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World Traveller - January 2019 PDF
World Traveller - January 2019 PDF
HONG KONG
BERLIN
NORWAY
US ROAD TRIP
2
new Maldives resorts (get there before the rest), to
where to walk among giant tortoises in Seychelles,
Managing Director and pampering spa havens in Sri Lanka. Thanks to the new
Maputo-Catembe
Victoria Thatcher Drawing on our insider intelligence, dnata
Bridge, you can
Travel’s resident globetrotter Emily Williams tells now reach Southern
Editorial Director us which destinations are trending right now (p8) Mozambique in an easy
John Thatcher while our woman on the ground in Berlin helps 90-minute drive (as
you get under the skin of this achingly cool capital opposed to a bumpy
General Manager in her long weekend guide on p66. five-hour ride) from the
David Wade We hope you like our new direction, and we
airport, p21
invite you to share your own travel stories with
Managing Editor us. Turn to p82 to see how you can carry on the 3
Faye Bartle conversation on our digital channels. If you’re travelling long-
faye@hotmediapublishing.com haul with kids, outsmart
Happy travels, jetlag by booking an
Content Writer Faye Bartle overnight or late-night
flight, p22
Habiba Azab
Art Director
Win! 4
Find out how you can
Kerri Bennett Berlin is nine times
win a three-night stay the size of Paris,
Senior Designer at Gili Lankanfushi, but home to just 3.5
Hiral Kapadia Maldives million people – that’s
five million less than
on p83
London, p66
Senior Advertising Manager
Mia Cachero
mia@hotmediapublishing.com
Production Manager
Muthu Kumar
INSPIRED BY 5
In Hong Kong,
Peking duck
Photography credits:
spring rolls now
come stuffed with
Getty Images and Phocal Media
healthy kale, p44
COVER IMAGE
Jumeirah Vittaveli
Reproduction in whole or in part
without written permission from
HOT Media Publishing is strictly Find us at…
prohibited. All prices mentioned
are correct at time of press ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com
but may change. HOT Media
Publishing does not accept
liability for omissions or errors in
FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine
World Traveller.
INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller
Tel: 00971 4 364 2876
Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 TWITTER @WT_Magazine
worldtravellermagazine.com 3
Contents
January 2019
Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi
29
MALDIVES
regulars
8
TRENDING
15
GLOBETROTTER
22
THE KNOWLEDGE
26
COVER FEATURE
84
SUITE DREAMS
DESTINATIONS New Year travel goals How to avoid jet lag Say hello to your Indian Bookworms need look
From wild Tasmania to aim for; fresh places when travelling with a Ocean paradise... we've no further than the
to the dramatic to stay; mood-boosting toddler in tow – by the rounded up the very best Virginia Woolf Suite
landscapes of the Isle nature trips; and must- nomad parents who've ways to do Maldives, at University Arms,
of Skye – four places to see urban wonders mastered it Seychelles, Mauritius Cambridge
head to now and Sri Lanka
worldtravellermagazine.com 5
CONTENTS
features
44
MELTING POT
50
ROADS TO
56
BARKING GLAD
Neon-lit skyscrapers RECOVERY Taking the reins
pierce the clouds and An eye-opening drive on a family dog-
big-brand names light through America’s soul- sledding adventure in
up the sky – this is stirring canyonlands northeastern Norway
modern Hong Kong
50
US ROAD TRIP
weekends
64
REASONS TO VISIT
66
A LONG WEEKEND
72
STAYCATIONS
78
TRAVEL OFFERS
DUBAI CREEK IN BERLIN Enjoy a well-deserved Take advantage of our
Check out the new What to see and do in weekend away at these exclusive deals for
wave of openings at the this achingly cool and luxurious hotels your next adventure
historic heart of the city creative capital
6 worldtravellermagazine.com
Inspiration. Expertly crafted.
Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the
Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience.
The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants
and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and
17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular
Meeting Spaces.
Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Tasmania
The island of Tasmania is witnessing a surge in popularity. This wild
corner of Australia has beautiful (and quiet) beaches, abundant nature and
wildlife, the purest air, cleanest water and an emerging cultural scene. Stay
in the beautiful port capital of Hobart, an ideal base to explore, and home
to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA).
HIGHLIGHTS 1 See the diverse range of wacky art at world-renowned MONA 2 Bask in the beauty of the 50km-long Bay of Fires
3 Meet and greet a Tasmanian Devil at the Tasmanian Devil Unzoo
8 worldtravellermagazine.com
TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Porto
Two hours north of Lisbon, Porto emerges from the banks of the Rio Douro
like a pop-up book of colourful, historic buildings. With its fashionable
hotels, local chefs picking up a growing constellation of Michelin stars,
beautiful beaches and charismatic locals, January (with its mild weather
and affordable rates) is a great time to experience all Porto has to offer.
HIGHLIGHTS 1 Visit the arts block of Rua Miguel Bombarda for your fill of contemporary art and design
2 Admire the old houses of Miragaia 3 Taste classic Portuguese cuisine by Porto-born Chef Rui Paula at DOP
worldtravellermagazine.com 9
TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Bahamas
Home to the ‘original’ Atlantis hotel, Atlantis Paradise Island in the Bahamas
features the world's largest open-air marine habitat, a 141-acre water park,
11 incredible pools, five miles of stunning beaches, and a Tom Weiskopf-
designed 18-hole, oceanfront golf course. There’s no bad time to visit the
Bahamas – go island hopping and marvel at its famous pink sand beaches.
HIGHLIGHTS 1 Grab a conch salad and listen to rake ’n’ scrape bands at the ‘Fish Fry’ in Arawak Cay, Nassau
2 Snorkelling at Andros Great Barrier Reef 3 Soak up the sun on pristine pink sand beaches
10 worldtravellermagazine.com
Words by Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter
TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Isle of Skye
The Scottish Highlands are on the radar, boosted by rumours of the prequel
to Game of Thrones filming on the Isle of Skye. Already a popular location for
film and TV crews, be sure to visit the iconic stone structure known as the
Old Man of Storr and the beautiful ‘Fairy Pool’ waterfalls. It's cold in January,
but the weather lends the dramatic landscapes an even more magical vibe.
HIGHLIGHTS 1 Follow guides to mountains, sea-cliffs, and canyons for a thrilling outdoor adventure 2 See an acclaimed collection
of dinosaur fossils at the Staffin Dinosaur Museum 3 Take a boat tour to see basking sharks at sea, the world’s second largest fish
worldtravellermagazine.com 11
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A NEW WATERFRONT
DESTINATION
AT PALM JUMEIRAH
@thepointepalm | www.thepointe.ae
Globetrotter
JANUARY
HIGH SOCIETY
Open your eyes to the mediaeval
architecture and nature-filled walking
trails of picturesque Sintra, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, which historically
was a popular holiday spot among
Portugal’s elite – hence the exquisite
palaces, mansions and decorative
gardens amid the rolling hills. Embrace
the grandeur by staying at Tivoli Palácio
de Seteais (pictured), an 18th-century
Portuguese palace-turned-hotel, which
can send you on a host of adventures,
including a horse-drawn carriage ride
along the charming cobblestone streets
to taste traditional pastries at century-
old pâtisserie Casa Piriquita.
World Traveller 15
GLOBETROTTER
4
Cook up
a storm in
3
Go wild in you can retire
Wolgan to one of the
Valley manor house’s
Stay at Emirates 32 individually-
One&Only in designed hotel
Wolgan Valley, rooms.
Australia, and Belmond Le Manoir aux
Quat’Saisons
you can make
1 2
Do a digital Join a writer’s a hands-on Maya Ubud Resort & Spa
detox in retreat in contribution to
5
Boracay Sierra Nevada protecting the Nurture
Break free from If you plan on valley and its your soul
a digital rut at penning your own wildlife. Join the in Bali
Mandala Spa & masterpiece soon, conservation Get back in
Resort Villas then Casa Ana’s team as they touch with the
in central creative writing journey into the important stuff
Philippines, retreat provides Blue Mountains with the eight-
which is all the inspiration to care for day/seven-night
surrounded by you need to get Carne Creek and spiritual journey
tropical gardens started. Located in Wolgan River programme
and just a short the Sierra Nevada – important at Maya Ubud
walk from the mountains of habitats for Resort & Spa.
stunning beach. southern Spain, native wildlife. Your itinerary
Stay in the it holds four Learn about key will include
Digital Detox writing retreats issues impacting trips to nearby
Villa, where each year (March, the local wildlife temples, a visit
television and June, August, and and take part to a Balinese
Wi-Fi is strictly November) so in tree planting, healer and a
banned, so you you can focus on wildlife surveys, stroll through
can unplug and your prose in quiet feral animal the verdant rice
spend your surroundings, monitoring and paddies to gain
days nourishing glean advice from wombat surveys, a deeper insight
yourself with the professional among other into the Balinese
healthy food and mentors and take activities, as philosophy of
taking part in part in group you admire the life, with lots of
yoga classes. reading and scenery. spa pampering
critiquing sessions. in-between.
16 worldtravellermagazine.com
GLOBETROTTER
NEW HOTELS
FRESH
STAYS…
DUBAI
1 Mandarin Oriental
Jumeira, Dubai
Inside scoop: This Jeffrey
Wilkes designed property offers the
best of both worlds, having bagged
itself a coveted spot along Jumeirah
Beach, placing you just steps away from
the seafront and just a short drive away
from icon-packed Downtown Dubai
(in fact, it’s now the closest beachfront
resort). Scheduled to open in Q1 2019,
the hotel’s California-style aesthetic has
us reaching for our overnight bag.
The rooms and suites: You can choose
from a city or beach view, and most
guestrooms have a private balcony.
We say book a room overlooking the
pool and out towards the sea for the
dreamiest views.
The food: There are six restaurants
and lounges to discover, with signature
venues including the Warayakiya-style
Japanese restaurant and Portuguese
poolside eatery Tasca.
The spa: Be pampered in the spa with a
locally-inspired treatment and unwind
in the dedicated hammam-style suite.
Also nearby: It’s just five minutes to
thriving beach community La Mer,
where you can go to shop, grab a bite
to eat and hurl yourself down the slides
at Laguna Waterpark.
worldtravellermagazine.com 17
GLOBETROTTER
18 worldtravellermagazine.com
EXCEPTIONAL, INDIGENOUS, EXPERIENCE.
Experience the alluring, golden desert landscape, the captivating silence of nature, the free-roaming
wildlife in the reserve, all enjoyed from your private suite and pool. Indulge in a luxurious desert adventure
with camel treks, horseback riding, falconry, archery, dune drives and more.
Breeze through all the airport formalities with our meet &
greet services in Dubai and Bahrain.
meet & greet | family packages | marhaba lounge | citystop | transfer service
GLOBETROTTER
ON OUR
RADAR
Design enthusiasts will want
to be among the first to stay
in the new-look NIKA Private
Residence at Velaa Private
There are now regular non- Island, which has been
stop flights zipping between reimagined by interior
Abu Dhabi and Barcelona, designer Patricia
Spain, thanks to Etihad Urquiola. The beach
Airways, which launched its retreat, which
inaugural flight there at the sleeps up to 10, has
end of November 2018. The a natural tone with
new route (just shy of eight raffia, wood and earthy
textiles creating warmth.
Urban wonders
just got a whole lot
more accessible.
Stay at White Pearl
The Roman Colosseum and Great towards Sydney Harbour Bridge. Resort, where ocean
Wall of China may already be on Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo, for its safaris, game drives
your must-see list, but how many foodie, flea market appeal. and swimming with
of the new wave urban wonders Camden Market, London, due to wild dolphins are among the
are on your radar? Hilton Hotels & its rebellious and exciting persona. adventures to be had.
Resorts has recently unveiled the The Bund, Shanghai with its mile-
Seven Urban Wonders of the World, long stretch of waterfront and real Gordon Ramsay is turning
crowdsourced via influencers and life ‘museum of buildings’. Temple up the heat with the newly-
rated by criteria such as architecture, Street Night Markets, Hong Kong, opened Hell’s Kitchen
activities available and, of course, as a vibrant showcase for culture, at Caesars Palace
Instagrammability. Here’s what made food, and craft. Albertina, Vienna, Bluewaters
the cut… for its history, art galleries and Dubai. Serving
Louvre Abu Dhabi for its impressive museums. Indeed, Albertina is up an experiential
installations. Sydney Opera House for one the city’s most photographed and immersive
its cultural contribution to the city and buildings, commanding more than culinary experience,
picture-perfect viewpoint, looking out 70,000 Instagram posts. its coveted address
on Dubai’s newest island
destination adds to the allure.
The Knowledge
HOW TO...
22 worldtravellermagazine.com
Wellness Haven at Saray Spa.
Renew for the journey ahead.
A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa, where ancient
healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the well-being of each guest.
The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms, one Dead Sea treatment room boasting
the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two Private Luxury Spa Suites.
Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from
the results-oriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious gifts and spa products for every occasion.
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE
T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
The view from
STAY DIFFERENT WITH JUMEIRAH
Beach breaks
Jumeirah Al
Naseem
It's time to hit the sand! Let our handy guide point
you towards your perfect beach holiday in Dubai
You could just find a resort by the sea, or you You could just stay on the beach, or upgrade to a
could stay at a true icon of luxury… place that has its own luxury beach club…
Frequently voted one of the world's most luxurious hotels, Unwind in your very own pocket of beach bliss at Jumeirah
the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab commands attention along Al Naseem, the latest property to open at Madinat Jumeirah.
Dubai's coast. And while it's a given that you'll want to visit All the rooms and suites have postcard-worthy views towards
the architectural gem while on a trip – if only to admire it up Burj Al Arab or the Arabian Gulf, and expansive terraces that
close – staying there is something every discerning traveller edge the sandy beach. But the best bit, in our opinion, is the
should vow to do at least once in his or her life. Ask anyone who lure of Summersalt beach club, which has launched a new
has been lucky enough to check in and they'll admit that the Japanese fusion pop-up concept, Umi Shio, created by Japanese/
experience is impressive from the very start. Upon arrival, you Argentinian chef Cristian Goya. Blending the artful craft of
are discreetly escorted to your duplex suite which, due to the Japanese cooking, with the delicious flavours of South America,
property's smart design, has wow views of your unique location dishes are designed for sharing and feature authentic Japanese
and beyond through floor-to-ceiling windows. The beach and South American ingredients such as miso, yuzu, truffle
experience is as luxurious as you'd expect, and at the exclusive and lime in abundance. Open for lunch and dinner, it also
Burj Al Arab Terrace you'll find Scape restaurant (specialising serves a delicious selection of Japanese-inspired drinks to sip
in Californian-style cuisine), a dreamy infinity pool and cosy while admiring the view. And if you thought you'd reached peak
cabanas. Of course, there's plenty more at the property to relaxation throughout the day, bear in mind that Talise Spa is
entice, including the acclaimed Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara, just a hop, skip and a buggy ride away. We rate the Hot Sea Shell
and a chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royce to ferry you around town. massage, which helps banish tension and stress.
24 worldtravellermagazine.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X JUMEIRAH
GET HOLLYWOOD-
STYLE HEALTHCARE
Need more than a
massage? Visit the DNA
Health Clinic at Talise
Spa to explore your
DNA profile and genetic
blueprint for tips on
FULL MOON YOGA slowing down the ageing
AT TALISE SPA process, along with bio-
The full moon is said to SPA aesthetic treatments to
have a powerful effect on help you look your best.
our mood and energy. Feel
the benefits by taking part JUMEIRAH DAR
in this 90-minute yoga AL MASYAF
session under the stars, These summerhouses can
and stretch to a soundtrack go under the radar, but
of waves lapping the shore. their tranquil setting amid
the gardens, waterways,
JUMEIRAH AL QASR and private beach make
You couldn't wish for a them a gem if you're
SLEEP
better introduction to seeking something a bit
warm Arabian hospitality different from the norm.
than at this luxurious hotel,
which is designed in the
style of a Sheikh’s summer
residence. The rooms are
newly refurbished – we rate
the Arabian Deluxe suites,
which fit up to two adults
and two children, with
scenic views of the gardens
and waterways.
worldtravellermagazine.com 25
XXXXXXXXXXXXX
26 worldtravellermagazine.com
IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
Hello paradise!
Each one idyllic but uniquely over colourful sea life in
charmed, the Indian Ocean’s the space of an afternoon.
big hitting holiday islands Culturally vibrant Sri Lanka,
make for the ultimate escape, offers abundant UNESCO
if only for a long weekend World Heritage sights and
(although it's a fact you’ll wish an ever-expanding list of
for more when it’s time to luxury resort hotels. And
pack your bags). But which of then there’s the Maldives,
these islands is ideal for you? home to the over-the-water
Awash with history and villa, sugar-white beaches
with outdoor adventures and sunsets so beautiful your
on tap, Mauritius has heart melts.
much to complement its Across the next 10 pages
spectacular scenery, while we’re going to take you to
in the Seychelles you can paradise. What better way to
hike lush trails and snorkel ease yourself into 2019?
worldtravellermagazine.com 27
Standing tall in the heart of
C R E AT E Dubai Marina, featuring
incomparable panoramic views
SPECIAL of the city, combine the best
of all worlds with luxurious
WITH US.
destinations and a blissful
caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.
Maldives
I've heard that some resorts are more than an hour's seaplane
flight from Malé. Which ones are close to the airport?
Despite being a mere four-hour flight from the down from the upstairs balcony into the ocean).
UAE, some Maldives resorts are remote enough Also just 20 minutes in a speedboat from Velana
to require a further scheduled domestic flight International Airport (commonly referred to as
or, more commonly, a seaplane taxi, which will Malé International Airport) is Gili Lankanfushi.
likely stop at one or two other resorts along the A self-styled eco resort, the dwellings here
way to your own island escape. This can mean were built from sustainably-sourced materials
your actual travel time clocks in at over five while not compromising on luxury. Of them,
hours or more, so if you’re intent on squeezing our firm favourites are the Crusoe Residences:
in every possible moment in paradise, you two-storey, over-the-water villas stood a
should consider a resort that doesn’t require brief boat ride away from the main island.
you to take to the sky once more. One such Having recently removed the wraps from a
place is Jumeirah Vittaveli, which lies atop the two-year renovation, Baros Maldives is ripe for
ocean only 20 minutes (via a transfer aboard rediscovery – and only 20 minutes by speedboat
a motorised catamaran) from the airport. This from the airport. Enhancements to this much-
is a place that adds a splash of wow factor to loved Maldives stalwart (it welcomed its first
many of its offerings: the first ice rink in the guests in 1973) include the all-new Baros Suites,
Maldives and the newly opened Private Ocean just two standalone villas which come with huge
Retreats with Slide (yes, a slide, which winds private pools and stunning sea views as standard.
worldtravellermagazine.com 29
IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
1
Snorkelling or diving
are the obvious ways
to familarise yourself
with Maldives' enchanting
underwater world, but there
are a few more unique ways
to do so. It's home to the
world's first underwater spa
(Huvafen Fushi Maldives);
underwater bungalow
(Conrad Maldives Rangali
Island); and underwater
nightclub (Niyama Private
Islands Maldives).
2
Dining is a big deal in
Maldives, with some
resorts even flying in
LUX* North Malé Atoll Joali Maldives Michelin-starred chefs to
rustle up one-night-only
dinners for guests. Yet a
dining experience you'll
cherish for reasons beyond
what's on your plate is a
sandbank dinner – you'll
dine by flaming torches on
a private slice of sand just
for two. Heart melting.
3
Dolphins aren't
known for being shy,
but in Maldives they
go beyond offering the
odd tantalising glimpse
to staging a fully-fledged,
almost choreographed
show at sea. Myriad resorts
lay on a sunset dolphin
cruise and it's an absolute
must-do.
30 worldtravellermagazine.com
IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
worldtravellermagazine.com 31
IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
Our
favourite...
resorts for The iconic One&Only
32 worldtravellermagazine.com
Seychelles
BEST FOR... feeling you have paradise all to yourself
34 worldtravellermagazine.com
IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
Opposite: JA Enchanted
BEST FOR... walking among
Island Resort
This page, clockwise from giant tortoises
top: Anse Georgette; North
Island; sign leading the way A helicopter transfer from
to Aldabra giant tortoises
Mahé, Fregate Island
Private is home to just 16
discreet villas but some
2,000 or more Aldabra
giant tortoises, which roam
free across the forest-
thick island. A resident
conservationist will teach
your kids how to make
them move by scratching
their backs. The island's
myriad other natural
charms extend to organic
ingredients grown in the
resort's own plantation
and used extensively in
inventive menus.
BEST FOR... a royally
good honeymoon
British royals William and
Kate lost their hearts to
the Seychelles on more
than one occasion, heading
there first for a holiday
at the remote Desroches
Island (now the Four
Seasons Resort Seychelles
at Desroches Island) and
again for their honeymoon,
swapping islands for the
stunning, 11-villa North
Island. Hollywood royalty
followed suit – George
Clooney and his wife Amal
celebrated their nuptials at
the same resort.
BEST FOR... beautiful
worldtravellermagazine.com 35
Mauritius
The west and south west
Why stay here? you can now ascend it as part of a
The verdant valleys and pristine swathes guided hike operated by Yanature
of beach make this region the island's (trekkingmauritius.com). The soul-
most diverse and, in our opinion, its stirring views from the top are your
most scenic. In line with the topography, instant reward.
the tourist attractions range from the Get active
Chamarel Coloured Earths (a natural The steady winds that blow in this
phenomenon comprised of seven direction make for excellent kitesurfing
distinctly coloured sands) to swimming conditions. Ion Club (ion-club.net)
with wild dolphins. rents out the necessary equipment and
In the history books offers a complete kitesurfing tuition
The storied mountain of Le Morne programme to beginners.
(fleeing slaves scaled it to build small Where to stay
settlements, before tragically choosing In the shadow of Le Morne is the
to jump when faced with recapture) wonderful LUX* Le Morne, whose all-
is a UNESCO World Heritage Site inclusive packages help take the stress
and a defining symbol of the island. out of having to decide between luxury
Off limits to hikers for decades, temptations aplenty.
36 worldtravellermagazine.com
IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
Main image: Monkeys
at Black River Gorges
National Park
Inset: Food at Shanti
Maurice
worldtravellermagazine.com 37
I WANT TO... STAY SOMEWHERE STYLISH
Tri didn't need to look beyond the natural to
create its luxury design hotel. Crafted entirely
from recycled jak wood and local granite, the
villas here also feature 'living' roofs, planted
with native creepers, water grass, and dwarf
bamboo. The pick of them is the secluded
Lake Villa, so named for affording guests
Sri Lanka
uninterrupted views over Lake Koggala.
38 worldtravellermagazine.com
IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
worldtravellermagazine.com 39
WORLD TRAVELLER X AL BALEED RESORT SALALAH BY ANANTARA
40 worldtravellermagazine.com
Stretch out The chickpea
with yoga on burger is a
the beach healthy choice
I
f you’ve pledged to improve your health this year, enrolling Kick-start the
detox process in
in a wellness retreat may give you the nudge you need to the hammam
get started, and we know a great option on your doorstep.
Nestled between a private beach and a freshwater lagoon,
Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara is offering health buffs
an à la carte style retreat experience in serene surroundings.
What’s more, the Balance Wellness by Anantara programme
can be tailored to suit your individual needs, so whether you
want to clean up your diet or build more activity into your
day, you can feel confident that you are getting the most
from the experience. Upon arrival, you’ll sit down with a
consultant to discuss your goals. Depending on how long
you’re staying (there are three-, five- and seven-day packages
available), you’ll be asked to pick from a mood-boosting
combination of nourishing meals, energy-pumping activities
and rejuvenating spa therapies, and your wellbeing expert
will draw you up a bespoke itinerary.
NOURISH YOURSELF
Staying full-board is part of the package, taking the
stress out of planning what to eat and where. Sit down to
a nourishing menu of healthy food created by renowned
Italian vegan chef Valeria Agnelutto. Designed to detoxify
and energise the system while delivering maximum
flavour, dishes include Italian pasta e fagioli and chickpea
burgers with rosemary and parsley and veggie mayo. The
three-course meals also include delicious starters such
as avocado tartare with cucumber and dates and raw
tiramisu for dessert. Plus, each dish comes with a detailed head, to harmonise the entire body. If you're staying for the
nutritional breakdown and is accompanied by vitamin- long haul, you’ll also be able to take advantage of additional
packed raw juice. discounts on all spa and wellness treatments.
worldtravellermagazine.com 41
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Postcards
Stories from journeys
far and wide
worldtravellermagazine.com 43
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44 World
worldtravellermagazine.com
Traveller
HONG KONG
worldtravellermagazine.com 45
HONG KONG
‘ I INHALED A HONG
chandeliers, potted ferns stood about like
plumed Tiller Girls. Guests contemplated
the towering scones of its afternoon tea KONG THAT COULD
in the lobby. In its ’50s French restaurant, ONLY HAVE SEEPED
Gaddi’s, I raised a glass to Gable, Gardner UP THROUGH THE
CRACKS BETWEEN
’
and stars who’d been here before me. And
after dark I got the bigger picture, in the
top-floor lounge, Felix, a ’90s-retro zone EAST AND WEST
of gauzy Starck drapes and Barbie-ish
furniture. Across the waters of Victoria
Harbour, lit by the fireflies of red junks
on tourist duty, was Hong Kong Island,
a nightscape of skyscrapers pushing
kaleidoscopic product placements on the A boredom with bland brands? Whatever,
horizon. Panasonic, Prudential, Bank of it was potent. I inhaled a Hong Kong
America, Merrill Lynch. I felt like a transit that could only have seeped up through
passenger in the Lost Land of Brands. the cracks between East and West.
In search of a more local impression, the Down the road, English chef Jason
next day I took the Star Ferry from Kowloon Atherton had scented local promise,
to the island for the funicular railway to the planting his restaurant, Aberdeen Street
Peak. It felt touristy (I became an expert on Social, in a striking piece of retro Hong
Melbourne, eavesdropping on the seven- Kong architecture called PMQ. I admired
minute ascent), but the city explained itself its modernism, pale in the gentle late sun,
more clearly as I saw last night’s view back as Chinese banyans climbed the perimeter
over the waters. Kowloon lay north, the wall and diners lounged on the terrace.
Peninsula the size of a Monopoly piece; A rare survivor in this pull-it-down
the New Territories stretched beyond, town, it was built in 1951 as quarters for
fading, somewhere, to China. Below lay the young married police officers, and spared
view known from postcards: the towers demolition when that closed in 2000.
of commerce splayed by perspective, like It’s a head-turner, the living spaces now
monster shocks of quartz. It was sensational brimming with cafes and pop-ups.
but remote. And robotic on closer One stood out, stacked with nostalgic-
inspection — Hong Kong seemed to move witty ceramics and camp-as-candy ‘Suzie
without much actual human motion: on Wong Night Club’-logo bags — the calling
escalators under the plinths of skyscrapers; card of Goods of Desire, an indigenous
along travelators through endless malls; star in the international city firmament
or in its trademark red-and-white taxis, of Prada and Versace. Douglas Young, the
pouring across flyovers, like torrents of tiny Hong Konger behind the brand, works
kiddies’ sweets off a factory conveyor belt. in an atelier across town, in Kowloon’s
I needed to find my feet — which is Sham Shui Po — Garment District. The
where Wanderlust Walks stepped in. Alex, premises are easy to find, in the Jockey
the German expat behind it, recommended Club Creative Arts Centre — an artists’
a ‘street art’ stroll as the way to taste colony in a converted nine-storey factory
home-grown Hong Kong — and what she (you can sign up for a nose around). He
didn’t know about the city’s emerging was a chatty dynamo, his mission — to
talent you could daub on a dumpling. make the Hong Kong he loves tangible,
Around Tai Ping Shan, a tram ride what with Asian traditions ‘on the verge
from Central, the street walls were a blast of extinction in a western-centric world’.
of psychedelic cartoons, the fruit of the ‘There’s still relatively little study
city’s big spray-can art festival, HK Walls. on Hong Kong culture — books,
We wandered alleys, past a Bruce Lee movies, music,’ he said. ‘I want to make
mural here (signed Xeva, South Korea), things that address that imbalance,
a scarlet strumpet there (Neil Wang, that young people want to buy.’
Hong Kong). A challenge to authority? I adored his Angry Cat toys sticking up
46 worldtravellermagazine.com
This page, clockwise
from top left: Neon
signs light the night
sky; rainbow village
basketball court;
an office buiding's
illuminated facade;
Popinjay's at The worldtravellermagazine.com
World Traveller 47
Murray Hotel
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48 worldtravellermagazine.com
HONG KONG
‘GLAMOROUS
a middle finger — spoofing the classic
golden waving lucky cats that spell good NEW HOTELS
fortune in Asia. I had a wander around
FIZZ INTO
Sham Shui Po and the streets he strolls
for inspiration. It was intoxicating, all THE SKY LIKE
FIREWORKS IN
’
gaudy tropical prints on cheap fabric
rolls, shabby shopfronts shedding
wizened lettering, and grimy Art Deco
THIS TOWN
curves of wilting apartment balconies.
Sham Shui Po was a whiff of a Hong
Kong loved by generations, where street
food adhered to methods decades old: In Hong Kong, imitation can be an
at Kung Wo Beancurd Factory a noisy amusing game. I loved the way the
antediluvian drum of gloop whirled chef at trendy Mott 32, in Central,
alarmingly, but the tofu pud was a silky seemed to be having such fun with
treat, made to a recipe passed down staples. His Peking duck spring
through the business. I copied the rolls came stuffed with that healthy
regulars and stuck my face silently into western obsession, kale, unexpectedly
my bowl, spooning up sweetness as stunning. His bao buns seemed a
ethereal as a cloud. By evening, south thumbs-up to Spain (Hemingway
of Sham Shui Po, I was with the crowds would definitely have had those).
of Mong Kok area; among love’s young- Things were contrastingly high-
dreams feeding each other tubs of fish temple-serious that last night, at Fish
balls slathered in chilli sauce bought School: a Helsinki-goes-to-Hong Kong
from kiosks lining the pavements. haunt in the San-Francisco-steep quarter
With prices requiring mere shrapnel- of Sai Ying Pun. Counterbalancing the
change, there was no need to know spare aesthetic of stone and timber,
what you were ordering. Just point dishes were rich, the flavours engagingly
and devour (or discreetly discard). alien. Only when Chris, the chef, whipped
I knew where to take my brunch out his phone to show a photo of a
cravings next morning: to Kennedy bramble he’d picked that morning in the
Town, 25 minutes by tram from Central, New Territories to adorn my pudding,
on the western tip of Hong Kong Island did I realise: he’d been foraging.
where giddy-tall tenements meet ‘I like to work with the kind of
tropic-blue sea. Here, tradition seemed stuff my mum used to get from the
content to co-exist with gentrification, market,’ he said, with a sage’s poise, as I
evidenced by rents trailing many hoovered up a starter of glistening fish.
zeroes in estate-agent windows, the It looked like dill-laced salmon but was,
honeypot Lebanese-owned cafe, Catch, he told me, cobia, rolled in seaweed. ‘It’s
doing avocado every which way. local — caught in the South China Sea.’
I gave that one a miss for Cheung With Fish School, the aim was
Heung, a cha chaan teng, or classic to offer ‘a slice of what the city can
Hong Kong tea house. ‘It has been provide’. That didn’t include one
here at least 50 years,’ said Kevin, curious striped specimen in the fish
grandson of the owners, as I tank. ‘It’s a knifejaw,’ he told me. ‘We
snapped the Formica fittings. put it on the menu, but nobody knew
The coconut tarts were hanging what it was, so we kept it as our pet.’
around for seconds, stuffed into paper Some things it seems are still
bags for a patient fan base, queueing. too local, even for the locals.
‘Hong Kong original!’ said the man at the
next table, pointing at my custard tart. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call
‘If you find in China, it is imitation!’ +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com
worldtravellermagazine.com 49
ROADS TO RECOVERY
After a
tough year,
Alex Allen feels
the need for
fresh horizons
— and on a
drive through
America’s
soul-stirring
canyonlands, he
discovers the
widest in the
world
50 worldtravellermagazine.com
US ROAD TRIP
worldtravellermagazine.com 51
T HE ONE THING YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT 24/7 circus, where even time seemed to
have lost its grip on reality. It was fun
VALLEY IS THAT IT’S COLD. BREATH-STEALINGLY, when the day came to jump in my rented
Jeep and head out of town, I was ready.
52 worldtravellermagazine.com
US ROAD TRIP
Opposite: Arches
National Park
This page: Route 66
motel sign
‘
shades of pink and blue. In Seligman, down and take stock, to appreciate just
I pulled over for tacos at Delgadillo’s how far from home I did feel — in a good EMERGING LIKE
Snow Cap Drive-In — an eccentric, way. For the last year and a half I’d been
GHOSTS FROM
homespun place, with rusty old almost umbilically-linked to a hospital.
A GLOWING,
EMBER-RED
Chevrolets displayed outside. But the But now the major ties had been cut,
road wouldn’t wait. I had another 280km there was a catharsis in the gobbling-up
to go to my first overnight stop, and of distance. And there was also a feeling LANDSCAPE,
it was a biggie: the Grand Canyon. — despite the unending scale of the WERE TWO,
THREE, FOUR,
’
It is practically impossible to grasp, region — of a comforting familiarity.
let alone convey in words, the scale of
the Grand Canyon. It even defied the
The handful of people I’d had encounters
with, gift-shop owners, petrol-station WHITE HORSES
empirical capabilities of my camera. clerks, diner waitresses, had been
Every picture I took on the slow cruise chatty and open. Every little cottage
east along the South Rim the next day, or cottonwood-shaded farm I passed Nation seal, vehicles bearing an insignia
came out flat and inadequate. ‘Yeah, felt like somewhere I could stop for that at first I thought must belong to
that’s what it looked like’ I could see directions, and maybe a glass of iced tea an environmental agency, but later
myself telling blank-faced friends back on the porch. But then things changed. discovered was the Navajo Nation police.
home, ‘but, like, way bigger!’ In the end The Navajo Nation is the largest Native And then, on reaching the Monument
I realised the only thing to do was just American territory in the US, covering Valley area, I realised I was the only
commit as much to memory as I could: a vast swathe of the ‘four corners’ area non-Navajo speaker in a chattering
the low scud of rain clouds across the (encompassing Colorado, Utah, Arizona grocery store queue. It was a moment of
horizon; the flash of the Colorado River, and New Mexico). And I had absolutely wonderful, unexpected, bewilderment.
just visible from certain angles; and the no idea I had crossed into it until I Before I arrived, I’d imagined
roaring silence of that big red hole. began to spot the signs: placards on Monument Valley — as recognisably
It was also an opportunity to slow municipal buildings carrying the Navajo American as the Coca-Cola logo, or
worldtravellermagazine.com 53
This page: A Navajo
woman with a loom in
Monument Valley
54 worldtravellermagazine.com
US ROAD TRIP
‘
IT IS PRACTICALLY
IMPOSSIBLE TO GRASP,
LET ALONE CONVEY IN
WORDS, THE SCALE OF
THE GRAND CANYON
’
the red tab on a pair of Levi’s — as an I eventually chose. ‘The buffalo is simply aren’t enough adjectives (or
over-commercialised film set. I was symbolic of humbleness, a reminder to column inches) to describe all three
sure there’d be corny stagecoach rides, take only what you need.’ In truth, I’d in a way that comes close to doing
a fancy-dress cowboy to take selfies bought it to be polite. But it would end them justice. Each is as memorable
with, and hordes of tourists. Instead, up becoming a treasured souvenir. as the next, from Capitol Reef’s ghost
the following morning, I found myself My next stop, the town of Moab, town of Fruita, to Bryce Canyon’s
alone on Patsy’s minibus, as we rumbled a day’s drive north into Utah, was forest of stalagmite-like ‘hoodoo’
to the valley entrance under a dawn sky a humble kind of place itself — rock formations. In the end, it was a
still frosted with stars. I knew November particularly given its location, as the final standout moment that swayed
was low season, but I didn’t think I’d get gateway to both Canyonlands and it for Zion — the one that left the
it all to myself. Yes, there was a visitors' Arches National Parks. I bedded down deepest lasting impression.
centre and gift shop, and a modest for two nights, just long enough to I was still on the fringes of the park
fee for taking your car along the 27km cover the main sights. In Canyonlands when it happened. Up ahead, and to
scenic loop, but beyond that, the site I took my 4x4 off-road, rattling along the left of the endlessly straight road,
was untouched by tarmac, mascots or sandy, snow-dappled tracks that where the land rolled away in a series
hot-dog stands. ‘That’s just one of the led to plummeting overlooks. of undulating hills, I saw something
advantages of not being a US national If I’d felt alone previously, it was moving. As I stopped and got out to
park,’ Patsy said with a wry chuckle, as nothing compared to what I experienced take a closer look, the dry-cold wind
we stopped to take in a panorama of here. Whereas the Grand Canyon, bit at my face. Leaning on the fence
buttes and cliffs washed in the amber and even Monument Valley, had had post, I watched a herd of buffalo
light of sunrise. Monument Valley a sense of well-trodden familiarity, rumble towards me over the crest of
belongs to the Navajo, and is sensitively Canyonlands felt truly, eerily wild. a hill. There was something touching
managed for the benefit of those who Fearful thoughts began to nag. Who about the way they moved, heads
still live and farm on the valley floor. would find me if I broke down? The bowed under their own weight, both
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing
As part of the tour, which is the only wolves? The wildcats? Spooked, I formidable and vulnerable — living
way to get off and beyond the marked- sped back to the safety of town. remnants of an older time, when they
out loop road, we stopped at a small In Arches, I was pleasantly surprised would have covered this landscape
homestead that consisted of two prefab to find crowds. I tagged along with in their millions. This time, I didn’t
houses, a chicken coop, a basketball them around the wind-formed bother to lift my camera. Just standing
hoop and a mud-splattered truck. There bridges and towers of rock, like a giant there and watching in silence as they
was also a traditional earthen ‘hogan’ sculpture garden, and followed their thundered past, trailing a cloud of dust,
house, which Patsy ushered me into, cues on where to stop and gawp. It was enough. After they’d disappeared, I
where a Navajo woman sat spinning was nice to be part of a flock again. turned back to the car. Like the buffalo,
yarn on a creaking loom. As the two But it couldn’t last. I had a few more I too was pushing on, moving forward,
women chatted, I self-consciously checkpoints to cross off on this greatest- trying to take only what I needed.
browsed the jewellery displayed along a hits road trip: Capitol Reef, Bryce
shelf. ‘That’s a nice one,’ Patsy reassured Canyon and Zion National Parks. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call
me, of the buffalo-pendant necklace Frankly, and frustratingly, there +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com
worldtravellermagazine.com 55
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56 worldtravellermagazine.com
NORWAY
worldtravellermagazine.com 57
NORWAY
‘OUR TORCHES
y sister is you really get to know an entire pack
kneeling in the of huskies — pet them, feed them,
snow with tears FLASH IN harness them. It’s run by Trine Lyrek, a
cascading down THE SILVERY warm-spirited and passionate musher
her cheeks.
DARKNESS AND who has competed in the Iditarod, the
Nuzzling in
THE STARS legendary 1,000-mile Alaskan husky race.
ABOVE US ARE
the crook of As well as offering a range of
her arm is sledding adventures, her yard is an
AS BRIGHT
’
the tawny black head of Neos. He’s active racing kennel. All the huskies
looking up at her with quizzical honey-
coloured eyes, wagging his tail.
AS LEDS here are elite athletes, but Trine has
purposely bred them to be comfortable
“You’re my new friend, aren’t you boy,” with strangers, starting when her
she whispers. He gives her face a fat lick. puppies are born in the summer and
“I think Neos knows you are Neos. We all find a favourite. I hope my visitors book to go hiking with them.
sad,” says Alexi, my son. sister is finding something more. The dogs are such a welcoming
“I’m not sad,” sobs my sister. Six months previously her beloved bunch, it’s hard to tear ourselves away
“I couldn’t be happier.” dog, Willow, died of cancer. The day the from them — until someone mentions
It’s our first morning at Trasti & Trine, vet came to put Willow down I made a hot reindeer stew. It is waiting for us
a two-acre homestead in Finnmark, promise that, although my heartbroken in the warmth of a rustic farmhouse.
northeastern Norway, and we have been sister was going to take a while to be This is the domain of Trine’s husband,
in the dog yard since we got here an hour ready for a new pet, we would go on a Johnny Trasti. He was a chef for the
ago. It’s minus 5C, the snow is thick on holiday that would be all about dogs. Norwegian prime minister (he has also
the ground and the pale February sun I’d been husky sledding before, but cooked for President Putin) and now
is only just peeping above the horizon, only for a couple of hours, and (as it often runs a Michelin-star-worthy restaurant,
but we’ve barely noticed the cold. is) the trip was just one event in a list of smokery and bakery on the homestead.
We have 60 Alaskan huskies to get snow-based activities. I had found it a All his cooking is based on local,
to know. Each is tethered to a wooden rather impersonal experience with the organic ingredients: wild salmon, Arctic
kennel bearing its name. Some lie in dogs. When we got to the sled they were char and pike from the nearby Alta River;
the snow, some are curled up inside already harnessed up and ready to run. reindeer and elk from the mountains;
their huts, just their snouts poking But Trasti & Trine, just outside the lingonberries and cloudberries foraged
out. Others stand majestically on their small coastal town of Alta, in a remote from secret marshlands; king crab,
kennel roofs. We work our way through area of flat-topped mountains and scallops and cod from the nearby Barents
them with head scratches, pats and snowy forests, offers something unique: Sea. People travel from all over Norway
paw shakes. Crocs, Bacon, Peso, Isma, a chance to stay on a homestead where to enjoy his tasting menus based on the
58 worldtravellermagazine.com
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worldtravellermagazine.com 59
NORWAY
60 worldtravellermagazine.com
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‘
OUT OF
NOWHERE, THE
NORTHERN
LIGHTS STRETCH
OUT ABOVE THE
HOMESTEAD
’
worldtravellermagazine.com 61
worldtravellermagazine.com
Your passport to the Middle East's first fully
bookable travel inspiration website
Weekends
Staycations and short-haul escapes
OLD KID ON
THE BLOCK
Abu Dhabi’s original urban
block, Al Hosn, has re-opened
to the public following
conservation works. The
oldest, most significant
heritage site in the city, it
comprises four interrelated
components, including Qasr
Al Hosn, which tells the story
of the emirate's evolution
from 18th-century fishing
and pearling settlement to
modern metropolis. View the
exhibition at the Inner Fort
before touring the Outer
Palace, which shares the
stories of the people who
lived there, offering a glimpse
into their everyday lives.
© Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi. Photo by Roland Halbe
worldtravellermagazine.com 63
WEEKENDS
Reasons to go back to
THE CREEK
Rediscover the historic heart of the city thanks to the
new wave of attractions and activities at Dubai Creek
1
Boutique stays
Tucked away amid the
rooftops and courtyards
of a souk, Al Seef Hotel
by Jumeirah is just like a
traditional Arabian bayt
(home). Spread across
several clusters of buildings,
the hotel transports you to
old-world Arabia with its
views along the ambient
alleyways of the bazaar and
of the waterway, all wrapped
up in authentic design details,
such as woven fabrics and
wooden beams.
2
Shatter your
illusions
For a novel,
Insta-friendly museum
experience, check out the
mind-bending Museum
of Illusions in Al Seef. It's
home to 80 quizzical
exhibits, including the
Alice in Wonderland-
esque Ames Room, where
you shrink or grow as you
move through the space.
Al Seef Hotel by Jumeirah
3 4
View a contemporary Floating tours
art gem Docked on the Bur
The recently-opened Dubai side of the
Jameel Arts Centre, located creek, JA Bateaux Dubai
at the tip of Al Jaddaf offers a fresh perspective
Waterfront, is home to on the area's vibrant souks
curated commissions, and aged dhows. Step
projects and exhibitions aboard the Sundowner
drawn from regional and Cruise (from 5-6pm) and
international artists. Even the you can take in the sights
gardens that punctuate the from the outdoor deck.
building are achingly artistic, Or, there's the option to
designed by landscape linger over a meal served
architect Anouk Vogel and to a classy soundtrack.
featuring rare plants.
64 worldtravellermagazine.com
long weekend This page: Alexanderplatz
and Television Tower
Opposite from top:
the Reichstag building;
Provocateur
Berlin
From a divided city
to an achingly cool
capital, Berlin hums
with creative energy
and exciting things
to see and do, says
resident Lara Brunt
the
66 worldtravellermagazine.com
LONG WEEKEND
Third Reich, the Cold War left the city brutally divided into
East and West by the Berlin Wall. Following reunification in
1990, ample space and cheap rents lured creative types to
Berlin and resulted in an explosion of art, music and culture.
Today, Berlin offers history and hipsters at every turn.
The central Mitte district is packed with enough attractions
to keep you busy for days, including the World Heritage-
listed Museum Island and Brandenburg Gate.
Straddling the Spree, the hip ‘hoods of Kreuzberg
and Friedrichshain are bustling with clubs, cafés and
restaurants. Heading west, Tiergarten is dominated by the
park of the same name, while upmarket Charlottenburg is
home to Ku’damm, Berlin’s main shopping mile. And no trip
KNOWN FOR ITS CUTTING-EDGE CULTURE, 24-HOUR to Berlin is complete without paying a visit to the splendid
NIGHTLIFE AND FREE-SPIRITED VIBE, you’d be hard- palaces of Potsdam on the outskirts of the city.
pressed to find a capital as cool as Berlin. Our Berlin guide offers a curated list of the best things to
Founded in the 13th century on the River Spree, Berlin see and do, and the hippest places to eat, shop and sleep.
has had a turbulent history. After the devastation of Hitler’s So, let’s start exploring…
worldtravellermagazine.com 67
retail
therapy
From fashion to furniture,
Berlin’s shopping scene is
as eclectic as the city itself
KaDeWe
Opened in 1907 and
recently revamped by
Pritzker Prize-winning
architect Rem Koolhaas,
KaDaWe is Berlin’s
counterpart to Harrods. ART GALLERIES book in advance, but
both the contemporary
Strasse as Andreas
Murkudis’ concept store
Spread over 60,000sqm, Home to more than 400 art collection and the (see 'retail therapy'). The
the department store galleries, Berlin has one building itself – a World gallery’s roster of artists
stocks a dazzling array of of the most exciting art War II bunker – warrant a includes top names such
luxury brands from around scenes on the planet visit. Opt for a group tour as Lynn Chadwick, Wim
the world. Don’t miss the The epicentre of Berlin’s (Thursdays to Sundays) Wenders and Bill Viola.
sixth-floor food hall, where post-Wall contemporary or a private viewing of the Finish up at the nearby
you can shop for artisan art scene, Auguststrasse current exhibition, which Urban Nation (urban-
cheese and chocolate, and in Mitte is a great place features works by Andreas nation.com), the world’s
dine at more than a dozen to start your gallery hop. Eriksson and Guan Xiao. first major museum
high-end food counters. Stop by the KW Institute Then continue northwest dedicated exclusively to
Frau Tonis Parfum for Contemporary to the Hamburger street art and graffiti.
Bottle a bit of the Art (kw-berlin.de) and Bahnhof (smb.museum),
city’s bohemian me Collectors Room one of the world’s
spirit at this (me-berlin.com), two largest museums for
sleek perfumery sprawling galleries contemporary art. Housed
near Checkpoint showcasing local and in a former railway
Charlie. Founders international works, station, works range from
Stefanie Hanssen and pop into Clärchens Andy Warhol and Roy
and Christoph Ballhaus to the see the Lichtenstein to the German
Niedermeier’s unique beautiful 19th-century artist Joseph Beuys.
fragrances evoke the Berlin mirrored ballroom. Next, take public
of the Roaring Twenties, Wander over to the transport south to Blain
including the best-selling Boros Collection Southern (blainsouthern.
Violet No.37 inspired by (sammlung-boros. com) in the same former
Marlene Dietrich. You de); you’ll need to factory on Potsdamer
can even get a custom-
blended scent to match
your style, or try your hand
at creating your own.
Andreas Murkudis
In a former printing COOL CAFÉS
factory in the Tiergarten Coffee is serious business in Berlin, with third-wave
neighbourhood, this roasters and independent cafés packed with laptop-
concept store showcases toting locals. In Mitte’s gallery district, The Barn
(thebarn.de) focuses on single-origin coffee, while the
an eclectic edit of more
croissants are so popular you can only buy two at a
than 300 brands in a
time. Over in Friedrichshain, Silo Coffee (instagram.
gallery-like space.
com/silocoffee) does a mean flat white, while in a red-
There’s a mix of established
brick former factory in Kreuzberg, Bonanza Roastery
brands – think Dries
Café (bonanzacoffee.de) serves one of the smoothest
Van Noten and Comme
cappuccinos in town. Their beans are also served at The
des Garçons – and
Store (thestores.com), an über-cool concept store and
freshly discovered café on the ground floor of Soho House in Mitte.
designers that favour a
minimalist aesthetic.
68 worldtravellermagazine.com
Opposite from top: Artist at LONG WEEKEND
work; Hamburger Bahnhof; a
flat white at The Barn
This page from top: A dish by
Horváth; Boxhagener Platz
HOT TABLES
Once a culinary backwater, Berlin now
boasts innovative restaurants and a
constellation of Michelin stars
RESTAURANT TIM RAUE Not far from Checkpoint
Charlie, Tim Raue serves highly creative, Asian-
influenced fusion cuisine. Dishes such as wasabi
langoustine and Peking duck three ways have earned
the Berlin-born chef two Michelin stars. tim-raue.com
COOKIES & CREAM Berlin is Europe’s vegan capital,
and the city’s first meat-free fine diner has been
awarded a Michelin star. Chef Stephan Hentschel
works his magic on dishes such as mushroom ravioli
with wild herbs and Parmesan dumplings with
Périgord truffle stock. cookiescream.com
HORVÁTH This cosy, wood-panelled restaurant in
Kreuzberg is another of Berlin’s more unconventional
Michelin-starred spots. Chef Sebastian Frank – named
European Chef of the Year – serves imaginative twists
on Austrian favourites. finesse. restaurant-horvath.de
insider tips
Domingos Ruiz
Lepores, editor of
Awesome Berlin
(awesomeberlin.
net), shares his
top picks for...
exploring the city:
“I always take visitors to Dahlem, a leafy
residential neighbourhood with the
most beautiful houses in Berlin. Stop
by the Domäne Dahlem, a small farm
where you can buy homegrown fruits
and vegetables. My favourite hidden
gem is Gartenstadt Falkenberg in the
TO MARKET
Foodies should make a
Street Food Thursday
and Breakfast Market,
which takes place every
and boutiques. On
Sundays, Mitte’s
Mauerpark market
far eastern neighbourhood of Grunau.
beeline for Markthalle third Sunday. is a must for lovers
This UNESCO World Heritage-listed Neun (markthalleneun. On Saturdays, of vintage and vinyl.
modernist housing estate was designed de), a 19th-century head to Boxhagener If the sun is shining,
by architect Bruno Taut, who also market hall in trendy Platz – aka Boxi – in stroll over to the
influenced the Bauhaus movement. Kreuzberg that focuses the hip Friedrichshain amphitheatre for
on regional farmers neighbourhood for Bearpit Karaoke –
And don’t leave Berlin without climbing
and artisan purveyors. the weekly farmers’ easily one of the most
the 285 steps of the Victory Column in Regular events include market and explore entertaining afternoons
Tiergarten for one of the best views of the hugely popular the surrounding cafés you’ll ever have.
To market
the city from above.
worldtravellermagazine.com 69
Family first
If spending more time with loved ones is at the top of your list this year, then
it's high time to feel the family-friendly staycay vibes at Fairmont The Palm
70 worldtravellermagazine.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X FAIRMONT THE PALM
T
here are two main camps end. You’ll find the family pools to the right 3 ACTIVITIES
of people when it comes to of the hotel – the first you come across is FOR BUSY BEES
organising family holidays: the shallowest where kids are free to roam,
those who are open to going under a watchful eye, without wandering
with the flow, and those who out of their depth (our two-year-old couldn’t
prefer to precision plan their stays. If you touch the bottom near the basketball hoop,
fall into the latter category, you’ll be cursed but the rest of the pool was perfect for him).
with a checklist as long as your arm that no Just beyond this is the splash park where
doubt has to be carefully cross examined vibrant sprinklers invite water babies to play.
before committing to leaving the house The private beach (open from 6.30am to
with the little ones in tow. Common points sunset, depending on the season) is reached
that are non-negotiable include having an via a short walkway which opens out to a
entertaining kids’ club, toddler-friendly stretch of soft sand and marked swimming
swimming pool and plenty of space to spread area, with great views towards Dubai Marina
out in. Thankfully, families are blessed with and the Ain Dubai Ferris wheel.
an impressive number of staycation options There are plenty of watersports available, Fun at Fairmont
in the UAE, and Fairmont The Palm is on the from kayaking to sailing lessons and there’s Falcons Kids' Club
radar as a top choice for parents in search of also a cool line-up of fitness activities to The little ones will love the line-
a fuss-free break away. try, such as PRAMA by up of activities crafted by the
Tucked along Pavigym, which will put in-house playmakers, along
‘
the trunk of Palm a hi-tech spin on your with books, toys and jigsaw
Jumeirah, the hotel’s
island location lends
The hotel’s training session as you
strive to stay in step with
puzzles to get stuck into.
vacation vibe
’
sea breeze wash over it out, you can drop them
you that screams at Fairmont Falcons Kids'
“holiday”. Those of you Club (for ages 18 months
with younger kids will to six years) where they
agree that a speedy can tackle the climbing
check-in is worth its weight in gold and the wall, get absorbed in arts and crafts, play
aptly named Fairmont Gold experience is dress up or kick back with video games in the
like getting access to a secret hotel within a chillout zone.
hotel. With it, you’ll be able to usher the kids
straight past the main reception and up to Dinner companions Friday family lunch
the ninth floor where a private, lounge-style Family-friendly dining venues are easy at Flow Kitchen
space awaits. Simply collect your key as your to come by, with Flow Kitchen offering Taking place from 12.30pm-
kids gulp down fresh juice and get stuck into something to suit all tastes – the Friday 3.30pm, you can dine al
their activity packs, and you’ll be in your family lunch is especially popular among fresco at this fun family buffet
room in a flash. guests of all ages. Blowfish does American – the pick 'n' mix style sweetie
Fairmont Gold Rooms come with one king style ‘grab and go’ dishes such as burgers and counter will blow their minds.
bed or two queen beds, with cots available crazy shakes by the beach while the vibrant
upon request, and interconnecting rooms interiors of Little Miss India invite you to
available for larger broods. If you need more taste Indian cuisine. There are children’s
space still, you can upgrade to a suite, the menus available at the majority of venues,
pinnacle of which is the Deluxe Suite, which offering a healthy twist on the usual kid-
has a separate living room and dedicated friendly favourites, but if you don’t feel like
dining space, as well as an adjoining butler’s leaving your room, the in-room dining is
pantry, large terrace and access to all the a great option (we’ve never seen our kids
signature benefits, such as complimentary devour so much food in one sitting). Order
breakfast in the lounge and afternoon tea glasses of milk for your pyjama-clad mini-
served from 2-4pm. mes so they can settle down to sleep while Be pampered at
you sneak out onto the terrace to recount Willow Stream Spa
Adventure in spades memories of the day. Unwind with a traditional
If you’re eager to get out and enjoy the winter Moroccan hammam and tip-
sunshine, the swimming pools and beach To find out more call +971 4 457 3388 to-toe body scrub at this multi-
are enough to keep you busy for hours on or visit fairmont.com/palm award-winning spa.
worldtravellermagazine.com 71
WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA
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76 worldtravellermagazine.com
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worldtravellermagazine.com 79
DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS
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80 worldtravellermagazine.com
THROUGH
THE LENS
Sultan Qaboos Mosque
in Sohar, Oman
“This mosque had popped up
in my Instagram feed a few
times so I was determined to
go and photograph it for my
MasjidSeries project, which
documents mosques around
the world to portray Islam in
a beautiful, positive light. Its
architecture is very heavily
influenced by Persian and
Central Asian Islamic design,
and the person in the shot
reveals its scale – this isn't even
the main door, it's just a side
door! I enjoyed my visit so much
that I ended up spending around
four hours there and was able
to pray Asr and Maghreb. It was
the trip that made me fall in
love with Oman.”
Dubai-based investment
banker turned photographer,
Alamash Javed, loves to
travel because “it helps open
up my mind and appreciate
the world” @aljvd;
altamashjaved.com
82 worldtravellermagazine.com
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A dunk above Bucket list Rooms with a
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worldtravellermagazine.com 83
Suite dreams
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84 worldtravellermagazine.com
Ronald Codrai © Department of Culture and Tourism - Abu Dhabi
DISCOVER
T H E S TO R I E S
O F O U R N AT I O N ’ S
P R O U D PA S T.
ABU DHABI’S
LEGACY AND HISTORY.
Qasr Al Hosn is the oldest and most significant building
in Abu Dhabi. It includes the city’s first permanent
structure, a coral and sea stone watch tower built to
protect the settlement of Abu Dhabi established on the
island in the 1760s. Qasr Al Hosn became home to the
ruling family, a seat of government, and it now stands as
our nation’s living monument, telling the story of
Abu Dhabi and its people.