International Journal of Trend in Scientific Research and Development (IJTSRD)

Volume 4 Issue 1, December 2019 Available Online: www.ijtsrd.com e-ISSN: 2456 – 6470

Herbal Cosmetics for Skin and Hair Care in Ayurveda

Dr. Sanjay Kholiya1, Dr. Jyoti Gangwal2, Dr. Rajendra Prasad Sharma3
1,2PG
Scholar, 3Associate Professor,
1,3Department of Ras Shastra & Bhaishajya Kalpana, 2Department of Rachana Sharir,

1,2,3National Institute of Ayurveda, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India

ABSTRACT How to cite this paper: Dr. Sanjay Kholiya

The cosmetics are the beneficial compound used widely all over the world for | Dr. Jyoti Gangwal | Dr. Rajendra Prasad
balancing and improving normal appearance of face and various parts of body Sharma "Herbal Cosmetics for Skin and
e.g. hand, mouth, finger, hair, eye etc. It includes powders, creams, face pack, Hair Care in Ayurveda" Published in
moisturizers, lotions, shampoo, hair oil, hair conditioners, nail polish, etc. Soft, International Journal
shinning, healthy skin and hair certainly count for a handsome man or of Trend in Scientific
beautiful woman. In environment there are many reason for damage to skin Research and
like- microorganisms, chemical toxins, chemicals. Cosmetics alone are not Development (ijtsrd),
sufficient to take care of skin and body parts, it require combination of active ISSN: 2456-6470,
ingredients to check the damage and ageing of the skin. Herbal cosmetics are Volume-4 | Issue-1,
now appeared as the suitable solution to the current problem. Personal care December 2019, IJTSRD29793
industry is more concentrated now on herbal cosmetics as it is a fast growing pp.1001-1005, URL:
segment with a huge scope of many development in coming years. Herbal www.ijtsrd.com/papers/ijtsrd29793.pdf
cosmetics are the formulations, which represent cosmetics associated with
active bio-ingredients, neutraceuticals or pharmaceuticals. Normally, Copyright © 2019 by author(s) and
botanicals provide different antioxidants, vitamins, various oils, hydrocolloids, International Journal of Trend in Scientific
essential oils, proteins, terpenoids and other bioactive molecules. Our Research and Development Journal. This
traditional knowledge about the use of plant wealth as mentioned in is an Open Access article distributed
Ayurveda, Unani, Siddha and Tibetan system of medicine, is of great help to under the terms of
identify the phytochemicals. the Creative
Commons Attribution
KEYWORDS: Herbal cosmetics, Skin care, Hair care, Natural colors, Natural dyes License (CC BY 4.0)
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by
/4.0)
INRODUCTION
Today the world is turn towards the use of herbal products beautifying, cleansing, changing the look. Increases normal
and to accept more natural way of life. People like natural appearance of face and other body parts through less chance
food, herbal medicines and natural curing practices for of skin defects is the main aim of cosmetics. It is used to
healthy life. The usage of herbal products has been rised to improve or maintain the status of skin and hair. Cosmetic
many folds in personal care system and there is a vast helps men and women to look more beautiful, impressive
demand for the herbal cosmetics. All this occured due to the and smart. The other aims of cosmetic are Social,
more and more use of synthetic based products, synthetic Psychological and Clinical.
chemicals, chemical dyes and their derived products. These
cause human health problems with several side-effects and Psychological effect- Provides mental satisfaction to user. In
many diseases. It also disturbed our eco-system and caused middle age or young age grey hair is common problem.
environmental pollution. The beauty of skin and hairs These kinds of problems can be solved by use hair dyes and
fundamentally depends on individual's health, habits, diet, conditioners. beauty parlours, hair dresser's saloons is
job routine, environmental conditions and maintenance. evidence of Social effect of cosmetics. These saloons also
Excessive heat exposure, in summer dehydrates the skin and seen in backward or rural areas now a days. Skin wrinkling,
increases melanin content which causes freckles, blemishes, pre-mature ageing, skin cracking, sun burn, effects of wind
wrinkles, sunburns and pigmentation. In winters, extreme burn etc. these types of problems normally treat by
cold also damage skin as cuts, maceration, cracks and cosmetics.
infection are normally seen. Skin disease is common of all
age groups because of the infection of a variety of Preparations of Cosmetic-
microorganism, chemical agents and biological toxin present The cosmetics formulations are mainly divided into three
in the atmosphere and also due to physical factors, categories:-
malnutrition and environmental pollution. Similar problems 1. Solid
occur with hairs as hair fall and their greying at early age 2. Semi solid
becomes a normal feature. 3. Liquids

Cosmetics
Talcum powders, Face powders, face packs, masks etc.

It’s not easy to define the term "cosmetic” as its liberty and are included in solid category.
application to the care of various body parts is very large.
Creams, liniments, ointments, wax base creams etc. are
Cosmetics are proposed to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled for included in semi-solid category.

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Lotions, hair oil, moisturizers, conditioners, cleansing
milk, shampoos, mouthwashes, liniments, deodorants,
sprays, etc. are included in liquid category.
Herbal Cosmetics
Herbal cosmetics are the formulations, which represent
cosmetics related with active bioactive contetnts. Normally
botanicals provide different vitamins, antioxidants, various
oils, essential oils, dyes, tannins, alkaloids, carbohydrates,
proteins, terpenoids and other bioactive molecules.
Preparation of herbal cosmetics
In preparation, suitable bioactive contents or their extracts
are used along with requisite ingredients basically used for
cosmetics. It need selection of suitable emulsifying agent,
appropriate ingredient composition and modified
methodology to obtain desirable product of specified
parameters. Other parameters like organoleptic
characteristics, viscosity, pH, stability towards light and
refrigeration should also be evaluated.
Coloring ingredients
Every person has his own choice and liking for color and
nature manifests itself. Since Ancient time colors are well
recognized. Addition of colors enhances the general
appearance of products. The cosmetics products are
generally colored by synthetic or natural coloring agents but
in herbal-based cosmetics, use natural coloring agents
because of their non-toxic, safe and eco-friendly
characteristics.

Table 1: Botanicals used for skin care and hair care-

S.
Botanical/Common name Family Distribution Uses
No.
Adhatoda vasica Nees Fresh leaves juice/extract- skin affection and
1. Acanthaceae Throughout India
(Vasaca); control of scabies
Ailanthus excelsa Roxb. Leaves extract-skin eruption and useful in
2. Simaroubaceae Throughout India
(Maharukh), skin creams and lotions.
Garlic oil -
1. source of sulphur
Allium sativum Linn.
3. Alliaceae Throughout India 2. useful to control sores, pimples and
(Garlic), -
acne.
3. used in skin lotions and creams.
1.Leaves juice, pulp or extracted material -
applied on skin for smoothness, healing,
4. Aloe vera Linn. (Ghikanwar), Liliaceae Indian continent controlling skin burn, sun burn and injury.
2.Used in moisturizers, lotions, creams, hair
tonic, shaving creams, etc.
Andropogon muricatus Retz. Powdered root paste with red sandal wood -
5. Poaceae Throughout India
(Khas), used to cure irritated skin and allergies.
1.Bark, seed, fruits and leaves- contain
Azadirachta indica A. Juss.
Indian warmer diterpenes
6. (Neem),; Meliaceae
parts 2.antiseptic agent; 3.useful in curing
wounds, skin deseases, leprosy, ulcers etc.
Buchanania lanzan Spreng. Throughout India Kernel powder is useful in skin ointments to
7. Anacardiaceae;
(Chironnji), (up to 1000 m) cure itch, blemishes, rashes and spots.
Butea frondosa Koenig ex Throughout India 1.Leaves extract - useful in pimples
8. Fabaceae;
Roxb. (Dhak), (up to 1200 m).- 2. seed extract- fungal infection and bruises.
1.Milky juice of unripe fruit - for facial and
Carica papaya Linn. face cream
9. Caricaceae; Throughout India
(Papaya), 2.fruit pulp -make skin soft and remove
blemishes.
Cassia tora Linn. (Panwar),; Leaves and seed extract- useful for skin
10. Caesalpiniaceae Throughout India
- infection, ringworm, eruption, etc.
1.Potential source of vitamin C
Citrus limon (Linn.) Burm.f. Throughout 2. oil - reduce skin itching and skin
11. Rutaceae;
(Nimbu), India- nourishment
3. pulp - useful as a facial ingredients.
Cocos nucifera Linn.
Hot damp region Coconut oil-useful for skin itching and
12. (Nariyal), Arecaceae
of India rashes.
Cucumis sativus Linn. Water extract of fruits and seeds protect
13. Cucurbitaceae; Throughout India
(Khira), - skin from sunburn.
1.Rhizome powder- possesses anti-
Curcuma longa Linn. (Haldi), Throughout inflammat1ory and anti-oxidant properties;
14. Zingiberaceae;
India- 2.used extensively in facial, face creams and
ointments.
Cuscuta reflexa Roxb. (Akash Plant extract is useful to control dermatitis,
15. Convolvulaceae Throughout India
bel), itching and ringworm.

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North-West Seed extract - used for beautification and
16. Cydonia oblonga Mill. (Bile) Rosaceae
Himalayas protection of skin.
Eclipta alba (Linn.) Hassk.
Paste of herb -useful to control skin diseases
17. (Bhringraj), Asteraceae; Throughout India
and eczema
.Euphorbia thymifolia Linn. Plant extract -useful to control ringworm
18. Euphorbiaceae; Throughout India
(Choti dhudhi), and skin infections.
1. Essential oil extracted from flowers- used
in skin creams and lotions to control skin
Jasminum grandiflorum
19. Oleaceae; Throughout India diseases.
Linn. (Chameli),
2. Essential oil extracted from plant-used in
creams for the protection from sunburn.
Juniperus communis Linn. Himalaya region Whole plant extract-useful in skin creams to
20. Cupressaceae
(Aaraar),; (1700-4200 m)- control skin rejuvenation.
Lavandula vera DC. syn. L. Jammu &
21. Lamiaceae; Essential oil -used in skin anti-acne cream.
officinalis Chaix (Lavender), Kashmir-
Juice of leaves - applied to control scabies,
Leucas aspera Spreng. (Hul
22. Lamiaceae Throughout India skin psoriasis, chronic skin, skin eruption
Khusa),; -.
and eczema
Mallotus philippensis Muell.- Throughout Flower powder - useful to control scabies,
23. Euphorbiaceae;
Arg. (Kamala), India- ringworm, leprous eruption, etc.
Mangifera indica Linn. Throughout Plant extract possesses anti-oxidant
24. Anacardiaceae;
(Aam), India- properties.
Matricaria chamomilla Linn.
25. Asteraceae; Himalayan hills Leaves extract - applied in anti-acne cream.
(Babuna), -
Mimosa pudica Linn. Herb extract -applied in skin creams and
26. Mimosaceae; Throughout India
(Lajwanti), lotions to control itching.
Momordica charantia Linn. Plant extract possesses antioxidant
27. Cucurbitaceae; Throughout India
(Karela), - properties.
Ocimum sanctum Linn. and Leaves extract -useful to control skin
28. Lamiaceae, Throughout India
other Ocimum spp. (Tulsi), - infection and rejuvenation.
Phyllanthus emblica Linn. Tropical and
Fruit extract possesses anti-oxidant
29. syn. Emblica officinalis Euphorbiaceae; subtropical
properties.
Gaertn., (Amla), regions of India
Pistia stratiotes Linn. (Water Leaves extract - applied to control chronic
30. Araceae throughout India
lettuce), - skin disorders.
Himalayan Kernel extract - used in sun creams and
.Prunus amygdalus Batsch
31. Rosaceae; regions (2300 other formulations to make the skin fair and
(Badam),
meters) beautification creams.
Psoralea corylifolia Linn. Seeds extract possesses potential to control
32. Fabaceae; Throughout India
(Babchi), - skin diseases.
Essential oil extracted from flowers - used in
Rosa damascena Mill. (Lal skin creams, lotions and ointment for
33. Rosaceae; Throughout India
gulab), beautification, smoothness and protection
from sunburns.
1.Paste of hardwood- used in face pack;
essential oil used in preparation of creams,
.Santalum album Linn. Dry regions of
34. Santalaceae; ointments and lotions for skin beautification
(Chandan), India-
and protection from sunburn;
2. possesses anti-oxidant properties.
Saussurea lappa C.B. Clarke Roots extract -used in ointments for chronic
35. Asteraceae; Himalayan hills
(Kuth), skin diseases.
Seed extract -useful for skin protection and
36. Sesamum indicum Linn. (Til), Pedaliaceae; Throughout India
rejuvenation.
Swertia chirayita (Roxb. ex Bark powder extract controls skin affections;
37. Gentianaceae; Himalayas
Flem.) Karst. (Cheretta), possesses antioxidant properties.
Whole plant extract - used in skin cleansing
Withania somnifera Dunal Drier parts of
38. Solanaceae; formulations and possesses antioxidant
(Aswagandha), Himalayas
properties.
Throughout Stigma extract - used in creams and lotions
39. Zea mays Linn. (Makka),; Poaceae
India- for skin rejuvenation
Acacia concinna DC. Tropical forest of Pods extract - used as hair cleanser and for
40 Mimosaceae;
(Shikakai), India - control of dandruff.

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1.Flowers extract - used in hair oil as a tonic
Arnica montana Linn. Cultivated
41 Asteraceae; material.
(Arnica), sparingly in India
2. It stimulates the hair follicles.
Extract of leaves - used as anti-dandruff.
42 Betula pendula (Birch), Betulaceae; North West India
Seed oil - used as hair oil and useful for hair
43 Brassica spp. (Mustard), - Brassicaceae; Throughout India
nourishment.
Calendula officinalis Linn.- Cultivated in Flowers extract -used in hair creams for
44 Asteraceae;
(Marigold), India smoothening effect.
Carthamus tinctorius Linn. Alcoholic extract - used in hair tonics.
45 Asteraceae; Indian plains-
(Safflower),
Centella asiatica (Linn.) Whole plant extract - used for the growth
46 Apiaceae; Throughout India
Urban (Mandukaparni), and maintenance of hairs
Kernel oil is a well-established hair oil,
Cocos nucifera Linn. Coastal parts of which is used as such or as a basic raw
47 Arecaceae;
(Nariyal), - India material for
preparing hair oils and tonics
Eclipta alba (Linn.) Hassk. Himalayas Whole plant extract -useful for hair's nourish
48 Asteraceae;
(Bhangra), regions ment and dyeing.
Ficus racemosa Linn. Aerial root powder is mixed with coconut oil
50. Moraceae; Throughout India
(Bargad), for massage to check falling hairs.
Himalayas
Leaves and hull of fruits - used for hair
51. Juglans regia Linn. (Akroot), Juglandaceae; (temperate
dyeing.
region)
Lawsonia inermis Linn. Leaves paste - used for hair dyeing and
52. Lythraceae; Throughout India
(Henna), nourishment
Nardostachys jatamansi DC. Alpine Himalayas Extract of rhizome -used in hair tonics for
53. Valerianaceae;
(Jatamansi), - their growth.
Phyllanthus emblica Linn. Fruit extract - used in oils for promotion of
54. Euphorbiaceae; Throughout India
(Amla), hair growth.
Salvia officinalis Linn. Cultivated in
55. Lamiaceae; Aqueous extract -used as hair conditioner.
(Sage), gardens
Cultivated Extract of fruit coat works as
Sapindus mukorossi Gaertn.
56. Sapindaceae; in India natural shampoo: used in herbal shampoo as
(Ritha),
hair cleanser.
Saussurea lappa C.B. Clarke
57. Asteraceae; Himalayas Roots extract - used in hair dyeing
(Kuth),
Seed oil is one of the major source of hair
Warmer regions
58. Sesamum indicum Linn. (Til), Pedaliaceae; oils, which is used as such or a base for
of India
preparing specific hair oils.
Terminalia bellirica Roxb. Throughout Seed extract and oil is good for hair dyeing
59. Combretaceae;
(Behera), India- preparation.
Terminalia chebula Retz. Throughout
60. Combretaceae; Seed extract -used in hair care formulations.
(Harra), India-
Thymus serpyllum Willd. Whole herb extract-useful for preparing hair
61. Lamiaceae; Himalayas-
(Banajwain), tonics.
Trigonella foenum-graecum
62. Fabaceae; Throughout India Seed extract - used as hair cleanser.
Linn. (Fenugreek),

Natural colors and dyes:-

Natural color are obtained from following categories:-
1. Vegetable Origin
2. Animal Origin
3. Mineral Origin

1. Vegetable Origin :

From root, bark, stem, wood, flower, leaf and seed of plants.
Indigo, kachnar, catechu, tesu, lal kher, turmeric, henna, cherry, saffron etc.
2. Animal Origin:
1. By dye yielding insects
2. Lac, cochineal, kermes, etc.
3. Mineral Origin:

Various inorganic metallic salts and metal oxide.
Natural dyes - See table no.3

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Table3: Classified commercial dyes
Chemical group Prominent example Color
1. Indigoids Indigo, tyrian purple Blue-pink
Madder (Alizarin)
2.Anthraquinones Red class of dyes
Lac Kermes,Cochineal
3.Alpha-naphthaquinone Henna (Lawsone) Orange
Weld (Reseda luteola Linn.) Wood of pines, Dahlia, Sunflower,
Natural Yellow
4.Flavones Marigold, Palas, Kamala, Chrysanthemum,
class of dyes
Tea, etc.
Grape skin extract, Red Orange
5.Anthocyanines
Bignonia chica Humb. & Bonpl.
6. Betalains Beet-root Red to blue-red
Annatto (Bixa orellana Linn.) Yellow-orange
7.Carotenoids Carrots Orange
Saffron Jafran (yellow)
8.Diferuloyl- methane Curcumin from turmeric Yellow
9. Alkaloids Berberine Yellow
Leaves of lucerne, nettles, mulberry, green plants, pasture
10.Chlorophyll Green
grasses, algae, etc.

Conclusion [7] Kapoor VP, 2002b, In Advances in legume research in

The usage of herbal cosmetics has been grow to many folds India, (Eds. RR Rao and LB Chaudhry), Bishen Singh
in personal care system and there is a huge demand for the Mahendra Pal Singh, Dehradun, 2002, pp. 211-222.
herbal cosmetics. Normally botanicals provide various
[8] Kapoor VP, In: Current concept in seed biology, (Eds.
vitamins, antioxidants, essential oils, various oils, proteins,
KG Mukerji, AK Bhatnagar, SC Tripathi, M Bansal and M
hydrocolloids, terpenoids and other bioactive molecules.
Saxena), Naya Prokash, Calcutta, 1992, pp. 87-114.
There is great scope to launch various herbal cosmetics
using appropriate bioactive ingredients with suitable fatty [9] Kapoor VP, Joshi H and Chaubey M, Applications of
oil, proteins, essential oils and additives. seed gums in Pharmaceutical formulations, J Med Arom
Plant Sci, 2000, 22/4A & 23/1A, 42-44.
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