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PM01 Bolter 9mm Luger Carbine
PM01 Bolter 9mm Luger Carbine
For Educational Purposes Only! I’m not responsible, in any shape or form, for the acts of
others.
For those who do not know, the PM-01 (Petr Malik-gun #01) “Bolter” is the creation
of Petr Malik (a.k.a. Halik). The “Bolter” in PM-01 signifies the 35 plus screws used in its
design instead of permanent welds. It is chamber in 9mm Luger (9X19 for our European
friends) and utilizes modified Sten MKIII SMG bolt, magazine well and 32 round magazines.
Basic Specs:
PPsH or other Stock ( I prefer the AR style that has a pistol grip attached to the
stock) I found some cheap over folders that suit well..
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=102334700
24” section-1.5” X 1.5” X .065-.120 (I use .072 UK size)) Square Tube (Upper
Receiver) Try to get high tensile or 4130
12” section-1” X 1” X .60-.120 (I use .065) Square Tube (Lower Receiver)
4 pcs.-1.5’ X 1.5’ X ½” Square A-2 Tool steel blocks (Trunions)
2 pcs.- 9” hardened rods (Dual Guide Rods) I use drill rod 5/32” but a lot will suit.
1 in. “U” pipe bracket (Trigger Guard)
½” dia plumbers piper (black pipe) (barrel spaces)
Dremel and all the useful accessories like cut off wheel, grinding stones, etc.
A Good set of files, and drill bits (use good drills I prefer cobalt and can send these.),
sand paper, etc.
Drill Press (very useful, I used a $99 GMC one)
5/8” Drill Bit, 27/64” Drill Bit.
Propane/LPG/butane torch & silver solder kit.
Stainless Steel Screws: 10-32, ¼, 6-32, 8-32
Locktite adhesive
For those who are wondering right now, no this is not step by step machinist’s instructional
manual but rather a general “how to” with only general dimensions given and the rest is up to
you. You don’t have to follow all the dimensions to the point, the dimensions is just what I
chosen since it fitted my need,
Upper Receiver:
1. Take the 1.5” Square Tube and cut it to 17.25 inches. Then marked off 8 inches from one
end of the tube, this is you action part of the upper receiver, the rest is the barrel
sleeve/shroud.
2. Ejection Port: Cut 1.25LX0.75W rectangular ejection port approx 7/8” behind the 8” mark
on the action part of the receiver. (See Pics)
3. Magazine Well Port: Get hold of Sten SMG template and cut out the magazine well cut-out.
Tape it on approx. ½” from the 8” mark on the action side and cut out.
4. Grind the semi-circular top of Sten magazine well down to flat so it can be fitted to the
upper receiver. Temporarily secure the mag well to the upper receiver with a silver solder.
5. FCG Port: Cut 2.5LX0.50-.75W rectangle FCG port approx. 3.5” from the 8” mark. Then
action part part of the Upper Receiver is now 90% finished. (See Pics)
6. Barrel Sleeve Slots: The number of slots and their relative size is really up to you. Just don’t
forget that the trunion block is milled on the Mini UZI barrel 6” from the breech, so if you
have a gap 6” from the 8” mark on the barrel side of the receiver you will have to add a spacer
made from the ½ dia. black pipe. In my case, I went for 3 equally spaced, equally long slots all
the way around the tube, 5/8” in width. I also had to add ½” spacer between the trunion and
barrel block.(See Pics)
7. Bolt Handle Slot: You going to have to hold off on this one until you have the bolt fitted
inside the action to get the right distance from the top, but the slot should be 4LX0.25W and
5/8” from the 8” mark. (See Pics)
8. Rear Receiver Slant: Cut right triangles on left and right side of the receiver .75” vertical
and 1” horizontal. Cut it so that the horizontal cut is flat with the inner top side of the receiver;
DO NOT cut the top side of the receiver yet. Now make a relief cut on the inside of the top side
to make it bend easier. Heat it up with propane torch and bend to match the slant. Now cut the
top side 1-2mm after the bend. (See Pics)
9. Barrel Trunion Holes: Again, no rocket science here. There are two holes per side for 10-32
screws. Each is 3/8” from the edge. I played it safe and put 2 on each side but you could have
easily put one on each side or combination 1&2.
10. Rear Action Trunion Holes: Two holes on the bottom side 3/8” from the edge for 8-32
screws. One hole on each sides approx. 3/8” from the bottom
11. Rear Slant Cover: Cut 2”long flat piece from the remaining 1.5” square tube as described
in step #8. Make a relief cut and bent it to fit the slang as best as possible. Cut the excess. Drill
two for 6-32 screws to attach to the rear action trunion. (See Pics)
Steps: #2, #5
#6, #7
#8, #11
Lower Receiver:
3. Pin Holes for FCG: Get hold of ak-47 template, I used one from Ace. Cut off the area with
the hammer and trigger pins, LEAVE OFF the FA sear pin. Align and tape it onto the lower
receiver so that the center of the trigger pin is 3/8” off the bottom edge.
4. Trigger Slot: Cut 5/8”X5/8”square trigger slot 2.75” from the muzzle end of the lower
receiver.
5.Hammer: Grind the pin sleeves to fit the lower. Cut off the wing of the 2nd hook (useless) and
minize the size of the 1st hook wing (do that after to put the FCG inside the lower). LEAVE the
disconnector untouched. (See Pics)
9. Upper to Lower Lock; Take the upper and align it with the lower. The lower should hit the
mag. well at the magazine release line. Cut a ¼” long notch from each side into the M.W.
wrap-around when the two meets all the way through the wrap-around. Now cut inletting in
the lower receiver to clear the wrap-around and the bras button. (See Pics).
10. Upper to Lower Screw: Clamp the lower and upper together and drill a hole for 10-32 tap
through all three sides approx 0.75” from the mag. well. Tap only the bottom side of the lower
and re-drill the two holes in the upper to clear the 10/-32 screw. Also while the two are clamp
together finish the rear Upper to Lower screw. Drill and tap a hole for ¼ screw centered in the
buttstock stud tru-hole (Basically what you are doing is fastening the rear of the upper and
lower together and then using the hole you inserted the screw driver as the insert hole of the
buttstock stud).
11. Trigger Guard: Take the 1 in. “U” pipe bracket and bend it to your preference. Mine is
standard ak style 1.75” long and 9/8” tall. Align the T.G. to clean the trigger travel and drill
and tap (10-32) the front (muzzle) part of the trigger guard only. The rear side doesn’t need
attaching as it will get clamped between the lower and buttstock.
Steps:
#2, #5
#6, #7
#9
 upper, #9
 lower
Bolt Assembly:
1. Take the bolt and cut it in two at the rear “step” where the reduced diameter mid body
meets the raised rear bolt sleeve. (See Pics)
2. Grind the top and sides of the bolt (leave the bottom alone) to fit inside the upper receiver.
3. Guide Rails & Firing Pin Holes: If you have lathe or other precision machining tools you
can do this step, otherwise one must have it done at machine shop like I did. All three holes are
drilled in line and the two guide rail holes are equal distance from the firing pin (Measure the
distance between G.R. center-to-center for later use). The sizes of the guide rail holes and
firing pin will vary depending on the size of the rods you choose to use and thickness of the
Mauser firing pin which may vary. In my Case I used 9/16” drill for the guide rails. (See Pics)
4. Bolt Handle Hole: To make life easier, I decided to use the existing extractor pin hole as the
stop for bolt handle. Drill and tap deep enough for 10-32 screw, but leave approx 1/8” un-
drilled for the extractor pin to insert to. Screw in the bolt handle; insert the extractor pin and
cut off the excess. (See Pics)
5. Recoil Spring Slots Reaming: Use initial guide rail holes you drilled and drill 27/64” holes
approx 1.5” deep from the back of the bolt. Take you time and go slow since bits are prone to
slip and walk around. (See Pics)
6. Firing Pin & Firing Pin Hole Reaming: On this one you are pretty much alone. Modify the
tip of the firing pin (the thinnest portion) to 5/8” in length. Modify the main body (the thickest
portion) so it starts approx. 2” from the tip of the firing pin. Ream the firing pin hole
according to your firing pin to make it slide freely. Finally, drill a spring pocket into the bolt
body so spring is squished between the pocked edge and the second step in the firing pin. (See
Pics)
7. Firing Pin Retaining Screw & Retaining Slot: Drill and tap a hole for 6-32 screw approx. ¼”
from the edge of the bolt. Then machine a 1/16” deep retaining screw slot into the firing pin
that will allow for full travel. (See Pics)
8. Grind down the feedings lips to the level of the bolt face.
Steps:
#1, #3
#4, #5	(upside down)
#6, #7
Trunions:
4. Guide rail installation: Use the determined distance between the two guide rail holes center-
to- center acquired earlier to get the right guide rail hole locations. Vertically they should be
located in the middle of the trunion. Drill the holes 3/16”deep on each trunion (rear action and
chamber). Finally JB weld the guide rails to the rear action trunion.
5. Lower Receiver Screw Clearence: Drill two holes of the appropriate size an the end of the
lower receiver to clear the two bottom rear trunion screws. (See Pics)
Stock:
2. Buttstock Stud: Drill a hole of fit the buttstock stud and glue it in.(See Pics)
3. Fill up the space between the receiver and stock with wood insert.
4. Add wood insert to the inletting on the left side of the pistol grip. (See Pics)
There all that’s to it!!! Well other then sights, metal finish etc., but I’m leaving that up to you.
And if you did it right you final product should look something like this….