Har Narmade Har

Tapobhumi Narmada
Part 6

Shailendra Narayan Ghosal Shashtri

Ever since I have crossed over to the southern banks of Narmada after
journeying through Haridham, I have been submerged in deep thoughts about
this river. I have been thinking about the magnitude of greatness that depicts
Maa Narmada and the fact that had it not been for my circumambulation of this
river, I would have never been able to witness the majesty of India and its
international appeal. That is why Swami Vivekananda had said, “ The soil of India
is my Heaven; the sages had proclaimed that India constitutes the courtyard for
the abode of Vishnu (Vaikuntha).” That the soil of my motherland India is Heaven
is something I can proudly proclaim today and every Indian can say that too. In
fact, today I feel that this aspect of Vivekananda’s glorious sermon should be
acknowledged with heart-felt gratitude by one and all. However the verses of our
old sages that describe India to be the closest to the abode of the Supreme power
of this Universe has eluded my understanding till now. I have no hesitation in
admitting this. At the same time, I have comprehended the truth in the words of
the sages of modern times who have stated that India is the shrine of realized
souls. I have realized this as I travelled along the banks of Narmada, through its
jungles infested with dangerous wild animals all the while experiencing her
blessings and the love and care of pure souls in the form of monks of the highest
order. I consider myself extremely blessed and grateful for this experience.
Today I can uninhibitedly declare that I have not been born into a poor world.
Just like one cannot conclude that a city is poor and unhappy by witnessing only
the dark and dirty slums that constitute only a part of it and overlook its
grandeur and luxury, similarly it is wrong to call the spirit of India frail and
dilapidated by overlooking its treasure-trove of liveliness and concluding only
from the daily vagaries of life’s struggles. I have never been tired of witnessing
what I have, along the banks of Narmada, for the last two years. I have been
surprised at every corner. Every dawn, dusk and midnight has greeted me with
the realization of that common thread that binds every entity of this world and
as I sat in the caves of sages, the atmosphere charged with the pure smell of
ritualistic offerings inside dense forests, I felt elation in my heart witnessing the
diversification of that singularity and cried out: Kohyebanyat Kah Praanat Jadesh
Akash Anando Na Syat? Once again I prostrated and offered my reverence to the
India that is draped in the cloth of the universal mother and harbors and
nurtures the truth that percolates our material and spiritual existence.
Suddenly a voice behind me brought me to my senses. My train of thoughts met a
premature end. A boatman carrying a pile of wood on his shoulders looked at me
and said, “Do you plan to spend the whole night out in the cold? All the people
travelling by the boat have left. Where do you plan to stay?”
I replied, “Vimaleshwar temple is nearby. I would spend the night there.”
He started laughing at my words. With a tone of sarcasm he said, “The temple
you have heard about is only so in theory. It is made of Khaprel stone and is
completely in ruins. There is a cave where Shiva dwells and nobody comes with
offerings for Him. Vimaleshwar is a very small village and does not have any
guest house or Dharamshala. The temple too is uninhabitable. Come with me and
I will arrange for you to sleep inside the boat for the night.”
Startled at his words, I looked around and saw that it was quite dark. I hadn’t
even noticed the sun setting. The man once again hurried me saying, “Please get
up Baba, and come with me. The forest is nearby. I cannot leave you here alone.”
I got up, took my gathri, jhola, and kamandul and began to follow him. I thought
to myself that these were the characteristics of the simple people of India,
another aspect of the country’s greatness.
I climbed up some wooden stairs and entered the boat. Inside the boat there
were two covered areas. Under one, people were baking Roti. Three other men
were smoking cannabis and singing:
Tum hi neek lagai Raghurai
So mohi dehu Das such dai
which meant, ‘O King of the Raghu lineage, your wish is the command of your
followers, grant us whatever you desire’.
The simplicity and sense of surrender that characterizes these words of Tulsidas
in the preface of his book Ramcharitmanas has not only made it soulful and
touching but has, for years, transpired into the lives of millions. Such a feeling
emanating from the diaspora of India’s spiritual heritage is unparalleled. These
simple souls forget all the harsh experiences encountered during the course of
the day just by treating themselves with the sweet nectar emanating from taking
the name of the Lord.
Once again they sang with devotion:
Ek vaani Karunanidhan ki
So priya jake gati na anki
which meant, ‘the nature of the compassionate Ram is that He loves most the one
who is helpless and has no way out.’
This heavenly music combined with the ambience consisting of a boat standing
amidst the sea waves in the darkness of dusk had a profound impact on my
senses. I stood still for a couple of minutes absorbing it. The chief urged me to
take a place and I went inside the boat. The men were still singing:
Jar chetan Jag Jeebaje sakal Rammay jani
Bando Sabke Padakamal Sada jori yug paani
which meant, ‘I know that everything living or dead in the world and life itself is
just a manifestation of Lord Ram so I worship the lotus feet of all with folded
hands.’
I felt that this song was extremely timely and successful. It created a stir in my
conscience. Tulidas, you are blessed. Your words has ensured that even the
material world can serve as a source of spirituality which otherwise is perceived
separate and disconnected. Just the words ‘everything is a manifestation of Lord
Ram’ sparkles like glittering diamonds in the golden jewel that India’s rich
spiritual heritage represents. In reality I should indeed worship the lotus feet of
all the sages and yogis whose love and care has made my voyage through the
northern banks so memorable. I remembered their names to the best of my
abilities and offered my reverence.
The voice of the boatmen had subsided. They have probably sat for dinner. I
draped myself in a blanket and lay down. Today was the 30th day of the 7th
month (Kartik) of the year 1361 in the Bengali calendar. Today was also the day
of Vishnupadi Sankranti, a religious festival. A number of households in Bengal
would be celebrating this day with ritualistic worshipping of Lord Kartik. I have
learnt from Mahatma Pushan Giriji that Kartik is just another name of Lord
SanatKumar who is the physical representation of the divine knowledge or
Brahmavidya. I began to think of Mother Narmada and Lord SanatKumar and fell
off to sleep.
I slept till the wee hours of the morning. Upon coming out I saw that there was a
dense fog that had engulfed everything around us. The vegetation on the shores
was not visible. I went back into the boat and sat down. After some time when
the fog cleared, I collected my things, hugged two of the boatmen and took my
leave. I went down the wooden stairs and placed my feet on the southern banks
of Narmada. The early morning sunrays penetrated the leaves and kissed the
stone surfaces. Behind the sea lay the northern banks. I locked the happy
memories of my experiences into the treasure chest of my mind and proceeded
with greater enthusiasm to collect more of the same from the southern banks of
Narmada. Today is the 1st day of the Bengali month Agrahayan (17.12.1954).
With the chant of Reba in my tongue I came up from the sea-shore to the stony
path that went towards the Vimaleshwar temple. I walked humming the song of
offerings for the rising sun and reached the place in ten minutes.
The ruins of the temple greeted my eyes and made me sad. The boat man was
right; probably there was grandeur to this place once but at the moment
everything was in a poor shape. Three supports made of khapral stone on three
sides has ensured that the main temple would not fall down. If one proceeds
through the main door one reaches a pond in which the Vimaleshwar Lingam
resides. The great sage Markendaya had spoke of Vimaleshwar as follows: ‘Once
Uma, the wife of Lord Shiva had sent her consort to deceive the wives of the
sages in the wooden forest (Daruvan). Shiva’s image was tarnished by this act
and He had performed religious austerities here to become pure (Vimal). From
then on he has been eternally residing here under the name of Vimaleshwar.
Vimalahasou yato jatastenasau Vimaleshwarah
Ten namna swayang tasthou lokanang hitakammaya
(Rebakhand, section 226)
I have also read in the Udyog section of the epic Mahabharata that Twasta, a
member of the celestial clan Prajapati had given birth to a son called Trishira in
order to defeat Indra, the king of Gods. Similar to the sun, moon and fire gods,
Trishira had three faces. He used to recite the Vedas with one, drink liquor with
another and with the third watch the world with an ever-steady gaze. Upon
instructions from his father, Trishira performed austere penances to take over
Indra’s position. However on knowing this, Indra panicked and killed him. Due to
this grave sin of killing a Brahman Indra came to this place and meditated till his
sins were forgiven. Even the sun god Surya and Brahma, one of the holy Trinity
had performed religious austerities here. In addition, the sage Rishwashringa
along with his wife Shanta had come here to perform penances to ward off sins
accrued by eating the food meant for kings. He was the son of another great sage
called Bihandak who was also responsible for conducting a divine ritual (yajna)
called Putresti under the directions of king Dasharatha. Other circumambulators
have told me that other than those mentioned above, several sages have, at
different times, come to this spot for performing austerities to ward off their sins
making this place truly remarkable in its abilities to cleanse one off his vices.
Such is the fame of the place that be it the desire to remove the effects of
transgressions committed in daily lives with and without intention or attaining
success in meditation that has been long sought for, everyone says ‘let’s go to
Vimaleshwar.’ The Lord would forgive all sins and purge all vices. To see the
ruins of such a famous place made me extremely sad. Nevertheless, I entered
through the main door and offered my obeisance to the presiding deity of the
temple.
As soon as I stood up I heard someone laughing out loud shaking from head to
toe. As I turned I saw a sage who asked me amidst his laughter:
Patu Twam Girija Mata Jaswa Dwadashlochanah
Athava Giri-Jamata Dwadashadurdhalochanah
which meant that may the greatest of Gods,Shiva, who has more than twelve eyes
and who is the son-in-law of the Himalayas protect you. So be it also with the
God who is the son of mother Bhagavati and has a hundred faces (Sharanan) and
possesses twelve eyes.
“Where do you live? Are you circumambulating the river (Parikramavasi)? Are
you Bengali?” he asked.
I replied, “Respected sir, you have asked a lot of questions! Just like you can hear
me and tell that I am a Bengali, so can I from your accent that is like nectar to my
ears. Although I never expected to see someone of my clan, having travelled so
far from Bengal, but seeing you I am feeling a lot of elation in my heart. However,
I have a humble question for you. In the Sanskrit phrase (shloka) you recited, you
described Sharanan as having twelve eyes but we know that Shiva who has five
faces (Panchanan) should possess five times three eyes (taking into account his
additional third eye) which would number fifteen in all. Hence you could have
simply said, Shiva the possessor of fifteen eyes; instead you stated a complicated
riddle by mentioning that He has more than twelve eyes. What is the reason for
this?”
Upon hearing me he started laughing again and replied, “The shloka I recited is
the first verse of the famous riddle-filled poem Kavyavidhagdhamukhamandam.
Hence it would definitely have the complicated riddle pattern! Now tell me, are
you circumambulating the river? I have noticed that you have arrived from
Haridham in the northern banks and reached this place at five o clock in the
evening yesterday. I was present with other ascetics in the same boat as you
were. I had been on a trip to a place called Tabra in the northern side of the river.
I have been touched by the emotions in your voice while you recited the prayers
dedicated to the divine teachers (Gurus) at the spot where the river and
seawaters merged. I had made up my mind to approach you and copy down what
you had recited. However, I lost you in the commotion that ensued once the boat
touched the shores. I thought to myself that whoever you were, you would
definitely come to the temple of Vimaleshwar at least once. For that reason, I
have been waiting here for you.”
Saying these words, he once again began to laugh out loud. I told him that I
would talk to him later since I first needed to take a bath and offer my prayers to
Lord Vimaleshwar. “Do you know where I can take a bath?” I asked.
“Don’t do it in the well that is about fifty yards away from the temple. It contains
salty water; but the pond that is near it contains pure and drinkable water. You
can take a bath with that water. I will wait for you here” he replied.
I left my belongings there and took a towel and water pot (kamandalu) and
proceeded towards the pond. After taking a bath I walked across the temple
premises towards the sea. When there are high tides, the water levels reach the
temple walls. Now the tides are low. I went into the seawater carefully and
offered my regular prayers for the Sun God and my forefathers (Suryatarpan and
Pitritarpan) respectively. I came back to the ascetic and asked “ Doesn’t any
priest come to worship Vimaleshwar regularly?”
He replied, “ probably once a day, but there is not fixed schedule. I have heard
that he lives a few miles away from here. The king of Barabani has donated a lot
of property in the name of Lord Vimaleshwar. The priest is keener on farming
and making use of those lands rather than engaging himself on doing his daily
work of serving the Lord in the temple. However there is an outpost of Naga
ascetics below the bridge across the street. At midday, three ascetics come from
there to the temple. The small water-body in which the Shivalingam resides, has
a connection to the sea. At noon, several smaller Shivalingams sputter out of this
and the ascetics collect and return them. During festivals like Vyatipata-Yog (that
herald inauspicious happenings), Shiva Chaturdashi (day before the new moon)
or the Kartik and Baisaki (the seventh and first lunar months) Purnima (full
moon day) there are fairs held at this place. During such events too, the Nagas
stand guard with tridents and perform the task of returning the Shivalingams to
where they belong. I have no clue to the mystery of this event that repeats itself
between twelve and one at noon everyday. Neither do I know why the Nagas
perform such a deed or who has instructed them such. However, I have been
here on two previous occasions and have witnessed this happening.
I remembered the goddess Narmada and went toward the Shivalingam with the
Kamandul in hand. It was a beautiful. The part that was above water was yellow
in colour and its sparkling radiance symbolic of Shiva’s grandeur captivated my
mind. I sprinkled water on the Lingam, chanted the holy monosyllabic word
(mantra) and prostrated before it. Following this, I began to recite the collection
of one hundred and eight names of Mahadev (Shiva, the greatest of Gods)
composed by the great sage Tandi;
Om sthirah sthanuh Prabhubhimah Prabaro Barado Barah
Sarvatma Sarvavikhyatah Sarva Sarvakaro Bhabah
Jati Charmi Shikhandi cha Sarvanga Sarbabhanah
Harashcha Harinakshascha Sarvabhutaharah Prabhuh.. etc.
When the recitation was about to complete, I saw three Nagas had arrived. They
were carrying tridents and as they circled the place they were loudly chanting
‘Har Har Babam Mahadeo’ or Glory be to Lord Shiva. Within five minutes,
Shivalingams began to be ejected from the water enclosure in twos and threes.
Some of them fell into the water after coming out. The Nagas returned the ones
that fell outside. I had finished by then. I sat with folded hands and watched the
scene with amazement inwardly chanting the mantra that I was granted by my
Guru. I noticed that the ones that fell outside were almost miniature versions of
the main Vimaleshwar shivalingam! They shared the same color, signs and
radiance. After several minutes the sputtering episode ended. The Nagas burnt
some incense and offered it to the Lord. As everyone departed I realized that the
sage I had met earlier was standing behind me and watching the whole event.
Once the Nagas had left he said, “ Brother, would you kindly put your hand inside
your kamandul and see if you can find a Shivalingam or not? I have clearly seen
that one Shivalingam had fallen into your kamandul. The Nagas had missed it
because there was once a burst of several Shivalingams and this was one of them.
I put my hand inside in some disbelief and was astonished to find that indeed
there was a Shivalingam inside my kamandul. I touched it to my forehead and fell
into a trance. I placed it back in my kamandul and prostrated once again before
Bimaleshwar Shivalingam and offered my reverence. Tears were flowing down
my cheek and I was shivering. My legs were trembling and the sage held me by
hand and escorted me back to his temporary residence.