Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Introduction
1.1 Sherwani: The Outfit of the Elite
Sherwanis have been flaunted by men, young and old, during some of the best
moments and celebrations of life. And with these moments being as precious as they
are, giving the look your best shot can make you look like prince right out of an
Indian fairytale. However, along with purchasing the right sherwani, styling is right is
equally vital. So here we are to explain all you need to know about the outfit of the
Indian elite!
The sherwani is one of the most glorious ethnic wear men's clothing items. Rich,
elegant and classy, this is one garment that can elevate one's whole appeal. It is no
surprise that there are royal associations with the sherwani for men - this outfit was
essentially invented by designers for the Maharaja of Jodhpur. He wanted a garment
that would capture all the elegance and formality of the western frock-coat, without
giving up on the intricate beauty of traditional Indian clothing. The result was the
sherwani, a long, coat-like garment with a closed neck and full sleeves that is usually
made of heavy, rich fabrics.
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has remained largely unchanged. The constant shape is foreseeable because men’s
fashion has a tendency to stagnant in all cultures. Men’s fashion has always been
more practical rather than aesthetic and its slow paced evolution can be written off to
men’s general unwillingness to experiment with fashion.
It is a long coat like attire worn by men, over a Kurta and Churidar, Pajama or
Shalwar, quite similar to Achkan or Doublet. A regal clothing inspired by the
fascinating stories of the Mughals and nobles of ancient times is a form of clothing
which till this day has the same regal effect that has been presented since its creation.
Over the years the sherwani has become a staple Indian evening wear garment for
men. It is worn for festivals, weddings, parties and other special events. However, the
richest and most beautiful of all is the Indian wedding sherwani. Weddings are an
extremely important celebration in Indian culture and everyone present is expected to
be decked out in their finest. For men, the sherwani is the obvious choice as it is
formal and yet extremely beautiful and decorative.
Sherwanis come in a plethora of colors, designs, patterns and fabrics. Today designers
don't hesitate to use unusual colors and designs as the younger generation loves
exploring fashion beyond the conservative limits. Thus, soft pastel shades, shining
metallic designs and colorful motifs are all frequently seen in any designer sherwani
collection. In terms of fabrics, the most popular ones are brocade (from Banaras),
woven silks and velvet. Georgette has also made its presence felt in sherwani fashion
in recent years.
Traditionally, Indian fabrics came with beautiful motifs woven into the textile itself.
This tradition continues till today. To further beautify the cloth, designers also love
using techniques like zari, zardosi, ek taar, gota patti and cut dana to create intricate
designs along the borders and the neckline. Motifs can range from simple flowers,
leaves, trees and buds to elaborate mythological scenes and abstract artwork.
Originally, it was a creative combination of the Salwar Kameez and the British frock
coat. Initially, it was only donned by the Indian royals and noble kings and was their
basic attire which showcased wealth and prosperity through the decorative
embellishments that adorned the beautiful garment. Somewhere around the late 18th
century, it was taken on as a dressing style by various people regardless of their social
standing.
It was also a popular form of attire during the Aligarh movement, which took place
before Indian independence since several students and teachers wore this attire.
Following this, several Indian and Pakistani leaders like Jawaharlal Nehru and
Muhammad Ali Jinnah also donned the Sherwani and made it an intrinsic part of their
wardrobe.
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The sherwani originated in the 19th century British Indiaas the European style court
dress of nobles and royals of northern India, before being more generally adopted in
the late 19th century. It appeared as a fusion of the British frock coat and an achkan,
first at Lucknow in the 1820s. It was gradually adopted by rest of the Indian royalty
and aristocracy, and later by the general population, as a more evolved form of
occasional traditional attire. The name of attire is possibly derived from Shirvan or
Sherwan, a region of present-day Azerbaijan due to the folk dress of that area
(Chokha) which resembles Sherwani in its outlook.
Fig. 2: Jawaharlal Nehru (right) and Muhammad Ali Jinnah (left) can be seen in
Sherwani
After the Mauryan Empire, the Satavahana or Andhra Empire was the next great
empire. It existed for 460 years and ran parallel to the Kushan Empire for a few years.
It was a peaceful and economically prosperous period. Trade with Rome increased
tremendously in this period. Clothes worn in this period were made of thin cotton.
The three main articles of clothing were- the antariya, uttariya and kayabandh. But,
evidence of mixture of foreign and indigenous garments is also found.
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• Kayabandh was wound once or twice around the waist over the tunic. Along
with this,hunters used to wear two-bar type sandals with a strap for buckling.
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Fig. 6: Different types of Turbans and Headgears
• Coarse and fine varieties of cotton were widely used. Silk was usually worn by
the rich.The labourers and weavers used to wear a very cheap material made
of hemp. Wool was not needed much because of the warm climate.
• A variety of dyes were available. These were- indigo, yellow, crimson,
magenta, black and turmeric.
• Rich people wore printed and woven cloths which were embellished with
embroidery in gold. The utariya was made of silk and was embroidered with
flowers all over or had a pattern of birds with flowers. Precious stones were
also used in the borders of the uttariyas.
• These were dyed blue or red, but men preferred to wear a spotless white
uttariya.
The costumes in this period varied from region to region. The ordinary dress consisted
of antariya, uttariya and kayabandh and turban for men. With the advent of the
Kushans,the fashion of wearing sewn garments made headway with all classes of
Indians in North India.
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length woolen coat or caftan which was worn either loose or crossed over
from right to left and secured by a belt of leather or metal.
• A third garment called chugha was worn ocasionally. The chugha was a coat-
like garment decorated with a border down the chest and hemline and had slits
to facilitate movement.
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• Bright and light blue, dark blue-copper, brown, dark bronze-green, crimson,
pink, rich red, yellow, yellow-brown, yellow-green, rich dark yellow-brown
were the various mixtures of the colors in dyes that were available in India in
this period.
After the end of Kushan Empire in the middle of third century, a new Empire was
founded in Northern India at the beginning of the fourth century AD. The Gupta
Empire was a big empire and lasted for more than two centuries. This empire is also
called the 'Golden Age' or the "Classical Period'. People of this age preferred to wear
stitched garments.
The Gupta kings liked to wear tunics, trousers and high boots. They seldom wore
tunics. The unstitched garment was also worn but the styles of wearing and patterning
had changed to a great extent in this age. Evidences show that people of this era were
aware of laundering, calendaring, starching and perfuming. The clothes that were
changed everyday were called nityanivasana. There were some clothes that were put
on after the daily ritual bath. These were called maijanikama. Clothes that were worn
on special occasions were called kshanotsavikama.
2.5.2 Attire
Fig.11: Kanchuka with front opening Fig. 12: Kanchuka with V-neck
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2.5.3 Hairstyles and headgears
• In royal entourage, high officials continued to wear the turban. The turbans
became a distinctive symbol of the various ranks in the courts. It was made of
fine muslin. The turban was either tied over a large knot of hair at the center of
the forehead or a striped turban was worn flat and then twisted that gave a
rope like effect to the cloth when wound.
• Men used to wear a tiara or crown with a band inset with pearls or festooned
with garlands. Kings used to wear this when formally dressed. Attendants
wore this with shoulder-length hair.
• The king used to wear a skull cap or helmet as headgear.
Fig. 13: Tiara with pearl Fig. 14: Twisted turban with gems and brooch
2.6.2 Attire
• The Mughal endeavour of unifying all of India’s smaller warring princely
states under one rule resulted in the birth of India as a country. This union
affected Indian fashion in a way that the reinvention of the Chak-Daar-Jama
cemented the position of the earliest style of sherwani into the wardrobes of
Royal families across India.
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• The Jama was retitled as Sarbgati
meaning ‘covering the entire body’ and
it was the Jama worn by men that
became the foundation for the modern
day sherwani. Jama-like coats were first
donned in the time of the Kushans or
Scythians and disappeared soon after.
These coats were refashioned and
brought back by Emperor Akbar
especially for the men in his Mughal
court in the 16th century.
• Akbar’s restyled version did not have slits and featured a rounded hemline and
fuller skirt. The new version was called the Chak-Daar-Jama. The open jacket
style garment was fastened with a fabric belt called Patka that was often hand
woven with intricate and complex designs. The sash like belt was also used to
suspend bejewelled swords. The Chak-Daar-Jama went on to become the
official court costume for men in Akbar’s court. Even though the Chak-Daar-
Jama was a fusion of both Hindu and Muslim faiths, Akbar ordered the Hindus
to fasten theirs on the left as per their traditions and the Muslims to tie theirs
on the right to maintain distinction but also respect their religions.
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2.7. British Period
As the Mughal rule ended and the British colonised India, the sherwani went through
another metamorphosis.Towards the end of the British rule the sherwani became the
symbol of ethnic pride in Indian men. The many upheavals of the freedom struggle
especially the Aligarh movement saw many revolutionaries wearing the garment as
they rejected Britsh made clothing and cloth. The sherwani styles from the British era
and the Independence movement remained prevalent and are still worn by Indian
men.
2.7.2 Attire
The voluminous skirt and rounded hemlines were streamlined into more structured
fitted jackets resembling British frock coats worn by East India officials and the
British military. Sherwani silhouettes evolved from the open jacket into styles with
double-breasted buttons, collars, lapels and closed collars. These sherwani styles were
no longer only for Indian royalty as prosperous businessmen, artists, bankers and
others from more affluent means started adopting the garment.
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2.8 Sixth Nizam of Hyderabad
It is a known fact that the Sixth Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan had a taste for the good
things in life. Visitors to the Nizam’s Museum in Purani Haveli area of Hyderabad are
stunned to see the walk-in wardrobe that appears endless. “He never repeated a
dress,” is the whispered word. But new research has spotlighted his role in the
evolution of the sherwani which is now the dress of choice during weddings and is
preferred by the political class during ceremonial occasions. on January 24, 1893,
perhaps at 4 pm, that the world got its first memorable glimpse of the sherwani when
Mahbub Ali Khan wore it and sat down with Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria,
then travelling in India, for a post-lunch photograph by the team of Raja Deen Dayal
at the Chowmahalla Palace.
Fig.19: First glimpse of the sherwani when Mahbub Ali Khan (right) wore it and sat down
with Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria (left)
2.8.2 Attire
The achkan was extremely popular and the style started to find its way from the towns
to the villages. In a very short time it was worn throughout India. In Hyderabad, it
developed, with a few alterations, into the sherwani. Its sleeves were made like those
of an English coat, the adornments over the chest were discarded and for the lower
part the shape of an English overcoat was adopted. It became so popular everywhere,
including Lucknow, that it is now the national dress of all Hindus and Muslims in
India.
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Hyderabad can lay claim on the ownership
of the sherwani. The sherwani was a
gradual evolution of angarakha which had
laces on either the right or left shoulder to
tie up the flaps. A similar garment would
be a women’s kurti with the cut not in the
middle but across the right or left
shoulder. But the sherwani revolution
happened when the buttons moved to the
centre.
3. Influence On Sherwani
A Sherwani is an Indian equivalent of a western suit. It is considered a formal
garment that is worn for important events in India. The Sherwani has evolved over
time and usually reflects the cultural, political and economic situations that exist in
the country. Currently in India, Sherwanis are preferred for weddings by the grooms.
As a formal piece of clothing, the Bandhgala takes preference for men - but there is a
history for Sherwanis that is rich and deserves some commentary.
Sherwanis for men are two-piece garments that are comprised of:
- Jacket: The length is waist length, long sleeves and usually with a Nehru collar
- Pants: Normally styled trousers or a tightly fitted trousers called a churidar
An optional extra accessory is usually a scarf that is worn around the neck. This can
be embroidered, printed or just plain - normally in bright colours. The scarf is
normally worn for festive occasions like weddings or festivals and seldom for formal
occasions. Sherwanis are versatile garments that are worn for formal and festive
occasions alike but the styling is changed to suit the occasion.
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Economics situations also influence the type of detailing and fabrics used
for Sherwanis for men. Silk and linen are expensive fabrics that affluent communities
can afford. Less affluent communities tend to use cheaper silks and blended fabrics
like cotton-silks for their Sherwanis.
4. Types Of Sherwani
Sherwanis come in a number of styles that are eye-catching and exquisite to behold.
1. Classic Sherwani:
The original or classic sherwani is an ever green style that has gone
through the test of time.
This type of sherwani is
available in all fabrics and
colors. Fabrics like
Jamawar, Silk and Suiting
stuff are used on this dress
for men. Designer wedding
sherwani for grooms are
mostly made in classic
style. This style makes the
groom standout in the
crowd and makes him look
like a royal prince. If added
with a contrasting turban
and stole, the dignity and
prestige of the groom goes
to the next level.
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2. Anarkali style:
3. Pakistani:
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4. Angrakha style:
5. Achkan style:
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6. Jacket-style:
The jacket-style ethnic wear is
yet another influence for the
earlier days where the jacket
was worn over kurtas and
more.Making use of the
classic fabric like the tusser,
raw silk, Jamwar stone wash
and Banarasi to add the
classiness, these sherwani
jackets are further known for
their antique motifs, sequined
work or zardosi work. The
kurti worn under the jacket
are mostly plain and simple to
balance off the heavy jacket
work. Long pajama, churidar
or even broad/flared pants are
worn with Jacket style
sherwanis.
7. Jodhpuri style:
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8. Indo-western style:
For those who love the modern
style of dressing as much as the
traditional, indo-western is the
perfect look to merge the two and
create an even stunning style. A
fine fusion of traditional with just
the right touch of modern makes
Indo western Sherwanis the
trendsetter in the current wedding
wear for men. From choicest
fabrics be it silk, raw silk or
velvet in vibrant and contrasting
hues to simple or fancy
embellishments, these sherwanis
are a complete package for any
groom. Complement the sherwani
with smart, stylish bottoms like
peshwari dhoti, churidar or simple
slacks and a matching dupatta and
you are all set to shine.
9. Chipkan style:
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5. Innovative Ways Of Wearing A Sherwani
Men’s fashion scene has crossed the speedway tremendously giving a contemporary
style approach towards the wedding outfit. Sherwanis have proved themselves as the
stylish yet classy piece of the robe that gives a smart and majestic focus light, as we
stand apart from the herd of men wearing the suits sets. For carrying off the sherwani
the right way it is necessary to choose the style as per the personality and with the
perfect body measurements of the wearer.
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5.3. The Minimalistic Outlook
Keep the outfit simple and stylish with a
plain tussar silk or matka silk muted shade
sherwani pairing it with off-white chikankari
kurta and beige churidar bottom along with
handcrafted mojdi, jooti or kolhapuri
chappal and accessorizing it with a striking
brocade navy blue turban and wrist watch.
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5.6. The Pull Of Traditionality
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6.2. Pajamas:
The Pajama (also written as ‘Pyjama or Paijama’) has Persian roots,which stands for
‘leg garment’. It was introduced to Indians by the Mughals. Pajama was used as an
English word during the 17thcentury for a garment that resembled Indian trousers. The
Pajamas have undergone many changes since its earlier days of being an Indian loose
bottom wear that was tightened in place with drawstrings. The modern day Pajamas,
though derived from the traditional Pajamas, are nevertheless quite different. Now
you have many styles of Pajamas in different fabrics, designs, cuts and
embellishments.
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6.1. Corduroys:
Churidars, or more properly churidar pyjamas, are tightly fitting trousers worn by
both men and women in the Indian subcontinent. Churidars are a variant of the
common shalwar pants. Shalwars are cut
wide at the top and narrow at the ankle.
Churidars narrow more quickly, so that
contours of the leg are revealed. They
are usually cut on the bias, making them
naturally stretchy. Stretch is important
when pants are closefitting. They are
also longer than the leg and sometimes
finish with a tightly fitting buttoned cuff
at the ankle. The excess length falls into
folds and appears like a set of bangles
resting on the ankle (hence 'churidar';
'churi': bangle, 'dar': like). When the
wearer is sitting, the extra material is the
"ease" that makes it possible to bend the
legs and sit comfortably. The word
churidar is from Urdu and made its way
into English only in the 20th century.
Earlier, tight fitting churidar-like pants
worn in India were referred to by the British as Moghul breeches, long-drawers, or
mosquito drawers.
6.4. The every-elegant dhoti:
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7. Accessories Along With A Sherwani
A sherwani is never right
alone. A number of things
can be paired with the
Indian sherwani to enhance
the regality of the look.
7.1 Jewels:
7.2 Pagri:
The pagri or the safa, while can be foregone, looks absolutely stunning with the
sherwani. A pagri that matches he shades your sherwani instead of the usual
monochrome is another way to give your look a twist. Pagri is the headdress that is
worn by men and is manually tied. There are several styles, which are specific to the
wearer's region or religion, and they vary in shape, size and colour. For example,
the Mysore Peta, the Marathi pheta, Puneri Pagadi and the Sikh Dastar .The pagri is a
symbol of honour and respect everywhere it is worn. It is a common practice to
honour important guests by offering them one to wear.
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7.3 Juttis:
7.4 Stole:
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7.4.1 How to Style a Sherwani Dupatta or Stole?
A stole is the perfect element to add to a dazzling sherwani. A lot can be done with
this simple piece of cloth if you know how to carry it.
• Pleating it Right: A fancy touch to the common style of wear a dupatta, pleating
it right and wearing it across from one side to another is sure to look glam. Just tie
the ends in a knot on the other side!
• Ruffled neckpiece: Wind up the stole around your neck in the form of a ruffled
neckpiece! Make sure to keep the stole a contrasting color for it to pop out more.
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• A pagri-cum-stole: What’s better than carrying two accessories at one? Blending
both into one! A pagri with a long end can act as both a head gear and a stole on a
lovely sherwani. Go for floral prints or something equally exquisite instead of
monochromes.
• The elegant drape: One way of perfectly draping a stole is to have it draped on one
shoulder and bringing the other end to elegantly drape around the opposite arm.
Fig. 31: Stole draped on one shoulder and carried by the opposite arm
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8. Sherwani Suits for Women
A Sherwani is a long, coat like shirt that is worn over a pair of churridar pants. This
ensemble is a popular choice for men looking for an interesting outfit for a formal
event, however, jacket style or sherwani suits for women are widely admired as well,
though less known.
8.1 Origin
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8.5 Choosing the right footwear:
In order to really highlight the overall silhouette that is created by this outfit, high
heeled shoes are considered the most appropriate type of footwear. However, wearing
ethnic flat footwear such as juttis or V shaped slippers is also quite common.
8.8 Innovations
With regal intricacies involved, Sherwani, as an apparel was originally designed only
for men. However, the modern women seeking confidence in various attires have
found Sherwani, a good pick for regal and bold looks. With its close resemblance
with Kurta, women wear Sherwani Coats over their Salwar Kameez or Lehenga or
Straight pants adds sophistication to their attires.
9. Future Of Sherwani
The future of Sherwanis may be even better than it is now. The advanced technology
with optimistic and young innovative designers in our current generation have seemed
to have stepped up their game and compete to make the best Sherwanis we will ever
see.Sherwanis have stood the test of time. We have been wearing them for hundreds
of years and will continue to do so but as with everything else they have evolved.
Each new season there is subtle changes made by each designer, some stay and some
fade away.
Designers face tough competition, they constantly have to innovate in order to keep
fans and critics impressed. They experiment with new fabrics, different embroidery
techniques and sherwani patterns in order to keep the garment fresh and appealing as
it always has been. Although it is not hard to get people to like sherwanis - they
remind us of royalty who wouldn't want to be King for a day it is hard to keep people
buying the same product generation after generation with barely any changes.
Currently the classic wedding sherwani is heavy on embroidery but in the future, this
could change to a relatively simple pattern instead having the focus on the colours.
Or designers could create a new fabric that rivals the luxury of silk and velvet in order
to use in future sherwanis.
9.1 How communities and cultures will continue to grow
Initially, the sherwani was worn only by men of noble birth or royal status in the
Mughal Empire. However, it evolved into traditional, formal attire for respectable
men such as professors or academics. The sherwani is still the most commonly worn
male garment at Muslim weddings today. Many Indian weddings also note the groom
dressed in a sherwani for formal ceremonies such as the reception.Because Sherwanis
are always embroidered in silver or gold thread and decorated with elaborate designs,
they are most appropriate for wedding ceremonies which is why the advanced designs
that are being produced my obtain interest from other cultures because of the quality
of this type of garment.The timeless royalty of Sherwanis simply can't be beat, and
that's why it's the go-to outfit for South Asian weddings. Other menswear includes the
more casual men's jackets.
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9.2 New Styles
Most Sherwanis are cut to fall above the knee and are styled with a Mandarin collar
(often with buttons at the top of the garment.) Wedding sherwanis tend to be light in
color, as to appear more regal. Reception Sherwanis are slightly similar but are more
subtle in embroidery. However, modern sherwanis can be flexible in length, collar
design, and colors due to our current generation being so advanced in the clothing
industry.
9.3 New Designs
Sherwanis are getting more and more better in its beauty as it's never plain and
is always made out of nice fabrics, such as silk, satin, or expensive linen. They are
generally decorated much like women's clothing - heavily embroidered, beaded, or
embellished with floral patterns.
Wedding Sherwanis are notable for having decorated collars, often embroidered or
beaded. Comparatively, a formal sherwani worn to a business event might be more
plain and monochrome with little to no embroidery.
Because sherwanis are usually only worn to formal events such as dinner parties,
awards receptions, or weddings, they are expected to be extravagant. A Sherwani
would not be worn to a casual event - as this attire, while similar to a Sherwani, would
fall under the category of a men's jacket or kurta instead.
9.4 Innovation
A popular variant of the Sherwani was the Nehru Jacket, which is essentially the same
top albeit with a collared neck. This is sometimes accompanied by a breast pocket;
however, that isn’t always the case. This variant became, over the course of time, a
highly iconic ensemble that is associated not only with Jawaharlal Nehru but also with
the swinging 60s.
9.5 Global presence
Apart from the Nehru Jacket, the archetype of this ensemble is vastly popular across
the world. Often seen as a popular garment that can be worn during weddings,
Sherwanis for men and women have been featured in various films within the Hindi
film industry as well as Hollywood.
This outfit is iconic and therefore, easily remembered when people are looking to buy
Indian ethnic clothing. Due to its versatility in terms of the fabrics that can be used to
create it, it is also apt for countries with varying weather conditions as well.
10. Conclusion
The history of this traditional garment is rich and has many aspects that influence the
styling. The Sherwani is a garment that is worn with pride by a lot of people and has
served multiple purposes over time. It continues to be the choice for festive and
wedding celebrations.
This study of the sherwani helped to shed light on the confused picture of Indian
menswear history during the last 300 years. It has helped to find the origins of the
sherwani. The sherwani is a blend of Indian and British fashions of the 19th century.
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The sherwani has come to symbolise ‘traditional’ Indian dress, everyone attributed it
to an earlier Mughal culture, and some went as far as believing that it came from Iran
or Turkey, or that the Mughal kings used to wear it.
This study has brought to light many important facts about the sherwani. I can
confidently say now that the sherwani was born in late 19th century India, sometime
around the 1880s. This was the time when the stand-up collar of the sherwani was
worn on army uniforms and the dress and undress such as the frock coat of colonial
rulers. Through global connections by trade, fashions travelled. The three-piece suit
became the most popular mode of dress and was also adopted by the well–educated
elite Indian men in the early 20th century. The freedom movement gained impetus in
India in the second decade of the same century, and many of these elite men changed
their dress to represent the one nation of India. Indians came together and adopted the
sherwani that was worn by the nawabs at that time. The sherwani could be worn with
any kind of lower garment. Although mostly it was worn with the chooridar pyjama,
the sada pyjama, straight trousers and even the dhoti could accompany it. Western
shoes were adopted by most men, but they continued to wear their regional turbans as
a mark of regional identity, as is shown in images of 1930s and early 1940s.
Both evolutionary and revolutionary impacts can be seen in this elite Indian
menswear. The evolutionary impact of the British rule on Sherwani was the
hybridisation of different cultures’ dress and the invention of new garments such as
the angrakha and achkan. The adoption of foreign articles of wear became very
prestigious. The coat is one such garment which was adopted by the Indians. But
Indian clothes like the dhoti also became very visible. This shows the adaptability and
innovation of fashion: foreign garment can be absorbed and rendered indigenous by
the people. The inclusion of pockets and buttons and the wearing of shoes and socks
were all evolutionary changes.The Indian identity can be divided into modern and
traditional. In order to preserve their traditional image, the Indian princes could not
completely adopt western fashion in public. They had to retain the traditional Indian
identity that was associated with them. Neither the Indians nor the British were happy
to see the rajas in western clothes, and as a result they created new ‘traditions’,
looking for modernity with an Indian twist. The sherwani helped them to satisfy the
needs of modernity and preserve tradition. This discovery answers the third and fourth
questions as well. The kind of garments that emerged, like the achkan, the chapkan
and the sherwani, were a blend of both cultures. These garments cannot be said to be
purely Indian because they had elements like buttons and pockets as well as tailoring
techniques that were borrowed from the west.
The sherwani was deliberately worn by India’s first cabinet after independence. This
helped to create the image of sherwani as a traditional garment. It has also been
discussed that there are two types of sherwanis: one related to rajas and bridegrooms,
the other related to nationalists and educated people. Both the types of sherwanis have
carved a place for themselves in the Indian psyche and worldwide. Indian leaders and
bridegrooms wear the sherwani, thinking that it belongs to an era before the British
rule. The legacy of the sherwani continues in 21st century India as a traditional
garment, and lots of tailors and menswear designers still work producing elegant
sherwanis for India’s men, claiming to make India’s traditional garment, without
realising that its beginnings were in the late 19th century during the British raj and not
in the Mughal Empire.
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11. Interesting facts and trivia
1. Singer, composer, A.R .Rahman wore a stellar black Sherwani while receiving
his Oscars. It was designed by Indian Designer – Sabyasachi Mukherjee who’s
idea was to showcase this traditional standard of South-Asian clothing to the
West.
2. Designer Rohit Bal designed Sherwanis for the British Airways, to class up
the cabin crew on flights to South Asia.
Fig. 37: Sherwanis for the British Airways designed by Rohit Bal
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3. A Sherwani like variant also featured in the popular Television Series – Game
Of Thrones, where one of the show’s most fiery and spirited characters –
Oberyn Martel played by Pedro Pascal is seen wearing the outfit.
Fig. 38: Sherwani like variant worn by Pedro Pascal in Game of Thrones
4. Former Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru even used the sherwani as a style
statement during his visits to various foreign countries and events in India.
Fig. 39: Jawaharlal Nehru used the sherwani as the style statement
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5. The Mughal era was beautifully depicted in the movie Jodha-Akbar where
Bollywood superstar Hrithik Roshan played Emperor Akbar and wore
costumes that were painstakingly researched and flawlessly recreated by ace
designer Neeta Lulla.
Fig. 40: Actor, Hrithik Roshan, who played Emperor Akbar, wore Mughal sherwani
designed by Neeta Lulla
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12. Glossary
1. Achkan – A long coat-like garment derived out of the angrakha and chapkan,
originated in Lucknow during the mid-19th century. It has an extension called
a balabar, which is tied inside. It has panels on the front and back, and usually
has full sleeves. The front panels overlap and are usually secured by buttons in
the centre front from the neckline to the waist.
4. Antariya – A rectangular piece of fabric worn or draped around the lower part
of the body like a loincloth in ancient India. This could be draped in a variety
of ways, and could vary in length from mid-thigh to ankle length, depending
on class and status. Today the antariya has various names depending on how it
is tied like the dhoti, tehmet, etc.
5. Atma Sukh – A type of quilted choga (see choga for detail), with a lining
inside. It may or may not have ties in front.
6. Bagalbandi – A kind of waistcoat which had an extra panel that would be tied
on the inside – side-seam. The name is made by joining two words – ‘bagal’
means side and ‘bandhi’ means to tie.
7. Balabar – A type of tunic like an alkaluk or angrakha, which has four panels
and six ties.
9. Choga or Jubba - This is a long loose robe which is completely front open. It
was generally worn by men of upper class over the angrakha. It could be
halfsleeved or full-sleeved. It was mostly made of silk or wool and heavily
embroidered. The half-sleeve short choga was called a farzi.
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10. Farzi – A short choga – to the knees - which was either sleeveless or
halfsleeved (the sleeve ending before reaching the elbows).
11. Ghundi – These are small, roughly pea-sized, buttons made out of fabric, that
are attached to angrakhas as closures instead of ties. They can be closed with
loops on the other side of the panel.
12. Jama - A long tunic-like dress, which has an upper bodice that is attached to
the lower skirt at the waist. The length of the jama could be anywhere from
just below the knees to almost heel-length; the fullness of the skirt and the
length of the garment varied with time. The upper bodice is normally full
sleeved. The garment is completely front open and one side wraps over the
other at the front. The lower part is like a wrap-around skirt and the upper
bodice has a flap in front which could be worn in either the left or right
direction, which is tied by strings. It is seen in most of the Mughal miniature
paintings as the favoured article of men’s clothing. The styles of jama
underwent changes with the passage of time. A belt known as a cummerbund
or patka was tied at the waist on top of the jama. It was accompanied by loose
or tight trousers or even a dhoti at times. For traveling out of the house or for
public functions or occasions a choga was worn on the jama. Depending on
the season either a heavy choga was worn over it or a light jacket (sometimes
quilted) was worn.
13. Kayabandh – A fabric belt, tied around the antariya to keep it in place. The
name changed to patka during the medieval period, and it was alternatively
called a cummerbund or kamarbandh.
14. Khadi – A coarse, plain-weave fabric made out of hand-spun cotton yarn.
This fabric was promoted by Mahatma Gandhi during India’s struggle for
freedom: he insisted people should spin their own yarn and weave fabric
indigenously instead of buying imported fine fabric.
15. Kimkhwab – A type of brocade made in Banaras using gold and silk.
16. Mashru – A striped fabric woven out of silk and cotton. Neema or Nima or
Nimjama– A type of undergarment, worn on the upper part of the body,
underneath the jama. It is similar to the jama, but reaches just above the knees.
It is a half-sleeved garment with small armholes, and its flaps overlap in the
centre front with the help of ties.
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18. Patka – A rectangular piece of fabric used as a belt or girdle to tighten the
clothes from the waist. It was also worn so that small and big items, like
swords, could be carried in it.
19. Poshteen – A sheepskin coat with fur lining worn by the Afghans and adopted
as uniform by the British Army in the colder months or while fighting in
northern or mountainous regions of India.
20. Pyjama - Trousers that are loose and have been worn in India since the
Mughal rule are known as pyjamas. 'Pai' means leg and 'jama' means clothes
or robes. They also have specific names like chooridar pyjama, seedha pyjama
and so on depending on the style of pyjamas.
22. Sherwani – A coat-like garment that originated in Hyderabad in the late 19th
century. It has a British influence in its cut and methods of stitching and
attachments. It also has an Indian influence (from the achkan and choga) in
terms of its length and the way it is worn.
23. Turban – This was (and still is) Indian men’s primary headgear. It is normally
an unstitched piece of rectangular fabric. Its length, colour and style of draping
vary from region to region. It denotes class, caste, region and religion. It was a
very important item of clothing. It still exists in Indian villages but has more
or less vanished from cities and towns. Although it is still used during
weddings, it is no longer an item of daily wear. During the late Mughal era
and the British era, we also see a lot of stitched turbans come into use.
24. Vaskat – A corrupt form of the word waistcoat. Short sleeveless waistcoats
or jackets were known as vaskats.
25. Uttariya – A rectangular piece of fabric, like a shawl, worn or draped on the
upper part of the body by both men and women in ancient India. It could be
made of coarse fabric for the poor and fine fabric for the rich.
37
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