Mastering the NARROW HEMMER This pesky presser foot easily delivers precise narrow hems, once you teach it who's boss by Carol Laflin Anles shard to imagine a more basic consistency in width orinaccuracy sional approach: using one of the or useful edge finish than the in stitching quite obvious, Patiernnarrow-hemming presser feet aval: narrow hem. You see it every instruetions for these hems usual- able for my sewing machine, where: on most blouses and ly read somethinglike: “Turn edge Like many sewers, 1 was at first shirts, many linings, sheer or under in. press, stiteh near fold, frustrated with these fet. But per. circular skirts, a5 well as on trim to % in., then turn under, — sistence and practice paid olf, and scarves, ruffles, napkins, table- press, and stitch again." After many it has become clear to me that us- cloths, and handkerchiefs. But for unsuccessful attempts to do this ing afoot isthe only way to go. In alts simplicity this tiny detail can without burning my fingertips andthe photos here and on the follow- be very challenging to make well, producing uneven, amateurish re- ing pages, Ill show you in detail us very narrowness makes any in- sults, I decided to try the profes- how to choose the appropriate fot, 36 ANATOMY OF THE NARROW HEMMER Regarcless of manufacturer, all narrow hemmers have the components below. Top view The groove | The wiath ofthe bottom groove determines hom width allows the | Many narrow hemmers come in three widths, 2mm, 4mm, and foct 0 ride 8mm, which denotes the width ofthe groove on the bottom of the smoothly over | foot and the her it produces. the finished shed mm 4mm 6mm Best for curves; for Best allaround Best on medium: to tiny, narow hems for crossing seams medium-hoavy fabrics; con lightweight on lightweight for erossing seams on fabrics ‘abrics. above fabrics. ° € The eur! folde the fabric edge. ' The toe guides the hems outer edge. THREADSStarting a narrow hem Begin away from a comer if possible. 41. Trim edge; a olay 3. Position the pinned hem under the hemmer with the outer edge against the toe and lower the presser foot cutter is ideal fortis 2, Form @ hem (with the fabric wrong side up) the seme width as the channel ‘on the underside of the narrow hemmer by folding the fabric edge over twice where the narrow hem is to begin. Pin parallel to the edge 4A. Take two to three stitches, turning the fwheel toward you by hand, near the inside folded hem edge and just let of the pin. Stop withthe needle down, lit the presser fool, anc wy ‘Match hem width to groove width a | a i J, ||| | sendin tae egeino the 6:Lower the rset nd begin ssh U | ‘curl of the hemmer, pulling gently slowly, pulling the thread tails gently toward the Width of =width’ = %width of Under foot december/ionvory 2002 37Keep your fabric feeding smoothly, functions provided by the presser hem” fet, and stll others refer to deal with crossing sams, comers, feet called “hemmers” But because them as “shell herimers.” Regatd and other typical hemming situa- son turers offer different less of how manufacturers use these tions, and how to achieve decora- feet forthe various functions, while terms, here's how I define them: tive hemming eects, Butbefore we others provide a multifunctional +A narrow hemmerisa foot of any Plunge in, ler's clarify some terms, foot, many firsttime users start off width designed to fld a fabric edge and consider a few basic poimts confused, and may actually betry- over twice and stitch it down flat, about fabric choice and handling. ing to use the wrong fot. To make with a straight stitch positioned things even more confusing, there's along the inside fold. Ahemmer by hho standardized terminology for +A rolled hemmeralso folds an edge any other name... naming these feet Some companies over twice, but it uses a centrally Asyoull see on these pages, there's call their hemmers “narrow hem- positioned zigeag stitch to pill the 4 small but distinctive range of mers," others use the term "rolled- fold into tight, round, rolled edge, Always guide the fabric with two hands The right hand guides Use your right hand to guide the edge into the foot. Keep the fabric slightly ised against the cur. ‘The loft hand feeds Use your lett hand to control the wiath and position of the fabric in the foot Common left-handed feeding problems W necessary, remove stitchestto the last correct section and stat again Gap between the fabric andthe Fabric sipping under the toe: Not enough fabric being fed for Too much fabric being toerThe hem wor't form, or the The hem von! form, orthe aw the hem: The raw edge wil not be fed into the curl: The hem aw edge wil not be folded under. edge will not be folded under. folded under, wil be too thick and ‘excess fabric wll protrude fom the hem. 38 THREADS