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Industrial Engineering PDF
Industrial Engineering PDF
Industrial Engineering
KSA-Technopak
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page No
1. Industrial Engineering Scope & Significance 4
4.1. Merchandising
4.2. Production Planning
4.3. Production
4.4. Maintenance
4.5. Quality
4.6. Human Resource
4.7. Production Follow Up
6. Method Study 16
6.1. The Method Study ‘7 Step’ Procedure
6.2. The Principles of Motion Economy
6.2.1. The Principles of Motion Economy as related to workplace
6.2.2. The Principles of Motion Economy as related to design of
tools & equipments
6.3. Methods Engineering
6.3.1. Tools for methods engineering
6.3.2. Specific Sewing Room Methods Approaches
6.4. Checklist for Improving Garment Operations
6.4.1. Layout & Relation to other operations
6.4.2. Handling of Garments & Parts
6.4.3. Machines, Equipments etc.
6.4.4. Sewing Operation
6.4.5. General
6.5. Good Sewing methods Checklist – Description of Motion
6.6. Engineering Methods Improvement
6.6.1. Big Methods
8. Performance Development 41
8.1. Capacity Study
8.1.1. What is Capacity Study
8.1.2. How to make a Capacity Study
8.2. Follow-Up
8.2.1. Bundle by bundle follow-up
8.2.2. Other forms of follow-up
8.2.3. Uses of Operator Follow-Up
Annexure
Annexure 1:- Time Study Sheet 47
Annexure 2:- Bundle by bundle follow up sheet
Annexure 3:- Bundle Diagnosis Sheet
Annexure 4:- Filled format of Operation Bulletin
Annexure 5:- Filled format of methods description
Annexure 6:- Capacity Study Sheet
The truth is that engineers and engineering mean many things to many people. In our
discussion on engineering, we want to talk about the branch of engineering known as
Industrial Engineering and, more specifically, Industrial Engineering as it relates to the
apparel industry. Before we do this, however, let's see if we can define some basic terms
and concepts that will make our discussion more meaningful.
Engineering is difficult to boil down into a simple definition, but for our purpose here let's
use the following:
Engineering - a science by which the properties of matter and the sources of energy in
nature are made useful to man.
Now let's go one step farther and define Industrial Engineering. Let's define Industrial
Engineering this way:
Industrial Engineering: the engineering approach applied to all factors, including the
human factor, involved in the production and distribution of products and services.
Now that we have arrived at a definition of Industrial Engineering, let's talk about what
things are done by an Industrial Engineer. Let's refer to these as the scope of this job.
1. Study, measure, and improve the way individuals perform their jobs.
2. Design and install a better system of coordinating the jobs assigned to individuals into
a group effort.
3. Specify, predict, and evaluate results obtained.
From this we can, perhaps, oversimplify things for the purpose of understanding
Now let's go one step farther and define Industrial Engineering. Everybody will agree
that a simple definition of Industrial Engineering is:
The two steps of finding the best way to do a job and then timing to find out how long it
takes, are referred to as Motion Study and Time Study. Engineers are taught to do the
Motion Study first, as any time study data on incorrect motions is not of much value.
2. Costing: By knowing how long it takes to perform a job, the total time and cost
for manufacturing a product can be determined. Determine sales price.
3. Manpower Planning: By knowing how many units one person can produce it
can be determined how many people are needed to produce a given volume.
These are only a few of the common uses of Motion and Time Study. As we can now
see, the information obtained is useful far beyond just setting quotas and piece rates.
As we have already mentioned, Motion and Time Study is the most common function
associated with an apparel engineer. But what are some of his other duties?
Let's list some of the other things we might find an apparel engineer doing:
1. Plant Layout
The location of machines and equipment to provide the best work flow.
5. Operator Performance
Responsibility for operators achieving expected performance levels.
6. Operator Training
Responsibility for program of training new employees.
8. Cutting Room
Engineering jobs in cutting room for incentive plan. Also might include program to
increase material utilisation.
9. Quality Control
Design program to measure and control quality of workmanship in plant.
10. Distribution
Engineer warehouse and shipping facilities.
12. Others
Plant safety, maintenance, supplies.
1. Work Simplification
One of the main benefits of almost any engineering effort is that it makes work simpler to
perform. This holds true for operators, supervisors, and top management. When an
engineer analyses any area of work, he does so with the thought in mind.
Do not be misled about into thinking, however, that work simplification means people
always will be doing less work. They may, in fact, do more work but within the same
amount of time as before. Because work has been simplified, people's ability to produce
is increased.
2. Increased Productivity
The ability to produce more within the same amount of time is a company's insurance for
survival. This ability means that the company can now accept more work. It means that
costs can be lowered by avoiding overtime. It means that fixed costs can be spread out
over more units of production. It means that profits Improve.
3. Increased Profits
4. Increased Earnings
Most engineering projects not only increase company profits, but also result in higher
earnings for employees. Most companies are willing, and in fact eager, to share with its
employees the financial gains that are available through engineering.
The roles and responsibilities of the industrial engineering department are not just limited
to timing operators and making operation bulletins as it is only a part of the job. The I.E
function can contribute significantly to improvement in working and productivity of almost
all the departments of apparel manufacturing. Let us discuss few of the activities of
various sections of apparel manufacturing which can be associated with industrial
engineering:
4.1 Merchandising
a) Product Analysis-
• Determine the optimum method of construction to achieve required
finished product efficiently.
• Establish the operation sequence (Operation bulletin).
• Specify the equipment type and work aids to be used
Operation Bulletin is an important tool used for product analysis. Operation bulletin is a
documented form of sequence of operations in a product. It contains all the information
about the machine required and the total no. of operations, total no. of operator required.
Operation bulletin contains the standard times for each operation. Operation bulletin
also contains some other parameters as follows:
It should cover all operations that can be directly related to single unit of a product e.g.
The operation bulletin is a fundamental planning tool used for many functions such as
• Capacity planning
• Methods engineering
• Line planning
• Performance measurement
• Manpower planning
• Investment appraisal
• Incentive payment
• Factory loading
The operation Bulletin should be developed at the earlier stage of product development.
b) Costing-
• The first stage is to calculate the SMV of the garment
• To calculate the production cost for that particular garment by
multiplying the total SMV of the garment with the average cost incurred
by the factory to produce one SMV.
Production planning is defined as, “the technique of foreseeing or picturing ahead, every
step in along series of separate operations, each step to be taken in the right place, of
Production planning provide a line for effective, balanced flow of product, incorporating
line and individual (operation) productivity standards.
The end product of production planning efforts is the formulation of production plans.
The plans are formulated in light of specified future period. The plans are to be
implemented in the light of the estimated cost and agreed policies
• Plant capacity can be calculated by I.E dept so that planning can book order as per
the available capacity.
• I.E can assist in better planning by helping in better style allocation to different units
or lines.
• I.E can formulate an efficiency/performance build-up for a particular style based upon
the work content or past performance. This can inform the planning dept that a
particular line will take how many days to produce a specific quantity of a style. This
will help the planning dept to plan the availability of resources and material in
advance.
4.3 Production
Industrial engineering is a key part of a production process. One of the basic functions of
engineering is to get facts. These facts may be in form of a time study, the engineer has
made or cost report the engineer has designed. So we can say that the basic need for
engineering is the need for management information.
Work-in-Progress (WIP) control-
WIP is made up of all garments and their parts that are not completely finished. For
example a bundle of shirts that has everything attached but has no bottom hem. There
are two cost areas that can be reduced if WIP is controlled:
• Investment in inventory- Inventory is money invested in raw materials. When we
don’t move the goods through the plant quickly we are affecting cash flow directly.
• Ability to reduce the production cycle- By having low inventory between operations,
garments usually have less waiting time and go through the production cycle in less
time. Large inventory levels between operations keeps goods waiting longer to be
processed. This increases the overall throughput time.
Proper maintenance leads to better capacity utilisation of same asset, avoiding thus the
investment in addition facilities. So far industries have a tendency to neglect
maintenance function, thinking it be a not so important job, however necessary. It has
been taken just for granted. Plant maintenance is important and inevitable service
function of an efficient production system. It helps in maintaining and increasing the
operational efficiency of plant facilities and thus contributes of the revenue by reducing
the operating cost and increasing the quality of quality of the production
4.5 Quality
Quality is an asset, which may be offered to the potential customer of a product. There
are two aspects of quality, which contribute to the ultimate quality of the product. Quality
of design is the first aspect, which depends on the type of materials used, specs
specified by the buyer, method of production, knowledge of the design and skill level of
the person. The degree to which this quality is achieved in production that is the quality
of conformance is the second aspect.
Industrial Engineering can help converting quality specifications into technical
parameters to ensure that quality requirements are met with during the manufacturing
process. I.E helps in selecting the equipments and method of the job so as the final
product conforms to the specifications.
a. Manpower Planning- I.E can calculate the manpower required to perform a specific
job at a certain performance level.
Once the work content of any job is analyzed by I.E dept, the next step is to find out
the resources required to complete that job. This principle can be applied
successfully especially on the production floor where work content of each job is
measured using time study techniques.
The manpower can also be calculated as per the capacity of the plant using standard
ratios like Man to Machine ratio. The number of people for a factory having x number
of machines can be fixed through this ratio (South Asia standard is 1.8 : 1).
b. Skill Matrix- Skill matrix refers to the database of available worker skill in the factory.
The workers’ skill is analyzed on different jobs and based upon his/her performance
on a particular job a grade is given. This grade defines the level of performance that
operator can achieve on that specific job.
"Follow up" means that someone "checks and Stays with" something until the desired
results have been achieved. Many worthwhile plans and projects have failed because
someone did not follow up. So for the purposes of this training, follow up means to stay
on top of something until the desired results are achieved."
Perhaps the most common use of follow up (at least by engineers) is to prove a new
quota. In other words, the quota will be proved if the operator performs well when
compared to the new quota. Very often operators have a psychological resistance to
change. It is essential to get the operators to overcome this psychological barrier, and
that can be done through follow up and showing the operators that changes can be
made satisfactorily.
c. Spot Troubles
The product engineering lab is the heart of all research and development works in
the apparel manufacturing. The product engineering lab caters to all departments
with special emphasis on production department to provide low cost measures to
improve the overall working or to provide solution to any problem in specific.
1. To study all forthcoming styles and analyse the sequence of operation suggested by
industrial engineer to check for any improvement in the equipments, process flow,
sequence of operations, folders & attachments, work aids for achieving better
productivity & quality with low cost of production.
2. To coordinate with engineers working on floor to discuss the problems faced during
production and deviation in the suggested and actual results and to provide timely
solutions for these problems.
3. To work on continuous improvement program for developing new methods,
folders/attachments, work aids.
4. To get involved in the product during the sampling stage itself to suggest better
manufacturing techniques and to anticipate the potential troubles that could come
during production. Product engineering lab should suggest a solution for these
troubles as in some case approval from merchandiser or buyer is required to change
the construction and seam/stitch types.
5. To work closely with product development cell on converting the designing attributes
into engineering attributes
6. Product engineering lab should also suggest solution to quality issues.
7. The lab should keep a track of latest machineries and advancement in the field of
apparel manufacturing and suggest new machines and production techniques for
efficient production
8. The industrial engineer in the Product Engineering lab should be able to allocate the
requirements on resources and also advise the production planning on the possible
targets which can be achieved – taking into account the past performance on
previous styles.
Industrial Engineering, which is often substituted by the term Work Study has 2
fundamental parts
Work Study
First Then
Productivity Gain
In this course we will cover Method Study first and then Work measurement - The ‘how
to’ and then the ‘How long’
2 Objectives
Define
The Workplace
Finally, remember the big picture. All methods improvements have a cost, but some cost
far more than others
It’s free!!!!!
1. There should be a definite and fixed place for all tools and materials.
2. Tools, materials and controls should be located close in and directly in front of the
operator. Boxes for parts as in the elastic and tabs example, label holders on the
machine head and turning attachments between machine head and the operator on
the edge of the table are examples. Tables to the left of the needle are often best
cut away to allow trucks to be moved as near as possible to the needle.
3. Gravity feed bins and containers should be used to deliver material close to the point
of use.
a. Gravity feed bins for pieces such as hooks and eyes, zipper slides, buttons,
etc.
5. Materials and tools should be located to permit the best sequence of motions, for
example:
a. Right angled layout of tandem presses with disposal rail between them and
pick-up opposite the disposal with room for operator to turn and move in a
straight line between the two.
6. Provision should be made for adequate conditions for seeing. Good illumination is
the first requirement for satisfactory visual perception. This is a specialist subject on
its own but good fluorescent general lighting and needle lights are commonly
accepted practice in sewing rooms.
7. The height of the workplace and the chair should be arranged so that alternate sitting
and standing at work is easily possible. This is not generally possible on sewing
operations but inspection tables and other manual operations can be set at the
correct height (1" to 3" below elbow for alternate sitting and standing).
8. A chair of the type and height to permit good posture should be provided for every
operator; example:
1. The hands should be relieved of all work that can be done more advantageously by a
jig, a fixture, or a foot operated device; example:
4. Where each finger performs some specific movement, such as in typewriting, the
load should be distributed in accordance with the capacities of the fingers; example:
a. The forefinger is the strongest and finger controls such as steam controls on
irons and solenoid actuators are best positioned so that they are in fact
operated by the forefinger.
6. Levers, crossbars and hand wheels should be located in such a position that the
operator can manipulate them with the least change in body position and with the
greatest mechanical advantage. Ibis principle applies particularly to the design of
machines and one can think of many controls which do not obey this rule, such as
reverse levers. Incidentally, there are now available foot and elbow operated
reverse levers which show that the principle is in fact being applied as machine
design improves.
For purposes of this discussion we shall assume the sewing room design is correct and
that we have selected the best machine for each individual operation in the sewing
room.
Before considering specific methods for a job, a series of fundamental questions should
be asked about the operation.
Once these fundamental questions have been resolved, detailed methods engineering
can begin. In this regard, there are several basic industrial engineering tools which are
often helpful.
a. Process Charting
Once we have formally analysed the basic motions involved, it is possible to apply the
laws of Motion Economy. These rules have been researched extensively by Professor
Ralph M. Barnes of the University of California. Since approximately 80%
of typical operation time in sewing involves handling to and from the machine, it is
critical that the basic motions used are sound.
An application of principles 1 and 3 would be the pick up of a pocket and facing one
with each hand simultaneously.
The law states the lowest classification is usually preferred since it requires the least
amount of time and effort, and produces less fatigue. An example of the use of this
principle involves picking up of a front from overhead shelf. This effectively reduces
motion class to (3) versus class (5).
d. Precision
Another technique is to reduce precision in the required finger motions by use of such
devices as edge guides and label dispensers as well as sewing tolerances of the stitch
line.
Having discussed the general industrial engineering methods tools relevant to sewing
room methods analysis, we would now like to discuss some specific considerations for
the apparel workplace.
This can be to the side near or front of machine. The reason is to get the work closer
to the needle and reduce the class of motion required. An example would be a clamp
truck brought right up to needle where the left end of table has been cut off flush with
the end of machine bed.
b. Raising of Machine
On some jobs raising the table level is effective. This permits maximum use of a
waterfall dispose. It also permits the operator to work from mobile devices such as a
clamp truck or rolling racks. An example would be final ticket tacking to tail of coat
hanging on rolling rack and after final press.
These are work aids which are not available from an equipment supplier such as a
specially designed ticket holder. In many cases they will reduce the precision required
in the finger motion.
Bundle handling and clip and stack elements can often be eliminated by leaving work
in a sewn chain between operations in a chute or mobile cart. Fly serging (in trousers)
might be an example.
f. Table Cut-Out
Sometimes a hole can be cut in the table top so that work can be slid into a sunken
box for disposal. An example would be closing front pockets on pants.
h. Disposal Configuration
This should be traced from operation to operation to insure that an advantage can be
gained by disposing in a particular configuration for the next operation.
Many operators will unconsciously re-grasp the material rather than move straight to
the needle. This can add significantly to the time required.
k. Simultaneous Motions
Where precision is not required during the sewing element, it is often possible to snap
thread and dispose to rear while sewing.
An example is a foot activated scissors knife to cut binding tape on dress bottoms.
Summary
The preceding comments have shown that there are fundamental industrial engineering
principles which when translated into specific apparel methods techniques reduce cycle
requirements and operator fatigue.
Many companies spend a lot of time looking for machines which will reduce cost in the
sewing room. This is proper; however, there is often an even greater potential to be
gained from common sense methods improvements. Of course, this means getting out
on the floor and working with and training sewing machine operators and too often this is
avoided. There is nothing more impressive than to walk through a sewing room where
operators are employing good fundamental methods. It usually means that the company
has a proper sense of priority on how their direct labour RUPEES are being spent.
(1) Would it simplify work if this operation were performed sooner or later relative to
others?
(2) Is this operation best located relative to preceding and succeeding operations?
(3) Is this operation absolutely necessary (consider design changes that might
eliminate it)?
(4) Would it be less work if this job were combined with others? Or subdivided itself
(5) Are parts, tools, and equipment located near as possible to where needed?
(6) Are garment parts and bundle best side up, also best side toward operator?
(9) Is place for disposal convenient and bench, horse, rod, or truck as advisable and
located where best suited for purpose?
(10) Could workplace be made more convenient by cutting off side or rear of table or
widening it? Would more table in front of machine assist (often true on long
runs)?
(1) Are parts picked up ready for use without change of grasp?
(2) Are all possible folding and positioning done as work is moved to location?
(5) Is jerk of garment for disposal used to break threads at same time?
(6) Could small items be hopper-fed or in containers where slid off projecting lip (as
buttons)?
(8) Would chutes between operators assist (line style) or is bundle handling
preferable?
(9) Are special bundle ties worthwhile? Can bundles be started out and passed along
without tying?
(1) Would needle feed, regular feed, or walking foot machine be better?
(3) Would flatbed, off-arm, up-arm, post machine, tacker, button or buttonhole
(possibly used as tacker) serger or combination seamer and serger make any part
of job easier?
(5) Would automatic thread cutter as one sews off material assist? Or cutter on rear of
foot? Or ring cutter on operator's finger?
(7) Would guides or stops or marks on machine or table assist in locating or indicating
distances to sew?
(10) Would having parts with edges creased on a folding machine pay? Edges
hemmed before sewing on?
(11) Can operator run several machines of this or other type together?
(12) Would compressed air operation (as on presses), hydraulic or solenoid operated
controls assist?
(1) Does operator do all possible folding, thread breaks, picking up next pieces, etc.,
as sewing?
(2) Has operator started sewing at best point for ease, fewest thread breaks, most
accurate placement, etc.?
(3) Can operator eliminate any thread breaks, as turning over parts and sewing other
side without breaking thread?
(6) Should operator run all pieces to bind and then cut apart?
(8) Could cutting or thread breaks be eliminated or better be done by later operators?
(9) Are best types of needles and thread used? Ready-wound bobbins pay?
6.4.5 General
(3) Are operators trained to work smoothly, avoiding nervous, fidgety motions?
(4) Can part of inspection be done during other operations? Should amount be
reduced or increased? Should part be done in process or all at completion?
Would percentage check be sufficient?
(7) Are sufficient utility operators available to compensate for normal absenteeism?
(9) Is training program adequate to see that improved methods are put into practice
and kept there?
(12) Would a stationary or movable clamp reduce bundle or garment handling time?
III. SEW
(A) Retain original alignment of parts while sewing.
(B) Resume sewing after start without pause (Full Speed)
(C) Quick turns while sewing.
(D) Continuous and full speed sewing
(E) Turn needle up using power pedal.
(F) Push finished part ahead while sewing
IV. DISPOSE
(A) Dispose by throwing
(B) Dispose without looking
(C) Can auto cutter and stacker be used
There are two separate areas of sewing methods that can be considered in any program
of methods improvement for lack of better terms they are called big methods and little
methods.
Big Methods are the machines, attachments, work aids, table alterations, etc. that can
improve an operation. This type of methods improvement is normally associated with the
engineering function.
Little Methods are the ways the operator handles work, the way she controls the
machine while sewing, the way she disposes, etc. This is everyone's responsibility and
especially the supervisor's responsibility.
Both big methods and little methods are important. In some cases new machinery can
double the previous output of units, but on the other hand, the operator's handling and
positioning of work is gauged to represent about 80 percent of most sewing operations.
So what are called little methods are actually a kg part of the job cycle.
In summary, both methods are important and both must be constantly attended to In
order to insure maximum productivity from each job.
A great amount of detail is not necessary here, but it will be beneficial to mention some
of the trends in sewing equipment and methods.
1. Automatic Machines
Buttonholers
Buttonsewers
Pocket Setters (Shirts)
Contour Seamers
Profile Stitching (Cuffs, Collars)
Automatic Hemming
Label Sewers
These machines require less skilled operators as the machines do the most difficult part
2. Loading Devices
On some sewing operations it is now possible to use devices that can pick up a single
ply of material from a stack and load in into a machine (such as a label sewer). These
are mostly applicable on operations using virgin bundles (fresh from cutting).
3. Stacking Devices
There are many types of automatic stackers now in use (both commercial and shop
made) that can clear sewn work from the machine and stack neatly for the next
operation.
4. Faster Machines
5. Folders
Folders that remove the need for the operator to manually fold.
These can be hinged to swing in and out when needed.
6. Thread Cutters
7. Work Aids
Bins and chutes that carry work away from machine, shelves and trays for positioning of
work.
8. Needle Positioners
These are all examples of Big Methods improvements and will normally result in quota
changes on the Jobs affected.
Little methods can be defined as the things the operator does after the big method has
been established. This means the way she handles her work (the pick up, positioning,
repositioning while sewing, and disposal) and the way she controls her machine while
sewing (the speed she uses, the number of stops, etc.).
1. The Basics
There are a series of formal principles relating to the most economical ways to perform
various motions of the human body. Here is a condensed version that is applicable to
sewing jobs:
Some of the more common things to specifically look for in sewing operations and
operators are:
Things to Change
Things to Encourage
These little methods may not affect the job quotas but they are the type of things that
can make or break an operator in trying to reach quota.
There are some very tangible benefits to be realised from methods improvements: Both
big and little
Outline Steps
Make sure the frequencies of the different elements are accounted for
In particular ‘bundle handling’ will apply once per bundle
This gives the ‘Basic time’ for the operation
Add allowances
• A break point marks the end of one element and the beginning of the next.
• The total of all the elements in an operation represents the operation cycle. The
cycle time is the time from one point on one garment to the same point on the next
garment.
1. Clearly & fully described on the study sheet (except where they are widely
recognised). The break point should be defined if there is any risk of doubt.
2. Select break points so that they can be easily recognised – look for distinctive
motion and listen for distinctive sounds.
3. Select with a clear distinction between machine & manual work.
4. Not too short to make timing difficult, not too long to permit operator’s rating to
vary, and your attention to wander!
• Do not stand in front of the operator. Stand in a less discomforting position, such as
off to the side or in the back.
• Always calculate the time study results immediately after the date gathering.
• When studying, the observer notes the speed at which the operator performs, and
compares this mentally with the concept of the standard pace at which an operator
would work if motivated to apply herself and is free from fatigue (100% operator).
• Do not confuse smooth, fluid motion with slow motion. Don’t mistake rhythmic
intensity for fast productive motion.
• Before starting a study the engineer must ensure that he understands the correct
motion for the operation, and then checks that the operator is using them. The study
should not be taken if the motion pattern is incorrect unless the engineer is prepared
to compensate for the incorrect motion in his elemental rating or else assures
himself/herself that the discrepancy is insignificant.
• Have the quality supervisor or in-line sampler check the bundle. This ensures that
the time standard is not established on an unsatisfactory quality standard.
• Allowances are added to the 100% time determined by the time study to give a
Standard allowed time which will permit the average operator to earn a satisfactory
wage, provided there is no abnormal delays and she applies herself to her work.
7.4 Rating
The ability to rate effectively distinguishes a qualified time study practitioner from a
novice.
A ‘Standard Operator’ is
‘Standard Performance’ is
Then Quality
In a sewing factory, there is always a need to develop the skills and the stamina of the
operators. There is a logical way in which this can be done. We develop skills first and
then stamina, but the two cannot be separated.
We can consider skill to be sound & correct methods. Once we have the method
correct, we can start an effective follow-up.
1. Methods* Review methods used and ensure correct motion pattern is in use.
2. Capacity Study
Is there a difference between potential performance (capacity) and actual
(or single cycle
performance (achieved).The gap is called is called a Capacity Gap.
check)
4. Bundle by bundle
Is there a stamina problem?
follow-up (or hourly
Can we develop performance gradually day by day?
checks)
When we make a capacity study on an operator, we are measuring the performance she
should attain if she continues to work at the same pace and use the same method as
observed during the study. This means that at the end of the study we can say That
operator has the capacity to be a 120 percent performer" or whatever performance level
the study indicates.
What exactly do we mean by capacity? Well, it means the same as capability. It means
that the operator is capable of achieving the performance measured by the study.
Can any of you think of reasons why it would be valuable to know what performance
levels your operators were capable of achieving? Here are some reasons why most
supervisors find it useful to know the production capabilities of their operators:
1. Check Quotas
There is often quite a difference between what an operator says she can do and what
she can actually do. This is especially true when new quotas are involved. A capacity
check can measure what performance the operator is capable of achieving and this can
be compared to the quota to test its fairness
The supervisor can then answer the operator's complaint based on facts. Can you see
how this would be helpful to a supervisor?
2. Motivate Operators
One of the main duties of a supervisor is to motivate her operators to perform at the
highest level possible. In many cases, however, operators perform at less than their
capabilities simply because they do not realise what their full capabilities are or do not
realise what it would mean to them to perform at this level.
The word “Habitual" may be part of the answer. Some operators get into the habit of
being 90 percent performers. Once it becomes a habit, the operator tends to think that
90 percent is all she can do.
Generally speaking, people will do what they think they can do, but usually what they
think they can do is less than what is actually achievable. A good example of this is the
“Four minute mile".
Until 1954, no human had ever run a mile in less than four minutes. For years people
talked about a four minute mile and many tried but failed and it was just about concluded
that there was a limit to a human's capacity that prevented him from running that fast.
Then in 1954, a medical student in England ran a mile in three minutes and 59 seconds
to set a new world's record and become the first man to break the four minute barrier.
Several weeks later, an Australian ran a mile in three minutes and 58 seconds. Then a
German broke four minutes, and then two Hungarians and finally an American.
Once it had been done, four minutes was no longer considered difficult to achieve and
today running a mile in four minutes is not considered a great accomplishment.
A capacity study is a means of showing an operator that she is capable of more than she
realises. It shows her with facts.
Many supervisors have found capacity studies useful in motivating their operators to
higher performance.
This is useful to a supervisor in setting production and performance goals for her
section. It can give the supervisor and her operators common goals to work toward
These things are going to occur regardless of the operator's ability therefore, they are
not considered to be a measure of how she is able to perform her job. When this type
delay does occur, it will cause the operator to take longer on that particular cycle than
she normally does. In making a capacity study, we would circle such a cycle when it
occurs and not use it to calculate our average cycle.
• During the capacity study, the operator’s average time per cycle to sew her operation
is determined. We then assume the operator works at this pace all day and takes the
full amount of lost time (machine delay, personal and fatigue time) provided for in the
target. We call the time left, after lost time has been deducted, the available sewing
minutes. These are divided by the average time per piece to estimate production.
• Operators benefit from capacity studies only if you spot wasted motions and make
suggestions and corrections. Results of every capacity study should be reviewed
with the operator.
Allowances:
• Allowances are added to the 100% time determined by a time study to give a
Standard Time which will provide the average operator to earn a satisfactory wage,
provided there is no abnormal incidence of delays and she applies herself to her
work. These are also used while estimating an operator’s capacity. Three categories
are recognised: -
1. Machine delay
2. Personal and fatigue
3. Incentive
• Machine delay
The machine delay factor is applied to the total of cyclic elements when the work is
largely machining, although not applied to wholly manipulative work such as clipping
or turning parts. This has the effect of giving a delay allowance on the manipulative
elements within a machine cycle such as ‘pick up garment’. On the average, this
does not present any problem since the percentages have been worked out from
experience. However, a job with an unusually high or low percentage of pure work in
Some aspects of normal required personal time can be quantified, but fatigue itself
cannot be measured. It is also impossible to separate personal and fatigue time
because of their inter-relation with one another. This allowance came into being
through guesswork and trial based on general use. History and experience have
proven these allowances to be reasonably correct for a great many varying
situations. Personal and fatigue allowance covers break periods, personal needs
such as water, rest rooms, minor conversations etc.
It should be noted that the machine delay factor is applied to 100% time, and the
personal and fatigue time (with the incentive factor added) is applied to this to give
the SAM.
General comments:
Bundle handling
Thread breaks
â Rea Act. Rea Act. Rea Act. Rea Act. Rea Act. Rea Act.
Rati Rati Rati Rati Rati Rati
d Tim d Tim d Tim d Tim d Tim d Tim
ng ng ng ng ng ng
e e e e e e
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Tot
al
No.
of
val
ues
ove
rall
rati
ng
ave
rag
val
ue
Element Basi Oc Basi % Adj % Calc % Installed uni Times Prod.
Nos c cs. c MD basic RA SM poli SM per t
min per min per cy gmt
s
per G per min Gmt All mi hrs
occ. mt gmt per ow ns
gmt
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
Comment:
Operation : Time :
1 2 3 4 5 6
Tgt/pc
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
Average
Total Tgt.
% Achvd
Prepared by:
Remarks/Conclusion:
S. OPERATION SAM M/C ACT. MACHINE M/C ATTCH. NO. OF D.L. NO. OF NOTE
NO. Y/N TIME TYPE / CLASS FOLDERS/GUIDES OPER. M/Cs Target piece req./ oper
CALC ALLOC REQD
PREPARATORY
Lining Zipper side Krook cut and turn 0.54 Y 0.72 SNLS 1.14 1.00 1.00
Lining left and right side over lock 0.43 Y 0.57 5-TH O/L 0.91 1.00 1.00
Lining zipper portion serging (over lock) 0.27 Y 0.36 3 T O/lock 0.57 1.00 1.00
Zipper Facing bottom run stitch 0.11 Y 0.15 SNLS 0.23 0.00 0.00
Wasit band run stitch 0.24 Y 0.32 SNLS 0.51 1.00 1.00
1st panels (pintuck and back )overlock on right side 0.29 Y 0.39 5-TH O/L 0.61 1.00 1.00
2nd panels right side overlock join (Front and back) 0.29 Y 0.39 5-TH O/L 0.61 1.00 1.00
2nd panel gather 0.42 Y 0.56 SNLS 0.89 1.00 1.00
Pintuck panel and 2 nd panel attaching 0.74 Y 0.99 SNLS 1.56 2.00 2.00
1 st seam overlock 0.15 Y 0.20 3 T O/lock 0.32 0.00 0.00
Shell left side join 0.61 Y 0.81 SNLS 1.29 1.00 1.00
Shell zipper side serging (overlock) 0.61 Y 0.81 3 T O/lock 1.29 1.00 1.00
Ruffle attach on skirt 1.44 Y 1.92 SNLS 3.04 3.00 3.00
Zipper attach on shell (one side) 0.50 Y 0.67 SNLS 1.06 1.00 1.00
Zipper attach (Pointed / placket making) on other side 0.85 Y 1.13 SNLS 1.79 2.00 2.00
Facing attach on Zipper shell assembly 0.47 Y 0.63 SNLS 0.99 1.00 1.00
3rd panel shell right and left side seam join 0.31 Y 0.41 5-TH O/L 0.65 1.00 1.00
3rd panel gather 0.71 Y 0.95 SNLS 1.51 2.00 2.00
3rd gathered panel attach to second panel 0.54 Y 0.72 SNLS 1.14 1.00 1.00
3 rd Gather panel attach to second panels 1.25 Y 1.67 SNLS 2.64 2.00 2.00
2 nd Seam Overlock 0.31 Y 0.42 3TH O/L 0.66 1.00 1.00
Second seam edge stitch 1.09 Y 1.45 SNLS 2.30 2.00 2.00
3rd panel hemming 0.50 Y 0.67 SNLS 1.06 1.00 1.00
Lining - shell Zipper Facing attach (one side) 0.46 Y 0.61 SNLS 0.97 1.00 1.00
Lining - shell Zipper Facing attach (other side) 0.40 Y 0.53 SNLS 0.84 1.00 1.00
Lining opening lock 0.48 Y 0.64 SNLS 1.01 1.00 1.00
Zipper edge stitch 0.39 Y 0.52 SNLS 0.82 1.00 1.00
Lining body ready stitch 0.51 Y 0.68 SNLS 1.08 1.00 1.00
Main and size label attach 0.34 Y 0.45 SNLS 0.72 1.00 1.00
Wash care attach 0.36 Y 0.48 SNLS 0.76 1.00 1.00
Belt attach 0.75 Y 1.00 SNLS 1.58 2.00 2.00
elastic extensoin (pointed) stitch 0.37 Y 0.49 SNLS 0.78 1.00 1.00
Belt Finishing attach 1.10 Y 1.47 SNLS 2.32 2.00 2.00
Belt Kinnari 0.38 Y 0.50 SNLS 0.80 1.00 1.00
Waist band Elastic Kruke 0.64 Y 0.85 SNLS 1.35 2.00 2.00
Elastic attach 0.69 Y 0.92 SNLS 1.46 2.00 2.00
Elastic Pointed stitch 0.37 Y 0.49 SNLS 0.78 1.00 1.00
Scallop width cutting Y 0.00 SNLS with edge cutter 0.00 0.00 0.00
lace join @ left & right side 0.45 Y 0.60 5-TH O/L 0.95 1.00 1.00
Bottom Lace attach 1.10 Y 1.47 SNLS 2.32 2.00 2.00
Bottom Lace seam overlock 0.38 Y 0.50 5-TH O/L 0.80 1.00 1.00
Scallop - Bottom panel edge stitch 0.78 Y 1.04 SNLS 1.65 2.00 2.00
Bow attach 0.53 Y 0.71 SNLS 1.12 1.00 1.00
30.33 40.44 67.00 62.00
METHOD DOCUMENT
Style #1 Product : Blouse Operation Pocket- Date Approved by: SS
Bellow strip
stitch (2)
SAM 0.75 Operation No. : 4 Machine DNLS W/ Needle SPI
split bar
Work Aids : Pocket Holder for pickup /Bellow Strip Attachments P727 2 Needle Presser foot with rigid guild
dispensor/ Left Pocket holder for disposal
Previous Operation: Sequence of Parts
Pocket hemming/ pressing Received: Ascending
of bellow
Following Operation:
Send: Ascending
2. Pick the Pocket from front pocket holder and place under the presser foot over bellow strip while holding the BH
trimmer in the other hand
3. Tack initailly and then stitch bellow along pocket shape till end 3 bursts and tack in the end and cut the strip BH
4. Dispose in the left pocket holder with face down so that will keep the order when bundle is inverted LH
5. Repeat 1,2,3 &4 till all the pieces of one bundle is finished BH
Bundle Handling after Operation
1.Report the output on the gum sheet RH
3. Tie and Dispose the bundle BH
Operation Diagram Operation Layout
Duration SAM Capacity % Target Time Units Perf% Duration SAM Capacity % Target Time Units Perf%
(mins) (on capacity) Start Finish Total min. Completed Achieved (mins) (on capacity) Start Finish Total min. Completed Achieved
1 1
2 2
3 3
4 4
5 5
6 6
7 7
8 8
Daily Summary Total Clock Time: Off. Std mins: Daily Summary Total Clock Time: Off. Std mins:
Operation SAM Units SAMs Prd. Perf. % Eff. % Operation SAM Units SAMs Prd. Perf. % Eff. %
1 1
2 2
3 3
Gen-Prom, UNDP 53 KSA-Technopak