Indian Journal of Agriculture

and Allied Sciences

ISSN 2395-1109 www.ijaas.org.in
e-ISSN 2455-9709 Received: 15.02.2019, Accepted: 20.03.2019
Volume: 5, No.: 1, Year: 2019 Publication Date: 30th March 2019

COSMECEUTICALS AND AYURVEDIC APPPROACH OF SKIN CARE

Gyan Chand Kr. Morya1 and K.N. Dwivedi2
1 2
PhD Scholar and Professor, Department of Dravyaguna, Faculty of Ayurveda, Institute of Medical Sciences, Banaras
Hindu University, Varanasi, E-mail: drgyan18@gmail.com, Corresponding Author: Gyan Chand Kr. Morya

Abstract: Beauty is the most important attractive factor in the life of people. Beautification and grooming
have been the main aim of cosmetics. Cosmeceuticals products have a biological effect on the human skin
and hair, which improves complexion, texture, appearance of skin. Cosmetology, the science has been
practiced since time immemorial for beautification in the discrete manner in Ayurvedic texts. The recent
interest of population in herbal cosmetics has been stimulated by the decline of faith in modern cosmetics
and increased acceptance as well as availability of herbal cosmetics. Judicious use of Ayurvedic herbs for
cosmetic benefits has been certainly provides a solution to various skin pathology.
Keywords: Cosmeceuticals, Cosmetics, Ayurveda, Skincare.

Introduction: Beauty is the most important
attractive factor in the life of people. Apart from
the beauty of soul and mind, beauty of skin
creates much attractive effect on the eyes of
peoples. Beautification and grooming have been
the major concern of common people since time
immemorial. Cosmeceuticals are those cosmetics
that contain ingredients which have medical
benefits. Cosmeceuticals products have a
biological effect on the human skin and hair,
which improves complexion, texture, appearance
of skin[1]. The cosmeceuticals in Ayurveda like
Varnyakara Dravyas, Raktaprasadana Dravyas
which have been used in the form of Lepa
(herbal topical applications), Abhyanga (oil
massage), Udvartan (message with with herbal
paste), Swedana (Sweating) and Panchakarma
(Purification therapy). They are not only
beautifying externally, but also improving the
health of skin.
Skin Health: Sparshnendriya (skin) is the most
important and widely present sense organ. It is
susceptible to various external and internal
pathological conditions. “Sapta twacha”, the
seven layers of skin described in Ayurveda.
Avabhasini (stratum corneum), outermost layer
of skin, is responsible for maintaining the
integrity and hydration of the skin. Pimples, acne
and dandruff occur in this layer. Lohita
(corneocytes layer) is the second layer of skin.
Moles, dark circles and black pigmentations
occur in this layer. Shweta (stratum granulosum)
is third layer of skin in which eczema and
allergic rashes are occurring. Tamra (stratum
basale) is the fourth layer of skin, site of different
types of leprosy. Vedini (dermis papillary layer)
is fifth layer and site of herpes. Rohini (reticular
layer) is the sixth layer, site of cancer, tumors,
elephantiasis. Mamsadhara (subcutaneous tissue)
is the innermost layer for skin's stability and
firmness. The size of this layer varies throughout
the body and from person to person. Abscess
and fistulas arises in this layer [2]. Healthy states
of Doshas and Dhatus as well as Prakruti of
person are consideration for healthy body as well
as healthy skin. Twak Sara and Rasa Sara
Purush[3] are the person represent with ideal skin.
Rasa is responsible for health, complexion
and satisfaction. Vitiation of Rasa gives rise to
reduction in normal activities, anorexia, nausea,
weak digestive power, fever, restlessness,
emaciation and dryness and wrinkling of skin,
premature greying of hair. Rakta is responsible
for maintaining life, complexion and nutrition of
the body. Vitiation of Rakta causes Kushtha
(skin diseases), Raktapitta (bleeding disorders),
Visarpa (erysipelas) and others[4].
Factors Responsible for Skin Diseases
1. Apathya Aahar
2. Exposure to environmental pollution
3. Solar radiation
Cosmeceuticals and Ayurvedic Appproach of Skin Care
4. Adverse effects of chemicals drugs and
cosmetics
5. Stress
Factors Responsible for Skin Health
1. Proper balance of Kapha (moisture balance),
2. Proper balance of Bhrajak Pitta (balanced
effective metabolism that coordinate all the
Physicochemical and hormonal reactions of
the body)
3. Proper balance of Vata (balanced efficient
flow of nutrients to the different layers of the
skin).
4. Rakta prasadhana (detoxify the blood)
5. Varnaprasadana (herbs which bring about
and establish the original colour and
complexion of skin).
Cosmeceuticals Used in Ayurveda
Varnya (Anti-complexion): The group of drugs
which enhance the complexion of the skin.
Chandana (Santalum album), Punnaga
(Callophyllum innophyllum), Padmaka (Prunus
cerrasoides), Usheera (Andrpogon muricatus),
Yashti Madhu (Glycyrrizzha glabra), Manjishta
(Rubia cordifolia), Sariva (Hemedismus indicus),
Ksheeravidari (Ipomeadigitata), Shwethadurva
(Cynodon dactylon), Shyamadurva (Cynodon
linearis), Shavara lodhra (Symplocus racemosa),
Palasha (Butea monosperma), Ashoka (Saraca
indica), Shallaki (Boswelia serrata) and Shala
(Shorea robusta) are come under the group[5].
Raktaprasadaka (Blood Detoxifier):
Anantamoola (Hemedismus indicus), Ushava,
Chopchini (Smilax aspera), Mundi (Spaeranthus
indicus), Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia), Guduchi
(Tinspora cordifolia), Kirata (Swertia chirata)
and Nimba (Azadirachta indica) help in
detoxification of blood [6-7].
Vishaghna (Detoxifiers): The group of drugs
which removes the body toxins. Haridra
(Curcuma longa), Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia),
Rasna (Pluchea lanceolata), Sukshma ela
(Elettaria cardamomum), Trivrut (Ipomoea
turpethum), Chandana (Santalum album),
Nirmali (Strychnous potatarum), Shirisha
(Albizzia lebbeck), Nirgundi (Vitex Negundo)and
Shleshmataka (Cordia waillici) belong to this
group[8].
Vayasthapana (Anti-aging): The group of drugs
which rejuvenate and maintains the metabolism
of the body. Guduchi (Tinospora cordifoilia),
Haritaki (Terminalia chebula), Amalaki (Embica
officinalis), Rasna (Pluchea lanceolata),
Shwetha Aparajita (Clitorea ternatea), Jeevanti
(Leptidenia reticulate),Shathavari (Asaragus
recemosus), Mandukaparni (Centella asiatica),
71
Shalaparni (Desmodium gangeticum) and
Punarnava (Boerrhavia diffusa) belong to this
group[8].
Vranaropana (Healing Promoters): The group
of drugs which promotes the healing process in
the body. Manjishta (Rubia cordifolia,
Rasanjana (preparation of Berberis aristataa),
Daruharidra (Berberis aristataa), Mocharasa
(Salmalia malabarica), Dhataki (Woodfordia
fruticosa), Madhuka (Madhuca indica), Lodhra
(Symplocus racemosa) and Sariva (Hemedismus
indicus) belong to this group[9].
Kushtaghna (Anti-dermatophytic): The group
of drugs which cure the different skin diseases.
Khadira (Acacia catechu), Haritaki (Terminalia
belerica), Salasara (Veteria indica), Sarja
(Shorea robusta), Amalaki (Embica officinais),
Haridra (Curcuma longa ), Bhallataka
(Semecarpus anacardium), Asana (Terminalia
tomentosa ), Dhava (Anogeissus latifoia),
PutiKaranja (Caesalpinia crista), Agaru
(Aquiillaria agallocha), Peetachandana
(Santaum album), Saptaparna (Alstonia
schoaris), Aragvadha (Cassia fistula), Karaveera
(Nerium indicum) and Vidanga (Embeia ribes)
are the drugs known under the group[10].
Kandughna (Anti-pruritic): Chandana
(Santaum album), Usheer a(Andropogon
muricatus), Aragwadha (Withania somnifera),
Karanja (Pongammia pinnata), Nimbha
(Azadirachta indica), Kutaja (Wrightia
tinctoria), Sarshapa (Brassica campestris),
Yashtimadhu (Glycirrhiza glabra), Daruharidra
(Berberis aristata) and Musta (Cyperus
rotundus).These drugs control the pruritoceptives
therein reducing the sensation of itching[10].
Krimighna (Anti-bacterial): These drugs are
meant to kill or slow down the growth of bacteria
when used both internally & externally.
Shobhanjana (Moringa oleifera), Maricha (Piper
nigrum), Gandeera (Amaranthus viridis),
Kebuka (Costus speciosus), Vidanga (Embelia
ribes), Nirgundi (Vitex negundo), Kinihi (Abizia
procera), Gokshura (Tribulus terrestris) and
Vrishaparni (Ipomea reniformis)[10]
Roma shatana (Hair Remover): Kshara
(alkaline substances), Haridra (Curcumalonga),
Haratala (Arsenic tri sulphide), Hingu (Ferula
narthex), Takra (Butter-milk) and Samudra
lavana (Common salt) [11].
Yuvanapidaka-har (Anti-acne): Dhanyaka
(Criandrum sativum), Vacha (Acorus calamus),
Lodhra, (Sympocus reacemosus), Saindhava
(Potassium salt), Sarshapa (Brassica nigra),
Vata (Ficus bengalensis, Narikel (Cocus
72
nucifera), and Lodhra (Symplococus racemosus)
(SS.Ci.20.37)[12].
Nyaccha & Vyanga (Anti-black Spots &
Moles): Bala (Sida cordifolia), Atibala (Sida
rhombifolium), Haridra lepa, Agaru Krishna
chandana lepa, Kumkumadi lepa (SS.Ci.20.33-
36) [12].
Arunshika-har (Anti-dandruff): Neem
(Azadirachta indica), Haridra (Curcuma longa),
Patol (Trichosanthes dioica), Madhuyashthi
(Glycyrrhiza glabra), Nilotpal (Nymphaea
nouchali), Eranda (Ricinus communis) and
Bhringraj (Eclipta alba) (SS.Ci.20.27-29) [12].
Discussion
Ayurvedic principles of Tridosh (living
entities), Mansik Dosha (psychological entities),
Ahara (food) and Achara (lifestyle) play a very
important role in keeping the psycho-
physiological wellbeing. The principles of
Dinacharya (daily regimen), Rutucharya
(seasonal regimen) and Achara Rasayana
(behavioural practices) are also very essential for
healthy living. These all are also determining
factors for the internal and external beauty.
Healthy body and mind represent the beauty of
any individual. Rejuvenative drugs restore the
bodily normal functions and correct the
nutritional abnormalities. These drugs lead to
rejuvenate body and skin itself. Apart from these
factors certain conditions which affect the
appearance of the skin which alters the beauty of
individual. Varnya drugs uses in the condition of
complexion of the skin. It restores the normal
colors of the skin. Visaghna drugs uses for the
detoxification of the skin from outside and inner
ones. Vrana ropana drugs heal the abrupt skin
conditions. Kusthaghna drugs depict the
remedies for all types of skin disorders.
Kandughna relieves the pruritic conditions.
Krimighna drugs are antibacterial and used for
skin infections. Raktaprasadan drugs specially
detoxify the blood which leads to removal of all
the toxins and free radicals. Yuvanpidika,
Arunsika and Nyaccha-Vyanga are the
commonest skin ailment occurs in the society,
which specially affect the beauty of individual.
Their remedies are also prescribed in the
Ayurveda in the form of Lepa, Udvartana and
Abhyanga.
Conclusion
Cosmetology, the science has been
practiced since time immemorial for
beautification in the discrete manner in
Indian Journal of Agriculture and Allied Sciences
Ayurvedic texts. The recent interest of
population in herbal cosmetics has been
stimulated by the decline of faith in modern
cosmetics and increased acceptance as well as
availability of herbal cosmetics. The recent
trends towards the cosmeceuticals with their
therapeutic potential are continuously increasing
and several newer herbs are incorporating in the
cosmetic industry. Judicious use of Ayurvedic
herbs for cosmetic benefits has been certainly
provides a solution to various skin pathology.
References
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Varanasi.
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(Eds.). (2005). Charak Samhita of Agnivesha.
Vidyotini Hindi commentary (CS.Vi.8.103-104),
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(Eds.). (2005). Charak Samhita of Agnivesha.
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