Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BUCHAREST “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-

written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

June - July 2011

Do Not Pass Go!

We take a trip around the
Bucharest Monopoly board

Old Town/Lipscani
In Your Pocket
A 14-page special on
Bucharest’s Old Town

N°71 - 12.00 lei

bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Contents 5

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Basics 8
Everything you wanted to know about Bucharest
and Romania, but were afraid to ask

Arrival & Transport 12

Navigating Bucharest

Culture & Events 16

The opera season is well underway again

Bucharest Monopoly 24
A trip around the Bucharest Monopoly board

Where to Stay 32
From palaces of gold to flea pits

Go straight to page 24, do not pass go, do not collect

$200 salary, and take a trip with Bucharest In Your
Pocket all the way around the Bucharest Monopoly
board.

Restaurants 44
Where to eat, and where to get food poisoning

Cafes 60
So many, we’ve given them their own chapter

Nightlife 62
Clubs, bars, pubs and the like

Sightseeing
What to see 70
Where to spend your days

Old Town 74
The heart and soul of the city

Shopping, Directory & Children 88

Everything from malls and souvenirs to
pharmacies and dentists and private schools

Maps & Street Register

Northern Bucharest 94
Flowers, playgrounds and free bicylce hire: believe it or not, Central & Southern Bucharest 96
but Bucharest’s parks are now one of the city’s biggest
Street Register & Hotel Map Index 98
attractions. Go on, Rediscover Bucharest’s Parks, on
pages 22-23.

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

6 Foreword
Maybe it’s just the fact that we’ve been living in
Bucharest for so long we’ve grown accustomed
The World In Your Pocket
to its vagaries and peccadilloes, but if you ask
Northern Estonia
us, the city has never looked better. On a warm Ireland
Russia
summer’s evening sitting on a Lipscani or city Ireland Latvia
centre terrace, spriţ in hand (made with local wine, Lithuania
of course), there are few places we would rather be.
Belarus
For all its bad press - and it still gets slated more
Netherlands
than praised in the international media - Bucharest Poland
is a modern, vibrant city we are happy to live in, all Germany Ukraine
Czech
the more so given the fact that we get to tell visitors Republic
all about the place too.
Austria
This issue, as part of our mission to get you Switzerland Slovenia Romania
to Rediscover Bucharest, we have dedicated a Croatia
major feature to bringing some of the lesser known Bosnia Serbia
Bulgaria
parts of the city to your attention, by way of a Montenegro Kosovo
throrough tour of the Bucharest Monopoly board. FYR Macedonia
Albania
For some time we have recommended taking
Greece
home a copy of the Bucharest edition as a unique
souvenir, so we thought it was about time to took
In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of
a fresh look at the stories behind the street names
late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands
on the board. You can read all about it on pages (Tilburg, with Amsterdam to follow very soon), in
24-27. Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Swit-
We also this issue take an in depth look at zerland (Zurich) and in Belarus (Minsk). This
year will also see the first non-European Pockets
Bucharest’s parks: rapidly becoming one of rolled out in South Africa and Mozambique.
the city’s best features, thanks to the fantastic We also continue to roll out iPhone apps to all
playgrounds and recreational facilities for kids of all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your
Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to
ages they offer. You will find the feature on pages find out which cities we will be covering, and to
22-23. keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like
Whatever you do with your time in Bucharest, In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/
inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.
enjoy the city. Bucharest - more than most cities - com/inyourpocket).
really is what you make of it.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3
Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8
014191 Bucuresti, Romania
tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18
fax (+4) 021 322 25 22
bucharest@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1454-5276 © IYP Romania Srl
Printed at MEGAPress SA, Bucharest
Tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09
Published six times per year, up to
20,000 copies produced each issue
Editor Craig Turp
Researcher Raluca Tanasa
Photography © Craig Turp/IYP
Romania Srl unless otherwise stated.
Cover photo View over Bucharest
towards IMGB © Dreamstime.
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Bucharest In Your Pocket is a
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Text, photos and maps copyright
IYP Romania Srl 1999-2011 unless
otherwise stated. All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form, except brief
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Editor’s note
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Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

8 Basics
Crime & Safety
If you keep your nose clean, then we have always found to be
Bucharest a safer place than many - indeed if not all - other
cities in Europe. There is almost no violent crime. However,
if you go looking for trouble by visiting rough areas, such as
Ferentari or Salaj, then the chances are you will find plenty.
Petty crime on the other hand is a major problem.
Pickpockets are ubiquitous on public transport (especially
the routes to and from the Gara de Nord), in crowded bars
and pubs and even in restaurants. Then of course there are
the city’s stray dogs to worry about.
Etiquette
In their own homes, Romanians are by and large fabulous
hosts. So much so that making friends and getting yourself
invited should be top of your list of things to do while in
the country! You had better be hungry, because the food
never stops coming, on and on, dish after dish. You must
bring something: flowers, chocolates or a bottle of good
whisky.
You will probably be offered local brandy, ţuica. It will grow
on you. Most Romanians love to chat about their country, its
Bucharest In Your Pocket
So where am I exactly?
Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of
the world which will - to those of a certain age - always
be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate
to describe Bucharest’s geographical location as south-
eastern Europe.
Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest
is in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one
of the three historic principalities which make up the
modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transyl-
vania). Romania as a nation state is relatively new: while
Moldavia and Wallachia have been united as a single
country since 1859, Romania took on its modern form
only on December 1st, 1918, when the Romanians of
Transylvania voted to join in the fun.
The official population of Bucharest is just over two
million people, but as many migrants from the rest of
the country do not bother to register as citizens of the
capital, the true number is thought to be closer to three
million.
Bucharest is close to the Danube (just 69 kilometres to
the south), which serves as the border between Romania
and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu,
linked by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the
other side of the river, whose pleasant centre is well
worth a day trip if you are at a loose end. Alas you will
need a car, as train services between Bucharest and
Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor.
Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta
and the Black Sea coast, but as the A2 motorway only
goes as far as Cernavoda, even the maddest of drivers
fail to do the trip in much under three hours. Like most
trains in Romania, the Bucharest - Constanta service is
slow and it takes four and a half hours.
To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of
Romania’s oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian
Mountains, a two hour drive away.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

politics, problems and history. Don’t be surprised if they ask you
very direct questions. In all cases, be diplomatic in response.
Left Luggage
There are left luggage facilities at Gara de Nord, but no
luggage lockers. You will find the left luggage counter
opposite the Wasteels office, a short walk from the
platforms. The charge is cursory: 4 lei per small bag per
24 hours, 7 lei for a bigger bag. Note that the office keeps
irregular hours (with staff taking breaks seemingly willy-nilly),
so always make sure there will be someone on hand to give
you back your bag when you want to pick it up.
There is no left luggage facility at either Otopeni or
Baneasa airport.
When Things Go Wrong
In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the city
code, whether calling from a landline or a mobile. You wll
be asked which service you require (Politia/Police, Ambu-
lanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/Firemen). Emergency call
centre operators should speak English or French but in our
experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you
know the name of the street you are calling from.
If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to call
your embassy. There is a list on pages 91 and 93. The
city‘s main police station is the brand new building at
(B-4) Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84.
The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the
city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8,
next to Dinamo Stadium. More details in the Health box
on page 11. There is a list of Pharmacies on page 93,
and an English speaking Dentist on page 91.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Basics 9
A Word From the Mayor
I am one of the over two million
inhabitants of Bucharest. This
is where I was born, and where
I grew up. I know both the bright
and dark sides of every nook
and cranny. I have learned
the history of each stone, and
experienced romance while
wandering in Herastrau Park
or admiring the city by night.
I have traveled a lot, but I have always come back
home with infinite joy in order to discover my Bucharest
over and over again. I am sure that there would have been
no better place in Romania to build my medical career,
with all the professional and academic opportunities
that a capital city like Bucharest can offer. Yet I under-
stood that for everything you get in this life you have to
give something back. That is why now, as the Mayor of
Bucharest, I commit myself to giving the people of this
city a place to live in, not just a place to dwell in.
Bucharest is Romania’s most important cultural, econo-
mic, financial and political centre. It generates more than 20
per cent of the country’s GDP and is inhabited by more than
10 per cent of the Romanian population. All major financial,
political and executive institutions are based here.
As one of 27 European capital, Bucharest is eager
to share its cultural heritage with the community and
the whole world. I therefore invite you to explore this
wonderful city, to discover its mystery and take its pulse:
Bucharest is always ready to surprise and impress its
guests with its eternal and motley poetry.
Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest
June - July 2011

Health
Should you fall ill, the local health service is more than
adequate, if not perfect. Hospitals do suffer from a
lack of funds, and the frequent handing over of 10 lei
notes to everyone from the receptionist to the cleaner
is recommended. Romanian doctors, while almost
universally brilliant, are dreadfully, criminally underpaid
and should be tipped heavily. You are recommended to
take out decent health insurance, however, and most of
the private medical centres listed on our website offer
good schemes for expatriates. In an emergency you
should call tel. 112 or tel. (+4) 021 9731 for an ambu-
lance. The best state emergency hospital is Spitalul de
Urgenta, C-3, Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599 23
00. If your child becomes ill, you should take him or her
to the excellent children’s emergency hospital, found
at (B-4), B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 30-32, tel. (+4) 021
212 93 64/66. A list of 24 hour pharmacies can be
found on page 93.
Local laws & Police
If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea
to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driving
license. Drinking in public (except in designated areas) leaves
you open to a fine, and note that despite appearances to the
contrary, prostitution remains illegal. If you are arrested ask
to speak to your embassy for advice.
Money
Romania’s currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100
bani. At the time of writing one leu was equal to €0.24, or
£0.19. Notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100,
50, 10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5
bani coins. The best place to get your hands on Romanian
money is at an ATM. If you really do have to change cash, then
please ensure that you do it inside a bank. Currency exchange
offices by and large charge high commision or offer poorer
rates. Credit and debit cards (MasterCard and Visa at least)
are accepted almost everywhere. American Express and
Diners Club cards are less widely accepted.
Toilets
The only decent public toilets in town are those in the Piata
Universitatii underpass (which are free) and those at Gara
de Mord (for which you have to pay, 0.50 lei). By and large
your best bet in Bucharest when you really need to go is to
find the nearest fast food outlet beginning with ‘Mc’ and
purveying yourself of their facilities.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Basics 11
Time & People
Romania is in the Eastern European Time Zone: GMT +
2 hours. When it is 12:00 in Bucharest it is 11:00 in Berlin,
10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. The population
of Romania is 21,700,000, and of Bucharest 2,100,000
(both 2007 estimates).
Taxi Tactics
Bucharest’s taxi drivers have a refreshingly liberal sense
of equal opportunities: basically, when it comes to ripping
people off, they view anyone as fair game. Locals,
foreigners, young, old, male, female: anyone who steps
in the wrong kind of taxi can expect to be well and truly
buggered. The important thing to remember when getting
into a taxi in this city is that there are two kinds: those
which are operated by a tried and trusted taxi company
(good) and independents (bad). The problem is spotting
the difference. By and large, trustworthy taxis are easy to
spot as they are emblazoned with the name and phone
number of the company they are associated with. To
counter this, the independents have also started to
plaster phone numbers (often 9403) over their cars,
alongside copy-cat logos that look cunningly like those
of decent taxi companies. The best way to avoid being
ripped off however is to pay careful attention to the
tariffs, displayed on the driver and passenger door of all
taxis. There should just now be one single tarif displayed,
and anything higher than 1.99 lei per kilometre should
start alarm bells ringing. Be extra careful around
Gara de Nord, Baneasa Airport, Bucuresti Mall, Piata
Universitatii, Piata Unirii. To avoid any problems, call
one of the taxi companies listed below. If you are in a
hotel or restaurant, ask your concierge or waiter/waitress
to call a taxi for you.
If you feel something is a bit suspect in any taxi,
note down the driver’s number and call his company to
report him.
Some trusted taxi companies:
Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Confort
021 9455, Cristaxi 021 9461, Golden Blitz 021 9415,
Leone 021 9425, Mavi 021 9450 Meridian 021 9444,
Mondial 021 9423, Speed Taxi 021 9477, Taxi As 021
9435, Taxi Total 021 9424. Most of these companies
have at least one operator who speaks English.
June - July 2011
12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Arriving in Bucharest
By Air
Bucharest has two international airports, Otopeni Henri
Coanda, and Baneasa Aurel Vlaicu.
Arriving at Otopeni After getting off the plane and
easing your way through passport control, you’ll find your-
self in the baggage reclaim area. Ignore all of the services
on offer here, be it currency exchange or limousines to
the city centre. Past customs is the arrivals area, where
there are a couple of ATMs, a small cafe, and - to the
right, towards the departures terminal - car hire desks.
You will see a number of signs telling you about trains to
Gara de Nord: ignore them. You first have to take a bus
to the airport’s train station, and the trains themselves
run irregularly. The bus or a taxi are better bets.
Outside the terminal you will find a line up of shiny,
expensive but generally honest taxis. Their cabs will
display an Airport sign. A ride to the city centre with one
of these smiling Charlies will set you back around 130 lei
(€32). So instead, walk through to departures (turn right
as you exit baggage claim) and take a regular Bucharest
taxi as it drops somebody off. You will pay around 45 lei
for a trip into town. There is a regular stream of these
and you should never have to wait too long. You can also
get to town by taking bus 783, which stops underneath
the arrivals hall, in front of the internal arrivals terminal.
It leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei,
Piata Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes
from around 05:20 until 23:50. Tickets costing 7 lei (valid
for two trips) need to be purchased before boarding from
the little booth which you’ll find on your right hand side
as you exit the airport building. Another bus, 780, runs
direct from Otopeni to Gara de Nord via Baneasa.
Arriving at Baneasa Baneasa is much closer to
the city centre than Otopeni. There is an ATM in arrivals,
and avoid the currency exchange booth: rates are not
the best. Bus routes 131 and 335 stop outside, both
terminating at Piata Romana. A standard RATB ticket
costing 1.30 lei must be bought before boarding: there
is a kiosk next to the bus stop. Express bus 780 runs
direct from Baneasa to Gara de Nord, and tickets cost
3.50 lei. Taxis wait outside, but make sure you take one
belonging to a trusted company (see Taxis, page 11).
The fare to town should be no more than 35 lei.
By Train
Arriving at Gara de Nord If you arrive by train you will
arrive at Gara de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual col-
lection of gypsies, tramps and thieves to contend with.
There are ATMs, shops, kiosks and a McDonalds. To
get to town take an honest taxi from outside (beware
sharks) or take the metro: you are just two stops away
from Piata Victoriei. To get to either of the airports from
Gara de Nord, take bus 780.
€1 = 4.13 lei, £1 = 4.69 lei
US$ = 2.90 lei
(As of June 1, 2011)
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Public transport
Even though the Bucharest public transport network is cheap,
extensive and reliable, taking a bus, trolleybus or tram can be
a headache due to the amount of people that cram on to the
blasted things.
Tickets
Paper tickets are now a thing of the past, so to use a bus,
trolleybus or tram you will need to buy a Multiplu Card
before climbing aboard, validating it in one of the orange
devices located all over the vehicle (watch how others do it
first). The cards can be bought from the little kiosks next to
major stops, and can be loaded with anything from two to ten
journeys (each journey costs 1.30 lei). You can also purchase
a day-ticket valid on all the city‘s buses, trolleybuses and
trams. It costs 8 lei.
If you are going to be staying a while in Bucharest and
plan on using public transport a lot, invest in an Activ Card, a
pre-paid electronic card. A bit like a London Transport Oyster
card, you can buy Activ cards at most RATB kiosks and load
them up with as much credit as you like, recharging them as
needed. (The Multiplu card cannot be reloaded with credit).
The Activ card itself is free, but on purchase you need to
load it with a minimum 25 lei. Unlike the Multiplu cards, Activ
Cards can be used on the metro.
Ticket inspectors (controlor) are ubiquitous, and if you are
caught without a ticket you’ll pay a fine of 50 lei. Pickpockets
are rife on all forms of public transport in Bucharest. On all
forms of public transport children under the age of seven
travel free. After that age they need a full-price ticket.
Buses & Trolleybuses
Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by
bus or trolleybus, and most main roads in the city centre
benefit from three or four different routes. Most buses are
overcrowded, however, and travelling on them is a less than
pleasant experience. Note that the bus out to the airport (N°
783) requires a special ticket (costing 7 lei and valid for two
journeys), which has to be bought in advance.
Trams
A blessing to some and a curse to others, Bucharest’s trams
skirt the city centre, often blocking traffic as they trundle along
narrow roads. Unless you are visiting somewhere outside of
the city centre it is unlikely that you will use a tram.
Metro
Bucharest’s metro was primarily built to ship workers from
the vast housing estates of Titan, Berceni and Militari out
to the huge industrial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and
Industriilor. That’s all very well if you are resident of Titan
working at IMGB, but useless to almost everybody else. The city
centre is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south
M2 line, from Pipera to IMGB, which passes through Piatas
Victoriei, Romana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the Gara de
Nord, is likely to be of any use to visitors. Tickets are almost as
cheap as for the trams and busses: they cost either 3 lei (valid
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
14 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Train Schedule
From Bucharest To Bucharest
Dep Arr.
IC 13:00 01:15 ARAD IC 10:35 22:32
R 08:40 12:25 BRASOV R 10:13 13:38
A 10:30 14:29 BRASOV R 12:41 15:48
IC 13:00 16:33 BRASOV R 14:25 18:06
R 14:15 17:35 BRASOV IC 19:05 22:32
R 15:00 18:39 BRASOV A 19:56 23:22
IC 13:00 22:51 CLUJ-NAPOCA IC 12:39 22:32
R 08:55 11:45 CONSTANTA R 16:40 19:32
IC 05:45 08:54 CRAIOVA IC 11:38 14:43
IC 15:45 18:56 CRAIOVA R 16:15 19:23
IC 15:40 19:44 GALATI IC 05:00 09:09
IC 06:00 12:51 IASI IC 05:10 12:07
IC 16:55 23:50 IASI IC 16:28 23:28
IC 13:00 01:52 ORADEA IC 09:40 22:32
A 18:25 10:36 SATU MARE A 16:05 07:37
R 15:00 21:53 SIBIU R 07:20 13:38
A 06:08 12:34 SIGHISOARA IC 16:35 22:32
IC 13:00 22:56 TARGU MURES IC 12:31 22:32
IC 05:45 14:15 TIMISOARA IC 06:00 14:43
IC 15:45 00:29 TIMISOARA R 13:48 22:32
Schedule verified on May 31st, 2011. The full Romanian
railway timetable is online at www.infofer.ro.

for two trips; doua calatorii) or 9 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii)
and can be bought from any metro station. You can also buy
tickets valid for one day (abonament de o zi), costing 5.50 lei.
For more on the Bucharest metro see the feature online at
bucharest.inyourpocket.com.

Trains CFR agency we list opposite or buy online at www.cfr.ro/

Given that Romania‘s roads are so bad, it‘s comforting to know
that the country‘s railways are equally crap. Take the Bucharest
- Brasov route, of 167km, a journey which should take just over
an hour. It takes a whopping three hours if you are lucky, much
longer if you are not. And usually you are not. In fact, so bad are
things on the railways these days that average speeds are up
to 30 per cent slower than in 1989.Should you have to take a
train, always try to get an Inter City or a Rapid, as they are
the fastest and usually have the most modern rolling stock. To
be avoided are Acelerat and Personal trains, which are slow
and use much older rolling stock. Prices on all types of train
are relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An Inter City adult
single from Bucharest to Brasov costs 66.50 lei.
Bucharest is well linked to Budapest by train (there
are four per day) but poorly to Belgrade, Sofia, Chisinau
and Kyiv. To buy train tickets, visit either the station, the
calatori. Your best bet for the purchase of international
tickets is Wasteels at the station. In all cases, do not leave
buying tickets to the last minute: long queues could mean
you miss your train. Tickets cannot be purchased on the
train, though in the worst case scenario you can try bribing
the guard. Many locals do this as a matter of course.
Agentia de Voiaj SNCFR B-5, Str. Domnita Anastasia
10-14, tel. (+4) 021 313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. CFR’s ad-
vance booking office. Reservations for all kinds of trains, from
acelerats to sleepers, up to one-hour before the train departs.
Q Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Wasteels A-4, Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 03
70/021 300 27 30, www.triptkts.ro. Advance reserva-
tions for all types of trains, national and international. Helpful
staff, western currencies accepted. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Tourist Information
Info Tourist Point A-4, Inside Gara de Nord, tel.
(+4) 0371 15 50 63, www.infotourist.ro. Bucharest
now has two Tourist Information Offices: one at Gara de
Nord and one at Piata Universitate. Both are staffed
by friendly young locals ready to help as best they can.
They are stocked with leaflets, maps, brochures etc.
and of course: Bucharest In Your Pocket. Q Open
09:00-21:00. Also at Piata Universitatii Underpass, Open
09:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00, Closed Sun.
Car rental
AAA Autorent Hertz
B-6, Bd. Natiunile Unite 3, bl. 109, Ground Floor, tel.
(+4) 021 335 75 33, fax 021 335 75 32, office@hertz.
com.ro, www.hertz.com.ro. Also at Henri Coanda Airport,
tel. (+4) 021 201 49 54, fax (+4) 021 021 201 49 55,
Robuc51@hertz.com.ro, Open 08:00-20:00; JW Marriott
Grand Hotel, tel. (+4) 021 403 29 56, fax (+4) 021 021 403
29 57, Robuc63@hertz.com.ro, Open 08:00-20:00; Athenee
Palace Hilton, tel./fax 021 303 37 44, robuc64@hertz.com.
ro, Open 08:30-17:30, Closed Sat, Sun; Crowne Plaza, tel.
(+4) 021 335 75 33.
Avis B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 9876/(+4)
021 210 43 44, fax (+4) 021 210 69 12, reservations@
avis.ro, www.avis.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat,
Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental, tel. (+4) 021 314 18 37,
Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri Coanda International Airport, tel.
(+4) 021 204 19 57, Open 07:00 - 02:00; Baneasa Airport,
tel. (+4) 021 230 24 82, Open 10:00-22:00.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
15
Bavaria Rent Headoffice: Str. Horia, Closca si Crisan
17, Ilfov, tel. (+4) 0730 33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22,
fax (+4) 031 802 22 28, office@bavariarent.ro, www.
bavariarent.ro. Also at Baneasa International Airport, tel.
(+4) 021 200 62 63, Open 09:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-15:0.
Closed Sat; and Otopeni Airport, tel. (+4) 021 201 45 34,
(+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00-02:00, Sat 08:00-20:00.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Budget B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28
67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, reservations@budgetro.
ro, www.budgetro.ro. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7
(Howard Johnson Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89, Open
09:00-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun and Henri Coanda International
Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 16 67, Open 08:00-20:00. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cars4Rent Str. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter),
tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0730 09 39 85, fax
(+4) 021 352 87 16, office@cars4rent.ro, www.
cars4rent.ro. Good car rental from the people behind
the Hotel Charter, Q Open 24 hrs.
Compact Rent-a-Car A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 1, bl A7,
sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. 0744 63 82 92/021 312 98 57,
fax 021 312 99 82, office@compact-rentacar.ro, www.
compact-rentacar.ro.
Europcar
D-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 17 97, (+4)
0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96, reservations@
europcar.com.ro, www.europcar.com.ro. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4) 0374 00 40 57 and
Baneasa Airport tel. (+4) 021 232 01 39. Service also avail-
able in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara.
Sixt New Kopel Calea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel. (+4)
021 9400, reservation@sixt.ro, www.sixt.ro.
June - July 2011
16 CULTURE & Events
Rock & Pop Concerts
04.06 Saturday Suede
Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul Carol). They invented
Britpop, made a couple of brilliant albums and then disap-
peared. Now reformed (though this is not the original Bernie
Butler line-up) we are seriously looking forward to this one.
Q Concert starts 19:00. Tickets 100-150 lei until 17.04;
130-180 lei (18.04 - 4.06) from www.eventim.ro, Humanitas,
Carturesti.

05.06 Sunday Opeth & Katatonia

Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul Carol). Both Opeth and
Katatonia are Swedish heavy metal bands, both hailing from
Stockholm, and both formed in 1990. Q Concert starts
18:30. Tickets 130-170 lei from www.eventim.ro.

06.06 Monday Sting

B-6, Piata Constitutiei. Expected to be performing for real
this time (as in all the old Sting hits you would want to hear) as
opposed to his last Bucharest visit, a bizarre acoustic affair
that left many of those who paid to see it a little confused.
Q Tickets 135-395 lei from www.myticket.ro.

08.06 Wednesday British Sea Power

A-5, Calea Plevnei 61 (The Silver Church). British Sea
Power are an indie rock band based in Brighton, England,
although three of the band come originally from Kendal in
Cumbria. Their style ranges from the sweeping, often epic,
guitar pop sound to the visceral and angular. Critics have
likened their sound to a variety of groups, from The Cure and
Joy Division to the Pixies and Arcade Fire.The band are famed
for their live performances. Q Concert starts 21:00. Tickets
50 lei from www.eventim.ro.

09.06 Thursday Scorpions

Str. Barbu Vacarescu 164 (Zone Arena). There’s no wind
of change in the world that can explain the incredible ticket
prices being charged to watch a group of men in their sixties
give it their all. Still, takes all sorts. Q Concert starts 20:00.
Tickets190-350 lei from www.myticket.ro.

10.06 Friday Hooverphonic

C-2, Str. Glodeni 1 (Fratelli Studios). Hooverphonic are a
Belgian rock/pop group, formed in 1995. Though early on
categorized as a trip hop group, they quickly expanded their
sound to the point where they could no longer be described as
a lone genre, but rather encompass alternative, electronica,
electropop, rock, and mixture of others. The band originally
called themselves Hoover, but later changed their name to
Hooverphonic after discovering other groups were already
using the Hoover name and to avoid any legal issues with the
vacuum cleaner company. Q Concert starts 23:00. Tickets
110-180 lei from www.eventim.ro.

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Culture & Events 17

Venues & Tickets

Arenele Romane Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul
Carol).
Ateneul Român C-5, Str. Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021
315 68 75, www.fge.org.ro.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00,
Sat 16:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00, 16:00-19:00.
Closed Mon.
Casa de Cultura a Studentilor Preoteasa A-5,
Calea Plevnei 61, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 42, www.
ccs.ro.
Diverta E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59 (Bucuresti Mall),
www.diverta.net. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Jet Set Events Hall B-6, B-dul Libertatii 1, tel. (+4)
0728 44 64 16, www.jtsevents.ro.
Magazin Muzica B-4, Calea Victoriei 41-43, tel.
(+4) 021 314 56 08.
National Theatre (Teatrul National) C-5, B-dul
Nicolae Bălcescu 2, tel. (+4) 021 314 71 71, www.
tnb.ro. Q Box office Open Mon 10:00-16:00, Tue-Sun
10:00-19:00.
Romanian National Opera (Opera Nationala
Romana) A-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, tel. (+4)
021 314 69 80. Q Box office open 09:00-13:00,
15:00-19:00.
Sala Palatului B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, tel.
(+4) 021 315 73 72. Q Box office open Tue-Fri 10:00-
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sala Polivalenta B-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc Tinere-
tului), tel. (+4) 031 425 78 01.
Sala Radio B-5, Str. Berthelot 60-64, tel. (+4) 021
314 77 70/(+4) 021 303 12 97, www.srr.ro.

Smoking or non-smoking?
In May, flying in the face of what the rest of the civilised
world is up to, Romania actually softened its existing
anti-smoking legislation. In fact, to all intents and
purposes, there will soon be no more anti-smoking rules
in Romania. This really is The Smoking Section of
Europe. What happened in May is that a parliamentary
committee tasked with finalising the wording of tough
new anti-smoking legislation threw the law out of
the window and came up with something completely
different. Kind of.
You see, while smoking will – as planned – now be
theoretically outlawed in all public spaces (that’s
the bit which they will send to the EU), the owners of
those public spaces will now be able to override the law
and decide for themselves if a place is to be designated
smoking or non-smoking. If a place decides to
designate itself as a smoking venue (and let’s face it,
they almost all will) under the new law it will not even
have to have a non-smoking section.
As such, in our listings we have only included a
non-smoking symbol where a venue is completely
non-smoking. (There aren’t many). Otherwise, assume
that venues will allow smoking almost anywhere. While
most will - for now - retain at least a token non-smoking
section, this can often be just one table in a corner
somewhere.

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

18 Culture & Events
12.06 Sunday Al Bano
B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului), tel. (+4)
021 315 73 72. An Italian crooner of the old school, big in
San Remo. Will be joined by local chanteuse Paula Seling. Q
Concert starts 20:00. Tickets 50-300 lei from www.bilete.ro.
14.06 Tuesday Alice Cooper
Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Arenele Romane). And you
thought he’d long retired! No way, he’s alive and well and
playing gigs in Bucharest. Just hope it doesn’t rain: the venue
is open air. Q Concert starts 18:30. Tickets 120-160 lei from
www.eventim.ro.
14.06 Tuesday Black Tape for a Blue Girl
C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4 (Kulturhaus). Black Tape for a Blue Girl
is an American darkwave band formed in 1986 by Projekt Re-
cords’ founder Sam Rosenthal. Their music takes on elements
of dark cabaret, darkwave, ethereal, ambient and neoclassical
music. Director David Lynch, former pornographic actress
Sasha Grey and writer Poppy Z. Brite are some of their more
well-known fans. Expect the unexpected. Q Concert starts
21:00. Tickets 30 lei from www.eventim.ro.
15.06 Wednesday My Dream
B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului). China Dis-
abled People’s Performing Art Troupe (CDPPAT). Traditional
Chinese music, opera, dance, acrobatics. Q Performances
start 20:00. Tickets 40-170 lei from www.eventim.ro.
16.06 Thursday Ali Campbell
B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28 (Sala Palatului), tel. (+4)
021 315 73 72. The legendary voice of UB40 visits Bucha-
rest for what we think is the first time. Should be a decent
night. Q Concert starts 20:00. Tickets 70-220 lei from
www.eventim.ro.
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Swimming Pools & Health Clubs
Daimon Sport Club D-8, Parcul Tineretului (Oppo-
site Sala Polivalenta), MTineretului, tel. (+4) 021
330 50 71, www.daimonsportclub.ro. Superb tennis
and fitness club in Tineretului Park, now with a great - and
we mean great - outdoor and indoor swimming pools.
There are plenty of clay tennis courts, two of which are
covered, and all of which have floodlights. There are also
two artificial football pitches (both floodlit) and a well-
equipped gym.QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. The swimming
pool costs 40 lei per person, children under twelve 25
lei. Sauna included.
Floreasca B-2, Str. Popa Marin 2, tel. (+4) 021
230 07 85. Great place to have the kids learn how to
swim, coaches are good and patient and prices are very
reasonable. The pool has seen better days but it is clean
and often not all that crowded. Q Open 06:00 - 07:00,
20:30 - 22:00; Sat 06:00 - 07:00, 19:30 - 22:00, Sun
06:00 - 08:00, 16:00 -20:00. Subscription 250 lei 12
visits per month.
Hilton Health Club (Hilton Health Club) C-5, Str.
Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021
303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21, healthclub.bu-
charest@hilton.com. Indoor pool, sauna, weight room,
and a host of top facilities. Call for membership prices.
QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
Intercontinental C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 4, tel.
(+4) 021 310 20 20. Probably the smallest swimming
pool in Romania on top of what for years was the tallest
building (22 floors). Views are great, and when it gets really
steamy you can go and sunbathe on the balcony. Q Open
06:00 - 22:00. Adult day entrance 85 lei, children 35 lei;
Under fives free. Call membership prices.
Water Park Calea Bucurestilor 255A, tel. (+4)
0731 11 11 31, www.waterpark.ro. Large open-air
water park with plenty of slides and fun pools. The bad
news is that it is opposite the airport, about 20 meters
directly underneath the flight path of every plane landing
at Otopeni. So yes, it can be noisy. Entrance is at the
rear of the Confort hotel. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Adults
Mon-Fri 30.00 lei , Sat, Sun 50.00 lei. Children Mon-Fri
15 lei, Sat, Sun 25 lei. Note: Prices shown above are
for 2010: this year’s prices were unavailable as we
went to press.
World Class Health Academy B-6, Calea 13
Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott), tel. (+4) 021 403 09
00, fax (+4) 021 403 09 07, www.worldclass.ro.
Massive fitness centres all over the city with a gym, pool
(the largest in the city, we think, the one at the Centre
Ville), squash courts and aerobics facilities. Call for details
of special membership packages. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Also at (B-5) Calea Victoriei 63-81
(Centre Ville Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 313 11 04; Jolie Ville Gal-
leria (Pipera) Str. Erou Iancu Nicolae 103 bis, tel. (+4) 021
269 01 60; Calea Dudesti 188 (InCity Residences), tel.
(+4) 031 432 86 00; B-dul Timisoara 26 (Plaza Romania),
tel. (+4) 021 318 36 81.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

18.06 Saturday
The Mission: Tiesto’s Club Life
Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul Carol), tel. (+4) 0722
39 92 28. Bucharest’s biggest outdoor rave of the summer,
headlined by Tiesto. Q Concert starts 22:00. Tickets 50-100
lei from www.bilete.ro.
25.06 Saturday Lake of Tears
Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Arenele Romane). Lake of
Tears is a Swedish band, generally considered to play gothic
metal and doom metal. However, their sound has evolved
considerably over the course of their career, expanding to
include psychedelic rock and progressive metal. The band
broke up in 2000 amid creative differences, but reunited in late
2003, releasing the acclaimed album Black Brick Road. They
released their seventh studio album, Moons and Mushrooms,
in April 2007. Q Concert starts 20:00. Tickets 80-120 lei
from www.myticket.ro.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events 19
Adventure Park
Parc Aventura Cartier Noua, Zona lac Noua, Brasov,
tel. (+4) 0755 08 55 55, www.parc-aventura.ro. Set
over two and a half acres of forest on the outskirts of Bra-
sov, this place is the answer to your ‘what shall we do with
the kids today’ prayers. There are trees to climb, daredevil
swings and slides, tunnels and assault courses. In all there
are more than 100 activities and eight different trails (one
of which welcomes children as young as four). The turn-off
is just before Metro if you are arriving from Bucharest. Q
Open 10:00-21:00. Admission (3hrs) adults 37 lei, students
32 lei, children 8-11 27 lei, children 4-7 21 lei.
26.06 Sunday Gifts from Enola
C-5, Str. Academiei 19 (Control Club), tel. (+4) 0733
92 78 61, www.control-club.ro. Gifts From Enola is a four-
piece instrumental post-rock band from Harrisonburg, Virginia.
Their music is characterized with a strong riff-orientated
guitar sound along with the soft-loud approach prevalent
in some post-rock. Q Concert starts 21:00. Tickets from
Control Club.
30.06 Thursday Malevolent Creation
B-7, Str. 11 Iunie 50 (Club Fabrica). Malevolent Creation is
a death metal band originally hailing from Buffalo, New York.
Moving to Florida in 1987, they became a part of the emergent
local death metal scene, landing a deal with Roadrunner Re-
cords. Their debut album, The Ten Commandments, became
something of a landmark in the death metal underground. Q
Tickets 40-50 lei from www.biletoo.ro.
June - July 2011
20 Culture & Events

Carol I: The First King of Romania IRB Nations Cup 2011

Few visitors to Bucharest will leave without seeing the
enormous horseback statue of Carol I - the first king
of modern Romania - which appeared in front of the
University Library in (B/C-5) Piata Revolutiei at the end of
last year. (Originally planned to be unveiled on December
1st - Romania’s National Day - the official ceremony had to
be delayed a week after the plinth was daubed in graffiti
attacking Bucharest’s Mayor, Sorin Oprescu). Looking
directly at the former Royal Palace (now the National Art
Museum, see page 70), the statue is one of the largest
in the city and unquestionably the most prominently
positioned. But who was this Carol chap?
Born Karl Eitel Friedrich Zephyrinus Ludwig of
Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen in Sigmaringen in southern
Germany in 1839, Karl was an officer in the Prussian army
Top quality (well, almost) rugby returns to Bucharest in
until being invited by Romanian politician Ion Brătianu in
June in the form of the IRB Nations Cup. The competi-
1866 to become the nascent country’s king. Romania’s tion takes on extra significance this year with four of the
own royal, the authoritarian Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza, participating teams using the tournament as a platform to
had been exiled after falling out with the country’s politi- fine-tune preparations ahead of Rugby World Cup 2011:
cians and most powerful families earlier in 1866. Scour- Romania, Namibia, Georgia and Argentina. Games will
ing Europe for a suitable (non-Romanian) replacement, be played as triple-headers on three seperate evenings at
Brătianu sought the advice of Napoleon III, a relative the National Rugby Stadium on (B-2) B-dul Marasti.
by marriage of the Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen family. It
was - allegedly - on Napoleon III’s recommendation that Round 1: Friday, June 10
the young Karl was approached. Though reluctant, Karl 17:00 - Romania v Namibia
19:00 - Georgia v South African Kings
was encouraged by his family to accept the offer, and 21:00 - Argentina Jaguars v Portugal
Bratianu returned to Romania to make preparations.
Karl’s trip to Romania the next month was as bizarre Round 2: Wednesday, June 15
as his somewhat random selection as the country’s king. 17:00 - Georgia v Argentina Jaguars
Due to ongoing conflict between Prussia and the Austrian 19:00 - Romania v South African Kings
Empire, Karl travelled incognito by railroad from Düs- 21:00 - Portugal v Namibia
seldorf to Budapest, under the name of Karl Hettingen.
From Budapest he travelled by carriage, as there was Round 3: Sunday, June 19
no railroad to Romania. As he walked across the border 17:00 - Portugal v South African Kings
onto Romanian soil, he was met by Brătianu, who bowed 19:00 - Georgia v Namibia
21:00 - Romania v Argentina Jaguars
before him and asked Karl to join him in a carriage.
On 10 May 1866, Karl entered Bucharest. The news
of his arrival had been transmitted through telegraph and 01.07 Friday - 03.07 Sunday
he was welcomed by a huge crowd eager to see the new Rock the City
ruler. In Băneasa he was given the key to the city. That B-dul Marasti 65-67 (Romexpo). A three day festival of
day, rain fell, ending a long period of drought – a favour- music. Acts appearing include Prodigy, Mike and the Mechan-
able sign. As he was crowned, Karl swore ‘to guard the ics, Therapy, Papa Roach, Whitesnake and Judas Priest. Q
laws of Romania, to maintain its rights and the integrity Concerts start at 16:00 on day one and at 15:00 on days two
and three. Tickets 125-185 lei/day, three day passes cost
of its territory.’ Not yet able to speak Romanian, he took
230-280 lei and are available from www.eventim.ro.
the oath in French, but adopted the Romanian version of
his name, Carol.
In his 48 years on the throne, Carol can be considered 10.07 Sunday Jon Bon Jovi
to have done rather well. He greatly assisted the cause of B-6, Piata Constitutiei. Touted as the biggest gig of the year,
and let’s face it, not without reason. Bon Jovi has always had
Romanian independence from the Ottoman Empire - which
a big following in Romania, and even the outrageous ticket
came in 1878 - raised the country’s prestige (not least prices will not put his fans off coming. Q Concert starts
at the 1906 Grand Exhibition, held in the Bucharest park 15:00. Tickets 159.80-479.30 lei from www.eventim.ro.
which now carries his name), and - in the main - allowed
politicians to run the economy without interference. He
never forgot he was German, however, and his pet project,
the Peles Castle, Sinaia, was quite deliberately built in
German style, as a reminder of the king’s origin. Carol’s
German roots also caused much tension at the outbreak
of World War I: his subjects were by and large sympathetic
to the French. As a result, Romania kept out of the war
until Carol died, in 1916.

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

22 BUCHAREST’S PARKS & GARDENS
Bucharest is blessed with some fantastic parks and public
gardens. Indeed, so much has been invested in them in
recent years (especially in playgrounds for kids and recre-
ational facilities) that they are quickly becoming one of the
city’s biggest attractions.
Botanical Gardens (Grădina Botanică) Sos. Cotro-
ceni 32, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39, www.gradina-botanica.
ro. Bucharest’s Botanical Gardens were founded in 1860
with the significant financial backing of Prince Alexandru Ioan
Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent Romanian state.
Completed in 1866 to the designs and instructions of Ulrich
Hoffmann, they were originally in the grounds of the Cotro-
ceni Monastery, moving to their present location in 1884.
The garden, administratively part of Bucharest University’s
Botanical Institute, today extends over an area of more than
17 hectares, and hosts more than 10,000 species of plants,
approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive
glasshouses. Of particular note are the exotic flowers (more
than 1000 are on display) and the bizarre Symphytum ot-
tomanum, a plant which can appear to vanish without trace
only to reappear up to 50 metres away. and B-dul Schitu Măgureanu. The most central of the
Many locals like to take advantage of the bargain entrance
fee and use the exterior of the gardens as a park, and thus the
place can often be far more full with courting couples than with
lovers of more floral delights. Whatever your reasons for going,
it's a terrific place to spend an afternoon.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.00 lei.
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Carol Park (Parcul Carol I/Parcul Libertăţii) C-7,
Calea Serban Vodă, MEroii Revolutiei. So close to the city
centre yet so seldom frequented as to be almost forgotten,
this large park was laid out by the city’s authorities from
1900-6, and designed by the French landscape artist Eduard
Redont. It is today dominated by the massive Monument to
the Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism (it
stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until 1990
housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe Gheo-
rghiu-Dej and Petre Groza (it is today empty). The park offers
some pleasant walks along tree-lined paths, and good view of
central Bucharest from the monument. The open-air Arenele
Romane in the west of the park, next to the Observatory of
Bucharest University’s Astronomy Department are a popular
venue for concerts. A year or so ago the very existence of
the park was threatened by the Romanian Orthodox Church,
which wanted to build a cathedral on the site. Vehement local
protests halted the project, however.
Cismigiu Gardens (Grădina Cismigiu) B-5, Between
B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vodă
city’s public gardens, Cismigiu is a haven of lawns, trees,
flowers and lakes.
Often mistakenly referred to as a park, Cismigiu is actually
a large garden, first designed and laid out in 1845 by the
German landscape architect Carl Meyer, but not completed
until 1860. More than 30,000 trees and plants were brought
in from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were
fetched from the botanical gardens in Vienna.
Highlights of the 17 hectare garden include the Roman
Garden, laid in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts
of Romania’s most famous writers, the lake, which can be
explored by rowing boat in or skated upon during the winter,
and Ion Jalea’s French Memorial in Carrara marble, which com-
memorates those French troops killed on Romanian territory
during the Great War.
Herăstrău Park B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32. Large park in the
north of the city, surrounded by the finest residential districts
Bucharest has to offer.
The most popular of Bucharest’s parks it extends for 187
hectares from the Arcul de Triumf to the Baneasa bridge, and
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 BUCHAREST’s PARKS & GARDENS
is centered on the lake with which it shares its name.
Home to numerous attractions, including children’s play-
grounds, a rather old fashioned fairground, an open-air the-
atre, gardens, promenades and the central lake (which offers
boat trips during the summer), the main entrance, recently
tidied up and beautified, is from Piata Charles de Gaulle.
You can rent bikes from La Pedale, close to the entrance.
Rental is free but limited to two hours. You will need ID.
Tineretului Park (Parcul Copiilor) B-dul Tineretului,
MTineretului. Tineretului - one stop south of the city centre
on the metro - is great. Divided into two parts, the main
section (closest to Tineretului metro) offers a few rides for
kids, trampolines and dodgems, as well as some fantastic
playgrounds (such as that pictured below) and plenty of tree-
lined avenues great for summer afternoon walks.
In the middle of the park is the Sala Polivalenta - a popular
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
23
venue for concerts, exhibitions and big indoor sporting events
- set above a large artificial lake on the shore of which is a
great terrace, Cafeneaua Actorilor de Vara, which serves
some of the best mici in the city.
Up by Sala Polivalenta you will also find the entrance to
Oraselul Copiilor, a very old fashioned children’s funfair,
complete with the most decrepit and life-threatening roller
coaster known to man.
The best part of Tineretului however is Parcul Vacaresti /
Parcul Copiilor, on the corner of B-dul Tineretului and Calea
Vacaresti. Vast amounts of money have been spent on this
part of the park, and as such you will find the best and biggest
children’s playgrounds in the city here. There is also an old
steam engine for kids to clamber on, a go-kart track, tennis
courts, football pitches and even fitness equipment.
Titan/Alexandru Ion Cuza Park Str. Liviu Rebreanu,
MTitan. The twin Titan and Alexandru Ioan Cuza parks,
in the unsexy yet perfectly safe neighbourhood of Titan,
have been given much love of late and are showing the ben-
efit of millions of euros of investment. Whole terraces have
been landscaped, lawns laid, playgrounds built and sports
pitches placed at every turn. Look out too for the replica
Maramures church on the southern side of the park, on
Str. Liviu Rebreanu.
A heavy presence of security guards throughout the park
(day and night) makes everyone feel safe and ensure that
nothing is spoilt. Indeed, if you were on holiday elsewhere
you’d say to yourself “we will never have this kind of park in
Bucharest.” Well, we have.
There are plenty of kiosks serving refreshments, as well
as ice cream stands. On weekend evenings there is usually
something going at the main bandstand: either a band or
children’s entertainers.
June - July 2011
24 BUCHARESt Monopoly
While the very idea of free parking, water boards or paying
income tax may be alien to many Romanians, the value of
property is not. As such, Monopoly has been played in
Romania for years (long before the fall of the communist
regime), often on moody versions of the game made in a
dark factory somewhere far from the eyes of intellectual
property lawyers.
Though a legal, licensed Romanian version has been around
since 1999, it was produced in few numbers and finding a
copy could often be a real pain in the community chest:
finding the US version was often much easier. Now, however,
the Romanian version is ubiquitous, and can be picked up for
around 120.00 lei in Auchan, Carrefour, Cora and Diverta
Music & Film, amongst other places.
We have no idea who devised the Romanian board, though
aficionados will be pleased to know that all of the quirks of the
original remain: the choice of streets and stations is a little
arbitrary; some streets are not, in fact, streets; prices are
laughably low; the rules are incomprehensible and you can
still win money by coming second in a beauty contest.
A Trip Around the Bucharest Board
Calea Rahova is famous for its multi-coloured blocks, an
idea stolen from Tirana, where the former mayor Edi Rama -
whose idea it was to paint the grey blocks - is an artist. The
mayor of Bucharest’s Sector 5, however, Marean Vanghelie,
is far from being an artist (though he is certainly colourful),
and Calea Rahova, while impressive from afar, is no Tirana.
What’s more, behind the painted facades hides a squalor you
really do not expect to find in the European Union. On the face
of it, the $12 Monopoly ground rent seems a little steep.
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Calea Giulesti is home to Stadion Giulesti, home to Rapid
Bucharest, ugly sister of Bucharest football (Steaua and
Dinamo remain the capital’s best supported sides). Founded
by railway workers (the main line into Gara de Nord passes
within a few metres of the stadium) the team has won the
Romanian championship just three times, in 1967, 1999 and
in 2003. Fans of bizarre buildings might like to know that the
prototype-looking skyscraper with few – if any – windows
next to the stadium (and visible from every train coming and
going from the station) is in fact a now derelict elevator test-
shaft. It was built in the 1970s by Ascensor SA, the national
lift company, which hoped to corner the European market in
high-speed lifts for tall buildings. It didn’t.
The first train station on the Bucharest board is Gara
Progresu, a bleak outpost of the Romanian railways which
these days sees little, if any traffic: the Romanian train
timetable @ cfr.ro/mersultrenurilor in fact lists no trains as
scheduled to stop here for the foreseeable future.
Balta Alba translates as White Pond, and is named for
the lake in the middle of Titan/IOR park, one of the largest
and best in the city. It has been completely renovated and
re-landscaped at great cost over the past few years and is
a wonderful place to spend time.
Unfairly regarded as the Bucharest hood, B-dul Pan-
telimon is a working class area named for the Orthodox St.
Pantelimon the Healer, and is the gateway to the less-visited
sights east of the city, including Cernica, a 19th-century
monastery nine kilometres from the capital. Its church fea-
tures frescoes painted by the little-known maestro George
Frujinescu.
Berceni is a less than salubrious district of the capital,
which we would suggest is not really worthy of its light blue
status on the Bucharest Monopoly board. It is home to the
capital’s most chaotic department store, BIG, now joined
opposite by the rather more swish Sun Plaza mall. You’ll
find it behind Piata Sudului.
The district of Titan was the largest housing project in
the country when it was completed in the late 1960s. It is
home to more than a tenth of the city’s population, and is
today seeing something of a revival, with hundreds of new
apartments being built in shiny new blocks. The redevelop-
ment of the big Titan park has helped the area.
Colentina is an area of high-rise blocks and shabby
houses often built haphazardly along streets which even
today remain unpaved, and in many cases without proper
running water and sewerage. It is of absolutely no interest
to visitors.
Tei was probably a lovely area once, the lake of the same
name providing a fair retreat for citizens of pre-communist
era Bucharest. Now, alas, it is another shabby area of blocks.
B-dul Lacul Tei is however home to Bucharest’s Circus.
Gara de Est (or more commonly, Gara Obor) is another
of Bucharest’s stations that sees almost no traffic. Just eight
trains a day leave from here, all bar one of which are painfully
slow personal trains serving Godforsaken places such as
Oltenita on the Danube. For those interested in pointless
train journeys, take the 07:40 to Oltenita, which stops first
at Bucuresti Sud, then does a shuttle to Titan Sud, goes
back to Bucuresti Sud, and only then carries on to its final
destination. Fantastic. The one train of interest to those
not wanting to see Romania’s peasantry at first hand is the
rapid that departs from here to Constanta every evening at
17:51.
B-dul Timişoara is the city’s western escape route.
Piata Danny Huwe, at its eastern end, is named for a
young Belgian journalist killed in Bucharest during the 1989
revolution. The huge Plaza Romania, one of the city’s largest
shopping centres, is found at No. 26.
The district of Drumul Taberei was something of a
socialist showpiece when first constructed in the 1960s,
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
26 Bucharest Monopoly
a planned suburb of wide avenues, parks, hospitals, clinics
and shopping centres. It remains one of the best-kept areas
in the city, though poor public transport connections and its
distance from the city centre keeps real estate prices here
down, whether they be on the Monopoly board or off. It was
in this neighbourhood (then a field) that Tudor Vladimirescu
camped with his forces during the failed peasants’ rebellion
of 1821.
The first of the red set is B-dul Carol. The Secession
houses, hotels and public buildings that line it could make it
one of the finest streets in Europe. Alas almost every building
is in poor repair, and many are considered major earthquake
risks. Named B-dul Republicii during the communist period,
Marxists would be horrified to discover that the Bucharest
Stock Exchange (Bursa de Valori Bucuresti, BVB) once
operated in the skyscraper at Nos. 34-36. Opposite, on the
corner of Str. Armeneasca, is the newly renovated Biserica
Armeneasca, centre of the Armenian faith in Romania.
At Piata Universitatii, B-dul Carol becomes B-dul Mihai
Kogalniceanu, another of Bucharest’s many streets that
carried a different name before 1989, in this case B-dul
Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej. (Dej was Romania’s first com-
munist leader). Home to the main building of Bucharest
University, the Cercul Militar and Bucharest City Hall, it has
many secrets. The derelict but once gorgeous Hotel Cismigiu
is just one. Built in Secession style at the end of the 19th
century the hotel was closed in 1990, and though already in
an advanced state of dereliction was pressed into service
as a student dormitory. It was only closed in 1993 after a
young girl was tragically killed after falling 60 metres down
an empty elevator shaft. The case became a cause celebre
amongst Bucharest’s students and their campaign for decent
accommodation, and in 1998 was even the inspiration for a
song, Hotel Cismigiu, by popular local band Vama Veche.
The hotel was recently bought by a private developer, who
Bucharest In Your Pocket
has pledged to restore it to former glories.
B-dul Eroilor is home to the enormous Academia
Militara (Miltary Academy), designed by Duiliu Marcu (also
responsible for the Palatul Victoriei) and completed in 1939.
The Academy was one of the few places in Bucharest that
saw live action during the relatively peaceful handover of
power from Marshall Antonescu to King Mihai in August 1944.
A small plaque in the courtyard commemorates the soldiers
killed while successfully attacking the building, which played
host to German military ‘advisors’ throughout World War II,
and which served as a last bastion of Nazism in Romania.
Now almost completely swallowed by its big brother Gara
de Nord, Gara Basarab is the third station on the Bucharest
Monopoly board, and serves a number of personal trains
that run to and from the villages which dot the countryside
around the capital.
B-dul Nicolae Titulescu, which runs from Piata Victoriei
to Gara de Nord, is home to almost nothing of note. Lined
by tower blocks its main point of interest for visitors is the
legendary Dubliner, the first (and still probably the best) Irish
pub in Romania. The large Italianate building at the corner
with Str. Banu Manta is the city hall of Bucharest’s Sector
1, built from 1927-36.
B-dul 1 Mai is one of those streets that just can’t make
its mind up. Marked on some maps (including the one in
Bucharest In Your Pocket) as B-dul Ion Mihalache, most
locals continue to use the communist era name, B-dul 1 Mai.
One of the oldest arteries in the city it leads to the Brancov-
eanu Palace at Mogosoaia, and the suburb of Bucurestii Noi
(New Bucharest), a place worthy of a footnote: Constructed
from 1953-7, this showpiece development of Neo Classical-
style blocks common in the USSR (but rare in Romania) was
the first major housing project to be built in Bucharest after
the communist takeover.
The fact that Calea Dorobanti follows B-dul 1 Mai is
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Bucharest Monopoly
one of the vagaries of the Monopoly board that makes the
game such fun. Regarded by many as the best address in
the capital (and more deserving of a place up in the dark
blues than B-dul Magheru), Dorobanti was originally known
as Ulita Fierastraului, and was the private domain of 18th-
century humanist Alexandru Ipsilanti, who had his summer
house at the northern end of the street. It was renamed
Calea Dorobantilor in 1878, in honour of the Dorobanti (foot
soldiers) who died in Romania’s wars of independence. Home
to embassies and large villas of the super-wealthy, its most
famous landmark is the headquarters of Romanian Televi-
sion (Televiziunea Romana) at No. 191. Built in 1968 in a
strange, modernist style it was the scene of heavy fighting
during the 1989 revolution.
Avoiding the Go to Jail square (which in Bucharest means
Jilava Prison, south of the city), we arrive at Piata Unirii, the
centre of Nicolae Ceausescu’s Civic Centre (Centru Civic).
Piata Unirii has in fact been around for as long as Bucharest
has existed: there was a market here as early as the 16th
century. Today’s square is unrecognizable from that which
stood here before 1976. Back then it was surrounded by
low-rise houses, shops, and the early-19th century Hanul lui
Manuc. The Hanul is now all that remains: two sides of the
square are faced by apartment blocks, while on the eastern
side is Unirea: the country’s first department store when
opened in 1977, and today a modern shopping centre. The
once lively daily market that operated in the centre of the
square is now hidden behind Unirea.
Cotroceni is a leafy, wealthy and sought-after district of
Bucharest home to Cotroceni Palace: the official residence
of Romania’s president. Other residents include the Arenele
BNR: home of the Romanian Open tennis tournament that
takes place every September.
Of all the city’s streets, none is more historic than Calea
Victoriei. Dating back to 1692, it was created by Constantin
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
27
Brancoveanu to link the old city center around Piata Unirii
with his residence at Mogosoaia. Originally built with logs, it
was paved with stone in 1825, when it became a fashionable
place for the wealthy to build residences. Many of the best
houses remain to this day, including the Casa Vernescu at
No. 133 (today a casino) and the Casa Romanit at No. 111
(today the Art Collection Museum). It is also home to numer-
ous churches, museums, the former royal palace and the
extraordinary CEC building at No. 13. See the feature on the
folowing pages.
Gara de Nord is Bucharest’s only railway station of
any importance. All trains in and out of the capital stop
here. It was opened in 1872, at once with the completion
of Romania’s first railway line, from Bucharest to Ploiesti.
While much of the building dates from that period, it was
extensively rebuilt in the 1930s, when the façade took on
its present, rather minimalist linearity, inspired by the Italian
railway stations being built at the time.
B-dul Magheru is a noisy, dusty and shabby street that
barely warrants its place amongst the dark blues at the
sexy end of the Monopoly board. It is named for Gheorghe
Magheru (1802-80), an outlaw turned Wallachian general
who took part in the peasant uprising of June 1848. Magheru
was exiled after the uprising was put down by Turkish forces
in Autumn 1848, and returned only after the unification of
Wallachia and Moldavia in 1859.
The last and most expensive property on the Bucharest
Monopoly board is B-dul Primaverii, a leafy residential
street in the north of the city. Lined with large villas and
classy apartment blocks it is home to some of the richest
and most powerful people in the country. Apartments here
cost anything from €500,000 upwards. During the 1980s the
well-guarded building (it remains state property) on the corner
with B-dul Mircea Eliade (in those days B-dul Kalinin) was
the official residence of Nicolae Ceausescu.
June - July 2011
28 Calea Victoriei
No street in Bucharest has a history to match that of Calea
Victoriei, the city’s most famous thoroughfare which runs
- much as it has for more than three centuries - from Piata
Victoriei in the north of the city all the way down to Piata Na-
tiunilor Unite and the Dambovita river. Lined with fine houses,
palaces, churches, hotels, upmarket shops and museums, it
remains perhaps the most prestigious address in the city.
Calea Victoriei was first opened to traffic - or what passed
for traffic in those days - in 1692, originally part of the route from
the Old Court (Curtea Veche, see page 76) to Mogosoaia,
where Constantin Brancoveanu, that great ruler of these parts
who did so much to modernise the country during his long and
distinguished reign - had his main palace. The street has had
many names over the years, including Ulita Sarindar, Drumul
Brasovului and Drumul Mogosoaia - its name until 1878 when
it became Calea Victoriei in honour of victories recently won by
Romanian armies fighting to preserve the country’s newly won
independence from the Ottoman Empire.
The street - originally covered with logs, as was the norm in
those days - was fully paved by 1825, one of the first in the city
(Strada Franceza, in Old Town, closer to the Old Court, was in
fact the first). There followed a blossoming of construction as
the street became a magnet for wealthy merchants who built
homes along its length, keen to be spared the ignominies of
the mud streets which persisted elsewhere. Though much has
changed since, and not a few majestic buildings have fallen
victim to earthquake, war, socialist planning or modernisation,
many of the buildings which went up along Calea Victoriei in
the first part of the 19th century remain.
Orientation: modern Calea Victoriei can be split more
or less neatly into two sections: the residential northern
part, noted mainly for its fine houses and palaces and
the more commercial southern part, packed with hotels,
shops, banks, restaurants and cafes. To start a walk of
the full length of the street at the northern end (which we
recommend, as you can then end up by relaxing in one
of the cafes of Old Town), simply take the metro to Piata
Victoriei.
Piata Victoriei to Calea Grivitei
For all its history, Calea Victoriei does not start well. Piata
Victoriei is an awful place, all cars and traffic, smoke and dust.
The modernist building on the far side is the Palatul din Piata
Victoriei, home today of the Romanian government (though
when it was built in the 1930s it was the Foreign Ministry). On
the other side of the square is the Grigore Antipa Museum
of Natural History, built in 1906 and eternally undergoing
renovation. It is due to reopen sometime later in 2011, but do
not hold your breath. Elsewhere, Piata Victoriei is a socialist
nightmare, with its more recently built office blocks barely
more attractive than those built before 1989.
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Shopping on Calea Victoriei
While the masses head for Bucharest‘s malls, those
with oodles of cash head for the upmarket shops on
Calea Victoriei.
Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea
Victoriei 45, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, w w w.
librariaengleza.ro.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00
- 14:00. A
Cellini C-5, Calea Victoriei 102-108, tel. (+4)
031 432 90 41, www.cellini.ro. High-end watches.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Emporio Armani C-5, Calea Victoriei 60-64, tel.
(+4) 021 310 81 30/(+4) 021 310 81 34, www.
emporioarmani.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun. PA
Ermenegildo Zegna B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81,
tel. (+4) 021 316 89 75, www.zegna.ro. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Gerard Darel B-4, Calea Victoriei 118, www.
gerarddarel.com. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00.
Helvetansa B-4, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4)
021 226 22 02, swisswatches@helvetansa.ro,
www.helvetansa.ro. For Swiss-made watches that
you buy once in a lifetime. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at (C-5) B-dul Balcescu
25, tel. (+4) 021 311 17 08 and (B-4) Calea Victoriei 88,
tel. (+4) 021 310 38 00.
Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 45,
tel. (+4) 021 313 50 35. Large bookshop. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Gucci C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 0734 45 05
50, www.gucci.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. PA
Hugo Boss B-4, Calea Victoriei 145, tel. (+4) 021
311 88 97, www.hugoboss.com. QOpen 10:00 -
20:00. Closed Sun. A
Max Mara C-5, Calea Victoriei 122A, tel. (+4) 021
316 89 77, www.maxmara.com. Q Open 10:00 -
20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Micri Gold C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, tel. (+4) 021
312 00 57, office@micrigold.ro, www.micrigold.
ro. Gold jewellery imported from Italy. QOpen 10:30 -
19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Pal Zileri C-5, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021
312 72 01, www.palzileri.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Romartizana B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20, tel. (+4)
021 313 14 65, www.romartizana.com.ro. Traditional
souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Victoria 46 Mall C-5, Calea Victoriei 46, tel. (+4)
021 315 22 93, www.victoria46.ro. QOpen 10:00 -
21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Frey Wille
Frey Wille C-5, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 031 620
13 54, www.frey-wille.com. Frey Wille boutiques are found
in the most exclusive locations around the world, including
Bucharest’s very own street of style and luxury, Calea Victoriei.
Expect to find only the finest jewellery and accessories here,
and there is a good selection for both men and women. We are
big fans of the pens... they are very special indeed. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 CALEA VICTORIEI 29

Heading off from here along Calea Victoriei itself, the first
building of any real interest is the Palatul Cantacuzino at
No. 141, usually referred to (mistakenly) as the Casa Enescu.
The building does house the Romanian Museum of Music
(which carries the name of George Enescu, the country’s
finest composer) but - contrary to popular belief, Enescu
never lived here, although there is a connection. The vaguely
baroque, Louis XVI-style building dates from 1898, when it
was built for the wealthy politician Gheorghe Cantacuzino.
On his death in 1913 the palace became the property of
Cantacuzino’s eldest son Mihai, who in turn left it to his wife,
Maruca, when he died in 1929. Maruca subsequently married
Enescu - in 1939 - but they chose to live in a smaller house at
the rear of the palace.
Crossing Strada Gheorghe Manu, you will come across
two gorgeous houses next to each other: the Neo-Classical
yet very French Casa Nenciu, was built in the 1830s for a
Wallachian princess, the exotically named Cleopatra Trubetkoi.
In 1847 Franz Liszt stayed here while on an extended visit
to the Bucharest. Next door at No. 192 is the Casa Manu,
completed in 1843 for the modernising administrator Alecu
Florescu, but named for the man who bought it in 1848: the
legendary general Gheorghe Manu.
The Casa Lens-Vernescu at No. 133 (to give the mansion
its full name) is one of the finest on Calea Victoriei, built around
1820 in an eclectic style incorporating many of the architectural
trends of the time. For years it was regarded as the most beauti-
ful house in the city, and belonged initially to Filip Lens, a lawyer
and politician. On his death in 1852 the house became a resi-
dence for military officers, the Ministry of War moving in shortly
afterwards. Another politician, Gheorghe Vernescu, bought it
from the state in 1186, and had it extensively remodelled over
a two-year period from 1887-9. Today the building houses a
casino and a (very good if rather formal) restaurant.
The house on the south-western corner of the Calea Victo-
riei/Bulvardul Dacia intersection (opposite the new-ish Golden
Tulip hotel) is the Casa Monteoru. One of the oldest on Calea
Victoriei it dates from around 1810, although it was almost
entirely reconstructed in the 1880s (to designs by Ion Mincu - an
architect whose name you come across a lot in Bucharest). The
building is distinguished by its uneven character: the ground floor
is much smaller than the upper floor, the gorgeous balcony of
which is supported by two broad, Corinthian columns. Eclectic
both inside and out the building is today one of a number in the
city owned by the Romanian Writer’s Union.
Next door is a fine palace, known as the Palat Romanit
which hosts the Museum of Art Collections. The central
corp was built in 1834, then rebuilt and extended in 1883,
when the wings were added. For much of the 19th century the
building was home to the Ministry of Finance, becoming an
art museum in 1948, when the wealthiest families in Romania
were made an offer they wouldn’t refuse by the communist
government, and forced to donate much (in many cases all)
of their extensive art collections to the state. Speaking of
the state, the elegant, modernist if neglected linear building
opposite, at No. 152, is another Duiliu Marcu design, built from
1936-40 and from 1948-1989 home of the State Planning
Committee. Looking every inch a 1930s Italian railway sta-
tion, the clock on the main tower is a gem.

Commercial Calea Victoriei

It is at the crossroads with Calea Grivitei that you notice a
real change in the mood of Calea Victoriei. The road and
pavements narrow, and houses, palaces and small parks give
way to blocks - many of which are nevertheless elegant if run
down - with shops on the ground floor.
Yet the first building of real interest on this part of Calea
Victoriei will for most people be the little white church set
back from the street in a small square on the corner of Str.

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

30 CALEA VICTORIEI
George Enescu. Known colloquially as the Biserica Alba
(White Church), it is officially the Biserica Sf. Nicolae and is
one of the oldest in Bucharest, being founded in 1700. The
current structure dates from 1827, however (the original was
destroyed in an earthquake), with the interior frescoes for
which it is famed having been restored a number of times,
most recently in 1988.
The glass and steel opposite belong to the Radisson
Blu hotel, opened in 2008 after a refit of several years had
turned the tired, old and often infamous Hotel Bucuresti into
the five-star wonder the rich and famous throng to today. The
hotel’s interior courtyard is home - in the right weather - to one
of the few outdoor swimming pools in the city. (The original
Hotel Bucuresti was built from 1982-4).
In what is very much Bucharest’s Hotel Row, directly
across the road from the Radisson is the Athenee Palace
Hilton, one of few hotel’s in the world whose history is so in-
triguing that books have been written about it (Rosie Waldeck’s
Athenee Palace details the intricate diplomatic discussions
- official or otherwise - which took place here in the 1930s
and 1940s). The hotel opened in 1912 (it was designed by a
Frenchman, Teophile Bradeau) and was built on the site of an
old inn, the Hanul Gherasi. The Calea Victoriei wing was added
in the 1960s, and the hotel was entirely renovated again in 1997
when it became a Hilton property. Most recently the ground floor
brasserie was remodelled and reopened as the Cafe Athenee.
The Athenee Palace views for attention on Piata Revo-
lutiei with the Atheneum, the Former Royal Palace, the
University Library (pictured above), the Former Central
Committee Building, the Revolution Monument, the Cre-
tulescu Church (see page 50) and the new statue of Carol I
(see page 20). In fact, there are two squares here: the area as
far as the Carol I statue is Piata George Enescu, with Piata
Revolutiei only kicking in beyond that. Most people refer to
the whole open space as Piata Revolutiei, however. Most
of those buildings are covered elsewhere in this guide (see
in particular Buildings With a History on pages 72-73), but
there are a couple we should point out for you. First off, take a
look at the building just behind and to the left of the University
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Library: the modern green office block inside the ruins of an old
house. What happened here is simple: the building was all but
destroyed during the 1989 revolution (this square saw most
of the action: it was from the balcony of the Former Central
Committee Building that Nicolae Ceausescu gave his last
public speech, before fleeing the next day from the roof in a
helicopter). It was taken over by the Architects’ Union who
then created the rather splendid mix of old and new we admire
today. The Revolution Monument is a less impressive affair,
mocked by locals who call it an olive on a stick.
Shops of the classy and expensive kind occupy the ground
floor of the buildings that line Calea Victoriei as it closes in
again, at least as far as the two hotels - historic both for
differing reasons - that greet you at the crossroads with Ion
Campaneanu. The Grand Continental Hotel was reopened
in 2009 after being almost totally rebuilt. Opposite is the No-
votel, whose faux Neo-Classical entrance is an exact replica
of that of Bucharest’s original National Theatre, which stood
here from 1852 until it was destroyed in an allied bombing raid
in August 1944. Next to the Novotel is the art deco Palatul
Telefoanelor (Telephone Palace). Built over three years from
1929-32 to serve as the headquarters of Romania’s national
telephone company it was the first building in the country to
be constructed in the manner of an American skyscraper:
concrete reinforced by a steel frame.
There are three other hotels on this part of the street: the
Majestic, the Capitol and the Casa Capsa - the latter being
one of the oldest in the city, dating back to 1886. The cafe on
the ground floor was for decades - especially in the 1920s and
1930s - the unofficial home of Romania’s best writers, who
would wile away their days here. The name refers to the founder
of the hotel, Grigore Capsa, who was said to be able to spot a
decent writer a mile away.
Opposite the Telephone Palace is the Pasajul Victoriei. Built
in the 1830s, it was home for a long time to the Bucharest’s most
luxurious brothel. King Carol II was allegedly a regular client. The
brothel was closed in 1947, but the goings-on inside (and in the
pasaj in general) are immortalized in Ion Matei Caragiale’s 1929
novel Craii de Curtea Veche.
The Cercul Militar was completed in 1912, on the site
of a former monastery, the Sarindar. A recently renovated
fountain in front of the building preserves the Sarindar name.
The hoardings and enormous adverts opposite cover up the
Hotel Bulevard, built in the 1860s and the first in the city to
have running water in the rooms, closed in 2005 ahead of a
five-star refit, but now in limbo.
On the opposite corner, find the little courtyard (next to
Pizza Hut) which leads through to one of Bucharest’s many
hidden churches. Dating from 1683 the church’s name is a
mouthful: the Biserica Intrarea Maicii Domnului în Biserică
(the Church of the Entrance of the Mother of God into Church).
The recently restored frescoes are worth popping inside to see.
From here Calea Victoriei heads gently downhill towards
the river, passing the Bancorex building at No. 15 (now called
the Bucharest Financial Plaza) the first modern office block
to be built after 1990. Bancorex - bank set up to absorb and
disperse foreign loans and investment in the early 1990s went
bust in 1999, and has become a byword for post-communist
corruption. Next door of course is the far more satisfactory
CEC building (see page 72), while opposite is the National
History Museum (see page 73). The Old Town/Lipscani
area lurks behind the History Museum.
At the very bottom of the street, facing the river, are the
Gloriette Buildings, neither of which is in the best of shape.
Designed by local architect Petru Antonescu and completed
in 1926, they are worth noting for their design (particularly
the belvedere at the top), which was used a blueprint for the
apartment buildings which went up in the Civic Centre along
Bulevardul Unirii in the 1980s (and which, it should be said,
have weathered no better).
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
32 Where to stay
Cream of the Crop
Athenee Palace Hilton C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel.
(+4) 021 303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 38 13, sales.
bucharest@hilton.com, www.hiltonbucharest.com.
Much spoken of in the past tense (this place has a seri-
ously long and legendary history; a home of intrigues and
adventure for more than a century) it is less often referred
to in the present. This is a deep shame, as to dwell on the
past ignores the fact that this is a great, modern hotel.
Luxuriously furnished, the immense rooms offer the latest
in gadgetry and perhaps the fluffiest bathrobes in Romania.
Ask for a room with a view over Piata Revolutiei for best ef-
fect. Fine dining on site courtesy of one excellent restaurant
and an exemplary brasserie. Q 272 rooms (175 singles/
doubles, 96 suites and apartments. Prices from €110-250).
PHARUFLGKDCW
Carol Parc Aleea Suter 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 336 33
77/(+4) 021 569 33 77, fax (+4) 021 336 37 36, info@
carolparchotel.ro, www.carolparchotel.ro. Luxurious,
certainly, but offering something a bit different to the bigger
players, the Carol Park is coquette and secluded: you have
to know about this place, as you do not find it by chance. A
gorgeous place where the finest things are offered to all who
pass through its doors, expect only fine, classic furnishings
and very personal service. International stars who value
discretion above all else tend to stay here when visiting
Bucharest. Q 17 rooms (14 singles/doubles €225-345, 3
apartments €750). Prices include breakfast. VAT not included.
PHARLGKW
Crowne Plaza Bucharest A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel.
(+4) 021 224 00 34, reservations@crowneplaza.ro,
www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. Contemporary and
welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reas-
suring global standards you would expect of the brand, from
first class accommodation to world class facilities. With a re-
nowned reputation for individual and friendly service, the hotel
can also offer the greenest setting in the capital, surrounded
as it is by beautifully maintained grounds. Can also boast a
large swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms
to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining options.
Q 164 rooms (130 singles/doubles €160-170, 26 suites
€195, 8 apartments €230). Prices include Buffet Breakfast.
VAT not included. PTHARUFLGKDCW
Epoque B-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312
32 32, fax (+4) 021 300 57 23, office@epoque.ro, www.
epoque.ro. Now here’s a hotel we have no problem in recom-
mending. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque
has a number of things going for it, not least its location on
the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the
city yet at the same time offering the impression of a retreat.
Rooms are large and tastefully furnished, there are plenty of
extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and for
what you get, the prices are a steal. Q 45 rooms (16 junior
suites €149, 27 executive suites €159-179, 2 apartments
€320-420). Prices do not include breakfast and VAT. Taxes not
included. PTHARUFLGKDCW
Grand Hotel Continental C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, tel.
(+4) 0372 01 03 00, fax (+4) 0372 01 03 01, info@
grandhotelcontinental.ro, www.continentalhotels.ro.
Making the very best of a wonderful building (which dates from
1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, today’s Grand Hotel Continental
is the result of more than two years of loving renovation and
restoration. There’s marble at every turn, though do not think
that modern touches are missing, for they are not. The audio-
visual systems in the rooms for example are state of the art.
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Symbol Key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Disabled facilities
R Internet (Standard) L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
M Nearest metro station J Old Town location
K Restaurant D Sauna
C Swimming pool W WiFi Internet
For the great location and for a change from the big chains,
it’s well worth trying out.Q 59 rooms (20 singles/ doubles
€99-110, 39 suites and apartments €129-600). All taxes and
breakfast included. PTHAR6UFLGKW
Howard Johnson Grand Plaza B-3, Calea Dorobantilor
5-7, MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, www.
hojoplaza.ro. This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre of
Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched by
the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of top-name de-
signers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the city, coming
as it does with champagne (for those who enjoy such things
in the morning), and the dining opportunities in general are
excellent: there is a wonderful Japanese restaurant, Benihana,
on site. To really get the best out of this place though, ask
for a room on one of the upper floors, for the views over the
city. Q 285 rooms (268 singles/doubles €125-160, 15 suites
€215, 2 apartments €375). Prices include breakfast. Taxes
not included. POTHARUFLGKDW
InterContinental C-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 2-4, MU-
niversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, fax (+4) 021 312 04
86, reservations@interconti.ro, www.intercontinental.
com/bucharest. Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest (complete
with a small swimming pool and - during the summer, sun
terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental was the first
major five star hotel to open in Romania, at the beginning of
the 1970s. Today it is one of many but remains something
of a first choice for journalists and business people, many of
whom have been loyal guests for decades. The rooms here
all boast big balconies with great views of the city, there is
first class dining in the building, and the management is com-
mendably hands-on. Q 257 rooms (236 singles/doubles, 20
junior suites, 1 apartment). Prices from €139-€319 (June),
€129-€289 (July) and include breakfast but not local taxes
(9%). POTHAR6FLGKDCW
JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel B-6, Calea 13
Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021 403 00 00, fax (+4) 021
403 00 01, marriott.bucharest@marriotthotels.com,
www.marriott.com/buhro. To the south of Casa Poporului
the JW Marriott occupies something of a palatial building
that at first glance probably makes it the most immediately
impressive of Bucharest’s big five star hotels. The scale of
the place, and its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that
it was built as part of the same grand plan as the Casa
Poporului itself. Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished,
providing a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good
dining options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the
city (we think).Q 402 rooms (379 singles/doubles 750-800
lei, 23 suites & apartments 1500-5000 lei). Prices include
breakfast. VAT not included. POTHAR6UFL�
GKDCW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
34 Where to stay
Novotel Bucharest City Centre B-4, Calea Victoriei
37B, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, fax (+4) 021 308 85 01,
H5558@accor.com, www.novotel.com. Few locations
are better than this, right on fashionable Calea Victoriei. The
entrance is impressive: a replica of the old neoclassical Na-
tional Theatre which stood on this exact site until the British
bombed it to next week during the Second World War. Shiny
and new the main part of the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big,
with bathrooms particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby
bar and a big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits
of staying here.Q 258 rooms (242singles/doubles €225-
250, 16 suites €275-375). Prices do not include breakfast and
VAT. POTHAR6UFLGKDCW
Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center A-1, P-ta
Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, fax (+4) 021
316 25 50, pullman@pullman.ro, www.pullmanhotels.
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Loads more hotels
and online booking at
inyourpocket.com
com. The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction
at this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms
boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are
separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-
meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else
in Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed,
and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre with
sauna and massage available. Q 203 rooms (188 singles/
doubles €205-225, 15 suites / apartments €305-800). Prices
do not include VAT and breakfast. POTHAR6U�
FLGKDW
Radisson Blu B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00, fax (+4) 021 313 90 00, Info.Bucharest@
radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucha-
rest. A gleaming temple of steel and glass amongst the more
classical buildings of Calea Victoriei, the Radisson excels in
playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As
you walk in the glass bar strikes you as daring and modern,
and the rooms themselves are equally avant garde in design.
Bathrooms offer both tubs and showers, and there is both
an indoor and outdoor pool, so you can swim whatever the
weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime Prime
Steaks and Seafood. Q 718 rooms (385 singles/doubles
500-750 lei, 333 suites/ apartments 730-8500 lei). Prices
include breakfast (except single, double and extra bed rates).
PJHARUFLGKDCW
Over €150
Angelo Calea Bucurestilor 283, tel. (+4) 021 203 65
00, fax (+4) 021 203 65 30, info@angelo-bucharest.
com, www.angelo-bucharest.com. The hotel closest to Bu-
charest’s Otopeni airport. The Angelo is operated by Vienna
Hotels, and its bright exterior is matched by the interior: bold
colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas. There
is high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre complete
with sauna. Transport to and from the airport is complimenta-
ry. Good buffet breakfast. Q 177 rooms (172 singles/doubles
€165-175, 5 apartments €215). Prices include all taxes and
breakfast. PTHAR6UFLGKDW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Duke C-4, B-dul Dacia 33, MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021
317 41 86/(+4) 021 317 41 87, fax (+4) 021 317 41 89,
office@hotelduke.ro, www.hotelduke.ro. Now this place
is central. A proverbial stone’s throw from Piata Romana,
this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight spot between two
classic Bucharest buildings of the past. Rooms are well-sized,
bathrooms have tubs and showers, and there’s free and fast
Wifi throughout. Beds get high marks for their excellent mat-
tresses. Q 37 rooms (33 singles/doubles €81-91, 4 suites
and apartments €101-141). Prices include all taxes, VAT and
breakfast. PARLGKW
Golden Tulip Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, tel. (+4)
021 316 65 16/(+4) 021 316 65 18, fax (+4) 021 316
65 19, reservations@goldentuliptimes.com, www.
goldentuliptimes.com. This, people, is a very good hotel
where you get a hell of a lot of room for a relatively small
amount of money. All come furnished well with terrific beds,
big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms are equally
impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughout and a host
of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast. The
on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-based eateries
in the city. Q 70 rooms (54 singles/doubles €169-189, 16
apartments €219). Prices include all taxes and breakfast.
PTHARULGKW
K+K Elisabeta C-5, Str. Slanic 26, tel. (+4) 021 302 92
80, fax (+4) 021 311 86 32, hotel.elisabeta@kkhotels.
ro, www.kkhotels.ro. We loved this place for a number of
reasons, not least the fact that the huge breakfast buffet
stays open until 11:00, meaning late starters can still get
breakfast. The hotel is located in a huge, renovated period
house just behind Piata Universitatii. The discretion of the
location betrays the fact that this is the kind of place you come
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay 35
to if you like old fashioned luxury, good service, and possess
exceptional taste. Q 67 rooms (59 singles/doubles €252-
275, 7 triples €330, 1 suite €400). Prices include all taxes
and breakfast. PTHAR6FGKDW
NH Bucharest D-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel. (+4)
021 300 05 45, fax (+4) 021 317 91 54, nhbucharest@
nh-hotels.com, www.nh-hotels.com. Not located in the
most attractive area of the city, the NH makes up for that
by offering a modern, contemporary hotel experience for a
fair amount of money: you can usually stay here for far less
than the rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of
extras and a very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay
with children and babies: the staff make a point of making
them feel welcome. Q 76 rooms (76 singles/doubles €65).
Prices include all taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included.
PTHARULGKW
Parliament A-6, Str. Izvor 106, tel. (+4) 021 411 99 90,
fax (+4) 021 411 99 91, www.parliament-hotel.ro. So
named because it is located behind Romania’s parliament
building, Casa Poporului, which you can see from almost all of
the rooms. This hotel has been around for a decade now and
offers a four/five star experience: many of the rooms have
jacuzzis in their bathrooms and are packed with luxuries such
as the huge, high double beds, which are among the best
we’ve come across in Bucharest. Q 76 rooms (singles/
doubles €130-150, suites/apartments €170). Prices include
VAT and breakfast. PHARUGKW
Ramada Bucharest Parc A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5,
tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.
ro. The Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came
under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise in a
June - July 2011
36 Where to stay
leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau park - hence
the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not big - are com-
fortable and boast brightly coloured décor and gorgeous, soft
cotton sheets on the beds. Great buffet breakfast included
in the price. Q 267 rooms (180 singles €156, 79 doubles
€178, 8 apartments €235). Prices include VAT and breakfast.
PHAR6UFGKDCW
Ramada Hotel & Suites Bucharest North C-6, Str.
Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, fax
(+4) 021 233 50 01, reservations@ramadanorth.ro,
www.ramadanorth.ro. Well named, for it is indeed in the
north of the city. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on
average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous:
all have bathtubs. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with
excellent Turkish bath), big fitness room with loads of equip-
ment and has a good lobby bar. The on-site dining is decent
too. Q 232 rooms (164 singles/doubles €75-84, 24 triple
and 31 suites upon request, 13 apartments €99.48). Prices
include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHARU�
FLGKDW
Ramada Majestic B-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, tel. (+4)
021 310 27 20/(+4) 021 310 27 72, fax (+4) 021 310
27 99, reservations@ramadamajestic.ro, www.ramad-
amajestic.ro. Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea
Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of Bucharest’s best
hotels. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a
great breakfast and - a real bonus - a swimming pool (albeit
a rather small one). In a city in which even some of the five
star hotels lack pools, the Majestic’s makes it well worth
that little bit extra cash. Q 111 rooms (85 singles/doubles
€240-290, 26 suites and apartments €350-1200). Prices
include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHARU�
FLGKDCW
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Ramada Plaza Bucharest B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel.
(+4) 021 549 30 00, fax (+4) 021 549 30 01, reser-
vations@ramadaplazabucharest.ro, www.ramadapla-
zabucharest.ro. Slightly more upmarket than its sister
establishment across the road, what you get here is a slightly
bigger room than at the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms.
The design of the place is nicely futuristic, and we loved the
beds which we think are amongst the best in Bucharest. Free
Wifi is a bonus, there is a good lobby bar and a decent on site
bistro. Good value for the money. Q 266 rooms (259 singles/
doubles €178-200, 7 apartments €302). Prices include VAT
and breakfast. PHARUFGKDCW
Scala Bucuresti C-5, Str. C. A. Rosetti 19, tel. (+4)
031 104 11 11/(+4) 031 104 11 13, www.hotels-
calabucuresti.ro. As central as they come, this gorgeous
conversion of a glorious ancien regime Bucharest house
is as fine a place to stay as now exists in the Romanian
capital. You will love the grand, classically furnished rooms,
which come complete with high ceilings and restored, original
wooden flooring. The loft suite, complete with skylights, is a
special treat if you can splash the extra cash. Q 11 rooms
(10 single/double €159-219, 1 suite €259). Prices include
breakfast. PTHAR6FLGKW
Z Executive Boutique Hotel C-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4, tel.
(+4) 031 140 02 00, fax (+4) 021 890 15 10, manage-
ment@zhotel.ro, www.zhotel.ro. You want central? Well
this place is central. In a building on a street hidden a little
behind the Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to
enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of central
Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully furnished
and come with comfortable beds and good bathrooms.
Plenty of little luxuries, not least full, free Wifi throughout.
The breakfast room is great, and there’s an on site bistro
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

with great views of the busy streets outside. Q 21 rooms
(21 singles/doubles €125-145). Prices include all taxes, VAT
and breakfast. PTHARGK
€100-150
Armonia D-4, Calea Mosilor 112, tel. (+4) 021 312 04
77, fax (+4) 021 312 04 06, office@hotelarmonia.ro,
www.hotelarmonia.ro. Not altogether that inviting from
the outside, the Armonia offers terrific (though not all that big)
rooms that come complete with what have to be contenders
for the ‘best bathrooms in the city’ prize we often mention
but never get round to handing out. In spring and summer the
terrace at the back is a great place to take your breakfast
(included in the price of a room). Q 32 rooms (29 singles/
doubles €110-140, 3 apartments €220). Prices include all
taxes and breakfast. PTHAR6ULGKW
Berthelot B-5, Str. General Berthelot 9, tel./fax (+4)
031 425 58 60, tel. (+4) 031 425 58 61, office@hotel-
berthelot.ro, www.hotelberthelot.ro. Smart, modern and
dead central. What more could you want? For your money
you are getting a good deal here: the rooms are big and well
furnished with plenty of mod cons, such as LCD televisions,
while the bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably
fluffy and the cosmetics a cut above the norm. Q 43 rooms
(6 singles €89-129, 37 doubles €109-139). Prices include
VAT and breakfast. PHARULGKW
Central B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 13, tel. (+4) 021 315
56 35, www.centralhotel.ro. Central by name, central by
nature. Slap, bang on Bucharest’s version of Broadway (it’s
all relative), amongst cinemas and theatres, the Central was
totally renovated last year and is now one of the best (and
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay 37
best value) stays in the city. We like the staff who are always
friendly, and who go out of their way to make sure you do not
get ripped off by dodgy taxi drivers: such attention to detail is
to be applauded. Q 62 rooms (45 singles/doubles €110-120,
12 suites €140, 5 apartments €160). Prices include all taxes
and breakfast. PTHAR6UGKW
El Greco
C-5, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 16, MP-ta Universitatii,
tel. (+4) 021 315 81 31/(+4) 021 315 90 00, fax (+4)
021 315 88 98, office@hotelelgreco.ro, www.hotelel-
greco.ro. Located in the heart of what was, pre-World War
II, the most stylish residential area in the city. This is one
such villa dating from that period, though it has of course
been renovated and refurbished to include a rack of modern
luxuries. Fortunately, however, the ambience of the ancien
regime has been preserved, making this one of the best villa
conversions in the city. Q 20 rooms (18 singles/doubles
€95-110, 2 suites €140). Prices for suites include breakfast
for one person. PHARULGK
Opera
B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 37, tel. (+4) 021 312 48 57/(+4)
021 312 48 55, fax (+4) 021 312 48 58, info@hotelop-
era.ro, www.hotelopera.ro. You could quite literally throw a
stone from the rooms here into Cismigiu Park (though we do
not recommend it), and as such we think this is a great place
for families with children to stay when visiting the capital. Not
cheap, we think that you get value for money, especially given
the size of the rooms and the terrific breakfast spread they
lay on every morning for guests. Staff happy and smiley too.
Q 33 rooms (26 singles/doubles €110-120, 4 suites €140,
3 apartments €160). Prices include all taxes and breakfast.
PTHAR6UGKW
June - July 2011
38 Where to stay
Residence Arc de Triomphe A-3, Str. Clucerului 19,
tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.
residencehotels.com.ro. Fantastic hotel in a good area of
the capital, offering large, excellent value rooms and super
services. There are little touches of class all over the hotel
that suggest they really care. The wrought iron beds, for ex-
ample, are fabulous, as is the newly added spa, complete with
sauna and jacuzzi. The restaurant is also worth a visit, serving
good international cuisine. Q 35 rooms (25 singles/ doubles
€90-100, 10 suites/ apartments €110-120). VAT not included.
Prices include breakfast. PTHARLGKDW

Starlight Suite B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97,

tel. (+4) 021 211 34 13, www.starlighthotels.com. At
the bustling junction of B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara, and glitzy
Calea Dorobantilor is Starlight, the first hotel of its kind in
Romania. Every room is a suite, complete with separate living
and sleeping areas; some have two bedrooms. All have air
conditioning, the latest in home entertainment systems, and
kitchenettes complete with microwaves. The fitness centre
is free to guests, and a continental breakfast is included in
the price. Excellent value for money. Q 78 rooms (72 suites
€81-95, 6 apartments €120-135). Prices include all taxes, VAT
and breakfast. PTHAR6UFLGKDW

Venezia B-5, Str. Pompiliu Eliade 2, tel. (+4) 021 310

68 72/(+4) 021 310 68 75, www.hotelvenezia.ro.
Lovingly renovated with care, taste and not a little style,
the Hotel Venezia completes a handy little triumvirate of
three-star accommodation options in and around Bulevardul
Kogalniceanu (the others being the Opera and Central hotels,
all part of the same chain). Expect some unique rooms,
some with real character provided by the shape of the build-
ing, lovely staff and some thoroughly reasonable prices. Q

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Where to stay 39

Romania’s Revolution
By 1989, communist Romania was a failed country. It had
a leader and a government, but little else. Schools closed
early in winter for a lack of heating, nobody worked as
people spent all day queuing for basic foodstuffs, and a
rampant black market saw speculators and corrupt officials
make small fortunes.
Yet even as late as November 1989, when the
Communist Party held its four-yearly congress, electing
Nicolae Ceauşescu as president for another four-year
term, there was no sign that the regime was in any trouble.
As communist regimes crumbled all over Eastern Europe,
Ceauşescu held on. Then came Timişoara.
Always a city whose people were better informed than
the rest of the country (they could watch Yugoslav television)
the population of Timişoara staged their first demonstration
on December 16, initially in protest at the demotion of a
local Hungarian priest, Laszlo Tokes. Quickly however, the
demonstrations became political, and spread.
On December 17, tens of thousands gathered in front
of the city’s Orthodox Cathedral. Ceauşescu ordered the
army to fire on the protestors, which it did. The protestors
dispersed and the next day the city was calm, with soldiers
and secret policemen everywhere; Ceauşescu proceeded
with a planned two-day state visit to Iran.
Ceauşescu returned from Iran on December 20, and
the next day a rally in Bucharest was organized to reassure
the population that he was still in control. He wasn’t. On the
morning of December 21, 1989, a large crowd brought in to
dutifully cheer him was jeered him on live television during
a rally in Piaţa Revoluţiei (C-4). The rally quickly became an
anti-communist riot, and the square was soon out of all
control. The crowd was eventually dispersed by gunfire,
though to this day it is unclear if the gunfire was ordered by 49 rooms (41 singles/doubles €110-120, 3 suites €140, 5
organs of the Ceauşescu regime, or by the Ion Iliescu group apartments €160). Prices include all taxes and breakfast.
of former communist nomenklature - known as the National PTHAR6UGKW
Salvation Front (FSN) - that was about to sieze power. It may
also have simply been the result of mass confusion. Later
on the night of December 21, the crowd moved on to Piaţa Under €100
Universităţii, where it stayed until dawn, before again being Amzei
fired upon, and, as morning broke, dispersed: there were B-4, P-ta Amzei 8, tel. (+4) 021 313 94 00, fax (+4)
hundreds of arrests. 021 313 94 94, reservations@hotelamzei.ro, www.
But by now the pendulum had swung. Revolutionaries hotelamzei.ro. Want a room in the heart of Bucharest? This
returned the next day to Piaţa Revoluţiei, while others place is for you. A delicious villa conversion in the middle of
headed for the headquarters of Romanian television. Piata Amzei, close to, well, everything. The rooms are all
A fierce battle was fought here, but by the evening of enormous, all are individually furnished and have bags of
December 22 revolutionaries – after the army had ditched character, many with sloping ceilings and hidden nooks and
Ceauşescu during the day and sided with them - had crannies. The bathrooms are a little more modest, but are
gained control of the building. Poet Mircea Dinescu made a decent size and very well decorated. The hotel’s website
the first speech on free Romanian television, ending with claims that the location is 30 minutes from Otopeni Airport.
the immortal words ‘Dictatorul a fugit. Am învins! Am Not on a Monday morning it isn’t. Q 22 rooms (14 singles/
învins!’ (‘The dictator has gone. We’ve won! We’ve won!’) doubles €89-99, 5 triples €119, 3 suites €109). Prices include
By this stage Ceauşescu and his entourage had indeed all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHARLGKW
gone, fleeing in a helicopter from the top of the Central
Committee building (today the Senate). They were caught Andy A-4, Str. Witing 2, tel. (+4) 021 300 30 50, fax (+4)
a few hours later, and shot on Christmas Day, 1989. The 021 300 30 52, www.andyhotels.ro. You can see Gara
power vacuum he left was quickly filled, with Iliescu, a one- de Nord from your bedroom window if you stay here: you can
time loyal lieutenant of Ceauşescu and life-long socialist decide for yourself if that’s good or bad. It’s a decent hotel,
forming a provisional government. It is important to note especially compared to those surrounding it, and if you are in
here that though this new government was allegedly two minds as to which station hotel to stay in, make sure you
an independent body representative of every sector of choose this one. It even has a sauna and jacuzzi. Q 49 rooms
Romanian society, Iliescu refused to allow any surviving (48 singles/doubles €30-40, 1 triple €50). Prices include all
members of Romania’s pre World War II governments join. taxes and breakfast. PHARLGKDW
Important figures - including Corneliu Coposu, a leading
liberal politician of the 1930s and 1940s who had served Boutique Hotel Monaco C-5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74,
time in Romania’s brutal communist prisons – were tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68, office@hotelmonaco.ro, www.
prevented from entering the Central Committee building. hotelmonaco.ro. A nice place on a quiet(ish) street yet still
close enough to the city centre to be within walking distance.

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

40 Where to stay
There is an elegance to the decoration that suggests they’ve
taken real time and effort over things, and the beds are large,
comfortable and covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi,
flatscreen TVs, good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel
should cost a lot more than it does: seriously good value for
money. Q 8 rooms (2 singles €50, 6 doubles €50-100). Prices
include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTALW
Charter
Drumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352 87 19/
(+4) 021 352 87 21, fax (+4) 021 352 87 16, office@
hotelcharter.ro, www.hotelcharter.ro. For what you pay
at this hotel, you get a large amount of room indeed. Really:
these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and
they cost about €1 per square metre. Close to the airport
(on the other side of the road to McDonalds) this place is
perfect if you have an early flight, though it is only fair to
say that it is a good 30 minutes or so to the city centre.
Still, with rooms and services to match anywhere, and at
prices as low as these, we doubt anyone will be complain-
ing. Q 23 rooms (17 singles/doubles €35-40, 1 triple €50,
6 suites €55). Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PTARGW
Class Bucharest Str. Garlei 30A, tel. (+4) 0372 213
57 00, www.class-hotel.ro. Close to Baneasa Airport what
this place lacks in city centre-ness it more than makes up
for with comfort. This is to all intents and purposes a five
star hotel, complete with luxurious bathrooms and perhaps
the best indoor swimming pool in the city. Really. If you are
looking for a leafier location than the city centre can offer,
and a little luxury at a decent price, then it’s a decent choice.
Q 63 rooms (59 singles/doubles/triples €73-94, 4 suites
€180). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PHARU�
FLGKDCW
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Dan B-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39
58, tel. (+4) 0727 59 95 99, office@hoteldan.ro, www.
hoteldan.ro. Smart addition to Bucharest’s enormously
popular three-star scene. The location is central without
being noisy, and the rooms themselves are all well-sized and
well-equipped. Staff are friendly, befitting a small hotel, and
ready to see to your every need. Q 115 rooms (14 singles/
doubles €50-60, 1 apartment €70-80). Prices include all
taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTARULGW
Golden Tulip Bucharest
B-4, Calea Victoriei 166, MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4)
021 212 55 58, fax (+4) 021 212 51 21, reservation@
goldentulipbucharest.com, www.goldentulipbucharest.
com. Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both
Piata Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a
fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. Bright
and modern in design we think it’s suited best to business
travellers looking to get great value for their company’s dol-
lar. Q 83 rooms (81 singles/doubles €75-90, 2 junior suites
€115). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PJARU�
FLVGKW
Hello Hotels B-4, Calea Grivitei 143, tel. (+4) 0372
12 18 00, fax (+4) 0372 12 18 01, reservation@hel-
lohotels.ro, www.hellohotels.ro. Two stars never looked
so good. For your paltry amount of cash you are getting a lot
of hotel room here, complete with flat screen televisions and
mattresses thicker than many a five-star. Bathrooms are a
bit pokey but they are more than adequate, and as far as
value for money goes we think this is one of the best deals
in the city. Find the place a short walk from the station. Q
150 rooms (150 doubles €31-33). All taxes included. Prices
do not include breakfast (€5 per person). PTAR6�
ULGKW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Where to stay 41

Ibis Gara de Nord

A-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021
300 91 00, reservations.nord@ibishotels.ro, www.
ibishotels.ro. A hotel for more than 40 years this building
(and the whole area) was given a real lift when it became a
good old Ibis some several years ago now. Expect a room
a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the usual services, few
frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good value stay.
The name is not misleading: it is dead opposite the station.
Q 250 rooms (234 singles/doubles €49-54, 16 apart-
ments €79). Prices include all taxes. Breakfast not included.
PTHAR6ULGKW

Ibis Palatul Parlamentului

B-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel. (+4) 021 401 10 00, fax (+4)
021 402 28 98, reservations.parlament@ibishotels.ro,
www.ibishotels.ro. If you want a view of Casa Poporului then
this is perhaps the best place in Bucharest to come. Other
than that it is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them
from anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally located
if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking rooms and
very good staff. Q 161 rooms (154 singles/doubles €49-70,
7 apartments €89). Prices include all taxes. Breakfast not
included. PTHAR6ULGKW
Minerva
B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MVictoriei, tel. (+4)
021 311 15 55, fax (+4) 021 312 39 63, reservation@
minerva.ro, www.minerva.ro. It is really hard to knock
the Minerva so we will not even try. Having been around so
long it is entitled to a gold watch, it remains a great choice
for business people who pay their own bills: you get great
service, a good room, a dead-central location yet are only
asked for a fraction of what the five-stars charge. The oldest
Chinese restaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor.
Q 148 rooms (137 singles/doubles €88-110, 11 apart-
ments €122). Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast.
PHARFGKDW
Rembrandt C-5, Str. Smardan 11, tel. (+4) 021 313 93
15, fax (+4) 021 313 93 16, info@rembrandt.ro, www.
rembrandt.ro. Always full (reserve well in advance) you will
see why when you arrive. The Rembrandt is what happens
when people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bu-
charest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs - unsurprisingly
- to the same people). Luxurious without overdoing it, expect
to find original 1920s wooden floors and period furnishings
complimented by up-to-the-minute technology. The hotel
celebrated its sixth birthday in January 2011: long may it
go on. Q 16 rooms (7 single starting from €78, 9 doubles
starting from €90). Extra bed €25. Prices include all taxes,
VAT and breakfast. PTHARGKW

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

42 Where to stay

Centru Civic (Civic Centre)

Residence Club Palace Str. Odaii 137A, tel. (+4) 021
315 16 66/(+4) 0722 33 34 43, fax (+4) 031 101 66
48, reservations@residence.com.ro, www.residenceho-
tels.com.ro. It’s a fair distance from the city centre, but the
sense of luxury and the ‘get away from it all’ atmosphere of
this exclusive club is more than enough compensation. For
a start there is a big pool to enjoy, there are tennis courts,
a good breakfast included in the price and even conference
rooms. Ideal for a company retreat. Q 6 rooms (6 singles/
doubles €70-80). Prices include breakfast. VAT not included.
PTHARLGKCW
Tania-Frankfurt C-6, Str. Selari 5, tel. (+4) 021 319
27 58/(+4) 031 104 20 83, fax (+4) 021 319 27 56,
rezervari@taniahotel.ro, www.taniahotel.ro. This is a
cracking little place, in the very heart of Old Town, just a shake
or two away from the legendary Strada Lipscani. Rooms are
good value, bright and airy, and are furnished in a modern,
bright and airy style. The best is the split level sky room, with
its sky light and raised sleeping area. There’s free internet
for guests. Q 17 rooms (14 singles/doubles €39-49, 3
apartments €89). Prices include all taxes, VAT. Brakfast not
included. PTJHARGW
B/C/D/E-6, B-dul Unirii, P-ta Unirii. Of all the atrocities
commited on Romanian territory in the name of socialism,
few rank as monstrous as the destruction of an entire
district of the capital to make way for the Centru Civic,
or Civic Centre, in English. But that is what happened in
1980s Bucharest, as the entire Uranus district (and much
else) was completely razed to the ground, with little regard
for the people living there, or for the historical importance
of the buildings destroyed.
For example, the centrepiece of the Civic Centre,
Casa Poporului (see page 71), stands on the site of
the Republicii sports stadium, a wonderful art deco
construction built in the 1930s. A tiny part of terracing
remains in the park to the north of the Casa Poporului.
Apart from the stadium, numerous churches, houses,
hospitals and even a monastery were demolished to
make way for Casa Poporului, Piata Unirii and for the five
kilometre-long Bulevardul Unirii, which stand today as
little more than monuments to madness. The northern
end of Bulevardul Unirii (the original name of which was
Bulevardul Victoria Socialismului - Victory of Socialism
Boulevard) has become a bit of a ghost town, while Casa
Poporului is now the site of the Romanian parliament, and
is the city’s most popular attraction.

Short Term Rental

Professional Realty C-6, Str. George Valentin
Bibescu 33, bl, 10/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232
04 06/(+4) 0745 04 30 43, office@accommoda-
tion.com.ro, www.accommodation.com.ro. These
people have been offering great apartments in central
Bucharest since 1996: they were one of the first players
in the market, and are still the best. They have a range of
city-centre apartments, from studios to two-bedroomed
places, as well as a villa in Baneasa. What’s more, they
have someone on call 24 hours for any emergencies, maid
service twice a week and offer a variety of other services,
from city tours to laundry. Magic. Q Prices from €50-150.
VAT not included. A

RomVision Travel E-6, B-dul Burebista 1, bl. D15,

sc. 4, ap. 133, tel. (+4) 021 322 65 33/(+4) 0723
40 93 96, office@romvision.ro, www.romvision.ro. A
wide variety of apartments in the city centre of all types
and sizes, from small and simple to big and luxurious,
with something for all pockets. The most luxurious have
jacuzzis and fireplaces and are a genuine five-star expe-
rience. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Prices from €52/night. VAT not included.

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Where to stay 43

Heading to Brasov?
Classic Inn Str. Tibles 7-9, Brasov, tel. (+4) 0372
77 78 89/(+4) 0268 51 22 44, fax (+4) 0368 41
17 11, receptie@classic-inn.ro, www.classic-inn.
ro. Just about the best new hotel to open in Brasov
for some time. Lovely big rooms, classically (yes, really)
furnished with proper beds and lush carpets. Rooms are
also air-conditioned: not always the case in BV. Nice big
restaurant on site, and a proper lobby-bar with cracking
bar stools. Find it just past Piata Unirii in the heart of
Schei. Q 34 rooms (26 singles/doubles €49-69, 8
suites/apartments €89-119). Prices include all taxes and
breakfast. PHARFLGBKW

Kismet Dao Str. Neagoe Basarab 8, Brasov, tel.

(+4) 0722 43 96 54, (+4) 0268 51 42 96, www.
kismetdao.com. Long regarded as one of the best
hostels in Romania, the Kismet Dao is perfect choice
for budget-conscious travellers in Brasov. The location
is good, not far from the city centre, and the atmosphere
friendly. Dorms and bathrooms are clean and well-kept,
and there are private rooms for those who want a bit more
privacy. Q 3 doubles €30, 5 dorm rooms €9-11. Prices
include VAT and breakfast. ARLGW

Trianon B-5, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021

311 49 27/(+4) 021 311 49 28, fax (+4) 021 316 22
81, office@hoteltrianon.ro, www.hoteltrianon.ro. If loca-
tion really is everything then you can’t do much better than
this cracking place on Str. Cobalcescu, next to the Ministry
of Defence and opposite Cismigiu Park. The building is a
superb Secession renovation on a street that boasts some
extraordinary buildings: it is a shame not all are up to this
standard. Inside the rooms are simple, tastefully decorated
and offer excellent value for money. Bathrooms have either
a bath or a shower. Q 26 rooms (24 singles/doubles €80-
103, 2 apartments €123). Prices include all taxes, VAT and
breakfast. PTHAR6UGKW

Hostels & Villas

The Funky Chicken B-5, Str. Gen. Berthelot 63, tel.
(+4) 021 312 14 25, fax (+4) 021 610 22 14, funky-
chickenhostel@hotmail.com, www.funkychickenhostel.
com. Offering free cigarettes may appear to be a good idea
when the bulk of your clients are penniless students, but it
sounds like irresponsibility to us. Anyway, this wacky! crazy!
hostel will appeal to the kind of person who enjoys puns
like ‘clucking good atmosphere’ or being told that the staff
are ‘friendly but smelly.’ Students, who’d have them? Q 4
dormitory rooms (18 beds 40 lei/bed). Prices include all
taxes. LNGW

Vila 11 A-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, MGara

de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00/(+4) 0722 49 59 01,
vila11bb@hotmail.com. Located in a lovely 1920s house
close to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian
and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms,
dorm facilities and family suites available for backpackers and
families of all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners do
a great breakfast (included in the price) and are a wealth of
inside info when it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest.
Q (4 singles/doubles 80-120 lei, 1 triple 160 lei, 14 dorm
places 40 lei). Prices include VAT and breakfast. 6G

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

44 Restaurants
American
Champions B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott
Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17, www.
marriott.com. Still serving the very best burger in Bucharest
(you can choose one or design your own from an endless
choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by anyone we’ve ever
met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact, now we think of it, the
portions of everything here are enormous: even the children’s
servings are very healthy indeed. Besides the burgers you will
find a great selection of American pub food, as well as Tex
Mex treats and even mici. Famously good cocktails, and more
televisions showing sport than you could ever hope for. Find
it in the Marriott: up the stairs as you go in and to your right.
Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALBW
Hard Rock Cafe A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021
206 62 61, sales@hardrockcafe.ro, www.hardrock.
com/bucharest. Wham, Bam, thank you Maam. Americana
gone berserk in the very best sense of the word. Nobody
can knock this place and it is easy to see why. Feast on top
level, upmarket-burger bar and Tex-Mex food, served in huge
portions by perky Bond girls who have a smile for everyone.
Then sit back with great cocktails and listen to some very
good rock and roll supplied by some of Bucharest’s best live
acts. Seriously good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
01:00. €€€. PALEBSW
Argentinean
La Blanca C-4, Calea Dorobanti 18, MP-ta Romana, tel.
(+4) 021 619 07 35, www.lablanca.ro. In a magnificent
villa on Dorobanti, that has been given the million dollar treat-
ment and then some, this is a genuine Argentinean steak
house in the sense that the hardware is indeed shipped
in from the Pampas. There are all kinds of steaks to enjoy,
from striploin to T-Bone to rib-eye. There also have a few
non-beefy extras, such as scallops, king prawns and fresh
foie gras (which they grill perfectly). Fine wines from around
the world and sweet, tasty desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.
€€€€. PALBSW
Asian
The Gang Restaurant & Lounge C-3, Calea Florea-
sca 111-113, tel. (+4) 0721 51 22 91, club@thegang.
ro, www.thegang.ro. Very nice indeed. Though probably
more famous as being the top people’s club, The Gang also
has a restaurant serving some fabulous Asian/Fusion food
prepared by not one but two (count them: you will see them
as the kitchen is open, how refreshing) Nepalese chefs.
What’s more, though its location in Dorobanti/Floreasca
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Price Guide
(Based on a good meal with wine)
€€€€ Expensive €€€ Not cheap
(More than €30 per (€20-30 per person)
person)
€€ Middling € Cheap
(€10-€20 per person) (Less than €10 per person)
screams fite, the place itself is understated and decorated
with incredible restraint and good taste. Add in some eclectic
live music and you have a winner. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sun
12:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PALEBSW
British
The Trafalgar Pub
C-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel. (+4) 021 211 31 51,
www.trafalgarpub.eu. Popular with all sorts of expats
who have a regular rendezvous here, this place is a pub
and bistro in one, where you can get a decent meal for
little money while enjoying usually decent company. The
menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend the
Spinach and Stilton Pie - but best of all we like the ciorba
de vacuta - one of the best in the city, and the ciolan cu
varza - pork knuckle with cabbage and beans. Guinness
on draught at a decent price, Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
PALVEBSW
Chinese
Dragon House Minion B-4, Str. Piata Amzei 1, MP-ta
Romana, tel. (+4) 021 314 77 00, miniondragonhouse@
yahoo.com. This place is only notable for the appalling
standard of the food. It’s Chinese Jim, but not as we know it.
The worst Chinese we have ever had in this city. And that is
up against some fierce competition. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
€€€. PALS
Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, tel. (+4) 021
318 12 85/(+4) 0726 10 34 07, www.restaurantnan-
jing.ro. The Nan Jing’s claim to fame is that it’s the oldest
Chinese restaurant in Bucharest, having been founded in the
1960s. The food has a sort of Chinese-style to it, but even
though portions are large (and so they should be consider-
ing the prices) the nosh is no better than average. Popular
with those staying at the Minerva Hotel (the Nan Jing is
situated in the hotel’s lobby). Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€.
PALVBS
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants 45

Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 031 425

47 47/(+4) 0733 50 07 50, rezervari@orasul-interzis.ro,
www.orasul-interzis.ro. Bucharest’s first upmarket Chinese
restaurant combines all the cuisines of that great country and
delivers them to your plate with real aplomb. And with due
reason. This is the best Chinese food in Romania since, well,
just about ever. At least since John Wing left. The menu is
adventurous and features all sorts of dishes that place it way
above anywhere else in town, such as the sea cucumber and
mushroom soup, or the Chinese cabbage, served correctly
with dried oysters. To get the best out of this place though
round up three friends and go for one of the set menus.
Tremendous value. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00. Last food order
23:00. €€€€. PALVBSW

French
Bistrot David Contant D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 80, tel.
(+4) 021 310 47 65, david_contant_bistrot@yahoo.com.
Signature restaurant of the country’s top French chef. He’s been
here for a decade almost, at Heritage and at Bon Ton Palace,
and now has his own place. There is no menu per se, this is a
bistro after all: everything is chalked up on the blackboard, and
when he runs out of ingredients for one it gets wiped off. How
wonderful and correct. Prices are good, and there is a top value
set-lunch, fixed price lunch, which changes each day. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PASW

Boutique du Pain C-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, tel. (+4)

0728 44 33 00/(+4) 0720 08 37 70, boutiquedupain@
gmail.com, www.boutiquedupain.com. Everything you want
from a city-centre eatery and a lot more. This is in fact more
bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening meals
in fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of morning pastries is
the best in the city, with office workers going out of their way to
stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there is a range of sand-
wiches hard to beat anywhere else, and the small selection of
hot meals of an evening - the menu changes daily - are perfect
for a casual dinner. Serving great coffee and a magnificent hot
chocolate, we (and our kids!) love this place. QOpen 09:00 -
22:00. €€. PALBSW

Casa Vernescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 133, tel. (+4) 021

311 97 44/(+4) 0745 09 04 34, rezervari@casavern-
escu.ro, www.casavernescu.ro. Before the food, there
is the villa: built in the 1880s it is an eclectic mix of styles
that has been impressively preserved over the years. The
restaurant inside has quite a job living up to the surroundings,
but with the cooking in the hands of one of the country’s best
chefs, it does so with ease. Goose liver with truffles, sea
bass marinated in Pernod, chocolate and orange mousse:
mouthwatering combinations every one. Considered (not
without reason) to be expensive, this is a wonderful place to
eat and for what you get in terms of ambiance, service and
food, you are getting your money’s worth. QOpen 13:00 -
24:00. €€€€. POALESW

French Bakery Le Restaurant C-5, Str. Nicolae

Golescu 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 33 02/(+4) 021 310 33
06, info@frenchbakery.ro, www.frenchbakery.ro. It had
to happen. A French restaurant that actually delivers the
goods time after time yet does so in an atmosphere that begs
you to spend more time here. The menu features a number of
simple, new-wave French cuisine which - for this city - is very
well-priced. The tasty duck dishes stood out for us, as did the
desserts and the excellent wine list which - while featuring a
great list of French grape - for once acknowledges that the
New World can make decent wine too. In short, this place is
a mini-revolution on the Bucharest dining scene and worthy
of your time. QOpen 12:00 - 24:30. €€€. PAW

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

46 Restaurants
Ici et La C-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, tel. (+4) 0731 45
36 08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08, icietla43@yahoo.fr, www.
icietla.ro. As regular readers will know we are suckers for an
open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and watch
the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous homemade French
meal. They are rather proud of their smoked salmon here (and
rightly so) and the wine list features plenty of affordable grape.
Top it all off with the magnificent creme brulee. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PASW

La Cantine de Nicolai B-4, Str. Povernei 15-17, tel.

(+4) 0372 74 62 13/(+4) 0725 21 06 08, lacantinedeni-
colai@gmail.com, www.lacantinedenicolai.ro. Those who
know their food know that this place is one of the top ten
restaurants in the land. Beyond the Warhol prints on the walls
this is French du terroir, where simple yet perfect flavours
are allowed to breathe by a gifted chef who cooks for his
customers as though he is cooking for his best mates. It is
not cheap, but then dishes like scallops with mash potatoes
and a truffle and veal sauce never can be. Special. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALBSW

Jewish Bucharest
Bucharest Jewish Community (Centrul Comu-
nitar Evreiesc) C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 9-11, tel. (+4)
021 313 17 82, erwin@jewish.ro, www.jcc.ro. The
Jewish Community Centre organises all sorts of events
including film, dance, music and food evenings, as well
as various events for children. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Fri
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Holocaust Memorial B-6, Str. Ion Brezoianu/Str.

Ilfov, MEroilor. Unveiled in October 2009, Romania’s
Holocaust Memorial finally recognises the country’s role
in the genocide of Europe’s Jews (a role ignored by the
Communists, and minimized by subsequent governments).
“This monument is full of symbolism — hundreds of
thousands were killed who would have contributed to the
cultural and economic prosperity of Romania,” said Rabbi
Menachem HaCohen, Romania’s chief rabbi, at its opening.
Just 6,000 Jews remain in Romania.

Jewish History Museum (Muzeul de Istorie a

Evreilor din Romania) C-6, Str. Mămulari 3, tel.
(+4) 021 311 08 70. Seperate exhibitions display how
the once vibrant Jewish community of Bucharest used to
live. Housed in an old synagogue, the main display is in
fact a sculpture that mourns the 350,000 Romanian Jews
sent to their deaths at Auschwitz in 1944 and 1945 (Nobel
winner Elie Wiesel was one of the few survivors of this late
deportation). QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Fri 09:00 - 12:00, Sun
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat. Admission free.

The Great Synagogue C-6, Str. Vasile Adamache

11. Bucharest’s Great Synagogue was built from 1845
-1846 by the Ashkenazi Polish-Jewish community. With an
impressive mixture of baroque and rococo architectural
styles, the Great Synagogue remains the most important
Jewish building in the country. The synagogue hosts an
excellent exhibition dedicated to Romania’s Jewish martyrs,
and to Dr. Moses Rosen, who served as Romania’s Chief
Rabbi for 30 years until his death in 1994. QOpen 08:30 -
15:00, Fri, Sun 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sat. Morning Prayer:
Sun-Fri 08:00, Sat 09:30, Evening Prayer: Sun-Fri 19:00.

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Restaurants 47

Fusion
Avalon B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson
Grand Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30.
Every time we visit (and we visit as often as we can) we find
something new and interesting - and usually inventive - on
the menu, and a good wine to go with our meal. The Sunday
Brunch is excellent value and a good introduction to the place
for those on a bit of a budget. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30 (except
Sat, Sun 06:30 - 11:00), 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:30. Sunday
Brunch 12:00 - 16:00. €€€€. PAGBW

Balthazar C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 2, tel. (+4) 021

212 14 60, www.balthazar.ro. Yes, we know that the now
legendary Balthazar is by no means cheap, but the service,
tableware, range of food and above all outstanding cooking
make it a joy to dine here. And whisper it, but it should be said
that if you lay off the imported wines, Balthazar is not all that
more expensive than other places not fit to lace its boots.
QOpen 12:30 - 24:30. €€€€. PALBSW
Loft Lounge C-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 55-57, tel.
(+4) 0756 38 56 38, www.loftlounge.ro. It might be
too fashionable for some tastes, but the truth is the food is
amongst the best in the land, cooked by perhaps the best
chef in the land. It’s not just us who say so either: ask anybody
in the city who knows heir food and you get the same reply:
it’s brilliant. Inventive and magnificent food (seafood domi-
nates), cooked to perfection. The squid served with risotto,
for example: it sounds so simple yet it’s a taste sensation. Not
cheap of course, but worth the cost. Q Open 13:00 - 17:00,
19:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. PALESW

German
Die Deutsche Kneipe C-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4)
021 233 94 62, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Really, one
of our favourite places in Bucharest, now as ever (and it has
been around for more than a decade). Serving giant por-
tions of great German sausages (all made on the premises)
as well as pork knuckles, kraut and the like, they keep the
prices down and their punters very happy. You usually need
a reservation at weekends. Good place for a simple pint
of German beer too. QOpen 15:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun.
€€. PNB
Greek
International
18 Lounge by the Embassy A-1, P-ta Presei Libere 3-5,
tel. (+4) 0733 50 14 01, www.18lounge.ro. Lunch or dinner
with a view? This is the place to come people. On the 18th floor
of one of the newest office buildings in the city, this place doesn’t
need to serve decent food to attract clients: fortunately, it does.
More than just a restaurant though the lunch is a great deal, and
late in the evening it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to hang
out. It is also a self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much like
its sister locations in the centre of town). QOpen 10:30 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. PALVBSW

Santorini E-6, B-dul Decebal 17, MP-ta Muncii, tel. (+4)
021 326 80 98, www.restaurant-santorini.ro. Long one
of the best ethnic eats in the city, this place was renovated
recently by the new management and owners. Santorini’s
extensive menu - from a new chef - offers a typical selection
of Greek and Mediterranean food, with plenty of lamb and fish.
Usually busy with a happy crowd of punters it is a great choice
for the undecided and for groups. Live music some nights a
bonus.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PALEBSW
Indian
Karishma
D-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021 252 51 57,
www.karishma.ro. This place, by warrant of its bits and
pieces layout, is perhaps the closest thing you will find to a
classic British/Indian curry house in Bucharest. No less than
three Indian chefs cook up the treats out back, with the lamb
rogan josh - ordered extra hot - never failing to hit the spot. In
fact, we counted no fewer than 10 lamb dishes on the menu,
a rare treat in these parts where the raw material is so hard
to find. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. €€€. PALVS
Arcade B-2, Str. I. Cantacuzino 8, MAviatorilor, tel.
(+4) 021 260 29 60, www.restaurantarcade.ro. Other
places may come and go, but this one has been first class for
well over seven years now. Every year they come up with new,
sharper menus (the current one stars a glorious duck confit)
meaning you have no excuse not to go as often as you can
afford it. The lovely, high-ceilinged indoor dining room is a joy in
which to dine.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PALBS
Balkan Bistro C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel
Continental), tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00/(+4) 0372 01
03 16,www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Very interesting
indeed. A a restaurant brave enough to admit that food in
this part of the world is truly Balkan, and that the edges
between Serbian, Turkish, Greek, Romanian and Bulgarian
food can sometimes be very blurred indeed. You will find a
rich range of dishes on offer: all presented on the menu in
their original language. Recently reopened after a refit, we
had yet to try the new menus as we went to press: be sure
that we would have done so before the next issue goes to
press. See you there. Q Open 12:30-15:30, 19:00-23:00.
€€€. PALGW

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

48 Restaurants
Barka Saffron A-2, Str. Av. Sănătescu 1, tel. (+4) 021
224 10 04/(+4) 0745 00 36 60. We have been coming
here since the last century, when there was precious little
choice in Bucharest for people wanting something a little
different; a little more spicy. Now there is plenty of choice but
we still trot up to Barka whenever we can. On our last visit we
went for the lamb with spinach in tomato sauce which was as
good as we had hoped. The onion bhajis remain Bucharest’s
best. First class cocktail list. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€.
PALEBSW
Chez Marie C-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, MP-ta Romana,
tel. (+4) 031 107 20 33/(+4) 0730 34 48 10, office@
chezmarie.ro, www.chezmarie.ro. A wider variety of dishes
you are unlikely to find in a Bucharest restaurant, and most of
the time everything on the menu is available. We have always
stuck with the beef dishes: both the steak with gorgonzola
Bucharest In Your Pocket
and the beef stroganoff are good efforts, but if you simply
want a ceafa de porc with fries, they will rustle that up too.
Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice.  QOpen
11:00 - 24:00.  €€€. PALEBSW
Concerto Fine Dining
C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel Continental), tel.
(+4) 0372 01 03 05, info@grandhotelcontinental.ro,
www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Oh yes. The fine dining
stakes in Bucharest got notched up even further with the
appearance of the Grand Continental’s showcase dining
room, a match for any other in the city. This is the place to
come for highly creative nouvelle cuisine, accompanied by a
long list of the world’s finest wines (from Romania, France,
Italy, Spain, South Africa, North and South America). The
setting is ‘to die for’, and the staff are knowledgeable about
both food and wine and will talk you through everything on
the menu. Bucharest’s gourmands are now indeed spoilt for
choice. Q Open 12:00-16:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Sun.
€€€. PALW
Dacia Felix
B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson BLU), tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. The
best thing about this place is that the cracking breakfast (the
best in the city), which is open to allcomers: simply turn up
before 10:30, pay your money and fill up for the day (we would
have liked to have stayed for the day such was the wealth of
goodies on offer, but they had to get ready for lunch...). The
Dacia-Felix is also the setting for the Radisson’s excellent
Sunday Brunch which, though it goes on for four hours, is
not long enough to savour everything on offer. Bags of pink
sparkling wine too... Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 -
11:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30. €€€. PAGW
Doncafe Brasserie B-3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746
22 24 44, doncafe@clicknet.ro, www.doncafe-brasserie.
ro. Magnificent place just off Piata Dorobanti. Open early for
breakfast (they do a decent English fry and delicious pain
chocolat) it’s busy throughout the day, catering to lunching
ladies and business types as well as a trendy crowd in the
evenings. Great salads, a good range of homemade pasta
(and we mean homemade: it is put together on the premises),
a terrific osso bucco and a divine cheese cake are our fave
dishes from the menu. You go pick your own. QOpen 08:30
- 24:00. €€. PALBSW
Gargantua C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 69, tel. (+4) 021 211
40 41/(+4) 0722 70 25 60, rezervari@restaurantgar-
gantua.ro, www.restaurantgargantua.ro. Bright and airy
place that gloriously lets the light in through its huge windows.
Fine food, including a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade,
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

an outstanding chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck
dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the
location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the corner of
Stradas Calderon and Verona. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. €€€.
PALVEBSW
La Belle Epoque
B-2, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 230 07 70, office@
labelleepoque.ro, www.labelleepoque.ro. A big, bright
and open plan cafe on Radu Beller (Dorobanti) branded as
a Belgian beer cafe. And there is no doubt about the beer:
there are plenty of Belgian beers present and correct, as
well as a few Belgian touches in and around the bar. The food
is not really Belgian, though as most people now seem to
use this place as a (good) boozer rather than a place to eat,
nobody seems to mind too much. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.
€€. PAISW
La Brasserie A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza),
tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, bucharest@crowneplaza.ro.
Redesigned and reinvented, La Brasserie is now less about
fine dining (pop over to The Vineyard for that) and more about
good quality, simple food for all the family. The menu is avail-
able buffet-style or a-la-carte, and makes a great choice for
families or groups on the run. The wine list remains a work
of art and the atmosphere is now cosier than ever. QOpen
06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 177 lei/person,
children under 6 years old free, 6 - 12 years old 88.50 lei. €€€.
PAEGSW
Le Theatre
B-5, Str. George Enescu 2-4, MP-ta Victoriei, tel. (+4)
021 318 28 74/(+4) 0733 97 64 71, office@letheatre.
ro, www.letheatre.ro. A bit of food with your jazz? Or a bit
of jazz with your food? There is always usually something
happening at Le Theatre, and even if there isn’t, the food is
enough to keep you here for most of the evening. The lamb
chops we ate were terrific: pink and tender, and they went
down well with a plate of fresh spinach. Great atmosphere,
good people, a decent choice for dinner. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. €€€. PALEBSW
Omnivore’s Dilemma B-4, Calea Victoriei 214, tel.
(+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro. Brilliant! Tiny
place serving the best cooked lunch in central Bucharest.
There are just a few dishes to choose from each day: ask the
staff what’s good, hand over a pittance and try and bag a
seat at one of the tables (there are only three or four). You can
take away if there is no space. The kind of place Bucharest
needs loads more of. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €€.
PALEBSW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants 49
The Harbour
B-4, P-ta Amzei 10-22, tel. (+4) 021 319 72 57/(+4)
0724 38 86 86, office@harbour.ro, www.harbour.ro. A
top location, in Piata Amzei, with food to match, as well as
friendly and efficient staff. The atmosphere is relaxing, the
food better than average, though the real joy of this place is
its view to the market. We came here for lunch recently and
were stunned by how many foreigners were eating here: it
must be one of the most popular tourist and visitor spots
in town. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. €€.
PALEBSW
The Vinyard A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza),
tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, reservations@crowneplaza.
ro. The feather in the Crowne Plaza’s cap, this is now the
hotel’s flagship restaurant, a work of great detail where
everything is lovingly prepared by Exec Chef Ashlie Dias and
his highly experienced team. Based around Mediterranean
cuisine you can always expect to find something exotic and a
bit different on the daring menu, and a number of the dishes
require waiter or audience - that’s you, diner -participation.
An indulgent treat. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
€€€€. PAEGSW
Times (Golden Tulip Times Hotel) E-6, B-dul Decebal
19, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.timesevents.ro. The
prawn spring rolls we ate here were just about the crispiest,
lightest and tastiest we have come across in Bucharest.
We couldn’t make better at home (and we tried). There are
plenty of other treats on a varied international (with a hint
of Romanian) menu here too. This is a real surprise of a
restaurant: do not let the hotel location put you off. Note the
last kitchen order is at 22:30. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€.
PALGW
June - July 2011
50 Restaurants
Uptown Bar & Grill B-3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021
231 40 77, reservations@uptown.ro, www.uptown.ro.
Uptown indeed. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest part
of the city, the city’s wealthiest people come here to eat. The
real draw is the enclosed terrace which means you can eat al
fresco even when it’s snowing outside. The food is good, a mix
of Italian-esque and modern European dishes, which share a
menu with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap but value
for money very high. Make sure you reserve well in advance or
turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the terrace.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALB
Italian
Aquarium C-4, Str. Alecu Russo 4, tel. (+4) 021 211
28 20, www.restaurantaquarium.ro. Since 1994 it’s been
the same story: good but not extraordinary Italian food and a
swish, bright interior; both make Aquarium worth a visit. It can
be a little showy, with high-powered individuals often choosing
to hold court here, but that shouldn’t put you off what now
has to be classed as a Bucharest legend. Rather expensive.
QOpen 12:30 - 23:30. €€€€. PALW
Caffe Citta B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),
tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36/(+4) 021 311 90 00, caffecitta.
bucharest@radissonblu.com, www.caffe-citta.ro. Styled
as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/bistro the emphasis
here is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto with saf-
fron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes
and all done to perfection. The drinks menu is a bit special:
go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it sounds) or try any
number of great wines, all available by the glass. Keep the
kids happy with the freshly made ice cream. QOpen 11:30 -
23:30. €€€€. PALGBW
Capricciosa B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4)
021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 47 99, capricciosa_res-
taurant@yahoo.com. A bustling Italian restaurant and piz-
zeria whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even
do truffles and, let’s face it, you don’t see those every day on
a menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the journey uptown
for both the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates
that top restaurants don’t have to be fitze. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. €€€. PALBW
Casa di David B-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232
47 15, contact@casadidavid.ro, www.casadidavid.ro.
You can say what you like about this high-class place (and
most party people in Bucharest have some kind of opinion),
but to us it remains a very nice place to spend the evening,
with its big windows and simple furnishings. The food is
ristorante Italian, and very good, with enough fish dishes
to make it appealing to sea food lovers, and though the big
screen TV is annoying: that’s the only fault we have. Staff
are good and the wine list a cracker. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00.
€€€€. PALEBSW
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Cavalli Alati C-4, P-ta Romana 2, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 021 311 00 58/(+4) 076 565 65 65, cavalli.alati@
yahoo.com, www.cavallialati.ro. If you thought Piata
Romana was just a traffic jam, think again. This place is on
Piata Romana and it is really rather wonderful. With a great
terrace and incredible interiors (check out the artwork on the
walls) this is a restaurant, cafe and lounge well worth your
time. Serves a good range of Italian food, including a very
nice agnello al forno, the prices are very good considering
the quality of the food. They also open early for breakfast
(and have a great breakfast menu). Pizza, coffee, cocktails
and much else besides, we could live here. QOpen 09:00 -
24:00. €€€. PAW
Cucina B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bu-
charest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www.
jwmarriott.ro. Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott
is a wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find probably
the best (and perhaps only) swordfish steak in the city. The
Bucharest‘s Historic Churches
Creţulescu Church (Biserica Creţulescu)
C-5, Calea Victoriei 47, MUniversitate. Probably
the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest. Bi-
serica Creţulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache
Creţulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian
humanitarian Constantin Brâncoveanu. The outstanding
paintings on the entrance are original, the work of an
unknown artist, while the interior icons were added in
1859 by Gheorghe Tattarescu, widely considered one of
Romania’s finest ever executor of religious art. Greatly
damaged during the fighting of the revolution of December
1989, the church was recently restored to its full glory,
and is a must. The bust which stands in front of it, by
the way, is of Corneliu Coposu, a leading liberal politician
of the 1940s who spent many years imprisoned during
the communist period.
New St. George’s Church (Biserica Sf. Gheor-
ghe Nou) C-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe. The largest of the
churches built in Bucharest during the reign of Constantin
Brâncoveanu (and he built a few!), the New St. George’s
Church was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a
wonder of the age, having been designed by an Italian,
Vaseleli, and decorated by the great Romanian maestros
of the times: the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and
the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the
church was renovated from 1852-3 by the Spanish archi-
tect Villacrosse (who gave his name to the famous pas-
sage in Old Town). At the same time, new and outstanding
interior murals were added by Marian Popp. Brâncoveanu
(Romania’s renaissance man) is himself allegedly buried
under the church, in an unmarked grave.
Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarhia) C-6/7, Str.
Dealul Mitropoliei. Set atop one of the city’s few hills,
known as Mitropoliei, the Patriarchal Cathedral has been
the centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since the
seventeeth century. Built to a design based on the Curtea
de Arges, near Pitesti, it has undergone a number of
facelifts, but the overwhelming majority of the cathedral’s
structure is the original, built between 1654 and 1658.
The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in
1698, and restored in 1958. Next to the church - and
closed to the public - is the Patriarchal Palace, residence
of Daniel Ciobotea, the recently elected Patriarch of the
Romanian Orthodox Church. It was built in 1708.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
52 Restaurants
veal cutlets are incredibly expensive but worth every penny,
while for a simple reminder of great cooking and intense fla-
vours, the pumpkin and goose liver soup is a masterpiece. No
fewer than 19 good Italian reds grace the wine menu. Q Open
12:30 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PALW
Modigliani Pasta/ Carne C-5, Str. Batistei 9 (Hotel
InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48
06, modigliani@interconti.ro. The InterContinental’s new
showpiece restaurant is a million miles from what has gone be-
fore. Now boasting a fantastic new chef, Andrea Aiudi (brought
here from the InterContinental San Francisco), the Italian stakes
get ratcheted up another notch. All the pasta is made fresh,
the steaks are of the finest Argentine beef or Romanian pork,
and the wine is a selection of the best the world has to offer.
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PALW
Ristorante Il Calcio A-3, Str. Clucerului 7, tel. (+4)
0729 57 48 02, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. As opposed to
Trattoria Il Calcio? Yes. For this is a ristorante, a notch up
from trattoria. Expect a more refined menu and surround-
ings, but the same warm, friendly service and great value (if
pricier) food you’ve come to expect from the Il Calcio boys.
This first Il Calcio restaurant is in a lovely house on Strada
Clucerului, quickly becoming something of a magnet for great
places to eat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
€€€. PALBW
Roberto’s & Roberto’s on La Strada C-5, Str. Epis-
copiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37
77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21. It’s back. After a complete refit
Roberto’s is bigger and better than ever. It now boasts an
open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a private dining
room. The food is simple, classical, with the menu boasting
Bucharest In Your Pocket
the best dishes from a number of Italian regions. The Gualtiero
Machesi risotto with gold leaf is amazing, and the baccala’
with mash sensational. In a nutshell, it’s worth every penny:
this is one of the top five restaurants in Bucharest. The ter-
race - still the best in the land - has a slightly different menu,
and includes lighter dishes.Q Open 06:00 - 23:00. €€€€.
PTALEBW
Trattoria Don Vito Ristorante
C-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.
trattoriadonvito.ro. They get a lot right here, not least
the bean soup that is a meal in itself. Excellent salads,
and the seafood-packed signature Don Vito pasta was
memorable. There is pizza too, the sweets are delicious
and the place itself is decked out well without overdoing it.
Nice courtyard, interior terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€.
PALBSW
Trattoria Il Calcio I C-4, Str. Mendeleev 14, MP-ta
Romana, tel. (+4) 0722 13 42 99, www.trattoriailcalcio.
ro. A football-themed Italian trattoria with strangely appealing
murals of scenes from important matches in seasons past.
Offering very good trattoria food, decent pizzas and one of the
best salad bars in Bucharest, you will come, love it, and come
again. Prices are extraordinarily cheap and the queues outside
at lunchtime speak volumes. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. Also at (I-4) Str. Delea Veche 36, tel. (+4) 0726
01 03 83; (C-3) Calea Floreasca 118-120, tel (+4) 0728 63 99
06. €€. PAVSW
Trattoria Il Calcio II C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel.
(+4) 0732 52 81 40, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. What we
have here is the best use of perhaps the best terrace space
in the city. As with the original Il Calcio, service can be a bit
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants 53

hit and miss but the good - if not outstanding - Italian food at
fantastic prices makes this a good default choice for dinner.
Stick to the pizzas, salads, have a little patience and you will
love the place. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
€€. PALBSW
Japanese
Benihana B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson
Grand Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30,
www.benihana.ro. With cracking new menus specially put
together for the winter, this is a great time to come and try
the vast array of terrific Japanese specialities on offer at
Benihana. A staple on the Bucharest dining scene for some
years now, it is a tremendous mix of the new, the daring and
the traditional. Expert chefs and staff will explain Japanese
cuisine to newcomers, and the chances are you will want to
come more than once. Q Open 12:00 - 14:45, 19:00 - 22:30.
Closed Sun. Sushi bar open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:30,
Sun 19:00 - 22:30. €€€€. PTAULS
Mediterranean
Cerisiers A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 0722
59 98 05, www.restaurantcerisiers.ro. We attended a
Christening at this place recently, and were blown away by the
quality of the food: really outstanding. The seafood and fish dishes
are the best of what’s on the menu, but there is more than that
to enjoy: try the cracking salads or the beef carpaccio. As for the
rooftop terrace, there is no more romantic place to eat in the city.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. PALBW
Mexican/Tex Mex
El Torito C-4, Str. Iancu Capitanu 30, tel. (+4) 021
252 66 88/(+4) 0728 17 60 59, eltorito@eltorito.ro,
www.eltorito.ro. Tex-Mex as it should be: spicy, tasty but
free of frills. Expect the biggest and best burrittos in the city,
topped with lashings of tangy cheese; sizzlingly hot fajitas, no

Maiko Str. Grigore Gafencu 27-29, tel. (+4) 021 233

26 33, manager@restaurantmaiko.ro, www.restaurant-
maiko.ro. It’s brilliant. Whoever thought a building in the
French Village could look as good as this? Put simply people,
you need to come and eat here. Fast, efficient waitresses
in kimonos greet you as you walk in, and generally make
you feel like a star. There’s all kinds of sushi, full tepanyaki
(as in fellas cooking on a hotplate right in front of you). You
will want to taste everything, and we can guarantee that
one visit will not be enough. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€.
PALBSW

Lebanese
Chez Toni C-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04/
(+4) 0740 00 78 78, office@cheztoni.ro, www.cheztoni.
ro. Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, away-from-it-all setting
of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club. All your Middle Eastern
favourites are here, from Antaki, Adana and Beiti kebabs to
sujuk (those tangy, spicy little sausages) and simple yet
perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of other fresh fish). Ev-
erything is cooked by the resident Lebanese chef. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PALEBSW

Piccolo Mondo A-3, Str. Clucerului 9, tel. (+4) 021

222 57 55, www.piccolomondo.ro. Lebanese food that
is both filling (with plenty for vegetarians to choose from) and
well made. Kebabs are one of the chef’s strong points, and
are very tasty indeed. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke
on a hookah pipe. Always packed so reserve a table. QOpen
11:30 - 01:00. €€€. PABSW

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

54 Restaurants

For details of restaurants, cafes,

bars and clubs in Bucharest’s
Old Town (Lipscani), see the
feature on pages 74-87.
fewer than eight types of taco and - best of all - that splendid
Mexican staple so often forgotten or passed over as being
dull: cream of corn soup. The super nachos are worth trying
too: filled with ground beef the portion is big enough to serve
as a main course. In fact, beware: all the portions here are
supersized. Though you would be a fool to forego a nosh here,
if you just fancy a drink at the bar nobody seems to mind. Let
the margaritas and the mojitos flow. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
€€. PAGW

Modern European
Cafe Athenee
C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), MP-ta
Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.
com. Joy. The village pub has reopened and is better than
ever. First off, you can now see out of the windows: the dreary
net curtains of yore have gone. Completely redesigned, it is
more open, feels bigger than before, and you can now sit at
the bar. The menu has been jigged - a fantastic shepherd’s
pie added - but they have sensibly kept the burger: always
one of the best in the city. And there is also now a bites menu
of substantial finger food for executive snacking, and a bigger,
wider range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever. A winner
that shoots and scores yet again. Q Open 08:00-24:00.
€€€€. PAEB

Embassy C-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03

00, contact@embassy-club.ro, www.embassy-club.ro.
Boasting probably the biggest terrace in the city centre, you
will need to reserve a table if you want one of the comfy sofas.
Popular with a wealthy crowd, it is a little difficult to see at
first what the attraction - beyond the brilliant location - is.
Service can be slow, and the food - with one exception - is
only average. The exception is the burger, which is really rather
smashing and one of the city’s best. The place grows on your
though: chances are you come more than once. QOpen
10:00 - 03:00. €€€. PAEBSW

La Mandragora C-4, Str. Mendeleev 29, tel. (+4) 021

319 75 92, www.lamandragora.ro. Interesting name. The
mandragora, as you will of course know, is a nightshade that
was commonly used as an anesthetic in ancient Greece. Well
this restaurant is not, I can tell you, an anesthetic. It is in fact
a wide-awake, sublime new restaurant that has started with
a loud bang. Inventive food - including a number of excellent
fish dishes - created by a German chef, plush surroundings
and well-trained staff make it a certain success. We just hope
standards will remain this high. Q Open 18:00 - 23:00, Sat
18:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. €€€€. PABW

Prime Steaks & Seafood B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81

(Radisson BLU), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, primerestau-
rant.bucharest@radissonblu.com, www.prime-restau-
rant.ro. Boasting a new menu (put together by Executive
Chef Bernd Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen here
since Prime opened more than two years ago), Bucharest’s
best restaurant just got better. Now serving the finest fillet
steak in the world (the Irish Hereford Prime - which we can tell
you, as we have eaten it, is amazing), we can also recommend

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Restaurants 55

the duet of foie gras with raspberry mousse and caremelized

pineapple, the grilled scallops and the lobster bisque. (And just
about everything else). It’s genuinely amazing this place, and
worth every last penny. Q Open 12:30 - 15:00; 18:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 18:30 -23:00. €€€€. PALG

Pizzerias
Horoscop C-7, B-dul Dimitrie Cantemir 2, MUnirii, tel.
(+4) 021 335 72 65, fax (+4) 021 335 40 78, www.
restauranthoroscop.ro. One of the original Bucharest pizza
parlours, this place has been around since before we began
publishing Bucharest In Your Pocket; that’s a long time. Still
serving thin, crispy pizzas, alongside the best calzone in Bucha-
rest, it is a winner worth seeking out. Find it in the same place
as the Horoscop hotel, next to the Harp on the southern side
of Piata Unirii. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €€. PALB

Pizza Hut C-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 15-19, MUniver-

sitate, tel. (+4) 021 314 50 32, www.pizzahut.ro. Popular
at all hours of the day, the American-style pizza here is just as
you would find anywhere in the world. With its non-smoking
section and child-friendly staff and atmosphere, Pizza Hut is
a great place to bring kids. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. Also at (I-3) Calea Mosilor 219, tel. (+4) 021
210 60 33; (C-2) Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson
Grand Plaza) tel. (+4) 021 201 17 55 and many other locations
around the city. €€. PAGBSW

Sale E Pepe B-5, Str. Luterana 3, tel. (+4) 021 315 89

89, www.saleepepe.ro. Lovely little cafe and pizzeria slap
bang in the centre of the city. (Luterana is the one-way street
behind the Radisson). The smells as you walk past beg you
to come in and taste the deliciously thin and delicately crispy
pizzas as they come hot off the stove, covered in lashings
of fresh toppings. Super-friendly staff, and incredibly cheap
prices. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €.
PAVS

Romanian
Bistro Atheneu C-5, Str. Episcopiei 3, tel. (+4) 021 313
49 00, www.bistronet.ro. Also known as the thinking man’s
La M*ma. If you want very good Romanian food cooked slowly
and with great care then this is where to come. There is no
menu as such: simply choose one of the delicious specials
chalked up on a blackboard that the pretty waitresses will
bring to your table. There is usually a good ciorba or soup,
and more often than not a lamb dish: if they have the lamb
stew when you visit, make sure you order it, it’s great. Reser-
vations usually needed Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PALESW

Bistro Jaristea B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 5, tel. (+4) 021

650 50 00, office@bistrojaristea.ro, www.bistrojaristea.
ro. From the people who have long brought you some of the
city’s finest Romanian food comes this place, a contempo-
rary eatery for friends. Duck breast with sweet cabbage,
smoked fish and potato salad, baked carp with garlic and
mamaliga are just a few of the great dishes you will find
on the menu. Add in a bright, breezy setting, good service,
visinata by the glass and you have a terrific new place to
eat and spend most of the evening. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
€€ PALEBSW

Bucatarasul cel Dibaci C-6, Str. Olteni 3, tel. (+4) 021

320 32 69/(+4) 0722 66 33 79, comenzi@bucatarasu.
ro, www.bucatarasul.ro. Keep it simple and let the food
do the talking. This place is a smallish restaurant, painted
bright white with colour supplied by some rather fetching

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

56 Restaurants
art on the walls. And the food of course, which is sublime:
Romanian food done well and taken to new levels of inven-
tiveness, a notch above your standard Romanian eatery.
The signature dish, the Tigaia Bucatarasul cel Dibaci, is
a great mix of meats and vegetables, served in a huge por-
tion with mamaliga. Magnificent. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri
10:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. €€€.
PALVBSW
Burebista Vanatoresc C-5, Str. Batistei 14, MUni-
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 211 89 29, www.restaurant-
burebista.ro. The smell of the wooden fixtures and fittings
could convince you that you’re in the countryside, not metres
away from the city centre. Portions are good, the food tastes
super (good smoked meats, such as the smoked sausage
and white beans, and lovely fresh sarmale) and all have a
personal touch to their taste. Prices are more than reason-
able. The live, loud folk band add to the party atmosphere.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVEB
Casa Doina B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67
17, restaurant@casadoina.ro, www.casadoina.ro. Alma
mater of Romanian restaurants, an integral part of the city’s
rich tapestry. This classy place pulls in the cream of Bucharest
society, served by charming, splendid waiters in smart dress.
The food is superb, and in a city where standards rise only to
fall so often, Casa Doina can be considered a paragon of con-
sistency. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAEBSW
Casa Gorjana B-5, Str. Domnita Anastasia 13, tel. (+4)
021 315 64 29, www.casagorjana.ro. One of the stock
Romanian restaurants that has been packing in visitors for
years, there is little gimmick here (beyond the rather wooden
entrance) except good food at great prices. Indeed, if there
is almost one thing you can be sure with when it comes to
Bucharest In Your Pocket
For details of restaurants, cafes,
bars and clubs in Bucharest’s
Old Town (Lipscani), see the
feature on pages 74-87.
standard Romanian restaurants, it is that you will never have
to pay much money. Try the papanasi (donuts) with thick
cream here: almost a meal in itself and perfect for fuelling
up before exploring Old Town. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€.
PAES
Casa Veche B-5, Str. George Enescu 15-17, tel. (+4)
021 312 58 16, www.casaveche.ro. Best known as being
the first ever proper pizzerie in Bucharest, there is far, far more
to Casa Veche than just pizza. It serves a wide range of dishes,
including great big salads, all in a picture-perfect setting just
off the city’s main street. The walled garden/ courtyard is
delightful on warm, sunny days, but can be extremely popular:
you will generally need a reservation. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00.
€€. PAVBSW
Corso Brasserie & Terrace C-5, B-dul Nicolae
Bălcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/
ic/1/en/hotel/BUHHA/dining. Breakfast, lunch or dinner
on the boulevard; Magheru, that is. If this place doesn’t oc-
cupy the best people-watching spot in the whole of the city,
then we don’t know where does. The menu has gone more
local of late: you can now enjoy exemplary sarmale and ma-
maliga here, as well as a brilliant iahnie de fasole with ciolan
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

(pork knuckle with beans to you and me). Also still home of
the best brunch in town. Q Open 06:30 - 23:00. Sunday
Brunch 12:00 - 16:00. 175lei/person, children under 6 free,
6-12 years old half price. €€€. PTALW
Hanu’ Berarilor Interbelic B-6, Str. Poenaru Bordea 2,
tel. (+4) 021 336 80 09, www.hanuberarilor.ro. This place
is the new ‘must visit’ restaurant in Bucharest. Housed in the
former Casa Bucur (a place you could write a book about) it is
a very good Romanian restaurant serving the kind of food you
only usually get in people’s homes. Seriously: only in two or
three other places in Bucharest will you find carnati de oaie
(mutton sausages) or bors de peste. If you are feeling really
hungry go for the platou mioritic: a huge plate of meaty treats.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PJAESW
La Cocosatu
Str. Neagoe Voda 52 A, tel. (+4) 021 232 87 96, (+4)
0726 22 44 44, office@lacocosatu.ro, www.lacocosatu.
ro. We put out an appeal on our Facebook fan page for the
best mici in the city. The response was immediate and
overwhelming: Cocosatu’ uber alles. A bit of a trek from the
city centre (it is just around the corner from Baneasa Airport)
the mici here are indeed the best we have tasted: big, tangy,
made with loads of mutton and a few spices for extra kick.
The ultimate Bucharest mici experience, and all at peanuts
prices. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. €. PALBS
La Mama C-3, Str. Barbu Văcărescu 3, tel. (+4) 021
212 40 86, www.lamama.ro. Not exactly a Romanian
McDonald’s - after all, this is hardly fast food - though this
is a chain of cheap restaurants which all look the same and
all serve the same food. Expect big portions of standard
Romanian food - they do good mici and the musaka is usually
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants 57
OK - but nothing too adventurous, as well as cheap beer and
a fight for a table: these restaurants are very popular and
the busiest locations require reservations. QOpen 10:00 -
24:00. Also at (I-3) Str. Delea Veche 51, tel. (+4) 021 320 52
13, (+4) 0723 29 28 46; (C-4) Str. Episcopiei 9, tel. (+4) 021
312 97 97, 0721 52 62 62; (F-3) Centrul Comercial Feeria,
tel. (+4) 021 319 42 46, (+4) 0729 52 62 62; (E-6) P-ta Alba
Iulia 2, tel. (+4) 021 320 20 00, (+4) 0728 85 38 53; (B-6)
Spl. Independentei 210 - 210B (Orhideea), tel. (+4) 021 220
33 95, (+4) 0724 50 56 05. €. PAVBSW
La Taifas
B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4) 021 212 77 88,
www.bistronet.ro. The thinking man’s La Mama. La Taifas
means ‘having a chat’ and that’s exactly what you and your
friends will feel like doing at this tres jolie venue. We remain
convinced that the original venue behind the Hilton on Str.
Episcopiei was better, but the new location is spacier, and
hosts more regular musical accompaniments. The food is
great, and booking is still essential. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
€€. PLEBS
Locanta Jaristea B-6, Str. George Georgescu 50-52,
tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38/(+4) 0721 96 19 36, stabili-
ment@jaristea.ro, www.jaristea.ro. This is that rarity in
Bucharest (and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian
restaurant. The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated
dining rooms, service and choice of high quality food will con-
vince you of that. This is one of very few places in Romania
where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note that
you will need to phone ahead and ask then to start preparing
it a day in advance) and sample some of the best vintage
wines Romania has ever produced. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.
€€€€. PALEW
June - July 2011
58 Restaurants
Nicoresti C-5, Str. Maria Rosetti 40, tel. (+4) 021 211
24 80/(+4) 021 211 13 34, www.restaurantnicoresti.
ro. Maybe we have been harsh in the past with our reviews of
Nicoresti. It is, after all, one of the most celebrated Romanian
restaurants in the city, and given that the service - always
our biggest problem with the place - has improved no end
of late, we think it is about time we give it another chance.
We suggest you do the same, for the food has always been
very good. The ciolan de porc (pork knuckle) with beans is
legendary: ask anyone in the city! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
13:00 - 23:00. €€. PALE
Rossetya C-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniver-
sitate, tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99/(+4) 0748 22 02 20,
rossetya@gmail.com, www.rossetya.ro. Romanian food
is never going to win any awards for originality, it being a mix
of various Balkan cuisines, yet Rossetya tries harder than
most to take it to new levels. As such this is as upmarket as
you can get, and the beef dishes here are especially good. Try
the sote de vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender beef sauteed
in cognac with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying
is the iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs
something of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetar-
ian food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. €€. PAVSW
Vatra Restaurant B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, MUniver-
sitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 83 75/(+4) 0721 20 08 00,
restaurantvatra@yahoo.com, www.vatra.ro. We have
been eating here for years and we can’t recommend the
place highly enough. You really will have go a long way to find
better value Romanian food than this. A brilliant, well-priced
restaurant close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park,
expect big portions of tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, ter-
rific mici and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PABS
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Violeta’s Vintage Kitchen C-5, Str. Batistei 23, tel.
(+4) 021 310 06 81, www.violetas.ro. The concept is great:
very good Romanian food with a nod towards the vegetarian
served off a menu that changes daily. You can check it online
and then decide if you fancy anything before setting off. Alas,
the service can be a little hit and miss. On one visit we were
given our menus, then ignored. We gave them five minutes,
then ten, then 15... then we got up and left. Next time though
all was well. We hope the second experience was the regular
experience, for the place is lovely and just so un-Bucharest you
want to squeeze it and hug it. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Mon, Sat
11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 14:30. €€. PGS
Sandwiches
Paul B-2, Str. Radu Beller 1, tel. (+4) 021 230 17 33,
www.paul.fr. Sandwich shop par excellence. The finest,
crispiest bread gets wrapped around upmarket fillings. There
are pastries too, and even soups. A couple of tables inside, but
it is mainly a takeaway-place for the office workers of the area.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PABS
Sandwich Factory
B-4, Calea Victoriei 12A, tel. (+4) 031 620 12 77, office@
snackattack.ro, www.snackattack.ro. The best thing to
happen to lunchtime in Bucharest... ever. Sandwich Factory,
now with more than eight outlets around town, stocks well
made, well filled sandwiches of all shapes and sizes, from
baguettes to bagels to classic English doorsteps. Ignore all
other sandwich shops and get here immediately. Q Open
08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (D-4) Str. Batistei 17,
tel. (+4) 031 620 12 43; (C-4) Str. Ion Campineanu 10, tel. (+4)
031 620 12 39 and many other locations around the city,
including Baneasa Airport. AS
Seafood
La Veranda A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel.
(+4) 021 224 00 34, bucharest@crowneplaza.ro, www.
laveranda.ro. One of three new places opened recently at
the Crowne Plaza. This one is housed inside a glass terrace
offering wonderful views of the garden outside: a joy in any
weather. It serves deceptively simple yet exquisite fish and
sea food as fresh as the day it was caught, and the chef
will happily cook to order. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€.
PAEBSW
Mesogios C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 49, tel. (+4) 021 313
49 51, (+4) 0727 23 92 39/(+4) 021 317 13 55, cezar@
mesogios.ro, www.mesogios.ro. A businessman’s dream.
While Mesogios certainly doesn’t get any cheaper, the high
standards here have ensured that it remains packed with
happy punters. Getting on for a decade since it opened
its dedication to seafood has not waned for one moment,
and we never leave disappointed (and we come here as
often as our wallet allows). Join us and enjoy squid, lobster,
prawns of all sizes, mussels, oysters, giant sea bass and
a host of other wet treats. QOpen 12:30 - 23:30. €€€€.
PALESW
For details of restaurants, cafes,
bars and clubs in Bucharest’s
Old Town (Lipscani), see the
feature on pages 74-87.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants 59

Taverna Pescareasca La Zavat E-5, Str. Popa Nan 16,

tel. (+4) 021 252 29 56/(+4) 0766 52 67 91, taverna.
pescareasca@yahoo.com, www.taverna-lazavat.ro.
Top little place with more atmosphere in its small toe than
most other restaurants have in their entire bodies. Cracking
menu of primarily fish and seafood, though there are local
Romanian and international favourites too. An exemplary
wine list (for all budgets) makes it a super place for vineyard
fans: all of Romania’s top wineries are represented. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PABS

Steak Houses
JW Steakhouse Bucharest B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie
90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021
403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. The JW Marriott joins
the Bucharest chophouse revolution with the opening of the JW
Steakhouse, only the second such signature venue to open in
Europe. You can expect a very American steakhouse experience,
right down to the Black Angus beef imported from the US. The
Tomahawk steak - weighing in at nearly a kilo and costing almost
€100 - is the pick of the steaks, but there is much more besides,
including broiled lobster and Australian lamb chops. There is
a great selection of new world wines, and they open early for
breakfast: the JW steak and eggs is a great way to start the day.
Q Open 06:30 - 11:00, 6:30 - 23:30; Sunday 06:30 - 11:00,
12:00 - 16:00 (brunch). €€€€. PAESW

Osho B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31,
(+4) 021 568 30 32, www.osho-restaurant.ro. Biggest, bad-
dest, meanest and downright bestest chophouse in town. Oh yes,
this is a butcher’s shop and restaurant serving T-bone steaks
you would scream for in the dark. There is more than steak on
the menu though, such as a top burger and tangy mutton chops,
and take note that all the meat is Romanian. We have to admit to
being pleasantly surprised about the prices: given the location
(this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more than reasonable
considering you get the best of the best.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Vegetarian
€€€€. PALVBSW Casa Satya A-3, B-dul Banu Manta 25, tel. (+4) 0788
78 81 11/(+4) 021 222 12 59, contact@satya.ro, www.
Turkish satya.ro. Where do you start when reviewing a place as
revolutionary as this? The concept is Ayurveda, as in the mix
Golden Falcon C-5, Str. Hristo Botev 18-20, tel. (+4) life and science. Ayuvedic principles have long been applied
021 314 28 25/(+4) 021 313 28 33. Still the greatest to alternative medicine, now it is developing into cuisine, and
kebab house in the land, and still packing in the punters who
come back time and again. There are no menus here: instead that is what we have here. Everything on the menu is toxin
the waitresses will parade a trolley-full of meze before you to free, so no meat, but there is plenty of seafood, and every-
pick from, before coming round with the kebabs: pick which thing is made with only fresh, organic ingredients. Amazingly,
one you want then send it to be cooked in the open kitchen. that does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys
We usually always go for the lamb kebabs, but in our experi- served with the poppadoms will convince you of that right
ence all of them are well worth trying. Great desserts too. from the off. The toilets by the way are amazing. QOpen
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PASW 12:30 - 23:00. €€€. PTAVGBSW

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

60 CAFÉs
Cafe Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, tel. (+4) 021
316 65 16, www.timesevents.ro. Free wifi with your
(excellent) coffee and a can-do attitude from the staff
who appear to realise that sometimes people are busy,
and need their coffee double quick. Not ever y cafe in
Bucharest does realise that... Having said that, this is
the kind of laid-back place that you end up spending the
whole afternoon in, no matter how bust you are. Q Open
08:00 - 24:00. PALBW
Cafe Verona/Verona Garden
C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, tel. (+4) 0732
00 30 61/(+4) 0732 00 30 60, w w w.car turesti.
ro. Sublime. The brilliant Carturesti bookshop has long
served coffee with its books, and now there is wine; and
cocktails too. This is the kind of place you come to in
order to meet friends, and then end up staying all day.
If there is a better place to sit in the shade this close to
the city centre than the Verona Garden we know not of
it. For weekend brunch it makes a brilliant alternative to
the big, expensive hotels. Note that during the summer
the inside cafe will keep irregular hours. Q Open 10:00 -
01:00. PAEBW
Caffe & Latte B-5, B-dul Schitu Măgureanu 35, tel. (+4)
021 314 38 34, office@caffelatte.ro, www.caffelatte.ro.
The food, the coffee and the décor all stay more or less the
same - and yet still they come. What does get better here
is the cake selection: it seems to improve year after year.
The location is great of course, right opposite the nicest
park in the city centre, and the staff are young, friendly and
multi-lingual, eager to help out lost tourists and give him a
good coffee before he sets off on his way. QOpen 08:00 -
22:00. PB
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Home Delivery
Fabio Pizza , tel. (+4) 021 311 71 22/(+4) 021
322 07 22, centrul1@fabiopizza.ro, www.fabiopizza.
ro. Currently our favourite home-delivery pizza company.
Great prices, cheerful delivery chaps and terrific pizza
(if you choose the thin and crispy base, baza subtire in
Romanian). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Jerry’s D- -6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021
327 40 40/(+4) 021 425 15 15, www.jerryspizza.ro.
Though still delivering good pizza, there is much more to
Jerry’s than pizza though these days. Hot chicken wings,
subs and salads, for a start. Friendly delivery boys in
our experience: always worth an extra mark. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Jerry’s at
Night Open 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24:00-04:00,
tel. (+4) 0722 33 41 41.
Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 0733
50 07 50, rezervari@orasul-interzis.ro, www.orasul-
interzis.ro. Home delivery arm of the excellent Chinese
restaurant of same name. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00.
Trenta Pizza , tel. (+4) 021 9645, www.trentapizza.
ro. This is the real deal. Thin, crispy pizzas served piping
hot to your door for peanuts. They do the thick-style piz-
zas too: make sure you ask for baza subtire - thin base.
They will also bring you a tomato sauce to accompany the
pizza: the hot one is genuinely hot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
Wu Xing , tel. (+4) 021 222 21 26/(+4) 0722 83
03 30, contact@wuxing.ro, www.wuxing.ro. Profes-
sional, if slightly pricey Chinese delivery service. It’s
not quite Chinese as you know it from home, but pretty
close. Good option when you can’t be bothered to cook
or leave the house. You can even order online. And it all
comes in funky white boxes. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00,
Sat 11:00 - 15:45, 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 15:45;
17:00 - 23:00.
Yin-Yang B-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir 38, tel. (+4) 021
231 41 32/(+4) 0723 31 09 03, comenzi@china-
express.ro, www.yinyangrestaurant.ro. Sometimes
delivers the best Chinese food, and sometimes definitely
doesn’t. Take a shot in the dark, try them (fairly fast ser-
vice) and you may be hooked. Very affordable and good
duck dishes - just check the website for an online menu.
QOpen 09:30 - 22:50, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 23:20.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Gradina OAR C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 19, tel. (+4)
021 650 20 20/(+4) 0743 02 79 81, cafenea@gradina-
oar.ro, www.gradina-oar.ro. A semi-secret hideaway of
a garden serving coffee, tea, lemonade and cocktails to a
wonderful crowd that simply wants to relax with good friends
and listen to mellow music in gorgeous surroundings. A gem
of a place that should be stuffed and preserved for all time.
Alas the weather means it closes at the end of September
until next year. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. ENBW
Green Tea D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 24, tel. (+4) 021 320
93 96, www.greentea.ro. Magnificent. We know that there
have been tea houses in Bucharest before, but none were
ever like this. A gorgeous villa whose many rooms have all
been lovingly decorated in a different theme (one is like your
favourite Gran’s front room, another is like a country house)
the list of teas available is as long as your arm. Some are very
exotic indeed. And yes, besides taking tea here, you can buy
just about all of the teas in the shop. Brilliant, find someone
special and go there immediately. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PGBW
Readers Cafe B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97,
tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, contact@readerscafe.ro, www.
readerscafe.ro. This place is one of the great things about
the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft
restaurant also from part. You will find Readers on the ground
floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read,
drink great coffee or eat - far better than you would expect.
The breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty and well-filled,
the salads big and the pasta light. Live music most evenings
(early evening) and well separated smoking and non-smoking
sections. Nice. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 04:00.
PAEBSW
Serendipity Tea House C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 12,
MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 31 00/(+4) 0743 28
33 42, events@serendipity-tea.ro, www.serendipity-tea.
ro. Tea, and lots of it. There are more than 55 types of tea
For details of restaurants, cafes,
bars and clubs in Bucharest’s
Old Town (Lipscani), see the
feature on pages 74-87.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
CAFÉs 61
available, including the trademark Serendipity, an aromatic
yet fruity green tea with more than a hint of strawberries. A
quiet location just off an otherwise busy central street make
this a superb choice for long, peaceful afternoons reading a
good book with a great cup of tea or two. Oh, and we should
point out that the coffee menu is not bad either. QOpen
15:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. TAGW
Tonka Soul Cafe B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 19, tel. (+4)
0723 44 80 80/(+4) 021 317 83 42, office@tonka.ro,
www.tonka.ro. This place has indeed got soul, and plenty
else besides. Warm and quiet coffe house by day, it becomes
the perfect aperitivo spot when the sun goes down, then
gets really wild as the music gets louder and the hours get
shorter. There’s a good internet cafe in the basement. Q
Open 24hrs. PARB
Vintage Cafe C-4, Str. Mendeleev 22, MP-ta Romana,
tel. (+4) 021 310 71 09, contact@vintagecafe.ro, www.
vintagecafe.ro. Nice, central, cafe which manages to be
retro without kitsch and which pulls off the difficult cafe/
cocktail combo with aplomb. Serves a seriously good range
of coffees, and an exemplary Mojito (something which always
wins points with us). Before the rejuvenation of Old Town,
this street was set to become the most popular cafe/bar
destination in the city: a few more great places like this and
it will be just that. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
24:00. PABW
June - July 2011
62 Nightlife
Bars
Dark Blå Bar /Light Blå Terrace /Blå Lounge Bar
B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00, www.bla-lounge.ro. A collection of bars and
lounges from the Radisson, popular with an after-work crowd
who view it as a decent alternative to the English Bar in the
Hilton across the road. Expect contemporary design, great
bar food (try the duck blinis) and cracking cocktails. Add in
a splendid range of agreeable wines and you have a winner.
We think the Light Blå Terrace is the most stunning smok-
ing room in the city. Q Blå Lounge Bar 09:00 - 02:00, Sun
09:00-24:00; Light Blå Terrace 09:00 - 02:00, Dark Blå Bar
17:00-02:00. PALBW
English Bar C-5, Str. Epicopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace
Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 3777 ext. 6759. This little
corner of the Hilton that will forever be associated with intrigue
Bucharest In Your Pocket
and spies (it has been around for nearly a century, as long
as the hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne
by the glass and much else besides (including a tremendous
pint of Guinness). Packed with business leaders and expats
most evenings it is hard not to love it. It is one of our regular
haunts. Q Open 11:00 - 02:00. PALW
Fourteen C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 14, MP-ta
Romana, tel. (+4) 0730 47 22 33, revolutionsquare@
fourteen.ro, www.fourteen.ro. Reopened and better than
ever, this English-owned and run bar stroke club is for a more
discerning crowd: one fed up with the regular, fitze dominated
Bucharest nightlife scene. Expect a very good mix of music
(1980s pop and electro and Brit Pop being the staples) and
plenty of theme nights. Happy hour every evening from 17:00-
19:00, and a popular venue for private parties. QOpen 17:00
- 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. PAEX
Fratelli C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 5, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 311 66 76, www.fratelli.ro. Calling itself
a bar and lounge, there are certainly enough comfy sofas
here to qualify it in the lounge category. That is if you can get
in of course. Though we can usually blag our way past the
fellas on the door, we know people who have been told it’s
full even though they knew it damn well wasn’t. What’s more
it isn’t really a fitze kind of place. It has its Starck furniture
and resident posers of course but in general the crowd that
makes it in is more business than biznes. Worth trying to get
in. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00. PAB
Intermezzo Piano Bar C-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4
(Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021
310 20 20. Legendary hotel bar in the lobby of the Eenter,
which was a den of iniquity and intrigue during the commu-
nist period, all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps.
Now its merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in
superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why
the InterContinental is once again a decent place to spend
time. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PALE
Pillow Bar & Lounge C-4, Str. Comanita 5, tel. (+4)
0730 88 33 77, office@pillow.ro, www.pillow.ro. The
odd Ikea coffee table aside (and let’s face it, who hasn’t got
at least half a dozen Ikea coffee tables these days?), Pillow is
the kind of place we like to see opening up. It is cool without
being pretentious, serves Illy coffee and has a couple of
tables that double as beds, hence the name. It is in fact the
kind of place where you could happily enjoy an exotic smoke,
though as this is Bucharest, not Amsterdam, the smoke will
be limited to tangy middle eastern tobaccos taken through
a narghilea. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 06:00.
PLNB
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife 63

Cinema: Going to the Movies

Films in Romania are shown in their original language with
Romanian subtitles. The exceptions are animated films,
which - at the multiplexes - can usually be viewed in the
original language (subtitrat) or dubbed into Romanian
(dublat). To find out which films are showing, check the
individual websites of each cinema, or browse the full
programme of the city’s cinemas at www.cinema.ro.

Hollywood Multiplex E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59

(Bucuresti Mall), tel. (+4) 021 327 70 20/(+4) 021
327 70 21, www.hmultiplex.ro. The best complex of
cinemas in the city, offering ten screens, good popcorn
and comfortable seats. Q Tickets 17.40 - 26.50 lei.

IMAX/Cinema City B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Ti-

misoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 407 00 00, fax
(+4) 031 425 75 13, www.aficotroceni.ro. The first
IMAX cinema in Romania will open at the end of October
as part of the new Cinema CIty complex in the Cotroceni
Palace shopping centre. Q Tickets 19-36 lei. P

The Light Cinema Sos. Progresului 151-171 (Lib-

erty Center), tel. (+4) 021 369 97 97/(+4) 021 369
97 40, www.lightcinemas.ro. The only gripe we would
have with this 3D cinema (the first to open in Romania)
is the creative pricing: tickets never appear to cost what
you expect. Q Tickets 15.00 - 33.00 lei.

Q Pub C-4, Str. Mendeleev 35, tel. (+4) 021 316 80 45/
(+4) 0722 518 612, qpub99@gmail.com, www.q-pub.
ro. Busier on weeknights than a lot of other bars in the Piata
Amzei area, with an omnipresent DJ playing agreeable enough
music. The drinks are affordable enough and the crowd is
neutral, albeit sometimes full of groups of men gawping at
women or at each other. QOpen 17:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu. PLEX
Ramayana Cafe A-5, Str. Baldovin Parcalabul 11, tel.
(+4) 021 317 16 81, www.ramayana.ro. Looking like a
cross between a Maharaja’s bedroom and the most luxuri-
ous hotel in Delhi, this cafe and cocktail bar is quite frankly
unique. You will not find anywhere in Bucharest quite so star-
tling in design, nor will you find a better place to bring a secret
date for a little tete-a-tete. With more nooks and crannies than
your grandmother’s country house, pull up a cushion, sup on
a hookah pipe and drink a green tea. Exceptional. Q Open
24 hrs. PABSW
Terminus B-5, Str. George Enescu 5, tel. (+4) 021 318
16 67/(+4) 0730 22 25 55, contact@terminus.ro, www.
terminus.ro. Pub/bar on the ground floor, while downstairs
there is a basement bar which becomes more a nightclub
with an industrial feel as the evening wears on. There’s a big
bar and getting a drink - once not easy - is now a joy thanks
to top staff. The central location right between the Radisson
and Hilton gurantees it a steady flow of thirsty visitors. Guin-
ness on tap. QOpen 09:30 - 04:00, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun
12:00 - 04:00. PAW
Victoria Club C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel
Continental), tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 06, info@grandhotel-
continental.ro, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Elegant
English bar and cigar lounge that - with its gorgeous leather
armchairs - immediately reminded us of our favourite bar in
Vienna (which shall rename nameless). And that’s exactly

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

64 Nightlife
what we’ve found ourselves doing here: it’s a great place to
get away from the bustle of the city for a bit, to enjoy the fine
selection of English teas (there’s good coffee too) and later
on one of more than 100 spirits. Oh, and they have a top
selection cigars too, we should add. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
PALW
Yellow Bar C-5, Str. Edgar Quinet 10, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0725 77 80 00/(+4) 0726 92 40 46, bary-
elow@yahoo.com. Still popular after all these years, and
let’s face it: it’s been around as long as us. This is a great,
central place to relax and listen to a few good tunes, unwind
and feel nicely cut-off from the street above. Flashy leather/
brightly coloured-but-somehow-ambient decor. Top leather
sofas perfect for canoodling. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat,
Sun 15:00 - 03:00. PLNSW
Pubs
Dreamer’s B-5, Str. Gen. Berthelot 111, tel. (+4) 0723
11 22 00/(+4) 0744 36 63 50, dreamerspub@gmail.
com, www.dreamers.ro. As Spock might say, ‘it’s Dream-
ers Jim, but not as we know it.’ For if you remember the old
location as always being a bit cramped (though we have to
admit it was not without its charms) then you are in for a nice
shock at the new place. Everything you would expect from
a pub is here, from football on the television to Guinness in
the taps. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00.
PENW
Shift C-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021 211
22 72, info@shiftpub.ro, www.shiftpub.ro. It’s doubtful
that you’ve seen anything like this place in Bucharest before.
Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/bar/club of some style. The
garden/terrace is gorgeous, and has been packed since open-
Bucharest In Your Pocket
For details of restaurants, cafes,
bars and clubs in Bucharest’s
Old Town (Lipscani), see the
feature on pages 74-87.
ing day with the hippest people in the land. Late at night this is
the coolest chill-out venue in the city, and we love it. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. PABSW
Whispers B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4, tel. (+4) 021 314
29 01/(+4) 0722 43 90 97, office@whispers.ro, www.
whispers.ro. Popular with expats who come to watch the
football that’s shown live via satelite, Whispers is far more
than you expect from your standard expat pub. It’s got great
food - massive portions of international, Romanian and even
British favourites at tip top prices - and the staff are just the
right side of friendly. Well worth a visit. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PAVBSW
White Horse B-3, Str. George Călinescu 4A, tel. (+4)
021 231 27 95, office@whitehorse.ro, www.whitehorse.
ro. The White Horse has been around so long it should prob-
ably consider going out to stud. Or should it? On a recent visit
we found it to be in surprisingly good shape, and packed with
both locals of the ‘ordinary people’ variety, as well as group
of rowdy expats. There is still good food in the more formal
part upstairs, with bar snacks served down, and though we
have always loved the square bar. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.
PABSW
Irish Pubs
Dubliner A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 18, tel. (+4) 021 260
26 78, www.irishpubs.ro. Is there football on? Dubliner.
Rugby? Dubliner. Cricket? Dubliner. It’s not that there aren’t
now other pubs to go to (there have been for quite some time)
but the question is, why would you go anywhere else? All your
mates are probably here, both the best steak and kidney pie
in town is here, the best Guinness in Bucharest is poured
here, and the widest choice of foreign television channels is
here. Think about going somewhere else by all means - even
talk about it - but then do what’s sensible and get yourself
here. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PAEBW
The Harp C-6, Str. Bibescu Voda 1, MP-ta Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 335 65 08, www.irishpubs.ro. The other half of
the Dubliner. The idea is more or less the same: good food,
drinks, service and a friendly crowd, though with less of an
emphasis on live British sport (as such it is more popular with
locals than expats, who head for the Dubliner). A cavernous
place, with two levels, it’s quaintly decorated with framed
old newspaper front pages and pictures, as well as great
wallpaper. It thus somehow avoids the soulless synthetic feel
of many Oirish pubs abroad. Faultless chicken and mushroom
pies. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PAEW
Clubs & Discos
BOA (Beat of Angels) B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)
0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.ro. From the outside a
fairly non-descript building that looks vaguely like warehouse,
but once in, Wow! This is the newest uber-club to open in
Bucharest, an enormous place that mixes luxury with great
music courtesy of two top local resident DJs. There is plenty
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
66 Nightlife
of space to dance, plenty of places to chill out and even the
toilets are spacious and damn well luxurious. You will leave
wanting to go back and cursing your luck that it is only open
twice a week. Oh, and wear sunglasses, everybody else
seems to! QOpen 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. PALEXW
Club Bamboo D-2, Str. Tuzla 50, tel. (+4) 0726 22
62 66, www.bambooclub.ro. Super fiţe club where only
the best looking and the best dressed stand any chance
of getting in. If you can blag your way past the staff you will
enter a world where poverty is a dirty word: only the richest
Romanians come here, and their dress sense is as good or
bad as you can imagine depending on your taste. Music is
clubby, friendly house, loud enough to dance to but mellow
enough to permit conversation. Q Open 23:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PALEB
Control Club C-5, Str. Academiei 19 (Pasajul Victoriei),
tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.control-club.ro. This place
tops our list of ‘clubs for people who do not like clubs.’ It’s big,
bigger than most in the city, and the two different zones (one
especially for live music) have been laid out well. The music in
the evenings is always live, be it a band or DJ, and it is always
a pleasing, non-clubby mix of indie hits, a bit of rock and 70s
disco. Where else in Bucharest will you see a Joy Division
tribute band? Recent improvements in bar efficiency also now
mean it does not take all night to get a drink. We love it. Q
Open Mon, Tue 14:00 - 03:00, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 05:00, Fri
14:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 06:00. PAEW
Coyote Cafe B-4, Calea Victoriei 48-50 (Pasajul Vic-
toriei), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 34 87/(+4)
0724 01 11 35, office@coyotecafe.ro, www.coyote-
cafe.ro. Coyote is a loud, proud music bar which sets new
Bucharest In Your Pocket
standards for live music and good times. A huge warren of a
venue, good rock music - sometimes provided by the owners
themselves - and the right kind of crowd. Very nice indeed.
QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 -
04:00. Closed Mon. PAE
Deja-vu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 25, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 311 23 22, www.dejavu-club.ro. A place that
goes from strength to strength. Still the best cocktail bar this
side of the River Prut, it is now open during the day for food
too: you could spend your whole life in here. The draw though
remain the participatory cocktails, some of which involve fire,
and a few which involve wearing a World War II Russian army
helmet. They also serve at least one which involves a young
Russian girl squeezing lemon into your mouth with her teeth.
At weekends it is packed and the small dancefloor is the
sweatiest place in Bucharest. You will love it. QOpen 12:00
- 04:00. Club Open 22:00 - 04:00. PALESW
Eleven
C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18, tel. (+4) 0751 11 11
15, www.eleven.com.ro. City-centre club lauding itself as
an oasis of luxury. Leather sofas, purple cushions, Svarovski
crystal, clever lighting: it’s that sort of luxury. Music is fairly
mainstream, clubby house, provided by a live DJ. There are
special events at least once a week, whether it’s a theme
night or a guest DJ shipped in from Italy. Given the luxury angle
drink prices are accessible and there’s no entrance fee. Try a
bit with your dress though. Trainers a no-no. QOpen 23:00 -
07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAW
Expirat/Other Side B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4/Str. Lip-
scani 5, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28/(+4) 0726 80 41 42,
office@expirat.org, www.expirat.org. Two clubs (almost)
in one. There are two entrances to the same building (on the
corner of Brezoianu and Lipscani, underneath Whispers),
Casinos
Casino Bucharest C-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4
(InterContinental Hotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0728 83 38 28/(+4) 021 312 26 00, concierge@
casinobucharest.ro, w w w.casinobucharest.ro.
QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PALVK
Grand Casino B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403
08 00, marriott@grandcasinoromania.com, www.
grandcasinoromania.com. Q Open 24 hrs.
Havana Princess Casino C-5, B-dul Regina
Elisabeta 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313
98 23, www.worldofprincess.com. Q Open 24 hrs.
PAL
Palace Casino B-4, Calea Victoriei 133, MVicto-
riei, tel. (+4) 021 311 97 44/(+4) 0722 66 57 88,
office@casinopalace.ro, www.casinopalace.ro. Q
Open 24hrs. PALVGK
Platinum Casino B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel.
(+4) 031 710 22 34, (+4) 0720 22 74 66, platinum@
platinumcasino.ro, www.platinumcasino.ro. Q Open
24 hrs. PLK
Queen Casino B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, MP-ta
Romana, tel. (+4) 0372 76 34 45, www.queen-
casino.ro. Q Open 24 hrs. PARULVEK
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

both of which are enjoyable venues that are a real hit with
young party goers of all backgrounds. For the record Expirat
1 (entrance on Lipscani) is the more mainstream club, popular
with girls still in their teens and men who like to chat them
up, while The Other Side of Expirat (entrance on Brezoianu)
is more edgy, funky and simply - in our opinion - better. See
you there. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. PEW
Jukebox Club E-6, Str. Turturelelor 11, tel. (+4) 021
322 66 10/(+4) 021 323 70 83, rezervari@jukeboxclub.
ro, www.jukeboxclub.ro. Smashing live music club. Expect
good - mainly local but often foreign - live acts most nights
of the week, with a reasonably big name performing at least
once or twice a month. Good beer, a very good atmosphere
and a real favourite of big groups of friends looking for a great
night out. You can eat here too: there’s a restaurant serving
some terrific, big-portioned Romanian food on site. QOpen
10:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PALESW
Kristal Glam Club Sos Pipera 48, tel. (+4) 0722 79
51 84, club.kristal@yahoo.com, www.clubkristal.ro. It’s
moved. A bit further out of town than it used to be, it is still
the number one venue in the city for top international DJs,
who play here before they play anywhere else in Romania.
The cavernous interior doesn’t have the intimacy or the garish
decor of the old place, but the size of the new Kristal, and the
concave roof, mean it doesn’t feel too claustrophobic even
when half the city turns up to dance. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. ALE
Kulturhaus C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, tel. (+4) 021 313 55
92, www.kulturhaus.ro. Good riddance Twice, wilkommen
Kulturhaus. A nakedly non-commercial club that attracts a
nakedly (though not naked, except on fetish nights!) non-
commercial crowd on two levels offering hard rock, folk rock,
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife 67
new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty much the
same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ...) Has a live
band playing at least once a week, bags of other events and
refreshingly says ‘NO’ to table service: yes, you will have to get
your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We are fans. QOpen
22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEB
Music Club C-6, Str. Baratiei 31, tel. (+4) 0720 88 71
15/(+4) 021 314 61 97, www.music-club.ro. Just about
the best live music venue in Bucharest right now, Music Club is
where you’ll find a great resident band most evenings perform-
ing creditable covers of all your favourite classic hits. They
are more often than not joined on stage in the early hours
by leading Romanian musicians who have quickly made this
place their preferred haunt. Very nice indeed. Be prepared to
have a very good time. QOpen 22:30 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 -
03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PE
Rooms
C-4, Str. Mendeleev 28-30, tel. (+4) 0730 07 66 67,
events@therooms.ro, www.therooms.ro. By day a cafe
and lounge, by night a bar and club, Rooms might well want to
be the place to be, but presently suffers for not really knowing
exactly what it is. Cafe? Bar? Lounge? None of the above.
It is a collection of rooms in a grand-ish villa, all decorated
individually and expensively, but not all with taste. By night
the crowd that throngs here is young: anyone over about 25
will almost certainly feel old here. Q Open 09:00 - 03:00.
Club Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PABW
Shade Club C-5, B-dul Magheru 24, tel. (+4) 0731 06
06 06, rezervari@clubshade.ro, www.clubshade.ro. It’s
the newest place in the city and as such it’s hip, trendy and
very cool, though the crowd is older than you might expect:
no kiddlywinks here. Besides DJs playing funky sounds there
June - July 2011
68 Nightlife
are regular live events, with top local and even foreign bands.
Off to a good start it is to be hoped that this place lasts the
distance. So many like it have come and gone in the past. Q
Open 23:00 - 06:00, Thu (announced events only). Closed
Tue, Wed. PAEW
Studio Martin B-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 61, tel.
(+4) 0733 62 78 46, www.studiomartin.ro. Legendary
cinema and night spot now operated by the lovely people at
The Mission. There’s high quality music from serious DJs for
serious people most Friday and Saturday nights. More often
than not you’ll find a top name European DJ on the bill. So
popular is this place now that getting in can be a challenge: get
tickets for the biggest gigs in advance when you can. QOpen
23:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PNW
The Ark Calea Rahovei 196A, tel. (+4) 0724 58 85 34,
rezerv@theark.ro, www.theark.ro. The Ark at The Ark is
once again The Ark (for a bit back there it was Club Front).
What trendy types would call a ‘multi-media venue’ this place
is a bar/cafe on the ground floor (often used for fashion shows,
film screenings, art exhibitions and the like) while downstairs
is a more conventional club and live music venue. Music is
fairly mainstream clubby electro, but the bands who play
here come from music styles of all stripes. Oh, and it is in a
gorgeous building (which was once -long, long ago - the city’s
stock exchange). QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. PAEB
The Gang C-3, Calea Floreasca 111-113, tel. (+4) 0733
97 52 77, club@thegang.ro, www.thegang.ro. You wanna
be in my gang? Perhaps the best uber-club in Bucharest. It’s
the usual mix of luxury and chic (the decor is in fact in very
good taste: the mix of colours is well done, and not over-
the-top as in so many other places) attracting a cashed-up
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Vice Advice
Wth more brothels, massage parlours and sex shops
per square inch than most places in Eastern Europe, you
could be forgiven for thinking Bucharest was the sex capital
of the continent. You could also be forgiven for thinking that
prostitution was legal: we can assure you of the fact that it
certainly isn’t, despite any and all appearances.
This being Romania however, the law is more a minor
obstacle to be overcome than a serious impediment, so you
can indeed get away with sin, sin and more sin anytime you
like, though discretion remains essential.
If you are looking for sins of the flesh, you basically
have three options: one legal, one not exactly legal but not
exactly illegal either, and one completely illegal.
The legal option (and the only option we recommend)
is erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will
almost certainly not be offered any sexual encounters at
these places, but there is still much fun to be had, from
simple hand assistance to full body massage from one,
two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at around
€50 though climb higher at the more central, luxurious
establishments.
The second (and not-always-above-board) option
is to simply head for a brothel (surely ‘erotic nightclub?’ –
Ed). These establishments advertise themselves in seedy
publications as legitimate strip clubs, but act mainly as
fronts for whorehouses, usually run by very dodgy, and
often quite dangerous businessmen. After sitting yourself
down at a table you will be served expensive drinks, before
being joined by some very bored and not always attractive
young ladies (most of Romania’s best-looking prostitutes
are allegedly plying their trade in Germany and the Czech
Republic). These girls sometimes lap dance for you, and
always try to convince you to buy them ‘cocktails’ (in fact
orange juice with an umbrella, usually costing about €15).
After half an hour of bored conversation you will be asked if
you would like to retreat to a more intimate location, usually
a room above, or even in, the night club itself. For an hour of
whatever it is you fancy expect to pay a minimum of €100,
as well as the obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which
usually costs at least another €50. All this on top of the
tab you have already run up of course.
But be careful. Not all of these ‘night clubs’ are worth
your time. Indeed, some can allegedly cause you physical
harm. One such establishment, allegedly, is Stars Night
Club on Strada Ion Campineanu, opposite the Novotel. A
recent Romanian newspaper report claimed that a group
of American soldiers were recently beaten up here after
refusing to pay a bill of €3,000. Approach all night clubs
with caution.
The third (and entirely illegal) option is to call one
of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality
city guides found around town. These escorts are usually
unattractive prostitutes who charge €150 upwards for
sex. Bait and switch operations (you order an 18 year-old
with large breasts and you get a 48 year-old with large
everything) are commonplace, and you should really think
twice before calling them.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife 69

For details of restaurants, cafes,

bars and clubs in Bucharest’s
Old Town (Lipscani), see the
feature on pages 74-87.

crowd of young party people listening to groovy club sounds

provided by local and international DJs. There is live music
now and again too, as well as a regular selection of theme
nights. A taxi ride from the city centre. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PALEW

The Silver Church

A-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0723 37 90 26/
(+4) 021 313 55 92, office@tscarena.ro, www.tscarena.
ro. Currently the best place to see good local bands. Looking
(inside) very much like a, well. silver church (albeit one which
has dropped plenty of acid), it’s a cavernous venue with ter-
rific acoustics and it is this mix of big club/small concert hall
that gives it the edge over some other venues. So good is the
sound that the biggest local bands are playing here simply
for the hell of it. A winner. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Entrance
20 lei. PAUE

Turabo Society Club

Str. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0755 11 17 77/(+4) 0744 31
34 44, club@turabo.ro, www.turabo-societyclub.ro. Well,
it had to happen. Purveyors of the trendiest cafes in town open
up a club that - guess what - becomes a massive hit and the
most fashionable in the city. Featuring some of the sexiest
dancers in Romania Friday and Saturday nights here are wild.
The music is supplied by the world’s best DJs. You will need to
take a taxi here, but then this is not the kind of place for people
who use public transport anyway... QOpen 23:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PALW
Jazz clubs
Art Jazz Club C-5, B-dul N. Bălcescu 23A, MUniver-
sitate, tel. (+4) 0731 64 59 18, www.artjazzclub.ro.
Sometimes packed and bubbling over, other times deserted
and depressing, Art Jazz Club puts on as many jazz concerts
as it can every week (usually three or four). The quality of
the music is good but rarely inspiring, though the drinks are
amongst the cheapest in the area. There always seems
to be a large amount of bearded men every time we have
visited. Entrance is actually through a small door next to a
little car park behind the Senate, rather than on Balcescu
as the address suggests. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. Closed
Tue. PEW
Green Hours 22 Club Jazz Café
B-4, Calea Victoriei 120, tel. (+4) 0788 45 24 85/
(+4) 0722 23 43 56, concerte@greenhours.ro, www.
greenhours.ro. A legend, really. It’s been around a long time
and is as good as ever. It’s a trendy, atmospheric jazz club,
where it’s almost impossible to find a table. Make sure you
reserve in advance, especially at this time of year when its
terrace is incredibly popular (and rightly so). And it’s not only
about jazz: other types of live music get performed here as
well as all sorts of arty stuff - including theatre. Q Open
24hrs. PAEBW

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

70 What to see
Essential Bucharest
The first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days
should probably be the Historic Centre, or Old Town. We have
a feature on that very part of the city beginning on page 74,
written in the from of a walk around the area: in a city with not
as many essential sights and things to do as you may expect, a
walk around Old Town is as close to essential as it gets.
Once you have ticked off Old Town, you can head for the
sights, museums, churches and buildings we list here. The
Peasant and Village Museums should take priority, as well as
the Grigore Antipa National History Museum (as and when
it reopens). While still the most famous building in the city and
usually top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa Poporului/
Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down for most,
mainly due to the stilted nature of the compulsory guided tour.
Art lovers - especially fans of sacred art - should pencil in at
least an afternoon at the National Art Museum.
Arcul de Triumf A-2, Piata Arcul de Triumf. Bucharest’s Arc
de Triumf was built in 1922 to commemorate Romania’s World
War I dead. The original was made of wood, it being replaced
by the present concrete structure in 1935. Standing 25 metres
high, the Arc has a staircase that allows visitors to climb to the
terrace on the top of the monument, though is opened only on
special occassions. The sculptures and reliefs that decorate
the monument were created by the leading artists of the day,
including Ion Jalea and Constantin Baraschi.
George Enescu Museum (Muzeul National George
Enescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 141, tel. (+4) 021 318 14
50. Mistakenly believed to be the great Romanian composer
George Enescu’s former home, this outstanding Secession
house was in fact built for landowner George Cantacuzino in
1905, and many older Bucharest residents still refer to it as
Bucharest In Your Pocket
The Mineriada of June 1990
In the immediate aftermath of the Revolution of Decem-
ber 1989, members of Ion liescu’s new regime - including
Iliescu himself - had stated a number of times that the
National Salvation Front (FSN) would be nothing more
than a transitional government which would hold on to
power only until elections could be held. At the end of
January 1990 however, Iliescu announced that he would
stand for election as president, and that the FSN would
field candidates for parliament. Given that Iliescu and the
FSN had complete control of every facet of government,
including an almost total media-monopoly, their crushing
victory in the subsequent elections (held in April 1990)
was hardly surprising. Unhappy with what they viewed
as one dictatorship replacing another, large numbers of
protesters then began demonstrating against the new
regime in Piata Universităţii early in May.
Led by students from Bucharest University the dem-
onstrators soon occupied the entire square, declaring
that it was the only part of Romania genuinely free of
communism. As support for the students grew, they and
their protest became an embarrassment to Iliescu and
the FSN.
On June 13, 1990, Iliescu therefore ‘requested’ loyal
miners from the Jiu Valley come to Bucharest to ‘reoc-
cupy the square in the name of the revolution.’ Over the
next three days the miners killed or injured more than
100 people. Incredibly, Iliescu then went on television to
thank them for their ‘revolutionary zeal and spirit.’
Those student demonstrations of 1990 should
have acted as a catalyst for real change in Romania.
It can be argued that their revolt was in fact the real
Romanian Revolution; one quashed, however, by the neo-
communist Iliescu regime. Iliescu’s last act as president
before he finally left office in 2004 was to pardon Miron
Cozma, leader of the miners in 1990. Local outrage at
the pardon forced Iliescu to revoke it the next day, and
Cozma remained in prison until 2008.
Iliescu was himself investigated for his role in the
events of June 1990, yet was found not to have any
case to answer for. The families of those killed may
disagree.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

the Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955,
the year of Enescu’s death, and a year later opened as a
musuem dedicated to his life and work. Enescu did however
live for a period in the smaller house behind the main build-
ing, also open to the public.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 6 lei.
National Art Museum (MNAR; Muzeul National de
Arta; Former Royal Palace) B/C-5, Calea Victoriei
49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30 30, www.mnar.arts.ro. The
country’s largest, and most impressive art collection is housed
inside the splendid former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as
a private home by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. When
his sons fell into financial ruin some years later, they were
forced to sell the building to the state, which carried out huge
modifications, adding a number of new wings. It became a
royal residence in 1859, when it became the site of the court
of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza.
Although slightly remodelled in the late 1930s, the building we
see today is more or less the original, revolutionary damage
notwithstanding. Indeed, some parts of the building have only
recently been reopened after the mindless vandalism of those
mad days in December 1989, when the building was ransacked
by the iconoclastic mob, which saw the building (named the
Palace of the Socialist Republic during the communist period) as
a symbol of the regime. There are three permanent exhibitions,
one on each of the three floors of the main building: Medieval
Romanian Art, featuring icons, carved altars, illustrated
manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of frescoes; Modern
Romanian Art, with all of Romania’s greatest 20th century
artists well represented, including Theodor Aman, Constantin
Brancuşi, Gheorghe Patraşcu, and Gheorghe Tatarescu; and
European Paintings and Sculpture, which plays host to a
fine collection of Old European Masters. Q Open 10:00-18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei. PA
Palatul Parlamentului (Parliament Palace; Casa
Poporului) B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3,
tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11. Palatul Parlamentului (known
universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the dark-
est days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m
above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been
shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally
designed to house almost all the organs of the communist
state, it today plays host to the Romanian parliament and
a modern, well equipped conference centre, as well as
Romania’s Museum of Contemporary Art. The public
tour is the only way to see the building, though note that
the commentary consists of little more than a guide reeling
off endless superlative statistics. You’ll see plenty of grand
staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while
you can also go on the roof, which offers the best view of
central Bucharest. You can even take a trip into the bowels
of the building down below. To join one of the tours, you
should make reservations a day in advance as parliamentary
business means opening hours are subject to change. You
will also need to bring your internationally accepted ID. Use
the entrance on the right-hand side of the palace (if you’re
looking at it front-on). Izvor is the nearest metro station,
but you get a better view from Piata Unirii. QOpen 10:00
- 15:45. Admission 25 lei (standard tour), 30 lei (standard
tour and basement), 35 lei (standard tour and terrace), 45
lei (standard tour, terrace and basement). All tours include
access to the Palace’s terrace cafe. An additional fee of
30.00 lei is payable by those with cameras.
Peasant Museum (Muzeul Taranului Roman) B-3,
Şos. Kiseleff 3, tel./fax (+4) 021 317 96 60, info@
muzeultaranuluiroman.ro, www.muzeultaranuluiro-
man.ro. In most people’s opinion, the Peasant Museum is
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
What to see 71
the best museum in Bucharest, and one of the best in the
country. Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed
by Nicolae Ghica-Budeşti, dating from 1912, the museum
offers well laid out and presented exhibits which tell you all
you need to know about the diverse and fascinating history
of life around the country over the past four centuries. There
are exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life,
from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery, from
colourful religious icons to traditional clothing. Replicas of
much of what is on display can be bought in the excellent if
a little pricey museum shop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 6 lei. Students and children 2 lei.
Village Museum (Muzeul Naţional al Satului Dimi-
trie Gusti) A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, tel. (+4) 021 317
91 10, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Outstanding. Founded by
Royal Decree in 1936, and covering some 15 hectares on
the shores of Lake Herăstrău, Muzeul Satului is one of the
greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. There are more
than 60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and
churches from all of Romania’s historic regions: Transylvania,
Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque
showing exactly where in Romania it was brought from. Some
even now have recorded commentary in four languages (if the
stickers are missing, press the second button for English).
Most of the houses date from the mid 19th-century, but there
are some, such as those from Berbeşti, in the heart of Roma-
nia - celebrated for their intricately carved entrances - which
date from as early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is
probably the steep belfry of the wooden Maramureş church,
complete with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not
miss the earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and
topped with thatched rooves, or the brightly painted dwellings
of the Danube Delta. Children love the museum, and it makes
for a perfect family day out.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission
6 lei, students/children 3 lei.
Buildings with a history
Atheneum (Ateneul Român) C-5, Str. Benjamin Frank-
lin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Possibly
the finest building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with
its sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the
city’s busiest public square, competing with the Athenee
Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national
library for attention. The work of French architect Albert Gal-
leron, who also designed the National Bank of Romania, the
building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888, and was built
almost entirely with money donated by ordinary citizens of
the capital, after the original patrons ran out of funds. Today
the seat of the Romanian Philharmonic George Enescu.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Casa Centrala a Armatei (Military Club) B-5, Str.
Constantin Mille 1. Standing guard, imposingly, at the
head of B-dul Kogalniceanu, the Casa Centrala a Armatei,
usually known to all as Cercul Militar, was built in 1912 on
the site of the former Sarindar Monastery (the name of which
is preserved in the name of the fountain directly in front of
the building). This neo-classic masterpiece, designed by
Romanian architect Dimitrie Maimaroiu, was built to host the
social, cultural and educational needs of the Romanian army.
Banquets and regimental balls are still hosted in the main
function rooms, while upstairs are the army’s library, offices
and classrooms for officer instruction.
Casa Presei Libere (Casa Scânteii) A-1, Piata
Presei Libere 1. An impressive edifice standing somewhat
menacingly at the entrance to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as
it is still universally known) was designed by architect Horia
June - July 2011
72 What to see
A Little Romanian History
Romania BC The Danube basin first becomes rec-
ognizable as a genuine state under the leadership of
Burebista (82-44BC), whose empire of Geto-Dacians
comprehended the fairest parts of western Wallachia,
Transylvania and the Banat.
The Roman Years The Geto-Dacians are defeated after
two campaigns (101-102AD and 105-106AD) by a Roman
Empire about to reach its zenith under Emperor Trajan.
The Geto-Dacian kingdom becomes the Roman province
of Dacia. The Romans are abandon Dacia in 271AD after
repeated Goth attacks.
The Middle Ages After repeated invasions by Goths,
Pechenegs and Cumans,the Magyars emerge as the
dominating force in Transylvania at the end of the elev-
enth century, and the province becomes part of the Hun-
garian Empire. Many ethnic Romanians withdraw to the
Danube basin, where Basarab (c. 1310-1352) creates
the principality of Wallachia. Moldavia also becomes an
independent principality after Bogdan of Cuhea defeats a
Hungarian army during the winter of 1364-1365.
The 15th Century Mircea Cel Batran (1368-1418), Vlad
Tepes (1430-1476), and Stefan Cel Mare (1457-1504) all
fight, on separate occasions, and defeat, the invading
armies of the Ottoman Empire.
The 16th Century After the death of Stefan Cel Mare
(1504), Moldavia and Wallachia are eventually forced
to accept Ottoman suzerainty, and when Hungary is
defeated by the Turks at the Battle of Mohacs in 1526,
Romania finds itself entirely at the behest of the Sub-
lime Porte. In 1600 Mihai Bravu briefly unites the three
principalities after defeating the Turks at Calugareni, but
the new state survives less than a year.
The 17th Century While Transylvania is freed of Ot-
toman domination by the Hapsburg empire, Turkish
repression continues in Wallachia and Moldavia with the
installation of Phanariot (Greek) client rule.
The 18th Century As the Turkish Empire crumbles
throughout the region, so the Russian and Hapsburg
Empires fill the void. The Austrians, while not entirely be-
nevolent, do bring Transylvania’s provinces economically
and politically in to line with the rest of Europe.
The 19th Century Russia annexes the region of
Bessarabia (eastern Moldavia) in 1812 and keeps hold
of it for the next 100 or so years. Moldavia and Wallachia
finally achieve complete independence from Ottoman
rule after the First Russo-Turkish War in 1829. Revolu-
tion grips the country in 1848 with the call to see major
economic and social changes. In 1859, Wallachia and
Moldavia are unified when Alexandru Ioan Cuza is elected
prince of both principalities. At the end of the Second
Russo-Turkish War in 1878, Romania is recognised as
a bona fide nation by the Great Powers. Prince Karl of
Prussia is crowned King Carol of Romania in 1881.
The Early 20th Century King Carol dies in 1914 and his
nephew, Ferdinand I, becomes King of Romania. Transyl-
vania officially becomes part of Romania on December 1,
today celebrated as the country’s national holiday.
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Maicu and completed in 1956, one year after the strikingly
similar Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland.
Originally housing the editorial offices of almost all of the
capital’s newspapers, it today carries out pretty much the
same function. Jurnalul Naţional, one of the country’s most
popular dailies, is just one newspaper still produced here. The
impressive archive of Rompres, the state press and photo
agency, is also housed here.
CEC (Palatul Casei de Economii si Consemnaţiuni)
B-4, Calea Victoriei 13. The home of the National Savings
Bank is one of the most fabulous Neo-Classical facades in
the city: the enormous arch that houses the entrance, with its
mighty Corinthian columns, is a highlight of any architectural
tour of the city. Built during the last decade of the nineteenth
century, to the designs of French architect Paul Gottereanu,
the building is alas less impressive on the inside. Admire from
outside and move on.
Palatul Victoriei B-4, B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victo-
riei. Today the home of the Romanian government, this linear
construction, with its marble facade, was built in 1937 to the
designs of Duiliu Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry
(which is now elsewhere, on Aleea Alexandru, in far less grand
building). Note that entrance to the building is granted only to
those on government business, and to the various groups of
protesters who gather here almost daily to argue their case.
Palatul Justitiei (Tribunalul Capitalei) B-6, Splalul
Independentei 5, MPiata Unirii. Romania’s supreme court,
host to any number of libel trials involving our good selves,
is housed in a monumental but rather run down building on
the banks of the Dambovita. Dating from 1890, the Palace
of Justice was designed by Romanian architect Adrian Ballu in
the style of the French renaissance. The recently remonaved,
and impressive facade is almost 100 metres long.
Sala Palatului B-5, Piata Palatului, www.salapalatului.
ro. The rather startling Sala Palatului, with its concaved roof,
was designed by Tiberiu Ricci (also responsible for the TVR
building) and built in 15 months from January 1959 to April
1960. The massive auditorium, which seats 3,000, was origi-
nally used to host the five-yearly communist party congress.
It today plays host to exhibitions and concerts.
Spitalul Coltea (Coltea Hospital) C-6, B-dul. I. C.
Bratianu 1. The oldest hospital in Bucharest, dating from
1704, Coltea was built on land belonging to the Vacaresti
family, who at the time owned great swathes of the capital.
The original building was destroyed by an earthquake in
1802, and the Neo-Classical building we see today in fact
dates from 1888. It remains a working hospital, and is cur-
rently being completely renovated: when finished, it is going
to look fabulous. The small yet gorgeous church in front of
the hospital dates from 1702. Restored two years ago, it is
well worth a look inside.
Teatrul National (National Theatre) C-5, Piata 21
Decembrie 1989, MUniversitate. A building in two parts, the
original National Theatre was built between 1967 and 1970, to
the design of three Romanian architects, Horia Maicu, Romeo
Belea and Nicolae Cucu. Originally styled to honour the archi-
tecture of Moldova’s famous monasteries, it was unfortunately
ruined in 1984-5 when the concrete casing that now stands
gloomily in the shadow of the InterContinental was placed over
the earlier structure. Currently being renovated.
Universitate (University of Bucharest) C-5, Piata
Universitatii, MUniversitate. Standing moodily over Piata
Universitatii is the main building of the University of Bucharest.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

It was built over a twelve year period from 1857 to 1869 at the
behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time Prince of Romania. It
originally housed three faculties (Law, Humanities and Science),
but today houses just the Faculty of Letters and Langauges, as
well as the university’s administrative departments.
Museums
Art Collection Museum (Muzeul Colectiilor de
Artă) B-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021 212 96 41/
(+4) 021 212 96 42. The Casa Romanit was constructed
in 1822 as a private residence, before being bought by the
state in 1883 to serve as the country’s supreme court.
After the communist takeover in the 1940s it was used as
a dumping ground for the collections of wealthy Romanians
not allowed to retain their art by the regime. There are some
fantastic works on show, including paintings by all of Roma-
nia’s greatest artists, from Nicolae Grigorescu to Theodor
Pallady. In terms of artistic importance the collections here
are second only to those at the National Museum of Art.
Q Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei,
students/children 3.50 lei.
Cotroceni Museum B-dul Geniului 1, tel. (+4) 021 317 31
07, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro. Constructed from 1888-93 at
the behest of Romania’s first king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace is the
official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site of
a former monastery, the palace was designed by a French team
of architects, led by Paul Gottereau, and would form something
of a blueprint for Romanian domestic architecture for years to
come.QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 12.00
lei, students and children 6.00 lei. Visits and tours (available in
Romanian, French and English) are by appointment only.
Geology Museum B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, tel. (+4) 021
212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Far more than just a collec-
tion of old rocks and fossils, Bucharest’s Geology Museum
is one of the city’s must sees. First off, there is the museum
building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders of King
Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian
For Jewish Bucharest, see
page 46. For the city’s most
historic churches,
see page 50.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
What to see 73
Geology Society, the building is a splendid example of Neo-
Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than
its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum.QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Admission 6.00 lei, students and children 3.00 lei.
History Museum (Muzeul National de Istorie) C-5,
Calea Victoriei 12, tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07, www.mnir.ro.
The Neo-Classical building that houses Romania’s National His-
tory Museum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs
of Alexandru Săvulescu. It originally served as the headquarters
of Poşta Romană, the Romanian postal service. The History
Museum moved here in 1970. The museum’s exhibitions
include a fine collection of antiquities. Q Open 09:00-17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei, students and children 2 lei.
Free entrance every 26th day of the month.
Minovici Museum of Ancient Western Art (Muzeul
Minovici) Str. Dr. Minovici 3, tel. (+4) 021 665 73 34,
www.minovici.ro. This amazing red brick, mock Tudor
house holds the small and dusty renaissance art collection
of Dumitru Minovici, who made barrels of lei in the oil business
in the 1930s. Inside are fine collections of Belgian tapestries,
Dutch furniture, Swiss stained glass, a complete library and
Italian paintings from the 16th/17th centuries. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission 1.50 lei, students
and children 0.50 lei.
National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC;
Muzeul National de Arta Contemporana) B-6, Calea
13 Septembrie 1, entrance E4 (Palatul Parlamentului),
tel. (+4) 021 318 91 37, www.mnac.ro. Making excellent
use of the wide open spaces on the Parliament Palace, this
vast gallery displays the work of Romania’s finest contempo-
rary artists. There are also works on display by international
artists, and regular topical exhibitions. The museum has a
great cafe, and if the weather is good enough its terrace of-
fers fantastic views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei.
Theodor Pallady Museum (Casa Melik, Muzeul
Theodor Pallady) D-5, Str. Spătarului 22, tel. (+4)
021 211 49 79. Theodor Pallady (1871-1953) was an early
Cubist artist widely regarded as Romania’s most influential
20th-century painter. Alas the small museum that today bears
his name has only six of his paintings, a couple of his sketches
and assorted other art. The museum’s saving grace is the
house in which it is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest. Originally
called the Casa Melik, it was built around 1750 by the rich
Armenian Hagi Kevork Nazaretoglu. Walk over the enchant-
ingly creaky wooden floors and admire the decorated tavane
(ceilings). Q Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
5.00 lei, students and children 2.50 lei.
June - July 2011
74 OLD TOWN
OLD TOWN
While much of Bucharest has changed beyond recognition
over the past two decades, nothing compares to the recent
transformation of Old Town/Lipscani, which in the past
two years has turned what was very much a no-go area with
almost nothing to offer into the Romanian capital’s liveliest
entertainment district.
The area is still something of a work in progress (a number
of streets are currently being resurfaced) but it’s a rewarding
place to explore, one of the few areas of the capital that is.
You will certainly not want for things to do, to see, or for places
to eat, drink and dance.
Old Town: A Brief History
The area of Bucharest described by the Dambovita river to
the south, Calea Victoriei to the west, Bulevardul Brătianu
to the east and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta to the north is
more or less all that’s left of pre-World War II Bucharest. What
the war didn’t destroy (and it destroyed a fair bit: allied bombing
was fierce during the early part of 1944) communism did, most
notably in the form of the grandiose Civic Centre project
(see box on page 42) that saw almost a fifth of the total area
of the city flattened to make way for Bulevardul Unirii and
Casa Poporului. That anything survives at all is little short of
a miracle. While we at Bucharest In Your Pocket tend to call
the area Old Town, many will know it better as Lipscani, with
Bucharest In Your Pocket
most locals calling it the Centru Istoric (Historic Centre).
The area is historic in the main because this is where
Bucharest was founded. Kind of. According to legend, Bucur
the Shepherd founded the city in the 1300s, when he built
a church somewhere on the eastern bank of the Dâmboviţa
river: nobody is sure exactly where this church was (or even if
it actually existed). What we do know is that by the first reign
of Vlad Ţepeş (1459-1462) there was a palace and court (the
Palatul Curtea Veche) in the area we today call Old Town,
and that the city grew quickly around the palace. By the middle
of the 17th century the area was Bucharest’s merchant district,
which it to all intents and purposes remained until the end of
World War II, when many of the rightful owners of the houses
and businesses which lined the area’s streets were arrested by
the communist authorities, and their property confiscated and
left to rot. The entire area - viewed as being far too bourgeois
for communist tastes - was then neglected for decades, with
many of the empty buildings being occupied over the years
(legally or otherwise) by Gypsies. Many of these Gypsies
remain today, and add real character and colour to the area.
Old Town’s Sights
The best place to start any exploration of Old Town is at
Unversitate, at the twin semi-circular buildings opposite
the university. The buildings (one is a bank and the other
houses a casino) were originally built (in 1906) to serve as the
headquarters of Romania’s largest insurance company. The
fenced-off area in front of them will one day be an underground
car park. Archaeological finds however - including the remains
of inns, houses and shops - have brought excavation and
building work to a halt. Best then to leave the building work
behind you and head into Old Town proper: the first sight that
will probably grab your attention (it will be difficult to miss it) is
the colourful St. Nicholas (Students’) Church.
Built in 1905-09 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from
Tsar Alexander II, this orthodox church is topped with seven
typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox
cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasmă)
is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in
Moscow’s Kremlin. On your right as you exit the church - at the
end of the street - is the Neo-Gothic Şuţu Palace, home of
the Museum of the History of Bucharest (Muzeul de Istorie
al Municipiului Bucureşti; Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.50
lei), a rather bland exhibition of neolithic artifacts uncovered
from around the city and the region. The palace was built
from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant Costache Şuţu. Old
postcards and costumes depict life in the Romanian capital
in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
Retrace your steps past the Russian Church and you will
come to the Czech Cultural Centre (Ceske Centrum), a
lively hive of cultural activity which has regular film screenings
and exhibitions and (for the brave) Czech language courses.
Carry on to the far end of Str. Ion Ghica and you will see in
front of you the unmistakably Neo-Classical exterior of the
National Bank of Romania (BNR). It stands on the site of one
of the most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban
Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various
things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby girl’s
school. After two fires gutted the building however, the land
was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR, completed
to the designs of French architects Cassien Bernard and
Albert Galleron in 1885. Built in a French, Neo-Classical style,
the building boasts a facade with Corinthian columns, and an
enormous central banking hall. The passing of time has seen
the building become rather hemmed in, but it remains a classic
worthy of admiration. On the bank’s far side (on Str. Lipscani)
look out for the remains of another 17th century inn: visible
below street level through hardened glass.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Str. Lipscani gets its name from the large number of
traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought
from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trading
posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial
street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the whole
area. Ironically - its name and history aside - modern Str.
Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does have
some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre. It
also has some hidden treasure: if you walk through the little
alley opposite Str. Selari (an alley now packed with cafes
and bars) you will come to Str. Blanari, home to the St.
Nicolas Church. The church was built in the 1880s as a
private chapel for Romania’s first royal couple: Note that the
king and queen still have special seats on the left and right
of the church’s 18th century icon kept for them should they
ever return. The icon itself is said by churchgoers to have
magical healing powers.
Back on Str. Lipscani, the Hanul cu Tei is a wonderful
courtyard (once part of a large inn) which today houses art
galleries, antique shops, second-hand book shops, gift
shops, studios and portrait artists, as well as a lively terrace
and bar/restaurant.
Retrace your steps to the National Bank, and head for
Str. Stavropoleos, named for the eponymous church found
along its length (Biserica Stavropoleos; Open 08:30 -
18:00. Services (in Romanian) on Sunday at 09:30, 10:30).
The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a Greek
monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas, and is currently under going
some much-needed restoration. It is characterized by its
beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest are
on the main doors. The courtyard outside (beautiful on a
warm afternoon) has a curious collection of tombstones
dating from the 18th century, and you might often see
skilled craftsmen working on restoring them.
For a beer, coffee, bite to eat or simple jaw dropping
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
old town 75
experience (the interior is astonishing) head for Caru cu Bere,
a beer hall and restaurant dating from 1875. It is on the other
side of the road to the church a little further up. Church fans
might also want to venture out on to Calea Victoriei. A few
steps to the right is the Mother of God Church (Biserica
Doamnei) built in the late 17th century on the orders of
Princess Maria, wife of Prince Serban Cantacuzino. The church
was the first in the city to boast octagonal stone pillars: note
the decorative floral motifs of oriental origin at the foot and
top of each column. They also decorate the door. The ornate
building on the other side of the road is the headquarters of
CEC, the national savings bank, while the Neo-Classical giant
facing it is the National History Museum.
On the far side of the museum is Str. Franceza, another
Old Town street now blessed with more restaurants, cafes,
bars and such like than you could wish for. About half way
along look out for the Sf. Dumitru Church: Sf. Dumitru is the
patron saint of Bucharest. On the other side of the church is
Bucharest’s comedy theatre.
The busiest street in the Lipscani area is Str. Smardan,
home today to any number of bars, pubs, cafes and
restaurants, and which when the weather is good just looks
like one huge terrace. History buffs might like to know that
in January 1859 at No. 42 (then the Hotel Concordia),
Wallachian deputies elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as their
Prince. As Moldavian deputies had already done likewise a
week earlier, the election that took place here created the first
unified Romanian state since Mihai Bravu’s short-lived reign
of 1600. There was a plaque marking the spot until recently,
yet building work has (we hope temporarily) covered it up.
At the bottom of Str. Smardan a narrow walkway allows
you to reach the birthplace of Bucharest, the Old Court Palace
and Church (Palatul şi Biserica Curtea Veche; Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon).
The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of the
June - July 2011
 old town 77

15th-century by Vlad Ţepeş, was considerably extended during

the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later,
this time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu, who added
a splendid voievodal palace, decorated with marble and icons.
The palace was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in
the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much
of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological
digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins were
first opened as a museum. There are fragments of the original
15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal palace
throne room, in which most of the relics found on the site are
exhibited. Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church, the
oldest in Bucharest, dating from 1545. It was enlarged in 1715,
during the reign of Ştefan Cantacuzino, and the frescoes inside,
painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Mişu Papa, were
added in 1847. The church’s exterior was recently renovated,
and it looks better than ever.
Looking anything but its best is the Hanul lui Manuc
opposite. Built in 1808 it remained operational as a hotel
and restaurant until just a few years ago, when - after a long
and often ugly legal battle - the Romanian state was obliged
to return it to the descendants of its original owners. It has yet
to be fully renovated or reopened.

Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse
Today packed with cafes - most of which offer hookah pipes
and exotic tobaccos - Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse was built in
1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei – then the busiest
street in the city – and the National Bank. It is named for a
Catalan architect, Xavier Villacrosse, who from 1840-50 was
the chief architect of Bucharest, and Mihalache Macca, son-in-
law of the building’s architect, Felix Xenopol. It is covered with
an arcade yellow glass roof to allow natural light, also intended
to encourage commerce at street level; In other words, this
was Bucharest’s first shopping mall. During the communist
period the passage was known by the name Pasajul Bijuteriei
(Jewellery Passage) and hosted the city’s largest jewellers. Its
original name was restored in 1990.
Old Town Cafés
Cafe des Beaux Arts C-6, Str. Franceza 7, tel. (+4)
021 310 86 44/(+4) 0720 69 23 65. Puts almost every
other café in the area to shame. This tiny little place suc-
ceeds in being the perfect Parisian café without even trying.
It does so instead by keeping it simple and offering good
coffee, good company, good service and a sense of the good
life. The owners are art lovers -as the name suggests - and
artistic flair screams at you from every wall. A must. QOpen
16:00 - 02:00. PJB
Caffe Gelato C-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, tel. (+4) 0732
00 88 88, www.caffegelatobucuresti.ro. Just about the
best ice cream parlour in Bucharest right now, mainly because
of the fact that it sells its own ice cream, not that of Betty
Ice, which appears to have something of a monopoly on the
frozen stuff this year. Find it at the bottom of Strada Smardan.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJB
Cafeneaua Carada C-6, Str. Eugeniu Carada 5-7,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0766 35 86 54, cafeneaua.
carada@ymail.com. Large, impressive new cafe next to
Romania’s national bank, where the big windows looking out
onto one of the city’s few busy pedestrian streets are what
will have you heading inside. Great coffee and cocktails, it is
the perfect meeting place and works well as either coffee
house or bar. Add in a gallery (what you see is on sale) and
you have the kind of place Bucharest really needs. QOpen
09:30 - 24:00. PJABSW
Chocolat C-5, Calea Victoriei 12A, tel. (+4) 021 314
92 45, contact@chocolat.com.ro, www.chocolat.com.
ro. Hard to pin this place down. Is it a cafe serving chocolate,
or a chocolate shop serving a little coffee? In fact, it is neither.
It is a brilliant restaurant serving delicious, well priced light
meals (soups, pasta, salad) of a French and Italian bent. There
is chocolate of course - loads of it - as well as more kinds of
gourmet bread than we could possible list. Find it next to Caru
cu Bere. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. Also
at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 13, tel. (+4) 021 230 23 83 and (D-4)
Calea Mosilor 217, tel. (+4) 021 211 44 64. JA
DDB Caffe C-6, Str. Blanari 12, tel. (+4) 0766 34 73
71/0729.6249 91, ddbcaffe@yahoo.com, www.ddb-
caffe.ro. A bright, modern cafe in Bucharest’s Old Town. As
new as a shiny button expect some of the city’s best home-
made lemonade - at a decent prize, we hasten to add - as well
as a raft of other drinks. Good company usually guaranteed.
All in all, a winner. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00,
Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. PJBS
French Bakery C-6, Str. Smardan 13, tel. (+4) 021 316
10 27/(+4) 0726 59 84 42, www.frenchbakery.ro. It had
to happen. Bucharest’s smartest chain of bakeries comes
to Old Town, complete with its fine selection of sandwiches,
delicious tarts and cakes, great coffee and a super, covered
(at this time of year) terrace outside on the sexiest part of
Old Town. Could be just about the best place in Bucharest for
coffee, regardless of the time of day. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 09:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Also at a number
of other locations around the city. PJBSW
Gio Cafe C-5, Str. Toma Caragiu 3, tel. (+4) 021 313
97 40/(+4) 0730 03 07 64, universitate@giocafe.ro,
www.giocafe.ro. Popular with business types in the morn-

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

78 old town
ings, who come here to talk big numbers over coffee and
pastries, as the day moves on the clientele gets just a little
younger and just a little hipper. Not merely a very nice cafe in
which to spend time, Gio offers far more, including what we
think is Bucharest’s only fondue: you can indulge cheese or
chocolate dipping delights here. There is another big, colorful
and vibrant Gio Cafe on P-ta Alba Iulia. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Also at (E-6) B-dul Burebista 2, tel.
(+4) 0730 03 07 64, Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
24:00. PJABW
Grand Cafe Van Gogh C-6, Str. Smardan 9, tel. (+4)
031 107 63 71, info@vangogh.ro, www.vangogh.ro.
Amazing how quickly this place became the default Bucharest
‘meet you there’ venue. Its genius is that it’s ideal at every
time of day: morning coffee sat in front of one of the long
windows or out on the terrace, a business lunch at one of
the wooden tables, a meal and a late night at the bar. The
food is good - simple and very reasonably priced - and this
Dutch owned, friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more
than once. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
Wine&Art Bar Open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -24:00.
PJABSW
Klein Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 11, tel. (+4) 021 313
93 15/(+4) 021 313 93 16, info@rembrandt.ro, www.
rembrandt.ro. Small but lively cafe situated on the mez-
zanine floor of the Rembrandt hotel. Worthy of note for its
non-smoking policy and bizarrely comfortable leather chairs.
The place is now also open for outside guests every morning,
so they can enjoy a fresh breakfast buffet. Q Open 07:00 -
10:00, 12:00 - 22:00. PJAGW
Leonidas C-6, Str. Doamnei 27, tel. (+4) 021 314 13
77/(+4) 0723 18 02 68, info@leonidas-mb.ro, www.
leonidas-mb.ro. What started as (the city’s best) choclat-
erie selling fine Belgian chocolates, pralines and marzipans
in a variety of wonderful guises has over the years become
far more: it is now a wonderful cafe too, where you can enjoy
the caramels and liqeurs and such like in peace and quiet
and in the company of fine coffee. You would expect them to
serve an exemplary hot chocolate, and they of course do not
disappoint. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed
Sun. PJAVBSW
Les Bourgeois C-6, Str. Smardan 20, tel. (+4) 021 310
60 52/(+4) 0720 13 29 94, office@lesbourgeois.ro,
www.lesbourgeois.ro. A fantastic cafe, bar and restaurant
on a street now full of them: Strada Smardan. Whisper it, but
this might just be the best of the lot. The corner location gives
it an imposing quality from outside, while the interior is a bril-
liant mix of old and new: the way they have worked the sepia
photo of Centru Vechi into the bar is little short of genius. Go
now and stay late. You can eat drink and be very merry here.
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PJABSW
The Coffee Store C-5, Str. Toma Caragiu 3, tel. (+4)
0749 99 63 88, www.thecoffeestore.ro. Modern espres-
so bar on the edge of Old Town, just behind Piata Universitatii.
Zillions of different coffees on the menu, displayed in what
could be called genuine Italian style with prices above the
counter. Opens early, so it’s a good morning coffee choice.
Q Open 07:30 - 24:00. PJAW
Unique Bistro Cafe C-6, Str. Franceza 13, tel. (+4) 021
311 00 50/(+4) 0721 07 79 25, bistro@hotelunique.ro.
Coffee, tea (a vast selection) and cocktails on Str. Franceza
in Old Town. It is at its best in the warmer months when you
can sit outside on the terrace (of all the terraces in Lipscani
it has perhaps the comfiest chairs, if you can bag one), while
Bucharest In Your Pocket
when the weather is a bit chilly head inside. It can be a bit
smoky when it gets full so be warned. Other than that, we
recommend it, if only because prices are good for Old Town.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PJAEBW
Valea Regilor B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20 (Pasajul Vil-
lacrosse), tel. (+4) 021 311 29 69, (+4) 0762 52 07
10. Thick Turkish coffee served in one of Calea Victoriei’s
grand old passages. Alongside the coffee and cakes - sweet
and sickly but irresistible - you can also get you hands on a
Nargile, those Turkish water pipes that offer an allegedly much
healthier way to smoke tobacco. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat
16:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PJB
Vibe Cafe C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 3, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0722 67 77 77, office@vibecafe.ro, www.vibecafe.ro. A
very purple cafe at the edge of Old Town, the closest Old Town
venue to Universitate, in fact. Coffee, hot chocolate (which is
very good), cocktails and a well-dressed, well made-up bunch
of trendy young locals looking to see and be seen. There is
a club downstairs, open late on Friday and Saturday nights.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PJNBW
Old Town Restaurants
Brauhaus C-6, Str. Smardan 41, tel. (+4) 0725 52 30
81. If you like a tasty bit of German sausage (and let’s face it,
who doesn’t?) then this is the place to head for if you are in Old
Town. There is much else besides on the menu, however, and
if you add in tremendous beer, good prices and a terrace out
on the street you have another reason to hail Strada Smardan
as the city’s top entertainment street. Worth checking out.
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. €€ PJAVBSW
Caru’ cu Bere C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, tel. (+4) 021
313 75 60, www.carucubere.ro. Should be the first stop
on the list of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful interiors
- painted ceilings, ornate woodwork - make the place an at-
traction in itself, but do not leave without trying some food.
The breakfast is worth getting up early for, the sarmale with
mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple, tasty treat.
Good beer, good service (now: it never used to be) and a
great terrace. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
€€€. AEBSW
Charme C-6, Str. Smardan 12, tel. (+4) 021 311 19 22,
www.charme.ro. Some of the finest food in Old Town, served
in one of the most elegant and classiest locations around.
Check out the nice little touches such as high quality bread
and olives, the high ceilings and airy atmosphere, then order
some fine, light Californian-inspired cuisine. It’s a winner from
start to finish. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
€€€€. JABSW
City Grill C-6, Str. Lipscani 12, tel. (+4) 0729 62 62
62, www.citygrill.ro. They call these places ‘your dining
room in the city,’ and given the homely food and cheap prices
(the lunchtime deals are just about unbeatable) they might
just be right. Don’t expect haute cuisine, but do expect big
portions of simple Romanian food. We like the carnati de
plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made with mutton and pork.
There’s a good selection of local beers to choose from too.
Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. Also at (B-2)
B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and many other
locations. €€. PJABW
Divan C-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, tel. (+4) 021 312 30
34, www.thedivan.ro. From the Middle Eastern atmosphere
and superb decor to the great service, Divan is a lesson in
creating a good restaurant. The food is good value Turkish/
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
80 old town
Middle Eastern, with a couple of Romanian dishes thrown on
the menu for the less adventurous. They will cook you a whole
lamb (790 lei) if you give them 24 hours notice. We opted for
the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good they
were too. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. €€€. PJAEBW

Embassy Hanul cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65,

tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03, www.embassy-hanulcutei.
ro. Making good use of the courtyard of Hanul cu Tei,
always one of our favourite parts of Lipscani, Embassy is
a terrace (soon to be joined by a lounge that will be open
year-round) Embassy serves food and drink to an older,
wiser crowd than elsewhere in Old Town. Q Open 10:00 -
03:00. €€. JABSW

Freddo C-6, Str. Smardan 24, tel. (+4) 0722 37 33

36, www.freddo.ro. The biggest, boldest place on Strada
Smardan. Smart too: when it started raining we were about
to run for cover only for the roof to be extended, keeping us
all dry. Impressive. We are told that during winter it will be
fully enclosed and will remain open. Nice one. For now get
there and enjoy sound cocktails, pizza and decent salads:
and note you can enjoy it all at proper, big wooden tables.
QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. €€€. JENBW
Il Peccato C-6, Str. Franceza 30, tel. (+4) 021 310 90
13/(+4) 0758 10 50 27, contact@ilpeccato.ro, www.
ilpeccato.ro. It shouldn’t take too long to find this place: it is
the restaurant with a motorbike in a glass display box parked
outside. Really. Inside it is a well-decorated and comfortable
venue, worthy of your time, serving standard Italian food of
the pizza, pasta variety, Has an excellent selection of Italian
wines and the terrace is a great place to sit and enjoy a decent
bottle or two. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 18:00 - 01:00. €€€.
PJABSW
La Bonne Bouche C-6, Str. Franceza 30, tel. (+4) 0731
24 78 76, www.bistrovin.ro. Does what it does - simple
French bistro food - better than anywhere else in the city.
Try the sublime onion soup, calves liver with sage and garlic
mash and the lemon meringue pie. Look for the chef’s spe-
cials too. An open kitchen is always a good sign, and we love
the variety of reading material in the toilets. Just a brilliantly
simple place. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 18:30 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. Wine Bar open 12:00 - 02:30. €€€€.
PJALBSW

Malagamba C-6, Str. Sf. Dumitru 2, tel. (+4) 021 313 33

89/(+4) 0748 50 25 43, office@malagamba.ro, www.
malagamba.ro. What a name, what a place. An Italian (with
a twist) restaurant of the old school (in that the food is what
counts first and foremost), this Irish-owned eatery next to
the Comedy Theatre is terrific. Wanting to stand out from
the crowd the team behind it have gone to great lengths to
do so, coming up with all sorts of treats, such the as lime and
basil sorbet: already a legend amongst Bucharest foodies.
Malagamba by the way was a Romanian musician, composer
and director who frequented these parts in the 1930s and
40s. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. €€. PJAVBSW

Red Angus Steakhouse C-6, Str. Franceza 56, MP-ta

Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 03 83, contact@redangus.ro,
www.redangus.ro. Does exactly what the name suggests:
serves great steaks to customers who like their meat cooked
to order. The steaks come from all over the world, from the US
to New Zealand, and there is more than just classic steaks
(like the Rib-Eye): there are great baby back ribs too, a mag-
nificent burger, and the desserts - if you still have room after
a big meaty feast - are well worth trying, not least the lemon
merengue pie. And they have a children’s menu. Admirable.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PJAVSW

Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 old town 81

St. George C-6, Str. Franceză 44, tel. (+4) 021 317
10 87/(+4) 0747 11 10 00, rezervare@stgeorge.ro,
www.stgeorge.ro. This has long been one of our favourite
restaurants, a place that had the vision to open up a good
year or two before Old Town became fashionable. The food
is excellent, authentic Hungarian cuisine, featuring a wealth
great dishes - try the mutton stew with dumplings - and a
wine list that offers the very best Hungary’s vineyards have
to offer. Cracking open a bottle of Tokaji Aszu is the perfect
way to end an evening here. Live music is provided by a happy,
table wandering troupe every night. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
€€€. PJAEBSW

Sindbad C-6, Str. Lipscani 19, tel. (+4) 021 317 77 88,
www.restaurantsindbad.ro. New Lebanese restaurant in
Old Town serving what might just be the best lentil soup in
Bucharest. Fabulous fresh bread too (made on site) and a de-
cent range of mutton dishes as main courses. There’s both an
exterior and interior terrace, and the decor is vaguely Middle
Eastern without over-doing it. We liked the comfy chairs.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PJAVBSW
The Barrel British Restaurant C-6, Str. Smardan 27,
MP-ta Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 41 26 46, office@thebarrel.
ro, www.thebarrel.ro. Pub serving food, or restaurant
serving drinks? We will go for the former. This good Smardan
venue has far more the feel of a pub than anything else, but
there is plenty of food on offer. The menu is certainly Brit-
ish inspired, offering fair Fish & Chips, Shepherd’s Pie and
jacket spuds amongst much else. They also have Newcastle
Brown and Strongbow on offer, but neither on tap. A Union
Jack above the bar reminds you of the British connection.
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 06:00. €€.
PJAEBSW
Colorteca C-6, Str. Lipscani 43, tel. (+4) 0751 26 82
Van Gogh Wine Bar & Shop 45, colorteca@ymail.com. Super little bar in a narrow
C-6, Str. Smardan 9, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, info@ Lipscani passage that it is home to a surprisingly large
vangogh.ro, www.vangogh.ro. Just walking down the number of speakeasies. This one could well be our favourite,
stairs from Van Gogh Grand Café you will find a century-old not least because of the colourful decor, very late opening
vault room. Here you can enjoy great Romanian and foreign hours and cheerful bar staff. Usually a good crowd in sipping
wines complimented by a selection of fine Dutch cheeses. pre-club drinks, although - like us - many tend to stay here
All in an exclusively non-smoking space that enhances the the whole evening. It’s that kind of place. QOpen 15:00 -
tasting experience. All wines available for sale with delivery 05:00. PJNW
options. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PJGBSW Deko Cafe
C-6, Str. Smardan 30, tel. (+4) 0733 10 22 88, rezervari.
deko@gmail.com, www.dekocafe.ro. Up a rather tricky
Old Town Bars flight of stairs inside a house at the bottom end of Strada
Atelier Mecanic C-6, Str. Covaci 12, tel. (+4) 0726 Smardan, Cafe Deko is a comedy club that features live
76 76 11. You will like it the minute you walk in the door. stand-up (almost always in Romania, of course) most nights
Perhaps even before that. Old Town has needed something of the week. Entrance is usually a pittance, and the friendly
a bit different for a while, and this place is it. A modernist, crowd usually stays behind after the show for a chat and a
minimalist bar/cafe where every chair and table is different. beer or two. If you have one too many make sure you mind
The price of beer is good, and they serve a variety of wines those stairs on the way down. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. Closed
by the glass. There is food, too. Brilliantly simple it is anti-fitze Mon. PJNW
Bucharest at its best and as a result you can expect to see
us here often. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - Interbelic C-6, Str. Selari 1, tel. (+4) 0722 10 01 93,
05:00. PJABW www.interbelic.ro. A cosy little speakeasy in a well-hidden
location (find it in the alleyway which links Str. Blanari to Str.
Cantina Sport Bar Lipscani) and the perfect place to conduct all sorts of secret
C-6, Str. Franceza 52, tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64, www. business, affairs and anything else that springs to mind.
cantinasportbar.ro. On the southern tip of Old Town, where Drinks and coffees are reasonably priced, the staff are friendly
Strada Selari meets the river embankment, this enormous and it’s worth checking out: if only to show off to someone just
sports bar is a bright and breezy place to watch the match how well you know Bucharest and its backstreets. QOpen
and get your hands on some decent grub. Decent pizza costs 13:00 - 01:00. PJAW
very little, but most popular of all appears to be the pui la
rotisor, served up with copious amounts of beer. We like the Klein Bar & Bistro C-6, Str. Smardan 11, tel. (+4)
bar stools too. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Bar and bistro inside
PJLBSW the Rembrandt hotel. It’s a great place to enjoy a drink with
friends, and the location at the edge of Bucharest’s newly-

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

82 old town
formed pedestrian zone makes it a favourite for those looking
for something just a little more restful. Good bistro food too,
and like the hotel itself, everything comes at very reasonable
prices. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PJALG
Pals C-6, Str. Smardan 21, tel. (+4) 0727 24 36 40/
(+4) 0724 89 97 72. Another little place on Str. Smardan,
serving reasonably priced drinks and simple Romanian food
at prices a little more expensive than you might expect.
Loads of televisions just about everywhere should make it
popular for football and such like, while smokers get banished
upstairs: that gets them an extra mark in our book. Q Open
10:00 - 02:00. PJNB
Revenge C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 0722 33 12 26,
www.revenge.ro. It is the music that we like best about this
pub and club in the heart of the Lipscani area. A mix of every-
thing from the sublime to the ridiculous, it hardly matters that
you might not like what’s playing: you will not have to wait long
to hear an old favourite. Add in a casually-dressed, non-fitze
crowd and you have a winner. QOpen 17:00 - 07:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 08:30. PJNB
Shakespeare C-6, Str. Blanari 21, tel. (+4) 021 311
19 91/(+4) 0723 88 63 71, www.shakespearebar.ro.
A cracking new pub on Strada Blanari, right opposite the big
church, where from day one they appear to have got it right.
A bit spacier and a bit more comfortable than your average
Lipscani venue, expect to find comfy sofas in the windows,
strange but rather fetching art on the walls and decent staff
who know how to pull a decent beer. The crowd tends to be
studenty during the day, getting a bit smarter and sophis-
ticated as the evening wears on. We like it. QOpen 11:00
- 04:00. PJABW
Bucharest In Your Pocket
The Elbow Room C-6, Str. Lipscani 82, tel. (+4) 0752
55 09 86, www.elbowroom.ro. This little cafe is not big,
but it does have a decent amount of elbow room, and - what
we really like about it - alcoves at the windows stuffed with
cushions that you can sit on. That’s the kind of thing we look
out for, and which always gets a cafe top marks: thinking
outside the box (or window). And they play the music at a level
that allows you to talk to people at the same table without
shouting. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PJABW
The Little Bar C-6, Str. Smardan 14, tel. (+4) 0726 69
44 20. Little by name, little by nature. But we like little, and
this coquette bar on - where else - Str. Smardan is the kind
of place you can’t pass by without thinking ‘let’s pop in here
for a quick one’ It’s that kind of place: a quick primer before
heading off somewhere bigger. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PJNBW
Old Town Pubs
Boma Pub C-6, Str. Covaci 3, tel. (+4) 021 312 05 52,
www.bomapub.ro. Beer and very good pizza (and fair bit else
besides) in a rather nice setting on Strada Covaci, which, with
the recent opening of a few other decent places is quickly
becoming the new Lipscani street-to-be. Boma is a sweet
little place, decked out with wood and boasting perhaps the
comfiest chairs of any pub in the city. Drinks are well priced
and service comes with a smile. An excellent place for a liv-
ener or two. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. PJAVBSW
Bordello’s C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 0748 88
10 85/(+4) 021 317 90 99, info@bordellos.ro, www.
bordellos.ro. Always plenty going on here. From quiz nights
to live music, this is a great pub, complete with excellent
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

bar food, Heineken, Murphy’s and Paulaner on tap and Sky
Sports on four screens. Great food: tapas in the pub (the
ribs are just about the best we’ve ever had in Bucharest)
and more sophisticated fare in the restaurant bit. Why
Bordellos? Read the drinks menu and you will find out why.
You can’t miss this place by the way: just look for the ‘tarts’
in their underwear beckoning you in. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00,
Thu, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00.
PJAEBSW
Curtea Berarilor C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 021
313 75 32/(+4) 0723 27 96 20. Once upon a time the
whole of the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans -
especially glassmakers, from whence the name. Now only a
few survive and no less than four bars have opened here. This
one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea Berarilor
(Brewers’ Courtyard), though there is no brewing done on the
site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap pints, of which the
default option is Timisoreana. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PJSW
D’eight C-6, Str. Franceza 2-4, tel. (+4) 021 311 40
10/(+4) 0721 33 35 33, www.deight.ro. Serving a very
good pizza - and plenty more besides - this place is nice. Oc-
cupying the site of the old Picasso Cafe D’eight does far more
with the space, and does it much better. Has cleverly placed
the obligatory TV screens just so that if you do not want to
watch them, you do not have to. Other places should look and
learn. Comfy sofas, armchairs, good staff and a huge terrace:
perhaps the biggest in the Old Town. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 11:30 - 02:00. PJABSW
Elephant Pub & Live Music C-6, Str. Gabroveni 16,
tel. (+4) 021 311 22 67, events@elephantpub.ro, www.
elephantpub.ro. Live music pub and club that launches itself
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
old town 83
into direct competition with the more established Mojo next
door. Besides the music there are plenty of screens for watch-
ing sports and the like, the beer is well priced and the crowd
a very casually dressed mix of rockers in leather and rollers
in jeans. Make of it what you will. Q Open 15:00 - 02:00.
PJENBW
Gang Lads Pub
C-6, Str. Lipscani 66, tel. (+4) 0721 56 69 09, (+4) 0722
60 27 92, iancu.laur@gangladspub.ro, www.ganglads-
pub.ro. The opening night party at this new pub was one of
the wildest (and simply one of the best) Bucharest has seen
for some time. We hope that having set such a cracking
standard nothing will change. Early signs are good: this place
serves a decent pint of Guinness (on tap, note, unlike a few
other places in this town) and has regular live music. There’s
food too: of a somewhat overwhelming variety. Punches above
its weight this place; see you there. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
PJAEBSW
Le Drakkar Pub et Creperie
C-6, Str. Franceza 6, MP-ta Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312
40 13, www.ledrakkar.ro. Cafe and creperie on Strada
Franceza, boasting a decent terrace and staff who are friendly
despite being rushed off their feet. Specialises in gallettes:
those thin French pizzas that make a really nice change from
the Italian version. Bravo Le Drakkar for bringing them to
Bucharest. Occasional live music too. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
PJAEBSW
Oktoberfest C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32
33, oktoberfestpub@yahoo.com, www.oktoberfest-pub.
ro. Another pub opens its doors in the old inn at Selari 9-11,
doing its darn best to make Old Town/Lipscani a decent place
to spend some time. You will find the crowd more local than
June - July 2011
84 old town
Late Night Food
Bun de tot C-6, Str. Franceza 52, tel. (+4) 0733
11 04 64, www.bundetot.eu. The name means good
for everything and everything is what they have here,
from kebabs (which are OK) to hot dogs, burgers and
the like. Find it on the corner of Selari and the river at
the bottom of Old Town: it’s open 24 hours. Q Open
24 hrs. €. VN
Caruta Self C-6, Corner of Smardan/Lipscani. Why
didn’t we think of this first? A stall selling top snack food
at cracking prices on the corner of the most popular
nightlife streets in town. Sausages, soups, steaks, fries
and the like get served up in quick time by the top staff
for a never-ending gaggle of clubbers. Q Open 24 hrs.
€€. JN
Chicken Staff C-6, Str. Smardan 31. KFC on the
ground floor of Unirea closes at 23:00, so instead get
yourself here for your late night/early morning fried
chicken fix. Q Open 11:00 - 05:00. JN
Divan Express C-6, Str. Selari 19, tel. (+4) 021 310
15 62, www.divanexpress.ro. Probably the best of the
kebab joints that have sprung up to serve the Old Town
clubbing crowd. Serving much the same delicious food as
over at the main Divan restaurant (only at cheaper prices),
this take-away is very much the one to beat. The queues
speak for themselves. Q Open 24 hrs. €€. JS
La Painerie
C-6, Str. Smardan 43, tel. (+4) 0755 13 13 95,
office@lapainerie.ro, www.lapainerie.ro. Very much
the thinking man’s fast food outlet. Superior take-away
sandwiches and such like served in decent surroundings,
and open until late on Friday and Saturday nights. Q
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 -
24:00. Also at B-dul Mihai Bravu 107-119, tel. (+4) 0755
13 13 96. €€. J
McDonald’s C-6, P-ta Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping
Centre), www.mcdonalds.ro. The good news is Mc-
Donalds has finally brought breakfast to Romania, so that
much sought-after Sausage and Egg McMuffin can now
be yours at most central Bucharest McDonalds outlets.
But only until 10:00, alas. We do wish they would serve
them all day. Q Open 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00.
McDrive at (A-4) Str. Dr. Felix 8-10, (E-6) Sos. Mihai Bravu
307, Sos. Pierre de Coubertine 3-5, (C-3) Str. Barbu
Vacarescu 146-158 and Str. Brasov 23A all open 24hrs.
€. PTJG
foreign, never a bad thing, and they try to make something
happen every night, whether its football on the television or
impromptu drinking competitions. Students of all nationalities
will feel right at home. Q Open 24hrs. PJENB
Old City C-6, Str. Lipscani 45, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77
74, office@oldcity-lipscani.ro, www.oldcity-lipscani.
ro. Good pub on Lipscani with a huge beer garden out the
back. Serves very good cocktails (a sweet as you like mojito
went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket) and some pub
Bucharest In Your Pocket
grub that is far better than you would assume. The burger
was great: try it with the roast potatoes in fresh rosemary
for something a bit different. A big screen shows football
and the like. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 05:00.
PJALEW
Pub 41
C-6, Str. Smardan 41, 1st floor, tel. (+4) 0725 52 30
82, www.pub41.com. The do a very good mojito here,
and it’s well worth sinking a few before you try the helium
karaoke (which they have most Tuesday and Thursday
nights, a phenomenon now approaching quasi-legendary
status amongst the Old Town cognoscenti). There is plenty
of other live music at other times, from jazz to rock to
experimental bands you’ve never heard of. Well worth a
look. Q Open 18:00 - 05:00. PJAEW
S. A. L. T. C-6, Str. Blanari 21, tel. (+4) 021 314 22
14, www.saltpub.ro. S. A. L. T. stands for Societea de
Asigurare a Libertatii Tale (impossible to translate but
something along the lines of ‘The Society to Insure your
Freedom). So its Pseudsville, Tennessee, as in fact this is
little more than a sports bar serving decent salads, pizza
and finger food (chicken wings, etc.). If you judge a place
by the number of plasma screens it has, then you will like
it here. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
PJVSW
Team Pub
C-6, Str. Lipscani 36, tel. (+4) 0760 32 34 17, www.
teampub.ro. Decent enough pub on the corner of Lipscani
and Selari, with good proper bar stools and a decent range
of beers. Efficient waitresses in red tops serve the custom-
ers well. It’s popular too: first time we came here (just after
they had opened) it was empty: now (especially on a Friday
or Saturday night) you can barely get through the door for
revelers. Q Open 12:00 - 05:00. PJASW
The Legacy
C-6, Str. Lipscani 56, tel. (+4) 0726 13 08 59, contact@
thelegacy.ro, www.thelegacy.ro. One of our favourite
places to open on Strada Lipscani this year. Much bigger
than it looks from the outside, The Legacy is a lively pub
that serves good Romanian food, unfiltered beer on draught,
good cocktails and hosts lively events, parties and such like,
from karaoke to theme nights. Attracts a decent crowd of
young(ish) locals, and it is not in any way fitze. No sunglasses
required. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.
PJABW
Trinity College
C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 0747 50 75 07, contact@
trinitycollegepub.ro, www.trinitycollegepub.ro. Upmar-
ket burgers, tapas and the like served in an all-American
atmosphere to an (almost) all-Romanian crowd. Good ribs,
good pizza, good cocktails and Leffe on draught. Stays open
late, and at weekends often has DJs on duty to make sure
the music is good. Good terrace, QOpen 11:00 - 03:00.
PJASBW
Vintage Pub
C-6, Str. Smardan 43, tel. (+4) 0755 07 72 40/(+4)
0755 07 72 44, off ice@thevintagepub.ro, w w w.
thevintagepub.ro. Another freshly-opened Smardan drinking
den. And it’s not bad. Staff are incredibly hospitable, and the
interior décor is pub-ish without overdoing it. The Vintage
aspect is provided by the hanging of various antiques on
the walls. Cheapish drinks, salads, sandwiches and a big
terrace attract a young, studenty crowd. Q Open 10:30 -
06:00. PJEBW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Old Town Irish Pubs
Charlatans C-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 11-13, tel.
(+4) 0721 10 44 51, www.charlatans.ro. It’s officially
now raining Irish pubs in Bucharest. This latest of the genre
is found opposite Bucharest’s main university building, where
once was a cafe. It looks very much like the other Irish pubs
which have recently opened up, and in our book its biggest
asset is the wonderfully long bar (the down side of which is
the fact that the pub is not the widest in town). It has a decent
food menu and the pub grub is not bad at all: what is a fair
crack at fish and chips certainly warrants a mention. QOpen
08:00 - 02:00. PJEBW
O’Hara’s
C-6, Str. Franceza 13, tel. (+4) 0724 23 95 77. Amaz-
ingly, this place has already been around for two years.
(Feels like only yesterday that it opened). Expect a decent
pint of Guinness, live Irish music and a grand welcome from
some fine staff make this very much the thinking man’s Irish
pub in Bucharest. The Lipscani venue (on one of the area’s
pedestrian streets that has actually been finished) is a
bonus. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00.
PJENBW
Oscar’s C-6, Str. Covaci 19, tel. (+4) 021 310 32 61.
Settling down into a rhythm, the newest Irish pub in the
oldest part of town leaves others in its wake. Serves a top
Guinness - as you would expect - and offers great pub grub
(which has successfully made the switch from the Dubliner:
so expect the best chicken pie in town) and out back a raised
seating area that will have you cooing. All the right sports on
the television, hands-on management and the Larkin stamp
of approval. There’s live music sometimes too. Q Open
12:00 - 02:00. PJABW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
old town 85
St. Patrick C-6, Str. Smardan 23-25, tel. (+4) 021
313 03 36/(+4) 0749 99 63 77, st.patrick@bucharest-
irishpub.ro, www.bucharest-irishpub.ro. Big, well located
and quite frankly cracking pub in Lipscani. Looking every inch
just like a proper Irish boozer, it’s a real pub all right with decent
grub, Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, and more than efficient
staff. Shiny and new it’s a brilliant addition to the area and is
already as popular as any of the city’s other pubs. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00. PJABSW
The Gin Factory C-6, Str. Lipscani 37, tel. (+4) 021
311 38 36, reservations@theginfactory.ro, www.thegin-
factory.ro. Enormous and gorgeous, this is an Irish pub well
worth taking a drink in, not least for its very nice booths and
break-out areas perfect for private chats and the like. The
big bar is well-manned and it never takes long to get a drink
regardless of how busy it is, and even though it’s new it’s
already busy most nights. There’s a DJ on-site spinning tunes
of all sorts after about 8pm, and though the Guinness is only
by the bottle, they do have Ursus Black, so we can live with
that. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PJAEBW
Old Town Clubs & Discos
Arcade Cafe C-6, Str. Smardan 30, tel. (+4) 0727 25
70 22/(+4) 021 314 50 66, nycos2008@yahoo.com,
www.arcade-cafe.ro. One more reason to hail Strada
Smardan as the new Messiah of nightlife destinations. This
little place is a cool mix of cafe, DJ bar and deadly serious
club, though the music is always at the right volume and
never stifles conversation. Basically there are two parts to
this place: upstairs is the cafe (serving hot milk: our kids liked
it!) and downstairs is the club. The cafe is open from (around)
10am. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 03:00.
PJAEBW
June - July 2011
86 old town
Bastards C-6, Str. Lipscani 28, tel. (+4) 0745 76 48
42, www.bastards.ro. Is that really what it is called? Yes:
that is really what it is called. In a Lipscani basement, with
the walls stripped back to the red brick, this is a cocktail bar
and club where the mood is different every night. It could be
karaoke, it could be rock night, it could be DJ Andrei Nicolescu
spinning his old school electro tunes. Regardless of what is
going on you probably enjoy it. QOpen 17:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. PJEN
Chat Noir C-6, Str. Blanari 5, tel. (+4) 0740 10 07 97/
(+4) 0752 79 99 27, contact@clubchatnoir.ro, www.
clubchatnoir.ro. Club where a young crowd of locals dresses
well (especially the ladies) and dances to a very good if
sometimes strange mix of sounds until the very early morn-
ing. There are various other events too, such as Romanian
stand-up comedy and the like. You might want to check out
the excellent if eclectic artwork on the walls before you start
dancing. We have yet to find out if any of it is for sale! QOpen
18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. JAEBW
Club A C-6, Str. Blănari 14, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92,
office@cluba.ro, www.cluba.ro. Selling the cheapest Red
Bull vodka in the world, this place is a legend. If you want a
local, unpretentious, up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting
down to classic songs that you won’t have heard for ages,
this is the one place in town you can be guaranteed to find it,
every night of the week. Live music on most weekend nights,
as well as all sorts of events during the week, from theme
nights to theatre. QOpen 10:30 - 05:00, Fri 10:30 - 06:00,
Sat 21:00 - 06:00, Sun 17:00 - 05:00. PJENW
El Comandante C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 8, tel. (+4)
0728 55 50 43, www.elcomandante.ro. El Comandante
moves its mix of live music, a young, raucous but happy and
Bucharest In Your Pocket
welcoming crowd and general mayhem to the site of former
concept store Market 8. Drinks are well priced for the area
and there is always something going on. A decent bet for a
good night out any night of the week. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00.
PJAE
El Dictador C-6, Str. Sf. Dumitru 3, tel. (+4) 0729 04
10 43, office@eldictador.ro, www.eldictador.ro. The
latest venue in the growing collection of the El Comandante
crowd. You know what to expect: a young crowd dancing to
good, upcoming local DJs playing a mix of music. Expect
a bit of New Wave (Thursdays) alongside more traditional
dancehall sounds (Friday and Saturday). Well priced drinks
keep the crowd well-oiled. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon. PJAW
Fat Cat C-6, Str. Gabroveni 24, tel. (+4) 021 311 55
14/(+4) 0732 54 70 67, fun@clubfatcat.ro, www.
clubfatcat.ro. Strange, hidden little place on the first
floor of a fairly non-descript building in Lipscani, on one of
the unpaved streets (Gabroveni). A pub/club playing loud
music (clearly the neighbours do not mind) and serving
cheap drinks (for the area) the decor is extraordinary
(bizarre murals on the walls are well worth a look in their
own right). Q Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00.
JENW
Fire Club C-6, Str. Gabroveni 12, tel. (+4) 021 312
70 19/(+4) 0723 16 91 05, party@fire.ro, www.fire.
ro. Smoky, mainly rock-playing venue for disaffected youth
types. Well, kind of. A makeover last year has certainly made
the place a bit brighter, though it remains popular most of all
among those who like loud rock music, and who think that
Club A around the corner just isn’t sweaty and crowded
enough. Cheap drinks help keep the crowd young and fitze
free, and to be honest there are worst places to ‘go local.’
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
05:00. PJEN
Goblin C-6, Str. Smardan 30, tel. (+4) 021 310 81
84, (+4) 0733 57 49 35, events@goblinclub.ro, www.
goblinclub.ro. A big bricked-up cellar in Old Town brought
back to life with a lick of white paint and a lively, chatty, friendly
barman. Two bars: one as smoky as you might expect, while
the other is designated non-smoking (unique in Old Town, we
think?). This place defines itself by its music - no house or
disco here, well, hardly any - just very good music, and by the
welcome presence of a table football game. Popular with a
young, student crowd. It’s a keeper. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon. PJAEBW
La Muse
C-6, Str Lipscani 53, tel. (+4) 021 310 64 34, (+4)
0734 00 02 36/(+4) 0745 02 42 17, lamuse@lamuse.
ro, www.lamuse.ro. Last time we popped in we met up
with almost everyone we know in Bucharest. That’s the
kind of place this is: on the surface it looks posh and flash
and out-of-your-league (the lady at the entrance clutches a
clipboard as though her life depends on it) but it is in fact a
down-to-earth, come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor
hits from across the decades to a crowd a bit older than
elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the drinks. We
love it. Q Open 09:00 - 03:00. PJAEBW
Mojo C-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0760 26 34 96/(+4) 0767 34 34 10, mihai.paveliu@
mojomusic.ro, www.mojomusic.ro. Live music, and
then some: this place sets the standard for nights out in
Old Town. It is a three-level extravaganza of a venue with
karaoke upstairs, a non-smoking bar on the ground floor
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

and live music down in the warren of a cellar. Big enough to
be packed without ever feeling claustrophobic, the beer is a
decent price, the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities and
the manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice
to his customers. When ace local bands are not playing,
the resident Mojo band usually is. Also now puts on regular
live British stand-up comedy nights too. Top notch. QOpen
20:00 - 05:00. PJAEBW
The Floor C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 0721 60 06 76,
contact@thefloor.ro, www.thefloor.ro. The first floor, to
be exact, the first floor of Curtea Sticlarilor on Strada Selari.
A bar, meeting place and live music venue, you can expect
a bit of everything on the music front, from jazz to rock from
mainly local acts. Even when there is no live music, there is
usually a theme party or suchlike: the Latino parties are well
recommended. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. PJAEBW
The Vault C-6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, tel. (+4) 0723 19
99 77, silviu@clubvault.ro, www.clubvault.ro. Smooth.
Smooth people, smooth vibes and smooth cocktails. We love
the (long) nights we spend in this place, not least because
you never know what to expect on the music front: it could
be a night of pop, a night of disco classics, a night of indie
beats or a night of up-to-the-minute clubby sounds. We sug-
gest you take a chance and delve inside. Chances are you
will enjoy yourself. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. PJAEW
True Club C-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner with Str.
Selari), tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87/(+4) 0721 95 97 25,
office@trueclub.ro, www.trueclub.ro. In that wonderful
location once known as Temple (on the corner of Strada
Selari and Splaiul Independentei) is True Club, an exclusively
live music venue well worthy of your time (it’s owned and run
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
old town 87
by two legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene, who have
a track record of delivering the goods). When the resident
covers band or top local act isn’t performing you will find
karaoke, and the sheer variety of themed nights and par-
ties usually means that there is always something here for
everyone. Drinks are a decent price and there are plenty of
them to choose from. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PJAEW
Pasajul Vilacrosse
Beer O’Clock
C-6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, of-
fice@beeroclock.ro, www.beeroclock.ro. This little pub
in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the biggest selection
bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly named. With brews
from all over the world you could drink a different beer every
night for a month and not try the same one twice. What’s
more, besides the beer they also have the appropriate glass
in which to serve it: great attention to details. Tiny, with only
a few places to sit, it’s worth reserving if you want to be sure
of a seat. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 04:00.
PJABW
Opium Stage B-4, Calea Victoriei 16 - 20, tel. (+4) 0720
68 12 02/(+4) 0727 06 20 01, office@opiumstage.ro,
www.opiumstage.ro. Interesting, very interesting. A cellar in
one of Bucharest’s grand old passages has been transformed
into a lounge/club, complete with kitsch decor and leather
sofas. What makes it work is that they’ve left the original
brick work exposed, leaving you with the sense that all that
kitsch is pure irony. Prices are decent for the location and
the cocktail list tremendous. Now all they need is a regular
crowd and they’ll have a great place on their hands. QOpen
21:00 - 05:00. PJNBW
June - July 2011
88 Shopping
Shopping in Bucharest
Bucharest’s main shopping areas are the malls and com-
mercial centres listed below, as well as historical Calea
Victoriei, home to the most luxurious shops in the city
(see pages 24-27). Little Str. Ion Campineanu, between
Balcescu and Calea Victoriei, is also becoming a funky little
place to shop, with lots of boutiques and delicatessens.
The Peasant and Village museums (see page 71) are
the best places to pick up Romanian handicrafts and
souvenirs. The Romanian version of Monopoly is a
great souvenir. It can be bought for around 120 lei in
good toy and book stores.
Markets
Piata Obor E-4, Piata Obor, MObor. Bucharest’s biggest
and perhaps most famous market. Colourful, huge, and always
lively, it is not what it once was: where once you could buy al-
most anything, it is now a strictly meat, dairy produce, fruit and
vegetable market. Watch your wallet. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00.
Targul Taranului (Peasants’ Market) B-7, Calea Rahovei
196A, tel. (+4) 021 312 38 35, www.targultaranului.ro. Ev-
ery Saturday and Sunday The Ark hosts this farmers/Slow Food
market. Find sausages, bacon, slana, trout, goats cheese, tuica
and honey.Q Open Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
Targul Vitan-Barzesti Sos. Vitan-Barzesti/Splaiul
Unirii. An astonishing place. Every Sunday morning this huge
piece of wasteland becomes Sodom and Gomorrah. From
allegedly stolen mobile phones and fake Ralph Lauren shirts
to cheap, sandpaper-rough toilet paper, everything can be
found here, all prices negotiable. Next door is an enormous
second-hand car market. Bus 123 will get you here. Be brave.
Q Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Mon-Sat.
Shopping centres
AFI Palace Cotroceni B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara,
MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 031 425 75 10, www.aficotroceni.
ro. Bucharest’s biggest mega-mall, this time with added IMAX. It
also has paintball, ice skating (year round) and you can get here
easy: it is just a short walk from the Politehnica metro station.
Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
Baneasa Shopping City Şos. Bucureşti-Ploieşti 42D,
tel. (+4) 021 305 71 95, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro.
This place was the first real mega-mall in Bucharest.Q Open
10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.
Bucuresti Mall E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, tel. (+4) 021
327 67 00, www.bucurestimall.com.ro. Recently ex-
tended in a major redevelopment, this is now a real shopping
centre, with plenty of stores you can actually spend money in.
Debenhams is the biggest pull, but hundreds of other brands
also help to bring the punters in. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Sun Plaza Calea Vacaresti 391, tel. (+4) 021 386 06
00, www.sunplaza.ro. Newest and dare we say sunniest
mall in Bucharest. It is also the only mall in the city right
outside a metro station: in this case, Piata Sudului, just three
stops from Piata Unirii. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Food Court
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. PA
Unirea Shopping Centre C-6, Piata Unirii 1, www.
unireashop.ro. Once a showpiece of Socialism, this huge
department store is now the best shopping centre in the
centre of the city. There are fashion stores on the first and
Bucharest In Your Pocket
second floors while the electronics and household appliance
shops on floors three and four are also worth a visit. An excel-
lent Mega Image supermarket can be found in the basement.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Bookshops
Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea Victoriei
45, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.librariaengleza.ro.
Besides of course being the first real English bookshop in
the city centre, this place is much more: it was one of the
first bookshops in Romania to actually look like a bookshop.
Stocks a good range of fiction, an exceptional range of non-
fiction, plenty of children’s books, and a decent selection
of books about Romania and Bucharest. A splendid place
to spend time (and money!). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 14:00. A
Cărturesti C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, tel.
(+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.ro. Marvellous
bookshop, gallery and small cafe, with good selection of
English books. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Also at (C-5) Str. Edgar
Quinet 9, tel. (+4) 021 311 06 46, Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun.
Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, tel.
(+4) 021 313 50 35, www.librariilehumanitas.ro. Large
bookshop (right next to Anthony Frost, above) selling a vast
range of both Romanian and foreign language books. A good
place to hunt for souvenir, coffee-table books.QOpen 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Sala Dalles C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18, tel. (+4)
021 315 52 60, www.carti-anticariat.ro. The biggest
international bookshop in Bucharest, with more than 10,000
titles to choose from. If you want to read local literature, this
is as good a place as any to find local authors in translation.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Local Souvenirs
Muzeul Taranului Roman (Peasant Museum)
B-3, Şos. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021
317 96 61. The shop at the Peasant Museum has an
outstanding selection of souvenirs and gifts. Of particular
note are the traditional peasant clothes, as well as the
icons and naive art. Not cheap, but it’s all good quality
stuff. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. A
Romartizana B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20, tel. (+4)
021 313 14 65. Good place to buy some traditional sou-
venirs. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at P-ta
Montreal 10 (World Trade Plaza) tel. (+4) 021 319 12 16.
Sticerom C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, tel. (+4) 021 315
96 99, fax (+4) 021 314 94 92. Glass blowers in the
courtyard of Curtea Sticlarilor, a courtyard dating back
to 1857. A number of shops sell Gallé type glassware,
porcelain, ceramics and chrystal objects. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Vinexpert C-6, Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping
Centre), tel. (+4) 021 303 02 80, www.evinoteca.ro.
There is always something worth spending your money
on here, whether its a bottle of sparkling wine from the
Cricova winery in the Republic of Moldova, or one of
the hundreds of local wines they always have in stock.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Clinics & Hospitals
Emergency Clinic Hospital (Spitalul de Urgenta
Floreasca) C-3, Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599
23 00, fax (+4) 021 599 22 57, spital@urgentafloreasca.
ro, www.urgentafloreasca.ro. If you’re squashed by a tram
or fall victim to a dodgy sausage, you’ll be in good hands here
in what is the best state-run hospital in Romania. Efficient,
clean, and well-run.Q Open 24hrs.
Medsana A-6, Str. Dr. Nanu Muscel 12, tel. (+4) 021
408 78 00, fax (+4) 021 402 80 76, www.medsana.ro.
Another welcome addition to the privately-run medical sector.
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Also
at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 9, tel. (+4) 021 408 78 00.
Unirea Medical Center C-6, B-dul Unirii 57, bl. E4,
tel. (+4) 021 327 11 88/(+4) 021 9268, www.cmu.ro.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
directory 89
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (B-5) Str.
George Enescu 12 tel. (+4) 021 316 58 76, (A-3) Str. Clucerului
55 tel. (+4) 021 222 92 26 and many other locations.
Dentists
Asclepimed A-6, Str. Grigore Romniceanu 12, tel. (+4)
031 421 24 73, (+4) 0722 71 77 89, fax (+4) 031 421
24 74, office@asclepimed.ro, www.asclepimed.ro. Much
more than just a dentist: this is facial aesthetics; surgical and
non-surgical. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Mon, Wed 16:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. PA
B.B. Clinic - German Dentist
D-6, Str. Ionescu Gion 4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51,
www.germandentist.ro. Probably the best dentist in the
city. What’s more, you can bring the kids too, as they now
have special rooms equipped just for them. Q Open 10:00
- 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies (24hrs) tel. (+4)
0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4)
021 231 88 56. PTA
Dent-A-America B-3, Str. Varsovia 4, tel. (+4) 021 230
26 08/(+4) 021 230 28 26, fax (+4) 021 230 28 27,
receptie@dent-a-americainc.ro, www.dent-a-americainc.
ro. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Denta G D-5, B-dul Carol I 37, tel. (+4) 021 313 87 14/
(+4) 031 805 99 97, fax (+4) 021 313 33 06, office@
dentag.ro, www.dentag.ro.
Dental Standard E-5, Str. Fluierului 17D, tel. (+4) 0726
42 94 72, office@dentalstandard.ro, www.dentalstan-
dard.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Velvet Medical C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 29 (Bectro Center), tel.
(+4) 021 317 39 97/(+4) 0722 45 30 12, www.velvetden-
tal.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
June - July 2011
90 directory
Dry cleaners
Immaculate Cleaners C-4, Str. Polona 76, tel. (+4)
021 211 44 13, www.immaculate.ro. The best dry-
cleaners in town offers free collection and delivery. QOpen
07:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Foreign representations
Austria C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021 201
56 12.
Belarus A-3, Str.Tuberozelor 6, tel. (+4) 021 223 17 76.
Belgium D-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69.
Brazil B-3, B-dul Aviatorilor 40, tel. (+4) 021 230 11 30.
Bulgaria B-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50.
Canada A-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307
50 00.
Chile B-4, Calea Griviţei 24, et. 4, tel. (+4) 021 312
72 39.
China B-1, Sos. Nordului 2, tel. (+4) 021 232 17 32.
Croatia D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 313
04 57.
Czech Republic C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021
303 92 30.
Denmark D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300
08 00.
Egypt D-4, B-dul Dacia 67, tel. (+4) 021 211 09 38.
European Union Delegation C-5, Str. Vasile Lascăr 31,
tel. (+4) 021 203 54 00.
Finland B-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 04.
France B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
303 10 00.
Germany B-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4)
021 202 98 30.
Greece E-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021
209 41 73.
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Hungary C-4, Str. Prof. Dr. Dimitrie Gerota 63-65, tel.
(+4) 031 620 43 00.
Ireland B-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021 310
21 61.
Israel C-7, B-dul Dimitrie Cantemir 1, tronson 2+3, bl.
B2, et. 5, tel. (+4) 021 318 94 17.
Italy B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00.
Japan A-4, Sos. Nicolae Titulescu 4-8 (America House
East Wing, et. 8), tel. (+4) 021 319 18 90.
Lebanon B-3, Str. Andrei Muresanu 16, tel. (+4) 021
230 81 75.
Macedonia D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 144, tel. (+4) 021
210 08 80.
Mexico A-6, Str. Dr. Louis Pasteur 22, tel. (+4) 021
210 45 77.
Moldova B-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021 230
04 74.
Netherlands B-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel. (+4) 021
208 60 30.
WiFi Hotspots W
Bucharest is now dotted with hundreds of Wifi hotspots,
and the vast majority are free. It is rare in fact that you
will come across a venue - in the city centre at least -
which does not have Wifi. Usually, all you will need is a
password (divulged as you order) though many venues
in Old Town don‘t even bother: you can simply sit down
and start surfing the net. Venues aside, there is (patchy)
public Wifi internet in and around Piata Unirii and Piata
Universitatii, as well as kerbside at Otopeni airport. In our
listings, we have used the Wifi symbol W to denote all
venues which have Wifi.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
92 directory
Bucharest With Children
Bucharest is not the greatest city in the world to visit with
children. The major problem is that the vast majority of the
city’s museums – with a couple of honourable and notable
exceptions - are dull, offer no interactivity and little to
captivate little minds. The exceptions are the outstanding
Village Museum (see page 71), which children love, as they
can scurry around the houses, explore and generally be kids
without worrying too much about grump security guards
telling them off. The confectionary stand at the entrance
selling tasty Romanian sweets helps too.
The Peasant Museum (see page 71) will please older
children, especially those who know a little Romanian history
(and note that the Clubul Taranului, around the back of
the museum, has puppet shows most weekend mornings
at 10:30am and 12pm), while the Geology Museum (see
page 73) across the road is a must for families: it is one of
only two museums in Bucharest that puts on exhibitions
specifically for kids (the other, the Grigore Antipa Natural
History Museum, is closed for renovation).
The Circus Globus (C-3, Parcul Circului) has performances
most weekends (morning, afternoon and evening)
and is always a hit with kids. You will find details of its
performances at the website circulglobus.ro.
Bucharest’s Zoo on Aleea Priveghetorilor (turn left at the
Police Academy) is better than it has been for years, if
still not perhaps offering the range of animals you would
expect to find in Europe’s better zoos. They do have a fine
collection of exotic birds, and it is a good half-day out for
kids. Entrance costs 13 lei for adults, 6.50 lei for kids. The
zoo is open daily from 09:00-17:00.
And then of course there are the parks. See our Bucharest
Parks and Gardens feature on page 22-23 for a full
guide.
An excellent indoor playground can be found at Funland
Romania: a cracking place to take the kids on days when
it rains. Featuring the biggest indoor playground we have
seen (30 lei, kids can stay all day), bowling, arcade games
and plenty of space for Mums and Dads to relax and have
coffee in, it is a weekend-must. Find it on the fourth floor of
Unirea Shopping Centre in (C-6) Piata Unirii.
For a swim there is Daimon, a sports club in Parcul
Tineretului, busy with the fitze crowd at weekends but good
during the week. There are also pools open to the public at
the InterContinental and Ramada Majestic hotels, as well as
at the World Class Health Clubs. For more on Swimming
in Bucharest see the box on page 18.
Aventura Parc is an outdoor adventure playground in a
forest setting north of the capital on the road to Targoviste
(see the website aventuraparc.ro) but it does not compare
with the one in Brasov, which is far better. See the box
on page 19.
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Schools in Bucharest
For Mums and Dads who live here in Bucharest, the good
news is that the city has some outstanding schools: both
state and private. Indeed, there are a handful of state
schools in Bucharest (both primary and secondary) which
regularly meet an outstanding academic level, even if their
facilities are somewhat lacking (few state schools have
sports fields and such like). There are huge differences
between state schools however, and competition for places
at the best is tough. There is also of course the fact that
unless your kids can speak Romanian, the state system
will be practically closed to them.
Fortunately, the private sector has jumped in to fill
this breach, and there are now a number of excellent
private sector schools in Bucharest offering a high level of
education to children of all nationalities (and not just expats:
many wealthy Romanians choose to send their children
to these private schools). We provide a list of the best
private schools below. All boast outstanding academic
records and modern facilities, native English speaking
teachers, and a vast range of extra-curricular activities.
International Schools
American International School Sos. Pipera-Tunari
196, Comuna Voluntari, tel. (+4) 021 204 43 00/
(+4) 021 204 43 01, fax (+4) 021 204 43 03, office@
aisb.ro, www.aisb.ro.
British School of Bucharest Erou Iancu Nicolae
42, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4) 0728 13 34 33,
fax (+4) 021 267 89 69, office@britishschool.ro,
www.britishschool.ro.
Bucharest Christian Academy D-7, Str. Vasile
Voiculescu 26, tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87/(+4) 021
323 54 08, director@bcaromania.org, www.bcaro-
mania.org.
International British School E-5, Str. Agricultori
21-23, tel. (+4) 021 253 16 98, fax (+4) 021 253
16 97, office@ibsb.ro, www.ibsb.ro.
International School for Primary Education
(INS) Str. Petre Aurelian 72, Green Lake Residence,
tel. (+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36 36, fax
(+4) 021 380 38 38, office@inspe.ro, www.insb.ro.
International School of Bucharest Sos. Gara
Catelu 1R, tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30, fax (+4) 021
306 95 34, info@isb.ro, www.isb.ro.
Japanese School in Bucharest A-2, Str. Alexan-
dru Constantinescu 61, tel. (+4) 021 222 19 85,
fax (+4) 021 222 19 86, jpsbucharest@gmail.com,
www.jpschool.ro.
Lauder-Reut C-6, Str. Iuliu Barasch 15, tel. (+4) 021
320 15 38, fax (+4) 021 320 15 75, lauder_reut@
yahoo.com, www.lauder-reut.ro.
Mark Twain International School Str. Erou Iancu
Nicolae 25B, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 12/(+4) 0724 00
09 00, fax (+4) 021 267 89 85, contact@marktwain-
school.ro, www.marktwainschool.ro.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 directory 93

Key cuts
El Chei C-5, Str. Coltei 6, tel. (+4) 021 311 14 18/(+4)
0722 20 51 10, www.elchei.ro. Call the (+4) 0722 20 51 10
number of you get locked out of your apartment late at night.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Opticians
Optiblu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 7, tel. (+4) 021
305 73 15, www.optiblu.ro. Sensiblu - the chemists - now
also offers an optician in some of its outlets. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun.
Optiplaza B-dul Timisoara 26 (Plaza Romania), tel. (+4)
0372 71 10 00, plaza@optiplaza.ro, www.optiplaza.ro.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-7) Bucuresti Mall, Baneasa
Shopping City and many other locations.

Pharmacies
Help Net A-3, B-dul Unirii 27, www.helpnet.ro. Q Open
24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, and many other
locations around the city.
Sensiblu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 7, www.sensiblu.
com. QOpen 24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4)
021 233 89 61, and many other locations.

Removals & Storage

AGS Worldwide Movers B-dul Basarabia 256 (Faur
Industrial Park, entrance from B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918),
tel. (+4) 021 345 06 66.
Euro Mini Storage B-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J, tel. (+4)
031 100 18 88, www.euroministorage.com.

Norway B-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00.
Philippines A-6, Str. Carol Davilla 105-107, et. 5, ap.
10-11, tel. (+4) 021 319 82 52.
Poland B-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00.
Portugal B-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36.
Russia B-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
Serbia B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211
98 71.
Slovakia C-5, Str. Otetari 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 61 00.
Spain B-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80.
Sweden B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00.
Switzerland B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-20, tel.
(+4) 021 206 16 00.
Syria B-4, B-dul Lascăr Catargiu 50, tel. (+4) 021
319 24 67.
Turkey B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 72, tel. (+4) 021 206
37 00.
UK & Northern Ireland C-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel.
(+4) 021 201 72 00.
USA C-5, Str. Tudor Arghezi 7-9, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.
For a full list of foreign embassies and representations
in Bucharest, visit inyourpocket.com.

Old Town Conference Suites

Van Gogh Spaces C-6, Str. Smardan 9, tel. (+4)
021 313 93 15, www.vangogh.ro. More than a mere
conference suite, the spaces on the upper floors of the
buildings above the Van Gogh Cafe are multi-purpose
suites available for standard conferences, but also featur-
ing a number of instant offices.Q PJW

bucharest.inyourpocket.com June - July 2011

Northern Bucharest
Central & Southern Bucharest
98 Street register & HOTEL MAP INDEX
13 Septembrie, Calea B6
21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5
Academiei, Str. C5
Alecsandri Vasile, Str. B4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4
Aman Theodor, Str. B5
Amman, Str. C3
Amzei, Intr. B4
Apolodor, Str. B6
Argentina, Str. B3
Arghezi Tudor, Str. C5
Atelierului, Str. A4
Atena, Str. B3
Balaban Emil, Str. C4
Balcescu Nicolae, Bd. C5
Baniei, Str. C6
Banului, Str. B5
Baratiei, Str. C6
Batistei, Str. C5
Berna, Str. B3
Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5
Berzei, Str. A4
Biserica Amzei, Str. B4
Biserica Enei, Str. C5
Bitolia, Intr. B3
Blanari, Str. C6
Blanc Louis, Arh., Str. B3
Blanduziei, Str. C5
Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str. C4
Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3
Bratianu I.c., Bd. C6
Brazilia, Str. B3
Brebu, Str. E3
Brezoianu Ion, Str. B5
Brutus M.i., Str. B6
Bruxelles, Str. B3
Budisteanu Constantin,
G-ral, Str. B5
Buiestrului, Str. C3
Buzesti, Intr. B4
Buzesti, Piata A4
Buzesti, Str. B4
Buzoiani Iani, Str. C2
Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6
Caderea Bastiliei, Intr. B4
Caderea Bastiliei, Str. B4
Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5
Calin Ion, Erou, Str. C4
Cameliei, Str. A4
Carada Eugeniu, Str. C6
Caragea Ioan Voda, Str. C4
Caragiale I.l., Str. C5
Caragiale I.l.,intr. C5
Carol I, Bd. D5
Catargiu Lascar, Bd. B4
Cavafii Vechi, Str. C6
Cazzavillan Luigi, Str. B5
Cernat Alexandru,
G-ral, Str. A4
Cioranu Mihai, Str. A6
Clucerului, Str. A3
Clunet, Dr., Str. A6
Coanda Constantin, G-ral.,
Str. B4
Coanda Henri, Str. B4
Cobalcescu Grigore,
Prof., Str. B5
Coltei, Str. C5
Constantin Daniel, Str. B4
Constitutiei, Piata B6
Conta Vasile, Str. C5
Coposu Corneliu, Bd. C6
Coposu Corneliu, Piata D6
Cornescu, Str. C3
Bucharest In Your Pocket
Cotiturii, Str. A5
Covaci, Str. C6
Crisana, Str. A5
Crisului, Str. C6
Cronicarilor, Str. C3
Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4
Dacia, Bd. D4
Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. Lebedei, Str. A3
B4
David Emmanuel, Str. C4
Davila Carol, Dr., Str A6
Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee C6
Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.
av., Str B3
Dianei, Str. C5
Doamna Oltea, Str. C3
Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str. B5
Dorobanti, Calea B3
Dorobanti, Piata B3
Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6
Drobeta, Str. C4
Duca Gheorghe, Bd. A4
Dumbrava Rosie, Str. C4
Eforie, Str. C5
Eftimiu Victor, Intr. B5
Elie Radu, Str. B5
Eminescu Mihai, Intr. C4
Eminescu Mihai, Str. D4
Enescu George, Piata B5
Enescu George, Str. B5
Episcopiei, Str. C5
Eroii Sanitari, Bd. A5
Eroilor, Bd. A5
Eroilor, Piata A6
Felix Iacob, Dr., Str. A4
Filipescu Nicolae, Str. C5
Finlanda, Str. B3
Floreasca, Cale C3
Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str. C5
Franceza, Str. C6
Frumoasa, Intr. B4
Frumoasa, Str. B4
Furtuna Stefan, Intr. A5
Gabroveni, Str. C6
Gara De Nord, Piata A4
Gara De Nord, Str. A4
Georgescu George, Str. B6
Ghica Ion, Str. C5
Golescu Dinicu, Bd. A4
Golescu Nicolae, Str. C5
Greceanu Paul, Str. C4
Grigorescu Eremia, G-ral, Str. Negulescu Stefan, Str. C3
C4
Grivitei, Cale B4
Gusti Dimitrie, Str. A5
Gutenberg, Str. B5
Haga, Str. B3
Hagi Moscu Maria, Str. A3
Halelor, Str. C6
Haret Spiru, Str. B5
Hasdeu Iulia, Intr. B4
Hasdeu Iulia, Str. B4
Horatiu, Str. B4
Hristo Botev, Bd. C5
Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4
Icoanei, Str. C4
Ilfov, Str. B6
Iorga Nicolae, Intr. B4
Iorga Nicolae, Str. B4
Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str. A6
Iulian Stefan, Str. A3
Izvor, Str. A6
Justitiei, Str. B6
Kiseleff P.d., Bd. B3
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5
Lacatusului, Str. C2
Lacul Tei, Bd. D3
Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4
Lantului, Str. A6
Lascar Vasile, Str. C5
Lazar Gheorghe, Str. B5
Libertatii, Bd. B6
Libertatii, Piata B7
Lipova, Str. A5
Lipscani, Str. C6
Lisabona, Str. B3
Lister, Dr., Str. A6
Londra, Str. B3
Lupu Dionisie, Str. C5
Luterana, Str. B5
Macedoniei, Str. A5
Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5
Magiresti, Str. A4
Maltopol, Str. A4
Mamulari, Str. C6
Manolescu Grigore, Str. A3
Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4
Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5
Masaryk Thomas, Str. C5
Mendeleev D.i., Str. C4
Mexic, Str. B3
Michelet Julles, Str. C4
Micle Veronica, Str. A4
Mihai Voda, Str. B6
Mihalache Ion, Bd. A3
Mihnea Voda, Str. C6
Mille Constantin, Str. B5
Millo Matei, Str. B5
Mincu Ion, Arh., Str. B3
Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6
Miron Costin, Str. A4
Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str. Sfintii Voievozi, Str. B4
B6
Monetariei, Str. B3
Mosilor, Cale D4
Moxa Mihail, Str. B4
Muresanu Andrei, Poet, Str. Sofia, Str. B3
B3
Musatescu Tudor, Piata B5
Natiunile Unite, Bd. B6
Natiunile Unite, Piata B6
Neculce Ion, Str. A3
Negri Costache, Str. A6
Negruzzi Iacob, Str. A4
Occidentului, Str. B4
Oslo, Str. B3
Ostasilor, Str. B5
Otetari,str. C5
Paris, Str. B3
Parvan Vasile, Str. B5
Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str. A6
Patriarhiei, Str. C6
Petrescu Camil, Intr. C4
Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4
Piata Amzei, Str. B4
Pitar Mos, Str. C5
Poenaru Bordea, Str. B6
Poiana Narciselor, Str. B5
Politie, Str. B6
Polizu Gheorghe, Str. A4
Polona, Str. C4
Poni Petru, Str. A4
Popa Tatu, Str. B5
Popescu-gopo Ion, Str. A6
Povernei, Str. B4
Praga, Str. B3
Praporgescu David,
G-ral., Str. C5
Pretorienilor, Str. A6
Putul Cu Plopi, Str. B5
Putul Lui Zamfir, Str. B3
Quinet Edgar, Str. C5
Quito, Piata B3
Rabat, Str. B3
Radu Voda, Str. C6
Ramniceanu Naum, Str. C3
Regina Elisabeta, Bd. C5
Regina Maria, Bd. C6
Revolutiei, Piata B5
Rigas, Intr. B5
Roma, Intr. B3
Roma, Str. B3
Romana, Piata B4
Rosetti C.a., Piata C5
Rosetti C.a., Str. C5
Rosetti Maria, Str. C5
Rossini Gioachino, Str. C3
Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5
Sapientei, Str. B6
Sarandy Frosa, Str. A3
Scarlatescu, Str. A3
Schitul Magureanu, Bd. B5
Scoala Floreasca, Str. C3
Scoalei, Str. C5
Selari, Intr. C6
Selari, Str. C6
Sepcari, Str. C6
Sevastopol, Intr. B4
Sevastopol, Str. B4
Sfanta Vineri, Str. C6
Sfantul Constantin, Str. B5
Sfantul Elefterie, Str. A6
Sfintii Apostoli, Str. B6
Sfintii Voievozi, Piata B4
Slanic, Str. C5
Slatineanu Ion, Str. C4
Slavesti, Str. C4
Smardan, Str. C6
Stahi Constantin, Str. B5
Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6
Stavropoleos, Str. C6
Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea D4
Stirbei Voda, Intr. B5
Stirbei Voda, Str. B5
Tirana, Str. B3
Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4
Tokio, Str. B3
Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4
Transilvaniei, Str. B5
Tudor Stefan, Intr. C3
Tunari, Str. C4
Unirii, Bd. C6
Unirii, Piata C6
Universitatii, Piata C5
Vacarescu Barbu, Str. C3
Venezuela, Str. B3
Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5
Victoriei, Calea B4
Victoriei, Piata B4
Visarion I.c., Str. B4
Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3
Vlaicu Aurel, Str. C4
Vulcanescu Mircea, Str. B4
Washington, Str. B3
Witting, Str. A4
Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4
Zalomit Z. Ion. Str. B5
Zola Emile, Str. B3
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
INDEX TO HOTEL
NUMBERS ON MAp
H1 Helvetia
H2 Casa Victor
H3 Picollo Mondo
H4 Hello Hotels
H5 Andy’s
H6 Moxa
H7 Starlight
H8 Duke
H9 Golden Tulip
H10 Residence Arcul de Trimf
H11 Hotel Dan
H12 JW Marriott
H13 Parliament
H14 Ibis Parlament
H15 Volo
H16 Berthelot
H17 Centre Ville
H18 Opera
H19 Palace
H20 Central
H21 Carol Parc
H22 Hilton
H23 Novotel
H24 Capitol
H25 Grand Continental
H26 Lido (closed)
H27 Ambasador
H28 Radisson Blu
H29 Rembrandt
H30 Tania
H31 Relax Comfort Suites
H32 Intercontinental
H33 K+K Elisabeta
H34 Horoscop
H35 Tempo Hotel
H36 Royal
H37 Tiny Club
H38 Hotel Confort Traian
H39 Bucharest City Inn
H40 Ramada Majestic
H41 Ibis Gara De Nord
H42 Suter Inn
H43 NH
H44 Howard Johnson
H45 Scala
H46 Trianon
H47 Epoque
H48 Z Boutique
H49 Bruxelles
H50 Boutique Hotel Monaco