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Catbalogan, the capital of Samar Province, was founded in 1596 by Spanish missionaries. This
port city has a long history, though apart from the odd colonial-era church its sights are few.
Nevertheless, it's a possible base for exploring the interior of Samar, with its spelunking,
climbing, birdwatching and canyoning opportunities. From Catbalogan's piers you can spot
about 30 different islands offshore, plus some giant peaks on Biliran Island off Leyte.
Travelers only tend to use the city as a point of arrival or departure.
LOCAL HERITAGE
Pre Historical Background
Most of the islands across Catbalogan were part of the Samar mainland, and much of what is now
the bottom of Maqueda bay stood above water, an alluvial plain, and a few thousand years ago.
It went underwater. As the rocks tell on its Samar arc’s western edge down warped; resulting in
a vertical fault running from northwest to southeast “between and beyond” Calbayog City
and Catbalogan. This rotated thirty degrees clockwise. The glacial melting raised the sea level by
ten meters at the highest. The water rose fairly rapidly in geological terms. By 1400 BC
Catbalogan’s topological setting was complete: a narrow crescent of coastal plain bounded by
the setting was complete: a narrow crescent of coastal plain bounded by the Antiao River on the
north, by an arc of hills on the east and the south, by Maqueda bay on the west. On the newly
risen waters, new islands that in time would be named now as Barangays under the Municipality
of Catbalogan namely – Cabugawan, Buri, Darahuway, Basiao and Majaba. Lithic artifacts like
flake blades and burins had been dug up on some of them, mostly notably from Buad or
Municipality of Zumarraga now, where the digging turned up enough evidence to indicate a
stone tool industry. From Buad came Catbalogan’s first settlers, according to legend. For a fact,
the first Catbalogan’s were typical of the early peoples in the Maqueda Bay coastal area, who
often buried their dead in a jars along with “old jewelry, pottery and other vessels of antiquity”,
which the 17th century Jesuit chronicler said were found “not infrequently” in hidden grave sites,
like those dug up in 1922-1924 near Catbalogan. Thus, confirming that Catbalogan is an
old settlement.
Legendary Origins
It is said that Catbalogan was originally known as KATBALAUGAN, after a shrub called “balaug”
that used to thrive along its seashore and the sandy banks at the mouth of the Antiao River.
Before the coming of the Spaniards, fishermen from the Island of Buad (now Zumarraga), whose
custom was to set out fish at the start of the dark nights of the “Katdulom” phase of the
month’s cycle and return only when they ended, would run their boats up this balaug – lined
shore of the Samar mainland to rinse their fishing nets (pagsawsaw hanpocot) in the Antiao River
and, having hung the nets out to dry on the shrubs, take a rest. It was just a place to lie down
but a good one, for later those fishermen permanently settled with their families in
the Kabalaugan: Balaug Land.
In short, before the once uninhabited place metamorphosed into a small settlement, then to a
pueblo and today a booming town, it started with a simple and humble beginning purely
influenced and dictated by Mother Nature – its God’s given geography. The uninhabited place
was a coastal plain and on its interior side was plain to moderately rolling and steep. And it is
embraced or surrounded by the Marine Rich Maqueda Bay (the Fish Basket of the Region) and it
is the place where the fresh water of the huge Antiao River meets the calm seawater of
the Maqueda Bay. The place became a safe haven for seafarers, fishermen and sailors for a
temporary mooring and sanctuary to take a break from long sea journey, katdulom, bad weather
and above all a refuge from marauding Moro Pirates. During that period, the place was teeming
with moored small and big sailboats when the northwest and southwest monsoons blew during
the month of July, August and September – “Habagat,” where the weather is almost unfriendly
to small fishermen.
Moro Raids
1600 – 1800. Two centuries of Moro raids ravage the coast of Samar. Every year the Moros came
to plunder the towns, find wives; carry off men and women to be sold in Bornean Slave markets.
Catbalogan was not spared. But the chain of moro raids inflicted in the whole Samar Island during
that period, Catbalogan fortification and defenses was the most feared by the Camucones or
Moro Raiders.
Brisk Trading
1850s as the Moro raids die off, commerce revives, and exports from Catbalogan to Manila and
Cebu grow. Varied products from the whole Island of Samar are sold to Catbalogan merchants
and transshipped by bulk directly to Manila and Cebu.
The trading was so rapid, that in 1872 a wharf for steamships and mail service was proposed in
Catbalogan. 1893 two steamships from Luzon call the port of Catbalogan every fifteen days.
Merchants who were mostly Chinese mestizos were handling most of the trading then.
The 24th of August is the city’s Fiesta in honor of St. Bartholomew, the Patron Saint of
Catbaloganons. I had the chance to explore this wonderful capital city of Samar and decided to
write an article about it.
Whether you’re a Catbaloganon or a tourist who wants to explore this beautiful city, here are
12 things to do or places to visit within Catbalogan in no particular order.
1. Visit Catbalogan City Hall and see this unique Monument of Rizal.
The monument of Dr. Jose Rizal located at the park in front of Catbalogan City
Hall is probably the most unique Rizal monument in the world. This monument,
representing a bust of Rizal on the top of his two novels, Noli Me Tangere and El
Filibusterismo, carried by three muscular men who are all naked except for a leaf that
covers their frontal private parts, was sculptured by Miguel Alcazar, a native of
Catbalogan.
The Pieta Park is located adjacent to St. Bartholomew Church. The park
has a statue of The Pieta, a statue that depicts the body of Jesus on the lap of
his mother Mary after the Crucifixion. It serves as a memorial to honor
Catbaloganons and four thousand-plus other who perished in the tragic collision
of MV Doña Paz and the oil tanker MT Vector on December 20, 1987.
If you prefer a seaside resort and feel the breeze of Maqueda Bay, then
you might love Juvie’s Resort & Restaurant at Brgy. San Roque Buri Island. The
resort offers a restaurant built at the beach and a swimming pool overlooking
Maqueda Bay. Juvie’s Resort also offers various accommodations ranging from
native types villas and nipa hut cottages if you like to stay overnight or even
longer.
With more than 100 caves that have been officially indexed and more than
a thousand caves still to be explored, Samar Island posed to be the caving
capital of the Philippines. Located at Barangay Kawayan, the Central Cave is one
of the spectacular caves in Samar. Getting inside the Central Cave will give
visitors and adventure lovers the opportunity to see the stunning stalagmites,
stalactites and other natural formations inside the cave. For a great and safe
caving experience, you can reach cave master Joni Abesamis Bonifacio of
Trexplore.
11. Buy dried fish, dried squid and rock oyster for pasalubong.
You can also buy those products at the public market or even at the
terminal but as far as I remember, during my childhood days, we buy dried fish,
dried squid and sisi (rock oyster contained in bottles) at Brgy. Ubanon. As
Catbalogan is famous for its fishing industry, those marine products could be
your best pasalubong for your friends and loved ones.
Flavors of Catbalogan: A Tasty Encounter with Tamalos at
Orlando's Grill
"You have to try Tamalos." I've been told quite a number of times since I arrived at Samar for the
Department of Tourism's Secret Kitchens of Samar Kulinarya Tour not to miss this unique dish. And I'm
glad I did...
If there's one dish that distinguishes the local cuisine of Catbalogan and Samar, it's the iconic Tamalos.
Tracing its roots back to the Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade during Spanish colonial times, the Tamalos is
the unique and savory local version of Mexican tamales, with slabs of fork tender pork belly slathered with
rich peanut sauce on a soft rice flour base, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed for hours. Pampanga,
Batangas, and Bulacan have their versions of the tamales, but Samar's tamalos is in a class of its own. It's
one of many memorable and tasty encounters during my Secret Kitchens of Samar Kulinarya Tour with
the Department of Tourism and the Catbalogan City Tourism Office, and it remains one of my lasting
impressions in #CaptivatingCatbalogan...
Located high above the city proper along the new Diversion Road, Orlando's Grill offers breathtaking
views of the city and Maqueda Bay. Time your visit during magic hour, and wait for the sunset. And you'll
be glad you did. Have a refreshing beverage or a cold beer and enjoy one of nature's daily shows
overlooking the bay...
An early and hearty breakfast of traditional local dishes and a refreshing snack at Calbayog kicked off my
Secret Kitchens of Samar Kulinarya Tour (see my earlier posts, Secret Kitchens of Samar Kulinarya Tour:
Flavors of Calbayog and Flavors of Calbayog: Chillin' at Rebelitos Refreshments), followed by a sumptuous
and comforting lunch and a cool break at Catbalogan (check out my previous posts, Flavors of Catbalogan:
Comforting Cuisine at City Grill and Flavors of Catbalogan: Cooling Down with the Locals at Tina's Garden),
but the day was far from over. The Department of Tourism Eastern Visayas and the Catbalogan City
Tourism Office prepared yet another feast featuring Samar's famous Tamalos. And they picked the perfect
spot. High up the new Diversion Road overlooking the city's seaport and panoramic Maqueda Bay,
Orlando's Grill offers local cuisine with grilled dishes as their specialty. But for tonight's dinner, Samar's
very own Tamalos is on the menu.
Our sunset dinner began with Orlando Grill's Kinilaw, with fresh fish marinated in coconut milk, local lime
and chili topped with red onions and tomatoes. Samar's bountiful marine resources makes it one of the
country's leading fish exporting regions, and seafood plays a vital role in the province's economy, culture,
and culinary heritage. You don't have to complicate the day's freshest catch, and the kinilaw is the best way
to enjoy the natural briny sweetness of seafood with its pure and clean flavors. The delicate notes of the
fish are kicked up by the coconut lining your palate with its creamy texture, punctuated by the sharp flavors
of the local lime and chili. Just perfect.
The traditional Queseo was also served, a creamy local cottage cheese or kesong puti made from
carabao's milk mixed with local vinegar for a creamy sourness. Often paired with bread, the queseo is also
great as is with some slices of fresh tomatoes.
The local Pancit adds a celebratory vibe to our feast at Orlando's Grill, with noodles cooked in soy sauce
topped with vegetables, seafood and pork. Filipino cuisine is a melting pot of diverse cultures and
influences, evolving and integrating its unique flavors in the local mainstream.
But you can't have enough of Samar's fresh seafood, and Orlando Grill served up one of their signature
specialties. The Grilled Malasugi, fresh and succulent local blue marlin, perfectly grilled. Tender and juicy
with a light charred outer layer for that smoky hint, the grilled malasugi's delicate flavors are followed by a
subtle sweet hint. This is pure freshness on a plate.
Orlando's Grill's Pork Sisig, with tender pork mask and cheeks, is indulgently rich, with the egg adding yet
another layer of richness. Pure pork love.
Next, a trifecta of pork dishes were served, starting with Catbalogan's version of the Pork Humba, tender
pork cooked in a dark and rich soy-based sauce with quail eggs, peanuts, and tausi. The savory richness
of the pork is layered by both sweet and salty notes that's just perfect with steamed white rice. The region's
distinct pairing of contrasting flavors once again becomes apparent with the pork humba, and a second
serving of steamed white rice is always a sure thing with this dish.
And here she is, Samar's very own Tamalos. A fragrant aroma rises along with the steam as you unwrap
the banana leaves. The thick peanut sauce glistens revealing slabs of pork belly and slivers of pork fat
underneath laid on soft rice flour. The dark and creamy peanut sauce delivers a refreshing sweetness
capped by a soothing heat from the chili, so flavorful almost like a traditional kare-kare. But its the fork
tender pork belly and pork fat that just makes this dish special. The blend of savory pork and the equally
rich peanut sauce is a perfect match, with the soft rice completing the dish. It's comforting and satisfying, a
meal in itself. And you can only find this in Samar. It's the perfect ending to cap my first day of the Secret
Kitchens of Samar Kulinarya Tour with the Department of Tourism and the Catbalogan City Tourism Office.
But there's more, tomorrow is a whole new day to discover even more regional flavors in
#CaptivatingCatbalogan...
Orlando's Grill is located along the new Diversion Road, Catbalogan City Proper, Catbalogan City, Samar.
Source:
https://faq.ph/top-12-things-to-do-in-catbalogan-city/
http://dude4food.blogspot.com/2017/04/flavors-of-catbalogan-tasty-encounter.html
http://www.catbalogan.gov.ph/for-visitors/local-heritage/