Wiring Electrical Circuits PDF

Study Unit
Wiring Electrical Circuits

iii
Preview
All electrical systems have one thing in common—they must be properly connected. Schematic diagrams
and wiring plans are needed to properly connect and maintain electrical systems. As an electrician,
you should be able to identify and understand the common wiring terms and symbols used in these
diagrams and plans. Although most of the branch circuits discussed in this study unit are based on
residential use, they may also apply to many commercial and industrial applications.
When you complete this study unit, you’ll be able to
· Differentiate between feeder and branch circuits
· Identify the correct type of general or special-purpose circuit when given a list of circuit
descriptions
· Describe how wiring is installed for branch circuits in a residence under particular situations
· Differentiate between portable, fixed, and stationary appliances and describe how each
type is wired
· Identify the components needed for an electrical circuit
· Calculate the current in a neutral conductor
· Calculate the size of service-entrance conductor needed for a residence

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Contents
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FUNDAMENTALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Parts of an Electrical System
Electrical Circuits
Types of Circuits
INSTALLING SERVICE-ENTRANCE COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Sizing and Installing Service-Entrance Conductors
Installing the Meter Base
Sizing and Mounting the Service Panel
Grounding and Bonding of Service and Equipment
Subpanels
LOCATING RESIDENTIAL DEVICES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Wiring Layout for a Small House
Location of Receptacles
Location of Switches
Location of Lighting Outlets
Listing of Residential Outlets
Area Requirements
GENERAL CIRCUIT WIRING CONSIDERATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

General-Purpose Circuits
Small-Appliance Circuits
Special-Purpose Circuits
Circuit Protection
Circuit Grounding
Other Circuits
SELF-CHECK ANSWERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
EXAMINATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
1
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FUNDAMENTALS

An electrical system may be compared to a tree. As the tree roots support
the tree trunk and branches, the electrical system, or service, supports the
service-entrance equipment and branch circuits. The type of electrical
service is determined by the public utility supplying the electric power.
Most electric utilities produce and distribute alternating current (AC)
power to their customers. (The distribution of direct current or DC power
by electric utilities has largely stopped.) While an industrial maintenance
electrician may still have to work on DC circuits, the vast majority of
residential circuits are AC powered. Therefore, this study unit will deal
mainly with AC power.
The typical residential service is 120/240 V (volts) single-phase AC
power. The slash between 120 and 240 means that both voltages are
available to the customer. The service-entrance equipment brings the
electric power into the building and then controls it before distributing
it to the branch circuits. The branch circuits are the circuits that supply
the loads. The electrical system within a building consists of many
components such as wires, fuses, circuit breakers, switches, and lamps
or other loads.
Figure 1 shows an electrical system for a residence. Industrial and
commercial systems use similar components in the same way. For
convenience, the explanations given in this study unit will be for a
residence, although the same rules apply to the complex wiring system
of a large industrial plant.
Parts of an Electrical System

Service equipment and wiring circuits can best be explained by studying
the wiring layout in Figure 1. Let’s start by looking at the service entrance.
It includes the service drop, service-entrance cables, watt-hour meter,
service-disconnecting means, and grounding conductor. Let’s look at
each individual part of the service entrance shown in Figure 1A.
· Service Drop. The utility company installs the service drop. Service-
drop conductors are shown coming from a utility pole to the first
attachment point on the building. Should the conductors come from
either a manhole or a pad-mounted transformer to the building,
they’re referred to as service lateral conductors. Figure 1B shows a
typical underground-service lateral system. The number of
conductors depends on the type of distribution system.
2 Wiring Electrical Circuits
FIGURE 1A—This drawing shows a typical electrical system with the service entrance highlighted.
· Service-entrance cable. The service-entrance cable continues from the

point of attachment to the building through the watt-hour
meter. Underground service might not require that you install
service-entrance conductors or cables. The reason is the service
lateral conductors, which run from the street mains (main electrical
distribution lines) to the building, are terminated by the Power
Company directly at the meter base.
· Watt-hour meter. The watt-hour meter is the device that measures
the energy used by the consumer. The utility company generally
specifies its location. The meter is installed between the service
drop or service lateral and the service-disconnecting means.
Wiring Electrical Circuits 3
FIGURE 1B—This drawing

shows an alternative
(underground) service
lateral configuration.
Remember that a system
also includes loads, like the
range and lamp, as well as
devices such as the
receptacle, light switch,
lamp holder, and circuit
breakers.
· Service-disconnecting means. The service-disconnecting means is

shown in Figure 1A. In this case, the disconnecting means is a
circuit breaker. Switches or fuses may also be used as disconnecting
means. The service-disconnecting device must be manually
operated. It must provide a visual means to tell whether it’s in the
open or closed position. In devices where a circuit breaker handle
operates vertically, the UP position shall be the ON position. The
service-disconnecting device must be mounted in an accessible
location near the service entrance. A service-overcurrent device
may also be contained within the service-disconnecting device. Each
ungrounded service-entrance conductor must have either a fuse or
circuit breaker in series with it. This prevents excessive current
draw caused by faults, overload of the building’s wiring, or an
excessive supply of electrical power delivered to the service entrance.
· Grounding conductor. The grounding conductor is a low-resistance

conductor connected between the ground and the identified neutral
wire of the alternating current service conductors or the housing
for the disconnecting means or both. In a typical installation, the
neutral wire is identified by its white or natural gray insulation and
the grounding conductor is either a bare conductor or green in color.
Let’s summarize what’s just been described about the service entrance.
It begins at the junction of the service drop and service-entrance cable;
it ends where the grounding conductor is grounded. Included in the
service entrance are the insulators and other materials used to support
the building end of the service drop. Service-entrance installations are
covered in detail in other texts.
To understand how power is fed into the home, let’s look at the right
side of the diagram in Figure 1A.
· Feeder cable. Feeder conductors extend the electrical system. The

feeder(s) is/are a cable or conductors between the load side of the
service disconnect and the branch circuit panelboard. Generally, no
loads are connected between those two points.
· Distribution panel board. The branch circuits are tapped off of the
feeders at the distribution panel board. Such panels contain fuses or
circuit breakers that protect the branch circuits. Although separate
distribution panel boards are shown in Figure 1, such a center may
be enclosed in the same cabinet as the service-disconnecting means.
Circuit breakers are shown for protecting the branch circuits. If
fuses were used as service-overcurrent devices, then the branch
circuits would normally also be protected by fuses. However, both
fuses and circuit breakers may be used in the same installation.
· Subpanel feeder cable. The subpanel feeder cable is an extension of the
main feeder. The conductors in this cable must be protected
by a circuit breaker or fuses in the main distribution panel. In
Figure 1, it’s shown as a cable between the two distribution panel
boards.
· Branch circuit cables. Figure 1A shows only four branch circuit ca-
bles extending from the distribution panel boards. This means that
only four of the 15 branch circuits are supplying loads. One of the
eight breakers shown in the first panel is protecting the subpanel
feeders. These four branch circuits are 120-V circuits that are sup-
plying a duplex receptacle, or convenience outlet, and a lamp that’s
controlled by a switch. Although only single loads are shown for
each circuit, the typical circuit would supply more than one load or
device of the same type, such as one circuit that supplies current to
several lamps in an area of the building.
The electric range uses a separate circuit breaker within the equipment
panel board. In this example, the range circuit is a 240-V circuit that’s
protected by a two-pole circuit breaker. In this study unit, you’ll learn
about the many types of branch circuits found in a modern residence,
and how to identify and install the required circuit components.
Electrical Circuits
Definition of a Circuit
According to the NEC, the term electrical equipment means any material,
fitting, device, appliance, or apparatus used as part of, or in connection
with, an electrical installation. The words equipment and component are
used interchangeably because each piece of equipment is a component
of the electrical installation. If electrical components are connected together
properly, they form an electrical circuit. Simply put, an electrical circuit
is the complete path followed by electric current.
A branch circuit consists of the conductors and devices installed between
the branch-circuit protection device (breaker or fuse) and the receptacle
or connection point of the load. Once an appliance or load is either
plugged into or connected to the receptacle or connection point, those
components used to plug in or connect to the branch circuit become part
of the circuit. These components are sometimes referred to as the “load
circuit,” although the electrical trade doesn’t recognize this phrase in
defining circuits.
Circuit Components
Figure 2 shows the five basic types of components in a simple electrical
circuit. All electrical circuits include, at the very least, the following three
components—the power source, load, and conductors that join them.
In Figure 2, a transformer is used as a power source and conductors join
the transformer to a lamp. This is the electrical load or destination.
Even without the fuse and switch, a complete circuit would still exist. The
power source may originate from a panel board, transformer, battery, or
generator. Most circuits contain at least one or more electrical devices
such as switches, which are control devices, or fuses, which are protective
devices. Many circuits also have circuit breakers, devices that both protect
and control the circuit. A receptacle is a convenience device, used with a
mating plug. A plug makes it easy to connect a conductor between the
power source and load.
FIGURE 2—A simple circuit

will always contain at least
three of the five different
components shown
here—the power source,
load, and conductors.
SOURCE
L2 L1
120V
SWITCH
CONDUCTORS
FUSE
LOAD
Types of Circuits
Electric circuits have names such as series circuits, branch circuits, 120-V
circuits, high-voltage circuits, and remote-control circuits. The different
names can be very confusing, especially when the same circuit is called
by more than one name. Often, two or more names are combined to give
a complete and accurate description of the circuit.
The following list shows how circuits are described in terms of their
characteristics.
Circuit Characteristics Common Descriptive Terms

Wiring connection Series, parallel, compound, delta, wye
Number of wires Two-wire, three-wire, four-wire
Number of phases Single-phase, polyphase, three-phase
Type of grounding Grounded neutral, ungrounded neutral, with ground
Electrical variables High-voltage, low-voltage, high-ampacity, wattage, 60-Hz (hertz)

frequency, low-capacitance, high-impedance
Wiring method Cable, busway, cable bus, conduit, direct burial

Circuits can also be classed in terms of the type of customer, area

served, section of the total installation, type of load, function, and even
the method used to control them. The following list shows common
descriptive terms for these classes.
Classes of Circuits Common Descriptive Terms

Customer type Residential, commercial, industrial
Area served Hazardous, outdoor, weatherproof, raintight
Section of installation Service entrance, feeder, branch
Type of load General-purpose, lighting, small appliance
Function Power, communications, alarm, control
Method of control Manual, automatic, remote control
Often there’s no clear-cut category for a circuit. The name of the circuit
used at any one time depends on the circuit characteristics being
discussed at that time.
Series and Parallel Circuits

When several parts or devices are used in a wiring system, their circuits
may be interconnected in various ways. The two basic connections of
electric circuits are series and parallel.
In a series circuit, all parts are connected end-to-end, like the links in a
chain. This connection forms a closed-path circuit as in Figure 3A. A
basic rule for a series circuit is that the same current flows through each
part. If 10 A (amperes) flows through the switch, then 10 A will flow
through the fuse and through each of the heaters. However, the voltage
drop across each part in a series circuit is different and depends on the
resistance of that part and the amount of current flowing through it.
In the parallel circuit shown in Figure 3B, two or more parts are connected
across the same voltage source. The two heaters and fan are connected
in parallel or in shunt with each other and the power source. The basic
rule for a parallel circuit is that the same voltage exists across each of the
parallel-connected parts. The current branches off and a portion flows
through each of the parallel branches. The total of the currents in the
branches if added will be equal to the total current if measured at the
source. This means that the higher the resistance of a branch, the lower
the current through that branch. If a series circuit is broken (or opened)
at one point, the entire circuit’s dead. No current flows in any part of it.
If one of the branches in a parallel circuit is disconnected (or opened),
the current in the other branches continues to flow. Therefore, an open
circuit in one branch of a parallel circuit doesn’t stop current flow in
other branches.
FIGURE 3—When a series circuit is opened, no current flows. In a parallel circuit, one branch can
be opened, and current will still flow through the others.
Combination Circuits
Parts of a wiring system may be connected in a combination of series
and parallel circuits. Figure 4 shows two diagrams of a heater circuit. In
the schematic view, the heater and switch are connected in series with
each other. The fan motor is connected in parallel with them. The circuit
has two parallel branches. One branch has only one part, the fan motor;
the other branch contains two parts in series, the heater and the switch.
In this heater diagram, the switch controls only the heating element, not
the fan. This is a series-parallel combination, or compound circuit.
RED SWITCH RED

FAN
BLACK SWITCH
BLACK BLACK
BLACK
WHITE WHITE MOTOR
SOURCE
TERMINALS M FAN MOTOR HEATER
WHITE HEATER
WHITE WHITE
COMMON WIRE
SOURCE
TERMINALS
LINE CORD
FIGURE 4—This shows schematic and pictorial diagrams of the same heater/fan circuit.
The pictorial diagram in Figure 4 labels the colors of the wires. Note
that one side of each branch has a white wire. These white wires are
connected to the common white wire, which leads to a source terminal.
The red wire from the switch and the red wire from the fan motor are
connected to the black wire. The black wire then leads to the other
source terminal. Remember that in Figure 4, the common wire is white
and all white wires are connected together.
Remember that the same voltage exists across each branch of a parallel
circuit. For that reason, electrical loads are designed to operate at certain
standard voltages. All loads in a typical residence that require alternating
current operate at either 120 or 240 V. Industrial and some commercial
equipment are designed to operate at these or higher standard voltages.
No matter what the voltage is, all loads will be connected in parallel
with the voltage source.
Electrical devices that protect and control an entire circuit or branch of a

circuit will be connected in series with the portion of the circuit wiring or
the load that the devices protect or control. For that reason, electrical
devices such as fuses, circuit breakers, and switches are rated based on
the amount of current they must handle.
Circuit Variables
Most circuits you’ll be dealing with are parallel circuits. These circuits
have the same voltage for all the parallel loads. Suppose you’re going
to connect a new electrical load in a parallel circuit. You’ll need to
know the circuit’s operating voltage and the branch circuit conductor’s
current-carrying capacity, or ampacity. Suppose the existing circuit is
rated at 120 V and 20 amperes; the new load will be connected to the
existing circuit to put it in parallel with the circuit. It’s critical that the
sum of the currents of all the parallel loads, including the newly added
load, doesn’t exceed 20 amperes.
Two- and Three-Wire Circuits

The circuits discussed so far have been two-wire circuits consisting of an
ungrounded hot wire and a grounded neutral wire. Figure 5 shows that
two such circuits running near each other have a total of four wires.
Note that lines a and b are hot (ungrounded) conductors. The remaining
lines n are the neutrals. These neutrals are connected together at the
neutral bus in the panel board. If lines a and b are supplied by opposite
sides of the service entrance, the current will flow as shown by the arrows.
“Opposite sides of the service entrance” means that if line a is supplied
by the black service-entrance wire, line b will be supplied by the red
service-entrance wire. In this configuration, the voltage between lines a
and n (or b and n) is 120 V, while the voltage between lines a and b is 240 V.
FIGURE 5—This shows

examples of two- and
three-wire circuits.
Since the neutral conductors are connected together at the panel board,
they’re one-wire. Why use two wires when one will do? It’s important to
note that a three-wire 120/240-V circuit will do the work of two, two-wire
120-V circuits. However, opposite phase conductors sometimes share
the same neutral as in the three-wire (multi-wire) circuit shown in
Figure 5. If the neutral is disconnected or interrupted, the circuit would
become a series circuit with a nominal voltage of 240 V! The load, if not
rated for the higher voltage, would most likely be damaged or destroyed
by the higher voltage. For this reason, it’s very important to be cautious
in disconnecting neutral conductors in a panel.
Assume that equal loads of 20 A each are present on the multi-wire
circuit (which in this case is a three-wire circuit) in Figure 5. Then 20 A
flows in lines a and b, but the two arrows on the neutral n are in opposite
directions. Thus, the currents cancel and no current flows in the neutral.
The result is no voltage drop in the neutral and less voltage drop in each
circuit.
When the currents are unequal there’s less current in the neutral than in
either hot conductor. As an example, if line a is carrying 20 A and line b
is carrying 15 A, then the neutral n is carrying 5 A (20 – 15 = 5 A).
Although the neutral current now is no longer zero, it’s still much less
than either line current. This example remains there even when the sin-
gle loads in Figure 5 are replaced by several smaller loads located where
needed. However, this is true only if their current is drawn equally from
each of the two sides of the circuit.
Grounded Circuits
You’ll remember that the neutral wire in a two-wire system is grounded
or connected to the earth. When the neutral wire is connected to the earth,
it’s a grounded conductor because it carries current during normal circuit
operation. Don’t confuse the grounded conductor with the grounding
conductor. The grounded conductor is part of the current-carrying electrical
circuit whose function is to provide a circuit path and stability to the level
of voltage. A grounding conductor, on the other hand, isn’t a current-
carrying conductor. Its function is to provide safety and protection to
both personnel and equipment with a low impedance path to ground in
case of a short in the electrical system.
The grounded conductor or neutral wire must be kept continuous. In
residential wiring, the neutral wire is never interrupted by a fuse, circuit
breaker, switch, or other device. In industrial wiring, the neutral wire
may be interrupted, but only if the ungrounded wires and the neutral
wire are interrupted at the same time.
Circuit Description by Load Type

A circuit is often named after or described by the equipment (or load)
to which it delivers power. Here’s an example. Some residential circuits
are called small-appliance, general-purpose, electric range, and electric
dryer circuits. Each of these circuits has its own basic characteristics.
Given the type of load, an experienced electrician could identify many
of the circuit characteristics. The electrician would know such features as
voltage, ampacity, number of phases, and number and size of conductors.
Industrial branch circuits aren’t as standardized as residential circuits.
However, given the load (such as a motor or lighting equipment), many
of the circuit characteristics and much of the circuit equipment can often
be determined.
Circuit Description by Function

So far, you’ve learned about the standard types of circuits used in electrical
wiring systems. There are, however, many special circuits and auxiliary
circuits. These circuits are also described by the function they serve or
by the method by which they’re controlled. These circuits may include
emergency power, hazardous-area, alarm, communication, and control
circuits. The following briefly describes the first four of these circuits.
Control circuits will be discussed in a later section.
Emergency power can be distributed in one of two ways. Either the

emergency power source, such as a diesel-powered generator or battery
supply, can be switched directly into the main feeder and branch circuits,
or the emergency power system may be equipped with its own separate
feeders and branch circuits.
Another type of circuit is the hazardous-area circuit. It’s unique in that the
circuit requires special explosion-proof devices and fittings. The
electrical loads on these circuits, such as motors and lamps, must be of
special construction.
Other unique circuits include alarm circuits, doorbell or chime circuits,

fire alarm circuits, and control circuits. Some of these circuits operate
on low voltages such as 12 V, 16 V, or 24 V. Figure 6 shows how a door
chime circuit might be connected. The transformer shown in Figure 6
could be replaced by a battery in an emergency situation without affecting
the chime’s operation. Control circuits are often found in industrial
facilities and are used to transfer or transmit electrical control signals
from one location to another.
FIGURE 6—The two-door

chime can be wired to
sound a double note for the
front door and a single note TRANSFORMER
TWO-DOOR
for the back door. L CHIME
T FRONT BACK
S-1
FRONT-
DOOR
SWITCH
S-2
BACK-
DOOR
SWITCH
BLOCK DIAGRAM FOR A

TWO-DOOR CHIME CIRCUIT
Control Circuits
Control circuits are the next most common circuits an electrician has to
work on beside branch and feeder circuits. That’s why you, the electrician,
must have a thorough understanding of basic electricity and be able to
read and understand control drawings. Control circuits are commonly
used to regulate or control the supply of electrical power to a load. They
may either switch the power on or off or may adjust the power to a
desired level. Some control circuits are very simple while others are
quite complex.
Many major home appliances and a majority of the electrical equipment

in an industrial setting have control circuits. Figure 7 shows a simplified
schematic for a home air conditioner. The compressor and fan motor are
the two obvious main loads in the circuit. The other circuit devices—switch,
temperature control, and the two capacitors—are control devices. These
devices determine when and how long the electrical loads are operated.
In the control drawing for the air conditioner, the heavy black dots in the
mode switch indicate which connections are energized for the various
modes of operation. In the HI FAN position, notice that line terminal L is
connected only to terminal 1, which goes to the fan motor.
FIGURE 7—This shows a control circuit schematic for an air conditioner.

Review
Circuits may be referred to by different names but all circuits are basically
common to one another in that each circuit or group of circuits has three
components—a source of power, conductors, and an electrical load.
Most circuits will also likely contain protective and control devices.
As you gain more experience as an electrician, you should be able to

describe the types of circuits in this study unit and their characteristics.
✔ Self-Check 1
At the end of each section of Wiring Electrical Circuits, you’ll be asked to check your under-
standing of what you’ve just read by completing a “Self-Check.” Writing the answers to these
questions will help you review what you’ve learned so far. Please complete Self-Check 1 now.
1. The conductors that run in the air from a utility pole to the first point of attachment on a
building are called the ________ ________.
2. The two components in Figure 2 that provide the necessary circuit protection and control
are the fuse and the _______.
3. Protective and control devices are connected in _______ with the load.
4. Electricity is distributed by most electric utilities as _______ current.
5. In a three-wire 120/240-V circuit, if the current in line a is 17 A and the current in line b is
8 A, the current in the neutral is _______ A.
6. A _______ conductor is connected to the earth and doesn’t carry current during normal
operation.
7. When you call a circuit an electric heater circuit, or a motor circuit, you’re referring to it by
the type of _______ it supplies.
8. Name two types of special or auxiliary circuits.
_______________________________________________________________________________
9. If you’re installing an electrical system in a hazardous area, you must be sure to use
_______ devices and fittings.
Check your answers with those on page 83.
INSTALLING SERVICE-ENTRANCE COMPONENTS

Now that you’ve reviewed circuit theory and components let’s consider
placing and sizing the actual components that make up a typical electrical
system. Keep in mind that the typical residential electrical system includes
service drop or lateral feed, service-entrance conductors, weather head,
watt-hour meter, service panel, grounding electrode, grounding
conductor, feeders, branch circuits, and various devices. You’ve also
learned how to route conductors for branch circuits and how to select
the various electrical devices most commonly installed. Later in this study
unit, you’ll learn to properly design branch circuits and specify the
correct number of devices for each part of the dwelling. First, however,
electricians should understand how the service-entrance components
are sized and installed. This section provides the information needed to
properly lay out and install a residential electrical system that’s safe,
convenient, and code compliant.
Sizing and Installing Service-Entrance Conductors

As learned earlier, the service-entrance conductors provide the path by
which power moves from the service drop, to the watt-hour meter, and
to the service-entrance panel. These conductors are sometimes part of the
service-entrance cable (SE cable). In other installations, they’re individual
conductors that run inside conduit. Electricians should follow standard
wire-ampacity guidelines to size the service-entrance conductor to
match the maximum-amperage rating of the service. For instance, if the
main disconnecting switch and panel board are sized for 200 A, then 2/0
or 3/0 copper wire may be used for the service-entrance conductor. In
this particular case, while the NEC specifies that a 2/0 copper wire has a
maximum ampacity of 200 amps, the electrician may install the next
largest conductor size for safety and future additions.
However, the local code may dictate that the service load be calculated
using established methods. One such method is the optional calculations
for dwelling units described in Article 220-30 of the NEC. The following
steps show how to compute the estimated load on the hot and neutral
service-entrance conductors using this method. A sample calculation will
follow.
Follow Steps 1 through 6 to calculate the service conductor load.
Step 1: Calculate the volt-ampere (VA) load for the general lighting
and receptacles. Find this by multiplying the total square footage
of the building by 3 VA as stated in Article 220-30(b)(2) of the
NEC. (Note that to convert VA to kVA you divide by 1000.)
Save this number for a later calculation.
Step 2: Calculate the volt-ampere loads of the kitchen and laundry

branch circuits by adding together the total number of 2-wire,
20-ampere, small-appliance branch circuits in the kitchen and
each laundry branch circuit. Multiply this number by 1500 VA
as discussed in Article 220-30(b)(1) of the NEC. Save this result
for a later calculation.
Step 3: Add together all the volt-ampere load ratings (stamped on
nameplates) of appliances that are secured in place (except
air-conditioning and heating units) as discussed in Article
220-30(b)(3) of the NEC.
Step 4: Calculate the total volt-ampere demand load from the last three
steps by applying the demand factors listed in Table 220-30 in
the NEC to the calculated total.
Step 5: Find the larger of the heating or air-conditioning load rating

(not both) and apply the demand factors as listed in Article
220-30(c). Air-conditioning or heat pumps are calculated at
100%, while space heating is calculated at 65% for three or less
units, and 40% for four or more units. Add this number to the
total demand load found in Step 4.
Step 6: Divide the total found in Step 5 by the system voltage, usually
240 volts. The result is the amperage rating for the service
conductors as covered in the NEC Article 310-16.
Follow Steps 7 through 8 to calculate the neutral conductor
load.
Step 7: Add the general load found in the first step with the kitchen
and laundry loads in the second step. Begin the neutral con-
ductor calculation by counting the first 3000 VA at 100%, or
3000VA. Combine this with 35% of the remaining VA from
steps 1 and 2. Now add 100% of the dishwasher VA, and 70%
of the range and the dryer VA.
Step 8: Divide this total by the system voltage (240 volts) and the
answer is the amperage. According to Article 310-16 of the NEC,
you’ll use this number to determine the required neutral
conductor type and size for this residence.
Example: Find the total estimated load on the hot and neutral
load service-entrance conductors for a dwelling with a total of
2500 square feet. The dwelling contains a 3 kVA or 3000 VA
water heater, 1.5 kVA or a 1500 VA dishwasher, and a 5 kVA or
5000 VA air conditioner. It also contains four or more combined
space heaters of 15 kVA or 15000 VA, a 5.5 kVA or 5500 VA
dryer, and a 12 kVA or 12000 VA range.
Solution: Follow Steps 1 through 8 above.

Step 1: Calculate the lighting and receptacle load.
2500 sq ft ´ 3 VA/sq ft = 7500 VA (7.5 kVA)

Step 2: Add together the two NEC-required small-appliance kitchen
circuits, and one laundry branch circuit.
3 ´ 1500 VA = 4500 VA (4.5 kVA)

Step 3: Determine rating total of all secured appliances except heating
and air conditioning.
Range 12000 V
dryer 5500 VA
water heater 3000 VA
dishwasher 1500 VA
Total 22000 VA
Step 4: Total the figures from Steps 1 through 3.
7500 + 4500 + 22000 = 34000 VA
Apply this to the demand factors based on the optional method

found in the NEC.
100% of the first 10 kVA 10,000
40% of the remaining 24 kVA (34000 – 10000 = 24000)
24000 ´ .40 = 9600
Total: 10000 VA + 9600 VA = 19600 VA

Step 5: Add 40% of the larger of the two heating and air conditioning
loads to the total from Step 4.
Total from Step 4 19600 VA

40 % of the heating (15000 ´ .4) +6000 VA
Total 25600 VA
Step 6: Divide the total in Step 5 by the provided voltage.

25600 VA ÷ 240 V = 106.6 A
Keep in mind that conductors should be sized so that the esti-

mated amperage load doesn’t exceed 85% of the conductor’s
rated capacity. For a system with an estimated load of 130 A,
the NEC (Table 310-16) requires the service conductors to be
equal to or greater than the diameter of #2 AWG wire. Note
that 85% of 130 A is 110.5 A, which is close to 106.6 amperes.
However, the service conductors in most situations will be
sized in accordance to the standard rating of the service equip-
ment. In this situation, the service equipment will most likely
be rated at 200 amperes since 130 amperes isn’t a common rating
for service equipment and, therefore, the service conductors

must be large enough to handle 200 amperes.
Step 7: To determine the service feeder neutral load, apply the
appropriate demand factors to all of the loads:
100% of the first 3000 VA 3000

(Step 1 + Step 2 – 3000 = 9000)
35% of the remaining load (.35 ´ 9000) 3,150

100% of the dishwasher 1,500
70% of the range (12000 ´ 0.7) 8,400
70% of the dryer ( 5,500 ´ 0.7) 3,850

Total 19,900
Step 8. Divide 240 V into the total neutral demand found in Step 7.
19 ,900 dVA
= 82 .9 A
240 dV
Answer: A minimum of a #4 AWG copper conductor is
required for the service neutral conductor.
Note that the power company must approve the selected location of the
meter base. The electrician will supply the power company with the
service-entrance cable hookup point (covered by a weatherhead or similar
device), then install a meter base and service panel (Figure 8A). The
electrician will then run the service-entrance cable from the meter base
to the hookup point and from the load side of the meter base to the service
panel, making sure the grounding electrode and grounding conductor
are installed. Only then will the power company hook up their cable,
splice their incoming line to the installed service-entrance cable, and
install and seal the watt-hour meter in the meter base (Figure 8B).
Electricians must follow the NEC and local codes closely when placing
the service-entrance cable. The minimum height of the power line above
pedestrians or vehicle traffic, the size of the conduit required (when
conduit is used), and the space between cable clamps (when service-
entrance cable is used) are all closely specified by the NEC (Figure 9).
Local codes sometimes expand on the requirements of the NEC but never
reduce the requirements. Always check local codes and ordinances before
installation to assure compliance. When calculating clearance heights
and conductor lengths, remember to account for the amount of conductor
the power company will require for a drip loop and splicing. It’s typically
acceptable to leave a minimum of two feet of excess cable beyond the
weatherhead. The local power company sometimes specifies the length
of excess cable to be extended beyond the weatherhead.
FIGURE 8—(A) shows a typical service-drop installation while (B) shows how the power company uses splices
to connect the service drop to the service-entrance cable the electrician has installed.

service-entrance cable WEATHERHEAD
support requirements.
CLAMPS
NO MORE
THAN 30"
BETWEEN
CLAMPS
(DEPENDING ON
LOCAL CODES)
NO MORE
THAN 12"
METER BASE
Installing the Meter Base

As you learned earlier, the power company installs the watt-hour meter
in a residential application. The power company also supplies the meter
base (or meter socket) but the electrician must install it. Likewise, the
power company must approve the location of the meter base. However,
it’s important that the electrician follow local codes and/or utility regu-
lations that often govern the meter base’s exact placement. Ordinances
may include its height off the ground, and how power is run from the
meter to the service panel. In addition, the meter base capacity must
match the rating of the system and the system configuration (above
ground versus below ground). For example, the meter base for a 200 A
service won’t suffice if a 400 A service is to be installed.
Sometimes the meter base will be located on the opposite side of the
wall from the service panel, as illustrated in Figure 8A. When these two
pieces of equipment are located back-to-back, the job of completing the
service-entrance circuit is much easier and less expensive. However, the
electrician usually doesn’t decide on the location of the service.
If the meter base and service panel aren’t located back-to-back, a longer
run of service-entrance conductor will be needed from the meter base to
the panel. This means that a service disconnecting means will be needed
to control the power within that additional run of service cable in case of
a short circuit. If the meter base and service panel are mounted back-to-
back, routing the wires from the base to the panel is simple. First, to mount
the meter base on the outside of the house, remove the knockouts from
the back of the base (designed to allow conductors to run from the base
to the panel box). Hold the meter base level against the building with the
correct side facing up. Trace the shape of the box opening onto the wall,
remove the box, and cut a hole slightly larger than the one traced.
Obviously, don’t cut through any wall studs because they’re designed
to support the structure.
Now attach any required conduit fittings to the meter base. Conduit
fittings attached may be those that accept the service-entrance cable from
the drip loop or ones that route the cable onto the panel box. Remember
that for an overhead service the connector on the top of the meter base
must be watertight and matched to the size conduit or service-entrance
cable being installed. The service-entrance cable from an underground
service will always be installed in conduit and fed into the bottom of the
meter base. In this case, the conduit will be joined to the meter base with
a standard conduit fitting.
Next, coat the wall around the outside of the hole with a heavy bead of
sealant. Make sure the meter base is level and fasten the meter base to
the wall using screws or appropriate anchors. To provide additional
sealing against moisture, place an additional bead of sealant where the
top and two sides of the meter base meet the wall. Don’t seal where the
bottom of the meter base meets the wall because moisture that seeps in
from the top or sides needs to exit the space behind the meter base.
Connecting the Service-Entrance Conductors to the

Meter Base
The next step in completing the electrical service is to install the service
entrance conductors from the weatherhead (for service drops) and
terminate them on the line side (top) terminals of the meter base. If
sheathed cable (SE) is installed inside conduit, be sure to remove only
enough sheathing so that the sheathing extends through the weatherproof
connector on the top of the meter base. You won’t normally need to
install the service entrance conductors for lateral feed as the power com-
pany will usually do this. Strip enough insulation from the end of the
conductors for the connections (normally 3 4 to 1 inch). Connect the incom-
ing service-entrance conductors to the meter base. If the service-entrance
cable is aluminum, the stripped portion of the conductor must be coated
with an antioxidant compound before the conductors are connected to
the meter base.
When hooking up the meter base, remember that the incoming power
line is attached to the top (line side) terminals, while the conductors that
exit the meter base and feed the service panel will connect to the bottom
(load side) terminals. This is shown in Figure 10. In higher-amperage

services where two parallel service-entrance cables are used, the hookup
procedure is the same except the two conductors per phase are attached
to a special double terminal inside the meter base. When cables are installed
in parallel, it’s very important that service conductors of like phases be
kept together. This requires marking the conductors in the meter base
and at the weatherhead (where the power company will hook up) so
that the opposite phase conductors aren’t connected together.
upper and lower terminals
connected to the base.
L1 L2
NEUTRAL
CONDUCTOR
TWO HOT
CONDUCTORS
NEUTRAL
CONDUCTOR
TWO HOT
CONDUCTORS
Wiring from the Meter to the Service Panel

If the meter base and service panel are back-to-back, run a section of
conduit through the wall from the back of the meter base so that it enters
the back of the panel as was shown earlier in Figure 8A. The conduit will
often be a presized galvanized rigid-conduit nipple. The nipple will
be installed with locknuts on both sides of the meter base’s and panel
board’s sheet metal wall. The locknuts ensure that the conduit will pro-
vide a good ground path from the base to the panel box. In addition to
the locknuts, the electrician should always install one conduit bushing
on the inside of the meter base, and one conduit bushing on the inside of
the panel. This provides a smooth contact edge for the conductors to en-
ter and exit the conduit nipple.
It’s more likely that the service panel won’t be located directly on the
other side of the wall from the meter base. If not, the service-entrance
cable will exit the bottom of the meter base, and may enter the dwelling
as shown in Figure 11.
FIGURE 11—In this example,
a service-entrance cable
exits the bottom of the
meter base, enters the
basement, is routed through
a main disconnect mounted INSIDE WALL
nearest the point of
basement entrance, and
enters the panel.
METER MAIN FLOOR

BASE OF HOUSE
SE
CABLE
PANEL
BOX
SERVICE
OUTSIDE DISCONNECT
WALL
BASEMENT
Before finishing your final systems design and certainly before purchasing
materials or submitting a material list or bid, the electrician should lay
out the complete service entrance on paper. One erroneous dimension
could result in several improperly placed systems components. Both
NEC requirements and local code requirements must be reviewed
prior to installing any components to assure compliance. Consider easily
forgotten components such as grounding rods, grounding conductors,
clamps, connectors, anchors, fittings, anti-oxidant (for aluminum
conductors) and other miscellaneous hardware when preparing a
material list or bid.
Sizing and Mounting the Service Panel

It’s critical that you install a service panel with enough capacity to
handle a reasonable amount of future expansion in the electrical system.
It’s very likely that the homeowner will some day want to modify the
dwelling in a way that requires additional branch circuits and/or in-
creased load capacity. Although a load calculation may be done prior to
installation, it’s always best to size the system larger to accommodate
later expansion or additions. If load calculations conclude that the
system will require 150 amps, it’s good practice to install a 200-amp
panel. In fact, electricians should probably install at least a 200 ampere-rated
service in most modern-day residential systems. The NEC requires the
service to be rated no less than 100 amperes for a one-family residence
(Article 230-79[c]).
Of course, some dwellings will need more than a 200-amp service. If
your load calculations or other factors indicate a need for a higher am-
perage service, 250 amps for instance, install at least a 300-amp service.
Based on material and labor cost factors, you or someone else will
need to decide whether it’s more economical to install a single 300-amp
panel or 200- and 100-amp panels side-by-side.
Panels are also rated based on the number of breakers they hold. The
largest-capacity 200-amp panels may hold up to forty-two circuit breakers.
In most cases, you should select the panel within the target amperage
range that’s capable of holding the most breakers.
Finally, remember that the electrician is ultimately the person who must
hook up the panel. When working with different panel designs, try to
pre-evaluate them for ease of assembly and growth. The location of
neutral buses, the arrangement of breaker installation, and several other
features contribute to making the panel either easier or more difficult to
wire.
Sizing and Installing the Main Breaker

In some residential installations, the service disconnecting means will
be the main breaker in the service panel. When this is the case, the main
breaker controls and protects two of the four conductors entering the
panel, as shown in Figure 12. The switched conductors are always the
two hot conductors. When the main breaker in the service panel serves
as the main disconnecting device, it must be labeled “Service Discon-
nect.” The other two conductors entering the panel (neutral and ground)
are connected to the neutral bus and grounding bar (not shown) respec-
tively. The neutral bar must be bonded to the panel enclosure using a
bonding screw that’s normally supplied with the panel enclosure. You’ll
learn more about bonding in a later section.
FIGURE 12—This shows a

panel enclosure with a
main-breaker switch.
If the service disconnecting means is installed indoors but not in the

service panel, it should be located as closely as possible to the point
where electrical power enters the building. Sometimes this requires it to
be located in its own separate enclosure, in line with the service-entrance
circuit, and ahead of the service panel.
Installing Circuit Breakers

Later in this study unit, you’ll learn how branch circuits are laid out in a
typical dwelling, and why the components in one branch circuit must be
separated electrically from other branch circuit components. For now,
however, assume that each branch circuit has been determined and the
various loads in the dwelling are connected to these branch circuits. You
may have twelve general lighting circuits (15 A), two small-appliance
(20 A) circuits serving the kitchen, one 20 A branch laundry circuit, one
20 A branch workshop circuit, and several dedicated branch circuits
serving the dryer, water heater, range, and electric heat pump. As you
now know, each of these branch circuits requires its own breaker and
in many cases, these breakers will be quite different from one another.
In this section of the study unit, we’ll discuss the various types of breakers
you’ll encounter and explain how they’re used in a modern residential
service panel.
You’ve already learned that circuit breakers are installed in a panel

enclosure. However, you should be aware that there are several
types of breakers, each with its own application. The most commonly
encountered standard breaker (if there is such a thing) is the full-size
breaker. It’s single-poled, designed to protect a single branch circuit,
and is usually rated at either 15 or 20 amps. Electricians refer to this type
of breaker by the number of poles it contains, as well as its amperage
rating. In this case, you would refer to the breaker as a single-pole 15-amp
(or 20-amp) breaker.
Dual or piggyback breakers can usually be inserted only into panels that
provide slots for their installation. They’re designed to protect two indi-
vidually separate branch circuits. The dual breaker is normally the same
width as a standard breaker but contains two half-thickness breakers,
each with its own handle (Figure 13). A half breaker is simply one-half of a
dual breaker and can only be connected to one branch circuit. It’s some-
times referred to in the trade as a “thin” breaker. As more dual and half
breakers are used, the number of branch circuits connected in a panel
increases, as does the ambient temperature in the panel enclosure.
Therefore, the allowable number of dual and half breakers is limited. Half
and dual breakers can only be installed in slots indicated by the panel
box manufacturer. These panels incorporate a special groove designed
to accept a tab that’s formed into the bottom of the breaker. Only panels
that are equipped with the groove can accept these special breakers.
FIGURE 13—Dual and half
breakers are designed to
fit only grooved slots in a
panel enclosure.
Double-pole breakers connect to both legs of the hot bus. These breakers
normally protect and control branch circuits that supply 240 volts.
Double-pole breakers protecting residential branch circuits usually range
from 15 to 70 amps, with 30-amp breakers protecting most clothes dryer
and water heater circuits. The 40- or 50-amp breakers are normally used
to protect the electric kitchen range and/or oven circuits.
Balancing Circuit Loads

As you’ve already learned, a standard 120/240 service includes two hot
wires and a neutral. Each conductor is connected to a specific “bus,”
which distributes the function of the conductor. The hot buses distribute
the hot lines to the breakers, which in turn distribute the hot lines to the
loads. The neutral bus distributes the grounded neutral to the branch-
circuit neutral conductors, and the grounding bus distributes the equipment
ground to the grounding conductors. The two hot conductors are 180
degrees out of phase with each other. This means that when the alternating
current in one hot bus reaches its maximum positive peak, the current in
the other bus reaches its maximum negative peak. Normally, the panel-
board is designed so that half of the circuit breaker positions are arranged
to draw current from one of the hot buses while the other half draws from
the other bus. The panel manufacturers accomplish this by “staggering”
the connecting points from top to bottom in the panel. In other words,
one breaker will connect to “a” phase while the next breaker will connect
to “b” phase. This staggering goes from top to bottom in the panel. This
isn’t information that you’ll need in your daily functions as an electrician,
but it does help you to better understand why certain components are
designed the way they are.
A balanced circuit load occurs when the current through each hot bus
is equal. When this happens, the positive peak current cancels out the
negative peak current and no current flows through the neutral conductor.
Of course, it’s not likely that the two hot conductor currents will be equal.
Hence, when the current levels aren’t equal, the neutral conductor
carries the difference in currents back to the panel. As an example, if branch
circuits attached to one bus draw 65 amps collectively, while those attached
to the other bus draw 75 amps collectively, the neutral conductor will
carry 10 amps (the difference between 65 and 75 amps) back to the
neutral bus in the panel.
To better balance a circuit, distribute the loads equally between the two
hot buses as much as possible. One method you may use is splitting the
two small-appliance circuits to the kitchen between the two hot buses.
Installing a Grounding Electrode

As you know, every electrical service panel must include a grounding
conductor. If possible, this conductor should be attached to a grounding
electrode. In some localities, it’s allowable to ground the electrical system
to the water main, but this type of grounding must be supplemented by
an additional grounding electrode as specified in the NEC Article 250-50
and Article 250-52. Grounding electrodes must be at least 8 feet long and
driven into the ground. They should maintain a continuous low-resistance

conductive contact with the soil. Rods made of ferrous (steel or iron)
material must be at least 5 8 inch in diameter. Nonferrous rods (copper
clad) must be at least 1 2 inch in diameter. The top of the rod to which
you’ll attach the grounding conductor should be flush with or just below
the surface. If the presence of rock makes it impossible to fully drive the
rod into the earth, it may be buried horizontally in a trench that’s at least
2 1 2-feet deep, or driven at an angle not exceeding 45 degrees. You may
never shorten the 8-foot length of a grounding rod by cutting portions
from the rod. It must always remain 8 feet in length. Depending on
lightning hazards, you may need to install more than one grounding rod.
The NEC and local codes specify many of the procedures associated
with the installation of the grounding system. The NEC also specifies
that the conductor used to connect the grounding rod to the service
panel be free from interruptions or splices.
Grounding and Bonding of Service and Equipment

The word bonding is defined as the coming together of all metal parts in
the system so that no potential difference exists between them.
Remember that grounding is the interconnection of all metal components
with the grounding conductor to provide a low-impedance path for
fault-current flow should one of the energized conductors come into
contact with the metal components.
When installing any electrical service, always bond the neutral bar to the
panel enclosure. If any fault current develops on the system it will flow
across the equipment, through the bonding screw and onto the service
grounded conductor. This will cause the overcurrent device to open,
thus eliminating dangerous voltages on the equipment.
The neutral bar may be bonded in any one of the following ways.
· Using a bonding screw. In 100 and 200 ampere panels the bonding
screw is normally a 10/32-type screw that’s generally green in
color.
· Attaching a bonding strap. The thickness of the strap may vary
depending on the rated loads of the panel.
· Installing a bonding conductor (or jumper). Consult Table 1 for the
size of bonding conductor needed to bond a neutral bar. Note that
this table, which is taken from the NEC, is for grounding electrode
conductors. That’s because Article 250-102(c) states that bonding
jumpers can’t be smaller than the grounding electrode conductor.
Table 1
GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR FOR ALTERNATING-CURRENT SYSTEMS
Size of Largest Service-Entrance Conductor or

Size of Grounding Electrode Conductor
Equivalent Area for Parallel Conductors1
Aluminum or Aluminum or
Copper Copper
Copper-Clad Aluminum Copper-Clad Aluminum2
2 or smaller 1/0 or smaller 8 6
1 or 1/0 2/0 or 3/0 6 4
2/0 or 3/0 4/0 or 250 kcmil 4 2
Over 3/0 through Over 250 kcmil 2 1/0

350 kcmil through 500 kcmil
Over 350 kcmil Over 500 kcmil 1/0 3/0

through 600 kcmil through 900 kcmil
Over 600 kcmil Over 900 kcmil 2/0 4/0

through 1100 kcmil through 1750 kcmil
Over 1100 kcmil Over 1750 kcmil 3/0 250 kcmil
Notes:
(a) Where multiple sets of service-entrance conductors are used as permitted in Section 230-40, Exception
No. 2, the equivalent size of the largest service-entrance conductor shall be determined by the largest
sum of the areas of the corresponding conductors of each set.
(b) Where there are no service-entrance conductors, the grounding electrode conductor size shall be
determined by the equivalent size of the largest service-entrance conductor required for the load
to be served.
1This table also applies to the derived conductors of separately derived AC systems.
2See installation restrictions in Section 250-64(a) of the NEC
(Reprinted with permission from NFPA 70-1999, the National Electrical Code®, Copyright© 1998, National Fire Protection Association, on the
referenced subject which is represented only by the standard in its entirety. National Electrical Code® and NEC® are registered trademarks
of the National Fire Protection Association, Inc., Quincy, MA 02269)
All raceways for the service entrance shall be bonded together. Again,
Table 1 indicates the size of the bonding jumper needed. If the conductors
within the conduit or the conduits themselves are larger than 1100 kcmil
copper or 1750 kcmil aluminum, the bonding jumper shall have an area
not less than 12 1 2 percent of the area of the largest phase conductor. In
the case of parallel conductors, the largest area of a phase conductor is
considered to be the sum of the areas of the conductors paralleled in one
phase.
Let’s work through several example problems using Table 1.
Problem 1:
What size of copper-bonding jumper is required to bond a metal conduit
with three 500-kcmil THWN Cu conductors and one neutral conductor?
Solution:
Figure 14 shows that we have only one 500 kcmil per phase. Refer to
Table 1 under service-entrance conductors in the Copper column. A
500 kcmil conductor falls under the “Over 350 kcmil through 600 kcmil”
category. Therefore, 1/0-size copper wire is needed to bond the metal
conduit properly.
the bonding of a raceway
with three conductors.
Problem 2:
What size copper-bonding jumper is required to bond three raceways
using one bonding jumper, where each metal conduit contains three
600-kcmil Cu conductors that are parallel per phase? Figure 15 illustrates
this example.
FIGURE 15—This shows the
bonding of three raceways
in a series with three
parallel-phase conductors.
Solution:
The first step is to add up the conductors to find the total kcmil per
phase (600 ´ 3 = 1800 kcmil). Now that we know we have an area of
1800 kcmil per phase, we can check Table 1 for the size of the bonding
jumper needed.
Since Table 1 only goes up to 1100 kcmil Cu, we’re now required to take
12 1 2 % of the largest phase conductor. (The largest phase conductor is
considered to be the total area of the parallel conductors, or 1800 kcmil.)
1800 kcmil ´ 0.125 = 225 kcmil

Rounding off, we find that 250 kcmil bonding jumper is required to

bond all three metal conduits properly.
Let’s take this example one step further. Everything remains the same,
except, instead of having all three conduits bonded in a series, each
conduit will be bonded individually. See Figure 16.
FIGURE 16—One bonding
jumper to each conduit
requires only a 1/0 Cu
when bonding individually.
Using Table 1, locate the largest phase conductor in the conduit (as
explained in note [a]). This would be 600 kcmil Cu. Then refer to the
“Over 350 kcmil through 600 kcmil” column in Table 1. A 1/0-size
conductor is the minimum size that would be required to bond each
conduit properly.
This example shows that if the situations permits, it’s more cost-effective
(material and labor) to bond each conduit individually in a paralleled
system.
The interior metal piping through a building must also be bonded. Table 1
also sizes the bonding conductor for the metal piping. Refer to Figure 17
that shows the proper bonding of the interior metal water pipe. Keep in
mind that it serves no purpose to bond non-metallic water piping such
as PVC.
FIGURE 17—This shows bonding of interior metal pipes.
Should you decide or be required to run the bonding conductor in a

metal conduit, you then must also bond the conduit itself to the
waterline. See Figures 18 and 19.
FIGURE 18—This shows bonding of a raceway to a water pipe.


close-up view of the
bonding jumper area in
Figure 18.
The following items should be bonded together to make up the grounding

electrode system if they’re available on the premises: (a) metal under-
ground water pipe (10 feet or more of metal pipe in direct contact with
the earth); (b) metal frame of building (where building is intentionally
grounded to the earth); (c) concrete-encased electrode; and (d) grounding
ring (constructed by burying at least 20 feet of #2 or larger bare copper
wire in a trench 2 1 2 feet deep or more, encircling the building or structure
requiring the grounding system). The size of the grounding conductor is
found in Table 1 unless otherwise noted on the plans or drawings.
Should none of these items be available, you would then be required

to install grounding rods, pipe electrodes (minimum 3 4-inch trade size
iron or steel, metal coated to prevent corrosion), or electrode plates
(minimum 1 4-inch thick iron or steel plate or minimum .06 -inch thick
nonferrous plate, with at least 2 square feet of plate surface exposed to
the soil).
If we installed a 400-A three-phase service and had access to all of these
items, the installation would look much like the installation in Figure 20.
Bonding and grounding protects against the unpredictable ground
faults and shorts which may develop in any electrical system. Proper
bonding and grounding of a system won’t only lessen personnel exposure
to high voltages and potential damage to conductors and equipment,
but should also open affected overcurrent devices.
FIGURE 20—This shows a grounding electrode system.

Subpanels
There may be instances in a residential wiring plan that call for a subpanel
installation. One may be that when a large number of major appliances
and similar heavy loads are located a long distance from the service
panel, a subpanel may be needed to supply these appliances or loads.
Subpanels are also used when an addition is added onto a house.
An addition usually requires several branch circuits and is generally
located quite far from the original service panel. Subpanels are sometimes
installed when adding equipment such as room air conditioners,
dishwashers, etc. because the existing service panel has no more room
for additional breakers.
In new installations, installing subpanels may reduce the amount of
conductor-routing work by permitting the electrician to install only one
large feeder cable from the service panel to the subpanel. The subpanel
can then be located much closer to the locations of the loads. A subpanel
resembles and functions much like a regular panel, with some exceptions.
First, because the subpanel is fed through the main panel, there’s no
need for a main breaker in the subpanel (although you may still install
one if you wish). Secondly, the neutral and ground buses in the subpanel
must be completely isolated from one another. This means that they
can’t be directly connected to one another and that the neutral bus must
be isolated from contacting the subpanel enclosure by mounting it in
the enclosure using some type of insulating material. This is usually
accomplished with plastic separators between the neutral bus and the
enclosure. As just learned, components such as panels, subpanels, and
other enclosures must be connected to equipment ground. Because of
the required separation between the neutral and ground buses, the
equipment-bonding device may only be connected to the ground bus
and not the neutral bus.
Power is supplied to the subpanel directly from the service panel,
normally using a four-conductor service-entrance cable.
Now take a few moments to review what you’ve learned by completing
Self-Check 2.
✔ Self-Check 2
1. True or False? If possible, it’s best to ground each conductor individually.
2. Bonding screws are used to bond the _______ bar.
3. The main breaker can be used as the service _______.
4. The drip loop of the SEC attached to the building must be at least _______ feet above the
ground where only pedestrian traffic is a concern.
5. True or False? Residential wiring must always have a subpanel installed.
6. The neutral bus and subpanel are normally isolated by _______.
7. Heating and burning of conductors caused by short circuits can be reduced by bonding and
_______.
LOCATING RESIDENTIAL DEVICES
Wiring Layout for a Small House

Quite often, the electrician won’t receive complete and adequate plans
for small residential dwellings. An experienced electrician can use a
building plan as a basis for designing an electrical layout that complies
with the National Electrical Code and any local codes.
Figure 21 shows a wiring layout plan for a three-bedroom ranch-type
house with a basement. Assume that the laundry facilities and the service
panel are in the basement. The basement plan with its wiring layout
isn’t shown in this drawing. The outlets are indicated using the standard
electrical symbols you should be familiar with by now. All duplex receptacles
are grounding-type receptacles.
FIGURE 21—This shows a wiring layout for a small house.

The arrowheads on the circuits indicate the home runs, which are the cable
runs to the distribution panel where the branch-circuit protective devices
are located. The number of 2- and 3-wire circuits can be found by counting
the arrowheads. The home runs for each circuit normally begin at the
outlet nearest the panel. The ideal location for the panel is where the load
is concentrated, which is in the kitchen and laundry. The location of the
home runs in Figure 21 isn’t typical of a house because the home runs
shown here are scattered without regard to the possible panel location.
Branch circuits normally end at lighting outlets or receptacle outlets. The
light gray lines connecting the outlets in Figure 21 represent runs of
cable. Broken lines are also used sometimes to indicate exposed wiring
in the basement, but the basement isn’t shown in this wiring layout.
In the kitchen, receptacles have been provided for the refrigerator, clock,
iron, can opener, toaster, and other small appliances. A special outlet S
is provided for an ironing station. It’s equipped with a switch and pilot
lamp so that the homeowner will know whether the iron is on or not. A
special receptacle (R) is provided for the range. Several special outlets
are represented in the wiring plan, including one for a clock (C),
dishwasher (DW), garbage disposal (GD), and range hood (RH). Each
special outlet is identified on the drawing to indicate its use. Many range
hoods contain both a fan and a lamp so separate fan and lamp holder
outlets aren’t shown. Note that the kitchen and dining room share two
small-appliance circuits and these circuits don’t enter other rooms. The
NEC doesn’t permit these circuits to supply power to any other rooms
except breakfast nooks.
A sufficient number of receptacles are installed in the other rooms. They’re
spaced approximately equal distances apart. The distance between
adjacent receptacles in the same room (excluding kitchen and bathroom)
should always be less than 12 feet according to the NEC. Each bedroom is
equipped with a combination switch and a receptacle outlet as well as a
ceiling light for general lighting. Each closet has an enclosed lamp
fixture controlled by a pull-chain switch. The receptacle at the entrance
door is conveniently located for connecting a vacuum cleaner or other
small appliances.
The bathroom has a ceiling light for general lighting and special lights at
the mirror. Electric heating is often used in the bathroom to supplement
the regular heating. All receptacles in a bathroom shall be ground-fault
protected. The bathroom circuit may not supply any other room other
than another bathroom.
A split-wired duplex receptacle is shown near the front door in the corner
of the living room. The top half of the receptacle is wired so that it’s con-
trolled by two three-way switches. The bottom half is always energized.
This permits a lamp to be plugged into the top half and controlled
from the front door and the hall, while an appliance such as a clock may
be plugged into the bottom half. The terrace is equipped with two
ground-fault-type weatherproof (WP) receptacles for portable lamps,
decorative lighting, or tools. Because two receptacles are installed, there’s no
need to pass cords over the doorway, thus reducing the chance of
damaging cord insulation. Switches are often used to control weatherproof

outlets, which allow the outlets to be used more easily.
Three-way switches are used in the hall, kitchen, and living room to
reduce the need of retracing steps when a person moves from one part
of the house to the other. Another convenient feature is the push-button
door-chime switches located at both exterior doors to control the chime
located in the hall.
Location of Receptacles
There isn’t a required height for mounting receptacles but a convenient
recommended height for duplex receptacles is 16 inches (in.) above the
floor. At that height, the outlet is more accessible and more adaptable
to appliance cords. In the kitchen, bathroom, laundry, and garage, a
recommended height for receptacles is 48 inches above the floor. In
the kitchen, that height equates to approximately 12 inches above the
countertops.
Present practice is to provide enough receptacles so that no point in a
room (except kitchen and bathroom) is more than 6 feet from a receptacle.
Thus, the distance between receptacles is always less than 12 feet. Any
wall space greater than two feet in length shall require a receptacle.
Sliding panels, such as sliding glass doors, aren’t counted as wall space
according to the NEC Article 210-52(a)(2)(d). The receptacles should be
approximately equally spaced. However, the spacing may be changed
somewhat to address anticipated placement of furniture. In the kitchen,
receptacles installed on a countertop shall be installed so that no point
along the counter (measured horizontally) is more than 24 inches from
a receptacle outlet. A receptacle outlet should also be installed to serve
each counter space 12 inches wide or wider. The receptacle for the refrig-
erator should be hidden from view when the refrigerator is in place.
Weatherproof GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) receptacles should
be installed at convenient outdoor locations, front and back, for supplying
decorative lighting and power tools. These receptacles should be kept at
least 18 inches above ground level for protection of the receptacle and
ease of accessibility. Special receptacles with key locks are available for
use where vandalism is a problem. For extra convenience, wall-mounted
switches may control these outdoor receptacles.
Location of Switches
A convenient height for light switches is approximately 48 inches above
the finished floor, on the lock side of a door, and within 6 inches of the
door frame. Switch locations should be carefully planned to accommodate
the residents by following the normal course of passage from room to
room that a resident may normally take. For example, upon entering the
house a person should be able to turn on a light without taking many
steps. Upon leaving that room, they should also be able to enter the hall
or another room, turn on lights conveniently and turn off the preceding
light. This accommodation can be accomplished by installing three- and
four-way switches. A combination switch and pilot may be installed in
a situation where a light, such as a basement light, can’t be seen from the
switch location. Of course, the combination switch and pilot light
should be installed in a convenient place where it can be seen. When
the branch-circuit wires are run from the panel to the switch and then to
the light, it’s possible to install a combination switch and receptacle at the
switch location because both the hot wire and the neutral wire are present.
With a combination switch and receptacle the receptacle is always
energized regardless of the position of the light switch.
Location of Lighting Outlets

A minimum of at least one lighting outlet controlled by a light switch
should be installed in every habitable room and bathroom. Wall-mounted
lighting fixtures are useful at the mirror in the bathroom and should be
placed about 4 1 2 to 5 1 2 feet above the floor, depending upon their design
and intended use. A fluorescent light on each side of the mirror may
provide substantial light. Incandescent lamps or a single fluorescent
lamp may also be used but don’t always provide sufficient light. Some
bathroom cabinets are constructed with lamp fixtures and receptacles
included. A wall-mounted light switch should be installed to control the
light on the cabinet regardless of the switching mechanism provided on
the cabinet assembly. Likewise, the receptacle on the cabinet cannot be
counted as the necessary receptacle requirement for the bathroom. When
installing lighting in an enclosed shower stall, an approved “Listed
Fixture,” or “Suitable for Wet Locations” type fixture should be installed.
A wall switch outside the shower stall should control the light in the
shower. Don’t install the switch in the shower stall.
Hallways, stairways, and attached garages should have at least one

lighting outlet controlled by a light switch. Special lighting outlets at
bookcases, fireplaces, coves, draperies, cornices, and kitchen work
spaces call for special location planning. Consideration should also be
given to outdoor lighting in addition to lighting that may be plugged
into the weatherproof receptacles. These lighting additions may include
weatherproof spotlights, floodlights, sidewalk lighting, or post lights
with automatic switching. When controlling lights from the exterior of
the building, always use weatherproof switches.
Listing of Residential Outlets

Table 2 lists suggested outlets for residences. Specialty outlets, which
may be needed for home businesses and hobbies, aren’t listed and
require special consideration.
44
Table 2
SUMMARY OF SUGGESTED OUTLETS FOR RESIDENCES
Type of Type of Type of
Space Lighting Outlets Convenience Outlets Special-Purpose Outlets
Circuits Circuits Circuits
Living room, One ceiling outlet, wall-switch Gen. No point at wall line more than Gen. Outlet for room air conditioner if no Ind.
library, den, controlled. Two outlets where six ft from an outlet. Wall spaces central air conditioner is planned.
sunroom, room length exceeds twice two ft or more have outlet,
family room the width. Wall, cove, or excluding sliding panels. Outlet
valance outlets may be in mantel shelf. One or more
substituted. switch-controlled outlet(s).
Dining room, One ceiling outlet, wall-switch Gen. No point at wall line more than App.
dinette, controlled. six ft from an outlet. Wall spaces
breakfast room two ft or more to have outlet,
excluding sliding panels.
Kitchen, One ceiling outlet, wall-switch Gen. Two circuit minimum. No point App. One outlet for range. Ind. (3-wire)
kitchenette controlled. measured horizontally on One outlet for clock. General
countertop shall be more than One outlet for vent hood. General
24 in. from GFCI outlet. One One outlet for dishwasher. Ind.
GFCI outlet at refrigerator One outlet for garbage
location. One GFCI outlet for disposal unit. Ind.
each counter one ft or wider.
Laundry One ceiling outlet at ironing One outlet for washer. Ind.
center. Wall-switch control for One outlet for hand iron or ironer. Lau.
one ceiling outlet. One outlet for clothes dryer. Ind.
Bedrooms One overhead Gen. No point at wall live more than Gen. One outlet for room air conditioner Ind.
outlet, wall-switch controlled. six ft from outlet. Wall spaces or portable space heater.
two ft or more to have outlet
excluding sliding panels.
Reception One outlet, switch-controlled. Gen. One outlet for each 10 ft or more Gen.
room in length.

Halls One outlet for each 10 ft, Gen. Gen.
wall-switch controlled.
Stairways One outlet on each floor to Gen. One general-use outlet, Gen.
illuminate head and foot of especially at intermediate
stairway. Each outlet to have landings of large area.
multiple-switch control at
head and foot of stairway
where difference in floor level
is six or more steps.
Summary of Suggested Outlets for Residences—Continued
Lighting Type of Type of Special-Purpose Type of

Space Convenience Outlets
Outlets Circuits Circuits Outlets Circuits
Closets, One outlet per closet. One or Gen. One weatherproof GFCI outlet Gen.
exterior two outlets, wall-switch at front and rear entrance 18 in.
entrances controlled. above grade.
Covered One outlet for 75 sq. ft of Gen. One weatherproof GFCI outlet Gen.
porches porch floor, wall switch- for each 15 ft of house bordering
controlled. porch and located 18 in. above
grade.
Terraces, patios One outlet on post or Gen. One outlet for each 15 ft of Gen.
building, wall-switch house wall bordering porch
controlled inside door. located 18 in. above grade.
Basement utility One outlet for each enclosed Gen. One outlet at workbench Gen. One outlet for electrical equipment Ind.
space space, one for workbench, location, one at furnace used in connection with furnace
and one for furnace location. location. operation or central electric space
Sufficient additional outlets to heater.
provide one for each 150 sq.
ft of open space.
Accessible One outlet from foot of stairs. Gen. One outlet for general use. Gen. 1 outlet for summer cooling fan, Ind.
attics One outlet for each enclosed controlled from several switch
space. locations.
Garage One interior wall-switch outlet Gen. One GFCI outlet for one- or Gen. One outlet each for food freezer, Ind.
for one- or two-car garage. two-car garages. GFCI on workbench, etc., if
One outlet for exterior planned.
lighting, multiple-switch
controlled if garage is
detached from house.
1. Gen: outlets supplied by general-purpose circuits

2. App: outlets supplied by small-appliance circuits
3. Ind: outlets supplied by individual equipment circuits
4. Lau: outlets supplied by laundry circuit
Note: A convenience outlet shall be at least of the duplex type (two or more plug-in positions) except as otherwise specified.
All spaces for which wall-switch controls are required, and which have no more than one principal entrance, shall be equipped with multiple-switch control at the lock side of doors or the
traffic side of arches. If this requirement would result in the placing of switches controlling the same light within 10 ft of each other, one of the switch locations may be eliminated.
45
Not all the outlets listed are likely to be used in any one installation.
However, Table 2 is a good checklist to consult when deciding whether
the planned electrical wiring has enough outlets for safety and
convenience.
Area Requirements
Figure 22 shows a wiring plan for a three-level house. Starting with the
living room, we’ll examine some of the electrical circuits and outlets that
should be considered when wiring a new home or adding circuits to an
older home.
Living Room Requirements

Wiring requirements for the living room shown in Figure 23 also apply
to sun rooms, dens, family rooms, and libraries. Decorative lighting is a
major design feature and often takes precedence over other needed
features such as adequate lighting for reading.
In new homes, it’s not an uncommon practice to omit a ceiling light
outlet in the center of the living room. Lighting is typically installed on
walls, in nooks, or is supplied by portable lamps plugged into general-
purpose receptacles. In Figure 23, the two three-way switches in the
living room are used to control a fluorescent lamp that’s installed behind
a valance.
FIGURE 22—The GFCI

receptacles are the only
protective devices shown in
this layout. They must be
used in the bathroom,
kitchen countertops,
garages, and on the outside
of the house. It’s important to
note that lighting for closets
is required by the NEC to
have the bulb totally
enclosed.
FIGURE 23—Unless there

is a lot of decorative
lighting, the living room
wiring is very simple.
DINING
ROOM
KITCHEN
S3 S3 TO SECOND
LEVEL
FLUORESCENT LIGHT S3
S FRONT
DOOR
LIVING ROOM WIRING PLAN
Because there’s no central ceiling light outlet in the living room, a wall
switch at the living room entrance controls at least one of the convenience
outlets placed around the room. This arrangement permits a portable
light like an end table lamp to be switched on from the doorway. In some
designs, the top receptacles of a duplex receptacle are switch controlled
while the bottom receptacles stay hot at all times.
The switch-controlled outlets are called split receptacles. In such outlets,
the common hot metal tab is broken off, making the two receptacles
separate. The common neutral metal tab remains intact, supplying a
common neutral to both parts of the receptacle.
The location standards for these receptacles are the same as those
mentioned earlier in this lesson. The outlets should be installed 12 inches
above the floor line and installed approximately 12 feet apart around the
wall space so that no point along the floor line is more than 6 feet from
an outlet.
If there’s a break in the wall, such as a sliding glass door or an archway,

locate the outlets near the break.
Some convenience outlets may be flush-mounted on mantel shelves, in
bookcases, and in areas for decorative lighting effects.
A special-purpose outlet must be installed if a room-type air conditioning
unit is to be installed.
Dining Room Requirements

A dining room normally has a ceiling outlet directly over the proposed
location of the table, as shown in Figure 24. A wall switch controls the
ceiling outlet and more often than not, a dimmer switch is used. Break-
fast nooks also have ceiling outlets but these outlets aren’t normally
dimmer-controlled.
FIGURE 24—Dining Room
Layout
Convenience outlets are installed around the dining room walls and
may be supplied by the 20-ampere small-appliance circuits supplying
the kitchen countertop receptacles. However, it’s highly recommended
that separate 20-ampere branch circuits supply these receptacles due to a
high load potential caused by small appliances such as hot plates, toaster
ovens and the like. When a dining table or breakfast table is placed next
to a wall, an outlet located approximately 4 inches above the proposed
table height is often useful for appliances such as toasters.
Some dining rooms may be equipped with serving counters or serving
bars. An extra outlet just above the end of the counter is handy for
appliances such as blenders and ice crushers. This outlet is a NEC
requirement if the bar is a minimum of two feet by one foot in measure-
ment. If the bar is considered a “wet bar” with a water-supplied sink, the
receptacle must be GFCI protected.
Three other noteworthy dining-room circuit features should be pointed

out. First, locating the light switch on the other side of the kitchen door
might be convenient. This would make the switch handier for anyone
entering or leaving the back door. Second, notice that a receptacle outlet
is located on the wall between the kitchen doorway and the back door.
Thirdly, in order to comply with the NEC requirement that no point
along a room’s wall be more than six feet from a convenience outlet,
you will need to install a receptacle outlet on the back wall.
Powder Room and Bathroom Requirements

The powder room with only a sink, mirror, and dressing table is becoming
more common, since it relieves the main bathroom traffic. The NEC
defines a bathroom as a room that’s equipped with a basin and at least
one of the following: a tub, commode, or shower. If a room doesn’t meet
the criteria found in this definition, it’s not considered a bathroom and
doesn’t have to comply with the electrical requirements for a bath-
room. It would then normally require only one receptacle outlet and
good lighting for the mirror.
Rooms like the residential floor plan in Figure 22 and the one shown in
Figure 25 are defined as bathrooms and must meet or exceed the electri-
cal requirements for bathrooms.
S S
SHOWER GFCI
STALL
SINK
TOILET
BATHROOM WIRING PLAN
FIGURE 25—Some bathrooms may also have special-purpose outlets for space heaters and exhaust fans. The
switch-controlled fan can be part of a light fixture or an individual fixture. Another option is a light fixture in the
shower stall.
Lighting at the mirror should be carefully planned. Illumination of the

entire face and neck without shadows is ideal. Single concentrated light
sources usually don’t accommodate this. Light fixtures ranging from twin
fixtures to various kinds of makeup fixtures are much more efficient.
Ceiling lamps installed to provide illumination to the front edge of the

washbasin provide improved personal lighting at the mirror. When
more than one mirror is located in the room, extra lighting is required
for each mirror.
Shower stalls may have a vapor-proof light fixture installed, with the
wall switch installed outside of the stall. Steam bath and whirlpool
appliances are supplied separately or may be plugged into convenience
outlets if the load isn’t extremely high. Infrared and ultraviolet light
fixtures may be installed as ceiling fixtures. Receptacles should be
provided in proximity to each mirror to accommodate electric razors,
hair dryers, and other small, personal appliances. All receptacles in a
bathroom must be of the GFCI type.
Special-purpose outlets may also be installed in bathrooms to supply
space heaters and ventilating fans. Usually the vent fan is switch controlled.
It may be directly attached to a ceiling light or installed as an individual
fixture. Switch-controlled nightlights are also recommended as a
convenience feature in bathrooms.
Kitchen Requirements
The electric requirements of a kitchen are more numerous than other
rooms in a house and call for additional planning (Figure 26).
Wall switches usually control most general lighting in a kitchen. The
kitchen should be illuminated so that light is directed on the countertops,
sink, range, dishwasher, work area, and kitchen table. The interiors of
cabinets and other storage areas may have their own fixtures installed to
satisfy special designs.
As a rule, kitchen countertop receptacles should be supplied by at
least two small-appliance circuits. Receptacles on countertops shall be
installed so that no point along the counter space is more than 24 inches
(horizontally) from a receptacle outlet. Countertop receptacles should be
installed approximately 12 inches from the countertop to the bottom of
the receptacle. If a kitchen desk or cookbook shelf is planned, one outlet
should be installed to supply that specialized area. Tables placed against
walls should also have one outlet just above table level to accommodate
food preparation and warming appliances.
The refrigerator should have its own circuit and outlet. All other
convenience outlets may be split-receptacle types connected to two or
more 20-A small-appliance circuits.
Special-purpose circuits and outlets are used for the electric range,
ventilating fan, dishwasher, garbage disposal, food freezer, and other
major appliances located in the kitchen.
FIGURE 26—Note that the

compact kitchen has almost
every major appliance
installed.
Bedroom Requirements
The standard bedroom generally requires ceiling or cornice-type general
illumination. The sample-bedroom layouts shown in Figures 22 and 27
indicate ceiling light outlets. Light fixtures over full-length mirrors and
vanities are also convenient.
FIGURE 27—Install a sufficient number of receptacles in the bedroom. Usually, the night tables next to a bed will
hold such items as lamps, clocks, and radios.
A bedroom normally requires numerous convenience outlets to power

electric appliances since furniture arrangements vary extensively. These
outlets may accommodate electric blankets, televisions, radios, clocks,
bed lamps, electric coffeemakers, and even small refrigerators. The 6-foot
rule must be followed in locating these receptacles. In many modern,
custom-designed homes, remote-control switching consoles may be
installed to control lighting located both inside and outside the dwelling.
The master console unit is usually installed in the master bedroom. Special
outlets should be provided to supply power to these consoles.
Basement Requirements
The lighting for an unfinished basement, like the one shown in Figure 28,
is more functional than decorative. Typical basement wiring can be almost
commercial appearing in nature. General illumination requirements are
usually one luminescent light for each 150 square feet of open space.
Although there should be no dark areas in a basement, it’s not a require-
ment to light individual areas in an unfinished basement.
FIGURE 28—Most modern,
finished basements require
numerous circuits, since
they contain work areas,
laundry areas, and family
rooms.
A wall switch at the head of the stairs should control the light at the foot
of the stairs. If the number of stairs is six or more, two three-way switches
should be installed, with one at the top of the stairs and the other at the
bottom of the stairs. The switch at the top of the stairs should be equipped
with a pilot light and be located so that no reaching is required to operate
the switch. Fixtures with pull chains may be used in the remaining
sections of the basement. If the basement is equipped with a workbench,
one 20-ampere circuit and receptacle should be installed to supply
power to the workbench.
Outlets are also required if laundry appliances are located in the basement,
but these circuits should follow the same rules that apply to those
previously covered for laundry areas. Any other areas set aside in the
basement for special usage should be supplied with the necessary circuits
and receptacles required. Appliances such as emergency water (sump)
pumps, dehumidifiers, and space heaters should have special-purpose
circuits installed that are rated according to the load demand of the
appliance or equipment.
All general-purpose receptacles in an unfinished basement must be
GFCI. Receptacles that are of the single type and dedicated to supply
power to equipment such as freezers and pumps aren’t required to be
of the GFCI type. Receptacles located in a finished basement aren’t
required to be of the GFCI type.
Outside Area Requirements

When an outdoor roofed area such as a porch has more than 75 sq ft of
floor area, a wall switch should control a lighting outlet. Large areas
may need two or more lighting outletsas shown in Figure 29.
Multiple-switch control is especially useful at entrances. This is true when
the entrance is a passageway such as between the garage and house.
When the outdoor area isn’t roofed, such as a terrace or a patio, it should
be generally illuminated using wall or post fixtures. A wall switch inside
the house should control that lighting. In the garage or carport, it’s
common to install one ceiling outlet with three-way switching control in
the home and at garage doors.
On the exterior grounds, floodlights are especially useful to illuminate
the area. Colored lights and special effects can add decoration in addition
to providing added illumination.
Weatherproof convenience outlets should be installed in convenient

outside locations both front and rear, on walls that border porches,
terraces, and patios. The outlets should also have ground-fault protection.
FIGURE 29—Lighting outdoor

areas requires special
considerations.
At least one general-purpose convenience outlet should be installed

in a one- or two-car garage or carport and it must be GFCI-protected.
When the garage is also used to hold a food freezer or is equipped with
an electric garage-door opener, special-purpose outlets must be installed
to address these additions. These special-purpose outlets aren’t required
to be GFCI, providing the receptacle is installed as a single-type recepta-
cle for special-purpose usage.
Fixtures in Closets
The NEC defines storage space as “a volume bounded by the sides and
back closet walls and planes extending from the closet door vertically to
the height of 6 feet, or the highest clothing-hanging rod and parallel to
the walls at a horizontal distance of 24 inches from the sides and back of
the closet walls respectively, and continuing vertically to the closet ceiling
parallel to the walls at a horizontal distance of 12 inches or the width of
the shelf, whichever is greater.”
In the past, people could install all types of surface-mounted and recessed
incandescent fixtures directly over the shelves in closets. When clothes,
boxes, etc., were stored on the shelves, some of this material would
come in contact with the fixture creating a fire hazard within the closet.
Because of those potential fire hazards, the NEC now only allows two
types of lighting fixtures in closets:
1. Surface-mount or recessed incandescent fixtures with the lamp
completely enclosed.
2. Surface-mount or recessed fluorescent fixtures with the lamp
exposed or enclosed.
A surface-mounted incandescent fixture mounted over a door on the
wall or ceiling must be a minimum of 12 inches from the shelf or, if
there’s no shelf, 24 inches from the wall (Figure 30).
A recessed incandescent fixture must be a minimum of 6 inches from

the edge of the shelf or 18 inches from the wall to the fixture trim
(Figure 31A).
Surface-mount or recessed fluorescent fixtures must be a minimum
of 6 inches from the edge of the shelf or 18 inches from the wall
(Figure 31B).
FIGURE 30—This shows the

clearance requirements
for surface-mounted
incandescent lightning
fixtures.

the clearance
requirements for
recessed incandescent
and any fluorescent
lighting fixtures.

Self-Check 3.
✔ Self-Check 3
1. The maximum distance from any point along the floor line to a receptacle in the living
room is ______ feet.
2. True or False? The dining room usually has an outlet for a ceiling-mounted light.
3. Which room in a new house other than the kitchen must have receptacles protected by a
GFCI device?
______________________________________________________________________________
4. In which room of a house would you probably find the master control unit for a remotely
controlled lighting system?
______________________________________________________________________________
5. When should a switch be equipped with a pilot light?
______________________________________________________________________________
GENERAL CIRCUIT WIRING CONSIDERATIONS

When installing general-purpose, small-appliance, and special-purpose
circuits, certain considerations must be kept in mind. This section of text
explains these considerations as they apply to each type of circuit. In
addition, special considerations that apply to larger appliance circuits
will be discussed in greater depth. You’ll learn how the NEC classifies
appliances by groups—fixed, portable, and stationary, that some
appliances require their own branch circuit, while others may require a
grounded neutral wire.
General-Purpose Circuits
General-purpose circuits are two-conductor circuits that provide 120 V to
the lighting outlets and general-purpose convenience outlets, not
including the kitchen countertops, laundry room, or bathroom. Two
rules of thumb apply for the number of circuits to be installed in a
residence.
· Install one 20-A circuit for no more than 750 square feetof floor
space.
· Install one 15-A circuit for no more than 500 square feetof floor
space.
In residential wiring applications, there aren’t a limited number of recep-
tacles that can be installed on a general-purpose circuit. Electricians
usually install six to ten outlets per circuit and divide the circuits as evenly
as possible between the general-purpose receptacles. One consideration
in deciding which receptacles should connect to which circuit might
be economics. A good rule of economics is to connect the outlets in a
configuration that uses the least amount of wire or cable. Another
alternative the electrician should consider in the configuration of the
circuitry of the outlets in any one room is connecting the outlets so that
they’re on more than just one circuit. Wiring in this manner permits
some of the receptacles in the room to remain energized, providing
lighting and power when the current serving the rest of the room fails.
This is done in case one of the circuits should fail or require turning off
for repair or other reasons. Outlets with split-wired receptacles may be
installed in the living room, kitchen, family room, dining areas, and
laundry room.
Small-Appliance Circuits
As you know, at least two small-appliance circuits are required in a
kitchen. These same two circuits can be extended into an adjoining
dining area. However, it’s recommended that you install additional
circuits for dining areas and other adjoining rooms. Only one appli-
ance circuit is required in a separate laundry area.
Special-Purpose Circuits
Certain types of appliances require their own branch circuit. This means
that each appliance has its own conductors, outlet, and circuit breaker or
fuse.
These circuits can have ampacities of 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, or even 70A.
These special-purpose or individual equipment circuits are considered to have
a relatively high load demand but their ampacities aren’t necessarily
extremely high. One of the reasons an individual circuit may be needed
is that the electrical load is heavy enough that no other load can share
the circuit without overloading it. For example, an electric range may be
rated at 20 kW (kilowatts). It would require a 240-volt, 50-A, three-wire
circuit. A household electric-clothes dryer may require a 240-volt, 30-A,
three-wire circuit. With an insulated neutral conductor should be insu-
lated. A standard residential washing machine normally requires a 120-
volt, 20-A, two-wire circuit. A combination washer-dryer usually re-
quires a 240-volt, 40-A, three-wire circuit. A water heater also requires a
special-purpose circuit, usually a 240-volt, 30 A, two-wire circuit.
Special-purpose circuits are also used for appliances that are either
automatically controlled or will be running for long periods without
supervision. For example, the circuit that supplies power to fuel-fired
heating equipment such as a furnace is normally controlled by a thermo-
stat. An individual circuit is required so that if a fault develops in the
equipment, the circuit’s protective device will open, removing power
from only the one outlet. This avoids the likelihood of other nonrelated
circuits being opened as a result of the equipment problem. Should a
group of outlets share the same circuit as other major appliances and
one of the connected loads causes the breaker to trip, power could be
interrupted to equipment such as food freezers, refrigerators and the
like, resulting in expensive food spoilage.
Dishwashers and garbage disposals are sometimes connected to the same
circuit since they’re seldom in operation at the same time. The preferred
way, however, is to have each one on its own circuit. Table 3 lists the
electrical and wiring requirements for several special-purpose circuits.
Always check the nameplate on the equipment to verify the equipment’s
load demand, as it may differ from those listed in Table 3.
Table 3
SPECIAL-PURPOSE BRANCH CIRCUITS

Appliance Circuit Voltage AWG
Range 50 A, three-wire 120/240 No. 6
Washer/dryer 40 A, three-wire 120/240 No. 8
Clothes dryer 30 A, three-wire 120/240 No. 10
Washer 20 A, two-wire 120 No. 12
Fuel-fired heater 15 A, two-wire 120 No. 14
Workbench 20 A, two-wire 120 No. 12
Central air conditioning 40 A, two-wire 240 No. 8
Water pump 20 A, two-wire 240 No. 12
Appliance Circuit Connections

Let’s look at how some special-purpose circuits are wired. Smaller
appliances can be connected to the standard receptacles, which are rated
at 15 or 20 A. A small appliance is one that can be easily moved from
one location to another by simply unplugging it, picking it up and
moving it. This type of appliance may include a blender, toaster, food
processor, etc. Heavier-load demanding appliances often need their own
circuit and require special connection configurations. Figure 32 shows
two types of special receptacles generally used for some of these
heavier-load demanding appliances such as clothes dryers and electric
ranges.
Clothes Dryers
The receptacle shown in Figure 32A is a 30-ampere-rated, 4-wire receptacle
generally used to connect clothes dryers. Prior to the 1996 revision of
the NEC, the 30-A receptacle was only required to have three slots for
connection. All new clothes dryers now come equipped with the standard
4-prong pigtail and will require a 4-slot receptacle.
Freestanding (Self-Contained) Electric Ranges

The receptacle shown in Figure 32B is a 50-ampere-rated, 4-wire receptacle
generally used to connect freestanding electric ranges. Previously it
too, like the 30-ampere receptacle, had only three slots for connection.
These changes were made in the NEC for the protection of people. By
adding and requiring the fourth slot, a separate equipment-grounding
conductor must be installed and connected from the grounding terminal
in the panel to the frame of the equipment. Prior to the NEC change,
it wasn’t uncommon to use the grounded conductor (neutral) as the
equipment-grounding conductor in these special circuits. Keep in mind
that these two receptacles aren’t restricted to use on only dryers and
FIGURE 32—30-ampere
and 50-ampere 4-wire
receptacles
30-AMPERE
4-WIRE RECEPTACLE
(A)
50-AMPERE
4-WIRE RECEPTACLE
(B)
ranges. Any appliance or equipment that has the voltage and amperage
requirements to match may be connected using these receptacles. You
may find welding machines and other equipment connected in this
manner. However, never use the 30-ampere receptacle in a 50-ampere
requirement. In addition, freestanding electric ranges may be connected
directly into the junction box provided on the range. The basic rule the
electrician generally follows is that if the equipment comes equipped
with a 50-ampere rated pigtail, use the 50-ampere receptacle. If the
range comes equipped with a junction box and no pigtail, either use the
50-ampere receptacle by adding a 50-ampere pigtail, or connect the range
directly into a wall-mounted junction box with proper connectors. Always
make sure that any conductor used in the connection of these appliances
is in accordance with Table 310-16 in the NEC and never use the pigtail
as the disconnecting means for the circuit.
Sectional Electric Ranges

In sectional ranges, the oven is a separate unit installed in the wall or
between kitchen cabinets. The cooktop is usually installed on the kitchen
counter at a convenient location.
There are two basic methods of wiring sectional ranges.
1. Supply each section with its own individual branch circuit.

2. Supply both sections from one 50-A circuit.
Sectional ranges may be connected by installing two separate branch
circuits, one for the cooktop, and one for the oven. Factors that may
dictate using this method are (1) customer preference, (2) electrical plans
indicating separate circuits, or (3) nameplate load ratings indicating a
separate branch circuit. Should this be the case, run individual branch
circuits to each piece of equipment following the steps outlined above
for free standing units. Make sure you mark the panel indicating which
circuit breaker or fuse protects the cooktop and which circuit breaker or
fuse protects the oven.
If none of the factors are present that require two individual branch
circuits for the sectional range, one branch circuit may be installed and
“tapped” in a junction box to provide power to each piece of sectional
range. Figure 33 shows such a configuration. Before installing any branch
conductors or devices, always check the nameplate load rating on the
specific equipment to make sure that all circuit components meet or
exceed the requirements of the NEC. When connecting a sectional range
using the single-branch circuit method, the electrician will normally run
a 50-ampere-rated conductor from a double-pole circuit breaker in the
panel, to a centrally located junction box, convenient to both the cooktop
and the oven. An example of this is shown in Figure 33. The electrician
will then tap or connect from this junction box with two separate load-rated
cables to both the cooktop and the oven. Always check the nameplate on
each piece of equipment. This determines what size conductor you should
install to each piece of equipment from the main branch-circuit junction
box. Normally the conductors to each separate cooking unit will be
smaller in size than the conductor used to feed the main circuit, since this
main circuit is based on the total of the loads of both pieces of equipment.
Connecting the equipment to the tapped circuits may be accomplished
by using the proper receptacle and pigtail or by direct connection into
the manufacturer-supplied junction box. Labeling the cables in the
junction box with what appliance they supply is also a good practice.
Water Heaters
In connecting residential water heaters, it’s common practice in the elec-
trical trade to use a two-wire, No. 12 cable, with a grounding conductor.
Be certain the nameplate load rating on the water heater doesn’t exceed
the ampacity of the No. 12 cable. However, when wiring in this man-
ner remember that the conductor colors in a No. 12 cable are usually
black and white, which requires the electrician to re-mark the white
conductor with black tape or paint it at any point where the white con-
ductor is accessible or visible. This is to prevent someone from mistaking
it for a grounded conductor. The grounding conductor, usually a bare
copper conductor, must be connected to the frame of the water heater.
The equipment manufacturer usually provides a green terminal screw
FIGURE 33—This shows the connections for a sectional range using one branch circuit.
located inside the junction box for this purpose. Figure 34 shows a dia-
gram for a standard two-element water heater. Notice that the water
heater doesn’t require a grounded conductor, or neutral, to operate prop-
erly. Also noted is that the disconnect isn’t required as long as the circuit
breaker that supplies the branch circuit to the water heater is “readily
accessible”. The water heater normally is connected by using a pigtail
from the water heater to either a wall-mounted junction box or a single
240-volt, 30-ampere rated receptacle. As is the case with any larger ap-
pliance, never use the plug/receptacle as a disconnecting means for the
appliance. The reason for not using the plug/receptacle for a disconnect-
ing means on any large-load appliance is that larger appliances (ranges,
dryers, dishwashers, and water heaters) have working amperage levels
that are relatively high compared to smaller appliances, such as blenders
and radios. Should someone use the plug as a disconnecting means and
unplug a larger appliance while the load is applied, electrical arcing and
serious injury due to burn or shock can result. The electrical current
has a natural tendency to try and “stay connected” and will arc to itself.
This effort causes the arcing to be exposed to the person holding the
pigtail and most likely damaging the plug and/or receptacle.
Electric Space Heater Connections

Fixed electric space heaters are supplied from individual branch circuits
rated at 15, 20, or 30 A. Because the heaters are considered to be continuous
loads, the circuit current can’t be over 80% of the wire ampacity. For
example, a 20-A branch circuit shouldn’t carry over 16 A (0.80 ´ 20 = 16).
When a long cable supplies the heater, a larger-size cable may be needed
to reduce the voltage drop and maintain the heater output.

the connections to a
standard two-element
water heater.
Figure 35A shows a baseboard-type heater controlled by a two-pole

line-voltage thermostat. A 240-V two-wire circuit with an ampacity
of 20 amps supplies the heater. The typical two-pole line-voltage thermo-
stat is rated at 5000 W, but the load should be limited to 80% of the
rating (0.80 ´ 5000 = 4000 W.) Use a No. 12 copper wire rated at 20 A
at a reduced ampacity of 16 A. The two-pole line-voltage thermostat
won’t normally control more than 3840 W (16 A ´ 240 V = 3840 W).
The same calculation made with a 230-V supply line would be
16 A ´ 230 V = 3680 W.
Thermostats are normally mounted on 2-inch ´ 3-inch device boxes.

In Figure 35A, a two-wire cable from the panelboard runs to the two-
pole line-voltage thermostat. Another two-wire cable runs from the
two-pole line-voltage thermostat to the overheat switch on the heater. The
overheat switch is a thermostat that runs the full length of the heater.
One ungrounded conductor is connected in series with the overheat
switch. The switch shuts the heater off if the temperature in the heater
gets too high. This could happen, for example, if the heater were
completely blocked off by draperies. The overheat switch is constructed

as part of the heater to make the installation more safe. From the over-
heat switch, a wire runs to one connection of the heating element. The
other wire from the two-pole line-voltage thermostat connects to the
other terminal wire of the heating element within the heater. When the
two-wire cable contains a grounding wire, the grounding wire is fas-
tened to the heater frame.
FIGURE 35—Space heaters are considered to be fixed appliances.
The low-voltage control system in Figure 35B uses a thermal relay to control
the power to the heater. The thermal relay includes a transformer T, which
steps 240 volts down to 24 volts. The low-voltage thermostat controls the
flow of current through a resistance heater R. When the thermostat closes,
it calls for heat and current flows through the resistance heater R. The
heater is wound on the bimetallic strip constructed of two different met-
als. The resistance heater heats a bimetallic strip and causes it to bend
and close the switch contacts of the thermal relay. When the room tem-
perature rises, the thermostat opens. This action stops the flow of current
through the resistance heater, which allows the bimetallic strip to cool.
After the bimetallic strip cools, the switch contacts of the thermal relay
open. Thus, the thermal relay silently controls the current flowing to the
heater.
As shown in the low-voltage control diagram in Figure 35B, the cable

from the panelboard runs to the thermal relay. This is the point where
the branch circuit connects to the transformer’s primary terminals. After
the splice, one wire runs directly to the heating element while the other
one is connected to a terminal on the switch of the thermal relay. From
the thermal relay terminal a wire is connected to the overheat switch of
the heater and then to the heating element.
In this system, the thermal relay directly controls the power to the heater.
The thermal relay could also be used to control a remotely located
switch such as a relay or contactor. This flexibility permits placing the
low-voltage thermostat and thermal relay in the most convenient places.
It also permits the installation of short cables to the heater.
Circuit Protection
The NEC devotes two parts of Article 422 to the electrical installation
and protection of appliances. Basically, the nameplate load rating
determines the branch circuit rating. If the nameplate rating isn’t available,
then Article 422 dictates how the branch circuit should be sized. For
small appliances whose rating is 13.3 amperes or less, the branch circuit
rating may not exceed 20 amperes. If an appliance is rated over 13.3 and
the branch-circuit maximum rating isn’t marked on the appliance, the
branch circuit rating may not exceed 150 percent of the estimated demand
load. For household-type appliances with surface heating elements
having a maximum demand of more than 60 amperes, the branch circuit
must be split into two circuits, with overcurrent protection rated less
than 50 amperes on either circuit. Electric heating appliances that use
resistance-type heating elements that have a demand of more than
48 amperes must have the heating elements subdivided so that no one
load is more than 48 amperes. The overcurrent protection device can’t
exceed 60 amperes on either circuit. An individual branch circuit must
supply central heating equipment. Branch circuits that supply water
heaters less than 120 gallons (household water heaters) must be rated at
no less than 125 percent of the nameplate load demand on the water
heater.
A means of disconnecting appliances from all ungrounded conductors

must be provided. For those permanently connected appliances
(appliances that are fastened in place in one location) whose load
doesn’t exceed 300 volt-amperes (watts) or 1 8 horsepower, the overcur-
rent protection device may be used as the disconnecting means. For
those permanently connected appliances, whose load does exceed 300
volt-amperes (watts) or 1 8 horsepower, the overcurrent protection device
may be used as the disconnecting means as long as the overcurrent
protection device is within sight of the appliance and can be locked in

the open position. In the case of cord-and-plug-connected appliances,
the cord-and-connector is an acceptable means of disconnect. However,
the branch-circuit protection device should always be placed in the open
position before disconnecting any appliance other than small portable
appliances using the cord-and-plug method. Severe arcing, shock, or
burns could result, in addition to component damage should a person
“unplug” a large appliance while the load is applied.
Circuit Grounding
Let’s review the two types of conductors used in a grounded circuit.
First is the grounded conductor. This current-carrying circuit conductor
is grounded at the service entrance and is called the neutral wire. Since
it’s grounded, there’s no voltage between the neutral wire and ground
unless the wire is disconnected from the ground connection. Then any
conducting material, including the human body, that completes the
path from the grounded conductor or neutral to earth ground while the
circuit’s energized will become part of the current-carrying conductor!
The other conductor associated with grounding is the equipment-grounding
conductor, usually called the ground or grounding wires. These conductors
connect the non-circuit metal parts of electrical equipment to ground.
These conductors don’t conduct any electrical current unless a fault
(short circuit) occurs in the circuit. This type of fault is called a ground fault.
When a ground fault occurs, current flows from one of the non-grounded
circuit conductors through the grounding wire to ground. The grounding
wires place the metal parts of equipment at ground potential (the
same as ground itself), thus making it reasonably safe to touch electrical
equipment even when a ground fault exists.
Ground Faults
When a short circuit occurs in a circuit, it will usually cause a very high
circuit current to flow. This high current normally causes the circuit
protection device, whether a fuse or circuit breaker, to open. What
happens if the current isn’t high enough to blow a fuse or open the
circuit breaker?
For example, suppose the insulation between a hot wire and ground
wire doesn’t break down fully and develops only a leakage of current
with a resistance of 240W.
Thus,
120V
240W
I = 0.5 A
Should this happen, 0.5 A of current flows from the ungrounded con-
ductor through the parallel circuit created by the short circuit, to earth
ground. The 15- or 20-A circuit breaker or fuse won’t open because it
hasn’t been exposed to an excess of 15 or 20 amperes of current flow.
It allows the 0.5 A to flow. It doesn’t recognize that it’s a ground-fault
current. If a person like the one in Figure 36 should touch the hot wire
while also touching ground, that person’s body would provide the same
type of leakage path to ground. The leakage current wouldn’t be high
enough to trip the breaker, but it could be high enough to injure or kill
the person. For that reason, a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is
required in some areas for protection against ground faults. A GFCI is
designed to trip when it senses a ground-fault current of only 0.005 A.
This amount of current isn’t enough to kill or even injure a person.
FIGURE 36—The ground-fault
circuit interrupter responds
to the leakage current
returning to a voltage source
by a route other than the
normal return wire. In this
illustration, that route is
through the worker’s body.
GFCI-Protected Circuits
As you know, the NEC requires that GFCIs be used in locations where a
fault current would most likely occur. For a residence, GFCIs are re-
quired to protect the receptacles in the bathroom, kitchen countertops,
wet bars, garages, and on the outside of the house, including swimming
pool areas. To protect workers on construction jobs, GFCIs are required
in most of the general-purpose circuits, especially in those circuits used
to furnish power to hand-held power tools. The worker in Figure 36
would most likely be protected from electrical shock if the circuit that
the electric saw connects to was protected by a GFCI device.
There are three basic types of GFCI protection devices—GFCI receptacles,
GFCI circuit breakers, and portable GFCIs. Figure 37 shows three styles
of GFCI receptacles. The flush-mounted and surface-mounted styles are
available in terminated or feed-through models. Terminated models are
designed only to protect the one receptacle load from ground fault.
Feed-through models are designed to protect the one receptacle load and
all other receptacles that are installed downstream from that receptacle.
However, the other receptacles must be connected to load side of the
GFCI unit. The plug-in unit shown in Figure 38 is available only in a
terminated model.
FIGURE 37—The
flush-mounted and
surface-mounted models
of circuit interrupters fit into
the outlet boxes normally
used to support and protect
power receptacles. The
receptacle into which it’s
plugged supports the
small plug-in model.
(Bottom photo courtesy of Leviton
Manufacturing Co., Inc.)
The second type of GFCI is the GFCI circuit breaker. In this type, a circuit
breaker and a GFCI are combined, providing both overcurrent and
fault-current protection. The circuit-breaker switch may also be used as
an on/off switch for the circuit.
Circuit breakers with GFCI capability are available in models that can be
installed to replace most standard circuit breakers now in use. Examples
of circuit breakers with GFCI protection are shown in Figure 38. Note
that the devices shown also contain test buttons.
FIGURE 38—GFCI Circuit Breakers
The third type of GFCI device is the portable unit. These devices incorpo-
rate both receptacles and circuit breakers. You’ll most likely find these
devices in use on construction sites, where the NEC requires their use.
The ground-fault circuit in a device of this type may or may not be part
of the circuit-breaker assembly.
Other Circuits
Signal Circuits
A chime controlled by push-button switches is one of the most common
signal circuits that’s installed in residential wiring. Figure 39 shows a
circuit that’s supplied by a small step-down control transformer. This
transformer steps the 120 V down to between 12 and 20 V. Because the
transformer power demand is very limited, the normal door chime
transformer primary wires can be connected directly to a 15-A or 20-A
lighting or general-purpose circuit without a special circuit protection.
Small wiring referred to as bell wire, having very thin insulation, is
generally used as conductors in these circuits. This wiring should be
kept at least 2 inches from other wires to prevent currents from being
induced into the bell wire by electromagnetic force, which may cause
unwanted control voltages. Many chimes are designed to sound two

notes, one for the front door and one for the back door. Special push-
button switches are used to activate the chimes.
FIGURE 39—The transformer secondary connections for a door chime circuit are shown in both block diagram
and schematic form. The transformer, shown as the low-voltage AC power source, could be replaced with DC
battery packs for emergency systems.
Buzzers and doorbells were commonly installed before chimes became

popular. They’re similar to chimes in operation and require between 6
and 10 V to operate.
Communication Wiring
Computer/Internet connections, cable television, telephone, and audio
speakers are all examples of communications systems now installed in
modern homes. Communications circuits are often installed in a newly
constructed residence in the same way as electrical branch circuits.
Modern residential as well as commercial wiring jobs often demand
that electricians install data cable for computers, cable for television,
telephone wires, and speaker wire throughout a building.
Wiring for communication systems is often specified on the wiring
diagram to be installed and hooked up by the electrician. When faced
with the job of installing communications wiring, it’s important to select
the correct wire for each communication application and to have the
skills necessary for installing and terminating the cables and connectors.
As the world adapts to the interface of communications systems, the
demand for residential installations is increasing rapidly. The electrician
must now know how to identify cables and devices used to connect data
communications such as computers, DVD, and satellite systems, along
with coax cables for television, telephone cables, and all associated equip-
ment and devices.
Telephone Wiring
Modern residences are often wired with built-in telephone connections
throughout the dwelling. Computer Internet access, fax machines, and
the demand for more than one voice line have all contributed to the
increasing complexity of the typical residential telephone system.
When a telephone company installs a telephone line at a residence, it’s
connected to an enclosure called a demarcation box, shown in Figure 40.
This box may be placed either inside or outside the building. Terminal
blocks are usually located in the demarcation box. Terminal blocks
(Figure 41) are devices that allow multiple lines to be connected from the
demarcation box to multiple locations within the house or building. Think
of the demarcation box/terminal block combination as a distribution
point not unlike the service panel or branch-circuit distribution panel
of the electrical system.
Telephone cable is installed from the terminal block to the wall-mounted

locations in the residence, at which point the residents may connect
their individual telephone equipment. The wall-mounted locations are
commonly referred to as telephone jacks. Special care must be taken in
connecting the telephone cables to the telephone wall jacks, since the
cable is much more fragile than the electrical cable that electricians are
accustomed to installing. Carefully strip the insulation from the paired
telephone cable, preferably using the proper stripping tool, or a stripping
knife. Loosen the terminal screw marked Red and insert the red wire
through the opening in the back of the jack. Wrap it around the terminal
and carefully tighten the screw. The wire should be wrapped in a clock-
wise direction to avoid unwrapping it while tightening the screw terminal.

demarcation box with the
access panel open and
with the access panel
replaced.
CUSTOMER ACCESS COVER OPEN
CUSTOMER ACCESS COVER CLOSED

FIGURE 41—A terminal block allows multiple jacks to be installed. This style of block is mounted
separately from the demarcation box.
Do the same with the green wire. If only one line is being installed,
you’ll need only to install the red and green conductors. The black and
yellow conductors are for a second line if one is to be installed. An
example is shown in Figure 42. After the telephone company has
connected the demarcation box to the telephone service line, test the
telephones for proper operation, and then install the cover on each
telephone jack.
As mentioned previously, a new residential wiring diagram may include
wiring instructions for the communication system conductors as well as
the conventional electrical wiring.
BK=BLACK YL=YELLOW
RD=RED GR=GREEN
FIGURE 42—Conductors are simply attached with the screws according to the color code.
Telephone cables may also be routed through walls by drilling holes in

the wall studs, or installed over ceiling joists. However, telephone wire
is much more delicate and must be handled, protected and supported
accordingly. The NEC covers the installation of communications wires in
Article 800. It states that all communications wires should be installed
separately from light and power circuits unless they’re contained within
or permanently separated by a cable or raceway. If they’re not contained,
at least 2 inches of space must be maintained between the electrical and
communications conductors.
Telephone cables are constructed with color-coded conductor pairs.

Cables range in sizes including 2-, 3-, 4-, 6-, 12-, 25-, and 50-conductor
pairs. The numbered sizes correspond to the number of pairs within a
cable. For example, a two-pair conductor has four individual wires; a
three-pair conductor has six wires, and so on. Telephone conductors are
also categorized by the speed of the equipment they’re designed to
serve. When speeds such as those associated with computers and other
data equipment are involved, the requirement to reduce interference
and cross talk is much higher. Cross talk is noise crossing over from one
line to another when the lines are installed in the same direction next to
one another and don’t have enough space separating them. To avoid cross
talk, modern telephone cables contain only twisted pairs of conductors.
“Twisted pair” means that the wires in each conductor-pair are evenly
twisted around each other.
Communications wires can carry AC and DC volts and should be

disconnected from the circuit before working with the lines. The current
flows when the telephone rings, so taking the telephone off the hook is
also an option. Another way to avoid electrical shock is to connect the
inside lines prior to the telephone company connecting the outside or
final circuit in the demarcation box.
Wiring for Cable Television

Cable television is another type of communications equipment that
requires special communications wiring. Old-style cable television
wiring is normally 75-ohm coaxial cable. Coaxial cable consists of outer
insulation, a braided section, an inner insulation, and a center copper
conductor. Normally the coaxial cable is installed throughout the residence,
then terminated on its own terminals at a wall plate. Terminating the
cable, which may or may not be part of the electrician’s job, involves
installing a connector. When stripping the cable to install a connector,
use the proper coax-stripping tool. The prepared cable should resemble
the one shown in Figure 43A. After the end is prepared, install the
connector by twisting it onto the prepared coax cable end. The connector
contains internal threads that allow it to be threaded onto the coax cable.
An installed coax connector will resemble the one shown in Figure 43B.
NEC requirements for installing coaxial cable are covered in Article 820
and are basically the same as those used to correctly install telephone
cables. New technology in residential television reception, computer
access, and data communication calls for continuous training on the part
of the electrician. Digital and DVD signals are now common in resi-
dences. The cables and connectors used to connect to this new technology
require special stripping and installation tools, as well as specialized
training. It’s recommended that as you encounter these types of installa-
tion, you locate the proper training and tools to properly complete the
assigned task.
FIGURE 43—Use the correct

dimensions (A) when
stripping coaxial cable.
The connector should look
like (B) when finished.
Smoke, Heat, and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Smoke, heat, and carbon monoxide detectors are installed in residences
to warn the occupants of the presence of fire or toxic fumes. Heat detectors
are now being installed in residences in addition to smoke detectors.
They’re not designed to replace smoke detectors. Carbon monoxide
detectors are new on the detector scene but are becoming quite common
in the design and installation of systems in residential dwellings because
of the increasing usage of natural gas as an energy source in homes. The
National Fire Protection Association Standard No. 72 covers the minimum
requirements and installation of heat and smoke detectors in homes as
well as any fire warning equipment. Standard No. 720 covers carbon
monoxide detection and protection. The two types of common smoke
detectors are the photoelectronic type and the ionization type. Most
detectors have an indicator light that shows that the detector is receiving
power. Likewise, the detectors are commonly equipped with a test
button that allows the homeowner to periodically test the unit for
proper operation. Contrary to some belief, smoke detectors won’t sense
heat. Because of this, it’s recommended that homeowners also incorpo-

rate heat detectors into their fire safety protection system. When installing
smoke detectors, the following guidelines provide a minimum of
protection:
1. Always install smoke detectors on every level of a residence.
2. Always install at least one smoke detector in every sleeping room
of the house.
3. If installing detectors in new construction, always interconnect
smoke detectors so that when one operates, all will operate.
4. Make sure that the detectors are UL listed.
Keep in mind that these are only minimum requirements. The ideal pro-
tection system in a home will include an array of intruder alarms,
smoke detectors, heat detectors, and if natural gas is present, carbon
monoxide detectors.
BLACK
120V WHITE
RED
(INTERCONNECT WIRE)
FIGURE 44—When smoke detectors are wired in this manner, it causes all of them to sound if smoke is detected
in an area.

Self-Check 4.
✔ Self-Check 4
1. General-purpose circuits are usually _______ -conductor circuits that distribute 120 V.
2. An electric dryer, 4-wire receptacle is normally rated at _______ amperes.
3. The minimum number of small-appliance circuits required in a kitchen is _______.
4. List the three groups into which the NEC classifies appliances.
5. True or False? Pigtail cords can be used as a disconnecting means for fixed appliances.
6. The neutral wire is a _______ conductor.
7. A standard circuit breaker will trip when a _______ _______ occurs.
8. _______ _______ is used to deliver traditional cable television service.
83
Self-Check Answers
1 3
1. service drop 1. 6
2. switch 2. True
3. series 3. The bathroom
4. alternating 4. The master bedroom
5. 9 (17 – 8 = 9) 5. A switch should be equipped with a
pilot light when the switch is out of
6. grounding sight of the light it controls.
7. load or equipment
8. Any two of the following are correct:
Emergency power, Hazardous area, 4
Alarm, Communication, Control
9. explosion-proof 1. two
2. 30
3. two
2
4. Fixed, Portable, Stationary
1. True 5. False
2. neutral 6. grounded
3. disconnect 7. short circuit
4. 10 8. Coaxial cable
5. False
6. plastic separators
7. grounding
Examination
ONLINE EXAMINATION
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EXAMINATION NUMBER:
00603701
When you’re confident that you’ve mastered the material in your studies, you can
complete your examination online. Follow these instructions:
1. Write down the eight-digit examination number shown in the box above.
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Wiring Electrical Circuits PDF

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Wiring Electrical Circuits PDF

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Study Unit

Wiring Electrical Circuits

When you complete this study unit, you’ll be able to

· Differentiate between feeder and branch circuits

· Identify the components needed for an electrical circuit

· Calculate the current in a neutral conductor

· Calculate the size of service-entrance conductor needed for a residence

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FUNDAMENTALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

INSTALLING SERVICE-ENTRANCE COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

LOCATING RESIDENTIAL DEVICES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

GENERAL CIRCUIT WIRING CONSIDERATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Wiring Electrical Circuits

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FUNDAMENTALS

Parts of an Electrical System

· Service-entrance cable. The service-entrance cable continues from the

FIGURE 1B—This drawing

· Service-disconnecting means. The service-disconnecting means is

· Grounding conductor. The grounding conductor is a low-resistance

· Feeder cable. Feeder conductors extend the electrical system. The

FIGURE 2—A simple circuit

Circuit Characteristics Common Descriptive Terms

Number of wires Two-wire, three-wire, four-wire

Number of phases Single-phase, polyphase, three-phase

Type of grounding Grounded neutral, ungrounded neutral, with ground

Electrical variables High-voltage, low-voltage, high-ampacity, wattage, 60-Hz (hertz)

Wiring method Cable, busway, cable bus, conduit, direct burial

Circuits can also be classed in terms of the type of customer, area

Classes of Circuits Common Descriptive Terms

Area served Hazardous, outdoor, weatherproof, raintight

Section of installation Service entrance, feeder, branch

Type of load General-purpose, lighting, small appliance

Function Power, communications, alarm, control

Method of control Manual, automatic, remote control

Series and Parallel Circuits

RED SWITCH RED

Electrical devices that protect and control an entire circuit or branch of a

Two- and Three-Wire Circuits

FIGURE 5—This shows

Circuit Description by Load Type

Circuit Description by Function

Emergency power can be distributed in one of two ways. Either the

Other unique circuits include alarm circuits, doorbell or chime circuits,

FIGURE 6—The two-door

BLOCK DIAGRAM FOR A

Many major home appliances and a majority of the electrical equipment

FIGURE 7—This shows a control circuit schematic for an air conditioner.

As you gain more experience as an electrician, you should be able to

INSTALLING SERVICE-ENTRANCE COMPONENTS

Sizing and Installing Service-Entrance Conductors

Step 2: Calculate the volt-ampere loads of the kitchen and laundry

Step 5: Find the larger of the heating or air-conditioning load rating

Solution: Follow Steps 1 through 8 above.

Step 1: Calculate the lighting and receptacle load.

2500 sq ft ´ 3 VA/sq ft = 7500 VA (7.5 kVA)

3 ´ 1500 VA = 4500 VA (4.5 kVA)

Apply this to the demand factors based on the optional method

Total: 10000 VA + 9600 VA = 19600 VA

Total from Step 4 19600 VA

Step 6: Divide the total in Step 5 by the provided voltage.

Keep in mind that conductors should be sized so that the esti-

for service equipment and, therefore, the service conductors

100% of the first 3000 VA 3000

35% of the remaining load (.35 ´ 9000) 3,150