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2 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION
page two
He made Bruce Lee The science behind the art
and Jackie Chan stars LEONARDO, FROM PAGE 1
cause deaths, he wrote. One note Leon-
scenes helped the movie become the ardo wrote to himself reads “Make eye-
RAYMOND CHOW
1927-2018
most successful film shown in Hong glasses to see the moon larger.” The first
Kong to that point, breaking the box-of- known record of a telescope came
fice total set by “The Sound of Music.” around a century later.
BY AUSTIN RAMZY That success was followed by hits in- As usual, Leonardo’s musings were
cluding “Fist of Fury” and “The Way of written backward, starting from the
the Dragon.” right side of the page and moving to the
HONG KONG Raymond Chow, a Hong “In our early action films, we used ac- left, so that the words appeared normal
Kong film producer who thrust Bruce tors who knew little about fighting,” Mr. only when seen with a mirror. Theories
Lee and Jackie Chan into global stardom Chow told The New York Times in 1973. abound about why he did this: One sim-
while helping to transform the action “We had to use various camera tricks. ple explanation is that he was left-
movie genre, died on Friday in Hong But the audience can tell the difference. handed, and that writing this way didn’t
Kong. He was 91. It knows a real fighter when it sees one. smudge.
His death was confirmed in a state- That’s why Bruce Lee has been such a The codex now belongs to the Micro-
ment by Carrie Lam, Hong Kong’s chief hit.” soft co-founder and philanthropist Bill
executive. The statement did not list a After Mr. Lee’s death in 1973, Jackie Gates, who bought it at auction at
cause of death. Chan became a breakout star for Golden Christie’s in 1994 for $30.8 million. Until
A former journalist, Mr. Chow entered Harvest. He first imitated Mr. Lee, then last year, when the Church of Jesus
the film industry as a publicist in 1958, modified his style to develop a more ir- Christ of Latter-day Saints bought the
when he joined Shaw Brothers, a studio reverent, comedic style of kung fu film. printer’s manuscript of the Book of Mor-
that had a pioneering role in kung fu Mr. Chow pursued films in Hollywood mon for $35 million, it was believed to be
movies and other popular low-budget in the 1980s, and Golden Harvest the most expensive manuscript ever
films. But he quickly grew frustrated produced several American box-office sold.
with the quality of the studio’s output. hits, including “The Cannonball Run,” Next year is the 500th anniversary of
“It was hard to publicize a film that I with an ensemble cast that included Leonardo’s death, as well as the 25th an-
do not believe in,” he said in a 2011 inter- Burt Reynolds. niversary of Mr. Gates’s ownership of
view. “There are only so many lies I can Mr. Chow found small roles for Mr. the manuscript. “We felt the codex
tell. I can’t really exaggerate. Nobody Chan and the Hong Kong comedian Mi- needed to be part of the picture,” said
will believe us.” chael Hui in the movie, hoping to de- Fred Schroeder, the curator of the “Co-
So the studio founder, Run Run Shaw, velop the market for Chinese actors in dex Leicester” for Mr. Gates, and as
invited him to contribute his ideas on the United States. homecomings go, Florence was the logi-
scripts, and he soon became a producer. While his works were often critically cal site for that celebration. “It’s exciting
Mr. Chow longed for more freedom in his panned, Mr. Chow had an eye for box- for the codex to pay a visit to its birth-
work, and in 1970 he left to co-found his office success. In the 1990s, Golden Har- place,” Mr. Schroeder said.
own studio, Golden Harvest. vest produced the “Teenage Mutant The exhibition uses technological
Golden Harvest’s initial films did Ninja Turtles” series, based on earlier tools to better explain the codex “and
poorly against Shaw Brothers, which comic books and cartoons. The first film the extraordinary value of ideas it con-
dominated the local market. But Mr. took in more than $200 million. tains,” said the Leonardo expert Paolo
Chow then outbid his former employer Mr. Chow was born in Hong Kong on Galluzzi, who is the director of the
to sign Bruce Lee, a young actor and Oct. 8, 1927. He attended St. John’s Uni- Museo Galileo in Florence and the cura-
martial arts expert who had appeared in versity in Shanghai before returning to tor of the codex exhibition. The digital
the sidekick role of Kato on the Ameri- Hong Kong in 1949, when Mao Zedong animations, which were developed by a
can television series “The Green Hor- and the Communist Party took over team at the Museo Galileo, are a “way of
net.” China. He worked as a journalist for out- exploding his ideas,” he said.
Mr. Chow had seen Mr. Lee break lets including The Hong Kong Standard The exhibition’s “moral mission,” Mr.
boards in displays of powerful kicks and and Voice of America. Galluzzi added, is to “faithfully relate his
punches on Hong Kong television and The names of his survivors were not work” and not to misinterpret or force
learned that Shaw Brothers had been immediately available. the artist’s vision “to make Leonardo
unable to sign him to a film contract. His production company had a long the pioneer of everything.”
Golden Harvest offered him $15,000 run of success, but it stumbled after the Though his notebooks contain count-
for two films, along with a share of the 1997 Asian financial crisis, just as main- less inventions and intuitions that came
profits and greater say in the produc- land China’s film industry began to to life only centuries later, the exhibition
tion. Mr. Lee agreed, and Mr. Chow grow. He sold his stake in the company seeks to put them into context, “express
quickly flew his new actor to Thailand, in 2007 to the mainland businessman his thought correctly.”
where, in rough rural conditions, he Wu Kebo, who merged it with his own “This doesn’t mean diminishing his
filmed “The Big Boss” in 1971. entertainment group to create Orange work,” Mr. Galluzzi said, “it means en-
Mr. Lee’s intense aura and florid fight Sky Golden Harvest Entertainment. hancing it.”
Leonardo wrote much of the codex
from 1504 to 1508, when he was living in
Florence. An interactive map at the Uf-
fizi indicates where he spent time in the
city, painstakingly measuring the Arno
river, carrying out dissections at the
Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova and BILL GATES/BGC3, VIA UFFIZI GALLERY
studying the works of others, primarily “Studies on the Ashen Glow of the Moon,” from Leonardo Da Vinci’s scientific treatise “Codex Leicester” at the Uffizi Gallery.
at the library of the Convent of San
Marco, whose few remaining friars were
recently evicted. of the Magi,” exhibited again this year writings in conjunction with the three the world was much, much older than
With its three paintings by Leonardo after a five-year restoration. paintings,” he said. the Bible suggested.
that amply illustrate his “scientific ob- All three Leonardo paintings were Sections of the Leicester manuscripts Had he published his considerations,
servations on water,” the Uffizi was the moved to a new room in the Uffizi this subvert the Christian worldview of the he would undoubtedly have run afoul of
“right place for the exhibition,” the year, close to another refurbished room time, rooted in Genesis, the first book of the church. “Instead these were jottings
gallery’s director, Eike Schmidt, said in with works by Michelangelo and Ra- the Bible, which held that God had creat- he kept in his pocket,” Mr. Galluzzi said.
an interview. phael. ed the world and humans just a few Leonardo’s gloomy predictions for the
He described the “Baptism of Christ,” “Leonardo couldn’t have painted as thousand years before. future of the planet appear more proph-
a joint effort by Leonardo and his he did without his scientific observation Leonardo’s observations of fossils etic in the age of climate change.
teacher Andrea del Verrocchio, where of nature,” Mr. Schmidt said. The pres- begged to differ. “Part of the ‘Codex He contemplated that water would
the ripples of water around the feet of ence here of the “Codex Leicester,” Leicester’ is dedicated to a not explicit eventually erode mountains, submerg-
Christ and John the Baptist “fully show which is exhibited with pages from but clear polemic with Genesis,” said ing the entire planet under water. “And
Leonardo’s scientific mind.” Water in its other Leonardo treatises, like the “Co- Mr. Galluzzi, in particular with the ques- this would be the end of all terrestrial
STANLEY BIELECKI MOVIE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES various manifestations is also detailed dex Atlanticus,” the “Codex Arundel” tion “of the Great Flood.” Leonardo’s ob- creatures. Those are his words,” Mr.
Raymond Chow, center, on the set of “Enter the Dragon” in 1973 with Bruce Lee, right in Leonardo’s “Annunciation” and in the and the “Codex of the Flight of Birds,” “is servations of fossils and geological Galluzzi said. “He thinks that as life be-
and John Saxon. Mr. Chow’s film company co-produced the movie with Warner Bros. preparatory drawing for the “Adoration an opportunity for visitors to see his stratification had convinced him that gan, so it could end.”
with garments unlike any the young Mr. They are seeking an injunction that Residents of the NEO Bankside apartments, left, are suing the Tate Modern over its 10th-floor viewing platform, right.
Ashida had seen before. ways, and dressed the Japanese na- would require the gallery either to re-
After World War II and the United tional team for the 1996 Summer strict access to parts of the terrace adja-
States occupation, Japan experienced Olympics in Atlanta. His contributions cent to their homes or to erect a screen. stagram to 1,027 followers,” according to unreasonably seeking to “deny to the tle sympathy for the apartment owners,
rapid economic growth that prompted to Japanese culture won him the Purple Their claim is playing out as an old- local media reports. The viewing ter- public the right to use the viewing plat- with one person writing on Twitter, “So
new consumer tastes. Shoppers were in- Ribbon Medal, an award for creative fashioned bricks-and-mortar battle at a race is a rare spot in London to offer a form for its intended purpose merely to this is what people with too much money
terested in buying American-style gar- achievement bestowed by the govern- time when global concerns about digital free elevated look at the city, which ex- give the claimants an unencumbered do with their time huh?”
ments, and Japanese manufacturers ment. privacy have taken center stage. plains its popularity with tourists. (A right to enjoy their own view.” This is not the first case in which
rushed to meet their demands. His daughter, Ms. Ashida, is also a de- By operating its viewing terrace, Tate ticket to the London Eye, the giant Fer- The gallery’s leadership has argued neighbors’ concerns have clashed in
But Mr. Ashida was interested in signer. Modern is subjecting the apartments ris wheel by the Thames, costs 25.20 since the opening of the terrace for a London’s real estate market.
handcrafting, not mass production. He Complete information on survivors “to an unusually intense visual scru- pounds, or around $30, and admission to simple solution: Have the neighbors In 2014, Boris Johnson, who was may-
studied with the artist and fashion de- was not immediately available. tiny,” Tom Weekes, a lawyer for the St. Paul’s Cathedral, formerly the tallest draw the blinds on their floor-to-ceiling or at the time, stepped in to broker a deal
signer Jun-ichi Nakahara, and in 1960 “I think it is part of my duty to keep claimants, told the High Court. building in the city, is £16.) windows or install curtains. for an apartment block near the well-
the department store Takashimaya that part of Japanese culture,” Tae Mr. Weekes said that one of the claim- Guy Fetherstonhaugh, a lawyer for But the owners of luxury apartments known nightclub Ministry of Sound.
hired him as a consulting designer. Ashida told Vogue.com in 2017. “We ants once counted 84 people pho- the Tate board of trustees, told the court with a river view, which typically go on The developer agreed to include noise
Three years later he introduced his first have technical people here who have tographing his building over a 90- that visitors came for the view, rather the market for more than £2 million, protection in the building, and prospec-
clothing brand. been training themselves for a long minute period, and “discovered that a than to gawk at the apartments. have rejected that option. tive residents signed away their right to
Although his company bears his time, perfecting each detail.” photo of himself had been posted on In- He said the apartment owners were People reacted to the lawsuit with lit- complain about the noise.
..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 | 3
World
Hunters weighing caimans they had killed the night before in the Bolivian Amazon. Mixing a marinade with paiche, a freshwater fish that resembles a large carp. The chefs Marcelo Saenz, right, and Christian Gutierrez, preparing paiche.
For chefs, jungle-to-table is next big story At one meal, the chefs discovered a gi-
BOLIVIA DISPATCH
CACHICHIRA, BOLIVIA ant tapir — a plant-eating mammal
about the size of a pig with a short trunk
— roasting on a grill and helped them-
They trek into the Amazon selves to the ribs.
“I have never seen one dismembered
to find exotic ingredients this way,” said Mr. Barbón, licking his
for restaurants back home fingers. “It is truly delicious.”
Bernardo Resnikowski, a restaurant
BY NICHOLAS CASEY manager who wears luxurious sleeve
tattoos and moonlights as a D.J., later
The hunt began at nightfall under a cres- arrived with two Tacana men carrying
cent moon and with a chorus of frogs, machetes and a bowl of red, slightly fer-
which suddenly went silent when the ri- mented fruit, called kecho, which he
fles fired and the thrashing erupted. The shared with Ms. Taha and Mr. Barbón.
bodies were dragged onto the deck of “Not enough flesh to eat, but you
three boats: Six crocodilians were might blend them in a cocktail” was Ms.
landed one night and 14 the next. Some Taha’s verdict as she threw a handful
were nearly eight feet long, head to tail. into her mouth.
As gastronomy leaps from one trend By the time the party next saw the
to the next, the search for the next new firepit, there were no signs of the tapir.
thing has become a quest without end Instead, the giant river turtle had taken
for many chic restaurants. And the role its place, doomed to the grill with its
of the chef is changing, too: The greatest shell cracked open and stuffed with po-
cooks these days are also the greatest tatoes and chili peppers.
storytellers, not just serving up meals An old Tacana recipe book contains a
but also long yarns about the who, what litany of ways to make peta, their name
and where of the origins of their ingredi- for the creature, but the chefs seemed
ents. doubtful about the taste of the gooey in-
Which is why I was with some of the nards, chewy skin and orphaned paws
finest chefs in the Andes at Lake Col- sitting atop rice.
orada in northwestern Bolivia, home of “This kind of meat wouldn’t be legal to
the spectacled caiman, a relative of the sell anyway, though the Tacanas are al-
alligator. lowed to serve it in their villages,” Ms.
Once every few years, a group of Taha explained.
cooks and owners from acclaimed “Who said we would sell it to you if it
restaurants in Bolivia, Argentina and were legal?” barked Eduardo Cart-
Peru hire a river boat to take them to agena, one of the village leaders, evi-
places unlisted in the Michelin Guide dently enjoying his share of the turtle.
and where no food critic has likely ever As night settled, the Tacanas were
dared to tread. back on Lake Colorada. I sat in the back
Here, at the lake and along the Beni of a leaky canoe as Rene Rubén Lurici
River in the Bolivian Amazon basin, the Aguilara, a sharpshooter, stood at the
restaurateurs were hunting for some- bow, a flashlight wedged between his
thing new to cook. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MEGHAN DHALIWAL FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES chin and his shoulder, his rifle scanning
They said I could join them on this ad- Marsia Taha leading a line of fellow chefs through a canyon in the Madidi National Park in the Bolivian Amazon, where they were searching for something new to cook. the surface of the water.
venture, and on an October day I went A pair of caiman eyes surfaced, glow-
ashore with the chefs at a village of the ing gold in the light of the torch. The
indigenous Tacana people, whose Or the tale of cacao beans that are “These are the things we are looking to recipe calls for blanching the fungus in “Meat was always, if you will, on the hunter took aim. Not quick enough. The
caiman-hunting season had just begun. picked in the fall from trees that grow buy.” water before it is served. He tore off a table as another resource that would al- caiman submerged, submarine-like.
The Tacanas had sent a delegation wild around the village of Carmen del The stories flow both ways, and some- piece and we chewed away, savoring the low them to get more out of every ani- It was the lucky one.
ahead to greet their visitors: A notary Emero and that are composted in an un- times it’s the outsiders who teach the lo- spicy aftertaste while also hoping the mal,” said Rob Wallace, a director at the By 1 a.m., our boat was heavy with the
who takes caiman measurements, the dergrowth of strangler figs and jaguar cals about what’s edible in this jungle. chef was correct in the identification of Wildlife Conservation Society in Bolivia, weight of the bodies of five large rep-
village mayor who cuts fillets and two droppings. “Callampa,” said Mauricio Barbón, his mushroom. a nongovernmental group that helped tiles.
sharpshooters chewing huge wads of Or the story of tuyo tuyo, the larvae of the head chef at Amaz, a restaurant in As for the caimans in the lake, they the Tacanas develop the conservation While Gustu has been selling the
coca leaf, which helps them stay awake a beetle that lives in an Amazonian palm Lima, Peru, that specializes in Amazo- are as much an experiment for conser- plan for the caiman. caiman meat for some time, Amaz, the
at night as they spot the caiman’s eyes tree, long a delicacy in these parts and nian ingredients. He was pointing to a vationists as the chefs. A management The hunt, which goes on for weeks in restaurant in Lima, has had trouble get-
with flashlights from a canoe. more recently served as an appetizer at fallen log with shelves of a flesh-colored program sets strict limits on how many October, was a family affair. Mothers ting a license to import the meat to Peru.
The caiman hunt would not be the Gustu, a famed restaurant in Bolivia’s fungus growing on it. may be hunted, of what size and when helped skin the meat as a baby swung in But over breakfast Mr. Barbón, the
only tale for the chefs on this trip for ex- capital, La Paz. “We’ve never tried it before,” said an during the year. The Tacanas have a hammock nearby. Others in the village Amaz chef, couldn’t help but daydream
otic new foods. “We are seeing things hanging in your intrigued Javier Duri Matias, a young learned they can earn far more selling played games with a large, luckless about how he might serve up caiman
Consider the big fish story to be told kitchens, foods you might not think peo- Tacana leader who was showing us certified pelts for export than they made river turtle that lay on its backside, glum meat one day for his customers, who
about the paiche, a freshwater monster ple in cities would be interested in,” Mar- through the forest. when the hunting was uncontrolled. and unable to right itself. have included the celebrity chef Antho-
that resembles a carp but is far larger sia Taha, the head chef at Gustu, said The fungus looked almost exactly like Now, the clan is also selling the flesh In the village, caiman was not the only ny Bourdain.
and prehistoric-looking. one night to the elders in the village. an ear. Mr. Barbón explained that his to these enterprising chefs. meat on the menu. “We would try to fry it,” he said.
world
world
tech
Keeping tabs on election disinformation Why should people care about acces-
sory dwelling units?
It’s basically an extra building you can
space upstairs.
Opinion
Why do we destroy what makes us?
A historic
part of Cairo
is being
razed. Its
demolition
means the
loss of
heritage
buildings
— and of
characters
and customs.
buildings taking over surrounding In 2008, the government entity for Above, what was
Yasmine El Rashidi agricultural land and desert, and high- physical planning unveiled a develop- left of Cairo’s
Contributing Writer rises replacing villas or vacant lots in ment plan called “Cairo 2050” that Maspero Triangle,
the city’s center. Today, Greater Cairo’s envisioned the city like a rendition of first developed in
population is estimated at 23.5 million, Dubai. Maspero Triangle was deemed the 1400s, in
and grew by approximately 500,000 to be a slum and was to be remade April.
CAIRO There is a district close to the people in 2017. Two-thirds of its resi- instead as “Manhattan in Cairo.” The
center of downtown Cairo that extends dents live in informal settlements, plan was the first of many proposals
from the banks of the Nile about one according to government and NGO over subsequent years, and subse-
kilometer into one of the city’s most sources. Maspero Triangle encapsu- quent governments, that were shelved
significant historic thoroughfares. lates all that history — the country’s for lack of planning, funds or support.
Known as Maspero Triangle, it’s a history — and the richness, sociolog- Then, in 2016, President Abdel Fat-
wedge-shaped area of some 85 acres ical and cultural, bred by adaptation to tah el-Sisi announced that all unsafe
that has been home to 18,000 residents economic challenges. informal settlements would be elimi-
— until this year, when the govern- In the late 1800s, the district was the nated within two years. Maspero Tri-
ment started forcibly evicting what property of a wealthy Ottoman noble- angle is among the most visibly con-
residents it could by cutting off water man, Sharkas Pasha, who let his ser- tested, partly because of its location
and electricity, and then bulldozing vants build houses and heritage status, and partly be-
buildings to the ground. The oral on the land in ex- cause only about one-third of it, ac-
The district’s first signs of develop- change for rent. cording to several urbanists I spoke to,
ment date back to the 1400s, with the
history When the Sharkas might have been fairly called unsafe. It
Sultan Abu El Ela Mosque, which still of these family left Egypt for was an area I walked or drove through
stands at its northern tip. But its main alleyways Turkey in the 1940s, every day for years, when I worked at
structures were erected in the 19th spans several the land was placed a local weekly paper in a bordering
century and passed down through political eras. in an endowment neighborhood; the Maspero bakery,
generations after that. Over the years, When the that guaranteed the the corner fruit stand, the Italian club
vacant land in the center of the trian- residents servants’ leases for and the historic watch shop Hinhayat
gle was built up informally, by resi- of Maspero the next two dec- were all places I frequented.
dents with no formal deeds, slowly ades. It reverted to One can’t deny that parts of the city
becoming part of the architectural and
Triangle the government in are run down, or that haphazard addi-
cultural heritage of Cairo. Some of the leave, all 1968 and was sold to tions on buildings can be unsafe. But
buildings have — had — facades with of this will Kuwaiti and Saudi the organic way in which such districts
elaborate stone corbels, internal mar- disappear. investors. developed, mixing the historic and the
ble staircases and palazzo-style apart- But those deals makeshift, gives them a unique cultur-
ments of room after room with four- overlooked the fact al value. The heritage they represent is
meter-high stucco-detailed ceilings. that by then some of the area’s resi- tangible, in the form of buildings and
Today, when you drive into the city dents had already sold their shares in trees, and intangible, by way of
over the main bridge and look down as plots. And they overlooked a 1941 customs and characters.
you approach Tahrir Square, Maspero rent-control law under which residents Residents in Maspero Triangle
Triangle is a mass of rubble and rising couldn’t be evicted nor could their would exchange news and recipes
YASMINE EL RASHIDI
dust, reminiscent of photographs of rents be raised. across balconies, and passed on disap-
many a city after war. Only a dozen or President Anwar el-Sadat contended pearing skills like clock repairing from The government started evicting what residents it could by cutting off water and elec-
so buildings remain, some with their with this problem in the late 1970s by one generation to the next. The neigh- tricity, and then bulldozing to the ground what had been home to 18,000 residents.
top floors destroyed by cranes — a ordering a moratorium on renovations borhood held on to age-old traditions:
government tactic to then declare the or improvements to buildings in the During Ramadan, musaharati walked
structures unsafe. area — the intention being to let them the narrow streets at dawn hollering to
As the country’s population swelled fall into forced dereliction. In the late observing Muslims to rise for their last
in the 1960s and people migrated from 1990s, under President Hosni Muba- meal before the fast. The oral history
rural to urban areas, city housing fell rak, a law was passed that gave the of these alleyways spans several poli-
in short supply. Cairo grew outward government the right to claim and tical eras. When the residents of
and inward at the same time, with demolish anything for “public utility.” Maspero Triangle leave, all of this will
disappear.
Maspero residents were offered
60,000 Egyptian pounds (about
$3,350) per room, a relocation fee of
40,000 Egyptian pounds (about $2,200)
and either rent-subsidized housing in
Asmarat, a low-income suburb in the
desert, or the chance to return to
Maspero once it is rebuilt — a possibil-
ity that few of them believe in.
In an interview in August a journal-
ist asked Khaled Siddiq, who heads the
government’s Informal Settlements
Development Fund, why the 290 stores
in Asmarat were still closed, despite
the relocations. Mr. Siddiq said, “We’re
working on unifying the styles of their
AHMED EL BINDARI
facades, so they all look the same and
conform to an image of the ideal soci- Elaborate stone corbels and internal marble staircases defined many of the buildings.
ety. We won’t leave any room for ran-
domness to come back to this area
again.” a majestic building that was the site of be spared. The government must stop
Yet randomness is why in Cairo, as Egypt’s declaration of independence looking outward to mimic other parts
in, say, Rome, you might turn a corner from the British in 1922 — to make of the world. Instead it should focus
or enter a crumbling alleyway and find way for a luxury hotel and shopping inward — on its own population’s
an ancient ruin. mall. The pyramids of Giza used to be needs and human dignity here, and on
But even as rising water levels have a long drive of desert stretch away; that piece of the world’s heritage that
threatened monuments, such as the now the city just about touches their resides in Egypt and that once lost can
Sphinx, cultural landmarks like the edge. never be recovered.
singer Umm Kulthum’s home are left It may be too late as well to save
to be demolished and sold off to devel- what remains of Maspero Triangle, but YASMINE EL RASHIDI is the author of “The
opers. Earlier this year, the govern- there are two dozen other informal Battle for Egypt: Dispatches from the
YASMINE EL RASHIDI
ment began destroying the Grand neighborhoods in Cairo alone that are Revolution” and “Chronicle of a Last
Some of the buildings had palazzo-style apartments with four-meter-high stucco-detailed ceilings. Continental hotel in downtown Cairo — slated for a similar fate and might still Summer: A Novel of Egypt.”
..
8 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION
opinion
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THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 | 9
opinion
There’s
course, you’re a
survivor of an herb-
yans were off just by 10 years.”
ROASTED VEGETABLE LASAGNA. This
cozy dish layers savory roasted vege-
casserole will not allow you to travel related trauma and tables with wide flat noodles, much the
LEONHARDT, FROM PAGE 1 Not so long ago, Hungary was a media ignores inconvenient stories,
through time. Sorry!
nothing like suffer dill-induced way time is layered with your egre-
and said that his party is the only one shining example of post-Soviet suc- like anti-Orban protests. Instead, it
SHEPHERD’S PIE. What’s worse than a home-style flashbacks, which is gious mistakes and carelessness. May-
that represents the real people. cess. Power alternated between the pumps conspiracies, especially anti- dish to keep
Does any of this sound familiar? center-right and center-left. Orban — a immigrant, anti-Roma and anti-Semitic calling oneself a pie, despite being supposedly the least be you haven’t yet figured out how to
I cannot imagine the United States pro-democracy activist during the end ones, as the writer Paul Lendvai has filled with beef? Why, not having ac- you from desirable form of traverse the past while riding an 11-
or a Western European country turn- of Soviet rule in Hungary, who co- noted. During my stay, newspapers ran cess to a time machine, of course! thinking time travel. pound starch-and-broth-filled Pyrex
ing into Russia or China. But I can see founded Fidesz as a center-right party Soros-related stories for little apparent Shepherds herd sheep, which must be about World ANCIENT GRAIN AND sled to repair all the damage you’ve
how a major democracy could slide — originally became prime minister in reason, and there was talk of “the why they were cool with turning cows War III. VEGETABLE CASSEROLE. incurred in your short life.
toward Hungarian autocracy. Orban 1998. After only one term, and to his Soros caravan” — the same made-up into deceptively named non-dessert Bet you thought this But slow cookers will go on sale
clearly has such ambitions, and the far shock, he lost the job. story making the rounds on the Ameri- items. Surprisingly, the mutton-filled one would be a time soon, and with free shipping and some
right across much of Europe views him He responded with a plan to recap- can right. “cowherd’s pie” never quite caught on, machine for sure. jumper cables, you just might be able
as its model. Steve Bannon has praised ture power for “15 to 20 years,” as he I found it chilling to return home to a almost giving the impression that Nope! Though ancient grains do not to rectify those childhood grievances
him as the world’s most significant said at the time. “We have only to win Republican closing message in the society had room in its heart for only actually transport you back to ancient between the midterms and Thanksgiv-
politician. once, but then properly,” he explained. midterms that echoed Orban’s so one crust-covered baked meat dish times, they are haunted, providing you ing.
Most alarming, the Republican Party Fidesz did win in 2010, with help from closely. In both, fictitious invading pretending to be pie. a nifty portal for communicating with
has shown multiple signs of early a bungling socialist hordes — and those who supposedly MEDITERRANEAN TUNA NOODLE CASSE- the netherworld. SARAH HUTTO is a writer whose work has
ROLE. Though this dish boasts a sen- “Amaranth, what was it like riding a appeared in The New Yorker, The
Orbanism. No, the party is not as bad Just like government and support them — are the enemy of the
as Fidesz, and, yes, American democ- widespread income people. sory transport to the Mediterranean, horse and buggy everywhere?” Washington Post and McSweeney’s.
racy remains much healthier than the
Fox News, stagnation. Orban Orban’s culture war also involves a
Hungarian version. But the parallels the Hungar- went to work. lot of machismo. He has tried to elimi-
are there for anyone willing to see ian media His strategy has nate gender studies from Hungary’s
them: Like Orban, Republican leaders ignores had three main universities. In the senior leadership of
have repeatedly been willing to change inconvenient pillars. One, he Fidesz, not a single minister is a wom-
the rules and customs of democracy stories, like sought to control the an. The role of women, the speaker of
for the sake of raw power. anti-Orban media. Two, he the National Assembly has said, is “to
The list includes: rushing unpopular protests. launched a Chris- give birth to as many grandchildren as
bills through Congress with little de- tian-themed culture possible for us.”
bate; telling bald lies about those bills; war that discredits As I kept seeing photos of male
stealing a Supreme Court seat to main- his opponents. politicians in Hungary, I was reminded
tain a Republican majority; trying to Three, he changed the rules of democ- of the all-male group of Republicans
keep American citizens from voting; racy. In each of these ways — just as who tried to rewrite health care law in
gerrymandering; campaigning on Bannon understands — Fidesz is a the United States. Or the all-male
racism and xenophobia; refusing to turbocharged version of the Republi- group of Republicans who designed
investigate President Trump’s corrup- can Party. Trump’s tax cut. Or the all-male group
tion and Russian ties. Orban has made sure his allies run of Republicans who handle Supreme
Usually, Trump is not even the main most major media companies. If you Court nominations on the Senate Judi-
force behind these tactics. Other Re- imagine that Rupert Murdoch, Sinclair ciary Committee.
publicans are. In North Carolina, after
Republicans lost the governorship in
2016, they went so far as to strip the
office of some of its authority. Of
course it’s true that Democrats some-
Broadcasting Group and conservative
talk radio controlled most of American
media, you’d have a good sense for
today’s Hungarian media. (And many
Americans indeed get much of their
But no parallel is stronger or more
worrisome than the subverting of
public opinion, through changes to
election laws and other steps. István
Bibó, a 20th-century Hungarian poli-
Whatever happens
times play rough too, but there is no
list remotely like the one above for
them.
That’s why the midterms are so
important. The Republicans will almost
information from Murdoch, Sinclair or
talk radio.)
Just like Fox News, the Hungarian
tician and writer, once wrote that
democracy was threatened when the
cause of the nation became separated
from the cause of liberty. That has
already happened in Hungary, and
next, we’ll help you
certainly lose the nationwide popular
vote in the House elections. Yet if they
still hold on to their majority — thanks
to partly to voter suppression — party
leaders will take it as an endorsement
there are alarming signs — signs that I
never expected to see — in the United
States.
Conservative parties, wherever they
are, should by all means push for the
make sense of it.
of their strategy. They will have paid political changes they favor, be it less
no political price for their power grab.
They will be tempted to go further —
to suppress more votes, use more
immigration, more public religion,
lower taxes on the rich or almost any-
thing else. But win or lose, those con-
Newspaper subscription offer:
racism, cover up more scandals and
violate more democratic rules and
servative parties also need to accept
the basic rules of democracy.
Save 66% for three months.
customs. When they instead subvert those
The United States won’t suddenly rules, I hope that citizens — including
become Hungary. We start from a conservatives — have the courage to
much stronger place. But our democra- resist. In Hungary, it is no longer easy
cy will suffer. And democracies can to do so. In the United States, this
In unpredictable times, you need journalism that cuts through
deteriorate more quickly than people week will help determine the health of the noise to deliver the facts. A subscription to The New York
often realize. ALEX NABAUM our democracy.
Times International Edition gives you uncompromising reporting
that deepens your understanding of the issues that matter,
and includes unlimited access to NYTimes.com and apps for
HORN, FROM PAGE 8 repeated in the holy books. you: the first responders who rushed
concrete barriers sprouted in front of When Ms. Mallinger was 97, she and to your rescue, the neighbors who
my family’s synagogue, police cruisers 10 other Jews were murdered in their overwhelmed evil with kindness, the
parked in the lot. This felt practical in a synagogue. There are words for this Americans of every background who
nation on edge; we assumed it affected
everyone. As my children were born
too, a Hebrew phrase for 2,500 years’
worth of people murdered for being
inspire more optimism than Jewish
history allows. May this country com-
Order the International Edition today at
and grew, the barriers and guards
became their normal. When I took my
Jews: kiddush hashem, death in sancti-
fication of God’s name.
fort you, with its infinite promise.
As George Washington vowed in his
nytimes.com/discover
children to an interfaith Thanksgiving My children were right: This story is 1790 letter to a Rhode Island syna-
service at a church down the street old, with far too many words. Yet they gogue, America shall be a place where
from our synagogue, one of them were wrong about one thing. In the old “every one shall sit in safety under his
asked me why no one was guarding stories, those outside the community own vine and fig tree, and there shall
the door. rarely helped or cared; our ancestors’ be none to make him afraid.” Those
In the years that followed, the inter- consolation came only from one an- words aren’t his. They’re from the
net suddenly allowed anyone to say other and from God. But in this horrific Hebrew prophet Micah, on the shelves
whatever he wanted, rewarding the week, perhaps our old words might of every synagogue in the world.
most outrageous from every political mean something new. This week in synagogue as always,
stripe. Soon, comments sections be- When they return to synagogue, we read from the scroll we call the Tree
came an open sewer, flowing with mourners will be greeted with more of Life, and the place will comfort us.
centuries-old garbage — and as social ancient words: “May God comfort you As we put the book away, we repeat
media exploded, those comments among the mourners of Zion and Jeru- the words from Lamentations: “Renew
scaled up to the open vitriol of the past salem.” In that verse, the word used for our days as of old.” Offer expires December 31, 2018 and is valid for new subscribers only. Hand delivery subject to confirmation
few years. To young Jews this felt God is hamakom — literally, “the by local distributors. Smartphone and tablet apps are not supported on all devices.
confusing. To old Jews it must have felt place.” May the place comfort you. DARA HORN is the author of five novels,
familiar, a memory passed down and May the people in this place comfort most recently “Eternal Life.”
..
10 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Business
Farmers hope for trade deal before crops rot
sociation. By undermining that reputa-
ARTHUR, N.D.
tion, he said, “We have done long-term
damage to the industry.”
The last two decades were a fat sea-
China’s retaliatory tariffs son in the soybean belt. The grain silos
and pickup trucks in Cass County are
on U.S. soybeans hit shiny and new. Mr. Karel said a signifi-
a once-thriving industry cant number of the farmers who sell
crops to his company had done so well
BY BINYAMIN APPELBAUM that they had purchased winter homes
around Phoenix.
This is harvest season in the rich farm- But the mood is souring quickly. Mr.
lands of the eastern Dakotas, the time of Gebeke’s wife, Debra, a retired psychol-
year Kevin Karel checks his computer ogist, has returned to work at North Da-
first thing in the morning to see how kota State University, to counsel dis-
many of his soybeans Chinese compa- traught farmers. Public health officials
nies have purchased while he was sleep- in North Dakota, already confronting a
ing. recent rise in suicides, are concerned
Farmers here in Cass County, N.D., about the impact of falling prices, partic-
have prospered over the last two dec- ularly on younger farmers with high lev-
ades by growing more soybeans than els of debt.
any other county in the United States Mr. Gebeke, 65, recalled President
and by shipping most of those beans Jimmy Carter’s decision to suspend
across the Pacific Ocean to feed Chinese wheat sales to the Soviet Union in 1979.
pigs and chickens. The embargo ended two years later but,
But this year, the Chinese have all but by then, the Soviets were getting more
stopped buying. The largest market for of their grain from Ukraine. Speaking of
one of America’s largest exports has the soybean standoff, he said, “They
shut its doors. The Chinese government could get together tomorrow and iron
imposed a tariff on American soybeans this thing all out and I don’t think we’ll
in response to the Trump administra- ever get all of our market back.”
tion’s tariffs on Chinese goods. The lat- As China swallows the world’s supply
est federal data, through mid-October, of non-American soybeans, other coun-
shows American soybean sales to China tries are buying more beans from the
have declined by 94 percent from last United States, especially European na-
year’s harvest. tions that usually import beans from
Mr. Karel, the general manager of the Brazil.
Arthur Companies, which operates six Some nations that grow soybeans,
grain elevators in eastern North Dako- like Canada, are shipping their own
ta, has started to pile one million bushels beans to China at high prices and then
of soybeans on a clear patch of ground buying American beans at lower prices
behind some of his grain silos. The big to meet domestic demand. Taiwan,
mound of yellowish-white beans, al- seeking to curry favor, signed a deal to
ready one of the taller hills in this flat buy more American soybeans over the
part of the world, will then be covered next two years.
with tarps. None of this is nearly enough. During
The hope is that prices will rise before PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN KOECK FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES the first six weeks of the current export
the beans rot. Above left, a hill of soybeans being stored in Casselton, N.D., where exporters wait for a price increase. Right, the Arthur Companies’ grain facility in Pillsbury, N.D. Below, from year, which began in September, Ameri-
“We’re sitting on the edge of our seat,” left: Soybeans being delivered to a grain elevator; a board showing the status of bins in the grain elevators; and harvesting soybeans near a wind farm. can soybean exports to China are down
Mr. Karel said. by about six million tons from last year,
President Trump sees tariffs as a tool while soybean exports to the rest of the
to force changes in America’s economic world are up by only three million tons.
relationships with China and other ma- Some analysts predict China will be
jor trading partners. His tough ap- forced to buy more American beans af-
proach, he says, will revive American in- ter it exhausts other sources. Others are
dustries like steel and auto manufactur- hopeful that China and the United States
ing that have lost ground to foreign ri- will reach a deal to remove the tariffs.
vals. But that is coming at a steep cost But waiting carries risks. Soybeans
for some industries, like farming, that can spoil, and Brazil harvests its crop in
have thrived in the era of globalization the spring, creating fresh competition
by exporting goods to foreign markets. for American beans. “Hope is unfortu-
China and other trading partners hit nately a terrible marketing plan,” said
with the tariffs, including the European Nancy Johnson, executive director of
Union, have sought to maximize the po- the North Dakota Soybean Growers As-
litical impact of their reprisals. The Eu- sociation.
ropean Union imposed tariffs on bour- The industry continues to seek new
bon, produced in Kentucky, the home markets. Jim Sutter, chief executive of
state of the Senate majority leader, they trust Mr. Trump to negotiate in the North Dakota’s soybean industry was duction of soybeans increased, compa- keting programs like trade missions to the U.S. Soybean Export Council, said he
Mitch McConnell, and on Harley-Da- nation’s interest. Mr. Karel said many of created by Chinese demand for the nies spent millions of dollars on larger China and research intended to con- was focused on persuading Indians to
vidson motorcycles, from Wisconsin, his customers wear red “Make Ameri- beans, which are crushed to make feed grain elevators, on the 110-car trains vince Chinese farmers that pigs raised eat more chicken.
the home state of House Speaker Paul can Great Again” caps and insist that for animals and oil for human consump- that carry the soybeans west to the Pa- on American soybeans grow faster and The Trump administration said in Au-
Ryan. China's decision to impose tariffs the pain of lost business and lower prof- tion. cific Coast, on bigger terminals at the fatter. In 2015, North Dakota soybean gust that it would distribute $3.6 billion
on soybeans squeezes some of Mr. its is worthwhile. They say they’ll suffer China is by far the world’s largest im- ports. A few years ago, Mr. Gebeke farmers footed the bill for an event in to soybean farmers to offset the decline
Trump's staunchest supporters across now so their children benefit later — porter of soybeans. The country con- traded his grain drill, used to plant Shanghai honoring the 10 “most loyal” in market prices. The subsidy rate of
the Midwestern farm belt. echoing the argument Mr. Trump has sumed 110 million tons of soybeans in wheat, for a second machine to plant buyers of American soybeans. 82.5 cents per bushel, however, covers
Like most successful American ex- made. 2017, and 87 percent of those beans were soybeans. The soybean industry’s sales pitch less than half of the losses facing North
ports, soybeans are produced at high ef- Others are less enthusiastic. Greg imported — the vast majority from ei- The Arthur Companies in 2016 emphasized the reliability of American Dakota farmers at current market
ficiency by a small number of workers Gebeke, who farms 5,000 acres outside ther Brazil or the United States. While opened a drying, storage and loading fa- infrastructure and the political stability prices.
using cutting-edge technologies, like Arthur with two of his brothers, said he soybeans are grown throughout the cility that can hold 2.7 million bushels of of the United States. The message was Brandon Hokama, whose family
tractors connected to satellites so the struggled to understand the administra- Midwest, the soybean fields of North beans waiting for the next train. that the Chinese could be confident that farms 3,500 acres near Ellendale, N.D.,
optimal mix of fertilizers can be spread tion’s goals. Dakota are the part of soybean country Soybean farmers also spent millions American farmers would deliver high estimates that they need a price of $8.75
on each square foot of farmland. The “I’m trying to follow and figure out that is closest to the Pacific Ocean, and of dollars cultivating the Chinese mar- quality soybeans. per bushel of soybeans to break even.
United States exported $26 billion in who the winners are in this tariff war,” so its beans are mostly sent to China. ket. Farmers in North Dakota and other “I’ve been to China 25 times in the last Last year at this time, soybeans could be
soybeans last year, and more than half Mr. Gebeke said. “I know who one of the In the mid-1990s, there were 450,000 states contribute a fixed percentage of decade talking about the dependability sold for almost $10 per bushel. Now, lo-
went to China. losers are, and that’s us. And that’s acres of soybeans in the state. Last year, revenue to a federal fund called the of U.S. soybeans,” said Kirk Leeds, the cal elevators are offering prices below
Some farmers in North Dakota say painful.” there were 6.4 million. As the state’s pro- “soybean checkoff” that pays for mar- chief executive of the Iowa Soybean As- $7.
business
Sports
A role model for winning off the bench
what could I do? I was frustrated for
On Pro Basketball four years, but I dealt with it. I never
said anything. But I was frustrated
with the whole deal.”
Olympic Melo has won plaudits for
BY MARC STEIN his role in helping U.S.A. Basketball
secure gold medals in 2008, 2012 and
It is the go-to comparison in N.B.A. 2016, but he’ll have to be a positive
circles whenever the subject turns to force on an N.B.A. title team like Eight-
the much-debated Carmelo Anthony ies McAdoo if he hopes to really
experiment in Houston. For years, change his on-court legacy.
Anthony’s critics have wondered: How Pinning the Rockets’ 3-5 start on
much longer will it take for him to Anthony would be unfair. For starters,
embrace off-the-bench duty, as Bob there have been no indications that
McAdoo did at 30? he’s putting up any resistance to what
No less an authority than Rockets D’Antoni has asked to him to do. Fur-
Coach Mike D’Antoni drew that precise thermore, Chris Paul missed two
parallel on opening night, volunteering games because of a suspension, while
to reporters that he hoped Anthony James Harden missed three because of
would ultimately accept it, in the same a hamstring strain as the most notable
reputation-changing manner that of multiple Houston injuries. In the
McAdoo did with the Los Angeles wake of losing the savvy wing defense
Lakers in the 1980s. provided by Trevor Ariza, as well as
“I know it’s tough,” D’Antoni said of guidance from the freshly retired
the role Houston has asked Anthony to defensive coordinator Jeff Bzdelik,
adopt at 34. But D’Antoni quickly add- Houston was ranked a feeble 21st in
ed that McAdoo’s having become a the league defensively through Sunday.
two-time champion as a Lakers re- The fact that the Rockets are allow-
serve “kind of softens it up a bit.” ing nearly 17 points more per 100 pos-
But does it? For certain? Are we sessions with Anthony on the floor
maybe underestimating the size of the only fuels the perception that Melo is
challenge involved when a former the one dragging them down. Ditto for
scoring-machine first option, like Melo the fact that Anthony’s best offensive
or Doo, is asked to change his mental- game — 24 points in a home loss to the
ity so drastically? Los Angeles Clippers on Oct. 26 —
The obvious answer: Seek out Mc- came after he filled in for the ailing
Adoo and ask him. Harden in the starting lineup.
I have always been upfront about Talking to McAdoo, though, made
my Buffalo Braves fandom, having me wonder if we know-it-alls on the
lived in Western New York for nearly outside underestimate the scale of the
all of the Braves’ existence, so I natu- experiment. It’s something to think
rally enjoy speaking to McAdoo when- about, at the very least, if the player
ever the opportunity presents itself. routinely credited for giving Melo his
Yet this conversation was not about blueprint makes that case.
paying homage to the greatest Brave “It was worth it,” McAdoo said. “But
of them all. To get a sense of the ad- MARY ALTAFFER/ASSOCIATED PRESS still, looking back, I think we would
justment Anthony is facing with the A bench role in Houston may take Carmelo Anthony, right, closer to a championship than starting in New York and Oklahoma City ever could. Bob McAdoo could give him advice. have been even better with me start-
struggling Rockets, there is perhaps no ing. You say all kinds of things like that
more qualified expert in the field to in your mind.”
talk to than McAdoo. 1981, that he had had no advance warn- mind about coming off the bench. It — but who had also found himself Nets led McAdoo to the Lakers — only As for sharing such thoughts with
He’s still a scout with the Miami ing that he would not be a starter in just happened. To me, it was a wrap I increasingly painted with the “selfish” for Jim Brewer, Mark Landsberger and Riley, McAdoo said he largely held off
Heat at 67, after many years on the Los Angeles — and that his three-plus would start. They didn’t have anyone label as injuries and ringless seasons ultimately Kurt Rambis to get turns until they were working side by side in
Heat bench as an assistant under Pat seasons with the Lakers’ second unit who could stick with me at that posi- piled up. The famed Boston Celtics starting ahead of the league’s 1975 Miami — long after the sweet-shooting
Riley, Stan Van Gundy and Erik Spoel- were harder than he had ever let on. tion.” patriarch Red Auerbach once told The most valuable player. 1970s precursor to Kevin Durant had
stra. So he is precluded by league rules “It was a great opportunity for me to Yet Riley, then coaching the Lakers, New York Times: “Bob was more “But I dealt with it,” McAdoo said, stopped playing.
from discussing Anthony or his situa- play with Kareem and Magic,” McAdoo repeatedly found a forward to start concerned with personal achievements “because I had never been on a cham- “He knows,” McAdoo said with a
tion directly. But McAdoo didn’t hesi- said. “For the first time in my career, I ahead of McAdoo, who had established than team achievements.” pionship team. And I’ve never been chuckle. “We’ve talked about it. He
tate to tell me, nearly 40 years since he had a chance to win a championship. a league record by winning three scor- Checkered stints with the Celtics, the one to cause disruption or anything knows I didn’t like coming off the
joined the Lakers on Christmas Eve in “But I had no thoughts at all in my ing titles in Buffalo before he turned 25 Detroit Pistons and the New Jersey like that. I wasn’t happy about it. But bench behind Kurt.”
WIZARD of ID DILBERT
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For solving tips A 4x4 grid will use the digits 47 Placed coins in, as a
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Culture
Nazi loot still at large
One family has recovered
a great deal, but not, so far,
an 1890 portrait by Degas
BY CATHERINE HICKLEY
looted from his father. Clockwise from above, “Portrait of Mlle. Gabrielle Diot,” a Degas portrait taken from the Parisian art dealer Paul Rosenberg by the
Not among them was the portrait of Nazis; “Woman in a Blue Dress in Front of a Fireplace” by Matisse, among the works recovered by the Rosenberg family; and Mr.
Ms. Diot, a young woman with limpid Rosenberg next to another Matisse.
blue eyes and chestnut curls piled atop
her head. It had once hung in Paul Ro-
senberg’s study in Floirac, near Bor- Ms. Auber declined to identify the cur- berg. “I told Christian it was looted and puted works and divide the proceeds.
deaux. The dealer rented the house as a rent holder of the work, except to say advised him to have nothing to do with Even the Rosenbergs have compro-
refuge from the Nazis in 1940. After the that the portrait is now in Switzerland. it,” Mr. Morgan said by telephone. mised in the past: In 1970, Alexandre
Rosenbergs fled France, the German But she gave a brief history of the work, Angry with Mr. Hans, Mr. von Ben- Rosenberg accepted a below-market
ambassador had the portrait seized, tracing it back to a Swiss family, who theim said he returned a full-size color value compensation payment for a
along with other items, and it wound up lived in Ascona, a town on Lake Maggio- reproduction the dealer had given him. looted Degas painting that had surfaced
in the Jeu de Paume, the Paris museum re near Italy. She said the family had “I really didn’t want to have anything to in Cologne, Germany.
the Nazis converted into a warehouse bought the portrait in Paris in 1942. do with it,” he said by telephone. “Hans Marianne Rosenberg said it makes no
for pictures plundered from Jews. Mr. Hans has said he later helped used me to try to get rid of this pastel.” sense to pay for the return of a looted
The family did not know the portrait’s them broker its sale in 1974 to the cur- Selling the portrait is difficult because work, especially when the holder has
whereabouts until 1987, when it turned rent holder. No subsequent sale seems it is listed on several international data- tried to sell it, knowing it was stolen.
up in the catalog of a Hamburg art to have occurred, despite the catalog bases of looted art. “I cannot understand on any level
dealer, Mathias Hans. Marianne’s listing in 1987. Mr. Marinello said he reached out to why a family that has been looted by the
mother, Elaine Rosenberg, spoke to Mr. But Mr. Marinello said he learned by Mr. Hans again in 2016, asking him to re- Nazis should have to pay to get its prop-
Hans on the phone, but the conversation chance that the dealer had tried to sell veal the name of the holder of the por- erty back,” Ms. Rosenberg said. “Are we
did not go well, said Christopher A. Ma- the portrait again in 2003. A German trait, but Mr. Hans again declined. So Mr. supposed to buy back what we own? We 2018 SUCCESSION H. MATISSE/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK
rinello, the founder of Art Recovery In- businessman, Christian von Bentheim, Marinello tried a new tack, writing to want our looted work back. Full stop.
ternational, based in London, which is told Mr. Marinello that he had been ap- the German Culture Ministry asking the There is no excuse for this behavior and a stolen work, it also stipulates that theft persuade the dealer to cooperate, to at
working with the family. proached by Mr. Hans and asked if he government to intervene to recover the this unwillingness to return this work, claims should be made within 30 years. least provide a name of the current hold-
Mr. Hans wanted the Rosenbergs to could help facilitate a discreet private portrait. A ministry official contacted which they know is looted.” And, after 10 years, the law recognizes er so that they could engage in direct ne-
buy back the pastel. Ms. Rosenberg re- sale of “Portrait of Mlle. Gabrielle Diot” Mr. Hans requesting that he reveal the But the family has no plans at this the possession rights of the current gotiations. But Mr. Marinello said the
fused, Mr. Marinello said, and when she for a price of about 3 million euros, or name, or contact details, of the con- time to file a lawsuit in an effort to re- holders unless it can be shown they German official told him the govern-
did, he said, Mr. Hans told her the por- about $4.6 million today. signor, Mr. Marinello said. cover the work because of the difficul- knew the work had been stolen when it ment could do no more.
trait would be returned to the consignor Mr. von Bentheim, who had no experi- Mr. Hans said his client wanted the ties involved. was purchased. “Ultimately, we would like to be rid of
and she would never get it back. ence in art dealing, said in an interview Rosenbergs to refund the 3.5 million “German law is not restitution- German law would apply, lawyers the conflicted Mathias Hans and prefer
Mr. Hans declined to be interviewed that he had asked Robert Morgan, an Swiss francs ($3.5 million) that the cli- friendly,” Mara Wantuch-Thole, a said, because the dealer, whose gallery to deal with the possessor or the pos-
for this article. But his colleague, Anne artist friend of his, to look into the pastel. ent had paid for the work in 1974. Berlin-based attorney who specializes is in Hamburg, is the only person cur- sessor’s appointed legal representa-
Auber, said in an email that Ms. Rosen- Mr. Morgan said he contacted a curator Jewish heirs of looted art have agreed in such cases, said. rently identified with the work. tive,” Mr. Marinello said. “We remain
berg had insulted Mr. Hans during the friend who quickly established that the in other cases to partially compensate While German law says even a good- The Rosenbergs had hoped pressure hopeful that he or she will come forward
call. work had been stolen from Paul Rosen- good-faith buyers, or to auction dis- faith purchaser cannot pass good title to from the German government would in the near future.”
culture
FROM LEFT: THE NEW YORK TIMES; ASSOCIATED PRESS; TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES
From left, Gustav Mahler, ranked by many people among the greatest composers; Ludwig van Beethoven, often put at or near the top of classical lists; and Edvard Grieg, who was the author’s favorite when he was a child.
travel
gan in 1987 with a set of five huts on the Overlooking the town of Gateway, Colo., along a recently opened bicycle trail linking Grand Junction, Colo., with Moab, Utah. The route is split between old paved highways and sections of dirt.
north face of the Sneffels Range in Col-
orado. Originally meant as an easy-to-
navigate route for intrepid skiers, the I opted to rent a Moots Routt 45 from a family of horses stood statuesque in the Store, where Joe was waiting, reading a in a high-altitude place like Colorado, is nine-mile ascent, in the cold, with the
huts with their do-it-yourself appeal Grand Junction vendor. knee-high grass. As I munched an apple paperback copy of Steinbeck’s “The the weather. On Day 3, after successfully likelihood of a storm breaking right over
soon were used by bikers, who take over We were set to go. admiring the scene, a raindrop fell on Pastures of Heaven.” Like a time cap- climbing 1,000 feet out of Paradox Val- me.
those same trails in the summer my knee; then I felt another on the back sule from the 1910s, this roadside depot ley, I hurtled down Highway 90, euphor- Joe pulled up 50 yards ahead, and
months. Today, the system commands a THE UNPREDICTABLE BACKCOUNTRY of my neck. had creaky floorboards and soda in ic to finally arrive at the Colorado-Utah when I rode up, he lowered the window
total of 16 huts, spread over hundreds of On the first morning, we left our motel in The sky was getting ready to open, glass bottles. (The storefront was used state line. We posed by the “Welcome to and stuck his head out. “Well?” he asked
square miles inside Uncompahgre Na- Grand Junction a little after 8, stopping and I still had another 30 miles to go. as a filming location for “Thelma & Lou- Colorado” sign and snacked on peanut halfheartedly, nodding toward the back
tional Forest. briefly at a Wal-Mart to buy the helmets The canyon was completely exposed, ise.”) My friend and I sat on the porch butter and jelly sandwiches we’d made seat. Begrudgingly, I packed up my bike
In May, just after this new trail offi- neither of us had remembered to bring. with no chance of shelter, or an escape and devoured a bag of chips while a Bi- that morning. and got in the car.
cially opened, I was one of the first bik- Dressed in biking shorts and long- route. Joe caught up with me near the chon Frise named Ziggy curled up in my Then, I got back on my bike, headed It’s a bittersweet feeling to give up
ers to attempt this challenging route, ac- sleeve tops, we climbed on our bikes, horse pond, but I coolly waved him on, lap. up Highway 46, and had a sense of fore- when you know your goal is unattain-
companied by my friend Joe, who left planning on covering roughly 55 miles either out of bravado or stupidity. boding as soon as I hit the saddle. The able. With a little more training, or some
halfway through the first day. (More on over seven hours. As the rain touched the earth, it un- SUDDENLY, THE END OF THE ROAD temperature was quickly dropping, the sunshine, I felt I could have tackled this
that later.) Well, that was the plan. On our ride leashed a strange panoply of smells: What’s impossible to control, especially sky was leaden, and ahead of me was a final haul into Utah.
Ahead of this trip, I had spoken with into the backcountry, which was a steep sweet sage, cinnamon, tree sap, wet
Kelly Ryan, a former ski patrol member haul, Joe started to feel the effects of the rock and an herbal, hay-like scent. Pick-
and the daughter of Joe Ryan, who high altitude almost immediately: the ing up speed, I yelled freely at the trees.
founded the San Juan Huts System in blazing sun and arduous uphill climb Every part of me was soaked. In the tu-
1987. According to Ms. Ryan, the Grand mult of the half-storm, I found myself to-
Junction-Moab route, though challeng- tally opened up and alive.
ing, is “beginner friendly.” While this The stars were as crisp as the
tour involves long days, the terrain itself lights on a pinball machine. ON THE MENU: FUSILLI WITH TUNA
is nothing a newbie — even someone
who’s never been on an overnight cy-
cling trip — can’t handle, she said. Plus,
the relative absence of cars on this route
had spooked him. So we decided on a
new plan: He would go back to the Toy-
Pulling off Highway 141 that first after-
noon, we rode down a driveway of red
dirt that led to a lush green meadow.
There, in the flickering shade of cotton-
INTERNATIONAL
makes things more manageable. Typi-
cally, busy highways represent a hazard
for road biking. “You’re more likely to
ota 4Runner rental we’d left in Grand
Junction, and shadow me as we made
our way to our first overnight stop, as
wood trees, was the hut. It was about the
size of two garden sheds and painted
pink. There was no shower, but the out-
LUXURY CONFERENCE
NOVEMBER 12–13, 2018
get hurt mountain biking, but you’re much of the route is accessible to both house (also pink) had an interesting set-
more likely to die road biking,” Ms. Ryan bikers and drivers. (Though not an ex- up. Built at the top of a staircase, and en-
said. pert biker myself, I ride every day in Los closed by large screened windows, the
This didn’t exactly inspire confidence, Angeles.) open-air toilet almost had the feel of a
HONG KONG
but then again, this wasn’t a road biking As I continued on, the weather was treehouse.
trip, per se. The route is split between becoming uncooperative. Huffing my The meadow surrounding the hut ran
old paved highways and sections of dirt, way up through the eastern entrance of to the base of a thousand-foot-tall red
and because of that, the route is techni- Unaweep Canyon, the sun was bright. rock pyramid — Colorado’s version of a
cally classified as a gravel grinder tour.
While mountain biking is often seen
as too dangerous, and road biking has a
reputation for being a little dull, gravel
By the time I got into the canyon’s pine-
and juniper-crested main thoroughfare,
clouds were darkening.
Nearing Unaweep Divide, the top-
skyscraper — which dominated the
landscape. There was a rushing creek,
too. Before dinner (fusilli pasta with red
sauce and some black olives and tuna),
WHAT’S NEXT:
grinders offer a middle way. Their tires
are thick, but more pressurized than
mountain bikes, and they are more sta-
ble in their frames. On a route like this,
most point of the canyon (elevation
7,048 feet), I passed a rambling farm-
house with a burned-out tractor in the
yard. Dogs barked at me periodically
Joe and I wandered over and stared at
the swirling green-brown eddy.
In the Bikers Bible, a 28-page docu-
ment emailed to travelers after the
THE NEW LUXURY
which involves long distances and
rolling landscape on some unpaved
roads, a gravel grinder can really shine.
through the cottonwood trees. The road
was smooth and relatively flat. At one
point, I stopped near a pond where a
booking is made (in it, there are instruc-
tions on everything from what clothes to
pack to how to use the propane tank),
smartphones are discouraged, out of re-
WORLD (DIS)ORDER
spect for other “hut mates” who might
be seeking an escape. We didn’t encoun- This November, Vanessa Hosted by:
ter another soul during our stay, but in Friedman and The New York
such an awe-inspiring place, the Times will bring together top
Vanessa Friedman Cédric Charbit
thought of checking my email or texts Fashion Director C.E.O.
C.E.O.s, policy makers,
never crossed my mind. The New York Times Balenciaga
entrepreneurs, celebrities
When I woke up in the middle of the
and thought leaders at the
night, responding to the call of nature, I
International Luxury
Speakers include: Michael Evans
strapped on my headlamp, stumbled President
outside, and then promptly switched it Conference in Hong Kong. Remo Ruffini Alibaba Group
off. Above me, the stars were as crisp Chairman and C.E.O.
and detailed as the lights on a pinball In these tumultuous times, Moncler S.p.A.
machine. I stood there in a trance before luxury’s decision makers are
Scott Malkin
recalling the real reason I’d come out. Founder and Chairman
The next morning, after departing the
facing challenges that continue Daniela Riccardi Value Retail P.L.C.
tiny town of Gateway, the road opened
to transform their industry — C.E.O.
up into a vast avenue of towering sand- from constant technological Baccarat
evolution to what’s next for
Joann Cheng
stone cliffs and scorching red earth — Chairman, Fosun
“road runner country,” as the locals call China, India and the West to Patrice Louvet Fashion Group and
it. the pervasive demand for President and C.E.O.
Parts of the route follow the Dolores Chairman, Lanvin
transparency and moral equity. Ralph Lauren
River, a tributary of the Colorado. The Corporation Principal Sponsor
water, which was recently melted snow,
was absolutely frigid. Still, that didn’t
Through interviews with
stop Joe and me from tearing off our powerful and influential figures,
clothes when we came to a suitable pull- Friedman and her colleagues
off, and wading in for a refreshing, icy, will explore how luxury
dip. A few trucks roared by on the high- companies can win in a world Headline &
way beside us, but mostly the traffic was where the only constant is Gala Dinner Sponsor