Making tracks

in New Zealand
An exclusive peek at the
South Island’s new trail

T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E Purr-fection in
the Pantanal
www.wanderlust.co.uk September 2018 Getting up close with
W i n !Kong Brazil’s wild jaguars

WILDLIFE
Trips to Hong
ttany
& Macao, Bri bia
and Colom
See p 4

ENCOUNTERS
From sloths in Costa Rica to penguins in Antarctica –
our guide to seeing the world’s most amazing species

Cambodia’s
last wilderness
Visit the eco-camp saving the

+
Cardamom Mountains

 Solo travel in the modern age

 Chasing dragons in Kraków
 Join Palermo’s culture club
 Thailand photo special FREE
INSIDE
36-page
£4.50

birdwatching
guide
SAILING SRI LANKA — EAST COAST
Discover the undiscovered. Starting from £879
With a brand new boat and no single supplement charge, this small group tour of 8
passengers will offer you an experience you won’t find through anyone else. In this
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 Upfront

Call of the wild

Find out how to
get within sniffing THE TEAM
distance of some
of the world’s most
remarkable wildlife What have
they been up
to this month?

TOM HAWKER
♦ PRODUCTION EDITOR ♦
Chatting to Simon Reeve
about why travellers hate
having him on their flights
SEE PAGE 16

Welcome 5 THINGS
WE LEARNED
THIS ISSUE:
ELLIE KINSELLA

1
We’ve gone wildlife-tastic this issue, bringing One reason Swaziland’s king gave ♦ ASSISTANT WEB EDITOR ♦
Lacing up her boots to
you plenty of ideas for getting close to nature. for changing his country’s name to mark 50 years of the US
Mark Stratton’s story of a pioneering eco-camp in National Trails network
eSwatini was that people too often
Cambodia (p22) is inspiring, but makes you realise SEE PAGE 63
confused it with Switzerland; p18
how vital it is that travellers support such initiatives.
Meanwhile, I’m just back from one of the most
extraordinary wildlife trips of my life – see where
on p74. Both stories highlight how tourism can be a power for good.
2 The leeches in Cambodia’s
Cardamom Mountains can hold
their breathe for a really long time; p22
The same can be said for Wanderlust. We often hear from readers
how the magazine has changed their life. If this applies to you, then
please do let us know as we’d like to feature some of your stories in our 3 South Africa is home to 93% of the
world’s remaining white rhinos; p88 GARETH CLARK

4
special 25th anniversary autumn issue; email info@wanderlust.co.uk ♦ SUB-EDITOR/WRITER ♦
Adding vodka to your water bottle Adding arancini to
with the subject line: ‘Wanderlust changed my life’. will stop liquid from freezing when his growing list of
And we hope to meet with many of you at a couple of upcoming must-try travel foods
cold (or make you a jolly person); p102
events at London’s Royal Geographical Society. We will be holding SEE PAGE 14
an exclusive reader evening with the Belize Tourism Board in
September, and an extra-special edition of the Wanderlust World
Guide Awards in October. Please do come along to both (p17).
5 Formerly The Blackball Hilton
hotel in New Zealand included the
word ‘formerly’ to avoid a lawsuit; p46

Happy travels,

RHODRI ANDREWS
♦ ASSISTANT EDITOR ♦
Cover image USA, Alaska, Katmai National Park, close-up of grizzly bear by Kinak Bay on autumn morning © Danita Delimont Stock/AWL Images This page Alamy, Dreamstime

Wobbling his way to

becoming a stand-up
Lyn Hughes paddleboarding pro
Editor-In-Chief/Co-founder SEE PAGE 60

£50
See 44 for details
S P E C I A L O F F E R
Making tracks
Wanderlust Issue 189 (September 2018) 9 Wildlife encounters ♦ Brazil’s Pantanal ♦ New Zealand’s Paparoa Track ♦ Cambodia ♦ Solo Travel ♦ Pocket guides: Windhoek (Namibia), Palermo (Italy), Kraków (Poland)

in New Zealand
An exclusive peek at the
South Island’s new trail

*
SUBSCRIBE AND RECEIVE
T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E Purr-fection in
the Pantanal
www.wanderlust.co.uk September 2018 Getting up close with
Win!Kong Brazil’s wild jaguars

WILDLIFE
Trips to Hong
& Macao, Brittany
and Colombia
See p4

ENCOUNTERS
From sloths in Costa Rica to penguins in Antarctica –
our guide to seeing the world’s most amazing species

A TRAVEL VOUCHER WORTH

Cambodia’s
last wilderness
Visit the eco-camp saving the

+
Cardamom Mountains

 Solo travel in the modern age

 Chasing dragons in Kraków
 Join Palermo’s culture club
 Thailand photo special FREE
INSIDE
36-page
birdwatching
guide

* Terms and conditions apply

000_Cover189_SO.indd 1 20/07/2018 13:53

Wanderlust September 2018 |1

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2| Wanderlust September 2018


CONTRIBUTORS
This issue was brought to you in part by…
Mario Haberfeld
Co-founder of the
Onçafari Project
Mario is co-founder of the
Onçafari Project, a jaguar
conservation scheme in
the Brazilian Pantanal. He
shows Lyn Hughes how
they help farmers and big
cats live in harmony (p74).
Mountain, desert,
ocean or jungle…
which are you?
Jungle.
First great travel
experience?
Going to the Serengeti
in Tanzania with my dad
when I was 11. We’d camp
every night and only have
a shower when we found
a waterfall. I spent my 12th
birthday camping inside
the Ngorongoro Crater.
Favourite journey?
A week-long trip canoeing
down the Zambezi River
at Mana Pools NP in
Zimbabwe. It’s a fantastic
place that’s booming with
wildlife – it’s like you’ve
gone back 500 years.
Top five places
worldwide?
Pantanal, Brazil;
Antarctica; Mana Pools NP,
Zimbabwe; Sabi Sands
GR, South Africa; and
anywhere animals get the
respect they deserve.
Passport stamp
you’re proudest of?
Qinling, China. I saw giant
pandas in the wild there.
Passport stamp you’d
most like to have?
Hemis National Park,
India, in the Himalayas. It
must be fantastic to see
snow leopards in the wild.
Guilty travel pleasure?
Not having to exercise.
When on safari, it’s very
Helen Cathcart
hard to find a place to
safely go running outside.
Katie & Giancarlo
Caldesi
Cookbook authors
Husband and wife team
Katie and Giancarlo
Caldesi love Italian food,
owning two restaurants
and a cookery school.
Their new book, Sicily,
explores the isle’s cuisine
and one of its best-loved
snacks, arancini (p14).
Mountain, desert,
ocean or jungle…
which are you?
Giancarlo: Mountain.
Katie: Jungle.
First great travel
experience?
G: Taking a steam train by
myself when I was nine to
another town an hour
from my home in Tuscany.
K: Normandy with my
parents on our annual
holiday, and eating
delicious French food.
Favourite journey?
G: Going home to Tuscany
to visit my parents via
plane, train and walking
as they had no car.
K: Flying first class
for the first time on
my honeymoon to the
Caribbean island of
Mustique. It was amazing!
Top five places
worldwide?
G: New York City, USA;
Venice & Naples, Italy;
London, UK; Paris, France.
K: New York City, USA;
New Delhi, India; Bologna,
Tuscany and Venice, Italy.
Passport stamp
you’re proudest of?
Both: Peru!
Passport stamp you’d
most like to have?
Both: New Zealand.
Guilty travel pleasure?
Both: To be able to
travel first class with
flat beds and fizz!
Mark Bauer
Photographer
Most photographers will
tell you that sunset and
sunrise are the ‘golden
hours’. But snapper
Mark Bauer proves
you shouldn’t dismiss
midday for capturing the
perfect scene. Just make
sure that you have the
patience to wait for the
right moment to come
along – see page 66.
Mountain, desert,
ocean or jungle…
which are you?
Ocean.
First great travel
experience?
Driving coast to coast
across the USA when
I was a student, after
spending the summer
working in New England.
Favourite journey?
A snowmobile trip in
Greenland to go and
photograph the
northern lights display.
Top five places
worldwide?
Jurassic Coast, England
(I know it’s where I live
but it’s stunning); the ice
beach in Jokulsarlon,
Iceland; San Francisco,
USA; Lake Como, Italy;
and northern Portugal.
Passport stamp
you’re proudest of?
Greenland.
Passport stamp you’d
most like to have?
There are so many places
but probably Chile.
Guilty travel pleasure?
I wouldn’t describe this as
a ‘pleasure’ but I do have
a habit of nicking the
shower caps from hotel
bathrooms. They make
excellent rain covers for
my camera when I’m
shooting in bad weather!
This issue
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guides to their destinations. Bradt guides have long been favourites
with Wanderlust readers and, once again, took the Gold award for Best
Guidebook series in the 2018 Reader Travel Awards. Bradt is offering
Wanderlust readers an exclusive 20% off ALL books bought online.
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Wanderlust September 2018 |3
CONTENTS Issue 189
September 2018
360˚ – NEED TO KNOW TRAVEL MASTERCLASS

6Viewfi nder Dazzling canyons, the Arctic

Caribbean and (seriously) flying penguins 60Instant
The masterclass Finding your feet
in the world of stand-up paddleboarding

12Eat
Need to know this month... Was the
obituary for guidebooks written too early? 63 Trails expert: US National
On the 50th anniversary of the US

14 Go now
this... Why one of Italy’s most iconic
snacks owes a debt to North Africa
National Trails network, we salute its wild hikes

66Take better travel photos

155 minutes with... Simon Reeve
Slow travel at its finest in the
medieval streets and churches of Lviv
Why the midday sun isn’t the death knell for
top scenic snaps – so long as you know a few tricks

16Know your… eSwatini

The thrill-seeking travel king on his new tour 68Travel clinic While some travel health
myths are hogwash, others have one foot

18 Rail adventures 50 years after

independence, Swaziland has a new look
in science. We diagnose the fakers from the shakers

70 Travellers’ guide to... wheelie

20 See the world
from the other side of the tracks…
luggage Get on a roll with our guide
to the top wheeled baggage on the market

WIN!
46
▲ Cover story

889experiences
of the best wildlife
From penguins skipping the ice floes of
A trip for two to
Brittany, France, p72
the Antarctic to brown bears fumbling salmon
in the rivers of Alaska – discover the best A pair of Swarovski
escapes for getting back to the wild. PLUS TV’s binoculars, p86
Liz Bonnin on her favourite animal encounters…
A solo adventure in
Special features Colombia, p108

34Solo travel special

As more and more travellers discover the
freedom that travelling alone gives them, we run
down the tips, tricks and tech making it easier
34 “Solo travel is good for the soul; we return home
full of the wonders of the world and with a new
sense of self and excitement to share.”

110Wanderlust
Photo of the
Year: the winners return
The winners of the 2016 Wanderlust Photo of the
Year competition are back from their Thailand
commission with some incredible shots – we
catch up with them to see how they got on…
Beth Armstrong
“They say Kraków was once menaced by a dragon
with a taste for livestock and virgins, until the
Polish settlement was saved by a shoemaker.”
USA, p63

141
“Perhaps your most memorable experience in
Palermo will be watching puppets chopping each
other’s heads off at the many Opera dei Pupi.”
Graeme Green

TALKING HEADS Brazil, p74

Simon Reeve, p16
“On the plane flying out, there
were some Brits who were saying: oh

139
flipping heck, maybe if you’re going,
we shouldn’t be going there on holiday!”

4| Wanderlust September 2018

 SEND US YOUR BEST TRAVEL SNAPS
Win a fabulous photo commission, p120
FEATURES
22Cambodia Visit a new eco-camp deep
within the Cardamom Mountains that is
ensuring this once-troubled region, home to
some of the country’s rarest wildlife, is being
preserved for travellers and future generations
46 New Zealand With the tenth New
Zealand Great Walk set to launch, we take
an exclusive peek at the trail that is looking to bring
new life to the West Coast’s old mining towns
74 Brazil We head of to the best place on
BBC Pictures/Simon Reeve
Earth to see the jaguar – the remarkable
western wetlands of the Pantanal – in the
company of the local rangers who know these
native big cats best, and are battling to save them
Kraków, p141
Lviv, p15
Sicily, p14 & p139
Windhoek, p137
74
eSwatini, p18
TRAVEL
PHOTO OF
THE YEAR
FROM THE ROAD
2018 POCKET GUIDES
102Your tips From dousing your
water bottle with vodka (to stop it from
freezing) to the joys of an icy kayak encounter, here
137 First 24 hours:
Windhoek, Namibia
Often dismissed as ‘Africa for beginners’, Namibia’s
are your secrets for travelling the polar regions colonial capital is not just a gateway to the parks but
104 Readers’ pictures The best snaps
from your travels, including topping the
Rocky Mountains, exploring Egypt on camelback,
a fascinating living document of the country’s history
139Short break: Palermo, Italy
Sicily’s new Capital of Culture is a riot
mingling with penguins in the Antarctic, taking in of architecture, food, tradition and… err, puppetry.
the views on a Thai ridge walk, and many more… Discover why the past is writ large in the streets,
106 Letters In our mailbag: why it pays buildings and marionette theatres of the city
141Travel
to take your time in Ecuador, recalling icon: Wawel Castle,
your amazing voyages, ‘masking’ your frustration Kraków No longer prone to dragon
on the Sepik River, your 10-second tales of quirky attack – at least not that we know of – this Polish
food markets and much, much more... castle marks 40 years of UNESCO backing
137
“From the air, the range seemed to
rise and fall like the bumpy spine of
a reptile, while tiny figures in orange
vests moved along it like bustling ants.”
Phoebe Smith
“The Kunene region in the north-west
is one of Africa’s last great wildernesses,
home to epic scenery, the semi-nomadic
46
Himba people and wildlife.”
Sarah Gilbert
Thailand, p110
22
Cambodia, p22
“I stroked the silky back of the
largest python as it rustled across
the crispy fallen leaves. It turned
and dared me to do it again.”
Mark Stratton
“The two jaguars were absorbed in each
other and oblivious to our lights as they
New Zealand, p46
mated right there, in the open, in the beam
of our car headlights.” Lyn Hughes
Wanderlust September 2018 |5
 Lower Antelope
Canyon, USA
Arizona’s swirling
sandstone slot
canyon is called
Hazdistazí (‘spiral
rock arches’) by
Getty

the Navajo
 360
1
I
I
I
V i e w f i n d e r

“Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we

must carry it with us or we find it not.” Ralph Waldo Emerson
IMPERIAL LANDING
Cape Washington, Antarctica
Photographer: Paul Nicklen
Compared to Antarctica’s
relatively busy western
peninsula, its eastern side is
rarely visited. Merciless winds,
rough waters and a month at
sea put off all but the most determined. But
those who do make it to the area around the
Ross Ice Shelf are treated to rare encounters,
including close-ups with some of the
240,000 emperor penguins that roam the
ice. In this shot, the presence of leopard seals
likely played a part in the bird’s fast exit. But
these penguins can spend up to three weeks
at sea fishing, so like all great wildlife shots,
it proves how vital it is to be in the right place
at the right time.
Born to Ice (teNeues, £80) is out now.
© 2018 Paul Nicklen. All rights reserved.
www.sealegacy.org; www.teneues.com.
See p88 for our guide to wildlife encounters.
360˚ Viewfinder
360˚ Viewfinder

PEAK ARCTIC
Sommarøya, Norway
Photographer: Johan Lolos
The Arctic is full of surprises.
Few travellers realise the variety
of landscapes, cultures and
countries that fall above 66º
north. This aerial shot
encapsulates that unexpected quality. With
its white-sand beaches and that lonely isle
lapped by jade-coloured waters, you might
mistake it for the Caribbean – if it weren’t for
the snow-dusted crags in the background.
Certainly, you’d never imagine Arctic Norway
to look quite so tropical. And during winter
these same waters are inhabited by
humpbacks and orcas. Yet another reason
to head north.
Peaks of Europe: A Photographer’s
Journey (Lannoo Publishers, £40) is
available to buy from Amazon; out now.
 12 THINGS YOU
Book benefits
Many travellers put
greater trust in

NEED TO KNOW
guidebooks than in
internet information

THIS MONTH...
Your August essentials: Simon Reeve hits the UK;
Swaziland gets a new name; top train travels;
dine like a Sicilian; and much, much more…

1
■ Tr a v e l I s s u e s

Guidebooks are
here to stay
For a while it seemed guidebook sales were in terminal decline but in recent
years they’ve made a comeback. So why are we falling back in love with them?

T
he digital age has arrived, destinations, posted its best-ever years
they said. The era of the between 2015 and 2017, with sales growing
guidebook is over, they said. 32% in that time. Even though the market is
That was in 2012, when still smaller than the ‘golden years’ of the
guidebook sales in the UK 1990s, many believe these green shoots of
and USA had plummeted by recovery show guidebooks are here to stay.
40% since 2005. The situation looked bleak, “For all the talk of shortening attention spans,
with some sources predicting that the last there will always be people – people like
guidebook in the UK would be sold within Wanderlust readers – who want to properly
seven years – meaning 2019. Next year. get under the skin of a place,” says Adrian
But the death knell Phillips from Bradt.
for the printed guide is
far from sounding. In ‘There will always be Many travellers are
looking for clarity and
2015, sales in the UK
and US rose for the first
people – like Wanderlust curation. “The internet
is full of reviews, blogs
time in a decade – up by readers – who want to get and comparison sites,”
4.45% - and they’ve only
grown further since.
under the skin of a place’ says Wanderlust reader
Suzy Pope. “But the
What does the industry guidebook makes sense
put this resurgence down to? of the cacophony of information.”
“The guidebook becomes a trusted travel Others like the nostalgia. “Guidebooks are
companion,” explains Georgina Dee from part of my memories,” adds Wanderlust
DK Travel, which is relaunching its DK reader Sarah Leese. “You make notes in
Eyewitness Travel Guides series this year to them: what you loved, what to avoid if you
mark its 25th anniversary. “It enriches your go back. I love looking through old guides.”
trip through every step and the information So despite the digital revolution and its
is right there in your hand.” endless supply of inspirational material,
Footprint Travel Guides and Bradt Travel people still see the guidebook as a useful,
Guides have both felt the comeback: the desirable tool. It looks like these trusted
latter, which tends to focus on more niche travel friends are here to stay.
Alamy

12 | Wanderlust September 2018

360˚ Need to Know

■ The Nitty Gritty

Why books are best
Five reasons why physical
guides trump online information

1 Quick and easy reference

Books are relatively easy
to flick through quickly to
namecheck a restaurant or site,
compared to trawling through
a multitude of web pages. Speed
things up further by using sticky
notes to mark key pages.

2 Save your data

Using a guidebook avoids
incurring expensive roaming
charges for using the internet
on your phone. Even if your data
plan includes overseas usage,
having a guidebook means you
can save your data allowance for
times when you really need it.

3 All-in-one tool
A guidebook doesn’t just
contain on-the-go bits such as
emergency contacts and useful
phrases, but they provide history
and culture sections too, putting
the area in context – topics you
might not research otherwise.

4 Doorstop!
A guidebook might help
you in the most unexpected
ways. For instance, a hefty
book can make a handy
doorstop or paperweight!

5 A nostalgic keepsake
Guidebooks are romantic
reminders of our amazing
adventures. Years later, a quick
flick through the scribbled notes
and creased Post-its inside can
bring back a flood of memories.

■ Online Reader Poll

How often do you use paper
guidebooks when travel planning?

18%
Never,
I go 34%
online All the time,
I love them
35%
I use paper
and digital 13%
Occasionally

Wanderlust September 2018 | 13

360˚ Need to Know
EAT
■ World Food
THIS...
2
Delve into Sicily’s Moorish
history with an arancini
T
hink of Sicily and you envisage
lush sun-drenched hills rippling
with citrus groves. It’s a landscape
as quintessentially Italian as its
food. Yet few visitors realise that both owe
a debt to the Moors, who once ruled the
island (902–1061 AD) and brought oranges
and lemons here. The Moorish influence is
buried deep in a lot of Sicilian cooking, and
nowhere more so than its arancini.
Now iconically Sicilian, these tasty stuffed
rice balls were first made by the Tuareg people,
desert nomads who hailed from the Sahara
region. But instead of rice, they used goat meat
and couscous. Brought over to Sicily by its
invaders, the arancini recipe soon evolved. In
the 13th-century, the chef to King Frederick II
swapped out couscous for rice, so it would be
14 | Wanderlust September2018
CHEESE & HAM
ARANCINI
Makes around 10 arancini
METHOD
1. Cook arborio rice (500g) in
lightly salted water for 17 to 20
mins. Remove from the heat
and drain. Mix saffron (1 tsp)
with two tablespoons of the rice
water and stir into the rice with
salted butter (50g). Let it cool.
2. For the béchamel, warm milk
(400ml) with a bay leaf in
a pan over medium heat. Warm
Did you
salted butter (75g) and flour
(60g) in another pan and stir.
know?
Like Cornish pasties, arancini
Let the flour mixture bubble
a bit, then pour in the milk and
whisk through, keeping the pan
were originally designed for only over the heat. Season with salt,
the filling to be eaten and the
crust to be thrown away, pepper and nutmeg. As the
as it had been handled sauce starts to thicken, remove
by grubby fingers. from the heat and pour into a
bowl (remove bay leaf). Cover
with cling film and let cool.
3. When the sauce is cold, stir
into it chopped cooked ham
(300g), grated Parmesan
(30g), mozzarella (240g) and
cooked petit pois peas (150g).
4. Make the arancini batter by
mixing flour (100g) and water
(150ml), then blending this
mixture until it is smooth.
5. Work the rice in your hands
for five mins. Weigh out 120g
of the rice and flatten it in your
palm. Make a well in the centre,
spoon in 30g of the filling and
close the rice around it. Dip the
more robust, and added a breadcrumb crust. arancini into the batter and
The aim was to create a durable treat for the drain off any excess, then roll
king’s hunting expeditions, so they didn’t in breadcrumbs (100g).
have to light a fire and scare away their prey. 6. To fry the arancini, heat oil
Today, it’s a typical snack for those on the in a deep-sided pan at around
go and comes in many forms. In Palermo, the 175°C and fry them for five-to-
island’s southern capital, different shapes seven mins or until they’re
have become shorthand for the many fillings. orangey-brown. Skewer the
Cone-shaped arancini have a spinach centre; arancini to pull them out of the
the flat, round ones contain mushroom; the oil. Touch the tip of the skewer
rectangular kind are stuffed with mozzarella to see if it’s hot; if it isn’t, cook
and ham (right); and the balls hide tasty ragu. the balls for longer. Drain on
This system varies as you travel the island. kitchen paper and eat.
Head to the east of Sicily and those made in
the town of Catania are conical, in honour of From Sicily: Recipes From an
nearby volcano Mount Etna. Yet wherever Italian Island (Hardie Grant;
Helen Cathcart
you eat them, nothing quite sums up Sicily’s £25) by Katie & Giancarlo
rich history as well – or as scrumptiously. Caldesi. Out now.
 360˚ Need to Know

Lviv at first sight

GO
■ New Routes Peaceful, strollable Lviv
(pronounced luh-veev)
lies far from the travails
of eastern Ukraine

NOW...

3 Why go?
Travel in the slow lane for
the medieval charms of Lviv
While the east of Ukraine
is often in the news for the wrong
reasons, western Lviv should be
in your travel plans for the right
ones. Its fairytale elegance could
be lifted straight out of the pages
of a Brothers Grimm story, and
with Ryanair launching flights
from Stansted, now’s the chance
to write your own adventure.
Christianity has long shaped
the city here, with churches of all
flavours peppering Lviv. From
the rococo ambition of St George
Cathedral (Greek Catholic) to the
pea-green domes of Assumption
Church (Orthodox), to the gothic
leer of the Roman Catholic Latin
Cathedral, each deserves a look
– especially the wall paintings
in the Armenian Cathedral.
Many of these buildings line
the UNESCO-listed Old Town,
a walkable web of courtyards,
medieval alleys, buzzing cafés
and museums. But the city’s
storied facades – a legacy of
its wealthy Habsburg heyday –
lend themselves to a slow pace.
The same goes for Lviv’s green
pockets. Stroll the tree-lined
Prospekt Svobody (Freedom
Avenue) or even the Lychakivs’ke
Cemetery, where grand funereal
monuments rise up like exhibits
in a giant outdoor museum. It’s
this languid vibe that sets Lviv
apart, as you stroll a city as
storied as it is compelling.
Where to stay?
Leopolis Hotel is close
to Rynok Square. Doubles from
€130 (£115); leopolishotel.com
Get there now!
Ryanair begins thrice-
weekly flights from London
Stansted to Lviv from 2 Nov.
From £47 return; ryanair.com
Or how about this…
VLM will fly daily from
Stansted to Ostend-Bruges,
Belgium, from 1 Oct. From
£78 return; flyvlm.com
British Airways will fly four
times a week to Marrakech from
London Heathrow from 28 Oct.
From £100; britishairways.com

■ FILM ■ GEAR ■ TV

4 SEE THIS...
Keeping Faith
BBC iPlayer, out now
5 BUY THIS...
Rohan Women’s Malay shirt
£65; www.rohan.co.uk
6 STREAM THIS...
Blue Heart
iTunes, 21 August
To be honest, we’ve been Finding a travel garment that fits On the face of it, hydropower
guilty of gazing more at the all occasions is easier said than is clean energy. But new
handsome lands of done. But Rohan may just have documentary Blue Heart,
Dreamstime; BBC Pictures; Andrew Burr/Blue Heart

Carmarthenshire than trying to
solve this fine mystery drama.
Can you really blame us when the wild Vale of
Glamorgan and the Norman ruins in Laugharne
– of Dylan Thomas fame – look so good? Small
screen proof that epic vistas lie on our doorstep.
cracked it with its Malay shirt,
which looks equally at home off
the beaten track or at a classy restaurant. A linen
blend reduces the usual creasing (perfect for
formal moments) and it’s quick-drying and
breathable, too – ideal for when out on the road.
produced by gear firm
Patagonia, starkly shows how
these projects can threaten Europe’s ecosystems
– by diverting wild waters – and impact on the
wildlife and communities that have long -thrived
on the banks on the Balkans’ beautiful rivers.

Wanderlust September 2018 | 15

 360˚ Need to Know
7 SIMON REEVE IS ON THE ROAD
■ Five Minutes With...
More used to exploring the world, the much-loved TV traveller is staying closer to home this autumn, taking
his theatre show – featuring inspiring tales from his adventures in more than 120 countries – around the UK
You’re travelling around the UK this
time – that’s quite unusual for you.
I’ve travelled around the country a bit –
perhaps more than most – but not as much
as I’d like. The BBC has always said my niche
is travelling abroad, and if it works, it works.
I’ve generally gone with it.
Your tour covers everywhere from
Exeter to Edinburgh – will you throw
in a few microadventures, perhaps?
I love the microadventure idea. I think we
have to squeeze every drop of life out of our
short time on this planet. It’s tricky when
you’ve got children but we’ve given it a good
go, with bivvy bags and wild camping.
Maybe I should be doing a microadventure
after my event in Dundee; maybe I should
get out into the Highlands. You’ve put the
seed of possibility there now!
What do you hope people take away
from your show?
A willingness to be pushed a little bit further
out of their comfort zones. The tour is
going to be about why people should travel:
life is shockingly short and we’re living
during a golden age of travel. People should
take the chance, as much as they can, to fill
their lives with a bit of meaning, with soul,
with a journey.
What has been your own moment of
pure travel bliss?
The one that’s leaping into my head is
looking over Lake Nakuru in Kenya, which
is home to about a million flamingos. I was
BBC Countryfile
16 | Wanderlust September 2018
ago. On the plane flying out, there were
“Take the chance, as much as some Brits who were saying: oh flipping
you can, to fill your life with heck, maybe if you’re going, we shouldn’t
be going there on holiday!
meaning, with a journey”
An Audience with Simon Reeve tours the
UK from September to November 2018,
with a guy and a guard who were telling me with more dates in March and April
so much information that, to this day, helps 2019; see www.simonreeve.co.uk
form my thoughts about conservation,
human encroachment on wild areas and the
value of tourism. It was like having the best
lecturers while in one of the most beautiful
locations on the planet.
What else have you been up to lately?
Filming a series called The Mediterranean.
We’ve gone from Malta on an anticlockwise
journey around one of the most important
patches of water on the planet, the sea
around which endless civilisations have
risen and fallen. A few people have said to
me that it sounds a little bit tame compared
to the other series. But I tell you, we’ve had
some extreme situations: from visiting
the Gaza Strip to crawling down a Mafia
escape sewer in southern Italy while on
a surveillance mission with Italian special
forces. Very eventful so far.
And you’ve been writing an
autobiography at the same time?
Yes. It will be called Step by Step. There will
be a few stories in there but a lot of it is
about growing up and the challenges
that I faced. When I left school,
things got very dark. I found
myself very unsure about what
I was going to do and whether
I could go on – I had a lot of
counselling when I was a
teenager. It was quite cathartic
to go through it all; I’m keen
for people to know that there
are ways out.
And finally, do people
get worried when they
recognise you in a place?
I did get that filming in
Cyprus a couple of months
 360˚ Need to Know

8 UK
■ What’s On

EVENTS
EXPLORING BELIZE
London, 5 September
www.wanderlust.co.uk/ExploringBelize

9 An adventure is
Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington ■ Read This...
Gore, SW7 2AR. See online for more details
and to register for tickets.

what you make it

Join Wanderlust and the Belize Tourism Board
for a fun and informative evening. Belize has
something for every modern-day explorer; the
compact country not only boasts the world’s
second-largest reef but also magical Maya
ruins, exceptional wildlife and a melting pot of
cultures. Learn more about beautiful Belize
with us over a glass of wine and some snacks. This month’s bookshelf yearns for the open tundra

AN EVENING WITH MICHAEL PALIN
London, 20 September
www.rgs.org
Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington
Gore, SW7 2AR. 7.30pm. Tickets from £30
(plus booking fee and VAT). Book online.
The telly globetrotter explores the fascinating
history and stories behind HMS Erebus, a ship
that became famous for several expeditions
to the polar regions during the 19th century.
Palin’s research took him to Tasmania, the
Falkland Islands and the Canadian Arctic,
where he experienced the harsh conditions
that the crew would have faced. Plus, the
ticket price includes a signed copy of his
resulting book, Erebus: The Story of a Ship.
WILDLIFE AND SAFARI TRAVEL SHOW
Harrogate, 29–30 September
www.wildlifesafarishow.com
Harrogate Convention Centre, Kings Road,
Harrogate, HG1 5LA. Day tickets from £8;
weekend tickets from £12. Evening events
cost extra. Book online, or see p3 for how
to get a 25% discount on tickets.
T
he spirit of adventure clings to this
month’s bookshelf, like morning
mist over a British river. First into the
water is Matt Gaw, who paddles his
homemade canoe through the UK’s waterways
to get an intimate view of a wild island. The Pull
of the River (Elliott & Thompson, £15) draws in
the people, wildlife and literature that colour
those channels and turns them into fresh
inspiration to do a little meandering yourself.
Will Buckingham engages with a very
different culture at the end of his boat trip:
the villages of Indonesia’s Tanimbar Islands.
Stealing with the Eyes (Haus Publishing, £15)
sees the former anthropologist recount his life-
pivoting encounters with a superstitious,
storytelling people on the verge of big change.
Finding genuinely off-the-beaten-track
places is tricky in this day and age. Beyond
the Map (Aurum Press, £10; paperback) takes
Alastair Bonnett even further off the charts,
discovering lost places, ambitious ideas and
geographic anomalies – some of which are
definitely visitable if you fancy adding
something a little unusual to your itinerary.
And talking of unusual: Norths (Conundrum
Press, $20/£15) is a collection of 180 postcards,
each drawn and written by Canadian artist
Alison McCreesh to mark every day of her
journey – with young family in tow – above
the 60th parallel. Taking in Russia, Canada,
Iceland and Greenland among other places,
it’s a delightfully detailed insight into
travelling and living at the top of the world.

Meet a wealth of expert travel companies,

with conservationists on hand to chat about
green initiatives and tours, and a host of free
talks. There’s even a Virtual Reality Theatre for
nose-to-snout encounters without leaving
10 Has your opinion of Russia now changed?
■ The Big Debate

With concerns pre-tournament of violence and oppression, the FIFA World Cup in
the building. Extra evening talks with Monty Russia ran smoother than expected. So, are you now more likely to pay it a visit?
Halls (28 Sep) and A Really Wild Evening In

YES NO
Conversation With… (29 Sept) cost extra.

WANDERLUST WORLD GUIDE AWARDS

London, 4 October
www.worldguideawards.com
Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington Gore,
SW7 2AR. Doors open 6.30pm; ceremony from
7.15pm. £5 (including a drink). Book online.
Meet with the planet’s best guides and hang
out with the judges – including the lovely Bill
Bryson – and the Wanderlust team at our
annual World Guide Awards. Find out who
has won the coveted Gold award – receiving
a bursary of £5,000 – and enjoy a free drink
afterwards (covered in the cheap-as-chips
ticket price). This year, we’ll also be celebrating
Wanderlust’s 25th birthday, with a peek back
at the last quarter of a century of our history.
Tom Bourlet, Wanderlust reader
“I was quick to judge Russia
based on media reports and travel
warnings. However, following the unbelievable
reception at the 2018 World Cup and the warm
treatment by local Russians, who were proud to
welcome tourists, it inevitably sneaked onto my
radar as a potential destination. With shots of the
Kremlin, Lake Baikal and St Petersburg shown
throughout the tournament, we got to see
a beautiful and mystical side to this country.
It is now firmly on my bucket list.”
Lucy Smith, Wanderlust reader
“I’ve visited Russia previously, so
I knew what the country had to
offer and my positive opinion hasn’t changed.
When my friends and I visited Moscow for a girls’
weekend, we never thought the trip would be
so topical eight years later. Having watched the
World Cup, it brought back brilliant memories and,
if anything, I actually feel even more inspired to
return to this majestic and imposing city. I loved
its fairytale architecture, green spaces and lively
nightlife – a must-visit city in my opinion.”

Wanderlust September 2018 | 17

360˚ Need to Know
KNOW YOUR…
■ Instant Expert
SWAZILAND
11 The land-locked African country has been given a new name to mark 50
years of independence, and there’s no better time to see its wild sights
A
s Britain’s colonial grip on Africa
loosened in the 1960s, the newly
independent nations set about
rewriting the continent. Rhodesia
became Zimbabwe, Nyasaland turned into
Malawi and Bechuanaland became Botswana.
But even after Swaziland threw off its British
shackles in 1968, it kept its name – until now.
In April, King Mswati III declared that it
would henceforth be known as the Kingdom
of eSwatini (eh-swah-teeny), to mark 50 years
of independence as well as the king’s own
50th birthday. What better time to visit?
What’s in a name?
For locals, ‘Swaziland’ was an uncomfortable
mix of Swazi and English; eSwatini means
‘place of the Swazi’ in the country’s native
tongue. King Mswati III had mentioned the
18 | Wanderlust September 2018
new title sporadically before announcing
the change officially. He also claimed that
one motive was Swaziland was often
confused with Switzerland – well, it must
have happened to someone…
How can I join in?
In the royal capital of Lobamba lies the King
Sobhuza II Memorial Park, a tribute to the
titular monarch who led the country’s fight
for independence. It’s small in size, squeezing
in a 3m-tall bronze statue of the king, his
mausoleum and a museum dedicated to his
life, including his collection of classic cars.
Elsewhere, Somhlolo National Stadium
was built in 1968 to mark independence and
named after King Sobhuza I (also known as
Somholo), considered the nation’s founding
father. The stadium is at the centre for the
A country by
any other name…
Traditionally dressed
Swazi women perform
the reed dance
country’s independence day (6 Sep), when it
fills with locals performing the sibhaca warrior
dance and even the king gets up for a jig or two.
What else can I see?
The Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary was founded
as the country’s first conservation area a few
years prior to independence. Nestled in the
Ezulwini Valley, it is swathed in forests and
grasslands, with the granite peak of Nyonyane
Mountain looming overhead. The wildlife is
the star here though, and hippos, blue
wildebeest and antelope all roam its plains.
But eSwatini’s big wildlife success story is
the rhino, with numbers rising, bucking the
global trend. You can spot white rhinos at
the country’s only national park, Hlane Royal
NP, alongside elephants and lions – the
perfect way to mark eSwatini’s new dawn.
Alamy
360˚ Need to Know
12 RIDE THE
■ Be Inspired
RAILS
T
here’s a certain
romance to rail travel.
Trains cut through
landscapes you may
otherwise be unable to reach,
often at speeds slow enough to
soak everything in. Some tour
operators base whole itineraries
around the world’s finest rides,
some use spectacular sections to
link historic, exotic, remote and
exciting spots. Here are nine
rich and varied railway
adventures for starters…
Picky
Traveller
Know when you want to travel
but don’t know where? Got
an activity you long to try
but not sure how? Try
Wanderlust’s Trip Finder:
mytripfinder.co.uk
20 | Wanderlust September 2018
1. Wales
Steam through Snowdonia
Take to the
tracks of
northern
Wales on Rail
Discoveries’
Railways of Wales 2019 tour. Hop
on the narrow-gauge Ffestiniog
Mountain Railway through rugged
Snowdonia National Park, skirt the
park’s foothills on the Welsh
Highland Railway and steam
alongside the River Dee aboard the
Llangollen Railway. Also visit
eccentric Portmeirion, travel by
horse-drawn barge and stay in the
lovely Victorian town of Llandudno.
Who: Rail Discoveries (01904
734939, raildiscoveries.com)
When: Selected dates
Mar-Oct 2019
How long: 6 days
How much: From £495 (excl flights)
2. Ecuador
Slice through the Andes
Ride some
recently
reopened and
scenically
dramatic
rails on Journey Latin America’s
Picaflor: Ecuador on Track trip.
Chug from the highs of the Andes
to the Pacific coast at Guayaquil,
via tropical lowlands, Otavalo’s
colourful market, the Avenue of the
Volcanoes and the switchbacks of
the Devil’s Nose (above), where the
train is powered by steam.
Who: Journey Latin America
(020 3811 6079,
journeylatinamerica.co.uk)
When: 4 Oct 2018, 13 Jun &
3 Oct 2019
How long: 10 days
How much: From £3,995
(incl flights)
3. Japan
View cherry blossom by train
See a bit of
everything
Japan has
to offer via
a range of
railways on Ffestiniog Travel’s
Jan Bloodworth/Rail Discoveries; Shutterstock; Richard James Taylor/Belmond Andean Explorer; Rolf M Sørensen/Visit Flam
Japan – Trains, Trams & Cherry
Blossom trip. Ride along the
black-sand Shonan Coast, take
the steam-hauled Tobu Railway to
Kinugawa Onsen, see blooming
trees from the historic Chichibu
Railway, hop on trams in Tokyo,
Fukui and Osaka, visit the Kaya
railway museum and end in the
tropical Okinawa archipelago.
Who: Ffestiniog Travel (01766
512400, ffestiniogtravel.com)
When: 19 Mar 2019
How long: 19 days
How much: From £4,995
(incl flights)
4. Namibia & 7. Peru
South Africa Appreciate the Inca by rail
Hop aboard the Shongololo Express
See a fine slice of
Join Jules Verne South America in
to trundle through style on Audley’s
Namibia by Private Luxury Peru by
Train. Traverse Rail: Cuzco, Machu
3,000km of epic: Picchu and Lake Titicaca tour. As well as
pass through the ancient Namib Desert, touring Lima, you’ll view the Sacred
spy wildlife in Etosha National Park, Valley from the Hiram Bingham train and
climb colossal dunes at Sossusvlei, peer head south aboard the opulent Belmond
into Fish River Canyon and traverse Andean Explorer.
South Africa’s Northern Cape and Karoo Who: Audley (01993 838620,
to reach the garden city of Pretoria. audleytravel.com)
Who: Jules Verne (020 3811 5962, When: Year round
vjv.com) How long: 12 days
When: 28 May 2018; 26 May 2020 How much: From £6,450 (incl flights)
How long: 14 nights
How much: From £4,895 (incl flights) 8. Spain & Morocco
Zip through North Africa
5. Scotland
Choose a classic Celtic chug Go overland to
Africa on Planet
Mix it up on Rail’s Morocco’s
Brightwater Imperial Cities by
Holidays’ A First Class Rail and
Classic Scottish Ferry trip. After city breaks in Barcelona
Steam Break. Ride and Córdoba, you’ll cross to Morocco,
the Jacobite steam loco from Fort utilising a new service – Africa’s
William to Mallaig (crossing Glenfinnan speediest train – to maximise your time
Viaduct), take a paddle steamer across in fascinating cities like Tangier, Rabat,
the Kyles of Bute and cruise the Casablanca and Marrakech.
Trossachs’ Loch Katrine by steamship. Who: Planet Rail (01347 825292,
Who: Brightwater Holidays (01334 planetrail.co.uk)
897348, brightwaterholidays.com) When: Year round
When: 23 Aug & 11 Oct 2018 How long: 14 days
How long: 4 days How much: From £1,495 (incl outbound
How much: From £595 (excl flights) rail and inbound flights)

6. Iran 9. Norway
Explore the Middle East in style Go from capital to coast by train

Access Iran’s finest Go Over the Roof

sights on Golden
Eagle Luxury
Trains’ Heart of
Persia trip. Visit
the magnificent mosques, shrines and
palaces of Tehran, Isfahan and Mashhad,
head into the Shahdad Desert, explore
ancient Yazd and the UNESCO-listed
ruins of Persepolis, soak up the culture
of Shiraz and ride a pilgrimage train
through the Alborz Mountains.
Who: Golden Eagle Luxury Trains (0161
928 9410, goldeneagleluxurytrains.com)
When: 8 Oct 2018, 30 Mar & 13 Oct 2019
How long: 14 days
How much: From £13,395 (excl flights)
of Norway with
Discover The
World. Soak up
the sites of capital
Oslo before riding the Bergen Railway
– considered one of the world’s most
scenic train trips – to Myrdal. Disembark
here for the dramatic switchbacks of the
Flamsbana Corkscrew Railway, then
explore the waterfalls, fjords, peaks and
cafes of pretty Flam and Bergen.
Who: Discover The World (01737
886131, discover-the-world.co.uk)
When: Aug-Nov 2018
How long: 6 nights
How much: From £1,042 (incl flights)

MORE ONLINE Have these trips got you thinking? See more incredible rail rides at: wanderlust.co.uk/189
Cambodia
BRAVE
NEW DAWN
Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains region is one of the
country’s last true wildernesses, and a new eco-camp
is ensuring we’ll still be able to see it for years to come…
WORDS MARK STRATTON

One and only

The Cardamom
Mountains are home
to great biodiversity,
but has long been under
threat from human folly
Cambodia

24 | Wanderlust September 2018


L
ike a modern-day Noah’s Ark, the animals
were delivered to a promised land free from
the evils of man. The boatman tethered our
craft to a muddy bank on the Preak Tachan
River. The rangers and Cambodian Ministry
of Environment officials hauled a menagerie
of rescued wildlife ashore: eight caged
macaques and rice sacks wriggling with
pythons, monitor lizards and tiny tortoises
ensconced within their carapaces.
Beyond the forest edge lay a natural grassland clearing called
a veal. The macaque cages were heavy, and the rangers sweated
as the monkeys within fretted wild-eyed at what might happen
next. These animals had been rescued
from human captivity and assessed for
release at a government facility called
Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre,
‘The released
near Phnom Penh. macaques scrambled to
the highest boughs to
“They’re the lucky ones,” said
a khaki-uniformed official. “They
savour their freedom’
had been trafficked to become Chinese
and Vietnamese ‘special food’.” He
gestured to the head of a macaque.
“Monkey brains,” he qualified.
We dispersed the animals to the four corners of the veal. Knotted
pythons crawled from the sacks, uncoiling to reveal underbellies of
golden rings. I stroked the silky back of the largest one as it rustled
across the crispy fallen leaves. It turned and dared me to do it again.
The monitors sprinted like a jailbreak escape and I placed the tiny
tortoises under a tree, imagining they’d still be there by morning.
Previous spread Alamy This Spread Mark Stratton
Cambodia
Finally, the macaques were released simultaneously and we stood
back. The young females scrambled to the highest boughs to savour
their freedom, as a heavyset male delivered a withering glare at his
rescuers. I hoped they would never endure human cruelty again.
The release happened on the second of my four days inside
the 1,712.5 sq km Botum Sakor National Park in south-western
Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains, an hour’s drive from the Thai
border. The park is part of a network of protected areas spanning
rainforests, cloudforests, grasslands, swamplands and mangroves.
It’s a biodiversity hotspot, home to threatened species such as
clouded leopards and the country’s few surviving wild elephants.
I wasn’t just surrounded by wild hilly forests and olive-green
rivers, though. Visible, too, were signs of the capricious
exploitation of one of Cambodia’s last
wildernesses. But this was why I was
here: to see how a few dedicated people
and a new eco-camp are offering not
only fresh hope to a remote area that
has for so long been at the mercy of
humans, but a chance for travellers
to see it for themselves.
The good fight
From the moment I set off for
Cardamom Tented Camp I became part of the battle to save
it. ‘Your Stay Keeps the Forest Standing’, cries their motto. In
context, Cambodia has lost over 17,500 sq km of forest since 2000
as government and local corruption facilitated its exploitation,
even within so-called ‘protected landscapes’ where concessions
are granted to loggers and commercial ventures. Within Botum ⊲
Back to the wild
Releasing captured
macaques and (left)
pythons that were
otherwise destined
for Chinese markets
Wanderlust September 2018 | 25
If you go down to
the woods today…
(clockwise from this)
A golden orb spider
waits in the bush; hiking
from Preak Tachan
Ranger Station with one
of the wildlife rangers;
a long-tailed macaque
lingers in the trees;
a stork-billed kingfisher
waits patiently

⊳ Sakor, the Cambodian government set aside 180 sq km of the
JW Concession for tourism. But it’s not the only concession inside
the park. JW lies between a Chinese block to the north that is being
cleared for commercial use, while to the south a Thai businessman is
developing rubber. On the park’s fringes, along the Gulf of Thailand,
a new luxury Chinese resort also includes a casino and airport.
Cambodia’s wildlife is similarly
‘I saw flourishing
besieged. If the possession of wild
tigers – officially declared lost to
Cambodia in 2016 – and the use of bear
body parts in ghoulish remedies are vines of peppercorns,
historic problems, pangolins, which are
also prized in Chinese medicine, are buffalo in lotus ponds
now firmly in the crosshairs of local
poachers. It’s just one of many
and wooden dwellings
problems Cardamom Tented Camp
hoped to address when it opened in
built high on stilts’
November 2017 inside JW Concession.
“We were told by the government to do something for tourism
or risk losing the concession, so the camp was built,” said wildlife
crusader Suwanna Gauntlett, CEO and founder of the NGO
Wildlife Alliance. I called by their headquarters upon arriving in
Phnom Penh; they can arrange tours to the Phnom Tamao Rescue
Centre, which wouldn’t exist without their expertise and funding,
but then again, neither would much of the Cardamom Mountains’
wildlife that they have worked tirelessly to protect.
Mark Stratton; Allan Michaud
Suwanna recalled a time in the late 1990s when her organisation,
which was already operating in Burma, was desperate to get into
the Cardamoms after decades of war there: “It was being heavily
logged and the wildlife situation was terrible. As soon as it was safe
Cambodia
Out of Africa
Cardamom Tented
Camp almost looks
like it belongs on an
African savannah
to enter, we persuaded the government to work with us on enforcing
animal protection,” she explained. “Animals were being sold openly
on the streets of Phnom Penh by poachers and traffickers.”
She established a Wildlife Rapid Rescue Team in 2000 to enforce
statutory law, and has since created a network of stations across
hills patrolled by 114 rangers. “In the first five months we rescued
4,000 animals,” she told me.
“We estimate now to have saved
65,000 animals and confiscated
30 tonnes of bushmeat.”
A river runs through it
I set off the following morning for
the camp, leaving behind Phnom
Penh’s chaotic traffic. The four-hour
road trip to Trapeang Rung village in
Koh Kong Province initially crosses
an unattractive landscape along an
industrialised freeway that was littered with rubbish and Chinese
factories. “They pay bad wages,” complained my taxi driver in
broken English. “People stay poor.”
Closer to the Cardamoms, the journey brightened amid the
increasing green of the forest. Out of my window I saw flourishing
vines of peppercorns, buffalo in lotus ponds and wooden dwellings
built high on stilts. Then the road split at a junction to the Thai
border and Sihanoukville’s beach resorts. I was getting close.
At Trapeang Rung, camp manager and wildlife photographer
Allan Michaud was waiting for me. He had been living in Cambodia
for 17 years and his Francophone surname belied his Orpington
origins. “I’m a serious tree hugger,” he proudly announced. ⊳
Wanderlust September 2018 | 27
‘The route to the ranger station was
adventurous – one channel constricted
to just several metres wide’
⊲ Guests access Cardamom Tented Camp via a 40-minute river
journey, and we were soon careering around a looping meander by
fast boat to join the Preak Tachan River. The shallow murky-brown
flow prompted Allan to apologise: “It’s usually crystal clear but they
have been clearing hillsides to the south, so the water is silty. The
government is flogging off concessions to everybody and we’re
sandwiched in between,” he said with all the venom of the cobras
found throughout these forests.
But all seemed well here. We sped past densely forested
riverbanks of spiky rattan palms and melaleuca trees with blotchy,
peeling bark. “There’s been logging but the concession is well
protected by the rangers. I’ve spent a lot of time in Cambodian
forests and it had been a long while since I hadn’t heard chainsaws
28 | Wanderlust September 2018
revving 24/7,” narrated Allan. As we sped through the water, I was
eager to see just what had been created here.
Deep in the forest
A small jetty poking into the river marked where the camp lay
secreted behind a veil of riverbank foliage. I clambered on land
to find stone steps leading to an open-sided wooden restaurant-bar,
from where boardwalks spread outwards to nine white safari-style
canvas tents on wooden platforms. These were arranged around
the forest edge, bordering knee-high grassland, and I felt as if I were
in the African savannah. My tent housed a large, comfortable bed
and came with an attached outdoors shower that had solar-heated
hot water on demand. As my resident tokay (a spotted gecko) dined

on light-dazzled moths, I stood on my veranda and imagined
elephants moseying out of the forest to browse the grasslands.
Besides total solar power, the eco-credentials of the camp were
impeccable: the boardwalk was fashioned from a local fast-growing
wood, guests received refillable water flasks to avoid plastic, grey
water was reused and sewerage was purified by soak-a-way ground
filtering. The camp even sourced its own local produce, including
plump prawns the size of langoustines. “If the camp packed up
tomorrow, you’d never know it had been here,” noted Allan.
Utilising the genes of an ancestor who was a French chocolatier,
Allan had even taught his local female chef to make desserts like
gooey chocolate lava cake, which she made with aplomb one night
Allan Michaud
to follow some more traditional Khmer amok (steamed-fish curry).
Cambodia
Paddle power
The best way to see the
JW Concession is by
water – after all, it is
a 40-minute fast boat
just to get to the camp
I spent little time in my tent, however, and was soon venturing
onto the river and into the steamy rainforest as often as possible. The
default activity was to visit Preak Tachan Ranger Station, which lay
several kilometres upriver. To get there, we took our kayaks out onto
the languid water. The route was an adventurous one, as we explored
choked tributaries never paddled before. One unnamed channel
constricted to just several metres wide, and we were in and out of
our kayaks, hauling them over rocks and limboing under spiky
fallen logs, as we made our way slowly upriver, while resident blue
butterflies – swarms of them – fed on our gathering perspiration.
The slow-drifting kayak to Preak Tachan Station was effortless
and we soon arrived at the ranger’s blue hut, staffed by a team of
six on duty and led by head ranger Chum Sokheng. Dressed in 
Wanderlust September 2018 | 29
Cambodia
Flora & fawner
Kayaks took us deep
into the concession,
down channels no
one has ever explored
⊳ his camouflage fatigues, Sokheng explained how the battle was
being won to protect JW’s wildlife. He showed me netting used
to snare pangolins as well as confiscated homemade wooden
rifles – primitive, almost like flintlocks – spiteful wire snares and
seized chainsaws. Covering 180 sq km, his team has been remarkably
successful in tackling the persistent human menace.
“In the first year we confiscated over 2,000 snares, and by 2017
it was 300,” said Sokheng.” There’s no logging now and we rarely
see poachers,” he added, as if lamenting the thrill of the pursuit. “If
poachers have killed larger animals, we take them straight to jail.”
Sokheng had seen elephants here just twice. The NGO Golden
Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation (GTAEF), who part-fund the
rangers, estimate that around 400 to 600 elephants remain across
Cambodia, with just 200 in the Cardamoms. A wildlife corridor has
been negotiated with the Thai rubber plantation to try to mitigate
damage to elephant migration routes. I wondered how he felt about
overseas companies being handed his country’s forests: “We don’t
like it, but what can we do when the government gives it away?”
30 | Wanderlust September 2018
The rangers maintain forest trails that
were once used by poachers and loggers but
are now signposted for guests. One trail
wound back to camp through a squeeze
of vine-snagged trees and spiky palms
buckling under bromeliads and throttled
by climbing figs. Golden orb spiders – huge
ones, like small plates in diameter – spinned
saffron-coloured webs and the birdcall was
redolently sweet from unseen songsters
amid the denseness.
“You won’t see a lot of wildlife, as much
of it was slaughtered during the war, but
it’s out there,” reminded Allan.
His assertion was backed by images from
camera traps set up in the Cardamoms. Rare
treasures have been recorded here, from
near-mystical clouded leopards to endemic
wild dogs that resemble foxes and are known
as dhole. I was even shown claw marks on a
tree trunk scratched by an Asiatic black bear.
Looking to the future
After the wildlife releases, my next two days
were spent kayaking and looking for suitable
sites to build bird hides. Allan and I departed
camp one morning at 4.30am to track elusive
green peafowls, driven expertly up the river
in the pitch dark by Mr Hit. The camp has
a strong commitment to local employment.
“Mr Hit is one of the poorest members of
the local community, and when I employed
him, his face lit up,” remembered Allan.
The peafowls remained elusive but we
encountered a large serpent eagle. “I once
saw one try to take off with a two-metre
snake in its talons, but it could scarcely
get off the ground,” Allan continued.
On another jungle hike along the river’s
opposite bank, we got close to some pileated
gibbons uttering unnaturally high bubbling
whoops that sounded like they were calling
underwater. Mind you, I wasn’t nearly so
enthusiastic about the leeches and decided
at the end of the sweltering trail to swim
– fully clothed – across the refreshing river and back to camp in an
attempt to drown them. Leeches, I discovered to my dismay, have
a tenacious capacity for holding their breath.
With no compulsion to seek larger, showier mammals, I found
intense satisfaction in the minutiae of this sparkling forest. We
explored a trail around the camp by torchlight one night, to a throaty
cacophony of barking sambar deer. Beetles glinted like metallic
broaches, bracket fungus bore patterns like the rings of Saturn,
a curious planthopper nymph resembled a magnified snowflake
and pinprick eyes left me wondering what exactly was watching us.
I’ve stayed in many eco-camps and lodges over the years and
sometimes felt that the wilderness they inhabit would have been
better off had they not been built. Yet this small camp on the river
encapsulated hope; a chance that the future for Cambodia’s wildlife
and forests might be brighter than its past. For travellers going from
Thailand to Sihanoukville, it is an essential stopover, and as we sped
Allan Michaud
back to Trapeang Rung by riverboat, Allan’s words rang in my ears:
“We simply have to succeed here.” For all our sakes, I hope they do.
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 Cambodia Footnotes
VITAL
STATISTICS
Capital: Phnom Penh
Population: 15.75 million
Language: Khmer, but most young
people speak English these days.
Time: GMT+7
International dialling code: +855
Visas: Required by UK nationals, and can
be purchased at international airports or
land border crossings on arrival, or online
(evisa.gov.kh) for US$30 (£22) in advance.
Money: Cambodian riel (KHR), currently
around KHR5,365 to the UK£. However,
US dollars (US$) are widely accepted.
When to go
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
The Cardamom Tented Camp is open
year-round; conditions are hot and humid.
■ Monsoon season – heavy rains
(particularly Sept and Oct) and flooding
may curtail some activities. Of the
activities identified thus far, staff can
take guests to stork nesting sites.
■ Dry season – hot and sunny, with
firefly-watching boat trips from Nov to
Jan, when temperatures are also ideal.
Health & safety
Tropical climates present health
issues that need to be protected against.
Visit your GP or travel clinic to see what
is required. Be warned: Cambodia has
very poor medical facilities for travellers.
It would be ill-advised to wander off into
the jungle alone due to the potential
danger of wartime UXB and venomous
snakes. Carry a sterile dressing for leech
bites; they can be messy, if painless.
Further reading
& Information
Cambodia (Lonely Planet, 2016)
www.wildlifealliance.org – NGO
https://yaana-ventures.com –
YAANA Ventures, tour operator,
http://helpingelephants.org – Golden
Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation
More online
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/189
for links to more content
ARCHIVE ARTICLES
♦ Preah Vihear: Lost and Found – issue 179
♦ Mahendraparvata: The Hunt for the Holy
Mountain – issue 140
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Alamy
PLANNING GUIDES
♦ Cambodia travel guide
THE TRIP
The author stayed at Cardamom Tented
Camp (www.cardamomtentedcamp.com;
+855 966 410783), which offers three-day
packages from US$345pp (£260) and
four-day trips from US$465pp (£350),
including round-trip transfers, all meals
and activities. The camp is a collaborative
project between the Wildlife Alliance,
who have provided ranger patrols for the
past five years in the JW Concession;
YAANA Ventures, who designed it and are
responsible for its operations; the Golden
Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation
(GTAEF), who part-fund the rangers; and
a Thai-based hotelier, the Minor Group.
Tours of Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue
Centre are offered by the Wildlife Alliance
(www.wildlifealliance.org), with a minimum
donation of US$150pp (£113). They also run
a ‘Be a ranger for a day’ programme to see
life on patrol; prices given on request.
Getting there
The author flew with EVA Air
(www.evaair.com; 020 7380 8300) from
London Heathrow to Bangkok; daily flights
take around 11.5 hours and start from £551.
From there, Air Asia (www.airasia.com) has
one-hour flights from Bangkok to Phnom
Penh that cost from £70 return.
The camp can arrange transfers from
Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville or Koh Kong to
Trapeang Rung, from where a connecting
boat departs for the camp. In Thailand,
Bangkok Airways (bangkokair.com) flies
to Trat, where guest may also be collected.
Some long-distance buses between Phnom
Penh and Koh Kong also stop at Trapeang
Rung, taking around four hours.
Getting around
Within JW Concession, all travel is
by river, whether by kayak or long-tailed
speedboat. Cambodia has limited rail
services but a good network of inter-city
buses. In cities, motodop bike-taxis or
tuk-tuks are quick and cheap.
Cost of travel
As the camp is pretty much
all-inclusive, barring any extras such
as drinks, you will require little cash.
Cambodia is also cheap to travel
around; a decent hotel for a night in
Phnom Penh will set you back less than
£20. Eating out in Phnom Penh is very
cheap, too, with main meals from as little
as £2. A taxi transfer from Phnom Penh
Airport to downtown is about £8.
Accommodation
Vacation Boutique Hotel (Phnom
Penh, www.vacationboutiquehotel.com)
epitomises good value, although it’s
hardly boutique. Still, the large, modern
rooms are located close to the riverfront;
B&B doubles from KRH200,000 (£37)
Food & Drink amok, a fish-based spiced curry typically
It’s all too easy to get western food served in a banana leaf, or lap, a piquant
in Phnom Penh but try Khmer-style cuisine. salad drizzled with beef, lime and chillies.
This not only differs greatly from Thai and
Vietnamese cooking but offers up some
glorious flavours. Sample classics such as
There are plenty of noodles and baguettes
to go around, while the red curry is fragrant
and creamy with coconut milk.
CAMBODIA’S BIG FIVE
Cambodia has high levels of biodiversity,
particularly in its forest mammals.
However, it has also lost key species
over recent decades, including the
Indochinese tiger, which was last seen
in 2007, and the Cambodian wild ox,
known as kouprey, last sighted in 1988.
But the Cardamom Mountains is one of
the last refuges for its rare Big Five…
1 Sun bear
These tree-climbers are the world’s
smallest ursine. With their trademark black
fur and distinctive markings, making it look
as though they sport a gold necklace.
2 Dhole
The dhole is a small wild dog with
vulpine features that weighs less than
20kg. The WWF classifies them as rare in
Cambodia, though their biggest threat now classed as an endangered species
is not from poachers but domestic dogs. here. Typically, they are smaller than their
3 Clouded leopard
This elusive cat is relatively small and
African counterparts but still weigh in at
a pretty hefty 5,000kg. Sightings are rare.
nocturnal. The IUCN considers the species
to be vulnerable but it has been caught on
camera traps in the Cardamom Mountains.
5 Sunda pangolin
Traffickers are hammering this small,
scaly anteater (pictured) into extinction,
4 Elephant
Around 400 to 600 Asian elephants
remain across Cambodia, but they are
driven by the profits to be made from
Chinese medicine. It’s an ongoing tragedy
that it is now considered rare in Cambodia.
THAILAND LAOS
Preah Vihear
RATANAKIRI
Phnom Ou Svay
Poipet Kulen
Stung Treng
Angkor Wat
Siem Reap
ve r
g Ri
Tonlé Sap MONDULKIRI
Mekon
Lake
Kampi
Koh Trong Kratie
Cardamom
Mountains
Trapeang Rung
PHNOM PENH VIETNAM
Cardamom
Tented Camp
Sihanoukville
3
0 100km
Gulf of Mekong Delta
T h a i l a nd
1100%
Wanderlust September 2018 | 33
 Solo Travel

As more travellers see the

advantage of solo adventures,
we look at the technology,

Me,
trips, tours and possibilities
making it easier than ever,
starting with Beth Armstrong’s

I
app-tastic Parisian escape

myself
and
“ S
o I’m off to
Paris…” I said, ‘One in nine travellers is jetting off on
slipping it
smoothly into
a solo escape – to follow whims, have
the school-
gate chatter,
adventures and meet new people’
“...on my own.”
Gasps. Mention Agents, one in nine travellers jetted off on allow a local to show you around their
of a post- a solo escape in the previous 12 months. But favourite haunts, typically in small groups.
divorce sojourn it goes beyond mere numbers. To get in And contrary to what they say, size is
was met with understanding nods, but that touch with our instincts, follow whims, have important; more intimate tours mean you
wasn’t really why I was visiting the French adventures and meet new people is good for blend in with locals better and can easily
capital. You see, anyone can embrace solo the soul; we return home full of the wonders engage in conversation.
travel, not just in youth but also in middle of the world and with a new sense of self and After two nights dining alone and retiring
age and beyond – and yes, even married excitement to share with those around us. early to French television, I bit the bullet and
(or divorced) folk. Initially it is daunting, though. To arrive booked my first experience: the Marquise’s
Taking time out for yourself, to become alone in a country where you don’t speak the Secret Jazz Club. Hidden a few metro stops
immersed in a new culture and language, language can be worrying the first time, but away in a stone cellar beneath a hip wine bar,
is the new normal. According to a 2017 technology is catching up with solo I watched a singer and jazz guitarist perform to
report by the Association of British Travel adventurers. Sites like Airbnb Experiences an audience of 20. It was the kind of night you

36 | Wanderlust September 2018

 Solo Travel

either knew about or you didn’t. I met other

English speakers, felt safe and not like the odd
one out, then stayed on at the bar to sample
some of its 50 wines by the glass.
Crowd-reviewed tour sites are a useful
resource for solo travellers; you get a feel for
what it’s like from other people’s experiences
and, just as importantly, you can see who else
has signed up. Often, there were five places
taken out of the six available, so I would just
slip in late and make up the numbers.
One day trip was with a young historian
who took an English woman and myself on
a tour of the Marais district on city share
bikes, showing us his secret Paris: hidden
gardens, graffiti, squares, architecture and
passageways. We finished with a drink and
a list of recommendations. Another night
I found myself with Pablo, who runs a music
festival; he cooked dinner for five of us in his
loft in the tenth arrondissement, before we
went to see a few bands at the kind of venues
that only the locals would know about.

Mapping my adventure
During my solo wanderings, GPS was my
saviour. I happily traipsed the streets of Paris
by day, listening to music on my phone, the
GPS cutting in to tell me to ‘take the next
right at Rue de whatever’ – Siri makes no
attempt at accents. I strode alleyways and
streets at a confident pace, making me feel
less of a target for opportunists and bypassing
those huddled over maps like shining tourist
beacons. Simply switching my GPS mode
from walking to public transport meant that
I could stride into a metro station knowing
which line to target without having to ask
directions in a panic or struggling to be
understood. But be sure to buy a battery phone
charger, so you can power up on the run.
Other apps, such as Meetup, offered all
manner of events and special interest groups
that brought me into contact with expats
and locals. I went to a theatre night in an old,
charming playhouse to see a subtitled
production of Cyrano de Bergerac. There
I met people of some 30 nationalities and
savoured a glass of wine and plenty of
chatter before the curtain call finally arrived.
In my downtime, I practised French on the
free app Duolingo and used Microsoft
Translator to photograph menus for instant
translation. I checked in with my family on
WhatsApp and felt youthful and whimsical
again, making decisions on the run and
Previous spread Getty This spread Alamy; Dreamstime
HAVE TECH WILL TRAVEL
Why smartphones may just be the solo traveller’s best friend
opening up a world of adventure, meet-ups and inside secrets…
For inspiration
Solo travel means more logistics,
simply because there’s no one else to do it.
If you’re stuck for research time or ideas,
apps such as the adventurous Outbound
(iOS) and more city-focused Peek Tours
& Activities (iOS) can be a boon. You can use
them to put together itineraries or book tours
that match the profile and interests you
enter, tailoring them for solo travellers.
For looking like you belong
If you’ve got no one to show you
around, try an audio city tour app like
TripScout (iOS/Android). This can map
out a route offline, so you can ditch the
guidebook (and looking like a tourist) and
learn as you stroll. Or try Cool Cousin
(iOS/Android), which puts you in touch
with streetwise locals, who will plot out
an itinerary of in-the-know hotpots; you
can even message them for ideas if stuck.
For meeting people
meet other solo adventurers, apps such
as Flip the Trip (iOS) and SoloTraveller (iOS/
Android) connect you with others nearby for
meet-ups or just idea-swapping. Heck, even
dating app Tinder (iOS/Android) works, so
long as you make it clear that you’re looking
for a travel buddy, or not…
For local flavour
Sites such as EatWith (iOS/Android)
and Feastly (eatfeastly.com) are part of
a growing breed of Airbnb-meets-dinner
companies, as locals in hundreds of cities
open up their kitchens to travellers. It’s great
for meeting others, and some even run the
odd cookery class, so you can wow people
back home with your new menu.
For practicality’s sake
TripWhistle Global SOS (iOS) is a great
just-in-case app, preinstalled with the
emergency numbers of 196 countries. It can
even share your location with authorities, if
needed, as a handy last resort. Equally useful

meeting travellers from afar and of all ages.
Best of all, it was an exhilarating confidence
boost that opened me up to new possibilities
in everyday life and the rewards of stepping
out of my comfort zone. When we’re younger
we have an innate sense of wonder and desire
to explore. There’s no reason to stop.
Meetup (iOS/Android) was designed
for locals looking to share interests and
find groups, but it has been adopted by the
travel community, too – Meetup theme
nights let you socialise, pick up tips and get
a taste of local life. Or if you’re looking to
are Maps.me and CityMaps2Go (both iOS/
Android), which both offer offline map
capabilities beyond Google’s data-sucking
blue dot. Or better still, just ask for directions
with Google Translate (iOS, Android) – you
might even make a new friend…
⊲

Wanderlust September 2018 | 37

 Travelling Solo
doesn’t mean travelling alone.
50% of our travellers travel solo Find your perfect trip
Our online Trip Finder searches a huge range
of trips from our directory of Wanderlust
approved tour operators.
Finding your perfect trip has
never been easier
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 Instantly see all recommend trips
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Book by 3 September 2018 and receive 15% off*

*Terms and conditions apply

Visit: explore.co.uk/WLsolo
Call: 01252 883 022

TripFinder strip_1/2 vertical_Greece-GBV1.indd 57 17/07/2018 19:16

Put your best foot

forward in 2018
Our walking trips combine some of the
finest natural backdrops with a rich slice
of local history and culture.
Walk in the mountains of Georgia
Follow biblical trails in Palestine
Discover the painted monasteries
of Romania
Explore the dramatic scenery
of Kyrgyzstan

Call 020 8741 7390 for more details or

visit wildfrontierstravel.com/walking
 5
⊳
steps to
going
solo
Whether you book an organised tour or travel
independently, there’s nothing to stop you going it
alone. Here’s how to make the most of what’s out there
1 Find a friendly welcome
The majority of us like meeting new
people, but it can be difficult. Booking an
organised small-group tour (typically
between eight and 16 people) cuts through
all that. Sharing the day’s experiences at
dinner is a rite of passage, especially on
safaris and cruises when there’s plenty to be
dissected. The same applies for trips where
you have to muck in; for example, active
sailing escapes are great for breaking down
barriers, as you’re all in it together. It’s no
surprise that, along with overland and rail
adventures, these trips attract the highest
number of solo travellers.
TOP TIP: It pays to ask operators beforehand
about the ratio of couples to singles on trips; you
may not feel comfortable being the only solo.
2 Embrace your niche
Special interest and active tours are
a good way to ensure that you’ll find an open
and accepting group – and maybe learn
a thing or two along the way. Such tours are
naturally bent towards the solo traveller;
after all it’s rare that a couple shares the
same obsession for tropical birding or
high-altitude trekking. A shared interest
tends to open people up more. It also leads
to plenty of adventures, from driving
Dreamstime; Getty; iStock
a team of huskies across Finland’s boreal
forests to photographing caribou in
the Arctic wilds of Canada.
TOP TIP: Active tours are not only
a good way to meet like-minded souls, but mean
you can travel further and deeper, especially on
trips where the logistics of a week’s hike or
kayaking mean that you can’t just travel light.
3 Do things to build
up your confidence
If you feel awkward eating out alone, make
that your first challenge. Bring something
practical to do, such as filling in a diary or
checking emails (a book can be isolating) and
don’t sit in a corner; a counter is better, as it
allows others to join you and for you to
chat to staff, who often have good
tips. Or you could go to a Meetup
event (see ‘Have Tech, Will reader tip
Travel’), walk a trail, strike up “For added security, take a in an unfamiliar place and
conversations. Remain open door wedge. You will 99.9% having to worry about safety
to adventure. Before long, it’ll not need it, but the difference or scams.
be your first instinct. it makes to your ability to
sleep is remarkable.”
TOP TIP: For your first solo trip,
pick somewhere easy to navigate or an
activity you’re familiar with (kayaking,
Michelle Paterson
cycling, etc) – it’ll help you get over the hump of
being alone in a new place.
4 Put yourself in other
people’s hands
If you’re travelling independently,
homestays, hosting websites (Airbnb, etc)
and hospitality exchange networks such as
couchsurfing can put you in the homes of
Solo Travel
local people happy to meet and share their
knowledge. It’s far friendlier than a hotel;
some hosts will even show you around. It
may also give you more confidence to meet
others. Once settled, there are lots of sites
and apps to put you in touch with locals (see
‘Have Tech, Will Travel’). Or just take your
newfound confidence and head out on your
own. Solo travellers can usually be squeezed
into local tours at the last minute (there’s
always space for one), so you’re more able to
do things on a whim.
TOP TIP: Try to arrange for someone to
pick you up at the airport or station,
especially if you arrive at night; it
saves on the stress of rolling up
5 Don’t pay
more because
you’re alone
Tours that factor in accommodation typically
base their rates on two people sharing
a room. When travellers book individually,
a fee is added to account for a single occupant:
the dreaded single supplement. We’ve heard
the arguments ad nauseam (basically:
hotels claim to lose money), but that doesn’t
make it any fairer, especially when single
rooms are rarely half the cost of a double
and often pretty pokey. Speak to the
operator and see if they’ll cut a deal or
hook you up with a partner in a shared
room. Alternatively, look for times outside
the school holidays when hotel capacities
are low and hoteliers are more likely to
waive added fees.
TOP TIP: Tour operators that exclusively
cater for solo travellers typically dispense
with single supplements, but not all do.
Check first and don’t assume. ⊳
Wanderlust September 2018 | 39
 Join us and special guests
including Bill Bryson
The heart-warming finale of The Wanderlust World Guide Awards 2018 takes place
at London’s Royal Geographical Society on 4 October 2018. Expect an evening
charged with emotion and humour, as we announce the winners and hear stories
told by past and present finalists plus special guests, including Bill Bryson. This year,
we’ll also be celebrating Wanderlust’s 25th birthday, with a peek back at the last
quarter of a century of our history – so join us for a drink!
Tickets are limited
Join us on the night for just £5 per ticket, which includes entry and a drink from the bar.

Book Online Now!

www.WorldGuideAwards.com
Kindly supported by

13th
YEAR

Single-minded
⊳
escapes
Botswana
Mobile participation safaris are becoming
more common in Botswana. They are a neat
way for solo travellers to keep down the cost;
also, the sense of everyone pitching in, doing
the washing up, putting up tents and packing
up the gear together is liberating and
bonding. It helps create a real sense of
camaraderie in the group, as you wind
through the wildlife-packed waters of the
Okavango Delta or spot the Big Five in the
national parks of Moremi and Chobe.
Zealand, Denmark
Flat Danish roads and ample cycle paths
(390km, no less) make peddling out of
Copenhagen, island-hopping past
Dreamstime
coastal forts and whizzing past shifting
Solo Travel
You’ve made up your mind, downloaded your apps
and packed your positive attitude. Now, where to go?
sands a delight. Cycling tours are common
here, or just hook up with a hospitality
exchange network such as Warmshowers.
org (which caters solely for cyclists) to stay
with friendly locals while picking up some
tips and advice along the way.
Nepal
Hiking trails are great places to find friendly
faces at the end of each day. Nepal’s
Annapurna Circuit, for example, can take
around three weeks or be done in easy
sections, but it’s the inclusive vibe along the
way that makes it ideal for solo travellers.
Whether you go with a group or hire a
porter, you’ll find teahouses bustling with
trekkers all swapping stories, while
homestays guarantee a cheery welcome. ⊳
Wanderlust September 2018 | 41
 Solo Travel
⊳ Komodo Islands,
Indonesia
Active escapes often mean you have
a ready-made community to dip in and out
of. On the outskirts of Komodo National
Park, scuba-diving classes or snorkelling
trips are a good way to gain either a new
skill or explore the coral triangle in the
company of those in the know. Together
with visits to see the park’s eponymous
lizards – a true hissing, breathing dinosaur
– it’s Bali without the crowds.
Belize
Make it easy on yourself. Central America’s
Belize is not only one of the few English-
speaking countries in this neck of the
woods, its comparatively petite size makes it
42 | Wanderlust September 2018
pretty easy to squeeze in a lot of the sites in
one go, from the great jungle-swamped
Maya temples of Lamanai and Caracol to the
largest barrier reef outside Australasia. A trip
here can help build your confidence before
exploring neighbouring Guatemala, too.
New Zealand
Few destinations cater to the last-minute
whims of solo travellers quite like New
Zealand. Feel like walking an epic trail? Go
do it – it’s much easier to get a last-minute
hut or camping space on its famous walks if
you’re on your own. Want to hurl yourself
off a cliff? Practically every rock has a bungee
cord attached. Or maybe you want to paddle
to an active volcano or cycle an old railroad?
Sorted. It’s the perfect solo escape.
Make going solo
an adventure
Tucan Travel have been
helping solo travellers on
their adventures for over
31 years. Here, Operations Executive,
Emma Nelson gives her top tips on how
to ensure your journey on your own
becomes the experience of a lifetime...
Step out of your comfort zone
Don’t be afraid. Travelling is all about
new experiences, so be brave and do
things you may not normally do. For
instance, stay in a family-run casa
particular in Cuba and practise your
Spanish; or in Oaxaca, Mexico, you
could sample the local grasshoppers
at the Benito Juarez Market.
Do your research
It’s always a good idea to read up
on your destination before you go,
whether that means poring over
Wanderlust or learning a few words
of the local language. Customs and
traditions vary all over the world, so
it’s good to be prepared. Solo travellers
should seek out safety advice – such
as which are the more risky areas, etc
– and should also research any extra
costs such as single supplements.
Have a bit of ‘me’ time
Whether relaxing in a Moroccan
hammam or taking a hike through
Torres del Paine National Park in
Chilean Patagonia, make sure you use
some time to reflect and relax. Leave
your stresses at the airport and use
your travelling time to just ‘be you’.
Go on a group tour
Going solo doesn’t have to mean that
you’re all on your own. A group tour is
a great way to make new friends as well
as giving you the chance to explore
new – and off-the-beaten track –
destinations with an expert guide
leading the way. Tucan Travel’s
tours in Colombia visit the ruins of
Tierradentro, which are very hard
to get to without a car (see p108 on how
to win a solo Colombia adventure) –
going with a group means you can
explore remote destinations with ease.
4CornersImages

Connect with
Sri Lanka’s rural roots
A stay at Jetwing’s hotel in Wellawaya promises eco-friendliness, a glimpse
of the past and a great base for exploring some of the country’s top sights…
O
n our adventures, we’re
increasingly searching
for ways to make our
travels greener. Sometimes,
though, going eco-friendly
can compromise on quality accommodation
– but that doesn’t always have to be the case.
At Jetwing Kaduruketha in Sri Lanka, you
get the best of both worlds. Nestled among
lush paddies in Wellawaya, it combines a
blast of luxury with immersion in local rural
life, as it works alongside the communities
that live nearby. It’s the perfect blend for the
green-minded traveller.
Village people
Your accommodation comes with a roll call of
deluxe amenities: private verandah, personal
butler and even complimentary bicycle hire
should you wish to explore the verdant
foothills on two wheels. But it’s the design of
each of the dwellings that’s particularly
striking, their aesthetics taking inspiration
from the Kandyan farming communities.
The bamboo and wood panelling replicate
the ancient village feel and also add natural
ventilation, the latter meaning there’s no
need for energy-sapping artificial air
conditioning. Its premier chalets (Wel Vidana
and Arachchi) are also crafted with an
open-plan layout, to plunge you deeper into a
surrounding landscape of rippling paddies,
thick forest and the rugged Poonagala
mountains. Everything at Kaduruketha has
been created with green energy in mind, from
the biogas stoves used to cook meals, to the
seed money paid to local rice farmers that
goes towards their cultivation expenses.
Loving local life
A big part of our travels are the experiences
that we have, and Kaduruketha offers a range
of activities, all of which take full advantage of
its traditional setting. With a focus on a rural
agri-lifestyle, there are many chances to
absorb the immediate environment. Try a
spot of organic gardening on the hotel’s own
farm, or spy the colourful celebrations of the
harvest festivals during the Maha and Yala
seasons, when the first batch of rice is offered
to the gods. Hikes to the Poonagala peaks
offer refreshing dips in the Elle Wala and
Diyaluma falls, too; the former offers exciting
For more information, visit www.jetwinghotels.com
Promotional feature
cycle routes while the latter boasts some wild
climbs through the savannah grasslands.
Further afield, Uda Walawe National Park
is renowned as a premier elephant-spotting
destination, while the Weheragala region of
Yala NP is one of the best places to spot the
elusive Sri Lankan leopard. Kaduruketha’s
immediacy to Sri Lanka’s Central Highlands
also means it’s a stone’s throw from several
other of the country’s great sights, too. The
hill village of Ella lies in prime tea country,
close to a diverse mix of icons such as the
conical Adam’s Peak, some great trails for
hiking and the cooling Ravana Falls.
All of this makes Jetwing’s Kaduruketha
hotel a must-stay on your next visit to Sri
Lanka. Eco-friendly, perfectly located and,
true to the region’s roots – it’s the ideal way
to immerse yourself in local life.
 THE
ULTIMATE
TRAVEL
EXPERIENCE Hitting highs
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53
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11
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 New Zealand

LEFT
EXCLUSIVE

OF THE
MIDDLE
(EARTH)
As New Zealand’s West Coast looks
to move on from its mining past, a new
Great Walk may offer a lifeline to one
of its forgotten communities. We take
an exclusive look at a trail in progress
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS PHOEBE SMITH

Looking ahead
Approaching the
Ces Clark Hut on the
Croesus Track, which
will form the first part of
the new Paparoa Track
that opens in April 2019
O
ver on the west coast
of New Zealand’s South
Island there is a town
that few know even
exists. Made up of
small clapboard houses,
wide and fairly empty
streets and a little
community of around
300 people, its name is
Blackball. I stood outside
a small building deep
within this tiny hamlet and looked up to a weather-beaten sign
that declared this to be ‘Formerly The Blackball Hilton’. Across
the road the curtains twitched. I felt like I was the only person
to have visited in about 40 years – which is possibly true.
Blackball was once a thriving mining community famed for its
strikes and union action in the early 1900s. But all that changed in
1964 with the closure of its last mine. Over the years that followed,
resident numbers decreased and Blackball became one of the South
Island’s forgotten townships. Until now. Because this settlement is
about to become the starting point for a brand new official Great
Walk – the tenth in New Zealand’s list of recommended and
designated hikes and the first new one for 25 years.
“It really came about because of the local families,” explained
Department of Conservation ranger Ben Hodgson, who I met in
nearby Greymouth, a 20-minute drive from Blackball. He explained
how, following the mining disaster in 2010 at the nearby Pike River
Mine, which saw the loss of 29 men, the community was keen to
create something positive to remember them by.
48 | Wanderlust September 2018
“The idea was to build an interpretation centre and walk to the
site, but it kind of grew into a three-day tramp that not only nodded
to the area’s mining past but was also a positive way to recall those
we’ve lost, and hopefully bring tourism to the area, too.”
Back in Blackball, I wandered into the yellow-and-red-painted
wooden hotel with my walking companion and kiwi native, Hanna.
“What kind of coffee do you have?” she asked the older, gruff-
looking man behind the bar. He looked at her as though she had
asked the question in French. “Latte? Flat white…?” she persisted.
“Black or white?” he replied, perplexed. She nodded her
understanding, ordered and we took a seat.
The hotel’s name, I learned from its owner, Cynthia, had been
changed to include the word ‘formerly’ in the 1990s, following
a lawsuit from the corporate chain of the same name. It resembled
less a pub and more a living room-cum-working men’s club,
complete with wry posters about miners, shovels stuck to the
wall, sepia photographs of dusty-faced men and mismatched
cushions scattered around (very comfy) chairs.
“The town doesn’t really know what’s coming,” explained
Cynthia as she showed me around the hundred-year-old hotel, its
floorboards creaking under my boots. “But I keep telling them that
this walk is a big deal; it will help revive the community. I’m adding
campervan parking; we’ll be putting on a shuttle to pick walkers up
from the end of the linear trail and bring them back to the start. It
could really be the making of Blackball – if we do it right.”
One foot in front of the other
Pleased to be starting a Great Walk from a truly characterful hotel
(rather than a faceless, monotonous chain), sharing drinks with
locals and without a coach party in sight, Hanna and I set off ⊲
What’s in a name?
Formerly The Blackball
Hilton doubles as the
town’s meeting place,
and serves good
old-fashioned beer and
(white or black) coffee
– but is that all about
to change?
 New Zealand

Turning a new leaf

Nikau palms sprout
amid the broadleaf
trees that make
the final leg of the 
Paparoa Track feel
almost subtropical

Wanderlust September 2018 | 49

 Fairy trails
(clockwise from this)
Garden Gully has pockets
of machinery that nod to
its mining past; ferns dot
the trails; curious fantails
follow in the wake of
walkers, hoping to catch
a tasty insect; bright blue
fungi; the Pancake
Rocks (Punakaiki) form a
dramatic geological finale
to the trail; a rare blue duck
– there are said to be only
five pairs here

50 | Wanderlust September 2018

 New Zealand

Coast with
the most
The rugged drama
of the West Coast’s
little-visited
northern reaches

⊳ on a high, making for the track that begins a few kilometres
north of the town at Smoke-ho car park.
Day one shares the route of the pre-existing Croesus Track,
which was originally created in 1881, during the mining boom, as
a pack road for horses and bullocks. It was built to allow access and,
crucially, transportation into the Paparoa range – the site of several
gold and quartz mines. Within just a few minutes of walking, we
were immersed in a verdant forest of beech trees and podocarp
conifers. The track was clear but rough
underfoot, our boots crunching
on the little stones that lined it.
The soundtrack was that of running ‘We walked in
water as we crossed the eponymous
creek several times on wobbly
contemplative silence,
suspension bridges that limited
the kind that only
We stopped around the halfway point during this five-hour
meander, resting at a pretty stream to eat and watch more fantails
emerge and fly boldly close to us. While Hanna enjoyed the
sunshine, I searched the undergrowth for examples of giant ferns
and came across an Entoloma hochstetteri mushroom, which was
so bright blue in colour that I thought it couldn’t possibly be real.
A little further up was the turn-off for a short detour to Garden
Gully. When this track was first forged in 1864, it was described by
its creators as traversing through ‘some
of the roughest country ever travelled
by man’. Thankfully, in the years that
followed, it was improved and is now
just an easy stroll to the hut of the same
name, which was built in 1903. Made
of corrugated iron and calico walls

scenery such as this

footfall to one hiker at a time. (which were replaced a little over ten
The thick, earthy scent of years ago), the structure is found in

tends to inspire’
ancient woodland filled our nostrils,
making me feel as though I was
amid a landscape so much older than
myself. We walked in contemplative
silence, the kind that only scenery such as this tends to inspire.
I felt as though something was following us, and jumped
momentarily as a bird flitted across the path in front of me.
It was a fantail (or piwaiwaka, as it’s known in Maori), named
after its long, white-edged rear feathers that do indeed fan out
when it perches on branches and calls out in a loud, chattering
sound. Our companion followed us for at least a kilometre as
we ascended the gentle slope uphill, feeding on the myriad
insects we disturbed as we walked.
a little clearing. When entering, it feels
as though you’re emerging through
a woodland portal and into another time.
Exploring nearby, I reached the fork
of Blackball Creek and startled a native – and supremely rare – blue
duck (aka a whio). Once found all over the country, due to habitat
loss, predation by introduced mammals and damming schemes,
their numbers are rapidly dwindling, with only five thought to
be in this particular region and less than 700 pairs on the entire
South Island. I regarded my endangered find curiously, watching
as he stared with yellow eyes. His grey feathers were speckled
brown on his chest and the tip of his beak sparkled a deep black,
as though it had been dipped in fresh ink. ⊲

Wanderlust September 2018 | 51

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⊳ Seeing a blue duck is a sign of a healthy water source, as they
need fast-flowing supplies with a healthy canopy above. Scientists
believe they are one of the world’s most ancient species, showing
features from the early stages of waterfowl evolution. Forget the
gold the miners sought, I mused, this was Paparoa’s real treasure.
Doing it right
Amid the wonderful wildlife, we were continuously confronted
with remnants of the human past,
from a battery site to old mine
entrances and rusted rails where
tramways would once have travelled. ‘The trail took us up and
It was funny to think that a place now
so peaceful – where we only passed over undulating hillside
a couple of other people who were
descending the trail on mountain bikes
covered in tussock
– was once a bustling hive of activity. grass, where elusive
kiwi roam at night’
A couple of hours later, we emerged
from the greenery and out onto open
hillside. When the Paparoa Track is
finished in 2019, the first stop will be
a newly built hut called Moonlight Tops. This was still under
construction when I visited, however, so we were destined instead
for the Ces Clark Hut, a 16-bunk cabin that overlooked not only the
forest through which we’d wandered but Grey River to the east, the
Tasman Sea to the west and across to the Paparoa National Park,
through which this newest Great Walk passes.
“There may well be others here tonight,” warned Hanna as we
approached the wooden door. I knocked – out of habit – and entered
to find that we had the place to ourselves. The views from the huge
New Zealand
High times
The Paparoa range
offers fantastic ridge
walking on day two
of the new trail
windows were mind-blowing. It was hard to believe that such a place
is available to walkers for just the tiny sum of NZ$15 (£7.70) per night.
As the sun set, we decided to take our food and wander along
what is now the brand new Paparoa Track. It took us up and over
undulating hillside covered in tussock grass, where elusive kiwi
roam at night and red markers still flap in the wind as indicators
for the track builders. Clouds swirled as we got ever higher along
the range, nearing the 1,200m mark. After about an hour, we
stopped on a little rise from where
we could see, for now, that the track
ended and a little bulldozer sat
waiting for its operator to continue.
“Beyond there is the Moonlight
Tops Hut that will sleep up to 20
people,” explained Hanna. “Then
a little further on is the turn-off for
the detour along the Pike 29 Memorial
Track, down to the site of the
interpretation centre.”
When the families of the local men
who had died came up with the idea
for the new walking route, it was initially going to be named after
the disaster itself. However, in working with the Department of
Conservation, they decided that a better way would be to create
a much longer-lasting celebration of the lives of those lost in the
incident, naming the route instead after the great mountain range
that defines this part of the West Coast, with an optional add-on
trail to the mine that will also be completed next year. With a visit
to Blackball at the start – a place steeped in local mining history
– plus the many reminders of silently rusting machinery found ⊲
Wanderlust September 2018 | 53
New Zealand
⊳ along the trail, those men and the hardships that they
endured were never far from our minds.
The next morning, we woke early, roused from our sleep by
sunrise peeking up over the neighbouring mountain tops. As
I emerged from the building, I found that we were surrounded by
thick white clouds. Seemingly perched on an island in the midst
of it all, I called to Hanna to witness this cloud inversion. There
we sat, eating breakfast on the bench outside. Though it was still
damp from the morning’s mildew, we
didn’t mind – it was a small price to
‘We soared over the
pay to be part of this dawnscape.
Making tracks
escarpment, teetering
With the track currently going no
further along the mountain ridge,
our only option for the next day was alongside sheer drops
to cut out the gap in the middle and
do some of what will be day three of and knuckles
the official walk. But Ben had come
up with a rather cunning plan.
of exposed granite’
The methodical buzz of rotating
helicopter blades began to fill the still
mountain air. Used primarily to transport workers to continue
construction on the path, Hanna and I were offered a lift back
down with Ben in the chopper, from which we would get a bird’s
eye view of the track’s planned traverse.
There’s something supremely special about seeing a path as it’s
being created. From the air, the range seemed to rise and fall like
the bumpy spine of a reptile, while tiny figures in orange vests
moved along it like bustling ants.
54 | Wanderlust September 2018
“There’s Moonlight Tops Hut,” said the pilot, gesturing down
to the skeletal form of a building that will soon be ready to accept
hikers. He pointed over to the trees heading down into Pike Valley
where red beech trees and dwarf alpine scrub twisted to form
a thick pocket of woodland so Tolkienesque in character that
you’d be forgiven for imagining an orc or a troll might emerge
from behind their trunks at any second.
We soared over the point where the Paparoa Track winds along
the sprawling escarpment, teetering
alongside sheer drops and knuckles
of exposed granite and gneiss veined
with quartz, before descending back
into the woodland to the site of the
second hut – Pororari. We couldn’t
land there and walk out as there was
still no path to be trodden, but we did
get dropped off near to the Pororari
River (after which the hut is named)
and walk most of the third day’s four-
hour hike in reverse.
Ben joined us on a path where nikau
palms jostled for attention between
the broadleaf trees, making it feel subtropical and very different
from the woodland to the south. Despite being distracted by the
shrill call of the tui birds, stopping when Ben pointed out the
white-and-turquoise-breasted New Zealand pigeon (or kereru) and
almost stumbling over a native ground-dwelling weka (also known
colloquially as a ‘false kiwi’), I trained my eye on the path itself.
Considering that this stone-covered trail had been in the making
for over a year now, it looked remarkably natural. ⊲
Priceless scenery
Hanna takes in the
NZ$15 million views
outside the NZ$15-a-
night Ces Clark Hut
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New Zealand
⊳ “That’s what’s so good about the Great Walks,” explained
Ben. “They make a man-made path look as though no work has
gone into it at all; as though it’s just naturally cleaved its way
through the terrain.”
We followed the river for several kilometres, and as we did, rain
began to fall in thick globules and the path became increasingly
muddy. Just as we reached a large bridge, we stumbled upon
the very men who were painstakingly creating it.
“We’ve had a real setback,” said one, making a futile attempt
at wiping his brow, only to be immediately pelted again with the
now hard-falling rain. “Last month, we had so much bad weather
that two month’s worth of work was essentially washed out
overnight. You can go a little further, but not much.”
It was difficult to imagine what a thankless task it must be to
build the kind of walking tracks that New Zealand is famous for.
The fragile nature of these trails ensures that they are highly
susceptible to destruction – especially when in their infancy –
meaning those building them often have to work on the same
section several times. Then there is the knowledge that if
56 | Wanderlust September 2018
A flying visit
(clockwise from this)
A cosy night in the
hut; crossing the
Pororari River; you
can see why the
weka is also known
as the ‘false kiwi’; a
chopper makes easy
work of any walk –
especially one that’s
still being created
you’ve done your job well, hikers won’t ever actually acknowledge
any of your hard graft at all.
“It’s what we do,” said another worker when I mentioned it. “Our
thanks come from the pleasure it brings the trampers (hikers) who
come to New Zealand and the lasting legacy we are creating here.”
Full of hope for this walk and the benefits it could bring to this
oft-overlooked region, we headed back, following the trail towards
its terminus at Punakaiki – also known as the Pancake Rocks.
As we emerged into the busy car park, where families were buying
ice-creams and tourists were snapping selfies next to the layers of
limestone that make up these coastal geological formations, it was
funny to think that a new type of visitor – the hiker – would soon
be here, too. Walks are ubiquitous in this country, and great walks
even more so. As Cynthia told me before I set out from Blackball:
with the coming of the Paparoa Track, the future for New Zealand’s
West Coast is looking infinitely more promising. For a community
that historically has searched beneath the earth for an income,
things – and people – are finally looking up. And if we’re very lucky,
Cythnia may even add cappuccinos to the menu.
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 West Coast, New Zealand Footnotes
VITAL
STATISTICS
Largest town: Greymouth (South Island)
Population: 32,400
Languages: English, Maori
Time : GMT+12 (+13 Oct–Apr)
International dialling code: +64
Visas: Not required by UK nationals
for stays of up to three months.
Money: New Zealand dollar (NZ$),
currently around NZ$1.95 to the UK£1.
When to go
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
■ Winter – the weather can be more
settled during winter, and facilities are
still open at Punakaiki and in Greymouth.
■ Summer – best chance of warmer
weather; streams and creeks should be
low but facilities will be more in demand
and the weather is still changeable.
■ Shoulder season – spring and autumn
see cooler weather, fewer crowds and
more room in hotels and huts. Do check
the opening times of facilities before you
go and, as floods are possible, be sure
to check track conditions with the
Department of Conservation (DoC).
Health & safety
No specific jabs are required. The
water is safe to drink, so fill your reusable
bottles and enjoy. Do be aware that the
weather in New Zealand – in particular the
West Coast – can be very changeable;
it’s not uncommon to experience all four
seasons in a day. No matter when you go,
take waterproof overtrousers, a jacket and
plenty of layers – note that it gets cold,
even in the huts, at night.
Further reading
& Information
www.newzealand.com – tourism board
https://westcoast.co.nz – official site
for the West Coast
www.doc.govt.nz – Department of
Conservation site; download a trail guide
and register to hike the Paparoa Track
More online
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/189
for links to more content
ARCHIVE ARTICLES
♦ Move Over Tongariro– issue 171
♦ 7 New Zealand Adventures that will
change your life – online exclusive
PLANNING GUIDES
♦ New Zealand travel guide
58 | Wanderlust September 2018
THE TRIP PAPAROA TRACK’S LITTLE FIVE
Getting there & around
Daily flights operate between
London Heathrow and Christchurch with
a number of airlines, including Etihad
Airways (etihad.com), Air New Zealand
(airnewzealand.co.uk) and Singapore
Airlines (singaporeair.com). Flight time
is around 25 hours with a stopover en
route; returns from £550pp. Daily flights to
Hokitika (the nearest domestic airport to
the track; one hour’s drive from Blackball)
from Christhurch are available with Air
New Zealand; travel time is 45 minutes and
returns cost from NZ$120 (£61). Once there,
a hire car is recommended. All the usual
companies can be found at the airports.
Walking the trail
The Paparoa Track is 55km one
way, not including the optional detour 1 Kiwi
Elusive, nocturnal and rare, these
the ground. Getting them to pose with
their fans out for photos is a little trickier…
down the Pike29 Memorial Track, which
adds a day or can be done separately from
a car park at the Interpretation Centre. The
fluffy ground-dwelling birds are by no
means easy to spot, but by staying in one
of the huts, you are likely to hear their
4 Weka
You’ll often hear these ground-dwelling
birds described by locals as a ‘false kiwi’,
trail will officially open on 19 April 2019 and distinct shrill cry when night falls. owing to the number of reported kiwi
there are plans to offer a shuttle service
from Blackball to the start of the track and 2 Blue duck
Another rare bird. Keep your eyes
sightings by tourists that turn out to be
these brown speckled woodhens.
from Punakaiki (the end) back to the start,
so you can collect your car. Tickets and
registration will be required to walk the
peeled for this waterfowl if headed to
Garden Gully, as a pair is often spotted
fishing in the water where the creek forks.
5 Westland petrel
Once you reach the coast, keep
your eyes peeled for this large black sea
Paparoa Track; these can be booked
online at greatwalks.co.nz/paparoa or
in person at the DoC offices from March
3 Fantail
Curious and bold, these little black-
and-white birds are known to follow
bird (pictured), which only breeds high
in the foothills of Punakaiki. Flocks in
their hundreds appear between March
2019. All supplies must be carried with hikers as their boots disturb insects on and November.
you, including camping mat, sleeping
bag, clothes and food for three days. NORTH
Accommodation ISLAND
At the start of the trail, the
recommended stay is at Formerly The 200km
Ab e l
Ta sm a n NP Ma r l b o r o ug h
Blackball Hilton (blackballhilton.co.nz), to
0 SOUTH S o und s
Nelson WELLINGTON
get a real glimpse into the small town’s ISLAND
mining past and to meet the lovely owners. Picton
B&B doubles are from NZ$55pp (£28); Blenheim
note that rooms currently have shared Punakaiki
Paparoa Track
bathrooms but this may change.
Both official huts on the Paparoa Track TA S M A N Greymouth Blackball Kaikoura
will open in April 2019; they can be booked SEA
on the DoC website (see ‘Walking the trail’)
and at any office in person. Both sleep 20
Franz Josef Glacier
and have bunks, mattresses, heating, gas Christchurch
Fox Glacier
hobs, toilets and water (no showers). Mount Cook
3,157m
Prices are to be decided but, as a gauge,
the nearby Ces Clark Hut charges NZ$15pn
Rangitata
(£7.70), though it has no cooking facilities. M i l f o rd Wanaka Timaru
At the end of the route there are several Sound
overnight options (hostel, resort, campsite) Queenstown
in Punakaiki, including Hide & Seek BNB
D o u b t fu l Fiordland
Clyde
(hideandseek.net.nz), which has B&B Sound Alexandra
doubles from around NZ$285pn (£146). Te Anau Middlemarch
Dunedin
Food & drink
Pick up any supplies pre-walk at S O U3 T H
Greymouth. The West Coast is famous for
Invercargill
P A C I F I C
whitebait – small freshwater fish that can
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Alamy
O C E A N
be found as patties and even on pizzas. In
general, expect to pay around NZ$20 (£10) Stewart
Island
and up for a meal in a decent restaurant.
 TRAVEL Become an instant expert

MASTERCLASS
with our travel know-how

Fifty years
of the USA’s
National Trails
see p63
Alamy

■ This month’s experts include: Paddleboarding boss Richard Harpham, p60

♦ Capital escaper Sarah Guy, p64 ♦ Midday photographer Mark Bauer, p66
♦ Cliche critic Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth, p68 ♦ Luggage wheeler Phoebe Smith, p70
Wanderlust September 2018 | 59
Get up, stand up
There’s nothing
quite like the sense
of freedom you get
from paddling off
into the sunset

How to try paddleboarding

■ The Wanderlust Masterclass

W
hether it’s lazily
floating along the
Thames or exploring
the smooth waters of
Lake Bled in Slovenia
and the world beyond,
the notion of incorporating a stand-up
paddleboard trip into a journey is definitely
a romantic one. It’s one of the world’s fastest
growing sports and is increasingly easy – and
popular – to do on your travels. But
concerns about planning and technique
mean some people don’t get past the
daydreaming. However, our guide will have
you gliding like a pro in no time…
Why do it?
Stand-up paddleboarding is easier than you
think, open to nearly any age group. “If
you’re fit enough to walk up a set of stairs,
you’re fit enough to paddleboard,” says
Christian Russell-Pollock from Red Paddle
Co, the planet’s biggest producer of inflatable
paddleboards. “It’s one of the most accessible
ways of exploring. And it’s becoming even
easier to get out onto the water.”
Thanks to its growing popularity,
beginner sessions are widely available across
the country, so you can pick up the basics
from a pro. Learn on calm waters and a wide,
thick board, which will offer better stability.
You’ll be surprised how little time it takes
to get to grips with the technique. Start by
kneeling down, to get used to the feel of the
board and the rhythm of paddling without
fear of falling in; once you’ve gained
confidence, try standing up, taking it slow
and steady at first. You’ll quickly get your
balance. After an afternoon on the water, you
should already be feeling pretty comfortable.
How do I plan an SUP trip?
Before you plan a route, you need to ensure
you’re legally allowed on the water. “Don’t
forget to purchase a licence,” explains
Richard Harpham, co-owner of watersports

60 | Wanderlust September 2018


‘The real beauty of stand-up paddleboarding is that
it’s actually surprisingly easy to pick up’
tour company Canoe Trail. “Joining British What about out on
Canoeing will provide you with a waterways the water?
licence for accessible rivers and lakes. “Beware the law of Riparian Ownership in
Alternatively, you can purchase a licence England and Wales,” warns Richard. “It
from the Environment Agency, although means that if someone owns a riverbank
this often has regional designation.” property, they own the water and riverbed
Another licence option is a Canal & River immediately surrounding it as well [which
Trust Explorer Licence, which allows 30 means paddleboarders will be tresspassing].
days of access per year – a good option if you However, however, much river access is
just want a taster. linked to the right of navigation, so anywhere
Once you’ve got a licence, it’s time to plot that allows bigger craft will usually be
your route. “Maps are a great place to start,” accessible for paddleboarders, too.”
says Richard. Pesda Press publishes a series In Scotland, no such law exists but, like
of specialist paddling guides for the everywhere, respect other users of the
UK, which highlight river access
points, hazards and other top tip
Even though you probably
water. Other general wild
adventure rules apply, like
route planning information. leaving your campsite how
want to be cut off from the
While they’re typically you found it, especially if
outside world, take a phone
aimed at the canoe and and charger with you just you’re wild camping.
kayak community, they in case, and make sure Most beginners choose
include plenty of someone not on your trip a river for their first
transferable information for knows your route paddleboarding trip, but if
stand-up paddleboarding and estimated you opt for the sea or open
trips. There are also lots of great finish time. water, make sure you use a leg
resources online. British Canoeing leash. It’ll keep you connected to the
(www.britishcanoeing.org.uk) and the Canal board, so if you do fall off, your board won’t
& River Trust (www.canalrivertrust.org.uk) drift away from you. A leash isn’t a good idea
both offer plenty of good route suggestions. on rivers as it can easily snag on underwater
Next: packing. Many paddleboards are branches or low-hanging trees.
fitted with elasticated ropes to secure your Wearing a buoyancy aid is useful, for both
gear, but it’s still essential to pack light. personal safety and for storing more kit.
“I try to pack considering the rooms of
a house as a guide,” explains Richard. “For Where should I go first?
example, for the bedroom I’d need a bivvy The UK is ideal if you’re looking for a gentle
bag, sleeping bag and mat, while for the introduction to stand-up paddleboarding.
kitchen I would go for ready made meals There are guide-led trips in London, although
that I can just add water to or heat up.” Pack you’re not permitted to paddle through the
an emergency bag as well, with items such centre of the city. Outside the capital, the River
as a torch and spare batteries, fire-lighting Great Ouse in Bedfordshire and the River
equipment and a first-aid kit. Nene in neighbouring Northamptonshire
are perfect for beginners. Further afield, the
rugged coastline of west Wales is a great
option for open-water adventures.
The real beauty of paddleboarding is that
it’s actually surprisingly easy to pick up,
leaving you to concentrate not on technique
but on planning the perfect micro – or
major –SUP adventure.
Feel inspired to hit the water? Discover our
suggestions for great watery trips online
Dreamstime
at wanderlust.co.uk/189
Masterclass Advice
■ Case study
RHODRI
ANDREWS
Wanderlust assistant editor Rhodri recalls
his first paddleboarding adventure…
Why did you try a
paddleboarding trip?
I love to try out new
things on my travels
and while I’ve done
kayaking and canoeing in the past, I’ve
never done paddleboarding. I thought
a leafy river stretch in Bedfordshire
would be a great place to embark on
a watery microadventure.
How easy was it to pick up?
It was surprisingly simple. I was
tentative at first, but I drew confidence
from seeing the rest of the group take
to it like ducks to water (if you’ll excuse
the pun). Transitioning from kneeling
down and getting used to
manoeuvring about to standing up
and gently making my way downriver
only took a matter of minutes.
Did you have any guidance at all
before you started?
We had a short demo from our guide,
Richard, who covered paddling
techniques, the different types of
board (apparently bigger and thicker is
better) and the various dos and don’ts
when you’re out on the water.
How did you find it?
I loved it. There is a genuine sense of
freedom you get when paddling along
a river that you don’t get elsewhere.
I was worried that I would spend the
whole evening thinking too much
about falling off or keeping myself
steady. I was by no means perfect, but
I felt comfortable enough to take in my
surroundings and chat to my fellow
paddleboarding newbies along the
way. With Richard and his guiding
team alongside us, we weren’t far from
extra help if we needed it.
Any other advice?
Patience is key. Wait until you’re
comfortable enough on the board
before standing up or trying to paddle
faster. If you’re too eager, you’ll fall off
and it will take you longer to get to
grips with it. Spending quality time
enjoying a new skill is invaluable.
Wanderlust September 2018 | 61
 EXCLUSIVE READER EVENT

Exploring Belize
Wednesday 5th September
Royal Geographical Society, London
Join Wanderlust and the Belize Tourist Board
for a fun and informative evening. Belize has
something for every modern-day explorer;
the compact country not only boasts the
world's second-largest reef but also magical
Mayan ruins, a melting pot of cultures, diverse
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Join us over a glass of wine and some typical
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TO FIND OUT MORE AND REGISTER FOR TICKETS:

Wanderlust.co.uk/ExploringBelize

Walk this way
The USA’s national
parks preserved its
wild spaces, but
the trail network is
what lets us truly
explore them
■ Instant Expert
US National Trails
So, why are we talking trails?
It’s been 50 years since the USA’s National
Trails System was created, a long-held dream
by then-president Lyndon Johnson to help
protect the country’s best-loved wild spaces.
Sounds like a man after our own heart.
How’d it come about?
While the National Trails System act was
established in 1968, it was an impassioned
speech President Johnson gave to Congress
in 1965 that got the wheels in motion. There,
he first shared his dream for paths linking
the already protected national parks. Three
years later, his dream was realised.
He actually talked the talk and
walked the walk…
He did. Now, 1,000 trails with a combined
length of over 80,000km exist across the
USA. It’s certainly an impressive legacy.
Absolutely. Where do we start?
Where it all began. Along with the historic
Alamy; Dreamstime
1968 act, two inaugural national trails were
spawned: the Appalachian Trail and the
Masterclass Instant Expert
■ Three of the best…
OTHER NEW
ZEALAND TRAILS
With Phoebe Smith tackling NZ’s
latest Great Walk (p46), here’s three
other terrific trails in the country...
1 Rakiura Track
This 32km looping hike on
Stewart Island gently meanders
through lush forest, rocky bays
and sweeping sands. Spy
a number of birds that speckle
the route, including tui, kaka
and dotterels. And come late
evening, there’s a chance to spy
elusive kiwi birds in the forests,
or even see the world’s smallest
penguins (little blue) playing
out among the surf.
2 Abel Tasman Coast Track
Undoubtedly the best way
to experience the Abel Tasman
National Park, this trail (60km
one way) winds bushlands,
golden beaches and snorkel-
Did you worthy waters. When skirting
know? its bays, keep your eyes peeled
for sightings of fur seals,
USA’s trails cover all 50
states, and over one million common dolphins and little
hours of volunteer help blue penguins. If you fancy
is required to maintain
them annually. giving your legs a rest, swap
your boots for paddles and
kayak a section of the route,
or even just hop in a water taxi.
Pacific Crest Trail. They’ve arguably also the
country’s most iconic (thanks to Cheryl
3 Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Often billed as the world’s
greatest day walk, the 19.4km
Strayed’s Wild and Bill Bryson’s A Walk in Tongariro hike (pictured) packs
the Woods books), and while they’re both epic in a myriad of landscapes:
long-distance routes, it’s easy to experience lava flows, steaming craters,
snatches of either, whether by exploring toothpaste-blue lakes and
sections as part of a road trip or by doing snow-dusted slopes all
day walks. Take your pick from some wild squeeze into a 24-hour hike in
settings: the Pacific Crest Trail slices through this glacially carved landscape.
desert, rugged Sierra Nevada and lush woods, In short, it really does live up to
while the Appalachian Trail winds along its impressive moniker.
rock formations and richly forested swathes.
How else can we mark the occasion?
Well… it’s not just those two. The National
Parks Service website (www.nps.gov) has
a full list of trails. Also head to trails50.org
for all the events celebrating the anniversary
– everything from walking challenges to art
installations are being held along the trails.
It also has information about events for the
National Wild and Scenic Rivers System
(a waterbound equivalent to the hiking trails),
which also commemorates 50 years in 2018.
Wanderlust September 2018 | 63
ASK THE
EXPERTS
Need a relaxing break from the thrum of London life? Want to
conquer the frigid peaks of Kilimanjaro without collapsing?
Fancy biking around Ireland’s coast? Our experts can help...
THE EXPERTS
Henry Stedman
Travel writer and author of
Trailblazer’s Kilimanjaro trekking
guide (trailblazer-guides.com)
Sarah Guy
Ex-Time Out Guides editor and
author of Ebury Press’ London On
Sea (penguinrandomhouse.co.uk)
Tom Cooper
Journalist and author of Cicerone’s
Cycling the Wild Atlantic Way and
Western Ireland (cicerone.co.uk)
64 | Wanderlust September 2018
Q
I want to get away
from London for the
day to relax – but
where should I go?
Jessica Peggram, via email
A
The seaside is the perfect
place to relax, as long
as you choose your
destination wisely.
Deal, in Kent, is an ideal spot
for a grown-up, stress-free break:
charming, easily accessible by
train and with a fine selection of
pubs. The compact town centre
resembles a film set, with rows of
Georgian houses and fishermen’s
cottages leading to a shingle
beach lined with boats. The
thriving high street is perfect for
a spot of aimless mooching, or
you could take an easy, scenic
stroll along the Saxon Shore
Way to Kingsdown and the
beach-side Zetland Arms.
Thorpeness, Suffolk, offers
a dose of comforting nostalgia,
with quirky buildings (most
notably the towering House in
the Clouds), a windmill and
a picturesque boating lake, the
Meare. Everything is within
walking distance of the beach,
and the pace is delightfully slow.
For a complete change from the
big city, head further along the
Suffolk coast to Dunwich. Spend
the afternoon on the beach here,
tucked behind the dunes; apart
from a swim or a trudge on the
shingle, there’s blissfully little
to do. Fish and chips can be had
at the Flora Tearooms in the car
park behind the beach.
Of course, you may just want
miles of sand, in which case head
for Camber in East Sussex, or
West Wittering in West Sussex
– but avoid high season, when
everyone has the same idea.
Sarah Guy, author of Ebury
Press’ London On Sea: 50
Capital Days Out on the Coast
Q
I’d love to climb
Kilimanjaro but
I’m nervous about
getting altitude sickness and
not making it to the top. Do
you have any tips?
Graham Vaughan, via email
A
Altitude sickness, or
acute mountain sickness
(AMS), occurs because
your body is unable to take in
sufficient oxygen at high altitudes.
As a result, you start to feel ill.
Typical symptoms include
headaches, nausea and difficulty
breathing, though if it is not
treated then much more serious
complications – and even death
– can quickly occur. There are
seven golden rules for ascending
Kilimanjaro safely and successfully.
Walking slowly is the first. Emulate
the deliberate, careful tread of
an elderly, cautious elephant or
a jaunty tortoise. Take as long as

you can on the ascent – six days
minimum, seven is better and eight
days is best. Drink plenty and aim
for at least three litres of water a day
and also eat well. Don’t worry, it’s
very unlikely you’ll gain weight on
your trek, so tuck in! If it is at all
possible, try and acclimatise to
thinner oxygen levels by climbing
up to high altitude before you
arrive at Kilimanjaro.
Consider taking Diamox as well.
This ‘altitude wonder drug’ wasn’t
actually developed to combat AMS
but it does seem to have a positive
effect on many climbers suffering
from it. Have a chat with your GP
about whether you should take it
on your climb. Finally, choose your
tour company carefully. My book
reviews the trekking agencies.
Henry Stedman, author of
Trailblazer’s Kilimanjaro –
Dreasmtime; Alamy
The Trekking Guide to Africa’s
Highest Mountain guidebook
Masterclass Q&A
Living the high life
(clockwise from this)
Greetings from
Kilimanjaro; a wheely ■ Insiders’ Guide to...
good time in Ireland;
getting wet and not
terribly wild on the
CAMBODIA
English coast
Exodus Travels’ Product
Manager Kelly Reid on
her essential guide for
visiting Cambodia…
BEST TIME TO VISIT: While Cambodia is warm year-round and
can be explored any time of year, the best time to visit is from
December to April, during the dry season.
WHERE TO GO: Cambodia is incredibly diverse, with some of
the highlights including visiting the province of Siem Reap and
the ancient temples of Angkor Wat. Also worth a visit is the
bustling capital of Phnom Penh, with its stunning Royal
Palace – a perfect place to learn more about Cambodia’s
turbulent past. Head to Kampot for fruit and pepper
plantations, and the seaside resort province of Kep for
breathtaking beaches in an area that is regaining popularity
after the Khmer Rouge period.
WHAT TO EAT: Cambodian food is all about contrasts – sweet
and bitter, salty and sour, fresh and cooked! Whilst its cuisine
is similar to neighbouring South East Asian countries, all dishes
are unique. Try the local rice noodle soup, fresh salad dishes,
a fish curry or even deep-fried spider – a local delicacy!
WHY NOT TRY: Visiting Angkor Wat during sunset; a truly
special time of day to wander around and soak up the
atmosphere of this ancient site.
Q
I’ve just got into
bikepacking. What’s
a good route in Ireland
for a relative newcomer?
Stewart Fraser, via email
A
Ireland has great options
for bikepacking newbies.
Your choice of routes will
depend on how far you want to go,
how you will get to and from the
route, and what you want to see.
One of my favourite circular
routes is to start at Sligo, on the
north-west coast, and then follow
the coastline west and south to
Achill Island. Sligo has wide, open of accommodation along the Connemara to Galway city
beaches, while Achill has stunning way. Sligo also has a regular (630km in total, nine or ten days).
mountain and cliff scenery. Then train service to Dublin, although Tom Cooper, author of
you can head back inland to Sligo you must book bike spaces. Cicerone’s Cycling the Wild
via the lakes around Foxford and If you don’t need a circular Atlantic Way and Western
the slopes of the Ox Mountains. route, you can continue south Ireland guidebook
The total distance will be around along the coast from Achill and
470km, a good six-day ride for push on along the Wild Atlantic Got a hot travel question? Email
a newcomer, and the hills start Way to Westport (375km, five fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk
a few days in. There’s a good mix days from Sligo) and through and we’ll ask our experts
Wanderlust September 2018 | 65
TAKE
BETTER 1 right
Choose the

TRAVEL
subject
Look for bold, simple subjects with strong
shapes and lines. Simpler, less-busy

PHOTOS
graphic compositions will work much
better in harsh light with strong shadows
than scenes that rely on a lot of detail. Bold
colours can also add impact, especially
reds, oranges and yellows, which can
Is it possible to contrast effectively with a deep-blue sky.

take striking
scenic shots in the
harsh midday light? Yes,
says Mark Bauer, if you
know a few simple tricks

M
 
ost photographers agree
that scenics are best shot
during the ‘golden
hours’ around sunset
and sunrise, when the
sun casts warm,
flattering light on your subject. The received
2 Use a polariser
At midday there can be a lot of glare
and reflection. These reduce contrast and
wisdom is that the middle of the day, with its colour saturation. Polarising filters block
harsh light, strong contrast and hazy polarised light, reducing this glare and
atmosphere, gives poor results. restoring natural colour. They are easy to
However, it’s not always possible to get use – simply rotate the filter until you see
up really early or stay out late for ‘ideal’ light. the effect you want in the viewfinder.
You may be travelling with others and tied
to their itinerary, you may be on a brief
stopover in your location or you may just
not have the energy to get up at some
ridiculous time in the morning.
Fortunately, it’s perfectly possible to get
excellent results in the middle of the day
if you have a little patience and take the
3 Shoot long
exposures
Neutral-density filters are dark filters
right approach. For example, for this shot that reduce the amount of light coming
of Dubrovnik, taken from the city walls, through the lens and therefore allow you to
I waited for clouds to drift in to the right artificially extend shutter speeds for creative
position to add some interest in the sky and effect – anything moving in the scene during
also partially cover the sun, so that the light the exposure will blur. This is a useful
was diffused and less harsh. technique when shooting near water, which
can be recorded as an ethereal mist, adding
From Dawn to Dusk by atmosphere to the shot.
Ross Hoddinott & Mark Bauer
(Ammonite Press, £16.99) is
out now. © 2018

66 | Wanderlust September 2018

 Masterclass Photography

top tip
You don’t need to shoot the
whole scene in front of the camera.

4 and
Shoot black
white
This is a highly effective way of dealing
In harsh light, picking out smaller
details – especially based on lines,
angles and strong shapes – and
with harsh light – scenes that appear too abstracting them, can
produce more dynamic
contrasty in colour can look quite dramatic compositions.
in monochrome. Most cameras have
a mono setting or you can convert colour
images in post-production. Look for scenes
that contain a full range of tones, from
deep shadows to bright highlights.

5 Wait for clouds

A little cloud cover – even a small
amount – can help to diffuse harsh light
and reduce excessive contrast. On blustery
days there is always the possibility of
spotlighting falling on key parts of a scene
as the clouds are blown around, covering
and then revealing the sun. With a little
patience, you can get dramatic results.

Wanderlust September 2018 | 67

 TRAVEL
CLINIC
with Doctor Jane
The science behind the
travel health clichés
Received wisdom can be a dangerous thing, especially when
travelling. But while some health clichés are pure bunkum,
others have one foot in fact, writes Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth
Vitamin B capsules,
yeast or foods rich
in thiamine prevent
mosquito bites.
Some websites claim
that eating thiamine-rich
food makes you repellent
to blood-feeders. It doesn’t.
However, thiamine (aka vitamin
B1) does reduce itching caused
by bites. Thiamine protagonists
advise increasing dietary intake
(eg more yeast products, offal
or whole grains) and taking
one brewer’s yeast tablet daily
while in bug-infested places.
68 | Wanderlust September 2018
+
This strategy is okay if visiting
midge-heavy Scotland or
Scandinavia, for example, but
it is unwise if heading for the
tropics or even the Americas.
Why? Because if biters are
annoying, you’ll take avoiding
action such as moving into
a screened room or applying
repellent. If you don’t notice
the bites, however, you are
more likely to do nothing
and thus increase your risk
of mosquito-borne disease,
and there are several on offer
(including West Nile fever) in
the warmer parts of the US.
Women get bitten
by mosquitoes
more than men.
Sexist old-school explorers used
to claim that the best way to
avoid bites in the tropics was to
bring along a woman. There is
evidence that, given the choice,
mosquitoes are attracted to
female humans, especially
pregnant women. Indeed, the
latter are bitten twice as often
as their non-pregnant peers.
Increased skin temperature,
surface area, hormones and
other ‘volatile substances’ seem
to attract mosquitoes. They also
home in on CO2 and are likely
drawn to talkative people as
they emit more of this gas. Being
quiet isn’t a failsafe, though,
mosquitoes will make do with
quiet men, cats or even geckos.
It is fascinating to watch
mosquitoes hunting. Somehow
they are aware that keeping in
the shadows is safer than being
out in the open. They will even
bite amid the black areas of fur
on a piebald cat rather than the
Masking the issue
Wearing a mask may
help prevent a sore
throat in polluted cities;
(below) brushing your
teeth in tap water,
however, is unlikely
to harm you
white fur, seemingly knowing
that they are easy to see against
a white background.
Travellers always
get sick soon after
a plane journey.
Airlines discourage flying with
active infectious disease but
checks are few and chickenpox
and colds are often caught
during air travel. The challenge
is that chickenpox victims are
highly infectious and breathe
out large numbers of virus in the
24 hours before the rash appears
– when they are unaware of
being ill. Similarly, people
developing colds and flu excrete
viruses into the cabin air without
realising how infectious they are.

HEPA (high efficiency
particulate air) filters on modern
aircraft have the capability of
removing pathogens as small as
viruses, but the air circulates
along rows of seats, so there
isn’t complete protection.
A few drops of
washing-up water on
your plate could make
you desperately ill.
Lots of travellers worry about
the water that gets into their
mouths, but when assessing the
risk, it is worth remembering
that most harmful microbes
need to invade the body in
their thousands, if not millions,
Dreamstime; Getty
to make themselves felt.
Swallowing the odd drop of
washing-up water, or brushing
your teeth in tap water, isn’t
likely to make you ill.
Firstly, foreign tap water is
unlikely to be badly polluted
(otherwise the locals would
have been wiped out); and
secondly, water that appears
clean is unlikely to be wriggling
with pathogens. I brush my
teeth in Kathmandu tap water
but boil water I’m going to
drink. The risk is all about the
amount of contamination.
There is an exception in that
Shigella bacteria – the bug that
is responsible for bacillary
dysentery – is very infective:
swallowing just 100 Shigella will
make most people really ill.
That said, these bacteria are
unlikely to contaminate
Masterclass Health
a water supply unless there
has been some dramatic
infrastructural breakdown,
of the kind experienced after
floods or earthquakes.
Carrying your own
cup and cutlery can
protect you.
In a similar vein, using only
your own cup and cutlery won’t
especially protect you from
acquiring infections; typically,
gastroenteritis comes from
poor food handling by cooks.
It is possible to catch typhoid
from sharing drinking vessels
but slurping from a clean cup
or glass isn’t risky. Interestingly,
in Nepal, where typhoid is
quite common, people don’t
Wanderlust September 2018
put their mouths on water
bottles or cups but pour and
drink without contact.
A mask will protect
you from infection
and air pollution.
Research has established
that masks worn by surgeons
during operations don’t protect
anyone, yet they continue
to be worn – and are beloved
of the residents of polluted
Kathmandu. While masks
probably exist that filter out
everything from microbes to
chemical pollutants, masks
that are effective and also
comfortable to wear are hard
to find. Mask-wearing is always
a compromise; I wouldn’t wear
one in a disease outbreak area
but do wear one to sieve out
some of the pollution when
I’m cycling around cities –
I cough less if I do.
Insect repellents
ward off all insects
but not other biters.
Properly and frequently applied
insect repellents keep off most
blood-lusting small creatures,
including leeches and ticks
despite the fact that they are
not insects. Repellents don’t
work on all insects, though;
houseflies, wasps and bees
don’t take much notice. If
troubled by flies in a restaurant,
ask if they’ll light a candle; in
my experience, flies avoid
burning wax.
A post-travel check-up
is worth doing.
Tests for schistosomiasis and
HIV are worth doing if you’ve
respectively bathed in African
lakes or had an encounter
that has led to unsafe sex, but
the evidence is that routine
check-ups don’t have much
value if you are symptom-free.
Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth lives in
Nepal; www.wilson-howarth.com
| 69
Masterclass Gear

WHEELIE
■ T r a v e l l e r ’ s G u i d e To . . .

top tip
When trying a wheelie

LUGGAGE
bag on a smooth shop floor,
remember that you may
want to use it on rougher
ground or cobbles – will
it be tough enough
for that, too?

Cases on wheels are specifically designed to make your travels easier – but only if
you choose the right one. Here’s our guide to buying the right rolling bag for you…

MATERIAL
There are two main options: soft-sided and hard-
sided luggage. Soft-sided bags have more give, so
are good if you intend to cram them to full capacity
(or a bit over). Check that there is a waterproof
lining on the inside, to keep things dry. Also, bear
in mind that even very durable fabrics can rip –
though they are often easy to repair with duct
tape or similar. Some travel companies insist on
soft-sided bags, especially if you’re doing a trek or
overland trip where packs are carried by animals
or put on top of vehicles. Hard-sided cases are
usually strong and made to withstand hard impact.
However, they can be heavier unpacked and
harder to close if you’re stuffing in extra souvenirs.
WEIGHT
The average hold-luggage limit on long-haul
economy flights is 23kg, so the weight of the case
itself is key – every kilo the bag weighs unpacked
is one less you have for your kit.
HANDLE
Telescopic handles are the most common type
– they fold away when not in use. However, this
means that the handle system takes up some
bag capacity, so a bigger system means less
packing space. Single-pole handles tend to
be more sturdy; double-pole handles offer
better balance. Check handles are made from
strong materials, so they won’t break easily,
and that the handle length suits you, so you don’t
have to stoop to use it.
INSIDE
Some cases are divided into multiple
compartments, which is handy for staying
organised but will add weight. Vented sections
are particularly useful for separating clean
and dirty clothes. Look for compression straps,
which help to pack things in.
POCKETS
Usually found on the outside of soft-sided cases,
pockets offer extra space, though they are not
suitable for valuables as they are not lockable. 
EXTRAS
Some models will come with extra features,
such as a built-in combo lock that secures zips
to the case, or a tracking device. These can be
welcome but will increase the weight of the
luggage and possibly the cost, so consider
whether you really need them.
WHEELS
In the past, wheeled luggage typically had two
wheels, but now many bags have four. Four wheels
gives you the option to push as well as pull your
bag in multiple directions with ease; each wheel
may be a ‘double’, which gives extra stability. The
advantage of the two-wheeled bag is that once you
tilt it to upright, it stays still and won’t roll away
– not a deal breaker but useful when you’re
standing on a slope. Also, two-wheeled bags
may fare better over rougher ground. Note: all
those on test here are the four-wheeled variety.

Western Digital, including the SanDisk® brand, is a leading
supplier of flash memory products, trusted by consumers all
around the globe. If you’re travelling or taking the holiday of
a lifetime, you need to be confident that your kit won’t let you
down. SanDisk has a range of portable flash storage products
so you can keep clicking and never run out space. And when
you want to preserve those precious photos, SanDisk’s range
of back-up solutions will give you peace of mind.
Available from Amazon, Argos and Dixons. www.sandisk.com

70 | Wanderlust September 2018

 In association with

Tried & tested

We test out your essential travel
How we did the test…
We asked gear manufacturers to submit hold
bags with four wheels. From the selection we
were sent, our editor-at-large, Phoebe Smith,
took them out on the road to see which
kit so you don’t have to performed best. The ‘Value Buy’ and
‘Best in Test’ are indicated.

VALUE
AMERICAN BUY EAGLE CREEK
TOURISTER Gear Warrior AWD 26
Soundbox £145 £250
The test: This has a 100L capacity and The test: Small (62L) but feature-packed,
is made from light, tough plastic yet is still this 3.74kg bag is made of water-repellent,
the joint heaviest here at 4.2kg. It has two ripstop fabric. It has three grab handles
grab handles, a double telescopic handle Features: ★★★★✩ and a tough double telescopic handle. Features: ★★★★★
and lockable zip but no external pockets. Design: ★★★★✩ There’s a bungy for attaching kit as well Design: ★★★★★
Inside are two compartments with straps, Packability: ★★★★★ as two zipped pouches. The single wheels Packability: ★★★★✩
plus a zip pocket and mesh pouch. An Value: ★★★★★ also have good tread. Inside, the main Value: ★★★★✩
expander zip allows for more capacity. Weight: ★★★★✩ space has straps and a zipped section on Weight: ★★★★✩
Comes with a limited three-year warranty. Overall: ★★★★✩ the top. Comes with a lifetime guarantee. Overall: ★★★★✩
The verdict: A sturdy value option. americantourister.co.uk The verdict: Nifty; a bit heavy for its size. eaglecreek.eu

BEST IN
ANTLER BRIGGS & RILEY TEST
Juno 2 £169 Explore Expandable
The test: Largest (123L) but not heaviest Spinner (Medium) £339
(3.9kg), this strong plastic case has two The test: This 4.2kg nylon-polyester
grab handles and a TSA-approved combi water-resistant bag carries 69L – the
lock; there’s a double zip to the main double handle is external, so no inner
compartment that’s also lockable. Inside Features: ★★★★✩ capacity is lost. There are many outer Features: ★★★★★
are two compartments: the bottom one Design: ★★★★✩ pockets as well as two grab handles and Design: ★★★★★
has compression straps and a zipped Packability: ★★★★✩ a belt for attaching items. The wheels are Packability: ★★★★★
pocket; the top has no straps but features Value: ★★★★★ doubles. Inside, the main space has straps Value: ★★★★✩
a zipped fabric compartment divider. Weight: ★★★★★ and there are two zipped pockets – one Weight: ★★★★✩
Comes with a limited ten-year warranty. Overall: ★★★★✩ mesh. Comes with a lifetime guarantee. Overall: ★★★★★
The verdict: Massive! antler.co.uk The verdict: Loads of good features. briggs-riley.com

LIPAULT SAMSONITE
Original Plume £205 Cosmolite £415
The test: Second lightest (3kg), this The test: Lightweight (2.6kg for 94L), this
soft-sided, durable nylon bag has a 96.5L is simple but super-tough, made from
capacity. It has two padded grab handles high-impact-resistant plastic. There are
and a double telescopic handle. Wheels two grab handles and a single tube handle
are single but move smoothly. The main Features: ★★★★★ that slides into the mould. Wheels are Features: ★★★★✩
compartment and zipped, padded pocket Design: ★★★★★ single. Zips are lockable; there’s a TSA Design: ★★★★★
are lockable. Inside, the main space has Packability: ★★★★✩ lock, too. There are no external pockets. Packability: ★★★★★
two compression straps; there’s a zipped Value: ★★★★✩ Inside is a large space with straps and Value: ★★★✩✩
pocket on the smaller top compartment. Weight: ★★★★✩ a zip pocket plus a fabric zipped section. Weight: ★★★★★
Comes with a three-year limited warranty. Overall:★★★★✩ Comes with a limited ten-year warranty. Overall: ★★★★✩
The verdict: A good soft-sided option. lipault.co.uk The verdict: Delightfully light and simple. samsonite.co.uk

Wanderlust September 2018 | 71

 WIN!
A SHORT BREAK TO
BRITTANY
See wild lands, Breton culture and a
bewitching icon with Brittany Tourism
D
espite its proximity to Paris,
Brittany feels a world away
from the French capital –
its name translates as ‘little
Britain’ after all. Simply put,
it’s like a country within
a country, and though now part of France, the
Celtic roots that existed before its 16th-century
amalgamation still run strong. From the wild,
rugged coastline that gives a wonderfully
undiscovered feel, to the distinct Breton tongue
and the centuries of human history, Brittany
is unlike anywhere else in the country. Now
Brittany Tourism and Brittany Ferries are offering
you and a friend the chance to win a short break
to this wild land packed with weathered views,
antiquity and a splash of Celtic mysticism.
ANOTHER WORLD
Brittany may just be a small leap across the
English Channel, but with a roll call of epic
coastlines, medieval towns and emerald forests,
it’s firmly a land for explorers. Many of those
who visit make a beeline for its rugged fringes.
Brittany boasts nearly 3,000km of coastline,
and the chic resort of Dinard is one of the star
attractions. Its sandy strips and cliff-hugging
Belle Epóque mansions (more than 400 of them)
paint an idyllic scene, one first adopted by the
visiting British aristocracy in the late 1800s.
Today, it is the getaway of choice for both
casual travellers and Parisian urbanites seeking
calmer climes, with its tree-flanked boulevards
and airy squares pocked with elegant restaurants
and crepêries. The pleasant Promenade du Clair
de Lune offers snaking access to the town’s
shores, while a glimpse back reveals the fine
Edwardian influence Dinard’s facades still retain.
MEDIEVAL MAGIC
Some of Brittany’s most charming sites lie in the
walled citadels that once protected the state’s
borders from any attacks, long before they joined
forces with the French in 1532. Jutting out on
a spectacular natural harbour, Saint-Malo is one
of the finest fortified towns here, its twisting
medieval streets slick with tales of dastardly
pirates and chock-full with quaint boutiques.
A wander along its 12th-century ramparts is a
pure joy for its views of the islands and forts that
speckle the harbour. They also connect two of
the town’s finest buildings, its castle and
cathedral. A museum adjoining the castle charts
Saint-Malo’s past, ranging from Neolithic
monuments to the lives of some of its most
famous residents, including former explorer
Jacques Cartier and romantic novelist Francois-
René de Chateaubriand.
Inland, Dinan is another medieval marvel. Its Old
Town is a warren of cobbled lanes, with the cream
being Rue du Petit-Fort, a steep postcard-worthy
curve of half-timbered buildings that links the
River Rance below with the Old Town proper.
Descend past trinket-laden galleries to the quaint
quayside at the bottom of the cobbles, where old
stone houses have been transformed into bustling

restaurants and sailing clothes and accessories
shops. Its sturdy ramparts and towers are another
thrill, especially the views you can spy from the
40m-high Tour de l’Horloge.
On a good day, you can see as far as Mont
Saint-Michel. Finish among the bars that line
Rue de la Cordonnerie, aptly nicknamed the
‘thirsty street’, as you reflect upon a destination
that almost appears as if time has stood still
since the 15th century.
COASTAL TREASURES
Antoine2k; Gilles Trillard; Alexandre Lamoureux; Franck Hamon/ Brittany Tourism
Head east along the coast to Brittany’s oyster
capital, the fishing village of Cancale. Shellfish
have been cultivated for centuries here, and
Cancale is great place to indulge your palate.
Restaurateurs feature them front row and centre
on their menus, but if you’re after a quick bite,
street stalls sell them by the tray.
For a deeper understanding of this local delicacy,
Visit www.brittanytourism.com for more information
Beautiful Brittany
(clockwise from this)
Wander the cobbles
of Dinan; explore the
walled city of Saint
Malo; stay at the
Castelbrac seafront
hotel; and soak in the
beautiful coast
a smattering of family-run operations open up their
farms for visitors to delve into the history and
production of oysters across generations.
Cancale’s charming Old Town overlooks the busy
port (a unique gourmet experience aboard
a historic sailing ship gives visitors a further – and
tasty – insight into the area’s culinary quality)
while a wealth of trails snake along the rugged
coast around the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel. And to
the north, the gorse-studded Pointe du Grouin
offers fine views of isle-speckled seas and the
whitewashed Herpin lighthouse.
Go east, however, and you’ll witness a true
European icon. The UNESCO-listed spires of
Mont Saint-Michel rise out of the mudflats like
scene from a Harry Potter book. This 11th-century
abbey inspires today’s visitors just as it did the
many pilgrims that visited over the centuries. It’s 
a stupendous, mystical image, and wandering
this tight-knit Gothic masterpiece proves
Competition
HOW TO WIN
Brittany Tourism and Brittany Ferries are offering
one lucky reader the chance to win a three-night
break to Dinard for two, staying at the Castelbrac
Hotel*****. The prize includes return crossings
with Brittany Ferries, a tour of Saint-Malo, a
stand-up paddleboard yoga session and a
gastronomic sailing trip. To be in with a chance of
winning, just answer the following question:
Q:What is the capital of
Brittany?
a) Paris (b) Lyon (c) Rennes
To enter and for full terms & conditions and data policies,
visit wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or send your answer
to the Wanderlust office (address p2); state ‘more info’ if
you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or its sponsors.
The closing date is 5 September 2018.
a delight; the abbey’s cloister, refectory and
ramparts all gorgeously cling to the hilltop.
A gaze out from the fortifications back across the
mudflats to Brittany’s wild coastline is a reminder
why this unique slice of France has become one
of the planet’s inimitable destinations. Brittany
has it all, a microcosm of ancient history,
rough-and-ready vistas and a culture that really
is unlike any other. Vive la Bretagne!
QUEEN
OF THE
PANTANAL
A ranch in Brazil’s Pantanal is not only helping to save some
of the planet’s rarest species – including jaguars – but lets
visitors join those battling to protect them out in the wild…
WORDS LYN HUGHES PHOTOGRAPHS SIMON CHUBB

74 | Wanderlust September 2018

 Brazil

Wanderlust September 2018 | 75

Brazil
T
he radio burst into life and Jessica, one of my
two guides, grinned as she turned to me:
“A pair of jaguars have been seen… You
want to see if we can find them?” Mario
accelerated and the open safari vehicle tore
along unpaved track deep in Brazil’s Pantanal
region while Jessica and I pulled on ponchos
to deter the winter chill blasting our faces.
As we reached the location where the
jaguars had been seen, we heard the alarm calls of jays announcing
their presence. The road was bordered by
a strip of forest and Mario had picked
‘As we reached the spot
a spot that gave us the best possible view,
but we saw nothing. The minutes ticked
where the jaguars had
by. Suddenly, he hissed something in
Portuguese to Jessica, then turned to
me and said that he thought he’d heard
a noise, so we drove back a short been seen, we heard the
way before detouring up a grassy track.
We emerged in a tree-dotted field alarm calls of jays’
behind the woodland. Mario turned the
engine off and we scanned the pasture
in silence, our senses alert. In unison we spotted a powerfully built
male jaguar with a huge round head. It sat in the grass, relaxed, before
loping across towards the trees and disappearing. It was only then, as
we turned to leave, that we realised a female jaguar was in the field
too. She was much smaller than him, almost sylph-like in comparison,
and as she strolled towards the same patch of forest, she took a line
closer to our car, completely unperturbed at our presence.
76 | Wanderlust September 2018
Entering the woods, she made her way along the other side of the
wire fence that bordered it, staying often in sight. She then came back
out into the field, looking back all the time for the male, and rolled
in the grass in a provocative manner. She seemed to be playing a game
of come hither: one minute hard to get, the next displaying herself to
the male. It worked, as he reappeared and settled down to watch her.
As twilight fell, she walked past us another time, just five metres
from where we sat. The male was clearly fixated with her but kept his
distance. Eventually they both headed off across the field together. By
now it was pitch black and fireflies danced in the meadow. Switching
the headlights on, we slowly followed
the pair, keeping a respectful distance.
Jessica revealed that the female was
known as Juju and was two years and
three months old. “We know her mother,
Nusa, very well,” she said. “We first saw
Juju as a tiny cub, so she is very used to
us. But the male we do not recognise.
He is possibly a new one to the ranch.”
We turned back down to the
road and drove on, exhilarated and
chatting excitedly. “Even for us that
was exceptional,” announced Jessica. But before I could answer,
there was a sudden but significant movement in the trees at the side
of the road. Mario slammed on the brakes. Another jaguar had started
to run across the road but stopped, and instead ran alongside the
treeline parallel to us. “That’s Nusa,” exclaimed Jessica, “the mother
of Juju.” The animal crossed behind us and made a guttural noise,
something between a cough and a roar, before heading off. ⊲
 Brazil

On the big cat trail

Searching with Jessica
and Mario for the pair
of jaguar; (left)
capybaras hang out in
social family groups

Wanderlust September 2018 | 77

Brazil

‘The jaguars were absorbed

in each other and they mated
right there, in the open, in the
beam of our car headlights’

⊳ We had driven full-circle and, as we approached the reception area

of the ranch, we spotted the jaguars again. The female strolled
confidently into the complex, sitting for a while outside one building
just as a domestic cat would. She then sauntered past reception,
where there were people inside and the door was mostly pulled shut.
She moved away from the buildings and the male approached her.
They were absorbed in each other and oblivious to our lights as they
mated right there, in the open, in the beam of our car headlights.
It had only been a couple of hours since I’d arrived at the Caiman
Ecological Refuge in Brazil’s southern Pantanal, and what I’d seen
was overwhelming. Here, the world’s largest wetland extends some
180,000 sq km across Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay. However, over 90%
of it is privately owned land, with cattle farming dominating a region
home to the Americas’ greatest concentration of wildlife. Sadly, the
two aren’t easy bedfellows, but I had come to see how a pair of projects
was not only changing minds locally but helping visitors to get closer
to the area’s rare wildlife in the company of those battling to protect it.

The road seldom taken

The four-hour car journey from state capital Campo Grande had been
enlivened by spotting rheas and flat fields full of grazing Brahman,
the off-white Asian cattle that thrive in the harshest parts of South
America. At one point the driver pulled up, gesturing excitedly. There
was a giant anteater ambling the verge; it was the first one I’d ever
seen and an extraordinary sight, but it disappeared quickly from view.
At the small town of Miranda we turned off the highway and started
down an unmade road, the earth now a distinctive orange-red
colour. A few kilometres on, we spotted another giant anteater in
the neighbouring cattle field. We pulled up and I slowly and quietly
approached the wire fence. The anteater was huge; the size of a large
golden retriever. It was oblivious to me as its long thin snout sought
out some of the 30,000 ants or termites it eats a day. I was close
enough to hear the noise its long, sticky tongue made, a sound akin
to someone sucking the end of a drink through a straw.
Driving on, we entered the Caiman Estancia, a working ranch that
is also home to the Caiman Ecological Refuge. Owned by rancher,
conservationist and businessman Roberto Klabin, it combines
ecotourism and conservation alongside traditional cattle farming.
We passed more fields before they gave way to a mosaic of habitats.
Rainy season was over but water still sat on the open areas of grassland,
filled with birdlife and snoozing caimans. As our accommodation at
Baiazinha Lodge came into sight, stilts raising it high above the water,
I wondered whether I had stumbled on some magical animal kingdom.
A pair of beautiful hyacinth macaws were sitting in a tree while a giant
anteater snuffled the banks of a stream below and a family of capybara
– the world’s largest rodent – grazed on the grass by the lodge. ⊲

78 | Wanderlust September 2018

 Brazil
Spotlight superstar
Juju strolling past the
rangers’ car, enticing
the male to follow her

Wanderlust September 2018 | 79


⊳ We pulled up and I was greeted by Jessica and Mario, who were
to be my guides for the next few days. They actually work for Projeto
Onçafari, the jaguar conservation project based at the ranch, and
so combine fieldwork and research with guiding interested visitors.
While excellent guides and activities are laid on for all guests, there
is also the opportunity for a more immersive conservation experience
by pre-booking to spend time with the project team, and I had opted
to do that for my whole stay.
I mentioned to them how much
‘It is illegal to hunt
wildlife I had seen in just the last couple
of minutes, including the fact there was
jaguars… but here in
a giant anteater just a couple of hundred
metres away. Jessica had a theory: “It’s
chilly today – winter has arrived and we
have a cold front from Paraguay. It can be the Pantanal, some
more common to see anteaters and other
animals in the daytime when it is cool.” farmers will kill them to
It was late afternoon and I’d been
travelling for over 24 hours, so it would
protect their livestock’
have been tempting to have a shower and
relax. But I was itching to get straight out and see even more. And
thank heavens I did, as it was minutes later that Mario got the call about
the jaguars having been seen and we then enjoyed three or four hours
of the most extraordinary wildlife watching I’ve ever experienced.
Changing attitudes
The next day Jessica gave me an introduction to the Onçafari project
– a pun on onça (pronounced ‘on-sa’), meaning ‘big cat’, and ‘on safari’.
Jaguar numbers are hard to estimate, given how secretive they are.
Brazil
However, what is known is that throughout the Americas their historic
range has shrunk by more than 50% and that their numbers are
a fraction of what they once were. Brazil is home to a major proportion
of the world’s jaguars, and since 1967 it has been illegal to hunt them.
But that hasn’t always been enforced as it should. Even here in the
Pantanal, some farmers will kill jaguars to protect their livestock.
Onçafari accepts that jaguars will kill cattle, usually calves or sick
animals. Farmers had been claiming they lost 10-to-20% of their
cattle each year to the feline predators,
but studies have shown that the real
number is far less. Indeed, here on the
ranch where a very healthy population
of jaguars live, fewer than 1% of cattle
is lost each year.
“It is easy to blame jaguars for any
missing or dead livestock,” explained
Jessica. The project is therefore trying
to develop and promote ways of
preventing conflict between jaguars
and farmers. It also aims to show that
a jaguar is worth more alive than dead, and can have a positive
socioeconomic impact on the region through tourism.
“A survey in the north Pantanal concluded jaguars cost US$56,000
a year in lost cattle but bring in up to $3 million a year in tourism,” said
Mario Haberfeld, co-founder of Projeto Onçafari, when I met him the
next day. “The farmers have always hated jaguars, but some are starting
to change. You have to show them numbers, so they can understand
how the jaguars are not killing as many cattle as they think, and how
much having the animals on their land can benefit them.” ⊲
Pantanal predators
(clockwise from this) Caiman congregate on the
banks of the Pantanal; giant anteater on the search
for the 30,000 termites a day that it eats; a caracara
with the small crab that it has just caught; burrowing
owls can be seen on look out on fence posts
Wanderlust September 2018 | 81
Brazil
⊳ Mario was fascinated by wildlife as a child and that passion has
stayed with him. “I used to be a racing car driver,” he told me. “When
I retired, I knew that I wanted to work in conservation. I spent two
years travelling to see wildlife and what was saving animals. I came to
Caiman with a ranger friend from South Africa. We said to Roberto
that people like the place, the food, the birds. But what they want to
see is jaguars. We need to make them viewable by people.”
And so began a plan to slowly habituate the jaguars on the ranch to
vehicles. “We started seeing jaguars regularly after three years of the
project,” Mario added. “Last year, 99% of
visitors viewed them in high season.”
‘Last year, 99% of
Other work that the project carries
out includes monitoring the jaguars
visitors viewed the
to learn more about them, so several
are collared and there are camera traps
along many trails. The ranch was also
the site of a successful reintroduction jaguars here in
programme where two orphaned cubs
were returned to the wild; this was high season’
even the subject of a BBC documentary
called Jaguars: Brazil’s Super Cats.
You would expect Mario to be against cattle farming but he was
actually positive: “Cattle saved the Pantanal,” he explained. “If there
was no livestock, people would have found a way to plant soy beans
or another agricultural crop, and that would have been disastrous for
the wildlife and ecosystem. Visitors are also interested in the local
Pantanal culture – it gives the place its identity.”
Of course, like most successful conservation programmes, the plan
is not just to save one species but a whole ecosystem. The jaguar is the
82 | Wanderlust September 2018
flagship species, but by helping it, the project benefits the economy,
creates jobs and preserves the Pantanal and all the other species who
live here. It’s not all about the jaguars, as I was about to discover.
Birds of a feather
Another long-running and highly successful wildlife project on the
ranch focuses on the largest species of parrot in the world, the hyacinth
macaw. It is endangered thanks to habitat loss and hunting, but the
Pantanal is still a stronghold because of the efforts of Projeto Arara
Azul (Hyacinth Macaw Project), founded
by Neiva Guedes in the early 1990s.
The next morning, after the usual
wake-up from the ‘Pantanal alarm clock’
(aka the raucous call of the chachalaca
bird), I joined Neiva and some of
her team as they toured the ranch
monitoring nests. The first stop was
a handsome tree very close to the lodge.
“This is a disputed tree,” smiled one of
the team. As well as a manmade nesting
box for hyacinth macaws, there was also
a pair of jabiru storks sat on a huge nest as well as a pair of nesting
ibis. They were all angry at us being there, each demonstrating their
profound displeasure through a different indignant call.
A metallic band was around the tree to try and prevent predators,
such as ocelots or opossums, from climbing it to reach the hyacinth
nest. Two of the team had on climbing equipment, and one went up
the ropes to monitor the nesting box. They took photos and reported
that there were no eggs yet, but that there were signs that the macaws

had been “exploring” it, and they had been building up the nest
with fresh wood chips, which they had pecked off the nest box.
One factor that surprised me, and probably doesn’t help in their
survival, is just how highly specialised (read limited) the macaws
are. Their main food source is the acuri tree, which produces even
in dry season. They eat the hard nut in the centre of the tree’s fruit,
and coexist well with the local livestock because cattle eat the fruit
but defecate or regurgitate the nuts that the macaws then devour.
“There are more than enough acuri trees in the Pantanal for the
birds to survive on,” said one of the researchers. “The limiting factor
here is the lack of trees to nest in. They will usually only nest in
manduvi trees, as they have a big enough trunk and are soft enough
to hollow out a nest.” These are in short supply, which is why the
nest boxes put up by the team have taken on such importance, given
they also have a higher success rate for the survival of chicks.
We spent the morning being squawked at by irritated macaws as
we visited tree after tree, some with cameras set within or above
them. We watched footage from one of the nests and could see a pair
of macaws being loving to each other. The birds are monogamous
and mate for life, living 40 to 45 years in the wild. “They spend a lot of
time cuddling,” said one of the team. “Macaws care very much for
their families and for each other. They really are partners.”
One final encounter
If having an insight into these projects was enhancing my visit, every
excursion was throwing up its own rewards. On one night drive we
spotted three handsome ocelots hanging around under a bridge,
lying in wait to catch fish. On the same drive a tapir, South America’s
largest native mammal, lumbered through a field next to the track
we were following. And sitting in an open vehicle at night with
Brazil
At a crossing…
Juju decides which way
to go; (left) a researcher
checks a hyacinth
macaw nest hollowed
out in a tree; hyacinth
macaws are one of the
largest and rarest
animals in the world
around 100 wild peccaries surrounding us will go down as one
of the most surreal, as well as smelliest, experiences I’ve ever had.
One activity I was keen to do was to get out on the water on
a sunset canoe trip. So, late afternoon on my last day, we headed out
in a vehicle. The sun was shining and it promised to be a glorious
sunset. But then the radio crackled into life. “There’s a jaguar!”
relayed Jessica. “It’s probably Juju. Do you want to go and see her?”
There could only be one answer.
A familiar head was peeping above some golden grass. Her senses
were alert and her ears twitched as she looked around, yet she
seemed entirely oblivious to our presence. As we watched on,
we wondered if she was looking for the male who had been her
love interest for the past day or two.
The minutes ticked away. “What do you want to do?” asked
Jessica, needing a decision. “If we leave now, we still have time
to make it to the canoes for sunset…”
I knew that Juju might stay where she was for hours, semi-
concealed by the long grass. And so I agonised what to do. But,
as I was about to acquiesce, Juju made up my mind for me, slowly
rising to her feet and stretching – almost teasing me to stay.
As cameras clicked,and the atmosphere between those of us
watching her became so charged that it felt tangible, Juju coolly
sashayed through the grass. Was she really so oblivious to us that
our presence made no difference? Or was she simply enjoying the
attention, the admiration, the adulation?
She passed within a few metres of us, reached the red-earth road
and paused. There she sat for a moment, looking for all the world
like a domestic tabby cat deciding which way to go. Slowly rising,
she sauntered off down the road. Engines started and we formed
a respectfully slow procession behind her, loyal subjects all.
Wanderlust September 2018 | 83
 The Pantanal, Brazil Footnotes
VITAL
STATISTICS
State capitals: Campo Grande (Mato
Grosso do Sul), Cuiabá (Mato Grosso)
Language: Portuguese
Time: GMT-4 (Oct-Feb GMT-3)
International dialling code: +55
Visas: Not required by UK nationals
Money: Brazilian real (BRL), currently
around BRL5 to the UK£
When to go
THE TRIP PANTANAL WILDLIFE HOT LIST
The author travelled to Brazil with Audley
Travel (01993 838610, audleytravel.com).
A similar 13-day tailormade trip costs
from £7,929pp (based on two sharing),
including flights, transfers, four nights at
Caiman Ecological Refuge, one night in
Cuiabá, two nights at Cristalino Jungle
Lodge in the southern Amazon, one night
in Rio and three nights at Casa Cairucu,
Paraty. The price also includes the
Hyacinth Macaw Project and a private
excursion with Onçafari at Caiman.

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
■ Best time to visit – winter is the
dry season, which makes it good for
wildlife spotting as the animals tend to
congregate around the remaining water.
■ Wettest season – rains usually
arrive in the late afternoon. A good time
for spotting chicks and jaguar cubs.
■ Shoulder months – rains gradually
cease during this period. Expect
beautiful watery landscapes and lots
of aquatic birds. Access is more limited,
Getting there & around
LATAM (latam.com, 0800 026
0728) flies from London to São Paulo from
£630 return. British Airways (ba.com) also
flies direct. From São Paulo, there are
flights to Campo Grande (from 1hr 50
mins), the main gateway to the southern
Pantanal, and Cuiabá (from 2hrs 20mins),
gateway to the north. Domestic carriers
include LATAM and Azul (voeazul.com.br).
Independent travel in the Pantanal is
Jaguar
The world’s third-largest cat, the
jaguar has power, presence and beauty.
1 and a giant pig. Capable swimmers, they
are sometimes spotted in the water, and
will happily use roads to get around.
difficult. Roads are unsurfaced and most The largest specimens are found in the However, they are mostly shy and
land is private. Transfers are usually Pantanal. Each has slightly different nocturnal, so a sighting is to be celebrated.
arranged by tour companies or lodges. markings, so they can be easily
recognised by researchers. 5 Jabiru stork
The tallest flying bird in South America,

2
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Health & safety

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Monterrey

bugs are a nuisance – take precautions Caiman Ecological

M E X I C Refuge The world’s largest flying parrot – and of the Pantanal, including the jaguar.
Cabo Falso Miami
BAHAMAS GULF OF MEXICO

7
O Sacred Valley

against getting bitten. (caiman.com.br) is in the southern one of theC Urarest. Hyacinth macaws have Capybara
HAVANA Varadero
Tampico
Guadalajara
VERACRUZ
Cabo Corrientes BA PUERTO
Leon Trinidad

Pantanal, 240km west of Campo Grande. a raucous cry, so HAITI

you’ll probably hearANTIGUA
themAND The world’s largest rodent looks like
Mérida
RICO Teotihuacán
Santiago de Cuba Jarabocoa Samaná

Further reading
MICHOACÁN Yucatan Tulum Los Haitises NP
MEXICO CITY Peninsula Mount SANTO

The author stayed at Caiman’s Baiazinha beforeJAMAICA

you see them. Most often seenBARBUDAin a rather cute giant guinea pig. It hangs out
PORT-AU-PRINCE
Pico Duarte DOMINGO

Acapulco

& Information
DOMINICAN San Cristóbel
Palenque KINGSTON
ST. KITTS Oaxaca

Lodge, which is set overlooking a lake. loved-up pairs. in large family groups and is easily spotted
BELIZE REPUBLIC de las Casas
AND NEVIS DOMINICA Tikal

4
Semuc
Todos Santos Champey Lívingston The Bay Islands
HONDURAS Quetzaltenango C A R I B B E A N S E A

Pantanal Wildlife (Bradt, 2010) Included activities and guiding are Tapir near water, grazing on grasses and aquatic
Lake Atitlán Copán
ST. LUCIA Antigua ruins Lake Yojoa
Gracias
La Mosquitia
GUATEMALA GUATEMALA
Monterrico TEGUCIGALPA
Cerro Verde NP Suchitoto
ST. VINCENT
oncafari.org – Onçafari Project, which excellent; excursions with the Onçafari Brazil’s largest native terrestrial GRENADA plants. In hot weather they may also be
SAN
NICARAGUA BARBADOS El Imposible NP
SALVADOR Leon LESS
ER A
EL SALVADOR Granada Pta. Gallinas Netherlands
NT
ILL
Ruta de Flores MANAGUA Aruba Antilles ES
The Corn Islands
PACIFIC OCEAN Volcán Masaya Lake Nicaragua
Ometepe Island

promotes conservation in the Pantanal

Tayrona NP

team and the Hyacinth Macaw Project cost mammal looks like the love-child of a hippo found wallowing in water or mud holes.
Gulf Curaçao Henri
of Venezuela PORT OF Tobago
Tenorio NP Guanacaste Barranquilla Morrocoy Pittier
SPAIN
Volcán Arenal
TRINIDAD & Nicoya Peninsula Jacó Tortuguero Portobello Cartagena
Panamá Viejo Ciudad Perdida Maracaibo
NP NP CARACAS
Paria Trinidad
COSTA RICA TOBAGO SAN JOSÉ
Panama
Canal (The Lost City) Barquisimeto
Valencia Peninsula

Western Brazil (Footprint, 2016) extra and should be booked in advance.

San Blás
PANAMA Manuel Antonio NP
Corcovado NP
Osa Peninsula
PANAMA Islands Lake
Maracaibo Ciudad
Delta del
Orinoco
Azuero Gulf of Darién
Cauca

Sierra Orinoco Guayana

Peninsula Panama Nevada NP

www.lata.travel – Latin American VENEZUELA

GUYANA
Travel Association Food & drink COLOMBIA SURINAME
FRENCH GUIANA
ATLANTIC OCEAN
The Pantanal is cattle-ranching
nco

country, so expect a lot of beef. Lodges

Bra

such as Caiman also offer plenty of variety

ECUADOR Ne
gro
Manaus Am
azo
n

More online with fish (catfish), beans, veg, fruit and

Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/189
for links to more content
ARCHIVE ARTICLES
Am
azon
vegetarian dishes. Expect to become
addicted to pão de queijo – cheesy
gluten-free dough balls. End the day with
a refreshing caipirinha, made with cachaça
PERU Alta Foresta

♦ Rio de Janeiro: Wild City – issue 187 (a sugarcane-based spirit), sugar and lime. Cuiabá BRASÍLIA Salvador
BOLIVIA
PA

♦ 9 Things You Must Do in Brazil – Poconé

N

Porto Jofre
What to pack
TA

online exclusive
N

Campo
AL

♦ Paraty: The Art of Slow – issue 173 Don’t forget binoculars – though PA Grande
PACIFIC RA
♦ First 24 Hours in São Paulo – issue 161 Caiman does have spares to hire to guests. GU São Paulo Río de Janeiro
3
OCEAN AY
♦ Southern Bahia: Uncharted Brazil Insect repellent is advised, especially
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime

Iguaçu ATLANTIC
– issue 151 outside of dry season. The author took Easter Island
CHILE Falls OCEAN
PLANNING GUIDES trousers, a shirt, a gilet and socks from ARGENTINA
♦ Brazil travel guide Craghoppers’ repellent-impregnated 0 300 km

NosiLife range – highly recommended. PAMPAS BUENOS AIRES R i o

La Plata
de
La
MONTEVIDEO
Plat
a
Punta del Este
San Rafael
C. Carranza Pta. Norte

Chillán Cabo San Antonio

Concepción
Sa

Mar del Plata

la

Pta. Lavapié Bahia Blanca

do

Co lorado Cabo Corrientes

84 |
Negro Bahia Blanca

Valdivia
y

Wanderlust September 2018

a

Viedma
m
Li

Pta. de la Galera Golfo San Matias

Bariloche
Puerto Montt Peninsula Valdés
Ch

Isla de Rawson
ub

Chiloé
ut

C. Quilán
A
N I

Comodoro Rivadavia
Archipelago de Lago Buenos Golfo de San Jorge
 Find the real Brazil
Let Sunvil introduce you to the fth largest country in the world: a
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wilderness of the Amazon and the Pantanal, home to some of the greatest
biodiversity on the planet, there is much to discover, enjoy and thrill.

The Sunvil promise

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• Holidays tailored to your taste

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From beautiful beaches, the tropical Amazon
Rainforest and a lively spirit, Brazil’s a
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experts, Wendy Wu Tours.

WHY BOOK WITH WENDY WU TOURS?

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CALL 0808 252 4114 OR contact your local travel agent T H E AWA R D -W I N N I N G TO U R S P E C I A L I S T
Visit www.swarovskioptik.com

WIN A PAIR OF SWAROVSKI
OPTIK BINOCULARS
Bring your travels into focus with these top optics
T
o make the most of your travels,
you need a good pair of eyes.
We’re not talking about your
own peepers, however, but
rather a grander pair of lenses:
binoculars. They really can add
depth to your adventures, whether out on safari
spotting lions that would otherwise be spooked
if you came any closer, or glimpsing cliff-hugging
puffins along an English coastline. And when it
comes to these visionary tools, the expert
architects are Swarovski Optik. While many
know the brand for its jewels, their range of
binoculars offer unrivalled crystal-clear sight,
and they’re offering you the chance to win a pair.
CLEAR AS CRYSTAL
When it comes to the design of their binoculars,
Swarovski Optik always has travel at the front of
their minds. The complete range are all compact
and light, perfect for packing in your luggage,
and they won’t weigh you down when you’re
out and about. Swarovski Optik’s latest offering,
the CL Companion, combines a slim look with
a smooth design that makes it comfortable to
hold – essential if you’re spending hours in a bird
hide or waiting for a fleeting glimpse of a brown
bear. Its impressive optics go without saying,
offering unparalleled clear sightings of shy
wildlife and distant landscapes.
It’s a piece of kit that’s highly regarded by
Wanderlust co-founder Lyn Hughes: “I first
came across Swarovski Optik binoculars when
I borrowed a pair from zoologist Jonathan Scott.
I took some with me on a recent trip to Brazil
and they helped me spot an ocelot – a moment
captured in crystal quality.”
In addition, its sister
product, the CL Pocket, is
even more compact. This
doesn’t compromise on
any of the optical quality
that bursts from these
binoculars every time
you peer through them.
Competition
Swarovski Optik’s range of expert binoculars are
built especially for travel. So, who better to judge
than a previous winner of the Wanderlust World
Guide Awards, one of travel’s unsung heroes?
Sue Guthrie, Gold Award winner in 2016, described
them as the best travel accessory she’d ever had
after winning a pair as part of her prize. That’s
a recommendation you can’t ignore…
REVOLUTIONARY TECH
It’s not surprising that Swarovski Optik’s binoculars
are coveted by experts, celebrities and travellers
alike. Ever since their first factory opened in
the alpine valleys of the Austrian Tyrol in 1949,
innovative design has been key. Nor is the Tyrol
a bad testing ground, with birds of prey swooping
its peaks, including vultures, buzzards and eagles.
Swarovski Optik has been based in the location
ever since, and not much has changed in their
desire to implement revolutionary tech in their
optics, either. The launch of their EL range in 1999
raised the bar in the long-range optics market in
terms of both visionary quality and design, and the
brand has been unmatched in the field since.
Swarovski Optik’s dedication to creating
a quality product is something that benefits all
kinds of traveller. With crystal-clear viewing
packed into such a tiny, easy-to-carry device,
your travels will well and truly be brought into
focus with a pair of Swarovski Optik binoculars.
HOW TO WIN
Swarovski Optik is offering you the chance to
win a pair of CL Companion binoculars and a
Wild Nature Accessory Pack – a prize worth over
£1,000. To be in with a chance of winning, just
answer the following question:
Q: Who founded the
Swarovski Optik
company?
a) Wilhelm Swarovski
b) Gustav Swarovski
c) Nigel Swarovski
To enter and for full terms and conditions and data
policies, please go to wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or
send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p2).
The closing date is 5 September 2018. State ‘More info’ if
you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or its sponsors.
9 OF THE BEST
WILDLIFE
EXPERIENCES
Seeing a creature in its natural habitat is one of the greatest
moments in travel – here is your guide to finding, tracking
and encountering the world’s most amazing species…
1 Penguin
RANGE: 20 million penguins live in
the Southern Hemisphere.
THE EXPERIENCE: The Antarctic Treaty
insists that you keep five metres between
yourself and a penguin. But just try telling
them that. Sat on an icy shore, trying to
keep both distance and composure, it’s nigh
on impossible not to attract the attention of
these curious birds, and it makes for an
encounter like no other.
NEED TO KNOW: Some 18 penguin species
live across the Southern Hemisphere, from
as far north as Ecuador’s Galápagos Islands,
where you can snorkel alongside its
endemic species year-round, to the shores
of the Eastern Antarctic’s Ross Island and its
vast colonies of tobogganing Adélie.
88 | Wanderlust September 2018
But you don’t always need a cruise ship.
You can swim alongside the braying (and
crotchety) jackass penguins of Cape
Town’s Boulders Beach in South Africa or
spot rare yellow-eyed species in the bays
of Dunedin, New Zealand, without ever
setting foot on a deck.
BEST PLACE TO SEE… The sub-Antarctic
island of South Georgia is perhaps the world’s
most famous penguin-sighting spot; cruises
(Nov–Mar) disembark on Salisbury Plain,
home to some 500,000 king penguins, for one
of the great wildlife sights (arrive Dec–Feb to
see chicks hatching). But whether spying
hundreds of Magellanic penguins on the
shores of Punta Tombo in Argentinian
Patagonia (Oct–Mar for breeding) or fending
off curious gentoos at Antarctic base Port
Lockroy, seeing these birds makes for an
unforgettable experience. ⊲
Wildlife

Beaky finders
A king penguin
surveys its
busy terrain
 2 Brown Bear
RANGE: Some 200,000 brown
bears live across North America,
Europe and Central Asia.
THE EXPERIENCE: Alaska’s famous brown
bears descend on its rivers in late summer
for one last big feed before hibernation,
and here they jostle for the best fishing
positions, trying (and often failing) to catch
their slippery prey. Watching from secure
viewing platforms and surrounded by a sea
of brown fur, it’s a sight like nowhere else.
Furry foraging
A brown bear
rummages around
the Alaska Wildlife
Conservation Center,
on the Seward
Highway, near Portage
NEED TO KNOW: Bears are not something you
want to encounter alone. Many parks have viewing
hides and platforms, or drives where you can stop
by the roadside (just look for any gathering of
vehicles) and catch one ambling along. But mostly
you’ll be out in the wild and vulnerable; for that
you need an expert guide/tracker who can
recognise prints and knows how to stay safe.
BEST PLACE TO SEE… In the US, Alaska’s Katmai
National Park is justly famous, with three
bear-viewing platforms within a couple of
kilometres’ walk of its fly-in camp (Jun–Sept),
as you spy bears fumbling with their prey
during the salmon run (July). Glacier NP in
Montana is another regular stomping ground
for bear-spotters, as is Waterton Lakes NP
over the border in Canada.
In Europe, northern Greece’s Pindus
Mountains, the Carpathian Mountains
(particularly Romania), the Western Tatras of
Slovakia, and even up in northern Sweden
(May–Sept) are all good locations. The rarest
sightings are found in Spain’s Asturias
region, where tours in late spring and
summer set off in search of its few-remaining
Cantabrian bears, of which approximately
250 still survive in the wild.

3
Rhino
RANGE: Less than 30,000 rhinos (five
species) live across southern Africa,
India, Nepal and Borneo.
THE EXPERIENCE: It’s sobering to think that
after one morning spent in India’s Kaziranga
National Park, you’ve probably glimpsed around
Previous spread and this Dreamstime
10% of the world’s population of greater
one-horned rhino. But as the long grass and low
mist hanging over the jungle thins and you’re
surrounded by rhino everywhere, it’s enough to
give you hope for these beleaguered animals.
NEED TO KNOW: While India claims the
one-horned variety, it’s Southern Africa that
is home to the largest number of rhinos (both
black and white). Black rhinos are harder to spot,
and not just because their numbers are fewer
(about 5,000); they stick to the undergrowth
and tend to be more active at night. White rhinos
(of which 93% live in South Africa) roam more in
the early morning, late afternoon and evening,
and you can tell them apart by their upper lips:
blacks have a hooked lip, whites a squared one.
Both will leave you speechless.
BEST PLACE TO SEE… The greater one-horned
rhinos of India’s Kaziranga NP are a rare
Wildlife
The big point
A rare white rhino
saunters through Meru
National Park, Kenya
conservation success story – their numbers
are on the up and sightings are likely. The same
goes for Chitwan NP in Nepal, where walking
safaris are permitted and poaching has been
all but eliminated in recent years.
The same sadly can’t be said of South
Africa, though the poacher-troubled Kruger
NP remains the undisputed king, home to some
10,000 white rhinos, about half that remaining
in the world. Just a handful of countries
(South Africa, Kenya, Zimbabwe and Namibia)
are home to 98% of Africa’s black rhino,
with Namibia’s Palmwag Concession in
Damaraland one of few place where black
rhino numbers are actually steadily rising. ⊲
Wanderlust September 2018 | 91
 4 Tiger
⊳

RANGE: An estimated 3,890

wild tigers live in Asia (from
India to the Russian Far East).

THE EXPERIENCE: Every hair on your

body stands on end. Every twig crackle
sends you into a minor frenzy as the
jeep driver quizzes rangers and studies
pugmarks to get the inside track. Then
you’re tearing through an Indian forest
to a clearing where a Royal Bengal tiger
looms in the undergrowth. Only then do
you remember to breathe.

NEED TO KNOW: Seeing tigers up close

isn’t easy. In 2016, global figures rose
for the first time in a century, according
to the WWF and Global Tiger Forum;
prior to that, tiger numbers across Asia
and Russia had fallen by around 95%
during the same period. A number of
national parks in India and Nepal offer
the chance to see these fantastic beasts
in the wild, though weekend visits can
be crowded. Typically, there are two
set safari times per day (dawn and
mid-afternoon), and be sure to choose
a smaller six-seater vehicle – it’s just
more intimate.

BEST PLACE TO SEE… In India,

little-visited Satpura Reserve in Madhya
Pradesh is a rarity in that it offers
walking safaris, though tiger sightings
are rarer there. Bandhavgarh (Madhya
Pradesh) has the highest density, while
attractive Ranthambhore (Rajasthan) is
easily accessible from Jaipur (so is busy)
and has seen rising tiger numbers in
recent years. Pench and Kanha (Madhya
Pradesh), Corbett (Uttarakhand) and
Periyar (Kerala) are all good options,
especially in dry season (Oct–Jun) when
water is scarce.
Nepal’s parks offer a more remote
setting, though, with Chitwan and the
lesser-visited Bardia both offering
walking and 4WD options (visit Oct–May). ⊲
Dreamstime
 Wildlife

Ready for bathtime

A big male awaits the
first rains of the season
in Ranthambhore
National  Park, India
 5
⊳
Polar Bear
RANGE: As few as 22,000 polar
bears live across Arctic and
sub-Arctic regions.

THE EXPERIENCE: Zipping amid crazy-paving

pack ice in a tiny Zodiac is how most people are
introduced to one of the most jaw-dropping
sights in the frozen north. Here, polar bears
linger on floating islands, hot-stepping ice floes
as they hunt seals. A remarkable sight.

NEED TO KNOW: Taking an expedition cruise is

the best way to see polar bears, with a small
ship (no more than 100 passengers) maximising
the number of Zodiac/shore excursions you can
take. These are also more manoeuvrable and
useful for reacting quickly to wildlife sightings.
Look for on-board expert naturalists and
a 24-hour bridge, so you can escape from the
cold when wildlife-viewing at midnight.

BEST PLACE TO SEE… Norway’s Svalbard

archipelago is one of the best locations around
to spy polar bears in the wild, with abundant
sightings in its less accessible northern and
western parts. For that, you’ll need a cruise
ship (Jun–Aug), though sightings can be had on
land-based snow-mobile trips around
Spitsbergen (Feb–Mar), or even on dog-sled
trips to the east.
If you’d prefer to stick to dry land, Churchill
in Manitoba, Canada, is the self-proclaimed
‘Polar Bear Capital of the World’, with bears
mooching across the frozen Hudson Bay
around October- and November-time, while
organised Tundra Buggy trips (look for
18-person vehicles to ensure you get a window
seat) tootle out to meet them.

Living on the edge

A polar bear investigates
the water at the base
of its ’berg in
Svalbard, Norway

6
Sloth
RANGE: Two- and three-toed sloths
are found across Central and
northern South America.
THE EXPERIENCE: You’re unlikely to just stumble
across a sloth in the misty rainforests of Latin
America. They hang stationary for long periods
(sleeping 8–10 hours a day in the wild), to the point
that algae even grows on their fur, camouflaging
them from predators and wildlife spotters.
7
⊲
Dreamstime
Because of this, local knowledge is invaluable if
you want to see that blissed-out smile beaming
down at you from the branches above.
NEED TO KNOW: Wandering sloth-friendly park
trails independently can yield encounters, but
using a guide massively increases your chance,
as the teams radio each other to report sightings
and their eagle eyes are more attuned to
spotting these well-camouflaged creatures. Be
sure to avoid any so-called sanctuaries that offer
to let you hold sloths; this is not good for the
animals and can cause them serious stress.
Wildlife
BEST PLACE TO SEE…Costa Rica is year-round
sloth central – it’s even on the currency! Home
to Hoffmann’s two-toed and brown-throated
sloths, you can see them anywhere but
concentrations are highest in the forests of the
Osa Peninsula; along the Pacific coast, such as
Manuel Antonio National Park; or Tortuguero NP
on the Caribbean side. However, those heading
north towards Monteverde and its famous
cloud-forest will only find the thick-furred,
nocturnal two-toed sloth; they can survive at
chillier altitudes, and though they are tough to
see, guided night tours are available. ⊲
Not so lazy
Sloths in the wild
sleep nowhere near
as long as their
reputation suggests
Wanderlust September 2018 | 95

7
⊳
Mountain
Gorilla
RANGE: A ten-year survey in western
equatorial Africa found over 360,000 gorillas
inhabit the region, though numbers are falling
THE EXPERIENCE: A silverback is a formidable
sight. You expect it to be ‘big’, but it’s the power
that blows you away. And while there’s a whole
lot of rules (sit low, don’t point, don’t stare)
when you see one, it can be hard to recall
Dreamstime
anything in the moment. Still, it’s worth it to
witness the intricate family dynamics of
a primate still living on the brink of survival.
NEED TO KNOW: Spotting gorillas in the wild
isn’t straightforward. Tours are the only way to
see them and these are subject to strict time
limits (typically an hour), while permits must be
secured in advance. Nor will you be allowed on
a tour if you’re sick, as infections can be passed
on to the primates. You need to be fit, too, as
you’ll be walking at altitude with no paths and
hikes can take from 30 minutes to ten hours.
Visits are easiest in the drier months (Jan–Feb;
Jun–Aug); discounts on permits can be found in
Wildlife
Wary wonder
A dominant male mountain
gorilla surveys his
audience in Bwindi
Impenetrable Forest
National Park, Uganda
wetter periods (Apr, May & Nov) but be warned
that the conditions are much harder going.
BEST PLACE TO SEE… In the north of Bwindi
Impenetrable Forest, Uganda, where three of the
nation’s 11 habituated gorilla families live, extended
visits (four hours) are permitted. Elsewhere,
Rwanda’s Volcanoes NP is famed for its gorillas, but
visits come at a cost (permit: US$1,500 compared
to Uganda’s US$450+). For a truly remote
escape, Odzala-Kokoua NP in Congo-Brazzaville
has a trio of fly-in camps, with ⊲
treks into its dense
biodiverse forests revealing families of western
lowland gorillas – a truly wild sight. ⊲
Wanderlust September 2018 | 97
 Grrrr & TTTlrlmaaa WTllliia HHlidTyy

01962 733051 www.naturetrek.co.uk

Naturetrek, Mingledown Barn, Wolf’s Lane, Chawton, Hants GU34 3HJ

9 Yucatán, Mexico
8 Wolf
⊳
RANGE: Remote areas of Canada,
Alaska, northern USA, Europe and Asia.
THE EXPERIENCE: You’re most likely to glimpse
wolves early in the day, but driving Yellowstone
National Park’s mist-enveloped roads at stupid
o’clock in a land of wandering bison can be a risky
business. Lying on a hump of land overlooking a
bend in a river, binoculars in hand, might not seem
like fun but seeing wolves requires patience, and
Dreamstime
the sight of a pack in full flow is unforgettable.
NEED TO KNOW: How you see wolves depends
on where you are. In Canada’s Denali NP,
distance and practicality means bus/vehicle
viewings are better, offering a higher vantage
point and more eyes, whereas ranger-guided
trips in Yellowstone NP, USA, are your best bet,
especially in winter when they retreat to the
remote corners of the park (a good time to visit,
as they’re easier to spot against the snow).
Some trips don’t even require sightings, with
Swedish wolf-howling tours a thrilling way to
re-connect with nature.
Wildlife
On the look out
A north-western
(timber) wolf sits
alert on a stone
BEST PLACE TO SEE… Good spots in North
America include: Yellowstone NP, Wyoming;
Denali NP, Alaska; and Bow Valley Parkway,
near Lake Louise, Canada, with these
northerly wilderness areas most accessible
between May and September.
In Europe, the Carpathian Mountains, particularly
Romania’s spectacular Zarnesti Gorge, are
a hotspot for Eurasian wolves year-round;
Ethiopia’s Bale Mountains are the last refuge of
its native lupines, which roam the Web Valley
and Sanetti Plateau (Sept–July). ⊲
Wanderlust September 2018 | 99
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WILDLIFE WORLDWIDE

9
⊲ Leopard
RANGE: Less than 14,000 leopards live
across sub-Saharan African and Asia.
THE EXPERIENCE: It’s hard to keep quiet as the
desiccated detritus of mopane and acacia
crackles underfoot; your eyes naturally flick back
to the armed guard bringing up the rear. Then
they point to a tree and you see a leopard in the
branches, freshly killed impala beneath its paws.
The animal glares, sniffs, shifts, then inches
down the trunk and disappears into the grass.
Fleeting but magical.
NEED TO KNOW: Leopards are elusive; seeing
one while on foot (only permitted in a handful of
areas) is a rare privilege. More likely is
Dreamstime; BBC NHU
a sighting from a safari vehicle, so try to visit
reserves where animals are used to humans,
otherwise they flee quickly. As the cats are
Spotted!
A leopard scans
the African
savannah for
antelope from
on high
nocturnal, choose areas where night drives
are permitted (although these aren’t allowed
in Sri Lanka’s Yala National Park). An expert
tracker/guide is key; they’ll know popular cat
hangouts and can read bush signals, such as
monkey warning calls.
BEST PLACE TO SEE… In Africa, sightings are
possible year-round, though are easier later in the
dry season (Mar–Nov) when the trees have fewer
leaves and the grass has died back. Top spots are
South Luangwa NP, Zambia, which is famous for
its guided walking safaris; Sabi Sand Game
Reserve, South Africa, which has a high density
of habituated cats; and the Okavango Delta in
Botwana, especially its Moremi Game Reserve.
In Asia, Sri Lanka’s excellent Yala NP virtually
guarantees sightings, though is best when water
levels are low (Feb–Jul), while leopard numbers
are rising fast in India’s Aravalli Range; visit Jawai
in southern Rajasthan for good sightings.
Wildlife
Liz Bonnin’s
wild moments
BBC science and
wildlife TV presenter
Liz Bonnin recalls
some of her best
animal encounters
1 Hammerhead shark,
Galápagos Islands
“If I had to chose one moment from my
time in the Galápagos, it would be diving
at Darwin’s Arch to watch hammerheads
congregate. The sharks come from all
directions and gather, swimming around
each other in big balletic circles. At the
very centre of this mass of hammerheads
are the oldest, most mature females. The
younger sharks swim around them. When
the males eventually come in to mate,
they’ve got to weave and wind their way
through this mass of bodies, so only the
strongest, fittest males will get to mate
with the females in the centre.”
2 Chimpanzee,
Tanzania
“Gombe National Park, where Jane Goodall
studied chimpanzees for many years, is
a special place. You first realise it as you
arrive by boat on Lake Tanganyika, thinking
how extraordinary it is that chimpanzees
are still living wild here. You have to work
hard at finding them; it is not easy terrain,
and in the rainy season it is very slippery.
But we were treated to the most wondrous
spectacle. A troupe of ten chimpanzees,
including a tiny baby, were playing and
vocalising in the thick bush. The baby was
jumping from one branch to another with
a joyful abandon that was just infectious.”
3 Meerkat,
Kalahari Desert
“I spent some time with these animals
in Africa’s Kalahari region (Botswana,
Namibia and South Africa). We went out
under the cover of darkness and, when the
sun rose, watched their little heads pop up
as they emerged to face the sun and warm
up their bellies. Once warm, they started
foraging frantically for every grub and
scorpion they could find. I loved the way
that the whole group takes care of all the
little ones. It’s very close knit, and it was
a treat to walk with them as they foraged.”
Liz’s new three-part series wildlife series,
Animals Behaving Badly, is available to
watch on the BBC iPlayer now. See
wanderlust.co.uk for the full interview.
Wanderlust September 2018 | 101
From The Road

FROM THE ROAD

Letters, tips, photos & exploits from you, our endlessly adventurous readers

Go marching on… YOUR TIPS ON…

POLAR ADVENTURES
The king penguins of
South Georgia are just
some of the delights
of the sub-Antarctic
From using vodka to stop your water bottle from
freezing to swapping a Zodiac for a kayak, here’s
your top advice for any trip to the polar regions…

Witness changing landscapes

“Try to experience the amazing scenery at different times of the
day, from early dawn to sunset. The quality of light is astounding,
whether you’re into photography or not. You’ll be humbled by
the experiences you have, as well as the wildlife there. Also, take
a notebook to record where you went and what you see and do.”
David French

102 | Wanderlust September 2018


Keep a spare battery
“Always keep a spare, fully-charged camera
battery in an inside pocket or somewhere
close to your body for warmth. The freezing
temperatures can easily lead to battery
failure – and usually just as you’re about
to take that fabulous photo.”
Norma Hornby
Glove me for a reason…
“Fingerless gloves are particularly useful
for handling camera equipment. Wear
them under thick windproof gloves, so
you can keep your hands warm when
you need better dexterity.”
Shelly Perkins
Only around 90% of
blackcurrants make it…
to the Arctic
“A hot flask of Ribena was the best thing on
a cold trip out to Finland – a sweet and warm
energy boost. It wouldn’t have occurred to
me but I really appreciated it while trekking
through the snow and cross-country skiing.”
Jane Druce
Greenlanders love fruit
and chocolate
“If you’re off to Greenland, take fruit and
chocolate with you. They’re like gold dust
for local people, who really appreciate them.
I gave a traditionally dressed local lady an
apple and a Mars bar, which I had on me.
She was initially a bit shy but my offerings
opened up a lovely chat. Next time I go,
Dreamstime; Alamy
I’ll take more of a variety with me.”
Cat Turner
Pole positions
(clockwise from this)
Kayaking is a great way
to see the polar sights;
penguins can be
poor respecters of
personal boundaries;
wrap up warm
Pack sunglasses
“You definitely need good sunglasses. It
never hits you how bright the snow can be
until you suddenly see the sun shining
down on it all around you. A decent set of
crampons wouldn’t go amiss, along with
some hand and feet warmers.”
Deepak Devi
Pay attention to the pros
“Listen to all the advice from the polar
travel experts. They know what to expect,
and you don’t realise how cold it can be until
you’re actually there. You will never have
experienced anything like it before!”
Chris Nelson
Spend a penny before
getting dressed
“Get used to going to the toilet before
dressing in your thermals and layers of
clothing. Minimise having to undress
at inopportune times or learn to do it
in a quick and practised method!”
John Turner
In association with
Swap a motor for a paddle
“If you’re travelling to Antarctica, take the
option to kayak rather than the standard
Zodiac landings. On the kayak you’ll get
incredibly close to the wildlife and have
encounters you can’t see from the fast and
noisy Zodiac, like seals sleeping on ice floats
or leopard seals chasing penguins. Also, you
don’t get much exercise on the ship, so a mix
of kayaking and walking onshore is great.”
Sari Kaufmann
Alcohol is great antifreeze
“Add just a splash of vodka to your water
bottle and it will stop any liquid from
freezing up when it gets really cold.”
Stuart Francis
Tips for a cruise in
the Antarctic
“Keep your camera wrapped
in a warm scarf and the spare
battery in a glove (and within
a waterproof bag when heading to shore),
as extreme cold drains the power. Get
your camera out only when you need to
use it, both to keep it warm and so you’re
not looking through a viewfinder all the
time. It’s better to live in the moment!”
Rowena Stack
Adventure specialist
Visit our website to submit your suggestions
for next month’s tips on ‘Hong Kong & Macao’
Wanderlust September 2018 | 103
YOUR
■ Readers’ Pictures

PHOTOS
Been somewhere beautiful? Done something amazing?
Email fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk – make us jealous!

“Taking in the snowy landscapes of

the Rocky Mountains in the USA.”
Mark Sutton

“On a three-hour boat journey “Ski touring on a moody day

upstream to Taman Negara in the Lyngen Alps in Norway.”
National Park in Malaysia.” Chris Dale
Rowena Paxton

104 | Wanderlust September 2018

 From The Road

“Gemma, my daughter, sitting in

a jungle nest at the Uma Pakel Agro
Tourism Centre in Gianyar, Bali.”
Sally Haywood

Where does your

“Riding camels in Egypt
with my 16-year-old
granddaughter, Rocky.”
Sarah Hewat Jaboor
Wanderlust take you?
Every month, we ask ‘Where does your
Wanderlust take you?’, giving you a chance
to win a goody bag including a versatile High
UV with Insect Shield Buff® – the ultimate
travel accessory (£22.50 RRP). But can you top
Sally (above)? Show us where your Wanderlust
takes you and where you take your Wanderlust!
Take your magazine with you on your next trip
and share a pic with us. Post it on our Facebook
wall, tweet it to us at @wanderlustmag, email it
to fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk or hashtag
it #wanderlustmag on Instagram.

“Lying on the ice while a couple

of locals wander past in Antarctica
– my most wonderful moment!”
Leeanne Hart

“Taking in the views on the Campuhan

Ridge Walk in Ubud, Bali.”
Nikki Skinner

Wanderlust September 2018 | 105

 LETTERS
■ 10-second travels

YOUR
TALES OF…
WEIRD FOOD
Your mail and missives: fun on the high seas, Sepik MARKETS
souvenirs, mayoral schmoozing and much more...

the Sepik River in Papua New
Guinea [July/August 2018, issue
188]. Having done a tailor-made
trip recently, I can say that it
was the experience of a lifetime
and worth every penny and
mosquito bite!
However, I was driven to tears
when I realised I couldn’t take
home any masks or artefacts
because I was flying via
Australia. So, beware: you’re not
allowed to take anything even
Loving Ecuador remotely organic (including the
In 2016 we spent a month in Ecuador, mostly in cloud and shells, wood and fibres of which
rainforests. We then went for five days to the Napo Wildlife these masks usually comprise)
Centre. What a wonderful spot. But the journey – first by through any Australian airport.
motorised boat for about 1.5 hours, then by paddle canoe for Fly via Singapore or elsewhere
an hour – was special. The centre was run by Kichwa men while if you want to purchase the very
the ladies ran the village downstream. Our guide was Lena and items I so sadly missed out on.
our Kichwa guide was Meletón – both excellent. Do go, it’s lovely. Jackie Horsewood, Telford
Mary Ferguson, via email
Canada catch-up
I recently returned from Alberta,
★ STAR LETTER ★ take note of your survival tips where I was visiting family and
– preparation is key! friends, and was flicking through
Choppy travels I don’t regret this journey; it your ‘Canada: Trip Planner’ [April
Your ‘16 Fantastic Voyages’ was a unique experience with 2018, issue 185] when I realised
feature [June 2018, issue 187] both highs and lows, and the that I had covered the first bit of
brought back memories of the bond I formed with my fellow your ‘Prairies to the Rockies’
five-night journey I took from travellers has endured. Boy, did section. I visited my school
Panama to Colombia via the we party when we hit Cartagena, friend in Edmonton, then went
San Blas archipelago. These are but that’s a different story! to Calgary. I know the Mayor of
beautiful islands, and it was Jonny Hopps, Manchester Calgary, who is a friend of my
a privilege to meet the indigenous cousin, and it was great to catch
people of these tiny communities Mask mix-up up and see the progress with his
that are connected only by boat. Thanks for your superb article bid for the 2026 Winter Olympics.
The first three nights were on the wonders of travelling up Lisa Syne Islington, via email
spent around the relaxing waters
Beware the oncoming train
“At the Maeklong Railway Market
(pictured) in Thailand, they pull the
stalls out of the way for a train to
pass, then push them back when
it’s gone. You wander the tracks,
with stalls on each side selling
everything from frogs to sweets.”
Rachel Dayan
Cricket crisps
“At the market in Oaxaca, Mexico,
there were gigantic bags of
crickets everywhere. People
seemed to be snacking on them
like they were crisps.”
Alison Blencowe
Just like the movies
“In Copacabana, Bolivia, I went to
a street market that only sold
popcorn. Dozens of stalls selling
nothing but the same popcorn.”
Caroline Antell
Grilled guinea pig
“In Cusco, Peru, there was a food
market with lots of different foods
made by local people. I ended up
eating a guinea pig that had been
spit-roasted on a stick.”
Katie Joint
Top-end tuk-tuks
“Chorsu Bazaar in Uzbekistan

of the Caribbean. The spirits of
all 14 passengers and three crew
were high, despite the cramped
conditions. Then came the open
sea crossing to Cartagena, which
was a test of endurance for two
nights. My shipmates dropped
like flies with sickness, and I must
emphasise to your readers to
WIN
can’t be missed – it’s topped by
a giant green dome. The brightly
Wanderlust goodies coloured mountains of spices are
Each issue, our winning a wonderful sight, too.”
contributor bags a haul Helga Boom
of Wanderlust gear.
Go online to share your ‘10-second
This time, congratulations travels’ stories on next month’s
to Jonny! topic: unexpected adventures

106 | Wanderlust September 2018

 From The Road

This month you have

■ Experiences

JUST BACK
FROM...
Norfolk Island
Reader Brenda
Boulton recalls
her trip to the
Australian Pacific
island escape
The highlight: I celebrated my
77th birthday on Norfolk Island
on their Bounty Day on 8 June,
which was special. I also saw
dozens of migrating whales
off Fraser Island – six weeks
earlier than expected – and wild
koalas on Magnetic Island.
Must see: Norfolk Island, as
a whole, and Australia’s
Sunshine Coast, too.
Top tip: Treat yourself to a float
plane trip over the Great Barrier
Reef and the Whitsunday Islands,
then land on Whitehaven
Beach to finish.
Cautionary tale: Even though
we went during their winter
period, it was still really hot.
I wish I’d known... To warn my
family that internet access on
Norfolk Island is hit and miss.
Anything else? People should
know that getting old(er) isn’t
a barrier to adventure holidays.
I travelled by Greyhound bus
and stayed in YHA hostels
from Brisbane to Cairns.
been mostly...
Remembering England’s
charms: “I recall how small
the doorways in Castle Combe
were! I wonder if it’s changed
much.” Kerrin Lithgow
Learning how other cultures
deal with heat: “A tradition in
Korea during Sambok (the hottest
days around solstice) is to eat
chicken soup with ginseng. Allegedly
it rejuvenates you in the heat!”
@MCAdventureBlog
Being inspired by our mag:
“Reading @wanderlustmag
about safaris in Zimbabwe and now
I really want to go!” @lolylena
Getting sore hands on board
foreign trains: “I remember
how the Indian passengers
clapped and cheered at every
tunnel – there were over 100
tunnels!” Moira Southwell
Looking forward to an icy
adventure: “Counting down
to an epic 24-day expedition cruise
in the Arctic – Svalbard to
Greenland and Iceland. Hope the
polar bears are as excited!”
@papaoscar55
Loving our latest issue:
“Great edition! I love the
polar article.” Sometimeswithkaren
Wowed by kaleidoscopic
Australia: “The Vivid Festival
in Sydney is so bright and colourful.
I’d love to photograph it one year.”
@NatashaBalletta
Eyeing up Slovenia’s nature:
“The trekking and caves look
attractive.” Celeste Chong

PHOTO OF
THE MONTH
Wetterstein mountains,
Germany
Sebastian Boblist
“It was a sunny but cold autumn
day in the German-Austrian
borderlands when I shot the photo
of the Wettersteinspitze. Frozen
sweat formed little threads on
my knit cap. My route took me
over Kranzberg and along Lake
Ferchensee and Lake Lautersee,
near the beautiful town of
Mittenwald in Bavaria.
On the way back, the trail
opened for this panoramic view on
to the Wetterstein summit, where
I took this photo. Thanks to the
time of day and time of the year,
the trail was very lonely and I could
take some pictures of the path and
Dreamstime; Wanderlust reserves the right to edit letters

the Wettersteinspitze.”

TALK TO US: Email fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk Mail Wanderlust, 1 Leworth Place, Windsor, SL4 1EB
Twitter @wanderlustmag Facebook www.facebook.com/wanderlusttravelmagazine Instagram @wanderlustmag
Wanderlust September 2018 | 107
WIN! A TRIP TO COLOMBIA
WORTH £1,300 £2,000
Discover colonial charms, wild parks and ancient treasures with Tucan Travel

F
illed with wildlife-rich national
parks, colonial cities and sweeping
beaches, Colombia has long drawn
adventurers to spy its diverse array
of landscapes. It’s this combination
of wild, old and new that is seeing
travellers once again return to this incredible land
that has so much to offer.
With an ever-improving infrastructure, friendly
locals and a rugged landscape, Colombia is also
an ideal destination for those going it alone. An
expert eye is needed, however, to really unearth
the charms of this Latin American wonder, and
that’s where tour operator Tucan Travel comes in.
As experienced purveyors of solo travel and South
American escapes, they’re offering you a chance
to win a single spot on their Classic Colombia trip.
CAPITAL HIGHS &
CATHEDRAL LOWS
Your solo Colombia journey begins in the capital,
Bogotá, a place where urban cool fuses with
colonial grandeur. Cobbled lanes weave colonial
facades in the historic La Candelaria district, with
the central square, Plaza Bolívar, an ideal place
for soaking up the buzzing city atmosphere. The
neoclassical Primatial Cathedral looms nearby,
while the former home of Simón Bolívar sheds
light on the military hero who liberated many
Latin countries from Spanish rule. Then drop
by the city’s Gold Museum, which holds
thousands of artefacts dating back to the
pre-Columbian era, or hop on the funicular and
soar up Monserrate peak for fine citywide views.
Leaving the heights of the capital, you’ll
quickly discover how diverse Colombia really
is. An hour’s drive north leads you to the salty
masterpiece that is the subterranean Zipaquirá
Cathedral, created inside a vast salt mine. Revel
in its tunnels and caverns before heading for the
charming plazas and courtyards of colonial Villa
de Leyva. A quick flight transports you to Neiva,
a gateway to Tatacoa Desert where rich red
sands ripple across a landscape studded with
rock formations – the ideal viewpoint for sunset.
From there, head west deep into the Andes to
San Agustín. Bogotá may have offered a glimpse
into the pre-Columbian precious metal collection,
but spying the era’s UNESCO-listed statues in the
town’s namesake Archaeological Park will provide
one of the trip’s golden moments.
GLIMPSING THE PAST
You leave the Andes for even more remote
climes, venturing into the misty hills that
surround Tierradentro. However, as gorgeous
as the setting is, you need to head beneath
the earth for the real treasure. Elaborate pre-
Columbian paintings adorn underground burial
chambers carved into volcanic rock, a network
of tombs dripping with mystery and intrigue.
Away from the wilderness, Colombia’s mix of
cities are a big lure for travellers, and the next
part of your adventure is spent delving into
a diverse pocket of urban delights. In the west,
Cali harbours a vibrant Afro-Caribbean culture,
where rhythmic beats throb from bars and locals
dance with a passion that’s infectious. From
there, fly north to Colombia’s Caribbean
coastline. Your first stop is Santa Marta, reputedly
South America’s oldest European-founded city,
with a crumbling colonial heart that has been

spruced up in recent years. More importantly, it’s  TRAVEL WITH THE SOLO
a great base for exploring Tayrona National
Natural Park, a slice of car-free Caribbean
heaven, where golden beaches fringe thick, lush
rainforest. A web of walking trails offer prime
access to this magical wilderness and guided
treks hike past remote villages clinging to
mountainsides, vine-wrapped ancient ruins and
a refreshing snorkel surrounded by tropical fish.
But perhaps the best city is saved until last.
Cartagena is a UNESCO-listed walled gem
more akin to an open-air museum than another
colonial city. Fine architecture lurks behind every
narrow street corner, pretty balconies seep with
hanging plants and pastel-washed churches
watch over airy plazas. Away from the walled
wonder, Castillo San Felipe de Barajas is perched
on San Lázaro hill and is a well-preserved 17th-
century fortress built by the Spanish to protect the
city’s burgeoning gold, silver and tobacco trades.
The whitewashed convent that sits atop La Popa
hill is another site of interest but also boasts an
eye-bulging panorama of Cartagena – the perfect
way to end your Colombia trip.
Competition
Land of plenty
(clockwise from this)
Explore the pristine
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ADVENTURE EXPERTS HOW TO WIN
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belts and a catalogue of over 450 trips across reader the chance to win one spot on its Classic
70 countries, Tucan Travel are experts in worldly Colombia trip, including a contribution of up to
£650 towards flights. To be in with a chance of
adventure. And for those travelling solo, rest
winning, just answer the following question:
assured that you’ll be joined by guides skilled
at integrating like-minded travellers and instilling
a family feel within the group. They care of all the
nitty gritty, such as the accommodation and
Q: What day is Colombia’s
independence celebrated?
(a) 20 June (b) 20 July (c) 20 August
logistics, leaving you to delve deeper into this
country in the company of newfound friends. To enter, and for full terms & conditions and data policies,
please go to wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or send
All this makes Tucan Travel the ideal your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p2); state
company to help you achieve the ultimate ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or
Colombian solo adventure. Explore a land its sponsors. The closing date is 5 September 2018.
where eye-popping horizons, colonial wonders
and a melting pot of culture meet in one
glorious setting. It’s a true South American
gem and one that’s waiting for you to discover
its abundant charms.
For more information, visit tucantravel.com
 TRAVEL
PHOTO
OF THE
YEAR
THE WINNERS RETURN

THAILAND

The winners of 2016’s Wanderlust Photo of the Year competition were

sent on the photography commission of a lifetime to the temples,
islands and wild parks of Thailand. Here are the thrilling results…
Thailand
F
rom shimmering white-sand
shores to the compelling
history of its ancient temple
complexes, Thailand has
long been seen as one of
travel’s golden locations.
But it’s not just its gilded reputation that
draws visitors. Whether gazing on the lush
emerald palms that shade its beaches, the
neon streaks that are splashed across the
skyscrapers of Bangkok or the limpid-blue
waters that ripple around the leafy coast,
Thailand is a gift to travelling photographers.
This is a country that provides a wealth
of colourful experiences. For visiting lens
lovers, its landscapes are just one facet of its
appeal. Away from the endless scenic
horizons, plenty of opportunities for
spectacular shots await amid the crumbling
temples, the inquisitive hill tribes of the
north and the many bustling markets.
This is why Thailand was the ideal
destination to send three of the winners
of our 2016 Wanderlust Travel Photo of the
Year competition. Our trio went in search
of wild vistas, busy urban life and an exotic
melting pot of cultures far beyond the beach
honeypots that most visitors enjoy, and what
they found exceeded all expectations.
Inquisitive wildlife
With such a rich array of landscapes, it’s
no surprise that Thailand is teeming with
wildlife – much more than it’s given credit
for. Elephants slink through the misty
mountains of Chiang Mai, myriad birdlife
twitters in the jungles of Khao Sok National
Park and macaques chatter on the tropical
Meet our photographers...
Christopher roche
People category winner
“Having recently been to Mount
Kailash in Tibet, Chechnya and
Kurdistan, it was suggested that I might enjoy
visiting Thailand’s northern hill tribes. But I had in
mind a plan to visit the country’s famous shores
instead and was given some great options.
The challenge was to try and shoot something
original, so I headed for the lesser-developed
islands and focused my lens on seascapes and
landscapes (particularly the fabulous limestone
karst formations). I aimed to capture a sense of
calm, leisure and rest – as that was what I was
hoping for myself – and that is exactly what I got.”
For full interviews with our photographers and to see their photo galleries, visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/189.
112 | Wanderlust September 2018
isle of Koh Phangan. While wildlife tourism
in Thailand makes some travellers wary,
particularly when it comes to unsavoury
elephant-riding tours, our winners were
really impressed with how the country
is promoting more ethical ventures.
“My most memorable moments were in
the elephant sanctuaries of Kanchanaburi,”
says Julia Wainwright, winner of the Wildlife
category. “Learning about the actions being
taken to reduce their exploitation, visiting
two very different rescue centres and even
playing a small part in looking after some
elephants was a mind-changing experience.”
But wildlife in Thailand isn’t always found
in the wildest places. “A great photographic
moment came in Lopburi, where we were
taking pictures of the macaques that had
made the town their home. I chatted to one
local who, despite the fact they raided their
homes at every opportunity, seemed to treat
them like they were his extended family.”
Warm & friendly locals
Thailand is a place much heralded for its
impressive scenery and ancient history, but
it’s the locals that really bring this country
to life. “I was really impressed by the warm
hospitality of the Thai people,” explains
Travel Icon winner Sanghamitra Sarkar.
For Sanghamitra, Thailand was a country
that offered a diverse and enchanting mix of
human interaction. Nowhere was this better
felt than during the lantern festival of Yi
Peng, where a blend of people (and not just
those from Thailand) came together to
release thousands of glowing dots into the
sky. It was an experience she counted as one
Julia wainwright
Wildlife category winner
“Wildlife photography was my
original plan, but this trip became
more about urban macaques, elephant welfare
and birdlife, introducing unique photographic
challenges to what was an enjoyable, full-on
experience. In Lopburi, I saw the difficulties
arising from people and macaques living in close
proximity, and at the elephant sanctuaries in
Kanchanaburi I saw first-hand the dedication of
the people working to improve the animals’ lives,
while Samarn Bird Camp and Kaeng Krachan
National Park allowed me to photograph birds
and mammals I’d not seen before.”
of her most indelible; lanterns became the
theme for her adventure, having also
witnessed a group of monks releasing them
from Wat Phan Tao temple in Chiang Mai.
Lovely landscapes
For Christopher Roche, winner of the
People category, Thailand offered a whole
new challenge. Ordinarily, Christopher
would be drawn to a destination’s human
culture, but instead he found an altogether
different muse in the coast: “My favourite
spot was the island of Koh Yao Noi because
even though it was small, it was really easy to
get off the beaten track.”
It wasn’t just the rural side of Thailand
that caught the eye (and lens) of our winners.
“I loved the city of Chiang Mai because of its
large number of beautiful temples dotted
throughout,” adds Christopher. Certainly,
anyone looking to see another side of this
ancient country would agree.
Diverse wonders
As our three competition winners discovered,
Thailand is full of epic experiences. “There
is something to see around every corner,”
says Julia, “whether it was the hustle and
bustle of Bangkok or the quiet solitude of
the national parks and villages in between.”
For the bulk of adventurous travellers,
the chance to explore beyond packed
beaches and unravel a country filled with
wild delights, compelling culture and,
above all, friendly locals is what draws
them to Thailand. And, to the delight
of all three of our competition winners,
that’s exactly what they found.
Sanghamitra sarkar
Travel Icon category winner
“There was so much from my
trip to Thailand that stood out.
The lantern-releasing festival where people
from all over the world come to release
lanterns together under a clear night sky will
remain with me for life. Bangkok was a study in
contrasts, with its multi-storied shopping malls,
street bazaars and food stalls. The magnificent
ruins of Ayutthaya and its Buddha statues are
now among my all-time favourite photographic
destinations, and the warm hospitality of the
Thai people and the caring attitude of my tour
guide during my trip touched me deeply.” 
Thailand’s many faces
(previous spread) “Being the gateway to the gorgeous
Andaman Islands, Krabi’s turquoise waters and
pristine beaches have attracted many to its shores.
With a myriad of natural assets that offer visitors a
wide array of outdoor activities, it is no wonder that
Krabi is a traveller’s paradise.” Sanghamitra;
(this page; clockwise from top left) “Watching the sun
set over Layana Resort on Koh Lanta.” Christopher;
“The view from Cape Kudu on Koh Yao Noi was truly
unforgettable.” Christopher; “A young long-tailed
macaque at Phra Prang Sam Yot in Lopburi.” Julia;
“A Taoist worshipper dressed to celebrate the Chinese
Vegetarian Festival.” Julia; “Wat Rong Khun, better
known as the ‘White Temple’, is one of the most
recognisable temples in Thailand. It lies outside the
town of Chiang Rai and attracts a large number of
visitors, both local and from abroad, making it one
of Chiang Rai’s most iconic attractions.” Sanghamitra;
“The Akha are an indigenous hill tribe who live in
small villages at higher elevations in the mountains
of Thailand, Burma (Myanmar), Laos and China’s
Yunnan province.” Sanghamitra
Thailand
From lakes to lights
(clockwise from this)
“Seeing the fisherman at
dusk, off Koh Yao Noi, made
for a compelling shot.”
Christopher; “A mahout
bathing a rescue elephant
in Kanchanaburi.” Julia;
“A line of Buddha statues
in the ruins of Ayutthaya.”
Sanghamitra; “The young
monks are busy releasing
sky lanterns in Wat Phan
Tao temple, Chiang Mai,
during the Yi Peng festival.”
Sanghamitra
Thailand

Vivid Thailand
(clockwise from top left)
“The Karen tribe are
known for their women,
who wear golden rings
around their necks.
According to the tribe,
the longer the neck,
the more beautiful the
woman.” Sanghamitra;
“There are some 300
temples in Chiang Mai
alone, often richly
decorated and
containing beautiful
mural paintings depicting
scenes from the life of the
Buddha.” Sanghamitra;
“A local artisan making
umbrellas in Bo Sang
village.” Sanghamitra

116 | Wanderlust September 2018

Golden wonders
(clockwise from top left)
“Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
is a sacred site to many
Thai people.” Sanghamitra;
“The head of a sandstone
Buddha is overgrown by
a banyan tree in Ayutthaya.”
Sanghamitra; “A monk
at Wat Lok Molee temple,
decorated with colourful
lanterns.” Sanghamitra;
“The limestone karsts
of Hong Island Bay.”
Christopher
 Thailand

More
online
For full interviews with our
photographers and to see their
photo galleries, visit
www.wanderlust.co.uk/189.
To enter this year’s
competition,
turn to page 120.

Wanderlust September 2018 | 119

 W!
IN OUR
NO
IES Y
TR ND
EN SE

TRAVEL
PHOTO OF
THE YEAR
2018
Enter and win a photo commission to
HONG KONG and MACAO

Y
ou’ve been sending in your
entries for the Wanderlust Travel
Photo of the Year 2018 by the
thousand, but there’s still plenty
of time to submit your images for the UK’s
biggest travel photography competition.
The standard of entry has, as always, been
incredibly high, and if you’ve got a dazzling
shot capturing a unique moment from your
travels, whether from a recent escape or
just gathering pixel dust on a forgotten
memory card, then send it to us now!
Please note that the competition is only
open to amateur photographers, with the
four category winners (along with a travel
companion of their choosing) sent on
a fantastic Wanderlust photo commission to
Hong Kong and Macao courtesy of the
Hong Kong Tourism Board and Macao
Government Tourism Office.
Win a commission
While Hong Kong conjures images of
glittering towers and neon bustle, you need
only stroll its old neighbourhoods or quiet
island fishing communities to realise that
tradition still forms a vital part of life here.
Whether it’s dancing dragons hot-footing the
labyrinthine streets, the aroma of freshly lit
incense at Po Lin Monastery or the snap of
a firecracker, links to the region’s cultural
MGTO; HKTB (top right)
past invade the senses of travellers. Ancient
festivals and a dizzying array of temples bring
Hong Kong’s culture into focus and ensure
Something old,
something older
Macao’s European-
style cobbled old
streets (left) offer
a contrast to its
Asian traditions
that those exploring its villages, island fringes
and urban centre can gain a glimpse into a life
far beyond the high rises.
Macao is a mere 60km from Hong Kong
but its culture couldn’t be more different
thanks to its twin heritage. The Portuguese
side of its history is easily explored in its
food, the steeples of its churches and the
piazzas of the Historic Centre of Macao that
sees thousands of locals form a procession on
the Feast Day of Our Lady Fátima. Alongside
Macao’s Mediterranean heritage exists
a strong Chinese culture, too, with dragon
boat racing on Nam Van Lake and temples
that stood here long before the Portuguese
cast their gaze eastwards. The two exist side
by side, serving up remarkable shots of
a culture split down the middle.
It is because of these unique settings that
Wanderlust has joined with the Hong Kong
Tourism Board and Macao Government
Tourism Office to send the four winners
of this competition to Hong Kong and Macao
on a once-in-a-lifetime photo commission.
How to enter
Submissions can be shot wherever and
whenever, but they must fit into one of
our four categories: People, Wildlife,
Landscape or Travel Icon. Whether you’ve
captured the Taj Mahal from an original
angle or a grizzly bear mid-lunch, just
send them in for our judges to review.
Closing date is 15 November 2018 ⊲
FESTIVAL FEVER
HONG KONG
Hong Kong’s festivals reveal a territory built
on villages and islands that still hold to their
traditions. Many are rooted in old fishing
communities, such as the eccentric Bun
Festival on Cheung Chau island, which
honours the god of the fisherfolk and ends
in a scramble up a tower of buns. Or explore
the temples of the sea gods Tin Hau and
Tam Kung on their respective birthday
festivals to see parades and performers
lighting up the city streets. But perhaps the
most dramatic celebration is found in the
Tai Hang area, when Mid-autumn Festival
sees a 67m-long dragon snake out of Lin Fa
temple for a 230-year-old tradition that has
survived the ever-changing world around it.
www.discoverhongkong.com
MACAO
Macao’s annual festivals offer a fascinating
glimpse into the two cultures that make up
the region’s Portuguese and Chinese roots.
Every year, a huge Catholic procession
winds the cobbles up from The Historic
Centre of Macao to the hilltop Penha
Chapel, marking the Feast Day of Our
Lady Fátima – an event more akin to those
found in the Mediterranean than Asia. Then
there’s the sight of The Feast of the Drunken
Dragon, as tottering fishermen spray beer
from their mouths while parading from
Kuan Tai temple. Just as you turn one corner
to spy old European architecture and
another reveals Chinese markets, Macao’s
cultural festivals offer a thrilling close-up of
its dual heritage. www.visitmacao.co.uk

YOU CAN ALSO WIN…
NIKON CAMERA
All our Runner-Up photographers will win a Nikon
camera and lens kit. They can gather new
perspectives with the NIKON D7500 and AF-S DX
Nikkor 18-140mm VR lens, which combine to
produce crisp images and 4K UHD video. The
camera’s versatility, accompanied by a 7.8x zoom
lens, means it lends itself to a variety of shooting
situations, from sweeping landscapes to distant
icons, making it the ideal companion for capturing
your next travel adventure. It’s backed up by an
in-camera Picture Control system, so you can add
your own creative style to your images as well.
Create lasting, immersive images of your travels
– exactly as you experience them.
www.nikon.co.uk
SEND US YOUR PHOTOS To enter, or for the full terms & conditions, visit www.travelphotooftheyear.co.uk.
The closing date for sending in entries is 15 November 2018. Best of luck!
122 | Wanderlust September 2018
PERMAJET
The Winner of the Public Vote (to be held at
Destinations Show 2019 at Olympia, London) will
receive a £100 voucher to spend with PermaJet ,
while the Highly Commended photographers will
each receive five high-quality prints of their image.
PermaJet believe that a photo isn’t finished until it’s
brought to life through the art of print. With a wide
selection of award-winning inkjet papers to choose
from, creating your own high-quality prints from
home has never been easier. Their ranges extend
from Digital Photo, with the reputable gloss and
matt, right through to Baryta, Fine Art or Canvas,
which include both smooth and textured papers
suitable for artistic and museum quality prints.
www.permajet.com
Make a splash
in Hong Kong
The region’s annual
Dragon Boat Festival
sees paddlers take to
their vessels in sight of
Hong Kong’s waterfront
SANDISK
Western Digital, including the SanDisk® brand, is a
leading supplier of flash memory products, trusted
by consumers all around the globe. If you’re on
the trip of a lifetime, you need to be confident that
your kit won’t let you down. That’s why they have
partnered with the Wanderlust Photo of the Year
competition to offer the Winners, plus up to four
Runners Up, four Highly Commended entries
and the Winner of the Public Vote (to be held
at Destinations Show 2019), a range of mobile
storage products, including the SanDisk® iXpand™
flash drive for iPhone and iPad. This can quickly
free up space as well as automatically back up
your camera roll, and it is compatible with most
cases. It’s lightweight, portable and will make sure
that you can capture it all, from sunrise to sunset.
You can even store and watch videos straight from
the drive, making it a terrific travel companion.
www.sandisk.co.uk
HKTB (top)
 Promotional feature

DISCOVER

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Nature lover and television star Nick Baker explores Adelaide and
South Australia, encountering its weird and wonderful wildlife

Wanderlust September 2018 | 123

 ADELAIDE
Your grand entrance
This vibrant, foodie, friendly, outdoorsy,
easy-to-reach city is the perfect place
to start your Australian adventure…

V
 isitors will quickly discover
why it’s incredibly easy to
fall for Adelaide. South
Australia’s vibrant capital is
the kind of city that travellers
Down Under might design
themselves if given free
rein: there’s a world-class
food scene, a magnificent choice of city
beaches and superb wildlife and wineries
on your doorstep. And a culture-savvy,
million-plus population means there’s 
a buzz about the place year-round.
That’s not all. The city is straightforward
to reach from the UK, has a show-stopping
mountain range a few hours’ drive away
and hosts some of the biggest festivals in
the southern hemisphere. It’s also blessed
with the kind of climate that makes having
sunglasses essential. In short, even if it’s
your first time in Australia, you needn’t look
any further for your gateway city.
An awesome arrival
For TV presenter and naturalist Nick Baker
– a man who knows a thing or two about
encountering special destinations – Adelaide
ticks all the right boxes. “It’s a wonderful,
wonderful place,” he says. “It’s got a really
eclectic feel to it and the street atmosphere is
brilliant. But the first thing you need to know
is how convenient the airport is.”
He’s right. It’s simple not just to reach
Adelaide – there are regular one-stop
services from the UK with award-winning
airlines such as Qatar Airways – but to also
NICK’S TIP
get into the city once you’re on the ground.
Adelaide Airport is a breeze to get through
and sits just 20 minutes from the centre.
Besides, the city’s warm, relaxed vibe could
have been custom-made for soothing any
lingering jetlag. You’ll find friendly locals
waiting to welcome you to their backyard –
and it’s some backyard. Sophisticated and
multicultural, Adelaide blends parkland,
beaches and Victorian-era architecture with
some hugely enjoyable one-off attractions.
Australia’s food capital
One of the best places to begin is in the foodie
haven of Adelaide Central Market, which has
been selling first-rate Australian produce since
1869. Expect everything from artisan cheeses
and organic meats to fresh sourdough loaves
and buttery fudge. The city’s restaurant scene
is similarly strong. Home to Orana –
described by many as the best restaurant in
Australia right now – as well as countless other
establishments doing incredible things with
quality local ingredients, Adelaide has been
dubbed the ‘new foodie capital of Oz’.
Adelaide also stands as the Vineyard City
of Australia and one of the wine capitals of
the world. There are more than 200 cellar
doors within an hour of the centre,
including, in the heart of the city, Penfolds
Magill Estate, where grapes have been made In the city itself you can wander amid
into the multi-award-winning Penfolds the leafy boughs, blooms and birdlife of
Grange wines since 1844. Tastings and Adelaide Botanic Garden. Or, just ten
tours are available daily. kilometres north of the centre, you can
explore the rugged expanse of the Morialta
Adventure on the doorstep Conservation Park, with its steep gullies,
You don’t need to go far from the city to gnarled ridges and tumbling waterfalls.
sample the great Australian outdoors. Adelaide Keep your eyes peeled for everything from
beaches such as Brighton, Semaphore and grazing marsupials to tawny frogmouths.
Previous page: Nick Baker; This page: SATC; Ben Goode; Nick Baker

“Morialta Conservation Park
is a really beautiful wild
park. As an introduction to
what South Australia holds,
and for your cockatoo and
kangaroo fix, it’s all there,
right on Adelaide’s doorstep.”
Henley all combine soft sands and handsome
settings with watersports and seafood
restaurants. Ever-popular Glenelg is only
a tram-ride from the centre; backed by high
trees and hip boutique stores, it’s where
Adelaide lets its hair down – and if your luck’s
in, you might even spot dolphins offshore.
But then, in South Australia, wildlife
and nature experiences come thick and fast.
When people talk about Adelaide’s ‘WOW
factor’, they’re referring to more than just
its good looks, its place-to-be feel and its
cosmopolitan buzz. It’s also the gateway to
the WOW (that’s Wine, Outback, Wildlife)
experiences of South Australia. Because
frankly, when you start in Adelaide – one
of the best nature cities in the world – the
good stuff just keeps coming.

124 | Wanderlust September 2018

 Promotional feature

Wonder walls
Laid-back Adelaide’s
hip eateries make it
a stylish escape;

Discover the real

(bottom) it’s not
known as the ‘Vineyard
City’ for nothing

South Australia
Get off the beaten track with
Trailfinders’ expert itineraries
With South Australia offering such an array
of activities, landscapes and wildlife, there
are possibilities around every corner.
Visit Australia with Trailfinders and look
forward to a journey that will surprise,
delight and leave you wanting more.
Since 1970, more than 2 million people
have used Trailfinders to arrange their
travel plans Down Under, so no-one knows
Australia like they do. Their consultants
have travelled extensively in the region,
and they look forward to helping you
create an Australian holiday like no other.
As the UK’s No.1 tour operator to
Australia, you can look forward to multi
award-winning service and exceptional
value, so give them a call today and
experience the Trailfinders difference and
a perfectly planned holiday.

̏You don’t need to go far from the
city of Adelaide to sample the
great Australian outdoors˝
Explore Adelaide
with Trailfinders
A two-week trip like no other to
South Australia’s cool capital
I
n as little as two weeks you can enjoy
an incredible holiday in Oz. Many of
Trailfinders’ itineraries begin in Adelaide,
including three nights in the vineyard city
itself as well as two nights in the Adelaide
Hills, enjoying the Morialta Conservation
Park and its wonderful wineries. After that,
you’ll spend four nights on Kangaroo Island
discovering the country’s iconic wildlife and
four nights in Sydney, costing from £2,449
per person (based on two sharing).
The holiday includes 13 nights’
accommodation, six days’ Avis car hire with
a free upgrade, flights with Qatar Airways
from London to Adelaide and Sydney to
London and domestic flights within Australia.
Trailfinders can tailormake wildlife and
wine touring options to ensure you enjoy the
best of South Australia with passionate local
experts. For more info, contact Trailfinders
on 020 7368 1364 or visit www.trailfinders.com

Wanderlust September 2018 | 125

KANGAROO ISLAND
Your escape to Eden
This glorious isle, only a short hop from Adelaide,
S
is possibly the best wildlife destination in Australia
 omewhere special? The clue
is in the name. Sitting pretty
just off the coast of the South
Australian mainland,
Kangaroo Island is one of the
greatest wildlife destinations
in the country. It takes only
30 minutes to reach by air
from Adelaide – or, for road-trippers, a mere
45 minutes by ferry from Cape Jervis – but in
ecological terms it’s a land of its own.
Kangaroos are just the start. To say it’s
a fine place to observe native fauna in its
natural habitat is an understatement. “It
was a different world,” says Nick Baker,
reflecting on his trip earlier this year.
“Being an island, it’s got species that on
the mainland are more dispersed or
harder to see. It was brilliant.”
Wildlife wonderland
As a passionate wildlife-watcher, Nick was
in his element here. The broad 4,405 sq km
isle plays home to everything from
wallabies, sea lions and brush-tailed
possums to rare birds, fur seals and little
penguins. “It’s also one of the best places in
Australia to see koala, bar none,” he adds,
“so make sure you keep your eyes open.”
The animals that lent the place its name
have evolved slightly differently to their
mainland counterparts (“It’s a subspecies,”
enthuses Nick, “it’s darker, and doesn’t
need to hop so fast”). There’s a rather grisly
story behind the island’s name, however. It
received its title after the British explorer
Matthew Flinders ‘discovered’ it in 1802
and filled the bellies of his hungry men
with kangaroo meat. You’ll be pleased to
hear the island’s menagerie is treated
NICK’S TIP
“Don’t just go for a day.
Kangaroo Island is a
destination in its
own right. You’ve got
fantastic walking,
watersports, marine
life, diving, wineries –
there’s so much going on.”
126 | Wanderlust September 2018
Live the wild life
Kangaroo Island is one
of the best places to
see Australia’s native
wildlife; (bottom) the
stark beauty of the
Remarkable Rocks
with considerably more love and respect
these days, although the many stories tied
in to the explorer era add extra cultural
interest to a trip here.
A special spot
The island has long been a magnet for
wildlife experts, and you’ll find a wealth
of hugely knowledgeable guides. Arranging
to spend a day or two in their company is
highly recommended. Be sure, too, to
explore the island’s beaches with a well-
laden picnic basket. The local honey,
oysters, crayfish and delicious lobster are
particularly renowned.
If you have the time, the Kangaroo Island
Wilderness Trail – a 61km five-day trek – is
a phenomenal option. If you’re cherry-
picking the best bits, don’t skip on the
marine life: the colony of sea lions at Seal
Bay, the seals at Admiral’s Arch and
̏Kangaroos are just the start. To say
the island is a fine place to observe
native fauna is an understatement˝
Remarkable Rocks, and the island’s
dolphins. “I see bottlenose dolphins
regularly but I was blown away,” explains
Nick. “We chugged along the coast for half
an hour looking at wedge-tailed eagles, then
rounded a headland and there was a huge
pod or 40 or 50 of them, bobbing around in
shallow clear water. It was the best dolphin
swim I’ve done anywhere in the world, and
the ethics of the operator were brilliant.”
If you’re looking for a corner of Australia
that’s going to serve up unforgettable
outdoor encounters, there’s nowhere better.
Ben Goode; Jetabout Holidays; Nick Baker
“I had a particularly magical evening as the
sun was setting, watching the galahs coming
down to feed and kangaroos bouncing all
around us,” recalls Nick. “It was beautiful –
really, really special.”
 Promotional feature

Encounter
Kangaroo Island
with Trailfinders
Go wild in Australia and meet
some spectacular critters

T
railfinders’ experts have arranged
Australia itineraries for over 2 million
travellers, with wildlife often top of
the bill. Try a two week trip that includes
three nights in Adelaide, four nights on the
wildlife-packed Kangaroo Island, one night in
the Barossa Valley wine region, and concluding
with five nights on the Great Barrier Reef,
costing from £2,859 pp (based on two sharing).
The holiday includes 13 nights’
accommodation, five days’ Avis car hire with a
free upgrade, flights with Qatar Airways from
London to Adelaide and Brisbane back to
London, and domestic flights within Australia.
For more info, contact Trailfinders on
020 7368 1364 or visit www.trailfinders.com

FOUR SUPERSTAYS
Explore the best of Kangaroo Island from the perfect base…

1 2 3 4
Southern Wandering Souls Ecopia Retreat Sea Dragon Lodge
Ocean Lodge Glamping, Kangaroo Opened in March This family-run lodge
Billed as ‘Australia’s first Island-style – unique 2018, this comfortable, offers an eco-friendly
super-lodge’, expect five- bell tents bring a touch eco-friendly retreat seafront escape with its
star thrills, from the spa of ease and high-end sits right in the heart own secluded beach and
and the restaurant to the elegance to your of Kangaroo Island’s private decks overlooking
secluded clifftop setting. outdoor experience. breathtaking wilderness. the lapping waves.
⊲

Wanderlust September 2018 | 127

FLINDERS RANGES
Your backyard Outback
These easy-to-reach mountains are rich in wildlife,
wild trails, ancient fossils and indigenous culture
N
 ot all mountains are created
equal, and the Flinders
Ranges – the largest belt of
mountains in the state – are
as grand as they come.
“They’re gorgeous,” says
Nick Baker, who explored
them for himself earlier this
year. “The Flinders Ranges are a proper
Outback experience – exactly how you
imagine the Outback is going to be.”
Super-sized and craggy, the Ranges’
saw-toothed topography and red plateaus
are the epitome of Australian wilderness.
Given this, you’d expect them to be remote
– but they’re not. Just five hours of driving,
through the wineries of the Clare Valley,
brings you from Adelaide to the mountains.
A range of life
For those who think of Australia as a young
country, the Flinders Ranges are a vivid
reminder of its agelessness. The first human
habitation in the area was around 49,000
years ago, while the landscape itself dates
back no less than 600 million years. “One of
the gorges here is where the oldest fossils on
Earth that represent multi-cellular animals
can be found,” says Nick. “But if geological
stuff like that isn’t your thing, it’s also home
to an animal that’s alive and well today.”
He’s talking about the yellow-footed rock
wallabies, once on the verge of extinction but
slowly recovering, and found amid the
Ranges’ high slopes. But many more species
also thrive here, including emus, kangaroos,
eagles, unusual lizards such as the Lake Eyre
dragon and rare birds such as the grey-
fronted honeyeater.
NICK’S TIP
“In the Flinders Ranges,
the indigenous heritage is
right there. Try and give
yourself time to get a really
meaningful understanding
of the relationship
between humans and
the living landscape.”
128 | Wanderlust September 2018
At home on
the ranges
(clockwise from this)
Soaking up the
scenery at Rawnsley
Park Station; hiking
the Arkaba Walk;
emus in the Outback
The Ranges’ indigenous heritage is another
defining characteristic, with descendants of
the Adnyamathanha people still living in the
area. It gives an added layer of significance to
dramatic natural formations such as the vast
natural amphitheatre of Wilpena Pound – or
‘place of bent fingers’ in the local Aboriginal
dialect, a reference to its resemblance to
a pair of cupped hands. It’s one of many
reminders of a truly ancient connection.
Special stays
The Flinders Ranges have some remarkable
accommodation options. The Prairie Hotel
is a true-blue Aussie Outback property, with
character in spades and a license dating back
to 1876. Nick stayed at two other incredible
places, both with their own extraordinary
stories. Rawnsley Park Station overlooks
Wilpena Pound and has been welcoming
̏For those who think of Australia as
a young country, the Flinders Ranges
are a reminder of its agelessness˝
visitors to its beautiful, sheep-roamed plains
for 50 years, while the Arkaba Conservancy is
a former sheep ranch turned luxury
wilderness lodge focused on wildlife
conservation. “Arkaba’s idea of rewilding was
literally to take the sheep off the land and see
what happened,” says Nick. “What happened
was that everything has bounced back, quite
literally. The vegetation has sprung up, and
when that happens, in come the animals.”
We’ll leave the final word to Nick, who
Great Southern Rail; Mark Phelps; SATC; Nick Baker
wasn’t just wowed by the Flinders Ranges,
but by South Australia as a whole. “If you’re
an adventurer and you want somewhere a bit
different, somewhere that feels a bit more
real, it’s all there. You can have all your
creature comforts and get a fix of the wilds
at the same time. It’s the perfect place to go.”
 Promotional feature

Experience the
Flinders Ranges
with Trailfinders
Discover the beauty of South
Australia’s stunning Outback

G
etting under the skin of a place like the
Flinders Ranges needs a bit of context
– you want to see other parts of South
Australia to appreciate just how different it is.
A two-week escape with Trailfinders includes
three nights in Adelaide, one night in the Clare
Valley, two nights at Rawnsley Park Station,
one night at the Prairie Hotel and five nights
in Sydney, costing from £1,589 per person
(based on two sharing).
The package includes 12 nights’
accommodation, five days car hire for the
Ocean to Outback road trip, flights with Qatar
Airways from London to Adelaide and Sydney
back to London, and domestic flights within
Australia. For more info contact Trailfinders
on 020 7368 1364 or visit www.trailfinders.com
Those wanting to follow in Nick Baker’s
footsteps and enjoy the Arkaba Walk
(arkabawalk.com) in the Flinders Ranges
can do this amazing journey between April
and September. This four-day private hike
can be booked through Trailfinders. Enquire
for details on 020 7368 1364.

For more information and to view Nick Bakers’ videos from South Australia, visit wanderlust.co.uk/southaustralia
A REALLY WILD EVENING IN CONVERSATION WITH… THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS, AN EVENING WITH MONTY HALLS

Miranda
Sue Flood Lucy Cooke Krestovnikoff

ROYAL HALL, SATURDAY 29 SEPTEMBER 2018. ROYAL HALL, FRIDAY 28 SEPTEMBER 2018.
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POCKET GUIDES
T H E B I T S O F T H E G U I D E B O O K Y O U R E A L LY N E E D

137 WINDHOEK

139 PALERMO 141 KRAKOW

Wanderlust September 2018 | 135

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Windhoek, Namibia
Newcomers to the African continent will find a perfect entry point in Windhoek,
where rich culture and natural beauty are always at hand, says Sarah Gilbert
Before you arrive
Windhoek is Namibia’s capital and
international gateway, and is nestled deep in
a picturesque valley in the centre of the country,
flanked by the Khomas Hochland Plateau to
the west and the Auas Mountains to the east.
For those who have yet to visit the country,
a Namibian holiday may bring to mind worrying
visions of sweltering heat. But at 1,700m above
sea level, Windhoek is spared the oppressive
weather found in many other parts of the
country, with temperatures rarely going over
30 degrees (ºC) in summer, while in winter
they dip to around six degrees, on average.
Settled by the Germans in the 1890s, it has
an interesting mix of European and African
Previous and this page Dreamstime
architecture, but it’s keen to shake off its
provincial image and colonial past, and
modern skyscrapers are springing up in
Shutterstock
contrast to its incongruous German castles.
✃
Pocket Guides First 24 Hours
The city has spread over the years, but is still
small for a capital, and it’s relatively safe and
quiet – especially for an African city – with clean
streets free of chaotic traffic and honking horns.
Those familiar with some of the more boisterous
areas of the continent will understand why
Namibia is often dubbed ‘Africa for beginners’.
Windhoek may be short on major sights, but
with comfortable guesthouses and good dining
options, it makes a pleasant place to spend time
at the start of a trip, stock up on supplies before
driving on, or relax before your flight home.
At the airport
Hosea Kutako International Airport is
located 45km and a 45-minute drive west of the
city. There are no direct flights from the UK.
South African Airways (flysaa.com) and British
Airways (ba.com) have daily direct flights from
London Heathrow to Johannesburg for onward
It’s a free country
A statue of anti-
apartheid revolutionary
Sam Nujoma gazes
over Windhoek
flights to Windhoek with South African Airways
or Air Namibia (airnamibia.com). Total flight
time is approximately 13 hours, depending on
connection times, and return fares start from
around £700. In Arrivals there are currency
exchanges and ATMs, car hire firms and
safari company offices.
Getting into town
Arrange a transfer through your hotel or
operator, or use a registered transfer shuttle
such as City Cab (windhoekairportshuttle.com),
rather than take a taxi. Transfers cost from
around N$200 to N$300 per person.
Other ways to arrive
If you are coming from elsewhere in Africa
and looking to save money, Intercape Mainliner
(intercape.co.za) operates budget-friendly bus
routes from South Africa and Botswana. ⊲
Wanderlust September 2018 | 137
 Pocket Guides First 24 Hours

⊳
HERE’S THE PLAN...
■ Essential Info
Population: Around 322,000. Health issues: Recommended
Languages: English is the official immunisations: diphtheria, hepatitis A,
language, but Oshiwambo, Afrikaans, tetanus and typhoid. There’s a risk of
German and many tribal languages malaria in north and east Namibia,
are also spoken. especially from November to June, so
Timezone: GMT+1 make sure to consult your doctor for
International dialling code: +264 the recommended prophylaxis and
Visas: Not required by UK nationals for cover up to avoid bites. It’s also best
stays of up to 90 days. to stick to bottled water.
Currency: Namibian dollar (N$), Recommended guidebooks: Bradt’s
currently around N$18 to the UK£. Namibia (2015) guide is a handy option.
Highest viewpoint: Take the Web resources: The official website ■ F i r s t D a y ’ s To u r
Independence Museum’s glass-walled of the Namibia Tourism Board is Start at a landmark: the Christuskirche enables women to support themselves
exterior lift for panoramic views. namibiatourism.com.na. church built in 1907. Nearby, the by teaching them handicrafts. You’ll also
Climate: Namibia is a year-round Independence Memorial Museum visit a market in the Single Quarters, part
35 100
˚C MM destination. Winter is the dry season, tells the story of Namibia’s struggle for of the growing Katutura Township, to
running from May to October, with the independence, finally achieved in 1990. learn about – and try – the staple foods.
28 80 best game viewing in Etosha National If you’re short of time, a three-hour The Namibia Craft Centre
Park from June to October. Days are City and Township tour with Chameleon (namibiacraftcentre.com) is filled with
21 60 warm but nights can be cold, especially Safaris (chameleonsafaris.com; N$300/ small stalls selling Namibian-made
in the desert. The summertime runs £17) will gives a good overview of the ostrich egg jewellery, baskets and more.
14 40 from October to April, with November country’s fascinating history. If you’re still feeling energetic, Equitrails
to February the hottest months. After exploring the city centre, (equitrails.org) offers horse riding for all
November marks the start of the including the ‘Ink Palace’ levels in the scenic Eros Mountains, just
7 20
rainy season, with showers (pictured) and Parliament 15km north of the city. And for dinner, try
normally arriving in the
0
JFMAMJJASOND
0

■ Rainfall (average) Temperature (average high)

afternoon. The wettest
period is from January
to March.
top tip Gardens, drive to the
Penduka Women’s
Centre, a non-profit
Joe’s Beerhouse (joesbeerhouse.com),
one of Windhoek’s top restaurants and
beer gardens, with local meat and game
All Windhoek’s museums are organisation that as well as vegetarian options.
free; the Independence
Memorial Museum and the
National Museum of Namibia
give a sense of the country’s
complex history.

■ Where to Stay ■ Stay or Go?

Top-end: The Olive Exclusive (22
Promenaden Road; theolive-namibia.com)
is an intimate boutique hotel with
expansive suites decorated in neutral
tones, African materials and local art.
There’s a good-sized pool – some suites
also have their own plunge pool – and
the Olive Restaurant is one of the best in
the city. Doubles from N$5,610 (£324).
Mid-range: The 11 individually
decorated rooms at the Olive Grove
Guesthouse (pictured; 20 Promenaden
Road; olivegrove-namibia.com) are
stylish and comfortable, and there’s
a small pool and a rooftop Jacuzzi.
Doubles from N$1,730 (£100).
Budget: The Rivendell Guesthouse (40
Beethoven Street; rivendell-namibia.com)
is in a quiet city suburb, with a choice
of en suite, shared bathroom and
self-catering rooms, as well as kitchen
facilities and breakfast. There’s a small
pool and they can organise car rental
and tours. Doubles from N$930 (£54).
Go. Windhoek makes the perfect
beginning and end to a journey, but
there’s so much more to explore.
Etosha (pictured) is Namibia’s largest
national park. Its watering holes are
a draw for large herds of plains game and
predators, especially in the dry season.
The sculpted sand dunes of Sossusvlei
and the blackened remains of long-dead
trees at Deadvlei in the Namib-Naukluft
National Park are among the county’s
most iconic sights.
The Kunene region in the north-west
is one of Africa’s last great wildernesses,
home to epic scenery, the semi-nomadic
Himba people and remarkable wildlife.
It’s bordered on the west by the wild
Skeleton Coast National Park, where
fur seals lie amid rusting shipwrecks.
For a taste of Botswana’s Okavango
Delta without the price tag, the Caprivi
Strip in the north-east is bordered by the
Okavango and Zambezi Rivers, with
a beautiful landscape and wildlife.
Dreamstime
✃

138 | Wanderlust September 2018


Palermo, Italy
Sicily is a scenic joy, from its volcanoes to this year’s Italian Capital of Culture,
Palermo, whose food and history offer a fine initiation, says Graeme Green
P
lay a game of word association and
it’s likely that the word ‘Sicily’ will be
met with one response: ‘the Mafia’.
It’s a great cause of frustration for
Sicilians that, with so much to offer
on this beautiful and diverse island – fine food
and wine, a flower-filled countryside, beaches,
Mount Etna and pretty coastal villages – they’re
still widely known as the home of a crime
syndicate featured in films and TV series such
as The Godfather and The Sopranos.
Italy’s largest island – and, in fact, the largest
island in the Mediterranean Sea – has been
conquered across the ages by many of its
neighbours, including Greek, Roman, Arab,
Norman and Spanish forces. All of them have left
their marks, with castles, palaces and temple
ruins on hilltops and coastal outlooks, and a mix
of international cuisines, from couscous (often
Shutterstock
served with fruit) to cannoli, the ricotta-filled
✃
Pocket Guides Short Break
biscuit dessert loved by Tony Soprano, which was
introduced to the island by the Arabs but later
adapted by nuns who arrived with the Spanish.
That mix of food, art and architecture is
nowhere more evident than in the island’s
capital, Palermo. The highly walkable Old Town
is rich with cultural treasures, many of which
were given UNESCO World Heritage status
in 2016. At the Zisa, in western Palermo, for
example, you’ll find Moorish architecture
and calligraphy alongside Norman, Byzantine
and Latin influences, while Martorana
Church’s ceiling has plenty of Byzantine
mosaics and Islamic inscriptions.
The city has been named Italian Capital of
Culture 2018, and will also host the 12th Manifesta
(manifesta.org; until 4 Nov), the European
Biennial of Contemporary Art, so there are lots of
events planned through the year – see turismo.
comune.palermo.it for more information.
Culture club
Food, palaces, history
and (yes) more food
are all on offer in Italy’s
Capital of Culture
But there is plenty to see, do and eat in any
given year in this culture-filled city, which locals
say has been cleaned up immensely. Here, you
can stroll around flea markets or be overwhelmed
by the food stalls of Capo, Ballarò and Vucciria,
loading up on arancini (fried balls of rice filled
with meat or cheese; see p14 for a recipe), cannoli
and cassata Siciliana, a tasty ricotta-filled cake.
It’s easy to soak up the local culture, with opera
and classical music events at Teatro Massimo
(teatromassimo.it/eng), the grand opera house
seen in The Godfather III, and centuries of
paintings and sculptures at the Galleria d’Arte
Moderna (gampalermo.it/en). But perhaps your
most memorable experience will be watching
puppets chopping each other’s heads off at one
of the many Opera dei Pupi (puppet theatre)
shows, a traditional entertainment listed by
UNESCO as part of the Oral and Intangible
Heritage of Humanity. That’s the way to do it. ⊲
Wanderlust September 2018 | 139
 Pocket Guides Short Break

⊳
HERE’S THE PLAN...
■ Essential Info
When to go: Year-round. Summer
months, especially July and August,
can be both busy and hot. May,
June and September still have
warm weather, and so are good
times to go.
Getting there: easyJet (easyjet.
com) flies from London Gatwick,
London Luton and Liverpool to
Palermo, starting from £24.68 per
person (one-way, not including
baggage). British Airways (0844
493 0787, ba.com) have single
fares from £44 and fly between
March and October.
Getting around: The Old Town is
walkable and easy to find your way
around. It’s also possible to rent
bikes – a good way to get around
quickly and to reach sites a bit
further out. There are also buses,
trains and taxis (but check the fare
first, where possible).
Where to stay: Butera28 (+39 333
puppet museum; from €75pn (£70).
B&B del Massimo (bbdelmassimo.it)
has good-sized rooms and is right
in the thick of the action, down
a narrow alley from Teatro Massimo;
doubles from €50pn (£44).
Where to eat: L’Ottava Nota
Restaurant (ristoranteottavanota.it)
isn’t cheap but it does excellent
Sicilian dishes, as does the more
affordable and traditional La
Cambusa (lacambusa.it/en). For
pizza, head to Arte E Tradizione
(arteetradizione-palermo.it).
Palermo’s markets and the street
food at Vucciria are also well
worth exploring.
Further info: visitpalermo.it and
turismo.comune.palermo.it.
Day 1: A FEAST OF FOOD AND CULTURE
Get your comfy walking shoes on Fontana Pretoria and marvel at its
and start at Mercato il Capo market, sculptures, then head over to La
beating the tour groups who pass Martorana (€2/£1.75) on Piazza
through later in the day. If you’ve got Bellini, with its golden ceiling.
a mid-morning appetite, try a freshly A couple of streets away, visit the
fried arancini, then go to Mercato Modern Art Gallery (GAM; €7/£6) on
delle Pulci, the flea market lining Via Sant’Anna for diverse artworks,
the road near the cathedral, with including lifelike marble sculptures
curiosities filling the shops. by 17th century artist Lio Gangeri.
Next, head to the Palazzo dei Scrub up at your hotel before
Normanni (pictured; €12/£10.50), heading to Teatro Massimo
the former seat of Sicily’s kings. (teatromassimo.it; prices vary) for
Once you’re in the Palatine a night at the opera. If peckish, grab
Chapel, look up; a slice of pizza on the sidestreets

top tip
316 5432, butera28.it) has comfy and ceilings don’t come surrounding this imposing building.
characterful self-catering apartments much grander. Many of the operas show subtitles
that are close to the marina and Some tickets for churches and Stroll down to on a screen above the stage.
historic buildings give you
a discount at other associated
sites. Check the fine print of
any tickets you buy to see
what else they offer.

Day 2: DON’T LOSE YOUR HEAD
Begin at the Antonio Pasqualino
International Puppet Museum
(pictured; €5/ £4.50), dedicated
to the art of Opera dei Pupi and
featuring puppets and masks from
around the world. Performances
(€10/£8.80) are also held here
between Monday and Saturday.
Stop at Antica Gelatería Ilardo
by the marina for gelato, then walk
to the pleasantly quiet greenery
of Villa Giulia (City Park) and the
adjacent Botanical Gardens. It’s
Next, head to Palermo Cathedral.
The interior is grand, but be sure to
do the roof walk (€5/£4.50) for views
out across old and new Palermo.
Across from the cathedral, catch
a puppet show at Teatro Pupi di
Vincenzo Argento e figli (€12/
£10.50). Shows are in Italian, but
the battles of the Crusades are
easy to follow and the decapitation-
heavy fight scenes are hilarious.
In the evening, head to Piazza
Rivoluzione’s bars for live bands
Day 3: GETTING AROUND THE ISLAND
There are plenty of options for your
final day. There’s a Sunday-only flea
market running around Piazza
Marina, where you can pick up
everything from antique cameras to
ornate lamps, to musical instruments.
You could follow a bit of bartering
with a visit out to the Zisa, a castle
with Arabian and Byzantine
influences in western Palermo, then
head on to the Cattedrale di
Monreale, a Norman cathedral
famous for its golden mosaics,
(pictured), one hour by train
(trenitalia.com), for one of Sicily’s best
beaches and the pretty town used by
director Giuseppe Tornatore for much
of the classic movie Cinema Paradiso.
Another option would be a day trip
out to the Greek ruins of Segesta
(€5/£4.50 entry, or as part of a day
tour). Alternatively, Erice, the hilltop
medieval town, is also achievable in
a day, either by renting a car or
joining a coach tour, to explore
pastry bakeries, ceramic shops,
Previous and this page Dreamstime

a 15-minute walk to Ballarò, one
of the city’s biggest markets. Fuel
up with a panelle (fried chickpea
fritter) sandwich first.
and a happy hour-style aperitivo
(a free buffet). Nearby Vucciria
market is lively at night, while Piazza
Sant’Anna has plenty of bars.
further out of the city.
Palermo is well placed for a day
trip, though. You could head an
hour east along the coast to Cefalù
castles and quiet backstreets.
Whichever you choose, it’s all
guaranteed to make you want to
return and see more of this island.
✃

140 | Wanderlust September 2018


Wawel Castle, Kraków
FIRST 24 HOURS
Once terrorised by a virgin-eating dragon, Kraków’s royal icon now stands
proudly atop the beast’s former lair, celebrating 40 years of UNESCO status
Get orientated
Kraków has a few origin stories, but none
odder than this: they say it was once menaced by
a dragon with a taste for livestock and virgins, until
the Polish settlement was saved by a shoemaker
who stuffed a hapless sheep with sulphur and left
it for the monster to eat. The creature gulped the
Vistula River dry to quench the burning, but it was
vanquished. The man then married King Krakus’
daughter before founding Kraków proper.
The Wawel Castle complex, which incorporates
the great Gothic cathedral, celebrates 40 years of
UNESCO-listed status in 2018. It also holds the bones
of many of Poland’s former monarchs – but being on
Wawel Hill, it also rests on the dragon’s former lair.
The creatures remains are even said to hang at the
cathedral, although more conventional wisdom
suggests these are the bones of a menagerie of
Shutterstock
ancient creatures, including a woolly mammoth.
✃
Getting there & around
Many airlines fly direct from the UK to
Kraków’s John Paul II International Airport,
taking from around 2.5 hours; return fares from
£40. Public buses and trains link the airport to
the city centre; single-trip fares cost PLN4 (80p;
buses) and PLN9 (£1.80; trains). The city centre is
walkable but it has a good network of buses and
trams, too. An hour pass is PLN5 (£1), a day pass
PLN15 (£3) and a three-day ticket PLN36 (£7.30).
The visit
Wawel Castle is an architectural document
of the country’s finest moments and most solemn
occasions, as well as a spectacular hill-perched
icon. Just by strolling its sprawling grounds (free
to enter) you can feel its history, but for a deeper
understanding of the role this fine castle had to
play in both the city and country’s past, explore
Pocket Guides Travel Icon
Here be dragons?
Once supposedly
menaced by mythical
beasts, Kraków is now
an idyllic retreat
one or two of its buildings. There are more to visit
than can be squeezed into a day, but you don’t
need to have seen them all to say you’ve ‘done’
the castle. The State Rooms (from PLN20; £4.10)
form the largest exhibition, a series of chambers
restored to their original baroque magnificence,
while the Royal Private Apartments (from PLN25;
£5.15) reveal how Polish nobility once lived.
Wawel Cathedral is smothered in a variety of
ornamentation. Entry is free, but it’s worth paying
PLN12 (£2.45) to climb Sigismund Tower and see
the Royal Tombs and an extra museum.
You can also visit the cave that once served
as the dragon’s den (Apr–Oct only, PLN3; 60p).
However, any fire-breathing fears have long
been extinguished; it’s now a cheesy series of
chambers. You emerge beside a bronze statue of
the dragon on the banks of the Vistula – now full
and flowing again. Much like Kraków itself. ⊲
Wanderlust September 2018 | 141
 Pocket Guides Travel Icon

 SHRINE AND NATIONAL SYMBOL ♦ Sigismund Tower

The Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus The tower was built in
and Wenceslaus was, with a few exceptions, the the 14th century as
coronation church and burial place of Poland’s part of the city’s
kings. Since national heroes and famous Polish fortifications. Poland’s ♦ Shrine of
artists are also buried here, the cathedral is most famous bell St Stanislaus
regarded as a shrine and national symbol. hangs here: the In the centre of the
13-tonne Sigismund church stands the
Bell, which only rings silver sarcophagus
on public holidays. of the Krakow bishop
and patron saint of
Poland, St Stanislaus
of Szczepanów
(around 1030–1079
AD). The cathedral is
dedicated to him.

♦ Chapel of the
Holy Cross
The last resting place of
Casimir IV Jagiellon and his
wife, Elisabeth von Habsburg
(Elżbieta Rakuszanka), also
called ‘Mother of Queens’.
Veit Stoss sculpted the tomb ♦ Sigismund
of Casimir IV from red marble. Chapel
It is in this chapel
with the golden
roof that the last
Jagiellon kings,
Sigismund I and
his son Sigismund
II Augustus,
found their last
resting place.

♦ Main entrance
On the walls of the entrance area
are the bones of a mammoth,
woolly rhinoceros and a whale, put
there to protect the cathedral —
although some claim they’re dragon
bones. According to legend, as long
as they hang there, the cathedral
will continue to exist. ■ Essentials
Language: Polish
Previous page Dreamstime This page Dreamstime; Marco Polo/Baedeker

♦ Main altar Time: GMT+1 (Oct–Mar GMT+2)

This is where the royal heads of Poland
were crowned. At the foot of the altar
is the bronze tombstone of Cardinal
Fryderyk Jagiellończyk (Frederick
Jagiellon, 1468-1503), a son of King
Casimir IV Jagiellon. As the primate of
Poland and Lithuania, he was the
highest dignitary of the Roman
Catholic church in Poland and thus
had the right to crown Polish kings.
Visas: Not required by UK nationals
Money: Zloty, currently around PLN4.86 to the UK£
Health: Take a valid EHIC card
This feature is adapted from Marco
Polo’s Spiral Guide: Perfect Days in…
Krakow, which contains infographics,
insider tips, tour suggestions and
a large pull-out map.
See marco-polo.com
✃

142 | Wanderlust September 2018

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Parting shot
Living as one
We’re often told that humans
and animals can’t live side-by-
side. But our travels often reveal
the truth to be different – take the
macaques of Lopburi in Thailand or the polar bears
of Churchill, Canada. As the human race spreads,
more inventive ways have surfaced to harmonise
the two. The ‘wildlife bridge’ that allows animals to
cross the highway safely in Canada’s Banff NP is
one example; Kenya’s capital, Nairobi, is another.
144 | Wanderlust September 2018
Paras Chandaria
For the latter, the grasslands and gorges of its
titular national park (pictured) create a wild fringe
to the city. This shot by Paras Chandaria, from new
book Wonders: Spectacular Moments in Nature
Photography (Chronicle Books, £26; out 7 August),
frames the mix of urban and wild. But it’s not all
smooth sailing, with a planned railway line out of
Nairobi through the park currently drawing
the ire of conservationists. Let’s hope they get it
right, for the sake of both animals and people.
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