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10 easy steps to create The “Classic” Princess

Seams Bodice
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How to create the classic princess seam pattern from a two dart bodice.

There are a few different styles of princess seams. In this article, we will look at the classic
princess seam, which originates from the front and back waist darts and continues through
to the shoulder darts. The two dart bodice is used for to make this classic pattern.

Step 1 Trace the front and back of your two dart sloper.

Step 2 Draw a style line from the mid-shoulder to the bust point. Measure 2 up and 2
down from the bust point and mark. These markings will later become your notches for
sewing.

Step 3 Continue the style line from the mid shoulder, through the bust point, and down the
inside dart leg. Measure in 3/4 from the bust point and mark as X. Starting at the same mid
shoulder point, draw a style line through your mark and connect to outside dart leg.

Step 4 Cut and separate pattern, removing the dart excess.

Step 5 Retrace your front outside panel onto new pattern paper, making sure to mark
notches. Cut a slash line from the center of the side dart to point X created in step 3. Cut to,
but not through point X. Slide dart closed and tape.

Step 6 Shape and blend the bust curve using your pattern making rulers. You will want to
“walk” your patterns to make sure all seams are the same length.

Step 7 If more ease is needed, slash and spread from the bust point to the side seam and
separate as much as necessary. Retrace the new pattern, shape and blend new lines, walk
patterns again to ensure all seams are the same length. Generally, you will do this step after
sewing and fitting a muslin.

Step 8 Trace the back two dart bodice. Using your vary form ruler draw a princess line from
the shoulder dart to the waist dart. More than likely you will need to shift over the shoulder
dart point to be in line with the waist dart point. Be sure to cross mark both dart points, as
these will later become your notches for sewing.

Step 9 Continue the princess style lines through the inner and outer dart legs, removing
the dart excess. Cut and separate. You will want to “walk” your patterns to make sure all
seams are the same length.

Step 10 Add seam allowance to all pattern pieces. In the industry, 1/2 is generally used for
side seams and 1/4 for necklines. Also, make sure to transfer the notches and grain lines.

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Filed Under: Pattern Making

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Comments
Kalpana says
January 17, 2018 at 11:00 am

Hey, I have a question – why is the side front princess panel ‘P’ shaped? In other pattern
drafting books they don’t usually have that indentation under the bust point, so was slightly
confused as to why it was there. Wouldn’t it make sewing it more difficult too? Thanks

Reply

Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says

January 18, 2018 at 9:06 am

Hey there – there are a few different ways to make a princess seam. You can go from
the shoulder, arm hole, or side seam. With that said, the illustrations are just that –
they are illustrations and are not true to scale patterns. Sorry for any confusion.

Reply

Kalpana tapkire says

February 11, 2017 at 8:04 pm

Hi, I am interested in the detailing, n, drafting of a shirt or tunic where the shoulder height is
raised high about an3/4of an inch in the back body sloper. In that case the width of the
shoulder back may in crease than the fro t shoulder, if both the patterns are run thru at
shoulder. Can you give an explanation to how match the 2slopers in this case.
And why is it necessary to make the raised back shoulders
Thank you

Reply

Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says

February 12, 2017 at 10:27 am

Hi there,
By ‘shoulder height is raised’ do you mean a built up neckline? I will send you an e-mail.

Reply

Nakpodia faith says

February 11, 2017 at 7:37 am

Thanks to this site and efforts on putting it online. The write up has given me an idea in how
to create princess cut pattern.

Reply

Ruth Reyes-Loiacano says

February 11, 2017 at 10:48 am

Glad it helped!

Reply

Chris Mitchinson says

June 15, 2016 at 1:46 pm

My problem is a bit difficult to describe, but here goes. I have a basic toile which fits me like
a glove and I have an old dress pattern where the bodice has a princess seam from the
shoulder to the waist attached to a circular skirt. The side panels are extended slightly over
the end of the shoulder and forms a slight loose sleeve cap, there is no actual armhole
shaping as the side seam on the panels go slightly diagonally from the waist up to the
shoulder seam. The back of the pattern fits my toile, however the front four panels when
joined together are a couple of inches short under the arm at each side (therefore they
don’t meet the back and the waist is too small), there are buttons all down the centre front.
How do I increase the waist on the front without having lots of fabric falling over my
shoulder making it look more like a batwing sleeve. I do like your instructions in image form,
they are very easy to follow.

Reply

RARL1013 says
June 15, 2016 at 4:06 pm

Oh wow! Okay..it is complicated. I think I’ve got the gist of the pattern, check out this
image..is this how the pattern looks?

So, what you’re saying is that the front pieces are not wide enough to wrap your
around your front waist? Do I have that correct?

http://isntthatsew.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/dress.jpg

Reply

Chris Mitchinson says

June 15, 2016 at 6:54 pm

Lol, nearly. On the left hand side follow the line from the waist in a straight
diagonal line up to the shoulder, there is no obvious sleeve as on your drawing.
The shoulder seam is just extra long so that the extra fabric falls over the
shoulder a couple of inches, but it’s not actually a sleeve. That’s the problem, as
the left panel isn’t wide enough to wrap around my side (I am 2 sizes bigger than
the pattern – carrying extra weight on my waist and large busted) and if I just
extend this diagonal line a couple of inches sideways then a larger piece of fabric
will fall over the shoulder and possibly down to the crook in the arm, when in fact
it is just barely there.

Shoulder of side panel – no armhole as such and extra long shoulder seam
_______________ _______
\||\
\ | | \ V-neck buttoned down the front of front panel
\||\
\|||
\|||
\|||
\ _______| |_________|

The armhole looks like just a slit. The diagonal from the waist to the shoulder is
not as pronounced as in my drawing, otherwise I could have maybe widened the
bottom only. Hope you can help.

Reply

Chris Mitchinson says

June 15, 2016 at 6:58 pm

My attempt at using the keyboard for drawing hasn’t worked. Think of a 95

degree angle at the waist joining the shoulder at an 85 degree angle in a
straight line.

Reply

RARL1013 says
June 16, 2016 at 6:51 am

OK! I think I gotcha! I think you have 2 options. 1. Create the a ‘sleeve’ out
of the upper portion, by creating a seam on the outside piece. 2. Slash and
spread up to the bust point and widen the waist.

http://isntthatsew.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Capture.jpg

Reply

Chris Mitchinson says

June 16, 2016 at 8:01 am

Brilliant! Wasn’t sure where to start slashing. Excellent site – keep it

up. Thank you lots and lots …

RARL1013 says
June 16, 2016 at 4:47 pm

Awesome, let me know how it turns out!

seyi says
April 25, 2016 at 9:02 am

Thanks I really find this project helpful,keep it up

Reply

Sawinder Kaur says

June 17, 2015 at 10:08 pm

Pls tell me the standard width(in”) for blouse/top waist darts. TQ

Reply

RARL1013 says
June 19, 2015 at 8:51 am

Unfortunately, I’m afraid there is no standard width. But, what I can tell you is that on
my blocks, I use a 3 dart that folds to become a 1.5 dart. I hope that helps!

Reply

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