FEEDING CARE By far, the most common problem with keeping fish is overfeeding. Why is this so?

There
are a couple of likely explanations for why aquarium fish are overfed so regularly by their keepers. First,
many hobbyist are not aware of the basic feeding guidelines. Second, fish tend to display behaviors that
make us, the hobbyist, think that they are hungry and therefore need feeding. Third, hobbyists have a
fascination watching fish eat, and what better way to get the fish moving around in the aquarium than
to drop some tasty morsels into the water!

The reason of this article is to address the first reason for why hobbyists overfeed, lack of education.
And hopefully the second and third reason for overfeeding will be curbed.

So why is it that fish always look hungry and scoot to the top of the aquarium when you approach? First
and foremost, all fish are “opportunistic feeders.” In the wild, fish do not know when their next meal will
come floating by, therefore, when they do have the opportunity to eat, they do just that, eat! When
kept in a captive environment, fish do not loose those genetically engrained opportunistic feeding
habits. That is, if there is food nearby they will eat. So by default, fish are always looking for an easy
meal. This also means all fish are cannibalistic in nature. All fish will eat other fish if that fish shows signs
of weakness. A weak or dead fish is simply an easy meal.

In the wild all fish have three objectives; reproducing, establishing and protecting a territory, and
feeding. They have no time to read the paper, go golfing, or go shopping. So yes, fish will always look
hungry. They have established a “learned behavior” of recognizing any time someone walks to the front
of the aquarium they think they will be fed.

Overfeeding is a source of two major problems in this hobby. The first, uneaten food will sink to the
bottom of the display or get trapped in the filter. If the food is not eaten and trapped in the aquarium it
begins to decompose. At that point the aquarium will become polluted. Life cannot be sustained in a
polluted environment. Basically this means death to all livestock within the confines of the display. The
second problem is algae blooms. As the food “rots” it produces a tremendous amount of fertilizer.
Fertilizer feeds algae (see Algae Guide).

Feeding fish is quite simple. Keep in mind that in nature fish eat constantly. You are better off feeding
many small amounts of food to your display 20 times a day rather than overfeeding once a week. All
food added to the display should be consumed within 30 seconds. Do not add so much food so that 3-5
minutes later it is seen floating around in the water. A key point to keep in mind is that with most fish,
its stomach is relative to the size of its eye. It will not take much food to fill its stomach. However, most
fish have a quick metabolism. Therefore, it is usually best to feed a very small amount several times a
day.

Diet is also very important. Just imagine if you were fed a strict diet of nothing but peanut butter and
jelly sandwiches over the course of your life. You would end up with several deficiencies, thus affecting
your immune system and creating ideal circumstances for you to get sick. The same holds true for fish. If
your fish are not getting a varied diet deficiencies may develop and your fish may get sick or worse yet
their life span may be affected (see Disease Guide & Captive Life Span Guide).
 FisH Diseases

Just like people, fish get sick too. How do fish in an aquarium get sick? You may have purchased a fish
that was already sick but not displaying full blown symptoms, or your may have introduced new healthy
fish to your aquarium and it may have picked up a disease that was already present in your aquarium.
Also, when a fish is introduced to a new aquarium, the move is very stressful on the fish, which in turn
depresses its immune system, further increasing its vulnerability to disease and infection.

There are many important factors when considering a fish’s health. First, one must provide a healthy
stress-free environment that includes good water quality and parameters, as well as a balanced diet.
Secondly, if a fish should become diseased, proper diagnosis is difficult at best! If there is uncertainty
with the diagnosis, treatment can often be a crap shoot. The best cure is prevention by means of stable
healthy water parameters and a balanced diet.

A Stress-Free Environment means ideal water conditions:

Parameter Freshwater Marine

Temperature 73º F to 79ºF for tropical fish 77º F to 85º

50º F to 68º F for temperate climate fish

pH 7.0 8.0 to 8.3

Ammonia 0 ppm 0 ppm

Nitrite 0 ppm 0 ppm

O2 at or near saturation at or near saturation

Calcium n/a 400 pm

Hardness / Alkalinity n/a 4 to 6 meq/L

Phosphate <0.5 ppm <0.2 ppm for fish systems

<.01 ppm for reef systems

Salinity n/a 1.018 to1.025

*Although some fish require special water conditions, the above listing is an average for most fish.

A Stress-Free Environment also means that excessive aggression does not occur between the fish in
your aquarium. All fish have their own unique personalities, and some may be more aggressive than
others. If a fish is overly-aggressive towards other fish, it may be best to remove the problem fish.
A Stress-Free Environment also means providing each fish with a balanced diet. Different fish species
have different dietary requirements. In addition, fish typically feed on a variety of foods, thus providing
them with all the different necessary nutrients.

Diagnosis and Treatments

Whereas diagnosis of fish disease may be difficult, aquarium professionals have more experience with
the more common diseases and illness than most hobbyist. A few diseases and illnesses can be properly
diagnosed.

Many treatments are available at your local pet retailers, mail order houses, and the internet. Many of
these remedies have been adapted to our industry from others. That being said, many of these
medication have limited effectiveness for our hobby. Listed are some of the more common products:

Metronidazole has been found to be an effective food supplement. Metronidazole is the same
medication a human would receive if they went camping and drank water contaminated with a
protozoan parasite.

Garlic Additives are new to the aquarium industry. Many manufacturers have been selling this as a
parasite repellent and food additive.

Copper has, over the years, become the remedy of choice for parasitic infections for both freshwater
and saltwater fish.

Diet is just as important to fish as it is to us humans. Varying the fish’s diet provides a well rounded
source of nutrients. Attempts should be made to mimic as closely as possible, a fish’s natural diet. Also,
vitamin supplements can play an important role in fish nutrition and health. For example, Vitamin B12 is
beneficial with disease prevention, recovery, and stress management. On a side note, many of the
prevalent “slime coating” products are useful only as de-chlorinators and nothing else. No scientific data
supports that aloe-vera, the supposed active ingredient found in Stress-CoatTM serves any useful
purpose in the prevention or cure of any disease. It is however, like every other de-chlorinators, good at
removing harmful chlorine from tap water.

Ultra Violet Sterilization of water is a very good proactive way to eliminate problems before they
become disasters. UV Sterlizers work by passing water through a chamber that contains a fluorescent
ultra violet bulb. The UV rays kill free swimming bacteria and parasites. If water passes by the UV bulb to
quickly, the bacteria and parasites may not be killed.
 Ideal Water Conditions

Fish and aquatic animals are directly influenced by the chemical, biological, and physical characteristics
of their aquatic environment. In natural environments such as a coral reef in the ocean, the water is
chemically, biologically and physically stable because of the large volume of water and the presence of
currents. An aquarium, on the other hand, is subject to quick and possibly large changes in water
conditions. Compared to a lake or an ocean, aquariums have relatively small water volumes, which are
more easily affected by the potential fluctuations of the ideal water parameters. Aside from physical
water conditions, changes in the aquatic environment are the result of various biochemical processes
and the metabolic activities of all things living in the aquarium which includes fish, invertebrates, algae,
and bacteria to name a few. If these chemicals are allowed to accumulate to levels above what
aquarium inhabitants can tolerate, death can occur. Also, toxicity of some of these chemicals can be
lethal in very low concentrations, so constant attention must be given to the ideal water conditions.

At each and every visit, Premier Aquatic Services technicians takes readings of these very important
water parameters, and if necessary, make the proper adjustments to ensure ideal water conditions. By
maintaining the integrity of the ideal water parameters, your aquarium livestock will experience less
stress and maintain better health. In addition, your aquarium’s appearance will look its best because
unwanted algae growth will be minimal.

The table below summarizes ideal water conditions for selected Freshwater and Marine aquarium
environments:

Parameter Freshwater Marine

Temperature 73º F to 79ºF for tropical fish 77º F to 85º

50º F to 68º F for temperate climate fish

pH 7.0 8.0 to 8.3

Ammonia 0 ppm 0 ppm

Nitrite 0 ppm 0 ppm

O2 at or near saturation at or near saturation

Calcium n/a 400 pm

Hardness / Alkalinity n/a 4 to 6 meq/L

Phosphate <0.5 ppm <0.2 ppm for fish systems

 <.01 ppm for reef systems

Salinity n/a 1.018 to1.025

*Although some fish require special water conditions, the above listing is an average for most fish.

Temperature
Temperature is a physical characteristic of water that greatly influences the organisms living in it. Since
fish and invertebrates are cold-blooded species, they are directly affected by temperature, which affects
their activity, feeding habits, immune system, and other metabolic functions. Marine fish and
invertebrates in particular are very sensitive to rapid temperature fluctuations, so maintaining the right
consistent temperature range is very important. At higher water temperatures, fish metabolism
increases, thus the greater need for food. But at the same time, this increases metabolic wastes, which
can quickly reach toxic levels. Also, O2 dissolves more readily in cooler water. For example, twice as
much O2 can be dissolved in water at 32º F versus water at 86º F.

pH
pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of water. pH ranges from 0 to 14 with 7 being
neutral. Marine water acceptable ranges between 8.0 to 8.3. Freshwater pH can range 6.5 to 8.5
depending on the species of fish. Therefore, not all freshwater fish are compatible in the same
aquarium based on this one factor. The general trend of water in an aquarium is the pH to lower, that
is, it becomes more acidic. The biological processes that occur in the aquarium are the reason for this
trend. Buffers are chemicals that occur naturally and stabilize fluctuations in pH. Buffers are widely
available and can be added to the water to keep the water at the desired pH. Having the correct pH for
the livestock in your aquarium is extremely important to their survival. The pH of water affects vital
biological chemical processes. If the pH is not right vital biological chemical process cannot occur and
life cannot be sustained.

Ammonia: NH3, Nh4+

Ammonia is the most toxic product in the water that is formed naturally from the biological processes in
the aquarium. Ammonia exists in two forms in the water: NH3 (un-ionized) and NH4+ (ionized). The
sum of both forms of ammonia is known as total ammonia. Both forms exist in water, but the
proportion of each form is dependent on pH, temperature and other factors. The un-ionized form, NH3,
is extremely toxic and the higher the pH (more alkaline), the higher the concentration of the
NH3. Ammonia is naturally broken down into Nitrite and then Nitrate by beneficial bacteria.

Nitrite: NO2-
As part of the Nitrogen Cycle, Ammonia is converted into Nitrite by the beneficial bacteria,
Nitrosomonas. Nitrite is the intermediate step of the conversion of Ammonia into Nitrate. Once
beneficial bacteria have been established, Nitrite detection is often impossible. Though, Nitrite is less
toxic than Ammonia, it is still some what toxic to animals because it binds with red blood cells which
prevent the uptake of dissolved oxygen. Nitrite buildup is mainly a concern during the set up or cycling
of a new aquarium.

Nitrate: NO3-
Nitrate is the last nitrogen compound in the de-nitrification side of the nitrogen cycle. It is not as toxic
as Nitrite and far less toxic than Ammonia to fish and invertebrates. Nitrate concentrations in the water
increase as a result of the nitrogen cycle. Nitrate is essentially fertilizer, which algae feed on. An
abundance of Nitrate enables unattractive algae blooms. Anaerobic bacteria convert Nitrate back into
Ammonia on the nitrifying side of the nitrogen cycle, but these bacteria are not present in aquariums
because of the presence of oxygen in the aquarium environment. Therefore, the best way to control
Nitrate is with periodic water changes.At elevated levels, Nitrate is stressful to all aquatic animals. Some
are more tolerant to elevated Nitrate levels than others. Most invertebrates, especially corals, cannot
survive in a display with elevated Nitrates. Higher Nitrate concentrations also stress new animals added
to a display. A fish taken from a tank with Nitrates at 40 ppm will not typically acclimate to a display
with 150 ppm. Again, water changes are the best means for reducing this concentration.

O2
Fish and other invertebrates need oxygen as part of the respiration process. Interestingly enough so do
plants in the dark or nighttime phase of photosynthesis. Water filtration and aeration devices
incorporate plenty of dissolved oxygen into the aquarium water. Therefore it is very unlikely that low
oxygen levels might occur.

Calcium
Generally, the concentration of Calcium is more important to the saltwater aquarium hobbyist than the
freshwater aquarium hobbyist. Calcium in marine aquariums is consumed by calcifying plants and
animals that include coralline algae and corals. The ideal calcium level in the home marine aquarium
should mimic that of natural seawater, 400 ppm. Without an adequate concentration of calcium, many
corals cannot grow. Calcium concentration, which can be monitored with test kits, does play a role in
stabilizing the aquarium pH.

Alkalinity – Buffering Capacity

Alkalinity of a solution refers to its capacity to buffer against fluctuations in pH. Alkalinity is provided in
the aquarium by various negatively charged ions such as carbonates, bicarbonates, borates, and
hydroxides. Some confusion surrounds alkalinity for two reasons: First, the term, Carbonate Hardness
has been used as an interchangeable term for Alkalinity. Carbonate Hardness describes the amount of
carbonate or bicarbonate dissolved in the water. True, carbonate and bicarbonate contribute to the
water’s alkalinity, but other compounds such as borates and hydroxides are involved too. Secondly,
aquarists use two different units of measurement; milliequivalents per liter (meq/L) and degrees of
carbonate (German = karbonat) hardness (dKH). Both measure alkalinity, but report the measurement
in different units.Because aquariums are acid producing environments, we typically strive to keep the
alkalinity double that of natural seawater. Natural seawater has an alkalinity of 2-3 meq/L, therefore
ideal aquarium alkalinity parameter is between 4-6meq/L.
 Phosphate
Phosphates, like nitrate, accumulate in aquarium water overtime. Phosphate contributes to the
undesirable growth of algae and in high concentrations can negatively affect the health of
invertebrates. Phosphates come from the digestion of food by aquarium animals, decay of excess food,
and some activated carbon products. Overfeeding is the major reason for increasing concentration of
Phosphates. Water changes are effective at removing phosphates as well as phosphate removing
products. Phosphate can occur in both organic and inorganic forms and not all testing equipment
measures both. When performing water tests, Premier Aquatic Services monitors both organic and
inorganic forms for a total phosphate

Salinity
Salinity is applicable to marine aquariums only. The specific gravity, or density, of water is the ratio of
dissolved salt in the water compared to pure water. Pure water has a specific gravity of 1.00. Marine
aquariums should have a specific gravity ratio in the range of 1.018 to1.025. A hydrometer is a device
that measures specific gravity. Some of these devices are water temperature dependant, so it is
important to factor in water temperature when taking a salinity reading.

FEEDING CARE By far, the most common problem with keeping fish is overfeeding. Why is this so? There
are a couple of likely explanations for why aquarium fish are overfed so regularly by their keepers. First,
many hobbyist are not aware of the basic feeding guidelines. Second, fish tend to display behaviors that
make us, the hobbyist, think that they are hungry and therefore need feeding. Third, hobbyists have a
fascination watching fish eat, and what better way to get the fish moving around in the aquarium than
to drop some tasty morsels into the water!

The reason of this article is to address the first reason for why hobbyists overfeed, lack of education.
And hopefully the second and third reason for overfeeding will be curbed.

So why is it that fish always look hungry and scoot to the top of the aquarium when you approach? First
and foremost, all fish are “opportunistic feeders.” In the wild, fish do not know when their next meal will
come floating by, therefore, when they do have the opportunity to eat, they do just that, eat! When
kept in a captive environment, fish do not loose those genetically engrained opportunistic feeding
habits. That is, if there is food nearby they will eat. So by default, fish are always looking for an easy
meal. This also means all fish are cannibalistic in nature. All fish will eat other fish if that fish shows signs
of weakness. A weak or dead fish is simply an easy meal.

In the wild all fish have three objectives; reproducing, establishing and protecting a territory, and
feeding. They have no time to read the paper, go golfing, or go shopping. So yes, fish will always look
hungry. They have established a “learned behavior” of recognizing any time someone walks to the front
of the aquarium they think they will be fed.
 Overfeeding is a source of two major problems in this hobby. The first, uneaten food will sink to the
bottom of the display or get trapped in the filter. If the food is not eaten and trapped in the aquarium it
begins to decompose. At that point the aquarium will become polluted. Life cannot be sustained in a
polluted environment. Basically this means death to all livestock within the confines of the display. The
second problem is algae blooms. As the food “rots” it produces a tremendous amount of fertilizer.
Fertilizer feeds algae (see Algae Guide).

Feeding fish is quite simple. Keep in mind that in nature fish eat constantly. You are better off feeding
many small amounts of food to your display 20 times a day rather than overfeeding once a week. All
food added to the display should be consumed within 30 seconds. Do not add so much food so that 3-5
minutes later it is seen floating around in the water. A key point to keep in mind is that with most fish,
its stomach is relative to the size of its eye. It will not take much food to fill its stomach. However, most
fish have a quick metabolism. Therefore, it is usually best to feed a very small amount several times a
day.

Diet is also very important. Just imagine if you were fed a strict diet of nothing but peanut butter and
jelly sandwiches over the course of your life. You would end up with several deficiencies, thus affecting
your immune system and creating ideal circumstances for you to get sick. The same holds true for fish. If
your fish are not getting a varied diet deficiencies may develop and your fish may get sick or worse yet
their life span may be affected (see Disease Guide & Captive Life Span Guide).

FisH Diseases

Just like people, fish get sick too. How do fish in an aquarium get sick? You may have purchased a fish
that was already sick but not displaying full blown symptoms, or your may have introduced new healthy
fish to your aquarium and it may have picked up a disease that was already present in your aquarium.
Also, when a fish is introduced to a new aquarium, the move is very stressful on the fish, which in turn
depresses its immune system, further increasing its vulnerability to disease and infection.

There are many important factors when considering a fish’s health. First, one must provide a healthy
stress-free environment that includes good water quality and parameters, as well as a balanced diet.
Secondly, if a fish should become diseased, proper diagnosis is difficult at best! If there is uncertainty
with the diagnosis, treatment can often be a crap shoot. The best cure is prevention by means of stable
healthy water parameters and a balanced diet.

A Stress-Free Environment means ideal water conditions:

Parameter Freshwater Marine

Temperature 73º F to 79ºF for tropical fish 77º F to 85º

50º F to 68º F for temperate climate fish

pH 7.0 8.0 to 8.3

Ammonia 0 ppm 0 ppm

Nitrite 0 ppm 0 ppm

O2 at or near saturation at or near saturation

Calcium n/a 400 pm

Hardness / Alkalinity n/a 4 to 6 meq/L

Phosphate <0.5 ppm <0.2 ppm for fish systems

<.01 ppm for reef systems

Salinity n/a 1.018 to1.025

*Although some fish require special water conditions, the above listing is an average for most fish.

A Stress-Free Environment also means that excessive aggression does not occur between the fish in
your aquarium. All fish have their own unique personalities, and some may be more aggressive than
others. If a fish is overly-aggressive towards other fish, it may be best to remove the problem fish.

A Stress-Free Environment also means providing each fish with a balanced diet. Different fish species
have different dietary requirements. In addition, fish typically feed on a variety of foods, thus providing
them with all the different necessary nutrients.

Diagnosis and Treatments

Whereas diagnosis of fish disease may be difficult, aquarium professionals have more experience with
the more common diseases and illness than most hobbyist. A few diseases and illnesses can be properly
diagnosed.

Many treatments are available at your local pet retailers, mail order houses, and the internet. Many of
these remedies have been adapted to our industry from others. That being said, many of these
medication have limited effectiveness for our hobby. Listed are some of the more common products:

Metronidazole has been found to be an effective food supplement. Metronidazole is the same
medication a human would receive if they went camping and drank water contaminated with a
protozoan parasite.

Garlic Additives are new to the aquarium industry. Many manufacturers have been selling this as a
parasite repellent and food additive.

Copper has, over the years, become the remedy of choice for parasitic infections for both freshwater
and saltwater fish.
Diet is just as important to fish as it is to us humans. Varying the fish’s diet provides a well rounded
source of nutrients. Attempts should be made to mimic as closely as possible, a fish’s natural diet. Also,
vitamin supplements can play an important role in fish nutrition and health. For example, Vitamin B12 is
beneficial with disease prevention, recovery, and stress management. On a side note, many of the
prevalent “slime coating” products are useful only as de-chlorinators and nothing else. No scientific data
supports that aloe-vera, the supposed active ingredient found in Stress-CoatTM serves any useful
purpose in the prevention or cure of any disease. It is however, like every other de-chlorinators, good at
removing harmful chlorine from tap water.

Ultra Violet Sterilization of water is a very good proactive way to eliminate problems before they
become disasters. UV Sterlizers work by passing water through a chamber that contains a fluorescent
ultra violet bulb. The UV rays kill free swimming bacteria and parasites. If water passes by the UV bulb to
quickly, the bacteria and parasites may not be killed.

Ideal Water Conditions

Fish and aquatic animals are directly influenced by the chemical, biological, and physical characteristics
of their aquatic environment. In natural environments such as a coral reef in the ocean, the water is
chemically, biologically and physically stable because of the large volume of water and the presence of
currents. An aquarium, on the other hand, is subject to quick and possibly large changes in water
conditions. Compared to a lake or an ocean, aquariums have relatively small water volumes, which are
more easily affected by the potential fluctuations of the ideal water parameters. Aside from physical
water conditions, changes in the aquatic environment are the result of various biochemical processes
and the metabolic activities of all things living in the aquarium which includes fish, invertebrates, algae,
and bacteria to name a few. If these chemicals are allowed to accumulate to levels above what
aquarium inhabitants can tolerate, death can occur. Also, toxicity of some of these chemicals can be
lethal in very low concentrations, so constant attention must be given to the ideal water conditions.

At each and every visit, Premier Aquatic Services technicians takes readings of these very important
water parameters, and if necessary, make the proper adjustments to ensure ideal water conditions. By
maintaining the integrity of the ideal water parameters, your aquarium livestock will experience less
stress and maintain better health. In addition, your aquarium’s appearance will look its best because
unwanted algae growth will be minimal.
 The table below summarizes ideal water conditions for selected Freshwater and Marine aquarium
environments:

Parameter Freshwater Marine

Temperature 73º F to 79ºF for tropical fish 77º F to 85º

50º F to 68º F for temperate climate fish

pH 7.0 8.0 to 8.3

Ammonia 0 ppm 0 ppm

Nitrite 0 ppm 0 ppm

O2 at or near saturation at or near saturation

Calcium n/a 400 pm

Hardness / Alkalinity n/a 4 to 6 meq/L

Phosphate <0.5 ppm <0.2 ppm for fish systems

<.01 ppm for reef systems

Salinity n/a 1.018 to1.025

*Although some fish require special water conditions, the above listing is an average for most fish.

Temperature
Temperature is a physical characteristic of water that greatly influences the organisms living in it. Since
fish and invertebrates are cold-blooded species, they are directly affected by temperature, which affects
their activity, feeding habits, immune system, and other metabolic functions. Marine fish and
invertebrates in particular are very sensitive to rapid temperature fluctuations, so maintaining the right
consistent temperature range is very important. At higher water temperatures, fish metabolism
increases, thus the greater need for food. But at the same time, this increases metabolic wastes, which
can quickly reach toxic levels. Also, O2 dissolves more readily in cooler water. For example, twice as
much O2 can be dissolved in water at 32º F versus water at 86º F.

pH
pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of water. pH ranges from 0 to 14 with 7 being
neutral. Marine water acceptable ranges between 8.0 to 8.3. Freshwater pH can range 6.5 to 8.5
depending on the species of fish. Therefore, not all freshwater fish are compatible in the same
aquarium based on this one factor. The general trend of water in an aquarium is the pH to lower, that
is, it becomes more acidic. The biological processes that occur in the aquarium are the reason for this
trend. Buffers are chemicals that occur naturally and stabilize fluctuations in pH. Buffers are widely
available and can be added to the water to keep the water at the desired pH. Having the correct pH for
the livestock in your aquarium is extremely important to their survival. The pH of water affects vital
biological chemical processes. If the pH is not right vital biological chemical process cannot occur and
life cannot be sustained.

Ammonia: NH3, Nh4+

Ammonia is the most toxic product in the water that is formed naturally from the biological processes in
the aquarium. Ammonia exists in two forms in the water: NH3 (un-ionized) and NH4+ (ionized). The
sum of both forms of ammonia is known as total ammonia. Both forms exist in water, but the
proportion of each form is dependent on pH, temperature and other factors. The un-ionized form, NH3,
is extremely toxic and the higher the pH (more alkaline), the higher the concentration of the
NH3. Ammonia is naturally broken down into Nitrite and then Nitrate by beneficial bacteria.

Nitrite: NO2-
As part of the Nitrogen Cycle, Ammonia is converted into Nitrite by the beneficial bacteria,
Nitrosomonas. Nitrite is the intermediate step of the conversion of Ammonia into Nitrate. Once
beneficial bacteria have been established, Nitrite detection is often impossible. Though, Nitrite is less
toxic than Ammonia, it is still some what toxic to animals because it binds with red blood cells which
prevent the uptake of dissolved oxygen. Nitrite buildup is mainly a concern during the set up or cycling
of a new aquarium.

Nitrate: NO3-
Nitrate is the last nitrogen compound in the de-nitrification side of the nitrogen cycle. It is not as toxic
as Nitrite and far less toxic than Ammonia to fish and invertebrates. Nitrate concentrations in the water
increase as a result of the nitrogen cycle. Nitrate is essentially fertilizer, which algae feed on. An
abundance of Nitrate enables unattractive algae blooms. Anaerobic bacteria convert Nitrate back into
Ammonia on the nitrifying side of the nitrogen cycle, but these bacteria are not present in aquariums
because of the presence of oxygen in the aquarium environment. Therefore, the best way to control
Nitrate is with periodic water changes.At elevated levels, Nitrate is stressful to all aquatic animals. Some
are more tolerant to elevated Nitrate levels than others. Most invertebrates, especially corals, cannot
survive in a display with elevated Nitrates. Higher Nitrate concentrations also stress new animals added
to a display. A fish taken from a tank with Nitrates at 40 ppm will not typically acclimate to a display
with 150 ppm. Again, water changes are the best means for reducing this concentration.

O2
Fish and other invertebrates need oxygen as part of the respiration process. Interestingly enough so do
plants in the dark or nighttime phase of photosynthesis. Water filtration and aeration devices
incorporate plenty of dissolved oxygen into the aquarium water. Therefore it is very unlikely that low
oxygen levels might occur.
 Calcium
Generally, the concentration of Calcium is more important to the saltwater aquarium hobbyist than the
freshwater aquarium hobbyist. Calcium in marine aquariums is consumed by calcifying plants and
animals that include coralline algae and corals. The ideal calcium level in the home marine aquarium
should mimic that of natural seawater, 400 ppm. Without an adequate concentration of calcium, many
corals cannot grow. Calcium concentration, which can be monitored with test kits, does play a role in
stabilizing the aquarium pH.

Alkalinity – Buffering Capacity

Alkalinity of a solution refers to its capacity to buffer against fluctuations in pH. Alkalinity is provided in
the aquarium by various negatively charged ions such as carbonates, bicarbonates, borates, and
hydroxides. Some confusion surrounds alkalinity for two reasons: First, the term, Carbonate Hardness
has been used as an interchangeable term for Alkalinity. Carbonate Hardness describes the amount of
carbonate or bicarbonate dissolved in the water. True, carbonate and bicarbonate contribute to the
water’s alkalinity, but other compounds such as borates and hydroxides are involved too. Secondly,
aquarists use two different units of measurement; milliequivalents per liter (meq/L) and degrees of
carbonate (German = karbonat) hardness (dKH). Both measure alkalinity, but report the measurement
in different units.Because aquariums are acid producing environments, we typically strive to keep the
alkalinity double that of natural seawater. Natural seawater has an alkalinity of 2-3 meq/L, therefore
ideal aquarium alkalinity parameter is between 4-6meq/L.

Phosphate
Phosphates, like nitrate, accumulate in aquarium water overtime. Phosphate contributes to the
undesirable growth of algae and in high concentrations can negatively affect the health of
invertebrates. Phosphates come from the digestion of food by aquarium animals, decay of excess food,
and some activated carbon products. Overfeeding is the major reason for increasing concentration of
Phosphates. Water changes are effective at removing phosphates as well as phosphate removing
products. Phosphate can occur in both organic and inorganic forms and not all testing equipment
measures both. When performing water tests, Premier Aquatic Services monitors both organic and
inorganic forms for a total phosphate

Salinity
Salinity is applicable to marine aquariums only. The specific gravity, or density, of water is the ratio of
dissolved salt in the water compared to pure water. Pure water has a specific gravity of 1.00. Marine
aquariums should have a specific gravity ratio in the range of 1.018 to1.025. A hydrometer is a device
that measures specific gravity. Some of these devices are water temperature dependant, so it is
important to factor in water temperature when taking a salinity reading.