Sikander Abbas Basra

 Plating is a technique of simultaneous knitting

with two or more yarns differing in colour,
material, properties etc. to produce some special
effect on fabric surface.
 A plated structure contains loops composed of
two or more yarns, often with differing physical
properties.

2
Surface Interest

Colour Pattern

Open Work Lace(structures)

Modification in wearing Properties

3
 The yarn positioned nearest to the needle hook
shows on the reverse side of the fabric
 Position of the yarn is also determined by the tension
developed on the yarn inside knitting zone
 Tension development depends on the elastic property
i.e. modulus of the yarn

4
 Technical back
 Yarn fed nearer to the needle hook, tension is higher near to the needle
hook so the yarn used for this purpose normally have considerable modulus.
Generally, a coarser yarn.
 Technical face
 It is the second yarn and positioned higher at some distance from the
needle. Mostly fine yarn is fed at lower level

5
 All the yarns are supplied separately to the same needle hook through
their own guides in order to influence their respective position relative to
the technical face surface of the fabric
 Some yarn becomes more prominent in some zones in one surface and
the other yarn becomes more prominent in certain zones or in other
face.

6
 Generally high modulus yarn is subjected to higher tension and goes to the
back of the fabric
 In Nylon-Cotton socks, cotton goes inside and nylon remains on the outer
surface, as a result both comfort and durability are achieved
 Plating requires special curvature on the needle hook, plating angle hooks are
preferred.
 The resultant count of two or more yarns is to be considered in Count-Gauge
relationship.
 In spite of every effort, it may be difficult to achieve perfect plating.
7
 Perfect Plating
 Perfect plating is a plating in which flash of yarn on one surface is not
appeared on the other surface of the fabric and vice versa.
 The most common plating is achieved by using two yarns and they are so
chosen that the resultant count is congruent to the gauge so that the
underneath yarn does not show or ‘flash’ onto the surface, is difficult to
achieve with yarns that have a circular cross-section and variable physical
properties
8
 Reverse Plating
 The two yarns are caused to change their positions at the needle head by
controlled movement of specially designed sinkers or yarn feed guides
 Sectional Plating
 The ground yarn knits continuously across the full width while the plating
carrier tubes, set lower into needles, supply yarn into reciprocating
movement to a particular group of needles

9
 By controlling yarn tension
 Angle of feed
 If the two yarns are of similar count, they should be approximately half the
normal yarn count for that gauge of machine.
 As the yarns slide along the underside of a normally-curved needle hook,
they may roll over each other and thus destroy their plating relationship; for
this reason, needles with specially shaped hooks for plating are often
employed.
10
 Comfort properties
 Comfort may include sense of physical, psychological and spiritual ease
 TYPES OF COMFORT
 Thermo-physiological comfort
 It involves transport of heat and moisture through a fabric.
 Sensorial Comfort:
 It involves neural sensations when textile comes into contact with skin.

11
TYPES OF COMFORT
 Body movement Comfort
 Ability of a textile to allow freedom of movement reduces burden and body
shaping as required.
 Aesthetic Comfort
 It involves subjective perception of clothing to the eye, hand, ear and nose
which contributes a overall well-being of the wearer.

12
Variables of Comfort
 Thermal properties, air permeability and water vapor transmission
properties are very crucial to human comfort
 Fiber type, yarn variables such as yarn count, yarn twist and fabric
structure also affect comfort properties but most important role is played
by fiber type and fabric structure.

13
 Thermal Resistance
 Thermal resistance increases as the face yarn tex increases( Yarn becomes
courses)
 Thermal resistance increases as the thickness of fabric increases because the
thickness influence porosity and as a result fabric volume increases and
amount of air trap increases.

14
Thermal conductivity
 Thermal conductivity is inversely linked with the face yarn’s linear
density. Thermal conductivity increases as the yarn linear density of face
yarn decreases.
 Thermal conductivity is also linked with thermal resistance. As the
thermal resistance decrease, thermal conductivity increases.

15
Thermal absorptivity
 Depends upon the contact temperature of two materials and is the objective
measurement of warm cool feelings of the fabric.
 Thermal absorptivity is also directly linked with the yarn linear density of face
yarn.
 Increase in face yarn linear density results in increase in thermal absorptivity,
suggesting that the fabrics knitted with coarser yarns would be perceived
cooler on initial skin contact, irrespective of the fibre types. Fabrics knitted
with coarser yarns give tighter constructions as suggested by higher values of
tightness factor and thus give a cool feeling on initial skin contact.
16
Air Permeability
 Air permeability (AP) is described as the rate of air flow passing
perpendicularly through known area under a prescribed air pressure
differential between the two surfaces of material.
 Air permeability of textile materials depends on yarn, fabric constructional
variables and bulk properties particularly thickness, aerial density and porosity.
 Spacing of yarns is an important parameter influencing openness of fabric
structure since air flow takes place through inter yarn pores
17
Air Permeability
 Air permeability is observed to decrease as the face yarn linear density
increases from 29.5 tex to 59.1 tex
 The observations may be attributed to increase in thickness and mass per
square meter of fabrics knitted with coarser yarns, irrespective of the fibre type
 The higher the thickness and mass per square meter the more is the resistance
to passage of air through fabric and hence the reduced values of air
permeability for the test fabrics.
18
Thanks
Questions???
Sikander Abbas Basra 12/03/2018 19