Facial and body

cosmetic massage
 Massage - a recap
Ø  Massein (from Greek language) – to press
with a hand, to knead.
Ø  Massage is a measured mechanical effect
to a patient’s/client’s body with a
therapeutic, cosmetic and relaxing
impact.
 History
Ø  Massage is one of the most ancient ways of treatment.
Already for ages in various cultures it has been used for
strengthening of human physical and mental health.

Ø  The origins of the most ancient massage can be tracked

in China in year 2698 b.c., there were medical schools
and schools of gymnastics, where doctors gained the
necessary knowledge of massage

Ø  The basics of contemporary massage were established

by Peter Ling
( 1776-1839).
 Massage is performed with:
Ø  hands
Ø  feet
Ø  apparatus
Ø  water
Ø  special brushes
Ø  cold
Ø  stones
Ø  etc.
 Massage is having effect :

Ø  Physiologically.
Massage is having effect
to a human body as a mechanic irritant.

Ø  Psychologically.Major part of the clients

perceive massage as a pleasant touch
giving a sensual feeling of comfort and
relaxation helping to appraise one’s body.
Physiological effect of massage
Ø  Humoral- mechanically and directly affecting the tissues
a formation of histamine, acetilholine and other
biologically active substances is favoured

Ø  Neuro-reflective- mechanical irritation is perceived by the

receptor apparatus in skin, muscles, tendons, cords and
internal organs transforming the mechanical energy in a
buck fever energy. Flow of impulses from afferent
nerves reach the cerebral cortices and thereby induces
reflector response reactions of the skin, muscles and
internal organs.

Ø  Mechanical- tissues are compressed and moved

thereby inducing an acceleration of intercellular fluid,
lymph flow and blood circulation.
 Completion of Client’s body
analysis and assessment sheet
Ø  Name, surname
Ø  Date of birth
Ø  Address, phone number
Ø  Medicine taken
Ø  Contraindication:
l  Acute skin diseases
l  High or low blood-pressure
l  Varicose veins
l  Recent operation
l  Pregnancy
l  Heart diseases
l  Epilepsy
l  Diabetes
l  Haematomas
l  Skin bruises
 Completion of Client’s body
analysis and assessment sheet
Ø  Occupation
Ø  Assessment of muscle tonus
Ø  Posture assessment
Ø  Skin condition
Ø  Cellulites
Ø  Fat deposits
Ø  Stretch marks
Ø  Weight, length, body mass index
Ø  Selection of massage zone- massage performed at a
particular area of the body or a massage for the whole
body
Ø  Recommendation for body treatment at home and at the
beauty saloon
Constitutional types of the body
Ø  Ectomorph
Ø  Mesomorph
Ø  Endomorph
 Celullite
Ø  Aesthetic,
cosmetic defect that visually
looks as an “orange peel”- a dimpled
appearance of the skin.
 Localised areas of cellulite

l  Hips
l  Buttocks
l  Thighs
l  Upper arms
l  Abdomen
 Stages of cellulite
1st stage

Lymphostasis in
subcutaneous adipose
tissues. Skin is even,
smooth without any
changes in color. It
takes longer time to
heal hematomas and
skin bruises. For
diagnosing it is
recommended to use
thermographic films.
 Stages of cellulite
2nd stage
Chronic lymph stasis,
venous stasis.
Alterations of skin
relief. Dimples are
more apparent at
muscle tension. When
touching, a lower skin
temperature is
observed.
 Stages of cellulite
3rd stage
Chronic lymph stasis,
venous stasis, a
deteriorated
microcirculation. Local to
a diffuse fibrosis in the
subcutaneous fat layer -
micronodules, which can
be palpated. Skin is
dimpled and looks like an
“orange peel”. Skin is
cold by touch. When
pressing on separate
thickening areas, one has
painful sensations.
 Stages of cellulite
4th stage
Cellulite is apparant also
at relaxed muscles.
Micronodules are
integrated in
macronodules. Due to
the microcirculatory
disorders, the skin in the
areas affected by cellulite
is cold with a bluish tone.
When pressing, one has
painful feelings.
Macronodules are also
called as cellulite stones.
 Posture deviations
Ø  Scoliosis
Ø  Lordosis
Ø  Kyphosis
 Indications
Preventive measures for all healthy humans!
Ø  Skin and muscle trophic disturbances
Ø  Celullite
Ø  Abatement of oedema
Ø  Hypertensic, painful muscles
Ø  Local fat deposits, obesity
 Contraindications:
Ø  Bad overall health condition-
heart, kidneys and liver
failure, fever, acute
respiratory diseases,
tonsillitis, sickness, vomiting,
Ø  Malignant diseases
Ø  Acute skin diseases
Ø  Dermal mycosis,
furunculosis, nettle-rash,
angioneurotic oedema,
Ø  Lymphadenitis
Ø  Joint inflammation
Ø  Thrombophlebitis,
thrombosis
Ø  Blood diseases
Ø  Chronic osteomyelitis
Ø  Acute pain
Ø  Hematoma, acute injuries
Ø  Acute ulcer stages
Ø  Uterine hemorrhage
Ø  Acute gynecological adnexitis
Ø  Psychic disorders
Ø  Pregnancy
 Topographical anatomy of the
back
Ø  Bones
Ø  Muscles
Ø  Blood-vessels, lymph nodes
Ø  Nerves
 Topographical anatomy of the
arm
Ø  Bones
Ø  Muscles
Ø  Bloodvessels, lymph nodes
Ø  Nerves
 Topographical anatomy of the
pelvis and leg
Ø  Bones
Ø  Muscles
Ø  Bloodvessels, lymph nodes
Ø  Nerves
 Topographical anatomy of the
abdomen
Ø  Muscles
Ø  Blood vessels, lymph nodes
Ø  Nerves
Ø  Internal organs
 Topographical anatomy of the
chest
Ø  Bones
Ø  Muscles
Ø  Blood vessels, lymph nodes
Ø  Nerves
Ø  Internal organs
 Effects of massage
To nervous system ( coordinates an integrated activity of all vital
functions of the human body):
Ø  Reduces activity of sympathetic nervous system
Ø  Reduces fatigue, stress and increases the mental work abilities
Ø  Improves the transmission of nerve impulse processes.

Heart-blood vessel systems:

Ø  Blood flows from the internal organs to skin and muscles
Ø  Expand peripheral blood vessels
Ø  Improve blood supply to tissues and accelerate capillary blood
circulation
Ø  Affect the tissue trophicity processes
Ø  Facilitate and accelerate venous blood circulation
Ø  Facilitate heart work and improve blood supply to cardiac muscle
Ø  Reduce blood pressure and decelerate heart rate
 Effects of massage
Lymphatic system:
Ø  Speed of the lymph flow in largest lymphatic vessels is four mm/
sec. Through the thoracic duct ( ductus thoracicus) all the lymph
flows through only six times in twenty-four-hours
Ø  Massage empties cells from the end-products of metabolism,
reduces lymph stasis and oedema.

Muscle system:
Ø  Affects the blood and lymph flow in muscles
Ø  Enhances elimination of lactic acid
Ø  Restores muscle capacity two to four times (the number of active
capillaries increases in muscles). In1mm² of the cross- section of
muscles there are opened and functioning 1400 of capillaries
Ø  Increases or reduces muscle tone
Ø  Most effective are kneading techniques ( petrissage)
 Effects of massage
Joint and ligament system:
Ø  Increases elasticity and agility of ligaments
Ø  Influences blood and lymph flow in bones and joints.
Ø  Most effectively works with friction.

Skin:
Ø  Purifies the skin from dead horny cells
Ø  Improves blood supply to tissues, increases skin
temperature
Ø  Affects the venous and lymph flow, decreases
oedemas
Ø  Improves skin and subcutaneous tissue trophicity
Ø  Enhances the activity of sweat and sebaceous glands
 Effects of massage
Ø  Respiratory system-
Ø  Reduces the frequency of breathing,
Ø  Increases the oxygen intake and the carbon dioxide elimination,
Ø  Improves the blood and lymph flow in respiratory organs and
muscles
Ø  Enhances expectoration

Ø  Digestive system-
Ø  Improves small intestine peristalsis,
Ø  Stimulates blood and lymph flow, thereby improving the absorption
of nutrients.
Ø  Increases secretion of bile
Ø  Internal organs are most effectively affected by vibration techniques
of massage.
 Effects of massage
Ø  Urogenital system-
l  Increases the elaboration of urine, mineral
salts, urea and uric acid.

Ø  Endocrine system-
l  Improves blood, lymph circulation, activates
functional activity of internal secretion glands.
Improves self-comfort.
 Requirements to cosmetician at
performance of massage :
Ø  Clothes: in a white color, with short sleeves, comfortable,
neat, well ironed
Ø  Hands: manicured, without nail varnish, short nails
Ø  Hair: clean, not falling onto eyes and face during the
procedure
Ø  Make-up: a light day make-up
Ø  Footwear: light, comfortable, neat, on a low heal or
without, not making noise
Ø  Bijouterie: no bijouterie( also no wedding ring), an
exception can be small earrings)
Ø  Perfume: no perfume
Hand training
Necessary materials and conditions
for performance of massage:
Ø  Couch
Ø  Chair
Ø  Towels of various sizes
Ø  Towels for compresses/ gloves
Ø  Movable table
Ø  Small pallets of various sizes
Ø  Skin disinfection liquid
Ø  Skin cleansing lotions (body peeling)
Ø  Massage creams and oils
Ø  Body masks, creams and lotions
Ø  Disposable panties
Ø  Auxiliary materials- napkins, spatulas, etc..
Ø  Clock
Ø  Temperature at premises may not be lower than 20-22°C.
Ø  Premises shall be painted in warm tones, filled with pleasant aroma and
enjoyable music
 Preparation of the client for a
massage
Ø  Client’s analysis and assessment sheet
shall be filled in
Ø  Clothes shall be taken off ( disposable
panties)
Ø  Bijouterie shall be taken off
Ø  Selection of massage pose
Ø  For performance of the back massage ,
hair band shall be used
Ø  Placement of the massage bolsters,
depending of the chosen pose
Placement of massage bolsters
Ø  When lying on back
l  Massage bolster is placed under the neck curve ( not
obligatory)
l  Placed under the knees – straighten out back/neck /
waist, hips and knee joint are placed in a
physiological position
Ø  When lying on belly
l  Massage bolster is placed under the feet joints.
Ø  When massaging the back, the bolster may be
placed under the belly.
Ø  Neck and head massage is performed on a
special chair
 Preparation of the client for a
massage
Ø  Cleansing of the skin
Ø  Application of the massage oil or cream
 Massage oils and lotions
Ø  Massage cream
Ø  Massage oil
Ø  Talc powder
Ø  Massage gel
Posture of cosmetician
 5 basic techniques/methods of
massage

Ø  Stroking ( effleurage)
Ø  Friction
Ø  Kneading( petrissage)
Ø  Percussion ( tapotement)
Ø  Vibration
 Massage techniques
Ø  Techniques of classical massage are
performed in a prescribed sequence and
manner, that are related to the intensity of
action and the depth.
Ø  Stroking- friction- kneading- percussion-
vibration
 Stroking( effleurage)

Ø  Hand of the masseur is gliding over the skin

without shirring it
Ø  This is the initial technique of the massage, also
performed in between the other techniques and
at the end of massage. The emphasis is put on
the middle part of the stroking.

Stroking

Flat Sublimis Simultaneous Continuous

Comprehensive Deep Alternately Interrupted
 Rules:

Ø  When performing stroking, palms of the hands

should fit tight to the client’s skin
Ø  There should be no space between the palm
and the skin
Ø  Hands should be relaxed
Ø  Stroking shall be performed gently, smoothly and
slowly in a direction of lymph flow-to the nearest
lymph node areas
 Effect of the stroking:

Ø  To get introduced to the client’s body

Ø  Exfoliation of epidermis
Ø  Improves blood provision to the skin
Ø  Improves venous and lymph flow, reduces
oedema
Ø  Relaxes skeleton muscles
 Friction
Ø  Amassage technique pushing aside the skin
Ø  Performed by fingers and palms
 Effect of friction :

Ø  Increases supply of blood and lymph to

the massage area- a warming effect
Ø  Loosening cicatrices
Ø  Anesthetic
Ø  Prepares the skin for the other massage
techniques
Ø  Improves the agility of joints
 Kneading ( petrissage)

Ø  Effecton muscles
Muscle shall be taken in hands, pressed on,
lifted upwards and put in the initial position

Ø  Longitudinalkneading- longitudinally
cross the muscle fibres
Ø  Cross-kneading – cross over the muscle
fibres
 Effect of the kneading:

Ø  Induces muscle hyperemia

Ø  Enhances elimination of metabolic end-
products from muscles- restores muscle
performance (reduces acidosis)
Ø  Improves muscle performance(muscular
endurance, strength, elasticity)
 Percussion (Tapotement)
- Very intense effect, increases blood pressure,
improves blood circulation, lymph flow, improves
muscle tone
Performed with palms of the hands, finger tips
Rules:
Ø  Shall not be applied if muscles are overworked,
exhausted and crampy
Ø  Arm wrists shall be relaxed
Ø  Shall not be performed on neck, heart area,
kidney area, abdomen, spinal cord, joints
 Vibration

Ø  a relaxing effect (reducing muscle

tension)
 Vibration
Ø  Vibration possesses a particular reflectory
and relaxing efffect
Ø  Heart rate is slowed down
Ø  Reflectory effect to internal organs-
normalizes the secretory and motor
functions of internal organs
 Sequence of overall massage
Ø  Back
Ø  Backs of the legs
Ø  Front of the legs
Ø  Abdomen
Ø  Chest
Ø  Arms
Length of massage depends on the scheme
of techniques and areas of treatment
-20-60-90 minutes.
Ø  Course of treatment-1-2-3 times a week,
treatment course up to 10 visits.
 Topographical anatomy of face
Ø  Bones
Ø  Muscles
Ø  Bloodvessels, lymph nodes
Ø  Nerves
 Facial skin types
Ø  Dry
Ø  Oily
Ø  Combined
Ø  Normal
Cosmetic facial classical massage
Massage areas:
Ø face;
Ø neck;
Ø decollete area.

Massage length: 20 min

 Indications:

Ø  Improvement of micorcirculation;
Ø  Enhancement of venous flow;
Ø  Improvement of facial muscles tone;
Ø  Toning up and correction of facial oval;
Ø  Smoothing of small, sublime wrinkles;
Ø  Relaxation of client;
Ø  Secondary – nutritioning of facial skin,
moisturising;
Ø  Recommended as prophylactic for clients aged
25-30.
Preparation of facial, neck and décolleté area
skin :

Ø Cleansing of facial, neck and decollete

area skin;
Ø Application of a hot compress ;
Ø Peeling;
Ø Application of vaposone steamer prior to
massage.
 Preconditions to be observed prior and
during the massage :

Ø  Creation of comfortable and pleasant environment during

the massage treatment (premises, decorations, pleasant
music, lighting, air temperature);
Ø  Avoidance of discussions with the client during the
procedure;
Ø  Selection of correct and suitable massage oil or cream;
Ø  Precise observance of Langer’s lines and fixation places;
Ø  Intensity of massage movements dependence on the
skin type and condition
 Additional Contraindications :

Ø  Purulent efflorescence;
Ø  Dermatitis, eczemas, psoriasis (only with a permission of
a physician );
Ø  Enlarged lymph nodes;
Ø  Herpes;
Ø  Acute respiratory diseases;
Ø  Recent visit to the dentist;
Ø  Cerebral commotion(up to 6 months);
Ø  Dizziness;
Ø  Dynamic blood circulation disturbances
Ø  Neo growths on face(oncology);
Ø  Infectious eye diseases;
Ø  Allergic reactions to the massage oil or cream.
Basic principles to be observed during a massage

Ø  Massage shall be performed slowly;

Ø  Langer’s lines shall be observed;
Ø  Hands shall not be taken off the face, neck or décolleté area
during the massage;
Ø  Massage movements shall not be applied in the area of thyroid
gland;
Ø  Joining movements that are performed against the Langer’s lines
shall be worked in a gentle manner without moving the skin aside;
Ø  Fixation places are performed in a precise manner;
Ø  Hand movements are gentle and plastic, fitting close to the face;
Ø  Time anticipated for the massage shall be observed – 20 minutes
( together with the décolleté area);
Ø  The applied massage oil or cream shall be enough during all the
treatment procedure.
 Short summary

Ø  Massage is among the most ancient medical therapies.

Ø  For prophylactic purposes, massage is recommended to any healthy individual
Ø  Massage has an effect on all organ systems of a human body.
Ø  Classic massage has five basic stroke techniques (four according to alternative
classifications). The strokes should be applied in a definite sequence dictated by the
intensity and depth of their effect.
Ø  The duration of a massage depends on the selected combination of techniques, the
number of treatment areas and may be 20-60-90 minutes.
Ø  Recommendable 1-2-3 times per week, up to 10 times in the massage therapy cycle.
Ø  Classical facial cosmetic massage is applied to the face, neck and decolette area and
lasts 20 minutes.
Ø  The facial massage cycle consists of 15-20 treatments 1-2 times per week; the cycle

to be repeated after 2 months.