Professional Documents
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Trash to treasure
16 Jewelry made from paper in Africa
finds value in the retail market
Apothecary Fairy’s
19 Local chefs grow
organic produce
23 natural skin care
Hip&
Eco-fab
Indie clothing company
Sache keeping it ‘green’
By Emily Adams Keplinger
keplinger@commercialappeal.com
earth, we chose to use as many natural like those used thousands of years ago.
fabrics as possible. Mostly we use cotton, For instance, we use iron to produce a
a renewable resource, for our clothing, coppery tone. We like the fact that our
some of which is organically grown. And pigments are materials actually found in
we get our cotton garments from a nature, not synthetically produced in a
regional distributor, so we are buying lab somewhere,” Evans added.
locally. One of our signature fabrics is a The resulting finishes have names like
ring-spun cotton, with a slight nap, that “Ocean Wash” and “Dip Dye” that offer a
give it the feel of jersey,” Evans said. sense of visual texture through a
While a few of the garments come to gradation of colors.
Sache in color, most of the clothing they In addition to using natural products,
get is initially white, and they dye it in Sache uses silk screening to process
their shop using their own techniques. their designs onto the clothing. And
“For our designs, our dyes are actually they’ve opted to use an eco-product line,
organic pigments made from minerals, by Enviroline, that takes some of the
6 GOING GREEN | Sunday, October 3, 2010 commercialappeal.com
Sache
For the silk screening process used to lay the graphic designs on the clothing,
Sache has opted to use an eco-product line, by Enviroline, that helps keep
contaminants out of the ground water.
harmful processes out of the loop, “corseting.” Evans cuts horizontal slits
ultimately keeping contaminants out of in the clothing, then “weaves” the strips
the ground water. into a corseted design. The customized
“We use a water-based print aspect of their clothing continues in that
application, and all of the chemicals used customers can request where they would
to clean our equipment are like the corset component to be placed
environmentally-friendly. We also (shoulders, hips, neckline, back, etc.).
practice being green by reusing much of On Aug. 26, Sache held a grand
our technical material, such as the silk opening for its retail shop at 525 S.
screens,” explained Evans. Main. Sache is having its first fashion
And rather than adding artificial show this weekend, as part of the Mid-
embellishments to give their fashions a South Fashion Week event being held at
unique flair, Evans said the accidental the Cook Convention Center.
light bulb moment came when he was For more information about Sache, call 201-
trying to push the design component 4046 or visit sacheclothing.com. You can also
and found a unique style he calls follow Sache on Facebook.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, October 3, 2010 | GOING GREEN 7
Darko Sikman
Nicole Bridger proved in her collection at Eco Fashion Week in Vancouver that
the idea of eco fashion as just khakis and wooly hats has changed. Nicole’s
designs offered a palette of colors with delicate peaches, baby blues, beiges and
browns along with the occasional shock of lime green. She wooed the crowd with
her soft flowing feminine lines into a world of elegance and grace.
seeing organic wool pop up,” she said. the Organic Exchange, growth of the or-
The Organic Exchange plans to unveil ganic cotton industry has been stagger-
its new name and logo at The Sus- ing. From 2001 to 2009, it has grown
tainable Textiles Conference in New from $2 million to a $4.2 billion industry.
York on Oct. 27 and 28. “Definitely from 2001 to now it has
This is the second year for the con- grown exponentially,” Hocker said.
ference and last year there were par- Traditionally grown cotton is treated
ticipants from 24 countries. with more industrial pesticides than al-
“This is not just U.S.-centric, this is most any other crop.
throughout the globe,” Hocker said. Hocker said in her opinion, consumer
“We expect about 250 companies from outreach has become increasingly impor-
the entire supply chain.” tant, which is being done by retailers with
As of Sept. 30, there were no reser- the use of hang-tags as well as websites.
vations from Memphis. Short of going organic, dozens of
According to information collected by brands and retailers — who combine
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, October 3, 2010 | GOING GREEN 9
MCT
Generic Youth fashions are designed and hand-sewn at Jeff Yokoyama’s
California workshop.
Not so generic
Unique By Candice Shih With few exceptions, each
The Orange County Register garment is designed, hand-sewn
garments and sold by Yokoyama and his
After more than three decades small team at his workshop in an
crafted industrial area in Westside
in the activewear industry, what
from Jeff Yokoyama does now with Costa Mesa, Calif.
Generic Youth is possibly his The centerpiece of Generic
discarded least generic project. Youth (genericyouth.com) is its
His clothes aren’t made in approach to raw materials.
fabric
China, mass marketed or sold to “We hand-make items from
retail stores. fabrics left over on the open
12 GOING GREEN | Sunday, October 3, 2010 commercialappeal.com
MCT
Discarded fabric is used to make Yokoyama’s one-of-a-kind designs.
shirtwaist factories, which produced 19th century, when fine silk brocades
affordable styles that allowed more were so rare and cherished that their
women to participate in fashion, but at repurposing was its own kind of
the cost of fair labor practices? conservation.
These are just a few of the fascinating A pale green silk dress from 1840 is
tidbits from the exhibition “Eco an early example of multifunctionality.
Fashion: Going Green,” on view at the To get more out of a dress made of
Museum at the Fashion Institute of high-cost fabric, it has a removable
Technology in New York City through capelet and sleeves to take a woman
Nov. 13. from day to night.
The term eco-fashion is at odds with Mass production of ready-to-wear
the nature of an industry that thrives on pieces such as the 1894 Stanley
churning through styles. But over the last shirtwaist helped break down social
decade, there has barriers by allowing
been a growing more women to
movement of dress stylishly, but at
designers and a cost, as evidenced
brands using, by the tragic
producing or Triangle Shirtwaist
promoting factory fire, which
sustainable and claimed the lives of
ethical products. 146 workers in 1911.
They include Bono New synthetic
and Ali Hewson, dyes brought
whose Edun label Photo courtesy of FIT exciting colors to
focuses on creating The collection includes this Cezanne apparel, but there
sustainable pump by Charmoné. were health
economies in Africa, ramifications, as an
and Alabama 1865 two-piece
Chanin, who champions fair labor “poison green” silk tulle dress dyed with
practices by employing 80 women to arsenic attests. “We tried not to breathe
hand-stitch and paint garments. in while we were handling it,” Hill says.
There’s a rising consciousness among Eco-fashion is complicated because it
more mainstream fashion designers too. is often a trade-off of positives and
But eco-fashion, as defined by the negatives, as illustrated by a wrinkle-
curators Colleen Hill and Jennifer resistant cotton nylon seersucker wash-
Farley, includes industry examples of and-wear men’s suit from 1959. “It was
both good and bad environmental intended to minimize ironing, which
practices. Their exhibit provides 150 shows evidence of saving energy over
years of historical context on animal the garment’s lifetime,” Farley says.
rights, labor and manufacturing issues “But it’s made from nylon, and nylon
to add to the discussion. production is concerning because it
The exhibit is organized produces nitrous oxide gas, which stays
chronologically, beginning in the mid- in the environment 120 years.”
16 GOING GREEN | Sunday, October 3, 2010 commercialappeal.com
31 BIts now employs 60 women in Uganda to craft beads rolled from bits of paper.
back to these women. the right color for the design, they will
“It got our minds rolling,” said Alli have it printed.
Swanson, a friend and now business The Ugandans who make the beads
partner. “How could we do this?” first roll the paper and then apply a
Now Dovel, Swanson, Anna Nelson, varnish to make them hard and
Brooke Hodges and Jessie Simonson — waterproof. Then they are strung
all recent graduates of Vanguard — run together. One worker might make 80
a jewelry and shoe company called 31 single-strand necklaces in a week. Styles
Bits (31bits.com). include chunky, single-strand necklaces
The name comes from the Bible’s and multistrand pieces with smaller
Proverbs 31, which beads. The women make
describes a woman bracelets, too.
providing for her family. “Here we are, five
The jewelry is sold at
The “bits” refers to the young girls who stores in California for
bits of paper from which $25 to $55 for necklaces.
the beads are made. know nothing about
Simpler styles are
Having started out starting a business. available online.
with six women in Gulu, 31 Bits also formed a
200 miles from Uganda’s We’re working with
partnership with Reef
capital of Kampala, 31 women who have sandals to make paper
Bits now employs 60 beads that embellish T-
women. nothing, and it’s a
strap leather shoes.
Out of the five co- product made out of
founders, usually two With the money they
are working in Uganda trash.” make from working with
and three in Costa Mesa 31 Bits, the Ugandan
at any given time. KALLIE DOVEL women “are sending their
Dovel is in Uganda children and other
now with Hodges. They orphans to school when
live in a compound they were not able to
where the jewelry makers do their work. before, buying large
“My day normally includes spending amounts of local produce to sell, buying
time with each lady making sure she is pigs, chickens, buying chairs and
doing her assignment for the month mattresses,” Dovel said.
correctly, rolling beads with her, getting For Swanson, the contradictions of 31
supplies for them and answering any Bits make sense.
questions they might have about the “Here we are, five young girls who
designs,” Dovel said in an e-mail. know nothing about starting a business.
According to Swanson, the 31 Bits We’re working with women who have
partners on site will buy the raw nothing, and it’s a product made out of
materials in Kampala, which requires a trash. It’s definitely not a recipe for
six-hour bus ride. The paper for the success,” she said.
beads is all recycled, often originating as “But that’s the coolest thing about it.
leftover material from printers. If it isn’t It works.”
18 GOING GREEN | Sunday, October 3, 2010 commercialappeal.com
Farm fresh
Organic garden supplies local restaurants
By Suzanne Thompson
Special to Going Green
He said the
involvement of the
restaurants’ staff —
servers and other
employees are paid for
their work at the farm —
has been beneficial to
them because they can
speak knowledgeably
about the ingredients in Michael Patrick
the entrees they serve. says the
The farm also houses garden “has
five honeybee hives elevated the
containing 15,000 bees flavor and
producing honey for use freshness of
in the restaurants. the food, and
The image of a bee has inspired
appears on restaurant the staff” at
menu items that contain his restaurant.
the natural honey and a
small tomato icon RCM Restaurants
identifies menu items that
contain organic Memphis: Papa Pia’s
vegetables harvested from Rum Boogie Cafe Spindini
Woodland Farms. Blues Hall Mississippi:
Flowers are grown
there too, which go on the King’s Palace Cafe Mesquite Chop House
tables and into bouquets Beale Street Tap Room Natural Born Grillers
predominately for use at Absinthe Bar Papa Pia's
Spindini, Lamm said. Pig On Beale Fillin Station Grille (to
Patrick said the crops Mesquite Chop House open Oct. 4)
from the organic garden
have greatly enhanced the
dishes he creates and
prepares. Lamm said the gained recognition
“It has elevated the gardening project is going beyond the restaurant
flavor and freshness of the so well that he already has community.
food, and has inspired the plans to farm an The DeSoto County
staff. To me it’s a kind of additional acre in 2011. Community Health
a trickle-down effect. We They have also discussed Council recognized River
grow the food, they are building greenhouses on City Management as its
proud to serve the food, the land. Health Champion at the
and the customers enjoy The organic garden is a organization’s June
the food,” Patrick said. project that has already meeting.
22 GOING GREEN | Sunday, October 3, 2010 commercialappeal.com
The garden provides ingredients used in the tables and ask customers
more than just vegetables dishes at his restaurant if they were noticing the
and herbs. Lamm said come from the farm. fresh veggies. Now they
just working in the garden His favorite vegetable will stop me and say, ‘Boy,
has been a team-building from the garden so far is you can really tell a
experience. Japanese eggplant, which difference.’ ”
“For me and some of he uses in a variety of “When you can start
my mid-level managers, to ways. using fresh things that
take a Sunday off and go “You can grill ’em, chill came out of the garden
down there and just dig in ’em, core out the center today, it makes a
the dirt — it’s a good and stuff them,” complete change in the
release. We’ve had a lot of Cartwright said. One of dish. It’s like a brand-new
fun with it,” he said. his favorite special dishes thing for people.”
Joseph Cartwright, chef is the Japanese eggplant Even though
at Spindini, said he, stuffed with crab meat Cartwright said he loves
Patrick and Lamm put in and served with a cooking with the fresh
the herb garden together. blueberry compote. vegetables, it’s the use of
“Mike Patrick and I talk The blueberries also the many varieties of
about being on our knees come from the farm. freshly picked herbs he
with the president Customers have most appreciates.
digging in the dirt,” he noticed the difference in “It’s the colors of the
said. “We planted about the food’s flavor since food. The food is the
15 or 20 different herbs.” Cartwright began using outline of the painting,
Cartwright said about the organic items. but the herbs are the
30 percent of the total “I used to stop by the color,” he said.
Keeping it simple
Apothecary Fairy offers all-natural skin care products
By Suzanne Thompson
Special to Going Green
natural mosquito
repellant applied with
a roller and talc-free
baby powder.
Room to be green
“My children have
ended up inspiring
me to make certain
different products
that people were
looking for, but
couldn’t find.”
She is completing
construction on a
studio behind her
home, which she
plans to open by mid-
October to host
“evenings with the
Apothecary Fairy”
bimonthly. Neal Patel, owner and operator of The Quality Inn in
The space will have Millington, is a participant in Choice Hotels’ “Room
a warm ambiance, to be Green” program.
with music playing as
she offers guests tea Local hotel owner supports green practices
and cake.
Singer also will and quality customer service
open the space to the
public during the By Kim Odom environmental impact and
holiday shopping kodom@commercialappeal.com waste, meet the changing
season. expectations of today’s
Eventually, she Neal Patel, owner and environmentally conscious
would like to grow operator of The Quality guest, and potentially
into a retail space Inn in Millington, is a lower operational
with decor that supporter of green expenses.
replicates that of practices that will help Hotels meeting all the
apothecaries in the save the planet. requirements of the Room
early 1900s, and His hotel, located at to be Green program are
reflects the down-to- 7726 U.S. 51 North, is a recognized with a
earth products she participant in Choice designation from Choice as
sells. Hotels’ “Room to be a hotel that supports green
“I believe in Green” program. The ways.
practical, simple skin property-level program is As a business owner
care that works.” designed to reduce and green supporter, Patel
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, October 3, 2010 | GOING GREEN 27
Let’s not
pooh-pooh
the idea
Your dog's poop
can be an effective
source of energy Spark Park Project
Matthew Mazzotta is using dog feces to power
By Helen Jupiter lampposts in a park in Cambridge, Massachusetts.
Mother Nature Network
“scientific-art which it’s transported to
Dogs help us in so many intervention” was a waste facility, and where
ways, from herding cattle conceived by conceptual it continues to create
to sniffing out everything artist Matthew Mazzotta, methane, a highly
from bombs to cancer. and is the first dog park combustible greenhouse
They’re our eyes, ears and methane digester in the gas. Funded through MIT,
limbs when we’re disabled, United States. It works by and in partnership with
and they predict epileptic transforming dog waste the city of Cambridge, the
seizures. They offer social into methane, which is Park Spark project aims
support and health then used to power a to show that waste can be
benefits, and they can even lamppost in the park. The a precious resource —
rescue us from drowning. park provides methane is an effective
It seems the only biodegradable dog waste source of energy — all the
drawback to owning a dog bags, and encourages dog while reducing
is the unpleasant chore of owners to drop their pup’s greenhouse emissions.
having to pick up poop, but waste into the methane The team behind the
a dog park in Cambridge, digester’s feeding tube. A Park Spark project hopes
Mass., is showing how turn of the hand crank, there will be enough
even that chore can have a and voilà: The mixture of methane generated to
silver lining. excrement and anaerobic power other objects in the
PhysOrg.com is bacteria helps the park and beyond. They’re
reporting on The Park methane rise to the top soliciting input from the
Spark project, a methane where it can be burned. community at large, so if
digester that runs on dog Traditionally, dog you’ve got some bright
waste. Recently installed owners throw their canine ideas on how Park Spark
at the Pacific Street Dog companion’s excrement methane should be used,
Park in Cambridge, the into a garbage bin, from get involved.