Cancun & The Yucatan (DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides) PDF

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4ULUM traveldk.com 10 Insider tips for every visitor Left Xel-Ha Center left Valladolid Center right Blue Parrot, Playa del Carmen Far right Tulum ruins
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TOP 10
CANCUN
AND THE
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Cancun_new.indd 1 17/7/08 12:24:34

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Contents
Left Codz Poop (Palace of Masks), Kabah Center Ek-Balam Right Tin-roofed house, San Felipe
Contents
Yucatán’s Top 10
Cancún 8
Produced by Blue Island, London
Cozumel 10
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound by South China
Printing Co. Ltd., China
Playa del Carmen and
First American Edition, 2003 Xcaret 12
09 10 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by Isla Mujeres 16
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street,
New York, New York 10014
Tulum 18
Copyright 2003, 2009 © Dorling Kindersley
Limited, London
Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2007, 2009 Sian Ka’an Biosphere
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under
copyright reserved above, no part of this publication
Reserve 20
may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by Chichén Itzá 22
any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise), without the prior written
,/.$/..%79/2+
-%,"/52.%-5.)#(!.$$%,()
permission of both the WWWDKCOM
copyright owner and the above
Mérida 26
publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by
Uxmal 28
Dorling Kindersley Limited
A Catalog record for this book is available from
Campeche 34
the Library of Congress
ISSN 1479-344X Moments in Yucatán’s
ISBN 978-0-75664-097-2
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of
History 36
quality or popularity is implied.
All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of Popular Mayan Ruins 38
roughly equal merit.
We’re trying to be cleaner and greener: Colonial Towns 40
• we recycle waste and switch things off
• we use paper from responsibly managed
Churches 42
forests whenever possible
• we ask our printers to actively reduce
water and energy consumption
Beaches 44
• we check out our suppliers’ working
conditions – they never use child labour Diving Reefs 46
Find out more about our values and
best practices at www.dk.com
Wildlife Reserves 48
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of
going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for
any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling
Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL.
Cover: Front – 4Corners Images: SIME/Schmid Reinhard c; Hemispheres Images: Bertrand Gardel main.
Spine – DK Images: Linda Whitwam b. Back – DK Images: Demetrio Carrasco cla; Linda Whitwam ca, cra.
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Contents
Left Mayan ruins tour Centre Hotel Zone, Cancún Right Waterside restaurants, Cancún
Eco-Parks and Streetsmart

Theme Parks 50 Planning Your Trip 114
Cenotes and Caves 52 Arriving in the Yucatán 115
Places To Get Away Getting Around Tips 116
From It All 54
Sources of Information 117
Sports and Activities 56
Banking and
Attractions for Children 58
Communication 118
Nightspots 60
Security and Health Tips 119
Live Attractions 62
Things to Avoid 120
Traditional Festivals 64
Tips for the Disabled 121
Dishes of the Yucatán 68
Shopping Tips 122
Restaurants 70
Budget Tips 123
Around the Yucatán Tours and Special
Cancún and North 74 Interests 124
Cozumel and South 86 Eating and Drinking Tips 125
Central Heartland 96 Places to Stay 126
The West 104 Index 134
Left Xcaret Mayan Village Right Campeche
Key to abbreviations
Adm admission charge payable Air con air conditioning C/ calle (road)
TT-CY_002-003-UKContents.indd 3 3
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TT-CY_004-005_Opener.indd 4 1/12/06 11:37:16 AM
THE
YUCATÁN’S
TOP 10
Highlights of the
THE YUCATÁN’S TOP 10

Yucatán
6–7
Cancún
8–9
Cozumel
10–11
Playa del Carmen
and Xcaret
12–15
Isla Mujeres
16–17
Tulum
18–19
Sian Ka’an
Biosphere Reserve
20–21
Chichén Itzá
22–25
Mérida
26–27
Uxmal
28–31
Campeche
34–35
Top 10 of Everything
36–71
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Highlights of the Yucatán

Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula has a special atmosphere and an immense
variety of attractions, including some of the world’s best
beaches and diving areas. The modern, glittering resorts
The Yucatán’s Top 10
of the east coast’s “Mayan Riviera” lie alongside charming

old Spanish Colonial towns, sleepy Mayan villages, and
the awesome remains of ancient civilizations.
Chacmool, Chichén Itzá
San Felipe
exi co
of M Dzilam
Gulf de Bravo Yalsihon
Progreso Telchac Santa Clara

Panaba
Sisal Dzidzantun
Tiz
Dzibilchaltún Motul Temax Tixbacab
Hunucma Conkal
Mérida 8 Izamal Xuilub
Uman Tunkas
Acanceh Kantunil
Celestún
Libre Unión Pisté
Yaxcopoíl Huhi
Maxcanu Sotuta
Cancún Telchaquillo 7
! Mexico’s biggest resort has 23 km Muna
Mama Yaxcaba Chichén
Itzá
(14 miles) of dazzling white sand Ticul
Cantamayec
beaches, lavish hotels, every kind of

Uxmal 9 YUCATÁN
Chunhuas Emiliano Tixholop Tepich
restaurant, and attractions from water Zapata Tekax
parks to giant nightclubs for 24-hour Peto
Tenabo
entertainment (see pp8–9).
Bolonchén
CAMPECHE de Rejón Santa
Rosa
Campeche 0 Chencoyi Nohalal
Hopelchen
Candelaria
Nohyaxché
Chunhuhub
Haltunchen Car
Dzibalchen
Chan Santa
Cruz Poniente
50 miles 0 km 50
@ Cozumel
The divers’ favorite, with over 20
coral reefs that are enjoyed by first-time
snorkelers and experienced divers alike.
Onshore there are fine beaches and
gleaming jewelry stores (see pp10–11).
£ Playa
Carmen
del
The trendiest spot on

the Riviera, with a
more small-town $ Isla Mujeres
A laid-back
scale than Cancún, Caribbean island with a
superb swimming beachcomber style. It
and snorkeling, and is surrounded by rich
an ever-buzzing night- diving reefs and fishing
life (see pp12–15). grounds (see pp16–17).
Previous pages The Mayan ruins of Tulum
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Sian Ka’an
Reserve ^
This almost uninhab-
ited expanse of lakes,
reefs, lagoon, man-
% Tulum groves, and forest is

Here, one of the most spectacular home to jaguars,
Mayan ruins perches on a crag over- monkeys, and mil-
looking palm-lined sands and relaxed lions of birds and rare
cabaña hotels (see pp18–19). plants (see pp20–21).
hén Itzá
San Felipe Río Lagartos
El Cuyo Isla Holbox
Dzilam
de Bravo Yalsihon Chiquilá
Boca Iglesia & Chichén Itzá
The most awe-
Santa Clara
Colonia Isla inspiring of all Mayan
zantun
Panaba
Yucatán Zona Mujeres 4 cities, Chichén’s pyramids
Tizimin Agricola Puerto Juárez
loom over huge plazas,
Temax Tixbacab Kantunil Kin Leona
Vicario
1 Cancún intricately aligned with the
Calotmul
Izamal Xuilub
Xcan
movements of the sun
Kantunil
Tunkas Nuevo Xcan
Puerto Morelos
and stars (see pp22–5).
Temozón
Libre Unión Pisté Punta Maroma
X-Catzim
Playa del
illo Sotuta
7 Valladolid Carmen 3 San Miguel
Yaxcaba Chichén de Cozumel
Itzá Cobá Puerto
Cantamayec
Hondzonot
Aventuras
2
CATÁN Cozumel
Tixholop Tepich
kax QUINTANA 5 Tulum
Peto
San ROO Caribbean
Ramón Sea
Santa
Rosa Señor
alal Punta Allen
Vigia Chico
Candelaria
Chunhuhub
Felipe 6
Carrillo Puerto Sian Ka'an
Reserve
Chan Santa
Cruz Poniente Punta
Herrero * Mérida
Charming squares, shady
patios, whitewashed façades,
and wonderful markets make
50 this one of the most roman-
tic of all Mexico’s historic
Colonial cities (see pp26–7).
( Uxmal
The pyramids,
palaces, and quad-
rangles of this
dramatic ruined
city have a special
elegance and
beauty, and are ) Campeche
The city is a remarkable survivor
regarded by many from the Spanish Colonial era. It in-
as the pinnacle of cludes an old section ringed by ramparts
ancient Mayan and bastions, and an astonishing
architecture museum of Mayan relics housed in
(see pp28–31). an ancient fortress (see pp34–5).
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Cancún ! Night-time
Cancún
Just a dot on the map before 1970, Cancún is now Cancún’s pulsating night-
the biggest resort on the Caribbean. Its Hotel Zone life is most concentrated
occupies a huge, narrow sand spit shaped like a in the “Corazone” but
extends all the way to

giant “7.” On the mainland is the fast-growing city Ciudad Cancún. A non-
of Ciudad Cancún – also known as Downtown. stop party atmosphere is
All along Boulevard Kukulcán are hotels, shopping maintained in clubs vary-
ing from Mexican tradi-
malls, restaurants, and visitor attractions. tional to modern cool.
Top 10 Sights
1 Night-time Cancún
2 The Beach
3 Laguna Nichupté
4 Punta Cancún and the
“Corazone”
The spit at dusk 5 Museo de Antropología e
Kilometer markers, Historia
numbered from the 6 Shopping Areas
north end, are used 7 Avenida Tulum and
as locators along Downtown
Boulevard Kukulcán.
8 El Meco Ruins
9 El Rey Ruins
Bus routes R-1, R-2
and R-15 run up and 0 Parque Nizuc
down between
Avenida Tulum and
along the Hotel
@ The Beach
Cancún’s greatest glory
Zone, 24 hours a day.
is made up of fine white
silicate sand that’s soft
and somehow always cool
For good Mexican
despite the warmth of the
cooking and some sun. There are several
local atmosphere, try public access points from Northside beach at Cancún
the restaurants Boulevard Kukulcán. The
inside Mercado 28 in north side of the “7” is
Downtown Cancún. best for swimming; the
eastern beaches have
• Map H2 & R2–S2 more crashing waves.
• Tourist info kiosks
inside Town Hall,
Av Tulum, La Isla and
£ Laguna Nichupté
The placid lagoon
Forum malls, and Centro enclosed by Cancún Island
de Convenciones, offers more tranquillity
(998) 881 9000;
www.cancun.info
than the ocean, and is a
favorite place for water $ Punta Cancún and
the “Corazone”
• El Rey ruins, sports. To the west are man- The heart of the action on
8am–5pm daily; adm $3 groves and jungle (below). the Hotel Zone strip (above)
• El Meco ruins, is around the bend in
8am–5pm daily; adm $3 the “7.” Here are vast
• Museo de shopping and enter-
Antropología e Historia, tainment malls, such
8am–5pm daily; adm $3 as Plaza Caracol and
Forum by the Sea, and
the biggest nightclubs,
Dady’O and the Coco
Bongo (see p81).
TT-CY_008-009-Cancun.Indd 8
TT-CY_008-009-Cancun.indd 17/7/08
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3:40:03 PM
AM

NP
^ Shopping

Areas
Cancún is a &DQF¼Q
shopaholic’s
heaven. You
Museo de have everything from
%

Antropología e Historia international fashion in
1

78 /80
/&
The star exhibit is a 15th- the vast, gleaming
8 .8
century stucco head known as malls (above left) of the
$9 (1,' $
.
The King (El Rey). The deliberately Hotel Zone to Mexican

% / 9'
misshapen human skulls show souvenirs in the mar-
the Mayan ideals of beauty. kets of Downtown.
& Avenida Tulum

and Downtown
The hub of the more
Mexican town of Ciudad
Cancún is tree-lined
Avenida Tulum. It’s a good
spot for strolling and
souvenir-shopping, and
its cafés and restaurants
are more tranquil than
those by the beach.
* ElNearMeco Ruins
the Isla Mujeres
ferry ports, the ruined city
( ElThese
Rey Ruins
ruins (right)
of El Meco dates back to
AD 300 (above). An
were part of a city that impressive pyramid and
was prominent in the last the remains of an opulent
centuries of Mayan civili- Mayan palace can be seen.
zation, just before the
Spanish Conquest. By
the ruins is a mock Mayan
A Growing Resort
village, presenting a The Camino Real hotel
reconstruction of ancient by the tip of Punta
Mayan life, including Cancún is where
traditional cooking. Cancún all started back
) Parque Nizuc
The giant theme park
in 1971, when it opened
as the first hotel on the
combines slides and rides island. The rest of the
of all sizes at the Wet’n’ “7” was then empty
Wild water park (left); a except for trees, dunes,
snorkeling pool with and a very few beach
stingrays and (harmless) houses and fishing
sharks; an interactive dol- lodges. Since then,
phin pool; and bungee- Cancún has acquired
jumping from the Sky over 25,000 hotel beds.
Coaster (see also p58).
For more on Cancún and the northern part of the

Mayan Riviera see pp74–83
TT-CY_008-009-Cancun.Indd9 9
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PM
Cozumel
The island of Cozumel was the first part of the
Yucatán to be “discovered” for modern visitors when,
in the 1950s, the famous ocean explorer Jacques
Cousteau came here. Second only to the Great Barrier

Reef in the scale of its coral reef system, Cozumel was
declared by Cousteau to be one of the finest diving
areas in the world. The island’s offshore reef is full of
life and a dazzling array of colors. Onshore, Cozumel
has an easygoing atmosphere, ideal for families. Church, San Miguel
Top 10 Sights
1 San Miguel
2 Museo de Cozumel
3 North Beach Hotel Zone
San Miguel Harbor
4 Paraíso Reef
5 Laguna Chankanaab
The waters off Cozu 6 Playa Mia and
mel are so clear and Playa San Francisco
some reefs so close 7 Palancar Reef
to the surface that 8 Parque Punta Sur
you can often see as 9 Punta Santa Cecilia and
much by snorkeling Chen Río
or freediving as you
0 San Gervasio Ruins
can by using scuba
equipment.
Some of the most

! San Miguel
Cozumel’s only town
has a laid-back streetlife
atmospheric places
centered on the waterfront
to eat are the res
(Malecón) and Plaza Cozu-
taurants scattered mel. For shoppers, there’s
along the wild east the new and very lavish
coast of Cozumel. Punta Langosta mall and
cruise terminal (see p92).
• Map H3–4 & R5
• Parque Chankanaab,
8am–6pm daily; adm
@ Museo de Cozumel
Cozumel’s charming
Parque Punta Sur
$12, discount for under

12s; snorkel hire extra,
waterfront museum in San
Miguel illuminates the £ North Beach
Hotel Zone
• San Gervasio ruins, history of Mayan Cozumel, The island’s biggest upscale
7am–4pm daily; adm the arrival of the Spaniards, hotel cluster is situated along
$5, under 12s free and the dawn of the pirate a shaded boulevard north of
• Parque Punta Sur, era. It also has a lovely town. Multistory hotels
8am–5pm daily; adm rooftop café (see p94). and resort complexes line
$10, under 8s free a row of intimate
• Museo de Cozumel, beaches (left).
9am–5pm daily; adm $3 Pools, water sports,
• Cozumel Parks, (987) and every comfort
872 2940 are on hand, and
• Tourist information, there are fine views
(987) 872 7585; www. across the channel
islacozumel.com.mx to the Yucatán
mainland from
most hotel rooms.
10
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5:13:14 PM
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to the shore, this is a

favorite reef for
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1VOUB4BOUB
$FDJMMB
snorkeling, beginners’ $P[VNFM
scuba courses, and 1MBZB4
1MBZB
'SBODJTDP

$IFO3ÓP
easy diving by day
1MBZB.JB
and night. Parrot fish
are common. 1MBZB
1VOUB
$IJRVFSPT ^ Playa
Mia
1BMBODBS and Playa
1VOUB
% Laguna Chankanaab
Created around a natural coral lagoon,
4VS San Francisco
Two of Cozumel’s
this glorious park (above) includes a botani- best beaches (Playa Mia below),
cal garden, a dolphin pool, a pretty beach, packed with facilities for water
and reefs that are ideal for novice divers. lovers, from banana boat rides to
subaqua exploration.
& Palancar Reef

The most famous of Cozu-
mel’s reefs, with fabulous coral
canyons and caves in livid reds
and blues. The waters are full of
vibrant creatures, including the
luminous angelfish (see p47).
* Parque Punta Sur

A wildly diverse nature
reserve, with turtle-nesting
beaches, a snorkeling area, and
huge mangroves and lagoons
that are home to crocodiles and
flamingos. There’s also a light-
house and a tiny Mayan temple.
( Punta Santa
Cecilia and Mayan Cozumel
Chen Río As a shrine to Ixchel,
The east side of the goddess of fertility,
island is more rugged Cozumel was one of
and windblown than the the most important
west, with rocky, empty places of pilgrimage in
beaches and crashing the Yucatán in the
surf that can be danger- centuries just before
ous to swim in. At Punta
Santa Cecilia there’s a ) San Gervasio Ruins
Cozumel’s Mayan capi-
the Spanish Conquest
(see p37). A visit here
lonely beach bar, tal was one of the richest was seen as especially
Mezcalito’s, which has religious and trading cities important for childless
great views, while in pre-Conquest Yucatán. women, though every-
Chen Río has a lovely The layout of its pyramids one in Mayan Yucatán
sheltered beach and an and small palaces gives a tried to make the trip at
idyllic beach restaurant strong impression of life in least once in their lives.
(see p70). a Mayan community.
Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 11
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Playa del Carmen
If you prefer a beach-town atmosphere to the long
hotel strip of Cancún, this is the ideal choice on
the Mayan Riviera. Only a tiny fishing village with
sand streets in the 1980s, and a backpackers’ hang-

out in the early ’90s, Playa has blossomed into a
fun town with an energetic beach- and nightlife.
Top 10 Sights ! Town Beach

Center of the action
1 Town Beach by day is the main beach
(above), with more beautiful
2 Quinta Avenida soft, white Yucatán sand
3 Nighttime Playa and plenty of shoreline
4 Hip Hotels cafés. Beach volleyball is
5 Xaman-Ha Mayan Ruins something of a specialty.
6 Playacar
Quinta Avenida
7 Playacar Aviary
Take your own 8 Playa Tukán and
snorkels. They’re Mamita’s Beaches
expensive to rent or
9 Chunzubul Beach
buy in Playa.
0 Xcaret
For good traditional
Mexican food at
lower prices, eat
@ Quinta Avenida
Stretching north from
away from the the town plaza, “Fifth
Quinta. Along Calle 4 Avenue” is Playa’s main
there are several drag, for daytime shopping
enjoyable, low-key and nighttime promenad-
ing. Spread along the
restaurants with
pedestrianized avenue is a
bargain seafood, like
multicolored array of shops,
Las Brisas (see p83).
cafés, hotels, clubs, and
pavement restaurants.
• Map H3 & Q4
• Tourist information:
Av 20 and 1ª sur; (984) £ Nighttime Playa
After dark the Quinta
Beachfront at Playa
873 0242; www.

playadelcarmen.
buzzes with wandering
crowds meeting up, dining $ Hip Hotels
Playa is well known for
caribemexicano.com; and bar-hopping. With its stylish small hotels, like
9am–8:30pm Mon–Fri, mariachi bands in some Mosquito Blue on Calle 12,
9am–5pm Sat, Sun bars and techno DJs in El Faro, and especially Deseo
• Xcaret, (998) 883 others, there’s plenty of (below, see also p127). Dis-
3143, www.xcaret variety. The center of the creetly spectacular and with
cancun.com; action is the junction of wonderful pools, they show-
summer: 9am–10pm, the Quinta and Calle 12. case contemporary elegance.
winter: 9am–9pm;
tours daily from Cancún
and Playa del Mar,
adm $59–72, children
5–12 $29–36 (under
5s free)
12
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AM
% Xaman-Ha
Mayan Ruins
Playa shares its ground
& $//( 17 +
with the site of a Mayan
settlement known as
Xaman-Ha (below).
^ Playacar
$9&2 1 6 7 , 78<(17(6

Several temples survive, This smartly landscaped
4 8 , 17$ $9 ( 1 , ' $

& $/ / (
most scattered around development (above) shows
the Playacar area. a different side of Playa. It
encompasses resort
& $ / / (

hotels, winding $ 9 - 8 5 ( =
& $ / / (
lanes of luxury
villas, a fine
aviary, Mayan
ruins, beach
clubs, restaurants,
and a champion-
ship standard golf
course (see p56).
& Playacar Aviary

The aviary within
Playacar (above) contains
a fine collection of tou-
cans, parrots, flamingos,
and over 50 other bird
species in a lush green
setting that seems
almost like real jungle.
A very easy way to see
some of the Yucatán’s
* Playa Tukán and
Mamita’s Beach
rarer birds without
trekking into the forest.
Two beach clubs, with
laid-back bar-restaurants,
palapa-sunshades and
The Beach Bar
loungers for hire, and League
snorkel tours. The hotels Unswervingly popular
nearby all have arrange- and the hub of the local
ments so that guests can scene ever since it first
use the beach-club opened back in the days
facilities free of charge. when Playa was just a
village under palm trees,
( Chunzubul Beach
Playa’s best snorkel- ) Xcaret
Created around a
the Blue Parrot (see
pp60–61) was voted
ing spots are found on the natural lagoon 6 km “one of the world’s ten
beaches north of Mam- (4 miles) south of Playa, best beach bars” in an
ita’s, beyond the striking Xcaret is a huge, imagi- international magazine
cabañas of Shangri-La natively landscaped “eco- survey of the late ’90s.
(see p126). There are also park” bursting with flora, The judges must have
nudist beaches along this fauna, and sea life (see enjoyed their research.
stretch of coast. pp14–15). d Map G3 & Q4
For diving and snorkeling in the reefs off Playa see pp46 & 124 13
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12/1/06 5:23:33 PM
Left Mayan Village Center Ball Court Right Mariposario butterfly garden
Playa del Carmen: Xcaret

£ Sea Trek
A fabulous guided
walk – not swim – right
along the seabed, using
weights to keep you
from floating upwards
and simple breathing
apparatus. You don’t
need to be a great
swimmer to enjoy this,
and on the way you see
all kinds of wonderful
sea life from below.
$ LaandCaleta Cove
Blue Lagoon
Fine places for easy
swimming. La Caleta
(“the Inlet”) was the
main harbor of Mayan
Polé and is now a
favorite snorkeling spot,
Snorkeling river with coral and tropical
fish just below the
! Underground
Snorkeling River
surface. The Blue Lagoon is a
big, ultra-relaxing clearwater
This winding stream of clear pool behind the beach, with
turquoise water allows you to islands of thick vegetation
swim and snorkel all the way inviting exploration.
through the park and the Mayan
village to the beach, via rocky
canyons, pools, and caverns lit % Mayan Village
and Ball Court
by shafts of daylight. Reached via atmospheric passage-
ways, the village endeavors to
@ Dolphin Pools
Xcaret has two pools by the
represent some of the life of the
ancient Mayan world. This
beach where visitors can swim includes a reconstruction of a
with friendly dolphins. It’s an Mayan ball court, where a modern
extremely popular activity, and interpretation of the mysterious,
only a few people are allowed long-lost ball game (see p25) is
into the pools each day, so pre- played each afternoon. There’s
book or try to reserve a slot as also a well-presented museum
soon as you arrive at the park. by the park entrance.
14 Note: there are extra charges for the dolphin pools,

Sea Trek and snorkel hire
TT-CY_014-015-xcaret.Indd1414
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PM
9
2
5 0

Entrance 8
1
43
6
Turtle pool
^ Butterfly Garden
One of the most spectacular
parts of Xcaret, the mariposario
is the largest butterfly garden in ( Forest Trail and
Orchid Greenhouse
the world, part-hidden in a steep A well-signposted trail helps you
ravine beneath a giant net explore many other parts of the
of a roof. Bursting with all park, through lush natural
manner of exuberant forest and passing further
tropical flowers and attractions, such as
vegetation, the garden is beehives, animal en-
alive with an astonishing closures, a mushroom
variety of colorful butterflies. farm, and a wonderful
Mornings are best. greenhouse with more
than 100 magnificent
& Aviary and Zoo

Animal attractions are
varieties of rare orchid.
You can also explore a
spread all around the park. Parrot
longer, guided trail on
Among the birds on view – horseback.
all native to the Yucatán –
are toucans, cute aracaris or
“little toucans,” bright green ) Live Show
Presented nightly, this is a
parrots, and very rare birds like spectacular mix of entertainment
the quetzal, whose spectacular spread around the village and
tail feathers were once used in theater. It begins with a charrería,
the headdresses of Mayan lords. or Mexican rodeo, and goes on
Animals include spider monkeys, through “ancient Mayan” rituals
bats, and pumas. to mariachis and vibrant perfor-
mances of folk music and
* Turtle Pools
Near La Caleta, you
dances from all over Mexico.
can see different kinds of

sea turtles – hawksbills,
loggerheads, and leather-
backs – in every stage of
life, from newborns to
grumpy-faced ancients
with beautiful shells over
1 m (3 ft) long. The pools
are part of a repopulation
program to preserve this
endangered species. Live show
15
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PM
Isla Mujeres
Site of the first Spanish landing in Mexico in 1517,
“Island of Women” takes its name from the idols of
the goddess Ixchel found here. Though close to
Cancún, the island has a laid-back atmosphere

and has long been a backpackers’ favorite. It also
has excellent diving and fishing opportunities.
Dolphin Discovery
Top 10 Sights
1 Isla Town
2 Playa Norte
3 Playa Secreto
4 Dolphin Discovery
5 Hacienda Mundaca
Isla town 6 El Garrafón
7 Parque Escultórico
The slow ferry from Punta Sur
Puerto Juárez to Isla 8 Manchones Reef
is the cheapest and
9 Sleeping Sharks Cave
nicest ride.
0 Isla Contoy
Rent a golf cart,
scooter, or bicycle to
see the whole island.
! Isla Town
Isla’s only town still
has the look of a Carib-
Gather food for a pic- bean fishing village, with
nic at Isla Town before narrow, sandy streets
touring the island. and wooden houses
painted in bright pinks,
yellows, greens, and
• Map H2, S1 & L1–2 blues. There are plenty
• Tourist office: Av Rueda of cafés and souvenir Fishing boat on the white sands
Medina 130, to the left shops, and few cars.
from the ferry quay;
(998) 877 0307; www. £ Playa Secreto
To the northeast of
cancunmexico.com.mx; Isla town, this “secret”
9am–4pm Mon–Fri beach (below) is in a
• Dolphin Discovery, sheltered inlet that’s
(998) 849 4757; www. even more shallow and
dolphindiscovery.com; placid than Playa Norte,
adm $125 (swimming and is wonderful for
with dolphins), $165– small children. A foot-
$195 (dive); minimum bridge across it leads to
age 8 years; the Avalon Grand resort.
reservations essential
• Hacienda Mundaca,
9am–6pm daily adm $2 @ Playa Norte
This beach (above) at the
• Parque Garrafón, (998) northern tip of the town is
877 1100; summer: the place where many Isla
8:30am–6:30pm daily, visitors spend their days,
winter: 8:30am–5pm with laid-back beach bars
daily; adm $29–$59 like Buho’s (see p82) for
• Parque Escultórico refreshment breaks. With
Punta Sur, 7am–10pm pure white sand and calm
daily; free turquoise waters, it’s excel-
lent for tranquil swimming.
16
TT-CY_016-017_IslaMujeres 16 16
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5:37:02 PM
AM

NP
1VOUB/PSUF

,VOD
$ Dolphin Discovery
One of the largest
0XMHUHV
interactive dolphin
centers on the Riviera, *TMB
*TMB
offering visitors a range (SBOEF .VKFSFT
of options for swimming
% Hacienda Mundaca

and diving with these The ruins of a 19th-century *TMB
ultra-friendly creatures. mansion (above) built by an ex- 5FTPSP
Other Dolphin Discovery slave trader have been
centers are at Cozumel transformed into a park, with a
and Puerto Aventuras. small zoo of Yucatán wildlife.

1VOUB4VS
^ ElThis nature park and

Garrafón
snorkeling center is
created around a natural,
shallow pool (below).
There are restaurants,
equipment rental, and
swimming and snorkeling
opportunities in the rock
pool, offshore reefs, or
in the swimming pool.
& Parque
Escultórico * Manchones
Reef
The Lafittes
Punta Sur Isla Mujeres’ Isla Mujeres’ most
The southern tip of most popular reef famous residents were
the island has been for scuba courses the 19th-century
transformed into a and easy diving. Lousiana-born brothers
sculpture park, Only about 10– Jean and Pierre Lafitte,
with striking 12 m (30–40 ft) considered the last
modern art works deep, the waters great Caribbean pirates.
(right) spread are safe and have Sailing southward after
around the wind- plenty of colorful falling out with the U.S.
blown headland coral and fish to Government, they built
and lighthouse. discover. a stronghold on the Isla
lagoon, but were
( Sleeping
Sharks Cave ) Isla Contoy
An uninhabited island
attacked by the Spanish
Navy in 1821. Both
An underground river about 30 km (18 miles) badly wounded, they
meets the sea at this cave, north of Isla Mujeres, escaped in a boat, and
attracting sharks that come Contoy is an important Pierre is believed to
to bask, trancelike, in the seabird reserve for peli- have died in Dzilam
mixture of fresh and salt cans, cormorants, frigate Bravo on the Yucatán
water. A must-see for birds, spoonbills, and mainland. His brother’s
experienced divers – but others. Day trips are run fate remains a mystery.
don’t wake those sharks! by companies on Isla.
Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 17
TT-CY_016-017_IslaMujeres 17 17
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AM
Tulum
One of the Yucatán’s most beautiful places, Tulum
offers a special combination of spectacular Mayan
ruins and miles of superb, palm-lined beaches.
Nearby, too, is the finest cave diving area in the

world. This is the most popular destination in the
Yucatán for finding cabañas – rooms in palm-
roofed cabins right by the beach and the waves.
Top 10 Sights
1 Tulum Ruins
2 El Castillo
3 Hippy Heaven
4 Secluded Heaven
Mayan ruin at Tulum 5 Tulum Pueblo
6 Gran Cenote
Beach cabañas are in 7 Aktun-Ha Cenote
demand in peak sea-
8 Tankah
son, and the cheaper
ones are often booked
9 Dos Ojos Cenote
up by 10am each day. 0 Xel-Ha
The Diamante-K
cabañas, north of the
T-junction, have a
vegetarian café and
juice bar, open to
non-residents.
• Map G4 & P6
• Tourist info: (984) 873
1490; www.rivieramaya.
com; www.inah.gob.mx
• Tulum Ruins, 8am–
5pm daily; adm $3 ! Tulum Ruins
Mayan Tulum was a
• Xel-Ha Park, (984) walled town and prosper- Tulum beach
883 0524; www.xelha. ous trading community at
com.mx; 9am–6pm
daily; adm $18–$46,
the time when the
Spaniards arrived in the @ ElThe most impressive of
Castillo
children $9–$23, 1520s. The ruins (above) the Mayan buildings at Tulum
under 5s free include a recognizable is the great temple-pyramid
• Dos Ojos/ Hidden main street, the Palace of (below). A flaming beacon
Worlds, (984) 877 8535; the Halach Uinic, and the at the top of the temple
www.hiddenworlds. House of the Columns. was once visible for miles.
com.mx; dive times
9am to 5pm daily;
charges per activity,
adm $40–$90, plus
$15 gear rental
• Gran Cenote and
Aktun–Ha, sunrise to
sunset daily; adm $2
18
TT-CY_018-019-Tulum.indd 1818
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8 90
£ Hippy Heaven
The oldest and
67

12
simplest cabaña clusters &2%

– Don Armando’s, the
52
$'
3
Mar Caribe – are along
the stretch of the beach

80

8/
road close to the ruins.
7

Don’t come here if you 5
$
,'
want much privacy or
(1
more than basic showers
$9
4
and other facilities.

$ Secluded Heaven
Along the stretch of
beach (left) south of the
T-junction in the road is a
wide choice of beach
cabins, from plain stick-
and-sand-floor huts to
Tulum Pueblo luxurious cabañas, most
% The village of Tulum of them secluded. Few
is a rambling place spread have electricity and are lit
out along the main high- only by candles at night.
way. Almost 100 per cent
Mayan just a few years Gran
ago, it now has a bank, ^
Cenote
bus terminus, cafés, Along the road toward
small hotels, and Cobá from Tulum are
backpacker services. several accessible
cenotes. The Gran
Aktun-Ha Cenote Cenote is one of the
& Another enjoyable most attractive for
cenote for swimming, swimmers and snorkel-
with a broad, peaceful ers, surrounded by rock
pool that runs into a dark columns and exotic
and mysterious cave flowers, and leading into
system. As you swim a wide, arching cavern.
around the pool you see
many shoals of tiny fish.
Cenotes
Tankah The Yucatán Peninsula is
* A bumpy, wind- a vast slab of limestone
ing road leads to riddled with labyrinths
this little-developed of caves and subterran-
beach which has an ean rivers. Water is
enjoyable beach-bar accessible only through
and restaurant, and natural sinkholes in the
a large, easily swim- rock, called cenotes in
mable cenote just Spanish. These vary from
inland of the track. tiny wells to cathedral-
like caverns. Their water,
( Dos Ojos Cenote

This cenote is the ) Xel-Ha
The coral inlet (above)
fed by underground
springs, is always cool
entrance to the world’s has been landscaped as and fresh. Swimming in
longest known underwater a snorkel park, plus forest cenotes is one of the
cave system, which trail and beach. It has unforgettable Yucatán
stretches over 600 km plenty of colorful fish experiences, and the
(350 miles). The Hidden and is great for children. Tulum area is a center
Worlds Center (see p51) Across the highway is a for cave diving.
offers exhilarating tours. ruined Mayan city.
19
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11:48:20 AM
Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve
The empty jungle and vast wetlands of Sian Ka’an (Mayan
for “where the sky is born”) contrast strikingly with the
resorts of the Mayan Riviera. Extending south from Tulum
around Ascensión Bay, the area encompasses lagoons, reefs,

lakes, mangroves, and forests. It is virtually uninhabited and
contains a dazzling variety of animal and plant life. Flamingos
Top 10 Sights
1 Ben-Ha Cenote
2 Boca Paila
3 Lake Chunyaxché
4 Muyil Ruins
5 Lake Islands
Lake Chunyaxché 6 Punta Allen
7 Ascension Bay Bonefishing
The operators listed Flats
below sometimes 8 Mangroves and Forest
offer specialist tours,
9 Native and Migratory Birds
such as snorkeling,
0 Animals
bird-watching, or
looking for crocodiles
at night.
Tours tend to include

refreshments of some
kind (drinks and sand-
wiches usually), but if
you’re traveling inde-
pendently, eat or buy
food at Punta Allen.
! Ben-Ha Cenote
By the warden’s lodge at
• Map F5–6 the reserve’s entrance, a path
• Entry to the reserve leads to a clear, cool cenote
is $2 per person, but to (above), where you can swim
see the best of the among reeds and forest trees.
wildlife it is worth joining
an eco-friendly tour
• Amigos de Sian Ka’an, @ Boca Paila
Set on a glorious lagoon
Cancún; www. (below), the Boca Paila Fish-
amigosdesiankaan.org; ing Lodge is a favorite among Muyil ruins
tours cost $70 per serious fishermen. This is
person also where Sian Ka’an tours Lake Chunyaxché
• Centro Ecológico Sian switch from vans to boats. £
Sian Ka’an has many
Ka’an, (984) 871 2499; lakes that., like all those
www.cesiak.org in the Yucatán, are fed not
• Sian Ka’an Tours, by rivers but by under-
Tulum; (984) 871 2363 ground streams. In the
• Tours cost from channels into Lake Chun-
around $95 per person yaxché from the lagoon
are extraordinary points
where the sea and lake
waters meet, bringing
together a teeming mix
of plant life and fish.
20
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3:52:50 PM
AM
7XOXP
Muyil Ruins Lake Islands
$ The ruined Mayan city % There are at least 3LQR
6X¢UH]
of Muyil lies just outside the 27 Mayan ruins within %RFD3DLOD
reserve. A very old city pos- the reserve, many of
sibly allied to Cobá (see them small temples
p89), it has an unusual great sited on islands in the 1VOUB

pyramid with a building at its lakes. It is thought 4PMJNBO
top containing several rooms. that these lake island 1VOUB
Beside the ruins, a path temples were 9LJLD&KLFR "MMFO
leads to Lake Chunyaxché. probably places of
pilgrimage, visited in #BIJBEF
MB"TDFOTJPO
order to perform
1VOUB
special rituals. 1BKBSPT
^ Punta Allen
It is said that this & Ascension Bay
Bonefishing Flats
sleepy lobster-fishing These shallows are one of
village, with its sand the finest flyfishing areas
streets, big beach in the world, above all for
(above), and just a few bonefish. Fishing lodges
restaurants and places along the road and Punta
to stay, was founded Allen’s guest houses
by Blackbeard the offer trips out to them.
Pirate, whose ship
was called The Allen.
* Mangroves
and Forest
A mix of salt and fresh
water at Sian Ka’an
provides the ideal con-
ditions for mangroves
(right), which are home
to two kinds of croco-
dile. Further inland are
large expanses of rain
forest and grasslands.
( Native and
Migratory Birds ) Animals
Sian Ka’an is home
Chechen & Chakah
Nearly 350 bird species have to every kind of wild cat The toxicity of the small
been logged as native to found in Mexico and chechen tree can make
Sian Ka’an, and around a Central America, people numb and dizzy
million migratory birds visit including ocelots by its aroma alone. But
each year from North and pumas, as if local Maya ever rub
America. Among well as anteat- against the tree’s leaves,
those easiest ers, manatees, they know they have
to see are and tapirs. However, only to look around for a
ibises, egrets, you’re most likely to see nearby chakah bush to
orioles, storks raccoons, bush pigs, find the natural antidote
(right), and the spider monkeys, gray to the chechen’s poison.
American heron. foxes, and iguanas.
Note: the road to Punta Allen is extremely rough and should be 21

negotiated only in a four-wheel drive vehicle (see p90)
TT-CY_020-021_SianKaan.indd 21 4/12/06 6:14:20

12/1/06 3:52:57 PM
Chichén Itzá
Built to a scale that seems from another world, Chichén, one of the new
seven wonders of the world, has some of the largest buildings of the ancient
Mayan cities. It had a port near Río Lagartos and grew rich from trading. With
a large population, it became the most powerful city in the whole of the
Yucatán in the last centuries of the Classic Mayan era (AD 750–950), defeating
Cobá, Izamal, and others in war. A visit to these great ruins is not to be missed.
Top 10 Sights
1 Sound and Light Show
2 Castillo de Kukulcán
3 Great Ball Court
4 Sacred Cenote
5 Temple of the Warriors
Serpent head at foot of the 6 Court of the Thousand
Castillo de Kukulcán
Columns
To see Chichén at its 7 High Priest’s Grave
best, stay nearby the 8 Observatory
night before and get 9 Nunnery
to the site early,
0 Old Chichén
before the main heat
of the day and before
the arrival of the big
crowds from Cancún ! Sound and
Light Show
at about 11am. Presented nightly, the
show features an ima-
The little town of gined history of Chichén
Pisté just west of the Itzá, while the main
ruins has several
temples are dramatically
lit in changing colors.
pleasant restaurants
along its main street,
such as Las Mestizas @ Castillo
Kukulcán
de
(see p103), which It is no longer possible to
have more charm climb this awesome
than the visitor center pyramid (right) which
at the site itself. encloses an older one,
access to which is from
• Map E3 the top of the Castillo.
• 8am–5pm daily Carvings, panels, levels,
• Sound and Light and the 365 steps are
Show, winter: 7pm daily, all symbols of the
summer: 8pm daily intricate Mayan calendar.
• Adm $8; includes
show, but extra charge
of $2.50 for English,
German, Italian, or Castillo de Kukulcán
French commentary via
headphones; www.inah.
gob.mx £ Great Ball Court
Built in AD 864, this is the
biggest ancient ball court in
Mexico (see p25). It has
exceptional carvings (left) and
remarkable acoustics – a
normal voice can be heard
from each end of the court.
22 For Chichén Itzá’s best carvings and more about the ancient
Mayan ball game see pages 24–5
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4
3
$ Sacred Cenote
Visited by Mayan pilgrims
over centuries, the giant 12 5
natural cenote or sink-
7 6
hole (left; see also
p19), has yielded

jewelry, sculptures,
and animal bones. 8
9
% Temple of
the Warriors
0 Entrance
The squat temple

opposite the Castillo was
used in city rituals. In ^ Court of the Thou
sand Columns
front of it are ranks of The forest of pillars
pillars, each intricately around a giant quadran-
carved with portraits of gle once supported wood
important figures in the and palm roofs. This was
Chichén elite (below). the main place for doing
business in Chichén: for
buying, selling, and
voicing disputes.
& High
Grave
Priest’s
Almost like a smaller

prototype of the later
Castillo, this pyramid has
an inscription with the
date of its completion:
Observatory June 20, 842. It gets its
* The observatory name from a tomb exca-
(right) is also called El vated at its foot, which
Caracol (“snail”) because cannot be
of its odd round shape. visited.
Three slots in its top
level point due south and
toward the setting sun
and moon on the spring
and autumn equinoxes.
( Nunnery
The Spaniards thought
this group of buildings
was a nunnery, but experts
now believe it formed
Equinox “Descent”
the main residential and
administrative area for On the spring equinox,
Chichén’s lords in the city’s the afternoon sun picks
first years. The buildings out the tails of the ser-
are covered in spectacular pents lining the Castillo’s
carvings (below) north stairway and runs
down to their heads just
) Old Chichén
Chichén Itzá covered
before sunset. On the
autumn equinox, the
a much wider area than reverse effect occurs.
is seen at the monumen- This “Descent of Kukul-
tal core. A path leads cán” symbolized the city’s
south to Chichén Viejo – contact with the gods.
a part-excavated site in Today, huge crowds flock
the woods, which is as to see the phenomenon.
old as the central plazas.
For more Mayan ruins in the Yucatán see pp38–9 23
TT-CY_022-023-ChichenItza.indd 23 1/12/06 11:51:44

11:51:13 AM
Left Warrior figure Right Depictions of Chac, the rain god, on the Nunnery façade
Chichén Itzá: The Carvings

! Heads of Kukulcán
The giant feathered ser-
4
^ Platform of the
Jaguars and Eagles
pents at the Castillo 3 This small platform may
probably represented have been used for
1 2
Vision Serpents (see 5 rituals by the Orders of
7
p37) but have also 6 the Jaguars and
been associated with Eagles – special
the central Mexican 8 groups of warriors.
serpent-god 9 Its carvings show these
0
Quetzalcoatl. animals tearing open human
victims to eat their hearts.
@ Chac Mool and Altar of

the Red Jaguar
& Warriors’ Columns
Reclining Chac Mool figures A “picture gallery” of the
were fallen warriors delivering men of Chichén. Most are of
offerings to the gods, from food warriors in their battle regalia,
and jewels to the hearts of sacri- but there are also some priests
ficial victims. The Chac Mool in and bound captives.
the inner temple of the Castillo
stands in front of a painted stone
jaguar, a symbol of cosmic forces. * Casa Colorada
Inscriptions
These record that several lords
Temple of the Jaguars
£ Carved panels connect the
of Chichén celebrated a ritual
here in September 869, to ensure
foundation of Chichén Itzá with the city’s prosperity.
First Mother and First Father, the
creators of the world.
( Chac-Masks of Las Monjas
The curling snout of the rain-
$ Ball Court Frieze

As defeated ball game play-
god Chac is depicted repeatedly
in rows at the Nunnery.
ers have their heads cut off, seven
spurts of blood shoot from their
necks and are transformed into ) Snails, Armadillos,
Turtles, and Crabs
vines and flowers. Placed between the Chac-heads
on the Iglesia
% Tzompantli
Covered in carved
(“church”) at the
Nunnery, these ani-
skulls on all four sides, mals represented the
a low platform near the four spirits that held
Ball Court was prob- up the sky at the
ably used to display cardinal points (north,
the heads of south, east, west) in
sacrificial victims. Kukulcán head Mayan mythology.
24 For more about the Mayan gods and spirits see p37
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Top 10 Ancient
Mayan Ball Courts
The Ball Game
The ancient Mexican ball game
1 Monte Albán, Oaxaca
can be traced back to before
2 Palenque, Chiapas
1500 BC. It features in Mayan

3 Toniná, Chiapas
myths such as the story of
4 Uxmal, Yucatán
the hero-twins Hunahpu and
5 Chichén Itzá, Yucatán
Xbalanqué, who play the game
6 Cobá, Quintana Roo
with the Lords of Death for days
7 Kohunlich,
and nights, defying the forces of
Quintana Roo
Ball player destiny. There were ball courts in
8 Calakmul, southern
all Mayan cities. No one knows
Campeche
exactly how it was played, but it is thought that there
9 Tikal, Guatemala
were two main forms. One was played by two or four
0 Copán, Honduras
players on the older, smaller courts, and the aim was
to keep the ball from touching the ground and get it
past your opponent(s) and out at the end of the
court. The other form corresponded to much bigger
courts, such as at Chichén Itzá, and was played by
teams of seven who scored in big rings on either side
of the court. In either style players could not touch
the ball with hands or feet, but only with shoulders,
chest and hips, so scoring was very hard. Games had
great ritual significance, and sometimes, but not
Player in protective clothing always, losing players were sacrificed.
The Ball Court

Ball courts were found in every one of the ancient
cultures of Mexico and Central America. Though
the style and size of the courts varied, they were
always I-shaped, as in this Aztec codex illustration
(above). The game was viewed as symbolic of the
cycle of life, and the court represented the world.
While games had important religious significance,
Carved ring in ball court it is known that men also placed bets on the results.
25
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145581 2:30 W2k-2
1 026 18/02/08 K40 00
K000 K000
Mérida
The most languidly tropical of Mexico’s colonial cities,
Mérida is a town of whitewashed façades, Moorish-
style Spanish houses with deliciously shady, palm-filled
patios, tall and plain 17th-century churches, and an

unhurried street life. It is also at the center of the
Yucatán’s distinctive culture, making it the best place
to see and shop for traditional crafts and souvenirs. Cathedral
Top 10 Sights
1 Plaza Mayor
2 Cathedral
3 Palacio del Gobernador
4 Casa de Montejo
5 Calle 60
6 Iglesia de Jesús
Arch
7 Parque
Ask for the Yucatán Santa Lucía
Today free magazine 8 Market
at tourist offices. It’s 9 Paseo de Montejo
an excellent source
0 Museo de Antropología
of useful information,
with handy maps.
For some of the best

! Plaza Mayor
This spacious square
lunches in Mérida, was the heart of the Mayan
head away from the city of Ti’ho, and so was
main tourist run up taken as the hub of the
new city by Conquistador
to Paseo Montejo.
Francisco Montejo when
But note that a few
he founded Mérida in
of the city’s upmarket
1542. The square is still
eateries close in the surrounded by the city’s Plaza Mayor
evenings. main public buildings,
• Map C2
while its colonnades and
benches under a canopy £ Palacio del
Gobernador
• Tourist offices: of giant laurel trees provide Neighboring the Cathedral,
Teatro Peón Contreras, favorite meeting places. the elegant seat of the Yuca-
corner of Calle 60 and tán state government was
57; Palacio de Gobierno,
Plaza Mayor
@ Cathedral
Built between 1562
built in 1892 to replace a
Spanish governors’ palace.
• Tourist Info: (999) and 1598, this is the oldest Its patios, open to the public,
924 9290; www. cathedral on the American are decorated with striking
mayayucatan.com.mx mainland (in the entire con- murals (below) by Fernando
• Palacio del tinent, only Santo Domingo Castro Pacheco.
Gobernador, 8am–9pm in the Dominican
daily; free Republic is
• Museo de older). Massive
Antropología e Historia, and monumental,
Palacio Cantón, (999) it was built in the
923 0557; www.inah. sober style of the
gob.mx; 8am–8pm Tue– Spanish Renais-
Sat, 8am–2pm Sun, sance, with a
closed Mon; adm $4 soaring façade
and few decora-
tive flourishes.
26
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K000 K000
& $//(
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& $ / / (
& $ // (
& $// (
& $ / / (
Casa de
$ Montejo
The astonishing por- & $/ /(

& $//(
tico of the first Spanish
stone house completed Calle 60
in Mérida, built for the % Mérida’s main drag

&$// (
& $//(
& $//(

$ / / (
Montejos themselves in for strolling and souvenir
1549, bears a very graphic shopping (above), running & $ / / (

& $/ /(
& $//(
celebration of the Con- from Plaza Mayor through & $//(
quest. The rest of the Parque Hidalgo, another
&

house has since been re- fine square with a clutch & $ / / (
built and is now a bank. of cafés and restaurants. & $ / / (
^ Iglesia de Jesús
The Jesuits built this
church in 1618, favoring
ornamentation and a little
flair over the plain style
of the Franciscans, who
built most of the town’s
other religious buildings.
& Parque
Santa Lucía
The arcaded square of
Santa Lucía (above),
dating in part from 1575,
is the most romantic of
* Market
Shopping hub of the ) Museo de
Antropología
all Mérida’s old squares.
Free concerts of tradition-
Yucatán, Mérida’s market The grandest of all the al music take place every
is a huge bazaar. Stalls are Paseo Montejo mansions, Thursday (see p63).
piled high with chilis, fabu- built for General Fran-
lous fruit and other food, cisco Cantón between
hammocks, sandals, pana- 1909 and 1911, houses The Tríos
ma hats, and em- one of Mexico’s Walk around the Plaza
broidery (see p109). most important Mayor on most evenings
archeological and you’ll see groups of
( Paseo de
Montejo
museums. It has
many treasures
men in threes, dressed
in white shirts and black
Laid out in the Yuca- excavated from trousers, and carrying
tán’s early 1900s sites all across the guitars. These are the
boom in imitation of Yucatán, and is Yucatán tríos, traditional
Parisian boulevards, especially rich in troubadours available for
Paseo de Montejo ceramics and jade. hire to play romantic
is lined with lavish Its displays provide serenades. They can be
mansions, some an overview of the hired to entertain at a
using fabulous icon- Mayan world that party or wedding, or you
ography, such as illuminates visits can have them sing right
this eagle-and- to the ruins there on the square.
snake motif. themselves.
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Uxmal
The most majestic of the ruined Mayan cities,
Uxmal (which means “three-times-built,”) was ! Pyramid
Magician
of the
a powerful city-state from AD 700 to 920. Its Unusually, Uxmal’s best-known

pyramid (below) has rounded

spectacular buildings are strikingly like gigantic corners. The temple at the top
stage sets and have been compared to the is the legendary home of the
famous monuments of Greece and Rome. Dwarf of Uxmal. Sadly, visitors
can no longer climb to the top.
Top 10 Sights
1 Pyramid of the Magician
2 Nunnery Quadrangle
3 Ball Court
4 House of the Turtles
5 Governor’s Palace
6 Great Pyramid
7 House of the Old Woman
House of the Turtles 8 House of the Pigeons
Arrive at the site 9 Temple of the Centipede
early in the day to and the Arch
miss the heat and 0 Sound and Light Show
the crowds. Allow at
least a full morning
to see the whole site. @ Nunnery
Quadrangle
This elegant, four-building
Hal-Tun, beside the
complex was Uxmal’s
road about 2 km
heart of power and ritual.
(1 mile) north of the It was so named by a
ruins, is a charming Spanish friar merely
traditional Yucatecan because it reminded him
restaurant with an of a convent. Intricate
airy, relaxing terrace. carvings (below, see also
p30) symbolize the magi-
• Map C4 cal authority of the city
• Site 8am–5pm daily and its rulers and their
• Sound and Light contact with the gods. Pyramid of the Magician
Show, winter: 7pm
daily, summer: 8pm
daily
$ House of
the Turtles
• Adm $9 Mon–Sat; This delicately
give tip for the guided proportioned small
visit, plus $2.50 for temple-residence
English, French, is considered the
German, or Italian archetype of the
commentary; www.inah. pure Puuc archi-
gob.mx. tectural style (see
p31). The name
£ Ball Court
Uxmal’s main Ball Court
comes from its decorative
cornice, featuring a line of
is smaller than the Great turtles carved in stone.
Court at Chichén Itzá (see This is a motif that you
p22). The original scoring will see many times at
rings are inscribed with Uxmal; it was associated
dates from the year 901; with the rebirth of new life
those you actually see at and the fertility of the
the court are replicas. coming of the rains.
28 For more on Uxmal’s amazing carvings see p30
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Entrance
% Governor’s Palace
Often regarded as the 2
finest of all Mayan buildings, 3 1
this huge palace, over 100 m 4
(300 ft) long, was built for
the greatest of Uxmal’s 76 5

rulers, known as Chan-Chak- 0
Kaknal-Ahaw, or Lord Chak.
8
Its huge frieze (left) symbol-
izes time and the cycles of
rain, sun, and rebirth. 9
^ Great Pyramid
Most of this tower-
ing pyramid (below) is
older than the Governor’s
Palace next door. Like
many Mayan buildings, it
was altered and added to
many times.
& House of the

Old Woman
Only partly excavated,
this large pyramid with a
Puuc-style temple on one
side is among the oldest
major structures at
Uxmal, dating from about
700. In legend, it is said
to be the home of the
Dwarf’s Mother.
Uxmal’s Dwarf
( Temple of
the Centipede * House of the
Pigeons In Mayan legend, Uxmal
and the Arch This huge complex in- was founded by an alux
Unexcavated parts of corporates temples and (leprechaun) who had
Uxmal include the Temple palatial residences. Early defied the authority of a
of the Centipede. The travelers thought the lofty local king. When the king
sacbé (Mayan road) lead- roof comb above its central dared the dwarf to build
ing to it continued to the quadrangle looked like a house, the Pyramid of
allied city of Kabah. An dovecotes (below), hence the Magician appeared
arch marks the boundary the name. It was once overnight. On another
of Uxmal’s central core. covered in sculptures. day the dwarf built the
path to Kabah. The king’s
) Sound and
Light Show
last test was that they
should both be hit on
Every night, Uxmal’s the head with hammers.
major buildings are dram- The king died, but the
atically lit up in varying dwarf was protected by
colors, and there is a a magic tortilla and
commentary on Uxmal in went on to rule Uxmal.
history and legend.
29
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Left Monstermouth, Pyramid of the Magician Center Chac gods Right Jaguar throne
Uxmal: The Carvings

! Monstermouths
Temple entrances in 6
53
Entrance
^ Nunnery: Flow-
ers and Lattices
the form of giant monster- 4 1 Lattice work repre-
like faces, such as on 2 sented the huts in
the House of the Dwarf which meetings
at the Pyramid of the were held, while
8
Magician, made a 7 9 flowers were a
striking connection 0 symbol of magic. The
between a temple and combination of the two
the gods of the earth. denoted a ceremonial site.
@ Birds Quadrangle
Around this small quad- & Muyal Symbols
The simple spiral pattern
rangle are beautiful images of repeated frequently on the
parrots and other birds, which Nunnery and Governor’s Palace
symbolized the unpredictable represents the Mayan word for
elements in nature. cloud, muyal, another symbol of
contact with the heavens.
£ Nunnery Quadrangle:
Mayan Huts
* Lord Chak
A feature of Puuc carving is the The figure in a spectacular
combination of complex symbols headdress set within the façade
with everyday images. The huts of the Governor’s Palace is be-
carved on the Nunnery’s South lieved to be Lord Chak himself.
Building are little different from
those in Yucatán villages today.
( LaThePicota
phallic column called the
$ Nunnery:
Vision Serpents
“whipping-post” in Spanish has
inscriptions on it that
The semi-triangular pat- have never been
terns on the East Building deciphered. It formed
are Vision Serpents – part of a fertility cult
conduits between men that was a distinctive
and the “Otherworld.” feature of Uxmal.
% Nunnery:
Serpent Heads ) Parrots of the
Great Pyramid
The huge feathered Stylized macaws (guaca-
snakes winding around mayas) feature in the
the West Building are carvings on the temple
probably also Vision at the top of the Great
Serpents. Human faces Pyramid as symbols of
emerge from their jaws. Governor’s Palace uncontrolled nature.
30
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Top 10 Puuc Cities
The Puuc Cities
1 Oxkintok
2 Uxmal Uxmal was the largest of a
3 Kabah string of Mayan communities
that flourished in the Puuc

4 Sayil
5 Nohpat Hills of southern Yucatán
6 Xlapak around 650–920. The other
7 Labná well-known ones are Kabah,
8 Chacmultún Sayil, Xlapak, and Labná (see
9 Xcalumkín, Campeche pp38–9). Their distinctive style
Lord Chac,
0 Itzimté, Campeche Kabah’s Palace of architecture is the most
refined of those used by
Mayan builders, characterized by strong horizontal
lines, elegant proportions, and a sharp contrast
between very plain lower walls and elaborately
carved friezes above them. Many architectural details
seem to mimic humbler buildings and natural
features, such as the small drum columns along the
bottom of many Puuc walls, which imitate the stick
walls of village huts. The communities that lived in
these cities were wealthy but fragile, because this
region is one of the driest parts of the Yucatán.
Indeed, severe drought was probably a major reason
why the southern Mayan cities collapsed very quickly,
in AD 920–1000 (see also p36). A one- or two-day
Snake with a human face tour of the main Puuc cities is possible, following the
between its jaws, Labná recognized Puuc Route, south of Uxmal.
Kabah’s Codz Poop

The main façade of the Codz Poop
(Palace of Masks) at Kabah is covered
in over 250 faces of the rain-god Chac,
whose long, curling snout was even
used to form the steps into the palace
chambers. The Maya believed that cover-
ing structures with images of gods
gave the buildings divine powers. El Mirador, Labná
Following pages Carvings at Kabah 31
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Campeche
The old city of Campeche is a remarkable museum piece of
the colonial era. Cobbled streets of aged houses painted in
delicate blues, greens, and ochers still sit within the city walls,
built to fend off pirate attacks when this was one of the great
trading strongholds of the Spanish Empire. Campeche’s real
museum, housed in an old fortress, displays spectacular Mayan
Jade mask, Fuerte
relics from the recently excavated forest city of Calakmul. de San Miguel
Top 10 Sights
1 Parque Principal
2 Cathedral
3 Casa Seis
4 Puerta de Mar
5 Puerta de Tierra
6 Baluarte de Santiago
7 The Malecón
8 Fuerte San Miguel
Museum
Campeche town center 9 Fuerte San José
Special “El Guapo” Museum
buses run to the fort- 0 Edzná
ress museums from
the Parque Principal.
Otherwise, take a taxi. ! Parque Principal
Hub of the old town,
the broad and airy main
La Parroquia, just off square once opened
the Parque Principal directly onto the water-
at Calle 55 no 8, is a front, with landing stages
traditional café with for ships; its 18th-century
excellent breakfasts arcades would have been
and great fish dishes. thronged with sailors and Fuerte de San Miguel
traders. Today, you’ll find
a pleasant café Cathedral
• Map A5
• Tourist information:
amid the trees. @ Begun in the 1560s, Cam-
peche Cathedral (left) was built
Casa Seis, Parque
in many stages and not com-
Principal and Av Ruiz
pleted until the 19th century.
Cortines; (981) 816
Its lofty façade, facing the
6767; www.campeche
main square, is one of the
travel.com
oldest parts, designed in a
• Museo de las Estelas
Spanish Renaissance style
Mayas, 8am–7:30pm
typical of many churches built
• Puerta de Tierra,
in the reign of King Philip II.
9am–8pm; free
• Fuerte San Miguel,
8:30am–7:30pm
Tue–Sun; adm $2.50
£ Casa Seis
A gracious old house on
the west side of the square,
• Fuerte San José,
restored and furnished to re-
8am–7:30pm Tue–Sun;
create the home of a prosper-
adm $2.50
ous 19th-century Campeche
• Edzná ruins: 8am–
merchant. As well as contain-
5pm; adm $3 Mon–Sat
ing a tourist information desk,
• www.inah.gob.mx
the house’s patio features
concerts and exhibitions.
34
TT-CY_034-035_Campeche.indd 34 17/7/08
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4:16:06 PM
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When the city walls % Puerta de Tierra
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Miguel around Campeche. pirate history.
^ Baluarte
Santiago
de
This isolated bastion has

been imaginatively used
to house a dense and
verdant botanical garden,
with giant palms and
other lush tropical flora.
& The Malecón

The long waterfront
has been attractively
restored and is a popular
place for locals to take an
evening stroll. There are
often superb sunsets
over the Gulf of Mexico.
* Fuerte San
Miguel Museum ( Fuerte
Museum
San José
This former hilltop fortress, Another sturdy Spanish

3 km (1.5 miles) south of fortress, north of the city
the city, is now home to a (right). It houses the Post-
fine collection of Mayan Conquest sections of the
The Pirate Plague
relics, including a set of town’s museum. Won-
extraordinarily beautiful derful sea and city views Between the 1560s and
jade funeral masks. from the ramparts. the 1680s Campeche
was attacked again and
) Edzná
About 50 km (30
again by pirates such as
Henry Morgan and the
miles) southeast of Cam- Dutchman known simply
peche, the ruined Mayan as “Peg-Leg”. Finally, the
city of Edzná rivalled Spanish governors and
Chichén Itzá and Uxmal city’s merchants had
in size and wealth. At its enough and ordered the
heart is the magnificent building of a solid ring
palace-temple complex, of walls and bastions.
the “Building of the Five Thus Campeche became
Stories” (left), one of the one of the largest walled
largest and most intricate cities in Spanish America.
of all Mayan buildings.
TT-CY_034-035_Campeche.indd 35 17/7/08
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AM
Left Mayan writing Center Fort at Campeche Right Mexican revolutionary poster
Moments in Yucatán History

! 2000 BC–AD 100:
Early Cultures $ 1150–1520: Post-
classic Revival
The Maya emerge in After a 200-year gap,
the Yucatán perhaps Mayan culture is re-
as early as 2000 BC. vived on a modest
But it is not until scale in the northern
300 BC–AD 100 that Yucatán, with the city
the distinctive charac- of Mayapán. Smaller
teristics of their cities, such as Tulum,
culture appear – such Cozumel, and El Rey
as a writing system, (Cancún), develop near
calendar, and city states. For Olmec the Yucatán coast and
these attributes, the Maya carving become important links in
owe much to the first great a trade route running
culture of Ancient Mexico, the between the Aztecs of Central
Olmecs, who thrived between Mexico and South America.
1500 and 300 BC.
@ 250–900: Classic Era % 1517: Spaniards Arrive

An expedition led by
Mayan Civilization Francisco Hernández de Córdoba
For over 500 years in the Classic sails from Cuba and makes the
era, Mayan civilization flourishes first Spanish landfall in Mexico
throughout the Yucatán, Chiapas, on Isla Mujeres. It continues to
northern Guatemala, and Belize. Campeche and Champotón, then
And, from about 650, the culture is attacked by the Maya and
expands vigorously in the north- forced to turn back.
ern Yucatán, reaching its peak at
Chichén Itzá and Uxmal.
^ 1526–42:
Conquest
Spanish
£ 800–950: Collapse of
Mayan Civilization
The Yucatán is conquered on the
third attempt by conquistadores
In the relatively short span of
about 150 years, Mayan civiliza-
tion almost disappears, most
likely due to a series of catastro-
phes – overpopulation, over-use
of exhausted land, intensification
of inter-Mayan wars, and drought.
The southern city states are left
deserted, and the Mayan writing
system virtually disappears. In the
north, the decline is later, and the
cities are never entirely abandoned. Painting of the Spanish Conquest
36
TT-CY_036-037-History.indd 36 1/12/06 1:25:10

1:24:35 PM
led by three members of the Gods and Spirits of
Montejo family. Having been
besieged for months in the ruins
the Ancient Maya
of ancient Ti’ho, they make this
the site of their new city of Mérida.
! Itzamná
Paramount god in the
Postclassic Yucatán, the

inventor of writing and the
& 1821: Independence

As Spain’s American Empire
god of medicine.
collapses, the Yucatán, which has

had its own administration under
@ Ixchel
The goddess of fertility,
childbirth, and weaving.
Spanish rule, grudgingly agrees
to become part of an independent
Mexico, but declares indepen- £ Maize God
One of the foremost gods,
dence a few years later. In 1842 created by the First Mother
a Mexican attempt to reincor- and First Father (maize was
essential in ancient America).
porate the Yucatán by force is
beaten back.
$ Hero Twins
In Mayan myths, the
twins Hunahpú and Xbalanqué
* 1847: Caste War Begins
Mayans across the Yucatán have many adventures and
defy the forces of death.
rise against their white and mes-
tizo (mixed-race) rulers in the best-
organized Native American revolt % Chac
Mayan god of rain and
anywhere in the Americas since lightning, identifiable in car-
the Conquest – and they almost vings by his long, curling snout.
succeed. The main Caste War is
over by 1850, but rebels continue ^ Tlaloc
A Central Mexican god of
to defy Mexican authority until rain and war, with strange,
1902 – some carry on until 1930. round “goggles” on his eyes.
( 1860–1910: & Kukulcán

A powerful bird-serpent,
Henequen Boom the Central Mexican god
The Yucatán’s economy is trans- Quetzalcoatl was known in
formed as global demand soars the Yucatán as Kukulcán.
for sisal rope, made from the
henequen cactus. This “green * Vision Serpents
Conduits between men
gold” is the best rope in the and the gods, they were
world until the arrival of synthet- summoned up by Mayan lords
ics in the 1950s. Vast new wealth and shamans during rituals.
is reflected in Mérida’s extrava-
gant mansions, theaters, and ( Cosmic Turtle
Another symbol of water
other attractions for henequen and the earth. In the Mayan
magnates and hacienda-owners. creation myth, the Maize God
The boom even partly survives emerges through a crack in
the Mexican Revolution, which the shell of the cosmic turtle.
begins in 1910.
) Earth Lord
The Maya viewed the
) 1971: Tourism Arrives

Another economic trans-
earth as a living being, which
could be kindly or monstrous.
Monstermouth temples (see
formation begins as the first
p30) are often representations
hotel opens in Cancún, the of the Earth Lord.
dawn of the tourism era.
37
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1:24:40 PM
Left El Rey, Cancún Right Masks, Edzná
Popular Mayan Ruins

dense forest and lakes
(bikes can be rented). The
Nohoch Mul, at 42 m
(138 ft), is the highest
pyramid in the Yucatán
(see p89). d Map F3
$ Ek-Balam
This compact city
was little known until
recently. Excavations of
Ball Court, Cobá its largest temple-mound
in 1998 revealed spectac-
! Chichén Itzá
The most dramatic of the
ular carvings, especially at El
Trono (“The Throne”), the largest
Mayan cities has gigantic build- and most extravagant of Mayan
ings, including the great pyramid monstermouth temples. Other
that has become a symbol of the unique buildings include an almost
Yucatán (see pp22–5). d Map E3 spiral-shaped tower, La Redonda,
the design of which is a mystery
@ Tulum
A small city from the last
(see also p98). d Map F2
decades of Mayan civilization,

Tulum is spectacular as the only % Dzibilchaltún
Just north of Mérida, this site
Mayan city built above a beach was occupied for over 2,000 years.
(see pp18–19). d Map G4 At dawn on spring and summer
equinoxes, the sun strikes straight
£ Cobá
The largest and most power-
through the open doorways of
the Temple of the Seven Dolls
ful city in northern Yucatán before and along a road. There’s also a
the rise of Chichén Itzá. Buildings great swimming cenote here
are spread over a huge area of (see pp53 & 105). d Map C2
The three-story, 90-room palace at Sayil
38
TT-CY_038-039-MayanRuins.indd38 38
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^ Uxmal
A hugely
Top 10 Quieter Ruins
atmospheric ! ElTheRey, Cancún
relics of the historic
city with some occupiers of Cancún Island
of the finest (see p9) .

Temple of the Seven Mayan build-
Dolls, Dzibilchaltún ings, in the
Nunnery Quad-
@ ElTheMeco, Cancún
most important city
near Cancún in pre-Hispanic
rangle and the Governor’s Palace times (see p78).
(see pp28–31). d Map C4
Kabah
£ San Gervasio,
Cozumel
& Second in importance Capital of the island when it
was one of the great pilgrim-
among the Puuc cities (see p31) age centers of Mayan Yucatán
after Uxmal, to which it was (see pp10–11).
linked by a sacbé or Mayan road.
A grand arch over the end of this
path forms a pair with the arch at
$ Xel-Ha
One of the oldest Mayan
sites near the modern Riviera,
Uxmal (see p29). The great high- with ancient murals of birds
light is the Codz-Poop or “Palace (see also p19).
of Masks,” with a façade that has
over 250 long-nosed Chac faces
(see also p106). d Map C4
% Muyil
A very old Mayan site next
to the Sian Ka’an reserve, with
several pyramids amid the
Sayil
* Among the wealthiest of the
forest (see p21).
Puuc towns, with around 17,000

inhabitants in AD 850. Its mag-
^ Aké
Built of massive columns
and huge stone slabs, this city
nificent Palacio has been likened is unlike anywhere else in the
to ancient Greek buildings. The Yucatán, making it a challenge
Mirador pyramid was the center to archeologists. d Map C2
of the town’s market area (see
also p106). d Map C4 & Xcambó
A tiny site, probably an
offshoot of Dzibilchaltún, with
( Labná
One of the most beautiful of
a Catholic chapel built onto
one of its pyramids. d Map C2
all Mayan sites, in a wooded
valley full of colorful birds. Walk- * Oxkintok
Ancient city just west of the
ing around it gives a strong im- Puuc area. It rivalled Uxmal in
pression of the life that went on size, and has a bizarre temple-
here. Though small, it has fine labyrinth. d Map B3
buildings, above all the Arch of
Labná (see p106). d Map C4 ( Xlapak
Smallest of the Puuc
sites. Its Palacio has a frieze
) Edzná
Another of the largest and
of elaborately carved Chac-
masks. d Map C4
wealthiest cities of Classic-era
Yucatán (see p36). Its huge ) Mayapán
The last major Mayan city,
palace, the “Building of the Five which dominated the Yucatán
Stories”, is the largest and most from 1200–1450, has striking
complex of all Mayan multistory painted frescoes. d Map C3
buildings (see also p35). d Map B5
39
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Left Church at Ticul Center Portico, Mérida Right Tiled icon at Santa Lucia, Mérida
Colonial Towns
! Valladolid
Valladolid combines distin-
by two huge monasteries,
which give Tizimín a distinctly
guished colonial architecture Mediterranean appearance
with the easygoing atmos- (see also p100–101).
phere of a Yucatán market
Izamal
town. Whitewashed arcades
and 17th-century houses sur- £
Known as La Ciudad
round the main plaza, and Dorada, the Golden City,
among the town’s many because of the ocher wash
churches is a fine Franciscan of its buildings, this is the
monastery (see p42). Right most complete and un-
in the middle of the town is changing of Yucatán
a huge cenote, which once Statue, colonial towns. At its heart
provided all Valladolid’s Valladolid is the largest of the
water, and nearby at Dzitnup Yucatán’s Franciscan monasteries
(see p52) are some of the (see p43), and a short distance
Yucatán’s most spectacular cen- from this are the glowering
otes for swimming (see also p97). pyramids of a much older Mayan
city. Horse-drawn carriages,
Tizimín
@ The name comes from the
victorias, are a favorite way of
getting around (see also p99).
Mayan tsimin, a kind of demon,
Mérida
which was also used to describe
the Spaniards when they first $
The Yucatán’s capital, found-
appeared on horseback. Today it’s ed by the Spaniards in 1542 on
the capital of Yucatán’s “cattle the site of the Mayan city of
country,” between Valladolid and Ti’ho, has a seductive appeal.
Río Lagartos. The pleasant twin Whitewashed Spanish houses
plazas in the center are divided with shaded patios provide
delightful places to
stay. Despite the
bustle of its market
(and traffic), amid
the city’s old
squares life still
proceeds at a
leisurely, friendly
pace (see pp26–7).
% Acanceh
An extraordin-
ary little town in
Izamal which over 2,000
40
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years of time are ex- contains the oldest

pressed, from its an- Franciscan mission-
cient Mayan edifices ary monastery in the
to a fine 18th-century Yucatán, the scene
Spanish church. of dramatic events in

d Map C3 1562 (see p43). The
town was the seat
Ticul
^ of Tutul Xiu, the first
The epitome of Colonial house doorway, Campeche of the Mayan lords
the slow-moving, un- to accept Spanish
fussy, friendly atmosphere of a authority in 1542. The monastery
small Yucatán country town, Ticul and town square occupy the top
also makes an excellent base for of an old Mayan temple-platform.
visiting the Puuc ruins (see p31). d Map C4
Shoes are the town’s traditional
Teabo
product, and it also has the
Almendros Restaurant, credited (
With an air of tranquility, this
with presenting Yucatán country remote town clusters around its
cooking to the outside world grand and lofty Franciscan
(see p71). church, built in 1650–95. In the
sacristy are rare murals of saints,
Oxcutzcab
& The south of Yucatán near
discovered by accident in the
1980s. Teabo is also known for
the Puuc hills is a fertile, fruit- its fine embroidery. d Map C4
producing region. Oxcutzcab has
Campeche
a huge market, where Mayan
women in huípiles (white dresses )
The most complete Spanish
with bright embroidery) preside walled city in Mexico, Campeche
over stalls stacked with succulent is full of reminders of the era
mangoes, papaya, oranges, water- when it was a trading hub of
melons, and more. Above them Spain’s empire and looked upon
is the lofty tower of the town with greed by Caribbean pirates.
church, finished in 1645. d Map C4 In recent years the old city – with
its churches, patios, Andalusian-
Maní
* Now wonderfully sleepy, this
style grill windows, and façades
in delicate pastel colors – has
town was important at the time been restored to refresh its
of the Spanish Conquest, and distinctive charm (see pp34–5).
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TT-CY_040-041-Colonial.indd 41 18/02/08
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Left Iglesia de Jésus Center Mérida Cathedral Right Las Monjas
Churches
epitomizes the plain, austere style
favored by the Franciscan friars
who brought Catholicism to the
Yucatán. Founded in 1549, its huge
atrio, or courtyard, was designed
to hold great crowds of Mayans
in open-air Masses. d Map D2
£ Mérida Cathedral
The first cathedral completed
in mainland America was built by
local conquistadores in a style that
the church leaders considered far
too extravagant. The design is, in
fact, quite simple, with few
decorative flourishes, and the
church’s soaring white stone
San Bernardino Sisal, Valladolid interior has great solemnity. The
figures that you pass on the way
! San Bernardino Sisal,

Valladolid
in, flanking the imposing main
entrance, represent saints Peter
The oldest permanent church in and Paul (see also p26). d Map C2
the Yucatán began as part of a
Franciscan monastery in 1552. It
was located outside Valladolid so $ Iglesia de Jesús, Mérida
Built for the Jesuit Order and
as to function both as a place of completed in 1618, the Jesús
worship for the Spanish towns- has a gilded Baroque interior that
folk and as a mission for Mayan contrasts strikingly with the sim-
villagers. Inside is a spectacularly plicity of the Franciscan churches.
painted Baroque altarpiece. The On the exterior, look out for traces
cloister surrounds an overgrown, of carvings on some of the stones
palm-filled garden with a – they were taken from Mayan
massive stone well from temples (see also p27).
1613, built over a d Map C2
natural cenote (see
also p97). d Map E3
% LaMérida
Mejorada,
@ San Antonio de
Padua, Izamal
This large church with
a very Spanish-looking
The vast monastery of plain façade was built
Izamal, painted ocher as part of a major
and white like the rest Franciscan friary in
of the town (see p40), Doorway, La Mejorada 1640. It was the last
42 Note: Most churches are open around 7am–1pm and 4–9pm daily,
but times can vary with little warning. Nearly all are free.
TT-CY_042-043-Churches.indd42 42
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occupied monastery in lighter style than those of
Mérida, and closed only the early Colonial period.
in 1857. Behind the The churches at Teabo
church, some of the and Oxcutzcab are simi-
former monastery build- lar (see p41). d Map C4

ings now house a school Altar detail,
of architecture. d Map C2 Maní Monastery
( Campeche Cathedral
Mérida and Campeche
^ Las Monjas, Mérida

The church of “The Nuns”
began their cathedrals around
the same time, but the stop-start
was built in the 1590s as a chapel construction at Campeche meant
for one of the first closed convents that while the central façade was
in the Americas. The castle-like finished in the 1600s, the tower
mirador, or watchtower, with its on its left was added only in the
unusual loggia (covered balcony) 1750s, and that on its right as
was built so that the nuns could late as the 1850s. d Map A5
take the air without leaving the
convent. Sombre metal grills in-
side the church recall the separa- ) San Roque, Campeche
Campeche’s churches are
tion that was kept between nuns generally more colorful than those
and lay worshippers. d Map C2 of Mérida and central Yucatán.
San Roque is an extravagant
& Maní Monastery

The first of all the Franciscan
example of Mexican Baroque,
with an opulent altarpiece
missionary monasteries in the surrounded by intricate white
Yucatán, consecrated in 1549, plasterwork. d Map A5
was built very simply,
with a massive stone
façade and cavernous
cloister. Set within the
façade was an external
altar or “Indian Chapel,”
so that open-air
services could be held
in the square. In 1562,
after the Franciscans
discovered that many
Mayans were practis-
ing their old religion in
secret, an auto da fé
was held in the square,
during which the friars
burned hundreds of
Mayan manuscripts
and pagan relics (see
also p41). d Map C4
* Tekax
Completed in
1692, this huge yet
finely proportioned
church was built in a Campeche Cathedral
43
TT-CY_042-043-Churches.indd43 43
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Left Tulum Right Puerto Morelos
Beaches
town, with its placid,
safe waters. The
island is a good-value
diving center (see
also pp16–17).
£ Puerto Morelos
Despite its loca-
tion between Cancún
Cancún and Playa del Carmen,
Puerto Morelos has
! Cancún
This resort has the longest
avoided big-scale development.
There’s plenty of space along the
stretch of beach, backed by the long, white beach, where pelicans
biggest hotels and malls, and hang in the wind. A great snorkel-
with the most attractions, from ing reef (see p46) lies close to
parasailing to water parks. The the shore (see also p76).
beaches on the north side of the
island are the best for swimming
and beach-life, but can get rather $ Playa del Carmen
The hippest and fastest-
crowded. On the surf beaches growing spot on the Mayan
along the east it is always Riviera, with good shopping,
possible to find a spot to yourself strolling, bar-hanging, and
(but check safety conditions, see people-watching opportunities in
p119). (See also pp8–9.) town, and miles of wonderful
palm-lined bays stretching away
@ Isla Mujeres
Isla’s small size means it has
to the north. To the south, the
Playacar development has its
a more laid-back beach scene, own, narrower beaches (see
especially on Playa Norte by Isla also pp12–13).
Left Playa Norte, Isla Mujeres Right Playa Tukan, Playa del Carmen
44
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% Cozumel
The island’s fan base is split
into three: divers, cruise passen-
gers, and families. The finest
diving locations are in the distant

reefs, but the tranquil beaches
along Cozumel’s west coast are
wonderful for a first experience
of snorkeling. San Miguel town
has a touristy but easygoing feel Akumal
(see also pp10–11).
a beach for a while. Head to the
Puerto Aventuras
^ This Mediterranean-style north end for cheap cabins where
you get to know your neighbors,
resort town was purpose-built or turn south for more seclusion
from scratch around a natural and seductive comforts in some
inlet in the coast. It now contains cabins (see also pp18–19 & 47).
the Riviera’s best-equipped
yachting marina, surrounded by a
smart holiday village of villas and ( Progreso
Every weekend and in July
condo apartments. There’s also a and August thousands of Merida-
Dolphin Discovery Center (see nos head up the road to Progreso,
p17), a golf course, tennis to lie on the beach and eat in its
center, and several big hotels. many great seafood restaurants.
The atmosphere is bustling,
& Akumal
A lovely area that extends
friendly, and very Mexican. The
opal-colored sea is ideal for
through beautiful, sweeping bays swimming (see also p105).
of white sands and gentle seas.
Some big hotels have opened,
but along most of the bays are ) Celestún
Most tourists go to Celestún
secluded condo apartments and only to see its flamingos (see
villas. It’s an excellent diving p49), but it is also a tranquil
center (see also pp47 & 88). village with an endless white-sand
beach lined by fishing boats. There
* Tulum
The favored place in the
are some very enjoyable beach
restaurants (see p111) and often
Yucatán for anyone wanting to wonderful sunsets over the Gulf
settle into a palm-roofed cabin by of Mexico (see also p105).
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TT-CY_044-045-Beaches.indd 45 18/2/08
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Left Paradise Reef Right Snorkeling
Diving Reefs
! Reefs around Cancún
Despite busy beaches and £ Paraíso, Cozumel
Cozumel offers the greatest
the relatively small size of the extent and variety of reefs for
closest reefs, there’s still lots to snorkelers and divers of every
see here. “Jungle” snorkeling level of experience, and visibility
tours take you through man- is ideal. Paraíso and nearby
groves in Laguna Nichupté and Chankanaab are “must-sees”,
to the reef off Punta Nizuc (see with parrot fish, silver shoals of
also pp8–9). d Map K4 & K6 snappers and strangely shaped
coral just below the surface (see
@ Manchones, Isla Mujeres

A fascinatingly varied reef,
also pp10–11). d Map R5
1 km (half a mile) long, but only

10 m (30 ft) deep for much of it. $ Palancar, Cozumel
An extraordinary coral moun-
The Sac Bajo area, just off the tain riven with giant canyons that
lagoon south of Isla Town, is seem to fall straight from the
excellent for snorkeling, and there surface to the invisible depths of
are spectacular reefs far- the ocean. Nearby, the Yucab and
ther from the island El Cedral reefs are also famous
(see also pp16–17). for their colonies of moray eels
d Map L2 and groupers, and tree-like coral
heads (see also pp10–11). d Map Q6
% Puerto Morelos
One of the most vibrant of
the mainland beaches and now
officially protected as a parque
maritimo. The reef is unusually
close to the shore, and so is
great for snorkel tours and
introductory diving. The few dive
and snorkel operators in Puerto
Morelos give personal, friendly
service (see also p76). d Map R3
^ Playa del Carmen

and Chunzubul
Playa is the base for several very
high-standard dive operators, who
take beginners’ groups and experi-
enced divers to the reefs nearby
and elsewhere along the Riviera
Fish swimming amongst the coral (see also pp12–13). d Map Q4
46 For a list of dive centers in the Yucatán see p124
TT-CY_046-047-DivingReefs.indd 46 1/12/06 1:41:32

1:41:00 PM
Top 10 Reef Animals
! Fan Corals
Delicately veined fronds
coming up from the ocean
floor, which wave graciously

in the undersea currents.
@ Sea Cucumbers
Tube-like creatures with a
tough, spiny skin that can be
seen lying motionless on the
seabed or in clefts in the coral.
£ Snappers
Among the commonest
Turtle fish here, yellowtail, blackfin,
and other snappers move in
& Xpu-Ha
The superb reefs offshore
huge, gleaming shoals.
here are a favorite destination for $ Angelfish

Spectacularly colorful fish,
Playa del Carmen dive operators. with a fan-like shape and
Angelfish, triggerfish and parrot luminous stripes and patches
fish are abundant, along with a in yellows and electric blue.
luxuriant range of coral (see also
pp86–9). d Map P5 % Sergeant Majors
Bright, darting, little fish,
recognizable by their black
* Akumal
The beaches here are an
and yellow vertical stripes.
important breeding area for sea

turtles, which coexist with the
^ Pufferfish
Bizarre fish that, when
provoked, inflate themselves
development along the bays. The by taking in water in order to
reefs fringing the beaches are deter attackers.
wonderful for snorkeling and
diving (see also p88). Akumal is
also an important cave-diving
& Parrot Fish
These come in many
varieties and sizes, but most
center, with the Villas de Rosa are very colorful and look as if
Hotel (see p130). d Map P5 they are smiling amiably.
( Tankah
A less well-known beach
* Rays
Spotted eagle rays,
elegantly waving their “wings”
with just a few hotels (see p130) as if to fly through the water,
that’s great for relaxed snorkeling are common around some of
and diving away from the crowds. the Cozumel reefs.
As at Akumal, the reef comes
quite close to the shore (see ( Barracudas and Sharks
Many varieties are found
also p90). d Map P6 around the Yucatán reefs –
but attacks on humans are
Tulum
) This is the Riviera’s biggest
almost unknown.
center for cave-diving (see pp52– ) Turtles

Now endangered, sea
3), but dive operators also take turtles come ashore to lay
snorkelers and divers to the reefs their eggs on sandy beaches
nearby, in a deliciously clear sea along the southern Riviera.
(see also pp18–19). d Map P6
47
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Left Coral reef Center left Sea life from Rio Lagartos Center right Turtles Right Stork
Wildlife Reserves
! Isla Contoy
This uninhabited island £ Puerto Morelos
The reef off Puerto Morelos
reserve north of Isla Mujeres is is one of the least disturbed
home to a huge range of sea sections of coral near the main-
birds, including pelicans, land in the northern part of the
boobies, and frigate birds, Maya reef and is now protected
and contains mangroves, as a marine park. Snorkelers can
turtle-breeding beaches, see spectacular marine life
and superb coral lagoons. – lobsters, giant sponges,
One-day tours are run by luminous parrot fish, and
many dive shops and agencies angelfish. Dive operators
from Isla and Cancún; check in the town offer low-impact
what your tour includes (see Isla Contoy snorkel and diving tours
also p17). d Map H1 Pelican (see also p46). d Map R3
@ Parque Punta Sur, Cozumel

A very large area across the $ Sian Ka’an
Biggest by far of the Yucatán’s
southern tip of Cozumel with an nature reserves, this vast expanse
impressive variety of landscapes of empty forest, mangroves, and
– forest, dunes, turtle beaches, lagoons gives an extraordinary
snorkeling reefs, and tranquil glimpse of nature almost
mangrove lagoons – plus croco- untouched by human habitation,
diles, flamingos, and countless and in all its complexity. Tulum is
other birds. There are observa- the starting point for trips into the
tion towers, an information reserve (see pp20–21). d Map F6
center, and a maritime museum,
and you can climb the Punta
Celaraín lighthouse (see also % Punta Laguna
Spider monkeys are quite
p11). d Map R6 common in the Yucatán but often
hard to see. Set in very
dense forest around a
lake near Cobá, this
small village-run
reserve is one of the
places to find them.
Villagers will guide
you to the best spots,
and monkeys are
most likely to be
around in the early
morning and early
afternoon (see also
Punta Sur p90). d Map N4 • daily
48 For information on eco and adventure tours see p124
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Uaymitún
^ Río Lagartos
A huge, long, narrow lagoon
birds from North America. d Map
C2 • Free; donations appreciated
of creeks, mangroves, and mud-
and salt-flats along the north coast
of Yucatán that is tinged pink with ( Celestún
The most famous flamingo
colonies of 20,000 flamingos in colonies in the Yucatán are in
the peak August breeding the lagoon beside this little town
season. Fascinating, great-value on the west coast. Launches run
boat trips are run from Río from a visitor center toward the
Lagartos and nearby San Felipe pink streaks of flamingos on
(see also pp55 & 98). d Map F1 the horizon, passing fishermen’s
huts, ibises, and many other
& Bocas de Dzilam

Much more remote, this
birds – an ornithologist’s delight
(see also pp55 & 105). d Map A2
giant expanse of uninhabited
mangrove lagoons extends west
of San Felipe and also contains ) Campeche Petenes
The north of Campeche
flamingo colonies and a variety State behind the coast consists
of birds and other undisturbed of mangrove lagoons and
wildlife. Getting there, with a petenes – “islands” of solid land
boat trip over open sea, is a real within the swamp, which have
adventure. d Map D1 • Boatmen in special microclimates all of their
Río Lagartos, San Felipe, and Dzilam own. Within the area are flamin-
Bravo can be hired to take you to the gos, deer, and even pumas.
mangrove lagoons • Trips last a full day Visitor facilities are very limited.
d Map A4 • Boats can be hired in the
Uaymitún
* For easy bird-watching in the village of Isla Arena, and tours are
offered in Campeche
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49
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Left Puma, Xcaret eco-park Center Dolphin Discovery Right Parque Garrafón
Eco-Parks and Theme Parks

you can swim or dive
with the dolphins,
ride on them, or be
pushed along in the
“footpush”. d Map L1 •
(998) 849 4757 • www.dolphin
discovery.com • Programs at
10am, noon, 2pm & 4pm
daily • Adm • Min age 8
• Reservations essential
Aqua World $ Parque Garrafón,

Isla Mujeres
A broad, natural
Aqua World, Cancún
! A multi-activity fun center on
pool of rock and coral is the
central attraction. There’s also a
Cancún Island offering jungle tours, swimming pool, and snorkeling
submarine rides, jetskiing, snorkel- reefs just offshore. Good for
ing, diving, fishing, parasailing, novices. d Map L2 • (998) 877 1100
dinner cruises, and tours to Isla • www.garrafon.com • Summer: 8:30am–
Mujeres and Cozumel. d Blvd 6:30pm (to 5pm in winter) • Adm
Kukulcán, km 15.2 • Map K5 • (998)
848 8300 • www.aquaworld.com.mx
• 7am–3pm daily • Charges per activity % Tres Ríos
Thick forest, cenotes, jungle
streams, mangrove lagoons,
Parque Nizuc, Cancún
@ The biggest water-fun park
beaches, and reefs are all found
within this big eco-park north of
in Cancún has an interactive dol- Playa del Carmen. Bikes and
phin pool, a snorkeling pool with kayaks are included in the ticket;
rays and innocent sharks, and a optional extras include horse
bungee-jump. But the biggest riding, snorkeling, reef-runner
highlight is the Wet’n’Wild water
park, with slides, rides, and wave
pools for all ages (see also p78).
d Blvd Kukulcán, km 25 • Map J6
• (998) 193 2000 • www.parquenizuc.com
• 10am–5pm daily • Adm
£ Dolphin Discovery
There are three of these sea
enclosures – on Isla Mujeres, at
Chankanaab on Cozumel, and at
Puerto Aventuras. At Cozumel Parque Nizuc
50
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tours, scuba diving,

a kids’ club, paintball,
and a blindfolded walk
that allows you to
experience the forest

through touch and
smell (see pp76–7).
d Map R4 • (998) 887
8077 • www.tres-rios.com
• 9am–5pm daily • Adm Xcaret eco-park
^ Xcaret
The Riviera’s original eco-
swim a bit away from the landing
stages, you’ll still find plenty of
park provides a spectacular fish and coral. There are also
introduction to the richness and forest trails to explore (see also
variety of a tropical environment, p88). d Map P6 • (998) 883 0524 • www.
all in one space (see pp14–15). xelha.com.mx • 9am–6pm daily • Adm
& Laguna
Cozumel
Chankanaab,
) Dos Ojos Cenote and
Hidden Worlds
A great place to see Cozumel’s The upper chambers of the
undersea treasures with an easy world’s longest underwater cave
swim, this small nature and system, the Dos Ojos Cenote,
snorkeling park lies close to the are used by the Hidden Worlds
Chankanaab and Paraíso reefs center for one of the Yucatán’s
(see p46) and includes a beach, most exciting tours. After a hike
a botanical garden, and a Dolphin during which a guide points out
Discovery center (see entry 3). features of the forest, visitors
d Map R5 • 8am–6pm daily • Adm can snorkel or scuba dive through
crystal-clear cave waters in giant
* Aktun-Chen
From the highway near
arched-roof caverns (see also
p19). d Map P6 • (984) 877 8535
Akumal, a dirt track leads west • www.hiddenworlds.com.mx • Tours
through thick bromeliad-filled at 9am, 11am, 1pm daily • Adm
jungle to a nature park set around
a vast cave and cenote system. (O&X\R ,VOD+ROER[ ,VOD
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TT-CY_050-051-ThemeParks.indd 51 18/2/08
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Left Cenote Kantun-Chi Center Samula Right Dos Ojos
Cenotes and Caves

! Cenote Kantun-Chi
There are several cenotes on £ Gran Cenote
The loveliest of several
the landward side of the highway cenotes open to swimmers
near Xpu-Ha that can be easily along the road from Tulum to
accessed by visitors. A broad, Cobá. Gran Cenote has a placid,
shady pool dappled by brilliant clear pool, and snorkelers can
sunlight, Kantun-Chi is near make their way through a
the road but refreshing for massive, arched cavern and
swimming. Neighboring cenotes down along a tunnel. d Map N6
Cristalino and Azul are also • Sunrise–sunset daily • Adm
beautiful. d Map P5 • www.kantunchi.
com • 9am–5pm daily • Adm
$ Cenote Dzitnup
The most famous of the
@ Dos Ojos Cenote

This cavern is called “Two
swimmable cenotes, a vast
limestone cathedral. Via a narrow
Eyes” because its two entrances tunnel you enter a truly awe-
look like eyes when seen from inspiring chamber with a pool of
above. Extending over 60 km perfect turquoise water at the
(37 miles) through a labyrinth of bottom. Tour groups tend to visit
caverns and limestone “trees,” it about 11am–noon, but at other
has been considered the world’s times it’s rarely crowded (see
longest underwater cave system also p97). d Dzitnup village, 5 km
– but the nearby Nohoch Nah (3 miles) W of Valladolid • Map E3
Chich cenote may be even longer. • 8am–5pm daily • Adm
Inexperienced divers get most
from it with the Hidden Worlds
tours (see pp19 & 51). d Map P6 % Cenote Samula
Another spectacular cavern-
pool next to Cenote
Dzitnup. Past a
narrow entrance
there’s a huge pool
of cool, clear water,
(V
and in the middle of
the cave the roots
of a giant ceiba tree
– associated with
mystical powers by &HOHVW¼
the Maya – stretch

straight down from
the surface to reach &
the water far below. 6DQ

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d Dzitnup village • Map
Cenote Dzitnup E3 • 8am–5pm daily • Adm
52 Cenotes, sink-holes or water-filled caves in the limestone rock, are

among the unmissable features of the Yucatán – see also p19
TT-CY_052-053-CavesCenote.indd 52 18/2/08
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^ Balankanché
Caves
but is a relaxing place
for a dip at other
As well as cenote times of the week
pools and underwater (see also p105).
rivers, the Yucatán is d Map C2 • 8am–5pm

underlain by a huge daily • Adm (Sun free)
web of dry caves,
Calcehtok
sacred places to
the ancient Maya. Scared Cenote, Chichén Itzá These little-known (
Balankanché, near caves near the Mayan
Chichén Itzá, is one of the ruins at Oxkintok (see p108) are
largest and most extraordinary some of the region’s most
cave systems (see also p98). d extraordinary. The roofless main
Map E3 • Daily, guided tours only • Adm chamber is big enough to contain
whole trees, and is full of birds.
& Sacred Cenote,

Chichén Itzá
d Map B3
The most celebrated cenote in the

Yucatán, the giant sacred well at ) Loltún Caves
An astonishing cave system
Chichén (see p23), has long been not far from the Puuc cities (see
said to have been a place of p31), with the longest history of
human sacrifice. The cenote was human habitation in the Yucatán.
used only for ritual purposes, Chambers are full of bizarre rock
perhaps as a channel to the formations, strange airflows and
Underworld, since the city’s relics of their Mayan occupants
drinking water came from the (see also pp106–7). d Map C4
Xtoloc Cenote, near the • Open daily; guided tours only • Adm
Caracol. d Map E3
• Adm as for Chichén Itzá
* Cenote Xlacah,
Dzibilchaltún
The wide, round
cenote that provided
water for the ancient
city of Dzibilchaltún is
still a popular swim-
ming hole today. It
gets busy on Sundays Cenote Xlacah, Dzibilchaltún
(VMGPG.FYJDP 5¯R/DJDUWRV (O&X\R ,VOD+ROER[

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Left El Paraiso,Tulum Center Holbox Right Río Lagartos
Places To Get Away From It All

£ Akumal
Not a remote spot, but the
curving beaches here are very
long and often occupied only by a
few small-scale hotels and condo
apartments. It’s quite easy to
find uncrowded space at Akumal,
by an idyllic sea and with creature
comforts included. There are also
Puerto Morelos excellent diving facilities here
(see also p88). d Map P5
! Puerto Morelos
An undisturbed gem of the
$ Tulum
Mexican Caribbean, which has kept The epitome of a tropical
its mellow, fishing-village feel des- paradise: palm-shaded cabins
pite close proximity to Cancún. No only a few steps from a vividly
real nightlife, but lovely beaches, colored sea, and with just
and many small hotels and candlelight and the sound of
apartments offer long-term rates waves at night. The bargain
(see also pp48 & 76). d Map R3 cabañas at the north end of the
beach are slightly noisier, so
@ Punta Bete
A well-rutted track off the
head south for pure tranquility
(see also pp18–19). d Map P6
main Highway just north of Playa
del Carmen leads in three bumpy
kilometers (2 miles) to superb, % Punta Allen
The atrocious state of the
curving beaches of dazzling white road keeps visitor numbers down,
sand and a perfect turquoise sea. but the trek deep into Sian Ka’an
Some resort hotels have opened (4-wheel-drive only) takes you to a
up here, but there are still clus- tiny fishing village of sand streets
ters of laid-back beach cabañas and giant palms, with landing
(see p126) among the palms stages by the beach and a few
(see also p76). d Map R4 easy-going restaurants and
The bay at Punta Allen
54
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welcoming places to stay. Local

guides offer snorkeling, bird-
watching, and fishing trips (see
also p21). d Map G5

^ Holbox
If the Riviera seems just too
busy, take a long drive north from
the Cancún–Mérida road to the
tiny port of Chiquilá. Hop on a
ferry to cross the beautiful lagoon
(where dolphins are common) to
reach the island of Holbox. Here
you’ll find the simple pleasures
of a friendly village, a long, empty Hacienda Katanchel, Mérida
beach, and some very mellow
places to stay (see also p79). you can sample a delightfully
d Map G1 peaceful village, its beach strewn
with fishing boats (see also pp49
& ElWithCuyo
just one hotel, two sets
& 105). North of Celestún is a
really remote beach retreat at
of beach cabañas, and a couple Xixim (see p126). d Map A2
of places to eat – with great fresh
fish – this Gulf-coast fishing village
is for anyone who really does ) Hacienda Hotels
A seductive escape is offered
want a beach all to themselves (at upscale prices) by the hotels
(see also p100). d Map F1 scattered around the Yucatán in
beautifully converted old Colonial
* Río Lagartos and

San Felipe
haciendas (country estates). All
have luxurious rooms surrounded
Celebrated for the spectacular by tropical gardens, with superb
flocks of flamingos in the lagoon pools and fine restaurants (see
to their east (see p49), these also p127).
villages delight visitors
with their unhurried,
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01:17:45 PM
Left Tennis in Cancún Center Dive shop, where sea-fishing trips can be arranged Right Cycling
Sports and Activities

£ Sailing, Windsurfing,
and Kayaking
The best places to rent boats are
Isla Mujeres and Cozumel. Hotels
may have dinghies for guests.
Windsurfing is at its finest around
Isla Mujeres and Akumal, and the
best kayaking is around Puerto
Playacar Golf Club Morelos, Punta Solimán (see
p91), or Tres Ríos (see pp50–51).
! Golf
Golfers on the Riviera have a
d Aquaworld (998) 848 8300
choice of two championship-level

courses at Cancún, one in Playa- $ Tennis
Many resort hotels have
car and one at Puerto Aventuras. tennis courts. In Cancún, Hotel
Hotels can book greens for you. Omni’s courts are open to all,
There is also a private club north while those at Hotel NH Krystal
of Mérida, which can be booked are for residents. The Club de
through hotels. d Club de Golf Golf Cancún (see entry 1) has
Cancún (998) 883 1230 • Palace Resort two courts. d Hotel NH Krystal (998)
(01800) 672 5223 Extn. 2 • Puerto 848 9800 • Hotel Omni (998) 881 0600
Aventuras Golf Club (984) 873 5109
@ Fishing % Cycling
The most attractive places
Conditions for deep-sea and to get around by bike are Cancún,
inshore fishing are outstanding, Isla Mujeres, Tulum, and Valladolid,
and the lagoons south of the where there’s a lovely cycle path
Riviera by Ascension Bay are a to Cenote Dzitnup (see p52).
must for fly-fishing fans. The Many Cancún hotels have bikes,
peak deep-sea fishing season is and there are rental shops in
March–June (see box, right). the other three destinations.
Horse Riding, Cozumel
56 For information about diving and snorkeling, see pp46–7
TT-CY-056-057-Sports.indd 56
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Top 10 Fishing
Locations
! Cancún
For easy-access, fun
fishing, with trips available

Touring a Mayan village from watersports centers like
Aqua World (see p50).
^ Horseback Riding
Take group treks at Rancho @ Isla Mujeres
Highly regarded by deep-
Loma Bonita, near Puerto
sea fishing enthusiasts, with
Morelos, Rancho Buenavista on able captains who seek out
Cozumel, and at Tres Ríos and amberjack, marlin, and more.
Xcaret (see pp14–15, 50–51).
d Rancho Loma Bonita (998) 887 5465
• Rancho Buenavista (987) 872 1537
£ Cozumel
A base for many expert
deep-sea captains who also
Extn. 120 offer trips to the inshore flats.
& Parasailing
Soar above Cancún with the
$ Puerto Morelos
Much lower key than the
islands, but deep water close
“Skyrider” from Aqua World
to shore means superb fishing.
(see p50). More basic parasailing
operations are found along Cancún
beach and at Playa del Carmen. % Playa del Carmen
Many Playa dive shops
also arrange fishing trips,
especially in the sailfishing
* Skydiving
Sky Dive Playa will give you
season (Mar–Jun).
the long-distance view of the

Riviera as you plummet on the ^ Puerto Aventuras
The most luxuriously
back of an instructor, or on your equipped fishing center on
own if you have skydiving the coast. Hosts a big deep-
sea tournament each May.
experience. d Sky Dive Playa (984)
873 0192 • www.skydive.com.mx
& Boca
Allen
Paila and Punta
Fly-fishing and above all

( Air Tours
Aerosaab, at Playa del bonefish followers make their
way to the remote fishing
Carmen, offers aerial sightseeing lodges along this road.
tours over the Riviera, Chichén
Itzá, and other parts of the
Yucatán Peninsula, for around
* Holbox
A long way from the
$150 per person. d Aerosaab convenience of the Riviera,
but loved by fishermen who
(984) 873 0804 • www.aerosaab.com like a really relaxing time.
) Jungle Tours
Playa-based ATV Explorer
( El Cuyo
The one bar, La Conchita, is
the place to go to find a boat
lets you race through the woods
and a guide. Shark fishing is a
on four-wheel ATVs (All-Terrain specialty of the north coast.
Vehicles). Alltournative offers
group trips by truck, jeep, and
kayak. d ATV Explorer (984) 873
) Río Lagartos
No well-organized facilities,
1626 • Alltournative (984) 803 9999; free but boatmen here will show
you their fishing grounds as
from USA and Canada (800) 507 1092 well as the flamingo lagoons.
• www.altournative.com
57
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145581 2:30 W2k-2
1 058 18/02/08 K40 00
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Left Xcaret Center Left Xel-Ha Center Right Punta Laguna Right Iguana, Uxmal
Attractions for Children

! Parque Nizuc, Cancún
The number one fun center
organized, with opportunities to
pet and feed baby crocodiles,
in the region. As well as the deer, monkeys, parrots, and less
adrenaline-pumping rides that familiar animals such as tepez-
older kids love – the Wave Pool, cuintles (a kind of big rodent).
Bubba Tub, and Twister d Highway 307, km 30 • Map R3
– the Wet’n‘Wild • (998) 850 3719 • www.
section also has a crococunzoo.com • Summer:
Kids’ Park with 9am–6pm daily (to 5pm in
gentler rides and winter) • Adm
slides for young
Tres Ríos
children. The Baxal-
Ha snorkeling pool,
Crococún
£
All the region’s
with rays and harmless sharks, is eco-parks (see pp50–51) are
another big thrill for ages 8-plus. family-friendly, but Tres Ríos
d Parque Nizuc, Boulevard Kukulcán goes a bit further with a special
km 25 • Map J6 • (998) 881 3000 Kids’ Club, where parents can
• www.parquenizuc.com • Summer: leave small children to play and
10am–6pm daily (to 5pm in winter) • Adm join in group activities in the
forest and park (see also pp76–7).
@ Crococún Crocodile Park

Kids meet crocs (over 300 of
d Map R4 • www.tres-rios.com • 9am–
5pm daily • Adm
them) at this attractive small zoo
of all-local wildlife. Multilingual
guides give informative, enter- $ Laguna
Cozumel
Chankanaab,
taining tours, and it’s well- One of the most enjoyable and
accessible places for even small
children to be dazzled by a real
new experience – a first introduc-
tion to snorkeling and the under-
water treasures of the Cozumel
reefs. The sea is very placid and
there’s coral and abundant sea
life just off the beach. In the same
park there’s also a coral lagoon, a
botanical garden, and a Dolphin
Discovery center (see p50).
d Map R5 • 6am–6pm daily • Adm
% Playa Mia, Cozumel

Cozumel’s beach clubs offer
all the fun of the sand and sea,
Parque Nizuc, Cancún plus restaurants and loungers in
58
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and exploring its lush

forest setting (see
also p88). d Map P6
• (998) 884 9422
• www.xelha.com.mx

( Punta Laguna
Getting to see
local wildlife in the
natural habitat, rather
than in zoos or nature
Xel-Ha parks, can take a lot
of time and effort, but
the shade. Playa Mia has the at this small reserve north of
best choice of things to do for Cobá you can see spider monkeys
older children – snorkeling, beach jumping through the trees after
games, kayaks, banana boats – just a little exciting exploration.
and has a Kids’ Club for little ones. Village guides lead the way –
d Map R6 • dawn–dusk daily • Adm deer, wild boar, and lots of birds
can likely be seen too (see also
^ Xcaret
The first and most famous of
pp48 & 90). d Map N4 • daily
the eco-parks provides lots for

kids to enjoy, in an easy, family- ) Uxmal
Some kids love Mayan ruins;
centered environment. The others don’t. But one that most
snorkeling river and dolphin pool frequently scores a hit is Uxmal.
are the biggest hits, but children Not only does it have lots of
can also enjoy the zoo, butterfly steps and temples for running
garden, and forest paths (see also around, but it is also home to
pp14–15). d Map Q4 • (998) 883 3143 huge numbers of iguanas, which
• www.xcaret.com.mx • Summer: 9am– sit stock still until surprised, then
7pm daily, winter: 8:30am–6pm daily • Adm dart off with sudden alacrity.
Some are as big as crocodiles,
& Laguna Yal-Ku, Akumal

This winding rock pool of
but they’re all harmless, no
matter how scary they may look
brilliant turquoise water right at (see also pp28–31). d Map C4
the north end of Akumal’s Media
Luna Bay is one of the natural 6DQ$QJHO
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TT-CY_058-059-Childrens.indd 59 18/02/08
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Left Coco Bongo Center Hard Rock Café Right Carlos‘n’Charlie’s
Nightspots
! Coco Bongo, Cancún
The most state-of-the-art of
take over, usually playing to a
mixed crowd of tourists and
them all among Cancún’s mega- locals (see p81). d Map L4
clubs, a vast, multilevel, multi-
space venue with music that
covers all the bases – techno, $ Dinner
Cancún
Cruises,
rock, Latin – from DJs and live For a slightly more sedate time
bands, and a space to eat. Ultra- try another Cancún specialty,
extravagant theme nights, live with live shows, games, dinner,
shows, and other eye-popping and dancing to live bands all on
surprises are house specialties board as you sail around Laguna
(see p81). d Map L4 Nichupté or to Isla Mujeres. Each
one is themed: Cancún Queen
@ Dady’O, Cancún
Always the most popular
(from Aqua World,(see p50) is like
an old stern-wheeled riverboat,
among American student the Columbus Lobster Dinner
“Springbreakers,” this equally Cruise is on a replica Columbus-
huge venue across the street era galleon, and Captain Hook’s
from the Coco Bongo guarantees Pirate Night is, of course, on a
a noisy, down-home party pirate ship (see also p81).
atmosphere – theme parties are d Columbus Cruise, Royal Mayan Marina,
a permanent feature. Next door, Blvd Kukulcán km 16.5 • Map K3
the only slightly smaller Dady • (998) 848 8300
Rock is a live venue with a bar-
restaurant, plus more fun and
games (see p81). d Map L4 % Blue Parrot, Playa del
Carmen
Playa del Carmen has changed
Bulldog, Cancún
£ If a Mexican band like Café
enormously since its original
beach bar opened in the early
Tacuba or Molotov is
playing in Cancún,
they are probably
playing at the Bulldog.
This nightspot is a
little smaller than the
other clubs in the
neighborhood, but
tables are set up in
stadium-like tiers
which ensures that
there is no bad seat in
the house. On non-
show nights, DJs Blue Parrot
60 Note: In the big Cancún clubs, admission charges vary according

to what’s on – they’re usually between $15 and $25
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Cozumel. Live rock
bands perform every
night. There’s also a
big Hard Rock in
Cancún, in the Forum

by the Sea Mall (see
p82). d Map R5
( Carlos ‘n’Cozumel
Charlie’s,
Enjoyable, crowd-
pleasing food and a
La Santanera non-stop, bright-and-
breezy party
1990s, but through it all the atmosphere are the keys to the
Parrot has remained the number- success of the Anderson group’s
one place to meet up and bar-restaurants, found all around
mingle. There’s always a buzzing Mexico under several jokey names
scene, and you get a fabulous – Carlos‘n’Charlie’s, Sr. Frog’s
view of the moon over the sea (p82), and El Shrimp Bucket. The
(see p81). d Map Q4 Cozumel C‘n’C in Punta Langosta
mall is one of the biggest (see
^ Diablito Cha Cha Cha,

Playa del Carmen
also p93). d Map R5
At this stylish lounge, black and

white floor tiles contrast with red ) Pancho’s, Mérida
Nightlife in Mérida is much
and green furniture – an allusion more low-key than on the Riviera,
to the colors in the Mexican flag. but Pancho’s, with its vaguely
While you sip a vanilla martini Mexican-bandit theme, is consis-
and snack on Asian-style seafood tently the most enjoyable venue
the eclectic music ranges from in the middle of town. Lively
rockabilly to electronica to socializing is helped along by the
homegrown pop (see p82). fast and friendly staff, and at the
d Map Q4 back there’s a dance floor under
the stars (see p110). d Map C2
& LaPlayaSantanera,
del Carmen
Centrally located close to the
main avenues in Playa del
Carmen, this club features two
separate levels playing different
sounds (electronica downstairs,
house music upstairs). It’s a fun
place for people of all ages, who
come here to dance, drink, and
enjoy the good ambience (see
also p81). d Map Q4
* Hard Rock Café, Cozumel

The familiar burgers-and-
rock‘n’roll format found the world
over is right by the waterfront in Pancho’s
61
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Left Teatro de Cancún Right Azúcar, Cancún
Live Attractions
! Mariachis, Cancún
High-quality mariachi $ Xcaret
The live show at the
bands perform traditional end of each day in Xcaret
Mexican songs in many of (included in the park ticket)
the region’s restaurants. presents many sides of
This style of music dates Mexican traditions in color-
back to the nineteenth ful fashion, beginning with
century when Maximilian an impressive display of
was emperor of Mexico. cowboy skills, going on to
d La Parrilla, Av Yaxchilán 51 imagined versions of pre-
• Map K4 • (998) 884 5398 Conquest Mayan
• OK. Maguey, Blvd Kukulcán rituals and dances,
km 13 local 173 • Map L4 and ending with folk
• (998) 885 0503 dances and music from
Dancer, Teatro de Cancún around the country, from
Teatro de Cancún
@ This comfortable theater
mariachis to the soft,
dulcet tones of Yucatán boleros
hosts two colorful, all-singing, (see also pp14–15). d Map Q4
all-dancing shows each weekday
Bullfights
night: Voces y Danzas de México
showcases Mexican traditional % Full-scale Spanish-style bull-
music and dance, while Tradición fights take place starting the last
del Caribe is a more wide-ranging Wednesday in December for 20
show with the rhythms of Cuba, weeks in Cancún’s bullring,
Venezuela, Santo Domingo, and preceded by a charro (cowboy)
other spots around the Caribbean. display – and sometimes cock-
d El Embarcadero, Blvd Kukulcán km 4.5 fighting too. There’s also a
• Map K3 • (998) 849 4848 • Different bullring in Mérida that’s used
shows are performed at different times less frequently, and bullfights
throughout the night feature in many Yucatán town
fiestas (see p64). d Plaza de Toros
£ Azúcar, Cancún
Cancún’s premiere Latin
Cancún, corner of Av. Bonam-pak and Av.
Sayil • Map J3 • (998) 884 8372 •
dance venue, where salsa fans Bullfights: 3:30pm Wed
can try out their slickest moves
to top bands from Puerto Rico,
Venezuela, Cuba, and around the
Caribbean. It’s a comfortable
venue, and explosive, pulsating
performances are guaranteed.
d Punta Cancún, next to Hotel Dreams
Cancún • Map L4 • (998) 848 7000 Extn.
7980 • From 9:30pm Mon–Sat Azúcar, Cancún
62
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temples are drama-
tically lit in changing
colors (included in
the site ticket). Some
parts of the commen-

Sound and light show, Chichén Itzá tary, “imagining” the
cities’ ancient his-
^ Charrerías
A charro is a Mexican cow-
tory, are pretty far-fetched, but
the visual effects are certainly
boy, in the famous outfit of big spectacular (see also pp22 &
sombrero and embroidered jacket 29). d Map E3 & C4
(charras are cowgirls, in similar
hats but flounced skirts), and a
charrería is a Mexican rodeo, a ( Serenatas
Campeche
Campechanas,
spectacular, competitive display Campeche showcases its

of rope tricks, steer-wrestling, and traditional music and dances with
astonishing horsemanship. There’s free concerts in the charming
no fixed charrería program in setting of the Colonial patio of
Cancún, but they come up fairly the Casa Seis and, with a more
often. Mérida’s charro ring eclectic program, from the
has a similarly irregular bandstand of the Parque
schedule. d Rancho del Principal (see also p34).
Charro Cancún, Carretera d Map A5 • Performances: Casa
del Aeropuerto km 4.5 Seis, 8:30pm Thu
• Map J4 • (998) 887 5963
& Serenatas ) Sound and Light

Show, Campeche
Yucatecas, Mérida The Puerta de Tierra, or
The very best intro- “Land Gate,” in the old
duction you can have to city walls of Campeche
the Yucatán’s distinctive Charrería (Mexican rodeo) provides the backdrop
music and folklore – the for a spectacular audio-
gentle, romantic music of guitar visual show that uses the archi-
trios, the graceful jarana dance – tecture well to evoke tales of
is to go to one of these free pirates, sea battles, and other
concerts in the lovely setting of events in the city’s maritime past
Mérida’s Parque Santa Lucía. (see also p35). d Map A5 • Perfor-
Held every Thursday for nearly mances: 8pm Tue, Fri, Sat in winter; 8pm
40 years, they are loved by locals daily at Christmas, Easter, and summer
still more than by
tourists. d Map C2
• Performances: 9pm Thu
* Sound and
Light Shows
at Mayan Ruins
The great Mayan
cities of Chichén
Itzá and Uxmal are
used as venues for
daily shows in
which their giant Demonstration of Mayan ritual, Xcaret
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Left Mérida en Domingo Right Day of the Dead decoration
Festivals
! Carnival
The biggest and
brightest celebration
of the year in the
cities of the Yucatán.
In Cancún and
Cozumel the streets
fill with music, danc-
ing, food stands,
and a little Río-style
parading. The biggest
Carnival in southern Carnival celebrations in Mérida
Mexico, though, is in
Mérida. d About one week before Lent and the striking of the rising sun
through the Seven Dolls temple
Feast of Three Kings,
@ Tizimín
at Dzibilchaltún – were timed to
happen on the spring and fall
The capital of Yucatán’s cattle equinoxes. Today, over 80,000
country hosts one of the region’s people visit Chichén for the day;
biggest fiestas. It features a crowds are smaller at Dzibilchaltún
stock fair as well as bullfights, (see pp23 & 105). d Mar 21, Sep 21
traditional music, dancing,
Mérida en Domingo
colorful parades, and plenty of
eating and drinking. d Map F2 % Mérida hosts a free fiesta
• About two weeks from Jan 6 every week, “Mérida on Sunday,”
when the Plaza Mayor and Calle
La Candelaria
£ Valladolid’s main fiesta, the
60 are closed to traffic to make
way for strolling crowds and a
Expo-Feria, centers around the range of events. There are displays
Feast of the Virgin of La Candel- of jarana dancing in front of the
aria. Local girls show off dazzling City Hall and concerts up and
embroidered dresses in the open- down the street, and anyone can
ing parade, followed by free con- dance, too. d Map C2 • Every Sun
certs and shows, and dancing.
Village Fiestas
Campeche has a smaller celebra-
tion. d Map E3 • 12 days around Feb 2 ^ Every village and town in the
Yucatán also has its own fiesta,
Equinoxes, Chichén Itzá
$ and Dzibilchaltún
when the streets are covered in
bright garlands, work ceases,
The visual effects integral to and music is heard non-stop. To
these Mayan cities – such as the find out when any are due, ask
“descent” of the sun down the in tourist offices, look out for
serpents on El Castillo at Chichén posters, or check local papers.
64
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& Cancún Jazz Festival
An innovative mix of young
Traditional Crafts
and Products
performers from Latin America,
the U.S., and Europe – often
playing Latin Jazz and contem-
! Hammocks
The traditional place to
sleep is so much a part of the

porary fusion rather than strict Yucatán that local poets have
jazz – features in this festival. even celebrated it in verse.
Several acts play for free in Parque
de las Palapas in Ciudad Cancún.
d Three or four days, last weekend in
@ Embroidery
Lush flower designs are
made by Mayan women on
May (U.S. Memorial Day weekend) traditional huípil dresses,
handkerchiefs, and tablecloths.
* San Miguel Arcángel,

Cozumel £ Panama Hats
The best palm hats are
Cozumel’s most important tradi-
from northern Campeche; the
tional fiesta is in honor of the place to buy them is Mérida.
island’s patron saint, St. Michael.
For nine days preceding his day,
there are religious processions,
$ Guayaberas
Light, elegant shirt-jackets,
kids’ entertainment, and free accepted as tropical formal
wear, that give men (of a
music and dancing. d Sep 20–29 certain age) instant dignity.
( Cristo
Mérida
de las Ampollas,
% Sandals
Huge racks of traditional
leather huarache sandals can
More solemnly religious than most
be found in all Yucatán markets.
fiestas, with processions culmi-
nating on October 13, when the
figure of “Christ of the Blisters” ^ Wood carving
Many Mayan villagers carve
(Cristo de las Ampollas), kept in wooden figures based on
Mérida Cathedral, is carried ancient images.
through the city before a cere-
monial Mass. d Week before Oct 13 & Jícaras – Gourds
Dried natural gourd bowls,
brightly painted, are a
Day of the Dead specialty of Chiapas, but are
) and All Saints’ Day often seen in the Yucatán.
Sugar skulls, dead bread (pan de
muerto), zempazuchitl fowers, * Silverwork
Jewelry
and
and coffin-shaped decorations Fine silverware from Taxco in

are the mark of Mexico’s most central Mexico is found in
famous celebration, Yucatán stores, as well as
amber from Chiapas.
when people party
to celebrate the
dead on Halloween ( Painted Birds and
Ornaments
and All Saints’ Day Brightly painted wooden
(Todos Santos), parrots, toucans, and boxes
provide one of the prettiest
and families visit images of tropical Mexico.
cemeteries to
picnic by the
graves of their
) Ceramics
Huge numbers of earthen-
own departed ware pots are made in Ticul,
sometimes using pre-
Skull mask, Day relatives. d Oct Conquest techniques.
of the Dead 31–Nov 2
Following pages North Beach, Cancún 65
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Left Sopa de Lima Center Poc-Chuc Right Barbecued chicken stall
Dishes of the Yucatán

! Sopa de Lima
One of the most $ Pollo Oriental de
Valladolid
popular classics of The special pride of
Yucatecan cooking, Valladolid: chicken
“lime soup” is actually quartered on the bone
made with chicken, and casseroled with
boned, chopped in garlic, onion, cloves,
strips, and then slow- and a mix of both hot
cooked with coriander, and mild chilis; it’s
onions, herbs, spices, then quickly roasted in
and masses of local a baste of maize oil
sweet limes. It’s then Conchinita Pibil and bitter orange juice.
served with strips of Another dish with a
dry tortillas for added crunch. rich, densely layered combination
of different flavors. Pavo oriental
Cochinita Pibil
@ A dish that dates back to pre-
is the turkey version.
Relleno Negro
Conquest Mayan cooking – pork
marinated in lime, bitter orange, %
Yucatecan cooking likes rich
and achiote (a hot, spicy mix of concoctions. In relleno negro
dried herbs), wrapped in banana (“black stuffing”), finely ground
leaves and baked in an earthen- pork, peppers, grated hard-boiled
ware dish. Punchy but flavorful, egg, herbs, spices, and a power-
it’s very versatile and can be ful combination of chilis are all
served as a main course or just mixed together to make up a
used to make tacos. Pollo pibil is thick, majestic sauce. Usually
a chicken version of this dish. served with turkey (pavo), the
region’s most traditional meat.
£ Poc-Chuc
Marinating is one of the most
^ Camarón al Mojo de Ajo
characteristic skills of Yucatecan All around the coasts, fish and
cooking, and this delicious dish seafood are restaurant staples.
features pork marinated in the One of the simplest and most
juice of naranja agria (small, bitter delicious ways of cooking the likes
oranges, special to the region), of camarón (prawns/shrimp) and
cooked with onions, herbs, and caracol (conch) is al mojo de ajo,
garlic and served with black beans. fried quickly in hot oil and loads
With a wonderful mix of sweet of garlic. When ingredients are
and savory flavors, it’s very fresh, nothing more is needed.
popular, but debate rages as to
whether it is really traditional or
a creation of Los Almendros & Crepas de Chaya
Tasting rather like spinach,
restaurant in Ticul (see p71). Chaya is a vegetable native to Pollo c
68 Yucatecan dishes are not always fiery, but you can pep them up
with the red and green chili sauces that accompany most meals
TT-CY_068-069-Food&Drink.indd 68 1/12/06 2:39:51

2:39:25 PM
the Yucatán. And, like spinach, it
Snacks
is exceptionally rich in iron and
vitamins. It features in traditional
cooking and new dishes like this
! Ceviche
Raw fish or seafood
marinated in lemon or lime
one, in which it is cooked with juice, and served with salad,

garlic and wrapped in light, soft spices and lots of coriander.
European-style wheat pancakes
(crêpes) and served with a
cheese sauce. Chaya is also
@ Cocteles
Usually, fish or seafood
ceviches served in a glass in a
used to make drinks (see p71). vinaigrette-style dressing.
* Pan de Cazón
Campeche has a distinctive
£ Papadzules
A Mayan dish of chopped
hard-boiled eggs in a sweet
and very varied cuisine of its own
pumpkin-seed sauce, rolled in
that, as befits a port, makes great tortillas – often served with a
use of local fish and seafood. This spicy tomato sauce.
is one of the most popular cam-
pechano favorites, and features
chopped hammerhead shark
$ Panuchos
Small, crisp-fried tortillas
covered in refried beans and
(cazón), mixed with spices and topped with strips of chicken
a tomato sauce; it is served or turkey and chopped tomato,
between two soft corn tortillas. onion, avocado, and chilis.
( Arroz con Pulpo % Salbutes

Similar to panuchos, but
Another Campeche speci- made with a thicker, spongier
alty: a delicious warm salad base instead of crisp tortillas.
that’s much lighter than many
local dishes on a hot, hot day.
Rice (arroz) is mixed together
^ Enchiladas
In southern Mexico, these
rolled soft tortillas with various
with chopped octopus (pulpo), fillings tend to be served with
red peppers, onion, coriander, a rich mole sauce.
and other herbs, and often
mango, papaya, and other fruits,
in a refreshing blend of sweet
& Tacos
Small rolled tortillas filled
with 1,001 possible fillings: at
juice and salty seafood flavors. taco stands, they’re served
rolled up; at taquerías you sit
) Pollo con Mole

Not a native of the Yucatán
and assemble them yourself.
but a central Mexican classic * Fajitas

Pan-fried meat or seafood
that’s found in every part of the served sizzling with bowls of
country. Fried chicken covered in onions, refried beans, chili
mole, a thick, spicy, savory – and sauce, guacamole, and tortillas.
not at all sweet –
chocolate sauce. ( Quesadillas
Small, soft tortillas, folded
Richly satisfying, over and filled with melted
this is one of cheese and sometimes ham,
the oldest uses served with various sauces.
of chocolate,
its flavor com- ) Tortas
Small bread rolls, available
bining perfectly with as many different fillings
with strongly- as tacos.
Pollo con mole spiced meats.
69
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Left La Habichuela Center Chen Río Right El Marlin Azul
Restaurants
! LaCancún
Habichuela,
% Kinich, Izamal
Tucked into a
Excellent Yucatecan secluded garden near
and Mexican cooking, the largest of Izamal’s
with Campeche dishes Mayan pyramids, this
such as camarón al is the place to sample
coco (prawns/shrimp the full range of
with coconut). Fine Yucatecan cooking –
presentation and cochinita, pavo en
original touches, all relleno negro, and a
superbly served in the La Parrilla fragrant sopa de lima
tranquil surroundings (see p103).
of a lush garden (see p83).
@ La Parrilla, Cancún ^ ElIt’sMarlin Azul, Mérida

easy to walk past this
At this colorful restaurant, seafood restaurant and miss it.
Mexican art and music create an Look for a blue awning and a
atmospheric background for the crowd of regulars perched at the
delicious local specialities on the counter – they’re enjoying some
menu, including Mayan dishes. of the best seafood in the city,
Warm ambience, great food, and trucked in daily direct from
affordable prices have made La Celestún (see p111).
Parrilla a successful formula
exported to other centers along
the Riviera (see p83). & Casa de Piedra, Xcanatún
Yucatecan and Caribbean
traditions and ingredients are
Chen Río, Cozumel
# With a fine beach all to itself,
combined with sophisticated
you can spend a leisurely after-

noon here watching the waves and
picking over the house specialty, a
huge platter of mixed seafood, or
sampling the excellent ceviches
and salads (see p95).
$ Los Pelícanos,
Puerto Morelos
Set beneath a giant palapa palm
roof, in a spot above the beach,
this easygoing local institution
serves some of the best ceviches
you’ll ever find, as well as grander
seafood dishes (see p83). Casa de Piedra
70 For an explanation of the Yucatecan dishes, see pp68–9
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Breakfasts and Juices

! Huevos Rancheros
A breakfast classic: tortillas
topped by fried eggs, covered
in spicy tomato sauce, and

served with refried beans.
@ Huevos Motuleños
As above, but with the
Los Almendros addition of peas, ham, and
grated cheese – often served
international styles by a French- with slices of fried banana on
trained chef: a delicate sopa de the side.
lima is a menu fixture, alongside
the chef’s own interesting # Huevos Revueltos
Scrambled eggs, nearly
creations, such as cream of always mixed with a little
poblano chili soup with onion and red pepper, or with
roquefort (see p111). ham (con jamón).
* John Gray’s Place, $ Huevos a la Mexicana

Spicy scrambled eggs –
Playa del Carmen with peppers, chili, chopped
Chef John Gray first arrived in onions, and chorizo sausage.
the Yucatán to open the Ritz-
Carlton in Cancún. He decided to % Chilaquiles
Crisp tortilla chips, baked
stay, and opened his own in a cheese sauce with tomato,
restaurant in Puerto Morelos. His onions, herbs, chili, and
second operation, in Playa del shredded chicken or turkey.
Carmen, is livelier but has the
same simple, fresh food. Try the ^ Platillo de Fruta
A big plate of fresh fruit,
honey-glazed duck and chicken usually including at least
with cilantro pesto, which gained pineapple, watermelon,
Gray his following. The drinks oranges, bananas, and papaya.
here are good too (see p83).
& Agua de Jamaica
Enormously refreshing
Los Almendros, Ticul
( This homey restaurant, local product – an infusion of
dried flowers of jamaica (a
which opened in the 1960s, is kind of hibiscus), diluted to
credited as the first to present make a delicious tall drink.
Yucatecan cuisine to the outside
world. Richly flavored dishes, * Agua de Chaya
Another infusion, this one
charming service, and an of the vegetable chaya (see
essential part of a visit to pp68–9), best mixed with
the Puuc region (see p111). water and a little lemon juice.
) Marganzo, Campeche ( Licuados

Any kind of fruit – papaya,
The city’s own fish and watermelon, pineapple,
seafood specialties headline mamey, etc – pulped and
on the menu – juicy pan de diluted with water and ice.
cazón, and impressive platters
of manitas de cangrejo (crab ) Raspados
Vibrant fruit juices in
claws, served with a mix of crushed ice, packed right to
other seafood, sauces, and the top of the glass.
salad) (see p111).
Recommend your favorite restaurant on traveldk.com 71
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AROUND THE
YUCATÁN
Around the
Mayan Riviera:
CANCÚN AND THE YUCATÁN’S TOP 10

Cancún and
the North
74–83
Around the
Mayan Riviera:
Cozumel and
the South
86–95
The Central
Heartland
96–103
The West
104–111
TT-CY_072-073_RegOpener.indd 73 1/12/06 3:04:45

3:04:09 PM
Around the Mayan Riviera – Cancún and the North
Left Xcaret Center Waterside restaurant, Cancún Right Aviary, Playa del Carmen
Cancún and the North
C ancún is the great magnet at the top of the Mayan Riviera, with
lavish hotels, shopping and dining of every kind, wild nightclubs, theme
parks, water parks, and other fun things to do spread out along
one of the world’s finest beaches. To the south is Playa del
Carmen, a trendier, more compact style of vacation town,
and family-friendly eco-parks that provide an unfor-
gettable introduction to the nature of tropical Yucatán.
For a change from resort life, in the same area there are
also places where the frenetic pace of modern life still
seems delightfully far away – in the ever-mellow Puerto
Morelos, at the spectacular bird reserve on Contoy, and
on laid-back Isla Mujeres. Señor Frog, Cancún
:VDBUÈO$IBOOFM
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Lifeguard’s hut NJMFT LN
74 Previous pages Cancún’s Hotel Zone
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PM
Cancún’s Hotel Zone
! Cancún Beach
Every one of the Riviera’s
8-km (5-mile) long island, the
first place where Spaniards
beaches has the same wonderful landed in Mexico in 1517, has a
fine white sand, which stays very different atmosphere, with
deliciously cool to the touch, but few big hotels, one small town,
Cancún’s is unquestionably the a good choice of cheap places
finest, stretching the whole 23 to stay, and a very easy-going,
km (14 miles) of Cancún Island. unhurried beach-village feel. Isla
Along it, in the Hotel Zone, are is also a great diving, snorkeling,
resort hotels, shopping and enter- and fishing center, with an
tainment centers, snorkeling and exciting range of reefs offshore
fun parks, plus the Mayan ruins (see pp16–17). d Map L1–2
of El Rey (see pp8–9). d Map L4–K6
Cancún Town
@ On the mainland at the north $ Isla Contoy
Mexico’s most important sea-
bird reserve covers the whole of
nd of Cancún Island, Ciudad this uninhabited island. The terrain
Cancún, also known as “Down- is a mix of mangroves, beaches,
town,” was created at the same and coral lagoons that are home
time as the Hotel Zone in the to over 50 species of birds – they
1970s. It’s developed an atmos- contain turtle breeding grounds
phere of its own, though, and too. Day tours are offered by
the main drag of Avenida Tulum dive shops on Isla Mujeres (see
and the nearby squares and also pp16–17, 48). d Map H1
avenues are enjoyable
places to explore,
with plenty of
shopping and great
restaurants offering
traditional Mexican
cooking at low prices
(see pp8–9). d Map J3
# Isla Mujeres
Although it’s only
a short ferry ride away
from Cancún, this Isla Mujeres
75
12/1/06 1:51:03 PM
PM
% Holbox
This tiny island
sits off the north coast
of Yucatán, by a wide
lagoon full of birds and
wild dolphins. On it
there’s one village
with sand streets, a
few hotels, pelicans,
a huge beach, and an Puerto Morelos
ultra-relaxed, friendly
atmosphere. It’s wonderful for The Chicle Boom
fishing, clearing the head, and Long before tourism, this region’s
exploring uninhabited islands biggest business was chewing
nearby (see also p55). d Map G1 gum. When gum was first invented
• www.holboxisland.com • Accessible via in the 19th century it was all made
Chiquilá, 110 miles (180 km) N of Highway with natural chicle, found in the
180; passenger-only ferries cross from wild sapodilla trees of the Yucatán.
Chiquilá to Holbox about every 2 hours Villages like Puerto Juárez and
Puerto Morelos were all founded
(journey time around 20 minutes),
as harbors for exporting chicle,
6am–7pm daily brought in by sapodilla-tappers
who roamed the forests inland.
^ Puerto Morelos
This little fishing town was
the biggest place on this coast
before the rise of Cancún. It has & Punta Bete
Often unnoticed between
avoided overdevelopment and Puerto Morelos and Playa del
retains a low-key atmosphere, Carmen, and kept off the beaten
much loved by the many foreign- track by a bumpy 3-km (2-mile)
ers who own houses here or stay access road through the jungle,
whole winters in its small hotels. this point is flanked by long lines
There’s a beautiful white beach, of palm-fringed bays – perfect arcs
and a superb reef close offshore of dazzling white sand by a smooth
(now protected as a marine park) turquoise sea. They are shared by
that’s wonderful for diving and a few resort hotels, and far more
snorkeling. Local dive operators small-scale (and much cheaper)
and fishing guides give individual, clusters of mellow beach cabañas
friendly service. d Map R3 (see also pp54 & 79). d Map R4
* Tres Ríos
A huge area
around a natural inlet
and cenote rock pools
on the coast has been
made into an eco-park,
with dense jungle,
mangrove lagoons,
reefs, and a delicious
white beach all within
it. Visitors can explore
on foot, bicycle, horse-
Punta Bete back, or by kayak along
76
12/1/06 7:04:48 PM
PM
well-marked paths and jungle Cancún to Playa
streams. Other activities include
snorkeling, diving, a Kids’ Club for Morning
small children, and “sensorama”, Begin by seeing the more
a guided walk using blindfolds, traditional side of Cancún

so as to experience the forest by with a desayuno at one
of the Mercado 28
touch and smell alone. d Map R4
restaurants (see p83), in
• www.tres-rios.com • 9am–5pm daily the town market. Then rent
• Adm a car, head to the Hotel
Zone, and drive the length
of Boulevard Kukulcán.
( Playa del Carmen
The Riviera’s most vibrant
See something of local
street life, by day and night, and history in the Museo de
its hippest crowds can be found Antropología (see p78) in
in its fastest-growing resort town. the Convention Center,
Playa’s long-established cool bars and catch up on Cancún’s
more glitzy side at the
and backpackers’ haunts now mix
Forum by the Sea and La
with modern hotels ranging from Isla complexes (see p80),
big resorts to cosy guest houses. for some mall-hanging and
As well as having wonderful window-shopping.
beaches, it’s great for diving and
Continue down to El Rey
snorkeling (see pp12–13). d Map R4
ruins, to get of an idea of
a compact Mayan city; as
) Xcaret
The largest of the Riviera’s
you leave, walk across the
Boulevard to Playa
eco-parks, just south of Playa del Delfines, for crashing surf
and a spectacular view
Carmen, provides a wonderful
north back along Cancún
introduction to the tropical Island and its beach.
environment of the Yucatán and
a full day’s worth of things to do Afternoon
– from snorkeling and swimming From the end of Boulevard
with dolphins to eye-popping Kukulcán, turn south on
animal and butterfly collections Highway 307 and head for
Puerto Morelos, for a lunch
(see pp14–15). d Map Q4
of deliciously refreshing
seafood ceviche and a cool
beer at Los Pelícanos (see
pp70 & 83), watching the
pelicans hang in the
breeze. Rest up on the
beach, and take a snorkel
so that you can swim over
to the Puerto’s reef.
Carry on south to Playa

del Carmen. Check out
the beach, and the shops
along the Quinta Avenida.
If you’re staying over in
Playa, book a diving or
snorkeling trip for the next
day. As darkness falls, join
the strolling crowds along
the Quinta.
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Left El Rey ruins Center Crococún Crocodile Park Right Playacar aviary
Best of the Rest

! ElThisReywasRuins, Cancún
a relatively small
(see pp16–17) are older than any
other part of Cancún. d Map K1 & 2
Mayan city, but its layout,
including a clearly visible “main
street”, makes it easy to imagine ^ Moon Palace
One of the largest and best
people coming and going, buying equipped of the Riviera’s resort
and selling. d Map K5 • 8am–5pm complexes, in its own area of
daily • Adm jungle to the south of Cancún.
d Map R3 • (998) 881 6000 or (01800)
El Meco Ruins, Cancún
@ The ruins of an important 672 5223 • www.palaceresorts.com
Mayan city, probably founded

in about AD 300. On its palaces & Acamaya
A secluded spot to get away
and squat main pyramid are from just about everything, set
impressive carvings of animals at the end of the bumpy beach
and monsters. d Map K2 • 8am–5pm road north from Puerto Morelos.
daily • Adm There’s a small cabaña hotel and
a camping site. d Map R3
# Museo de Antropología e
Historia, Cancún
* Crococún Crocodile Park
Ceramics, fine jade and coral While crocodiles are the key
jewelry, carvings, and household attraction, monkeys and parrots,
objects from sites around Quin- along with stranger elements of
tana Roo state, in engaging, the local wildlife, are also a draw
labelled displays. d Map L4 • www. (see also p58). d Highway 307, km 30
inah.gob.mx • 9am–5pm daily • Adm • Map R3 • (998) 850 3719 • Summer:
9am–6pm daily (to 5pm in winter) • Adm
$ Parque Nizuc, Cancún

With an interactive dolphin
( Punta Maroma
pool, snorkeling with (harmless) Among the spectacular palm-
stingrays and sharks, as well as fringed bays at Punta Maroma
a Wet’n’Wild water park, this is are several reserved exclusively
the Riviera’s biggest fun park for guests at the luxurious tropi-
(see also p50). d Blvd Kukulcán, cal retreat of Maroma (see
km 25 • Map J6 • (998) 193 2000 p127). d Map R4
• www.parquenizuc.com • 10am–5pm
daily • Adm
) Playacar
The plusher side of Playa del
% Puerto Juárez and

Punta Sam
Carmen, with a fascinating jungle
aviary in the midst of landscaped
The little passenger (Puerto avenues lined with big resort
Juárez) and car (Punta Sam) hotels and private villas (see
ferry ports for Isla Mujeres also p56). d Map Q4
78
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Left Playa Tortugas Right Playa del Carmen
Beaches
! Playa Tortugas, Cancún
One of the best beaches on
however, so there’s no coral
(see also p76). d Map G1
the north side of Cancún Island
for mixing with the partying
crowds. Highlights include the ^ Puerto Morelos
Excellent for carefree
Fat Tuesday bar (famed for its swimming. As well as the fine,
cocktails), diving, snorkeling, mini- uncrowded white sands, there’s
cruises, banana boats, and more. also a reef full of vivid life just
d Blvd Kukulcán, km 5 • Map K4 offshore (see also p76). d Map R3
@ Playa Delfines, Cancún

A great place to find space & Playa del Secreto
A short way south of Puerto
to stretch out in Cancún, with Morelos, this big, broad, white
huge banks of white sand above sand beach is mostly fronted by
pounding ocean surf. There’s an private villas, with scarcely any
amazing view north along the hotels, so there’s never any
beachscape of Cancún Island. shortage of space. d Map R4
d Blvd Kukulcán, km 18 • Map K5
Playa Norte, Isla Mujeres

# The beach bums’ favorite on * Punta Bete
One of the most beautiful
spots on the whole Riviera –
Isla – a compact strip of white palms, white sand bays, and
sand with plenty to keep you en- turquoise sea. A terrible access
tertained, from pedalos, kayaks, road helps keep it that way (see
and snorkeling, to great bars for also p76). d Map R4
laid-back socializing under the
palms. d Map L1
( Playa del Carmen
Playa’s main town beach is
$ Playa Secreto,
Isla Mujeres
the place to go to survey other
sun worshippers, and to show-
Especially good for small kids: a case your skills at beach volley-
broad, sheltered, shallow inlet ball and other seaside pursuits
tucked away from the main North (see pp12–13). d Map Q4
Beach. Its waters are always
tranquil, and the beach is rarely
crowded. d Map L1 ) Chunzubul,
del Carmen
Playa
Keep walking along the beach

Holbox
% One for lovers of real seclu- north from Playa to find endless
space, the best snorkeling and
sion, with miles of beach from diving spots, and nudist beaches.
which to pick a spot that’s just Avoid leaving bags unattended in
right. The island faces the opal the really quiet spots (see also
waters of the Gulf of Mexico, p119). d Map Q4
79
16/7/08 11:54:37
11:35:22 PM
AM
Left La Isla, Cancún Right Avenida Hidalgo, Isla Mujeres Town
Places to Shop
! LaTheIsla, Cancún
latest and most stylish ^ Mercado 23, Cancún
This little open-air market is
of the Hotel Zone’s malls, built a colorful destination where locals
as an artificial island surrounded go to shop for meat, vegetables,
by Venetian-style “canals”. It’s the herbal cures, and even party
place for major fashion names, supplies and piñatas. d Off Avenida
like DKNY and Dolce e Gabbana. Tulum on Calle Cedro • Map J3
d Blvd Kukulcán, km 12.5 • Map K4
@ Plaza Caracol, Cancún & Mercado 28, Cancún

The town market is the
One of the biggest and most place for old-style shopping –
varied of the Cancún malls, with giant stands of huarache sandals
engaging toy shops, lots of beach- and panama hats, and tables full
wear, fine jewelry stores and a of fresh vegetables and fruit –
huge choice of restaurants in an plus a great food court (see p83).
attractive, light-filled building. d Av Xel-Ha and Av Tankah • Map J3
d Blvd Kukulcán, km 8.5 • Map K4
# La Casa del Arte * Avenida Hidalgo, Isla

Mujeres Town
Mexicano, Cancún Isla’s main street, and its main
The gift shop at this folk-art drag for leisurely browsing. Here
museum stocks high-quality and in parallel Av Juárez small
crafts from all over Mexico, shops offer painted wooden
including some fun toys. d Blvd birds, original T-shirts and local
Kukulcán, km 4 • Map K3 shell and coral jewelry. d Map L1
$ Forum by the Sea, Cancún

Shopping highlights here are ( Super
Carmen
Telas, Playa del
perfume and jewelry stores and Fine quality Mexican textiles

fashion labels like Levi’s and (telas), in traditional or original
Diesel. It also has a huge Hard designs, can be found here. A
Rock at its centre, a food court, more original shop than most
and clubs alongside. d Blvd Kukulcán, around Playa’s Quinta Avenida.
km 9.5 • Map K4 • 10am–midnight daily d Constituyentes, Plaza Las Perlas
• Map Q4
Coral Negro, Cancún
% Not a plush modern mall but
) Caracol, Playa del Carmen
a rambling jewelry and handi- The specialities at this two-
crafts bazaar, a few steps from storey boutique are textiles
the Forum. In among its many and embroidery from all over
stalls you can find fine traditional Mexico – particularly Chiapas –
craftwork, as well as a lot of junk. and from Guatemala. d Av 5,
d Boulevard Kukulcán, km 9.5 • Map L4 between Calle 6 and Calle 84 • Map Q4
80
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Left Coco Bongo Center Azúcar Right La Santanera
Nightclubs
! Coco Bongo, Cancún
Cancún’s most high-tech,
d El Embarcadero, Blvd Kukulcán, km 4.5
• Map K3 • From 7pm daily • From 7pm
high-powered, multilevel mega- daily • Adm
club, with a wide-ranging music
menu (see p60). d Blvd Kukulcán,
km 9.5 • Map L4 • (998) 883 0592 ^ Azúcar, Cancún
The best place in Cancún
• From 10:30pm daily • Adm to dance to live salsa, Afro-Latin
merengue and other rhythms
@ Bulldog, Cancún
On weekends, sharply
(see pp62–3). d Punta Cancún, next
to Hotel Dreams Cancún • Map L4 • (998)
dressed local kids gather in front 848 7000 (ext 7980) • From 9pm Mon–Sat
of the Bulldog’s entry staircase,
waiting to get in and dance to
hip-hop and rock en español (see & Pat O’Brien’s, Cancún
Famous for its cocktails, this
p60). d Blvd Kukulcán, km 8 • Map L4 nightclub boasts an outdoor
• (998) 848 9800 • 11pm–4am daily patio, sports bar, and live music.
• Adm d Flamingo Plaza, Blvd Kukulcán, km 11.5
• Map L4 • Open 7am–2am daily • Adm
Dady’O, Cancún
# The college crowd’s favorite
* LaPlayaSantanera,
holds bikini nights and other del Carmen
rowdy fun. Dady Rock, next door, A two-story club offering two
often hosts live bands (see p60). venues in one. Each night DJs
d Blvd Kukulcán, km 9.5 • Map L4 play electronica and house music
• (998) 883 3333 • Dady’O from 10pm (see p61). d Calle 4, between Av 5
daily, Dady Rock from 6pm daily • Adm and Av 12 • Map Q4 • (984) 803 2856
• From 11pm daily • Adm
$ The City
This huge, modern nightclub
( Blue Parrot Beach Club,
also contains a beach club, bar, Playa del Carmen
restaurant, and lounge. d Blvd Dance under the stars at this
Kukulcán, km 9.5 • Map L4 • (998) 848 beachfront club split into two
8380 • Nightclub open from 10pm daily separate venues. DJs perform
• Casual dress but no sandals or bathing nightly. d Calle 12 Norte • Map Q4
suits • Adm • (984) 873 0083 • From 11pm daily • Adm
% Captain Hook’s Pirate

Night, Cancún ) Mambo
Carmen
Café, Playa del
Dinner cruises are normally more If you like to dance to classic

sedate than clubbing in Cancún, tropical sounds mixed with
but Captain Hook’s is still pretty brand-new Latin pop, this is
boisterous, with a “pirate” the place for you. d Calle 6 Norte
crew staging a battle (see p60). • Map Q4 • From 10pm Tue–Sun • Adm
Recommend your favorite nightclub on traveldk.com 81
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Left La Madonna Center Señor Frog’s Right Mamita’s Beach Club
Drinking and Entertainment Spots

! LaA strikingly
Madonna, Cancún
elegant bar- ^ ElThisCafémellow
Cito, Isla Mujeres
place, a few
restaurant in Cancún’s smartest streets from the beach, offers
mall, La Isla, with decor that’s a excellent breakfasts and superior
hybrid of Baroque and Art coffee and fresh juice combos
Nouveau. d La Isla, Blvd Kukulcán, later in the day. d Av Juárez, corner
km 12.5 • Map K4 • $$$ of Av Matamoros, Isla Town • Map L1 • $
@ Señor Frog’s, Cancún

Beside Laguna Nichupté, this & Mamita’s Beach Club,
Playa del Carmen
is one of the most popular Cancún One of the nicest beaches in
outlets of the Anderson group Playa is also the most popular
(see p61). Party atmosphere, daytime party spot, with lounge
often with rock bands, guaranteed. beds and hammocks for rent
d Blvd Kukulcán, km 9.5 • Map L4 • $$ alongside the usual chairs, a DJ,
and strong Margaritas. d On the
# Hard Rock, Cancún

Looking a bit like a giant
beach at Calle 28 • Map Q4 • $$
Roman temple, Cancún’s Hard

Rock is impossible to miss. The * Fly, Playa del Carmen
A spectacular chrome-and-
rock’n’roll bar formula is familiar glass bar that wouldn’t be out of
worldwide, but this one is a real place in New York or Miami
crowd-puller. d Forum by the Sea, Blvd Beach. Luminous house cocktails
Kukulcán, km 9.5 • Map L4 • $$$ are the cool specialty. d Deseo
Hotel, Av 5, by Calle 12
Roots, Cancún
$ A dark, Boho-ish little bar
• Map Q4 • $$
with a Latin-jazz soundtrack.

Roots offers the promise of ( Pez Vela, Playa del Carmen
Ever popular bar-restaurant
“food, music, and art”. There’s a with a huge outside terrace that’s
clutch of other intimate, buzzing one of the fixtures on the Quinta
bars on the same street, just off Avenida promenade. The style is
Avenida Tulum. d Calle Tulipanes 25 hippy-Caribbean, helped along by
• Map J3 • $ chugging reggae and rock bands.
d Av 5, by Calle 2 • Map Q4 • $
Buho’s, Isla Mujeres
% Isla’s funkiest beach bar.
) Diablito Cha Cha Cha,
With a palm roof to give shade, Playa del Carmen
it’s right on the sand, just steps With comfortable sofas and a
away from the sea, and offers stylish clientele, this is the place
Mexican snacks to go with the to warm up before hitting the
cocktails and chilled beers. bigger dance clubs (see p61).
d Playa Norte • Map L1 • $$ d Calle 12 at Av 1 Norte • Map Q4 • $$
82
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Price Categories
For a three-course $ under $5
meal for one with a $$ $5–$10
beer or soda (or $$$ $10–$20
equivalent meal), taxes $$$$ $20–$35
and extra charges. $$$$$ over $35

Left La Habichuela Right La Parrilla
Places to Eat
! JC Capitán, Cancún
This seafood restaurant over- ^ Manolo’s, Isla Mujeres
In a pretty garden patio, this
looking the lagoon is beautiful at charming, family-run restaurant is
sunset, and a great place to try delightfully relaxing. On the menu
spicy camaronillas (fried shrimp are classic Yucatecan seafood
in tortillas). d Blvd Kukulcán, km 19.6 dishes. d Av Juárez, between Mata-
• Map K6 • (998) 885 3126 • $$$$ moros and Abasolo, Isla Town • Map L1
• No credit cards • $$$
@ LaA charming
Habichuela, Cancún
specialist in
& Los Pelícanos,
Yucatecan and Mexican tropical Puerto Morelos
seafood in a softly lit garden by One of the all-time best beach-
the tranquil Parque de las Palapas terrace restaurants, a wonderful
(see p70). d Calle Margaritas 25 place to linger over its renowned
• Map J3 • (998) 884 3158 • $$$$$ seafood cocktails, or one of the
subtle fish dishes (see p70).
# LaLa Parrilla
Parrilla, Cancún
offers a good
d On the Plaza • Map R3 • $$$
range of Mexican favorites such

as grilled meats, soups, and * LaPlayaCasadeldelCarmen
Agua,
fondues. Daily mariachi music This stylish café-restaurant-gallery

creates a warm atmosphere (see surveys the Quinta Avenida bustle
p70). d Av Yaxchilán 51 • Map J3 from an airy balcony. The menu
• (998) 884 5398 • $$$$ features an imaginative, Mexican-
European mix. d Av 5, by Calle 2
$ LaIslaCueva del Pirata,

Holbox
• Map Q4 • (984) 803 0232 • $$$$
Handmade pasta, shrimp, loads

of garlic, and a convivial Italian ( John Gray’s Place,
Playa del Carmen
chef-owner combine to make Whether upstairs in the dining
this one of the nicest restaurants room or downstairs at the bar,
on this island. d West side of the John Gray’s delivers excellent food
plaza • Map G1 • (984) 875 2183 • $$$$ in a warmly lit, minimalist setting
(see p71). d Calle Corazon, off Av 5
% Mercado
Cancún
28 Restaurants, • Map Q4 • (984) 803 3689 • $$$$$
The courtyard of the town market

is packed with canopied tables ) Coctelería Las Brisas,
Playa del Carmen
spilling out from restaurants. The This big terrace-restaurant has a
traditional food served, such as straightforward style, but its fresh
pollo con mole (see p69) is fun local seafood is some of the best
and cheap. d Av Xel-Ha and Av Tankah in town. d Calle 4, between Av 5 and
• Map J3 • No credit cards • $$ Av 10 • Map Q4 • No credit cards • $$
Note:â•‡ Unlessâ•‡otherwiseâ•‡stated,â•‡allâ•‡restaurantsâ•‡serveâ•‡vegetarianâ•‡ 83
meals;â•‡phoneâ•‡numbersâ•‡includedâ•‡onlyâ•‡whereâ•‡appropriate
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Around the Mayan Riviera – Cozumel and the South
Left Snorkeling Center Puerto Aventuras Right Tulum
Cozumel and the South
T he southern stretch of the riviera is

the less publicized, less built-up part of this
coast, but still offers the choice between luxury
1
Sights
Cozumel
2 The Cozumel Reefs
resorts and out-of-the-way places – except that 3 San Gervasio, Cozumel
here the resorts are not so hectic, and the 4 Puerto Aventuras
untouched corners are more remote. Offshore, 5 Xpu-Ha
Cozumel is a super-relaxing island that offers 6 Akumal

7 Xel-Ha
fantastic diving opportunities. Onshore are some
8 Tulum
of the Caribbean’s most dazzling tropical beaches, 9 Cobá
such as the seven bays of Xpu-Ha and the 0 Sian Ka’an
crescent of Media Luna Bay. They lead down the
coast to the great beach refuge of Tulum, with its
Mayan temple ruins. A little way inland is another
great Mayan site, the forest-clad city of Cobá.
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86 Previous pages Monastery of San Antonio, Izamal (see p99)
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Laguna Chankanaab, one of Cozumel’s shoreline reefs
! Cozumel
Gleaming jewelry stores
cities, but there are many of
them – and discovering them,
along the waterfront in San through woods full of wonderful
Miguel combine with an easy- scents, flowers, and birds,
going, small-town charm that has involves a lovely walk (see p11).
long made this island a favorite d Map R5 • (998) 849 2885 • 8am–5pm
with families. It’s a great place to daily • Adm
settle into at a leisurely pace,
maybe going diving one day,
then exploring a little the next: $ Puerto Aventuras
The biggest, most opulent
around the island are Mayan resort on the southern Riviera, a
ruins, windblown cliffs, a specially created vacation village
fascinating natural wildlife park at around an inlet that’s now a
Punta Sur, and lovely beaches pretty pleasure port lined with
and snorkeling spots on the west shops and restaurants. The nine-
coast (see pp10–11). d Map R5 hole golf course is attractive, and
the marina is the best-equipped
@ The Cozumel Reefs

Cozumel’s greatest glory is
on the whole Riviera, making
it a popular base for serious
its 20-plus coral reefs, an awe- deep-sea fishing enthusiasts. In
inspiring undersea world of caves, another part of the harbor you
canyons, and coral “forests” can swim with dolphins (see
teeming with life – from sea p50). d Map Q5
cucumbers and brilliantly luminous
angelfish to graceful rays and the
occasional shark. The water boasts
almost perfect clarity, and Chan-
kanaab and Paraíso reefs are close
inshore, so can be appreciated
even by inexperienced divers and
snorkelers (see p11).
# San Gervasio, Cozumel

The ruins of the Mayan
capital of Cozumel, conquered by
Cortés and his Spanish soldiers
in 1519, are in the middle of the
island. Its buildings are small
compared to the great Mayan San Gervasio ruins
For places to stay on Cozumel see pp128–133 87
17/7/08 12:06:08
02:31:42 AM
PM
% Xpu-Ha
Along these seven
gracefully sweeping
bays, 3 km (2 miles)
south of Puerto
Aventuras, are some

of the Riviera’s most
idyllic beaches, with
exuberantly alive reefs
and some of the most
exquisite turquoise
waters. Several are
now occupied by Tulum coast
resort complexes (the
Xpu-Ha Palace, the Copacabana, The Sacbé of Cobá
Robinson Club). However, two Cobá was the center of the largest
(signposted X-4 and X-7 from the network of sacbé, or Mayan stone
Highway), are still open to roads, in the Mayan world. They
anyone, and at X-7 there are connected the parts of the city, as
some small cabañas, a camping well as vassal-cities. About AD
site, and a dive shop. d Map P5 800 Cobá built the longest ever
sacbé, of over 100 km (60 miles),
to Yaxuná in the west, to help
^ Akumal
Long a favorite dive destina-
reinforce it in the wars with
Chichén – unsuccessfully, as Cobá
tion, with fabulous reefs and was defeated shortly afterward.
places for cave diving, Akumal
has grown a good deal without
being overwhelmed. It spreads
over several long, lovely bays – & Xel-Ha
One of the most luxuriant
Media Luna is the most beautiful, coral inlets on the coast has been
with the delightful Yal-Ku lagoon made a “snorkel park” that’s one
(see p59). There are more of the Riviera’s most popular
apartments, villas, and small attractions – experienced divers
hotels than big developments, may find it tame, but the easy
so it’s still quite easy to find snorkeling is great for families.
secluded spots – certainly the Around it is a forest park and a
turtles try to, and the beaches beach. Just outside the park and
near Akumal village are favorite across the Highway are the
breeding grounds. d Map P5 Mayan ruins of Xel-Ha (see p90).
d Map P6 • (998) 883
0524 • www.xelha.com.
• 8am–6pm daily (to 7pm
in summer) • Adm
* Tulum
A ruined temple
of a Mayan city, the
Castillo, rises up on
a crag above a long,
long palm-fringed
beach, interrupted
Xel-Ha by rocks and curving
88 For the best beaches on Cozumel and around the south see p91
TT-CY_086-089-Cozumel1.indd 88
3/12/06 12:06:44 AM
1:44:35 PM
headlands as it stretches 11 km Cozumel in a day
(7 miles) down to Sian Ka’an. All
along it are clusters of palm- Morning
roofed cabins. There’s good Start with breakfast, coffee,
diving and fishing offshore, and or a drink at Las Palmeras

around it is one of the best areas (see p94), watching the
new arrivals off the Playa
in the world for cave diving (see del Carmen ferry. Browse in
pp52–3). d Map P6 the jewelry and souvenir
shops along the waterfront
( Cobá
This huge Mayan city – once
and in the streets around
the square, but don’t buy
anything yet. Rent a car
home to around 50,000 people – and head out of town down
was the great rival of Chichén Avenida Juárez to the
Itzá. It’s a very different place to Mayan ruins of San
visit from Chichén Itzá or Uxmal Gervasio. If you hire the
– it’s unusually spread out around services of a guide at the
entrance don’t let them
several large lakes, and to find hurry you, but take time to
its massive buildings you follow notice the birds and
fascinating walks through thick vegetation – as much of
forest full of birds and plants. an attraction as the ruins.
Yucatán’s tallest pyramid is here
Back at the main road,
(see also p38). d Map M5 head left to meet the east
• www.inah.gov.mx • 8am–5pm • Adm coast at windswept Punta
Santa Cecilia. Turn south
) Sian Ka’an
Mexico’s largest wetland
down the road beside the
rocks and waves for a lunch
of mixed fish and seafood
nature reserve, Sian Ka’an brings on the beach at Chen Río
the Riviera to an end just south (see p95).
of Tulum. IIts vast area of nearly
untouched mangroves, jungle, Afternoon
and beaches contains an extra- Carry on down the coast
ordinary range of birds and wild- to Parque Punta Sur.
From the parking lot, walk
life, and the one-day tours run by
down to Punta Celarain
local organizations give a glimpse lighthouse and the
of the intricate, constantly strange little Mayan
surprising interplay of nature in temple called the Caracol,
this rare environment. The few and follow the nature trail
to try and see some
inhabited spots along the coast
crocodiles and flamingos.
are wonderful for fishing, and
have a feel of tranquil isolation You can snorkel at Punta
(see also pp20–21). d Map F6 Sur, but you’re likely to
see more underwater life
if you carry on to Laguna
Chankanaab (p87). If all
you want is a placid beach,
call in at Playa San Fran-
cisco (p91). Roll back into
town, and don’t miss the
sunset from the waterfront
Malecón. Take another look
at the shops, and buy any-
thing you may have spotted
on your morning walk.
Sian Ka’an reserve
TT-CY_086-089-Cozumel1.indd 89
3/12/06 12:06:46 AM
1:44:41 PM
Left Aktun-Chen Right Punta Laguna
Best of the Rest

! Paamul
The favorite destination for
center are a memorable experi-
ence (see p51). d Map P6
RV travelers, who take advantage
of generous long-term rates to
settle in for the whole winter. ^ Gran Cenote
The Cobá road north from
The campsite also has cabañas Tulum is one of the best places
(see p126), a beach bar (p91), to find swimmable cenotes, and
and a dive shop. d Map Q5 this is one of the most beautiful,
a crystal-clear pool that’s a must
@ Aktun-Chen Cave
This giant cave and cenote
for swimmers and snorkelers
(see p52). d Map N6
system, an awesome series of
chambers and stalagmite towers,
is in thick jungle in a nature park; & Aktun-Ha Cenote
Another fine swimming-hole
it was only recently discovered. cenote amid rocks and woods
(see p51). d Map P5 toward Cobá. Snorkelers can
explore the huge main cavern;
# Xel-Ha Ruins
Across the Highway from the
divers (with guides) can go
further. d Map N6
popular snorkel park, this ruined
Mayan city is one of the oldest
in the region. On some buildings * Punta Laguna
In a tiny village by a forest
there are murals dating back to lake north of Cobá, this nature
about AD 200. d Map P6 • 8am–6pm reserve is one of the best places
daily (summer 9am–7pm) • Adm to see spider monkeys in the
Yucatán. Villagers act as guides
$ Tankah
Off the beaten track, Tankah
(see p48). d Map N4
is a placid, narrow beach with a

fine reef, a restaurant, and a small ( Muyil Ruins
Location is the attraction of
cluster of villas and hotels. Just this old, atmospheric Mayan city:
behind the beach by the Casa in hot, steamy jungle between the
Cenote restaurant, there’s a broad, Highway and Lake Chunyaxché,
reed-lined cenote, so it’s a toss-up in the Sian Ka’an reserve. d Map
between swimming in the surf or G4 • 8am–5pm daily • Adm
the freshwater pool. d Map P6
% Dos Ojos Cenote and ) Road from Boca Paila to

Punta Allen
Hidden Worlds One for the adventurous – one of
Dos Ojos is very possibly the the bumpiest, most rutted, over-
world’s longest underwater cave grown and deserted roads in the
system. The snorkeling or diving Yucatán – with fabulous vistas of
tours offered by the Hidden Worlds sea, sky, and forest. d Map G4–5
90
TT-CY_090-091-Cozumel3.indd 90 12/1/06 1:15:22

17/7/08 3:16:04 AM
PM
Left Playa Sol Center North Beach,Tulum Right South Beach,Tulum
Beaches
! Playa San Francisco and
Playa Sol, Cozumel
at the north end is the lovely Yal-
Ku lagoon (see p59). d Map P5
Two among the many great
beaches on Cozumel’s southwest
coast: San Francisco and others ^ Akumal Village
The beach in the center of
near it are great for all-round Akumal is a little busier, and behind
relaxation; Playa Sol is best if it there’s a bigger choice of low-
you want a beach with loads key bars and shops. d Map P5
going on. d Map R6
Chen Río, Cozumel

@ The best beach on Cozumel’s & Punta Solimán
Shaded by lolling palms, this
near-empty beach feels far from
rugged eastern shore, with a anywhere, even though it’s only
sheltered cove for lazy swimming, a dirt-track away from the High-
while further along the sands you way. A few boats on the sand
could even surf. There’s also a and the bar (see p94) are the
beach restaurant worth a special main signs of habitation. d Map P6
visit (see p70). d Map R5
Paamul
£ A curving white sand bay with * North Beach, Tulum
The beaches at the north
end of Tulum are the favorites for
a likable beach bar and cabañas anyone who wants to hang out
(see p126). With over 2 km (1 mile) and get to know people in the
of beach, the camp site doesn’t bargain-basement cabañas. They
obstruct the view, and the sands also have the best view of the
are never crowded. d Map Q5 ruins (see p18). d Map P6
$ Xpu-Ha
Seven bays with some of the ( South Beach, Tulum
The place for people who
coolest, whitest sand, most grace- want to find some seclusion in
ful palms, and most colorful coral Tulum, with longer, broader,
on the Riviera. Several are occu- whiter beaches, acres of space,
pied by resorts, but X-4 and X-7, and quite luxurious comforts in
signposted on the Highway, are some cabañas. d Map P6
open to anyone. d Map P5
Media Luna Bay, Akumal

% As the name suggests, “Half ) Punta Xamach & Conoco
Getting to these remote,
deserted beaches involves
Moon Bay” is an exquisite, near- negotiating the wild, rutted road
perfect crescent of brilliant white between Boca Paila and Punta
sand and calm sea. The atmo- Allen (see p90). So, whether this
sphere is just as tranquil: around appeals or not may depend on
it there are condos and villas, and your vehicle. d Map G5
91

3:16:05 PM
Left Punta Langosta Center Los Cinco Soles Right Puerto Aventuras
Places to Shop
! Punta Langosta, Cozumel
The most gleaming addition
birds and animals, and more. d Av
Rafael Melgar 27, by Calle 8 • Map R5
to Cozumel shopping, the leisure
mall in the cruise terminal has
major international fashion ^ Unicornio, Cozumel
A big, varied crafts dealer,
names – Versace, Tommy Hilfiger with especially good ceramics
– plus upscale handicrafts and and painted wood. There’s junk
glittering gem stores. d Map R5 as well as quality pieces, but it’s
a great place to browse. d Av 5
@ Inspiración
Cozumel
Gallery, Sur, near Calle 1 Sur • Map R5
This small gallery displays a fine

selection of handicrafts as well as & Shalom, Tulum
Get dressed for a Tulum-
local photography, paintings and style beach party at this cool
jewelry. A great place to pick up shop that features hippie-style
one-of-a-kind gifts. d Av Rafael clothing as well as sleeker items
Melgar, between Av Juárez and Calle 2 that you could wear when out
Norte • Map R5 clubbing. d Av Tulum, between Calle
Orion and Calle Centauro • Map N6
Rachat & Romero, Cozumel
# A more cluttered Malecón
* Pro Dive, Cozumel
jewelry store that’s also a bit First port of call for self-
less traditional in its styles and sufficient divers and sea-explorers
designs. Among its displays are on Cozumel, with every possible
beautiful pieces in Mexican jade, kind of diving and snorkeling
jet, and amber. d Av 5 Sur, between equipment. d Av Adolfo Rosado Salas
Av Salas and Calle 1 • Map R5 198, corner of Av 5 • Map R5
$ Miró T-Shirts, Cozumel

Miró company’s T-shirts stand ( Puerto Aventuras
A small, stylish group of
out with their distinctive, stylish, shops. Among cigars and sophis-
bright and very Mexican designs, ticated jewelry, you’ll also find
which justify the slightly higher Mexican designer clothing at Arte
prices. Their Cozumel store is next Maya and fine handicrafts at El
to Las Palmeras (see p94). d Av Guerrero. d Map Q5
Rafael Melgar–Plaza Cozumel • Map R5
% Los Cinco Soles, Cozumel ) Mixik Artesanías, Tulum

Tulum is not a shopping
The place to do all your mecca, but this little store has a
souvenir shopping in one go – a high-quality collection of colorful
giant Malecón handicrafts store. craftwork from every part of
Tablecloths, clothes, jewelry, Mexico. d Av Tulum, opposite the bus
glassware, metal or papier-mâché terminal • Map P6
92

18/7/08 3:12:09 PM
AM
Left Carlos‘n’Charlie’s Right Jane’s Sports and Sorts
Nightspots
! Carlos ‘n’ Charlie’s, Cozumel
Cozumel’s biggest bar- ^ ElIn the
Manatí, Cozumel
back garden of a
restaurant-music venue is the wooden Caribbean-style house,
place where you’re assured of this restaurant turns into a dance
finding a (usually pretty raucous) club on weekends, when local
crowd every night, partying in the rock, salsa and reggae bands get
open air to classic rock circa 1970 the enthusiastic crowd dancing.
to 2000 (see p61). d Punta Langosta d Av 10 Norte at Calle 8 • Map R5
• Map R5 • daily from 3pm • 9.30pm–12.30am daily
@ Neptuno, Cozumel
Top of the line in Cozumel & Jane’s Sports and Sorts,
Puerto Aventuras
dance clubs – the only one that’s Big and comfortable bar with a
really hi-tech. The music menu is convivial, boisterous feel where
a mix of Latin and international you can keep up with U.S. sports
dance and there’s a dazzling laser and party on into the night. d On
and light show. d Av Rafael Melgar, the Marina • Map Q5 • daily from 3pm
by Calle 11 • Map R5 • daily from 10pm
# Plaza del Sol, Cozumel * Capricho,

Aventuras
Puerto
Cozumel doesn’t have a Puerto Aventuras’ own disco-bar

particularly wild nightlife. is unpredictable – sometimes
Instead, San Miguel’s central quiet, sometimes buzzing. The
plaza is the place to be – music is eclectic. d On the Marina
especially on Sundays, when • Map Q5 • Thu–Sun from 10pm • Adm
there’s usually live music. d Av
Melgar at Av Juárez • Map R5
( Acabar, Tulum
A casual split-level space,
$ LaLa Zebra’s
Zebra, Tulum
Sunday night
Acabar is the main late-night
hangout in the town of Tulum. It
salsa party draws people from features live reggae bands, cheap
up and down the beach as well drinks and billiards and foosball
as from town. Come early for tables. d Av Tulum between Calle Orion
free dance classes. d Beach road, and Calle Beta • Map P6
km 4.6 • Map G4
% Hard Rock Café, Cozumel ) Mezzanine, Tulum

This stylish restaurant-bar
The Mayan-style architecture combines luxurious indulgence
of the building makes this a with eco-friendly policies. Enjoy
s tunning location for the rock a cocktail while chilling to the
memorabilia chain. Occasional sounds of guest DJs. d Carretera
live music. d Av Rafeal E Melgar 2A • Boca Paila km 1.5 • Map P6 • daily from
Map R5 • daily from 10pm • Adm 11am • No credit cards • Adm
Recommend your favorite bar on traveldk.com 93

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Left Las Palmeras Center Piña Colada Right El Paraíso

! Hard Rock, Cozumel
Cozumel’s Hard Rock offers
snacks too. d Av Rafael Melgar, by
Calle 4 • Map R5 • 9am–5pm daily • $
no changes from the international
formula but draws in the crowds
with its loud, friendly atmosphere. ^ Mezcalito’s, Cozumel
An old favorite, ultra-laid-back
Special pluses are good air-con beach restaurant in a wonderful
and better live bands than most location where the cross-island
island bars. d Av Rafael Melgar 2A, road meets the east coast, with
by Av Juárez • Map R5 • $$ a soundtrack of crashing surf.
d Punta Santa Cecilia • Map R5 • $
Las Palmeras, Cozumel
@ A big, friendly, Caribbean-hut
& Cabañas Paamul
of a bar, opposite the ferry landing Deep shade and an ideal
on San Miguel’s main plaza. As view over the beach make the
well as being great for drinks and bar in the Paamul cabañas and
people-watching, it does highly camping site (see p126) a great
enjoyable breakfasts. d Av Rafael place to get refreshed after time
Melgar–Plaza Cozumel • Map R5 • $$ in the sun. Snacks are also
available. d Map Q5 • $
£ Kelley’s, Cozumel
Popular with divemasters
* Piña Colada, Puerto
and tour guides, this outdoor Aventuras
bar can get rowdy when an Puerto Aventuras’ favorite beach
American football game is on. bar, with a big palapa roof.
It’s the ideal spot for a cold beer Elaborate tropical cocktails are
and a hamburger. d Av 10, between the specialty. d Map Q5 • $$
Av Salas and Calle 1 • Map R5 • $
$ Havana Blue, Cozumel ( Oscar y Lalo, Punta

Solimán
One of the few bars with a Punta Solimán has a desert-
sea view in San Miguel, Havana island feel, and so does its only
Blue also looks great on the bar. Hosts Oscar and Lalo, who
inside, with sleek blue booths for also run the camping site and rent
lounging with drinks while the kayaks, are friendly and cook
sun goes down. d Forum Shops, great fresh seafood. d Map P6 • $
Av Melgar at Calle 10 • Map R5 • $$
% Café del Museo, Cozumel ) ElManyParaíso, Tulum

of the cabaña-clusters
This very relaxing, pretty along Tulum beach have bars, but
café on the roof of Cozumel’s Paraíso, near the ruins, has the
museum (see p10) has a great best view, with a big terrace for
view of the waterfront and good catching the breeze. d Beach road
coffee. Tasty breakfasts and km 5.5 • Map P6 • $$
94
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Price Categories
equivalent meal), taxes, $$$$ $20–$35

Left Guido’s Right Rock’n Java
Places to Eat
! Guido’s, Cozumel
Guido’s is best known for its ^ Richard’s Steaks and
Pizza, Puerto Aventuras
rich lasagne, but its other Italian This restaurant is located in a
food, including wood-oven cabaña with a sea view. The
pizzas, is great too. Enjoy it all menu offers a variety of typical
outside in the garden. d Av Melgar American and Mexican dishes.
No.23, between Calle 6 and Calle 8 d Centro Comercial Marina • Map Q5
• Map R5 • (987) 872 0946 • $$$$ • (984) 873 5086 • $$$$
@ Rock’n Java, Cozumel

The big fresh salads and & Qué Onda, Akumal
Run by a charming
sandwiches are great at this Mexican–Italian couple, this
American-run café on the water. relaxing garden restaurant has a
Save some room for a huge slice varied and international menu,
of apple pie or one of the other with great light lunches. d Near
gooey desserts. d Av Rafael Melgar north end of Media Luna Bay road
No.602, between Calle 7 and Av Quintana • Map P5 • (984) 875 9101 • $$$
Roo • Map R5 • (987) 872 4405 • $$$
£ Casa Denis, Cozumel * Cetli, Tulum

A Mexico City-trained chef-
One of the island’s oldest owner turns out light, refined
restaurants in a wooden house versions of Mexican classics like
just off the square, Casa Denis chiles en nogada (stuffed chilies
serves classic Yucatecan dishes with walnut sauce) at this casual
(see pp68–9) at low prices. eatery. d Calle Polar at Calle Orion
d Calle 1 Sur, by Av 5 • Map R5 • from • Map P6 • (984) 108 0681 • $$$
7am daily • No credit cards • $$$
$ La Cocay, Cozumel ( Don Cafeto, Tulum

One of Tulum’s longest-
This mellow restaurant in a established restaurants, with a
Caribbean-style wooden hut big outdoor terrace, and one of
offers a range of Mediterranean- the best places for traditional
inspired dishes, including pasta, Mexican dishes. d Av Tulum, three
light fish specialties, and blocks north of baseball field • Map P6
excellent salads. d Calle 8, between • (984) 871 2207 • $$$
Av 10 and Av 15 • Map R5 • $$$$
% Chen Río, Cozumel ) Urge Taquitos, Tulum

Beer-batter shrimp and fish
The best restaurant on tacos are flawlessly cooked at
Cozumel’s east coast, and a won- this roadside stop. Pile them
derful place to eat on the beach high with toppings from the
(see p70). d Chen Río Beach • Map salsa and condiment bars.
R5 • No credit cards • $$$ d Hwy-307 north of town • Map P6 • $$
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants serve vegetarian 95

meals; phone numbers included only where appropriate
17/7/08 12:08:33
11:04:29 AM
Around the Yucatán – The Central Heartland
Left Ek-Balam Right Flamingos, Río Lagartos
Central Heartland
A n unmistakable Yucatecan identitY and sense of their own culture

distinguishes towns like Valladolid or Tizimín, with Spanish colonial
churches and squares, Mayan women selling colorful fruit and flowers, and a
gently paced street life. The ancestors of the modern Maya built some of their
greatest creations here, at Ek-Balam and the city of
Chichén Itzá. Giant underground caverns and
magical cenote pools lie beneath the landscape.
Sights in Central Yucatan

1 Valladolid 6 Chichén Itzá
2 San Bernardino Sisal, 7 Río Lagartos
Valladolid
8 San Felipe
3 Cenote Dzitnup
9 Izamal
4 Ek-Balam
0 Telchac and Uaymitún
5 Balankanché Caves
Cenote Dzitnup
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96
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! Valladolid
The Spanish
capital of eastern
Yucatán, founded in
1545, has at its heart

one of the most
charming of the
region’s colonial
plazas – wonderful
for people-watching –
overlooked by the
tall white cathedral.
Valladolid is cele-
brated for embroidery,
and the square is a Valladolid
good place to buy the exuberantly overgrown garden.
white, flower-patterned huípil Church and cloister have a
dresses and tablecloths. Around delightful tranquility, and inside
the town there are many more there are rare 18th-century
fine old Spanish churches and Baroque altars and altarpieces
houses, and just four blocks (see also p42). d Map E3 • Calle
from the plaza you can look 41–A, Valladolid • 8am–noon, 5–7pm
down into the dramatic pit of Mon, Wed–Sun • Adm occasionally
Cenote Zací, once Valladolid’s
water source. d Map E3
£ Cenote Dzitnup
This is the most spectacular
@ San Bernardino Sisal,

Valladolid
of the easily accessible, swim-
mable cenotes, and one of the
This massive, fortress-like church great sights of the Yucatán.
and cloister was begun in 1552, Entering through a cramped
and is the oldest permanent tunnel, you emerge into a vast,
church in the Yucatán. Like cathedral-like cavern, with
others built around that time, it towers of strangely shaped rock
was designed by the Franciscan around an exquisite turquoise
order’s own architect, Friar Juan pool. In the middle, a shaft of
de Mérida. It looks very sunlight falls dead straight onto
medieval, with an unusual, the water from a hole in the roof.
beautifully shady gallery of Everyone automatically swims
graceful arches along the façade through it, to be touched by this
and a cloister of giant, squat magical light (see also
stone columns around an p52). d Dzitnup
village • Map E3
• 8am–5pm daily
• Adm
San Bernardino Sisal, Valladolid
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% Balankanché
Caves
This great labyrinthine
complex of caves
extends several miles
under the Yucatán

forest. Caves were
sacred for the ancient
Maya and, in one
spectacular chamber,
the sanctuary, remains
Ek-Balam were found of over 100
ritual incense burners.
The Salt of Chichén The compulsory tour ends in a
Salt was one of the greatest magical chamber with a perfectly
sources of wealth in ancient still pool, in which the cave
America. In the lagoons near Río bottom seen through the water
Lagartos there are huge salt flats, is a mirror image of the roof.
still exploited today. Around AD d Map E3 • 9am–4pm daily • Adm
800, Chichén Itzá won control of
them and built its own port at El
Cerritos, east of Río Lagartos, to
trade in salt. The wealth this gave
^ Chichén Itzá
The most famous and awe-
Chichén was a major reason why inspiring of all the great ancient
it could dominate the Yucatán. Mayan cities, and the one with
the most spine-tingling images
of war and sacrifice. The great
$ Ek-Balam
In 1998 excavations revealed
pyramid of El Castillo, the giant
Ball Court, the Sacred Cenote,
some of the finest examples of and the Temple of the Warriors
Mayan sculpture at these ruins, are all must-sees (see pp22–5).
on the giant temple-mound known
as the Acropolis. Most spectacu-
lar is El Trono (The Throne), a & Río Lagartos
This quiet village on the
temple entrance believed to be remote north coast is at the head
the tomb of Ukit-Kan-Lek-Tok, a of over 20 km (12 miles) of man-
ruler around AD 800. Nearby is grove lagoon and mud flats, with
an intricate mass of finely carved the Yucatán’s largest colonies of
figures. The rest of the Acropolis flamingos and a dazzling variety
is a multi-level palace (see also of other birds. Local boatmen
p38). d Map F2 • www.inah.gob.mx provide good-value tours (see
• 8am–5pm daily • Adm (free Sun) also pp49 & 55). d Map F1
Chichén Itzá
98
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A Two-Day Tour
Day One
Stay the night in Valladolid
or, better, the little town of

Pisté just outside Chichén
Itzá, and get to the ruins
as early as possible. Once
San Felipe inside, tackle the climb up
the Castillo for an over-
* San Felipe
West of Río Lagartos, this
view of the ancient city in
all its majesty. Spend at
least three hours around
village is smaller and has a Chichén, then regain your
superb, usually near-empty beach strength with lunch at the
on the sandbar across the charming Las Mestizas in
lagoon, facing the opal waters of Pisté (see p103).
the Gulf of Mexico. Village
In the afternoon, make a
boatmen will ferry you to and choice: if you’re interested
from the beach, and also offer in the ancient Maya, go up
flamingo tours. From the village to Ek-Balam, or head into
there are fabulous sunsets (see Valladolid for a wander
also pp49 & 55). d Map E1 around its plaza, San
Bernardino monastery, and
the dramatic town cenote.
( Izamal
The most unaltered Spanish
Before it’s too late in the
day, head north to Río
colonial city in the Yucatán, known Lagartos (104 km/65 miles)
as the ciudad dorada or “Golden to book a flamingo tour for
the next morning. Stay at
City” because of the color of its the Hotel San Felipe in
buildings, is centered on the huge San Felipe (see p131).
monastery of San Antonio, begun
in 1549 as the headquarters of Day Two
the Franciscan friars in Yucatán The flamingos are best
and the shrine of Our Lady of seen early, so you’ll need
to be off around 7am. A 2-
Izamal, the region’s patron. A
or 4-hour tour takes you
short walk away are the remains into an exuberant, rare
of three pyramids, traces of a natural world, through
much older Mayan city (see also broad lagoons and narrow
pp40 & 42). d Map D2 creeks. Afterward, for
lunch, have a ceviche at
Isla Contoy on the water-
) Telchac and Uaymitún
Far west of San Felipe, a
front, or head down to
Tizimín for steaks at the
road joins the coast to run along Tres Reyes (see p103) on
it through quiet fishing villages. its broad Colonial square.
Seaward, there are endless,
From Tizimín, turn west-
often empty, Gulf Coast beaches, ward through miles and
while on the landward side is a miles of cattle ranches to
lagoon full of birds. Telchac is a reach Izamal. Here you
fishing harbor with fine beaches can look out on the town
from the monastery’s
and a few low-key restaurants
arcaded courtyard. The
and cheap hotels. At Uaymitún town’s golden colors are
there is a free observation tower especially lovely in the
for bird-watching in the lagoon warm, early evening light.
(see also p49). d Map C/D2
99
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Around the Yucatán – Central Heartland
Left Ikkil Cenote Center Tizimín Right Aké
Best of the Rest

! Ikkil Cenote
A huge, circular pit filled with ^ ElAt Cuyo
the end of a lonely road
a beautiful underground pool – through savanna grass, forest, and
now the center of a private nature sand flats, this tiny fishing village
park. You can swim in the cenote is a place to escape the crowds
pool and dine in the restaurant and sample miles of Gulf coast
up above it. d Highway 180, 3 km beaches (see p55). d Map F1
(2 miles) E of Chichén Itzá • Map E3
& Bocas de Dzilam
This vast area of uninhabited
@ Tihosuco
This remote village 50 km
mangroves west of San Felipe is
remote and wild. There are no
(30 miles) south of Valladolid was regular tours, but boatmen in
where the great Mayan revolt of San Felipe or Dzilam may offer a
the Caste War began(see p37); it trip. d Map D1
still bears the battle scars. A small
museum tells the whole story.
d Map E4 • Museum: 10am–5pm * ElAlongside
Bajo and Santa Clara
the north coast
Tue–Sun • Adm road is a long, narrow sand-spit
island, El Bajo, with deserted,
£ Yaxcabá
An ultra-sleepy little town in
coconut-palm shaded beaches. In
the tiny village of Santa Clara you
the woods that surprises with a can find boatmen offering occa-
very imposing 18th-century church, sional trips to the island. d Map D1
with a unique three-tower façade
and a beautifully carved wooden
altarpiece. d Map D3 ( Aké
This ruined city west of Izamal
is a mystery, as its drum-shaped
$ Calotmul
Between Valladolid and
columns and ramp-like stairways
are unlike other Mayan buildings.
Tizimín, this is another hot coun- The local church was built on an
try town that has a fine church ancient pyramid (see p39). d Map
(1749) with a magnificently ornate C2 • www.mayayucatan.com.mx • 8am–
Baroque altarpiece. d Map F2 5pm daily • Adm
% Tizimín
The hub of Yucatán’s “cattle ) Xcambó
The atmospheric ruins of a
country” is a market town where coastal Mayan town, probably an
tourism usually goes unnoticed. outlying Dzibilchaltún settlement.
At its center are two spacious There are great sea views from
squares, divided by the massive the top of its main pyramid. d
walls of two Spanish monasteries Map C2 • www.mayayucatan.com.mx
(see p40). d Map F2 • 8am–5pm daily • Adm
100
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Left Valladolid’s Main Plaza Right Aguilar Bike Hire
Shops, Markets, and Tours

! Valladolid’s Main Plaza
Mayan women from the ^ Market, Tizimín
Not a place to find souvenirs
surrounding villages display their but a real, bustling country town
beautifully bright huípiles (tradi- market, with spectacular fruit and
tional dresses) and other embroi- produce and household goods.
dery on the railings of the d Map F2 • daily 8am–5pm
Parque Principal. d Map E3
@ Valladolid Craft Market & Flamingo Tours,

Río Lagartos
and Bazaar The best local boatmen’s co-
Valladolid’s semi-official handi- operative has a kiosk on the
crafts market has some very fine waterfront, just left of where the
embroidery, as well as more Tizimín road runs out. They work
production-line goods. The nearby with the nature reserve and have
bazaar is a quirky collection of good boats and experienced
shops around a food court (see guides (see p49). d Map F1
p103). d Mercado de Artesanías Calle • (986) 862 0158
39, corner of Calle 44 • Map E3
£ Yalat, Valladolid * San Felipe Tours

The boatmen’s cooperative
On Valladolid’s central plaza, here is a bit less organized but
Yalat offers embroidered clothes, also has a waterfront hut, in San
jewelry, Mexican chocolate, and Felipe village. Rates are similar
bath scrubs made from sisal fibre. to those in Río Lagartos, but boat-
d Cnr of Calle 39 and Calle 40 • Map E3 men here will be more ready to
take you to the Bocas de Dzilam
$ Aguilar Bike Hire, Valladolid

From his ramshackle shop,
(opposite) and Río Lagartos
lagoon (see p49).
former baseball player Antonio
“Negro” Aguilar provides infor-
mation, sells sports goods, and ( Hecho a Mano, Izamal
A pretty little shop with a
rents out cheap rooms and bikes more carefully selected display
at low rates. d Calle 44, between of handmade folk art than the
Calle 39 and Calle 41 • Map E3 markets, and striking photographs
of Yucatecan scenes. d Calle 31,
% Handicrafts
Chichén Itzá
Market, No.308, by the Town Hall • Map D2
Around the Chichén visitor center

there is almost a mall of handi- ) Market, Izamal
Izamal’s market, just below
crafts stalls, some run by Maya the monastery, is a lively mix of
selling their own embroidery, souvenirs, handicrafts, and busy
hammocks, and wood carvings. little cafés. d Calle 31/Calle 32 d Map
d Map E3 D2 • daily 8am–5pm
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Left La Chispa Right Hotel María de la Luz

! LaA surprisingly
Chispa, Valladolid
stylish, youth- ^ Lonchería Fabiola, Pisté
The cheapest refreshment
oriented bar-restaurant with stops in Pisté are the budget
smartly designed metallic fittings loncherías (basic restaurants),
around the patio of an old such as this one on the village
colonial house. d Calle 41, between plaza, with outside tables for
Calle 42 and Calle 44 • Map E3 • $$ watching village life. d Map E3 • $
@ LaValladolid
de Michoacán,
& Bar La Conchita, El Cuyo
A rumbustious village bar
Near the Chispa, this simple com- with a salsa soundtrack. The men
bination café, bakery, and ice-cream of El Cuyo go out to fish before
stand is a backpackers’ favorite, dawn, and when they come back
and offers fresh juices and many spend much of the day by
bargain snacks. d Calle 41, between the beach at La Conchita, which
Calle 42 and Calle 44 • Map E3 • $ serves up wonderful grilled fish.
d Map F1 • To about 7:30pm daily • $
Sunday Concerts,Valladolid
£ Like many Yucatán towns,
* LaFriendly
Torreja, Río Lagartos
Valladolid puts on entertainment bar-restaurant with
for free – the town band gives a cool beers, great ceviches (raw
concert every Sunday night in fish salad, marinated in lime) and
the square, with a musical menu other Yucatecan snacks, and a
that runs from rumbas and fine view of the placid lagoon
boleros to classic jazz. d Parque waters. d Opposite the Flamingo Tours
Principal • Map E3 • From 7:30pm Sun kiosk • Map F1 • $
$ Hotel María de la Luz,

Valladolid ( Market Bars, Izamal
Several cafés and loncherías
This hotel has a big, well-shaded here share an outside terrace, a
terrace on the Parque Principal, fine vantage point on the
with very comfortable seats – monastery and town life. Some
ideal for lazy lounging while keep- serve beer, some only soft drinks
ing an eye on all the movement in to go with their snacks. d Calle 31,
the square. d Calle 42 • Map E3 • $$ by Calle 32 • Map D2 • $
% Yepez II, Valladolid

This open-air restaurant and ) Moctezuma (“Dos
Barriles”), Chicxulub Puerto
bar is lively on weekend after- This restaurant-bar is popular in
noons, serving tasty tacos and the late afternoon with locals,
other snacks. Live bands start who come for fresh ceviche,
after 9:30pm. d Calle 41, between washed down with beer. d One
Calle 38 and Calle 40 • Map E3 • $$ block east of the plaza • Map C2 • $$
102 For the Top Ten Yucatecan dishes and snacks see pp68–9
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Price Categories
beer of soda (or $$$ $10–$20

Left El Mesón del Marqués Right El Mexicano
Places to Eat
! ElValladolid
Mesón del Marqués, most charming service. It dishes
up a delicious sopa de lima (see
Valladolid’s foremost hotel also p68). d Map E3 • No credit cards • $$
has its most distinguished res-
taurant, with tables around a
plant-filled patio. Its versions of ^ Tres Reyes, Tizimín
Tizimín is the Yucatán’s cattle
local specialties like pollo oriental capital, and so its best restau-
de Valladolid (see p68) are rant’s specialty is steak, often
definitive. d Calle 39, on Parque cooked in thin strips (arracheras).
Principal • Map E3 • (985) 856 3042 • $$ d Calle 52, corner of Calle 53 • Map F2
• (986) 863 2106 • No credit cards • $$$
Cocinas Económicas,
@ Valladolid
& Restaurante Isla Contoy,
Around the bazaar on the square Río Lagartos
(see p101) there’s a line of self- Under a drooping palm roof on a
service food counters. Noisy, with jetty, this place has a water-front
lots of atmosphere, this is a great feel and great seafood cocktails
place for breakfast, and for local full of lime and coriander. d Map F1
snacks. d Calle 39, on Parque Principal • (986) 862 0000 • No credit cards • $
• Map E3 • No credit cards • $–$$
£ El Mexicano, Valladolid * Restaurante

San Felipe
Vaselina,
The restaurant in the Quinta A big, unfussy, barn-like place on

Regia hotel (see p131) is cool the seafront with plain tables
and pretty. Its menu makes use where you can try wonderfully
of fresh local ingredients, including fresh, fat shrimp, octopus, and
produce from the hotel garden. conch. d Map E1 • No credit cards • $$
d Calle 40, No.160A, between Calle 27
and Calle 29 • (985) 856 3472 • $$
( Kinich, Izamal
In a lush garden, this
$ Chaya’s
Ek-Balam
Natural Café, restaurant (open for lunch only)
has a very high reputation for
The restaurant at Genesis Retreat classic Yucatecan food, such as
(see p126) is open to non-guests in poc-chuc (see p70). d Calle 27,
the afternoon, but the crepes and No.299, between Calle 28 and Calle 30
chocolate-chili cookies make it • Map D2 • (988) 954 0489 • $$$
worth a visit. d Off the northeast
corner of the town plaza • Map F2 • $$$
) Restaurante El Toro, Izamal
On a square near the
% Las Mestizas, Pisté

Las Mestizas is the prettiest
monastery is this friendly little
restaurant, with tasty Yucatecan
of the restaurants along the dishes and tacos. d Plazuela 2
main road in Pisté, with the de Abril • Map D2 • No credit cards • $

meals; phone numbers are listed only where appropriate
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Around the Yucatán – The West
Left Cafés, Mérida Right Mayapán
The West
N owhere is the flavor of the Yucatán more intense than in the west,
around its historic capital, Mérida. In these parts, there is an extraordinary
density of Mayan relics, and although they may not match the
awesome power of Chichén Itzá, sites such as Uxmal show
the architecture of the Maya at its most elegant. Beyond the
main sights are stretches of wilderness, hidden lagoons, and
small towns dripping with bougainvillea and hibiscus.
Left Chelem Right Warrior statue,Ticul
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104 Chelem, Ticul, and Mayapán are covered on p108
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! Mérida
Perhaps the most seductive
of all the colonial cities in Mexico.
Elegant architecture, shady patios,
great markets, a distinct friend-

liness, the soft music of boleros
and the jarana heard in free con-
certs in 16th-century squares,
and fiestas enjoyed by all ages
every Sunday – the town’s appeal Dzibilchaltún
is plentiful and varied (see pp26–7).
summer equinoxes to run straight
Celestún
@ Just north of this fishing
along a white sacbé (rough cast
road) to the central plaza, is the
village is a silent, wild, watery most celebrated feature of this
expanse of mangrove lagoon that ruined Mayan city just north of
provides a breeding ground for Mérida. It was one of the longest-
great flocks of pink flamingos lived Mayan cities, occupied
and ibises, egrets, and for over 2,000 years.
blue herons. Boat There are additional
tours from the village temples at the site, as
are very popular (the well as a grand Palacio
lagoon can get rather and a Spanish mission-
crowded at times). But ary chapel. The huge,
if you stay over in mysterious pool –
Celestún after the tours Cenote Xlacah – which
have gone back to Mérida, provided the ancient
you will find a city with water, now
[XOXE
WR
beautifully tranquil offers an idyllic place in

village, with a soft Colonial architecture, Mérida which to cool off.
white beach, laid-back d Map C2 • Cenote Xlacah:
restaurants and hotels, and 8am–5pm daily • Adm Mon–Fri
1'$
$71 fabulous sunsets. d Map A2 • Tours
FDQFHK
from Celestún Embarcadero: 6am–5pm
daily • Adm $ Progreso
Mérida’s port and favorite
beach town is a place to get
. Dzibilchaltún
OFHK £ The Temple of the Seven
close to ordinary Yucatecan life.
The harbor is stuck at the end of
0$<$31 Dolls, through which the sun a long (6-km/4-mile) pier, and so
OXP
strikes at dawn on spring and the shallow waters around the
beach remain bliss-
fully tranquil. Until the
ROW¼Q
DYHV
weekend, that is, when
Meridanos spill out
/DEQ£
onto the sand and into
the warm blue waters.
There are excellent
fish restaurants along
the seafront, too, with
big, convivial outside
terraces for socializing
Progreso’s beach and long stone pier (see also p45).

17/7/08 12:12:03
02:11:36 AM
PM
% Uxmal
With the elegant
lines of the Nunnery
Quadrangle and tower-
ing mass of the Pyra-
mid of the Magician,

Uxmal is not only one
of the most beautiful
of ancient Mayan Uxmal
cities but also one of est sense of the wealth of its
the greatest sights in the ancient inhabitants. Its hub is the
Americas (see pp28–9). magnificent Palacio, an opulent
complex sweeping up through
^ Kabah
This site was the second
three levels and over 90 chambers,
with an architectural refinement
most important of the Puuc Cities that recalls the buildings of
(see p31) after Uxmal, and an Ancient Greece. It housed over
imposing arch on its west 350 people, from lords
side marks the start of to servants, and had
the sacbé road (see its own exclusive
p88) that linked it to water supply.
its larger ally. Its d Map C4 • 8am–5pm daily
Codz Poop or “Palace • Adm
of Masks” is the
Labná
most extravagant
example of Mayan * The Arch of Labná
carving: the extraor- Snake head, Labná (wonderfully drawn by
dinary façade is covered Frederick Catherwood,
with 250 faces of the long-nosed see box) exemplifies the sophis-
rain-god Chac. The Palacio and tication of Puuc architecture.
Temple of the Columns are other Nearby, the town’s Palacio is only
classics of refined Puuc architec- slightly smaller than Sayil’s, and
ture. d Map C4 • 8am–5pm daily was divided into seven patios –
the part to the left was the home
Sayil
& Of all the Puuc Cities, Sayil
of the lords of Labná, the patios
to the right (east) were for
is the one that gives the strong- servants. The setting is
especially lovely, in tranquil
woods full of birds. d Map C4
( Loltún Caves
This vast cave complex is
both a stunning natural phenom-
enon and ancient Mayan site. It
has been occupied by humans
longer than anywhere else in the
Yucatán, from remote prehistory
right up until the 19th century.
The ancient Maya lived here,
mined the caves, and used them
Kabah for rituals. Guided tours take you
106 For more about the Mayan ruins see pp38–9
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A Day in the Puuc Hills
Morning
Leave Mérida early in a rent-
al car. Beyond the suburb of

Umán, where you turn
onto Highway 261, traffic
thins out, and you’ll have an
easy drive through woods
and a few placid villages.
Stop at Yaxcopoíl (see

p108) for a quick tour of
the hacienda, a remarkable
Campeche vision of early 20th-
century aristocratic life in
through 2 km (1.5 miles) of caves, the Yucatán. Beyond Muna
but the network extends much the road enters the Puuc
Hills, before dropping
further. The rock formations are down again to Uxmal.
awe-inspiring, and a special Devote at least two hours
feature of Loltún is its strange to this site, keeping an eye
changes of temperature, from out for iguanas as well as
fierce heat to chilly breezes (see the architecture.
also p53). d Map C4 • Tours 8–11am Recoup your energies by
and 2–4pm Mon–Sat, 8–11am Sun • Adm heading back up the road a
little to the Restaurante
) Campeche
A Spanish colonial walled
Hal-Tun (see p111), for
sopa de lima on the
roadside terrace.
city that retains a charming, old-
world feel. The 17th-century ram- Afternoon
parts and bastions were built to Head straight for Kabah to
defend it against pirates. The marvel at the monsters of
streets within are lined with the Codz Poop.
delicately colored old houses
Further south, the “Puuc
featuring patios and iron-grilled Route” turns off the main
windows. A museum, housed in Highway 261 onto a lovely
an old Spanish fort, contains jade woodland road, with only a
funeral masks and other fine relics few other tourists, combis,
from the recently excavated site at tricycle carts, and the birds
for company. Along the way
Calakmul (see pp34–5). are stop-offs at the Puuc
sites of Sayil,Xlapak (see
Stephens and Catherwood p39), and Labná. At the
end of the road, descend
The existence of ancient Mayan into the netherworld of
civilization was brought to the Loltún, refreshing your-
world’s attention by American self afterward in its café.
traveler John Lloyd Stephens
(1805–52) and English artist Go down to Oxcutzcab,
Frederick Catherwood (1799– and turn left for Ticul (p108) .
1854). Traveling together in Dine on poc-chuc at Los
1839–42, they provided the first Almendros (p111) and
full descriptions and drawings of take a stroll around the
Chichén Itzá and Uxmal, and are plaza to soak up some
credited with the discovery of Yucatán country life before
Kabah and Sayil, among others. you drive back to Mérida.
For more about Dzibilchaltún, Kabah, Sayil, and Labná, visit 107
www.inah.gob.mx
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Left Chelem Center Ticul Right Mayapán
Best of the Rest

! Chelem and Yucalpetén
Just west of Progreso, on
Puuc carving (see p31). d Map C4
• www.inah.gob.mx • 8am–5pm daily
the other side of a gap in the • Adm
coastal sand bar, these easy-
going villages have long, almost
empty beaches. They’re popular ^ Ticul
One of the most charming of
for windsurfing. d Map C2 Yucatán’s country towns (see also
p41), and an enjoyable base in the
@ Oxkintok
This ancient Mayan city has
Puuc region, Ticul is also a historic
center for ceramics. d Map C4
a Satunsat, or “Labyrinth”
pyramid, containing a strange,
dark maze, possibly built as an & Acanceh
On one side of the square of
entrance to the Underworld that this remarkable little town is an
only the Lord of Oxkintok could 18th-century church, while on
use. d Map B3 • 8am–5pm daily another is a very ancient Mayan
• Adm pyramid, perhaps begun around
300 BC (see pp40–41). d Map C3
£ Yaxcopoíl Hacienda
Of all the restored haciendas
* Mayapán
in the Yucatán, this one, with its The last big Mayan city, and
crumbling, ornate main house and one that dominated the Yucatán
factory buildings, gives the best for 200 years after 1200. Its
feel of life here when henequen buildings often “mimic” Chichén
or “green gold”(see p37) domi- Itzá and have well-preserved
nated the state. d Map C3 • 8am– frescoes. d Map C3 • www.inah.gob.mx
6pm Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun • Adm • 8am–5pm daily • Adm
$ Cenotes
The cenotes and underwater ( The Campeche Petenes
This mangrove and forest
rivers in western Yucatán are far wilderness is home to a wide
less well explored than those range of wildlife such as pumas
around Tulum (see pp18–19). and turtles. Trips can be arranged
Snorkeling and diving trips are from Campeche or the village of
beginning to be organized from Isla Arena (see p49). d Map A4
Mérida; Yucatán Trails agency (see
p124) can book tours.
) Edzná
A Mayan city as spectacular
% Xlapak
The smallest Puuc site is as
as Chichén Itzá. The “Building of
the Five Stories” is one of the
attractive for the undisturbed largest Mayan palaces (see also
woodland walk as for its ruins. p35). d Map B5 • www.inah.gob.mx
The little Palacio has intricate • 8am–5pm daily • Adm
108
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Left Mexicanísimo, Mérida Center Guayaberas Jack, Mérida Right Arte Maya,Ticul
Places to Shop
! Mérida Market
One of the world’s greatest ^ Maya Chuy, Mérida
This charming shop away
markets, a labyrinth of alleys and from Mérida’s crowded shopping
stalls selling everything imagin- streets is the outlet of a women’s
able – fish, fruit, a dazzling variety embroidery cooperative. Blouses,
of chilies, rows of huípil dresses, mats, and other items are beauti-
sandals, and hats. d Calle 65, fully, individually made. d Calle 60,
between Calle 54 and Calle 58 • Map C2 between Calle 47 and Calle 49 • Map C2
@ Bazar de Artesanías Craft

Market, Mérida & Mexicanísimo, Mérida
Innovative store that sells
This semi-official handicrafts lightweight clothes for men and
market is packed with stalls women in original, modern
selling every kind of Yucatecan designs, using Mexican cottons
and Mexican craft work, some of and other traditional materials.
it excellent, some rather tatty. d Parque Hidalgo Calle 60, between
d Calle 67, by corner of Calle 56 • Map C2 Calle 59 and Calle 61 • Map C2
£ Casa de Artesanías, Mérida

The Yucatán state handicrafts * Guayaberas Jack, Mérida
The guayabera shirt-jacket is
store has high-quality local work, the smartest thing for gentlemen
with many beautiful, usable things to wear in tropical Mérida. This
especially in textiles, basketware, long-established shop sells only
and wood. d Calle 63, No.503, between guayaberas, and can make them
Calle 64 and Calle 66 • Map C2 to measure. d Calle 59, No.507,
between Calle 60 and Calle 62 • Map C2
Hamacas Aguacate,
$ Mérida
( Arte Maya, Ticul
Only hammocks, of every size Ticul produces huge quantities
and color, and all of fine quality. of ceramics. This family-run store
The staff speak some English stands out for the owners’ skills
and take great care to find out and careful use of traditional and
just what you want. d Calle 73, even ancient Mayan techniques.
by Calle 58 • Map C2 d Calle 23, No.301 • Map C4
% ElMérida
Sombrero Popular,
) Casa de Artesanías
Tukulná, Campeche
A little hat shop opposite the Campeche’s state handicrafts
market, with a very friendly store has ceramics, embroidery,
owner who will show you piles basketwork, and many other top
of handmade panamas in all sorts quality items that are beautifully
of styles and sizes. d Calle 65, displayed. d Calle 10, No.333,
between Calle 58 and Calle 60 • Map C2 between Calle 59 and Calle 61 • Map A5
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! Pancho’s, Mérida
The liveliest, most enjoyable
enchiladas or another of their
Mexican classics. d Calle 59, No.502
bar-restaurant and dance club in Centro • Map C2 • (999) 928 1691 • $$
central Mérida has Mexican bandit
decor, welcoming staff, and a tiny,
buzzing open-air dance floor (see ^ Jugos California, Mérida
Fresh-juice stands are a
p61). d Calle 59, No.509, between wonderful local institution, and
Calle 60 and Calle 62 • Map C2 • $$ California wins the prize as the
best in town. Watermelon, pine-
@ Dulcería y Sorbetería
El Colón, Mérida
apples, papaya, and more are all
waiting to be juiced. d Calle 63A,
Choose from a huge array of corner of Calle 58 • Map C2 • $
fruit-flavored sorbets and ice
creams at this plaza-front parlor.
A popular order is a champola, & ElA snug,
Edén, Mérida
out-of-the-way bar in
scoops of fruit ice served in a tall the patios of an old house, with
glass with milk. d Calle 59, on the distinctly quirky decor of tangled
plaza • Map C2 • $ wood and old furniture and lots of
intimate corners. d Calle 55, between
£ ElTheCumbanchero, Mérida
son of Buena Vista Social
Calle 56 and Calle 58 • Map C2 • $$
Club member Rubén González runs

this small salsa bar. Live bands * Flamingos, Progreso
One of Progreso’s most enjoy-
start around 10pm for older but able big terrace bar-restaurants,
very energetic dancers. d Paseo with tasty ceviches (see p69) to
Montejo at Calle 39 • Map C2 • $ go with the beer. d Malecón, corner
of Calle 22 • Map C2 • $$
Las Brasas, Mérida
$ The cooler nightlife in Mérida
( Casa Vieja, Campeche
takes place on Paseo de Montejo, Watch the sun set from the
and this bar-restaurant has a balcony of this Cuban restaurant-
great view of the paseo from a bar on Campeche’s central
roof terrace. It has good snacks square. Enjoy their minty Mojitos
and a laid-back feel. d Paseo de made with Cuban rum. d Calle 10
Montejo 462, by Calle 37 • Map C2 • $$ No.319, Altos on the plaza • Map A5 • $$
% LaAt the
Parranda, Mérida
weekend, when ) LaAround
Principal, Campeche
the bandstand in the
they put tables outside, this middle of Campeche’s main square
restaurant is an ideal spot for are the terrace tables of this café,
observing all the activity in with sandwiches and Mexican
Parque Hidalgo. Settle in with a snacks as well as the necessary
drink, and try one of the great drinks. d Parque Principal • Map A5 • $
110
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Price Categories

Left Hacienda Ochil Right Los Almendros,Ticul
Places to Eat
! Hacienda San José Cholul
Set in a colonial hacienda, ^ LaAutomatic
Palapa, Celestún
first choice in
this restaurant’s biggest draw is Celestún, an ideally comfortable
the secluded garden. The service beach terrace beneath a palapa
is also excellent. d Highway roof, with succulent, coriander-
Tixkokob–Tekanto, km 30 • Map C2 rich platters of fish, shrimp, and
• (999) 960 9033 • $$$$ octopus. d Calle 12, by corner of
Calle 11 • Map A3 • (988) 916 2063 • $$$
Casa de Piedra, Xcanatún
@ Another comfortable hacienda
& Hacienda Ochil
restaurant in a garden, Casa de A restaurant in a restored
Piedra combines local and hacienda, offering finely prepared
Caribbean cooking with a few traditional Yucatecan dishes on a
French touches (see pp70–71). delightful terrace. d Off Highway 261,
d Xcanatún, 12 km (7 miles) N of Mérida signposted about 40 km (25 miles) from
• Map C2 • (999) 941 0213 • $$$$$ Mérida • Map C3 • (999) 910 6035 • $$$
£ Amaro, Mérida
One of old Mérida’s loveliest * LaLocated
Palapa del Lodge, Uxmal
opposite the ruins
patios houses this relaxing restau- of Uxmal, this restaurant has a
rant, which has a half-vegetarian tropical garden, ethnic artworks,
menu, including several dishes and fine local and international
made with the special Yucatecan cuisine. d Antigua Carretera Mérida-
vegetable chaya. d Calle 59, No.507, Campeche km 78 • Map C4 • $$$
between Calle 60 and Calle 62 • Map C2
• (999) 928 2451 • No credit cards • $$$
( Los Almendros, Ticul
This country restaurant is
$ ElCeviche
Marlin Azul, Mérida
is the dish to order at
credited with almost reinventing
traditional Yucatecan food for the
this seafood restaurant but also outside world. Try the pavo en
try the shrimp fajitas. Go for lunch, relleno negro, a great example of
as it closes at 4pm (see p70). d the rich flavors of local cooking
Calle 62 No.488, between Calle 57 and (see p71). d Calle 23, No.207, by Calle
Calle 59 • Map C2 • (999) 928 1606 • $$$ 26A • Map C4 • (997) 972 0021 • $$$
% ElSetPrincipe Tutul-Xiu, Maní

under a giant palapa ) Marganzo, Campeche
Bright and comfortable, this
roof, this restaurant is busiest on popular restaurant is an excellent
Sundays, when families drive place to sample the distinctive,
from Mérida to eat poc-chuc, sea-based cuisine of Campeche
panuchos and other Yucatecan (see p71). d Calle 8, No.265, between
staples. d Calle 26 No.208, between Calle 57 and Calle 59 • Map A5 • (981)
Calle 25 and Calle 27 • Map C4 • $$$ 811 3895 • No credit cards • $$$

meals; phone numbers are listed only where appropriate
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STREETSMART
Planning Your Trip
114
Arriving in the Yucatán
115
STREETSMART
Getting Around Tips
116
Sources of Information
117
Banking and
Communications
118
Security and Health Tips
119
Things to Avoid
120
Tips for the Disabled
121
Shopping Tips
122
Budget Tips
123
Tours and
Special Interests
124
Eating and Drinking Tips
125
Places to Stay
126–133
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2:27:32 PM
Streetsmart
Left Insect coil and repellent Right Sian Ka’an reserve
Planning Your Trip

! Seasons
The Yucatán has a $ Customs
Regulations
to be immunized against
typhoid, tetanus, polio,
tropical weather pattern, There are few limits on and hepatitis A. If you’re
with a dry season build- the items that visitors can heading into forest areas
ing up in heat from bring for their personal further south in Central
November to June, and a use, including up to 12 America, consult your doc-
wet season from June to rolls of film or video cas- tor about taking malaria
November. The months of settes. However, there are pills. A basic first-aid kit
September to November restrictions on the import would include bite
are when hurricanes are of plants and perishable cream, antiseptic wipes,
most possible. The peak foods, and very strict and stomach remedies.
seasons for vacation restrictions on firearms,
travel (and so for prices)
are from mid-December
which can be confiscated
without compensation. * Insect Repellent
Bug repellent is a
to March, and July and must anywhere near
August. The lowest
prices are available in % Insurance
Take out a compre-
forests and mangroves,
and you will have a better
May and June, and hensive travel insurance choice of products if you
October and November. policy that covers buy before you come to
cancellations, loss of Mexico. The best types
@ Passports
and Visas
baggage, theft, and all
medical eventualities,
contain the common
ingredient DEET. There
U.S. and Canadian citizens including repatriation. If are more natural
can officially enter Mexico you intend to go scuba alternatives that smell
with only their birth certi- diving you may need better, but unfortunately
ficate or a certified copy additional cover, so check they’re not as effective.
of it, but in practice it’s your policy carefully.
better to take a passport.
( Electricity
Citizens of the UK, Ireland,
other EU countries, Aus- ^ Packing
Despite the usual
Electricity operates
on a 110 volt system, as
tralia, and New Zealand warmth in the Yucatán, in the U.S. and Canada,
must have a full passport it’s useful to have a long- and with the same Ameri-
to enter Mexico, but do sleeved shirt and long can-type flat-pin plugs. If
not need visas for stays trousers when you’re you bring any 220–240
up to six months. exploring Mayan ruins volt equipment, you will
and forests, to avoid need a transformer and
£ Currency
Mexican pesos and
sunburn, scratches, and
bug bites. Other things
plug adaptor.
U.S. dollars are accepted

in the Yucatán. Mexican
that are cheaper or more
easily obtained outside ) Special
Interest Tours
banks are happy to change Mexico include film and If you plan activities such
American dollars and, to snorkels, but excellent as scuba diving, cave
a lesser extent, Canadian sunhats can be bought diving, Sian Ka’an tours,
dollars, but other curren- once you’re here. and adventure trips on a
cies can be very prob- fixed schedule, try to
lematic and expensive to
change. It is therefore & Health
Precautions
book trips as far ahead
as possible, by e-mail or
best to take credit cards There are no obligatory the Net. Many operators
and U.S. dollars in cash inoculations for travelers are small-scale and
or traveler’s checks to Mexico, but as a quickly fill up, especially
(see p118). precaution it’s advisable in peak seasons.
114 Previous pages La Madonna, Cancún (see p82)
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5:47:31 PM
Streetsmart
Left Aerocaribe poster Center Cancun Airport Right Ferry
Arriving in the Yucatán

! International
Airports
very bad rates. Change
only the minimum you
center. Colectivo buses
and airport taxis operate.
The main international air- need to get into Cancún,
port for the Peninsula is
15 km (9 miles) south of
then find a bank.
( Driving
from the U.S.
Ciudad Cancún, near the
southernmost point of % From Cancún Air-
port into Cancún
You will need a Tourist
Card if you travel beyond
Cancún Island. Cozumel Van-sized colectivo buses the 20-km (12-mile) border
and Mérida also have are the most accessible zone and if you stay for
international connections. means of public transport more than 72 hours. You
Flights from the U.S. and into town. They go along should also obtain
Canada are numerous. the Hotel Zone and into Mexican insurance and a
From the UK, unless you Ciudad Cancún, dropping Temporary Import Permit
get a charter, expect a each passenger at their for your vehicle, which is
stop-off at at Mexico City hotel, and the full journey valid for six months.
or a U.S. airport en route. takes an hour. Airport Allow five days or so to
taxis are hard to find. drive from the Texas
@ Tourist Cards
All visitors must fill in
However, when you’re
leaving, any Cancún city
border to the Yucatán.
a Mexican Tourist Card,

which will be stamped
cab can take you to the
airport (see p116). ) Ferries
Florida
from
with the length of your A car and passenger ferry

permitted stay, from 30
days to six months. Keep ^ From Cancún Air-
port to Other
service runs between Flo-
rida and the Yucatán, with
it with your passport, East Coast Resorts regular sailings between
since it must be collected A Riviera bus leaves for Tampa and Progreso and
at check-in when you leave. Puerto Morelos and Playa Puerto Morelos. Each trip
If you need more than 30 del Carmen almost hourly, takes around 24 hours.
days, explain this to the 10:30am–7pm. There are
Immigration Officer or also hourly colectivos
apply for an extension at 6am–6pm from outside Directory
the Mexican Immigration Domestic Arrivals. An air-
Office in Cancún. port cab to Puerto Morelos Immigration Office
or Playa will cost around Cancún airport • (998)
886 0092 • 7am–7pm
£ Customs Checks
You must also fill in a
$15. If you’re going any-
where else on the coast, Mon–Fri
customs form. If you go take the bus to Playa and
Airlines in Cancún
through the nothing-to- go on from there.
• Aeroméxico (998)
declare channel at the
849 2222 • American
airport you will have to
press a button on a mach- & Cozumel Airport
The island’s airport is
Airlines (998) 886 0247,
Toll free 01 800 904
ine. It randomly flashes just north of San Miguel
6000 • Continental
either green (go straight town. Official airport
(998) 886 0006 • Iberia
ahead) or red (meaning taxis and colectivos are
(998) 886 0243 • Click
your bag will be searched). the usual means of
Mexicana (998) 881
transportation.
9090
$ Changing Money
at the Airport
There are exchange * Mérida Airport
Mérida airport is
Ferries
• www.yucatan
desks in the baggage about 4 km (3 miles)
express.com
hall, but they always give southwest of the city
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Left Taxi Center Cancún bus Right Passenger ferry
Getting Around Tips

! Internal Flights
Aerocaribe (see
ferries daily from Punta
Sam, north of Puerto
in Mérida, where rates
are lower (see p123). To
p115), a Mexicana Juárez (around $22 for a rent a car you need to be
subsidiary, has the most car and two people). over 21 and have your
routes in the Yucatán. Shuttle boats also run from driving license, passport,
Fares are quite high, so points along Cancún beach. and a credit card. Jeeps
take advantage of the are a popular choice.
Mexipass discount
% Ferries
Cozumel
to
system (see p123). Low-
cost airlines include Passenger ferries run * Fuel and Tolls
Prices are usually
Volaris (www.volaris.com. roughly every two hours higher than in the U.S.
mx) and Interjet (www. between Playa del but lower than in Europe
interjet.com.mx). Carmen (984 871 5109, for both unleaded (magna
Calica 984 879 3113) and or higher-grade premium)
@ Long-Distance
Buses
Cozumel. The trip takes
30 minutes. A Cozumel
and diesel fuel. Gas
stations are scarce in
Buses are the main form Shuttle runs from Playa some areas (see p120).
of transport for longer Tortugas in Cancún. The There are two fast toll
trips, unless you rent a car ferry from Puerto highways in the Yucatán,
car or fly. First-class Morelos is infrequent and the 180-Cuota part of the
buses are air-conditioned expensive. way between Cancún
and run between main and Mérida, and another
towns with only a few
stops en route. Second- ^ Taxis
Mexican taxis do not
stretch between
Campeche and Champ-
class buses stop more have meters. Instead, otón. Tolls are high ($25,
often and are cheaper. there are officially set Cancún–Mérida), so most
rates for each locality, drivers prefer the parallel
£ Local Buses, Com-
bis & Colectivos
with extra charges for
longer journeys, which
old road (180–Libre).
Every city has a local bus

service. Destinations are
are usually posted up at
bus stations and some ( Scooters, Golf
Carts & Bikes
usually displayed on the taxi stands. In Cancún, Scooters and golf carts
windscreen, but in the official rates are are available for rent in
Cancún buses have route significantly higher for many resorts. Cancún
numbers (routes R-1 and journeys to and from any- has a dedicated cycle
R-2 run up and down the where in the Hotel Zone track all along the Hotel
Hotel Zone and to Ciudad than in Ciudad Cancún. In Zone, and many hotels
Cancún). Combis, also Cancún and on the coast have bikes for guests’
known as colectivos, are agree the fare before you use. Isla Mujeres is ideal
minibuses that serve the get in the cab, to avoid for cycling, as are Tulum
smaller districts. scams (see p120). and Valladolid.
$ Ferries
Mujeres
to Isla
& Car Rental
A car is a huge ) On Foot
Old Yucatán towns
Passenger ferries run advantage for getting to like Mérida, Campeche,
from Puerto Juárez, just Mayan ruins and isolated and Valladolid are com-
north of Cancún, about beaches. There are plenty pact, and strolling around
every half hour daily. Fast of rental offices on the is the best way to get to
boats take 20 minutes Riviera, but if you are know them. Mechanized
and the fare is around touring around the transport is only really
$4. There are five car Yucatán it’s best to rent essential in Cancún.
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Left Xcaret eco-park Center Local agency Right Maps and brochures
Sources of Information
! Mexican Tourist
Offices Abroad ^ English-Language
Press Directory
Official Mexican govern- Miami Herald produces Mexican Tourism
ment tourist offices can a special edition for Board
provide information on Cancún. The News is an • U.S. and Canada;
major destinations. How- English-language paper 1 800 44 MEXICO;
ever, for more detailed produced by the Mexico www.visitmexico.com
and up-to-date information City daily Novedades.
on specialist activities, • UK, (020) 7488 9392;
http://mexicotravel.co.uk
small-scale hotels, eco-
tourism, and adventure & Local Travel
Agencies Tourist Offices
tours, look at specialist These can be good for in the Yucatán
independent agencies unusual local tours, diving, • Cancún: Cancún Town
and websites. forest trips, and so on. Hall, Av Tulum
Among the best are • Playa del Carmen: Av
@ Tourist Offices in
the Riviera
Mundaca Travel on Isla
Mujeres and Yucatán
Juárez, corner of Av 15
• Isla Mujeres:Av
The Cancún city tourist Trails in Mérida. Internet Rueda Medina 130
desks in the town hall cafés (see p118) are • Mérida:Teatro Peón
and some shopping malls another good resource Contreras, corner of
are staffed by students for finding out local info. Calle 60 and 57
who can provide informa- • Campeche: Casa
tion on the main local
attractions and services. * Maps
The free magazines
Seis, Parque Principal
• Valladolid: southeastern
have quite decent maps corner of town square
£ Offices in Yucatán
State & Campeche
of their areas, but you
will need to visit Mérida’s Websites
Mérida, Campeche, and Librería-Papelería Burrel • www.cancun.com
Valladolid have tourist for the best maps. • www.cozumelonline.
information offices. com
• www.mexicanwave.
( Ecotourism com
$ Websites
A huge amount of
Most ecotours are
run by small-scale opera- • www.mexonline.com
information is available tors, which can be hard • www2.planeta.com/
on the Internet (see to locate. An essential madder/ecotravel/
Directory). For diving, a resource is the Eco Travels mexico (Eco Travels
search under “dive Mexi- in Mexico website. The in Mexico)
co” will produce results. Pronatura organization Local agencies
(www.pronatura.org.mx) • Mundaca Travel, Isla
Free Magazines is another useful resource.
% English-language (See also p124.)
Mujeres (998) 877
0025, www.mundaca
freebies available in tour- travel.com
ist offices, hotels, and
restaurants include Cancún ) Spanish-Language
Press
• Yucatán Trails, Calle
62, No.482, Mérida
Tips, Cozumel’s Blue The Diario de Yucatán (a (999) 928 2582
Guide, Yucatán Today in daily paper) is the main
Mérida, Playa del Carmen, place to find out about Maps
and Info-Tulum. They any local fiestas and other • Librería-Papelería
contain maps, practical events around the region. Burrel, Calle 59 by Calle
information, and some- Town fiestas are usually 60, Mérida
times discount coupons. given full-page ads.
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Left ATM Center left Payphone Center right Mailbox Right Internet café
Banking and Communications

! The Peso
Mexico’s currency is $ Bureaux de Change
All tourist areas have
Within the same area
code, only dial the seven-
the peso. There are coins many small exchange figure number. To call
for 1, 2, 5, and 10 pesos; offices (cambios), open outside Mexico, dial 00
and notes for 20, 50, daily. Exchange rates are followed by the country
100, 200, 500, and 1000 usually almost as good code. To call Mexico from
pesos. There are also tiny as in the banks. abroad the code is 52.
coins for 10, 20, and 50 For long-distance calls to
centavos, of which there
are 100 to the peso. The % Credit Cards
MasterCard and VISA
cell phones first dial 045.
usual symbol for the

peso is the same as the
are widely accepted for
larger purchases in shops, * Charges
Telephone charges
dollar sign; prices quoted diving schools, and in are high in Mexico.
in U.S. dollars usually hotels of mid-range level Making an international
have the prefix US$ or and above; Amex is less call from your hotel room
suffix USD. popular. Credit cards are will be the most expen-
virtually essential for car sive of all – ask people
@ Using U.S. Dollars
Many Riviera
rentals, but some restau-
rants and smaller shops
to ring you from abroad
whenever possible.
businesses accept U.S. rarely accept them.
dollars as well as pesos,
( Mail
and a substantial number
of visitors use only U.S. ^ Telephones
White lada (long
Post offices in towns
generally open 9am–6pm
dollars during their trip. distance) payphones are Monday to Friday, and
Hotel and restaurant easy to find in towns and 9am–1pm Saturday. Small
listings in this book are tourist areas. Most take village branches may open
given in price categories phone cards (tarjeta de only on weekday mornings.
of U.S. dollars. Note, teléfonos), which can be Stamps (estampillas) can
though, that U.S. dollar bought for 30, 50, or 100 also be bought at any
prices usually work out a pesos at any shop with shop with an Expendio
bit higher than pesos. In the blue and yellow de Estampillas sign. The
the rest of the Yucatán, Ladatel sign. In villages, Mexican mail service is
shops and businesses there is always a caseta, very erratic, and postcards
usually take pesos only. or phone office, where sent abroad can take
the attendant dials the weeks. For anything im-
# Banks and ATMs
There are clusters of
number for you and you
take the call in a booth.
portant, use the Mexpost
courier service, available
banks in the center of all Cellphones operate on at main post offices.
main towns, but they can the same band as in the
be hard to find in rural
areas. Banks are generally
USA (European mobiles
do not usually work). ) Internet
Mexico has taken
open 8:30am–4pm Mon- enthusiastically to the
day to Friday, and 9am–
1pm Saturday, but some & Phone Codes
To call anywhere in
Internet, and Net cafés
and easy-access Net
may not exchange money Mexico outside your local shops are abundant,
in the afternoons and on area, first dial 01, then the even in small towns.
Saturdays. Most banks three-figure area code Most charge around
even in small towns now 998 for Cancún, or 999 $1–$2 an hour. E-mail is
have ATMs, often the most for Mérida (given with all a far more reliable means
economical way of obtain- numbers in this guide) of communication than
ing cash (see p120, no. 7). and then the number. the local postal service.
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Left Police station Center Ambulance Right Pharmacy sign
Security and Health Tips

! Emergencies
There are central
Mérida, generally in the
form of trying to sell you ( Pharmacies
All Mexican towns
phone numbers for all hammocks or other and villages have pharma-
emergency services in cheap craftwork rather cies, often open 24 hours,
Cancún (060) and Mérida than straight begging. which stock a huge range
(066), but in general it’s of medications.
better to call the local
% Police Stations
police directly, or the
Red Cross in case of
In most towns, the
police station can always ) Water
The quality of mains
medical emergencies. In be found in the main water has improved a lot,
Cancún, the private, square or next to the especially in Cancún.
English-speaking clinics town hall. Cancún, Playa, To be on the safe side,
also have emergency Mérida, and some other however, drink only
ambulances. towns have special bottled, purified water
Tourist Police (Policía (agua purificada), sold in
@ Swimming Safety
Most waters around
Turística) units with
English-speaking officers.
grocery stores, super-
markets and pharmacies.
the Yucatán are placid, Many hotels provide it
but take care on the
eastern beaches of Isla ^ Consulates
There are U.S.
for free, and most bars
and restaurants use it to
Mujeres and Cozumel consulates in Cancún, make ice.
and on the surf beaches Cozumel, and Mérida.
of Cancún Island, where The UK and several other Directory
seas are rougher and countries have
there can be a strong consulates in Cancún. Emergency Numbers
undertow. Check the • Cancún Tourist Police
066 • Mérida Tourist
warning flags (blue, safe;
yellow, use caution; red, & Women Travelers
Lone women need to Police 066 or (999) 983
do not swim) before be careful in Playa del 1184
swimming. Several high- Carmen and parts of Red Cross
standard emergency Cancún and Tulum. Avoid Ambulances
facilities for divers are set empty streets at night, • Cancún 065 or (998)
along the Riviera, which lonely beaches around 884 1616 • Mérida
all dive-masters will be in Playa, and obscure areas (999) 924 9813
touch with. of Mayan sites.
Medical Clinics
# Personal Safety Health Services

The Yucatán is a fairly * Visitors with full
• American Hospital
Retorno Viento St No.15
tranquil place, but be travel health insurance Cancún (998) 884 6133
wary of pickpocketing should turn to private • Centro Médico de las
and other petty crime in clinics, such as the Américas, C/54 No.365,
Playa del Carmen. American Hospital in nr Paseo Montejo,
Cheaper cabañas on the Cancún, or the Centro Mérida, (999) 926 2619
north beach in Tulum are Médico de las Américas
Consulates
sometimes subject to in Mérida, which have
• British (998) 881 0100
break-ins at night. English-speaking staff. In
• Canadian (998) 883 33
small towns and country
60 • U.S. (Cancún) (998)
$ Begging
There is a certain
areas there are small
public health centers
883 0272, (in Cozumel)
(987) 872 4574, (Mérida)
amount of street-hassling (centros de salud) with
(999) 942 5700
in Cancún, Playa, and emergency facilities.
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Left Taxi Center Official tourist information Right Mangroves
Things to Avoid
! Taxi Scams
Taxis are subject to
and look straight at the
pump. The attendant
crowded around the
middle of the day when
set fees (see p116). In should then demonstrate most tour groups arrive,
Cancún, Playa del Carmen, that it is set at zero. and especially on Sun-
and Tulum, though, cab days when admission is
drivers have a bad
reputation for trying out % Driving at Night
Night falls very
free. Therefore, try to get
to them earlier in the day,
exaggerated rates on all quickly in the tropics, and after 8am, and forget the
foreigners. In Cancún, there is no lighting at all free Sundays. Lesser-
also, the complicated in country areas. Topes, known ruins in Yucatán
official system, with potholes, and people on State and Campeche are
different prices for the bicycles can rapidly rarely subject to crowds.
Hotel Zone and Ciudad become hazardous.
Cancún, makes scams
( Hurricanes
easier. Always agree a
price before getting into ^ Bogus Informa
tion Booths
September to Novem-
ber are the months when
the cab, and be firm in Along Avenida Tulum in hurricanes are most likely
refusing any outrageous Cancún, Quinta Avenida to hit. Mexico has exten-
demands. in Playa del Carmen, and sive anti-hurricane pre-
some other locations cautions, and many
@ Topes
Bumps
– Speed there are any number of
kiosks with eager staff
buildings in Cancún and
the Riviera have orange
The main peculiarity of buttonholing tourists and signs identifying them as
driving in Mexico is the asking if they’re looking an official Refugio
tope, or speed bump, for “information.” They Anticiclón, to be used as
designed to make the are actually selling speci- a public hurricane shelter
streets safer for pedes- fic tours or, at worst, when necessary.
trians and children. Very timeshares. For less
steep, they are usually
signposted but can catch
biased advice, stick to
the official tourist offices ) Mangrove
Mosquitoes
drivers unaware and (see p117). Mangroves are a breed-
cause damage to ing ground for mosquitoes.
vehicles going at any Running Low They are most active in
speed above a crawl. & on Cash the early evening, when
At present there are no they spread into neigh-
# Running
on Gas
Low banks or ATMs on the
southern Riviera between
boring areas – especially
around Sian Ka’an, on
Fuel stations are few and Playa del Carmen and Isla Holbox, and around
far between in many rural Tulum, and only a few watery areas and
areas, so fill up cambio offices, so plan cenotes behind the coast
whenever you can. accordingly. On Isla near Puerto Morelos,
Mujeres and Cozumel, Tankah, and some other
$ Fuel
Scams
Station there are no money-
exchange facilities outside
points on the Riviera.
Bug repellent can keep
Occasionally, attendants Isla Town and San Miguel down their attacks, but
start the pump with 30 except in big hotels. the best way to avoid
or 50 pesos already on bites is just to stay away
the gauge, or try to short-
change tourists. To avoid * Crowds
The best-known
from those areas at dusk.
The good news is that
these and any other Mayan ruins at Chichén mosquitoes are not
scams, get out of the car Itzá and Tulum are very malarial in the Yucatán.
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Left Signs for disabled restrooms Center Airport transportation Right Wheelchair ramp
Tips for the Disabled

! Hotels
Some of the larger
Campeche fortress
museums are entered by
dation at the Casa Tucán
hotel (see p130).
hotels and resort com- ramps in any case). Of
plexes in Cancún and
Cozumel, especially those
the other attractions
around the Yucatán, eco- ( Restrooms
Fully-adapted disabled
of Intercontinental, now parks and especially restrooms are slowly
have good wheelchair Xcaret(see pp14–15) are being installed in official
facilities. Hotels set in generally the easiest to buildings (which include
colonial-style patio build- visit and appreciate. airports, state museums,
ings are difficult for access, some bus stations), but
but several have attrac-
tive ground-floor rooms. % Mayan Sites
Larger Mayan ruins,
they are rarely found in
private facilities. You are
Check when booking. such as Chichén Itzá and most likely to find good
Uxmal, have (relatively) ones in Cancún and the
@ Sidewalks
Most Cancún side-
smooth walkways, and
Cobá has a long forest
main resort areas.
walks now have wheel-

chair ramps at street
path that is easy to
negotiate at most points ) Further
Information
junctions. Elsewhere, and is also great for bird- The best way to find
dips in the sidewalk watching. Most ruins, individual hotels that
provided for handcarts though, have many steps have disabled-friendly
often do the job as well. and narrow, stony paths. facilities is to search the
Internet with “disabled”
# Transportation
and Taxis ^ Island Ferries
The slow ferries to
and then “Cancún,”
“Mérida,” or any other
Public transportation pro- Isla Mujeres are much location you are
vision for disabled people easier to get aboard with interested in. The
is poor, although there a wheelchair than the websites for Mobility
are wheelchair ramps fast, enclosed boats, and International USA and
and disabled toilets at the crews are very help- Access-Able also have
Cancún Airport. Buses ful. For Cozumel, there is many useful links.
rarely have any special no real alternative to the
provision for wheelchairs enclosed boats from
or people with mobility Playa del Carmen, but Directory
problems, but this is often staff, again, are helpful. Intercontinental
compensated for by the Hotels
willingness of drivers to Swimming Pools
help disabled travelers. & All hotels and public
www.presidenteinter
continental.com
Many car rental agencies pools are now obliged to
have larger vehicles: provide access and safety Yucatek Divers
make clear what you facilities for people with Av 15 North, between
need when booking. mobility problems, but C/2 & 4, Playa del Car-
upgrading amenities is men • (984) 877 6026
or (984) 803 1363 •
$ Museums and
Attractions
proving a slow process.
www.yucatek-divers.com
The main state
museums, including the * Diving
Yucatek Divers in
Mobility
International USA
Anthropology Museum in Playa del Carmen has a www.miusa.org
Mérida, now have access special program for
ramps, and more are disabled divers and can AccessAble
www.access-able.com
being provided (the also arrange accommo-
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Left Hammocks for sale Center Brightly painted ceramic ornament Right Panama hats
Shopping Tips
! Shop and
Market Hours
so take time to browse.
Favorite items include
several fine rums and
Xtabentún, a sweet,
Most shops open around enamelled metal plaques herby, traditional Mayan
8:30am and close at 9pm, and ornaments, Mayan- drink made from honey.
Monday to Saturday, with style wooden figures,
the more traditional ones
closing for lunch from
brightly painted wooden
parrots and toucans, and * Traditional Textiles
Fine embroidery of
1–3pm. Some local colorful coasters. bright flower patterns on
stores will always stay a plain white background
open for longer hours, Jewelry is one of the foremost
and on Sundays, too. % Gleaming jewelry traditional products of
Sunday is a full shopping stores aimed at cruise the Yucatán, most often
day in Valladolid and passengers and including seen in the simple huípil
some other towns. some major names (Van dresses worn by Mayan
Markets generally begin Cleef & Arpels), are a women but also now
very early, before 8am, specialty of Cozumel used on other items like
and close up by 2–3pm. and, to a lesser extent, blouses, handkerchiefs,
Isla Mujeres and Cancún. and tablecloths. Valladolid
@ Bargaining
Discounts
and As well as a lot of fine
silver, they have items
and Mérida are the best
places to find good
Trying to haggle is fine in made with local precious embroidery. Textiles from
markets, especially for materials such as jade, other parts of Mexico
larger items, but should amber, coral, and black (Chiapas weaving, sarape
rarely be intensive or obsidian. Prices are rising blankets) are also
drawn-out. Many shops but are still tax-free and available, but note that
will offer discounts if you low. Playa del Carmen and sarapes, especially, are
want to buy more than Cancún have many often factory-made.
one of any article. stores showcasing ornate
fine silver work from
( Hammocks
# Official Handi-
crafts Stores
Taxco in central Mexico. Hammocks vary a lot
in quality. The cheap
Mérida and Campeche
have official handicrafts ^ Cigars
Genuine Cuban
nylon ones sold by most
street-sellers wear out
stores (Casas de Artesa- Havana cigars are easy to quickly. The toughest
nías), which showcase all obtain in Mexico, and are ones are 100% cotton,
the traditional crafts of relatively cheap. All the and the specialist
each state. They are a Cancún malls contain hammock shops in the
little more expensive specialist cigar stores market area in Mérida
than the norm, but with a full range of labels. are by far the best places
provide an attractive to look for one.
overview of the work.
& Tequila and
Other Drinks
) Panama Hats
$ Gifts and Souvenirs
The Riviera is a huge
Sadly, tequila is now
peculiarly expensive in its
Traditional Panamas
make excellent, practical
souvenir repository: homeland. Take advantage sunhats, and the good
you’ll find whole malls of duty-free sales at ones will regain their
dedicated to souvenir Cancún airport, where shape even after being
items in Cancún and there is an excellent rolled up for packing.
Playa del Carmen. The selection. Cheaper and Head for Mérida market
quality ranges from finely more local Yucatán and the small specialist
worked pieces to junk, specialties include hat shops nearby.
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Left Market produce Right Ecotourism sign
Budget Tips
! MexiPass
Discounts
Flight
% Discount Coupons
Local free magazines
as Río Lagartos and
Celestún, fishing trips,
The MexiPass system (see p117) often contain and tours to nature
offers foreign visitors discount coupons for a reserves like Sian Ka’an
nearly 50% discount on whole range of local are often very expensive
Mexicana, AeroCaribe, hotels, bars, restaurants, if you travel alone or as a
and Aeroméxico domes- and other attractions, and couple; or there may be
tic flights. Visitors travel- you may also be given a minimum number to
ing from North America booklets of nothing but make a trip viable for the
need to book at least discount coupons for free guide or tour operator. You
three internal flights to drinks, meals, or park can cut costs drastically
qualify for the discount; admissions. They may be and avoid disappointment
visitors from Europe need annoying to carry around, by getting together a
only two. You must book but can save you signifi- group of four to six to
the MexiPass tickets at cant amounts of money, share a boat or bus.
the same time as booking especially in Cancún.
your entry flight (which
( Diving: Group
can be with any airline).
^ Free Sundays at
Mayan Ruins
and Multi-Dive
Discounts
@ Rent a Car in
Mérida, not Cancún
Admission to some
Mexican national monu-
Most diving operators
offer discounts for
Several small car-rental ments, including some people diving in a group,
agencies in Mérida offer Mayan ruins, is free on or booking several dives
the best rates in the Sundays. The hitch is that at the same time. Many
whole of the Yucatán – since everybody knows operators will also offer
about 25% cheaper than this, the popular ruins discount rates if you
in Cancún – especially for become very crowded – book in advance.
rentals of a week or more. you may prefer to pay
Also, local agencies often
look after their cars bet-
and go on a weekday.
) Two for One
Drinks in Bars
ter than the bigger chains.
& Market Food and
Snack Stands
Most bars on the Riviera
offer a two-for-one deal
Go Low-Season There is always a row of on beers and other
# Hotel prices shoot up simple restaurants in the drinks for at least a few
in the peak winter season, food markets, offering hours each night.
above all around Christ- traditional Yucatecan and
mas and New Year, from Mexican food. These are Directory
mid-December to mid- the cheapest and often
January. To get the best also the most atmos- MexiPass
combination of prices pheric places to eat a full • U.S. and Canada
and weather, travel in May meal. You’ll also find 1 800 531 7921
to June or late November plenty of snack stands, • UK 020 8492 0000
to early December. offering tacos, tortas, Mérida Car Hire
peeled fruit, and other
• Budget, Calle 60 No.
Use Pesos pleasures, which are very
$ not Dollars good value for money.
491 btwn 57 & 59,
(999) 928 6759
It may be convenient to
• Alamo Aeropuerto,
pay in U.S. dollars, but you
will save money in the * Share Costs
on Ecotours
Highway Mérida-Uman,
km 14.5, (999) 946 2255
long run if you change Boat trips to see
your money to pesos. flamingos in such places
3/12/06 1:31:42 AM
AM
Streetsmart
Left Visiting Mayan ruins Center Snorkeling Right Dive shop
Tours and Special Interests

! Tours to
Mayan Ruins
museums of San José
and San Miguel. ) Fishing Trips
Specialist brokers
Many companies on the and fishing lodges such
Riviera and in Mérida
offer guided tours to the % Eco and
Adventure Tours
as Boca Paila in Sian
Ka’an are booked up far
main Mayan sites, Agencies in the Sian in advance. For more
bookable through hotels Ka’an reserve offer casual fishing, the best
and travel agents. Unfor- excellent day tours (see places to find captains
tunately, few allow more pp20–21), and a growing with good boats are Isla
than an hour and a half number of companies Mujeres, Cozumel, Puerto
on-site, and they often specialize in nature and Morelos, and the more
arrive all together at the birdwatching trips. rustic island of Holbox.
hottest part of the day.
^ Local Guides
Directory
@ Licensed Guides
at Mayan Ruins
Local boatmen in Río
Lagartos and Celestún Air Tours
Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, and run trips to see the • Aerosaab, (984) 873 08
Cobá have official, flamingos; while some 04, www.aerosaab.com
licensed guides who can fishermen in the Cam-
Ecotours and Guides
show you round for an peche Petenes can take
• Ecoturismo Yucatán,
hourly fee. Able linguists, you to places you’d never
(999) 920 2772, www.
they are often highly discover without local
ecoyuc.com.mx • Altour-
informative. Guides at knowledge. In Puerto Mor-
native, (984) 873 2036
the smaller sites are less elos, American resident
• Best Day, (998) 881
likely to be genuinely Goyo Morgan offers a pop-
1329 • Goyo’s Jungle
knowledgeable. ular “jungle adventure.”
Tours, Puerto Morelos,
www.goyosjungle.com
# Air Tours
Aerosaab from Playa & Cenote Tours
Cenote pools are a Diving, Snorkeling,
del Carmen and Isla unique attraction of the and Cenote Tours
Mujeres, and Cozumel- Yucatán (see pp52–3). • Almost Heaven
based Aerobanana offer Several specialists offer Adventures, Puerto
light-plane trips, while cenote tours, incorporat- Morelos, (998) 871 0230
Helitours offers helicop- ing diving or snorkeling, • Aquatech-Villas de
ter tours over Cancún. especially around Tulum. Rosa, Akumal, (984) 875
(See also p57.) 9020, www.cenotes.
com • Cenote Dive
* Diving Center, Tulum, (984) 871
$ City Tours
Mérida’s Paseo
Dive shops abound
on the Riviera, offering 2232, www.cenotedive.
Turístico bus leaves from one-day “resort courses” com • Mundaca Divers,
Parque Santa Lucía four for beginners, longer Isla Mujeres, (998) 877
times daily Monday to courses, and night dives. 0607, www.mundaca
Saturday, and twice on divers.com • Phocea
Caribe, Playa del
Sunday – the trip around
Mérida’s main sights ( Snorkel Tours
Cozumel is a great Carmen, (984) 873 1210
takes about two hours. In snorkeling area. Most • Aquaworld, Cancún,
Campeche, the Tranvía de dive centers and many (998) 848 8300, www.
la Ciudad runs from the small-boat operations aquaworld.com.mx
Parque Principal, and offer snorkel tours to • Yucatek Divers, Playa
another bus, El Guapo, inshore reefs, often in del Carmen, (984) 877
also runs to the fortress- glass-bottomed boats. 6026 or (984) 803 1363
124

17/7/08 1:29:01 AM
PM
Streetsmart
Left Snack bar Center Restaurant Right Typical Mexican spices
Eating and Drinking Tips

! Restaurantes
Loncherías
and eggs, beans, and sauces,
followed by fresh fruit.
brands (Corona, Dos Equis,
Superior), the Yucatán
Anywhere called a rest- has its own Montejo
aurante will usually be
neater and more comfort- % Meal Courses
Set meals do not fit
brewery, with a fine light
beer (Montejo Especial)
able than a cheap, plastic- easily with Mexican and a great ale, León
chaired lonchería (where cooking. Some dishes Negra. It’s more common
you have your “lonch”) or are small and snack-like, to drink beer than wine in
a cocina económica others are big platters of restaurants, as it goes
(“cheap kitchen”), the mixed fish, seafood, and better with local food.
place to find no-nonsense salads. There’s no real The quality of Mexican
local cooking. obligation to have a first wines has been improv-
course, a second course, ing, but most restaurants
@ Snack Stands
Mexicans are con-
and a dessert. When
Mexicans do have a first
have only a limited selec-
tion. Upscale restaurants
stant snackers. In every course, it’s often a have imported U.S.,
town, vendors offer surprisingly heavy soup. European, and Chilean
tacos, tortas (filled bread wines, at high prices.
rolls) and other antojitos
^ Spices and
Fieryness
(savory snacks), ice
cream, or peeled fruit, On most restaurant tables ( Tequila Tasting
Tequila comes from
from stalls or little hand- you’ll find two little Jalisco in central Mexico,
carts. The most popular bowls of sauce. The red but is found everywhere
Yucatecan taco filling is one is (relatively) gentle; in the Yucatán, and some
cochinita pibil – spicy the green one, made with Riviera bars specialize in
marinated pork. They’re habanero chilis, blows tastings of the many
very cheap and don’t the head off the uniniti- different labels. Blanco is
usually have a bad effect ated. Apart from this, the youngest tequila;
on your stomach. many local dishes are reposado is aged for up
more fragrant than spicy. to 11 months; darker
# Juice Shops añejo is aged for up to
The Yucatán’s fruit is
wonderfully fresh and & Bills and Tipping
Most waiters will not
five years. With so much
being exported, though,
juicy, from familiar types bring you the check/bill the spirit has become
like watermelon to tropi- (la cuenta or la nota) until expensive in Mexico itself.
cal mangos and mamey. you ask for it. It’s normal
Juice shops usually serve
it three ways: as straight
to tip – the usual rate is
about 10%, but on the ) Cantinas
The cantina is the
juice; a licuado, put Riviera waiters often most traditional type of
through a blender with a expect the U.S. rate of Mexican bar. There used
little water; or an agua, 15%. Some restaurants to be laws that women
diluted with water and now put a service charge were not allowed inside,
ice. (See also p71.) – generally 10% – on the and that nobody should
bill, in which case you’re be able to see in. You can
$ Breakfasts
The first meal of the
not expected to add more. still find old-style cantinas
with their secretive,
day, before the heat
rises, is an important * Beers and Wines
Mexico’s beers are
screened doorways.
However, there are now
part of the Mexican diet. among its most success- also new-model cantinas
Many restaurants offer ful exports. As well as that are actually quite
hearty breakfasts, rich in internationally marketed comfortable.
125

1:29:02 PM
145581 2:30 W2k-2
1 126 18/02/08 K40 00
K000 K202
Streetsmart
Left Las Palapas Center Cabañas María del Mar Right Genesis Retreat
Cabaña Hotels
! Shangri-La Caribe,
Playa del Carmen $ Rancho Sak Ol,
Puerto Morelos
Bird-watching trips and
tours to meet the Mayan
The ultimate in cabaña Equipped with their neighbors are offered.
luxury: palm-roofed beach trademark “hanging d Off the northeast corner
lodges with traditional beds” – solid beds on of the town plaza • (985)
Mexican fittings and five- ropes that swing. The 852 7980 • www.genesis
star comforts. The pent- cabins have a typical retreat.com • $$$
houses, in particular, are beachcomber look. The
totally fabulous. d C/ 38
Norte por 5th Av • Map Q4
use of an open kitchen is
included, and yoga is * Papaya
Tulum
Playa,
• (984) 873 0611, 1 800 942 offered. d Map R3 • (998) This long-standing cabaña
0579 • www.shangri 871 0182 • www.rancho hotel offers everything
lacaribe.net • $$$$$ sakol.com • $$$$ from a basic sand-floor
cabin with a shared bath
@ Las Palapas, Playa
del Carmen % Boca
Tulum
Paila Camps, to private villas big enough
for a family. Strung out on
A seductive beach village Built according to strict a wide stretch of un-
just north of Playa del environmental require- crowded beach, most
Carmen. It combines ments, this rustic lodge rooms have views directly
the palapa idea (a palm- is just inside the Sian onto the Caribbean.
roofed hut-type building) Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. d Beach road, km 1 • (984)
with luxurious fittings. Each “room” is actually a 130 1145 • www.papaya
Each unit is different, and sturdy tent, set on a playa.com• $$$
the suites are especially wooden platform. Bath-
attractive. There’s a pretty
beach bar and pool, and
rooms are shared, but
everything else is deluxe. ( Cuzan Guest
House, Punta Allen
many water sports are The sea views are A small place, where the
available. d Map Q4 beautiful. d Beach Road, cabins all have bathrooms.
• C/34, by the beach km 10.8 • (984) 877 8573 It’s often booked up by
• (984) 873 0584 • www.las • www.cesiak.org • $$$$ fishing groups, so check
palapas.com.mx • $$$$$ ahead. Enjoy the catch
Cabañas ^ Cabañas Paamul,

Playa del Carmen
of the day in its sand-
floored restaurant. d
£ María del Mar, Spacious beach rooms Map G5 • (983) 834 0358 •
Isla Mujeres amid a camp site; some www.flyfishmx.com • $$$$
A little island of mellow are in a modern building,
comfort just behind Isla’s
Playa Norte, with the
others in palm-roofed
huts. There’s an enjoy- ) Eco-Paraíso Xixim,
near Celestún
most popular bar on the able bar-restaurant (see This remarkable “eco-
beach, Buho’s, attached. p94), and the uncrowded retreat” stands between
There’s a main building beach is exquisite. d Map coconut groves and a
with rooms or cabaña Q4 • (984) 875 1051 • www. remote beach north of
bungalows; some are paamul.com • $$$$ Celestún and is best
on the small side, but accessed by 4-wheel
they’re all attractive.
Health treatments and & Genesis
Ek-Balam
Retreat, drive. The cabins have
lovely beach terraces.
massages are a specialty. A beautiful eco-lodge, Nature and archeological
d Map S1 • Av Carlos Genesis is a lush garden tours are a specialty.
Lazo 1 • (998) 877 0179 set around a bio-filtered d Map A2 • (988) 916 2100,
• www.cabanasdelmar.com pool, with rooms tucked (988) 916 2060 • www.
• $$$$$ away in the greenery. ecoparaiso.com • $$$$$
126 Cabañas are palm-roofed huts by the sea, sometimes luxurious,

sometimes basic; they are cooled by roof fans
TT-CY_126-127-Hotels1.indd 126 18/02/08

17/7/08 12:15:56
11:56:29 AM
145581 2:30 W2k-2
1 127 18/02/08 K40 00
K000 K202
Price Categories
For a standard, $ under $20
double room per $$ $20–$45
night (with breakfast $$$ $45–$80
if included), taxes $$$$ $80–$130
Streetsmart
Left Hotel Básico Right Hacienda Uayamón
Haciendas and Hip Hotels

! Maroma,
Punta Maroma $ Hacienda San
Antonio Chalanté,
bar, two pools, a spa, and a
fabulous restaurant, the
The Riviera’s most opulent near Izamal Casa de Piedra (see pp70–
retreat is frequented by The Yucatán’s restored 71). d Map C2 • Xcanatún,
celebrities attracted to its hacienda-hotels are mostly 12 km north of Mérida
80 hectares (200 acres) in the luxury bracket, but • (999) 941 0213 • www.
of lush jungle and vast this charming estate xcanatun.com • $$$$$
stretch of private beach. gives you the chance to
Rooms are truly vast, and
there’s a superb pool
sample local country life
for much less. d Map D2 * Hacienda Temozón,
near Uxmal
and a refined restaurant. • (999) 132 7411 • www. The most luxurious place
Honeymooners and haciendachalante.com to stay near Uxmal is
beauty-therapy addicts • $$$ provided by this Plan
are well catered for. Group hacienda, 45 km
d Map R4 • (998) 872 8200 Hacienda San (27 miles) north of the
• www.maroma.net • $$$$$ % José Cholul, ruins. The 17th-century
near Mérida main house, terrace res-
@ Hotel Básico,
Playa del Carmen
A 17th-century estate
30 km (18 miles) east of
taurant, and pool are
spectacular. d Map C4
The pinnacle of Playa Mérida, one of several • (999) 923 8089 • www.
style, the rooms in Básico aristocratic haciendas grupoplan.com • $$$$$
have plush beds and floor- that have been converted
to-ceiling windows. Design
details are fun and func-
by the Plan Group. Rooms
are spacious, with Colonial- ( Hacienda Santa
Rosa, near Mérida
tional, from pink neon wall style furniture. d Map C2 In an area unknown to
lights to the in-room • (999) 923 8089 • www. most visitors just west of
Polaroid camera. The grupoplan.com • $$$$$ the Mérida–Campeche
rooftop pool offers great road is another Plan haci-
views, and the seafood
restaurant is excellent. ^ Hacienda
Campeche,
Puerta enda, with 11 rooms and
suites. The lofty, Colonial-
d Av 5, at Calle 10 • (984) Campeche style rooms are lovely,
879 4448 • www. A selection of 17th- some with their own gar-
hotelbasico.com • $$$$$ century houses have dens. The restaurant, bars
been restored to become (in an old chapel), and pool
£ Acanto Hotel
& Suites,
the most original hotel in
the area. Rooms and
are to match. d Map C2
• (999) 923 8089 • www.
Playa del Carmen suites have satellite TV, grupoplan.com • $$$$$
Those looking for quality, and the accommodation
privacy, and style can
enjoy an exotic and
boasts a restaurant,
lounge bar, and pool. ) Hacienda Uaya-
món, Campeche
environmentally friendly d Map A5 • C/59, No.71 The most isolated of the
stay at this luxurious • (999) 923 8089 • www. Plan haciendas, on an old
hotel. Each villa is grupoplan.com • $$$$$ henequen plantation (for
resplendent in artistic ropemaking). The conver-
decor, and fastidious
attention is paid to the & Hacienda Xcana-
tún, near Mérida
sion has been done with
style, and the pool – in a
minutest detail. This 18th-century ruined, roofless building
d Map Q4 • C/16, between hacienda offers 18 suites, – is astonishing.
Av 1 and Av 5 • (984) 873 each with a terrace and d Map A5 • (999) 923 8089
1252 • www.acantohotels. Jacuzzi, set in luxuriant • www.grupoplan.com
com• $$$$$ gardens. There’s a terrace • $$$$$
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit 127

cards, have en-suite bathrooms, and air conditioning
TT-CY_126-127-Hotels1.indd 127 18/02/08

17/7/08 12:15:58
11:56:32 AM
Streetsmart
Left Presidente Intercontinental Center Casa de los Sueños Right Hacienda Chichén
Luxury Hotels
! Ritz Carlton,
Cancún
Isla Mujeres. Though just
a few minutes’ walk from
of the island’s longest-
established hotels. It
Top of the scale for sheer the center of town, the enjoys a superb location
luxury in Cancún, the Ritz hotel is utterly quiet. with its own beach and
Carlton looks like the big- Furnished with four- marina. Diving, snorkeling,
gest Italian Renaissance poster beds, the nine and fishing trips can be
palace ever built. All 365 suites overlook the arranged. d Map R5 •
rooms have ocean views, Caribbean. The hotel also Carretera a Chankanaab, km
balconies, or terraces, and has a long pool and 6.5 • (987) 872 9500 • www.
there’s a private beach and outdoor “living room” intercontinental.com • $$$$$
five restaurants. d Map bar. d Playa Norte • (998)
L5 • Blvd Kukulcán, km 14
• (998) 881 0808 • www.
877 1039 • www.
hotelsecreto.com • $$$$$ * Hacienda Chichén,
Chichén Itzá
ritzcarlton.com • $$$$$ Set in an old colonial
JW Marriott, % Villa Rolandi,

Isla Mujeres
hacienda next to the
ruins of Chichén Itzá.
@ Cancún Modest-sized hotel on the Most of the airy rooms
The newest big hotel in western side of Isla’s are in bungalows used by
Cancún is next door to Laguna Macax, with its archeologists in the 1920s
the same company’s own beach and boat land- and have a faded charm.
slightly older Casa Magna. ing stage, and superb d Map E3 • (985) 851 0046
Expect state-of-the-art views across to Cancún. • www.haciendachichen.
facilities, from the lavish No children under 13 are com • $$$$$
health spa to the multitude admitted – honeymoons
of electronic accessories
in the rooms. d Map K/L5
are a specialty. Each bal-
cony has a Jacuzzi. d Map ( Fiesta
Mérida
Americana,
• Blvd Kukulcán, km 14.5 L1/2 • Fraccionamiento Lagu- Mérida’s premiere hotel

• (998) 848 9600 U.S. & na Mar • (998) 877 0700 • is modern but built in an
Canada 1 800 228 9290 www.villarolandi.com • $$$$$ ornate French-mansion
• www.marriotthotels.com style, with a spectacular
• $$$$$
^ Casa de los Sue-
ños, Isla Mujeres
stained-glass atrium.
Rooms are spacious and
Fiesta Americana A secluded lodge toward well-equipped. d Map C2
£ Grand Coral the southern end of Isla • Paseo de Montejo 451
Beach, Cancún Mujeres. Its eight • (999) 942 1111 • www.
With cascades of green- spacious rooms, pool, fiestamericana.com • $$$$$
ery from its many balcon- and oceanside terrace
ies, the awesomely huge
Coral Beach has 602 rooms
are of contemporary
Mexican style: stunning ) Hacienda Uxmal
This big hotel near
and a thick catalogue of to look at and supremely the Uxmal ruins was built
facilities, including tennis comfortable. d Map L2 • in the 1950s and has a
courts and its own jogging Carretera Garrafón • (998) gracious style extending
track. d Map L4 • Blvd 877 0651 or (01800) 505 through airy, colonial-
Kukulcán, km 9.5 • (998) 0252 • www.casadelos style patios. The spacious,
881 3200 • www.fiesta suenosresort.com • $$$$$ cool rooms have charac-
americana.com • $$$$$ terful wooden furniture
& Presidente Intercon- and verandas, and the
$ Hotel Secreto,
Isla Mujeres
tinental, Cozumel
Big for Cozumel but small-
service is very charming.
d Map C4 • (998) 887
This small hotel is hidden ish by Cancún standards 2450 • www.mayaland.
away on the far side of (253 rooms), this is one com • $$$$$
128 Note: Nearly all the luxury hotels in Cancún offer heavily discounted
short-break packages through agents abroad, especially in the U.S.
TT-CY_128-129-Hotels2.indd 128 12/1/06 1:41:24

17/7/08 1:13:44 AM
PM
Price Categories
For a standard, $ under US$20
double room per $$ US$20–$45
night (with breakfast $$$ US$45–$80
if included), taxes $$$$ US$80–$130
and extra charges. $$$$$ over US$130
Streetsmart
Reef Resort
Resort Hotels
! Gran Oasis, Cancún
With 1,316 rooms,
modern architecture.
Guests can go snorkeling * Barceló Maya
Beach Resort,
everything about this at the Puerto Morelos Puerto Aventuras
hotel-resort is on a grand National Reef Park in Another giant, split into
scale. Three giant pyra- front of the hotel. d Blvd two: the Barceló Maya
mids make up the main El Cid Unidad 15, Puerto Beach (612 rooms) and
buildings; there are eight Morelos • (998) 872 8999 the Barceló Maya Garden
restaurants, 13 bars, the • www.elcid.com • $$$$$ next door (408 rooms).
Up & Down nightclub, They share over 2 km
and the pool is one of
the biggest in Latin Ameri- % Reef Resort,
Playacar
(1.5 miles) of beach and
offer a lot on-site for the
ca. A big range of water- A good deal cheaper than all-inclusive rates.
sports and theme parties most places offering an Highlights include a
complete the picture. all-meals-included plan. nightclub under a giant
d Map K5 • Blvd Kukulcán, Rooms and food are rela- palapa plant and a
km 15.5 • (998) 885 0867 tively basic, but it has a luxurious beachside buf-
• www.oasishoteles.com great beach location and fet. d Map Q5 • (984) 875
• $$$$$ a fine pool. Its low prices 1500 • www.barcelo.com
and simple style have • $$$$$
@ Club Med Cancún won it many fans. d Map
Opened in the early
days of Cancún, this spa-
H3 & Q4 • (984) 873 4120
• www.thereefresorts.com ( Secrets Capri
Riviera Cancun,
cious site has the typical • $$$$$ Playa del Carmen
Club-Med range of sports Only a few minutes north
facilities – enough even Royal Hideaway, of Playa del Carmen, this
when the 456 rooms fill ^ Playa del Carmen adults-only, all-inclusive
up – and youth-oriented This all-inclusive resort resort still feels secluded.
entertainment including a prides itself on its food, The hotel has excellent à
techno disco. d Map K6 with a choice of gourmet la carte restaurants and a
• Punta Nizuc, Blvd Kukulcán, Spanish, Asian, and beautiful beach. d
km 20 • (998) 881 8200 • Italian restaurants. The Carretera Federal 370, km
www.clubmed.com • $$$$$ rooms come with ceiling 299 • (998) 873 4880 •
fans, wicker furniture, www.secretsresorts.com/
£ Moon Palace
Golf and Resort,
and wood porches.
d Lote 6, Playacar • (984)
capri • $$$$$
near Cancún
The biggest all-inclusive
873 4500 • www.royalhide
away.com • $$$$$ ) Akumal Beach
Resort, Akumal
resort of all, with 2,131 Medium-sized resort
beach-house-style rooms.
It offers every possible & Iberostar Cozumel
The 300-room Ibero-
with an exquisite, large
pool that snakes beside
activity and 14 restaurants star, opened in 1999, is some of the rooms. It’s
– all crowded. d Map R3 well located for snorkeling only a short walk from
• (998) 881 6000 • www. and diving in the south- Akumal village along
palaceresorts.com • $$$$$ west corner of the island, the beach, so those
near Punta Francesa, and who appreciate the
$ Marina and Spa
El Cid Riviera
faces an especially fine
beach. Like the Tucán, it
convenience of all-
inclusives can also wander
Maya, Puerto Morelos offers a big range of acti- out whenever they wish.
Located right on the vities. d Map R6 • (987) d Map P5 • (984) 875 7500
ocean, this new hotel 872 9900 • www.iberostar • www.akumalbeachresort.
combines colonial and caribe.com • $$$$$ com • $$$$$
Note: All resort hotels listed here have all-inclusive rates, covering 129
some or all meals, drinks, and activities such as snorkeling and diving
TT-CY_128-129-Hotels2.indd 129 12/1/06 1:41:25

17/7/08 1:13:45 AM
PM
Streetsmart
Left Caribe Internacional Center Hotel Flamingo Right Piedra Escondida
Mid-Range Hotels on the Riviera

! Plaza
Cancún
Caribe,
$ Hotel
Holbox
Faro Viejo, friendly home from home.
The rooms have been
This big hotel’s main Holbox’s best hotel is two going a few years but are
selling point is that it’s blocks away from the main comfortable and pretty,
right opposite the bus street. The Mexican-style and there’s a tiny pool
station in Ciudad Cancún rooms are a real pleasure: and a rooftop bar that’s a
and so is always popular. doubles and twins upstairs great place for meeting
Despite being in such a have balconies, suites people. d Map Q4 • Av 30,
traffic-heavy area, it’s sur- below have terraces and by C/4 • (984) 873 0315 •
prisingly peaceful inside, kitchenettes. The French- www.momshotel.com • $$$
with pretty gardens, a Mexican owners are very
nice pool, and attractively
furnished rooms. d Map
welcoming, and there’s a
great restaurant. d Map * Aquatech – Villas
de Rosa, Akumal
J3 • Av Tulum No.19, corner G1 • C/Juárez, on the beach Owners Nancy and Tony
of Av Uxmal • (998) 884 • (984) 875 2217 • www.faro de Rosa are the foremost
1377 • www.hotelplaza viejoholbox.com.mx • $$$$ cave-diving specialists on
caribe.com • $$$$ the Riviera, and many of
% Hotel Flamingo, their guests dive. The
@ Caribe Interna
cional, Cancún
Cozumel
Began as a dive hotel
place is also well equipped
for families. d Map P5
This 80-room hotel is in and offers a range of • Km 115, Carrt. Puerto
one of the liveliest parts packages for divers. Even Aventuras–Akuma • (984)
of Ciudad Cancún, near if you’re not a scuba nut, 875 9020 • www.cenotes.
the market and next to it’s a comfortable place, com • $$$$
Av Yaxchilán’s “restaurant with well-cared-for rooms
row.” Rooms are modern,
simple, spacious, and
and a bar and rooftop
terrace-lounge. d Map R5 ( Tankah Dive Inn
This laid-back hotel on
bright, and there’s a good • San Miguel de Cozumel the Riviera has only a few
pool, making this great • (987) 872 1264 • www. rooms, but they’re all
value in sometimes over- hotelflamingo.com • $$$$ comfortable and full of
priced Cancún. d Map J3 character. Diving is a big
• Av Yaxchilán 36–7 • (998)
884 3999 • www.caribe ^ Casa Tucán, Playa
del Carmen
attraction, of course, but
it’s ok just to sit on the
internacional.com • $$$ Seems small from the beach and sample the
street, but inside is a maze fine cuisine. d Map P6
# Villa Kiin,
Isla Mujeres
of patios, gardens, and
spiral staircases, leading
• Bahía Tankah No.16, Tulum
• (984) 100 0703 • www.
All the rooms are different to a leaf-shaded pool. tankah.com • $$$$$
– some are on the beach, Rooms are cosy and color-
some are like separate
little beach-houses – but
ful. The friendly German
owners offer packages ) Piedra
Tulum
Escondida,
all are comfortable and with the Yucatek Divers Nine rooms, in two-story
fitted with Mexican textiles. school (see p124). d Map cabaña-style beach huts,
It’s in a delightful location, Q4 • C/4, between Av 10 all with good showers and
facing the placid Playa and Av 15 • (984) 873 0283 entrancing views. The res-
Secreto lagoon, and there’s • www.casatucan.de • $$$ taurant serves a mix of
snorkel gear for guests’ Italian and Mexican food.
use. d Map L1 • C/Zazil-Ha
No.129, Playa Norte • (998) & Mom’s Hotel,
Playa del Carmen
d Map P6 • Km 3.5 Tulum
Ruinas, Boca Paila Rd • (984)
877 0045 • www.villakiin. Texan Ricco Merkle’s 130 9932 • www.piedra
com.mx • $$$$$ long-running hotel is a escondida.com • $$$$$
130 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit

TT-CY_130-131-Hotels3.indd 130 12/1/06 2:27:59

17/7/08 1:09:44 PM
Price Categories
For a standard, $ under US$20
double room per $$ US$20–$45
night (with breakfast $$$ US$45–$80
if included), taxes, $$$$ US$80–$130
and extra charges. $$$$$ over US$130
Streetsmart
Ecotel Quinta Regia
Mid-Range Hotels Elsewhere

! Ecotel Quinta
Regia, Valladolid
arrival. The water-side
restaurant is a great
surprisingly modern and
a great bargain. d Map C2
Built in a Neo-Colonial place to lounge, and all • C/63 No. 464, between
style, this hotel combines the spacious rooms have C/52 and C/54 • (999) 928
a colorful Mexican look a sitting area. d Map E1 • 5650 • www.doloresalba.
with modern facilities. C/9, between C/14 and C/16 com • $$$
Lush gardens are over- • (986) 862 2027 • $$
looked by the best rooms.
The pool is secluded, and La Misión de Fray * Casa Hamaca,
Valladolid
the restaurant makes use % Diego, Mérida This large guesthouse
of garden produce (see This grand 17th-century with its garden of trees
p103). d Map E3 • C/40 house has been has a countryside feel.
No. 160A, between C/27 expensively converted It offers not just
and C/29 • (985) 856 3476 with a mix of antiques comfortable beds, but
• www.ecotelquintaregia. and all-modern bathrooms, also full spa services and
com.mx • $$$ a pool and other services. healthy breakfasts. d
Some rooms have a real Parque San Juan, C/49 No.
@ Elqués,
Mesón del Mar
Valladolid
Spanish-mansion air; others
are less exciting, and
202-A at C/40 • (985) 856
5287 • www.casahamaca.
Valladolid’s classic hotel prices vary accordingly. com • $$$
occupies one of its finest d Map C2 • C/61 No. 524,
old colonial houses, with between C/64 and C/66 Club MedVillas
rooms set around several • (999) 924 1111 or (01800) ( Arqueológicas,
flower-filled, elegant patios. 866 392935(from the U.S. Uxmal
There’s a great restaurant and Canada) • www.la The Villas Arqueológicas
(see p103) and a pool. d misiondefraydiego.com are a small chain of hotels
Map E3 • C/39 No. 203, on • $$$$ at some of the ancient
Parque Principal • (985) 856 Mayan sites, all built in
2073 • www.elmesondel
marques.com • $$$ ^ Hotel
Mérida
Marionetas, old-Mexican, hacienda
style, with charming
Once a puppet theatre, rooms and exuberant
# Hotel Dolores
Alba, Chichén Itzá
the colonial building that
forms the core of this
gardens. The Uxmal
branch is exceptional
The best-value place to hotel has been beautifully value. d Map C4 • (997)
stay near Chichén, this restored with rooms 976 2040 • www.clubmed.
roadside hotel has bright painted in pastel shades. com • $$$$
rooms, a restaurant, and The hotel has a large pool
two pools. The owners
also run a hotel in Mérida
and serves delicious
breakfasts. d C/49 No.516, ) Hotel Baluartes,
Campeche
(entry 7), through which between C/62 & C/64 • Campeche has a limited
bookings can be made. (999) 928 3377 • www. selection of hotels. This
d Map E3 • Hwy 180, 3 km hotelmarionetas.com • $$$$ lofty 1970s building on the
east of Chichén Itzá • (985) seafront is more comfort-
858 1555 • www.dolores
alba.com • $$$ & Hotel Dolores
Alba, Mérida
able than most. Be sure
to get a room with sea
One of Mérida’s most view, to catch the superb
$ Hotel San Felipe,
San Felipe
popular hotels, with a
relaxed atmosphere.
sunsets over the Gulf of
Mexico. d Map A5 • Av
Staying near Río Lagartos Beyond an elderly façade, 16 de Septiembre 128
used to be a problem, so the renovated rooms set • (981) 816 3911 • www.
this hotel is a welcome around the pool are baluartes.com.mx • $$$$
Note: Though breakfast is not generally included in room prices, 131

it is becoming a more common feature of Yucatán hotels
TT-CY_130-131-Hotels3.indd 131 12/1/06 2:28:01

17/7/08 1:09:45 PM
Streetsmart
Left Tamarindo Center Casa San Juan Right Casa Mexilio
Guesthouses and B&Bs

! Amigo’s
Cozumel
B&B,
$ Flycatcher
Santa Elena
Inn, traditional furniture and
antiques, and the Mexican-
Three cabaña-style rooms, This pretty bed & American owners have
all with kitchenettes, breakfast is decorated added original touches,
fridges, and terraces, set with locally made including a cave-like pool
around a pool and lovely furniture and wall hangings. and two bars, one on the
garden. It’s especially The owners are very roof. d Map C2 • C/68 No.
suited to families: break- knowledgeable about 495, between C/59 & C/57
fasts (included) are served the nearby archaeological • (999) 928 2505 • www.
in a garden palapa (palm- sites. d Calle 20, off Hwy- casamexilio.com • $$$
roofed gazebo). d Map 261 • (997) 102 0865
R5 • C/7 sur No.571A,
San Miguel de Cozumel
• www.flycatcherinn.com
• $$ * Casa San Juan,
Mérida
• (987) 872 3868 • www. Once the home of an old
bacalar.net • $$$$
% Posada Sirena,
Punta Allen
Mérida family, this 19th-
century house has been
@ Tamarindo,
Cozumel
Punta Allen is about the
most beachcomberish
beautifully restored with
seven charming, lofty-
A lot of energy and style destination imaginable, ceilinged rooms. d Map C2
have been put into the and this guest house hits • C/62 No. 545, between C/69
house and its sheltered the appropriate note, with & C/71 • (999) 923 6823
garden by its Mexican- a stay-as-long-as-you-want • www.casasanjuan.com
French owners. Each of feel from owner Serena, • No air con in some rooms
the five pretty rooms has a real character. Her two • $$$
its own character, there’s cabins have kitchens and
an open kitchen and
ample breakfasts, and
the essential hammocks.
She can arrange fishing ( Luz en Yucatán,
Mérida
they have many happy and diving. d Map G5 • Fax Once part of a convent,
clients. They also run (984) 877 8521 • www.casa this house is now an
Palapas Amaranto nearby, sirena.com • $$ urban retreat with modern
with self-contained suites. apartments and small pool,
d Map R5 • Rojo Gomez
and Lázaro Cárdenas • (987) ^ Macanché, Izamal
Izamal is a tranquil
at bargain prices. Health
therapies can be arranged.
872 3614 • $$$ town in any case, but the d Map C2 • C/55 No. 499,
walled garden that contains between C/58 & C/60
# Amar Inn,
Puerto Morelos
this B&B, is especially
soothing. Little bungalows
• (999) 924 0035 • www.
luzenyucatán.com • $$$
This sea-front bed & are dotted about the
breakfast has lovely
views and offers a rustic
garden, each imaginatively
decorated; one has a ) Medio
Mérida
Mundo,
atmosphere. The decor is kitchen. d Map D2 • C/22 Located in the heart of

traditional and each room No. 305, between C/33 & town, this colonial house is
is painted a different C/35 • (988) 954 0287 • uniquely decorated. The
color. Arrangements can www.macanche.com • $$$ ten rooms are simply
be made for tours to furnished and face the
nearby tourist spots. The
right place for those & Casa Mexilio,
Mérida
central patio. Every room
is en suite. d Map C2 •
looking for something This is a special guest- C/55 No.533 • (999) 924
typical of the region. d house in a fine old build- 5472 • www.hotelmedio
Map R3 • Av Rojo Gómez ing. The hallways and mundo.com • No air con
• (998) 871 0026 • $$$ eight rooms are full of in some rooms • $$$$
132 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit

TT-CY_132-133-Hotels4.indd 132 12/1/06 12:48:48

18/7/08 1:06:04 PM
AM
Price Categories
For a standard, $ under US-$20
double room per $$ US$20-$45
night (with breakfast $$$ US$45-$80
if included), taxes, $$$$ US$80-$130
and extra charges. $$$$$ over US-$130
Streetsmart
Left Posada Amor Right Cabañas Copal
Budget Accommodation
! The Weary
Traveler, Cancún
d Map R3 • On the plaza
• (998) 871 0033 • No air
between C/42 and C/44
• (985) 856 2267 • www.
Open since 2000, this is con in some rooms • www. hostels.com.mx • $
affiliated to the Mexican geocities/posadaamor
hostel association AMAJ.
It has 64 dorm-style
• $$$
* Nómadas
Mérida
Hostel,
beds. Bright and clean,

good shared showers, % Cabañas La Ruina,
Playa del Carmen
Challenging the cheap
hotels of Mérida for
and an open kitchen. A remarkable survivor value, this hostel has
d Map J3 • C/Palmeras 30, from Playa’s hippy days, bright, airy dorm rooms
off Av Uxmal • (998) 887 gripping on to its great and a few doubles.
0191 • www.mexico beach location in the face There’s also an open
hostels.com.mx • $$ of glossier developments. kitchen, a lounge space,
Inside two garden enclo- and cheap Internet
@ Hotel Carmelina,
Isla Mujeres
sures you have a choice
between simple cabañas,
access. d Map C2 • C/62
No. 433, by C/51 • (999)
The laid-back Carmelina with or without showers, 924 5223 • www.hostels.
has been welcoming bud- or hammock space under com • $$
get travelers for years. a big, mixed-sex palapa.
Arranged around a big
patio, rooms are simple
d Map Q4 • C/2, between
Av 5 & the beach • No air ( Hotel Plaza, Ticul
Pleasantly easygoing
but cheerful. All have con or en-suite • (984) 873 hotel on Ticul’s main
showers, and some even 0405 • $$$ square. Rooms are spa-
air con. d Map L1 • Isla cious and comfortable,
Town, between Av Abasolo
and Av Madero • (998) 877 ^ Cabañas
Tulum
Copal, with good bathrooms,
fans or air con, and TVs;
0006 • No air con in some A well-run cabaña cluster get one overlooking the
rooms • $$ with 32 cabins around a square. d Map C4 • C/23
palm grove by the beach. No.202, by the plaza •
# Hotel Pepita,
Cozumel
A choice of dorms, double,
or singles (with or without
(997) 972 0484 • www.
hotelplazayucatan.com • $$
Friendly and helpful own- showers), and family-sized
ers make the difference
in this big, popular hotel.
huts. Some have a sea
view. It has a restaurant ) Bungalows
near Uxmal
Sacbé,
Rooms are well cared for and two bars, and a The best budget accom-
and have such extras as relaxed feel. d Map P6 modation really near to
air con and small fridges, • Beach Rd, km 3.5 • (984) Uxmal is provided at
and complimentary coffee 871 2750 • www.cabanas this very welcoming
is provided. d Map R5 copal.com • $$$ site just south of the
• San Miguel de Cozumel village of Santa Elena.
• (987) 872 0098 • $$
& Albergue La Can
delaria, Valladolid
The Mexican-French
couple who live here
$ Posada Amor,
Puerto Morelos
Affiliated to AMAJ, this
newish hostel in a pretty,
offer camping space
(with good showers and
Featuring Puerto old house has excellent, solar power), dorm beds,
Morelos’ best low-priced bright dorm rooms, good and very pretty doubles,
rooms, Posada Amor has shared bathrooms, a with showers, in cabins.
a friendly feel and lounge and patio area, Meals, equally a bargain,
popular restaurant. The free coffee, and cheap are also available. d Map
rooms come in different Internet access. d Map C4 • near Santa Elena •
shapes and sizes. E3 • C/35 No.201F, (985) 858 1281 • $$
Note: Most hostels require payment in cash 133
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18/7/08 1:06:05 PM
AM
General Index
Page numbers in bold B Cabañas La Ruina,
type refer to main Bajo, El, island 100 Playa del Carmen 133
entries. Balankanché caves 53, 98 Cabañas María del Mar,
ball courts 25, Uxmal 28 Isla Mujeres 126
Index
A Baluarte de Santiago, Cabañas Paamul 94, 126

Acabar nightclub, Tulum 93 Campeche 35 Café Cito, El,
Acamaya 78 banking 118 Isla Mujeres 82
Acanceh 40, 108 Bar La Conchita, El Cuyo 102 Café del Museo, Cozumel 94
Acanto Hotel & Suites, Barceló Maya resort, Calakmul 34
Playa del Carmen 127 Puerto Aventuras 129 Calcehtok caves 53
activities 56–7 bargaining 122 Caleta, La, 14
air travel barracudas 47 Calotmul 100
airlines 115 bars 82 Camino Real hotel 9
Básico hotel, Playa del Campeche 34–5, 41, 43, 70,
airports 115
Carmen 127 107
discounted flights 123
Bazar de Artesanías, cathedral 34, 43
internal flights 116
Mérida 109 Petenes 49, 108
Aké ruins 100 serenatas campechanas 63
beaches 8, 11, 13, 44–5,
Aktun-Chen 79, 88, 91 Camping Sacbé,
cave 90 beer 124 near Uxmal 133
nature park 51 begging 119 Cancún 8–9, 70, 74–5, 77
Aktun-Ha cenote 19, 90 Ben-Ha cenote 20 Avenida Tulum 9
Akumal 45, 54, 88 bicycles 101, 116 beaches 8, 44
Beach Resort 129 Birds Quadrangle, bullfights 62
reef 47, 59 Uxmal 30 carnival 64
village beach 91 birds 21 charrerías 63
Albergue La Candelaria, Celestún 49 fishing 57
Valladolid 133 Isla Contoy 49 jazz festival 65
Playacar aviary 78 nightlife 8
All Saints’ Day 65
Río Lagartos 49 reef 46
Almendros restaurant,
Uaymitún 49 shopping 9
Los, Ticul 71, 107, 111
see also flamingos traveling from airport to
Amar Inn, Puerto city 115
Blue Lagoon, Xcaret 14
Morelos 132 Blue Parrot bar-nightclub, traveling to other resorts
Amaro restaurant, Playa del Carmen 81 115
Mérida 111 Boca Paila Camps, Tulum Cancún and the North 74–83
ambulance services 119 126 beaches 79
Amigo’s B&B, Cozumel Boca Paila Fishing Lodge 20 best of the rest 78
132 Bocas de Dzilam mangroves itinerary 77
ancient Mexico 49, 100 map 74
see Mayan ruins, history see also mangroves nightclubs 81
angelfish 47 Brasas bar-restaurant, Las, places to drink 82
Mérida 110 places to eat 83
Aqua World, Cancún 50
breakfasts and juices 71 places to shop 80
Aquatech – Villas de Rosa,
budget accommodation 133 Candelaria, La, Valladolid 64
Akumal 130
budget travel & tips 123 cantinas (bars) 124
arriving in the Yucatán 115
Buho’s bar, Isla Mujeres 82 Capricho nightclub,
Arte Maya ceramics store, Bulldog nightclub, Cancún Puerto Aventuras 93
Ticul 109 60, 81 Captain Hook’s
Ascensión Bay 21 bullfights 62 Pirate Night nightclub,
attractions for children 58–9 bureaux de change 118 Cancún 81
Avenida Hidalgo, Isla buses 116 car rental 116, 123
Mujeres town 80 Caracol handicraft store,
Avenida Tulum, Cancún 9 C Playa del Carmen 80
Azúcar nightclub, cabaña hotels 126 Caribe Internacional hotel,
Cancún 62, 81 Cabañas Copal, Tulum 133 Cancún 130
134
TT-CY_134-140-Index.indd 134 17/7/08 2:35:31 PM

Carlos ’n’ Charlie’s nightclub, Central Heartland (cont.) Coral Negro bazaar,
Cozumel 61, 93 itinerary 99 Cancún 80
carnival 64 map 96 Cozumel 10–11, 70, 87
carvings 24 places to eat 103 airport 115
Casa del Arte Mexicano, La, shops, markets, tours 101 beaches 11, 45
handicraft store, Cancún ceramics 65 carnival 64
Index
80 Cetli restaurant, Tulum 95 ferries 116
Casa de Artesanías Tukulná, chakah bush 21 fishing 57
Campeche 109 Chaya’s Natural Café, hotels 10
Casa de Artesanías, Ek-Balam 103 reefs 11, 87
Mérida 109 charrerías 63 San Miguel Arcángel
Casa del Agua restaurant, La, chechen tree 21 fiesta 65
Playa del Carmen 83 Chelem 108 Cozumel and the South
Casa de los Sueños hotel, Chen Río restaurant, 86–95
Isla Mujeres 128 Cozumel 70, 95 beaches 91
Casa Denis restaurant, Chen Río beach, best of the rest 90
Cozumel 95 Cozumel 11, 91 itinerary 89
Casa Hamaca guesthouse, Chichén Itzá 22–4, 98 map 86
carvings 24 nightspots 93
Valladolid 131
equinoxes 64 places to drink 94
Casa Mexilio guesthouse,
sound and light shows 63 places to eat 95
Mérida 132
childrens’ activities 58–9 places to shop 92
Casa de Piedra restaurant,
Chispa bar-restaurant, La, crafts see traditional crafts
Xcanatún 111
Valladolid 102 credit cards 118
Casa San Juan B&B,
Chunzubul Cristo de las Ampollas,
Mérida 132
beach 13, 79 Mérida 65
Casa Seis, Campeche 34
reef 46 Crococún crocodile park
Casa Tucán hotel,
churches 42–3 58, 78
Playa del Carmen 130
Iglesia de Jesús, Mérida 42 crocodiles 21
Casa Vieja bar-restaurant,
Mérida cathedral 42 Cueva del Pirata, La,
Campeche 110
cigars 122 restaurant, Isla Holbox 83
Castillo de Kukulcán 22 Cinco Soles handicraft store, Cumbanchero, El, bar,
Castillo, El, Tulum 18 Los, Cozumel 92 Mérida 110
Catherwood, Frederick Club Med resort, currency 114, 115, 118, 123
(artist) 107 Cancún 129 customs regulations 114,
cave diving Club Med-Villas 115
Akumal 130 Arqueológicas, Uxmal 131 Cuyo, El, 55, 100
Dos Ojos Cenote Cobá 89 Cuzan Guest House,
(Hidden Worlds) 51 Cocay restaurant, La Punta Allen 126
Tulum 47 Cozumel 95 cycling 56
caves cocinas económicas (food
Balankanché 53 counters), Valladolid 103 D
Calcehtok 53 Coco Bongo nightclub, Dady’O nightclub,
Loltún 53, 106 Cancún 60, 81 Cancún 60, 81
see also cave diving Coctelería Las Brisas Day of the Dead 65
Celestún 49, 55, 105 restaurant, Playa del Diablito Cha Cha Cha
beaches 45 Carmen 83 restaurant, Playa del
cenote Dzitnup 52, 97 Codz Poop, Kabah 31 Carmen 61
cenote Kantun-Chi 52 colectivos (buses) 116 dinner cruises, Cancún 60
cenote Samula 52 colonial towns 40–41 disabled
cenote Xlacah, combis (minibuses) 116 see tips for the disabled
Dzibilchaltún 53 communications 118 discount coupons 123
cenotes and caves 19, 52–3 Conoco beach 91 dishes of the Yucatán 68–9
Western Yucatán 108 consulates 119 see also snacks, eating
Central Heartland 96–103 coral 47 tips, restaurants
best of the rest 100 see also diving, fan coral, diving
drinking & entertainment eco-parks and the disabled 121
spots 102 and theme parks discounts 123
135

diving (cont.) F Hacienda Chichén,
reefs 130, 46–7 fan corals 47 Chichén Itzá 128
dolphins Feast of Three Kings, hacienda hotels 55, 127, 128
Dolphin Discovery, Tizimín 64 Hacienda Mundaca,
Isla Mujeres 17, 50 ferries 115, 116 Isla Mujeres 17
Xcaret dolphin pools 14 and the disabled 121 Hacienda Ochil,
Index
Don Armando’s cabañas 19 from Florida 115 near Mérida 111

Don Cafeto restaurant, festivals 64–5 Hacienda Puerta Campeche,
Tulum 95 Fiesta Americana Grand Campeche 127
Dos Barriles (Restaurante Coral Beach hotel, Hacienda San Antonio
Moctezuma) restaurant, Cancún 128 Chalanté, near Izamal 127
Chicxulub Puerto 102 Fiesta Americana hotel, Hacienda San José Cholul,
Dos Ojos Cenote Mérida 128 near Mérida 111, 127
and Hidden Worlds fishing 56, 57, 124 Hacienda Santa Rosa,
19, 51, 52, 90 flamingos 49, 99 near Mérida 127
drinking 123, 125 tours, Río lagartos 101 Hacienda Temozón,
driving 116, 120 Flamingos bar-restaurant, near Uxmal 127
from the USA 115 Progreso 110 Hacienda Uayamón,
Dulcería y Sorbetería El Colón flights see air travel Campeche 127
ice-cream parlor, Fly bar, Playa del Carmen 82 Hacienda Uxmal, Uxmal 128
Mérida 110 Flycatcher Inn B&B, Santa Hamacas Aguacate store,
Elena 132 Mérida 109
Dzibichaltún 105
food see dishes of the hammocks 65, 122
equinoxes 64
Yucatán, eating tips, handicrafts market,
Dzitnup 40, 52
snacks Chichén Itzá 101
forests 108 handicrafts stores 122
E
Forum by the Sea shopping see also traditional crafts
eating tips 125
complex, Cancún 77, 80 Hard Rock Café, Cancún 82
see also dishes of the
fuel 116, 120 Hard Rock Café,
Yucatán, snacks,
Fuerte San José museum, Cozumel 61, 93, 94
restaurants
Campeche 35 Havana Blue bar, Cozumel
Eco-Paraíso Xixim
Fuerte San Miguel museum, 94
eco-retreat, near Celestún
Campeche 35 health
126
precautions and tips
eco-parks and theme parks
G 114, 119
50–51
Garrafón, El, 17 services 119
see also ecotourism
Genesis Retreat eco-lodge, Hecho a Mano folk art store,
Ecotel Quinta Regia (hotel), Izamal 101
Ek-Balam 126
Valladolid 131 getting around tips 116 henequén (sisal rope) 37
ecotourism 117, 123 gift stores 122 Hidden Worlds see Dos Ojos
see also eco-parks and see also traditional crafts Cenote and Hidden Worlds
theme parks golf 56, 116 hip hotels 127
Edén bar, El, Mérida 110 Governor’s Palace, Uxmal 29 history 36–7
Edzná ruins 35, 108 Gran Cenote 19, 52, 90 Holbox 55, 76, 79
Ek-Balam ruins 98 Gran Oasis hotel-resort, fishing 57
electricity 114 Cancún 129 Hotel Faro Viejo 130
El Manatí restaurant- Great Ball Court 22 horseback riding 56
nightclub, Cozumel 93 Great Pyramid, Uxmal 29 Hotel Baluartes,
El Mexicano restaurant, guayaberas (shirt-jackets) 65 Campeche 131
Valladolid 103 Guayaberas Jack clothing Hotel Carmelina,
El Príncipe Tutul-Xiu store, Mérida 109 Isla Mujeres 133
restaurant, Maní 111 guesthouses and B&Bs 132 Hotel Dolores Alba,
El Rey, Cancún 9, 78 Guido’s restaurant, Chichén Itzá 131
embroidery 65 Cozumel 95 Hotel Dolores Alba,
emergencies 119 Mérida 131
equinoxes 64 H Hotel Faro Viejo, Holbox 130
see also Chichén Itzá, Habichuela restaurant, La, Hotel Flamingo,
Dzibilchaltún Cancún 70, 83 Cozumel 130
136

Hotel María de la Luz, Izamal (cont.) magazines 117
Valladolid 102 market 101 mail 118
Hotel Pepita, Cozumel 133 market bars 102 Malecón, Campeche 35, 89
Hotel Plaza, Ticul 133 J Mambo Café nightclub,
hotels 126–31 Jane’s Sports and Sorts bar, Playa del Carmen 81
and disability 121 Puerto Aventuras 93 Mamita’s beach 13
Index
cabaña hotels 126 JC Capitán restaurant, Mamita’s Beach Club, Playa
hacienda hotels 127 Cancún 83 del Carmen 82
hip hotels 127 jewelry 65 Manchones reef,
luxury hotels 128 jewelry stores 122 Isla Mujeres 17, 46
mid-range hotels, jícaras (gourds) 65 see also diving reefs
Riviera 130 John Gray’s Place restaurant, mangroves 21, 108
mid-range hotels Playa del Carmen 71 Bocas de Dzilam 49, 100
elsewhere 131 John Lloyd Stephens Campeche Petenes
resort hotels 129 (traveler) 107 49, 108
see also guesthouses Jugos California juice bar, Maní monastery 41, 43
and B&Bs, budget Mérida 110 Manolo’s, Isla Mujeres 83
accommodation juices 71 maps 117
Hotel San Felipe, juice shops 124 Mar Caribe cabañas 19
San Felipe 99, 131 jungle tours 56 Marganzo restaurant,
Hotel Secreto, JW Marriott hotel, Campeche 71, 111
Isla Mujeres 128 Cancún 128 Mariachis 62
House of the Old Woman,
Marina El Cid, resort/spa,
Uxmal 29 K Riviera Maya 129
House of the Pigeons, Kabah 31, 106, 107 Marionetas hotel,
Uxmal 29
kayaking 56 Mérida 131
House of the Turtles,
Kelley’s bar, Cozumel 94 Marlin Azul, El, restaurant
Uxmal 28
Kinich Kakmó, Izamal 70 70, 111
huarache sandals 65
Kinich restaurant, Izamal 103 market bars, Izamal 102
hurricanes 120
Kukulcán see Chichén Itzá markets
Izamal 101
I
L Mérida 109
Iberostar resort,
Labná 31, 106, 107 Tizimín 101
Cozumel 129
Lafitte, Jean and Pierre 17 Maroma hotel,
Iglesia de Jesús, Mérida 42
Laguna Chankanaab, Punta Maroma 127
iguanas 59
Cozumel 11, 51, 58 Maya Chuy embroidery
Ikkil cenote 100
Laguna Nichupté 8 store, Mérida 109
immigration office 115
Laguna Yal-Ku, Akumal 59 Mayan gods and spirits 37
insect repellent 114
insurance 114 Lake Chunyaxché 20 Mayan huts, Uxmal 30
Inspiración Gallery, Cozumel La Zebra nightclub, Tulum Mayan Riviera 72–95
92 93 Mayan ruins
internet 118 live attractions 62–3 Aké 39
Isla Contoy wildlife reserve Loltún caves 53, 106 and the disabled 121
17, 48, 75 loncherías ball courts 25
Isla Mujeres 16–17, 75 (basic eateries) 124 Castillo, El 18
beaches 16, 44 Lonchería Fabiola Calakmul 34
fishing 57 (restaurant), Pisté 102 Chichén Itza 22–4, 38
ferries 116 Lord Chak, Uxmal 30, 31 Cobá 38
Garrafón, El 17 luxury hotels 128 Cozumel 11
Manchones reef 17 Luz en Yucatán B&B, Dzibilchaltún 38
town 16 Mérida 132 Edzná 35, 39
Isla shopping complex, La, Ek-Balam 38
Cancún 77, 80 M free Sundays 123
Ixchel 16 Macanché B&B, Kabah 31, 39
Izamal 40, 42, 70, 99 Izamal 132 Labná 39
Hecho a Mano folk art Madonna bar-restaurant, La, Mayapán 39, 108
store 101 Cancún 82 Meco, El 9, 39
137

Mayan ruins (cont.) Michoacán café, La de, Oscar y Lalo bar,
Muyil 21, 39 Valladolid 102 Punta Solimán 94
Oxkintok 39 mid-range hotels 130, 131 Oxcutzcab 41
Puuc cities 31 Miró T-Shirts, Cozumel 92 Oxtintok ruins 108
Rey, El 9, 39 Misión del Fray Diego hotel,
San Gervasio 11, 39 La, Mérida 131 P
Index
Sayil 39 Mixik Artesanías craft store, Paamul bay 90, 91

Sian Ka’an Tulum 92 packing 114
Lake Islands 21 Mom’s Hotel, painted birds 65
Tulum 18–19, 38 Playa del Carmen 130 Palacio del Gobernador,
Xaman-Ha 13 Monjas church, Las, Mérida 26
Xcambó 39 Mérida 43 Palancar reef, Cozumel 11, 46
Xel-Ha 19, 39 Monstermouth carvings, see also diving
Xlapak 39 Uxmal 30 Palapa restaurant, La,
see also history Moon Palace resort, Celestún 111
Mayan Village 14 Palapa del Lodge restaurant,
near Cancún 78, 129
Mayapán ruins 108 La, Uxmal 111
mosquitoes 120
Meco ruins, El, Palapas hotel, Las,
see also insect repellent
Cancún 9, 78 Playa del Carmen 126
Museo de Antropología,
Media Luna bay, Akumal 91 Palmeras bar, Las,
Mérida 27
medical clinics 119 Cozumel 89, 94
Museo de Antropología e
Medio Mundo, Mérida 132 Historia, Cancún 9, 77, 78 Panama hats 65, 122
Mejorada church, La, Museo de Cozumel 10 Pancho’s nightclub,
Mérida 42 Museums Mérida 61, 110
Mercado 23, Cancún 80 Fuerte San José, Papaya Playa hotel,
Mercado 28, Cancún 80, 83 Campeche 35 Tulum 12
Mérida en domingo 64 Fuerte San Miguel, Paraíso bar, El, Tulum 94
Mérida 26–7, 40, 71, 105, 107 Campeche 35 Paraíso reef,
airport 115 Museo de Antropología e Cozumel 11, 46
bullfights 62 Historia, Cancún 9, 77, 78 see also diving
carnival 64 Museo de Antropología, parasailing 56
car rental 123 Mérida 27 Parque Escultórico Punta
cathedral 42 Museo de Cozumel 10 Sur 17
charrerías 63 music Parque Garrafón,
Cristo de las Ampollas serenatas campechanas, Isla Mujeres 17, 50
fiesta 65 Campeche 63 Parque Nizuc water park,
market 109 serenatas yucatecas, Cancún 50
Mérida en domingo 64 Mérida 63 Parque Nizuc,
serenacas yucatecas 63 Sunday concerts, Cancún 9, 58, 78
Mesón del Marqués hotel Valladolid 102 Parque Principal,
and restaurant, El, Muyal symbols, Uxmal 30 Campeche 34
Valladolid 103, 131 Muyil ruins 21, 90 Parque Punta Sur,
Mestizas restaurant, Las, Cozumel 11, 48, 89
Pisté 99, 103 N Parque Santa Lucía,
Mexicanísimo clothing store, Neptuno nightclub, Mérida 27
Mérida 109 Cozumel 93 Parrilla restaurant, La,
Mexicano, El, restaurant, newspapers 117 Cancún 70
Valladolid 103 nightspots 60–61, 81 Parroquia café, La,
México Hostel, Nómadas Hostel, Campeche 34
Cancún 133 Mérida 133 parrot fish 47
Mexipass flight North Beach, Cozumel 10 Parrots of the Great
discounts 123 North Beach, Pyramid, Uxmal 30
see also air travel Tulum 91 passports 114
Mezcalito’s restaurant, Nunnery Quadrangle, Pat O’Brien’s,
Cozumel 94 Uxmal 28, 31 Cancún 81
Mezzanine nightspot, O Pelícanos restaurant, Los,
Tulum 93 ornaments 65 Puerto Morelos 70, 77, 83
138

personal safety 119 Puerta de Tierra, Restaurante Moctezuma
Pez Vela bar-restaurant, Campeche 35 (Dos Barriles), Chicxulub
Playa del Carmen 82 sound and light show 63 Puerto 102
pharmacies 119 Puerta del Mar, Restaurante Vaselina,
Picota, La, Uxmal 30 Campeche 35 San Felipe 103
Piedra Escondida hotel, Puerto Aventuras holiday restaurants (Top 10) 70–71
Index
Tulum 130 village 45, 87 restrooms
Piña Colada bar, shopping 92 and the disabled 121
Puerto Aventuras 94 fishing 57 Rey ruins, El, Cancún 9, 78
pirates 17, 35 Puerto Juárez, Cancún 78 Richard’s Steaks and Pizza,
Pisté 22 Puerto Morelos 44, 54, 70, Puerto Aventuras 95
places to get away from it all 76, 77, 79 Río Lagartos 49, 55, 98
54–5 Puerto Morelos (cont.) fishing 57
beach 44 flamingo tours 101
planning your trip 114
Parque Marítimo 46 Ritz Carlton hotel, Cancún 128
Playa del Carmen 12–13, 44,
reef 46, 48, 76 Rock’n Java café, Cozumel
77, 79
pufferfish 47 95
beaches 13
Punta Allen 21, 54 Roots bar, Cancún 82
fishing 57
fishing 57 Royal Hideaway resort, Playa
hotels 12
Punta Bete 54, 76, 79 del Carmen 129
nightlife 12
Punta Cancún and the ruins see Mayan ruins
reef 46
see also Xcaret “Corazone” 8
Punta Juárez 16 S
Playa del Secreto 79
Punta Lagosta shopping sacred cenote Chichén Itzá 53
Playa Delfines,
mall, Cozumel 92 sailing 56
Cancún 77, 79
Punta Laguna 48, 59, 90 salt flats 98
Playa Mia, Cozumel 58
San Antonio de Padua
Playa Norte, Punta Maroma 78
monastery 42
Isla Mujeres 16, 79 Punta Sam, Cancún 78
San Bernardino Sisal church,
Playa San Francisco, Punta Santa Cecilia,
Valladolid 42, 97
Cozumel 11, 91 Cozumel 11, 89
San Felipe 55, 99
Playa Secreto, Punta Solimán beach 91
San Gervasio ruins,
Isla Mujeres 16, 79 Punta Xamach beach 91
Cozumel 11, 87, 89
Playa Sol, Cozumel 11, 58, 91 Puuc cities 30
San Miguel Arcángel fiesta,
Playa Tortugas, Cancún 79 Pyramid of the Magician,
Cozumel 65
Playa Tukán 13 Uxmal 28
San Miguel 10
Playacar, San Roque church,
Playa del Carmen 13, 78 Q
Campeche 43
aviary 13 Qué Onda restaurant,
sandals 65
Plaza Caracol shopping mall, Akumal 95 Santa Clara 100
Cancún 80 Quinta Avenida 12 Santanera nightclub, La,
Plaza Caribe hotel, Playa del Carmen 61, 81
Cancún 130 R Sayil 31, 106, 107
Plaza del Sol, Cozumel 93 Rachat & Romero jewelers, scooters 116
police stations 119 Cozumel 92 sea cucumbers 47
Posada Amor, Puerto Rancho Libertad, seasons 114
Morelos 133 Puerto Morelos 126 Secrets Capri Riviera resort,
Posada Sirena guesthouse, rays 47 Playa del Carmen 129
Punta Allen 132 reef animals 47 security 119
Presidente Intercontinental Reef Resort, Playacar 129 Señor Frog’s bar, Cancún 82
Hotel, Cozumel 128 reefs see diving serenatas yucatecas,
Principal Café, La, resort hotels 129 Mérida 63
Campeche 110 Restaurante El Toro, serenatas campechanas,
Pro Drive diving store, Izamal 103 Campeche 63
Cozumel 92 Restaurante Hal-Tun, sergeant majors 47
Progreso 45, 105 Uxmal 107, 111 serpent heads, Uxmal 30
public transport 116 Restaurante Isla Contoy, Shalom clothing store,
and the disabled 121 Río Lagartos 103 Tulum 92
139

Shangri-La hotel, theme park Parque Nizuc 9 W
Playa del Carmen 126 things to avoid 120 walking 116
sharks 17, 47 Ticul 41, 71, 107, 108 water 119
shopping 122 Tihosuco 100 websites 117
Sian Ka’an Biosphere tipping 124 West, The 104–7
Reserve 20–21, 48, 89 tips for the disabled 121 best of the rest 108
Index
silverwork 65 Tizimín 40, 100 West, The (cont.)

skydiving 56 Tizimín Feast of Three Kings itinerary 107
Sleeping Sharks cave 17 64 map 104
snacks 71, 123, 124 tolls 116 nightspots 110
see also dishes of the topes (speed bumps) 120 places to eat 111
Yucatán, eating tips, Torreja bar-restaurant, La, places to shop 109
restaurants Río -Lagartos 102 wildlife reserves 48–9
snappers 47 tourist cards 115 see also birds, diving
snorkeling 14 tourist offices 117 windsurfing 56
see also diving, Xel-Ha tours & tour guides 124 wine 124
Sombrero Popular, El, traditional crafts 65, 101, 109 women travelers 119
hat store 109 traditional festivals 64–5 wood carving 65
sound and light shows 63 travel agencies 117
sources of information 117 Tres Reyes restaurant, X
South Beach, Tulum 91 Tizimín 99, 103 Xaman-Ha ruins 13
souvenir stores 122 Tres Ríos eco-park 58, 76 Xcambó ruins 100
special interests 114, 124 Tríos 27 Xcaret aviary and zoo 15
sports and activities 56–7 Tulum 18–19, 54, 88 Xcaret eco-park,
stone carvings 24 beaches 45 Playa del Carmen 13,
Sunday concerts, reef 47 14–15, 51, 59, 62, 77
Valladolid 102 ruins 18 Xcaret forest trail and orchid
see also music see also Gran Cenote, greenhouse 15
Super Telas textile store, Xel-Ha, Aktun-Ha cenote, Xcaret Mariposario butterfly
Playa del Carmen 80 Castillo, El garden 15
swimming turtles 47 Xcaret turtle pools 15
and the disabled 121 Xel-Ha
safety 119 U ruins 19, 59, 90
Uaymitún 49, 99 snorkel park 51, 59, 88
T Unicomio craft store, Xlapak 31, 107, 108
Tamarindo B&B, Cozumel 132 Cozumel 92 Xpu-Ha
Tankah 19 Urge Taquitos café, Tulum 95 bays 91
beach 90 Uxmal 28–30, 59, 106, 107 beaches 88
Dive Inn 130 ball court 28 reef 47
reef 47 carvings 30
taxis 116 dwarf 29 Y
scams 120 sound and light shows 63 Yalat handicraft store,
Teabo 41 “vision serpents” 30 Valladolid 101
Teatro de Cancún 62 Yaxcabá 100
Tekax church 43 V Yaxcopoíl hacienda 107, 108
Telchac 99 Valladolid 40, 42, 97 Yepez II bar-restaurant,
telephones 118 bicycle hire 101 Valladolid 102
Temple of the Centipede Candelaria, La 64 Yucalpetén 108
and the Arch 29 craft market and bazaar 101
see also Uxmal main plaza 101 Z
tennis 56 Villa Rolandi hotel, zoos
tequila 124 Isla Mujeres 128 Crococún crocodile park 58
see also drink village fiestas 64 Hacienda Mundaca 17
textiles 122 see also traditional
see also traditional crafts festivals
The City, Cancún 81 Villa Kiin, Isla Mujeres 130
theme parks 50–51 visas 114
140

Acknowledgements
The Author Senior Art Editor
Nick Rider is a freelance travel writer and Marisa Renzullo
editor, based in London. Cartographic Editor
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TT-CY_141-Acknow.indd 141 18/7/08 12:34:12 AM

Phrase Book
In an Emergency Useful Words
Help! ¡Socorro! soh-koh-roh big grande grahn-deh
small pequeño/a peh-keh-nyoh/nyah
Stop! ¡Pare! pah-reh
hot caliente kah-lee-ehn-teh
Call a doctor! ¡Llame a un yah-meh ah oon
frío/a free-oh/ah
Phrase Book
cold
médico! meh-dee-koh good bueno/a bweh-noh/nah
Call an ¡Llame una yah-meh ah bad malo/a mah-loh/lah
ambulance! ambulancia! oonah ahm- open abierto/a ah-bee-ehr-
boo-lahn-see-ah toh/tah
closed cerrado/a sehr-rah-doh/dah
Call the fire ¡Llame a los yah-meh ah lohs
full lleno/a yeh-noh/nah
department! bomberos! bohm-beh-rohs
empty vacío/a vah-see-oh/ah
policeman el policía ehl poh-lee-see-ah left izquierda ees-key-ehr-dah
right derecha deh-reh-chah
Communication Essentials (keep) straight (siga) derecho (see-gah) deh-
Yes Sí see ahead reh-choh
No No noh near cerca sehr-kah
far lejos leh-hohs
Please Por favor pohr fah-vohr
more más mahs
Thank you Gracias grah-see-ahs
less menos meh-nohs
Excuse me Perdone pehr-doh-neh entrance entrada ehn-trah-dah
Hello Hola oh-lah exit salida sah-lee-dah
Bye (casual) Chau chau elevator el ascensor ehl ah-sehn-sohr
toilets baños/ bah-nyohs/
Goodbye Adiós ah-dee-ohs
women’s de damas deh dah-mahs
What? ¿Qué? keh
men’s de caballeros deh kah-bah-yeh-
When? ¿Cuándo? kwahn-doh rohs
Why? ¿Por qué? pohr-keh
Where? ¿Dónde? dohn-deh Post Offices and Banks
Where can I ¿Dónde puedo dohn-deh pweh-
How are you? ¿Cómo está koh-moh ehs-tah
change money? cambiar doh kahm-bee-
usted? oos-tehd
dinero? ahr dee-neh-roh
Very well, Muy bien, mwee bee-ehn How much ¿Cuánto kwahn-toh
thank you gracias grah-see-ahs is the cuesta kweh-
Pleased to Mucho gusto moo-choh goo- postage to…? enviar una stah ehn-vee-
meet you stoh carta a…? yahr oo-nah
kahr-tah ah
See you soon Hasta pronto ahs-tah prohn-toh
I need stamps Necesito neh-seh-see-toh
I’m sorry Lo siento loh see-ehn-toh
estampillas ehs-tahm
-pee-yahs
Useful Phrases
That’s fine Está bien ehs-tah bee-ehn Shopping
Great/fantastic! ¡Qué bien! keh bee-ehn How much ¿Cuánto kwahn-toh
does this cost? cuesta esto? kwehs-tah ehs-toh
Where is/are…? ¿Dónde dohn-deh ehs-
I would like… Me gustaría… meh goos-tah-
está/están…? tah/ehs-tahn
ree-ah
How far is it to…? ¿Cuántos kwahn-tohs Do you have? ¿Tienen? tee-yeh-nehn
metros/ meh-trohs/kee- Do you take ¿Aceptan ahk-sehp-tahn
kilómetros hay loh-meh-trohs credit cards/ tarjetas de tahr-heh-tahs
de aquí a…? eye deh ah-kee ah traveler’s crédito/ deh kreh-dee-
checks? cheques toh/
Which way ¿Por dónde pohr dohn-deh
de viajero? cheh-kehs deh
is it to…? se va a…? seh vah ah
vee-ah-heh-roh
Do you speak ¿Habla inglés? ah-blah I am looking Estoy ehs-tohy boos-
English? een-glehs for… buscando… kahn-doh
I don’t No noh kohm- expensive caro kahr-oh
cheap barato bah-rah-toh
understand comprendo/
white blanco blahn-koh
entiendo prehn-doh
black negro neh-groh
red rojo roh-hoh
I would like Quisiera/ kee-see-yehr-ah
yellow amarillo ah-mah-ree-yoh
Me gustaría meh goo-stah green verde vehr-deh
-ree ah blue azul ah-sool
142
TT-CY_142-144_PhraseBk.indd 142 18/7/08 12:38:22 AM

antique store la tienda de lah tee-ehn-dah tourist la oficina de lah oh-fee-see-
antigüedades deh ahn-tee- information turismo nah deh too-
gweh-dah-dehs office rees-moh
bakery la panadería lah pah-nah-deh ticket la entrada lah ehn-trah-dah
ree-ah guide (person) el/la guía ehl/lah gee-ah
bank el banco ehl bahn-koh guide (book) la guía lah gee-ah
bookstore la librería lah lee-breh- map el mapa ehl mah -pah
Phrase Book
ree-ah taxi stand sitio see-tee-on deh
butcher’s la carnicería lah kahr-nee- de taxis tahk-sees
seh-ree-ah
cake store la pastelería lah pahs-teh-leh- Staying in a Hotel
ree-ah Do you have ¿Tienen una tee-eh-nehn
jeweler’s la joyería lah hoh-yeh-ree- a vacant room? habitación oo-nah ah-bee-
yah libre? tah-see-ohn
market el tianguis/ ehl tee-ahn-goo- lee-breh
mercado ees/mehr-kah- double room habitación ah-bee-tah-see-
doh doble ohn doh-bleh
newsstand el kiosko ehl kee-ohs-koh single room habitación ah-bee-tah-see-
de prensa deh prehn-sah sencilla ohn sehn-see-yah
post office la oficina de lah oh-fee-see- room with habitación ah-bee-tah-see-
correos nah deh kohr-reh- a bath con baño ohn kohn bah-
ohs nyoh
shoe store la zapatería lah sah-pah-teh- shower la ducha lah doo-chah
ree-ah I have a Tengo una tehn-goh oo-nah
supermarket el ehl soo-pehr- reservation habitación ah-bee-tah-see-
supermercado mehr-kah-doh reservada ohn reh-sehr-
travel agency la agencia de lah ah-hehn-see-ah vah-dah
viajes deh vee-ah-hehs key la llave lah yah-veh
Transportation Eating Out

When does the… ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah Have you got ¿Tienen mesa tee-eh-nehn
leave? sale el…? sah-leh ehl
a table for… para…? meh-sah pah-rah
Where is ¿Dónde está dohn-deh ehs-the
I want to Quiero kee-eh-roh
bus la parada tah
reserve reservar reh-sehr-vahr
stop? de buses? lah pah-rah-dah
a table una mesa oo-nah meh-sah
deh boo-sehs
The bill, La cuenta, lah kwehn-tah
please por favor pohr fah-vohr
Is there a bus ¿Hay un eye oon kah-mee-
I am a Soy soy veh-heh-tah-
/train to…? camión/ ohn/trehn ah
vegetarian vegetariano/a ree-ah-no/na
tren a...?
waiter/waitress mesero/a meh-seh-roh/rah
platform el andén ehl ahn-dehn
menu la carta lah kahr-tah
ticket office la taquilla lah tah-kee-yah
wine list la carta de lah kahr-tah deh
round-trip ticket un boleto oon boh-leh-toh
vinos vee-nohs
de ida deh ee-dah ee
glass un vaso oon vah-soh
y vuelta voo-ehl-tah
bottle una botella oo-nah boh-teh-yah
one-way ticket un boleto de oon boh-leh-toh
knife un cuchillo oon koo-chee-yoh
ida solamente deh ee-dah soh-
fork un tenedor oon teh-neh-dohr
lah-mehn-teh
airport el aeropuerto ehl ah-ehr- spoon una cuchara oo-nah koo-chah-
oh-poo- rah
breakfast el desayuno ehl deh-sah-yoo-
Sightseeing noh
art gallery el museo ehl moo-seh-oh lunch la comida lah koh-mee-dah
de arte deh ahr-teh dinner la cena lah seh-nah
beach la playa lah plah-yah main course el plato fuerte ehl plah-toh
cathedral la catedral lah kah-teh- foo-ehr-teh
drahl starters las entradas lahs ehn-trah-das
church la iglesia/ lah ee-gleh-see-ah/ dish of the day el plato ehl plah-toh dehl
la basílica lah bah-see-lee- del día dee-ah
kah tip la propina lah proh-pee-nah
garden el jardín ehl hahr-deen Is service ¿El servicio ehl sehr-vee-see-
museum el museo ehl moo-seh-oh está
pyramid la pirámide lah pee-rah-meed included? incluido? oh ehs-tah een-
ruins las ruinas lahs roo-ee-nahs kloo-ee-doh
Bold letters in the pronunciation guides (right columns) indicate 143

the streassed syllable.

Menu Decoder Numbers
el aceite ah-see-eh-teh oil 0 cero seh-roh
las aceitunas ah-seh-toon-ahsolives 1 uno oo-noh
el agua mineral ah-gwa mee- mineral water 2 dos dohs
neh-rahl 3 tres trehs

4 cuatro kwa-troh
sin gas/con gas seen gas still/sparkling
Phrase Book
5 cinco seen-koh
/kohn gas
6 seis says
el ajo ah-hoh garlic
7 siete see-eh-teh
el arroz ahr-rohs rice
8 ocho oh-choh
el azúcar ah-soo-kahr sugar
9 nueve nweh-veh
el plátano pla-tah-noh banana 10 diez dee-ehs
una bebida beh-bee-dah drink 11 once ohn-seh
el café kah-feh coffee 12 doce doh-seh
la carne kahr-neh meat 13 trece treh-seh
la cebolla seh-boh-yah onion 14 catorce kah-tohr-seh
la cerveza sehr-veh-sah beer 15 quince keen-seh
el cerdo sehr-doh pork 16 dieciséis dee-eh-see-seh-ees
el chocolate choh-koh chocolate 17 diecisiete dee-eh-see-see-
-lah-teh eh-teh
18 dieciocho dee-eh-see-oh-choh
la ensalada ehn-sah salad
19 diecinueve dee-eh-see-
-lah-dah
nweh-veh
la fruta froo-tah fruit
20 veinte veh-een-teh
el helado eh-lah-doh ice cream
21 veintiuno veh-een-tee-oo-noh
el huevo oo-eh-voh egg
22 veintidós veh-een-tee-dohs
el jugo ehl hoo-goh juice treinta
30 treh-een-tah
la langosta lahn-gohs-tah lobster 31 treinta y uno treh-een-tah ee
la leche leh-cheh milk oo-noh
la mantequilla mahn-teh butter 40 cuarenta kwah-rehn-tah
-kee-yah 50 cincuenta seen-kwehn-tah
la manzana mahn-sah-nah apple 60 sesenta seh-sehn-tah
los mariscos mah-rees-kohs seafood 70 setenta seh-tehn-tah
la naranja nah-rahn-hah orange 80 ochenta oh-chehn-tah
el pan pahn bread 90 noventa noh-vehn-tah
100 cien see-ehn
las papas pah-pahs potatoes
101 ciento uno see-ehn-toh oo-noh
el pescado pehs-kah-doh fish
102 ciento dos see-ehn-toh dohs
picante pee-kahn-teh spicy
200 doscientos dohs-see-ehn- tohs
la pimienta pee-mee pepper
500 quinientos khee-nee-ehn-tohs
-yehn-tah
700 setecientos seh-teh-see-ehn-tohs
el pollo poh-yoh chicken
900 novecientos noh-veh-see-
el postre pohs-treh dessert ehn-tohs
el queso keh-soh cheese 1,000 mil meel
el refresco reh-frehs-koh soft drink/soda 1,001 mil uno meel oo-noh
la sal sahl salt
la salsa sahl-sah sauce Time
la sopa one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
soh-pah soup
one hour una hora oo-nah oh-rah
el té teh herb tea (usually
half an hour media hora meh-dee-ah oh-rah
camomile)
half past one la una y lah oo-nah ee
el té negro teh neh-groh tea
media meh-dee-ah
la torta tohr-tah sandwich
Monday lunes loo-nehs
las tostadas tohs-tah-dahs toast
Tuesday martes mahr-tehs
el vinagre vee-nah-greh vinegar Wednesday miércoles mee-ehr-koh-lehs
el vino blanco vee-noh white wine Thursday jueves hoo-weh-vehs
blahn-koh Friday viernes vee-ehr-nehs
el vino tinto vee-noh red wine Saturday sábado sah-bah-doh
teen-toh Sunday domingo doh-meen-goh
144

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08<,/ YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

& THE YUCATAN & THE YUCATAN

CANCUN & THE YUCATAN

7HOFKDTXLOOR 6RWXWD &KLFKªQ,W]¢

6DQ)UDQFLVFR 0D[FDQX #OZUMELŽANDŽTHEŽ3OUTH

Most fun places for children

Cancun_new.indd 1 17/7/08 12:24:34

Eco-Parks and Streetsmart

Left Xcaret Mayan Village Right Campeche

THE YUCATÁN’S TOP 10

TT-CY_004-005_Opener.indd 5 1/12/06 11:37:57

Highlights of the Yucatán

of the east coast’s “Mayan Riviera” lie alongside charming

Progreso Telchac Santa Clara

beaches, lavish hotels, every kind of

The trendiest spot on

 Previous pages The Mayan ruins of Tulum

The Yucatán’s Top 10

extends all the way to

The Yucatán’s Top 10

& Avenida Tulum

For more on Cancún and the northern part of the 

Cousteau came here. Second only to the Great Barrier

Some of the most

$12, discount for under

to the shore, this is a

The Yucatán’s Top 10

& Palancar Reef

* Parque Punta Sur

Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 11

sand streets in the 1980s, and a backpackers’ hang-

Top 10 Sights ! Town Beach

873 0242; www.

The Yucatán’s Top 10

4 8 , 17$ $9 ( 1 , ' $

& Playacar Aviary

TT-CY_012-13-PlayaCarmen.indd 13 4/12/06 4:06:44

Playa del Carmen: Xcaret

14 Note: there are extra charges for the dolphin pools,

The Yucatán’s Top 10

& Aviary and Zoo

can see different kinds of

Cancún, the island has a laid-back atmosphere

The Yucatán’s Top 10

^ ElThis nature park and

Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 17

Nearby, too, is the finest cave diving area in the

The Yucatán’s Top 10

( Dos Ojos Cenote

TT-CY_018-019-Tulum.indd 19 1/12/06 11:48:48

around Ascensión Bay, the area encompasses lagoons, reefs,

Tours tend to include

The Yucatán’s Top 10

Note: the road to Punta Allen is extremely rough and should be 21

TT-CY_020-021_SianKaan.indd 21 4/12/06 6:14:20

The Yucatán’s Top 10

The squat temple

Almost like a smaller

For more Mayan ruins in the Yucatán see pp38–9 23

TT-CY_022-023-ChichenItza.indd 23 1/12/06 11:51:44

Chichén Itzá: The Carvings

@ Chac Mool and Altar of

$ Ball Court Frieze

Previous pages The Mayan ruins of Tulum

For more on Cancún and the northern part of the

& $// (

& $//(

built and is now a bank. of cafés and restaurants. & $ / / (

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