Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Bucharest in Your Pocket
Bucharest in Your Pocket
Bucharest
April - May 2015
Old Town
A complete guide
guide to
Bucharest’s liveliest area
Essential Bucharest
Everything you always
wanted to know about
the Romanian capital
but were afraid to ask
inyourpocket.com
N°94 - 15.00 lei
Contents
E S S E N T I A L
Arriving & Getting Around 6
CITY GUI DES
Children’s Bucharest 15
ONE OF THE BEST Restaurants 16
The tastiest
tastie st places in the city to eat
Nightlife 34
The city ’s best pubs and clubs
Sightseeing 41
The UK newspaper The Independent recently published
a list of the best 50 travel websites on the internet: in- Don’t leave Bucharest without seeing the essentials
yourpocket.com was
yourpocket.com was the third name on that list:
Old Town 50
“Entertaining and honest (at times devastatingly so),
the In Your Pocket city
city guides make their rivals seem Where Bucharest
Bucharest goes to party
part y
tame by comparison. More than 100 European cities
have been given the In Your Pocket treatment, and Shopping 65
all the key content from the print editions has been Souvenirs, local designers and local wine
collated on this well-organised and userfriendly web-
site. It also includes a series of YouTube vi
vignettes.
gnettes.”” Hotels 68
Directory 75
Maps 78-81
Street register 82
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BUCHAREST TAXIS
M1 branch to the Gara de Nord , are likely to be of any use to Bucharest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are
visitors. In our listings, all venues which are within walking now complete, and journey times are back to something
distance of a metro station carry the M symbol. approaching 1989 levels: around two hours and 30 mins
to Brasov, just under two hours to Constanta. Should you
METRO TICKETS Tickets for the Bucharest metro are have to take a train, always try to get an InterCity (IC) or
cheap: they cost either 5 lei (valid for two trips; doua ca- InterRegio ( IR) as they are the fastest and usually have the
latorii ) or 20 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii ) and can be bought most modern rolling stock. Regio (R-) trains are slow and
from any metro station. You can also buy tickets valid for often use much older rolling stock. You will also see trains
one day (abonament de o zi ),), costing 8 lei. The metro runs designated as ICN : these are InterCity trains which stop at
from around 05:00 to 23:00. more stations than usual. Prices on all types of train are
relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity adult single
TRAMS, BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES �RATB� Most main from Bucharest to Brasov costs 90.50 lei. To buy train tick-
roads in the city centre benefit from three or four different ets visit either the station, a CFR agency or buy online at
transport routes. Many buses are overcrowded, however,
however, and cfrcalatori.ro. (Note that if buying online you need to do so
travelling on them can often be a less than pleasant expe- at least 24 hours in advance). Tickets cannot be purchased
rience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams run from very early in on board CFR trains, though you can try bribing the guard.
the morning (around 04:30) to around 23:00 (earlier at week- Many locals do this habitually. On the privately run Hype-
ends), after which the extensive night bus network takes rion train, however. which departs Bucharest for Brasov at
over.. All night buses depart from Piata Unirii .
over 09:00 each morning, you can buy tickets on board. There
is also free Wifi and a coffee machine: a refreshing change
RATB TICKETS To use a bus, trolleybus
trolleybus or tram you will to CFR. Tickets cost just 25 lei. There is, alas, just the one
need to buy an Activ Card before climbing aboard. These private train per day at the moment, although more may
cards cost 3.70 lei, and can be bought from the little kiosks follow soon. For more info, see thet he website softrans.ro. The
next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit full Romanian train timetable is online at cfrcalatori.ro.
(minimum 5 lei) and are reusable. The card is then debited
each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located AGENTIA DE VOIAJ CFR CFR’s advance booking offices.
on buses, trams and trolleybuses. One trip costs 1.30 lei. On QA-4, Calea Grivitei 139, M Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021
all forms of public transport in Bucharest children under the 313
313 26 42, www.cfr.ro
w ww.cfr.ro.. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
age of seven travel free. After
After that they need a full-price ticket.
CAR RENTAL IN BUCHAREST
TRAINS AVIS A delivery and collection service is available free
Given that Romania‘s roads are terrible, it‘s comforting to of charge within the city limits; the service is on request,
know that the country‘s railways are equally crap. Hav- and it depends on the availability of the Avis rental office.
ing said that, many long years of upgrade work on the QB-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN
LEFT LUGGAGE
Gara de Nord offers
offers left luggage facilities, but no lockers. You
will find the left luggage counter opposite the Wasteels of-
fice. The charge is 5 lei per small bag per 24 hours, 9 lei for a
bigger bag. You will need ID.
MONEY
Romania’s currency is the leu (plural lei ),), divided into 100
bani. Leu notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50,
10, 5 and 1. There are also 50, 10, 5 and 1bani coins.
coins. €1 is cur-
rently worth 4.44 lei. The best place to get your hands on lei
is at an ATM. If you have to change cash, do it inside a bank.
Credit and debit cards (MasterCard and and Visa) are accepted
almost everywhere. American Express cards are less widely
accepted, but can usually be used in Bancpost ATMs.
ATMs.
A BRIEF
BRIEF HISTO
HISTOR
RY OF BUCH
BUCHARES
AREST
T Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Russian occupa-
tion. Fortunately, the general the Russians appointed to
Bucharest is a relatively new city: mention of it is not made govern Bucharest, Pavel Kiseleff, was an enlightened man
until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the Impaler), who during his 14 years in charge of the city (1829-1843)
ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city are therefore oversaw sweeping changes.
unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd, Bucur, founded
the city, but a more likely candidate is Radu Voda (also In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada
known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wallachia from c. 1290- Smardan, Wallachia’s nascent parliament elected Alexan-
1300. dru Ioan Cuza as the principality’s new ruler. Given that
the Moldavian parliament had elected the same man to
It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any real be their leader a few days before, the vote at the Concordia
size, when it became the preferred site of the Wallachian in effect created the first state of Romania. Bucharest grew
court. This was based in what is today known as the Old - and flourished - during the reign of Carol I (1866-1914),
Town,
T own, around the Curtea Veche.
Veche. The city was sacke
sacked
d for Romania’s first king. Electricity
Electr icity was introduced in 1882, and
the first time in 1476 by the Moldavian ruler Stephen the the city hosted a grand exhibition, Romania in the World ,
Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the Turks in 1554. in 1906. The Carol Park in southern Bucharest was built to
During Mihai Bravu’s uprising against the Turks in 1594, host the fair.
Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting. It was
not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei Basarab in During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of Europe’s
the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and the princely most dynamic, and architecturally avant-garde cities. Large
court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the Transylvanians) numbers of art deco buildings were constructed around
Bucharest suffered plague and famine for much of the rest the city. Bucharest was heavily bombed during the latter
of the 1600s. part of World War II, but in comparison with much of Eu-
rope, the city was relatively unscathed. The communist au-
It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Constantin thorities installed by the Soviet Union at the end of the war
Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucharest’s fortunes. therefore initially made their mark not by rebuilding the city
Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with the Hapsburgs and but by greatly extending it. The population doubled from
Russians - keeping the Turks at bay - while overseeing a 900,000 at the end of World War II to 1.8 million in 1980.
cultural renaissance at home. The Turks finally got the bet-
ter of Brancoveanu in 1714: ordered to Constantinople to In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the city’s history killed
account for himself he was beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III. more than 1,500 people. Many buildings were destroyed
No longer trusting local Wallachian princes to serve their in- or damaged beyond repair, and Romania’s leader Nicolae
terests, the Turks instead appointed a long line of Greek ad- Ceausescu took the opportunity to remodel the city in his
ministrators to rule the principality. Known as the Phanari- own vision. By 1989 almost a fifth of Bucharest had been
ots (they came from the Greek district of Constantinople, destroyed to make way for the new Centru Civic . Bucharest
Phanar ) they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During was the scene of the heaviest fighting during the Roma-
this time the city grew in size and importance,
impor tance, despite regu- nian Revolution of 1989, most of which centred on Piata
lar disasters: there were major earthquakes in 1802, 1804 Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR building and Otopeni
and 1812, while plague returned in 1813-14, during which Airport. Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to
as many as 40,000 people died. grow,, although much of that growth has been outside the
grow
city limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked
While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of Adri- in 2000, at 2.3 million: it is officially now down to 1.9 million
anople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-9 left (2011 census).
You can find our full Children’s Bucharest listings online at:
beta.inyourpocket.com/bucharest/features
HANU’ BERARILOR CASA ELENA LUPESCU VATRA RESTAURANT We have been eating here for
Offering much the same (such as great pork knuckle) as years and we can’t recommend the place highly enough.
the Hanul Berarilor closer
closer to the city centre this place (run You really will have go a long way to find better value Ro-
by the same people) is located in a house that was once manian food than this. A brilliant, well-priced restaurant
close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park, expect some more refined, slow food options. Famously good
big portions of tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific mici cocktails, and more televisions showing sport than you
and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with. QB-5, could ever hope for. Find it in the Marriott : up the stairs as
Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 you go in and to your right.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie
83 75/(+4) 0721 20 08 00, www.vatra.ro. Open 12:00 - 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021
24:00. €€. PLSW 403 19 17, www.championsrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 -
24:00. €€€. PTLSW
AMERICAN & BURGERS HARD ROCK CAFE One of the largest Hard Rocks in Eu-
BUFFALO BAZ Seriously good burgers of a size just rope, you can’t go wrong here, whatever time of day you
about unsurpassed anywhere else in the city. Not the big- visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well
gest place in the world you might have to wait for a seat at looked after, and have their own menu), dinner with the
busy times, but wait you should: the quality of the burgers crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your
is outstanding and while far from cheap, for what you get mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a
you are paying relatively little. Good choice of side dishes cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as
too (the fries are way above average) and the noodles are they should be, and the service comes from smiley wait-
well worth trying. For dessert, the cheesecake awaits (if exper t bar staff. We love it. Let’s rock.QA-2, Sos.
resses and expert
they have any left: it goes fast). Oh, and bring the kids: Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/
they will love the place.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 4747,, tel. (+4) bucharest. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
0736 36 83 35. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTLESW
Closed Sun. €€. PLSW
NEW
CHAMPIONS Still serving one of the very best burgers in VIVO Burgers - big, tasty ones - and much more besides.
Bucharest (you can choose one or design your own from We tried the Game of Dijons burger, a right monster packed
an endless choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by any- with all sorts of treats, from parmesan and cheddar to
one we’ve ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact, truffle oil and a seriously good mustard sauce. You will do
now we think of it, the portions of everything here are well to finish it. There are also fine ribs, chunky soups and
enormous: even the children’s servings are very healthy even salads. Desserts as immense as everything else, and
indeed. Besides the burgers you will find a great selection the only disappointment were the fries:
frie s: not the best in the
of American pub food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even city. Worth going though, for the burgers alone, if you can
BRITISH
THE TRAFALGAR PUB Popular with all sorts of ex-
pats who have a regular rendezvous here, this place is a
pub and bistro in one, where you can get a decent meal
for little money while enjoying usually decent company.
The menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend
both the beef and chicken pies - but best of all we like
the ciorba de vacuta - one of the best in the city. There
is both Guinness and Kilkenny on draught: both at a de-
cent price. You really can’t go wrong. Get there now.QC-4,
Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel. (+4) 021 211 31 51, www.
trafalgarpub.eu. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
01:00. €€€. PLVESW
EMBASSY
Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central and original Em-
bassy (there are a couple of spin-offs in town) has been
around a few years now, and in this city longevity alone is
a sign of how good it is. Serving a good gourmet burger
and much else besides (including some great cocktails)
it is the kind of place that grows on you as the evening
wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until very late.
We usually do.QC-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, M Piata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.embassy-club.ro. Open
11:00 - 03:00. €€€. PSW
GERMAN
BERARIA SIEGFRIED
Pork knuckles, plates of sausages and schnitzels the size
FRENCH of plates: that’s what you are getting at Siegfried . Impres-
sively, they bring the ciolan (knuckle) to your table to
ICI ET LA As regular readers will know we are suckers for weigh it so you know exactly how big a challenge you
an open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and are setting yourself: trust us, they are huge and only the
watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous home-
very hungriest of diners will finish one. The house beer
made French meal. They are rather proud of their smoked
is excellent and comes in a choice of pils, white or unfil-
salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features
tered varieties, and is even available by the metre.QB-6,
plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the mag-
Str. Lipscani 29, M Izvor, tel. (+4) 0756 01 40 41, www.
nificent creme brulee.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, M Piata
berariasiegfried.ro. Open 12:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
Romana, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36 08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08,
02:00. €€€. PSW
www.icietla.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€.
PVEBSW
DIE DEUTSCHE KNEIPE
L’ATELIER � L’ART CULINAIRE This is a restaurant This place has remained more or less unchanged in 18
where art means putting together original dishes of the years (it opened in 1996), and that’s just the way that we
highest order, all prepared by the amazing head chef. and all the other happy regulars like it. Serving giant por-
American Black Angus beef cooked in a Cabernet sauce and tions of great German sausages
sausage s (all made on the premises)
served with potato
p otato and black truffle puree: you will not find as well as huge pork knuckles, seriously good kraut and a
such things on too many menus in Bucharest. For those of Hunter Schnitzel the
the size of the Bismarck it also has a couple
you who like your desserts, the lemon cake with caremel- of cracking German beers on draught. Service comes with
ized meringue and homemade ice cream is a dream come a smile from the family team who own and run the place,
true. Find it in the Hotel Epoque: it is as fine and elegant as and you will usually need a reservation at weekends. Once
the hotel itself.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C (Epoque the weather warms up, head for the beer garden, which
Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.latelier-restaurant. comes complete with one of those German beer flagpole
ro. Open 12:00 – 23:00. €€€€. PLBSW things. Brilliant.QC-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4) 021 233
94 62/(+4) 0722 28 45 60, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro.
Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€.
FUSION PNSW
LOFT LOUNGE The truth is the food here is amongst
the best in the land, cooked by perhaps the best chef in
the country. It’s not just us who say so either. Ask anybody
in the city who knows their food and you get the same
reply: it’s brilliant. Inventive and magnificent food (seafood
dominates), cooked to perfection. The squid served with
risotto, for example: it sounds so simple yet it’s a taste sen-
sation. Not cheap of course, but worth the cost.QC-4, B-
dul Iancu de Hunedoara 56-60, M Stefan cel Mare, tel.
(+4) 0756 38 56 38, ww www.loftlou
w.loftlounge.ro.
nge.ro. Open 12:00
12:00 -
16:00, 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. PLESW
MUSE BISTRO
While not a vegetarian restaurant per se (they serve sea-
food, fish and use eggs) there is no meat on the menu here,
and there is plenty on the menu for both vegetarians and
INTERNATIONAL
BISTRO MON CHER One of those places that merits
praise simply for having been around for so long. We’ve
been coming here for years, and have always loved the
welcoming atmosphere and simple, tasty bistro food.
There is something for everyone, from
f rom sandwiches for the
lunchtime crowd to good coffee and even hot chocolate
for the kids. Leafy terrace in summer.QB-3, Calea Doro-
bantilor 20-28, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 46
98/(+4) 0731 27 38 20, www.bistromoncheri.ro. Open
08:00 - 06:00. €€€. PVSW
CAPRICCIOSA A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria GRANO An Italian the likes of which many of the other
whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even do so-called Italian restaurants in Bucharest can only dream
truffles and, let’s face it, you don’t see those every day on a of becoming. Serving simple yet delicious food - such
menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the journey uptown as the saffron risotto - that will have you telling all your
for both the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates friends to come here, you can also buy many of the special
that top restaurants don’t have to be flash.QB-dul Ion Io- ingredients they use in their little shop. Oh, and did we
nescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4) 021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 mention the chocolate cake?QC-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir
47 99 (+) 0723 26 90 30, www.restaurantcapricciosa.ro. 40, tel. (+4) 0731 1414 81 87/(
87/(+4)
+4) 021 231 23 86, ww www.
w.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLSW grano.ro.. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PSW
grano.ro
CASA DI DAVID You can say what you like about this MODIGLIANI PASTA/CARNE Amazingly good Ital-
legendar y, high-class place, but to us it remains a very nice ian restaurant which simply knocks our socks off every
place to spend the evening. The food is ristorante Italian time we come. Boasting a new chef, Cristian Marino, in
with a twist (the duck breast with citrus fruits is our pick of the kitchen this winter, there is a new menu too and the
the current menu) and outstandingly good, with enough place is quite simply better than ever: the InterContinental
fish dishes to make it appealing to sea food lovers. Staff is one of very few hotels in Bucharest which really does go
are good and the wine list a cracker.QB-1, Sos. Nordului the extra mile to make sure that us diners are kept happy.
7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232 47 15/(+4) 0722 26 93 60, www. All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is the finest Ar-
casadidavid.ro € €€€. PLSW
casadidavid.ro.. Open 12:30 - 23:30. €€€€. gentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb, the giant
BE NAT
Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata Victoriei
serving excellent value hot lunches, salads, tea, cof-
fee and cakes. Look out for the daily specials, while - if
they have it - the gazpacho is as good as any in the
city. Sit upstairs for the best views of the street below.
QA-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8, M Piata Victo-
riei, tel. (+4) 031 437 96 03/(+4) 031 437 96 01, www.
benat.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€.
PVGSW
prawns come from Indonesia and the wine is a selection BOUTIQUE DU PAIN
of the best the world has to offer. There is usually a pianist Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and a
too. We love the place.QC-5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterConti- lot more. This is in fact more bistro than anything, serv-
nental), M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06, www. ing breakfast, lunch and evening meals in fresh, bright
restaurantmodigliani.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed surroundings. The selection of morning pastries is the
Sun. €€€. PLBW best in the city, with office workers going out of their
way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there is a
ROBERTO’S A fabulous place. Boasting an open
ope n kitchen,
range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and
three distinct dining areas and a private dining room, Ro-
berto’s also has a fantastic chef: Marco Magri. The food is the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the
classical, with the menu boasting the best dishes from a menu changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner.
number of Italian regions. It’s not cheap, but prices reflect Serving great coffee and a magnificent hot chocolate,
the high quality, and note that the lunchtime set menu is we (and our kids!) love this place.QC-5, Str. Acad-
in fact very competitively priced. In a nutshell, it’s worth emiei 28-30, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33
every penny: this is one of the top five restaurants in the 00, www.boutiquedu
ww w.boutiquedupain.com.
pain.com. Open 08:30 - 22:00,
land, and the new Sunday Brunch complete with lobster Sun 8:30 - 20:00. €€. PSW
Thermidor and New Zealand lamb is top notch.QC-5, Str.
Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 OMNIVORE’S DILEMMA
37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 Tiny place serving perhaps the best cooked lunch in
- 23:00. Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00, 185 lei per person,
central Bucharest. There are just a few dishes to choose
children (over six) 92 lei. €€€€. PTGSW
from each day: ask the staff what’s good, hand over a
TRATTORIA DON VITO RISTORANTE pittance and try and bag a seat at one of the tables
They get a lot right here, not least the bean soup that is (there are only three or
o r four). You
You can take away if there
a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed is no space. The kind of place Bucharest needs loads
signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. There is pizza more of.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 214, M Piata Victoriei,
too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked tel. (+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro. Open
out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a look. Note 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€. PVGSW
that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section. Com-
mendable.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, M Piata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PSW
JAPANESE
EDO SUSHI In the courtyard of a splendid 1930s Calea
Victoriei building is this excellent sushi restaurant which is
as good as any to open in Bucharest, ever. A full range of
sushi (maki, gunkan, nigiri and tamaki) is on offer, as well
as lots of sashimi, some very tasty (and spicy) soups and
even salad. And all at prices which are far below a couple
of other sushi places in town we could mention. Indeed,
the set menus - including the 29 lei lunch - are bargains.
The also do home delivery and take-away.QB-5, Calea
MOLDOVAN yet brilliantly executed local fish dishes ( hamsii , carp and
LA PLACINTE pike) to more exotic fish shipped in direct from the Medi-
Popular Moldovan chain of eateries (there are more than terranean and beyond: sea bass, prawns, fresh tuna and
10 of these restaurants in Chisinau) comes to the centre much more. We should add that there are some fine meat
of Bucharest. Charmingly decorated in a brilliant mix of choices for those who are not fish fans. Desserts as good
traditional and hip you will love it the moment you walk as everything else. Prices high.QB-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9,
in. The food is good, and as the name suggests ( placinte tel. (+4) 0721 33 55 55/(+4)
55/(+4) 0724 33 22 33, w ww.ancora
ww.ancora--
means pies) there is a big range of pie on offer: potatoe cherhana.ro.. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLSW
cherhana.ro
pie, cheese pie, pumpkin pie and even apple pie. They are
all good, made fresh (so you might have to wait a bit) and FISHBONE Another fish restaurant more than worth the
come served piping hot. There is much else besides, in- name adds itself to the growing list of such establishments
cluding the entirely recommended pelmeni, and the Mol- in Bucharest. Well prepared, fresh fish in bright, modern
B- dul Dacia 20, M Piata Ro-
dovan version of mici.QB-4, B-dul surroundings with a great selection of side dishes and
mana, tel. (+4) 031 410 80 21/(+4) 0755 05 56 22, www. plenty of cracking wine to wash it all down with. Good
laplacinte.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Also at (C-4) Sos. Ste- lunchtime deals and friendly, happy staff ready to make
fan Cel Mare 38, (C-4) B-dul Gheorghe Magheru 26, Str. your time here memorable.QC-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Bros-
Nicolae Caranfil 49. €€. PSW teanu 2, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0721 98 28 48, ww w.
ll.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. PESW
fishbonegrill.ro.
fishbonegri
PERUVIAN MESOGIOS A businessman’s dream. While Mesogios
PERU BISTRO certainly doesn’t get any cheaper, the high standards here
Fed up with hearing about newne w dining concepts in Bucha- have ensured that it remains packed with happy punters.
rest which turn out to be nothing of the sort? Well, here is Getting on for a decade since it opened its dedication to
something genuinely new and different: Peruvian cuisine. seafood has not waned for one moment, and we never
A fusion of South American and Asian you will find superb leave disappointed (and we come here as often as our
beef and pork steaks on the menu alongside some good wallet allows). Join us and enjoy squid, lobster, prawns
fish. We were blown away by the beef served in a slightly of all sizes, mussels, oysters, giant sea bass and a host of
spicy orange sauce (lomo salsa aji ) while the Leche assado other wet treats.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 49, tel. (+4) 021
is the perfect desert. The place itself is very nice: a large 313 49 51, (+4) 0727 23 92 39/(+4) 021 317 13 55, www.
villa in the leafy north of the city. with a huge, gorgeous mesogios.ro. Open 12:30 - 24:00. €€€€. PSW
terrace at the rear in the right weather.QA-2, Str. Aviator
Petre Creţu 63, tel. (+4) 0744 62 42 97, www.perubistro. RAIONUL DE PESTE Inside Piata Dorobanti (Dorobanti
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLVBSW Market) you will find Raionul de Peste, which translates as
Fish Counter . And that’s exactly what this place is: a fish
counter serving fresh fish which someone will cook for you
SEAFOOD on the spot. You can then sit and eat it at the b ar. It’s a bril-
CHERHANAUA ANCORA liant, simple concept widely found in other capital cities
Cherhana in Romanian means ‘fishery’, so you will already but a new one for Bucharest: we hope they do really well.
know what to expect here: fine fish and seafood. The There’s wine by the glass if you fancy a drink and prices are
interior is rather special: bright and contemporary, with good. Closes at 21:00 (with the market) so get there early.
more than a hint of local flavour. In a city now boasting QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 3-6, tel. (+4) 031 436 70 42/(+4)
more than a few seriously good interiors, this is up with 0756 05 80 12. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
the best of them. The food is very good too, from simple Closed Mon. €€. GSW
SPANISH
ALIOLI TAPAS Order yourself a San Miguel or
or a pitcher
of Sangria and stick your feet up. Great tapas and cocktail
bar, frequented by nice people who all come ready to chat.
pae lla, the osso
Top food choices include the mussels, the paella,
bucco and the gambas al ajillo. Of the desserts, the saba-
ñón de almendras was the best. It’s all good though, and
excellent value, not least the lunchtime set menu. Nice
place too.QB-5, Str. Popa Tatu 4, tel. (+4) 021 311 80 27/
(+4) 0721 38 49 83, www.alioli.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€. PLESW
PATA
PATA NEGRA
NEGR A COPAS Y TAPAS The moment you walk
in and see the huge Spanish hams hanging above the bar
you will know that you have come to the right place. There
have been a few attempts at creating a genuine Spanish
tapas bar in Bucharest over the years: this is perhaps the
first to truly get it right. Those in the know can order a
range of tapas from the menu, while beginners can just OSHO
ask the great staff select a few for you. Everything is au- Sometimes when writing a review, all you really want to
thentic: it is all imported from Spain, and the icing on the write is ‘this place is brilliant.’ This is a butcher’s shop and
cake is the paella, made exactly as it should be with all the restaurant serving T-bone steaks you would scream for in
right ingredients. Add in top Spanish wines and you have the dark. There is more than steak on the menu though,
every reason to go there right now.QB-5, Str. Crisana 21, such as a top burger (which comes in three sizes), tangy
tel. (+4)
(+4) 0734 34 90 76,76, ww
www.patanegra.
w.patanegra.ro.
ro. Open 12:00
12:00 lamb chops and an outstanding selection of fresh fish.
- 24:00. Closed Mon. €€€. PBW Plus, there’s a kid’s menu. We also have to admit to being
pleasantly surprised about the prices: given the location
(this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more than reason-
STEAK HOUSES able considering you get the best of the best. Packed at
JW STEAKHOUSE BUCHAREST lunchtime.QB-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, M Aviatorilor,
The JW Marriott hosts one of Bucharest’s best chophouses: tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31/(+4) 021 568 30 32, www.osho-
the JW Steakhouse , only the second such signature venue restaurant.ro. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
to open in Europe. You can expect a very American steak- 10:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PTVSW
house experience, right down to the Black Angus beef
imported from the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in ROYAL STEAK
at nearly a kilo - is the pick of the steaks, but there is much For once, a place claiming to be something unique in Ro-
more besides, including broiled lobster and Australian mania actually delivers: this is certainly a first as far as our
lamb chops. There is a great selection of new world wines, experience goes. The meat and seafood here (and it is all
and they open early for breakfast: the American pancakes of the finest quality, shipped in from Argentina and around
and eggs Benedict are a great option to start the day with. the world) is cooked on hot stones, which are brought to
Note that JW is closed Saturday lunchtime, and for din- your table (with three magnificent sauces) so that you can
ner Sunday evening.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW cook it as much (or as little) as you like. If you don’t fancy
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), M Izvor/Eroilor, tel. doing it yourself the staff are on hand to help out. The
(+4) 021 403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. Open 06:30 place itself is classy: smart without
wi thout overdoing it, and is per-
- 11:00, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 - 11:00, fect for a treat. Note that you can also buy steaks here to
18:30 - 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 210 lei/pers, cook at home.QC-4, Piata Romana 8, M Piata Romana,
children between six and twelve half price, children un- tel. (+4) 0751 18 21 21 10, ww
www.royalsteak.ro.
w.royalsteak.ro. Open 12:00
der six free. €€€€. PLESW - 23:00. €€€. PALBSW
VACAMUUU
One of the most talked-about chophouse in the city. VEGAN
Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good that even BARCA Vegan and raw vegan food like you’ve never
the most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling, you can tasted. So good in fact that even the most fervent meat
also feast on lamb, veal and pork chops, while the burg- eaters will leave happy. There is a wide range of so ups (the
ers are a match for anywhere else. There is a kid’s menu, coconut soup being our favourite) as well as pasta and sal -
and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet is top ad. Of the main meals the lentil risotto with avocado was
value. Most of the meat can be bought to take home and fabulous, and the desserts are an inventive treat. Barca will
cook yourself should you wish, and then there’s the wine deliver - to home or office - and many of the ingredients
list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself when you can be bought should you wish to try cooking some of
come here.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731 35 earl y.QB-3, Str. Emanoil Porum-
this stuff at home. Closes early.
11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€€€. baru 9, M Aviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0720 92 82 78/(+4) 0747
PTSW 59 47 18, www.restaurantbarca.ro. Open 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. €€. PVSW
THAI LOVEGAN
KUNNAI Vegan and raw-vegan food cooked (or prepared!) with
At last, a place for those of us who have been craving just a little extr
extraa care
c are than usual, at prices which are also
something authentically Thai since Moods closed a while a tad higher than usual. We think the extra is well worth it,
however: the food here is as tasty and inventive as it gets,
ago now. This place is terrific, found on the ground floor
from the simple yet delicious risotto with asparagus to the
of a new apartment block in a leafy northern part of Bu-
more complex kokopelli: quinoa with sauteed vegetables
charest. The food is the real deal, of which the food will
and a surprisingly hot sauce. The menu of the day is always
convince you immediately. We had the Pla Praew Waan
good value, and note that they deliver (although there is a
fish stir-fry followed by the prawn Phad Thai : both were
small charge). Closes at 8pm, so get here well in time. But
sensational and well worth the money (it’s good value if
do get here: it’s as un- Bucharest as they come. A real treat.
not exactly cheap). Get there now.QStr. Copilului 6, tel. QB-4, B-dul Lascăr Catargiu 1, M Piata Romana, tel.
(+4) 0722 68 73 43/(+4) 0722 68 74 54, www.kunnai. (+4) 0742 12 11 03/(+4) 021 367 23 66, www.lovegan.
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen order 23:00. €€€€. ro. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. €€.
PTLSW PAVSW
VIOLETA’S
VIOLETA’S BISTRO
B ISTRO The concept is great: very good
traditional and modern Romanian food (the cook is
not afraid to experiment) with more than a nod to-
wards the vegetarian served off a menu that changes
regularly. You can check the latest menu online (it is
always up to date) and then decide if you fancy any-
thing before setting off. Chances are you will spot
plenty you like. The
T he brunch from 11:00-1
1:00-16:00
6:00 on Satur-
S atur-
days is excellent value at 80 lei per person: kids under
seven are free. The place itself (now in a new location)
is lovely, the staff wonderful and as a whole it is just so
un-Bucharest that you will want to squeeze it and hug
it.QD-6, Str. George Ionescu-Gion 9, tel. (+4) 0722
52 56 43, www.violetas.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat
10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. €€€. PGBSW
BLACK EYE COFFEE Bright little cafe packed with comfy Given how popular the place is (particularly the amazing
armchairs close to Cismigiu Park, serving a decent range garden/courtyard in warmer weather) we suggest making
of well-priced coffee, including an outstanding Jamaica a reservation if you want a table.QC-5, Str. Pictor Arthur
Blue Mountain. You can also try out various coffee brewing Verona 13-15, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60.
methods, from an aeropress to a syphon. Oh, and the place Open 09:00 - 24:00. PESW
is wholly non-smoking, worthy of commendation.QB-5,
B-dul Regina Elisabeta 59, tel. (+4) 0768 93 66 40, www. CAFE TIMES
blackeyecoff ee.ro. Open 08:00 - 22:00. PGSW
blackeyecoffee.ro. Free speedy Wifi with your (excellent) coffee and a can-
do attitude from the staff who appear to realise that
NEW sometimes people are busy, and need their coffee double
BOHEMIA TEA HOUSE We rarely use the word cool, but quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Hav-
few others do justice
just ice to this rather unqiue tea house. Colour- ing said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that you
ful and not a little bizarre, the loft here - packed with cush- end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how
ions and soft furnishings just right for crashing on - is a great busy you are.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, M Piata Muncii,
place to spend an afternoon. As the weather warms up, the tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.ro. Open 07:30 -
shady courtyard is a welcome retreat from the heat. Serves 24:00. PLESW
a massive range of exotic tea, and it’s non-smoking.QB-5,
Str. Poiana Narciselor 1, tel. (+4) 0727 33 36 31, www. CAMERA DIN FATA
bohemiatea.ro.. Open 12
bohemiatea.ro :00 - 23:00. PGW
12:00 The name means ‘Front room’, and being here is in many
ways just like being somebody’s front room. Great coffee
CAFE & GRADINA VERONA Sublime. At the brilliant and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous tea pots at
Carturesti bookshop is this delightful place serving coffee, tables which fill up early as the world pops in for espresso
teas, cocktails, beer and a vast range of fabulous lemonade. on its way to work. There’s wine, and cocktails, too, and
There is also good food, both fromf rom an a la carte menu as many people will insist the place is even better in the
well as a terrific value set lunch. They have one of the best evening, not least because it’s fully non-smoking. You will
selection of vegan dishes in the city (including delicious need a reservation.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev
Mende leev 22, tel. (+4) 021
vegetable noodles, a good korma and decent humus). Ser- 311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
vice is always great from the top staff, and there is often a Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
cultural event happening (including occasional live music). PGSW
32 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Cafés
NEW ORIGO This place isis all about great
great coffee
coffee from all
all over
over the
THE COFFEE FACTORY Such a good place we consid- world, as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too. Many
ered leaving it out of the guide so that we could have it of the more exotic coffees can be bought by the packet to
all to ourselves! Non-smoking, this place offers some very make at home, and the design
d esign of the place is not too shabby
exotic coffee (how about a sweet and aromatic Guatemala either: the coffee cups
cu ps hanging down over the bar are a nice
Acatenango, or a Masala spiced brew?) as well as rather touch. There’s relaxing music, cocktails and - here comes the
excellent (and growing) selection of some ver y good wine. big news - inside it is totally non-smoking.QC-6, Str. Lip-
There are also
a lso croissants,
croissant s, brownies, biscuits and quiche if scani 9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 88. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat
your a bit peckish. It’s great.QB-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PGSW
54, tel. (+4) 0766 28 24 70, www.thecoffeefactory.ro.
Open 09:00 - 23:00. PGSW READERS CAFE This place is one of the great things
about the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites
NEW and Loft restaurant also form part. You will find Readers
FRUDISIAC Minimalist yet strikingly designed, this is a cafe, on the ground floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space
juice bar and breakfast/brun
juice breakfast/brunchch venue all in one. Exceedin
Exceedingly
gly where you can read, drink great coffee or eat - far better
laid back, it serves the best hot chocolate in town alongside than you would expect. The breakfast is terrific, the sand-
a wide range of juices, smoothies and some excellent light wiches tasty and well-filled, the salads big and the pasta
meals, it has become an instant hit with those people lucky light.QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, M Stefan
enough to get a seat. Fortunately, good weather heralds the cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, www.readerscafe.
opening of the courtyard, which will see the capacity treble. ro. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
A little piece of Sweden in the middle of Dorobanti.QB-3, PLESW
Str. Intrarea Bitolia 4, tel. (+4) 021 231 04 11/(+4) 0730 64
19 43. Open 08:00 - 19:00. PGW SUBSOL BAR Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucha-
rest. Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the
LENTE & CAFEA 1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly
While best-loved as a summer venue (the large garden/ - to Romania’s architectural association. The cafe (and bar)
courtyard is delightful) the interior of this place should not which occupies part of the building is more than worthy
be overlooked either.
eith er. The food is excellent, a cut above the of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated
Bucharest average. The salads are big and tasty and there with scenes from the revolution.QC-5, Str. Demetru Ion
is a surprisingly good range of beef dishes, although best Dobrescu 5, M Universitate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98,
of all we liked the gulas soup.QD-5, Str. Arcului 2, tel. (+4) www.subsolbar.ro.
www.subsolbar .ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PSW
021 210
210 96 96, www.lente.ro.
w ww.lente.ro. Open
Op en 11:30
11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
11:30 - 01:00. PVGSW TUCANO COFFEE Currently Bucharest’s most talked-
about cafe, not least for the fact that it serves amazing
M60 Elegant, contemporary cafe in an enviable city cen- cheesecake and its freshly roasted speciality Arabica cof-
tre location. Eclectically furnished, parts of it feel like an fee. This is much more than a simple cafe however: it puts
office, parts of it feel like your living room and other bits on all sorts events, both for kids
k ids at the weekends and for us
resemble an upmarket diner: there is something for every- grown ups in the evenings. It hosts yard sales, book clubs,
one. Coffee (their own blend), a craft
craf t beer and wine by the workshops, music evenings and film nights. Bohemian
glass, alongside light meals and desserts. All very nice, all and non-conformist it is Bucharest at its best. Oh, and we
very chic and all very popular: at weekends the place is should add that it is non-smoking. Hurrah!QC-4, Calea
full. Worth your time.QC-5, Str. Mendeleev 2, M Piata Dorobantilor 18, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0761 37 66
Romana, tel. (+4) 031 410 00 10, m60cafe.tumblr.com. 26, www.tucanocoffee.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Open 10:00 - 24:00. PGW Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PEGBSW
PUBS
ENERGIEA
We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and big windows
make it a good choice day and night, the original (we
think?) tiled floor looks great and there are a number of
different rooms, not all of which carry the industrial-chic
look of the main bar, good for get togethers with larger
groups. Best of all though we like the raised interior bal-
cony, which is top cocktail-sipping territory. Most nights
you will need a reservation.QB-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, M U-
niversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.ro.
Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
PLBSW
34 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
OPERA & BALLET LISTINGS
All performanc
performances
es take
take place
place at the
the Romanian
Romanian
National Opera. See foot of the page for details.
April
Opera
15, 16 19:00 RIGOLETTO GIUSEPPE VERDI
RIGOLETTO GIUSEPPE
18 19:00 TOSCA GIACOMO PUCCINI
19 11:00 PUSS IN BOOTS CHILDREN’S OPERA
DON GIOVANNI
19 19:00
WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART
HANSEL & GRETEL CHILDREN’S
30 11:00
OPERA
Ballet & Contemporary Dance
25, 26, TRIPTIC DE BALET
19:00
29 PROKOFIEV, MOZART, LISZT
TANGO, RADIO & JULIET
30 19:00
EDWARD CLUG
May
Opera
HANSEL & GRETEL
2, 16 11:00
CHILDREN’S OPERA
L’ELISIR D’
D’AMORE
AMORE
2, 7, 17 19:00
GAETONO DONIZETTI
THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO
9 19:00
WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART
FALSTAFF
14, 15 19:00
GIUSEPPE VERDI
23, 24, MANON LESCAUT
19:00
30, 31 GIACOMO PUCCINI
Ballet & Contemporary Dance
3, 10, TRIPTIC DE BALET
19:00
11, 16 PROKOFIEV, MOZART, LISZT
6 19:00 FEMEI GHEORGHE IANCU
FEMEI GHEORGHE
TANGO, RADIO & JULIET
8, 28 19:00
EDWARD CLUG
ROMANIAN NATIONAL OPERA Bucharest’s el-
egant opera house was built in the early 1950s. You can
book seats online, and print off your own tickets.QA-5,
B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314
69 80, www.operanb.ro. Box office open 09:00-13:00,
15:00-19:00.
JAZZ CLUB
GREEN HOURS JAZZ CAFÉ
There is live jazz here alongside other art
artyy stuff - in-
cluding theatre, comedy, book launches and the like
- most evenings. Popular with a crowd that encom-
passes all ages, it’s definitely a place you should visit
once before leaving Bucharest.QB-4, Calea Victoriei
120, tel. (+4) 0788 45 24 85/(+4) 021 313 86 06,
www.greenhours.ro. Check the venue’s website for
concert details. PENBW
see what’s on the night you fancy going). Drinks are well much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ).
priced, and there are two bars meaning that you never Has a live band playing at least once a week, bags of other
have to wait too long to get served. Top notch.QB-5, Str. events and refreshingly says ‘NO’ to table service: yes, you
Ion Brezoianu 4, M Piata Unirii/Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We
47 28, www.expirat.org. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed are fans.QC-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, M Piata Unirii/Universi-
Mon, Tue, Sun. (Expirat); 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, tate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.ro. Open
Thu, Sun. (The OtherSide). PEW 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PLEW
ESSENTIAL BUCHAREST nia’s most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the
The first
first port of call for
for any visitor
visitor to
to Bucharest
Bucharest these
these days is
is story of Romanian music in general. QB-4, Calea Victo-
usually the Historic Centre, or Old Town. The Peasant and riei 141, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www.
Village Museums should not be missed, and while still the georgeenescu.ro. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
most famous building in the city, Casa Poporului/Palatul mission 6 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of
Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down for many peo- each month.
ple. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon at the
National Art Museum, while last but not least half a day at GRIGORE ANTIPA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HIS�
the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian TORY �MUZEUL DE ISTORIE NATURALĂ GRIGORE
literary, artistic, political and architectural history. ANTIPA� One of Romania’s finest museums, and one of
the best natural history museums in Europe. Packed with
CASA POPORULUI �PARLIAMENT PALACE; PAL� terrific exhibits which will keep kids of all ages and their par-
ATUL PARLAME
PARLAMENTULUI�
NTULUI� Palatul Parlamentului (known ents occupied for the best part of the day, there are all sorts
universally as Casa Poporului ) was built during the dark- of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D films, artificial
est days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m caves and - in the basement - a thorough guide to the in-
above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been credible amount of animal and plant life native to Romania.
shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally The building
building which
which houses
houses itit all is itself worthy of note, pur-
designed (by a young architect, Anca Petrescu, who was pose built in 1908 at the behest of Grigore Antipa, a noted
just 28 at the time) to house almost all the organs of the Romanian naturalist who then set-up and ran the museum
communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian par- for almost five decades until his death in 1944. QB-3, Şos.
liament, as well as Romania’s Museum of Contemporary Art . Kiseleff 1, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www.
The public
public tour of the
the building
building is thoroughly recommend
recommended ed antipa.ro. Open 10:00
10:00-2-20:00.
0:00. Closed Mon. Admiss Admission
ion 20
(it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the lei, pensioners 10 lei, children/students 5 lei.
commentary often consists of little more than a guide reel-
ing off superlative statistics. You’ll see plenty of grand stair- NATIONAL ART MUSEUM �MNAR; MUZEUL NA�
cases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while - if TIONAL DE ARTA� The country
country’s
’s largest, and most
you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go on impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid
the roof, which offers perhaps the defining view of central former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home
Bucharest. You can now even take a trip into the bowels of by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. It became a royal
the building down below, though again this costs extra. To residence in 1859, when it was chosen as the site of the
join one of the tours you will need to bring your passport. court of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexan-
Use the entrance on the left-hand side of the palace (if dru Ion Cuza. There are two permanent galleries, split over
you’re looking at it front-on). Izvor is
is the nearest metro sta-
tion. QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3, M Izvor, THEODOR AMAN MUSEUM
tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00
(last tour 15:30). Admission 25-45 lei adults, 13-23 lei stu- Recently reopened after a long period of restoration,
dents. Free for children under 18 and the disabled. An this lovely, centrally-located house is one of the finest
additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by those with cam- old residences in Bucharest, although blink and you
eras, either still or video. will miss it, hemmed in as it is by tall blocks. Built in
1868 as a home and studio by painter Theodor Aman
GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM �MUZEUL NATION� it includes a vast number of Aman’s work: the many
AL GEORGE ENESCU� Mistakenly believed to be the murals and frescoes are not the least
leas t of these. Look out
great Romanian composer George Enescu’s former home, too for the exterior decorations, the work of sculptor
this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for Karl Storck. A charming treat, and really something of
landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older a must.QC-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 8, tel. (+4) 021 314 58
Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Pal- 12, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro/muzeul-theodor-
ace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescu’s aman.html. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated Adults 5 lei, children, students, pensioners 2 lei.
to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual Photography fee 15 lei.
memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Roma-
COTROCENI MUSEUM
Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romania’s first
king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the of-
ficial residence of the Romanian President. Built on the
site of a former monastery (the foundations and cellars of
which remain, and form part of the tour of the palace), the
palace was designed by a French team of architects, led
by Paul Gottereau. It served as the Bucharest residence of
the Romanian royal family until 1939. Part of the palace is
open to the public, and can be visited on a tour.QB-dul
Geniului 1, M Politehnica, tel.
te l. (+4) 021 317 31 07,
07, www.
w ww.
muzeulcotroceni.ro. Open 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
Admission 27 lei, students and children 21 lei. Admis-
sion includes entrance and the compulsory guided
tour. Tours are available in Romanian, French and Eng-
lish. Last tour begins at 16:30.
NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM �MUZEUL bolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paint-
TEHNIC DIMITRIE LEONIDA� Often unfairly derided as ings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes
an outdated museum of technology, it should be remem- with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes. Alas the
bered that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets small museum that today bears
bear s his name has only six of his
on display here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least paintings, a couple of his sketches and assorted other art.
not in this day and age. They were all, however, cutting edge
ed ge
when they first appeared, with some of the older steam
engines dating back to the beginning of the 19th century.
The museum is housed in something of a cherish cherished
ed relic
itself: the last remaining pavilion (one of many) built (like
the Carol Park in which it stands) to host the 1906 Romania
in the World Fair . QC-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel.
(+4) 021 336 93 90. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 6 lei, students, children 3 lei.
The museum’s saving grace is the house in which it is host- mous for its many exterior icons. On the other side of the
ed: the oldest in Bucharest. Originally called the Casa Melik , park it is worth looking out for the medieval-looking Te-
it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork pes Castle (which in fact dates from 1906), once a water
Nazaretoglu.QD-5, Str. Spătarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211
211 49 tower but now used as offices. QC- C-7
7, Calea
Cal ea Serban
Se rban Vodă,
79. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5 M Eroii Revolutiei.
lei, students and children 2.50 lei.
CISMIGIU GARDENS �GRĂDINA CISMIGIU�
The most central of the city’s public gardens, Cismigiu
Cismigiu is a
PARKS & GARDENS haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Cismigiu was first
BOTANICAL GARDENS �GRĂDINA BOTANICĂ� designed and laid out in 1845 by the German landscape
Bucharest ’s rather fabulous Botanical Gardens were found-
Bucharest’s architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until 1860. More
ed in 1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince than 30,000 trees and plants were brought in from the Ro-
Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent manian mountains, while exotic plants were fetched from
Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and in- the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights
Highlight s of the 17
17 hectare
hectar e
structions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in the garden include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style of
grounds of the Cotroceni Monaster y, moving to their pres- ancient Rome, and including busts of Romania’s most fa-
ent location in 1884. The gardens today extend over an mous writers, and the lake, which during the winter can be
area of more than 17 hectares, and host more than 10,000 skated on.QB-5, Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea
species of plants, approximately half of which are culti- Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vodă and B-dul Schitu Măgureanu,
vated in the impressive glasshouses, recently renovated MUniversitate.
and fabulous: kids love the wide variety of strange plants
inside, especially the cacti and the Venus fly traps.QSos. HERĂSTRĂU PARK This glorious park,
park , spread over 18
1877
Cotroceni 32, M Politehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39, hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the jewels in Bu-
www.gradina-botanica.ro.
www.gradina-botani ca.ro. Gardens Open 08:00
08:00-2-20:00.
0:00. charest’s crown, which might explain why half of the city
Botanical Museum Open 10:00-15:00, 09:00-13:00, Sat, chooses to spend its Sunday afternoons
afterno ons here. The first thing
Sun, Closed Fri. Greenhouses Open 10:00-13:00, Closed you will see when entering the park from Piata Charles de
Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei, stu- Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre statue of de Gaulle
dents and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses himself. Unveiled
Unveiled in 2006 the statue
st atue is the work of local art-
ar t-
cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children. ist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was commissioned by the
Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharest’s hosting
CAROL PARK �PARCUL CAROL I� Designed in 1906 that year of the Francophonie conference. Charles de Gaulle
by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont, Carol Park is not the only historic figure honoured in this part of the
is today dominated by the massive Monument to the park with a statue or bust, however. In fact, the alleyways
Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism and paths which fan out from the entrance are all dotted
(it stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until with famous people, from Romanian revolutionary Nicolae
1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe Balcescu to Bengali literature’s most important figure, Rabi-
Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza (it is today the site of the ndranath Tagore.
Tagore. Look out also for local
lo cal artists
artist s Nicolae Gri-
tomb of the unknown Romanian soldier). The park offers gorescu, Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman, as well as
some pleasant walks along tree-lined paths, playgrounds, writers George Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romania’s
and a good view of central Bucharest from
fr om the monument. national poet, Mihai Eminescu. Other foreigners honoured
The Arenele Romane in the west of the park, next to the with statues include William Shakespeare,
Shakespeare, Ady Endre, San- San -
observatory of the Astronomic Institute of the Romanian dor Petofi and Victor Hugo. You can hire bikes at the main
Academy is a popular venue for concerts. Close by is the entrance: they are free for two hours but you will need to
gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church , built in 1796 and fa- leave ID.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, M Aviatorilor.
e s t i c
M a j e
ic
s a
Capitol C a p
C a s a
Cismigiu Museum of
Z Boutique
Bucharest K&K
Central Elisabeta
Coltea Church
Doamnei & Hospital
Russian
Church
Rembrandt
Mihai Voda
Stavropoleos
Church Baratiei
Tania
History
Museum Sf. Dumitru
Europa Royale
Domnita
Balasa
Old Town - which most locals call Centru Vechi (Old Centre) of the Old Town’s streets are pedestrianised, with access for
- is a little pocket of 19th and early 20th century Bucharest vehicles strictly limited (well, strictly by Romanian stand-
which survived both the bombing of World War II and the ards). There
There is an underground car park at Piata Universitatii,
bulldozers of Romania’s communist planners. It is described accessed via Strada Doamnei. Taxis will usually drop you off
by Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and Piata Universitatii to the at what is known as La Bariera (at the bottom end of Strada
north, Bulevardul IC Bratianu to the east, the river to the Selari) or at the National Bank. When leaving the Old Town
south and Calea Victoriei to the west. Not more than one always be careful to take an honest taxi: see page seven for
kilometre square, the area boasts more restaurants, pubs more on taxis in Bucharest.
and clubs than any other district in the city.
SEAFOOD
MARIN SEAFOOD GRILL
Brilliant: this place looks as though it belongs in Croatia.
Why go for a kebab when for much the same price you can
get fresh, tasty sardines with grilled veggies? Or a mag-
nificently hot fish soup? Pay a bit more (but still a pit tance)
and you can feast on mussels, squid and octopus: the kind
that melts in the mouth. Tiny, it has a covered terrace at
this time of year and a couple of tables inside. If you like
seafood you will love it.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 4, M Uni-
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 84 75. Open 14:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 14:00 - 05:00. €€. SW
STEAK
ORO TORO From the people who brought you Osho
comes this place, a colourful addition to Strada Franceza.
You can expect much the same kind of food as at the orig-
inal Osho: top burgers, steaks, chicken and pork, as well
as sensational finger food and club sandwiches. There is
usually a bargain set-priced menu at lunchtime. Not to
be missed is the oxtail soup: probably the only place in
the city you will get it cooked exactly as it should be. Gets
clubby as the evening wears on.QC-6, Str. Franceza 38-
42, M Unirii, tel. (+4) 021438 05 24/(+4) 0744 633 724, bit more comfortable. Coffee by day and cocktails
cockt ails by night
www.orotoro.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PESW is the order of things, and at the weekend the place has a
DJ and quite frankly rocks. Tour de France? Tour de force.
QC-6, Str. Lipscani 38, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 61
TURKISH 62 98, bicicletabar@gmail.com. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri,
DIVAN Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PW
From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to
the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good res- LABORATORUL DE COCKTAILURI A cocktail bar
taurant. The well-priced
well-price d food is good value Turkish/Middle
Turkish/Middle (there is beer too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds
Eastern, and it’s very good indee d. They will even cook
cook you of teas) where everything has been thought out to the mi-
a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours notice. We opted nutest detail. The name means Cocktail Factory , so you get
for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good your Tom Collins or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in
they were too. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a conical flask, while the bar itself looks like an old phar-
a hookah pipe: there’s a huge range of flavours to choose macy. Unusually, they have even invested in decent bar
from.QC-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) stools. Trendy without overdoing it. Commendable.QC-6,
021 312 30 34, www.thedivan.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Str. Stavropoleos 8, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80
Also at (C-2) Calea Floreasca 111-113. €€€. PSW 40. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PNW
REHAB BAR An Old Town bar has to be a bit different roof. There is a range of events, be it live music of various
these days to grab our attention: Rehab is just that. It’s the sorts or DJs spinning tunes, and besides drinks there is a
kind of place you see anywhere and everywhere, except decent selection of good food. It has been a hit since it
in Bucharest. Until now. With cushions on wooden steps first opened in December and we expect it to stay popular
making impromptu seats and a sofa at the window, it’s for some time to come.QC-6, Str. Smardan 30, M Piata
just very different and highly welcome. The drinks menu is is Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 44 80 80. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri,
done in the style of a medical journal, and offers the usual Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PEBW
mix of coffee, tea, cocktails and smoothies. For added
quirkiness you get the bill in a sample bottle.QC-6, Str. THE BAZAAR Club Tropicana. It’s not every day you see
Gabroveni 19, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 12 25 52. a palm tree or two in a Bucharest bar, neither are there
Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PW too many places in Old Town as big as this: there’s up-
stairs (complete with comfy armchairs), downstairs, and
on warmer evenings everyone spills out on to the street
OLD TOWN BARS: UPMARKET outside. On one of Old Town’s less-crowded streets this
ENTOURAGE CENTRUL VECHI is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. Music is
You will like this place. A nice long bar, proper tall bar loungesque , supplied by a DJ who knows his onions. Fun
stools and even leather armchairs for those who want to and sunshine.QC-6, Str. Covaci 10, M Piata Unirii, tel.
chill. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from one of the (+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.thebazaar.ro. Open 10:00 -
best bar menus in Bucharest: you will find something on it 02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:30. PW
you fancy. There must be 100 lamps hanging down from
the ceiling: all different. Startlingly brilliant place, refresh- THE DRUNKEN LORDS It’s alright this place: worth
ingly free of brewery branding too: always a bonus these looking out for. In a side street between Lipscani and Bla-
days.QC-6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7, M Universitate, tel. nari, you will find a good, lively pub playing decent music
(+4) 0722 93 79 72. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PSW and offering a vibe a little more upmarket than most other
places in the Old Town (especially those in and around this
KLEIN BAR & BISTRO little alleyway). Hosts live music, sports and regular cultur-
Bar and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. It’s a great place al events. Very cool.QC-6, Intr. Nicolae Selari 3-5, M Uni-
to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge versitate, tel. (+4) 0736 23 88 15,
15, www.thedrunkenlords.
www.thedru nkenlords.
of Bucharest’s newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a ro. Open 17:00 - 5:00. PEBSW
favourite for those looking for something just a little more
restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, ev-
erything comes at very reasonable prices. Even acts as an OLD TOWN WINE BARS
ad hoc Tourist Info Centre.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, M Uni- ABEL’S WINE BAR
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Genuinely gorgeous little wine bar one of the most char-
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PGW acter-filled streets
stre ets in the Old Town. This place oozes charm
from every corner,
corne r, its simple yet striking decor a refreshing
NOMAD SKYBAR change from some of the more gaudy places in the area.
Those of you expecting
expec ting to find this ‘skybar
‘skybar’’ up in the Gods Stocks a wide selection of terrific wine from all over the
will no doubt be disappointed to find it no higher than world, and most are available
availabl e by the glass. There’s also tea,
the second floor of an Old Town building. That will be very good coffee and long drinks. You will love it.QC-6,
the only disappointment, however, for this place is ace: a Str. Nicolae Tonitza 10, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0371
design sensation making fantastic use of an amazing loft 03 36 43, www.abelswinebar.ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00.
which does indeed look upon the sky via its mainly glass Closed Mon. PSW
BRUNO WINE BAR & BISTRO from across the world. Almost all of them are available by
So much more than wine and coffee on offer here you will the glass. The idea behind this place was to create a wine
be forgiven for thinking you have the wrong place! This is bar where anyone - no matter how little they know about
a bistro really, a genuine French style place, where good wine - would feel welcome, comfortable and not be in-
wine by the glass is available next to a decent spread of timidated. In that regard, it’s a total success.QStr. Bacani
simple food, with a regularly changing menu. Top selec- 1, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro.
tion of cognac.QC-6, Str. Covaci 3, M Piata Unirii, tel. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 -
(+4) 021 317 17 41/(+4) 0757 55 72 91, www.brunowine. 24:00. PSW
ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00. PBSW
THOMAS ANTIQUES BAR
CORKS COZY BAR Above the Thomas Antiques shop in Old Town is a cafe, tea
Nice little wine bar tucked away on an Old Town side house and bar where you can enjoy a hot white chocolate
street which quickly won itself a handy following of ad- (or something stronger) while discussing the merits of the
mirers and regulars. A look at the wine list will be enough goods you’ve been admiring. There’s nothing quite like
to tell you why, offering as it does a vast range of wines taking tea on an antique chair you might end up taking
home. Regular events too, from string quartets to book
launches and the like.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, M Piata Uni-
rii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, www.thomas-antiques.ro.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
PW
BEER O’CLOCK
This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the
biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly
named. With brews from all over the world you could drink
a different beer every night for a month and not try the
same one twice. What’s more, besides the beer they also
have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great at ten-
tion to details. Tiny, with only a few places to sit, it’s worth
reserving if you want to be sure of a seat. Note: there is
now a much bigger Beer O’Clock on on Strada Gabroveni fur-
ther down in Old Town. We prefer the tiny original.QC-6,
BIUTIFUL
When you walk in, you will see where the name comes
from: it is indeed biutiful , an enormous industrial-chic
space with a little added glamour (check out the lights
and the comfy sofas), creating a rather special atmosphere
rather like an upmarket, contemporary central London
bar and grill. The food is more than decent - salads, tapas
and burgers - with the beef and horseradish sandwich a
confirmed winner; The fish and chips wasn’t bad either. A
must visit for either drinks or food, preferably both. Note
that they only take reservations up to 19:00, after that it’s
first come first served.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8, M Piata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro. Open
12:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00. PSW
BORDELLO
There is always something going on here, every night
of the week. From quiz nights and live music to the bur-
lesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop for
great nights out. There’s Heineken, Murphy’s and Paulaner
on tap and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is great,
with some rather special tapas, including the ribs which
are just about the best we’ve ever had in Bucharest. At the
weekends, head downstairs to the Boudoir , and note that
upstairs is the new Mulanruj Dining Theatre, with live caba-
ret on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. You can’t miss telling us we can’t sit at the bar). Hosting regular events,
this place by the way: just look for the ‘tarts’ in their un- from theme parties to karaoke, you will find this place
derwear beckoning you in.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, M Piata at the northern edge of the Old Town, at the end of the
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. Open little alley that runs from Lipscani to Blanari, opposite the
11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun church.QC-6, Str. Blanari 21, M Universitate, tel. (+4)
14:00 - 02:00. PESW 0729 72 87 82, www.expatpub.ro. Open 19:00 - 07:00.
Closed Mon.
EXPAT PUB
Looking to become one of the city’s default after-work EXPLORER’S PUB
and expat venues, this place has plenty going for it, not A likeable Irish pub on Strada Franceza whose biggest at-
least the hands-on owners and the great staff: they clearly traction - besides a more than decent pint of Guinness - is
know what an actual pub should look and feel like, which the vast collection of maps on the walls. We also like the
is nothing less than revolutionary for
fo r this city. For instance, fact that you can sit at the bar on a proper bar stool, while
it’s got a great wooden bar and proper stools so you can the selection of food is better - and more varied - than
sit at the bar itself. (We are fed up with Bucharest pubs you would expect to find at your average pub. Very nicely
done indeed.QC-6, Str. Franceza 9, M Piata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0735 19 01 31, www.explorerspub.ro. Open 12:00
- 03:00. PW
LA 100 DE BERI
The name (as you might have guessed) means 100 Beers,
and that’s exactly what they have here: beer, and lots of
it, from all over the world. In fact, looking at the menu it
would appear that they stock considerably more than 100
beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for
those who don’t fancy a beer. Nice long, English-style bar
at which you can sit all night and sample as many beers
as you can.QC-6, Str. Covaci 8, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0784 24 60 46. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.
PBW
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2015 59
Old Town
OKTOBERFEST What makes this place so special is OLD CITY Very good, always lively pub and club with
how very ordinary it is. You will find the crowd more lo- regular live music and other events on Lipscani with a huge
cal than foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary ‘out beer garden (in the right weather) out the back. Serves a
for a drink and a good time’ locals at that, not the fitze decent range of very good cocktails (a sweet-as-you-like
crowd. The owners try to make something happen every mojito went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket on
night, whether it’s football on the
th e television or impromptu our last visit) and some pub grub that is far better than you
drinking competitions. The house Oktoberfest beer is would assume. A big screen shows football and the like,
a bargain at 4 lei a glass. Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2, which and it hosts loads of theme nights, from Insane Wednes-
has a small terrace with heaters at this time of year.QC-6, days to Champagne Saturdays.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 45,
Str. Selari 9 -11, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-
www.oktoberfest-pub.ro. Open 24hrs. Also at (C-6) Str. lipscani.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW
Franceza 3. Open 10:00 - 07:00. PNBW
TRUE SOCIAL CLUB In that wonderful location once
known as Temple (on the corner of Strada Selari and Splai-
OLD TOWN BEERHALL ul Independentei) is True Club, an exclusively live music
CURTEA BERARILOR Once upon a time the whole venue well worthy of your time (it’s owned and run by two
of the Curtea Sticlarilor was
was given over to artisans - espe- legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene, who have a track
cially glassmakers - from whence the name. Now only a record of delivering the goods). When the resident covers
few survive and no less than four bars have opened here. band or top local act isn’t performing
per forming you will find karaoke,
This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually
Berarilor (Brewers’
(Brewers’ Courtyard), though there is no brewing means that there is always something here for everyone.
done on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap Drinks are a decent price and there are plenty of them to
pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana.QC-6, Str. choose from.QC-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner with
Selari 9-11, M Piata Unirii, tel.
tel . (+4) 021 313
313 75 32, www.
w ww. Str. Selari), M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87, www.
curteaberarilor.com. Open 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed trueclub.ro. Open , Thu, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Fri 20:00 -
13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
the week. Live music on most weekend nights, as well as Open all day too, it has a terrace (or will, when the weather
all sorts of events during the week, from theme nights allows), it shows loads of live football and the comfy sofas
to theatre.QC-6, Str. Blănari 14, M Universitate, tel. for crashing on a bonus.QC-6, Str. Smardan 41, M Piata
(+4) 021 316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Open 10:30 - 05:00, Unirii, tel. (+4) 0729 05 62 54, www.clubcliche.ro. Open
Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00. 10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW
PEBW
FINNISH COCKTAIL & CLUB A little more chic and up-
FIRE CLUB A much-changed venue which over the past market than most other places in the Old Town, Finnish is
year or so has shed its shabby-chic look
lo ok and which has be- a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary
come a bigger, brighter and less smokey venue than ever Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital. The house
before. Still plays mainly rock for a crowd of the young and drink is of course Finlandia vodka, available in more variet-
not-so-young, and to be honest it is as good as ever. We ies than you ever thought possible, but there is more to this
have always liked the place and if you want to ‘go local’ place than vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne and beer. They
it is one of your better options in the Old Town. There is even have Guinness on draught. The music - usually provided
also now Fire Pub out the back (although the entrance is by a DJ - is as contemporary and as good as the design, the
from Strada Covaci): a small yet rather good boozer with crowd is a trendy one and we defy you not to enjoy yourself
a huge and very nice covered terrace/atrium.QC-6, Str. here.QC-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0753 57
Gabroveni 12, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0732 16 66 04, 82 09, www.finnish.ro. Open 13:30 - 05:00. PBW
www.fire.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00.
PBSW LA MUSE Last time we popped in we met up with almost
everyone we know in Bucharest. That’s the kind of place
this is: on the surface it looks posh and flash and out-of-
UPMARKET CLUBS your-league (the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard
CLICHE CLUB & LOUNGE Eternally popular club on as though her life depends on it) but it is in fact a down-
Strada Smardan which has become something of an Old to-earth, come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits
Town institution over the past couple of years. A modern from across the decades to a crowd a bit older than else-
and elegant place serving coffee and cocktails the music where, which can afford the prices of the drinks. We love
caters pretty much to all tastes and there is always soem it.QC-6, Str Lipscani 53, M Piata Unirii/Universitate,
kind of party going on, not the least of which is Friday tel. (+4) 0734 00 02 36, www.lamuse.ro. Open 09:00 -
night, when the place is rammed full of party people. 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PBW
THE VAUL
VAULTT Smooth. Smooth people, smooth vibes and
LATE NIGHT FOOD smooth cocktails. We love the (long) nights we spend in
this place, not least because you never know what to ex-
CALIF Besides serving decent standard kebabs, Calif pect on the music front: it could be a night of pop, a night
prides itself on also offering more than a few ‘healthy‘ of disco classics, a night of indie beats or a night of up-to-
options, as well as a number of vegetarian kebabs and the-minute clubby sounds. We suggest you take a chance
dishes They also do what we will happily admit is a very and delve inside. Chances are you will enjoy yourself.QC-
good lentil soup.QC-6, Str. Selari 19, MPiata Unirii, 6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0723 19
tel. (+40) 21 310 15 62, www.calif.ro. Open 24hrs. 99 77. Open 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
PNBW
CHICKEN STAFF
S TAFF KFC on
on the ground floor of Unirea
closes at 23:00, so instead get yourself here for your
late night/early morning chicken fix. They do superb OLD TOWN SIGHTS
pui la rotiserie : tasty chicken roasted slowly over a spit. BANCA NATIONALA A ROMANIEI
QC-6, Str. Smardan 31, M Piata Unirii. Open 11:00 The National Bank (BNR) stands on the site of one of the
- 05:00. most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban
Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various
DRISTOR KEBAP Legendary chain of kebab shops, things, from a pub, to an inn, to a dormitory for a nearby
which began in Dristor but has now spread city wide, girl’s school. After two fires gutted the building however,
even in to Old Town.QC-6, Str. Franceza 17, M Piata the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR,
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 315 55 40, www.dristorkebap. completed to the designs of French architects Cassien
ro. Open 24 hrs. Also at (C-7) B-dul Marasesti 42, Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a
Calea Vacaresti 391, B-dul Camil Ressu 1 and B-dul facade with Corinthian columns, and an ornate, enormous
Timisoara 26. central banking hall.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 25, M Universi-
tate.
GYROS THESSALONIKI In our opinion, this place
serves the best chicken kebab in Bucharest. It’s a regu- NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM �MUZEUL NA�
lar late-night haunt of ours and the queues speak for TIONAL DE ISTORIE�
themselves. Alongside the kebabs there are also sal- The beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neo-Clas-
ads, lamb dishes and sweets. Cheap too: it’s a winner. sical building that houses Romania’s National History Mu-
QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 2, M Piata Unirii. Open 24hrs. seum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of lo-
cal architect Alexandru Săvulescu. It originally served (until
MCDONALD’S The good news is McDonald’s has 1970) as the headquarters of Poşta Romană, the Romanian
finally brought breakfast to Romania, so that much postal service. The museum’s exhibitions are spread over
sought-after Sausage and Egg McMuffin can now be 60 display rooms, although the vast majority are currently
yours at most central Bucharest McDonald’s outlets. closed for renovation. The museum’s two most important
But only until 10:00, alas. We do wish they would ser ve collections, however, are very much open: the Lapidarium
them all day.QC-6, P-ta Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium includes stat-
Centre), M Piata Unirii, www.mcdonalds.ro. Open ues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present
07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. McDrive at (A-4) day Cernavoda and a full-scale replica of Trajan’s Column.
Str. Dr. Felix 8-10, (E-6) Sos. Mihai Bravu 307, Sos. The Romanian
Romanian Treasury
Treasury includes jewellery
jewellery from the time of
Pierre de Coubertine 3-5, (C-3) Str. Barbu Vacarescu the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian Crown
146-158 and Str. Brasov 23A all open 24hrs. Jewels. The bizarre statue on the museum’s steps allegedly
represents the emperor Trajan holding a wolf.QC-5, Calea
SHOPPING CENTRES
AFI PALACE COTROCENI One of Bucharest’s biggest
malls, and probably its best, with
wit h loads of top brand names
and the added attraction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice
skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller
coaster and children’s funfair.QB-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul
Timisoara, M Politehnica, www.aficotroceni.ro.
www.aficotroceni.ro. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
LIBRARIA BASTILIA
On Piata Romana, in a huge villa dating from 1913 this is
a fine bookshop with a cafe in the attic. Regularly hosts
With the exception of the five-star hotels listed in the options.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 00
Cream of the Crop category, the price bands used refer to 34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. 164 rooms.
the rack rate for a double room. PTHRUFGKDCW
EPOQUE
CREAM OF THE CROP Now here’s a hotel we have no problem in recommending.
ATHENEE PALACE HILTON Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque has a num-
Simply put, this has been one of Bucharest’s finest hotels ber of things going for it, not least its location on the edge
for 100 years. It is a living piece of the city’s history - it dates of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the city yet at
from 1914 and celebrates its centenary this year - and yet the same time offering the impression of a retreat. Rooms
behind its historic facade you will find a most modern are large and tastefully furnished, there are plenty of extras
place to stay. There is a wide range of rooms to choose (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and for what you
from: the best are those with views over Piata Revolutiei . get, the prices are a steal.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C,
Indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite dining and of tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.hotelepoque.ro. 44 rooms.
course this is the home of the English Bar : probably Bucha- PTHRUFLGKDCW
rest’s most famous bar.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. 272 rooms. GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL
POTHR6UFLGKDCW Making the very best
be st of a wonderful
wonderfu l building (which dates
from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, today’s Grand Hotel
CROWNE PLAZA BUCHAREST Continental is
is the result of more than two years of loving
Contemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucha- renovation and restoration. There’s marble at every turn,
rest offers all the reassuring global standards you would though do not think that modern touches are missing, for
expect of the brand, from first class accommodation to they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for ex-
world class facilities. With a renowned reputation for ample are state of the art. For the great location and for
individual and friendly service, the hotel can also offer a change from the big chains, it’s well worth trying out.
the greenest setting in the capital, surrounded as it is by QC-5, Calea Victoriei 56, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0372
beautifully maintained grounds. Can also boast a large 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. 59 rooms.
swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms PTHR6UFLGKDW
to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining
HOWARD JOHNSON GRAND PLAZA BUCHA�
REST HOTEL This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre
BUCHAREST MONOPOLY of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched
by the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of top-
We have long said that this should be the first thing on name designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the
any list of must-have Romanian souvenirs. The classic city, coming as it does with complimentary champagne,
board game has been given a local twist, the streets of and the dining opportunities in general here are excel-
lent: there is a wonderful (if expensive) Japanese restau-
London (or whichever other city you are familiar with) rant, Benihana, on site. Great views of the city from the
replaced with the streets of Bucharest. The cheapest upper floors. Note that the Howard Johnson is set to be-
property on the board is Rahova, while the most ex- come a Sheraton later this year.QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor
pensive is Bulevardul Primaverii . Found in most good 5-7, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, www.
toy shops and hypermarkets, it sells for around 90 lei. hojoplaza.ro. 285 rooms. POTHR6UFL
GKDW
68 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
INTERCONTINENTAL Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest
(complete with a swimming pool and - during the sum- LOCAL ART
mer, sun terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental
was the first major five star hotel to open in Romania, at Look out for craft fairs being held at the city’s better muse-
the beginning of the 191970s.
70s. Today it is one of many but re- ums in order to find some gorgeous naive art. The Peasant
mains something of a first choice for journalists and busi- Museum hosts regular such fairs, usually once a month.
ness people, many of whom have been loyal guests for Suvenir de Bucuresti,
Bucuresti, a small art gallery specialising in
decades.. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great
decades classic scenes of Bucharest always has a great selection
views of the city, there is first class dining in the building, of paintings for sale: find it on (C-5) Strada Academiei.
and the management is commendably hands-on. The Galateca on
Galateca on (C-5) Strada C. A. Rosetti is a gallery of ap-
new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city,
cit y, of- plied art, housed in the rather splendid University Li-
fering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meeting rooms, brary on Piata Revolutiei. Its shop sells fashion and ac-
internet, a library and an all round exclusive atmosphere. cessories from a number of top local designers.
Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for €35 per day.QC-
5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 2-4, M Universitate, tel. (+4)
021 310 20 20, www.intercontinental.com/bucharest. PREMIER PALACE South-west of the city centre in
257 rooms. POTHR6FLGKDCW the suburb of Ghencea (opposite Steaua Bucharest’s sta-
dium) is the Premier Palace, a luxurious place which of-
JW MARRIOTT BUCHAREST GRAND HOTEL fers what is without doubt the best spa in the city (and
To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies
occupies entrance to which is free for hotel guests). The rest of the
something of a palatial building that at first glance prob- hotel is fabulous too, with the big rooms all packed with
ably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bu- added extras, right down to the Salvatore Ferragamo
charest’s big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and cosmetics in the bathroom. Staff are superb and happy
its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as tax is to and from town.QB-dul Ghencea 134,
to arrange taxis
part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. tel. (+4) 031 407 60 00, www.premierpalace.ro. 82
Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing rooms. PTHFLGKDCW
a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining
options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD TRADE CENTER
city (we think).QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attra attraction
ction at
021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. 401 this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms
rooms. POTHR6UFLGKDCW boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are
separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-me-
NOVOTEL BUCHAREST CITY CENTRE terage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in
Few locations are better than this, right on fashionable Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed,
Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre
old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this ex- with sauna and massage available.QA-1, P-ta Montreal
act site until the British bombed it to next week during 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com.
the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of 203 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW
the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms
particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a RADISSON BLU A gleaming temple of steel and glass
big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei,
staying here.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 37B, M Universitate, the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucha-
tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. 258 rooms. rest hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes
POTHR6UFLGKDCW you as daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are
swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in which CAPITAL PLAZA
even some of the five star hotels lack pools, the Majestic’s Smart place at the northern edge of the city centre, about
makes it well worth that little bit extra cash.QB-4, Calea five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei. The rooms are big
Victoriei 38-40, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, and furnished in a modern style, with unobtrusive co-
www.ramadamajestic.ro.
ww w.ramadamajestic.ro. 111 ro oms. PTHRU
111 rooms. lours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good, and the range
FLGKDCW of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite restaurant
too, the 1880.QB-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel.
RAMADA PLAZA BUCHAREST (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. 95 rooms.
Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment PTHRUFLGKW
across the road, what you get here is a slightly bigger
room than at the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The DUKE
design of the place is nicely futuristic, and we loved the Now this place is central. A proverbial stone’s throw from
beds which we think are amongst the best in Bucharest. Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight
Free Wifi is a bonus, there is a good lobby bar and a de- spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past.
cent on site bistro.QB-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and showers,
549 30 00,
0 0, www.ramada
ww w.ramadaplazabucharest.ro
plazabucharest.ro.. 298 rooms. and there’s free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high
PHRUFGKW marks for their excellent mattresses.QC-4, B-dul Dacia
33, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 41 86, www.
hotelduke.ro. 37 rooms. PRGKW
€100-150
ANGELO AIRPORTHOTEL BUCHAREST The hotel RESIDENCE ARC DE TRIOMPHE Fantastic hotel in
closest to Bucharest’s Otopeni airport. The Angelo is oper- a good area of the capital, offering large, excellent value
ated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts , and its bright rooms and super services. There are little touches of
exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours abound in class all over the hotel that suggest they really care. The
all the rooms and the common areas. There is high speed wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as is the
Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre complete with sauna. newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi. The
Transport to and from the airpor
airportt is complimentary.
complimentar y. Great restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good international
buffet breakfast. QCalea Bucurestilor 283, tel. (+4) 021 cuisine.QA-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/
203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest.com. 177 rooms. (+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.residencehotels.com.ro. 35
PTHR6UFLGKDW rooms. PTHRLGKDW
CHARTER For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large
amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest ho-
tel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about €1 per square me-
tre. Close to the airport this place is perfect if you have an early
flight, though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes
or so to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match
anywhere, and at very low prices, we doubt anyone will be
complaining.QDrumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352
87 19, ww w.hotelcharter.ro. 21 rooms. PTRLGW
19, www.hotelcharter.ro.
UNDER €100
BOUTIQUE HOTEL MONACO A nice place on a
quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre
to be within walking distance. There is an elegance to the
decoration that suggests they’ve taken real time and ef-
fort over things, and the beds are large, comfortable and
covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs,
good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel should cost a
go od value for money.QC-
lot more than it does: seriously good
5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68, www.
hotelmonaco.ro. 8 rooms. PTLW
VILLAS CLEANERS
BUCHAREST BOUTIQUE
BOU TIQUE ACCOMMODATION
ACCOMMODATION EGNATE Professional cleaning service: apartments, hous-
An elegant, stylish
sty lish villa a short walk from Piata Unirii. There es, offices etc. They will even come and clear up after you
are two rooms, and one enormous apartment. All of the have had the builders in, and can take care of tricky things
accommodation is immaculately furnished to the highest such as marble and furniture.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu
standards of good taste. It is a real find this place, and one 10, tel. (+4) 0734 11 15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, office@
we can’t recommend enough. Impressively all children are egnate.ro,, www.egnate.ro
egnate.ro www.egnate.ro..
free if they share their parents’ room: we wish all Bucharest
hotels had this policy. Pets are welcome too, and break fast
is included in the price.QC-7, Str. Vitejescu 37, M Tinere- DENTISTS
tului, tel. (+4) 0760 29 66 30, www.bucharest-boutique- B.B. CLINIC � GERMAN DENTIST Unquestionably the
accommodation.ro. 3 rooms. PT6LW best dentist in the city. What’s more, you can bring the kids
too, as they now have a special room at the Dorobanti loca-
VILA 11 tion equipped especially for young’uns.QD-6, StrStr.. Ionescu
Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de Nord (one Gion 4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51,
51, www.germandentist.
block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 ro.. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies
ro
has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities and family (24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Doro-
suites available for backpackers and families of all ages. bantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56.
Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great breakfast
(included in the price) and are a wealth of inside info when
it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest. Prices from DRY CLEANERS
€20-54.QA-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, M Gara 5ASECQB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236
de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00, vila11bb@hotmail.com.
vila11bb@hotmail.com. 00 98, www.5asec.ro.
www.5asec.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
6 rooms. T6GW 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13, tel. (+4)
021 320 99 95; B-dul Alex. Serbanescu 60-64, tel. (+4)
021 891 98 44; Cora Alexandrei, Sos. Alexandrei 152, tel.
SHORT
SHO RT-TER
-TERMM RENTAL (+4) 021 776 91 21.
PHARMACIES
HELP NET QC-6, B-dul Unirii 27,
27, tel. (+4) 031 405 04
0 4 59,
www.helpnet.ro. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, tel.
www.helpnet.ro.
(+4) 031 405 04 79 and many other locations.
SENSIBLU QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 233 89 61,
www.sensiblu.com.. Open 24hrs. Also at (C-5) B-dul N. Bal-
www.sensiblu.com
cescu 7, tel. (+4) 021 305 73 14 and many other locations.
l ocations.
MARKET VALUES
€1 is currently worth around 4.44 lei. A pint of local
beer in a central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you
around 8 lei (€1.82). A McDonald’s Big Mac costs
costs 9.90
lei (€2.25), while a loaf of plain bread in a local store is
1.20 lei (€0.27). A packet of 20 international brand ciga-
rettes costs 14.50 lei (€3.29), and one litre of standard
unleaded petrol 6.17 lei (€1.40). A one-trip ticket for
public transport ticket costs 1.30 lei (€0.29).
Romanian National
Rugby Stadium
Arc de Triumf
C Romanian
Television
evision (TVR)
a
s
a
V
i c
ot
r
u m f
T r i u
c
r l d e
c u l
c e A
d e n
i d
i
R e s o
o n d
o M
l o
l
c o l
P i c
Nonna Mia
Geology
Museum
Peasant
Museum
Grigore
Antipa
Museum Starlight
Children’s
Emergency Hospital
Marshal Garden
Minerva
George Enescu
Museum
Duke
Ibis Gara
Moxa Howard Johnson
de Nord Hello
Grand Plaza
Golden Tulip
Yeshoah Tova
Northern Bucharest
Circus Globus
Emergency Hospital
Institutull Ma
Institutu tei Bals
Matei
Piata Obor
Dan
Central & Southern Bucharest
InterContinental
Rembrandt
Tania
uropa Royale
Unirea
Street register
13 Septembrie, Calea B6 Cornescu, Str. C3 Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5 G-ral., Str. C5
21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5 Cotiturii, Str. A5 Lacatusului, Str. C2 Pretorienilor, Str. A6
Academiei, Str. C5 Covaci, Str. C6 Lacul Tei, Bd. D3 Putul Cu Plopi, Str. B5
Alecsandri Vasile, Str. B4 Crisana, Str. A5 Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4 Putul Lui Zamfir, Str. B3
Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4 Crisului, Str. C6 Lantului, Str. A6 Quinet Edgar, Str. C5
Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4 Cronicarilor, Str. C3 Lascar Vasile, Str. C5 Quito, Piata B3
Aman Theodor, Str. B5 Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4 Lazar Gheorghe, Str. B5 Rabat, Str. B3
Amman, Str. C3 Dacia, Bd. D4 Lebedei, Str. A3 Radu Voda, Str. C6
Amzei, Intr. B4 Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. B4 Libertatii, Bd. B6 Ramniceanu Naum, Str. C3
Apolodor, Str. B6 David Emmanuel, Str. C4 Libertatii, Piata B7 Regina Elisabeta, Bd. C5
Argentina, Str. B3 Davila Carol, Dr., Str A6 Lipova, Str. A5 Regina Maria, Bd. C6
Arghezi Tudor, Str. C5 Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee C6 Lipscani, Str. C6 Revolutiei, Piata B5
Atelierului, Str. A4 Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt. Lisabona, Str. B3 Rigas, Intr. B5
Atena, Str. B3 av., Str B3 Lister, Dr., Str. A6 Roma, Intr. B3
Balaban Emil, Str. C4 Dianei, Str. C5 Londra, Str. B3 Roma, Str. B3
Balcescu Nicolae, Bd. C5 Doamna Oltea, Str. C3 Lupu Dionisie, Str. C5 Romana, Piata B4
Baniei, Str. C6 Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str. B5 Luterana, Str. B5 Rosetti C.a., Piata C5
Banului, Str. B5 Dorobanti, Calea B3 Macedoniei, Str. A5 Rosetti C.a., Str. C5
Baratiei, Str. C6 Dorobanti, Piata B3 Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5 Rosetti Maria, Str. C5
Batistei, Str. C5 Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6 Magiresti, Str. A4 Rossini Gioachino, Str. C3
Berna, Str. B3 Drobeta, Str. C4 Maltopol, Str. A4 Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5
Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5 Duca Gheorghe, Bd. A4 Mamulari, Str. C6 Sapientei, Str. B6
Berzei, Str. A4 Dumbrava Rosie, Str. C4 Manolescu Grigore, Str. A3 Sarandy Frosa, Str. A3
Biserica Amzei, Str. B4 Eforie, Str. C5 Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4 Scarlatescu, Str. A3
Biserica Enei, Str. C5 Eftimiu Victor, Intr. B5 Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5 Schitul Magureanu, Bd. B5
Bitolia, Intr. B3 Elie Radu, Str. B5 Masaryk Thomas, Str. C5 Scoala Floreasca, Str. C3
Blanari, Str. C6 Eminescu Mihai, Intr. C4 Mendeleev D.i., Str. C4 Scoalei, Str. C5
Blanc Louis, Arh., Str. B3 Eminescu Mihai, Str. D4 Mexic, Str. B3 Selari, Intr. C6
Blanduziei, Str. C5 Enescu George, Piata B5 Michelet Julles, Str. C4 Selari, Str. C6
Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str. C4 Enescu George, Str. B5 Micle Veronica, Str. A4 Sepcari, Str. C6
Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3 Episcopiei, Str. C5 Mihai Voda, Str. B6 Sevastopol, Intr. B4
Bratianu I.c., Bd. C6 Eroii Sanitari, Bd. A5 Mihalache Ion, Bd. A3 Sevastopol, Str. B4
Brazilia, Str. B3 Eroilor, Bd. A5 Mihnea Voda, Str. C6 Sfanta Vineri, Str. C6
Brebu, Str. E3 Eroilor, Piata A6 Mille Constantin, Str. B5 Sfantul Constantin, Str. B5
Brezoianu Ion, Str. B5 Felix Iacob, Dr., Str. A4 Millo Matei, Str. B5 Sfantul Elefterie, Str. A6
Brutus M.i., Str. B6 Filipescu Nicolae, Str. C5 Mincu Ion, Arh., Str. B3 Sfintii Apostoli, Str. B6
Bruxelles, Str. B3 Finlanda, Str. B3 Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6 Sfintii Voievozi, Piata B4
Budisteanu Constantin, Floreasca, Cale C3 Miron Costin, Str. A4 Sfintii Voievozi, Str. B4
G-ral, Str. B5 Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str. C5 Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str. Slanic, Str. C5
Buiestrului, Str. C3 Franceza, Str. C6 B6 Slatineanu Ion, Str. C4
Buzesti, Intr. B4 Frumoasa, Intr. B4 Monetariei, Str. B3 Slavesti, Str. C4
Buzesti, Piata A4 Frumoasa, Str. B4 Mosilor, Cale D4 Smardan, Str. C6
Buzesti, Str. B4 Furtuna Stefan, Intr. A5 Moxa Mihail, Str. B4 Sofia, Str. B3
Buzoiani Iani, Str. C2 Gabroveni, Str. C6 Muresanu Andrei, Str. B3 Stahi Constantin, Str. B5
Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6 Gara De Nord, Piata A4 Musatescu Tudor, Piata B5 Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6
Caderea Bastiliei, Intr. B4 Gara De Nord, Str. A4 Natiunile Unite, Bd. B6 Stavropoleos, Str. C6
Caderea Bastiliei, Str. B4 Georgescu George, Str. B6 Natiunile Unite, Piata B6 Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea D4
Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5 Ghica Ion, Str. C5 Neculce Ion, Str. A3 Stirbei Voda, Intr. B5
Calin Ion, Erou, Str. C4 Golescu Dinicu, Bd. A4 Negri Costache, Str. A6 Stirbei Voda, Str. B5
Cameliei, Str. A4 Golescu Nicolae, Str. C5 Negruzzi Iacob, Str. A4 Tirana, Str. B3
Carada Eugeniu, Str. C6 Greceanu Paul, Str. C4 Negulescu Stefan, Str. C3 Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4
Caragea Ioan Voda, Str. C4 Grigorescu Eremia, Str. C4 Occidentului, Str. B4 Tokio, Str. B3
Caragiale I.l., Str. C5 Grivitei, Cale B4 Oslo, Str. B3 Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4
Caragiale I.l.,intr. C5 Gusti Dimitrie, Str. A5 Ostasilor, Str. B5 Transilvaniei, Str. B5
Carol I, Bd. D5 Gutenberg, Str. B5 Otetari,str. C5 Tudor Stefan, Intr. C3
Catargiu Lascar, Bd. B4 Haga, Str. B3 Paris, Str. B3 Tunari, Str. C4
Cavafii Vechi, Str. C6 Hagi Moscu Maria, Str. A3 Parvan Vasile, Str. B5 Unirii, Bd. C6
Cazzavillan Luigi, Str. B5 Halelor, Str. C6 Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str. A6 Unirii, Piata C6
Cernat Alexandru, Haret Spiru, Str. B5 Patriarhiei, Str. C6 Universitatii, Piata C5
G-ral, Str. A4 Hasdeu Iulia, Intr. B4 Petrescu Camil, Intr. C4 Vacarescu Barbu, Str. C3
Cioranu Mihai, Str. A6 Hasdeu Iulia, Str. B4 Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4 Venezuela, Str. B3
Clucerului, Str. A3 Horatiu, Str. B4 Piata Amzei, Str. B4 Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5
Clunet, Dr., Str. A6 Hristo Botev, Bd. C5 Pitar Mos, Str. C5 Victoriei, Calea B4
Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str. Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4 Poenaru Bordea, Str. B6 Victoriei, Piata B4
B4 Icoanei, Str. C4 Poiana Narciselor, Str. B5 Visarion I.c., Str. B4
Coanda Henri, Str. B4 Ilfov, Str. B6 Politie, Str. B6 Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3
Cobalcescu Grigore, Iorga Nicolae, Intr. B4 Polizu Gheorghe, Str. A4 Vlaicu Aurel, Str. C4
Prof., Str. B5 Iorga Nicolae, Str. B4 Polona, Str. C4 Vulcanescu Mircea, Str. B4
Coltei, Str. C5 Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str. A6 Poni Petru, Str. A4 Washington, Str. B3
Constantin Daniel, Str. B4 Iulian Stefan, Str. A3 Popa Tatu, Str. B5 Witting, Str. A4
Constitutiei, Piata B6 Izvor, Str. A6 Popescu-gopo Ion, Str. A6 Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4
Conta Vasile, Str. C5 Justitiei, Str. B6 Povernei, Str. B4 Zalomit Z. Ion. Str. B5
Coposu Corneliu, Bd. C6 Kiseleff P.d., Bd. B3 Praga, Str. B3 Zola Emile, Str. B3
Coposu Corneliu, Piata D6 Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5 Praporgescu David,