UPDATE:

CAR IS AVAILABLE FOR SALE

http://www.pakwheels.com/used-cars/toyota-vitz-2008-for-sale-in-karachi-965368

Few days back I sold my Gli Auto 1.6 to buy Honda Civic but refrained to do so since Honda
changed it's shape again, most probably Pakistan will not get this new shape but still on my
side it's a big investment and I decided to wait another 6 months. I also needed a small car
for short trips, I decided to buy a Vitz 09-10 model but I ended up buying a 08 model.
Buying a used imported car is a big pain in the *** so I decided to share my experience
with you all, hopefully this thread will help many new buyers who are going for JDM.

My Garage History:

Toyota Corolla 04-07

Honda Civic 04-07

Toyota Corolla 11-12

My Current ride:

Toyota Vitz 08-09

General Tips
Auctioned Cars Vs Direct Purchases:

Auctioned Cars: Cars that are auctioned in Japanese Auto Auctions few of them are HAA,
CAA, TAA, JU etc
Direct Purchases: Cars which are bought directly from Japanese dealers

First of all when you are buying a used imported car always go for a auctioned one because
it is graded by an independent auction house who are strict with their grading policies and
they are clever enough to detect major issues, cars that are bought directly from Japnese
dealers (Direct Purchases) are mostly low grade vehicles with previous accident history (just
to maximize profits.

Rule 1: Always go for an auctioned vehicle, ask the dealer if he has an auction report of the
vehicle and if he says "App gadi done kardey sarey paper mil jaye ***" just leave that
dealership immediately.

Rule 2: After you select a good auctioned vehicle ask the dealer very nicely to give a copy of
the auction report for your verification purpose (most of the honest dealerships will give you
a copy)

Rule 3: A good auction vehicle may start from 3.5 grade having B grade interior/exterior,
never go for a 4 grade vehicle even if you are getting a good deal since 4 grade vehicles are
of high mileage in some case 100k+ on odo although a 4.5 grade vehicle has low mileage
having B grade for interior/exterior.
Rule 4: Always go for a low mileage auction vehicle even if it's 1 or 2 years older than you
are expecting, in my case I got 08 model although I was looking for 09 but this 08 model
was 200 times better as compared to 09 model since it was having 37k on odo.

Rule 5: Always buy a freshly imported vehicle, a fresh imported vehicle is not more than 3
months old since its landing on Karachi port.

How to verify an auction report online?

It's very simple and it will hardly take 1-3 minutes, when I was looking for Vitz I verified 16
auction reports most of them were fake and only 2-3 were original I took an iPad with me to
verify reports on the spot (just in case you are in a hurry you can do the same).

Method:

1. Take the auction report copy, extract following information from it

a) LOT NO (On top left of the report)

b) Make
c) Model
d) Year

2. Go to japan-partner.com (This site is in English language)

3. On top navigation bar you will find "Used Car Auctions" click on this option

4. Now you will seeing name of days in a week from Monday to Sunday click them all.

5. Click Market Price option

6. Enter rest of the details that we obtained in step 1 (form is self-explanatory)

7. Click search, voila now you have your car details online. Click on your car, match the
physical report with the online one and if everything matches up you are good to go.

How to check/inspect a used imported car?

1. Take the inspection sheet, identify the marks spotted on the sheet and verify if they are
accurate.

2. Always avoid cars with W1, W2 and X1 on the inspection sheet.

3. If you are getting a 3.5 with B interior/exterior just verify the inspection sheet from
above method and buy this car always prefer a low mileage vehicle having odo under 50k.

4. Always check the roof of the vehicle for any signs of repairing, since some vehicle get
damaged during shipping and handling by cargo staff.
5. If you are buying a car with Push start button, always prefer a car with two remotes
although you can easily get a new remote from the market but it costs 6-8k (I have also
devised a cheapest DIY solution for having duplicate remote under 2.5k cost, I will write a
separate article on this method)

6. Minimum vehicle idle or vibration is normal in jdm since it save fuel costs.

7. Verify engine and chassis number of the vehicle from inspection report.

8. Check mileage on the report match it with the current odo, a difference 1-2k miles is ok
but above that means dealership is using this car personally. On the report if you find
mileage in this format X KM * (X means number of miles) it means meter has been
reversed in Japan.

How to read an auction report? (Source: @chinyoti and Providecars.com)

Follow this link to get in-depth knowledge of reading Jap Auc Sheet (Props to
@wittycranium)

There will be a range of different quality levels within each grade, so a car that is classified
as a grade 4 may be almost a grade 4.5 in quality terms, or it may be only just above a
grade 3.5. As a buyer, you use the grading to narrow down the vehicles you may want to
bid on. Once you have narrowed down the field, this is when the car map and our
translation of the auction sheet will help you to make the final decision about whether to go
ahead or not.

There are usually two grades: The overall grade based on the exterior and mechanical
condition (usually a number), and the interior grade, based on the interior condition (usually
a letter - A, B or C). Although different auctions may have slightly different methods of
determining each grade, in general they are broadly similar. Let?s look in more detail at the
grading below.

Overall Grade

Grade 7, 8, 9 or S is given to a new car that is being sold in an auction, with only delivery
mileage.

Grade 6 Similar to the cars above but with a little more than delivery mileage.

Grade 5 to a car with exceptionally low mileage and in mint condition.

Grade 4.5 is in excellent condition, but can also have mileage of up to 100K.

Grade 4 is a good, solid car. Mileage is not an issue (could be low or high).

Grade 3.5 is similar to a grade 4 but may need more paint and panel work. Alternatively, it
may have high mileage.
Grade 3 often has either serious paint and panel, or it has had a panel replacement
somewhere. Grade 3 cars can also be basically grade 3.5s in terms of condition, but with
very high mileage.

Grade 2 is reserved for vehicles in the worst condition. This does not mean that they are
write offs, simply that they have experienced deterioration such that they are now in a very
poor state. A grade 2 vehicle will often have corrosion, perhaps corrosion holes and other
serious issues. If you are looking for ?classic? and other older cars or older trucks and
buses, you will find a number of them are grade 2.

Grade 1 Can be one of the following

1). After market turbo / engine (some sort of serious modification to the original vehicle)
2). Transmission changed from auto to manual.

Grade A, R, RA are repair history cars. The auctions definition of ?repair history? is a car
that has had an inside panel repaired in some way. This can range from extremely minor to
major.

Grade ??? are ungraded write off cars which may not move at all. Auctions provide no
information about these cars on the auction sheets. If the cars are drivable, then there
should be no additional transportation costs. However, if the motor does not start or if the
car cannot move under its own power for some other reason there may be problems in
getting it from the auction to the port, and then from the yard onto the ship. If the engine
does not start and is not steerable, transportation and port costs can skyrocket.

Exterior and Interior Grading

Some auctions have a letter, A, B or C to denote the exterior and interior grade separately.
These letters can be seen near the overall grading number. A is excellent, B average
and C below average.
We will normally not note the exterior grade, as the exterior condition of the car can be
ascertained by looking at the car map (see below). For the interior grade, we will normally
note this in the translation of the auction sheet if you bid on a car.

Exterior

A Scratch
U Dent
B Dent with scratch
W Wave, or repaired area
S Rust (orange discoloration on the surface)
C Corrosion (rust has progressed so that now the original metal is now flaking away)
P Paint marked
H Paint faded
XX Replaced panel / item
X Item that needs replacing
G Stone chip on glass
Y Crack
E Dimple
A sample auction sheet is explained here by [B
@chinyoti[/B]http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/news...-4#post3688391

Suggestions Made by Chinyoti:

One should definitely look for a fresh car, with auction sheet, but a final inspection by your
trusted denter/mechanic is important as well.

Personally when buying a used car my priority is to know about the history of that car,
(atleast one should know what it went thru).

If possible one should get a car direct delivered from the port, (these cars might cost more).

NEVER EVER get fooled by (push start, key less entry, navigation bla bla, if you get them
good, if you don't theirs always aftermarket available, the car it self should be of better
condition a car with goodies having blur headlights, scratches on body, cant be a 30k kms
driven car.

Cars with surface rust can be standing at the port or at a parking yard for quite long time
avoid such cars too (such cars are your last choice

I have bought a used imported vehicle, now what?

1. Change air, oil, cabin filters.

2. Change engine and transmission oil.

3. Change coolant (although not necessary)

4. Change tires and get wheel alignment done.

5. Get your interior cleaning done from professionals since Japs are big time smokers you
will get a pungent smell of tobacco from floor and seats.

6. Always get your engine tuned and brake service done as soon as you get the car.

I got all of my above work done at Auto Spa (situated in Defence Phase 1) professional and
educated guys providing top of the line service.

Most importantly: Get it insured from EFU (Yes I forced my choice here )

Please let us know some good dealerships in Karachi?

1. Quality Automobiles (I bought my Vitz from them, fixed prices but all their vehicles are of
good condition)

2. Safa Automobiles
3. Danish Motors

4. Shah Autos

All above showrooms are situated on Khalid-Bin-Waleed road. If you want my reference (for
discounts) at Quality Automobile I will be happy to help you since they used to work with
my late grandfather in early 80s.

How to Self Import a Used Japanese Car?

Method 1:

1. Visit Japan-Partner.com or any other legit site that let's you bid on auctioned cars. (I
have not dealt with this site in past, I am not sure of their legality but they seem legit from
online reviews and records, please do verification at your end too)

2. Select a vehicle (Auction Vehicle only !) start bidding, you can bid safely on 4.5 Grade
low mileage vehicles other grades may require report translation service which is also
offered on the website. (Service charges complete details are available on the website)

3. Pay for the vehicle, they require 100% advance payment shipping is also arranged by the
JP Inc.

4. You will get the complete documents by DHL or Fedex.

5. Now get a clearing agent to get your car out of the port, I am not sure about clearing
agents fees but it's around 2% of the car's value. It hardly takes 4-8 days for clearing
process.

Method 2: (Written By @chinyoti)

a) You select and finalize the car you want, Send money advance how ever you want the
deal to go, Car price is mostly CNF or CIF (cost and fright or Cost frieght and insurance)

b) Now ur clearing agent comes into play, he would arrange a passport (cars come on T/R
(transfer of residence) and P/B (personal baggage) schemes only) (charges are around 15-
20k)

c) Now your car is ready, the passport on whoose name the car would come in the the
consignee, and the car would arrive on his name

d) All documents are ready, your car is shipped takes around 30-45 days from Japan to
Karachi, While your car is on the ship, your supplier would DHL you the documents that are
B/L, and other documents etc,

e) Once your car arrives, your clearing agent would let you know about the duty, + other
charges + fees

Total Cost is = Car+Freight+Insurance+Clearing duty+other port charges +Passport fees

I will update this thread once, I will be free to write and share more stuff if you want to add
anything informative in this thread please feel free to do so. I will also add my ride pictures
in this thread in next 3 days, till then take care.