MAKING ╭ 91
BGKFM_86-103.indd 91 10/27/08 4:23:36 PM

steel. Once it does start to bite,
however, it will pull curls off the
steel.
There is a lot of heat generated
during this process, and if you
work too quickly, it can create
carbide pimples on the surface of
the steel that will dull a file. You
can generate the same problem
if you are too aggressive with a
file. Once these carbides form,
you have to dig them out with
the edge of a worn file before any
more cutting can be done.
As you forge the bevel and the edge climbs, reserve enough heat to make It is best to work at a steady
the correction. The author usually does this by placing the spine on the pace, watch your breath and toil
anvil and lightly tapping on the edge until the spine is completely flat on the at a rate that does not leave you
anvil. panting. All rough shaping on the
flats and bevels can be established
with the scraper and then cleaned
up with files.
Draw Filing
The best filing technique is
called draw filing. Using an 8- or
10-inch bastard mill file, hold
the file with your hands on both
ends. Work the file at right angles
and lengthwise on the blade. You
need to find the right amount of
pressure when using a file. Too
much pressure and the teeth will
Working 5 inches of blade length at a time, the work progresses down the load, causing gauling or deep
blade and includes forging the bevel up. scratches. Too little pressure and
no work gets done.
to how the blade contacts the a 40-grit belt. With the right amount of
belt. Generally you are working The flats are difficult to hold pressure, the file will remove light
on one edge of the platen or the freehand and I generally set them shavings and allow you to quickly
other. In one direction, the grind with a sen, or scraper, and finish clean up the rough scraper finish.
will plunge, and in the other, the them with files. At this point on Files wear out. I like to start a
grind will climb. I do not try to the grinder, I am only getting out new project with a fresh file. If
be too aggressive with the grind the scale and major low spots. you can see bright areas on your
until the bevel flats have been When you first start to use the file, the teeth are gone and it isn’t
established and I can feel them. I scraper, it takes a few strokes going to work as quickly as a
do my primary rough grinding on before it starts to get a bite on the fresh file would.
BGKFM_86-103.indd 92 10/27/08 4:23:37 PM

As the edge becomes thinner, you
have to move to a lighter hammer Once the bevels have been established over the entire length of the sword,
and use lighter blows to correct for the blade is sighted for major correction.
the curvature.
All hand tools have their

own touch to make them work
efficiently and effectively. It is a
common problem to bull through
the work, but if you do, you will
create problems and frustrate
yourself. Learn to use them
effectively and they are pleasant
tool with which to work.
Once the blade is draw filed Scale should be wire brushed off or it will be pounded into the surface and
to finished dimensions, it is create pocks and craters that can be deep and difficult to remove.
ready for heat treating. All the
file marks should be running the blades in a small fire by passing My preferred method is using
length of the blade. There should the blade back and forth through a propane forge built from a 55-
be no sharp angles or corners that the fire until it all comes up to gallon oil drum. The drum that
will be hardened. I like to round temperature, but you will be I use has a removable lid so it
the edge by knocking off the chasing the ends. is easy to line the insides with
corners and getting the file marks When the tang end of the blade ceramic fiber insulation and
to run lengthwise on the blade. is up to heat, the tip is cooling reinstall the lid. You can insert
This will prevent stress risers and and vice versa. If you are working stainless or resistance wire clips
potential cracks. with charcoal, it is possible to by drilling holes and pushing
Up to now. you could have build a long fire by fashioning an them through the wool to keep it
worked on sword-length pieces air pipe with holes drilled along from sagging.
with your normal knife making it to provide an air source the To fire the forge, use either
equipment, but for heat treating, length that you need, building a small venturi or small power
the length of the blade requires up the sides of the forge with burner with the flame coming
new tools. You can harden long firebrick. in at the bottom from one end.
SWORD MAKING ╭ 93
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One way to keep the surface free
of scale is to wet the anvil and
hammer during this part of the
forging. The water converts to
steam and quickly blows off the
The author profiles the blade tang. The tip of the sword is profiled. scale
Cut small doors at the top of much extra length is required that, when hardened in oil, the
the drum to insert your blade. to get the entire blade into the point will drop and the blade will
You could also hang rods down quench. curve downward.
from the top as hangers to hold If you quench vertically, then If the same blade were
the blade and minimize sagging you will need a cylinder with quenched in water, the point
while it is heating. not only enough depth, but also would climb and the blade would
The way this forge works is that volume so that the quenchant curve up. The cause of this is
instead of trying to equalized heat doesn’t overheat. You will, of much debated and the process
over a long length and narrow course, need extra quenchant to is quite complex. It is enough to
diameter, the heat equalizes itself fill these containers. know that it will occur and to
over the larger area, giving a anticipate it. This particular blade
nice even heat. The key is to use Clay Coating still curved past straight and I
a small burner. The one I have The blade that I have been had to regrind some of the re-
on my setup can only bring the making will be selectively curve out of it to make it straight.
forge to a maximum of 1,650 hardened by applying a refractory The blade was forged from
degrees Fahrenheit and is capable clay coating to the back, or spine, 1095 high-carbon steel, and for
of running as low as 1,300 F of the edged steel. When the the heat treatment, I brought the
with controllable increments in blade is quenched, the clay will entire blade up to 1,425 F, and
between. slow down the cooling enough soaked it until all the carbides
Once we have our heating to prevent the spine from fully had gone into solution. If the
source, we have to consider the hardening and leave only the edge fire is steady and you watch the
quench tank. If you are going to fully hard. blade carefully, you can see the
quench horizontally, you’ll need I hardened this blade in oil and metal make its transformation to
a tank long enough for the blade, had pre-curved the blade during austenite.
including the tang and tongs. A forging so that it will come The blade will gain color as
dry run with the tongs in place out relatively straight. It is an it heats. As it approaches the
will give you an idea of how interesting effect with long blades temperature of the forge, it
BGKFM_86-103.indd 94 10/27/08 4:23:40 PM

Don Fogg centers the edge on the The “bark” is ground off the blade. The blade bevels are rough-ground.
belt grinder.
will appear to hang and not temperature before I start forging The Oil Plunge
gain in temperature. During to adapt my eye to the changing The blade is at critical
this stage, shadows will be colors. Finding the decalescence temperature and I quickly
visible on the blade. It is still and recalescense points is one withdraw it from the fire and
gaining temperature, but energy sure way of knowing what my immediately plunge it into the oil.
is required for the carbon to temperatures are. Another way is I am using a commercial quench
move from within the matrix of to check the steel with a magnet. oil called Tough Quench. There
the iron molecule and go into Steel will lose its ability to attract are many possibilities for the
solution. Once this finally occurs a magnet just prior to the critical quench. A vegetable-type oil will
throughout the blade, the steel temperature. work well, especially peanut and
will brighten and be uniform over Once the blade reaches critical Canola oil.
the entire length. temperature and has soaked long I hold the blade in the quench
Bring the blade above critical enough to put all the carbides until it stops bubbling, gently
temperature and then allow it into solution, then it is ready to moving it back and forth. It is
to cool in still air in a darkened quench. I have a pair of special important to enter the quench
space. I have a pipe by the offset tongs that allow me to hold cleanly and not to tip it to one
forge for this purpose. As the the blade by the tang and have side or the other. Doing so will
temperature drops, it will lose the tongs out of the way when I almost guarantee warping. I like
color until it reaches a point dip it into the quench tank. to think of this as the first cut
where it seems to hang, and then, Having a pair of straight tongs the sword will make, and it is the
especially in the thinner sections, will greatly increase the size of moment when it comes alive.
it will appear to visibly brighten the tank required to get the whole After the quenching solution
as the steel drops below critical blade into the quench. It is a has stopped bubbling, I remove
temperature. good idea to do a dry run on your the blade and scrape off the clay.
Because I work in an outside equipment before you get to the The blade is still too warm to
shop, I have to check for critical hardening stage. touch. With gloves on, I sight
SWORD MAKING ╭ 95
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are extremely tough, while
the Japanese-style blades are
sometimes left full hard because
the blade has toughness in the
unhardened back. Full-hard edges
will chip and it only makes sense
to draw them down (cool them)
some to increase the toughness.
Sword-length blades will
generally exceed the size of a
normal kitchen oven, so you
will have to prepare before you
The author scrapes the blade spine. harden the blade. Many sword
down the blade, and if it needs

adjusting, I do it quickly. It is
still setting up and is somewhat
pliable at this point, but you do
not have much time before it
completely hardens and is fixed.
The blade will continue to
harden and curve until it is
popped into the tempering oven,
so it is a better practice to go
from the quench to the tempering
oven. Most of the cracking that
occurs during hardening comes
from the edge curving too much This is a sen, or scraper, that the author forged from an old file.
and tearing itself apart. This is a
particular problem when water
quenching and it makes the
process quite exciting.
It’s Time to
Temper
After the blade is hardened, it is
hard, but brittle. The tempering
cycle adds heat back to the
Next, the bevels are scraped.
steel and softens it somewhat,
but more importantly it adds where it will not chip in heavy makers use low-temperature
toughness to the steel, making it use, yet still maintain a good salts for this purpose. Low-
far less brittle. Depending on the edge. temperature salts melt at 350-400
style of sword, you will want to Some European swords are F and become liquid capable
draw the hardness to the point drawn to spring temper and of taking heats well in excess
BGKFM_86-103.indd 96 10/27/08 4:23:43 PM

This is a typical drum forge and quench tank of a sword maker. Pictured is the burner assembly on
the drum forge.
of normal blade-tempering Another method is to heat
temperatures. Because the salts sand or glass beads used in sand
are liquid, once heated, the blasting. You can heat them
temperature is fairly uniform with a pipe burner, as well. This
throughout the bath. Salts may method will hold the heat well,
be heated either electrically or but the heat is not as evenly
by using a propane pipe burner distributed and you have to mix
under the tank. them repeated to get a uniform
Blade-bluing salt tanks provide temperature.
a good model for this type of You can also build a small
heating system, and pictures oven using heating elements
of their pipe burners can be and controls from conventional
found. Low-temperature salts electric ovens. Tempering
are relatively inexpensive and temperatures are not very high,
reusable, but they are messy, but you do have to maintain a
corrosive and hygroscopic. Leave consistent temperature for a
them for any length of time, and relatively long period of time and
they will wick moisture from control is of upmost importance.
the air, leaving a layer of water I have tried all the methods
on top of the salts that has to be mentioned and have ended
removed or boiled off every time up building my own electric
you use them. oven. I use resistance wire for
Low-temp salts also have to be heating and cast the internal
If you quench vertically, then you
recharged with water on occasion box out of insulation refractory. will need a cylinder with not only
and this is a dicey operation that The elements are controlled enough depth, but also volume
requires feeding water to hot by a digital controller that so that the quenchant doesn’t
salt at a measured rate. I have gives me consistent results. It overheat. You will, of course,
personally abandoned them was expensive, but solved the need extra quenchant to fill these
because of these problems. problem. containers.
SWORD MAKING ╭ 97
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I set the oven at 450 F and
preheat it while I am hardening
the blade. After hardening, I will
pop it in the oven for a one-hour
draw. I remove the blade and let
it cool to room temperature and
then run another one-hour draw.
I can adjust the temperature if
I find, after checking the blade
with a file, that it is too hard. The
second draw is important because
with all steels there will be some
retained austenite that has not The author’s quenching tongs are bent so that the quenching tank doesn’t
converted to martensite. This have to be nearly as long as would be necessary if straight tongs were used.
retained austenite will change
to fresh martensite during the help but not eliminate warping. surface of the blade and weaken
tempering and cooling process, There are several ways you it. Also, if the blade has been
and the second draw will temper can correct warping after the thoroughly hardened, it should
that martensite. It would not blade has been heat treated. If just spring back or break after
hurt to repeat for a third cycle, the blade has been selectively flexing.
but it is not necessary. hardened using clay on the back,
The times and temperatures
will vary depending on the type
you can often correct the warp
by hammering the blade using a
Finishing the
of steel used and it is a good round-faced hammer. Work over Blade
practice to make smaller test the hardy hole or over a plate Once the blade is straight
blades to determine the best with a hole in it. and the profile is correct, you
combination for what you are If the blade has been can begin to finish the blade. I
trying to make. I am a firm thoroughly hardened, then usually go back to the grinders
believer in testing your work. I you can use heat to correct the to rough in the flats and adjust
routinely take blades through warped section. The Japanese the profile. It is helpful to reduce
progressively more demanding smiths often used a heated the speed of the grinder at this
series of tests all the way to copper block for this purpose, point to minimize the chance
destruction. If you do this but an acetylene torch will work. of overheating the blade. I work
consistently, you will know what Heat a small area on the outside bare handed so I can feel the heat
to expect from your steel and of the curve, being careful not to build up and quench the blade as
what your blades are capable of draw (or reduce) the temper soon as it begins to get warm. I
doing. on the edge, until it just sizzles start with a 40-grit belt, making
water, and then quench the blade. sure to use fresh belts for all
Eliminate Repeat the process many

times and it will slowly begin to
grinding.
Some makers like to work off
Warping straighten the blade. Another the wheel and run lengthwise, but
Inevitably, with long blades, approach is to clamp the blade I have learned to work directly
you will get some warping and and flex it back into position. I off the platen. There shouldn’t
distortion. Good normalizing don’t favor this approach since be much stock to remove, so this
practice prior to hardening will it can leave stretch marks on the stage requires care and a “light
BGKFM_86-103.indd 98 10/27/08 4:23:46 PM

hand.” After the 40-grit belt, I the table until I have just the and trim the excess. It is helpful
graduate to 120- and 220-grit right working height. The stone is to wax the bars so the paper will
belts. I have been trying the new quite heavy and cuts quickly. peel off easily.
Trizac abrasives and do like them I work slowly and rinse the I am using my back and
for this operation. stone frequently. You have to shoulders while I do this
The final geometry of the blade watch the cutting and operate sanding, so I can apply a lot of
should be established now. Since by feel, but soon a nice rhythm pressure and, consequently, it
a sword blade is subjected to is established. I try to work the cuts aggressively. The paper will
incredible forces on the cutting stone at different angles because load quickly, but you can extend
edge, it is important to roll the it is friable and I want it to wear the life of it by scrubbing it
edge in for maximum support. evenly. During this stage, I will occasionally with rough leather.
This can be done using the slack roll the edge and actually sharpen I use the entire length of the bar
belt, but care should be taken the blade in the process. It is also as I work and change the paper
that it doesn’t wash over your time to set the bevel lines. frequently. The scratch pattern
grind lines. After stoning both sides, the is at an opposite angle to the
While grinders are used in my geometry of the blade is set and previous stone scratches. If you
operation, I prefer to finish my it is ready for polishing. For this work each successive grit in
blades by hand. I like the control part, I switch to sheet abrasives. the opposite direction from the
and finish that I get doing it this There is a product commonly previous grit, you can see the
way and it is not as stressful. For used by auto body workers on underlying scratches clearly. You
the final shaping, I use a large jitterbug sanders that is adhesive sand out all of the previous grit
Norton KB8 stone. The stone is backed and comes in rolls of scratches before changing grits.
soaked in water with a touch of various grits. This is made for
Fantastic added.
I use my drill press table to
metal finishing and is an excellent
abrasive.
Sans Stone
hold the sword. I clamp a small I mount the abrasive to sanding Scratches
drill-press vise in a larger vise bars that are roughly 18 inches I start with 180-grit paper to
that is mounted to the table. long and have handles on both remove the stone scratches and
Using a piece of 1x2 wood to back ends. I stick the sandpaper on one finish both side before moving
up the blade, I clamp the whole side and cut to length, trim the to the next grit. When one side
thing in the vise. The advantage side with a box cutter, stick the is completed, I put a strip of
to this is that I can raise or lower remainder to the opposite side masking tape down the length to
Pictured is the exterior and interior of the author’s tempering oven.
SWORD MAKING ╭ 99
BGKFM_86-103.indd 99 10/27/08 4:23:47 PM

A close-up of the sword tip depicts
its geometry. Below the blade is a
Don Fogg takes a stone to the blade. finishing stone in a rinsing solution.
keep the surface from scratching neoprene glued to one side. This black and the pearlite on the back
when I flip it over to do the other block is impervious to water and will etch gray.
side. gives me two different densities I go immediate back to the
After all of the underlying with which to work. rinse water and thoroughly rinse
scratches have been removed, After I have a good, 1,000-grit the blade. I spritz the blade with
I switch to 400-grit paper on finish on the blade, I wipe the ammonia and scrub it down
the sanding bar and, going in grease off the blade and give it with a wet paper towel. Rinse
the opposite direction, proceed a light etch in ferric chloride. I and repeat, this time using
to sand out all of the 180-grit made up a tube for the ferric out baking soda on the paper towel.
scratches. of PVC pipe and it is especially Rinse and then wipe the blade
The adhesive-back rolls are useful for the long blades. completely dry.
available up to 400 grit, and It is extremely important to The blade at this point will
then you have to switch to sheet completely degrease the blade. have a light surface oxide. I move
abrasives. You can use spray Also, you should have a container back to the bench and remove the
adhesive to stick the paper to the of clean water that is deep loose oxides with a cotton ball
bar, but it is messy and I find it enough in which to immerse and pumice. I have been using 2F
more convenient to cut the paper the entire blade. Water should fine pumice from a woodworkers
into strips and wrap them around sheet over the entire surface of supply store. You can either use it
a sanding block. the blade. If there are any grease dry or spray the blade down with
After the 400-grit paper, I spots on the blade, clean the WD40 and scrub off all the loose
graduate to 500-, 800- and 1,000- spots until they are gone. oxides.
grit paper. The 1,000-grit sanding I dunk the entire blade in the The finish on the blade will be
is done lengthwise on the blade ferric chloride for a short count dull at this point, but the hamon
using a block with hard neoprene. and then remove it to see if there (temper line) will show clearly. I
The type of backing you use with are any areas that still need to use 2,000-grit paper wrapped over
the abrasive will greatly affect be degreased. If it is clean, then the block with the neoprene side
the finish on the metal. I have I dunk the blade for a 20-second down and pull the paper over the
many sanding blocks that I have count or until the hardened entire length of the blade in one
fashioned. My primary block is area turns black. The tempered smooth motion. For each pass, I
cut from .5-inch Corian with hard martensite on the edge will etch change to a fresh section of paper.
BGKFM_86-103.indd 100 10/27/08 4:24:05 PM

The motion is done with the
body so that the line is straight,
uninterrupted and smooth.
Start at the blade tang and pull,
rocking back as you come to the
end of the blade.
The Swirl-Free
Sword
When you have a nice, swirl-
free, 2,000-grit finish on the
blade, it will have a soft, matte
look. Again, we go back to the
etch, cleaning and degreasing the
blade thoroughly and then doing
another 20-second dunk in ferric
chloride. The author uses the sanding bar to further finish the blade.
The first etch serves as a how the paper cuts. By using the
chemical abrasion, in effect foam backing, you can apply light
eroding the tops of the prior pressure to the paper and it will
sanding marks. The 2,000-grit not leave hard, swirled stop-and-
finish abrades that down even start marks. The finish mimics
finer and leaves a smooth, that which was achieved using
uniform surface. When the blade traditional finger stones.
comes out of the second etch, It is helpful to apply a fluid to
you follow the same procedure, the blade during this process.
making sure that it is completely I will sometimes use Liquid
rinsed and neutralized. This is a Wrench, but because of the
good-looking finish on the blade, petrochemical aspect of the
all the details are visible in a good solution, I prefer to apply soapy
light and it is relatively easy to distilled water. I cut the foam-
maintain. backed, 2,000-grit paper into
You can take the polish to strips 3/8-to-1/2-inches wide each,
another level by continuing to and then cut off 1/2-inch-long
work on the finish. This time we sections. I rub the gritty sides of
will want to distinguish the two the smaller pieces against each
zones on the blade by polishing other to take the bite out of the
the area above the hamon and paper.
leaving the hard area frosted. With a small piece of sandpaper
To polish it, I prepare 2,000-grit under my thumb, I begin to
paper by sticking it to 1/8-inch, lightly sand the whole blade, The author mounts abrasive paper
sticky foam sheets. paying more attention the area to sanding bars that are roughly
I said earlier that the backing above the hamon than below 18 inches long and have handles
will make a big difference in it. The softer steel will polish on both ends.
SWORD MAKING ╭ 101
BGKFM_86-103.indd 101 10/27/08 4:24:06 PM

These are 180-grit diagonal scratch patterns on Shown are 400-grit diagonal scratch patterns on the
the blade. sword blade.
The author applies a sponge backing The author polishes the blade with In the final polishing step, the
on 2,000-grit sandpaper for the next a 2,000-grit thumb pad. author rubs the blade with pumice
step in finishing the sword blade. on a cotton pad.
more than the harder sections. this purpose. I don’t recommend This process is time consuming
Continue to polish until the oxide diamond paste abrasives because and is only finished when you
matte has been polished away. they tend to cut both hard and decide the blade finish looks as
Finishing is a matter of taste and soft equally, and will not produce good as you can make it. I usually
what you should be shooting good results. I rub out the blade stop before the final finish to
for is getting the best look and by putting the paste on a cotton make the habaki [handle charm]
not trying to mimic a traditional pad, replenishing the pad with and fittings for the handle.
finish. After you have finished the paste when it darkens and Whenever you stop for the day,
the blade with the 2,000-grit is not as fluid. Simichrome will or an extended period of time, oil
paper, you can proceed with paste leave a waxy residue on the blade the blade to prevent rust. While
abrasives. that can be cleaned up with I am working on the fittings, I
Simichrome is a fine polish for pumice on a cotton ball. tape the blade with masking tape
BGKFM_86-103.indd 102 10/27/08 4:24:07 PM

The “Jungle Honey”
sword by Jimmy Fikes
is one honey of a
long blade, and an
example of a piece
that novice sword
makers can
strive toward
building.
This Viking sword by Jake Powning

is a particular favorite of the
author, Don Fogg.
it is handle making. challenges. In the future, we will

In ancient cultures, the see evolved sword forms develop.
various parts of the sword New materials and techniques
would be made by craftsmen will enable the smiths to create
who would specialize in each better blades than were possible
particular aspect. We are in the past. It will require the
beginning to develope specialty cooperation of the warrior and
crafts within sword smithing, but the smith to discover the new
to insure against scratching the more commonly, the smith will potentials.
finish. have to learn to handle his own While we are fortunate to be
The type of finish you choose work. able to draw on the experience
to apply to the blade will be and artifacts of the past, what is
determined by its use and Summary exciting about our times is that
function. I am fascinated by the The history of swords is rich we have a chance to once again
hamon because it is beautiful and fascinating. When you redefine the symbols of character.
and because it shows the heat begin to make swords, you are Ours is a new age, yet there are
treatment of the sword. So, partaking in that history at its still the ominous dragons to slay,
my process is centered around latest evolution. We have many and like the dragons of old, their
enhancing the beauty of that technical advantages today, but oppressive presence blocks the
characteristic. the process is remarkably similar light of truth. The warrior and
This is the end of the sword to what the ancients did, and it the smith are alive again and
smith’s work, and from here on, certainly encompasses the same answering the clarion call.
SWORD MAKING ╭ 103
BGKFM_86-103.indd 103 10/27/08 4:24:12 PM

Building the Bolsters
of “Alchemy”
Take it from one meticulous knifemaker, the bolsters
of an art knife are the centerpieces
By John Lewis Jensen
W
ith training in jewelry, sculpture and metal
smithing, my method of knifemaking tends to
be a bit “old school.” My education from the
Rhode Island School of Design instilled precision, innovation
and problem solving, among other things. Yet, the main
focus was in the education, knowledge and understanding
of the age-old methods of complete hand fabrication. My
working methodology is in many ways an over-the-top style
Knifemaker John Lewis Jensen
of doing things, and that is how people view my work.
was trained in jewelry, sculpture
and metal smithing at the Rhode
Island School of Design and says
his education instilled precision,
innovation, problem solving and
age-old methods of complete hand
fabrication.
amazingly outfitted workshop.

Most of what I do does not
require advanced equipment, and
I think that it is more applicable
to a larger audience. Of course,
the more tools and equipment the
better!
At first glance, people often
mistake my fixed blades for
John Jensen’s art knives are highly regarded in the knifemaking community as
innovated edged collectibles. The making of just the bolster area of one of his folding knives. This is due to
art knives is explained in this chapter, and it alone takes hours to complete. the layering of materials and
embellishment that I employ
Feel free to take my particular Another advantage, in addition in the construction of all of my
style and apply it in your own to tightening up skills, is that knives. While making knives,
way. I realize most people don’t my style of construction is I can incorporate anodizing,
want to make 150 to 350-plus- rather timeless, and so does not layering, inlays, under-lays,
hour knives! necessarily entail the need of an carving, cutaways, color, depth
BGKFM_104-123.indd 104 10/27/08 4:28:27 PM

The author draws and refines knives on paper, working out all issues in terms of design and proportions.
He says the finished knives are usually a 98-percent match to his original drawings. This particular drawing
is of a knife he named “Alchemy,” and he outlines how to build the bolster of Alchemy in this chapter.
and dimension in an unending actually Part Two of the overall tools, equipment and machines
number of combinations, choices documentation of the Alchemy are in proper working order. They
and treatments. knife project. should be well oiled, have new,
Aside from working closely This is a complex bolster sharp cutting blades and grinding
with several damascus smiths, because there are no straight belts. Work on clean, flat surfaces.
I also forge and use my own lines and it doesn’t simply follow Most importantly for the sake of
damascus steel, as I did here for the outside profile of the knife. precision is that work surfaces
the blade of this knife, The sequence and construction are perfectly square in relation to
Overall, fixed blades have of these bolsters is a microcosm band-saw blades, grinding belts
always been my first true love. of the techniques and issues you and drill-press chucks.
They give me a much larger would face in most aspects of
canvas on which to work, and knifemaking, so what you learn Materials
that, in turn, gives me a larger here can take you much further The following is a list of tools
palette from which to draw. With than just this specific application. and materials that I used to
fixed blades, I’m not constrained create the bolsters of Alchemy.
by size, design or mechanical Safety In order of appearance, they are:
movements. While all of my It is important to take a a 4-inch-by-36-inch belt grinder;
knives are made to the same moment and remember safety Scotch brand permanent double-
exacting standards as more equipment. On this particular stick tape; a vise; an X-Acto blade;
traditional “using” blades, and project, as with all aspects of Crazy Glue; a metal-cutting band
therefore are fully functional, I knifemaking, eye protection is saw and metal-cutting blade; a
want my knives to be viewed as essential. You might also want metal square; Burr King or Bador
sculpture suitable for display. to consider hearing protection, belt grinder with flat platen and
Even though my construction especially when using the band table attachment; oscillating
techniques are being applied to a saw. A band saw can make a spindle sander (laminate top
fixed blade in this case, they can high-pitched, ear-damaging preferred because metal tabletops
also be adapted to the making of whine, particularly when cutting will scratch up your materials
folders. titanium. A respirator can come surfaces more); Dykem steel
My inclusion here in this in handy depending on how bluing layout fluid; measuring
book, specifically on bolster sensitive you are to dust, and calipers; small clamps; scribe;
construction, is just one part of a in particular here when using center punch; rawhide or plastic
much larger educational project. cutting fluid. It certainly is a mallet; drill press; #50 drill bits;
The construction of the overall good idea to use these lines of scraper; nail polish remover
core frame of this knife can be protection at all times. or acetone; small riffling file;
viewed on my website, www. Another thing to check into number punch set; 1-inch-by-2-
jensenknives.com, under the before starting is the condition inch-by-3-inch precision blocks;
“Process” section. This chapter is of your tools. Make sure your hand tap wrench; 2-56 taps; 320-
BOLSTERS OF “ALCHEMY” ╭ 105
BGKFM_104-123.indd 105 10/27/08 4:28:29 PM

grit sandpaper; heavy duty wire had Timascus on hand already. It tool marks. This takes a bit of
cutters or a jewelers saw; cup came precision-milled from the elbow grease, especially with the
bur; Flex Shaft or Dremel tool; supplier in a 1/8-inch thickness. material being titanium. I just
1-inch-by-30-inch belt grinder; However, as you can see in the want to smooth out the surface. I
small, slotted screwdriver; 2-56 accompanying photo, there have carefully cut out the bolster
screws; file machine or rotary are some rough tooling marks section from my overall drawing
files; 1/8-inch drill bits; and a that should be eliminated. The and double-stick taped this shape
lathe. smoother the contact surfaces down to the topside of the raw
Of course you’re also going are to other contact surfaces, the material that I want to be my
to need whatever material you tighter the overall fit of the knife front bolster.
choose to make your bolsters. In parts. It is important and critical, As you can see in the
this case, I am using Timascus, to me anyway, that components accompanying photo, I have
or pattern-welded titanium, be “air tight,” and that there are smoothed the surface. You can
available exclusively from Alpha absolutely no visual gaps between see the grit marks of the sanding
Knife Supply. materials. belt, but the bolster material is
I hand sand the flats. Even certainly smooth and flat to the
though I am technically using touch and sight. The process is
First Steps the 4-inch-by-36-inch belt sander, repeated for both bolsters.
Toward a Beauty I am not turning it on, as that

would be a bit too aggressive in
I use permanent double-stick
tape to stack and adjoin the top
of a Bolster this case. The piece is small and and bottom bolsters together. I
Because my work is so would be hard to hold against sand until all surfaces that will
complicated, my first step is to a moving belt. It could easily come into contact with other
draw and refine everything on get away from me, which could surfaces are completely flat. In
paper, working out all of the damage the piece and/or my this case, I remove the tool marks
issues in terms of design and hands! I simply hand sand it off the bottom of the top bolster
proportions. Once this is done, I with even pressure on a 320-grit (I don’t have to worry about the
make about six Xerox copies of sanding belt. topside of the top bolster right
the drawing that will be cut and I’m not trying, in particular, now), and both sides of the
pasted to material as needed. to remove thickness, only to bottom bolster. The latter will be
In the case of these bolsters, I eliminate the slightly irregular coming into contact with not only
the bottom side of the top bolster,
but also with the knife body, as
well as with table surfaces in
sawing, grinding and drilling
applications.
I do not overlap the strips of
tape. Instead, I lay them down
carefully, side by side, so that they
lie on the same plane. Otherwise
they could be off of square by a
few thousandths of an inch.
Be careful to get the proper
This photo shows the back (bottom) side of the front bolster. As evident, double-stick tape. 3M makes a
there are some rough tooling marks that needed to be smoothed. permanent version (color coded
BGKFM_104-123.indd 106 10/27/08 4:28:29 PM

The author hand sands the flats. The grit marks of the sanding belt are visible, but the bolster material is
certainly smooth and flat to the touch and sight.
red) and a not-so-sticky version the bolster will give the knife not to melt the glue and tape.
(color coded blue). This can be a dynamic and dimensional Until we get screws in place, it
confusing because the overall appearance. It is also one more is important that the layers stay
color of both packages is yellow layer to work with a file and/or aligned.
plaid. Make sure you use the red anodize. I have been using this After making sure the band
version. The blue version will idea for a while; it’s more work, saw and worktable are square, I
not hold up through the bolster- but adds a nice touch, something carefully cut the bolster to rough
making process and is likely to you don’t otherwise see on knives. shape, just outside of the design
fail to hold the pieces together in I have carefully double-stick line. I try to cut as close as I can
their proper places. taped all four bolster layers to the line, but still leave myself a
together and am now giving the little room for cleanup. The band
Layered Bolsters assembly a good squeeze in a vise saw makes some rather rough
In the accompanying photo, to secure everything in place. marks along the newly cut edges.
you can see the two Timascus I trim the excess tape from the You want to give yourself
pieces stacked and taped. sides with an X-Acto blade. This enough room to grind out those
Underneath this you’ll discern excess tape will get in the way marks without grinding into your
two more rectangles of material. otherwise, catch on work surfaces profile. If you cut too close to
These additional pieces are .0035- and clog up with grit when I the line, by the time you’re done
inch-thick rectangles of titanium start cutting. I suggest getting in finish-grinding the saw marks,
that I have pre-cut. They are also the habit of working cleanly and the bolster could be undersize.
going to be a part of the bolsters, orderly. It will save unforeseen The band saw does not cut
as a sort of an under-liner of the headaches. curves. You can tweak the blade
Timascus. I felt the Timascus I also run a bead of Crazy Glue a bit, but you’ll have to take off
thickness was a bit too thin in along the edges of the assembly large chunks of material at a time
regards to the proportions of the to help secure everything in from in the curvy areas. Yes, lots
rest of the knife. place and keep parts from of material and money end up on
The additional bolster layer will moving and shifting as I start the floor!
thicken things up a bit, as well the initial work. It is important On the grinder, using the back
as give another visual element not to overstress or overheat the platen with table accessory,
to the overall design of the stacked layers during this critical clean up the convex areas of the
knife. Another layer underneath stage of construction. Be careful material stack only. Before doing
BGKFM_104-123.indd 107 10/27/08 4:28:29 PM

Excess tape is trimmed from the
sides of the bolster using an X-Acto
blade. Get in the habit of working
cleanly and orderly, as it will save
you unforeseen headaches.
Two Timascus bolster pieces are stacked and taped. Underneath this you scratches on your material as
can see two more rectangles of material. These additional pieces are you’re moving it around and into
.0035-inch-thick pieces of titanium that the author had pre-cut. These are the sanding drum.
also going to parts of the bolsters, as a sort of under-liners of the Timascus.
The Aggressive
Grit
You can also get several
different grits of sanding sleeves.
Start with the most aggressive
grit sleeve to quickly erase the
band-saw-blade marks. Again,
this is a woodworking machine,
so it does not have a lot of natural
The author has carefully double-stick taped all four bolster layers together, aggression. Compensate for this
giving the assembly a good squeeze in a vise to secure everything in place. by using the most aggressive
this, you should knock off any profile with the rest of the knife. grit sleeves. As you get closer
rough burs created by the band Blend those later after you know to a finished profile, change
saw on the bottom side of the proper placement of the bolsters incrementally to the smoother
material stack, using either a on the knife. grit sanding sleeves.
fine file or by running the stack Now it’s time to clean up In the accompanying photo,
across 320-grit sandpaper on a the concave areas with an you can see the difference
flat surface. The material stack oscillating spindle sander. This between the now-smooth areas
should rest flat on the table, thus is traditionally a woodworking that were finished up using the
assuring square grinding. tool, but it works great for sanding machine, and the still-
There are two areas along the knifemaking and keeps all parts rough, band-saw-cut areas. The
profile to stay away from for the at precise 90-degree angles small, hooked area of the bolster,
moment, still leaving them rough, in relation to each other. I as well as the tip in front, will be
and therefore a bit oversized. recommend finding an oscillating cleaned up later with a different
These are the areas—shown with spindle sander with a laminate tool ideal for tighter areas.
arrows in the accompanying top, as opposed to a metal top. Apply Dykem steel bluing
photo—that share the outside The laminate top will cause fewer layout fluid to the general area on
BGKFM_104-123.indd 108 10/27/08 4:28:30 PM

the frame of the knife where the
bolsters will meet it.
Using the calipers, measure and
lightly mark where (according to
your full drawing of the bolster
area of your own knife) you
want the rear, bottom edge of the
bolster to rest against the handle.
In the related photo, it’s easy to
see, in the slight, rough overhang
of the bottom-rear-most concave The author runs a bead of Crazy Glue along the edges of the assembly to
area of the bolsters (now lying help secure everything in place and keep parts from moving and shifting as
in place on the knife), why I he starts the initial bolster-building work.
suggested leaving that part
unfinished after the band saw cut.
It is the area that will be blended
once the bolster is secured in
place.
Use a small, preferably copper-
jawed, clamp to hold the bolster
stack to the knife body. Copper-
jawed clamps lock up precisely
and don’t mar surfaces, as do
After making sure the band saw
steel C-clamps. Get in the practice
and worktable are square, the
of wiping off the contact faces of author carefully cuts the bolster to
the clamp, even if just with your shape just outside the design lines.
fingers. This will prevent any dust
or grit from getting on your work, secured. You now have two
potentially scratching surfaces or placement marks showing where
preventing proper lock-up of the the bolsters will permanently
Using the back platen with table
clamps to your work. reside on the handle. Until
accessory on his Burr King grinder,
In the accompanying photo, securing the bolsters to the
the author cleans up the convex
taken from the rear side of frame, the registration marks areas of the bolster.
the stack, you can see the area consistently show you where
that has been left rough and the bolsters are supposed to the proper position on the frame
overhanging on the top side of touch the handle each time of the knife by lining the stack up
the bolster. Further on in the they are moved in the building with the previously scribed profile
bolster-making process, it will be process, whether intentionally or marks.
necessary to blend the outside unintentionally. Between eyeballing the proper
profile of the knife with the areas Remove the drawing and tape position according to my design,
that overhang. from the top of the stack, and and then refining by measuring,
Use a sharp-tipped scribe to remove the stack from the clamp I’m going to mark out the
trace the profiles of the finished (it would be in the way now). placement of holes to drill by
bolster areas onto the handle Paint a layer of Dykem on the top scribing an “X” at the center
where they will eventually be surface. Lay the bolster stack in point.
BGKFM_104-123.indd 109 10/27/08 4:28:31 PM

The difference
between the smooth
areas and the still-
rough marks left
by the band saw is
easily discernable.
I’m now going to line up a

center punch on the crosshairs,
knock the top of the punch lightly
with a rawhide or plastic mallet,
and therefore register a mark for
drilling my holes.
The author cleans up the concave areas of the bolster with an oscillating
spindle sander.
A Bit Closer
to the Bit
I like to work as close to the
drill bit as possible. My table only
rises to a certain level, so I raise
my work up closer to the tip of
the drill bit by placing the bolster
on a precision 1-inch-by-2-inch-
by-3-inch block.
Make certain the table is
square and level and that all work
surfaces are clean, assuring a
perfect hole.
Drilling into any material, and
The author applied Dykem steel-bluing layout fluid to the general area on especially titanium, requires
the knife frame where the bolsters will lie. even pressure, and above all,
patience. Proper drilling is done
by penetrating the material in
small increments, backing the
drill bit out, then burrowing a
little deeper into the material; in
and out, in and out. Do not drill
all the way through the material
in one motion; you are sure to
wear out your tools, as well as
potentially break the drill bit off
in your material.
The holes will eventually be
Using calipers, the author measured and lightly marked where he wants the tapped for 2-56 screws, so the
rear, bottom edge of the bolster to sit on the handle. drill bit to use here is a number
BGKFM_104-123.indd 110 10/27/08 4:28:32 PM

50. Drill bits come in regular, long
and short lengths. I prefer the
short bits because they are more
than adequate as far as flute length
goes. Rarely in knifemaking is
any one hole drilled over an inch
deep. The shorter the drill bit, the
sturdier it is, which also helps
eliminate wobble.
After drilling the first two holes, The author will blend the rough overhang of the bottom, rear-most, concave
it is time to separate and clean up area of the bolster once it is secured in place.
the four layers of the bolster stack.
I use an X-Acto knife to wedge
apart and separate the pieces.
Even though the stack was held
tightly together, some small burs
formed from the cutting, grinding
and drilling of the material. The
burs can start to push the layers
apart and knock the stack “off
square.” Visually, you may not see
the unevenness, but you will later You can see the area the author left The author uses a sharp-tipped
see and feel the difference when rough and overhanging on the top scribe to mark the profile of the
you try to screw things together area of the bolster. bolsters.
that are supposed to be at perfect
90-degree angles in relation to each Take care to stay away from
other. Take the time to catch it the edges. With a regular file,
before it happens. you’d be dragging it across the
I use another type of scribe to entire expanse of surface, causing
scrape off the residual tape from unnecessary scratches, and you’d
all the surfaces of the bolster also run the risk of slipping and
pieces. A little nail polish remover nicking the nice, square edges
also helps with this. I prefer nail of your material. If you nicked
polish remover to straight acetone. them deep enough, they could be Two placement marks show where
The ingredients in nail polish visible, which is unsightly and a the bolsters will sit on the handle.
remover make it work better than mark of bad craftsmanship.
acetone alone. here on out, most operations on
I use a small riffling file to go
over the drill holes on both sides
Marks of a the bolsters will be as separate
front and backside steps. It is
of each piece, carefully removing Good Maker important to marry the front
burs. The curve of the riffling file I mark the underside of all and back bolsters with their
ensures that I’m only hitting the four pieces using a number set corresponding under-liners for
area of material that I want to, to punch-mark the pieces for each operation. Because you will
isolating the cleanup to where identification: #1 for the front be constantly taking everything
specifically needed. side; #2 for the backside. From apart and putting it back together
BGKFM_104-123.indd 111 10/27/08 4:28:33 PM

again, it is essential to keep the
correct pieces paired.
Place the front bolster pieces on
the front side of the knife, again
using the previously scribed lines
to indicate proper positioning.
Use two clamps to ensure no
movement during the next
critical stage of passing the drill
bit through the predrilled holes
in the bolster and through the
handle core.
The author removed the clamp, drawing and tape from the top of the
Position the clamped assembly
bolster stack. He also painted a layer of Dykem on the top surface.
on two precision 1-inch-by-2-
inch-by-3-inch blocks to assure
flatness and stability, and to make
clearance room for the clamps.
Make sure the blocks are on the
same plane! Using a new, sharp
#50 drill bit, position the bit
in perfect alignment with the
previously drilled bolster holes,
raising and lowering the bit
while the drill press is in the “off”
position.
It is important to properly
position the material to assure a
By scribing an “X” at the center points the author marks out the placement
of the holes to drill. clear continuation of the bolster
hole into your knife frame. From
here, turn on the drill press and
carefully lower the bit through
the bolster hole and into the
material underneath, again slow
and easy, in and out, in small
movements. Repeat this process
for the second hole.
As you can see in the
accompanying photo, there is
quite a large bur on the exit side
of the previously drilled hole.
Not all burs are this noticeable,
but they are always there after
machining operations. You may
The author lines up a center punch on the crosshairs that indicate placement not even notice most burs by
of the holes. sight, only by touch. This is why
BGKFM_104-123.indd 112 10/27/08 4:28:35 PM

it is so important to clean your
material after each machining
operation.
In the accompanying photo,
notice the efficient function of a
riffling file; there is just a small
concentrated area of the file in
contact with the surface of the
material. Imagine all the burs
that were created as the drill bit
passed through from one material
layer into the next. The burs can
Since the drill table only rises so
and will actually cause separation
high, the author raises the work After drilling the first two holes, the
of material, even under the
closer to the drill bit by placing the four layers of the bolster stack are
pressure of the clamps. The
bolster on a precision block. separated and polished.
material has to go somewhere! So
from here on out, get used to this
mantra: Disassemble, de-bur and
reassemble!
In the related photo, you can
see all of the layers and parts
fully disassembled, including the
internal structure of the knife:
damascus blade, titanium tang
wrap/handle core, two titanium
liners, and the front-top and
bottom bolsters with their under-
liners.
At this juncture, it’s a good
idea to carefully de-bur the
Some small burs formed on the bolster stack.
bolster holes in all layers, as well
as to give all parts a light, flat holes, taps have to be extremely
rub on 320-grit sandpaper. The hard. As such, they are brittle
sandpaper will ensure that dirt and prone to breakage. Use new,
and other particles are removed, sharp taps with cutting fluid.
and that the parts are clean
before reassembly. The next step
The Tip of
is to tap (thread) the two bolster the Tap
holes drilled thus far in all layers Carefully and constantly check
of the knife. for straightness. Gently insert the
Use a 2-56 hand tap to thread tip of the tap into the hole, and
the previously drilled holes. with a little pressure, give it a
Tapping involves patience, above clockwise twist to get it started. The author uses a scribe to scrape
all things, and in order to cut This is the only time you should off the residual tape from all
threads into the sides of drilled use pressure. Once you feel it surfaces of the bolster pieces.
BGKFM_104-123.indd 113 10/27/08 4:28:36 PM

bite, let the tap do the rest of the hour per hole, if necessary going
work. Using small one-eighth and through several taps per hole,
one-quarter turns, twist the tap rather than break a tap, especially
further into the hole, back it out, in titanium.
then repeat just a little past where Use a fresh tap per bolster,
it reached the first time. particularly when tapping
You will be able to feel when titanium. It may even take two
you are biting into fresh material. taps per bolster. It has taken me
If you hear a loud squeak, up to eight hours to remove a
immediately stop and reverse the broken tap. It’s not fun! I have
The author uses a small riffling file tap! It’s better to take a half an recently discovered that an EDM
to remove burs from the drill holes.
shop close to my house can
effectively blast out broken taps
for about $60 a pop.
After all the bolster screw holes
have been tapped in all parts, de-
bur once again. Reassemble the
blade, tang wrap/ handle core and
liners, and again run a 2-56 tap
through the holes to blend the
threads. Disassemble, de-bur and
reassemble.
The next step is to permanently
mate the front-top and bottom
bolsters to the handle core using
screws. It is essential that the
Using a number set, the author surfaces where the bolsters meet
punch-marks each side of the The front bolster pieces are placed
the frame are clean and flat.
bolsters for ease of identification on the corresponding side of the
Double check for burs from the
when parts are moved during the knife using the previously scribed
tapping process, and gently sand
building process. lines to indicate proper positioning.
both sides of the assembled knife
core until they are flat. Repeat
the process for both sides of the
bolster liners and the bottom side
of the Timascus bolster.
Assemble one bolster, the
bottom in this case, onto the
frame using two clamps. Use two
#50 drill bits in the holes to align
the parts. It’s handy to have extra
drill bits on hand in this case, so
keep you’re worn-out drill bits.
Use the shank of the drill bit, not
The clamped assembly is positioned on two blocks to assure flatness and the fluted end. The non-fluted
stability while drilling. end will fit nice and tight into a
BGKFM_104-123.indd 114 10/27/08 4:28:59 PM

tapped hole. You may even have
to gently push the drill bit into
the hole with a few taps of a
rawhide or plastic mallet.
“Tapping” cuts threads into the
wall of the hole, creating ridges
that are wider than the initial
drilled hole. The ridges of the
threaded hole that face inside
are still the same diameter as the
initial pre-tapped hole. Get the
alignment drill bits all the way
through all components, and then
There is quite a large bur on the exit side of the previously drilled hole.
clamp everything together. Now
you know everything is square.
You have to remove the drill
bits, which might take some help
from a pair of pliers. Remember
that in drilling, the bit will go
into the hole easily because the
bit is spinning. Flutes allow
for air, pressure and debris to
escape. This is not the case with
the shank being hand forced into
the hole; that is why it seems so
much tighter.
Now that the holes are all re-
aligned, run the tap through the
You can see the beauty of the function of a riffling file—there is just a small,
already tapped components one
concentrated area where the file touches the surfaces of the material.
more time to blend the threads.
Blending the threads will help
the screw smoothly transition
from one layer to the next.
Repeat the process for the second
hole. Disassemble, de-Bur and
reassemble.
After re-tapping the holes, and
with a clamp in place to hold
the alignment, insert a few 2-
56 screws. Now that the screws
are in place, you won’t be quite
as reliant on the clamps for
assistance as you were previously,
and you will be adding more
screws. All the layers and parts are fully disassembled.
BGKFM_104-123.indd 115 10/27/08 4:29:01 PM

Using a hand tap, the holes are
threaded.
The front-top and bottom bolsters are screwed to the handle core. on the inside. To ensure proper
alignment, you do not want the
ends of the screws touching in
the middle. Screws meeting in
the middle would keep you from
getting the proper tension on
the parts and prevent the screw
heads from lying tight and flush
against the outside surfaces of the
bolsters.
Angled screw heads leave
small gaps between layers, so the
screws should fully engage the
Using two clamps, the bottom bolster is attached to the frame. Timascus and titanium under-
liner, the knife frame liners
Anchoring The 2-56 screws are cut to

length using a heavy gauge wire
and about 30 to 40 percent of
the center core. Threading all
Pieces in Place cutter or jeweler’s saw. Screws components pulls them all tighter
Always use at least three screws will be coming in from both sides together. Some knifemakers
per component. Limiting each of the knife on all the bolsters use a clearance hole on the
part to only two screws can cause and other handle components, outside components and only
some play in the parts and they’ll so the bottom ends of the screws tap the liners or bottom-most
wiggle ever so slightly between will be meeting inside the knife in components, but I think my way
the two screw placement points. the center of the hole. Measure, ensures that there is no way for
A third screw per part anchors cut and grind down the ends of things to move or loosen.
the pieces in place and a fourth the screws. Use a small cup bur in Now remove the rear bolster
screw per part is even better. For a Flex Shaft or Dremel to de-bur and repeat the same steps to
this project, there will be four the cut ends of the screws, thus attach the front bolster.
screws per bolster. In order to allowing the newly shortened Re-screw the rear-side bolster
prevent any movement of parts, screws to ease into place without back onto the frame so that both
as well as to evenly distribute binding. sides are attached to the knife.
pressure across components, the Make sure you have a little Because there are more screws
more screws the better. space between the two screws in place on the bottom half of
BGKFM_104-123.indd 116 10/27/08 4:29:02 PM

After re-tapping the holes, the A tap is run through the aligned holes to blend the threads.
screws are placed.
The rear bolster is screwed back The top of the bolster is blended, or ground flat, even with the top of the
onto the frame so that both sides frame.
are attached to the knife.
the bolster, fully tightening them

could produce a slight gap or
separation at the top between
the bolsters and the frame. Keep
a clamp in place to ensure that
everything is resting flat, evenly
and squarely where the bolsters
meet the frame.
Proceed in blending the top Excess bolster material is removed via a belt grinder.
of the bolsters to the top of the
frame. Apply Dykem along the been established as the desired the frame where the bolster needs
area so when you begin to grind, profile of the knife. By checking to be blended to that section of
you’ll be able to see roughly the Dykem, you will know when the frame.
how much material you have enough extra bolster material has On a 1-inch-by-30-inch belt
removed and where you still have been removed and the surface is grinder, carefully remove the
to grind and blend. The shape of even with the frame. Apply a little excess bolster material along the
the top of the frame has already Dykem on the rear-bottom side of top, checking it periodically to see
BGKFM_104-123.indd 117 10/27/08 4:29:03 PM

how close it comes to the surface
of the frame. Use a belt grinder,
as opposed to a Burr King setup,
as it’s smaller and can get a little
tighter into the working area.
To make room for the clamp
and to clear the table, use a
precision block to lift the work,
while still keeping it square to the
belt. This is a little precarious, as
you will only be using one block
The remaining blue marks indicate where more bolster material needs to on the far-left side under the
be removed. blade.
There is not enough room on
the worktable for two blocks, but
most importantly, the two areas
where the frame could rest on the
block are on two different planes.
The handle area has an additional
.0060-inch thickness on each side,
so it is wider than the blade. Be
especially careful not to tilt the
handle area, keeping the blade
tight and flat on the block. A little
slip and the grinding won’t be
square.
Check to see where you are
with the grinding process. In the
related photo, you can easily tell
what has happened, as the blue is
no longer on the areas where the
A spindle sander excels at smoothing out the bottom of the bolster so it’s material has been removed. You
even with the frame. can still see the blue in the center
handle core, especially, which
indicates that all the high, excess
spots on the bolsters have not
been taken off yet.
Be careful as you are grinding
more and getting closer to the
Dykem marks; you just want to
kiss the bluing off of the core. Do
not continue to grind past the
marks because, in doing so, you
The bottom of the bolster is even with the handle frame, but the concave would be changing the overall
curves of the bolster and handle have yet to be smoothed. shape of the knife from the initial
BGKFM_104-123.indd 118 10/27/08 4:29:05 PM

design. Also, remember to change
to a finer, finishing-grit belt as
you near completion.
Switch to the
Spindle Sander
Switch to the spindle sander
now to blend the bottom-rear of With a file machine, the author is able to finish the inside of the small curl
the bolster to the frame. Set up on top of the bolster.
the assembly on two precision
blocks. In the accompanying
photo, you can see the main body
of the knife is resting primarily
on one block. The second block
lies beneath only a bit of the liner
that flares out from under the
front bolster. There is just enough
of the liner available to come in
contact with the block.
Keep an eye on that forward
block to make sure it doesn’t The bolsters are realigned and reassembled.
slip out from under its proper
location when moving the
assembly around the table or
from the vibration of the running
machine. It is important that
the knife rests evenly on the two
blocks to ensure level flatness,
and therefore square, precise
grinding.
The top area of the bolster
still needs a little work. You will Drill bit shanks help line up the layers of the bolsters.
need to smooth the inside radii
of the top little curl. The rough
area along the bottom-rear of the
bolster is now nicely blended to
the handle frame. However, as
the bolster only shares a small
section of the profile in common
with the overall outside profile
of the knife, there is a slight
discrepancy where the bolster
and handle frame split off in two The bolster assembly is clamped in a fixed position and the holes are
directions. tapped one more time to ensure proper threading.
BGKFM_104-123.indd 119 10/27/08 4:29:06 PM

After each step of bolster
production, the parts are The tips on the fronts of the bolsters Marks are punched for the last two
disassembled, de-burred and were slightly uneven before taken screw holes.
reassembled using screws. to a belt grinder.
With a fine sanding belt on the The author used a rotary file on his The last bolster holes are drilled.
flat platen and table assembly of a drill press to remove excess bolster
Burr King grinder, a bump on the material. There is a light “facet,” which
bolster is smoothed. occurs where two concave objects
meet. You will have to remove
the bolsters, reassemble them,
and just ever so slightly remove
the facet, blending the curves of
the bolster. But before you get to
that, leave the assembly together
so that you can get into the top
little curl.
It’s best to work on a file
machine because it accepts
several sizes of files, each of
which is mounted in a chuck
The spindle sander works well to under the table. There is a small
smooth the transition area between The bolster stack is once again hole in the table for each file to
two concave curves. disassembled and de-burred. pass through. When turned on,
BGKFM_104-123.indd 120 10/27/08 4:29:08 PM

The screw heads will be hidden beneath gold bezels inset with gemstones.
The author sets and locks the depth

of the drill press to match how deep
he wants the bezel holes drilled.
the file machine and rotary files

do the same job (though not as
The bolster stack is disassembled and de-burred. well) as the oscillating spindle
sander, but on a smaller scale for
tighter areas. However, you will
still need to go in and hand-sand,
finishing out the tool marks.
A small, handmade sanding
drum set up in a flex shaft
hand tool works great for this.
After finishing this operation,
disassemble and de-bur.
The author applies Dykem to the edge of the bolster and scribes a line Realign and reassemble the
where of the gemstone bezels will settle.
bolsters themselves, lining things
the file goes straight up and down the curve from where the frame up using the drill bit shanks.
at a high rate of speed. With the goes in one direction and the Clamp the assembly to affix the
file machine, you can get into that bolster goes in another. position, remove the drill bits,
little top curl to clean it up and File machines are hard to find and then re-tap to make sure
help smooth the inside radii. and expensive, and it is virtually the holes are blended just for
Just as in a previous operation impossible to find the reverse-cut this temporary setup. With this
when blending the bottom part files for them. The alternative to setup, when you put screws in,
of the bolster, there again will be using a file machine is setting up everything should be properly
a slight discrepancy—the facet in rotary files in a drill press. Both compressed together.
BGKFM_104-123.indd 121 10/27/08 4:29:11 PM

The pivot for the folding knife is secured in the jaws of the lathe.
Where the angled tip meets the shaft

of the drill bit is precisely the point
where the author will stop drilling,
and is exactly how deep he wants
the holes drilled for the bezels.
The width of the pin is decreased so it doesn’t hit the sides of the bezel.
You can see the discrepancy graceful shape. This is going

The 2-56 screws don’t quite fit that was created along the top to be a minimal operation
inside the 4mm bezels. of the bolsters after cleaning up because there was just a slight
the inside of the curl on the top. discrepancy between the surface
The Reassuring Go in and blend that using a fine

sanding belt on the flat platen
faces. Remember to move the
piece across the contact point
Re-Tap and table assembly of the Burr of the spindle sander. If you just
It is important to re-tap when King. Ever so slightly blend the let the spindle sander go up and
moving things into different little bump that was previously down in one place, you will create
positions. Otherwise, the slight created, making sure that it is a a facet, which is what you are
misalignment of threads could nice, graceful smooth curve with trying to avoid.
cause the parts to separate just no chatter or facets. The tips on the fronts of the
slightly when inserting screws. Do the same with the bottom bolsters where also slightly
The screws could jump threads area of the bolsters on the spindle uneven, as well as a bit too long,
where one component meets the sander, blending the transition so touch them up on the belt
next. Disassemble, de-bur, and point of the two slightly different grinder. Now that entire bolster is
reassemble using screws. concave curves into one, smooth, basically to shape, you can grind
BGKFM_104-123.indd 122 10/27/08 4:29:13 PM

The head of the screw should be
left reasonably big to ensure good
purchase and lockdown. The bolsters are screwed down onto the handle frame.
remove material quickly. But be the two last bolster holes , and
careful not to move the grinding disassemble and de-bur the
bit too high or too low. bolster stack.
The bolster stack will once Now you can screw the bolsters
again be disassembled and de- down to your frame.
burred. After repositioning it
in the usual manner, aligning it
and re-tapping it, the front-side
Getting a
bolster only will be reassembled Handle On It
onto the frame. Now that the This is the majority of the
The author placed a screw through entire bolster is shaped and construction of the bolsters.
one of the countersunk holes on From here, you will be adding on
finished, apply Dykem layout
the bolster and through the bolster
fluid on the top of the bolster the rest of the handle materials,
liner.
where the rest of the screws will much in the same fashion as
the tips so that they are flush with be placed. Ballpark the screw the bolsters. Once all the handle
each other, and then finish out placement points by sight and components are in place, they
the front curved area. mark the north/south placement will be contoured to make
Set up a rotary file in a drill with a scribe, measuring the for a nice rounded and more
press, making sure that the length distance from the top with the comfortable handle.
of cutting area on the rotary file calipers. I will most likely leave the
fully covers the area needed to be Remove bolster from the frame. Timascus bolsters at an 800-
ground. It is important that the Then reassemble the bolsters as a grit finish; this is fine and
length of grinding area on the stack, re-aligning and re-tapping. lustrous without being too
rotary file goes past the bottom Deeply scribe in crosshairs bright. Additional polishing
of the assembly to ensure even the drill-hole placement based of the Timascus could result
contact and, therefore, even on the previous marks and in the material being too loud,
grinding of this area. Work on a measurements. especially after anodizing it.
precision block. You can move Punch a small hole on the I hope that you have been able
the rotary file up and down a little crosshairs of the re-assembled to easily follow along, enjoy the
by engaging the depth handle bolster stack for the drilling of process, and most importantly,
on the drill press. This will help the final two screw holes , drill learn a lot!
BGKFM_104-123.indd 123 10/27/08 4:29:18 PM

Methods of Tomahawk
Making are Timeless
Learn how American Indians and early blade
smiths fashioned the fierce and fantastic tomahawk
By Joe Szilaski
E
ver since seeing my first cowboy and Indian movie, In the 1960s I learned
blacksmithing at a trade school in
I have been fascinated by tomahawks, as were most
Hungary. I was one of the lucky
kids back in those days. The first time I saw an Indian ones who had the opportunity
tomahawk in person was when a Wild West show came to to learn from more than one
master of the trade. My first
my small town.
master taught me how to make
knives, cleavers and hatchets.
After learning to fashion those
tools, I had the chance to fulfill
my lifelong dream of making a
tomahawk.
I am still fascinated by
tomahawks and their history.
Though most of the “hawks” I
now make are one-of-a- kind,
presentation-quality pieces, they
are all fully hardened, balanced,
The tomahawk the author made

in the working instruction for
this chapter is based on a well-
photographed piece dating
back to 1793. It belonged to a
Lieutenant Duke and featured a
multi-faceted bowl with double
chevrons. The “eye” (where the
haft goes through the head of the
tomahawk) had raised diamond-
shaped silver overlays. The blade
was engraved, and it sported a You might remember seeing a similar tomahawk in the movie “The Patriot,”
nicely carved ash haft. starring Mel Gibson. The prop used in that movie was also based on the
1793 tomahawk the author reproduced. This is the author’s version.
BGKFM_124-139.indd 124 10/27/08 4:30:39 PM

In preparing a damascus billet, the author prefers to employ high-carbon
steels like 1095 and 15N20. He says there is enough of a difference in
carbon and chemical content between them to result in nice contrast in the
damascus pattern.
raised diamond-shaped silver fullering is easier and offers more

overlays. The blade was engraved, of a time savings, the grinding
and it sported a nicely carved ash and filing will change the original
These terms are generally used to
haft. You may remember seeing damascus pattern, creating nice,
describe the parts of a tomahawk
a similar hawk in the movie “The visually appealing contrast.
head, and by providing them, the
Patriot,” starring Mel Gibson. The This particular hawk, no matter
author makes understanding the
hawk-building process easier prop used in that movie was also what steel it is fashioned from,
based on this period piece. requires a lot of handwork. After
functional tools and weapons. I have made several tomahawks forging the damascus billet,
I blend traditional and modern over the years that were similar the head will be hand forged to
methods of building tomahawks. to the amazing 1793 model. shape. The details of the head will
The basic form of the The working piece for this be hand filed into the steel, and
tomahawk is a hatchet, and it’s instructional will be forged of the haft will be hand fitted and
one of the most perfect designs random-pattern damascus, and carved. I do make use of some
mankind has ever developed. it will fill a custom order from a power tools that would not have
Today we are able to reach the collector. I am not aware of any been available to the original
moon but we still use hatchets. tomahawks from that time period smith back in 1793, but this
In some parts of the country, being made of damascus but that does not eliminate the days of
hatchets are employed as a does not mean there weren't any. handwork.
part of everyday life and the Since this hawk head is forged
tomahawk still has its place in
modern warfare.
from damascus, some of the
steps I take in its formation stray
Preparing
The hawk I make for you here from those used in fashioning the Billet
is based on a well-photographed traditional, non-damascus The first step in making
piece dating back to 1793. It tomahawks. Instead of piercing the project tomahawk is to
belonged to a Lieutenant Duke the eye, I drill and file it to shape. prepare the billet. I prefer to
and featured a multi-faceted bowl Rather than using fuller tools to forge damascus from high-
with double chevrons. The “eye” reduce the size of the neck and carbon steels like 1095 and
(where the haft goes through the blade section under the eye, 15N20 because there is enough
the head of the tomahawk) had I grind and file them. While the of a difference in carbon and
TOMAHAWK MAKING ╭ 125
BGKFM_124-139.indd 125 10/27/08 4:30:41 PM

well for me does not necessarily
suit someone else.
To start making the damascus
billet, the steel layers must be
cleaned, either by sand blasting
or grinding. Once the steel is
clean, I cut it to size to size. I
will forge out two billets, each
measuring 1 1/4 inches high by
1 1/4 inches wide by 8 inches
long. I start stacking my billet,
first with a layer of 1095 steel,
then with a layer of 15N20. I
repeat this sequence until I get
the number of layers I need
to get started. In this case, 11
The author uses a gas forge to heat his steel billet before hammering it layers of steel is more than
during the forging process. He believes gas forges are cleaner, and that enough material to forge the pipe
they offer more control and less smoke than coal forges.
tomahawk.
Each billet is tied with a wire to
help hold the steel together until
I make my first weld. Some blade
smiths use an electric welder to
weld the ends of the billet and
hold the steel together. I feel more
comfortable tying the billet with
Twisting is one way of manipulating steel to create a certain type of design wire, but this is just my personal
or damascus pattern. preference.
Forging the Billet

A good fire is necessary after
preparing a steel billet. I use a
three-burner gas forge. The gas
forge is a wonderful invention,
extremely clean, produces a lot
The author’s damascus billet for the head of the tomahawk is more than
less smoke than a coal forge and
400 layers thick.
offers a lot more control of the
chemical content between them forging is extremely important. temperature. Both types of forges
to achieve a nice contrast in the So far, I have always been able have their pluses and minuses,
damascus pattern. to achieve a strong weld using and both have their place in blade
Besides a nice contrast, the this steel combination, though I smithing.
two steels are compatible, sometimes do employ other steels When using a gas forge, it’s
meaning they weld together well. for damascus. Every smith has a good idea to make sure all of
Compatibility between the two his or her own pet steels. This is its fittings are tightened down.
steels you choose for damascus the way it should be; what works You do not want air leakage that
BGKFM_124-139.indd 126 10/27/08 4:30:41 PM

could cause a horrific explosion. the steel and a new layer of steel tomahawk head will be random-
When you start up a gas forge, is placed between the folds. The pattern damascus, which usually
be careful not to stand in front of final number of layers a billet of would not require twisting. But
it. A small accumulation of gas damascus will have depends on I have found that a not-so-tight
in the forge chamber has been how many times it was folded. twist followed by a few folds
known to throw a flame bigger With each fold, the number of achieves a nice, tight random
than most people would expect. layers doubles. pattern. Besides improving the
Besides a suitable fire, you design, I believe that twisted
also need a good flux. To make Twisting the Billet damascus makes for a strong or
damascus, or “forge-weld steel,” Before I reach the final number structurally sound billet.
as the process is often referred of layers I desire (which is I am careful in performing
to, flux is added sparingly to keep mainly arbitrary, affecting only this operation to make sure the
the steel clean and free from the number of contrasting layers temperature of the steel is correct
oxidation. I have used anhydrous in the damascus pattern and before I begin twisting it (each
borax as a flux for many years possible “tightness” of those steel type has a proper welding
because I like its performance. contrasting steel layers), I twist temperature, information that is
If the steel is not clean the billet. Twisting is one way of readily available from most steel
and oxidation free, you will manipulating the steel to create suppliers). Twisting the billet is
experience weak welds or no a certain type of design or steel quite stressful for steel.
weld at all. Making sure all pattern. The next step is to flatten or
welds are strong and flawless The design of this particular “draw out” the billet. To do this,
is an important step in forging
damascus.
I forge the billets one at a time.
The steel is brought to forging
temperature and the layers of
each billet are forge-welded
together. The forge welding is
done by hand hammering. I do
not use a power hammer for
the welding process, but instead
employ it only for drawing the
billet out to the proper size and
shaping it.
Once the layers are initially
forged together to form a billet, I
clean each billet by grinding off
the scale that was formed during
the forging process. I then place
one new layer of steel in between
the two 11-layer billets to form a
23-layer billet.
I will then fold this billet To “upset steel” is to heat one end of a billet and hammer it “on end” to
several times. For each fold of the increase the steel’s diameter by forcing it to flare outwards equally in all
billet, the scale is cleaned from directions. Such action is necessary for the wide head of a tomahawk.
BGKFM_124-139.indd 127 10/27/08 4:30:42 PM

damascus it is a careful operation
due to the fact that you work
against the structure of the forge-
welded layers. Each hammer
blow has to have enough force
behind it to move the steel. Too
much force can damage the billet,
and not enough force will fail to
move the steel.
This type of operation creates a
lot of pressure against the layers.
If my forge welding would have
any flaws, such as weak welds, a
As the author forges the tomahawk head to shape, he constantly checks the cold spot or dirt in the steel, the
top and side views to make sure everything is proportionate and even. problems would show up quickly
in the form of layer separation.
I first add some flux to the steel determine if the welds of my
and place it back in the forge to
get it up to welding temperature
billet are solid. The ends should
look like one solid non-damascus
Forging the
again. As I draw out the billet, piece of steel. Head to Shape
I am also forging it back into a Now that I have accomplished
rectangular shape. The reason
I bring the billet back up to
Upsetting the correct dimensions for the
billet, I will start forging it to
welding temperature is only as an the Steel shape. I made myself a wooden
extra precaution, in case I would With this billet, I should be able template to use as a reference
have created a small separation to forge most of the tomahawk for size and shape. As I forge the
during the twisting operation. Of head to shape. I only have a 1 ½- billet to shape, I constantly check
course, this should not happen, inch square billet, but the head of the top and side views to make
but better to be safe than sorry. the tomahawk should have a 3 ½- sure everything is nice and even
inch cutting edge. So, I will need and that the blade and the eye
Forging the to “upset” the steel before I begin

to forge the billet to shape.
section are at a 90-degree angle in
relation to each other.
Billet to Size Another reason I choose to Once the general shape is
Once the billet is drawn out, I upset the steel is that it benefits forged out, I begin to “normalize”
fold it a few more times to get to the cutting edge. From my the steel. Normalizing helps
the required size I will need for personal experience, I feel that relieve stress to the steel. I always
this tomahawk—a rough-forged this process improves the steel’s normalize my steel at least three
billet at a minimum of 1 ½ inches grain structure. times. The process is simple:
by 1 ½ inches by 5 ½ inches in To upset steel is to heat one you heat up your steel to a non-
size. After this, the billet will have end and hammer it “on end” magnetic stage and let it cool off
reached its final number of layers, to increase the steel’s diameter, to room temperature.
over 400 in all. forcing it to flare outwards After that, I heat my tomahawk
I then cut a half inch or so off equally in all directions. head again to a non-magnetic
each end of the billet to make Upsetting regular steel is not stage and place it into the hot box
it even. This also allows me to much of a problem, but with to keep it in an annealed state.
BGKFM_124-139.indd 128 10/27/08 4:30:43 PM

The hot box will hold the heat for
a long time, and the steel billet
will cool off slowly, preventing
the steel from hardening where
it would be difficult to work and
shape it.
Some smiths use clean sand,
wood ash or other materials for
their hot box, but personally I
prefer wood ash. I have been
using it for 40 years and it works
well for me. Even in the cold
weather of upstate New York,
my billets usually take about 18
hours to completely cool off.
The Tomahawk The author uses a wooden template as a guide when forging the head to
shape.
Template
I used a wooden template
as a guide while forging the
tomahawk head to shape. Here
again, after removing the hawk
head from the hot box, I will
compare its size and shape
with the template to make sure
everything is in order.
Checking for
Proper Angles of
the Head and Eye
Before I go any further, I will
The illustration shows how to check the angles of the eye section and blade
double-check all the angles of the
of the tomahawk using a right angle and a precision block.
head. As mentioned earlier, the
angles are crucial.
The accompanying picture kilter, I could still correct them grinding off the scale that
shows how to check the angles of by putting the tomahawk head developed during the forging
the eye and blade sections using back into the forge to make process. As I take the scale off
a right angle and a precision the necessary adjustments. the billet, I begin grinding the
block. I think, for me, the angles Unfortunately, if any corrections contour of the tomahawk head,
on the tomahawk shown in the are needed at this point, then the being careful to grind evenly on
accompanying photo are as close entire normalizing and annealing both sides.
as can be achieved in the forge. process must be repeated. I pay particular attention to
If any of the angles were off If all angles are true, I start the angles and contour of the
BGKFM_124-139.indd 129 10/27/08 4:30:43 PM

If the eye of the tomahawk is not at a 90-degree angle in relation to the
head, the haft will not be straight to the body of the head.
The author files the eyehole to the

desired teardrop shape.
Shown is the selected piece of wood for the haft and various sizes of drill bits.
tomahawk head as I grind the to create that shape, I start by

general shape. This leads into the drilling at least two holes. The
next step—locating the eye. hole nearest the bowl will be
much bigger than the hole closer
Locating and to the blade.
Drilling the Eye Filing out the

Once the tomahawk head is
cleaned up, I mark the location of Eyehole
the eye. I draw a centerline from Once the drilling is done, the
the blade to the bowl, and then next operation is to file the eye An alternate method for making the
mark the eye location. to the required teardrop shape. eye of the hawk is to pierce it using
Here, too, when drilling the eye, When filing out the eye, I am a drift.
I will need to watch the angles. constantly checking the contour form the teardrop-shaped eye,
If the hole is not at a 90-degree and the wall thickness. Both filing with an even, horizontal
angle in relation to the head, the sides of the eye wall should be movement and being careful
haft of the tomahawk will not be parallel to the blade and of the not to create a rocking motion.
straight. same thickness. Symmetrical Rocking motion could form a
There are quite a few choices eye wall thickness is a must in convex shape on the inside eye
as to the shape of a tomahawk order to achieve a well-balanced wall, and if so, problems are sure
eye. This particular tomahawk tomahawk. to arise later when it comes time
has a teardrop-shaped eye, and I use a half-round file to to fit the haft.
BGKFM_124-139.indd 130 10/27/08 4:30:54 PM

The eye shape is transferred to the haft. The haft is fit to the hawk with a hand file.
taken not to drill down too far

An Alternate into, and thus through the outer
Drilling the
Method for diameter of, the neck. Smoke Hole
To create the smoke hole
Punching the Eye Handcrafting lengthwise through the haft, I use
There are other methods
a handheld electric drill. I start
for creating an eye. In the a Hickory Haft the operation with a 3/16-inch-
accompanying photo, I Once the smoke hole is drilled
by-5-inch-long drill bit, followed
demonstrate an alternate method out, I begin working on the
by a bit of the same diameter,
in which I use a drift (a tool for haft. It is safe to say that the
but 12 inches long, and then I
enlarging or shaping holes) to preferred and most widely used
employ a 16-inch-long bit. I drill
pierce the eye section of a small hardwoods for tomahawk hafts
through the final 6 inches of haft
spike tomahawk. Piercing is are hickory, ash and maple.
with a handmade, forged spade
a more traditional technique For most of the presentation
bit measuring 22 1/2 inches in
and one that works very well tomahawks I make, the hafts are
length.
on wrought iron or mild steel. fashioned from gunstock-grade
This may not be the easiest
The technique is not generally curly maple. All the wood I use
way to drill the smoke hole and
recommended for high-carbon for tomahawk hafts is hand
probably not the most efficient
steels because it puts stress on selected and kiln dried.
way, but it works for me. I wish
the eye wall section. It can be First I cut a wood blank
I could hire some termites to
done, but it’s better to drill the to the size that is needed,
handle this drilling job.
eye when working with high- approximately 1 3/4 inches by 1
carbon steel—less stress on the 1/2 inches by 22 inches. I mark
steel means fewer headaches. the center of one end of the Transferring
Immediately after the eye
is formed, I begin drilling the
blank where I will start drilling
the smoke hole lengthwise
the Eye Shape
tobacco hole in the bowl. I first through the haft. Then I mark to the Haft
measure and mark the depth of the centerline along the outside Once the smoke hole is drilled,
the smoke hole. Since the smoke length of the wooden blank. The I mark the size and shape of
hole is of a much larger diameter first mark serves as a guide for the eye on the haft. I place the
than the neck, care must be where to start drilling. tomahawk head on top of the
BGKFM_124-139.indd 131 10/27/08 4:30:55 PM

Filing the
Bowl Round
This particular tomahawk
head has quite a bit of detail in
its shape and will require a lot of
handwork to make it happen.
The First step is to true up the
bowl so it is as close to round as
possible. I use a flat file for this.
The exterior of the tomahawk
bowl will be octagonal in shape,
but the final outside profile will
be filed later in the process. It is
first necessary for the entire bowl
to be round.
Filing the Neck

With masking tape, the author marks where he wants the neck to end. and Chevrons
He then marks, with permanent marker, where the chevrons and other The next step is to mark where
moldings will be. I want the neck to end. I do
this with masking tape. Using a
drilled haft, centering the eye to and tight, and that the haft
permanent marker, I then map
the smoke hole and transferring is straight and centered in
where the chevrons and other
the eye shape to the haft using a relation to the blade. This is
moldings will be. Marking where
sharp pencil. Then I turn the haft generally the rule for making
the top two chevrons will lie also
on its side and lay the hawk head any hatchet or hawk.
gives me the location for filing in
on top of it so that I can gauge
the neck.
the depth of the eye, also marking
it with the pencil.
Grinding I begin filing the neck to size,
the Haft to and to speed up the process, I

use a belt grinder to take away
Fitting the Haft Rough Shape some of the excess metal. Then
to the Head When I am satisfied with the I continue working on the neck
Before I begin fitting the haft fit and sure there is no lilt to using my hand grinder with a
to the head, I make sure all the the head, neither to the left nor 3/4-inch sanding drum. Using
guidelines I marked are correct to the right, I start shaping the a half-round file, I true up the
and precise. If everything is right, rest of the haft. Again, I use roundness and size of the neck if
then I start grinding off the excess my belt grinder to speed up the needed, leaving the neck a little
wood material to fit the haft. process. oversized for now.
Once I get close to the marked Once the general shape of the I start filing the chevrons on
lines, I stop using the grinder and haft is accomplished, I go back top of the eye, simultaneously
switch to a hand file for the final to work on the tomahawk head. forming the outside wall of the
fitting of the head. The final finish work on the haft eye. I follow the curve of the
I make sure the head fits nice will come later. inner eye wall when shaping the
BGKFM_124-139.indd 132 10/27/08 4:30:56 PM

outer wall, usually working on
the two processes in unison.
It becomes necessary to mark
the position where the outside
contour of the eye will end. This
also helps locate the line for
the eye moldings. The layout
process is a chain reaction as the
dominos fall into place.
The neck will also be defined
by an octagon shape to match the The tomahawk has two moldings, one on the top and another on the bottom
octagonal bowl. I mark out the
of the bow. Using a triangle file, the author files the two lines of the moldings.
eight, evenly spaced sides of the
octagon and file each of the eight
flats into the neck.
Filing the Bowl

Moldings
Once the octagon of the neck
takes shape then I work on the
bowl area, beginning with the
moldings for the bowl.
I mark where the moldings
will be located. The tomahawk
has two moldings, one on the top
and another on the bottom of the
bowl. Each molding is 1/4-inch
wide. I scribe the two lines of
the moldings with a triangle file,
switching to a small, round file to
The space between the two bowl moldings is where the author files the
put in a concave line in the center octagon shape of the bowl.
of the 1/4-inch space.
motion while I file in the flats of the moldings and chevrons of
Filing the Bowl the octagon. Care must also be

taken not to file into the bowl
the blade. The blade molding
under the fuller is my guide for
into an Octagon moldings. placing the blade chevrons. I use
The space in between the two a paper cutout to mark where the
bowl moldings is where I will file Filing the Blade chevrons will be and make sure
the octagonal bowl. I mark the By this time you are most likely they are the same size on both
eight, evenly spaced sidewalls to tired of reading about all the file sides. The chevrons and the blade
match the octagon shape of the work involved in shaping the are shaped simultaneously.
neck. head. My hand is also getting I mentioned the importance of
I file with a flat file again being tired, but we are almost done. the angles and measurements.
careful not to create a rocking It is time to begin working on The accompanying photo
BGKFM_124-139.indd 133 10/27/08 4:30:56 PM

illustrates why I take the extra
time and precautions when
making my tomahawks.
I inspect the tomahawk design
from each side, making sure
both sides are symmetrical and
uniform. If everything is nice and
proportionate, the result should
be a well-balanced tomahawk
head. At this point, the cutting
edge is only about 1/8-inch thick.
If everything is proportionate, the
head will stand on its 1/8-inch
The blade molding under the fuller is the author’s guide for placing the cutting edge. If the head falls to
blade chevron. He uses a paper cutout to mark where the chevrons will be the left or right, then I backtrack
and to make sure they are the same size on both sides. to figure out what is causing the
imbalance. Somewhere along the
line, things weren’t filed evenly.
Diamond-Shaped
Silver Overlays
To make the two silver
diamonds that will be overlaid
on the eye of the head, I cut the
diamond shapes from a 16-gauge
The head is finally shaped.
silver sheet and file the edges
smooth. I determine where the
diamonds will be placed on the
eye section and drill two small
holes for the eventual pinning
of the diamonds to the head. I
drill the holes through the silver
diamond and into the head.
I also make the pins from silver
and then set aside the diamonds
and the pins in a safe place.
Getting Ready for

Heat Treatment
The tomahawk head is finally
Since he is only heating one tomahawk head, the author uses a small shaped, and it’s time to begin
quenching tank situated on a firebrick. A torch is used to heat up the the heat-treating process. Heat
quenching oil to 145 degrees Fahrenheit. treating is the heart of the steel,
BGKFM_124-139.indd 134 10/27/08 4:30:57 PM

If the proportions, angle and weight
of the head are correct, it will
balance on its 1/8-inch cutting edge.
and in this case, the tomahawk.

Incorrect heat treatment will ruin
The author heats the blade from its thickest point and works toward the
the best of steels.
cutting edge.
To prepare the head for heat
treating, it must first be cleaned with a thermometer, has reached years, I know the temperature of
and free of all tooling and the right temperature, I start the steel by its color. It is best to
sanding marks. After cleaning heating the tomahawk blade. keep the room on the dark side
the head, it is ready for the heat- when performing this operation
treatment process.
The Heat-Treat in order to better see the colors in
your steel as it heats up.
Heating up Process Some people will use a magnet

I start to heat the blade from its for this purpose. If the steel still
the Oil thickest point and work towards sticks to a magnet, you are not
I start by heating up the the cutting edge. I keep turning yet at the quenching temperature.
quenching oil. Since I am heat the hawk head back and forth As soon as the magnet stops
treating only one tomahawk head, to make sure the heat is evenly grabbing onto the evenly heated
I will use my small quenching distributed in the sections where steel, it is time to do your
tank situated on a firebrick. As the hardness is required. quenching.
illustrated in the accompanying Once the blade has reached I repeat the process of
photo, I use a torch to heat the critical temperature, I submerge heating and quenching three
quenching oil to 145 degrees the head in the heated quenching times, letting the blade cool off
Fahrenheit. Once the oil, checked oil. I have done this for so many completely in the quenching oil.
BGKFM_124-139.indd 135 10/27/08 4:30:58 PM

steel sit in the preheated oven for
about half an hour before I raise
the temperature.
I first temper the blade at 450
degrees, letting the head sit in
the oven for two hours at this
temperature. I then let the head
cool off to room temperature.
Now I place the head in the
freezer and leave it overnight. The
next morning I will take the head
out of the freezer and wait for it
to reach room temperature.
I repeat the process two more
times, but for the second and
third tempering. I bring the oven
to 485 degrees. I repeat the same
Once the tomahawk head has cooled off in the quenching oil, the author two-hour cycle, again allowing
likes to see a nice, solid, evenly colored gray section where the steel has the head to cool off to room
been hardened. temperature before putting it
back into the freezer.
Next I heat treat the smoke method I use. For example, a After the last tempering cycle,
bowl using the same method throwing hawk will have different the head should be a beautiful,
I used on the blade. The eye heat-treating requirements than a uniform, spring-steel-blue color.
section will not be heat treated pipe hawk or hatchet. The heat-treating process seems
and will remain much softer than to work well on the steels used
in this particular tomahawk,
the bowl and blade. The eye is the
section that will take up most of
Cleaning Up resulting in a tough but easy-to
Now I remove the scale created
the shock when the hawk is used sharpen cutting tool.
during the heat-treat process. It
to cut firewood or for throwing
should be an extremely thin layer
practice.
Once the tomahawk head has
of scale that is easily removed. I Laying out the
cooled off in the quenching oil,
usually use 320-grit sandpaper for
the job, and most of the time, the
Haft Design
I like to see a nice, solid, evenly Once the tomahawk head is
scale will wipe right off.
colored gray section where the heat treated, I install the roughly
Once the head is cleaned, I
steel has been hardened. This is ground haft and true up its final
polish it up slightly to get it ready
a good indication that the heat shape. Then I remove the head so
for tempering.
treatment has gone well so far. I can begin filing, scraping and
Thd gray section is also brittle sanding the haft to remove all the
and will need to be tempered. Tempered Head tool marks from it. The haft will
Such heat treatment is called For the tempering process, I be sanded with 400-grit paper
a differential heat treat. There are use my wife’s brand new digital before it is ready for decorative
many methods of obtaining a oven. I start the tempering carving.
differential heat treat. The style process by preheating the oven I lay out the design that will
of tomahawk determines what to 200 degrees F, and I let the be carved into the haft. The
BGKFM_124-139.indd 136 10/27/08 4:30:59 PM

original 1793 tomahawk has
been described as having a floral
design in the haft, but to me it
looks more like scrollwork.
I draw evenly spaced circles
graduating in size down the
length of the tapered haft. The
circles form the basis for the
design layout. Once the required To create a nice, shiny tomahawk head, the author uses 320-grit
circles are penciled in, I connect sandpaper to remove the scale created during the heat-treat process.
all of them and start drawing the
scroll designs.
This design is then transferred
to the opposite side of the haft,
matching it up as closely as
possible. Once the layout is
complete, I begin to carve it in.
Carving Scrolls
into the Haft After the last tempering cycle, the head should be a beautiful, uniform
I use a Foredom brand air
spring-steel-blue color.
pencil grinder to carve the
pattern into the wood. Most of the burrs I use are carbide brand Danish oil and wait at
people are more familiar with because they last much longer least six hours before again using
Foredom flex shaft grinders that than other high-carbon steel triple-zero steel wool to buff the
run off electric and are often used burrs. I also use diamond burrs haft to a nice hand-rubbed finish.
by jewelers. This is not what I for cleanup.
use for carving; I only use air- Once the carving is complete, I The Smoke Plug
powered pencil grinders, and I sand the haft with 400-grit paper The smoke plug is inserted into
generally use three grinders of to get rid of the loose fibers and smoke hole on the fore end of
different speeds—a 100,000 rpm prepare the wood for stain. I the haft and is removed when the
grinder, a 60,000 rpm grinder and always sand in the same direction smoke hole needs cleaning.
a 30,000 rpm grinder. Each speed as the wood grain. Then, after Traditionally, smoke plugs
excels at a different application. wiping away any sawdust, I apply were fashioned from wood or
The air-powered tools run cool all the first coat of stain and allow antler, but for this piece I chose
day and the hose is more flexible the haft to dry overnight. a damascus smoke plug to match
than the flex shaft equivalents, I sand the stained haft, again the tomahawk head. I forged a
and air-powered pencil grinders removing any loose fibers 1/2-inch-round by 2 1/2-inch-long
seem to be much easier on my brought up by the stain. I repeat damascus billet. Then, with files,
hands. the process two more times. I fashioned it into a 3/8-inch ball
The carving is done using a After applying the last stain, I use with a 1 1/4-inch tapered stem. I
1/16-inch, round-ball carbide 600-grit sandpaper followed by filed the stem into a wood screw
burr. Burrs are available in triple-zero steel wool to bring out so that there is less of a chance
several sizes and shapes. Most a little luster. I then apply Watco that the smoke plug will be lost.
BGKFM_124-139.indd 137 10/27/08 4:30:59 PM

creates the cutting edge of you have to be very cautious,
The Acid Etch the hawk, being careful not to taking all safety measures to
Acid etching of the tomahawk
overheat the steel and, thus, ruin avoid having accidents. Wear
head and smoke plug is necessary
the heat treatment. Overheating goggles, a face shield and rubber
to bring out, enhance and
the steel will ruin the hardness of gloves in case, for some reason,
accentuate the damascus pattern.
the cutting edge. there would be a splash or spill.
Before I start etching the
I polish out the head, removing Make sure when you work
tomahawk head, I grind and
all scratches, tool marks and the with acid that you have enough
blend the convex grind that
tempering color. The head has ventilation.
to be scratch free and highly Acid can negatively react when
polished. Any small marks from it comes in contact with metal-
files or sandpaper will show up producing hydrogen, causing
when you start etching. The it to explode when air hits it.
scratches will show up on top of My suggestion before you work
your damascus design and the with any type of acid is to read
more you etch, the deeper each the label and take whatever
scratch or tool mark will get. precautions you have to take.
Once the head is highly polished, I submerge the clean tomahawk
it must be cleaned free of any head carefully into the acid and
polishing rouge or dirt. leave it for a two-minute soaking
The author forged a damascus I use a hydrochloric acid. When time.
smoke plug for the tomahawk. working with any type of acid, Then I remove the head from
the acid and submerge it into
a solution that neutralizes the
acid. The solution is plain water
oversaturated with baking soda.
Once the acid is neutralized, I dry
the head with 1200-grit paper.
Using a sanding block, I sand
the head lightly, and I repeat the
process of dipping it in acid and
The author draws evenly spaced circles that graduate in size down the neutralizing it four times.
length of the tapered haft. The circles form the basis for the floral-designed, I completely polish the head
or scrollwork, layout. and start all over again until I
get the depth desired to enhance
the look of the damascus pattern.
The etching process usually takes
about two hours.
It is now time to install the two
silver diamond overlays fashioned
earlier and set aside in a safe
place. The diamond overlays
are pinned to secure them to
the head. Then the pins are
The author carves the scrolls into the haft. sanded down flush with the silver
BGKFM_124-139.indd 138 10/27/08 4:31:00 PM

diamond overlays until they are
no longer visible.
The next and last step before
bluing the head is to run the
cutting edge on a belt grinder,
using 9-micron-grit paper to
create a keen cutting edge.
Hot Gun Bluing

At this point, the head is ready
for gun bluing. Before anybody The tomahawk head is
begins hot bluing, it is important acid etched to bring out
that they understand the whole the damascus pattern.
process and the hazardous
materials with which they work
water to maintain the
Before the head and smoke
temperature. Be careful
plug are placed into the bluing
while adding water. Do
solution, they must be high
not just pour the water
polished if you desire a glossy
in because you will see
finish. The better the polish, the The head is hot gun blued.
Mount St. Helens wake
nicer the bluing will appear. Make
up. I use a soup ladle to slowly
sure all your parts are clean and
add small amounts of water as
free of polishing rouge, oil and I secure the head to the haft with
gently and evenly as possible to
even fingerprints. Do not use a small wooden wedge. First I
the solution.
kerosene, paint thinner, gasoline place the haft into the tomahawk
After 15 or 20 minute, I take
or alcohol to clean the steel eye. The fit of the head on the
the head out of the solution and
because such fluids might leave haft is already tight, but to secure
immediately submerge it in cold
a residue, contaminating the it, a small wooden wedge is
water, scrubbing it with a soft
surface of the metal. hammered into place at the end
brush to clean the excess solution
Once the head and smoke of the haft, slightly spreading the
from the steel.
plug are clean, I heat up the haft in the eye.
If I do not have a nice, solid,
bluing solution. The hot-bluing Lastly, the smoke plug is
even bluing color, I put the head
solution I use is Brownells Inc. screwed into place and the
back into the solution for other
Oxynate No. 7. The solution is tomahawk is finished.
treatment.
heated up to 192 degrees, with I tip my hat to the original
Next I dry the parts and put
the temperature checked by two maker of the 1793 tomahawk.
them in an oil bath, making
thermometers. Once the solution Even though he is long gone,
sure the oil is covering the parts
reaches the required temperature, through his work he is not
completely. I soak the head in the
I place the hawk head in the forgotten. Forging and creating
oil for about 30 minutes.
bluing solution for 15 to 20 something out of raw material
minutes. provides much personal
The temperature has to remain Final Assembly satisfaction, but when a piece
at 192 degrees for the entire The final assembly of a such as this one survives
15 to 20 minutes. You might tomahawk only takes a few generations, it becomes a part of
need to add some cold distilled minutes. On this particular hawk, history and our heritage.
BGKFM_124-139.indd 139 10/27/08 4:31:00 PM

The Art and Science of
Blade Grinding
The author instructs on flat- and double-hollow-
grinding knife blades By R.J. Martin
All photos by Jim Cooper
I
t has been 30 years since I first picked up a bar of steel
and applied it to a moving abrasive belt in hopes of
ending up with something that resembled a knife blade.
I don’t remember that first knife, but I remember the feeling
of fascination and satisfaction that accompanied the
process of grinding the blade.
After blade grinding, the author

(Piotr Makuch photo)
is ready for a bowl of his favorite

tobacco and a tasty beverage!
R.J. Martin’s Rampage fixed blade features a radical grind. The popularity instruction was not possible for
of this grind has led to two successful folder designs, and the author plans me.
to make a longer version of the fixed blade in the near future. It just goes to Fortunately, there were books
show what can happen when you push the envelope in blade grinding. and I read every one I could
find. I studied the pictures—they
The magical process of of knife making was still in were most helpful, as the actual
transforming a rectangular its infancy. There were only a process of grinding is not an easy
bar of steel into an edged tool handful of knifemakers, none thing to describe. I am indebted
by grinding away what doesn’t of whom lived near me. If there to David Boye and Robert W.
belong—that is the essence of had been some, it wouldn’t have Loveless because these two men
knife making. mattered much because I couldn’t penned the words and provided
When I was a high school kid drive yet! So, the possibility the pictures for the book “How to
in the 1970’s, I started making of visiting a knifemaker and Make Knives” that started me on
knives. Back then, the field learning by watching or by my way.
BGKFM_140-159.indd 140 10/27/08 4:32:10 PM

I hope that in the following Carrie and Paul) are incredible hands will become much more
paragraphs I can provide for you, people who have assisted my durable. In the meantime, dunk
the reader, as much insight into career greatly over the past 20 your blade after every pass, and
the process of blade grinding as years and have earned my loyalty. remember the saying “It feels
these talented individuals did for I will be using the BM2 to profile, good when the pain stops!”
me. I am privileged to have Jim hollow grind and taper a tang. I
Cooper behind the camera lens in can also flat grind with a Bader, Attitude
this effort, and I am sure that his but I prefer to use a Sears 6 x 48 Grinding blades is not easy.
talents will greatly help to clarify for flat grinding. You can’t actually see what is
the meaning of my words. happening between the blade and
Safety the belt while you’re grinding.
Equipment I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention You have to see it in your mind.
If you’re going to grind blades, the need for eye protection. That’s right—blade grinding is
you’ve got to have some sort The glasses I wear (although all about visualization! You feel
of grinder! If you plan to grind not stylish!) are prescription each pass, and then you look at
dozens or hundreds of blades safety glasses of the best quality the grind and see what happened.
and make a living at it, you available. I have an industrial This visualization is the feedback.
need a well thought-out piece of dust collection system in my Eventually (and it may take
machinery capable of performing shop, so I can grind without months or years), your mind
all the tasks required quickly, a respirator, but without such will become so connected to the
accurately and with a minimum a system, a good respirator feelings in your hands and body
of operator stress. In my shop, should be worn. If not a full face that you will know precisely what
that machine is a Bader BM2 belt respirator, a good welding fume is happening to your blade as
sander. Actually, I employ four respirator that covers the nose you’re grinding. You will develop
BM2’s and the larger Space Saver and mouth is advised. muscle memory, and through
machine that takes a longer belt You’ll also want a fire experience, you will know exactly
and allows me to sit down while extinguisher close at hand. how to manipulate the blade to
I grind. Grinding produces a considerable change or correct the appearance
You don’t need five machines; amount of small, hot chips. A of the grind, whether moving the
one will do it all if you equip bucket of clean water for dipping belt up the blade, correcting the
it with the needed accessories. your work into is also essential. plunge line or thinning out the
I’ll point out the accessories as You’ll notice in the accompanying edge.
they are used in the grinding of photos that I don’t wear gloves. This takes time, so, don’t be
the working blade for this book Many knifemakers do, but I feel frustrated if your first efforts are
chapter. I should add that there safer without them, and I have not successful. Experience is the
are several brands or belt grinders a much better feel for what I am best teacher, but there are some
available and each has its loyal doing when working barehanded. things you can do to help speed
following among knifemakers. A coarse belt snagging my glove up the process. The first is to
I have never considered buying and jamming my fingers between concentrate. You have to immerse
another brand, primarily because the work rest and a moving belt is your mind in the process at hand
I haven’t found any grinding task not my idea of fun. If you choose and pay attention. Listen to your
that I could not accomplish easily to grind as I do, you’ll probably grinder! It is talking to you!
with my Bader, and it seems to burn your fingers a few times in Second, maintain a positive
offer the best value. the beginning. After a while, your attitude. You have to convince
The folks at Bader (Dan, Doug, fingers will toughen up and your yourself that when you step up
BLADE GRINDING ╭ 141
BGKFM_140-159.indd 141 10/27/08 4:32:12 PM

to your grinder, good things are But, other folks will know if have focused on grinding a blade
going to happen. Visualize the the grind line on one side of the where both sides are symmetric,
finished grind in your mind. blade does not match the grind even if the appearance of the
If you can’t see it before you on the other. I hear from new grind line isn’t exactly what they
start, it’s not going to happen! knifemakers all the time who say envisioned.
Third, don’t get too hung up on they got one side of their blade
achieving the precise grind line ground perfectly, but ruined Scope
you envision. Instead, work on the blade because the second I will be performing four
achieving symmetry and flow. If side came out differently and specific grinding operations:
the finished grind doesn’t have they went too far trying to even Profiling, hollow grinding, flat
exactly the sweep you wanted, no up the grind lines. The flaw is grinding and tang tapering. If you
one but you is going to know. in their approach; they should can master these four operations,
you can grind virtually any knife
blade. Grinding a blade’s profile
is the starting point for anyone
practicing the stock-removal
method of knifemaking.
Hollow grinds and flat grinds
are the most common blade
grinds used on knives. If you
know how to flat grind, you
can achieve a convex grind by
finishing your grind on a slack
belt. Knowing how to taper a
tang will allow you to dress up
any full-tang fixed blade knife you
want to make.
R.J. Martin’s Kwaiken model showcases a chisel-ground blade. A chisel

Advice for the
grind is a one-sided grind that eliminates the problem of maintaining Beginner
symmetry in blade grinding. There are a few things you can
do to help yourself be successful
as you get started:
1. Use simple carbon steel, like
grade O-1 tool steel. Spend the
extra pennies and get it precision
ground. This will help you start
with a flat, clean bar of steel that
is a constant thickness;
2. Start with a simple design.
A nice, 3-to-4-inch-long blade
Using a 10-inch length of A-2 tool steel, the author scribes the blade outline hunting knife pattern is fine. The
onto a blade blank using a template made from scrap G-10 and a carbide- grind techniques I demonstrate
tipped scriber. for my Manta Ray will work
BGKFM_140-159.indd 142 10/27/08 4:32:13 PM

nicely on such a blade. Just
omit the top grind until you’re
comfortable trying it;
3. Work in batches. It is much
better to perform the same
operation on four or five blade
blanks in succession than it is
to grind one blank from start
to finish. Remember, muscle
memory is all about repetitive
actions. You’ll find that, by the
third blade, you’re body will be
getting into the swing of grinding; The author uses a 10-inch contact wheel to remove the excess steel, starting
4. Light your grinder well. Light near the tip-end of the primary bevel. He works from left to right, using his
is key to seeing what is happening left thumb to push the steel against the belt, and his right hand to steer the
as you grind; and work so that the scribe line is kept parallel to the face of the contact wheel.
5. Wear boots, if you can, to
give yourself a solid, balanced
base.
Profiling a Chisel-
Ground Blade
I’m starting with a chisel
grind for a few reasons. The
chisel grind is a one-sided grind,
which eliminates the problem of
symmetry. This is a big help for
the beginner, allowing him or her
It’s a simple matter of working repeatedly from the handle to the tip,
to concentrate on one bevel. The
pressing lightly on the belt and keeping the blade blank moving until you
majority of my Japanese-style see the scribe line disappear. Then, move on to the tip bevel.
knives are chisel ground.
There is a choice of edge styles
that comes with a chisel grind.
The “standard edge” exhibits a
blade that is ground down to, say,
.02 inch, and a small, secondary
bevel continues from that point,
making up the cutting edge. The
bevel of a “zero grind,” on the
other hand, is reduced to “zero
thickness,” and thus, becomes
the cutting edge. While the “zero
grind” is more complicated to
grind, because the entire bevel The author rounds both corners of the butt end of the handle.
BGKFM_140-159.indd 143 10/27/08 4:32:14 PM

handle to the tip, pressing lightly
and keeping the blank moving
until I see that scribed line
disappear. Then, I move on to the
tip bevel.
At this point, I change over to
a new, 220-grit belt and go over
the edge profile. I work lightly to
remove the 60-grit scratches and
even up the profile. I shift my
attention to the butt end of the
handle and round both corners
smoothly. The chisel-ground
blade of my “Kwaiken” model is
now profiled.
The intended blade grind is now fully defined on the blade blank.
Profiling is not a difficult task
must taper precisely to nothing should be square with the sides of compared to grinding bevels.
along the entire cutting edge, it your blade blank. However, it does demonstrate
is the grind I prefer because of Using a 10-inch contact wheel some key concepts that apply to
its cutting ability. It is the grind I and a used, 60-grit 3M 967 belt, all grinding:
will demonstrate. I remove the excess material, 1. Start your grinding at the
Using a 10-inch length of A-2 starting near the tip-end of the area that has the most material to
tool steel, 1 1/4 inches wide by primary bevel where I have the be removed’
1/4-inch thick, I scribe the blade most material to remove. I work 2. Establish an even line as you
outline onto a blade blank using from left to right, using my left approach your final result;
a template made from scrap G-10 thumb to push the steel against 3. Work “downhill” whenever
and a carbide-tipped scriber.ww the belt and my right hand to possible so that you are moving
The shape of the knife fits steer the work so that the scribed the blade blank towards the
nicely on this stock size, and line is kept parallel to the face of grinder as the pass progresses;
there is not much material to the contact wheel. Note in the and
remove to achieve the finished accompanying photo how my left 4. Keep your work moving,
profile. Keep this idea in mind as index finger is bracing against the using less pressure as you finish.
you design a knife. The closer you bar that supports the work rest.
match your knife’s shape to your As I profile, I remove steel until Grinding the
stock size, the less work (and
waste) you’ll have in profiling.
I am about .04 inch away from
the scribed line. The portion of
Bevel of the
I have one machine set up with the blade blank that will become Kwaiken Model
the work rest at the proper height the primary cutting edge now has I coat the blade with layout
for profiling so that the center of the shape I want but is uniformly fluid, allowing it to dry before
the stock lines up with the center oversized. I shift my attention scribing my upper grind line
of the wheel. You’ll need to take to the tip, and remove material .90 inch from the edge using a
a minute to check your results as until I am about .04 inch off the digital caliper. I also add a scribe
you start profiling to be sure that scribed line. line that defines the start of the
your work rest is at the proper From here, it’s simply a matter plunge area, 5 1/4 inches from
height. The profile of your knife of working repeatedly from the the tip of the blade blank. Then,
BGKFM_140-159.indd 144 10/27/08 4:32:15 PM

Note how the author supports the back of the blade on the edge of the The author adjusts the belt tracking
work rest and applies pressure with his right thumb. so that about 1/8-inch of the belt
hangs over the left side of the wheel.
I freehand scribe a line that For now, I just want to get most you want to brace the work well,
connects the plunge to the top of the material off, so, I leave the and for safety purposes, ease it
grind line, just for reference. The tip about 0.05-inch thick, with into the belt. After a pass or two,
intended blade grind is now fully the grind running about one-third the tip bevel looks like the one
defined on the blade blank. of the way up the blank. Note in illustrated in the accompanying
Using the same, worn 60-grit the accompanying photo how photo. Cool the tip off in your
belt I profiled with, I rough in I support the back of the blade water bucket before proceeding.
the tip grind. This grind will be on the edge of the work rest and With a new, 60-grit belt in place
completed after heat treat, using apply pressure with my right on the 10-inch wheel, it’s time
a slack belt to produce the convex thumb. to rough in the primary bevel.
bevel that adds both strength and Whenever you put the tip of a Remember, I plan to finish the
style to the finished knife. knife against the belt in this way, bevel on the 6 x 48 flat sander, so
As the author pulls the blade from right to left, he needs the blank to move There is always a bit more pressure
freely across the face of the belt. To achieve this, his left hand must be on the left side of the belt than the
slightly forward of his right hand. Otherwise the belt will dig into the steel right.
and hang up, keeping him from completing the pass.
BGKFM_140-159.indd 145 10/27/08 4:32:16 PM

this effort is intended to set up
the bevel for finishing. I need to
leave enough meat on the blade
blank so that all the hollow grind
marks will clean up when I flat
grind.
Before I start grinding, I take
a minute to break down the stiff,
left-hand edge of the belt using
a steel rod, and adjust the belt
tracking so that about 1/8-inch
of belt hangs over the left side of
the wheel. This will help ensure a
smooth, gouge-free plunge area.
The grind line is being pushed up towards the scribed line, and the edge is
Beginning about 1/8-inch
still plenty thick.
forward of the scribed line that
defines the start of the plunge,
I begin the rough grind. My left
hand firmly grips the blank and is
responsible for setting the angle
that the edge is presented to the
belt. My right hand grasps the tip.
This is a right-to-left pass, so
the blade is pressed into the left
side of the wheel face. The right
side of the belt is barely touching
the steel. As I pull the blade from
The author uses a piece of round bar to break the edge of the belt down right to left, I need the blank to
and adjust the belt tracking so that about 1/4-inch of the belt hangs over move freely across the face of the
the platen. belt.
To achieve this free movement,
the left hand must be slightly
forward of the right hand.
Otherwise, the belt will dig into
the steel and hang up, keeping me
from completing the pass.
As I start the third pass, I can
(hopefully) see the light area
at the right side of the wheel,
indicating the gap that exists
between the blank and the wheel.
As the pass is started, only the left
side of the belt contacts the work.
More contact area means that greater force must be applied to maintain Immediately, as I start to move
the edge pressure. the blank from right to left, my
BGKFM_140-159.indd 146 10/27/08 4:32:18 PM

to make a pass from where the
blade moves from right to left.
This is how all passes on the right
side of a blade are made. If you
are grinding the other side of the
blank, the reverse applies. The
right hand is forward of the left
and the blade is moved from left
Illustrated is how the plunge area is worked using the rolled edge of the belt. to right.
The second relationship is that
of the blade blank to the wheel,
in a vertical direction. When
grinding a blade edge up, you
are grinding the edge towards a
fixed goal—either a scribed line
or the opposite edge of the blank
in the case of the chisel-ground
Kwaiken.
You can see this goal all the
time as you grind. But, you
are also grinding towards
another goal, which is the
top of the grind line. You
can’t ever see this directly
as you grind, as it is always
hiding behind the blade. As I said
The edge is approximately .02-inch thick, and the grind is looking good.
earlier, the only way to check
right hand moves the tip forward relationships that require an your progress towards this goal is
so that the blank is pressing explanation. to look at the blade after the pass
across the entire face of the The first is the positional is made.
belt. There is always a bit more relationship between the left and So, you must pay attention to
pressure on the left side of the right hands. A good analogy is a the edge thickness as you grind,
belt than the right, but not much. child’s seesaw. Imagine a seesaw and pay attention to the grind
tipped on its side. The blade height after each grinding pass.
The Finesse of blank represents the board of the

seesaw. Your left hand holds one
The desired result, or course, is
to have your edge at the proper
Grinding end of the board and your right thickness just as your grind line
If you’re getting the idea that hand holds the other. reaches the desired height and
there is a lot of finesse involved The area of contact between appearance. Eventually, you will
in grinding, you’re right. There the blade and the abrasive belt learn to feel your way, and you
is. You can spend a lifetime is the fulcrum of the seesaw. will know how you have changed
discovering the techniques Now, if your left hand is forward your grind line with each pass
that work for you as your skills of your right as you grind (like before you even look at it.
progress. But, to get you started when you make a right-hand turn My approach to this aspect of
on the right path, there at two on a bicycle) you’re in position grinding is purely pragmatic. I
BGKFM_140-159.indd 147 10/27/08 4:32:20 PM

For a right-hand chisel grind, I
want the belt coming towards the
knife’s edge, moving away from
me. Once again, I use a piece of
round bar to break the edge of
the belt down and adjust the belt
tracking so that about 1/4-inch of
the belt hangs over the platen.
At this point, I take a few
passes to clean up the hollow-
grind scratches and create a new,
Because the edge of the Kwaiken knife model is gently curved, it flat surface. I apply a great deal of
is necessary to lift the handle of the blade as the grind progresses pressure here with the thumbs of
toward the tip in order to keep the bevel in contact with the belt. both my right and left hands.
The primary blade bevel is uniform and disappears right at the edge of the knife.
only concerned about working

towards the final edge thickness,
The Feared
and my goal is to obtain a nice, Flat Grind
uniform (but thick) edge. Flat grinding is considerably
Then, I can make subsequent harder on the operator than
passes, applying torque to the hollow grinding. The belt is
blank, twisting the back of the supported by a steel platen,
knife into the belt, so that I push which offers no cushioning like
the grind line up the blank. As the rubber-coated contact wheel.
you can see in the accompanying So, there is a loss of feel to be
photo, this is where I am with dealt with in flat grinding. Also,
the chisel-ground blade blank. the contact area between blade
The grind line is being pushed up and belt is greater, meaning
A few extra passes are required to
towards the scribed line, and the that you are putting a lot less
bring the edge to “zero thickness”
edge is still plenty thick. pressure on the belt with the
in the plunge area.
It is now time to switch over to same force applied to the blank.
begin by tipping the edge of the the 6 x 48 flat sander using a new, (Pressure=Force/Area)
knife into the belt, working only 60-grit 3M 977 belt. My machine More contact area means that
to reduce stock at the knife’s has a reversing switch on it, so, greater force must be applied
edge for the first few passes. I’m I can run it in either direction. to maintain the same pressure.
BGKFM_140-159.indd 148 10/27/08 4:32:21 PM

Note how the author uses the After three or four light passes on a 240-grit belt, the 120-grit scratches
middle finger of his left hand to are gone and the blade starts to look good.
trap the back end of the blade,
preventing it from being pulled
from under his fingers by the
moving belt.
So, in this portion of the grind,
just focus on managing the
edge thickness and achieving a
smooth, flowing top grind that
approaches your scribed line.
In the accompanying photo,
you can see how the plunge area
is worked using the rolled edge
of the belt. Even for experienced
makers, the plunge area is
difficult to grind. If your early The author creates a secondary grind along the spine of the blade. He uses
results don’t look as good as a 10-inch wheel and holds the spine of the blade at a 45-degree angle to
mine, don’t worry. Just keep the wheel, being careful to grind on the portion of the belt that is below the
center of the wheel.
practicing. After three or four
passes, I have established the it in an instant if I overheat it. smoother grinding experience.
proper pre-heat-treat geometry. Even though I grind with bare Being careful to grind evenly,
The edge is approximately .02- hands, I’m far enough away from I take the edge down until it
inch thick, and the grind line the edge of the knife, where the becomes extremely thin. This
is looking good. The tip will heat will build first. I force myself pushes the grind line up to
be shaped further after heat to dunk the blade after every its final height. The only way
treatment. grinding pass. to master the zero grind is to
After heat treatment, it’s time to I regrind the blade on a new, practice!
regrind the Kwaiken blade. From 120-grit 3M 967 belt. This is a My best advice is to have
this point on, I must remember nice belt for flat platen grinding patience and keep that belt sharp.
that this is a heat treated and because 3M removes the abrasive Belts don’t have a long life in flat
tempered blank and I can ruin in the splice area, making for a grinding. Because the surface is
BGKFM_140-159.indd 149 10/27/08 4:32:22 PM

is gently curved, it is necessary
to lift the handle of the blade as
the grind progresses towards the
tip in order to keep the bevel in
contact with the belt.
As the tip section of the blade
is ground, you will notice that the
material is removed somewhat
faster. The area of contact drops
down to about 1 inch wide from
about 2 inches directly in front of
the plunge line.
I usually find that a few extra
passes are required to bring the
Standing next to the grinder, with his face quite close to the belt, the author
edge to zero thickness in the
applies the tip to the belt, angling the handle up quite high so that most of
plunge area. This is a tricky part
the grinding occurs at the edge.
of the grind. If you stop short,
flat, it reduces the degree that the So, plan on burning through a you’ll have an ugly, unsharpened
sharp abrasive points are exposed few belts here, particularly if you part of the blade. Grind too far,
to your work. Plus, you’re left your edge on the thick side. or at the wrong angle, and you’ll
working hardened steel, which, in I like to use a brand-new belt for create a divot just in front of the
combination with the hammering the final passes; it will enhance plunge area that will ruin the
effect caused by the belt splice the quality of a flat grind. aesthetics of the knife.
and the rigid platen, means your If you refer back to the photo
belt is working hard. of the finished Kwaiken, you’ll The Feel of Steel
notice that the edge of the knife is You need a good feel for what is
straight for the first few inches in happening between the belt and
front of the plunge area, then the blank to avoid little, flat, uneven
edge curves gracefully upward. faceted areas that can occur.
Because the edge of the Kwaiken So, work carefully to bring this
part of the edge down to zero
thickness. When completed, the
primary bevel is uniform and
disappears right at the edge of the
knife.
I take a minute to flatten both
sides of the blank on the 120-grit
belt. Note in the accompanying
photo how I use the middle finger
of my left hand to trap the back
end of the blade, preventing it
from being pulled from under my
fingers by the moving belt.
The author’s Kwaiken knife exhibits a fine edge along the tip that meets the If you’re wondering how I get
primary cutting edge gracefully. the blade to that position on the
BGKFM_140-159.indd 150 10/27/08 4:32:34 PM

a fair bit of unnecessary weight
off of the blade and improves the
penetrating ability of the blade.
Shaping the Tip

Because I want a convex tip
on my Kwaiken knife model
(for strength), I use a slack belt
setup and press the tip of the
blade on the moving belt. This
operation requires a 3M 707E
belt, because the belt has the
just the right amount of flex. The
grits are 120 for roughing and
220 for finishing, and I run the
R.J. Martin’s Manta Ray knife showcases a double-hollow-ground blade belts slowly. Standing next to
(hollow ground on both sides). the machine, with my face quite
belt, I feed it from the end of the

sander, holding the tip between
the index finger and thumb of my
right hand. Once my left hand is
in place, I relax my left forearm,
ease up on the finger pressure
and allow the belt to pull the
blade free from my right hand as
it moves onto the platen. Then, I
reposition my right hand so I can
apply a uniform, light downward
pressure on the blank. To get the
After scribing the outline of the knife on a piece of precision-ground steel,
blade off the belt, the process is
the author uses the rolled edge of a grinding belt, overhanging the belt, to
reversed. It’s more complicated to
get into the finger notches and the contoured areas under the handle
explain than it is to do!
After switching to a new 240- I create a relief, or secondary close to the belt, I apply the tip to
grit 3M 967 belt, I repeat the grind, along the top, or spine, of the abrasive, angling the handle
grinding on both sides of the the blade on the 10-inch wheel, up quite high so that most of the
blade blank and then regrind the holding the spine of the knife at grinding occurs at the edge.
primary bevel once more, making a 45-degree angle to the wheel The tip must be moved back
my passes at a slightly different and being careful to grind on the and forth, and if I press too hard,
angle so I can see those 120-grit portion of the belt that is below the belt will jump to the side and
scratches. After three or four light the center of the wheel. I rough bad things will happen. I wish I
passes, they should all be gone, this grind in with a 60-grit belt could tell you an easier way to do
and the blade starts to look good. and then finish it off on a sharp this; there probably is one, but
At this point, the work on the 6 x 220-grit belt. This relief is both I’ve always done it this way with
48 sander is complete. aesthetic and practical. It takes great results.
BGKFM_140-159.indd 151 10/27/08 4:32:36 PM

1 1/4 inches wide by .20 inches
thick. The profiling setup is the
same as for the Kwaiken. I make
a lot more use of the rolled-edge
overhanging belt here because of
the finger notches and contouring
on the underside of the knife
handle.
By using a light tough, and
keeping the blank moving to
prevent gouging, I can produce a
Being right handed, it’s easiest for the author to establish a nice grind line nice, smooth radius.
on the left side of the blade, and by the time he’s ready to switch to the I scribe both sides of the blank
other side, he’s into the swing of the grind.
with the upper grind line, offset
zero-thickness edge along the .80 inches from the edge of the
entire tip that meets the primary blank. I also scribe two lines
edge gracefully. You now have a to define the edge location and
finished product! thickness on both the bottom and
top of the blade blank. Because
Do the Double- the blank is .20-inch thick, I

scribe each line .09-inch in from
Hollow Grind each side of the blank so that the
Now that flat grinding has been reference lines for the edge are
explained, it’s time to move on .02-inch apart. I will be stopping
to a double-hollow-ground blade the rough grind at the outside of
(hollow ground on both sides). these lines, leaving the edge about
My Manta Ray knife model fits .025-inch thick at the time of heat
the bill. treatment.
You can see that this is a The first step in grinding the
small knife with a fairly straight bevels is to chamfer the edge of
edge, which simplifies the grind. the blank along both the primary
But the top edge will test your and top edge, on both sides of the
abilities; it is narrow. This means blank. A worn, 60-grit belt is all
you won’t have as much feel as that is required. I use an angle
you do with the primary grind. of about 45 degrees and remove
Also, the handle shape will allow about .08-inch of material, being
you to work on improving your sure that I stop short of the edge
profiling ability. scribe lines!
Once the grinding approaches the
This step will extend the life
scribed lines, the thickness of the
remaining blade stock is even. Profiling the of the new 60-grit belt that I’ll
be using for rough grinding. The
You need to pay attention to Manta Ray Blank S30V steel is considerably more
what is happening, adjusting your I have scribed the outline of taxing on belts than the A-2 used
angle and pressure accordingly. the knife on a piece of precision- for the Kwaiken, and there’s no
The final result is (hopefully) a ground CPM S30V steel that is point in shearing all the abrasive
BGKFM_140-159.indd 152 10/27/08 4:32:38 PM

The author’s fingers of his right hand The author checks to make sure the edge is centered on the blade and is
steady the work against the rest as the correct thickness.
the rough grinding is started.
grit off a new belt before getting of the work rest, changing the
any real use out of it. way the bevel would contact the
I install a new 3M 967 60- wheel. This could have a bad
grit belt and begin grinding the effect on the grind line!
primary bevels. When grinding I use the work rest and the
a double-hollow-ground blade, I work rest support bar to brace
like to start on the left side of the my fingers, generally the third,
blade because I’m right handed. fourth and pinkie fingers of
Grinding this side is easier for whichever hand is holding the
me because my right hand is tip of the blade. This leaves my
“smarter” than my left. thumb and index finger to hold Notice how the author’s right hand
the blade blank. is forward of his left hand at the
It’s easier for me to establish
start of the grinding pass.
a nice grind line on this side, For the most part, my other
and by the time I’m ready to hand is holding the handle of
switch over and grind the right- the knife and is responsible for
hand bevel, I’m into the swing of pulling the blade sideways during
the grind and things tend to go the grinding pass. My thumbs are
smoothly. responsible for pressing the blank
I hollow grind with a work rest, into the belt.
although I almost never use the
work rest to support the spine
of the blade. In the case of the
The Hands Work
Manta Ray, the small protrusion in Unison
on top of the handle would cause The hands must work in unison
problems if it contacted the during a grinding pass. Having Illustrated here is how the author’s
work rest. As I would progress the machine at the correct height hands have changed position by
towards the tip of the blade, that really assists hand motions. I the time he reaches the tip of the
protrusion would fall off the side like to have the top of my work blade.
BGKFM_140-159.indd 153 10/27/08 4:32:41 PM

edge is curved and drops severely
from the back of the knife.
The second is that the grind
becomes exceedingly narrow as it
approaches the tip.
Since I sharpen this edge, I
need it to be thin and centered.
Otherwise, the sharpening bevel
would become wider than the
grind, and that just wouldn’t
be right. It wouldn’t look right,
either.
In regrinding the blade, the author uses a 220-grit belt, running it slowly to All through this chapter, I
keep the heat down, thus enabling him to get his hands closer to the area have been talking to you about
being ground. feeling the grind as it happens.
It should not be a surprise that
the geometry of the grind is a big
factor in how much feel it will
give you as you grind it. A deep,
wide hollow grind on a thick
piece of steel will hold the contact
wheel in place solidly as you
grind it.
As the wheel size is reduced,
for a given stock thickness, the
feel will improve. Coarse belts
The author’s visor is less than an inch from the moving belt and he’s provide less feel than fine belts,
oblivious to the lights, power cords and the presence of the photographer,
and a sharp, new belt will provide
Jim Cooper.
the best feel in any given grit.
rest at the same height as my of the blank. Again, the fingers of Even switching to a softer contact
palms when I’m standing in front the right hand steady the work wheel will improve the feel.
of the machine and holding my against the rest as the rough Of course, it works the other
forearms parallel to the floor grinding is started. way, too. Grinding a narrow bevel
(palms down) with my shoulders I’ve checked the grind height using a large diameter wheel is a
relaxed. This keeps me from and symmetry already. Now, it’s guarantee of having little feel of
hunching over, which is hard on time to be sure that the edge is what is happening. In situations
my back, and allows both the centered on the blade and is the like that, it is helpful to slow the
wrist and elbow joints to have correct thickness. belt speed way down and switch
their full range of motion. Everything looks good, so I over to a soft wheel.
After a few, even passes, the begin the top grind. The top A sharp belt is a necessity,
grind line looks good. I grind grind on the Manta Ray is a as well. I happen to like soft
close to the scribed lines, and tricky grind. If you go back and wheels—the one I have been
the thickness of the remaining look at the picture of the finished using all along is a 50-Durometer
material is even. It’s time to knife, you’ll notice a couple of wheel. I would not recommend
switch over to the right-hand side things. The first is that the top this wheel to anyone who isn’t
BGKFM_140-159.indd 154 10/27/08 4:32:42 PM

In tapering the tang of the blade, the author creates a trough that will run up the length of the tang. He makes sure
the trough is centered, which will make things easier later.
experienced. A 70-Durometer hand forward. See, in the related

wheel is plenty soft. photo, how my hands have
I install a nice, new 60-grit belt changed position by the time I
on the wheel and turn the speed reach the extreme tip of the knife.
way down. I am using the rest I consider the rough grind
to support the blade directly in complete when the upper bevel is
this step. In the accompanying established, even though it might
picture, the photographer, not be perfect. You can see in the
Cooper, captured a great side accompanying photo how the
view of the start of the grinding line formed by the intersection of
pass. the upper and lower grinds does
not run perfectly to the tip, but is
Notice how the trough is not
A Two-Hand Pass about 1/8-inch above the tip. This
centered.
Notice how the right hand is the best approach to take when
is forward of the left hand at grinding knives with top bevels. Coarse scratches act as stress
the start of the pass. Because By the time I regrind the bevels, risers, and if I hardened the
of the curvature and drop, it is that line will move directly in- blade now, the 60-grit scratches
necessary to continuously pull the line with the tip, which is where I would impair the heat treatment
right hand back and move the left want it. by promoting warping, and
BGKFM_140-159.indd 155 10/27/08 4:32:43 PM

reveal any missed scratches that
would be a lot of work to remove
in a hardened blade. The 220-grit
belt will produce a nice, crisp
grind line so I can easily see if I
have things even.
I like the 3M 707 220-grit belt
for regrinding the blade. It is
aggressive and free cutting, and
has soft edges that will yield to
the curves in the plunge area. I
To correct a trough that is not centered, the author applies a bit of torque regrind the primary bevels first,
to the tang using his left hand. This will force the lower part of the tang into using a light touch.
the wheel and bring the trough back on track. I run the belt slowly to keep the
heat down. I can get my hands
closer to the area being ground,
and I have a few more seconds to
apply pressure before my thumb
burns. Two good passes and the
results look almost perfect.
Notice what happens to the
shadow as it approaches the edge
of the knife in the plunge area.
There is a small, uneven area that
must be cleaned up. So, I make
another pass and correct it.
The author continues to push the trough towards the front of the tang.
Then, I flip the blade around
weaken the blade by affecting the and regrind the primary bevel on
microstructure, creating invisible the other side. I check the height
areas in the blade that say “Break of the grind lines, comparing
along the dotted line!” both sides against the scribed
Did you know that, if glass reference lines, and against
could be produced without any each other to ensure that the
scratches on its surface, it would grinds have the same, sweeping
be 10,000 times stronger than appearance.
“normal” glass? Now, steel is not Once I refine the top grinds, I’m
nearly as notch sensitive as glass, home free. In the accompanying
but the idea is the same. picture on page 154, I’m totally
Before I heat treat the blade, immersed in the process. My
I must remove all the coarse visor is less than 1 inch from the
scratches. I have found that a moving belt, and I am oblivious
When both sides are roughed in, 220-grit finish is the ideal pre- to the lights, power cords and
you should have two troughs that heat-treat finish. It is aggressive the presence of the photographer
are equidistant from the scribe enough to remove 60-grit as he hovers over my shoulder,
lines. scratches and fine enough to getting this awesome shot!
BGKFM_140-159.indd 156 10/27/08 4:32:45 PM

Notice the gap between the rest of Notice how the gap between the tang and the belt becomes smaller.
the tang and the belt. The author Eventually it disappears.
only works the last inch of the tang
at this point.
It has been a long day, but, at eventually, run up the full length
this moment I am in the zone and of the tang. If I can start off with
there is nothing in my head but the trough centered, I’ll have an
the sound of the grinder and the easy time of things later.
belief that the grind is going to be I continue to push the trough
perfect … nirvana up the tang, keeping the bottom
of it straight and ensuring it is
Tapering the centered on the tang. The goal

is to make the trough as deep The author’s scribe lines are .02-
Blade Tang as possible, but not so deep that inch apart, and the tang is just .07-
inch thick.
With the regrinding complete, the edges won’t clean up when I
it’s time to taper the tang of the switch over to the flat platen. apply a bit of torque to the tang
blade. Normally, the Manta Ray At this point, I think I’m done. using my left hand. This will
does not get a tapered tang, but I Remember I said that I’d never force the lower part of the tang
want to show you how it’s done. tapered a Manta Ray tang before? into the wheel and bring the
Tang tapering is a straightforward I’m reluctant to make the trough trough back on track.
process. I scribe two reference deeper, because I don’t want to Remember, when you start any
lines on the tang, just like I did ruin this blade. You’ll see later grind, your first pass provides
for the main bevels. that I could have removed more you no feel, so you need to go
I add a scribe line across the material. easy and immediately check your
blade that defines the start of the I repeat the process on results. After this, you’ll have
tapered tang. I will remove most the other face of the tang. I a mental image to work from,
of the metal using the 10-inch deliberately started the trough off and your brain will be able to
contact wheel because it is faster center, so I could show you how visualize what is happening as
and easier than doing it on the to correct this common problem. you make corrections on the next
flat platen. Notice in the accompanying pass. Yes, I knew that the trough
With the lead-in bevel ground, photo how the trough is not was centered after the second
I create a trough that will, centered. On the next pass, I pass before I looked at it!
BGKFM_140-159.indd 157 10/27/08 4:32:47 PM

I continue to push the trough horizontal. I clean the platen and the belt as much as possible. I
towards the front of the tang. the glass with Acetone, and apply have found that excessive tension
When both sides are roughed a lengthwise puddle of medium- tends to stretch the belt and make
in, you should have two troughs viscosity adhesive down the it slightly concave. This applies
that are equidistant from your center of the platen. especially to fine-grit belts.
scribe lines. Notice in the I float the glass on this puddle, With a new 3M 967 60-grit belt
accompanying photo how I and the adhesive spreads right installed, I begin flattening the
stopped short of the scribe lines. out to the edge of the glass. Then, tang surface. I hold the tip of the
I’m going to quench this blade I spray the kicker (aerosol curing blade between my right thumb
between aluminum plates, so I agent) all around the edges and and index finger, and use my left
want to leave some meat on the watch it cure the adhesive all the thumb or index finger to press the
tang so it will stay dead straight way underneath the glass. After bottom end of the tang against
when I quench it. about two minutes, I mount the the belt. You can use a push stick
If you’re sending your blades platen arm back on the machine here if you like. Notice in the
out for heat treat, you can and adjust the platen so that it related photo the gap between the
proceed to the next step and just pushes the belt out slightly. majority of the tang and the belt.
flatten the tang before heat You want the platen to be slightly I am only working the last inch of
treatment. At this point, I heat forward of the wheels (forward the tang at this point
treat the blade. meaning towards you, the Once I have a flat surface at
operator, in this case). the end of the tang, I “roll” the
Flat Grinding the There are new, ceramic

materials that guys use for this
surface forward by moving my
right hand forward, bringing
Tang same purpose, but from what I more of the tang in contact with
I have one BM2 set up with have heard, I’ll stick with my $1 the belt. This will cause the flats
a small drive wheel and a flat piece of plate glass. Eventually, to progress towards the front of
platen. Some 20 years ago, Dan the glass will crack, but it’s a the tang. Notice in the related
Johnson from Stephen Bader simple matter of knocking the photos how the gap between
told me to bond plate glass to broken glass off with a hammer the tang and the belt becomes
the platen to ensure a dead-flat and bonding on another piece. smaller. Eventually, it will
surface. I accomplish this by I don’t crank up the belt disappear.
clamping the platen arm in a tension too high because I want In the accompanying photo,
vise so that the platen surface is to preserve the flat surface of I’m pointing to the forward edge
of the flats to illustrate that I
am checking them to be sure
that they stay even with each
other as I grind. My right hand
twists the blade as necessary to
work whichever side needs more
pressure to keep things even.
I stop just short of the forward
scribe line and repeat the
grinding process on the other
side of the tang. You can see in
the accompanying photo that
The finished blade is ready for a handle. things are even by looking at the
BGKFM_140-159.indd 158 10/27/08 4:32:48 PM

knows no boundaries. Integrating
the grind into the design of a
knife is where the science enters
the picture.
The way a knife is ground
affects the way it works as a tool.
The edge thickness you select, the
height of the bevel, the shape of
the bevel (flat, convex or hollow),
the tip geometry and the shape
and location of the plunge area
affect the way the knife performs
in use.
As your skills develop, you will
gain the ability to control all of
R.J. Martin’s grinding style has led him toward sweeping grind lines that
parallel the edge shape. He also prefers a grind line that sweeps up from these things and manipulate them
the plunge area. as you see fit to produce a grind
that works on whatever type
butt end of the tang. My scribe corrections that are required. of knife you’re making. This is
lines are .02-inch apart from each The accompanying photo where the fun begins!
other and the tang is just .07-inch shows a finished blade ready for The great knife makers manage
thick. a handle. I am ready for a bowl to produce a variety of knives,
With the heavy work done, all of my favorite tobacco and a tasty while maintaining a consistent
that remains is to go back over beverage! look that makes their knives
the surfaces with a new, fresh 3M readily identifiable and unique.
707E 120-grit belt. In this step,
you may find out that the rough
Taking it to the I can think of at least 10 makers
whose knives I can identify at a
ground-tang is not quite as flat as Next Level distance, just by looking at the
it looks. Here is the reason: The Looking back on this chapter, I shape and flow of the grind lines.
abrasive belt is 2 inches wide. The am amazed at how many words This does not happen overnight,
tang is about 1 1/4 inches wide. and photos were required to so be patient.
Grinding on the centerline of the document the grinding of just There are also knife makers
belt, the center of the belt was two blades! Jim took over 150 whose work I can identify, at
used hard, but the edges were photos in the eight hours he spent a distance, by what I consider
never used. The belt is concave!! shooting this effort, and, I hope to be the lack of flow in their
The new, 120-grit belt is used that the 60 I selected completely grinds. But, that’s what keeps this
to refine the surface and make explain the grinding processes I business interesting. A grind I do
it flat. The tapered tang is now described. not appreciate may be your idea
complete. The truth is that what I have of a perfect grind. My style has
To finish the blade, I regrind shown you here is just the led me towards sweeping grind
the bevels and the blade flats beginning. I hope you can master lines that parallel the edge shape.
using a new 3M 707E 220-grit the techniques shown here, and I also prefer a grind line that
belt. Now that the blade is use your imagination to push the sweeps up from the plunge area.
hardened, it is easier to feel the envelope as your skills develop. Happy grinding, and Stay
grind lines and make the small Grinding is an art form that Sharp!
BGKFM_140-159.indd 159 10/27/08 4:32:49 PM

CONTACTS
If you have a question for one of the contributors to “BLADE’s Guide to
Making Knives,” please contact them using the following information:
Rick Dunkerley,
POB 582,
Seeley Lake, MT 59868;
phone: 406-677-5496;
email: natv2mt@blackfoot.net
Allen Elishewitz,
POB 3059,
Canyon Lake, TX 78133;
phone: 830-899-5356;
email: allen@elishewitzknives.com
Don Fogg,
40 Alma Rd.,
Jasper, AL 35501-8813;
phone: 205-483-0822;
email: dfogg@dfoggknives.com
Wayne Goddard,
473 Durham Ave.,
Eugene, OR 97404;
phone: 541-689-8098;
email: wgoddard44@comcast.net
John Lewis Jensen,

dba Magnus Design Studio,
POB 60547,
Pasadena, CA 91116;
phone: 626-449-1148;
email: john@jensenknives.com, or
MagnusDesign@webtv.net Or, contact
F+W Media, Inc.,
R.J. Martin, Joe Szilaski, “BLADE’s Guide to Making Knives,”
51 Bramblewood St., 29 Carroll Dr., attn: Joe Kertzman,
Bridgewater, MA 02324; Wappingers Falls, NY 12590; 700 E. State St., Iola, WI 54990;
phone: 508-279-0682; phone: 845-297-5397; phone: 715-445-2214, Ext. 13384;
email: rjmartinknives@comcast.net email: joe@szilaski.com email: Joe.Kertzman@fwmedia.com
The book editor and contributors are busy, so please be patient in awaiting a response if leaving a message,
emailing or writing a letter. Thank you.
BGKFM_160.indd 160 10/28/08 10:42:29 AM

Blade Building
BLADE ’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

Made Easy
T
he world’s finest knifemakers
®
learned to ply their trade through
trial and error. They honed their skills with
blood, sweat and tears. Never before has there been a fully
illustrated, all-color, step-by-step book on how to make
knives ... until now! And, as a bonus, two chapters are
dedicated to sword and tomahawk making.
Novice knifemakers, knife enthusiasts and shop

junkies of the world, this is the book of your dreams!
DON FOGG
• Learn to grind blades
• Fashion handles the easy way
• Forge steel like the pros
• Fashion bolsters and guards
• Fit and finish those bladed beauties
Chapters are penned by some of the world’s greatest

knifemakers, including Wayne Goddard, Allen Elishewitz, ALLEN ELISHEWITZ JOHN LEWIS JENSEN
Rick Dunkerley, Don Fogg, R.J. Martin, Joe Szilaski and

John Lewis Jensen.

Seeing is believing, and with over 400 step-by-step
illustrations guiding you along the way to making your
first or finest knife, this book is a must-have for any knife
enthusiast’s library. Have fun, and be careful!
WAYNE GODDARD JOE SZILASKI
KERTZMAN
RICK DUNKERLEY R.J. MARTIN
US $24.99
BGKFM (CAN $29.99)
ISBN-13: 978-0-89689-240-8
ISBN-10: 0-89689-240-9
52699
UPC
EAN
0 74962 00240 2 9 780896 892408

cnVlZ2VyAEj8cMkEMTAuNAI4MAExBkVB
JUYrVyBQdWJsaWNhdGlvbnMsIEluYyAo
SW9sYSBkaXZpc2lvbikPR3JlZ29yeSBL
Ti0xMw05NzgwODk2ODkyNDA4AA==
FnL1
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Blade Building Made Easy: Don Fogg

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Blade Building

BLADE ’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

Novice knifemakers, knife enthusiasts and shop

Chapters are penned by some of the world’s greatest

Rick Dunkerley, Don Fogg, R.J. Martin, Joe Szilaski and

PointSeven Studios photo

RICK DUNKERLEY R.J. MARTIN

0 74962 00240 2 9 780896 892408

BGKFM_FullcvrNEW.indd 1 3/5/10 12:19:07 PM

Our toll-free number to place an order or obtain

All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or

Library of Congress Control Number: 2005922622

Designed by Kara Grundman

BGKFM_NewPG2.indd 2 2/24/10 3:48:38 PM

6 It’s High Time to Fashion a High-Tech Folder

26 Making the Everyday Working Knife

66 His Forge Burns Hot for Mosaic Damascus

86 Dedicated to the Study of Sword Making

104 Building the Bolsters of “Alchemy”

124 Methods of Tomahawk Making are Timeless

140 The Art and Science of Blade Grinding

160 How to Contact the Knifemakers

BGKFM_1-5.indd 3 10/27/08 4:52:12 PM

T his is a ﬁrst anywhere. It’s the forum of

4 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_1-5.indd 4 10/27/08 4:52:15 PM

Rick Dunkerley’s rocker-release folding dagger

BGKFM_1-5.indd 5 10/27/08 4:52:22 PM

6 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_6-25.indd 6 10/27/08 4:08:25 PM

BGKFM_6-25.indd 7 10/27/08 4:08:26 PM

8 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_6-25.indd 8 10/27/08 4:08:29 PM

BGKFM_6-25.indd 9 10/27/08 4:08:31 PM

tang area of the blade to a .2850-

10 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_6-25.indd 10 10/27/08 4:08:32 PM

The liners are drilled and tapped.

grinder to de-burr and ﬂatten

BGKFM_6-25.indd 11 10/27/08 4:08:34 PM

12 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_6-25.indd 12 10/27/08 4:08:35 PM

contoured to a 600-grit ﬁnish. I

BGKFM_6-25.indd 13 10/27/08 4:08:36 PM

14 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_6-25.indd 14 10/27/08 4:08:37 PM

I remove the anvil that comes

BGKFM_6-25.indd 15 10/27/08 4:08:40 PM

Proﬁle the edge of the blade with a

16 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_6-25.indd 16 10/27/08 4:09:53 PM

blade. I will be using is a 60-

BGKFM_6-25.indd 17 10/27/08 4:09:55 PM

18 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_6-25.indd 18 10/27/08 4:09:57 PM

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20 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_6-25.indd 20 10/27/08 4:10:00 PM

BGKFM_6-25.indd 21 10/27/08 4:10:01 PM

with the blade. I slip a pivot pin

22 ╮ BLADE’S GUIDE TO MAKING KNIVES

BGKFM_6-25.indd 22 10/27/08 4:10:02 PM

Allen splits a 400-grit belt and runs