Tala, Robert Mark C.

BSIE/3rd-year/SBIE-3A

Electrical Wire Splice Basics & Definitions

Splicing electrical wires - that is, the electrical connection or joining of two or more wires that
conduct electricity in a building - is a task that can be learned easily, but if the splice is not made
correctly, the electrical system will be unreliable and unsafe, risking fire or shock hazards.
The proper way of making safe, secure splices is to make a good mechanical and electrical joint-
that is, strong enough not to pull apart and tight enough so there is no loss of voltage. As this is
tricky work, a continuous run of new wire is always better than any splice.

Different Kinds of Splicing

 Western Union Splice
The Western Union splice works best to splice together small, solid conductors. It is the
most common type of wire splice. To make the Western Union splice, first remove about five
inches of insulation from both wires and cross the exposed wires. Wrap one wire around the
other five or six times, and then do the same with the other. Cut the excess wires off and pinch
the ends down with pliers. Solder the joint together and wrap tape around it.

A tap splice, also called a tap joint, is used to connect a conductor to a running wire. To
make a tap splice, strip about 1½ inches off the running wire. Take the connecting wire and wrap
it once around the running wire. Now wrap the end of the wire through the loop you just made.
Then wrap the connecting wire around the running wire about six times. Make sure the wire
points away from the original turn. Solder the joint and wrap tape around it.
 Fixture splices, or fixture joints, are used to connect wires of different sizes. This joint
requires five inches of insulation stripped off the wire. Hold the wires together and then twist
them a few times with a pair of pliers. Both wires must twist for the joint to be tight. Cut both
ends of wire so that they are the same length, and then take the twisted joint and bend it so that it
lines up with the wires. Take the cut ends and extend them perpendicular to the wire and the
twisted portion. Wrap these two ends in the same direction as the twist. Solder the joint together
and wrap tape around it.

 Rat tail Splice

A rat-tail splice, also known as a twist splice or a pig-tail splice, is a very basic electrical
splice that can be done with both solid stranded wire. It is made by taking two or more bare wires
of the same diameter and wrapping them together symmetrically around each a common axis.
The bare splice can be insulated with electrical tape or other means.
This common and simple splice is not very strong mechanically. It can be made stronger
by coating it with solder, or it can be twisted and then held in place by the internal metal spring
or threads of a twist on wire connection, also called a wire nut. Because it is not very strong, the
splice is not meant to connect wires that will be pulled or stressed. Rather, it is intended for wires
that are protected inside an enclosure or junction box.
  Britannia Splice
A Britannia Splice, also known as a cable spice, is not easy or neither difficult in doing.
This splice is applied on both inside and outside of the building to big solid wire where twisting
is difficult but there is an equipment to lessen the difficulty on doing this kind of splice.

 Through Fixture Join

A Through Fixture join is used where fixture leads are connected to branched wire in an
immediate point.
  Underwriter's Knot
A Underwriter's Knot, also known as Pretzel Knot, is used in making drop cord, tie an
underwriter knot at the top so the weight is supported not by the copper conductors where they
are connected to the terminals, but by the knot.

 Double-Crossed Join
A Double-crossed Join, is used in the same manner as the ordinary-crossed join with the
advantage of being stronger.

Splices in electrical wire that carries electrical current in a building (such as for lights or
electrical outlets) must be completed using an approved mechanical connector and must be
enclosed in an approved junction box which itself is secured to the structure. In addition, the
NEC and other electrical codes specify lots of precise details describing the number of wires of
various sizes that can be enclosed in junction boxes of various sizes, where these boxes must be
located, how they can be covered, etc.
Electrical wires that connect appliances, lamps, stereo equipment, etc to wall outlets should
never be spliced for permanent use, but occasionally, it may be necessary to splice these wires
when repairing or modifying appliances or for emergency repairs.
Our photo shows an improper, unsafe, and certainly not code-compliant splice in lamp cord used
to wire a wall-mounted light fixture. Exposed electrical connections like this are a fire and shock
hazard.
Further, this is an un-approved use of lamp cord or "zip cord" to replace what should have been
approved electrical wire, a junction box, etc. When we see exposed electrical work like this we
know that someone un-trained has been doing electrical work on the building and we need to be
alert for other faulty electrical wiring practices.
How to make a Pigtail Splice in Electrical Wire Using a Twist-on Connector
Strip off at about 1 an inch of insulation from the end of each wire.
When you are joining electrical wires used to carry current in a home you'll be using a solderless
twist-on connector such as we show at left. In this case the length of wire from which you need
to strip insulation depends on the number of wires being joined together and the size of the twist-
on connector you're going to use.
In good practice you don't want to strip off too much insulation - when the splice has been
completed and the twist-on connector has been installed, you should not see any bare wire
exposed extending beneath the bottom edge of the mechanical connector.
If you are stripping wires that are not part of the building's electrical system, such as speaker
wires, you may not be using a mechanical connector, just tape, and the length of wire that you
need to strip depends on the number of wires being joined and your ability to twist them securely
together.
Don't damage the wire during stripping of insulation: Be careful that you don't nick the metal
wire when cutting the insulation in preparation to strip it off.
If you do nick the wire, as shown in my photo (above left) and in Carson Dunlop's sketch
above, the risk is that the nicked end will later break off, destroying your connection, and
perhaps also becoming unsafe. OK to be honest, the nicked copper wire shown in the photo
above had taken a beating during our stripping and insertion of the wire into a push-in type back-
wired electrical receptacle discussed separately
at RECEPTACLE WIRE-TO-CONNECTOR CONTACT AREA SIZES and in a companion
articled at BACK-WIRED ELECTRICAL DEVICES.
Twist the electrical wires together tightly starting at or near the first bit of exposed wire.
Always twist the wires in a clockwise direction. That way when you screw on a twist-on
connector (which also is tightened by turning it clockwise) you won't be un-twisting your wires.
We describe just how we twist wires together for a twisted splice just below in this article.
Trim off sharp points protruding from the end of the twist. Solder the twisted wires at the point
where the twist began.
Splicing three or more wires together
The pigtail type of splice is best when joining three or more wires. The thing to guard against
when more than two wires are involved in the twist is the tendency for one or more of the wires
to remain fairly straight while the others are wrapped around it. When this happens the straight
conductors can be pulled free of the splice fairly readily.
The way to prevent this is to make certain the twist is started with all the wires bent at
approximately a right angle. (Don't bend current-conducting electrical wires at a sharp angle
however.) Then if the bent wires are interlocked and held with pliers, the twist will continue as
started.
1. Starting a three-wire pigtail splice. To interlock all three wires bend each one at a right
angle when you make the first twist. A straight wire will pull out under relatively little
stress.
2. Testing a three-wire pigtail splice. Check that all of your wires participated in the twist
by pulling each individually. Make this check before applying your mechanical connector
such as a twist-on or MAAR.
3. Finish the three-wire pigtail splice by securing it with a mechanical connector as we
discuss below.

How to Twist Electrical Wires Together When Making a Splice

For light wire, such as stereo speaker wires, when two wires are joined, cross about two inches
of each end of prepared wire. Bend the ends of the wires over each other at right angles and twist
them around each other.
For intermediate-sized electrical wires such as #14 copper wire (a 15-Amp electrical circuit) or
#12 copper wire (a 20-Amp electrical circuit), you can usually strip about 3/4" of bare wire
(special stripping tools are available that won't damage the wire or you can work carefully with
wire cutters or a knife), and you can twist your wires together (clockwise) by holding the wires
in one hand and twisting the bare ends using a single pair of pliers.
For heavy-gauge wire, two pairs of pliers are needed to make sure the connection is tight. Use
one pair of pliers to hold the wires at the beginning of the twist.
Use the other pliers to twist the wires. Use wire cutters to trim off the excess wire so that no
sharp ends can penetrate the tape. Solder the wires
The twist-splice in electrical circuit wires in a building must be capped or mechanically secured
using an approved wiring connector.
Twist-on Electrical Connectors - "wire nuts" & MAAR Connectors
Splices in an building's electrical circuit must be connected using an approved wiring connector,
such as a twist-on connector ("Wire Nut" is a trademarked name for a brand of twist-on
connectors.) Twist-on connectors come in different color-coded sizes, and you must choose the
proper twist-on connector, depending on the thickness (gauge) of the wire and the number of
wires you're combining in your splice.
The connector is placed over the end of your twisted splice, pressed onto the wires, and turned
clockwise until it is tight. Be careful when pushing an electrical splice back into the junction box
- don't loosen the connector you've installed or your connection will be poor and possibly unsafe.
Using the wrong type of electrical splice connector, or one for which studies have shown poor
performance, can lead to a melted or failed electrical connection, possibly risking shock or fire.
How to Make Tap Splices in Wires - Older Knob & Tube Wiring
Sometimes it is desirable to join one wire to another at some midpoint without cutting the second
conductor. The tap splice can be used in this case. What characterizes a tap splice is that one
wires to be joined is not cut, but rather is kept continuous.
Remove insulation from about two inches of the continuous run wire.
Wrap the joining wire tightly around the continuous wire. Solder and tape the spliced wires.
A tap splice is shown in our page top sketch at lower right and again here. If the joining wire is
stranded, such as speaker wire, the strands may be separated into two bunches and then wrapped
in opposite directions along the continuous wire to form a more secure connection.
Tap splices are not used in home electrical circuit wiring except for older knob-and-tube
electrical wiring.
Splices to Use When Extending Knob and Tube Electrical Wiring
In some jurisdictions (especially in the U.S.) knob and tube electrical wiring was code-approved
and used into the 1970's or later.
In most jurisdictions there is no requirement that knob and tube wiring be removed or replaced,
but it is not permitted to extend a knob and tube electrical circuit - say by adding wires to
connect additional devices like receptacles.
If the knob and tube wiring system is not in good repair it may need to be replaced for fire safety.
In a jurisdiction where it is permitted to extend a knob and tube electrical circuit, it's necessary to
change from open soldered and tape-wrapped electrical wire splices to splices contained in
electrical junction boxes, as we show in Carson Dunlop's sketch.