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Carburetor Repair Guide
See Figures 1 and 2 Print
The carburetor is the most complex part of the fuel system. Carburetors vary greatly in construction, but they all operate basically the same way; their job is to supply the
correct mixture of fuel and air to the engine in response to varying conditions.
Despite their complexity in operation, carburetors function because of a simple physical principle; the venturi principle. Air is drawn into the engine by the pumping action of the
pistons. As the air enters the top of the carburetor, it passes through a venturi, which is nothing more than a restriction in the throttle bore. The air speeds up as it passes through the
venturi, causing a slight drop in pressure. This pressure drop pulls fuel from the float bowl through a nozzle into the throttle bore, where it mixes with the air and forms a fine mist,
which is distributed to the cylinders through the intake manifold.
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the 4A-F carburetor air horn assembly
Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the 4A-F carburetor float bowl and throttle body assembly
There are multiple systems (air/fuel circuits) in a carburetor that make it work:
Float
Main Metering
Idle
Low-Speed
Accelerator Pump
Power
Choke system
The way these systems are arranged in the carburetor determines the carburetor's size and shape.
Carburetors all function in the same fashion; larger engines have larger carburetors to move more air and fuel, but the principle is still the same. Older units don't have as many
external linkages and controls to manage emissions and driveability, but the principle is still the same.
It's important to remember that carburetors seldom give trouble during normal operation. Other than changing the fuel and air filters and making sure the idle speed is OK at every
tune-up, there's not much maintenance you can perform on the average carburetor. Quality of fuel and presence of water in the system will affect the carburetor; dirt particles in the
fuel can clog the jets and water causes rust and corrosion. If the vehicle is to be parked or stored for a long period of time, drain the carburetor to prevent the evaporating fuel from
gumming up the system.
The carburetors used on 4A-F engines are conventional 2 bbl, downdraft types similar to domestic carburetors. The main circuits are: primary, for normal operational requirements;
secondary, to supply high speed/high load fuel needs; float, to supply fuel to the primary and secondary circuits; accelerator, to supply fuel for quick and safe acceleration; choke, for
reliable starting in cold weather; power valve, for fuel economy.
It is important to know that carburetors seldom give trouble during normal operation. Other than changing the fuel and air filters and making sure the idle speeds are correct at every
tune-up, there's not much maintenance you can perform on the average carburetor.
PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENTS
The following adjustments are to be made with the carburetor removed from the engine. Adjustments on carburetors interrelate; if you change one setting you may affect other
adjustments. Therefore, these procedures must be performed in the order presented. Read these procedures thoroughly before continuing.
Float
See Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8
It will be necessary to remove the air horn from the carburetor to gain access to the float. Follow the procedures outlined in the carburetor overhaul.
9. After adjusting the float level, remove the float, plunger, spring and needle valve.
10. Assemble the pin clip onto the needle valve.
Fig. Fig. 8: Assemble the pin clip onto the needle valve
11. Install the needle valve assembly, float and pivot pin. Assemble the carburetor following the procedures in the carburetor overhaul.
You will need the use of SST 09240-00014 and 09240-00020 or equivalent angle gauge to make any adjustments.
1. Check the full operating angle of the primary throttle valve. The angle should be 90° from horizontal plane.
2. If adjustment is necessary, bend the first throttle lever stopper.
Fig. Fig. 9: To adjust the full operating angle of the throttle valve, bend the first throttle lever stopper
3. Check the full opening of the secondary throttle valve. Standard and is 80° from horizontal plane.
Fig. Fig. 10: Check the full opening of the secondary throttle valve from horizontal plane
Kick-Up Setting
See Figures 12 and 13
You will need the use of SST 09240-00014 and 09240-00020 or equivalent angle gauge to make any adjustments.
1. With the primary throttle valve fully opened, check the clearance between the secondary throttle valve and body. the clearance should be 0.00630.0106 inch (0.16-0.27mm).
Fig. Fig. 12: Check the clearance between the secondary throttle valve and body for the kick-up setting
Fig. Fig. 13: Adjust the kick-up setting by bending the secondary throttle lever
You will need the use of SST 09240-00014 and 09240-00020 or equivalent angle gauge to make any adjustments.
1. Check the primary throttle valve opening angle when the first kick lever touches the second kick lever.
Fig. Fig. 14: You will need the use of an angle gauge to make any adjustments for the secondary touch angle
Fig. Fig. 15: To adjust the secondary touch angle, bend the first kick lever
You will need the use of SST 09240-00014 and 09240-00020 or equivalent angle gauge to make any adjustments.
1. Set the throttle shaft lever to the first step of the fast idle cam as shown in the illustration.
Fig. Fig. 16: Set the throttle shaft lever to the first step of the fast idle cam
2. With the choke valve fully closed, check the primary throttle valve angle.
3. Adjustment is done by turning the fast idle adjusting screw. Standard angle is 21° from horizontal plane.
Choke Unloader
You will need the use of SST 09240-00014 and 09240-00020 or equivalent angle gauge to make any adjustments.
1. With the primary throttle valve fully opened, check the valve angel. Standard angle is 41° from horizontal plane.
2. If adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle lever.
Choke Opener
Choke Breaker
See Figures 18, 19, 20 and 21
1. Set the fast idle cam. While holding the throttle slightly open, push the choke valve closed, and hold it closed as you release the throttle valve.
Fig. Fig. 18: While holding the throttle slightly open, push the choke valve closed, and hold it closed as you release the throttle valve
2. Fully close the choke valve and check the choke opening angle.
3. Apply vacuum to the choke breaker diaphragm (A).
Fig. Fig. 19: Apply vacuum to the diaphragm and check the choke valve angle
4. Check the choke valve angle. The standard angle is 38° from horizontal plane.
5. Adjust the angler by bending the relief lever.
6. Apply vacuum to the choke breaker diaphragms (A) and (B).
Fig. Fig. 20: Apply vacuum to the choke breaker diaphragms (A) and (B)
7. Check the choke valve angle, standard angle is 58° from horizontal plane.
8. Adjust by turning the diaphragm adjusting screw.
Fig. Fig. 21: Adjust the choke breaker by turning the diaphragm screw
Pump Stroke
See Figure 22
1. With the choke valve fully opened, check the length of the stroke.
Fig. Fig. 22: Test the pump stroke with the choke valve fully opened, check the length of the stroke
FINAL ADJUSTMENTS
To perform the final carburetor adjustments, the following conditions must be met:
The float level should be even with the correct level in the sight glass.
WARNING
Some tachometers are not compatible with this ignition system, it is recommended to confirm the capability of your unit prior to use.
Fig. Fig. 23: The float level should be even with the correct level in the sight glass
Fig. Fig. 24: Connect the tachometer to the positive terminal of the service connector at IIA distributor
Idle Speed
See Figure 25
Adjust the idle speed by turning the idle speed adjusting screw. It should be 650 rpm on M/T and 750 rpm on A/T. Leave the tachometer attached for further adjustments.
Fig. Fig. 25: Adjust the idle speed by turning the idle speed adjusting screw
Fast Idle
See Figures 26, 27 and 28
3. Disconnect the hose from the TVSV (M) port and plug the (M) port.
Fig. Fig. 27: Disconnect the hose from the TVSV (M) port and plug the port
4. This will shut off the choke opener and EGR systems.
5. Set the fast idle cam. While holding the throttle valve slightly open, pull up the fast idle cam and hold it closed as you release the throttle valve.
Fig. Fig. 28: Check that the fast idle cam is set at the first step
As stated in Engine Electrical , the Mixture Adjusting Screw (MAS) should be the very last item you try to adjust during tune-up or troubleshooting. The MAS is concealed behind a
plug; the plug cannot be removed with the carburetor on the car. If adjustment is to be done, great care must be taken during removal of the plug; clearances are very tight and damage
to the carburetor can occur.
1. Tag and disconnect all hoses and linkages attached to the carburetor.
2. Remove the carburetor.
3. Plug each carburetor vacuum port to prevent entry of metal particles.
4. Mark the center of the MAS plug with a punch. Drill a 0.256 in. (6.5mm) hole in the center of the plug.v
Fig. Fig. 29: The head of the screw is only 0.04 in. (1mm) below the plug. Drill carefully and slowly to avoid damage
WARNING
The head of the screw is only 0.04 in. (1mm) below the plug-drill carefully and slowly to avoid damage.
5. The plug may come out with the drill at this time. If not, use a small screwdriver to reach through the hole and gently turn the adjusting screw all the way in. Do NOT overtighten
the screw; just tighten it until it touches bottom.
6. Use a 0.295 in. (7.5mm) drill to force the plug off.
7. Remove the adjusting screw. Inspect the tip for any damage; remove any steel particles. If the drill has damaged the top of the screw, it must be replaced.
8. Reinstall the adjusting screw. Turn it all the way in, just touching bottom.
1
9. Once the screw has bottomed, turn it out 3 / 4 turns.
Fig. Fig. 30: Once the screw has bottomed, turn it out 31/4 turns
The method used to set the idle mixture and speed is also known as the Lean Drop Method.
CAUTION
When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles
on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant may be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
3. Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the air filter housing. Disconnect all hoses and lines leading from the air cleaner.
Fig. Fig. 31: Remove the air cleaner to access the carburetor
4. Tag and disconnect all fuel, vacuum, coolant and electrical lines or hoses leading from the carburetor.
Fig. Fig. 32: Tag and disconnect all fuel, vacuum, coolant and electrical lines or hoses
5. Disconnect the accelerator linkage from the carburetor. On cars equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the throttle cable linkage running from the transmission.
Fig. Fig. 33: Disconnect the accelerator and throttle linkages from the carburetor
7. Lift the carburetor off the engine and place it on a clean cloth on the workbench. If desired, the insulator (base gasket) may also be removed.
8. Cover the inlet area of the manifold with clean rags or a plastic bag. This will prevent the entry of dust, dirt and loose parts.
Fig. Fig. 35: Discard the base gasket and remove the insulator; do not discard the insulator
To install:
9. Remove the rags/bag, then place the insulator on the manifold, making sure it is correctly positioned.
10. Place a new gasket, insulator and base gasket on the intake manifold.
11. Install the carburetor, tighten the mounting nuts and reconnect all linkages.
12. Connect the vacuum and fuel lines and the wiring harness.
13. Install the air cleaner assembly, making sure it is correctly seated on the carburetor.
14. Refill the coolant. Connect the negative battery cable.
15. Start the engine and check for any leaks. Check the float level.
OVERHAUL
Efficient carburetion depends on careful cleaning and inspection during overhaul, since dirt, gum, water, or varnish in or on the carburetor parts are often responsible for poor
performance.
Overhaul your carburetor in a clean, dust-free area. Carefully disassemble the carburetor, referring often to the exploded views. Keep all similar and look-alike parts segregated during
disassembly and cleaning to avoid accidental interchange during assembly.
Carburetor overhaul kits are recommended for each overhaul. These kits contain all gaskets and new parts to replace those that deteriorate most rapidly. Failure to replace all parts
supplied with the kit (especially gaskets) can result in poor performance and a leaks.
The following procedure is organized so that only one group of components is worked on at a time. This will help eliminate confusion of parts or sub-assemblies on the bench. Always keep
parts in order; take great care not to lose small parts or clips.
1. To remove the air horn, unscrew the air cleaner setting bolt.
2. Remove the fuel pipe clamp, union, fuel pipe and gaskets.
Fig. Fig. 36: Separate the fuel pipe clamp from the side of the carburetor
3. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses. Inspect them for replacement.
4. Remove the pump arm pivot screw and pump arm with connecting link.
Fig. Fig. 37: Unscrew the pump arm pivot and pump arm, remove them with the connecting linkage
8. Lift the air horn with gasket from the carburetor body. Throw away the old gasket.
9. Disconnect the solenoid valve wires from the harness.
10. Diconnect the throttle position switch wire from the harness.
11. Remove the float pivot pin, float and needle valve subassembly.
Fig. Fig. 41: Remove the float pivot pin, float and needle valve subassembly from the body
16. Remove the solenoid valves from the carburetor body. Discard the O-ring.
Fig. Fig. 43: Unscrew the solenoid valve from the side of the carburetor
17. Remove the (a) stopper gasket, pump discharge weight, long spring and discharge large ball.
Fig. Fig. 44: Remove the (a) stopper gasket, pump discharge weight, long spring, discharge large ball, (b) pump damping spring, (c) plunger retainer and small ball
Fig. Fig. 45: Remove the bolts retaining the throttle positioner
19. To remove the jets and power valve, disengage the power valve, then remove the slow jet.
Fig. Fig. 47: Carefully remove the slow jet and set aside
1. Remove the nut, spring washer, TP levers, washer and spring in that order.
2. Unscrew and separate the primary and secondary passage plugs from the body.
3. Remove the primary and secondary main jets with gaskets. Discard the old gaskets.
Fig. Fig. 48: Unscrew the primary and secondary passage plugs
20. Unscrew the AAP housing and remove the spring and diaphragm.
Fig. Fig. 49: Remove the primary and secondary main jets
Fig. Fig. 50: Separate the AAP housing with the diaphragm
21. Remove the primary and secondary small venturies and gaskets. Discard the gaskets.
22. Unscrew and remove the sight glass retainer, glass and O-ring. Discard the O-ring.
Fig. Fig. 51: Unscrew and pull off the sight glass with the retainer and O-ring
23. On the fast idle cam, remove the throttle return spring and throttle back spring.
A. Remove the bolt, washer, fast idle cam, washer, arm and washer in that order for the fast idle cam subassembly.
24. To remove the secondary throttle valve diaphragm, disconnect the linkage.
25. Remove the screws retaining the throttle position switch with bracket.
26. To separate the body and flange, remove the screws and vacuum passage screw.
A. Separate the body and flange. Remove the washer from the throttle valve shaft.
B. Remove the idle mixture and idle speed adjusting screws.
27. Clean all the cast metal parts with a soft brush and carburetor solvent. Clean any carbon from around the throttle plates. Blow out all jets and passages with compressed air.
28. Inspect the following:
Fig. Fig. 52: View of the float and needle valve components
float for a broken lip or wear in the pivot pin holes (2)
Fig. Fig. 53: Ensure the power piston moves up and down smoothly
30. Check for any faulty opening and closing action of the power valve.
Fig. Fig. 54: Test the opening and closing action of the power valve
31. Test the fuel cut solenoid valves. Connect the wire leads to the battery terminals; you should feel a distinct click inside the solenoid as power is connected and disconnected at
the battery. If this click is not felt, replace the solenoid. Replace the O-ring.
Fig. Fig. 55: Connect the leads of the throttle solenoid to a battery to test for proper operation
32. Insopect the throttle position switch, connect ohmmeter probes to the switch connector and switch body.
A. With the rod not pushed in, check that there is continuity.
B. With the rod pushed in, check that there is no continuity.
33. insoect the coil housing. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminal and the coil housing. Resistance should be 17-19 ohms at 20°C. If a problem is
found, replace the coil housing.
To assemble:
Place new gaskets and O-rings throughout the carburetor assembly.
34. Place a new gasket in position on the flange; install the body and tighten the 3 screws.
35. Assmeble the carburetor body and flange.
36. Install the throttle position switch and bracket with the two screws.
37. To install the secondary throttle valve diaphragm, assemble the housing (1), diaphragm (2), spring (3) and cap (4). Install the four screws with the retainer.
Fig. Fig. 57: Place the secondary throttle valve components in this order during assembly
38. To install the fast idle cam, place the washer, fast idle cam, washer, cam with washer and bolt in place.
39. Install a new O-ring, sight glass and sight glass retainer.
40. Place the primary and secondary small venturies over the new gaskets.
41. When attaching the AAP, install the small ball, AAP outlet plug and short spring. Next install the other small ball and AAP inlet plug.
A. Secure the diaphragm, spring and AAP housing with the three retaining screws.
42. Install the jets and power valve with new gaskets. Secure the primary and secondary passage plugs. Make sure to install new gaskets.
A. Install the spring, washer, throttle levers with the spring washer and nuts. Install the slow jet and power valve.
43. Install the throttle positioner with the two bolts. connect the throttle positioner linkage.
44. Install the solenoid valves with a new gasket into the carburetor gasket.
45. Install the check balls for the acceleration as follows. Install all discharge large ball, long spring, pump discharge weight and stopper gasket.
46. On the air horn, install the valve seat over the gasket into the fuel inlet.
47. Measure and adjust the float level by following the procedures outlined earlier in this section.
48. Install the power piston spring and piston into its bore and install the retainer.
49. Install the acceleration pump plunger and its boot.
50. Place a new gasket onto the air horn.
51. Install the needle valve assembly, the float and the pivot pin. Insert the float lip between the plunger and the clip when installing the float.
52. Install the solenoid valves with new gaskets and O-rings into the body of the carburetor.
53. Assemble the air horn and body. Install the eight screws, paying particular attention to the various brackets, wire clamps and steel number plate. Tighten the screws evenly, in
steps, using a criss-cross pattern.
54. Install the accelerator pump arm. Install the pump arm to the air horn with the pump plunger hole and lever aligned.
55. Connect the choke link and the pump connecting link.
56. Install the fuel pipe and union.
57. With the carburetor still on the bench, move the various linkages by hand, checking for smooth operation. Follow the adjustment procedures outlined earlier.
58. Reinstall the carburetor on the intake manifold, following the procedure outlined earlier.
59. Start the engine and allow it to warm up normally. During this time, pay careful attention to the high idle speed, the operation of the choke and its controls and the idle quality. If
you worked carefully and accurately, and performed the bench set-up properly, the carburetor should need very little adjustment after reinstallation.
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