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MUSICAL GREATS CRICKET IN FRANCE BIKING THE OPEN ROAD

WHY WE RANK SPORT HELPS A TRIP THROUGH COLORADO


COMPOSERS MIGRANTS FIT IN VIA THE BACKCOUNTRY
PAGE 14 | CULTURE PAGE 3 | WORLD PAGE 15 | TRAVEL

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INTERNATIONAL EDITION | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018

The threat Divided U.S.


of Orbanism set to deliver
in America its verdict
on Trump
LOS LUNAS, N.M.

David Leonhardt Republicans are bracing


for loss of House, but they
remain hopeful on Senate
OPINION
BY ALEXANDER BURNS
BUDAPEST The technology conference AND JONATHAN MARTIN
held here last week could have taken
place in almost any other big city in The tumultuous 2018 midterm cam-
Europe or the United States. It fea- paign, shaped by conflicts over race and
tured executives from Google, Slack, identity and punctuated by tragedy, bar-
LinkedIn, Airbnb and more. I came to reled through its final days, as voters
talk about The New York Times’s prepared to deliver a verdict on the first
digital strategy, and I stayed for three half of President Trump’s term.
days to explore Budapest and inter- Republicans braced for losses in the
view people here. House and state capitals but were hope-
Like many other first-time visitors, I ful that they would prevail in Senate
was charmed. The city is full of 19th- races in areas where Mr. Trump is popu-
century architectural triumphs that lar.
loom over the Danube River and The lead-up to the election, which is
sparkle at night. In the old Jewish widely seen as a referendum on Mr.
Quarter, bars and Trump’s divisive persona and hard-line
Before the cafes bustle. There is policy agenda, has revealed deep
a growing tech in- strains in the president’s political coali-
midterms, dustry, with compa- tion and left him confined to campaign in
a trip to nies like Prezi, which a narrow band of conservative commu-
Hungary makes a non-boring TOM BRENNER FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES nities. Republicans’ intermittent focus
shows the version of Power- Democratic supporters cheering for Senator Claire McCaskill on Sunday in Florissant, Mo. Tuesday’s elections have revealed deep strains in President Trump’s political coalition. on favorable economic news, such as the
dangers Point. Friday report showing strong job
facing By now, you’ve growth, has been overwhelmed by Mr.
America. probably heard that Trump’s message of racially incendiary
Budapest is also nationalism.
home to one of the
world’s newly auto-
cratic governments, led by Viktor
Orban and his far-right Hungarian
nationalist party, Fidesz. These days,
The Taliban’s teenage assassin While Mr. Trump retains a strong grip
on many red states and working-class
white voters, his jeremiads against im-
migrants and his penchant for ridicule
have proved destabilizing, with the
Hungary is often mentioned alongside their peak six years ago, almost derailed party losing affluent whites and moder-
KANDAHAR, AFGHANISTAN
Russia and China. the NATO mission in Afghanistan. ates in metropolitan areas key to control
Which, as I reflected on my trip — The ambush last month also took the of the House.
and on the midterm campaign that I life of one of the nation’s most important Republicans have grown increasingly
returned home to — left me deeply In mere seconds, he killed bulwarks against the Taliban: Gen. Ab- pessimistic in recent days about holding
unnerved. dul Raziq, the police chief of Kandahar the House, with some concerned that
Orban is no Vladimir Putin or Xi
a top general and rattled Province. Democrats could take the chamber with
Jinping. He doesn’t put opponents in U.S.-Afghan relations In his rise from lowly border guard to a healthy majority. Polls show a number
jail or brutalize them. “There aren’t larger-than-life security chief in a little of incumbents lagging well below 50
secret police listening to us,” one Or- BY MUJIB MASHAL
over a decade, General Raziq built noth- percent and some facing unexpectedly
ban critic told me over dinner. Zselyke AND THOMAS GIBBONS-NEFF ing less than an empire in southern Af- close races in conservative-leaning dis-
Csaky of Freedom House, the democ- ghanistan. tricts.
racy watchdog, told me, “There is no Minutes before killing one of the most His status as the most powerful man In several diverse Sun Belt states
violence, not any kind of political vio- important generals in Afghanistan, the in the Taliban heartland was built on where Republicans had shown resil-
lence.” infiltrator made a final call to the Tal- brutal offensives against the insurgents, ience, such as Texas, Florida and Ari-
What Orban has done is to squash iban. an effectiveness that kept a lid on ethnic zona, their candidates have seen their
political competition. He has gerry- Though only a teenager, the assassin and tribal differences, and his reputa- numbers dip in polling as Mr. Trump has
mandered and changed election rules, managed to get hired as an elite guard, tion with the American military as an in- given up the unifying role that American
so that he doesn’t need a majority of slipping into government service with a dispensable ally who had kept Kanda- presidents have traditionally tried to
votes to control the government. He fake ID and no background check. har Province secure for years. play.
has rushed bills through Parliament It put him so close to the center of On the afternoon of Oct. 18, all of that Democrats are also in contention to
with little debate. He has relied on power in Afghanistan that he was just crumbled in a matter of seconds. retain or capture governorships in rust
friendly media to echo his message paces away from Gen. Austin S. Miller, The scramble to get the Americans belt states like Pennsylvania, Michigan
and smear opponents. He has stocked the commander of United States and BRYAN DENTON FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES out of the governor’s compound after and Wisconsin that were pivotal to Mr.
the courts with allies. He has overseen NATO forces, when he suddenly raised Gen. Abdul Raziq had waged brutal offensives against the Taliban as police chief of General Raziq was killed led to a brief Trump’s victory and fertile ground for
rampant corruption. He has cozied up his Kalashnikov and started firing in Kandahar Province. After he was killed, the Taliban went into a frenzy of celebration. firefight between American and Afghan Republicans for much of the last decade.
to Putin. To justify his rule, Orban has bursts. security forces, with the Americans Despite these worrisome signs, some
cited external threats — especially The attack was a nightmare scenario crashing through a gate and shooting at Republican leaders saw reason for
Muslim immigrants and George Soros, for American and Afghan security plan- barely missing General Miller and other relationship between Afghan and Amer- least one Afghan officer dead as they measured optimism. While Mr. Trump
the Jewish Hungarian-born investor — ners. officials standing nearby. ican forces. left, American officials said. said Friday that Republicans’ losing the
LEONHARDT, PAGE 9 It was a Taliban operation months in The infiltration and the chaotic Amer- After 17 years of war and the killings Now, in the days that have followed, House “could happen,” Representative
the making that succeeded in breaching ican escape last month — detailed in in- of dozens of coalition service members the Americans are being accused of Steve Stivers of Ohio, who leads the Re-
The New York Times publishes opinion a high-level meeting, killing a powerful terviews with more than a dozen people, by men in Afghan uniforms, the assault General Raziq’s death, rattling the rela- publican House campaign committee,
from a wide range of perspectives in Afghan general and a provincial intelli- including witnesses, family members underscored how susceptible the Amer- tionship between the allies. has continued to predict that his party
hopes of promoting constructive debate gence chief, wounding an Afghan gover- and officials who have seen investiga- icans and Afghans remain to the kind of Across Afghanistan, a rumor has will narrowly hold its majority. Republi-
about consequential questions. nor and an American general — and tive reports — have deeply shaken the infiltration and insider attacks that, at AFGHANISTAN, PAGE 4 ELECTION, PAGE 5

Delving into the science


behind Leonardo’s art
the mind of a genius. The show runs
FLORENCE, ITALY
through Jan. 20.
It’s one thing to pore over a page of
Leonardo’s experiments on the ratio of
Multimedia exhibition the volume of steam to water, quite an-
other to see his reflections come to life in
brings to life his insights animated form. That is the case, here, of
on the way things work his ruminations on the flight of birds, the
luminosity of the moon or the un-
BY ELISABETTA POVOLEDO
bounded nature of water, which is the
main object of Leonardo’s scrutiny.
As fascinating as Leonardo da Vinci’s The “Codex Leicester,” named after
musings on the nature of the world and an 18th-century owner, Thomas Coke,
what makes it tick are, the intellectual earl of Leicester, is a compendium of
and visual denseness of his treatises — ideas and investigations, and the expos-
which embrace a wide array of his inter- itory panels are a refrain of firsts: an in-
ests, including mechanics, botany, engi- strument that anticipated the modern
neering, mathematics, architecture and odometer; observations on the speed of
more — don’t always translate into cap- river flows and detailed descriptions of
tivating shows. waves and their impact; and a device to
The exhibition “Water as Microscope stay underwater for a long time, which
of Nature: Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Codex Leonardo did not describe in detail “be-
MEGHAN DHALIWAL FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES Leicester’” at the Uffizi Gallery in Flor- cause of the evil nature of men,” who
Jungle-to-table Indigenous Tacana hunters in Bolivia with caimans, among ence, Italy, on the other hand, offers the might use it to sink enemy ships and
the exotic ingredients South American chefs are exploring for their menus. PAGE 3 visitor the pleasure of losing oneself in LEONARDO, PAGE 2

Y(1J85IC*KKNPKP( +?!"!$!&!\
NEWSSTAND PRICES Issue Number
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2 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION

page two
He made Bruce Lee The science behind the art
and Jackie Chan stars LEONARDO, FROM PAGE 1
cause deaths, he wrote. One note Leon-
scenes helped the movie become the ardo wrote to himself reads “Make eye-
RAYMOND CHOW
1927-2018
most successful film shown in Hong glasses to see the moon larger.” The first
Kong to that point, breaking the box-of- known record of a telescope came
fice total set by “The Sound of Music.” around a century later.
BY AUSTIN RAMZY That success was followed by hits in- As usual, Leonardo’s musings were
cluding “Fist of Fury” and “The Way of written backward, starting from the
the Dragon.” right side of the page and moving to the
HONG KONG Raymond Chow, a Hong “In our early action films, we used ac- left, so that the words appeared normal
Kong film producer who thrust Bruce tors who knew little about fighting,” Mr. only when seen with a mirror. Theories
Lee and Jackie Chan into global stardom Chow told The New York Times in 1973. abound about why he did this: One sim-
while helping to transform the action “We had to use various camera tricks. ple explanation is that he was left-
movie genre, died on Friday in Hong But the audience can tell the difference. handed, and that writing this way didn’t
Kong. He was 91. It knows a real fighter when it sees one. smudge.
His death was confirmed in a state- That’s why Bruce Lee has been such a The codex now belongs to the Micro-
ment by Carrie Lam, Hong Kong’s chief hit.” soft co-founder and philanthropist Bill
executive. The statement did not list a After Mr. Lee’s death in 1973, Jackie Gates, who bought it at auction at
cause of death. Chan became a breakout star for Golden Christie’s in 1994 for $30.8 million. Until
A former journalist, Mr. Chow entered Harvest. He first imitated Mr. Lee, then last year, when the Church of Jesus
the film industry as a publicist in 1958, modified his style to develop a more ir- Christ of Latter-day Saints bought the
when he joined Shaw Brothers, a studio reverent, comedic style of kung fu film. printer’s manuscript of the Book of Mor-
that had a pioneering role in kung fu Mr. Chow pursued films in Hollywood mon for $35 million, it was believed to be
movies and other popular low-budget in the 1980s, and Golden Harvest the most expensive manuscript ever
films. But he quickly grew frustrated produced several American box-office sold.
with the quality of the studio’s output. hits, including “The Cannonball Run,” Next year is the 500th anniversary of
“It was hard to publicize a film that I with an ensemble cast that included Leonardo’s death, as well as the 25th an-
do not believe in,” he said in a 2011 inter- Burt Reynolds. niversary of Mr. Gates’s ownership of
view. “There are only so many lies I can Mr. Chow found small roles for Mr. the manuscript. “We felt the codex
tell. I can’t really exaggerate. Nobody Chan and the Hong Kong comedian Mi- needed to be part of the picture,” said
will believe us.” chael Hui in the movie, hoping to de- Fred Schroeder, the curator of the “Co-
So the studio founder, Run Run Shaw, velop the market for Chinese actors in dex Leicester” for Mr. Gates, and as
invited him to contribute his ideas on the United States. homecomings go, Florence was the logi-
scripts, and he soon became a producer. While his works were often critically cal site for that celebration. “It’s exciting
Mr. Chow longed for more freedom in his panned, Mr. Chow had an eye for box- for the codex to pay a visit to its birth-
work, and in 1970 he left to co-found his office success. In the 1990s, Golden Har- place,” Mr. Schroeder said.
own studio, Golden Harvest. vest produced the “Teenage Mutant The exhibition uses technological
Golden Harvest’s initial films did Ninja Turtles” series, based on earlier tools to better explain the codex “and
poorly against Shaw Brothers, which comic books and cartoons. The first film the extraordinary value of ideas it con-
dominated the local market. But Mr. took in more than $200 million. tains,” said the Leonardo expert Paolo
Chow then outbid his former employer Mr. Chow was born in Hong Kong on Galluzzi, who is the director of the
to sign Bruce Lee, a young actor and Oct. 8, 1927. He attended St. John’s Uni- Museo Galileo in Florence and the cura-
martial arts expert who had appeared in versity in Shanghai before returning to tor of the codex exhibition. The digital
the sidekick role of Kato on the Ameri- Hong Kong in 1949, when Mao Zedong animations, which were developed by a
can television series “The Green Hor- and the Communist Party took over team at the Museo Galileo, are a “way of
net.” China. He worked as a journalist for out- exploding his ideas,” he said.
Mr. Chow had seen Mr. Lee break lets including The Hong Kong Standard The exhibition’s “moral mission,” Mr.
boards in displays of powerful kicks and and Voice of America. Galluzzi added, is to “faithfully relate his
punches on Hong Kong television and The names of his survivors were not work” and not to misinterpret or force
learned that Shaw Brothers had been immediately available. the artist’s vision “to make Leonardo
unable to sign him to a film contract. His production company had a long the pioneer of everything.”
Golden Harvest offered him $15,000 run of success, but it stumbled after the Though his notebooks contain count-
for two films, along with a share of the 1997 Asian financial crisis, just as main- less inventions and intuitions that came
profits and greater say in the produc- land China’s film industry began to to life only centuries later, the exhibition
tion. Mr. Lee agreed, and Mr. Chow grow. He sold his stake in the company seeks to put them into context, “express
quickly flew his new actor to Thailand, in 2007 to the mainland businessman his thought correctly.”
where, in rough rural conditions, he Wu Kebo, who merged it with his own “This doesn’t mean diminishing his
filmed “The Big Boss” in 1971. entertainment group to create Orange work,” Mr. Galluzzi said, “it means en-
Mr. Lee’s intense aura and florid fight Sky Golden Harvest Entertainment. hancing it.”
Leonardo wrote much of the codex
from 1504 to 1508, when he was living in
Florence. An interactive map at the Uf-
fizi indicates where he spent time in the
city, painstakingly measuring the Arno
river, carrying out dissections at the
Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova and BILL GATES/BGC3, VIA UFFIZI GALLERY
studying the works of others, primarily “Studies on the Ashen Glow of the Moon,” from Leonardo Da Vinci’s scientific treatise “Codex Leicester” at the Uffizi Gallery.
at the library of the Convent of San
Marco, whose few remaining friars were
recently evicted. of the Magi,” exhibited again this year writings in conjunction with the three the world was much, much older than
With its three paintings by Leonardo after a five-year restoration. paintings,” he said. the Bible suggested.
that amply illustrate his “scientific ob- All three Leonardo paintings were Sections of the Leicester manuscripts Had he published his considerations,
servations on water,” the Uffizi was the moved to a new room in the Uffizi this subvert the Christian worldview of the he would undoubtedly have run afoul of
“right place for the exhibition,” the year, close to another refurbished room time, rooted in Genesis, the first book of the church. “Instead these were jottings
gallery’s director, Eike Schmidt, said in with works by Michelangelo and Ra- the Bible, which held that God had creat- he kept in his pocket,” Mr. Galluzzi said.
an interview. phael. ed the world and humans just a few Leonardo’s gloomy predictions for the
He described the “Baptism of Christ,” “Leonardo couldn’t have painted as thousand years before. future of the planet appear more proph-
a joint effort by Leonardo and his he did without his scientific observation Leonardo’s observations of fossils etic in the age of climate change.
teacher Andrea del Verrocchio, where of nature,” Mr. Schmidt said. The pres- begged to differ. “Part of the ‘Codex He contemplated that water would
the ripples of water around the feet of ence here of the “Codex Leicester,” Leicester’ is dedicated to a not explicit eventually erode mountains, submerg-
Christ and John the Baptist “fully show which is exhibited with pages from but clear polemic with Genesis,” said ing the entire planet under water. “And
Leonardo’s scientific mind.” Water in its other Leonardo treatises, like the “Co- Mr. Galluzzi, in particular with the ques- this would be the end of all terrestrial
STANLEY BIELECKI MOVIE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES various manifestations is also detailed dex Atlanticus,” the “Codex Arundel” tion “of the Great Flood.” Leonardo’s ob- creatures. Those are his words,” Mr.
Raymond Chow, center, on the set of “Enter the Dragon” in 1973 with Bruce Lee, right in Leonardo’s “Annunciation” and in the and the “Codex of the Flight of Birds,” “is servations of fossils and geological Galluzzi said. “He thinks that as life be-
and John Saxon. Mr. Chow’s film company co-produced the movie with Warner Bros. preparatory drawing for the “Adoration an opportunity for visitors to see his stratification had convinced him that gan, so it could end.”

Designer who dressed royalty Too much to see at the museum?


and commoners in Japan LONDON
name, Mr. Ashida tended to put himself
JUN ASHIDA
1930-2018
second and the customer first in his
work. His modest designs, and the Apartment residents say
shows at which he displayed them, fo-
Jun Ashida, a designer who dressed ev- cused on wearability over fanfare.
London viewing platform
eryday women and members of the Jap- From 1966 to 1976, Mr. Ashida was the is an invasion of privacy
anese monarchy in practical, sophis- personal designer for Empress Michiko
ticated silhouettes, died on Oct. 20 at his of the Imperial House of Japan, who was BY PALKO KARASZ
home in Tokyo. He was 88. crown princess at the time. He also
The death was announced by his dressed Crown Princess Masako for her The 10th-floor terrace of the Tate Mod-
daughter, Tae Ashida, in an Instagram wedding in 1993. ern art gallery in London has a 360-de-
post. In addition to his women’s wear out- gree view of the city, including some of
In designing his collections, Mr. put, Mr. Ashida designed uniforms for its most famous landmarks.
Ashida sought to imbue Western styles companies, including All Nippon Air- But since the museum’s 211-foot-tall
with a traditional Japanese aesthetic. wing, known as the Blavatnik Building,
He fashioned brocade suits in the image opened in 2016, another aspect of the
of gakuran schoolboy uniforms. He cut view has become well known to visitors.
gowns from white silk faille, a material Stroll around the enclosed walkway
sometimes used to make wedding kimo- and, at one point, you’ll be staring into
nos. “I look for a Japanese classic in the private lives of residents of luxury
Western design,” Mr. Ashida told The In- apartments in a neighboring glass-and-
ternational Herald Tribune in 2002. steel building that was completed in
“Now, you do not see many Japanese 2012.
women wearing kimonos. But I want to The owners of four apartments in the
put in the Japanese spirit by playing building, part of a development called
with sleeves and tie belts.” NEO Bankside, are less enamored of the
Mr. Ashida was born on Aug. 21, 1930, view.
in Kyoto, the youngest of eight children. THE YOMIURI SHIMBUN, VIA AP IMAGES And so they sued in 2017 claiming a
His interest in fashion began in his The Japanese fashion designer Jun “relentless” invasion of privacy.
teenage years, when an older brother Ashida in 2013. On Friday, a court began hearing their
returned from a trip to the United States case against the gallery. ANDY HASLAM FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

with garments unlike any the young Mr. They are seeking an injunction that Residents of the NEO Bankside apartments, left, are suing the Tate Modern over its 10th-floor viewing platform, right.
Ashida had seen before. ways, and dressed the Japanese na- would require the gallery either to re-
After World War II and the United tional team for the 1996 Summer strict access to parts of the terrace adja-
States occupation, Japan experienced Olympics in Atlanta. His contributions cent to their homes or to erect a screen. stagram to 1,027 followers,” according to unreasonably seeking to “deny to the tle sympathy for the apartment owners,
rapid economic growth that prompted to Japanese culture won him the Purple Their claim is playing out as an old- local media reports. The viewing ter- public the right to use the viewing plat- with one person writing on Twitter, “So
new consumer tastes. Shoppers were in- Ribbon Medal, an award for creative fashioned bricks-and-mortar battle at a race is a rare spot in London to offer a form for its intended purpose merely to this is what people with too much money
terested in buying American-style gar- achievement bestowed by the govern- time when global concerns about digital free elevated look at the city, which ex- give the claimants an unencumbered do with their time huh?”
ments, and Japanese manufacturers ment. privacy have taken center stage. plains its popularity with tourists. (A right to enjoy their own view.” This is not the first case in which
rushed to meet their demands. His daughter, Ms. Ashida, is also a de- By operating its viewing terrace, Tate ticket to the London Eye, the giant Fer- The gallery’s leadership has argued neighbors’ concerns have clashed in
But Mr. Ashida was interested in signer. Modern is subjecting the apartments ris wheel by the Thames, costs 25.20 since the opening of the terrace for a London’s real estate market.
handcrafting, not mass production. He Complete information on survivors “to an unusually intense visual scru- pounds, or around $30, and admission to simple solution: Have the neighbors In 2014, Boris Johnson, who was may-
studied with the artist and fashion de- was not immediately available. tiny,” Tom Weekes, a lawyer for the St. Paul’s Cathedral, formerly the tallest draw the blinds on their floor-to-ceiling or at the time, stepped in to broker a deal
signer Jun-ichi Nakahara, and in 1960 “I think it is part of my duty to keep claimants, told the High Court. building in the city, is £16.) windows or install curtains. for an apartment block near the well-
the department store Takashimaya that part of Japanese culture,” Tae Mr. Weekes said that one of the claim- Guy Fetherstonhaugh, a lawyer for But the owners of luxury apartments known nightclub Ministry of Sound.
hired him as a consulting designer. Ashida told Vogue.com in 2017. “We ants once counted 84 people pho- the Tate board of trustees, told the court with a river view, which typically go on The developer agreed to include noise
Three years later he introduced his first have technical people here who have tographing his building over a 90- that visitors came for the view, rather the market for more than £2 million, protection in the building, and prospec-
clothing brand. been training themselves for a long minute period, and “discovered that a than to gawk at the apartments. have rejected that option. tive residents signed away their right to
Although his company bears his time, perfecting each detail.” photo of himself had been posted on In- He said the apartment owners were People reacted to the lawsuit with lit- complain about the noise.
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THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 | 3

World

Hunters weighing caimans they had killed the night before in the Bolivian Amazon. Mixing a marinade with paiche, a freshwater fish that resembles a large carp. The chefs Marcelo Saenz, right, and Christian Gutierrez, preparing paiche.

For chefs, jungle-to-table is next big story At one meal, the chefs discovered a gi-
BOLIVIA DISPATCH
CACHICHIRA, BOLIVIA ant tapir — a plant-eating mammal
about the size of a pig with a short trunk
— roasting on a grill and helped them-
They trek into the Amazon selves to the ribs.
“I have never seen one dismembered
to find exotic ingredients this way,” said Mr. Barbón, licking his
for restaurants back home fingers. “It is truly delicious.”
Bernardo Resnikowski, a restaurant
BY NICHOLAS CASEY manager who wears luxurious sleeve
tattoos and moonlights as a D.J., later
The hunt began at nightfall under a cres- arrived with two Tacana men carrying
cent moon and with a chorus of frogs, machetes and a bowl of red, slightly fer-
which suddenly went silent when the ri- mented fruit, called kecho, which he
fles fired and the thrashing erupted. The shared with Ms. Taha and Mr. Barbón.
bodies were dragged onto the deck of “Not enough flesh to eat, but you
three boats: Six crocodilians were might blend them in a cocktail” was Ms.
landed one night and 14 the next. Some Taha’s verdict as she threw a handful
were nearly eight feet long, head to tail. into her mouth.
As gastronomy leaps from one trend By the time the party next saw the
to the next, the search for the next new firepit, there were no signs of the tapir.
thing has become a quest without end Instead, the giant river turtle had taken
for many chic restaurants. And the role its place, doomed to the grill with its
of the chef is changing, too: The greatest shell cracked open and stuffed with po-
cooks these days are also the greatest tatoes and chili peppers.
storytellers, not just serving up meals An old Tacana recipe book contains a
but also long yarns about the who, what litany of ways to make peta, their name
and where of the origins of their ingredi- for the creature, but the chefs seemed
ents. doubtful about the taste of the gooey in-
Which is why I was with some of the nards, chewy skin and orphaned paws
finest chefs in the Andes at Lake Col- sitting atop rice.
orada in northwestern Bolivia, home of “This kind of meat wouldn’t be legal to
the spectacled caiman, a relative of the sell anyway, though the Tacanas are al-
alligator. lowed to serve it in their villages,” Ms.
Once every few years, a group of Taha explained.
cooks and owners from acclaimed “Who said we would sell it to you if it
restaurants in Bolivia, Argentina and were legal?” barked Eduardo Cart-
Peru hire a river boat to take them to agena, one of the village leaders, evi-
places unlisted in the Michelin Guide dently enjoying his share of the turtle.
and where no food critic has likely ever As night settled, the Tacanas were
dared to tread. back on Lake Colorada. I sat in the back
Here, at the lake and along the Beni of a leaky canoe as Rene Rubén Lurici
River in the Bolivian Amazon basin, the Aguilara, a sharpshooter, stood at the
restaurateurs were hunting for some- bow, a flashlight wedged between his
thing new to cook. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MEGHAN DHALIWAL FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES chin and his shoulder, his rifle scanning
They said I could join them on this ad- Marsia Taha leading a line of fellow chefs through a canyon in the Madidi National Park in the Bolivian Amazon, where they were searching for something new to cook. the surface of the water.
venture, and on an October day I went A pair of caiman eyes surfaced, glow-
ashore with the chefs at a village of the ing gold in the light of the torch. The
indigenous Tacana people, whose Or the tale of cacao beans that are “These are the things we are looking to recipe calls for blanching the fungus in “Meat was always, if you will, on the hunter took aim. Not quick enough. The
caiman-hunting season had just begun. picked in the fall from trees that grow buy.” water before it is served. He tore off a table as another resource that would al- caiman submerged, submarine-like.
The Tacanas had sent a delegation wild around the village of Carmen del The stories flow both ways, and some- piece and we chewed away, savoring the low them to get more out of every ani- It was the lucky one.
ahead to greet their visitors: A notary Emero and that are composted in an un- times it’s the outsiders who teach the lo- spicy aftertaste while also hoping the mal,” said Rob Wallace, a director at the By 1 a.m., our boat was heavy with the
who takes caiman measurements, the dergrowth of strangler figs and jaguar cals about what’s edible in this jungle. chef was correct in the identification of Wildlife Conservation Society in Bolivia, weight of the bodies of five large rep-
village mayor who cuts fillets and two droppings. “Callampa,” said Mauricio Barbón, his mushroom. a nongovernmental group that helped tiles.
sharpshooters chewing huge wads of Or the story of tuyo tuyo, the larvae of the head chef at Amaz, a restaurant in As for the caimans in the lake, they the Tacanas develop the conservation While Gustu has been selling the
coca leaf, which helps them stay awake a beetle that lives in an Amazonian palm Lima, Peru, that specializes in Amazo- are as much an experiment for conser- plan for the caiman. caiman meat for some time, Amaz, the
at night as they spot the caiman’s eyes tree, long a delicacy in these parts and nian ingredients. He was pointing to a vationists as the chefs. A management The hunt, which goes on for weeks in restaurant in Lima, has had trouble get-
with flashlights from a canoe. more recently served as an appetizer at fallen log with shelves of a flesh-colored program sets strict limits on how many October, was a family affair. Mothers ting a license to import the meat to Peru.
The caiman hunt would not be the Gustu, a famed restaurant in Bolivia’s fungus growing on it. may be hunted, of what size and when helped skin the meat as a baby swung in But over breakfast Mr. Barbón, the
only tale for the chefs on this trip for ex- capital, La Paz. “We’ve never tried it before,” said an during the year. The Tacanas have a hammock nearby. Others in the village Amaz chef, couldn’t help but daydream
otic new foods. “We are seeing things hanging in your intrigued Javier Duri Matias, a young learned they can earn far more selling played games with a large, luckless about how he might serve up caiman
Consider the big fish story to be told kitchens, foods you might not think peo- Tacana leader who was showing us certified pelts for export than they made river turtle that lay on its backside, glum meat one day for his customers, who
about the paiche, a freshwater monster ple in cities would be interested in,” Mar- through the forest. when the hunting was uncontrolled. and unable to right itself. have included the celebrity chef Antho-
that resembles a carp but is far larger sia Taha, the head chef at Gustu, said The fungus looked almost exactly like Now, the clan is also selling the flesh In the village, caiman was not the only ny Bourdain.
and prehistoric-looking. one night to the elders in the village. an ear. Mr. Barbón explained that his to these enterprising chefs. meat on the menu. “We would try to fry it,” he said.

An un-French sport helps migrants get settled in France


France is not exactly known for stan. In 2017, Afghanistan was the sec- ance. Xenophobic messages popped up
ST.-OMER, FRANCE
cricket, a sport played primarily in the ond most common country of origin for on social media when the town’s mayor,
former British Empire. It hardly figures asylum seekers in France, with 6,000 of François Decoster, said the club could
BY ELIAN PELTIER
in the national sports pantheon, with a total 100,000 requests. The organiza- build a cricket ground on an unused plot
1,800 cricket players in some 50 French tion accommodated 2,230 migrants in of land on the edge of the town. Some
The players erupted in joy, dancing and clubs, compared with 2.2 million regis- the town in 2017, up from 300 in 2013. posts threatened to damage the site and
shouting in Pashto, celebrating their tered soccer players. Yet with the influx Many of the young Soccs players went others spread a rumor that a mosque
second victory in a regional cricket tour- of migrants from Afghanistan, the num- through the center. would be built there.
nament. It might have been a familiar ber of cricket teams in northern France Complaints about Soccs seem to have
scene in parts of Afghanistan or Paki- has grown to nine from two. tapered, but so far the team has not gen-
stan, but it was far less so here in north- The Soccs are among them. In sum- “Whenever young Afghans erated much local support. Only a few
ern France. mer 2016, Mr. Ahmadzai and other Af- arrive in St.-Omer, one of the dozen people attended the final, many of
The St.-Omer Cricket Club Stars, ghans were playing cricket with a home- first things they ask is where them volunteers or acquaintances of the
known as Soccs, had just won a tourna- made ball in a public park in St.-Omer club’s managers. Hours later, when the
ment on their home turf, a new cricket when a local businessman who was out
they can play cricket.” victorious players honked horns and
field next to a cow pasture. For their cap- running, Christophe Silvie, stopped to waved French flags as they circled the
tain, Javed Ahmadzai, however, the ask them about the game. A few months “I feel like I’ve grown up so much town’s central plaza, most stared at
sweetest triumph lay elsewhere. later, Mr. Silvie and Mr. Ahmadzai here, and I know the people, so I want them, intrigued but unaware of what
“The best victory is off the field,” said founded the club with another volunteer those titles to be like a gift for St.-Omer,” they were celebrating.
Mr. Ahmadzai, 32, a stonemason who ar- living nearby, Nicolas Rochas. Abdulwali Akulkhil, a 17-year-old Soccs “We’ve got prizes, compliments and
rived in France from Afghanistan in The team practiced in a gymnasium player from Afghanistan who once lived promises, but many players wonder
2005, “when we teach cricket to children MAURICIO LIMA FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES and won a first tournament. Then an- in the center, said of the team’s victories. why, after a second title, there isn’t more
in local schools and they won’t let us Players and fans of the St.-Omer Cricket Club Stars. The club has helped refugees from other. William Gasparini, a professor of soci- local enthusiasm,” said Mr. Rochas, the
leave, or tell their parents, ‘You see, Afghanistan and Pakistan integrate into the community, but it has not always been easy. Today, some 30 players from St.-Omer ology at the University of Strasbourg club’s vice president.
Mom, migrants aren’t all mean.’” and surrounding areas, ages 15 to 33, who specializes in sports, said that team In 2017, the club received a European
Bringing cricket to life in St.-Omer is have helped turn the town into a center activities could indeed be a springboard Citizen’s Prize, awarded each year by
about far more than sports for Mr. Ah- camps in her attacks. Her message was have decided to stay in St.-Omer. They of cricket excellence. (In reality, there for integration, providing connections the European Parliament to citizens or
madzai and his teammates. It is an op- well received in the region, and in the study, work or seek jobs and, in the case was little suspense in the recent final: far beyond the field. organizations that promote cross-bor-
portunity to be part of the community, to first round of presidential voting last of some Soccs players, hope that their The club has two teams, and both beat “Managers of amateur clubs are often der cooperation and understanding. But
be thought of as local champions rather year, Ms. Le Pen received more votes in sport will help them establish them- their rivals in the regular league and the local businessmen or people who are it still lacks the resources and volun-
than just as foreigners. St.-Omer than any other candidate. (She selves in the town of 16,000 people. St.- playoffs. So the club’s first team played well connected in the area, so it gives the teers it would need to play in France’s
That hasn’t always been easy. During won 39 percent of the town’s vote in the Omer has sheltered more than 5,600 the second in that final match.) migrants some useful social capital,” he national cricket league, as its victories
the European migration crisis of 2015, second round compared with 33.9 per- since 2015, most of them in a center for “Cricket has helped the players gain said. at the regional level qualify it to do.
refugees hoping to reach Britain gath- cent nationally.) underage refugees. priceless self-confidence and fight lone- Mr. Rochas, the team vice president, Perhaps even more critical is the need
ered in squalid camps in northern Two years after the government “Whenever young Afghans arrive in liness and isolation,” said Mr. Rochas, who is known among the players as Big to attract local players, some team
France, living in treacherous conditions cleared the Jungle, in October 2016, St.-Omer, one of the first things they ask the vice president of Soccs, who Brother, has helped several get into members said. So far, a doctor living in
in places like the “Jungle” in Calais, less there are still frequent police raids on is where they can play cricket,” said watched the final in September with his training programs in farm trucking and St.-Omer is the only French-born player.
than 30 miles north of St.-Omer. migrant camps, and the lives of many Jean-François Roger, the regional direc- two young children. “It’s more than a mechanics. He also helped another play- “We can’t only play among foreigners.
Marine Le Pen, the leader of the far- seem to be in limbo. The number of mi- tor of France Terre d’Asile, a state- club — we are now like a family.” er, who speaks five languages and wants We need new French recruits,” said
right, anti-immigrant party formerly grants in the Calais area has since funded organization that helps refugees. For years, St.-Omer was the only town to become a diplomat, get an internship Tazim Abbas, a 19-year-old player from
known as the National Front, argued dropped to 400 from 8,000. Many, includ- “Soccs gives them a framework. It helps in the region with a France Terre d’Asile in the French Parliament. Pakistan. “Otherwise, who will keep the
that the country had been hurt by “mas- ing some who once lived in the Jungle them move forward and build some- center for underage refugees, most of Yet, for all the progress on and off the club running when I have a job and a life
sive immigration,” and often cited the and hoped to cross the English Channel, thing here.” whom came from Eritrea and Afghani- field, Soccs players have faced resist- here?”
..
4 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION

world

Teenage attacker disrupts U.S.-Afghan trust


AFGHANISTAN, FROM PAGE 1
spread that the United States must have
been behind the killing of General Raziq.
That rumor began immediately at the
scene of the attack and spread to social
media pages, the streets and even
among the country’s top leaders.
In a private meeting, former Presi-
dent Hamid Karzai told the American
ambassador, John Bass, that most of the
country believed that the Americans as-
sassinated Mr. Raziq at Pakistan’s be-
hest, according to American officials.
Just two days after the attack, an Af-
ghan soldier was reported to have
opened fire on NATO forces after an ar-
gument over the killing of General
Raziq.
Aside from airstrikes, American
troops largely retreated into a defensive
posture in the weeks after the attack.
Joint operations were cut back, and in-
teractions between officials were
mostly relegated to phone calls and
heavily guarded meetings as the Ameri- MUJIB MASHAL/THE NEW YORK TIMES

can-led mission put in place new securi-


ty protocols, American officials said.
The attack took place at the Kandahar tended to the wounded, who included Raziq’s predecessors as police chief
governor’s compound, where American the Kandahar governor and Brig. Gen. were killed on the job.
and Afghan officials were meeting to Jeffrey Smiley, the commander of Amer- General Raziq was ruthless in his
discuss security for the nation’s elec- ican forces in southern Afghanistan. pushback, personally leading opera-
tions last month. An Afghan guard was heard shouting tions that dealt heavy casualties to the
General Raziq had reduced his ap- that the Americans had fired at General Taliban. Human rights groups accused
pearances at the compound in recent Raziq, according to American officials. him of torture and extrajudicial killings,
months and hunkered deeper into his They say the guard may have been a including of tribal rivals. But as he es-
own palace, partially because he barely KANDAHAR GOVERNOR’S OFFICE second infiltrator trying to stoke anger tablished his grip in recent years and
escaped an attack last year by a Taliban Above, Gen. Abdul Raziq, center right in Western clothes, moments before he was killed by a Taliban infiltrator. The attacker missed and deflect blame. turned to national politics, officials de-
bomber who killed and injured a room Gen. Austin S. Miller, front left, the commander of American and NATO forces in Afghanistan. General Raziq became an overnight After General Miller, other American scribed him as more disciplined and
full of V.I.P.’s. national martyr, with posters of him at a store in the city of Kandahar, above right, and his photo on the arm of a police officer, below. commanders and some of the wounded cautious.
He had also been busy with presiden- departed on the helicopters, members of General Raziq’s death sent the Tal-
tial politics and was likely using his con- the American ground convoy tried to iban into a frenzy of celebration, cap-
tact network to help in efforts to estab- where General Miller’s pair of Black make their way out of the governor’s tured on videos circulating on social me-
lish peace talks with the Taliban. Hawks would arrive to take him to Ka- palace to their base at Kandahar Air- dia accounts. At the central prison in Ka-
He had flown to Kabul and Dubai and bul. field. bul, dozens of Taliban inmates danced to
Europe for discussions. “My hat does se- Pomegranates had come into season an improvised group chant: “O, they
curity, I do politics,” he had joked. in Kandahar, and the governor had killed Raziq! In Kandahar, they killed
Ghorzang Afghan, a longtime assist- cases of them as gifts for his guests. “This Raziq martyred 2,800 Raziq!” (Song and dance were forbid-
ant to General Raziq, said his boss, who Many of the guards, including the gun- people, without a court and den when the Taliban controlled Af-
was attending his first large meeting af- man, were carrying cases of the fruit as justice, and buried them in the ghanistan.)
ter several days of illness, had seemed the group made its way to the helipad. “This Raziq martyred 2,800 people,
worried the day of the attack. He had re- Mr. Mohammed moved to the front of
sands of Kandahar.” without a court and justice, and buried
ports of threats, but he could not pin the group, put his case of pomegranates them in the sands of Kandahar as their
them down specifically. down and suddenly raised his weapon. They clashed with Afghan forces at mothers still wait,” a Taliban official,
“He asked us to pay special attention He trained the assault rifle on General the palace gates and exchanged fire. Mawlawi Abdul Ghafoor, told a packed
and get our guards up on all the towers,” Raziq, who was about five feet from him, One of the Afghan guards was shot gathering of Taliban in Quetta, Pakistan,
Mr. Afghan said. and fired a first burst of four shots. Then, dead by an American gunner while the where the group’s leaders are based.
During the meeting with provincial he sprayed a second burst toward those vehicles rammed through the gate, Af- “The Talib who tore a hole in Raziq’s
and American officials, a young Afghan next to General Raziq, including Gen- ghan and American officials said. The chest — may God unite us with him in
guard sat at the entrance of the confer- eral Miller, before being shot by one of convoy was attacked one more time at a heaven. And may God unite Raziq with
ence room. the Americans. As he went down, more traffic circle, according to American offi- his Scott Miller.
American officials described him as bullets from every direction rained on cials. “One of our leaders was saying he
more reserved than the rest of the him. In Kandahar, the security of one of wished Scott Miller was also gone. I
guards. He carried two Kalashnikovs — “The whole thing probably didn’t last most critical provinces in Afghanistan said, ‘Why are we so greedy?’ I wouldn’t
one slung across his chest and one be- longer than 10 seconds,’’ said Massoud was immediately cast into question with have been as happy if 500 Americans
hind his back. MUJIB MASHAL/THE NEW YORK TIMES Akhundzada, the custodian of a reli- the death of General Raziq, who held to- were killed as I am that Raziq is killed.”
The other guards knew him as Gulb- gious shrine in Kandahar, who was steps gether by force of personality a network General Raziq became an overnight
uddin. But his real name, American offi- away. that outstripped the capabilities of the national martyr of a battered nation. His
cials said, was Raz Mohammed, and had been a guard of the governor for Mr. Mohammed made a final call to One of General Raziq’s armored vehi- central Afghan government anywhere picture is on billboards in roundabouts
about six months before the attack he nearly a year, vouched for him, helping Pakistan, either five or 15 minutes be- cles sped to the scene, splashed red with outside Kabul, the capital. and on windows of bakeries. His grave,
had trained with the Taliban in Pakistan. him to skip a background check. fore the attack, according to two differ- blood and crushed pomegranates, to When General Raziq was made police just outside the governor’s compound
After the attack, the insurgents put out a “He was quiet — he would rarely say a ent accounts by officials, and he spoke pick him up and rush him to the hospital. chief of Kandahar in 2011, while in his where he was killed, has already be-
video of his training, including target word,” said Mohammed Nasim, one of for about two and a half minutes to a Tal- Their weapons drawn, General Miller early 30s, the Taliban were at the city come a shrine.
shooting. the governor’s guards who shared the iban commander responsible for lead- and the other Americans tried to find gates.
Sometime in August, he had arrived barracks with him. “But Basir Ahmad ing suicide attacks. cover. They called for medevac helicop- In fact, they would frequently grab Mujib Mashal reported from Kandahar,
in Kandahar and enlisted as an elite would always be on his phone.” (Mr. Ah- When the meeting was over, the digni- ters as they tried to secure the area. government employees from the heart and Thomas Gibbons-Neff from Wash-
guard of the provincial governor. mad fled the compound 30 minutes be- taries made their way behind the com- Tracer rounds landed from several di- of the city and take them to a kangaroo ington. Taimoor Shah contributed re-
One of his cousins, Basir Ahmad, who fore the shooting, officials said.) pound to a helicopter landing pad, rections. When things got quieter, they court on the outskirts. Two of General porting from Kandahar.

Called to serve, Utah town’s mayor always answered


enlisted, each in a different branch of the
NORTH OGDEN, UTAH
armed forces.
Major Taylor’s body was scheduled to
arrive at Dover Air Force Base in Dela-
Major in National Guard, ware on Monday. Members of his family
and Utah National Guard representa-
on leave from office, killed tives were expected to be on hand.
by insider in Afghanistan “Utah weeps for them today,” Lt. Gov.
Spencer J. Cox wrote on Facebook after
BY JULIE TURKEWITZ receiving word of the major’s death.
“This war has once again cost us the
The call had come again. Brent Taylor, best blood of a generation.”
the mayor of North Ogden and a major When Major Taylor left North Ogden
in the Utah National Guard, would be in January, hundreds of residents lined
going to Afghanistan for his fourth de- the street to see him off, and the local po-
ployment. lice gave him an escort.
He told his constituents about it on “Right now there is a need for my ex-
Facebook in January, leaning into the perience and skills to serve in our na-
camera to explain that he had been tion’s long-lasting war in Afghanistan,”
called to serve his country “whenever he wrote at the time, adding that his
and however I can” and that he would be work would fulfill President Trump’s or-
gone for a year, as part of a team helping der to expand the capabilities of the Af-
to train an Afghan Army commando bat- ghan forces.
talion. “Service is really what leadership KRISTIN MURPHY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES Rather than disappear into a war
is all about,” he told them. Maj. Brent Taylor, left, in a picture he shared on Facebook in April from the mountains of Afghanistan. Right, Major Taylor’s sister-in-law spoke to reporters outside his home in zone, Major Taylor kept up a steady
He said goodbye to his wife, Jennie, North Ogden, Utah. “We are overwhelmed with heartache but not regret,” she said. “In our view there is not a whole lot of room for anger.” stream of Facebook posts while he was
and their seven children, and turned deployed, connecting his community to
over his municipal duties to his friend a conflict that is off the radar of many
Brent Chugg. “You need to keep safe,” “We are overwhelmed with heartache by temporarily ceding authority to a hands-on leader and careful listener, All but a few large bases have been Americans.
Mr. Chugg told him. “I will,” Major Tay- but not regret,” Ms. Taylor’s sister, surrogate. someone who would be seen in the closed, and the main role of the remain- In what turned out to be his final pub-
lor replied. Kristy Pack, said on Sunday. Even North Ogden is a middle-class suburb streets before dawn to direct snowplows ing American troops is to advise and lic post, on Oct. 28, he tapped out a mes-
He did not make it home. Major Tay- though Major Taylor died in a suspected of about 19,000 people north of Salt Lake on stormy days. train Afghan forces, not fight the Taliban sage about the recent Afghan election.
lor, 39, was killed on Saturday in an in- insider attack, Ms. Pack said, “in our City at the foot of the Wasatch Range. On Mr. Chugg said that as mayor, Major themselves. “It was beautiful to see over 4 million
sider attack, apparently by one of the view there is not a whole lot of room for Sunday, residents rose at dawn to carry Taylor was dogged in his pursuit of city The change in mission has also Afghan men and women brave threats
people he was there to help. anger.” American flags on towering poles improvements, building an amphithe- changed the mix of troops who are in and deadly attacks to vote in Afghani-
The United States Defense Depart- Ms. Taylor now faces the task of rais- through the foggy streets, driving them ater, a public works building and new harm’s way. The Americans who are stan’s first parliamentary elections in
ment did not say right away who had ing the couple’s children: Megan, 13; into the cold ground along the road to roads. If other city officials had been sat- training Afghan troops are often older, eight years,” he wrote. “Many Ameri-
been killed in the incident. But the news Lincoln, 11; Alex, 9; Jacob 7; Ellie, 5; City Hall. isfied with the status quo, he said, “Not higher-ranking and more experienced can, NATO allies, and Afghan troops
that it was Brent Taylor was soon all Jonathan, 2; and Caroline, 11 months. Then they dispersed to the many Mor- Mayor Taylor.” than before. have died to make moments like this
over Utah, relayed in expressions of re- At a news conference at the Utah Na- mon chapels in the town, where they A small memorial began to form on And those are the troops who, being possible.”
morse by politicians and civic leaders. tional Guard headquarters outside Salt bowed their heads as their leaders Sunday outside City Hall, below a soggy surrounded by armed Afghans, tend to Then he turned to his own country.
In a nation already torn by a heated Lake City, Gov. Gary R. Herbert said he called on “brothers and sisters” to pray American flag lowered to half-staff. One face the biggest risk from insider at- “As the USA gets ready to vote in our
midterm election, a synagogue mass knew Major Taylor personally, calling for Brother Taylor and his family. It hap- woman, Deborah Eddy, 63, dropped off a tacks from soldiers or police in uniform, own election next week, I hope everyone
shooting and high-profile bomb scares, him “the personification of love of God, pened to be a Fast Sunday, when Mor- bright yellow lily in a flowerpot. An- a persistent threat in the country. back home exercises their precious
Major Taylor’s death and the wounding family and country.” mons skip meals and donate food to the other, Judy Viskoe, 36, stood by, grip- Nearly half of the American combat right to vote,” he wrote. “And that
of another service member in the same Governor Herbert said he knew that hungry. At one service, somber boys in ping a black umbrella. deaths in Afghanistan this year have whether the Republicans or the Demo-
attack sent up a fresh wave of conster- some friends had tried to persuade Ma- crisp white shirts circled the pews with “I cried all day yesterday,” Ms. Viskoe come in suspected insider attacks. crats win, that we all remember that we
nation. It was a brutal reminder of a 17- jor Taylor not to return to Afghanistan, the sacrament. said. “I don’t politically align with him. Together, those trends have led to a have far more as Americans that unites
year-old war that has carved gaping arguing that he had done enough for his “I just don’t know of a finer man,” said He’s a Republican. But I noticed in his steady climb in the average age and us than divides us. ‘United we stand, di-
holes in communities across the coun- country. Clark Skeen, a resident of North Ogden. running of this town that he treated ev- rank of American casualties. vided we fall.’”
try, with no end in sight. But Major Taylor wanted to go, the Major Taylor, who grew up in Arizona, eryone with respect, and he listened, Since the United States draft ended in He concluded: “God Bless America.”
Major Taylor’s death hit particularly governor said, and had his wife’s sup- enlisted in the military after the terror- and he didn’t bring his politics into the 1973, it has also become increasingly
hard in Utah, where a widely shared port for the decision, because he loved ist attacks of Sept. 11, 2001. So did his five mix. He’s just unlike any other mayor common for siblings to serve in the mili- Contributing reporting were Fahim Abed
Mormon faith binds many of its three the people of Afghanistan and thought brothers. Before his last tour, he had I’ve ever experienced.” tary, like Major Taylor and his brothers. and Mujib Mashal from Kabul, Afghani-
million residents in a way that is rare for he could do some good there. served twice in Iraq and once in Afghan- The number of American troops in Af- Researchers say that having a parent or stan; Dave Philipps from Colorado
the modern era. On Saturday, when Mr. A Utah law permits elected officials istan. ghanistan has fallen to fewer than 14,000 sibling in the military increases the like- Springs, Colo.; Thomas Gibbons-Neff
Chugg arrived at the home of Jennie who belong to the Reserves or the Na- He joined the City Council in 2009, in 2018, from about 100,000 in 2011, when lihood that someone will join up, and so from Washington; and Jennifer Dobner
Taylor, they embraced and she began to tional Guard, like Major Taylor did, to re- was chosen as mayor in 2013 and was re- American forces were still officially en- does coming from a large family. This from Draper, Utah. Jack Begg contribut-
sob. tain their civilian posts while deployed elected in 2017, building a reputation as a gaged in a combat mission there. spring, quadruplets from Michigan all ed research.
..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 | 5

world

Bill Clinton, from rock star to pariah


lationships with so many strategists, do-
LITTLE ROCK, ARK.
nors and activists. Few Democrats were
eager to talk publicly about Mr. Clinton’s
future role in the party. Though they are
In an election shaped reluctant to say it out loud, Mr. Clinton’s
political exile is an open secret in Demo-
by women, allegations cratic circles.
have tarnished his legacy At a rare public appearance by Mrs.
Clinton recently in South Florida to ben-
BY LISA LERER efit Donna Shalala’s House campaign,
Ms. Shalala — a former Clinton adminis-
When a Republican state legislator in tration cabinet secretary — lavished
Arkansas pushed last year to rename praise on the Democrats’ 2016 presiden-
the Bill and Hillary Clinton National Air- tial nominee, calling her “wonder wom-
port in Little Rock, Clarke Tucker stood an” and “one of the great political lead-
up for the former president. ers of our times.” When asked whether
“The argument was that the people of she would invite Mr. Clinton to cam-
Arkansas don’t support the Clintons,” paign for her, Ms. Shalala passed on the
said Mr. Tucker, a Democratic member idea: “He has a great political mind. I ac-
of the state House of Representatives. tually haven’t talked to him myself.”
“My thought at the time was, well, the
people of Arkansas voted for Clinton
eight times.” “I’m not sure that with all
But now, as the Democratic nominee the issues he has, he could
in the tightest congressional race in this really be that helpful to
state, Mr. Tucker is happy for the former
president and his wife to remain a plane
the candidates.”
ride away. Mr. Clinton, who was gover-
nor and attorney general of Arkansas, Mr. Clinton’s absence from the cam-
was once a near-ubiquitous presence paign trail is all the more striking given
helping Democrats in tough races back the number of candidates with close ties
home, but the former president hasn’t to the Clinton legacy. Beyond Mr. Espy,
been asked to appear on the trail for Mr. there’s Ms. Shalala, also a former presi-
Tucker. dent of the Clinton Foundation, and
There are no plans for him to do so. Nancy Soderberg, a representative to
Nor, for that matter, to appear publicly the United Nations and a White House
with any Democrat running in the national security aide under Mr. Clinton.
midterm elections. Ms. Soderberg is also running for a
“Every election is about the future,” House seat in Florida.
Mr. Tucker said, as he drove to a cam- A former Clinton speechwriter, Josh
paign fund-raiser in Little Rock. Gottheimer, is running for re-election to
As Democrats search for their iden- a House seat in New Jersey. J.B. Pritz-
tity in the Trump era, one aspect has be- ker, the Democratic nominee for gover-
come strikingly clear: Mr. Clinton is not nor of Illinois, is a family friend and, like
part of it. In the final days before the a number of other candidates across the
midterm elections, Mr. Clinton found country, supported Mrs. Clinton’s presi-
himself in a kind of political purgatory, PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREA MORALES FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES dential campaign.
unable to overcome past personal and Clarke Tucker, center, a Democratic nominee for Congress from Arkansas, defended the Clintons in a political skirmish last year but is keeping the ex-president at arm’s length. While people close to Mr. Clinton say
policy choices now considered anath- candidates have asked for his advice
ema within the rising liberal wing of his privately, at least a few rejected public
party. ocrats have reassessed the party’s sup- may serve as a warning sign for others help. Mr. Clinton’s offers to campaign
The former president, once such a port for Clinton’s behavior in light of considering their political futures in the last year for Ralph Northam, the gover-
popular political draw that he was nick- changing views about women, power party. Joseph R. Biden Jr., the former nor of Virginia, were rebuffed. Andrew
named his party’s “explainer-in-chief,” and sexual misconduct. vice president, has been struggling to Gillum, the Democratic nominee for
has only appeared at a handful of pri- “It was an abuse of power that should- address his role in leading the 1991 Clar- governor of Florida, did not ask the
vate fund-raisers to benefit midterm n’t have happened, and if the Clintons ence Thomas-Anita Hill hearings. Mi- president to campaign for him, after Mr.
candidates, according to people close to can’t accept that fact 20 years later, it’s chael R. Bloomberg, the former New Clinton called with congratulations on
him. hard to see how they can be part of the York City mayor, recently drew criticism his primary win. In August, the New
He added one more recently, headlin- future of the Democratic Party,” said Ms. for questioning the #MeToo movement. Hampshire Democratic Party stripped
ing an evening fund-raiser in New York Katz, who worked as a strategist on Cyn- Several party strategists who have Mr. Clinton’s name from its annual fall
City to benefit the campaign of Mike thia Nixon’s failed bid to unseat Gov. An- been in discussions with Democrats dinner, changing it from the “Kennedy-
Espy, Mr. Clinton’s former agriculture drew Cuomo of New York this year. weighing presidential bids suggested Clinton Dinner” to the “Eleanor Roose-
secretary who is running for the Senate Mr. Clinton, 72, currently chairs the that reckoning with Mr. Clinton’s legacy velt Dinner.” The state party chairman,
in Mississippi. Mr. Espy’s campaign de- Marion Baker, 93, from Conway, Ark., Photos of Bill and Hillary Clinton hanging board of the Clinton Foundation, helping could become a litmus test in the 2020 Raymond Buckley, said the new name
clined to comment on the event. started a Hillary Clinton fan club in 1993 at the Clinton Presidential Library in to promote and manage the philan- primary race, with candidates being highlighted the party’s “ commitment to
The absence of Mr. Clinton is a notable to show support for the former first lady. Little Rock, Ark. thropic organization he founded after asked whether he should have resigned electing Democratic women.”
shift both for a man who has helped leaving the White House. Angel Ureña, a after the Lewinskyh affair became pub- Even in his home state, some Demo-
Democratic candidates in every election spokesman for Mr. Clinton, said the for- lic. crats are struggling with how to recon-
for the past half century and for a party and voters are likely to drive any Demo- sues like financial regulation and crime. mer president believes “this election The Clintons recently announced a 13- cile Mr. Clinton’s policy achievements
long defined by the former first couple. cratic gains, Mr. Clinton finds his legacy “I’m not sure that with all the issues should be about these times and these city arena tour, produced by Live Na- with his personal behavior.
Hillary Clinton has slowly become a tarnished by what some in the party see he has, he could really be that helpful to candidates.” tion, guaranteeing they’ll continue to be “I’m not a fan of what he’s said re-
more visible presence in the 2018 elec- as his inability to reckon with his sexual the candidates,” said Tamika D. Mallory, “President Clinton is encouraged by in the spotlight into the spring. Some cently about #MeToo,” said Claire
tion, even seeming to crack open the indiscretions as president with a White an organizer of the Women’s March, the large number of impressive Demo- Democrats worry the tour will become a Brown, 37, a Little Rock real estate
door to another presidential bid in an in- House intern, Monica Lewinsky, as well who’s now promoting female candidates crats running for office who are person- distraction just as the party attempts to agent, as she mingled with other donors
terview a week ago, but she is also a fre- as with past allegations of sexual as- across the country. “It would do the ally telling their stories and laying out shape a national message that could ef- at a fund-raiser for Mr. Tucker’s cam-
quent Republican target and a burden to sault. (Mr. Clinton has denied those alle- Democratic Party well to have Bill Clin- their vision for how to get America back fectively challenge President Trump in paign. “But I don’t think you understand
Democrats in some parts of the country. gations.) Younger and more liberal vot- ton focus on his humanitarian efforts.” on track,” he said. “They are the people the presidential election. the economic impact that man has had
In an election shaped by the #MeToo ers find little appeal in Mr. Clinton’s rep- Rebecca Kirszner Katz, a veteran voters need to hear from.” The couple still has pull, in part be- on the local economy and our state. The
movement, where female candidates utation for ideological centrism on is- Democratic strategist, says many Dem- The uneasiness around Mr. Clinton cause of their decades-long personal re- gratitude for that will be infinite.”

A nation in turmoil ready to deliver its verdict on Trump


ELECTION, FROM PAGE 1 In a possible portent of how he might
can strategists have argued that about react to electoral defeat, Mr. Trump
two dozen races are within the margin of lashed out at House Speaker Paul D.
error in polling; should right-of-center Ryan on Twitter after Mr. Ryan criti-
voters swing back to them on Election cized his dubious proposal to void the
Day, they say, Democrats could fall constitutional guarantee of citizenship
short of winning enough seats to take to anyone born on American soil.
control of the House. Mr. Trump’s approach may resonate
Republican officials were more confi- in several of the states with the closest
dent about their prospects in the Senate, Senate races, though it has the potential
where they had an opportunity to en- to backfire in several diverse states
large their majority in an otherwise dif- where Republican-held seats are at risk,
ficult year. Nearly all of the most impor- including Nevada, Arizona and Texas.
tant Senate races are being fought on “It turns off independent voters,” said
solidly conservative terrain, including Senator Chris Van Hollen, a Maryland
North Dakota, Missouri and Indiana, Democrat and head of the Democratic
where Democratic incumbents are in Senate campaign arm, arguing that
close contests for re-election. Mr. Trump such states offered his party “a narrow
won all three states by landslide mar- path” to a majority.
gins in 2016. Christine Matthews, a Republican
There was an unmistakable disso- pollster, said the Democratic message,
nance between the relative health of the focused on health care, was “more rele-
economy and the dark mood of the coun- MADDIE MCGARVEY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES AUDRA MELTON FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES vant” to most voters than what Mr.
try, as voters prepared to go to the polls A rally in Cleveland on Sunday encouraging people to vote. In early voting, more than A get-out-the-vote rally on Sunday in Macon, Ga., in support of the Republican guberna- Trump was offering them in his final ar-
just days after a wave of attempted mail 28 million people nationwide had already cast ballots by the end of Friday. torial nominee, Brian Kemp. President Trump headlined the rally. gument.
bombings and a massacre at a Pitts- Likening the election to a tug of war,
burgh synagogue that left 11 dead. Ms. Matthews said the president was
“The nation is in political turmoil,” toward the end of the campaign. If Mr. nation,” said Mr. Heinrich, who is ex- could buffet his party even more in 2020, Many of those communities could also trying to energize his predominantly
said Representative Carlos Curbelo, a Trump has animated a powerful na- pected to win re-election easily on Tues- when a less-inviting list of seats is up for tip powerful governorships into Demo- white and male base even as moderate
Florida Republican facing a difficult re- tional campaign against him, Democrat- day. election — including his own. “We may cratic hands for the first time in a dec- women recoil from him.
election, in part because of Mr. Trump’s ic candidates have largely avoided en- That mind-set on the left has given be able to survive with this map in 2018, ade. “On one end, you’ve got white college-
unpopularity. “The economy is roaring, gaging the president personally in the Democrats an upper hand in campaign but we cannot survive that map in 2020,” Former Gov. Ted Strickland of Ohio, educated women pulling hard, pulling
but the mood is so sour. It’s a very sad closing days of the election, instead fund-raising. Political spending in the he said. the last Democrat to lead that state, said back from what we’re seeing,” Ms.
time in this country.” hewing close to a few favored issues, like election is expected to exceed $5 billion, It is the House, though, where Repub- the election had effectively become a Matthews said. “On the other side of the
The mood that has imperiled lawmak- health care. making it the most costly midterm con- licans face greater peril. referendum on Mr. Trump, leaving rope, you’ve got non-college-educated
ers like Mr. Curbelo has buoyed Demo- At a Saturday morning rally, Repre- test in history, according to a report by Most critical to determining control of Democrats “confident about the House men pulling hard in the other direction.”
crats across the country. A class of first- sentative Ben Ray Luján of New Mexico, the Center for Responsive Politics. The the chamber are likely to be prosperous, and a little concerned about the Senate.” At no point this fall has a majority of
time candidates has been lifted by an the head of the Democrats’ campaign report found that Democratic candi- culturally dynamic suburbs — around “He’s on the ballot, regardless of voters approved of Mr. Trump, and
enormous surge of activism and poli- committee in the House, drummed dates for the House had raised more cities like New York, Philadelphia, De- whether his name is there or not,” Mr. while some surveys have shown im-
tical energy on the left, as an array of home the party’s ethos of ignoring Mr. money than their Republican competi- troit, Miami, Chicago and Los Angeles Strickland said of the president. provement in his standing recently, the
constituencies offended by Mr. Trump Trump while riding the backlash against tors, by a margin of more than $300 mil- — where Republicans are defending Mr. Trump has appeared to turn his Gallup poll found at the end of October
— including women, young people and him. lion. several dozen districts packed with vot- attention in the last few days away from that just 2 in 5 Americans rated his per-
voters of color — has mobilized with a “We don’t really have to even talk Many Senate Democrats have also ers in open revolt against Mr. Trump. the effort to keep control of the House formance favorably.
force unseen in recent midterm elec- about this president — he’s going to do raised more money than their contend- Democrats have won over many swing and toward shoring up Republicans in If many of the most closely watched
tions. all the talking about himself, for him- ers, a sobering reminder to Republican voters in these areas with a message fo- coveted Senate races. He has focused elections are at the federal level, gover-
Early voting across the country re- self,” Mr. Luján said, addressing volun- officials about the rise of small-dollar cused on Republican health care and tax predominantly on electrifying the right, nors’ races around the country may be
flected the intensity of the election: teers in Los Lunas, where Democrats and billionaire contributors on the left. policies that are even less popular than rather than soothing some of the swing the most consequential elections, long
More than 28 million people had already are making a push to pick up an open “If alarm bells aren’t ringing across the president himself. voters who backed him over Hillary term, for both parties. Democrats are
cast ballots by the end of Friday, about House seat. “I want you to concentrate the Republican landscape as a result of “I don’t think you can find a race in the Clinton two years ago. hoping to elect a history-making set of
10 million more than at a comparable on families here in New Mexico.” the dollars Democrats have raised and country where health care hasn’t been a In the final weeks of campaigning, Mr. candidates, including Stacey Abrams in
point in the 2014 midterm elections, ac- But Senator Martin Heinrich, appear- the mechanism they raised them with, dominant issue,” the Democratic strat- Trump has delivered slashing attacks on Georgia and Andrew Gillum in Florida,
cording to the Democratic data firm ing beside Mr. Luján and Xochitl Torres then we don’t deserve the majority,” said egist Jesse Ferguson said. immigration, railing against birthright who would be the first African-Ameri-
Catalist. Small, a water-use lawyer who is the Senator Cory Gardner of Colorado, who The fate of Republican lawmakers in citizenship, linking immigration without cans to lead their states. And Republi-
Voters have helped nominate a record Democratic nominee for Congress, cast oversees the Senate Republican cam- the East Coast suburbs could offer an evidence to violent crime and ampli- cans are struggling to defend their dom-
number of female candidates for Con- the election in dire terms familiar to paign arm. early harbinger on election night of fying debunked conspiracy theories inance across Midwestern state govern-
gress and delivered Democrats a wide worried Democrats across the country. Mr. Gardner warned that the Demo- whether the party can maintain even a about a migrant caravan in Latin Amer- ments, from Michigan and Ohio to Wis-
and unaccustomed financial advantage “This is a battle for who we are as a crats’ newfound fund-raising prowess tenuous grip on the House. ica. consin and Iowa.
..
6 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION

tech

Nannies who do double duty as phone police


and TVs off and hidden at all times. the nanny may take calls from the par- ing a toddler to a TV through a shop win- fend the nanny and declare that the
SAN FRANCISCO
Some are even producing no-phone con- ent. “We do a lot of these phone con- dow. phone use at that moment was allowed.
tracts, aimed at ensuring zero unauthor- tracts now,” Ms. Perkins said. “The nanny spotters, the nanny “They’ll say, ‘Actually it was my
BY NELLIE BOWLES ized screen exposure, for their nannies “We’re writing work agreements up spies,” said Ms. Perkins, the UrbanSitter nanny, and she was texting me, but
to sign. in a different way to cover screen and chief executive. “They’re self-ap- thank you for the heads up,’ ” Ms. Latif
Silicon Valley parents are increasingly The fear of screens has reached the tech use,” said Julie Swales, who runs pointed, but at least every day there’s a said. “Of course it’s very, very offensive
obsessed with keeping their children level of panic in Silicon Valley. Vigilantes the Elizabeth Rose Agency, a high-end post in one of the forums.” on a human rights level. You’re being
away from screens. Even a little screen now post photos to parenting message company that provides nannies and The posts follow a pattern: A parent tracked and monitored and put on social
time can be so deeply addictive, some boards of possible nannies using cell- house managers for families in Silicon will take a photo of a child accompanied media. But I do think it comes from a
parents believe, that it’s best if a child phones near children. Which is to say, Valley. “Typically now, the nanny is not by an adult who is perceived to be not genuine concern.”
neither touches nor sees the glittering the very people building these glowing allowed to use her phone for any private paying enough attention, upload it to Commenters will jump in to defend
rectangles. These particular parents, af- hyper-stimulating portals have become use.” one of the private social networks, like someone — or to point out that no one
ter all, deeply understand their allure. increasingly terrified of them. And it has This can be tricky. These same par- San Francisco’s Main Street Mamas, can be sure whether the perpetrator is a
But it’s very hard for a working adult put their nannies in an awkward posi- ents often want updates through the home to thousands of members, and parent or a nanny. “There is this thought
in the 21st century to live at home with- tion. day. ask: “Is this your nanny?” that the moms can be on their phones,”
out looking at a phone and enforce a “In the last year everything has She said that at least wealthy tech ex- She calls the practice “nanny-outing.” Ms. Latif said. “They can be texting, be-
screen-free environment. And so, as changed,” said Shannon Zimmerman, a ecutives know what they want — no “What I’ll see is, ‘Did anyone have a cause it’s their child.”
with many aspirations and ideals, it’s nanny in San Jose who works for fam- phones at all. The harder families to daughter with a red bow in Dolores Others say it shouldn’t make a differ-
easier to hire someone to do this. ilies that ban screen time. “Parents are staff are those that are still unsure how Park? Your nanny was on her phone not ence. Anita Castro, 51, has been a nanny
Enter the Silicon Valley nanny, who now much more aware of the tech to handle tech. paying attention,’ ” Ms. Perkins said. in Silicon Valley for 12 years. She says
each day returns to the time before they’re giving their kids. Now it’s like, “It’s almost safer to some degree in The forums, where parents post ques- she knows she works in homes that have
screens. ‘Oh no, reel it back, reel it back.’ Now the those houses because they know what tions and buy and sell baby gear, are cameras set up to film her. She thinks
“Usually a day consists of me being al- parents will say ‘No screen time at all.’ ” PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY TRACY MA/THE NEW YORK TIMES; they’re dealing with,” she said, “as op- now reckoning with public shaming and the nanny-outing posts cross a line and
GETTY IMAGES (WOMAN AND CHILD)
lowed to take them to the park, intro- Ms. Zimmerman likes these new posed to other families who are still try- privacy issues. Main Street Mamas has feel like “an invasion.”
duce them to card games,” said Jordin rules, which she said harken back to a cording to nanny agencies across the re- ing to muddle their way in tech.” recently banned photos from being in- “I use the forums to find jobs, but now
Altmann, 24, a nanny in San Jose, Calif., time when children behaved better and gion. cluded in these ‘nanny spotted’ posts, just reading the titles: ‘I saw your nanny
of her charges. “Board games are huge.” knew how to play outside. “The people who are closest to tech “NANNY-OUTING” Ms. Perkins said. . . . ’ ” Ms. Castro said. “Who are these
“Almost every parent I work for is Parents, though, find the rules harder are the most strict about it at home,” Some parents in Silicon Valley are em- “We follow and are part of quite a people? Are they the neighbors? Are
very strong about the child not having to follow themselves, Ms. Zimmerman said Lynn Perkins, the chief executive of bracing a more aggressive approach. large number of social media groups they friends?”
any technical experience at all,” Ms. Alt- said. “Most parents come home, and UrbanSitter, which she says has 500,000 While their offices are churning out around the Bay Area, and we’ve had Another nanny told Ms. Castro about
mann said. “In the last two years, it’s be- they’re still glued to their phones, and sitters throughout the United States. gadgets and apps, the nearby parks are families scout out nannies at parks,” quitting after one snooping mother fol-
come a very big deal.” they’re not listening to a word these kids “We see that trend with our nannies full of phone spies. These hobbyists take said Syma Latif, who runs Bay Area Sit- lowed her around during visits to parks.
From Cupertino to San Francisco, a are saying,” she said. very clearly.” it upon themselves to monitor and alert ters, which has about 200 nannies in ro- “She’d pop up and say, ‘Hey, you’re not
growing consensus has emerged that The phone contracts basically stipu- the flock. tation. “It’ll be like, ‘Is this your nanny? on your phone, are you? You’re not let-
screen time is bad for children. It follows NO-PHONE CONTRACTS late that a nanny must agree not to use There are nannies who may be push- She’s texting and the child is on the ting him do that, are you?’” Ms. Castro
that these parents are now asking nan- Parents are now asking nannies to sign any screen, for any purpose, in front of ing a swing with one hand and texting swing.’ ” recalled. “So she finally just said, ‘You
nies to keep phones, tablets, computers stringent “no-phone use contracts,” ac- the child. Often there is a proviso that with the other, or inadvertently expos- Sometimes a parent will step in to de- know, I don’t think you need a nanny.’ ”

Answer to housing crisis


may be in the backyard
BY TIM MCKEOUGH added construction is easy on neigh-
borhoods and neighbors. It can take
In the San Francisco Bay Area, a re- two, three years to build something,
gion filled with technology companies with all the noise and visual pollution.
interested in design, Yves Béhar is a And wasted materials that come with
designer interested in technology. that.
Among other things, Mr. Béhar and his But with the YB1, it takes about a
company, Fuseproject, have helped month to build it in a factory and a day
create August smart door locks, Pay- to install. It comes prewired with all
Pal’s brand identity, an app-connected your electrical, HVAC, appliances —
height-adjusting desk for Herman everything is ready to go. Prefabs
Miller, the Snoo smart bassinet and Ori make it so much more accessible for
robotic furniture. people to add housing stock, and it’s so
For his latest project, Mr. Béhar has much cleaner.
turned his attention to housing. Work-
ing with LivingHomes and its manu- How is the YB1 different from other
facturing offshoot, Plant Prefab, which prefabs?
has attracted venture capital funding Designing a prefab to fit in someone’s
from Amazon’s Alexa Fund and Obvi- backyard is a different exercise than
ous Ventures, he has designed the thinking about completely new con-
YB1: a modular, customizable dwelling struction on a virgin piece of land. It’s
unit (or A.D.U.) to serve as a stand- a smaller space, and it has neighbors,
alone residence in just about any back- fences and privacy and light issues. I
yard. realized that a one-size-fits-all ap-
A.D.U.s — secondary residences like proach wouldn’t function well, and
in-law units associated with a larger would really restrict adoption.
home — are already popular in cities Our approach has been to think of it
like Portland, Ore., Seattle and Vancou- more as a system that allows maxi-
ver, British Columbia, and have re- mum flexibility. It’s built on a four-foot
cently been getting a lot of attention in system: Every four feet, you can de-
California. Over the past few years, the cide whether you have a full-height
state and numerous counties and cities wall, a full-height window, a clerestory
have introduced new laws and pro- or a half-size window. You can decide
grams aimed at encouraging home- how much light you have, and where
owners to build A.D.U.s in response to the view comes from. You can maxi-
housing shortages. mize privacy and the program of the
Mr. Béhar, who is presenting his first home to be really specific to your
YB1 at the Summit ideas festival in Los needs.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BENJAMIN NORMAN FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES Angeles this weekend, spoke about the There are two different flat-roof
Clockwise from top: Kevin Roose, a technology columnist, recording a podcast episode; an encryption key for computer access; and the SelfControl app, which he uses to focus. design ahead of its unveiling. (This heights — one with clerestory, one
interview has been edited and con- without — and a pitched roof, which
densed.) gives you the option to have a loft

Keeping tabs on election disinformation Why should people care about acces-
sory dwelling units?
It’s basically an extra building you can
space upstairs.

What are the key materials and fea-


tures?
build in your backyard. This is now It’s a steel structure with concrete
Tech We’re Using being recognized as a solution for panels or slatted wood panels in a
adding housing, whether it’s for aging natural or black finish. There’s a shut-
parents, students or people who are ter system that creates shadow with
just starting out. an overhead awning. We have a roof
BY THE NEW YORK TIMES It’s a solution for housing stock in that is designed to capture rainwater.
cities, and hopefully bringing costs
How do New York Times journalists use down. And people can do it themselves The first YB1 is a 625-square-foot
technology in their jobs and in their rather than waiting for local govern- unit that costs about $280,000, but
personal lives? Kevin Roose, a technol- ment or developers. you’ve said future units will be avail-
ogy columnist in New York who has able for less than $100,000. How will
been writing about disinformation Prefab houses haven’t quite lived up you get the price down?
online, discussed the tech he’s using. to the hype of providing well-de- This one has a lot of glass, almost all
signed, mass-produced affordable the way around, and is a full-featured
As a technology columnist, what are homes for all. What did you think you one with really nice appliances and
some of your favorite tech tools for could bring to the table? finishes. So it’s toward the higher end
work? It’s been a very fascinating field that of what we build.
For work, I use a company-issued pherable interview notes along with 46 online disinformation in the run-up to hacking attempts on campaigns and has had its ups and downs. The trac- Plant Prefab is investing in robotic
MacBook Pro. I hate, hate, hate the pages of “CALL WALGREENS.” the midterm elections. What is your think tanks. We’ve also seen new tion prefabs were having was much construction and new assembly tech-
keyboard on it, so I sometimes use an When I really need to get work done, advice for spotting disinformation? forms of disinformation, including the lower than anticipated for single- nology, which will help us to bring the
external keyboard, which makes me I use an app called SelfControl, which What tools do you use to do that? spreading of false claims over peer-to- family homes. cost down. We think of it a little like a
look incredibly cool at the coffee shop. blocks my access to certain potentially A lot of spotting disinformation is peer texting apps. What’s really transformational for Tesla Model S versus a Tesla Model 3,
But my only other option is using my distracting websites for a set period of hanging out in the right places. I spend the field, I believe, are these new with a progression of products that will
MacBook Air, which is about seven time. Mine is set to block Facebook, a fair amount of time on Reddit and What are you doing to combat those A.D.U. laws. Interest has really be priced differently.
years old, runs out of hard drive space Twitter, YouTube and Reddit, and I 4chan and in private Facebook groups annoying robotexts? boomed. I’m anticipating that the
every time I use it and has a battery usually set it for two or three hours at where a lot of hoaxes and viral rumors I actually haven’t gotten that many A.D.U. market will grow substantially How soon will that happen?
life of maybe 20 minutes. a time. I also bought noise-canceling tend to originate. I also rely on tips political robotexts. I do get frequent in the next decade or two. We’re working on it right now and
A few years ago, I got hacked really headphones this year, because my from our readers, who have been sub- robotexts from a Caribbean restaurant actually have a project for low-cost
badly. (It was my own fault — I was colleagues, God love them, are always mitting hundreds of examples of disin- in Queens, which I’ve never been to For people who decide to build an housing here in Northern California,
hosting a TV show about tech and talking on the phone with their formation from their own feeds. And but whose promotional list I somehow A.D.U., what is the advantage of where they’re interested in a nice little
volunteered to have a few professional sources. I’m pretty into a Spotify Twitter (deep, heaving sigh) is useful, got on. (I will make it to the Friday going prefab? number of them. Based on that partic-
hackers attack me, as an experiment.) playlist called Focus Flow, which is too. night fish fry soon, I promise.) The reason prefabs make so much ular project, I think we’ll have an op-
As a result, I’m pretty paranoid. I use perfect for drowning out their lovely, Recently, I’ve also been spending a sense in the A.D.U. context is that the portunity in the next year or so.
physical security keys, VPNs, an en- incessant yakking. lot of time on Crowdtangle, a tool that Outside of work, what tech product
crypted email provider and half a allows you to see what’s spreading are you obsessed with?
dozen secure texting apps to communi- What are some of the trade-offs of rapidly across Facebook at any given I cook a lot, and I’m still pretty into my
cate with sources and colleagues. using this tech? moment. (Crowdtangle used to be an Instant Pot.
I know I should be using to-do apps I like taking physical notes because I independent company, but Facebook I’ve also been working on my sleep
and bullet journaling, but I’m still retain information better when it’s bought it in 2016.) I have a series of recently, which is very Arianna Huffin-
pretty old school about taking notes. I written on actual paper. The downside dashboards set up that allow me to gton of me. Recently, I bought a $15
carry a little brown Field Notes note- is that I spend a lot of time scrambling monitor thousands of Facebook pages noise machine on Amazon. You can fill
book in my shirt pocket, and I write around my apartment looking for the on different topics and see which false your bedroom with jungle noises, or
down everything that could possibly be notebook I left in a jacket pocket or claims are being shared by which ocean waves, or crickets on a summer
of interest — story ideas, errands to under the sofa. There’s also a definite people and pages. night. It’s phenomenal.
run, people I need to call, words I want trade-off between security and conven- On the recommendation of several
to look up — in my atrocious chicken- ience. I probably spend 30 percent of What kind of election-related tech friends, I also bought a gravity blanket,
scratch handwriting, in no particular my day typing in two-factor authenti- shenanigans have you seen recently? which is weighted down with heavy
order. When I fill up a notebook, I add cation codes. But I sleep better than I There have been a fair number of beads. It’s meant for people with anxi-
it to a big pile on my bookshelf. I’m used to. shenanigans on social media this cycle ety, but I just like the way it sits heavy
excited to reread them all when I’m old — things like coordinated influence on my body and prevents me from A rendering of the YB1, a prefabricated accessory dwelling unit designed by Yves Béhar,
and nostalgic, and see some indeci- You’ve been covering the spread of campaigns, fake Facebook ads, and rolling over too much at night. the founder of the design firm Fuseproject, which is based in San Francisco.
..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 | 7

Opinion
Why do we destroy what makes us?
A historic
part of Cairo
is being
razed. Its
demolition
means the
loss of
heritage
buildings
— and of
characters
and customs.

KHALED DESOUKI/AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE — GETTY IMAGES

buildings taking over surrounding In 2008, the government entity for Above, what was
Yasmine El Rashidi agricultural land and desert, and high- physical planning unveiled a develop- left of Cairo’s
Contributing Writer rises replacing villas or vacant lots in ment plan called “Cairo 2050” that Maspero Triangle,
the city’s center. Today, Greater Cairo’s envisioned the city like a rendition of first developed in
population is estimated at 23.5 million, Dubai. Maspero Triangle was deemed the 1400s, in
and grew by approximately 500,000 to be a slum and was to be remade April.
CAIRO There is a district close to the people in 2017. Two-thirds of its resi- instead as “Manhattan in Cairo.” The
center of downtown Cairo that extends dents live in informal settlements, plan was the first of many proposals
from the banks of the Nile about one according to government and NGO over subsequent years, and subse-
kilometer into one of the city’s most sources. Maspero Triangle encapsu- quent governments, that were shelved
significant historic thoroughfares. lates all that history — the country’s for lack of planning, funds or support.
Known as Maspero Triangle, it’s a history — and the richness, sociolog- Then, in 2016, President Abdel Fat-
wedge-shaped area of some 85 acres ical and cultural, bred by adaptation to tah el-Sisi announced that all unsafe
that has been home to 18,000 residents economic challenges. informal settlements would be elimi-
— until this year, when the govern- In the late 1800s, the district was the nated within two years. Maspero Tri-
ment started forcibly evicting what property of a wealthy Ottoman noble- angle is among the most visibly con-
residents it could by cutting off water man, Sharkas Pasha, who let his ser- tested, partly because of its location
and electricity, and then bulldozing vants build houses and heritage status, and partly be-
buildings to the ground. The oral on the land in ex- cause only about one-third of it, ac-
The district’s first signs of develop- change for rent. cording to several urbanists I spoke to,
ment date back to the 1400s, with the
history When the Sharkas might have been fairly called unsafe. It
Sultan Abu El Ela Mosque, which still of these family left Egypt for was an area I walked or drove through
stands at its northern tip. But its main alleyways Turkey in the 1940s, every day for years, when I worked at
structures were erected in the 19th spans several the land was placed a local weekly paper in a bordering
century and passed down through political eras. in an endowment neighborhood; the Maspero bakery,
generations after that. Over the years, When the that guaranteed the the corner fruit stand, the Italian club
vacant land in the center of the trian- residents servants’ leases for and the historic watch shop Hinhayat
gle was built up informally, by resi- of Maspero the next two dec- were all places I frequented.
dents with no formal deeds, slowly ades. It reverted to One can’t deny that parts of the city
becoming part of the architectural and
Triangle the government in are run down, or that haphazard addi-
cultural heritage of Cairo. Some of the leave, all 1968 and was sold to tions on buildings can be unsafe. But
buildings have — had — facades with of this will Kuwaiti and Saudi the organic way in which such districts
elaborate stone corbels, internal mar- disappear. investors. developed, mixing the historic and the
ble staircases and palazzo-style apart- But those deals makeshift, gives them a unique cultur-
ments of room after room with four- overlooked the fact al value. The heritage they represent is
meter-high stucco-detailed ceilings. that by then some of the area’s resi- tangible, in the form of buildings and
Today, when you drive into the city dents had already sold their shares in trees, and intangible, by way of
over the main bridge and look down as plots. And they overlooked a 1941 customs and characters.
you approach Tahrir Square, Maspero rent-control law under which residents Residents in Maspero Triangle
Triangle is a mass of rubble and rising couldn’t be evicted nor could their would exchange news and recipes
YASMINE EL RASHIDI
dust, reminiscent of photographs of rents be raised. across balconies, and passed on disap-
many a city after war. Only a dozen or President Anwar el-Sadat contended pearing skills like clock repairing from The government started evicting what residents it could by cutting off water and elec-
so buildings remain, some with their with this problem in the late 1970s by one generation to the next. The neigh- tricity, and then bulldozing to the ground what had been home to 18,000 residents.
top floors destroyed by cranes — a ordering a moratorium on renovations borhood held on to age-old traditions:
government tactic to then declare the or improvements to buildings in the During Ramadan, musaharati walked
structures unsafe. area — the intention being to let them the narrow streets at dawn hollering to
As the country’s population swelled fall into forced dereliction. In the late observing Muslims to rise for their last
in the 1960s and people migrated from 1990s, under President Hosni Muba- meal before the fast. The oral history
rural to urban areas, city housing fell rak, a law was passed that gave the of these alleyways spans several poli-
in short supply. Cairo grew outward government the right to claim and tical eras. When the residents of
and inward at the same time, with demolish anything for “public utility.” Maspero Triangle leave, all of this will
disappear.
Maspero residents were offered
60,000 Egyptian pounds (about
$3,350) per room, a relocation fee of
40,000 Egyptian pounds (about $2,200)
and either rent-subsidized housing in
Asmarat, a low-income suburb in the
desert, or the chance to return to
Maspero once it is rebuilt — a possibil-
ity that few of them believe in.
In an interview in August a journal-
ist asked Khaled Siddiq, who heads the
government’s Informal Settlements
Development Fund, why the 290 stores
in Asmarat were still closed, despite
the relocations. Mr. Siddiq said, “We’re
working on unifying the styles of their
AHMED EL BINDARI
facades, so they all look the same and
conform to an image of the ideal soci- Elaborate stone corbels and internal marble staircases defined many of the buildings.
ety. We won’t leave any room for ran-
domness to come back to this area
again.” a majestic building that was the site of be spared. The government must stop
Yet randomness is why in Cairo, as Egypt’s declaration of independence looking outward to mimic other parts
in, say, Rome, you might turn a corner from the British in 1922 — to make of the world. Instead it should focus
or enter a crumbling alleyway and find way for a luxury hotel and shopping inward — on its own population’s
an ancient ruin. mall. The pyramids of Giza used to be needs and human dignity here, and on
But even as rising water levels have a long drive of desert stretch away; that piece of the world’s heritage that
threatened monuments, such as the now the city just about touches their resides in Egypt and that once lost can
Sphinx, cultural landmarks like the edge. never be recovered.
singer Umm Kulthum’s home are left It may be too late as well to save
to be demolished and sold off to devel- what remains of Maspero Triangle, but YASMINE EL RASHIDI is the author of “The
opers. Earlier this year, the govern- there are two dozen other informal Battle for Egypt: Dispatches from the
YASMINE EL RASHIDI
ment began destroying the Grand neighborhoods in Cairo alone that are Revolution” and “Chronicle of a Last
Some of the buildings had palazzo-style apartments with four-meter-high stucco-detailed ceilings. Continental hotel in downtown Cairo — slated for a similar fate and might still Summer: A Novel of Egypt.”
..
8 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION

opinion

American Jews know this story


Holocaust survivors, but they didn’t go stories of murdered rabbis asks: “Who synagogues, many bringing memories
A.G. SULZBERGER, Publisher
Dara Horn that far forward in history. The words can forget, even after decades, the that American Jews had forgotten.
DEAN BAQUET, Executive Editor MARK THOMPSON, Chief Executive Officer were already there. sight of his father huddled in the great Those memories were waiting for them
JOSEPH KAHN, Managing Editor STEPHEN DUNBAR-JOHNSON, President, International The people murdered in Pittsburgh prayer shawl and trying in vain to in the synagogue’s books. On the holi-
TOM BODKIN, Creative Director JEAN-CHRISTOPHE DEMARTA, Senior V.P., Global Advertising were mostly old, because the old are conceal the tears which flowed down day of Purim, they recited the Book of
SUZANNE DALEY, Associate Editor ACHILLES TSALTAS, V.P., International Conferences “There are no words.” the pillars of Jewish life, full of days his cheeks during the recital of this Esther, about an ancient Persian lead-
CHARLOTTE GORDON, V.P., International Consumer Marketing
This was what I heard most often in and memories. They are the ones who poem?” er’s failed attempt at a Jewish geno-
JAMES BENNET, Editorial Page Editor HELEN KONSTANTOPOULOS, V.P., International Circulation
the last 10 days or so from those who come to synagogue first, the ones who By the time I was a kid reciting cide. It’s a time for costumes and lev-
JAMES DAO, Deputy Editorial Page Editor HELENA PHUA, Executive V.P., Asia-Pacific
were stunned by the news: 11 people know the words by heart. The oldest those poetic stories, no one was crying. ity, for shaking noisemakers to blot out
KATHLEEN KINGSBURY, Deputy Editorial Page Editor SUZANNE YVERNÈS, International Chief Financial Officer
were murdered at the Tree of Life victim was Rose Mallinger, 97. Instead my siblings and I smirked at the evildoer’s name. One year my
synagogue in Pittsburgh — believed to The year Ms. Mallinger was born the excessive gory details, the violence brother dressed as the ayatollah, and
be the largest massacre of Jews on was the tail end of the mass migration unfamiliar enough to be absurd. But the Persians in our congregation
American soil. But there are words for of more than two million Eastern Euro- Rabbi Hanina must have been right, laughed. Another year someone
this, entire books full of words: the pean Jews to Amer- because we still were reading from dressed as Gorbachev; the Russians
books the murdered people were read- The way ica between 1881 and that same scroll, the same words Jews loved it. The evildoers seemed de-
COMMON SENSE ON THE CARAVAN ing at the hour of their deaths.
News reports described these vic-
1924. Many brought
forward from with them memories
first taught the world: Do not oppress
the stranger. Love your neighbor as
feated.
In 2000, when Ms. Mallinger was 79,
tims as praying, but Jewish prayer is Pittsburgh is of pogroms, of men yourself. a Jewish senator was his party’s nomi-
The caravan of people slowly making their way on not primarily personal or spontaneous. written in our invading synagogues People Ms. Mallinger’s age were in nee for vice president. A year later the
A group of blistered feet and thin hopes toward America’s south- It is communal reading. Public recita- prayer books. with weapons, of their 20s when word spread about White House hosted its first official
desperate ern border sometimes seems like an election gift to tions of ancient words, scripts com- blood on holy books. mass murders of Jews in Europe. In Hanukkah party.
migrants piled centuries ago and nearly identi- This wasn’t shock- synagogue on Rosh Hashana, they About a decade later I attended one
President Trump, giving him fresh meat to throw to
cal in every synagogue in the world. A ing, because it was already described read the old words begging God for myself. In the White House we recited
walking his base just before the fateful midterm elections. lot of those words are about exactly in those books. On Yom Kippur in compassion, “for the sake of those ancient words thanking God for rescu-
toward the The Central Americans, estimated at about 3,500 this. synagogue, these Jews read the stories killed for your holy name,” and “for the ing us from hatred. To older Jews, this
Texas border people, many of them women and children, have When I told my children what had of rabbis murdered by the Romans, sake of those slaughtered for your felt miraculous: My parents and
happened, they didn’t ask why; they including Rabbi Hanina ben Tradyon, uniqueness.” My husband’s grandpar- grandfather gawked at my photos,
is not a threat. morphed in the president’s immigrant-bashing dema- knew. “Because some people hate who was wrapped in a Torah scroll set ents came here after those massacres, awe-struck. But at the party I met
We have laws gogy into an “onslaught of illegal aliens” concealing Jews,” they said. How did these Ameri- aflame. Before dying, he told his stu- their previous spouses and children younger Jewish leaders who often
to protect us “criminals and unknown Middle Easterners,” all en- can children know that? They dents, “The parchment is burning, but slaughtered like the people in the attended these events. To them, this
shrugged. “It’s like the Passover story,” the letters are flying free!” prayer. They kept reciting the prayer, was normal. The ancient hatred was a
— and them. abled by Democrats and, Mr. Trump “wouldn’t be my 9-year-old told me. “And the Ha- My synagogue’s old prayer book and for their new American family it memory, words on a page.
surprised,” by George Soros, a favorite villain of far- nukkah story. And the Purim story. hints at what these stories meant to reverted to metaphor. Or maybe it wasn’t. In 2001, after
right conspiracy-mongers. And the Babylonians, and the Ro- American Jews Ms. Mallinger’s age. In the decades that followed, Jews terrorists attacked American cities,
mans.” My children are descendants of Its 1939 English preface to those from other places joined American HORN, PAGE 9
Mr. Trump is not sitting back and letting the barbar-
ians in. He has ordered the Army — which is barred
by law from performing police functions within the
United States — to bolster the frontier, saying he will
authorize soldiers to shoot if the trekkers start throw-
ing rocks “viciously and violently.” “This is an invasion
of our Country and our Military is waiting for you!”
tweeted Mr. Trump last week.
Mr. Trump, perhaps counseled by someone who
understands the military’s longstanding rules of en-
gagement, dialed back the threat a bit on Friday.
“They won’t have to fire,” he told reporters. “What I
don’t want is I don’t want these people throwing
rocks.”
Most of Mr. Trump’s description of the migrants is
untrue or unwarranted. But none of it is surprising.
Demonizing immigrants is his go-to move, from his
“big, beautiful wall” to his call to end birthright citizen-
ship. Not to mention the race-baiting campaign ad he
tweeted featuring a Mexican immigrant who was con-
victed of killing two police officers.
The Democrats have come back with a resounding
response. Resounding silence, that is, apart from a few
potshots at deploying the Army, which Barack Obama,
stumping in Florida, assailed as a “political stunt.”
More typical was the retort of Nancy Pelosi, the House
Democratic leader, when confronted by Mr. Trump’s
talk of revoking birthright citizenship. “Clearly, Repub-
licans will do absolutely anything to divert attention
away from their votes to take away Americans’ health
care,” she said.
Clearly, Representative Pelosi was doing some di-
verting herself. No doubt health care is a more com-
fortable campaign issue for Democrats than the mine-
field of immigration policy, but the caravan is not sim-
ply a political sideshow concocted by Mr. Trump. Any-
one who wants to defeat his bigoted politicking needs
to do better than to try to change the subject.
JEFF SWENSEN/GETTY IMAGES
The right way to deal with the caravan crisis is to
make clear that it is no crisis. The marchers pose no The final resting place for Rose Mallinger, one of 11 killed in the shooting at the Tree of Life Synagogue.
threat. The United States has clear laws governing
refugees and well-funded agencies to enforce those
laws, and it’s an embarrassing waste of money to send
troops to the border. In fact, illegal border crossings
have significantly declined in recent years. The coun-
try must and will continue to enforce the laws that
The luck of the Democrats
respects liberalism and the Democratic ing Silicon Valley into inshoring fac- just with more years out of power, but
control its borders, as Mr. Obama himself did as presi-
Party have been very lucky since. So tory jobs than whining about Fake outright irrelevance under long-term
dent during an earlier, actual surge of Central Ameri- their optimism isn’t just a gritted-teeth News; imagine that he made lower right-of-center rule.
can migrants, when he took the difficult step of dis- pose; it’s an appropriate reaction to a Medicare drug prices a signature issue But instead all the Trumpy things
patching National Guard troops to the border and landscape that’s more favorable than it rather than a last-minute pre-election that keep the commentariat in a lather
easily might have been. gambit. and liberals in despair — the Twitter
detaining many mothers and children. In this scenario it’s hard to imagine This strategy could have easily cut authoritarianism and white-identity
Longer-term questions about how to put the coun- Ross Douthat that Trump’s approval ratings wouldn’t the knees out from under the Demo- appeals, the chaos and lying and Han-
try’s approach to immigration back on a rational, mor- have floated up into the high 40s; they crats’ strongest appeal, their more nity-and-friends paranoid style — have
float up into the mid-40s as it is when- middle-class-friendly economic also kept the Democrats completely in
al foundation are more difficult. Republican hard-liners ever he manages to shut up. Even with agenda, and highlighted their biggest the game.
defeated bipartisan attempts at comprehensive immi- their threadbare and unpopular policy liability, which is the way the party’s Indeed there is an odd symbiosis
gration reform in 2007 and 2014. In the Trump era, One of the interesting features of this agenda, Republicans would be favored base is pulling liberalism way left of between the liberal analysts who
election cycle has been the gulf, often to keep the House and maintain their the middle on issues of race and cul- muster 16 regression analyses to prove
Democrats have found the issue of immigration even
vast, between the hysteria of liberals state-legislature advantages. All the ture and identity. It would have given that Midwesterners who voted twice
more confusing; a couple of Democratic senatorial who write about politics for a living structural impediments to a Democrat- Trump a chance to expand his support for the first black president and then
candidates have even lined up behind Mr. Trump. and the relative calm of Democrats ic recovery would loom much larger, among minorities while holding work- voted for Trump were white suprema-
Mr. Trump’s cruel treatment of immigrants and who practice it. Trump’s re-election ing-class whites, and to claim the kind cists all along, and Trump’s own in-
In the leftward reaches of my Twit- would be more likely of decisive power that many nationalist stinctive return to race-baiting in the
race-baiting about nonexistent threats do not amount ter feed the hour is late, the end of Trump than not, and his leaders around the world enjoy. It final weeks of this campaign. Both
to a solution. Managing the entry of refugees and democracy nigh, the Senate and the could have opposition would be would have threatened liberalism not ascribe more power than is merited to
other immigrants, and creating a fair system to deal Supreme Court illegitimate, and every flattened stuck waiting for a purely-racialized appeals, and both are
with the millions of undocumented immigrants within
Trump provocation a potential Reichs- liberalism. recession to have in denial about something that seems
tag fire. But on the campaign trail, with Instead he’s any chance of com- pretty obvious — that a real center-
the borders, are serious matters in need of common some exceptions and variations, Dem- given it an ing back. right majority could be built on eco-
sense and elemental humanity. ocrats are being upbeat and talking opening. Then consider a nomic populism and an approach to
The country needs to streamline the asylum system about health care and taxes and vari- second counterfac- national identity that rejects both
ous ambitious policy ideas, as though tual. Imagine that wokeness and white nationalism.
and establish generous quotas of immigrants and this is still America and not Weimar, a instead of just con- But it’s the president’s denial that’s
refugees from around the world. To be effective, any normal time and not a terrifying one. taining himself and behaving like a more politically costly for his party. If
immigration plan has to include serious development One way to look at this gulf is to generic Republican, Trump had actu- left-wing Twitter were running Demo-
argue the pundits are saying what the ally followed through on the populism cratic strategy while Donald Trump
aid to Central America’s troubled states. Cutting off politicians can’t — that alarmed liber- that he promised in 2016, dragging his talked about infrastructure and drug
what little aid they get, as Mr. Trump has threatened als grasp the truth of things but swing party toward the economic center and prices, 2018 might seal a conservative-
to do, will only create more caravans. voters don’t, so Democratic politicians ditching the G.O.P.’s most unpopular populist realignment.
have no choice but to carry on as nor- ideas. Imagine that he followed Instead, the Democrats who are
People seeking to partake of the American dream mal even if inside they’re screaming through on Steve Bannon’s boasts talking about health care while the
have always been central to America’s identity and too. about a big infrastructure bill instead president closes with fearmongering
strength. How the country treats them goes straight to Another way to look at it, though, is of trying for Obamacare repeal; imag- may know the secret of this election
its core values. The Democrats cannot sit this one out, that the politicians grasp an essential ine that he listened to Marco Rubio and cycle: The same environment that’s
ANDREW LICHTENSTEIN/CORBIS, VIA GETTY IMAGES
fact about the Trump era, which is that his daughter and tilted his tax cut making liberals feel desperate is, for
especially when the Republican leader is so blind to while they were obviously unlucky in more toward middle-class families; An effigy of Donald Trump in front of the Democrats, one of the more fortunate
the true sources of America’s greatness. their disastrous 2016 defeat, in most imagine that he spent more time bully- New York Stock Exchange last December. of possible worlds.

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THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 | 9

opinion

Seven cold-weather casseroles


Sarah Hutto

SKILLET MAC AND CHEESE. Ahh, an old


standby. Leave it to familiar things,
like the scent of pine, a gentle rain or
the lack of a constant feeling of dread
to bring you back to childhood. There’s
nothing like a home-style dish to de-
liver the quaint sensation of being
filled with melted cheese and carbohy-
drates while falling asleep on a couch
and not thinking about the next world
war.
CHICKEN ALFREDO BAKED PENNE. This
easy dish has only five ingredients.
Five would also be an acceptable num-
ber of years to travel back in time, if
you could, but the closest you’ll ever
get to time travel is voting in the
midterms, which could land you and
everyone else much further in the past
than five years. This casserole calls for
dairy and gluten, so make sure you
have two bathrooms if serving to
friends whom natural selection some-
how skipped over.
LOADED BAKED POTATO CASSEROLE. With
the word “loaded” in its name, you
might hope that it contains a little
something extra like, say, batteries, to JEREMY SORESE

power something useful like, say, a


time machine, but it doesn’t. Nope!
This casserole mostly contains just
potatoes, which are unfortunately the very cradle of tuna noodles, you “Time is cyclical, and your daughter
useless in the attempt to time travel, will unfortunately remain firmly used to be a stinkbug you stepped on in
except, of course, when used to defend planted in the present day, where another life.”
oneself from baffled torch-wielding everything is still happening right now. “Quinoa, was Julius Caesar hot?”
serfs in 15th-century France. This The recipe also includes the option of “The dream about the Russian sailor
recipe also calls for six tablespoons of adding dill, which, time-chronology- was actually a memory, and the Ma-

The threat of Orbanism in America unsalted butter — great for lubricating


time-machine skids, but you won’t
have to worry about that because this
wise, will change nothing. Unless, of

There’s
course, you’re a
survivor of an herb-
yans were off just by 10 years.”
ROASTED VEGETABLE LASAGNA. This
cozy dish layers savory roasted vege-
casserole will not allow you to travel related trauma and tables with wide flat noodles, much the
LEONHARDT, FROM PAGE 1 Not so long ago, Hungary was a media ignores inconvenient stories,
through time. Sorry!
nothing like suffer dill-induced way time is layered with your egre-
and said that his party is the only one shining example of post-Soviet suc- like anti-Orban protests. Instead, it
SHEPHERD’S PIE. What’s worse than a home-style flashbacks, which is gious mistakes and carelessness. May-
that represents the real people. cess. Power alternated between the pumps conspiracies, especially anti- dish to keep
Does any of this sound familiar? center-right and center-left. Orban — a immigrant, anti-Roma and anti-Semitic calling oneself a pie, despite being supposedly the least be you haven’t yet figured out how to
I cannot imagine the United States pro-democracy activist during the end ones, as the writer Paul Lendvai has filled with beef? Why, not having ac- you from desirable form of traverse the past while riding an 11-
or a Western European country turn- of Soviet rule in Hungary, who co- noted. During my stay, newspapers ran cess to a time machine, of course! thinking time travel. pound starch-and-broth-filled Pyrex
ing into Russia or China. But I can see founded Fidesz as a center-right party Soros-related stories for little apparent Shepherds herd sheep, which must be about World ANCIENT GRAIN AND sled to repair all the damage you’ve
how a major democracy could slide — originally became prime minister in reason, and there was talk of “the why they were cool with turning cows War III. VEGETABLE CASSEROLE. incurred in your short life.
toward Hungarian autocracy. Orban 1998. After only one term, and to his Soros caravan” — the same made-up into deceptively named non-dessert Bet you thought this But slow cookers will go on sale
clearly has such ambitions, and the far shock, he lost the job. story making the rounds on the Ameri- items. Surprisingly, the mutton-filled one would be a time soon, and with free shipping and some
right across much of Europe views him He responded with a plan to recap- can right. “cowherd’s pie” never quite caught on, machine for sure. jumper cables, you just might be able
as its model. Steve Bannon has praised ture power for “15 to 20 years,” as he I found it chilling to return home to a almost giving the impression that Nope! Though ancient grains do not to rectify those childhood grievances
him as the world’s most significant said at the time. “We have only to win Republican closing message in the society had room in its heart for only actually transport you back to ancient between the midterms and Thanksgiv-
politician. once, but then properly,” he explained. midterms that echoed Orban’s so one crust-covered baked meat dish times, they are haunted, providing you ing.
Most alarming, the Republican Party Fidesz did win in 2010, with help from closely. In both, fictitious invading pretending to be pie. a nifty portal for communicating with
has shown multiple signs of early a bungling socialist hordes — and those who supposedly MEDITERRANEAN TUNA NOODLE CASSE- the netherworld. SARAH HUTTO is a writer whose work has
ROLE. Though this dish boasts a sen- “Amaranth, what was it like riding a appeared in The New Yorker, The
Orbanism. No, the party is not as bad Just like government and support them — are the enemy of the
as Fidesz, and, yes, American democ- widespread income people. sory transport to the Mediterranean, horse and buggy everywhere?” Washington Post and McSweeney’s.
racy remains much healthier than the
Fox News, stagnation. Orban Orban’s culture war also involves a
Hungarian version. But the parallels the Hungar- went to work. lot of machismo. He has tried to elimi-
are there for anyone willing to see ian media His strategy has nate gender studies from Hungary’s
them: Like Orban, Republican leaders ignores had three main universities. In the senior leadership of
have repeatedly been willing to change inconvenient pillars. One, he Fidesz, not a single minister is a wom-
the rules and customs of democracy stories, like sought to control the an. The role of women, the speaker of
for the sake of raw power. anti-Orban media. Two, he the National Assembly has said, is “to
The list includes: rushing unpopular protests. launched a Chris- give birth to as many grandchildren as
bills through Congress with little de- tian-themed culture possible for us.”
bate; telling bald lies about those bills; war that discredits As I kept seeing photos of male
stealing a Supreme Court seat to main- his opponents. politicians in Hungary, I was reminded
tain a Republican majority; trying to Three, he changed the rules of democ- of the all-male group of Republicans
keep American citizens from voting; racy. In each of these ways — just as who tried to rewrite health care law in
gerrymandering; campaigning on Bannon understands — Fidesz is a the United States. Or the all-male
racism and xenophobia; refusing to turbocharged version of the Republi- group of Republicans who designed
investigate President Trump’s corrup- can Party. Trump’s tax cut. Or the all-male group
tion and Russian ties. Orban has made sure his allies run of Republicans who handle Supreme
Usually, Trump is not even the main most major media companies. If you Court nominations on the Senate Judi-
force behind these tactics. Other Re- imagine that Rupert Murdoch, Sinclair ciary Committee.
publicans are. In North Carolina, after
Republicans lost the governorship in
2016, they went so far as to strip the
office of some of its authority. Of
course it’s true that Democrats some-
Broadcasting Group and conservative
talk radio controlled most of American
media, you’d have a good sense for
today’s Hungarian media. (And many
Americans indeed get much of their
But no parallel is stronger or more
worrisome than the subverting of
public opinion, through changes to
election laws and other steps. István
Bibó, a 20th-century Hungarian poli-
Whatever happens
times play rough too, but there is no
list remotely like the one above for
them.
That’s why the midterms are so
important. The Republicans will almost
information from Murdoch, Sinclair or
talk radio.)
Just like Fox News, the Hungarian
tician and writer, once wrote that
democracy was threatened when the
cause of the nation became separated
from the cause of liberty. That has
already happened in Hungary, and
next, we’ll help you
certainly lose the nationwide popular
vote in the House elections. Yet if they
still hold on to their majority — thanks
to partly to voter suppression — party
leaders will take it as an endorsement
there are alarming signs — signs that I
never expected to see — in the United
States.
Conservative parties, wherever they
are, should by all means push for the
make sense of it.
of their strategy. They will have paid political changes they favor, be it less
no political price for their power grab.
They will be tempted to go further —
to suppress more votes, use more
immigration, more public religion,
lower taxes on the rich or almost any-
thing else. But win or lose, those con-
Newspaper subscription offer:
racism, cover up more scandals and
violate more democratic rules and
servative parties also need to accept
the basic rules of democracy.
Save 66% for three months.
customs. When they instead subvert those
The United States won’t suddenly rules, I hope that citizens — including
become Hungary. We start from a conservatives — have the courage to
much stronger place. But our democra- resist. In Hungary, it is no longer easy
cy will suffer. And democracies can to do so. In the United States, this
In unpredictable times, you need journalism that cuts through
deteriorate more quickly than people week will help determine the health of the noise to deliver the facts. A subscription to The New York
often realize. ALEX NABAUM our democracy.
Times International Edition gives you uncompromising reporting
that deepens your understanding of the issues that matter,
and includes unlimited access to NYTimes.com and apps for

American Jews know this story smartphone and tablet.

HORN, FROM PAGE 8 repeated in the holy books. you: the first responders who rushed
concrete barriers sprouted in front of When Ms. Mallinger was 97, she and to your rescue, the neighbors who
my family’s synagogue, police cruisers 10 other Jews were murdered in their overwhelmed evil with kindness, the
parked in the lot. This felt practical in a synagogue. There are words for this Americans of every background who
nation on edge; we assumed it affected
everyone. As my children were born
too, a Hebrew phrase for 2,500 years’
worth of people murdered for being
inspire more optimism than Jewish
history allows. May this country com-
Order the International Edition today at
and grew, the barriers and guards
became their normal. When I took my
Jews: kiddush hashem, death in sancti-
fication of God’s name.
fort you, with its infinite promise.
As George Washington vowed in his
nytimes.com/discover
children to an interfaith Thanksgiving My children were right: This story is 1790 letter to a Rhode Island syna-
service at a church down the street old, with far too many words. Yet they gogue, America shall be a place where
from our synagogue, one of them were wrong about one thing. In the old “every one shall sit in safety under his
asked me why no one was guarding stories, those outside the community own vine and fig tree, and there shall
the door. rarely helped or cared; our ancestors’ be none to make him afraid.” Those
In the years that followed, the inter- consolation came only from one an- words aren’t his. They’re from the
net suddenly allowed anyone to say other and from God. But in this horrific Hebrew prophet Micah, on the shelves
whatever he wanted, rewarding the week, perhaps our old words might of every synagogue in the world.
most outrageous from every political mean something new. This week in synagogue as always,
stripe. Soon, comments sections be- When they return to synagogue, we read from the scroll we call the Tree
came an open sewer, flowing with mourners will be greeted with more of Life, and the place will comfort us.
centuries-old garbage — and as social ancient words: “May God comfort you As we put the book away, we repeat
media exploded, those comments among the mourners of Zion and Jeru- the words from Lamentations: “Renew
scaled up to the open vitriol of the past salem.” In that verse, the word used for our days as of old.” Offer expires December 31, 2018 and is valid for new subscribers only. Hand delivery subject to confirmation
few years. To young Jews this felt God is hamakom — literally, “the by local distributors. Smartphone and tablet apps are not supported on all devices.
confusing. To old Jews it must have felt place.” May the place comfort you. DARA HORN is the author of five novels,
familiar, a memory passed down and May the people in this place comfort most recently “Eternal Life.”
..
10 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION

Business
Farmers hope for trade deal before crops rot
sociation. By undermining that reputa-
ARTHUR, N.D.
tion, he said, “We have done long-term
damage to the industry.”
The last two decades were a fat sea-
China’s retaliatory tariffs son in the soybean belt. The grain silos
and pickup trucks in Cass County are
on U.S. soybeans hit shiny and new. Mr. Karel said a signifi-
a once-thriving industry cant number of the farmers who sell
crops to his company had done so well
BY BINYAMIN APPELBAUM that they had purchased winter homes
around Phoenix.
This is harvest season in the rich farm- But the mood is souring quickly. Mr.
lands of the eastern Dakotas, the time of Gebeke’s wife, Debra, a retired psychol-
year Kevin Karel checks his computer ogist, has returned to work at North Da-
first thing in the morning to see how kota State University, to counsel dis-
many of his soybeans Chinese compa- traught farmers. Public health officials
nies have purchased while he was sleep- in North Dakota, already confronting a
ing. recent rise in suicides, are concerned
Farmers here in Cass County, N.D., about the impact of falling prices, partic-
have prospered over the last two dec- ularly on younger farmers with high lev-
ades by growing more soybeans than els of debt.
any other county in the United States Mr. Gebeke, 65, recalled President
and by shipping most of those beans Jimmy Carter’s decision to suspend
across the Pacific Ocean to feed Chinese wheat sales to the Soviet Union in 1979.
pigs and chickens. The embargo ended two years later but,
But this year, the Chinese have all but by then, the Soviets were getting more
stopped buying. The largest market for of their grain from Ukraine. Speaking of
one of America’s largest exports has the soybean standoff, he said, “They
shut its doors. The Chinese government could get together tomorrow and iron
imposed a tariff on American soybeans this thing all out and I don’t think we’ll
in response to the Trump administra- ever get all of our market back.”
tion’s tariffs on Chinese goods. The lat- As China swallows the world’s supply
est federal data, through mid-October, of non-American soybeans, other coun-
shows American soybean sales to China tries are buying more beans from the
have declined by 94 percent from last United States, especially European na-
year’s harvest. tions that usually import beans from
Mr. Karel, the general manager of the Brazil.
Arthur Companies, which operates six Some nations that grow soybeans,
grain elevators in eastern North Dako- like Canada, are shipping their own
ta, has started to pile one million bushels beans to China at high prices and then
of soybeans on a clear patch of ground buying American beans at lower prices
behind some of his grain silos. The big to meet domestic demand. Taiwan,
mound of yellowish-white beans, al- seeking to curry favor, signed a deal to
ready one of the taller hills in this flat buy more American soybeans over the
part of the world, will then be covered next two years.
with tarps. None of this is nearly enough. During
The hope is that prices will rise before PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN KOECK FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES the first six weeks of the current export
the beans rot. Above left, a hill of soybeans being stored in Casselton, N.D., where exporters wait for a price increase. Right, the Arthur Companies’ grain facility in Pillsbury, N.D. Below, from year, which began in September, Ameri-
“We’re sitting on the edge of our seat,” left: Soybeans being delivered to a grain elevator; a board showing the status of bins in the grain elevators; and harvesting soybeans near a wind farm. can soybean exports to China are down
Mr. Karel said. by about six million tons from last year,
President Trump sees tariffs as a tool while soybean exports to the rest of the
to force changes in America’s economic world are up by only three million tons.
relationships with China and other ma- Some analysts predict China will be
jor trading partners. His tough ap- forced to buy more American beans af-
proach, he says, will revive American in- ter it exhausts other sources. Others are
dustries like steel and auto manufactur- hopeful that China and the United States
ing that have lost ground to foreign ri- will reach a deal to remove the tariffs.
vals. But that is coming at a steep cost But waiting carries risks. Soybeans
for some industries, like farming, that can spoil, and Brazil harvests its crop in
have thrived in the era of globalization the spring, creating fresh competition
by exporting goods to foreign markets. for American beans. “Hope is unfortu-
China and other trading partners hit nately a terrible marketing plan,” said
with the tariffs, including the European Nancy Johnson, executive director of
Union, have sought to maximize the po- the North Dakota Soybean Growers As-
litical impact of their reprisals. The Eu- sociation.
ropean Union imposed tariffs on bour- The industry continues to seek new
bon, produced in Kentucky, the home markets. Jim Sutter, chief executive of
state of the Senate majority leader, they trust Mr. Trump to negotiate in the North Dakota’s soybean industry was duction of soybeans increased, compa- keting programs like trade missions to the U.S. Soybean Export Council, said he
Mitch McConnell, and on Harley-Da- nation’s interest. Mr. Karel said many of created by Chinese demand for the nies spent millions of dollars on larger China and research intended to con- was focused on persuading Indians to
vidson motorcycles, from Wisconsin, his customers wear red “Make Ameri- beans, which are crushed to make feed grain elevators, on the 110-car trains vince Chinese farmers that pigs raised eat more chicken.
the home state of House Speaker Paul can Great Again” caps and insist that for animals and oil for human consump- that carry the soybeans west to the Pa- on American soybeans grow faster and The Trump administration said in Au-
Ryan. China's decision to impose tariffs the pain of lost business and lower prof- tion. cific Coast, on bigger terminals at the fatter. In 2015, North Dakota soybean gust that it would distribute $3.6 billion
on soybeans squeezes some of Mr. its is worthwhile. They say they’ll suffer China is by far the world’s largest im- ports. A few years ago, Mr. Gebeke farmers footed the bill for an event in to soybean farmers to offset the decline
Trump's staunchest supporters across now so their children benefit later — porter of soybeans. The country con- traded his grain drill, used to plant Shanghai honoring the 10 “most loyal” in market prices. The subsidy rate of
the Midwestern farm belt. echoing the argument Mr. Trump has sumed 110 million tons of soybeans in wheat, for a second machine to plant buyers of American soybeans. 82.5 cents per bushel, however, covers
Like most successful American ex- made. 2017, and 87 percent of those beans were soybeans. The soybean industry’s sales pitch less than half of the losses facing North
ports, soybeans are produced at high ef- Others are less enthusiastic. Greg imported — the vast majority from ei- The Arthur Companies in 2016 emphasized the reliability of American Dakota farmers at current market
ficiency by a small number of workers Gebeke, who farms 5,000 acres outside ther Brazil or the United States. While opened a drying, storage and loading fa- infrastructure and the political stability prices.
using cutting-edge technologies, like Arthur with two of his brothers, said he soybeans are grown throughout the cility that can hold 2.7 million bushels of of the United States. The message was Brandon Hokama, whose family
tractors connected to satellites so the struggled to understand the administra- Midwest, the soybean fields of North beans waiting for the next train. that the Chinese could be confident that farms 3,500 acres near Ellendale, N.D.,
optimal mix of fertilizers can be spread tion’s goals. Dakota are the part of soybean country Soybean farmers also spent millions American farmers would deliver high estimates that they need a price of $8.75
on each square foot of farmland. The “I’m trying to follow and figure out that is closest to the Pacific Ocean, and of dollars cultivating the Chinese mar- quality soybeans. per bushel of soybeans to break even.
United States exported $26 billion in who the winners are in this tariff war,” so its beans are mostly sent to China. ket. Farmers in North Dakota and other “I’ve been to China 25 times in the last Last year at this time, soybeans could be
soybeans last year, and more than half Mr. Gebeke said. “I know who one of the In the mid-1990s, there were 450,000 states contribute a fixed percentage of decade talking about the dependability sold for almost $10 per bushel. Now, lo-
went to China. losers are, and that’s us. And that’s acres of soybeans in the state. Last year, revenue to a federal fund called the of U.S. soybeans,” said Kirk Leeds, the cal elevators are offering prices below
Some farmers in North Dakota say painful.” there were 6.4 million. As the state’s pro- “soybean checkoff” that pays for mar- chief executive of the Iowa Soybean As- $7.

The day Finns find out who’s up and who’s down


normal people and those rich, rich peo- cover the release of the data, and com- that “it is our turn to give something
HELSINKI, FINLAND
ple — is it getting too wide?” said Tuomo petition for computer terminals in the back.”
Pietilainen, an investigative reporter at tax administration building is so intense This, said Onni Tertsunen, a graduate
Helsingin Sanomat, the country’s larg- that there was once a scuffle, which ev- student at a downtown Helsinki cafe, is
On ‘Jealousy Day,’ est daily newspaper. eryone agreed was totally un-Finnish. the kind of rich person Finns like. “He’s
“When we do publish the figures, the Many journalists have little love for really humble,” he said. “That’s the
the authorities disclose people who have lower salary start to the task. “I don’t see the point of calling thing in Finland, to be humble. If you
everyone’s taxable income think, ‘Why do my colleagues make up semi-ordinary people and asking show it around, no one likes you.”
more?’” he said. “Our work has the ef- they why they made so much money,” There are, of course, manifold other
BY ELLEN BARRY
fect that people are paid more.” one grumbled. uses for income tax data. Tuomas
Employers, he said, “have to behave One of the great sports of National Rimpilainen, a crime reporter, said he
Shortly after 6 a.m. on Thursday, people better than in conditions where there is Jealousy Day is to publicly shame tax sometimes looked up the salaries of his
began lining up outside the central office no transparency.” dodgers. professional competitors before asking
of the Finnish tax administration. It was A large dosage of the reporting last In 2015, Mr. Pietilainen found that ex- his boss for a raise. (It worked.)
chilly and dark, but they claimed their week concerned the income of minor ce- ecutives from several of Finland’s larg- “I’ve looked up my relatives,” said a
places, eager to be the first to tap into a lebrities, and one journalist moaned at est firms had relocated to Portugal so colleague, Markku Uhari.
mother lode of data. the thought of profiling another beauty that they could receive their pensions “And my bosses,” Mr. Rimpilainen
In Spain, Pamplona can boast of the pageant winner, noting that, “usually, tax free. His reporting caused such a stir said.
running of the bulls, Rio de Janeiro has they are broke as hell.” The country’s that the Finnish Parliament terminated “No one likes to admit they do it,” said
Carnival, but Helsinki is alone in observ- best-known porn star, Anssi “Mr. its tax agreement with Portugal, negoti- another reporter, Lassi Lapintie. “But
DMITRY KOSTYUKOV FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
ing “National Jealousy Day,” when ev- Lothar” Viskari, was reported to have ating a new one that closed the loophole. everyone has done it.”
ery Finnish citizen’s taxable income is earned 23,826 euros (about $27,000), of On Nov. 1, some tabloids often assign up to half their editorial staff to cover the release What may sting more in Finland, said For all the attention from the news
made public at 8 a.m. sharp. which €7,177 was capital gains. of citizens’ taxable income at the Finnish tax administration office in Helsinki. Mr. Saarinen, the philosophy professor, media, the release of the tax data is not
The annual Nov. 1 data dump is the Roman Schatz, 58, a German-born au- is disapproval. really big news. “No one really conceals
starting gun for a countrywide game of thor, rolled his eyes, a little, at Finland’s “These particular executives have de- their income,” Mr. Saarinen said.
who’s up and who’s down. Which tousled annual celebration of its own honesty. reducing gender or racial disparities in ness. In 2014, Norway banned anony- stroyed their reputation,” he said. “I “No one thinks it is conceivable that
tech entrepreneur has sold his com- “It’s a psychological exercise,” he pay. mous searches, and the number of would be surprised if they didn’t care. anyone would have the nerve to live in
pany? Which Instagram celebrity is, in said. “It creates an illusion of transpar- Transparency may or may not reduce searches dropped significantly. Finland is a small society. There is a Finland and, outrageously, to avoid pay-
fact, broke? Which retired executive is ency so we all feel good about ourselves: inequality, but does tend to make people “More information may not be some- sense that as long as you’re a Finn, ing taxes,” he said. “People play by the
weaseling out of his tax liabilities? ‘The Americans could never do it. The less satisfied, several concluded. A thing which improves overall well-be- you’re always a Finn. They will show up rules, and they expect that to be the
Esa Saarinen, a professor of philoso- Germans could never do it. We are hon- study of faculty members at the Univer- ing,” said Alexandre Mas, one of the au- at Christmas at Helsinki airport, they case. It’s the default.”
phy at Aalto University in Helsinki, de- est guys, good guys.’ It’s sort of a Lu- sity of California, where pay was made thors of the University of California re- will be recognized, and they will feel it in He interrupted the interview, as sev-
scribed it as “a fairly positive form of theran purgatory.” accessible online in 2008, found that port. people’s eyes: the disrespect.” eral Finns did, to express bafflement
gossip.” Mr. Schatz warned against taking all lower-earning workers, after learning Flamboyant wealth has long been dis- Newspapers also anointed capitalist over President Trump’s refusal to re-
Finland is unusual, even among the the financial figures released publicly at how their pay stacked up, were less couraged in Finland; a line of poetry heroes on Thursday. lease his tax returns.
Nordic states, in turning its release of face value, noting that nontaxable in- happy in their job and more likely to look capturing this idea — “if you’re lucky, Especially adored are the young own- “For Finns, that is unthinkable,” he
personal tax data — to comply with gov- come, like grants or business de- for a new one. hide it” — is so beloved that it has been ers of the gaming company Supercell, said. “I don’t know if we have a law say-
ernment transparency laws — into a ductions, may not appear. A study of Norway, which made its tax set to music. who declared a total of €181 million in ing that a person seeking the office of
public ritual of comparison. Though “It makes me smile every time, be- data easily accessible to anonymous on- The government has made individual taxable income this year, and were five the president of Finland should explain
some complain that the tradition is an cause it’s my taxable income, and people line searches in 2001, reached a similar tax data accessible to the public since of the 10 top-earning citizens. how they made their money. The society
invasion of privacy, most say it has say, ‘Roman Schatz makes less than a conclusion: When people could easily the 19th century, though until recently Supercell’s 40-year-old chief execu- just expects that to happen. If it did not
helped the country resist the trend to- schoolteacher,’” he said. learn the incomes of co-workers and citizens had to pore through bulky tive, Ilkka Paananen, went out of his happen, the society would punish that
ward growing inequality that has crept Economists in the United States have neighbors, self-reported happiness be- ledgers for what they wanted. way in 2016 to express his happiness at candidate.”
across of the rest of Europe. shown great interest in salary disclo- gan to track more closely with income, Nowadays, Helsinki tabloids often as- breaking Finland’s record for capital
“We’re looking at the gap between sure in recent years, in part as a way of with low earners reporting lower happi- sign up to half their editorial staff to gains taxes, telling Helsingin Sanomat Johanna Lemola contributed reporting.
..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 | 11

business

New legal tangles for Bitcoin’s ‘first felon’


in a statement that the claims by the ally brought in an accountant who docu-
SAN FRANCISCO
Winklevoss brothers were baseless. mented the missing funds, according to
“The lawsuit erroneously alleges that court documents.
about six years ago Charlie essentially “I have been patient, and at this point
Charlie Shrem served time misappropriated thousands of Bit- it’s getting a bit absurd,” Cameron Win-
coins,” he said. “Nothing could be fur- klevoss wrote to Mr. Shrem in 2013 in an
for a drug venture; now ther from the truth. Charlie plans to vig- email quoted in the lawsuit. “I don’t take
ex-associates are suing orously defend himself and quickly this lightly.”
clear his name.” The missing currency, which was
BY NATHANIEL POPPER The lawsuit from the twins threatens worth 98 percent less at the time, ap-
another reversal of fortune for Mr. peared to have been forgotten in a
Over the last year, Charlie Shrem, a 28- Shrem, who went from being one of the broader battle between the brothers and
year-old Bitcoin investor, has bought earliest Bitcoin millionaires to being Mr. Shrem over an investment in Bitin-
two Maseratis, two powerboats — one of called Bitcoin’s “first felon.” stant.
them 32 feet long — and a $2 million When he was arrested in 2014, Mr. In 2013, Bitinstant fell apart, and the
house in Florida, along with smaller Shrem was accused by federal authori- twins blocked Mr. Shrem’s efforts to re-
pieces of real estate. ties of using his company, Bitinstant, to vive the company with new investors
In the world of cryptocurrencies, knowingly sell Bitcoin to people who because of their concerns about his
where millions can be made and lost in a wanted it to buy drugs from the online management style.
day, that might not make Mr. Shrem black market, Silk Road. By the time Mr. Shrem was arrested in
stand out. But unlike most Bitcoin en- Since his release in 2016, Mr. Shrem 2014, as a result of activities at Bitin-
trepreneurs, in 2016 Mr. Shrem got out of has said in numerous interviews that he stant that took place before the brothers
prison, where he had spent a year after recognized his past mistakes and invested, they had cut off contact with
pleading guilty to illegally helping peo- wanted to cut a new and legal path. On him.
ple turn dollars into Bitcoin to buy drugs the podcast “Death, Sex and Money,” The Winklevoss twins’ problems with
online. Mr. Shrem said that in the first months Mr. Shrem have not held them back.
Mr. Shrem, who was the chief execu- out of prison, he worked as a dishwasher Each of them were briefly cryptocur-
tive of Bitinstant, one of the first promi- and didn’t look at his email. rency billionaires last year, and they
nent Bitcoin businesses in the United Over the last year, though, Mr. Shrem have built one of the leading cryptocur-
States, has said in recent interviews that has gotten involved with a number of rency exchanges, Gemini. Despite this
he went to prison with almost no money. troubled projects. year’s big drop in cryptocurrency
So where did the money for the expen- He was among the leaders of two ef- prices, their holdings are still worth
sive toys come from? That’s what two forts — one a cryptocurrency credit nearly a billion dollars.
former business partners want to know. card and the other an initial coin offering Cameron Winklevoss said that he and
Cameron and Tyler Winklevoss, the — that had to give money back to invest- his brother decided to pursue the miss-
twins who turned money from a settle- ors after various partnerships that Mr. ing currency again after they saw Mr.
ment with Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg Shrem had promised fell through. Shrem’s recent spending patterns.
into a Bitcoin fortune, said they sus- But those are likely to be mere head- “When he purchased $4 million in real
pected Mr. Shrem had actually been aches compared with what he could face estate, two Maseratis and two power-
spending Bitcoin that he owed them in a confrontation with the Winklevoss boats, we decided it was time to get to
since 2012, according to a lawsuit un- twins. Mr. Shrem helped get the broth- the bottom of it,” Mr. Winklevoss told
sealed in federal court last Thursday. ers interested in Bitcoin in 2012 and be- The New York Times.
The Bitcoin would be worth around $32 came their first adviser in the industry. The brothers hired an investigator,
million at current prices. The twins asked Mr. Shrem to help who found that 5,000 Bitcoins were
“Either Shrem has been incredibly them amass the beginnings of what transferred in 2013 through addresses
lucky and successful since leaving pris- would become an enormous stockpile of associated with Mr. Shrem and onto the
on, or — more likely — he ‘acquired’ his cryptocurrencies, giving him $750,000 Bitcoin wallet services Xapo and Coin-
six properties, two Maseratis, two pow- to buy Bitcoin from other deep-pocketed base, according to the complaint.
erboats and other holdings with the ap- investors. Jed S. Rakoff, a judge in the Federal
preciated value of the 5,000 Bitcoin he A few months into this partnership, District Court for the Southern District
stole from” the Winklevoss twins in the twins said, they realized that Mr. of New York, approved an application
2012, the lawsuit says. Shrem had not given them all the Bitcoin the twins made in September to freeze
The judge who oversaw Mr. Shrem’s they were due. The brothers gave Mr. any funds that Mr. Shrem holds with
earlier trial has already agreed to freeze Shrem $250,000 in September 2012, but those companies.
some of Mr. Shrem’s financial assets, ac- the lawsuit says that a month later, he The court fight could cause problems
cording to court documents. delivered only around $189,000 worth of for Mr. Shrem’s latest venture, Cryp-
The lawsuit could blossom into an Bitcoin at the going price, which was to.IQ. The company, which promises
ever bigger problem for Mr. Shrem be- around $12.50. market intelligence to Bitcoin traders, is
cause an affidavit filed in court suggests The 5,000 or so missing Bitcoins be- holding a conference for customers in
that Mr. Shrem has also not paid the gov- came a point of tension between the Las Vegas this month promising “un-
ernment $950,000 in restitution that he twins and Mr. Shrem. They asked him paralleled insights from a roster of ex-
agreed to as part of his 2014 guilty plea. numerous times for an accounting of the perts at the very epicenter of the crypto
Mr. Shrem’s lawyer, Brian Klein, said GLUEKIT FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES currency he had purchased and eventu- universe.”

The market value of conservation


comes from a building with the presi- around it — the river would have re-
Economic View dent’s name on it in my hometown — mained an eyesore. There would be
the Trump Hotel and Tower on the fewer tourists there, no Apple store,
banks of the Chicago River. The tower and certainly no luxury Trump Hotel
is among the tallest buildings in Amer- and Tower. Billions of dollars of eco-
B Y AU S TA N G O O L S B E E ica. On sunny days, the giant chrome nomic value would never have existed.
T-R-U-M-P letters shine down on the Here, the public sector corrected a
The Trump administration views con- bustling riverfront crowds below. market failure. The individual compa-
servation and the environment primar- It’s an extraordinary location where nies dumping into the river were col-
ily through the lens of conflict — of city and nature and public spaces all lectively ruining the neighborhood.
business versus government. come together. On the water, architec- When the government regulated their
In this view, regulating pollution or ture cruises, party boats and kayak behavior, it ended up unlocking loads
setting aside public land means the tours weave around one another. On its of private sector value.
private sector must be losing — and banks, the River Walk has drawn Though there are many examples of
the administration says that must stop. millions of visitors and hatched a government regulations run amok, or
So the administration favors looser series of restaurants and shops, includ- of pointless public investments — and
rules on pollutants like mercury and ing the Apple Michigan Avenue store, we should eliminate them — let us not
pesticides. It has revoked the status of and multiple high-end condo buildings. forget the important situations where
prominent national monuments to The Trump building includes condo- government can prevent market fail-
allow mining and drilling on the lands, miniums listed for as much as $2.7 ures and unlock value.
and has tried to upend the Land and million (though these days many sell- A recent study by David Albouy,
Water Conservation Act. ers prefer to label Peter Christensen, and Ignacio
For 53 years, the bipartisan conser- their listings as Sarmiento-Barbieri, economists at the
vation act supported more than 40,000 Government simply 401 N. Wa- University of Illinois, was revealing.
conservation projects, including ex- regulation to bash). The researchers estimated the value of
panding national parks, wildlife ref- preserve the Yet for much of the public parks to homeowners living
uges and migration corridors, historic environment 20th century, most near them using data on 600,000
battlefields and the like, funded by a may unlock people didn’t want to homes sold in New York City, Philadel-
small fee on offshore oil drillers. The live anywhere near phia and Chicago. The study, “Unlock-
wealth for
administration first called for a 90 the river. Companies ing Amenities: Estimating Public-
percent cut to its budget and in Octo- the private dumped all manner Good Complementarity,” found that
ber, Republicans in Congress effec- sector. of unpleasant things when the crime rate in a city neighbor-
tively killed it (or, more accurately, in the water. It stank hood declined, the value of private real
chose not to renew it). up the city and poi- estate near parks soared. Investing in
The problem with this kind of “zero- soned its residents. public safety paid dividends in the
sum” thinking about business and the Environmental regulation and in- private market.
environment is that it is sometimes vestment turned around the river. The Similarly, reduced pollution and
deeply incorrect. Sometimes, in fact, cleanup was instrumental in making more national parks can be immensely
making rules more favorable to busi- the neighborhood blossom and the valuable, too. Closing a national monu-
ness can lead markets to fail and de- economy boom. ment to allow oil drilling — or termi-
stroy private sector value, while clean- If Chicago had not been forced by nating the Land and Water Conserva-
ing up pollution or protecting public the federal government to clean up the tion Fund — might help a company
spaces can unlock value in the private water beginning in the 1970s and con- make more profit in the short run. But
sector and allow it to grow. tinuing today — and had it not re- a vast array of benefits will also be T H E A R T O F F U S I O N
A rather sparkly example of this served open space and built the walk destroyed. In a direct effect, hunters,
kayakers, backpackers and visitors
will simply stop going, and the Interior
Department says these people spent
$50 billion on recreation in federal
lands last year.
But think about the broader harm Big Bang Unico Teak Italia Independent.
done by this zero-sum mentality. Ac- Created in collaboration with the Italian lifestyle
cessible public lands and vibrant wild- brand. Case in King Gold with teak bezel. In-house
life bring people to small towns and
UNICO chronograph movement. Strap made from
rural areas. They attract tourists and
give residents a reason to stay, and Kevlar carbon boating sail stitched to rubber.
give an enormous boost to the private Limited edition of 100 pieces.
sector in the very places the adminis-
tration is trying to help.
A shortsighted approach to public
assets and the environment threatens
to repeat at a national level the mis-
takes cities made when they industri-
alized waterfronts and spoiled what
could have been the crown jewels of
their landscapes. You would think that
someone whose name is on a billion-
dollar building on the banks of the BOUTIQUES
Chicago River would understand that. GENEVE • LONDON • PARIS • MOSCOW
ZURICH • LUCERNE • MUNICH • BERLIN
CANNES • ST TROPEZ • COURCHEVEL
Austan Goolsbee, a professor of eco- BRATISLAVA • BUDAPEST • PRAGUE • ISTANBUL
ALYSSA SCHUKAR FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES nomics at the University of Chicago’s
The Trump Hotel and Tower, at right, on the banks of the Chicago River, which has been Booth School of Business, was an advis-
cleaned up from its days as a polluted eyesore. er to President Barack Obama.
..
12 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION

Sports
A role model for winning off the bench
what could I do? I was frustrated for
On Pro Basketball four years, but I dealt with it. I never
said anything. But I was frustrated
with the whole deal.”
Olympic Melo has won plaudits for
BY MARC STEIN his role in helping U.S.A. Basketball
secure gold medals in 2008, 2012 and
It is the go-to comparison in N.B.A. 2016, but he’ll have to be a positive
circles whenever the subject turns to force on an N.B.A. title team like Eight-
the much-debated Carmelo Anthony ies McAdoo if he hopes to really
experiment in Houston. For years, change his on-court legacy.
Anthony’s critics have wondered: How Pinning the Rockets’ 3-5 start on
much longer will it take for him to Anthony would be unfair. For starters,
embrace off-the-bench duty, as Bob there have been no indications that
McAdoo did at 30? he’s putting up any resistance to what
No less an authority than Rockets D’Antoni has asked to him to do. Fur-
Coach Mike D’Antoni drew that precise thermore, Chris Paul missed two
parallel on opening night, volunteering games because of a suspension, while
to reporters that he hoped Anthony James Harden missed three because of
would ultimately accept it, in the same a hamstring strain as the most notable
reputation-changing manner that of multiple Houston injuries. In the
McAdoo did with the Los Angeles wake of losing the savvy wing defense
Lakers in the 1980s. provided by Trevor Ariza, as well as
“I know it’s tough,” D’Antoni said of guidance from the freshly retired
the role Houston has asked Anthony to defensive coordinator Jeff Bzdelik,
adopt at 34. But D’Antoni quickly add- Houston was ranked a feeble 21st in
ed that McAdoo’s having become a the league defensively through Sunday.
two-time champion as a Lakers re- The fact that the Rockets are allow-
serve “kind of softens it up a bit.” ing nearly 17 points more per 100 pos-
But does it? For certain? Are we sessions with Anthony on the floor
maybe underestimating the size of the only fuels the perception that Melo is
challenge involved when a former the one dragging them down. Ditto for
scoring-machine first option, like Melo the fact that Anthony’s best offensive
or Doo, is asked to change his mental- game — 24 points in a home loss to the
ity so drastically? Los Angeles Clippers on Oct. 26 —
The obvious answer: Seek out Mc- came after he filled in for the ailing
Adoo and ask him. Harden in the starting lineup.
I have always been upfront about Talking to McAdoo, though, made
my Buffalo Braves fandom, having me wonder if we know-it-alls on the
lived in Western New York for nearly outside underestimate the scale of the
all of the Braves’ existence, so I natu- experiment. It’s something to think
rally enjoy speaking to McAdoo when- about, at the very least, if the player
ever the opportunity presents itself. routinely credited for giving Melo his
Yet this conversation was not about blueprint makes that case.
paying homage to the greatest Brave “It was worth it,” McAdoo said. “But
of them all. To get a sense of the ad- MARY ALTAFFER/ASSOCIATED PRESS still, looking back, I think we would
justment Anthony is facing with the A bench role in Houston may take Carmelo Anthony, right, closer to a championship than starting in New York and Oklahoma City ever could. Bob McAdoo could give him advice. have been even better with me start-
struggling Rockets, there is perhaps no ing. You say all kinds of things like that
more qualified expert in the field to in your mind.”
talk to than McAdoo. 1981, that he had had no advance warn- mind about coming off the bench. It — but who had also found himself Nets led McAdoo to the Lakers — only As for sharing such thoughts with
He’s still a scout with the Miami ing that he would not be a starter in just happened. To me, it was a wrap I increasingly painted with the “selfish” for Jim Brewer, Mark Landsberger and Riley, McAdoo said he largely held off
Heat at 67, after many years on the Los Angeles — and that his three-plus would start. They didn’t have anyone label as injuries and ringless seasons ultimately Kurt Rambis to get turns until they were working side by side in
Heat bench as an assistant under Pat seasons with the Lakers’ second unit who could stick with me at that posi- piled up. The famed Boston Celtics starting ahead of the league’s 1975 Miami — long after the sweet-shooting
Riley, Stan Van Gundy and Erik Spoel- were harder than he had ever let on. tion.” patriarch Red Auerbach once told The most valuable player. 1970s precursor to Kevin Durant had
stra. So he is precluded by league rules “It was a great opportunity for me to Yet Riley, then coaching the Lakers, New York Times: “Bob was more “But I dealt with it,” McAdoo said, stopped playing.
from discussing Anthony or his situa- play with Kareem and Magic,” McAdoo repeatedly found a forward to start concerned with personal achievements “because I had never been on a cham- “He knows,” McAdoo said with a
tion directly. But McAdoo didn’t hesi- said. “For the first time in my career, I ahead of McAdoo, who had established than team achievements.” pionship team. And I’ve never been chuckle. “We’ve talked about it. He
tate to tell me, nearly 40 years since he had a chance to win a championship. a league record by winning three scor- Checkered stints with the Celtics, the one to cause disruption or anything knows I didn’t like coming off the
joined the Lakers on Christmas Eve in “But I had no thoughts at all in my ing titles in Buffalo before he turned 25 Detroit Pistons and the New Jersey like that. I wasn’t happy about it. But bench behind Kurt.”

NON SEQUITUR PEANUTS DOONESBURY CLASSIC 1991

GARFIELD CALVIN AND HOBBES

SUDOKU No. 0611

WIZARD of ID DILBERT
(c) PZZL.com Distributed by The New York Times syndicate
Created by Peter Ritmeester/Presented by Will Shortz

Solution No. 0511 KENKEN CROSSWORD | Edited by Will Shortz 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14


Fill the grid so
that every row,
column 3x3 box Fill the grids with digits so as not Across 37 Finish, as a cake 63 What a low-carb diet 15 16 17

and shaded 3x3 to repeat a digit in any row or 1 Like many internships 38 Profoundly wise may ban
box contains column, and so that the digits 7 Place for a massage 66 When the Hulk was
18 19 20
39 List-ending abbr.
each of the within each heavily outlined box 10 Hybrid citrus fruits born?
will produce the target number 40 Batman’s water springs? 21 22 23 24
numbers 15 “Just my luck!” 69 Indian yogurt drink
1 to 9 exactly shown, by using addition, 45 Lead-in to girl
16 Ripken with a record 70 Things requested by 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
once. subtraction, multiplication or 46 Fastener named for its bouncers
division, as indicated in the box. 2,632 consecutive
shape
games played 71 Partner on a talk show 32 33 34 35 36
For solving tips A 4x4 grid will use the digits 47 Placed coins in, as a
and more puzzles: 1-4. A 6x6 grid will use 1-6. 17 Identify someone 72 Highly competitive, say
without speaking parking meter 37 38 39
www.nytimes.com/ 73 No-frills bed
sudoku 18 Superman’s fist? 48 Carolina ___ (state bird)
For solving tips and more KenKen 74 Raises, as a flag 40 41 42 43 44
20 Wee 49 Bub
puzzles: www.nytimes.com/
kenken. For Feedback: nytimes@ 21 Forever and a day 50 Something an apiphobe
45 46 47
fears Down
kenken.com 22 Yang’s opposite
1 New edition of software
23 Forever and a day 51 Faux ___ 48 49 50 51 52 53
54 Spider-Man not minding
2 Snickers bar filling
KenKen® is a registered trademark of Nextoy, LLC. 25 Fortuneteller’s deck
his own business? 3 Hot rods? 54 55 56 57 58
Copyright © 2018 www.KENKEN.com. All rights reserved. 27 Iron Man without any
clothes? 57 “The Lord is my 4 “Am not!” reply
Shepherd” begins the 5 Text message qualifier 59 60 61 62
32 U.F.O. pilots
23rd one 6 Go against
Answers to Previous Puzzles 33 Sounds at doctors’ 63 64 65 66 67 68
checkups 59 Famed N.Y.C. nightclub, 7 Aroma
35 Shape of a plunging with “the”
8 Scathing review 69 70 71
neckline 60 Untrustworthy sort
9 Secondary identity …
36 Symbol of saintliness 62 Sailing or what can be found in 72 73 74

Solution to November 5 Puzzle 18-, 27-, 40-, 54- and


66-Across PUZZLE BY ALAN SOUTHWORTH AND YACOB YONAS
T H R O B S T O P B O W L 10 Wharton’s school, 29 Perry with the 2010 hit 43 How the Quran is 61 Silicon Valley specialty
A M I N O H A H A U V E A familiarly “Firework” written
T O O T S I E P O P R E A M 63 Lunch order that might
11 Proceeds 30 Flair 44 Cry
H O M E S E T E R N E be grilled
G A T E M A N A R E A 12 Broadway’s ___-Manuel 31 Loser to Clinton in 50 Kellogg’s Raisin ___
A R I D C A P N C R U N C H Miranda 1996 51 Leisurely strolls 64 Title role for which
S M E L T R O U E A L I 13 Networkers’ goals 34 Colorful image 52 Yankees’ division, in Jamie Foxx won an
B A S A C C E N T S P A P 14 Digs for pigs in a weather report brief
A N O K A Y E A B A S H 37 No matter what Oscar for Best Actor
19 Meet face to face? 53 Savviness
G I N G E R S N A P A L S O
24 “Cow’s Skull: Red, White 38 Crept (out), informally 55 Lecterns 65 Paranormal ability, for
R I O T R O A D M A P
I N S I T U R E N T S and Blue” artist 40 Baby deer 56 Young’s partner in short
C O N N S O U N D B I T E S 26 Phrasing so as not to 41 Spanish “other” accounting
E P I C E D N A A D O R E offend, say 67 Hoopla
42 Pac-12 team about 625 58 Greet someone
S E T H L E G S T E N E T 28 Nautical “Stop!” miles from the Pacific cordially 68 Aussie animal
..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 | 13

Culture
Nazi loot still at large
One family has recovered
a great deal, but not, so far,
an 1890 portrait by Degas
BY CATHERINE HICKLEY

The family of Paul Rosenberg, a re-


nowned Paris art dealer whose gallery
had exclusive arrangements with
Braque, Matisse and Picasso, has
worked tirelessly, with tremendous suc-
cess, to recover the 400 works the Nazis
looted from him.
That Mr. Rosenberg kept meticulous
records and purchased museum-quality
art helped the family to reclaim all but
60 pieces. The works recovered in re-
cent years include Matisse’s “Woman
Seated in an Armchair,” discovered in
the Munich apartment of the reclusive
Cornelius Gurlitt. Another Matisse,
“Woman in a Blue Dress in Front of a
Fireplace” was returned by the Henie
Onstad Art Center in Norway in 2014.
But one pastel portrait by Edgar De-
gas, an image of particular importance
to Paul Rosenberg, has proved to be
maddeningly elusive.
For decades, the family has been
tracking the pastel, “Portrait of Mlle.
Gabrielle Diot,” created in 1890. Yet ef-
forts to recover it have been repeatedly
thwarted, even though the family knows
the identity of a German dealer who has
tried several times to sell it.
International law doesn’t govern such
situations. The rights to possession rec-
ognized under German law might make
litigation difficult, experts say, and the
intervention of German officials on the
Rosenbergs’ behalf has gone nowhere.
“It has been completely frustrating,” 2018 SUCCESSION H. MATISSE/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK; HENIE ONSTAD KUNSTSENTER

said Marianne Rosenberg, Paul’s grand-


daughter and an art dealer with a
gallery in New York. “Something ap-
pears, then it disappears again, and you
lose it for another 20 years.”
Few families can match the Rosen-
bergs’ track record for getting back art
lost in the war. Though Paul Rosenberg’s
records were helpful, so were the pa-
tience and perseverance of three gener-
ations of family members whose efforts
stretch back to the waning days of the
German occupation of Paris. In August
1944, Lt. Alexandre Rosenberg of the
Free French forces stopped a train out-
side the city, only to find that it contained
many of the works that the Nazis had ART RECOVERY INTERNATIONAL

looted from his father. Clockwise from above, “Portrait of Mlle. Gabrielle Diot,” a Degas portrait taken from the Parisian art dealer Paul Rosenberg by the
Not among them was the portrait of Nazis; “Woman in a Blue Dress in Front of a Fireplace” by Matisse, among the works recovered by the Rosenberg family; and Mr.
Ms. Diot, a young woman with limpid Rosenberg next to another Matisse.
blue eyes and chestnut curls piled atop
her head. It had once hung in Paul Ro-
senberg’s study in Floirac, near Bor- Ms. Auber declined to identify the cur- berg. “I told Christian it was looted and puted works and divide the proceeds.
deaux. The dealer rented the house as a rent holder of the work, except to say advised him to have nothing to do with Even the Rosenbergs have compro-
refuge from the Nazis in 1940. After the that the portrait is now in Switzerland. it,” Mr. Morgan said by telephone. mised in the past: In 1970, Alexandre
Rosenbergs fled France, the German But she gave a brief history of the work, Angry with Mr. Hans, Mr. von Ben- Rosenberg accepted a below-market
ambassador had the portrait seized, tracing it back to a Swiss family, who theim said he returned a full-size color value compensation payment for a
along with other items, and it wound up lived in Ascona, a town on Lake Maggio- reproduction the dealer had given him. looted Degas painting that had surfaced
in the Jeu de Paume, the Paris museum re near Italy. She said the family had “I really didn’t want to have anything to in Cologne, Germany.
the Nazis converted into a warehouse bought the portrait in Paris in 1942. do with it,” he said by telephone. “Hans Marianne Rosenberg said it makes no
for pictures plundered from Jews. Mr. Hans has said he later helped used me to try to get rid of this pastel.” sense to pay for the return of a looted
The family did not know the portrait’s them broker its sale in 1974 to the cur- Selling the portrait is difficult because work, especially when the holder has
whereabouts until 1987, when it turned rent holder. No subsequent sale seems it is listed on several international data- tried to sell it, knowing it was stolen.
up in the catalog of a Hamburg art to have occurred, despite the catalog bases of looted art. “I cannot understand on any level
dealer, Mathias Hans. Marianne’s listing in 1987. Mr. Marinello said he reached out to why a family that has been looted by the
mother, Elaine Rosenberg, spoke to Mr. But Mr. Marinello said he learned by Mr. Hans again in 2016, asking him to re- Nazis should have to pay to get its prop-
Hans on the phone, but the conversation chance that the dealer had tried to sell veal the name of the holder of the por- erty back,” Ms. Rosenberg said. “Are we
did not go well, said Christopher A. Ma- the portrait again in 2003. A German trait, but Mr. Hans again declined. So Mr. supposed to buy back what we own? We 2018 SUCCESSION H. MATISSE/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK

rinello, the founder of Art Recovery In- businessman, Christian von Bentheim, Marinello tried a new tack, writing to want our looted work back. Full stop.
ternational, based in London, which is told Mr. Marinello that he had been ap- the German Culture Ministry asking the There is no excuse for this behavior and a stolen work, it also stipulates that theft persuade the dealer to cooperate, to at
working with the family. proached by Mr. Hans and asked if he government to intervene to recover the this unwillingness to return this work, claims should be made within 30 years. least provide a name of the current hold-
Mr. Hans wanted the Rosenbergs to could help facilitate a discreet private portrait. A ministry official contacted which they know is looted.” And, after 10 years, the law recognizes er so that they could engage in direct ne-
buy back the pastel. Ms. Rosenberg re- sale of “Portrait of Mlle. Gabrielle Diot” Mr. Hans requesting that he reveal the But the family has no plans at this the possession rights of the current gotiations. But Mr. Marinello said the
fused, Mr. Marinello said, and when she for a price of about 3 million euros, or name, or contact details, of the con- time to file a lawsuit in an effort to re- holders unless it can be shown they German official told him the govern-
did, he said, Mr. Hans told her the por- about $4.6 million today. signor, Mr. Marinello said. cover the work because of the difficul- knew the work had been stolen when it ment could do no more.
trait would be returned to the consignor Mr. von Bentheim, who had no experi- Mr. Hans said his client wanted the ties involved. was purchased. “Ultimately, we would like to be rid of
and she would never get it back. ence in art dealing, said in an interview Rosenbergs to refund the 3.5 million “German law is not restitution- German law would apply, lawyers the conflicted Mathias Hans and prefer
Mr. Hans declined to be interviewed that he had asked Robert Morgan, an Swiss francs ($3.5 million) that the cli- friendly,” Mara Wantuch-Thole, a said, because the dealer, whose gallery to deal with the possessor or the pos-
for this article. But his colleague, Anne artist friend of his, to look into the pastel. ent had paid for the work in 1974. Berlin-based attorney who specializes is in Hamburg, is the only person cur- sessor’s appointed legal representa-
Auber, said in an email that Ms. Rosen- Mr. Morgan said he contacted a curator Jewish heirs of looted art have agreed in such cases, said. rently identified with the work. tive,” Mr. Marinello said. “We remain
berg had insulted Mr. Hans during the friend who quickly established that the in other cases to partially compensate While German law says even a good- The Rosenbergs had hoped pressure hopeful that he or she will come forward
call. work had been stolen from Paul Rosen- good-faith buyers, or to auction dis- faith purchaser cannot pass good title to from the German government would in the near future.”

The machinery of corruption


Robot.” Heidi Bergman (Julia Roberts) at the same time. It builds momentum James brings an easy charisma to a
TELEVISION REVIEW
has just started work as a counselor at even as the first few episodes may character who’s designed to be a puz-
the Homecoming center, a privately seem to meander, and it comes togeth- zle. And Whigham (the blustery Eli in
run facility for the reintegration of er in a suspenseful thriller with an “Boardwalk Empire”), as an introvert
Julia Roberts portrays combat veterans, where she sees cli- emotional punch. more at home digging through file
ents like Walter Cruz (Stephan James), The series is adapted from a podcast folders than confronting suspects,
a compromised therapist a wry, good-natured veteran struggling by Horowitz and Bloomberg, which makes a terrific hero-nerd.
in a 10-episode series with survivor’s guilt. presented its story in a telegraphic, It takes a bureaucrat, after all, to
The Homecoming facility, set in a found-audio format: phone conversa- uncover a crime of bureaucracy, if
BY JAMES PONIEWOZIK
drab office park somewhere in Florida, tions, taped counseling sessions, voice that’s what’s afoot here. Like the tech-
is just there to help soldiers get on with messages. This version finds a TV focused “Mr. Robot,” “Homecoming” is
Sam Esmail’s “Mr. Robot” is one of the life. You’ll quickly supply the “ . . . or is correlative for that approach, con- about the relation of individuals to
most audacious, inventive TV dramas it?” yourself. In between sessions, structing itself largely as a series of corrupted systems. It may only take
of this decade. It is also, well, a lot. It’s Heidi fields hectoring calls from her conversations. one villain to conceive an ill deed, but
narratively and creatively maximalist, boss, Colin Belfast (Bobby Cannavale), Its heart is the sessions between when it’s legitimized through the ma-
full of subplots, conspiracies, directori- an executive for the Geist Group, the Cruz and Heidi, who develop a warm, chinery of government and business, it
al triple back flips and twist upon company running Homecoming. He is work-spouse relationship. Roberts becomes the work of many hands, like
baffling twist. more interested in extracting “data” harks back here to her crusader- Heidi’s.
Esmail directs all 10 episodes of from the vets, for some unknown pur- whistleblower roles (“Erin Brocko- Often those people do what the
“Homecoming,” a cerebral thriller new pose, than helping them. vich,” “The Pelican Brief”), but with a soldiers treated at Homecoming do:
on Amazon, but he didn’t write it; it’s Esmail’s signature style leaps at you JESSICA BROOKS/AMAZON PRIME VIDEO reserved, layered performance. Heidi They repress; they deflect; they crate
the creation of Eli Horowitz and Micah immediately: the god’s-eye overhead Julia Roberts in “Homecoming” as a counselor for war veterans. needs to work and wants to do good, up their feelings in a box. They tell
Bloomberg. Visually and thematically, shots, the image composition that puts and she realizes, with slowly dawning themselves what Heidi’s mother tells
it plays like a lean, focused distillation you productively off-balance, the horror, that those aims are in conflict. her: “People make compromises. You
of Esmail’s other series. screen titles bigger than your living terrifying than any jump scare. customer, Thomas Carrasco (Shea Cannavale breathes pushy life into did what you had to do. You took a job.”
It has the cool tone, the paranoia, the room. The most striking visual choice is Whigham) identifies himself as an Colin, who’s introduced as a stressed- Part of what “Homecoming” asks is:
visual flourishes, the mind-bending But the abundance of style serves the screen itself. The Homecoming auditor from the Department of De- out voice in split-screen phone conver- How responsible do you have to be for
revelations. But these effects are con- the substance, creating an atmosphere scenes, set in 2018, are presented in fense, investigating a complaint about sations. Even when he interacts with a thing before you’re morally responsi-
centrated on a single, intricate story, of room-tone menace. Everything typical wide-screen format. A second Homecoming. Sorry, Heidi tells him; other principals in the flesh, he’s basi- ble for it? How high up in an organiza-
laid out in 10 swift and magnetic about the Homecoming center is bland story line, four years in the future, is she has no memory of ever working cally a human Bluetooth headset, a tion?
episodes. and minimalist — “hip but masculine,” set off by black bars that squeeze the there. mouthy, Mametian bulldozer spewing In “Homecoming,” business is war
In this case, less is very much more. Colin calls the décor — and “Home- frame claustrophobically. In an age of streaming-TV bloat, coach-speak: “Heidi, you are killing it! by other means. And beyond its slick-
The plot, of which it is best to say coming” understands that anonymous In this future, Heidi is living with her “Homecoming” is five efficient hours, Fist bump!” ness and deft puzzle-story twists, this
little, involves the corporatization of spaces, euphemism and depersonal- mother (Sissy Spacek) and waiting about 30 minutes per episode. It man- James and Whigham are also im- series is a perceptive study of the
government, a favorite subject of “Mr. ized corporate-speak can be more tables at a dump of a restaurant. A ages to be deliberative and propulsive pressive in more understated roles. collateral damage.
..
14 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION

culture

FROM LEFT: THE NEW YORK TIMES; ASSOCIATED PRESS; TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES
From left, Gustav Mahler, ranked by many people among the greatest composers; Ludwig van Beethoven, often put at or near the top of classical lists; and Edvard Grieg, who was the author’s favorite when he was a child.

Swept up in a search for greatness


desperation for attention, affected me. And yet when I was a child, my first be a sad child, too, especially when, for us, and to seek reassurance that the ary-minded people want to read it, talk
A Times critic explains Today, after decades of experience with favorite composer was the Norwegian alone, I listened to recordings like this things we love are important to others, about it, maybe argue over it. But the
the piece, I still find the beginning of the Edvard Grieg, who would not make one and felt the music so deeply. too. question of whether the novelist is an-
why he compares the most “Kyrie” overwhelming. Whenever I many people’s top 10 lists. I had a re- The case for denying Grieg greatness My most brazen venture into grap- other Dickens or Proust is absurd. The
incomparable composers hear Bach’s Mass, or his other incompa- cording I adored, “Rubinstein Plays is easy. He was certainly no Beethoven pling with greatness came in 2011, with same goes for new plays, new films, new
rable works, I usually come away think- Grieg.” The main work on the album was when it came to ambitious musical my Top 10 Composers project, a two- pop groups, new television dramas.
BY ANTHONY TOMMASINI
ing that, for his matchless combination Grieg’s Ballade for Piano (Op. 24), a 17- forms. At 20, urged by a mentor, he week series of articles I wrote. Of In the end, I think of my job as bifur-
of technical mastery, ingenious musical minute score in the form of variations on wrote a symphony but soon withdrew it course, the whole project was an intel- cated. I will always be unapologetically
As a child, I was essentially alone in my engineering, profound expressivity and a bittersweet folk song. Some of the vari- and never completed another. He came lectual game, though one played seri- hooked by the reality that there is great-
passion for music. No one in my ex- unabashed boldness, Bach was the ations become quite tumultuous; the under pressure to compose a stirring ously by me and the more than 1,500 ness in music. In my reviews and other
tended family, as far as I knew, had sung greatest composer in history. piece both hooked and baffled me. Norwegian national opera and tried to readers whose comments were posted stories, I try to explain, for example,
in a chorus, played the guitar, anything. Classical music has justifiably been I especially loved the short works Ru- do it, but got no further than some choral during the two weeks. why Schubert was absolutely great;
So the basement den of our house on criticized for its obsession with great- binstein played, from Grieg’s 10 vol- scenes and sketches. He wrote the won- Some of the most interesting reac- why Debussy; why Wagner.
Long Island, outside New York City, was ness, with certifying a repertory of ca- umes of Lyric Pieces: sprightly dances, derful, if modest, Lyric Pieces, some tions came from music lovers who actu- And yet it is just as much my duty to
my private musical refuge, where I nonical masterpieces that get played songs without words that evoked wistful chamber works, a few volumes of ele- ally found the game harmful. Others, take in the music of our own time, and to
practiced the piano — a boxy old upright again and again. I, for one, go back and gant songs. His incidental music for Ib- while dismissing it as absurd, sent in help address the inequalities of the clas-
— and listened to classical records. forth about how much this quality sen’s play “Peer Gynt” was fashioned their own top 10 lists, often with injunc- sical canon, which was historically re-
I must have been about 13 when I first should matter, let alone how we should It’s natural to acknowledge into two popular orchestra suites. And tions like “Don’t you dare leave out served for white men only. Some of
heard a recording of Bach’s Mass in B determine it. music’s hold on us, and to seek there is, of course, his justly beloved Pi- Mahler!” For me, the game was also a these imbalances are finally being
Minor. About a year earlier, I had begun Take Beethoven’s Third Symphony, reassurance that the things we ano Concerto. genuine exercise in trying to be precise righted. These days, easily half the com-
studying with a new piano teacher, the “Eroica.” This music is colossal, yet A great? No. about what makes a composer’s music position majors in colleges and conser-
Gladys Gehrig, an awesome woman in also audacious and unpredictable. On
love are important to others, too. Should that matter? Absolutely not. great. The final list, as I emphasized, vatories are women. Since 2010, four of
her late 60s. A Bach devotee, Mrs. the surface, the symphony’s four move- Yet I’ve come to accept that I and other was not the point. The analysis involved the nine winners of the Pulitzer Prize in
Gehrig had me learning several of his ments seem to come from different folk tunes, character pieces with evoca- lovers of music, like lovers of any art in determining it was. Music have been women; last year’s
two-part inventions and my first prel- realms: a brisk, purposeful Allegro with tive titles like “March of the Dwarfs” form, can’t help being swept up in the (Here’s the completed list of top com- prize went to the rapper Kendrick
ude and fugue. One day she urged me to a searching development section that and “Little Bird.” My favorite was search for, and identification of, great- posers, in order: Bach, Beethoven, Mo- Lamar, for his album “DAMN.” Arbi-
get to know Bach’s Mass, which she climaxes midway in a gnashing burst of “Shepherd Boy,” with its sad melody, a ness. Your first time hearing some ex- zart, Schubert, Debussy, Stravinsky, trary divisions between classical con-
called the greatest masterpiece of all dissonant chords; a grimly imposing series of descending lyrical phrases that hilarating or mystifying work by a com- Brahms, Verdi, Wagner and Bartok.) temporary music and myriad pop and
time. Her words made me eager to hear Funeral March; a breathless Scherzo at actually seem to sigh. poser of the past — Mozart’s “Jupiter” As a ground rule, I omitted living com- jazz styles are falling away.
the piece, but also a little wary. It once godly and giddy; a romping, mis- In the middle section, the melodic line Symphony, Beethoven’s searching posers from consideration, arguing that Where the composers of today will
sounded intimidating. And the record- chievous finale that is somehow the ulti- goes through twists and generates agi- Fourth Piano Concerto, Wagner’s we are just too close to these creators to place in the pantheon seems irrelevant
ing I found — Herbert von Karajan’s full- mate statement of the heroic in music. tation. The piece sounds not like the trance-inducing “Tristan und Isolde,” have enough perspective. One of the right now. We are too close to say and too
orchestra version from 1952, on three But the movements are linked, almost song of a shepherd boy but like a depic- Stravinsky’s shattering “Rite of Spring,” most rewarding things about taking in immersed in the exciting newness of
LPs — certainly looked daunting. subliminally, by short musical motifs tion of his inner thoughts. At that young take your pick — can be as formative a music by living composers, as with new their music to care.
I don’t remember the exact moment I that run through almost every moment age, I couldn’t articulate what I was feel- moment as anything in your life. These work in any artistic field, is that ques-
put on Side One, but I remember vividly of this 50-minute score, lending it inexo- ing about this short piece. In retrospect, works, and the composers who wrote tions of the greatness of a piece, and pre- Adapted from “The Indispensable Com-
how the chorus’s three opening pleas of rable sweep and structural cohesion. I realize I must have wondered what them, become living presences; it’s na- dictions of its longevity, are irrelevant. If posers: A Personal Guide,” available this
“Kyrie eleison,” each more intense in its Talk about greatness. made this Norwegian boy so sad. I could tural to acknowledge the place they hold an exciting new novel comes along, liter- week from Penguin Press.

Bloody and beating


His gripping new book, “Heart: A a quack. Almost 30 years later, he won an adult heart every week is enough to
BOOK REVIEW
History,” had me nearly as enthralled Fun facts are sprinkled the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medi- fill a swimming pool.
with this pulsating body part as he throughout. The heart beats cine. Jauhar is at his best when writing
Heart: A History
seems to be. The tone — a physician about three billion times We go into an operating room where about the heart. At times, he veers off
excited about his specialty — takes a a young girl is having open-heart topic. I commend him for volunteering
By Sandeep Jauhar. Illustrated. 269 pp.
sharp turn from his first two memoirs.
between birth and death. surgery, tethered to a heart-lung ma- at ground zero after the 9/11 attacks,
Farrar, Straus & Giroux. $27.
The first, “Intern,” was filled with chine. Then we learn that the concept but I would have preferred hearing
uncertainty; the second, “Doctored,” death from a heart attack. for this machine began with one doc- more about the woman who suffered
BY RANDI HUTTER EPSTEIN
with disillusionment. Most chapters launch with a riveting tor’s brazen idea of connecting a pa- from stress-related heart ailments than
Jauhar hooks the reader of “Heart” scene: a patient in the thick of getting tient to another person’s blood supply. the work he did identifying bodies.
In Richard Selzer’s fictional story in the first few pages by describing his a heart transplant, say, or having open- He was inspired by the way a fetus Jauhar visited the wellness center of
“Whither Thou Goest,” a widow own health scare — an exam showed heart surgery. You feel as if you’re feeds off its mother. Six of seven cases Dean Ornish, the doctor who promoted
searches for the man who received her obstruction in the main artery feeding watching an episode of a medical ended with a death. a Mediterranean diet. I wanted to
late husband’s heart. The liver, kidney his heart. We don’t hear more about his television drama. Before we find out Eventually, the heart-lung machine know Jauhar’s expert opinion on how
and corneas were in other people, but condition again until the final chapter, what happens, Jauhar takes us back in replaced the volunteers. The machine this regime compares with others.
she needed to be with the heart. When when a further assessment reveals time to explain the discoveries that got off to a rough start, too: Seventeen Despite these quibbles, “Heart" is
she and the stranger ultimately con- premature ventricular contractions, “a made all of these advances possible. of the first 18 patients died. As one of chock-full of absorbing tales that infuse
nect, it’s as if she’s recovered lost love. mostly benign condition in which my That’s where the stories get particu- the mid-20th-century researchers fresh air into a topic that is often rele-
I, on the other hand, always consid- heart flutters or does a sort of flip-flop larly strange and captivating. remarked, “You don’t venture into the gated to textbooks or metaphors about
ered the heart a pump, much the way a when an extra, unexpected beat comes We read about Werner Forssmann, wilderness expecting to find a paved pumps, plumbing or love.
doctor explained it to Sandeep Jauhar in.” Sandwiched between his own heart who attempted one of the first cardiac road.”
during his cardiology fellowship. “In tests is his journey to understand this catheterizations in 1929. He did it on Fun facts are sprinkled throughout. Randi Hutter Epstein is the author of
the end,” the doctor said, “cardiology is organ that has mystified and fright- ASSOCIATED PRESS himself. Forssmann threaded a thin The heart beats about three billion “Aroused: The History of Hormones
mostly a problem of plumbing.” ened him ever since he was a child and Christiaan Barnard, credited with per- tube through his arm until it pierced times between birth and death; the and How They Control Just About
Jauhar quickly learned otherwise. heard about his grandfather’s sudden forming the first human heart transplant. his right atrium. Colleagues called him amount of blood that passes through Everything.”
..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 | 15

travel

Colorado high: Grinding it out on a bike trail


New 155-mile route
is linked by a network
of backcountry huts
BY ALEX SCHECHTER

The granite cliffs of Unaweep Canyon, in


the western area of Colorado, just south
of Grand Junction and about 265 miles
from Denver, are said to be some of the
oldest exposed rocks in the state —
roughly 1.5 billion years old, or a third of
the earth’s existence.
This sparse, unaltered landscape has
long been a source of fascination for ge-
ologists, mainly because of its shape.
Rather than charting a one-way course
(as with most canyons), Unaweep,
which bisects a portion of the sprawling
Uncompahgre Plateau, flows out in two
directions, with an elevated hump in the
middle, like a hose with two openings.
This makes it ideal for road bikers,
who see the bare, winding roads of Un-
aweep, and nearby Grand Junction, as
an irresistible challenge. Since the
1970s, bike enthusiasts have latched
onto Mesa County for its rich supply of
trails. Just outside town, the Colorado
National Monument makes for one of
the most spectacular, high-altitude rides
in America. (The 1985 Kevin Costner
film “American Flyers” was filmed
here.)
With the recent opening of the Grand
Junction-Moab route, a 155-mile ride
linked by a network of backcountry
huts, regular travelers can finally get a
taste of what backcountry bikers have
known about for years.
It is the latest project by the founders
of the San Juan Hut System, which be- PHOTOGRAPHS BY CAINE DELACY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

gan in 1987 with a set of five huts on the Overlooking the town of Gateway, Colo., along a recently opened bicycle trail linking Grand Junction, Colo., with Moab, Utah. The route is split between old paved highways and sections of dirt.
north face of the Sneffels Range in Col-
orado. Originally meant as an easy-to-
navigate route for intrepid skiers, the I opted to rent a Moots Routt 45 from a family of horses stood statuesque in the Store, where Joe was waiting, reading a in a high-altitude place like Colorado, is nine-mile ascent, in the cold, with the
huts with their do-it-yourself appeal Grand Junction vendor. knee-high grass. As I munched an apple paperback copy of Steinbeck’s “The the weather. On Day 3, after successfully likelihood of a storm breaking right over
soon were used by bikers, who take over We were set to go. admiring the scene, a raindrop fell on Pastures of Heaven.” Like a time cap- climbing 1,000 feet out of Paradox Val- me.
those same trails in the summer my knee; then I felt another on the back sule from the 1910s, this roadside depot ley, I hurtled down Highway 90, euphor- Joe pulled up 50 yards ahead, and
months. Today, the system commands a THE UNPREDICTABLE BACKCOUNTRY of my neck. had creaky floorboards and soda in ic to finally arrive at the Colorado-Utah when I rode up, he lowered the window
total of 16 huts, spread over hundreds of On the first morning, we left our motel in The sky was getting ready to open, glass bottles. (The storefront was used state line. We posed by the “Welcome to and stuck his head out. “Well?” he asked
square miles inside Uncompahgre Na- Grand Junction a little after 8, stopping and I still had another 30 miles to go. as a filming location for “Thelma & Lou- Colorado” sign and snacked on peanut halfheartedly, nodding toward the back
tional Forest. briefly at a Wal-Mart to buy the helmets The canyon was completely exposed, ise.”) My friend and I sat on the porch butter and jelly sandwiches we’d made seat. Begrudgingly, I packed up my bike
In May, just after this new trail offi- neither of us had remembered to bring. with no chance of shelter, or an escape and devoured a bag of chips while a Bi- that morning. and got in the car.
cially opened, I was one of the first bik- Dressed in biking shorts and long- route. Joe caught up with me near the chon Frise named Ziggy curled up in my Then, I got back on my bike, headed It’s a bittersweet feeling to give up
ers to attempt this challenging route, ac- sleeve tops, we climbed on our bikes, horse pond, but I coolly waved him on, lap. up Highway 46, and had a sense of fore- when you know your goal is unattain-
companied by my friend Joe, who left planning on covering roughly 55 miles either out of bravado or stupidity. boding as soon as I hit the saddle. The able. With a little more training, or some
halfway through the first day. (More on over seven hours. As the rain touched the earth, it un- SUDDENLY, THE END OF THE ROAD temperature was quickly dropping, the sunshine, I felt I could have tackled this
that later.) Well, that was the plan. On our ride leashed a strange panoply of smells: What’s impossible to control, especially sky was leaden, and ahead of me was a final haul into Utah.
Ahead of this trip, I had spoken with into the backcountry, which was a steep sweet sage, cinnamon, tree sap, wet
Kelly Ryan, a former ski patrol member haul, Joe started to feel the effects of the rock and an herbal, hay-like scent. Pick-
and the daughter of Joe Ryan, who high altitude almost immediately: the ing up speed, I yelled freely at the trees.
founded the San Juan Huts System in blazing sun and arduous uphill climb Every part of me was soaked. In the tu-
1987. According to Ms. Ryan, the Grand mult of the half-storm, I found myself to-
Junction-Moab route, though challeng- tally opened up and alive.
ing, is “beginner friendly.” While this The stars were as crisp as the
tour involves long days, the terrain itself lights on a pinball machine. ON THE MENU: FUSILLI WITH TUNA
is nothing a newbie — even someone
who’s never been on an overnight cy-
cling trip — can’t handle, she said. Plus,
the relative absence of cars on this route
had spooked him. So we decided on a
new plan: He would go back to the Toy-
Pulling off Highway 141 that first after-
noon, we rode down a driveway of red
dirt that led to a lush green meadow.
There, in the flickering shade of cotton-
INTERNATIONAL
makes things more manageable. Typi-
cally, busy highways represent a hazard
for road biking. “You’re more likely to
ota 4Runner rental we’d left in Grand
Junction, and shadow me as we made
our way to our first overnight stop, as
wood trees, was the hut. It was about the
size of two garden sheds and painted
pink. There was no shower, but the out-
LUXURY CONFERENCE
NOVEMBER 12–13, 2018
get hurt mountain biking, but you’re much of the route is accessible to both house (also pink) had an interesting set-
more likely to die road biking,” Ms. Ryan bikers and drivers. (Though not an ex- up. Built at the top of a staircase, and en-
said. pert biker myself, I ride every day in Los closed by large screened windows, the
This didn’t exactly inspire confidence, Angeles.) open-air toilet almost had the feel of a

HONG KONG
but then again, this wasn’t a road biking As I continued on, the weather was treehouse.
trip, per se. The route is split between becoming uncooperative. Huffing my The meadow surrounding the hut ran
old paved highways and sections of dirt, way up through the eastern entrance of to the base of a thousand-foot-tall red
and because of that, the route is techni- Unaweep Canyon, the sun was bright. rock pyramid — Colorado’s version of a
cally classified as a gravel grinder tour.
While mountain biking is often seen
as too dangerous, and road biking has a
reputation for being a little dull, gravel
By the time I got into the canyon’s pine-
and juniper-crested main thoroughfare,
clouds were darkening.
Nearing Unaweep Divide, the top-
skyscraper — which dominated the
landscape. There was a rushing creek,
too. Before dinner (fusilli pasta with red
sauce and some black olives and tuna),
WHAT’S NEXT:
grinders offer a middle way. Their tires
are thick, but more pressurized than
mountain bikes, and they are more sta-
ble in their frames. On a route like this,
most point of the canyon (elevation
7,048 feet), I passed a rambling farm-
house with a burned-out tractor in the
yard. Dogs barked at me periodically
Joe and I wandered over and stared at
the swirling green-brown eddy.
In the Bikers Bible, a 28-page docu-
ment emailed to travelers after the
THE NEW LUXURY
which involves long distances and
rolling landscape on some unpaved
roads, a gravel grinder can really shine.
through the cottonwood trees. The road
was smooth and relatively flat. At one
point, I stopped near a pond where a
booking is made (in it, there are instruc-
tions on everything from what clothes to
pack to how to use the propane tank),
smartphones are discouraged, out of re-
WORLD (DIS)ORDER
spect for other “hut mates” who might
be seeking an escape. We didn’t encoun- This November, Vanessa Hosted by:
ter another soul during our stay, but in Friedman and The New York
such an awe-inspiring place, the Times will bring together top
Vanessa Friedman Cédric Charbit
thought of checking my email or texts Fashion Director C.E.O.
C.E.O.s, policy makers,
never crossed my mind. The New York Times Balenciaga
entrepreneurs, celebrities
When I woke up in the middle of the
and thought leaders at the
night, responding to the call of nature, I
International Luxury
Speakers include: Michael Evans
strapped on my headlamp, stumbled President
outside, and then promptly switched it Conference in Hong Kong. Remo Ruffini Alibaba Group
off. Above me, the stars were as crisp Chairman and C.E.O.
and detailed as the lights on a pinball In these tumultuous times, Moncler S.p.A.
machine. I stood there in a trance before luxury’s decision makers are
Scott Malkin
recalling the real reason I’d come out. Founder and Chairman
The next morning, after departing the
facing challenges that continue Daniela Riccardi Value Retail P.L.C.
tiny town of Gateway, the road opened
to transform their industry — C.E.O.
up into a vast avenue of towering sand- from constant technological Baccarat
evolution to what’s next for
Joann Cheng
stone cliffs and scorching red earth — Chairman, Fosun
“road runner country,” as the locals call China, India and the West to Patrice Louvet Fashion Group and
it. the pervasive demand for President and C.E.O.
Parts of the route follow the Dolores Chairman, Lanvin
transparency and moral equity. Ralph Lauren
River, a tributary of the Colorado. The Corporation Principal Sponsor
water, which was recently melted snow,
was absolutely frigid. Still, that didn’t
Through interviews with
stop Joe and me from tearing off our powerful and influential figures,
clothes when we came to a suitable pull- Friedman and her colleagues
off, and wading in for a refreshing, icy, will explore how luxury
dip. A few trucks roared by on the high- companies can win in a world Headline &
way beside us, but mostly the traffic was where the only constant is Gala Dinner Sponsor

nonexistent. change, and the biggest risk


The next part got tricky, however.
Having planned to reconvene with Joe
is taking no risk at all. Sponsors

at an overlook 15 miles ahead, I was left


on my own to begin the arduous climb
up from the river.
By that point it was the middle of the
afternoon — and it was hot. With the sun
Apply to attend:
beating down, each new bend in the road nytluxury.com Powered By:
made a fresh demand on my poor quad-
riceps and knees. I felt like I was barely
keeping up. Supporting Organizations
Eventually, I emerged at the edge of
an arid wasteland, spat out the other
end of the wrinkled, sky-reaching me-
sas. I needed a refreshment, and luckily,
The Bedrock General Store, which made an appearance in “Thelma and Louise.” 10 miles ahead, there was the Bedrock
..
16 | TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION

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