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Cocoa Processing and Impact on Composition

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DOI: 10.1016/B978-0-12-404699-3.00073-1

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C H A P T E R

73
Cocoa Processing and Impact on Composition
Jasminka Giacometti*, Slavica Mazor Jolić†, Djuro Josić *, ‡
*University of Rijeka, Rijeka, Croatia, †Kraš,d.d., Zagreb, Croatia, ‡Brown University, Rhode Island, USA

implementation of traceability and authenticity of foods


CHAPTER POINTS has increased as a result of a growing concern with food
• F  ermentation, drying, roasting, and alkalization quality and food safety (van der Vorst, 2005), leading
are the main processes in the cocoa chain where to the introduction of legislations in some parts of the
bioactive substances can be lost. world, such as the European Union. However, cocoa
• Standardization of farming practices is important beans are produced in non-European countries and EU
for quality and high bioactive compounds regulations do not apply to the participants at the begin-
content of cocoa products. ning of the cocoa supply chain.
Cocoa and its derived products (cocoa powder, cocoa
• Appropriate starter cultures are useful for liquor, and chocolate) are a very rich source of bioactive
controlled cocoa bean fermentation processes. components such as polyphenols (Wollgast and Anklam,
• Presence of fungi in cocoa is undesirable and 2000; Figure 73.2). The main groups of cocoa polyphenols
often related to the formation of off-flavors, are catechins (37%), anthocyanins (4%), and proantocyani-
spoilage, and accumulation of mycotoxins. dins (58%) (Hii et al., 2009). The amounts of polyphenols
• ‘Omics’ methods are a new challenge in the vary due to the type of cultivar and the country of origin, as
development of traceability and authenticity, well as production processes of cocoa bean and chocolate
quality, and safety methods. manufacturing processes (Cooper et al., 2007; Table 73.2).
Flavor compounds and flavor precursors like free
amino acids and reducing sugars are formed during fer-
mentation. The amount of these compounds is a confirma-
INTRODUCTION
tion of the well-fermented process and is responsible for
the flavor profile of the finished chocolate (Afoakwa et al.,
Cocoa is an important crop around the world: it is
2008; Lefeber et al., 2012). During the roasting process, due
an important cash crop for growing countries, as well
to the Maillard reaction, flavor precursors are transformed
as an important branch of the food industry for process-
into flavor compounds (Jumnongpon et al., 2012).
ing and consuming countries (Table 73.1) (Cocoa Market
The impact of cocoa processing on polyphenol com-
Update, 2012).
position and suitable flavors and/or flavor precursors of
Most of the cocoa beans produced worldwide are
cocoa beans and chocolate is discussed in this chapter.
produced by small-sized farms. Fragmentation of farms
Furthermore, our review also highlights the direction of
often causes the heterogeneity of batches of cocoa beans
current and future investigations related to the impact of
(Saltini et al., 2013). The expectations of chocolate man-
processing cocoa bioactive compounds.
ufacturers directed on the qualitative parameters by
country origin aim at having uniform and constant raw
materials to produce chocolate.
Quality and flavor of cocoa products strongly depend BIOACTIVE COMPONENTS IN COCOA
on the various stages of cocoa processing (Saltini et al., CULTIVARS
2013). These processes begin very early with cocoa farm-
ing, storage, fermentation, drying, and packing the In recent years numerous studies have focused on
cocoa beans and continue with the manufacturing of cocoa polyphenols, especially flavonoids, as potent anti-
chocolate (Figure 73.1). In recent years, interest in the oxidants for human health. Therefore, the important

Processing and Impact on Active Components in Food 605


http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-404699-3.00073-1 Copyright © 2015 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
606 73.  COCOA PROCESSING AND IMPACT ON COMPOSITION

TABLE 73.1  Worldwide Cocoa Market

Cocoa Bean Producers

Production of
cocoa beans
(103 tonnes) 2009–2010 2010–2011 2011–2012

Africa 2428 (68.%) 3076 (73.3%) 2801 (70.3%)

Cameroon 205 230 220

Cote d’Ivoire 1184 1668 1400

Ghana 740 860 870

Nigeria 230 240 230

Other Africa 69 78 81

Asia and Oceania 642 (18%) 563 (13.4%) 623 (15.6%)

Indonesia 530 450 500

Malaysia 20 18 18

Other Asia 92 95 105

Latin America 499 (14%) 558 (13.3%) 563 (14.1%)


FIGURE 73.1  Flowchart of cocoa bean production and manufac-
Brazil 159 197 185 turing processes.

Ecuador 150 160 170

Other 189 201 208


topics in cocoa research are directed at the processing
of cocoa beans, manufacturing processes of cacao prod-
World Total 3569 4197 3987 ucts, and analytical technologies for the determination of
Cocoa Bean Processors cocoa polyphenols. Some studies on cocoa polyphenols
Grindings of
were also related to biochemical changes during the pro-
cocoa beans cessing and obtaining of the characteristic cocoa flavor
(103 tonnes) 2009–2010 2010–2011 2011–2012 (Rodriguez-Campos et al., 2011; Zahouli et al., 2010).
Europe 1492 (41.2%) 1595 (41.7%) 1554 (39.1%)

Germany 361 439 421 Cultivars


Netherlands 500 525 490 The cocoa tree belongs to the species Theobroma cacao.
Other 631 631 643 Different subspecies can be classified within four
cultivars: Criollo, Forastero, Trinitario, and Nacio-
Americas 801 (22.1%) 839 (22.0%) 865 (21.8%)
nal (Counet et al., 2004). The Criollo cultivar has
Brazil 223 236 243 a high level of procyanidins (Counet et al., 2004;
United States 380 390 400 Elwers et al., 2009). Criollo beans also have a high
level of flavor precursors, reducing sugars and amino
Other 198 213 222
acids that can result in a very high level of pyr-
Asia and Oceania 689 (19%) 770 (20.1%) 897 (22.6%) azines. Other aromatics are formed during the roast-
Indonesia 120 170 270 ing process in reactions between reducing sugars
and amino acids (Misnawi et al., 2004a; Elwers et al.,
Malaysia 298 305 312
2009). Compared to Criollo, the chocolate produced
Other 271 295 315 with Forastero and Trinitario beans showed lower
Africa 642 (17.7%) 618 (16.2%) 657 (16.5%) procyanidins levels (Counet et al., 2004) and similar
amount of pyrazines, while Trinitario showed strong
Cote d’Ivoire 390 340 380
basic chocolate characters as well as some typical
Ghana 200 220 222 winery type of aroma that distinguishes this cultivar
Others 52 58 55 from the other varieties (Counet et al., 2004). Unlike
the others, the Nacional cultivar is known to have a
World Total 3624 3822 3973
very low concentration of reducing sugars after fer-
Source: ICCO; Reuters; LMC Report, February 2012. mentation (Elwers et al., 2009) and also, low levels

8. BEVERAGES
Bioactive Components in Cocoa Cultivars 607
FIGURE 73.2  Structures of the cat-
echin/epicatechin enantiomers, procy-
anidin B2 and procyanidins C1.

of pyrazines found after roasting (Jinap et al., 2004; Inadequate procedures during fermentation and dry-
Misnawi et al., 2004). ing processes can significantly reduce polyphenols and
allow the development of undesirable off-flavors.

Factors Affecting the Quantity and Quality of Fermentation


Polyphenols in Cocoa Beans
A number of spontaneous enzymatic ­ reactions FERMENTATION METHOD
occurred during fermentation of cocoa beans. Different fermentation methods are used for ferment-
­Fermentation and drying are two very important steps ing cocoa beans depending on farmers, (Guehi et al.,
involved in the production of cocoa beans. The amounts 2010) areas, and countries (Camu et al., 2008; Schwan,
and composition of amino acids change during the 1998). Platforms, heaps, baskets, and boxes are the most
­fermentation process, as well as reducing sugars such as used fermentation methods. The platform method has a
glucose and fructose, polyphenols, and the pH profile. quite low fermentation rate, adequate for Criollo beans
The presence of yeast, lactic acid bacteria (LAB), and ace- which require short fermentation, but inappropriate for
tic acid bacteria (AAB) during the fermentation process Forastero which requires longer fermentation. This lon-
positively affect the concentration of polyphenols and ger fermentation often induces the growth of unwanted
development of flavor precursors, while aerobic spores molds and consequently off-flavors (Guehi et al., 2010;
and moulds have a negative effect. Schwan and Wheals, 2004).

8. BEVERAGES
608 73.  COCOA PROCESSING AND IMPACT ON COMPOSITION

TABLE 73.2  Polyphenols and Total Antioxidant Capacities of Cocoa and Chocolate Products
Total Flavanols and ORAC (μmol
Product Catechins (mg/g) Procyanidins (mg/g) Flavonols (mg/g) Total Polyphenols* (mg/g) of TE/g)#

Milk chocolate 0.23–0.32 2.16–3.14 3.25–5.38 68–86


(Gu et al., 2006) (Gu et al., 2006) (Miller et al., 2008) (Gu et al., 2006)
0.43–0.90
(Miller et al., 2008)

Dark chocolate 0.77–1.58 8.52–19.85 11.73–14.88 211–349


(Gu et al., 2006) (Gu et al., 2006) (Miller et al., 2008) (Gu et al., 2006)
2.78–4.10
(Miller et al., 2008)

Natural powder 2.90–3.48 32.19–48.70 2.11–3.06 871–899


(Gu et al., 2006) (Gu et al., 2006) (Andres–Lacueva (Gu et al., 2006)
et al., 2008)

Alkalized cocoa 0.41–0.73 7.02–10.82 0.85–1.15 397–406


powder (Dutched (Gu et al., 2006) (Gu et al., 2006) (Andres-Lacueva (Gu et al., 2006)
powder) et al., 2008)

Cocoa powder 19.28–23.71 45.30–60.20


(Miller et al., 2008) (Miller et al., 2008)

Chocolate syrup 0.37–0.91 3.66–4.79


(Miller et al., 2008) (Miller et al., 2008)

*Results expressed as gallic acid equivalents (GAE) on a dry weight basis.


#Data expressed as micromoles of Trolox equivalents per gram (μmol of TE/g).

The fermentation in boxes shows a relatively low key role in the formation of flavor precursors. After
concentration of sugars, ethanol, and acetic acid, as decreasing AAB (5–6 days), aerobic spores and fungi
well as a high pH. Given the heterogeneity in the size occur. Then, the period that adversely affects the quality
of the cocoa beans, as well as the construction material and content of polyphenols and flavors begins (Afoakwa
of the boxes, this method of fermentation significantly et al., 2012; Camu et al., 2008; Counet et al., 2004).
affects the pH value, tannins and sugar content, and the
presence of purple beans (Wallace and Giusti, 2011). In ENZYMES
contrast to the box method of fermentation, the tempera- The enzymes endoproteinase and also other enzymes
ture increases faster at the beginning of the process in such as carboxypeptidase, aminopeptidase, invertase,
the heap method (Guehi et al., 2010). It is considered to polyphenol oxidase (PPO), or glycosidases break down
be the reason for a smaller number of matching purple the cell wall proteins into peptides of different chain
beans (Guehi et al., 2010). length and free amino acids (de Brito et al, 2004; Misnawi
et al., 2003).
MICROBIAL ACTIVITY Unfermented cocoa beans contain a very low amount
The role of microbiology in the cocoa bean fermen- of free amino acids (Misnawi et al., 2002). Low pH at the
tation is described by Schwan and Wheals (2004). The beginning of fermentation favors proteolysis and the lib-
changes in pH values during fermentation are very eration of free amino acids, while too low pH reduces
important for microbial activity. Briefly, the initial low the flavor precursors and leads to over-acidification of
pH of the pulp (3.6), presence of citric acid, and low oxy- the final product (Camu et al., 2008). To know the con-
gen levels favor yeast colonization which leads to ethanol tent and composition of the released amino acids is
production and secretion of pectolytic enzymes within extremely important for predicting the synthesis of aro-
the first 24 h, after which the process slowly decreases. matic compounds in the later stages of the production of
The resulting conditions are favorable to the growth of chocolate. Low amounts of d-amino acids were detected
LAB, which reach their peak after around 36 h from the in fermented cocoa beans (Brückner et al., 1993). Taking
beginning of fermentation, when glucose is degraded to into account that the bacteria are important sources of
lactic acid. LAB population decreases and AAB increases d-amino acids in fermented foodstuffs (Brückner et al.,
in the next period of fermentation. In these conditions, 1993), it seems that bacteria do not penetrate the cocoa
the temperature increases up to about 50°C. It is assumed beans during the microbial fermentation of the pulp. The
that the condition induced by AAB causes the diffusion hydrophobic amino acids such as leucine (Leu), alanine
and hydrolysis of proteins, and AAB probably plays a (Ala), phenylalanine (Phe), valine (Val), isoleucine (Ile),

8. BEVERAGES
Bioactive Components in Cocoa Cultivars 609
and tyrosine (Tyr) were found in the highest amount in an important role in the composition of p ­ olyphenols
free amino acids profile during fermentation (Rohsius (Payne et al., 2010; Wollgast and Anklam, 2000).
et al., 2006). Finally, knowledge of the content and com- PPO is also sensitive to sun drying, reducing its enzy-
position of total and free amino acids can give useful matic activity about 2% (Wollgast and Anklam, 2000). The
information of the flavor potential of cocoa beans and increased temperature during the drying process is also
thus on the final cocoa products. an important factor in the loss of polyphenols. Epicate-
The optimal concentration of reducing sugars in cocoa chin decreased approximately 50% in unfermented beans
beans as well as the optimal concentration of free amino after 2 days of sun drying (Wollgast and Anklam, 2000).
acids is found after 4–5 days of the fermentation pro- Too fast drying affects the excessive production of
cess (Saltini et al., 2013). Rodriguez-Campos et al. (2012) acids, including acetic acid, which is deleterious to the
found that the optimal conditions for the fermentation flavor, while too slow drying results in lower pH, the
and drying of cocoa beans were 6 days of the beginning absence of the optimal color of cocoa beans and increased
of fermentation, followed by drying at 70°C. growth of molds (Zahouli et al., 2010; Rodriguez-Campos
During fermentation and drying, polyphenols diffuse et al., 2012; Hurst et al., 2011). The quality of cocoa beans
from their storage cells and oxidize to become condensed drying depends on the use of conventional hot air dry-
high molecular compounds, mostly insoluble tannins. ers and sun drying (Hii et al, 2011). Natural sun drying is
PPO is involved in the catalysis of these processes still widely used, especially in West Africa. Step-up-dried
(Rohsius et al., 2006). Its activity is strongly reduced samples showed the best flavor profile with a high level of
during the first day of fermentation. The epicatechin cocoa flavor, low in sourness and not excessive in bitterness
as the major cocoa phenolic compound is then reduced and astringency (Hii et al., 2011).
10–20%, and at the same time the enzymatic activity of
PPO is strongly decreased from 50% to 6% (Wollgast and
Factors that Affect the Quantity and Quality of
Anklam, 2000). The decreased activity in PPO is related
to the significantly low level of polyphenols. It is believed
Polyphenols in Chocolate Production
that the non-enzymatic oxidation of polyphenols causes Chocolate characteristics originate not only in f­lavor
inactivation of PPO (Wollgast and Anklam, 2000). The precursors present in cocoa beans, but are generated
consequence of the oxidation of polyphenols is also the during post-harvest treatments and transformed into
­
production of black, brown and red pigments of cocoa desirable odor notes in the manufacturing process as
beans (de Brito et al., 2002). These results lead to a better well. Complex biochemical modifications of bean constit-
understanding of the fermentation process that is aimed uents are further altered by thermal reactions in r­ oasting
at the alteration of biologically active components such and conching, and in alkalization (Afoakwa et al., 2008).
as polyphenols and flavor compounds. Alkalization and roasting are two processes that contrib-
Polyphenols are involved in the flavor profile of cocoa ute to the flavor and color of the semi-­finished products
products, giving astringency and bitterness, and increas- (excluding cocoa butter).
ing antioxidative capacity. Raw cocoa beans contain
a higher content of phenolics than those processed. In Roasting
unfermented cocoa, 60% of total phenolics were flavanol Roasting of the fermented cocoa beans is carried out
monomers and procyanidin oligomers (Tomas-Barberan due to mainly two purposes: the removal of undesired
et al., 2007). The epicatechin content was observed to compounds with low boiling points, such as acetic acid,
decrease between days two and three during fermenta- and the formation of the typical roasty, sweet odorants of
tion, which could indicate a loss of fluids or formation of cocoa (Oliviero et al., 2009). The cocoa roasting process is
large tannins (Afoakwa et al., 2012). The brown color of carried out at high temperatures (120–150°C). However,
cocoa beans is related to the production of tannins dur- the synthesis of flavor precursors, such as free amino
ing the optimal fermentation. acids and reducing sugars, occur before the roasting
process by enzymatic reaction (proteolysis and hydro-
Drying lysis) during the fermentation process. Non-enzymatic
Drying of cocoa beans is the final farming process, browning, known as Maillard reaction, is involved in
which uses heating and reduces the moisture content of numerous reactions including the formation of brown
the beans to less than 7.5% (w/w) (Zahouli et al., 2010). pigments and synthesis of pyrazines. The concentration
Many investigations have been carried out to find the of pyrazines increases rapidly during the roasting pro-
optimal drying methods. Therefore, the drying condi- cess until reaching a maximum value, after which these
tions, temperature and duration of drying, drying rate, constant values are maintained.
and grade were studied. Misnawi et al. (2004a) studied sensory properties of
Drying continues during the process of oxidation that cocoa liquor as affected by the polyphenol concentra-
follows after the fermentation process and therefore plays tion and duration of roasting. They found that cocoa

8. BEVERAGES
610 73.  COCOA PROCESSING AND IMPACT ON COMPOSITION

polyphenols had a negative effect on flavor properties. A Conching is typically applied with gentle grinding to
lower concentration of amino acids and reducing sugars improve the flavor characteristics and reduce the con-
was related to a higher polyphenol concentration and centration of free acids and other volatile by-products
lower pH value (Noor-Soffalina et al., 2009). from the cocoa bean (Sulistyowati and Misnawi, 2008).
The Criollo cultivar has higher pyrazines than those
of Forastero (Elwers et al., 2009). On the other hand, Alkalization
Forastero roasted cocoa beans have three times higher Cocoa nibs, cocoa liquor, and cocoa powder can be
amount of pyrazines than Criollo (Counet et al., 2004). modified by treatment with alkali, also known as alka-
During roasting, amino acids and sugars are reduced lization. Although originally performed to make the
(amino acids between 24–72%, sugars between 47–60%) powder not agglomerate or sink to the bottom, when
and vary depending on the cultivar, type of fermentation it was added to milk or water-based drinks, the alkali-
method, temperature, and dynamics of roasting (Misnawi zation process is nowadays mainly applied to modify
et al., 2004b). Unlike sugars, where the concentration con- the flavor and color of cocoa powders (Andres-Lacueva
tinuously decreases until all the sugar is decomposed, et al., 2008). It was established that alkalization caused
the content of amino acids decreased in the first 30 min- a progressive reduction of polyphenols as well as
utes after the beginning of the process. This decrease in their antioxidant activity (Miller et al., 2008). Reduc-
the concentration of amino acids depends on the roast- tion of the polyphenol antioxidant activity was sug-
ing temperature, where higher temperature favors pyr- gested to be triggered by heat and alkali synergistically
azine synthesis (Misnawi et al., 2004b). (Sulistyowati and ­Misnawi, 2008). Recently, a study by
By the action of proteases and PPO during fermen- Payne et al. (2010) found that compared to natural cocoa
tation, additional brown products are formed from powders, alkalization caused a loss in both epicatechin
­quinones and free amino acids. Activity of these enzymes (up to 98%) and catechin (up to 80%). Andres-Lacueva
is strongly correlated with amount of water and tem- et al. (2008) described a decrease in epicatechin and cat-
perature during roasting, thus reducing bitterness and echin of 67% and 35%, respectively, as a result of the
astringency of cocoa products (Misnawi et al., 2004a). alkalization of cocoa powders. In the case of flavonols,
Cocoa polyphenols are thermally labile to some quercetin presented the highest loss (86%), whereas
degree; however, the exact stability of epicatechin in quercetin-3-­ glucuronide, quercetin-3-arabinoside, and
chocolate will likely depend on stabilizing interactions isoquercetin showed a similar decrease (58, 62, and 61%,
with other components of the cocoa nib. G ­ enerally, respectively) (Andres-Lacueva et al., 2008). In general,
high processing temperatures and /or longer process- changes occurring as the result of alkalization treatment
ing times reduce the amount of ­polyphenols available could be attributed to the oxidation of phenolic com-
in cocoa beans (Hurst et al., 2011). Those degradations pounds under basic pH conditions, leading to the brown
are known to be related to enzymatic and nonenzy- pigments that are polymerized to different degrees. In
matic oxidations that occur during these manufactur- particular, secondary reactions involving o-quinones
ing processes (Tomas-Barberán et al., 2007). Recently, previously formed during the fermentation stage by
Payne et al. (2010) found that when cacao beans were polyphenol oxidase are probably involved in further
roasted to 120°C, the catechin level in beans increased reactions responsible for the browning developed dur-
696% in unfermented beans, 650% in Ivory Coast ing alkalization (Miller et al., 2008).
beans, and 640% in Papua New Guinea fermented
beans compared to the same unroasted beans. These
results suggest that roasting in excess of 70°C gen- ANALYTICAL TECHNIQUES
erates significant amounts of (−)-catechin (Payne
et al., 2010). (−)-Catechin is generally formed during High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)
the manufacturing process by epimerization which is usually the method of choice for characterisation and
converts (−)-epicatechin into its epimer (−)-catechin quantification of polyphenols in chocolate. This method
(Hurst et al., 2011). The manufacturing process could is often used coupled with a variety of detectors such as
equally reduce the amount of (−)-epicatechin as com- UV/Vis, photodiode array (PDA), fluorescence, electro-
pared to procyanidins B2, B5, C1, and D. Epicatechin chemical (ECD), and mass spectrometry (MS) (Wollgast
concentrations can be used to predict the content of and Anklam, 2000). Cooper et al. (2007) improved this
other polyphenols, especially B2 and C1, and total method by using ultra-performance liquid chromatog-
polyphenols content. Finally, the (−)-catechin content raphy (UPLC).
is not predictable from the epicatechin content, and Antioxidant activity (ORAC), total polyphenols (TP),
it is the main form of polyphenol that varies accord- and flavanols of natural and processed cocoa powders
ing to manufacturing conditions and cocoa origin including the monomeric, oligomeric, polymeric, and
(Cooper et al., 2007). total flavanols of cocoa powders were studied by Miller

8. BEVERAGES
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8. BEVERAGES
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8. BEVERAGES

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