DK Eyewitness Top 10 Provence and The Côte D'azur (Pocket Travel Guide)

EYEWITNESS
TOP 10
PROVENCE
AND THE CÔTE D’AZUR
Top 10 Provence The Top 10
and the Côte d’Azur of Everything
Highlights
Welcome to Provence Moments in History ..................... 36
and the Côte d’Azur.................... 5 Roman Sights............................... 38
Exploring Provence and Places of Worship ........................ 40
the Côte d’Azur ........................... 6
Art Galleries ................................. 42
Provence and the Côte
Painters in Provence.................... 44
d’Azur Highlights ...................... 10
Provençal Legends ...................... 46
Palais des Papes.......................... 12
Provence Villages......................... 48
Gorges du Verdon ........................ 14
Areas of Natural Beauty .............. 50
Roman Arles ................................ 16
Beaches of Provence ................... 52
Aix-en-Provence .......................... 18
Gardens in Provence.................... 54
Vieux Nice ..................................... 20
Sporting Activities ........................ 56
St-Tropez ...................................... 24
Children’s Activities...................... 58
The Camargue ............................. 26
Places to See and Be Seen ......... 60
Vaison-la-Romaine ...................... 28
Gourmet Restaurants.................. 62
Abbaye Notre-Dame
de Sénanque............................. 30 Vineyards and Distilleries ............ 64
St-Paul-de-Vence ........................ 32 Provence for Free......................... 66
Festivals and Events .................... 68
Offshore Islands ........................... 70
CONTENTS
Provence and the Streetsmart

Côte d’Azur Area
by Area
Marseille....................................... 74 Getting Around ...........................134
Bouches-du-Rhône ..................... 80 Practical Information .................138
The Var and Provençal Coast ...... 86 Places to Stay .............................142
Nice ............................................... 94
Monaco and the Riviera .............102 General Index .............................148
Alpes-Maritimes ........................112 Acknowledgments .....................157
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence ........118 Phrase Book...............................159
Vaucluse .....................................124
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy The rapid rate at which the world is changing
of quality or popularity is implied. All ten are, in is constantly keeping the DK Eyewitness
the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. team on our toes. While we’ve worked hard
to ensure that this edition of Provence and
Title page, front cover and spine Blooming the Côte d’Azur is accurate and up-to-date,
lavender flowers at Abbaye Notre-Dame de we know that opening hours alter, standards
Sénanque, Provence shift, prices fluctuate, places close and new
Back cover, clockwise from top left ones pop up in their stead. So, if you notice
Bouillabaisse; Arles Old Town; Gorges du Verdon we’ve got something wrong or left something
canyon; Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque in out, we want to hear about it. Please get in
lavender field; Street lined with restaurants in touch at travelguides@dk.com
Place Rossetti, Nice
Top 10 Provence and the Côte d’Azur ❮❮ 5
Welcome to
Provence and
the Côte d’Azur
Provence is the most dazzling corner of France. The region’s
perfect light drew artists such as Renoir and Matisse, while
its Riviera glamour has enchanted movie stars and tourists
alike. It is a place of history and mystery, fantastic food and
unbridled fun. With DK Eyewitness Top 10 Provence and the
Côte d’Azur, it’s yours to explore.
Thousands of years of migration have left a lasting cultural legacy

in Provence, and historic sites such as the Roman amphitheatre in
Nîmes, the medieval Abbaye de Sénanque and the papal vineyards
of Châteauneuf-du-Pape still operate today. The 20th century
shone an even stronger spotlight on the region’s timeless villages
and towns. Picasso painted Antibes, Van Gogh lost an ear in
Arles, and Cézanne captured the Provençal countryside around
Aix-en-Provence on canvas.
The Côte d’Azur is the south of France at its most cosmopolitan

and lively, from the multinational restaurants of Marseille to
the glamorous beach clubs of St-Tropez. If you grow tired of the
high life, it is easy to escape to the perched villages of the Alpes-
Maritimes and the Var, to the wild Camargue wetlands or to the
Îles de Lérins off Cannes. The region is filled with places where you
can savour your own off-the-beaten-track paradise.
Whether you’re visiting for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide

brings together the best of everything the region has to offer, from
the museums of Marseille to the nightlife in Nice. The guide gives
you tips throughout, from seeking out what’s free to avoiding the
crowds, as well as ten easy-to-follow itineraries designed to cover a
clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography
and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel
companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Provence and the Côte d’Azur.
Clockwise from top: The fishing port of Cassis; carved stonework at Église St-Trophime, Arles;
flamingoes in the Carmargue; the Calanque d’En-Vau, Cassis; interior of Notre-Dame de la
Garde, Marseille; Les Arénes, Arles; cypress trees at Château de Berne
6 ❯❯ Top 10 Provence and the Côte d’Azur
Exploring Provence
and the Côte d’Azur
Provence’s most important sights are scattered widely
across the region, but a world-class public transport
system, with the Nice-Cannes-Aix-Marseille-Avignon
TGV train along its spine, connects every hilltop village
and coastal town. Here are some ideas to
help you make the most of your time.
Two Days in Provence Vaison-

Vaison-
la-Romaine
la-Romaine
Day 1
MORNING
Start your day in Nice (see pp94–9)
with a stroll down cours Saleya GARDGARD Abbaye
Abbaye
(see p20). Marvel at the VAUCLUSE
VAUCLUSE Notre-Dame
Notre-Dame
de Sénanque
de Sénanque
Marche aux Fleurs (flower Palais
Palais
Avignon,
Avignon,
de Papes
de Papes
market), the city’s most TGVTGV
St Remy-de-
St Remy-de-
colourful sight (Tue–Sun), Provence
Provence
S
S
then take a jaunt down

BU
BU
LesLes Baux-de-Provence
Baux-de-Provence
the promenade du Arles
Arles
Paillon (see pp94–5). TGVTGV
BOUCHES-DU-RHONE
BOUCHES-DU-RHONE
AFTERNOON Aix-en-
Aix-en-
Camargue
Camargue Provence
Provence
After a lunch of
salade Niçoise on the
TGVTGV
seafront promenade des
Anglais, relive the French
Riviera’s glamorous past in 0 km
0 km 20 20
the Villa Masséna (see p96).
0 miles
0 miles 20 20
Day 2 AFTERNOON
MORNING Hire a car and drive through lavender
Take an early TGV train to explore fields to the Roman town of Vaison-la-
Avignon’s historic Palais de Papes Romaine (see pp28–9). Complete the
(see pp12–13), which overlooks the day with a walk around the bucolic
River Rhône. Have lunch at the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque
venerable Hiély Lucullus (see p131). (see pp30–31).
Seven Days in Provence

Day 1
As Day 1 of Two Days in Provence.
Day 2
Nothing says Nice (see pp94–9) like
Henri Matisse. Take coffee below his
former apartment (at what is now
Bar L’F, pl Charles Félix), and head up
Cimiez hill to marvel at the countless
Nice’s promenade du Paillon offers a works he bequeathed to the city, now
leafy stroll in the heart of the busy city. in the Musée Matisse (see p42).
Exploring Provence and the Côte d’Azur ❮❮ 7
Day 4
Head northwest to Aix-en-Provence
(see 18–19) and follow in the footsteps
of Paul Cézanne to the artist’s
favourite restaurant, the Brasserie
Les Deux Garçons on cours Mirabeau.
Guided tours are available, via the
tourist office, of all the key sights,
including the Atelier de Cézanne (his
studio, just as he left it) and his family
home, the Bastide du Jas de Bouffan.
Day 5
Start out early. It’s a long – if visually
St-Tropez harbour is lined with stunning – drive northeast to visit
fishing boats and super-yachts. the Gorges du Verdon (see pp14–15).
Key Stop en route for a bite to eat, and
Two-day itinerary then tour the Corniche Sublime
Seven-day itinerary by car. This hair-raising road loops
past the
ALPES-DE-HAUTE-
ALPES-DE-HAUTE-
PROVENCE
PROVENCE Corniche
Corniche Balcons
Sublime
Sublime ALPES-
ALPES- Prince's Palace,
Prince's Palace, de la Mescla
MARITIMES
MARITIMES Monaco
Monaco
viewpoint,
Musée Matisse
Musée Matisse TE RTE R
LacLac
de de some 700 m
Ste-Croix
Ste-Croix Gorges du du
Gorges NiceNice (2,300 ft) above
Verdon
Verdon
the canyon floor.
VAR
VAR TGVTGV
Make sure you save
R RY RRY enough time for a hired
FE FE boat trip out onto Lac de
Ste-Croix (see p91) before you
return to Aix for the night.
St-Tropez
St-Tropez
Day 6
Take an early train through the
vineyards from Aix to Arles (see
Vieux Nice Musée Matisse 2 km (1.2 miles)
pp16–17). Play gladiator in the Roman
cours
promenade Saleya amphitheatre then picnic amid the
Musée du Paillon ruins. Arles is also the gateway to the
Masséna
Bar
breathtaking Camargue (see pp26–7).
Marché aux
Fleurs L'F Cycle, kayak or take a boat tour to
Promenade des
Anglais 0 metres 500
see flamingoes and other birdlife,
white horses and black bulls.
0 miles 500
Day 7
After lunch, ride the coastal train Take a bus to St-Rémy-de-Provence
15 minutes east to bask in the (see p83) with its street markets and
grandeur of the Prince’s Palace pavement cafés, which were so loved
in Monaco (see p103). by local resident Vincent van Gogh.
Copies of his paintings are displayed
Day 3 where they were painted, along a
Take a boat west along the coast for picturesque artist’s trail. A short bus
a lazy day on the sands of St-Tropez’s ride further, Les Baux-de-Provence
La Fontanette beach. Later, try your (see p82) has a dramatic ruined
hand at pétanque on places des castle, two Michelin-starred
Lices, then celebrity-spot around restaurants and panoramic views
the Vieux Port (see pp24–5). over the Provence countryside.
Top 10 Provence
and the Côte d’Azur
Highlights
Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, surrounded by lavender fields

Provence and the St-Tropez 24
Côte d’Azur Highlights 10
The Camargue 26
Palais des Papes 12
Vaison-la-Romaine 28
Gorges du Verdon 14
Abbaye Notre-Dame
Roman Arles 16 de Sénanque 30
Aix-en-Provence 18 St-Paul-de-Vence 32
Vieux Nice 20
10 ❯❯ Top 10 Provence and the Côte d’Azur Highlights
Provence and the

Côte d’Azur Highlights
Provence’s top sights span the region’s rich and varied history,
from Roman arenas and isolated abbeys to the opulence of
the belle époque and the chic resorts beloved of the jet set.
Sun-soaked beaches, pretty villages and a mountainous
interior have drawn generations
of artists, and continue to
enchant visitors today.
Palais des Papes

This medieval palace, the
seat of 14th-century pontiffs,
dominates the delightful town of
Avignon (see pp12–13). Bollène
Bollène
Vaison-la-
Vaison-la-
Romaine
Romaine D946D946
Orange
Orange
Malaucene
8
Malaucene
8
D93
D93
D1 D1 Sault
Sault St Etienne
St Etienne
A7
A7
Carpentras
Carpentras
V AVUACULCULSUES E Banon
Banon
Avignon
Avignon Abbaye Notre-
Abbaye Notre-
Dame de Sénanque
Dame de Sénanque
D9 00D9 00
0
0
N57
N57
Manosque
Manosque
Cavaillon
Cavaillon
Pa r cPaNract u
NraetluRr eélgRi oéngai ol ndau L uubLeur obne r o n
Orgon ld
Orgon
Arles
Arles Salon de de
Salon Lambesc
Lambesc
Provence Caderache
Caderache
Provence
TheThe
Gra
B OBUOCUHCEHS E- S - A8 A8 Aix-en-
Gra Rhône
Aix-en-
D 3n5d R
Camargue
D35
Gorges du Verdon
Camargue
nd
D UD- U
R -HROHNOEN E Provence
ProvenceA8
A7
D9 A8
A7
D9
hône
The Verdon river flows

through deep limestone gorges
A5
PortPort
St-Louis
A5
St-Louis D56 0D56 0

2
2
into the Lac de Ste-Croix, creating La Couronne

La Couronne Marseille
Marseille M a sMs iafsd e l a S
sif de la
one of Provence’s most stunning

natural landscapes (see pp14–15). C ô C La Ciotat
t e ô t e La Ciotat
de d
s Ce s Bandol
Roman Aix-en- a l aC a l Bandol
n qaun q
esues
Arles Provence
Arles was one of the Aix is packed with
Roman Empire’s most museums and historic
important cities, and buildings. Nearby Mont
its splendid arena still Sainte-Victoire inspired
evokes the age of the Provençal artist
Caesar (see pp16–17). Cézanne (see pp18–19).
Provence Highlights ❮❮ 11
Vieux Nice
Nice is a lively and sophisticated city,
but its Old Quarter retains its vibrant, historic
character (see pp20–21).
St-Tropez The
Pretty and chic Camargue
St-Tropez, with its Vast lagoons inhabited
yacht-filled harbour by flamingoes and
and fantastic beaches, plains with black bulls
is the place to see are just part of the
and be seen on the protected landscape
Provençal coast of the regional natural
(see pp24–5). park of the Camargue
0 km
0 km 25 25 (see pp26–7).
D 9 0 0D 9
00 0 miles 25 25
0 miles
Seyne
Seyne Barcelonnette
La Motte Barcelonnette
La Motte
A LAP LE PS E- D
S -ED- E - Pa P
H AHUATUE T- E - rc arc
NaN
Sisteron P RPORVOEVNECNEC E
Sisteron t i ao t i
n ao n
l ad l
La Javie
La Javie u dM
u eM
r cear nc at on ut or u r
ValbergValberg
5 TendeTende
Digne-les-Bains
A 51
5 Digne-les-Bains
A 51
N8 N8
2
2
Saorge
20
St-André- Saorge
20
St-André-
D2
Les Les
Penitents A LAP LE PS E- M
S -AMRAI T
R II M
T IEMS E S
D2
Penitents les-Alpes
les-Alpes
des des
MéesMées D6 20D6
2 20
7
2
7
D90
D90
565
Puget-Théniers
565
AsseAsse Puget-Théniers
D2
D2
Gorges Castellane
Castellane
Gorges
Gréoux-
Gréoux- du Verdon
du Verdon
les-Bains
les-Bains n Carros
Carros
d o o n Séranon
Séranon
P a r Pc a Ve r rd
Nr ac tNuar et l R é g i o n a l daul d u V e St-Paul-
St-Paul-
urel Région Monaco
Monaco
de-Vence
de-Vence
Aups NiceNice
D71
Aups
D71
Antibes
Antibes
V AV RA R Salernes
Salernes A8 A8
Barjols
Barjols Cannes
Cannes
Le Muy
Le Muy
59
59
D5
D5
A8 A8
Vaison-la-
D25
D25
Brignoles
Brignoles
St-Raphaël
St-Raphaël
re re Romaine
s
s
e
Sat e SBtae uBma u m e
7
au au
7
A5
A5
M St-Tropez
St-Tropez
s s M
Cuers
Cuers
d e
if f d
e A treasury of
ss si
Ma Ma s archaeological finds has
8
8
D9
D9
Hyères
been unearthed in this
Toulon Hyères
Toulon
small town, once one of
Provence’s most important
Roman towns (see pp28–9).
Abbaye Notre-Dame
de Sénanque
The great Cistercian abbey is a fine
example of Romanesque religious
architecture (see pp30–31).
St-Paul-de-Vence
Walk in the footsteps of
artists such as Picasso and Matisse
at this former farming community
and village that has turned into an
artistic hotbed (see pp32–3).
Palais des Papes

In 1309, Pope Clement V transferred the papacy to France to escape
political turmoil in Rome, and, for 68 years, Avignon became the
religious and political centre of Christendom. The magnificent Papal
Palace was built in just over 20 years, begun in 1335. Pope Benedict XII
was responsible for the sober, Cistercian architecture of the Old
Palace; his successor, Clement VI, added the New Palace in Gothic
style, creating a massive ensemble of towers and stone walls
soaring 50 m (165 ft) above the town centre.
It remains a monument to the vast wealth
and power of the papacy in the Middle Ages.
3 Consistory
Hall
It was in the vast Salle
du Consistoire that the
pope, cardinals and
dignitaries gathered
to consider key issues
of the day. It is now
a museum of artifacts
(left), including elegant
14th-century frescoes
by Simone Martini.
1 Courtyard
of Honour 4 Refectory
It was in the large
The “meeting” of the refectory (tinel) that the
two palaces is the best pope entertained on
place to compare their feast days, such as a
respective styles. While cardinal’s appointment Palais des Papes
the Old Palace resembles or a papal coronation.
a defensive keep, the
New Palace has finer
The pope would eat
alone on a dais, while 5 Stag Room
Clement VI let his
stonework. Today the cardinals and guests extravagant tastes run
courtyard is the venue for were arranged around wild in his study (below).
theatrical events taking the room according to Frescoes of hunting and
place during the Avignon rank. The spectacular fishing in a forest setting
Festival (see p70). barrel-vaulted wooden cover the walls – the
ceiling was restored most unusual decor
2 St John’s
Chapel
in the 1970s. in the palace.
Just off the Consistory

Hall, this decorative
gem was created by
Matteo Giovanetti, a
leading Sienese artist.
The now-faded frescoes
depict the lives of St John
the Baptist and St John
the Evangelist with
exceptional use of
perspective across the
walls and arched vault.
Palais des Papes ❮❮ 13
6 Benedict
Cloister
XII’s
9 Great Chapel
Of massive PAPAL AVIGNON
These four connecting proportions, 52 m (170 ft) The arrival of the papacy
buildings, surrounding long, 15 m (50 ft) wide in Avignon brought
a courtyard, date from and 20 m (65 ft) high, great wealth and
1340. Used for staff and with seven vaulted bays, prestige to the town.
guest accommodation, the Grande Chapelle When Pope Gregory XI
they were decorated by was the scene of all took the papacy back
the Italian artist Simone kinds of religious to Rome in 1377 the
celebrations, including French cardinals did not
Martini. The Benedictine
approve. On his death,
chapel is also here. papal coronations.
they elected a French
pope, while Italian
cardinals elected an
Italian one, putting
the Christian world
in schism. The row was
resolved in 1417 and
Avignon popes after
Gregory XI have been
considered anti-popes.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP B3
• Pl du Palais, Avignon
• 04 32 74 32 74
• www.palais-des-
papes.com
Open daily; Jan–Jun:
10am–5pm; early–mid-
Jul: 10am–6pm; mid-
Jul–mid-Aug: 10am–
7pm; mid-Aug–end
Aug: 10am–6pm; Sep–
7 Treasury Halls
The papal wealth 0 Pope’s
Chamber
Dec: 10am–5pm.
Adm €12; under-8s free
was stashed beneath the The pope’s bedroom
flagstoned floor of the gives a sense of everyday
• Arrive early in the
Lower Treasury Hall. palace life. The pontiffs morning to avoid the
The Upper Treasury slept within blue walls crowds – the palace
Hall was effectively the receives up to 4,000
decorated with vine and
visitors a day in summer.
accounts department. oak-leaf motifs (below).
• There is a great café on
Great the roof of the palace.

8 Audience Hall • The palace’s excellent
This was the meeting Histopad tablet guides
place of the popes’ are included with the
forbidding judiciary, entry ticket.
against which no appeal • Ask for the Avignon
was allowed. The vaulted City Pass when buying
ceiling bears a small your first ticket to an
section of the Fresco Avignon sight – it
of the Prophet – sadly, includes admission to
much of it was hacked 10 museums or other
off and sold while the attractions within a
palace was a barracks 24- or 48-hour period.
in the 19th century.
Gorges du Verdon
The aptly named Gorges du Verdon is one of the most spectacular
sights in France. Cutting deep into the rock, the Verdon river
has created a series of canyons 25 km (15 miles) long and up to
700 m (2,300 ft) deep – a geography that prevented the area being
fully explored until 1905. Vividly blue in places, foaming white
where it storms through rapids beneath limestone cliffs, the
Verdon flows south into the turquoise waters of the Lac de
Ste-Croix, formed by damming the river close to Ste-Croix
village. For the daring, the canyon offers rock climbing,
whitewater rafting and hiking, while the 140-km (85-mile)
drive around its magnificent landscapes takes a full day.
2 Point Sublime Moustiers-

Close to the village 4 Sainte-Marie
of Rougon, Point Sublime This lovely village
is one of the best places appears to grow out of
to look down into the the surrounding cliffs,
rugged landscapes of with graceful stone
the gorge. From here, bridges connecting
the GR4 trail leads down houses on either side
into the canyon. Sturdy of the Ravine de Notre-
footwear is required, Dame. Noted for its
as is a torch (flashlight) earthenware, it has a
to explore the tunnels small museum and a
cut into the cliffs. 12th-century cliffside
church, the Chapelle
3 La Corniche
Sublime
Notre-Dame-de-
Beauvoir (see p48).
1 Route
des Crêtes
The drive along the
Corniche Sublime (D71),
The Route des Crêtes on the south side of the
requires a good head canyon, genuinely lives
for heights and close up to its name. Stop
attention to the road, at the Balcons de la
but rewards visitors with Mescale for a superb
unbeatable vertiginous view and marvel at
views across the most Europe’s highest bridge,
spectacular reaches the Pont de l’Artuby,
of the canyon (above). at 125 m (410 ft) high.
Gorges du Verdon
Mézel St-André-les-
N85
Alpes
4
N202 5 Blanc-Martel
Trail
3
D95
Asse Moustiers- 0
Valensole Ste-Marie Castellane Forming part of the much
Gréoux- Riez La Palud 5 longer GR4 walking trail
D952
les-Bains 1
sur Verdon 2 through the canyon, the
7 D1
D71 8 Blanc-Martel Trail (above)
Quinson
6 D5
Comps-sur- is the most popular hike
55
D71 Artuby
3 through the gorges (see
D9
54
Aups
p57), passing cliffs and
D71
Tavernes
9 1 crossing narrow passes.
Gorges du Verdon ❮❮ 15
8 Trigance
This small,
attractive village, with
its fine views of the
rugged mountain peaks
that surround it, is a
good place to stop for
lunch on a motoring
tour of the canyon.
9 La Palud sur
Verdon
La Palud (see p122) is
the base for organized
walking expeditions into
the canyon, whitewater
rafting and kayaking
on the rapids.
0 Castellane
The pleasant,
small town of Castellane
(see p122) is the largest
community in the area
and has the widest
choice of places to stay
and eat. Tour operators
here offer a range of
activities in the canyon.
6 Lac de Ste-
Croix 7 Aiguines
A stately 17th-century château, with tiled roofs
The hydroelectric dam and white turrets (below), overlooks this attractive
that created this 10-km village. There are panoramic views over the lake.
(6-mile) long lake (above),
south of Moustiers,
generates much of
Provence’s power supply.
Electric motorboats,
canoes, windsurf boards
and catamarans can be
hired at Ste-Croix, Les
Salles and Bauduen.
NEED TO KNOW 2–5:30pm; Jan–Feb & Dec: Sat, 9:30am–12:30pm Sun

10am–12:30pm & 2–5pm; & public hols; Jul–Aug:
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie:
www.moustiers.fr 9am–6:30pm daily; www.
MAP E3; Office du
verdontourisme.com
Tourisme, pl de l’Eglise; Castellane: MAP F3;
04 92 74 67 84; open daily; Office du Tourisme, rue • Hôtel Le Grand Canyon du
Apr–May & Oct: 10am– Nationale; 04 92 83 61 14; Verdon (Corniche Sublime/

12:30pm & 2–6pm; Jun & open Nov–Mar: 10am–noon D71, Aiguines, 04 94 76 91
Sep: 9:30am–12:30pm & & 2–5pm Mon, Wed–Fri; Apr 31) is a good lunch spot.
2–6pm; Jul–Aug: 9:30am– & Oct: 9am–noon & 2–6pm • During Apr–Sep, rapid
7pm (9:30am–12:30pm, Mon–Sat, 9:30am–12:30pm raft trips can be taken down

2–7pm Sat & Sun); Mar & public hols; May–Jun & Sep: the canyon. Book with an
Nov: 10am–12:30pm & 9am–noon & 2–6pm Mon– operator in Castellane.
Roman Arles
One of the region’s most charming towns, Arles was founded by
Greek traders but soon gained favour with Caesar and his successors.
Its location, on the ancient Via Domitia at the southernmost crossing
point of the dangerous river Rhône, saw it grow into one of the most
important provincial cities of the Roman Empire. Like many towns
of the era, it was built to resemble Rome, with all the amenities.
Some of these survive, impressively intact, in the city centre,
including the remnants of a Roman theatre, baths and an
arena where gladiatorial contests were staged.
Les Arènes
One of the most spectacular
1
Roman relics in Provence, this
well-preserved arena (right)
has two floors of arches and
seats for 12,000 spectators.
2 Porte de la
Redoute and
Tour des Mourgues
These battered gate
towers stand either
side of the former Via
Aurelia, the highway
which ran all the way
from Arles to Rome.
3 Église
St-Trophime 6 Théâtre
Antique
This spectacular All that now remains
Romanesque church of the Roman theatre,
(left), with its beautiful once the hub of
carved stonework, was Arles, are these
originally devoted to two graceful
St Stephen (see p40). columns
In the 10th century (right), also
it became the church known as the
of St Trophimus. “two widows”.
ARLES ARENA
Les Arènes was built to
stage the gory gladiator 4 Thermes de Constantin
A semi-circular apse marks
contests so loved by the the site of the once-palatial bathhouse
Romans. Today, from built in the 4th century, in the reign of
late April until end of Emperor Constantine.
September, it hosts plays,
concerts, sporting events, Cryptoportiques
and, most famously,
bullfights. Most contests
5 du Forum
are Provençal-style, in
This amazing labyrinth
which the bull is not of chambers beneath the
harmed, although ancient Forum was the
Spanish-style corridas city’s granary, carved out
do also take place. of the ground during the
1st century BC.
Roman Arles ❮❮ 17
7 Musée
4 ôn
e
r R
h Roman Arles
Départemental Ri
ve
BRE
RU E CO N D O R C E T
Arles Antique
1 km EM
S EP T
(0.6 miles)
RE
Highlights of the finest 7 1
AT
U
DU Q
S
RUE
CO M B E
collection of Roman ARLES R . D U R EFUGE
RUE
ES
sculpture in Provence
A R ÈN
ES
RUE DES A R ÈN
RON
include a statue of
E
8
EMIL
D E L' H OT E L D E V
ES
D-
PO
Venus and a massive 5 RUE D E LA C AL A
D
IN T D
D
Altar of Apollo. There’s 9
E VA R
E
also a Roman barge
BOUL
that was found on the 2
I L LE
bed of the Rhône river.
3 6 0 700 metres
(766 yards)
0 Les Alyscamps
This long avenue of
marble sarcophagi marks
the site of the Roman
necropolis where the city’s
dignitaries were buried.
Among the many legends
surrounding the site, it
is claimed that Christ
appeared here at the
burial of St Trophimus,
the first bishop of Arles.
8 Place
Forum
du
9 Egyptian
Obelisk
Nothing remains today Decorated with sculpted
but the name of the lions (right), the square-
Forum, the market which sided obelisk is likely to
was the very heart of have been a trophy
Roman Arles. However from Rome’s conquest
the Place du Forum is of Egypt during the
still the hub of the town. reign of Augustus.
NEED TO KNOW adm: cloister €4.50 (under Les Alyscamps: av des

18s free) Alyscamps; open daily (times
MAP B4
are the same as for Thermes
Les Arènes: rond-point des Musée Départemental Arles
de Constantin); adm €4.50
Arènes; open daily; Nov– Antique: av de la 1ère
Division Française Libre; Cryptoportiques du Forum:
Feb: 10am–5pm; Mar–Apr &
open 10am–6pm Wed– pl de la Republique; open
Oct: 9am–6pm; May–Sep:
9am–7pm; closed 1 Jan, 1 Mon; closed 25 Dec; adm €8 daily (times are the same as
for Thermes de Constantin);
May, 1 Nov, 25 Dec; adm €9 Thermes de Constantin: rue adm €4.50
Église St-Trophime: pl de du Grand Prieuré; open daily,
la République; open daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm; Mar– • Save on entry fees with
Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm; Mar– Apr & Oct: 9am–6pm; May– a Pass Liberté, available for
Apr & Oct: 9am–6pm; May– Jun: 10:30am–4:30pm; Jul– €12. It allows entry to up
Jun: 10:30am–4:30pm; Sep: 9am–7pm; closed 1 Jan, to five sights and is valid
Jul–Sep: 9am–7pm; 1 Nov, 25 Dec; adm €5 for one month.
Aix-en-Provence
Aix-en-Provence is a sophisticated town. Whether in the dignified
squares and little streets of the Old Quarter or amid the elegant
town houses and tree-lined avenues of the 17th- and 18th-century
district, the atmosphere is self-consciously graceful. But it’s
also lively and fresh: students, studying at one of France’s oldest
universities, are ubiquitous. The calendar of artistic events is rich,
and the markets are the best in the region. The Romans called the
town “Aquae Sextiae”, after the thermal springs which still flow here.
Cours
Mirabeau 1
Created in 1650, Aix’s
majestic main avenue
(right) is a tunnel of
greenery created by
giant plane trees. In their
shade stand tall town
houses and, on the
northern side, smart,
lively cafés. A series of
fountains adds freshness
to the grandeur.
2 Rue Gaston-
de-Saporta
Running from the town
hall to the cathedral is
the liveliest thoroughfare
of the Old Quarter,
buzzing with commerce.
4 Mont Sainte-
Victoire EXPLORING AIX
This mountain (below) Start at the Office du
east of Aix, at 1,000 m Tourisme, close to the
(3,300 ft) high and 7 km Rotonde fountain on
(11 miles) across, exerts place du Général-de-
an almost mystical power Gaulle.Pick up the
over the region. Cézanne walking tour leafet “In
(see p44) was so obsessed the Steps of Cézanne”
here. Alternatively, stroll
by its changing moods
up cours Mirabeau to No.
that he painted it more 55 (Cézanne’s father’s
than 60 times. On its hat shop, now a bank)
northern slopes is the and enter the Old Quarter
Château de Vauvenargues, through the tiny passage
former home and burial Agard. Return for a drink
3 Atelier
Cézanne
de place of Picasso (see p45). at the Café des Deux
Garçons, No. 53 cours
Cézanne’s studio, from Mirabeau, where
1902 until his death, has Cézanne met with other
been left as it was – a artists. Chic shops are in
jumble of artist’s tools, Quartier Mazarin, on the
furniture and still-life other side of the road.
subjects (above).
Aix-en-Provence ❮❮ 19
5 Quartier
Mazarin 9 Cathédrale
St-Sauveur
It was here that 17th- This is the focal point of
and 18th-century Aix medieval Aix. Notable
nobility built some of features are an octagonal,
their finest town houses. 5th-century baptistry,
Within this tranquil 12th-century carved
district of ornamental cloisters (left) and
façades, small galleries the wonderful Buisson
and antiques shops, the Ardent (Burning Bush)
discreet air of old money triptych painted in 1476
remains palpable. by Nicolas Froment.
0 Pavillon
de Vendôme
Obliged to enter holy
7 Granet XXe
The 16th-century
orders, local cardinal
Louis de Mercoeur built
Chapelle des Pénitents this villa as a love-nest
Blancs is the airy setting for his mistress in 1665.
for the collection of Jean Its size, decorated façade
Planque, on long-term and extensive gardens,
loan to the Granet. View however, suggest a
over 300 works by artists somewhat open secret.
such as Renoir, Monet, It now houses contem-
Van Gogh and Picasso. porary art exhibitions.
8 Aix Market
The vast and
Aix-en-Provence
9
900 metres
colourful Aix market (980 yards)
3 B D. A R I S T I D E B R I A N D
colonizes all the town’s 0 C
RU IERR
old squares on Tuesday, 240 metres

OU
P
R. MIGNE T
EM EC
RS
Thursday and Saturday

AR URI
ST
(270 yards)
- LO
IE E
2 4
ET
mornings. From the

UI
S
S PLACE DES
RUE DE S
place de Verdun via CO R D E L I E R
ORMEAUX
18km
Musée Granet the place des Prêcheurs PLACE DU (11 miles)
6 VERDUN
8
R. A
Housed in a former to the place de l’Hôtel de

R.
PLACE ST-
UD
TH
HONORE
E
priory, built in 1671, Ville, the streets come

IER
IAT
R
PA
S
PLACE
R. ES 7
this museum displays alive with stalls selling AU FORBIN
R.
IRABE
S M
I TA
CO U R
European art from the fresh produce, clothes
LI
E
16th to 19th centuries. and antiques. 1 5 6
NEED TO KNOW Oct–May: noon–6pm 10am–12:30pm & 1:30–

Tue–Sun; closed 1 Jan, 5pm Wed–Mon (to 6pm
MAP D4 • Office du
1 May, 25 Dec; adm €6 mid-Apr–mid-Oct); closed
Tourisme: 300 av Giuseppe
Verdi; 04 42 16 11 61; Atelier de Cézanne: av Paul Jan; adm €3.70
www.aixenprovence Cézanne; open Oct–Mar: Granet XXe: pl Jean-Boyer;
tourism.com 9:30am–12:30pm & 2–5pm open as Musée Granet;
Tue–Sat (to 6pm Apr– adm €5.50
Cathédrale St-Sauveur: Jun & Sep, 9:30am–6pm
34 pl des Martyrs de la Jul & Aug); closed 1–3 • Aix is traditionally
Résistance; open 8am– Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec; adm associated with calissons –
6pm daily; adm to cloisters €6.50; www.cezanne-en- yellow candied sweets
Musée Granet: pl St-Jean- provence.com made with ground almonds
de-Malte; open Jun–Sep: Pavillon de Vendôme: and fruit, and topped with
10am–7pm Tue–Sun, 32 rue Célony; open a layer of icing.
Vieux Nice
Foreign aristocrats and the rich and famous may have colonized other
parts of the city, but Vieux Nice belongs firmly to the Niçois, who claim
it with Mediterranean gusto. Tiny streets throb with arm-waving
commerce, and Baroque architecture slots into a warren of hanging
washing, galleries, craft workshops and food stalls. The noise, mouth-
watering aromas and vivid colours recall the city’s long links with
Italy – Nice became French in 1860. The lively atmosphere lasts well
into the night in the many trendy bars, restaurants and clubs here.
1 Cathédrale Cours Saleya

Ste-Réparate 3 The great square
When the Dukes of (or rather, oblong) (right)
Savoy ruled Nice they bursts into life every
worshipped in this Tuesday to Sunday
soaring, 17th-century morning with the world-
church. It boasts a famous flower market.
majestic polychrome Come evening, bar and
cupola (below) and, restaurant terraces buzz.
within, the extravagance On Monday mornings
of the stuccoed Baroque the flower market is
decor is breathtaking. replaced by an antiques
and flea market. This is
Vieux Nice’s focal point,
colourful and vigorous.
4 Palais
Lascaris
Nice’s most sumptuous
17th-century Baroque
palace is now home to
an exceptional museum
of historic musical
7 Chapelle de la
Miséricorde
instruments. If you see only one of
Nice’s Baroque churches,
5 Colline
Château
du make sure it is this one.
The splendour of the
The castle that was once decoration (below) makes
here was destroyed in it one of the world’s best
1706, but the hill still examples of the style.
boasts splendid views.
A botanical park covers
the slope below.
2 Rue St-
François-
6 Place
de-Paule St-François
This busy thoroughfare is This delightful square,
home to two of the city’s overseen by an 18th-
best-loved institutions: century clock tower and
Maison Auer, a wonderful a Baroque palace, is the
chocolaterie, at No. 7, site of the fish and herb
and Alziari, the olive and market, held around the
“grand cru” olive oil dolphin fountain (open
specialists, at No. 14. Tuesday to Sunday).
Vieux Nice ❮❮ 21
8 Opéra de Nice
This ornate 9 Rue Pairolière
In this charming
building is home to narrow street (right),
ballet, classical music food shops spill over with
and opera. The theatre, socca (pancakes), salt
designed by François cod and spicy meats,
Aune, a pupil of Gustave jostling for space amid
Eiffel, was reconstructed Provençal fabrics and
in 1885 following a fire jewellery. Stroll through
which entirely destroyed the crowds, soaking up
the original. It was the exciting mix of
classified a monument aromas, colours and
historique in 1993. Niçois accents.
BAROQUE
CHURCHES
Vieux Nice is celebrated
for its Baroque churches.
In addition to those
mentioned here, there
are several others worth
visiting: Ste-Rita (rue
de la Poisonnerie); Gesù
(rue Droite); St-Martin-
St-Augustin (pl St-
Augustin); St-François-
de-Paule (rue St-
François-de-Paule);
St-Suaire (rue St-Suaire)
and the Chapelle des
Pénitents Rouges (rue
Jules Gilly – Latin Mass
every Sunday morning).
NEED TO KNOW 0 Quartier du Malonat

Daily life courses through the
MAP H4 Office du Tourisme:
•
tiny streets and squares, and beneath
5 prom des Anglais; 04 92 14 46 14; the washing and trompe l’oeil house
en.nicetourisme.com decorations in the most authentic
Palais Lascaris: 15 rue Droite; open sector of Vieux Nice.
10am–6pm Wed–Mon
Vieux Nice 6
Chapelle de la Miséricorde: cours Saleya;
open 2:30–5:30pm Tue
STE
PTI
OLIERE
-BA
Cathédrale Ste-Réparate: pl Rossetti;

AN
PAIR
open 9am–noon & 2–6pm Tue–Fri;

-J E
9
T
9am–noon & 2–7:30pm Sat; 9am–1pm

.S
R.
AV
IE R S
& 3–6pm Sun (closed during Mass) E

SER E DES
A UR ÈS T
F. F UR LLE
RUR
A V. J A R . CO
Opéra de Nice: 4–6 rue Saint-François de
RU
AN
J E CHE
E
R AT
Paule; 04 92 17 40 79 RD AR 4
E PA
VA M RUE ROSSET TI
LE E
U 1
R . S TE- R
R. D
BO
RUE D
• Save energy: take the free lift PLACE
E
LA
P REFEC T
0
DU PALAIS
up Colline du Château from Quai RUE A. MAR
I
U RE
3
des Etats-Unis. 2 7
COURS S A L E YA
• Vieux Nice is for pedestrians only; Q U A I D E S E TAT S - U N I S 5
there’s parking on pl Masséna. 450 metres
8 (490 yards)
Following pages Boats moored at Nice harbour

St-Tropez
Within the space of a short stroll it is easy to see why this sun-
soaked, congenial fishing village, with its pretty harbour, red-tiled
houses and fabulous sandy beaches, seduced the painters, writers
and free spirits that made it famous. Despite all its hype as a
world-famous tourism mecca of the rich and famous, “St-Trop”
retains a good deal of its original charm – brightly painted fishing
boats still moor in the Port de Pêche, although today they are
increasingly outnumbered by gleaming yachts.
ARTISTIC MECCA
How did St-Tropez
transform itself from
undiscovered fishing
village to holiday
hotspot? Painter Paul
Signac (see p41) must
take half the blame:
he arrived on his yacht
in 1887, fell in love with
the light and colour and
decided to stay. Other
painters followed, along
with writers and would-
be artists, attracted by
warm weather and easy
1 Notre-Dame-de-
l’Assomption 2 Vieux Port
The quayside of
living. The film industry This ebullient Italian the Old Port, quai Jean
discovered the St-Trop Baroque church, built Jaurès (above), is lined
scene in the 1950s, with in the early 1800s, with leisure vessels year-
the jet set following in contains a gilded bust round. In summer the
its wake. Brigitte Bardot of the town’s patron waterside buzzes with
became its ultimate saint, Tropez (or Torpès). artists, and pedestrians
symbol in the Swinging According to legend, the hoping to spot a celeb.
Sixties and the place has Roman legionary
never looked back.
converted to Christianity
and was martyred by
3 Citadel
The 17th-century
Emperor Nero. His body ramparts surround a fort
was pushed out to sea built to protect the village
by the Romans before from Barbary corsairs.
washing up where the The citadel also has the
town now stands. Musée d’Histoire Maritime.
St-Tropez and the church of

Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption
St-Tropez ❮❮ 25
NEED TO KNOW Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption: • Le Café on place des

MAP F5 Office du
• rue Commandant Guichard; Lices, earlier the Café des
Tourisme: quai Jean open 9:30am–noon daily Arts, is where St-Tropez’s
Jaurès; 04 94 97 45 21 Musée de l’Annonciade: artists hung out in the
Open Oct–Apr: 9:30am– Pl Georges Grammont; open 1950s and 1960s heyday.
Jan–Mar & Nov–Dec: 10am– • Visit the place des Lices
1pm & 2–5:30pm Mon–
Sat; May–Sep: 9:30am– 5pm Tue–Sun; Apr–Jun & Oct: on Tuesday or Saturday
6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Jul–Sep: morning, when the square
Sun; www.sainttropez 10am–7pm daily (mid-Jul– is filled with antiques,
tourisme.com Sep: to 9pm Mon); adm €6 flowers and fruit stalls.
4 La Fontanette
The small La Fontanette beach, just east of 9 Sentier des
Douaniers
La Ponche, is not as stunning as those further afield, The “Customs Officers’
but is the only one within walking distance of the town. Path” is part of a longer
It is ideal for a swim while you are exploring St-Tropez. coastal path with spec-
tacular views of the Côte
Place des Musée de
5 Lices 7 l’Annonciade
d’Azur. The many tiny
pebbly or sandy bays offer
This market square, Close to the Vieux Port, bathing opportunities
immortalized by the a pretty 16th-century away from the crowds.
painter Charles Camoin chapel has been wonder- Energetic walkers can
(see p44), still has some fully converted to house follow the path for 35 km
of the atmosphere that a world-class collection (21 miles) to Cavalaire.
he captured in his work. of paintings by famous
Crowded with open-air artists connected with
café tables, and shaded St-Tropez, including
by plane trees, it is the Bonnard, Derain, Dufy,
perfect place in which Matisse, Rouault and
to watch locals playing Signac (see p42).
pétanque (boules).
6 Tour Suffren 8 Plages de

Tahiti and
Built in AD 880 by Pampelonne
Guillaume I, Duke of St-Tropez’s beaches
Provence, this round
tower overlooking the
begin 4 km (2.5 miles)
southeast of the town,
0 La Ponche
La Ponche (above)
harbour was once part on a long bay, the Anse is the core of the original
of a larger castle, the de Pampelonne (see fishing village. With
Château Suffren. The p54). The 9-km (5-mile) narrow streets, painted
tower overlooks the sweep of sand is divided shutters and ochre walls,
fishing harbour where into smaller stretches, it looks much as it did
old boats are moored. each with its own name. before tourism arrived.
The Camargue
Black bulls, white horses and pink flamingoes: these are the classic
images of the Camargue delta where the Rhône meets the sea
and France’s only cowboys gallop across the flattest land in France.
It’s a 1,000 sq km (386 sq miles) zone of lagoons, salt flats and
marshes; remote, romantic and rich in birdlife. Large stretches
are protected and inaccessible, but open to all are the beautiful
nature views and stunning sunsets.
1 Abbaye de
St-Gilles 3 Domaine de
la Palissade
This once-vast medieval Visitors can explore the
abbey, in St-Gilles-du- rich flora and fauna of
Gard, was severely dam- this natural reserve
aged in 1562. The carved either on foot (walks
façade (below), one of range from 30 minutes
Provence’s most beautiful, to 3 hours 30 minutes
has survived intact. in duration) or, from April
to October, in the saddle
on a Camargue horse.
4 Musée de la
Camargue
A converted sheep barn
in Mas du Pont de Rousty
is a fine setting for a little
museum dealing with
the interaction of man
and nature in the
Camargue, from the
19th century to today.
5 Les-Saintes-
Maries-de- 6 Domaine
Méjanes
de
la-Mer The banks of Vaccarès
The tiny main street of lagoon are a good place
2 The Salt Pans
The largest salt
this old village teem with to spy Camargue white
crowds in summer, but its horses and flamingoes.
pans in Europe (below), seaside charm remains
in the southeast of the intact. The May pilgrimage
Camargue region, cover of the Romani people CAMARGUE
100 sq km (40 sq miles) BIRDLIFE
marks the legendary
and produce 800,000 arrival of Mary Magdalene, The Camargue is a
tonnes of salt a year. Mary Jacoby, Mary Salome paradise for birdwatchers,
Reach the great mounds and their servant Sara, particularly in spring
of salt via a little train at who is patron saint of when migrant birds visit
Salin d’Aigues Mortes. Romani peoples. on their journey north.
The iconic flamingoes
stalk the delta’s shallow
lagoons, but there are
other birds as well. This is
the only French breeding
site of the slender-billed
gull; the red-crested
pochard also breeds here.
The Camargue ❮❮ 27
7 Parc
Ornithologique 1
St-Gilles-
du-Gard Arles
The Camargue
du Pont-de-Gau D5 72
D5
70
Next to the information 4
7
7 D3
centre is this splendid 6
Étang
bird park (below).
Gr
N5
de Vaccarès
and D 3 6
68
D35
Aviaries dotted around 2 9
R hô
Rhône
two acres of marshland
ne
Les Stes-Maries- 8
house unusual birds de-la-Mer Port St Louis
that are very difficult to du Rhône
spot in the wild. 5 0 3
9 Parc Naturel
Régional de
Camargue
The HQ of the Camargue
National Nature Reserve
of the Vaccarès lagoon
and surrounding area is
in La Capelière, and has
displays on ecosystems
and climate. Nature
trails and observation
posts let you test out
your new knowledge.
0 Plage de
Beauduc
The “beach at the end
of the world” (below) is
the spot for wild camping
and wild watersports in
summer. Vehicles are
not permitted here.
8 Port St Louis du Rhône

This port town has an 18th-
century tower, which once served as a
look-out post. The tower now houses
an ornithological museum and offers
superb views of the salt marshes.
NEED TO KNOW Salin d’Aigues Mortes: times vary, check

04 66 73 40 24; open Apr– website for details;
MAP A4 Parc
•
Nov; adm €11 (museum www.portsaintlouis-
Ornithologique: Pont-
and train) tourisme.fr
de-Gau; www.parc
ornithologique.com Parc Naturel Régional Domaine de la Palissade:
de Camargue: La Capelière; Salin de Giraud; open
Open daily (except 25 Dec)
04 90 97 00 97; open Mar–Oct: daily, Nov &
Adm €7.50 Apr–Sep: daily, Oct–Mar: Feb: Wed–Sun; adm €3,
Wed–Mon; adm €4
Musée de la Camargue: riding tours from €20;
Mas du Pont de Rousty; Port St Louis www.palissade.fr
open Mon–Fri (Feb–Oct: du Rhône (Office du
• For the real Camargue
daily); closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Tourisme): Tour Saint
25 Dec, adm €7; www. Louis–Quai Bonnardel; experience be sure to
museedelacamargue.com 04 42 86 01 21; open visit a manade (farm).
Vaison-la-Romaine
Vaison is a delightful town, boasting a magnificent array of Roman
relics, including a graceful single-arched bridge that miraculously
survived the devastating floods of the Ouvèze river in 1992. Founded
by the Celtic Vocontii tribe, the town was named Vasio Vocontiorum
after the Roman conquest, and for four centuries it flourished until
the collapse of the empire, when the original site was abandoned
for the safer precincts of the walled Ville Haute and its castle on
the opposite bank of the Ouvèze. Between 1907 and 1955, a local
abbot, Chanoine Sautel, excavated the Roman city.
1 Puymin
Named for the hill
on which it stands, this
district (left) was the
most important part
of the town in Roman
times, containing the
praetorium (court house),
a theatre, temples and
shops. There are also
several well-preserved
houses that can be
explored. A broad road
runs from the theatre
to the main gate.
2 Maison des Messii

The House of the Messii must 5 Musée Théo Desplans
A muscular, life-size marble
once have been home to one of the nude of the Emperor Hadrian
town’s most important families. (left), a statue of his empress
Columns and the foundations of Sabina, a gorgeous silver bust
an atrium, baths, a temple to found at the Villasse site, and
household gods, a dining room and a six-seater public latrine
living rooms can all still be seen. are among the more
interesting archaeological
3 House with
the Silver Bust
finds in this excellent
small museum.
Named after a statue found
here and now on show in
the museum, the ruins of
6 Portico
of Pompey
this once grand, mosiac- This impressive portico, built
floored villa are enhanced by by the family of Caesar’s great
copies of statues found here rival Pompey, is a huge, 65-m
and elsewhere on the site. (210-ft) array of columns,
which originally surrounded
4 House with
the Dolphin
an inner garden. Built around
AD 20, it was demolished
The House with the Dolphin was during the 5th century. Copies
named after the marble statue of of statues that originally stood
Cupid riding a dolphin found on the site now grace the
here, now in the museum. niches – the originals
The villa once had a façade are preserved in the
supported by 18 columns. nearby museum.
Vaison-la-Romaine ❮❮ 29
7 Théâtre
Antique
NEED TO KNOW
The 1st-century AD MAP C2 • Office
theatre (below) is a du Tourisme: pl du
dazzling display of Chanoine Sautel; 04 90
Roman building skill, 36 02 11; www.vaison-
with 34 semi-circular
rows of stone benches, ventoux-tourisme.com
seating up to 7,000 Roman ruins,
spectators, rising to Puymin and Musée
a columned portico.
Theo Desplans: pl du
Chanoine Sautel; open
9:30am–12:30pm &
2–5:30pm daily; closed
Jan–mid-Feb; adm €9
• The modern district
of Vaison is filled
with numerous chic
pavement cafés.
• Wear comfortable
shoes, a sun hat and
sunscreen, and carry
a bottle of water –
especially during
high summer.
8 Nymphaeum
The Nymphaeum 9 Haute Ville
and the
was a rectangular sacred Pont Romain
pool with a fountain, Vaison’s 2,000-year-old
which was covered by Roman bridge connects
a roof supported by four the upper town on the
columns. Traces of the south bank with the
building still remain, as north bank of the
does the sacred spring Ouvèze. The prettily
which provided the water restored old quarter
supply. It now forms an (below), with its 17th-
elegant backdrop to an century town houses,
open-air theatre. courtyards and fountains,
is ringed by ramparts
and entered through a
massive, 14th-century
stone gateway.
0 Château
At the highest
point of the old town
stands a dramatic, part-
ruined castle (above),
built in 1160 by the Count
of Toulouse. Three main
wings and a formidable
keep tower surround an
inner courtyard.
Abbaye Notre-Dame
de Sénanque
Surrounded by the lavender fields of the Luberon, this lovely
abbey exudes tranquillity, but its past was anything but peaceful.
Founded in 1148, Sénanque’s golden age was the 13th century, but
in 1544 it was torched by heretic Vaudois, in 1580 it was stricken by
the plague, and by the 17th century only two monks were left. The
French Revolution and the anti-monastic laws of the 19th century
were equally harsh
but, since the 1970s,
the abbey’s fortunes
have been restored,
and a small commu-
nity of monks is now
in residence here.
1 Apse
The three
windows of the raised,
semi-circular apse sym-
bolize the Holy Trinity.
2 Nave and
Transept
The barrel-vaulted nave
(below) and aisles of
Sénanque are five bays
long, and three stone
steps lead from the nave
to the square crossing,
with its eight-sided dome.
4 Abbey Shop
The Cistercians 5 Channels
The Cistercians
believe in work as well came to this plateau
as prayer, and the fruits seeking isolation, and
of their labours are here. built their abbey next to
This shop sells their own the region’s only river,
lavender essential oil and the Senancole. They
honey from their hives, channelled the water to
and books and products flow through and under
made in other convents the abbey, providing
and monasteries sanitation and irrigation
across France. for the gardens.
Cloister
The dove-grey
3
limestone columns of the
cloister (right), decorated
with delicate carvings of
leaves, flowers and vines,
are superb works of
craftsmanship, dating
back from 1180 to 1220.
Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque ❮❮ 31
7 Dormitory
The dormitory ST BERNARD AND
is a huge, vaulted space, THE CISTERCIANS
paved with flagstones. With their complete
Arched windows (left) lack of decoration or
at regular intervals along comfort, Provence’s
its walls and two large, most outstanding
circular windows at Romanesque
each end make this monasteries, Sénanque,
Silvacane (see p82)
otherwise austere room
and Le Thoronet (see
feel pleasantly light p88), reflect the austere
and airy. ideals of the Cistercian
order, founded in 1098
8 Tomb of
the Seigneur
by St Bernard, abbot
of Clairvaux in north-
de Venasque east France. Rejecting
In one corner of the east the ostentation and
arm of the transept is luxury of the powerful
the only non-Cistercian Benedictine order,
element of the church – St Bernard advocated
a Gothic tomb marks the a rigorous and pure
burial place of Geoffroy, monastic life within
the 13th-century Lord of simple, yet graceful and
harmonious buildings.
Venasque and at one time
the abbey’s benefactor.
9 Lavender
Fields
NEED TO KNOW
The abbey of Notre- MAP C3 • 04 90 72 18
Dame de Sénanque 24 • www.senanque.fr
• Spiritual retreats: email
is surrounded by fields
of lavender (left), which frere.hotelier@ndsenan
make a spectacular que.org
setting for the buildings Open non-guided visits:
in the summer. 10–11am & 1–5pm Mon–
Sat, 1–5pm Sun; guided
tours (in French, plus
HistoPad tablet available
in 10 languages): book
online at least 48 hours
ahead; arrive 10 mins
before tour. Mass: 8:30am
Mon, 11:45am Tue–Sat,
10am Sun & bank hols.
Closed mid-Nov–Jan (am),
Ascension (sixth Sun after
Easter), 15 Aug, 1 Nov,
during snow.
6 Calefactory
The calefactory 0 Chapterhouse
The walls of the
Adm: €8.50 (tours)
and scriptorium reflects square chapterhouse, • The most striking
St Bernard’s injunctions are lined with stone approach to Sénanque
against luxury: with two seats (above). Here the is from Gordes, with a
fireplaces, this was the monks sat each day to panorama of the abbey
only heated room in the hear the abbot read a as the road descends
monastery, which enabled chapter from the Rule into the craggy valley in
monks to read without of St Benedict or a which Sénanque stands.
their hands freezing. sermon from the Bible.
St-Paul-de-Vence
Set in alpine hinterland with panoramic views of the Riviera
coast, the medieval village of St-Paul-de-Vence (one of the oldest
in the region) sits in a breathtaking location. It has been a magnet
for artists and art lovers since the 1920s; Picasso, Dufy, Matisse
and Chagall were among the artists who regularly visited to
unleash their creativity. The village’s maze of medieval streets,
full of modern and contemporary art galleries and workshops,
is a delight to stroll through.
1 Fondation
Maeght 3 Rue Grande
Running between
Home to one of Europe’s the Porte de Vence and
largest collections of 20th- Porte de Nice, the rue
century art, Fondation Grande is St-Paul’s main
Maeght was set up by thoroughfare. It is lined
Cannes art dealers Aimé with the studios and
and Marguerite Maeght. workshops of local artists
Their private art collec- and artisans. The street
tion formed the basis of resembles an open-air
the foundation. art museum where you
can admire the work of
cutting-edge talents in
the windows of upscale
commercial galleries.
4 Les Remparts
Visitors can walk
around the village’s
well-preserved 16th-
century ramparts –
originally built to resist
assault from Savoy and St-Paul-de-Vence village
Piedmont – and enjoy
a panoramic view of
the vineyards and olive 6 Place
Gaulle
de
groves that cloak the Locals meet at this square,
surrounding beautiful also known as Place du
hilly countryside. Jeu de Boules, for a
2 Place de
la Grande
5 Chapelle St
friendly game of pétanque
under the plane trees.
Fontaine Charles-St Tournaments take place
Built in 1615, the pretty Claude throughout the summer.
fountain (above) in Place Perched on a promontory
de la Grande Fontaine
is of typical Provençal
above the village’s
ramparts, this chapel
7 Donjon (Tour
de la Mairie)
design. It is one of the was founded in the 17th The dungeon was one of
village’s most photo- century. In the early the first structures built
graphed sights. The 2010s Nice artist Paul in the village and its
square hosted a weekly Conte decorated it with base formed part of the
market in the Middle colourful murals depict- original château. The bell
Ages and has long ing scenes from the lives tower was added in the
been a favourite subject of the saints to whom 1440s. The building now
with artists. the church is dedicated. houses the town hall.
St-Paul-de-Vence ❮❮ 33
8 Cimetière
Marc Chagall, who ARTISTS IN
lived in St-Paul-de-Vence ST-PAUL-DE-VENCE
for almost 20 years, is Attracted by the colours,
the most famous resi- light and sweeping views,
dent of the village’s the first artists to visit
cemetery (left). His St-Paul-de-Vence in the
modest, cedar-shaded 1920s were Paul Signac,
grave is a place of Raoul Dufy and Chaïm
Soutine. They were soon
pilgrimage for admirers,
followed by other greats,
who leave small stones including Matisse, Chagall
in a growing pile as a and Picasso and the village
visible tribute. became a major cultural
hub. Poet and screen
writer Jacques Prévert
lived in a small house
(La Miette) in the village
for 15 years and the
American writer James
Baldwin made the village
his home between 1970
and 1987.
9 La Chapelle
Folon
(Chapelle des
Pénitents Blancs)
Artist Jean-Michel Folon
worked with local arti-
sans to decorate this
17th-century chapel with
stained-glass windows,
sculptures, murals and
mosaics. The chapel is
immaculately preserved
as a celebration of him.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP G4 • Office du Tourisme: 2 rue Grande; 04 93 32 0 Église
Collégiale
86 95; open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm & 2–6pm First built in the 14th
Sat; closed public hols century and completed
• Fondation Maeght: 623 chemin des Gardettes; 04 93 in the 18th century, this
32 81 63; open 10am–6pm daily (Jul–Aug: to 7pm); small church (below)
adm €16 adults; €11 children aged 10–18; free for has as its highlight the
children under 10 1680 Chapelle Saint
• La Chapelle Folon (Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs): Clément, decorated
Pl de l’Église; 04 93 32 86 95; open May–Sep: 10am– in ornate Baroque style.
12:30pm & 2–6pm daily, Oct–April: 10:30am–12:30pm
& 2–4pm daily; closed Nov, 25 Dec, 1 Jan; adm €3, free
for children under 12
• Église Collegiale: Place de l’Église; open 8:15am–
4:15pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat, Sun & public hols
• Eat at La Colombe d’Or (www.la-colombe-dor.com)
on pl du Général de Gaulle (closed end Oct–25 Dec),
a 1920s inn adorned with paintings by artists.
The Top 10
of Everything
Moments in History 36
Roman Sights 38
Places of Worship 40
Art Galleries 42
Magnificent 15th-century frescoes in Notre-Dame des Fontaines, La Brigue

Painters in Provence 44 Places to See and Be Seen 60
Provençal Legends 46 Gourmet Restaurants 62
Provence Villages 48 Vineyards and Distilleries 64
Areas of Natural Beauty 50 Provence for Free 66
Beaches of Provence 52 Festivals and Events 68
Gardens in Provence 54 Offshore Islands 70
Sporting Activities 56
Children’s Activities 58
36 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Moments in History
4 Franks and Saracens
With the fall of the Roman
Empire in AD 476 Provence was
pillaged by barbarians, eventually
coming under the rule of the Franks.
From the 8th century Provence
was raided and attacked by the
Saracens for about 200 years.
They were finally defeated in 973
by Guillaume le Libérateur, Count
of Arles.
5 Dawn of a Dynasty
In 1297 François Grimaldi,
a supporter of the papacy in the
Guelph-Ghibelline feuds which beset
Carvings in the Vallée des Merveilles 13th-century Italy, seized Monaco
and its castle to found the dynasty
1 Early Settlers
Rock carvings found in the
that still rules there today.
Grotte d’Observatoire in Monaco

and paintings in the Grotte Cosquer
6 The Avignon Papacy
Pope Clement V relocated to
near Marseille date from 350,000 BC. Avignon in 1309 to escape strife-torn
Between 2500 and 2000 BC, dwellers Rome, the first of a succession of
in the Vallée des Merveilles (see p114) nine French pontiffs who were to
left behind over 10,000 carvings of reside in the Provençal town.
beasts and figures. In 1348 Clement VI bought the city
and Avignon remained the seat of
2 Foundation of Aix
In 123 BC, Greeks from
the papacy until 1377 (see pp12–13).
Phocaea (modern Turkey), who had

settled in Marseille since 600 BC,
asked Rome for help against the
invading Celtic tribes. After defeating
the Celts, the Romans founded the
town of
Aquae Sextiae
(Aix-en-
Provence)
(see pp18–19).
Roman mosaic
found in Aix-
en-Provence
3 Advent of Christianity
In AD 40 St Honorat brought
Christianity to Provence, founding
the first monastery on Île de Lérins.
Camarguais legend, however, claims
that Christianity was introduced
to Provence by Mary Magdalene
herself (see p39). Pope Clement V at Avignon
Moments in History ❮❮ 37
TOP 10 FIGURES IN HISTORY

1 Julius Caesar
Caesar besieged Marseille after its
citizens sided with his biggest political
rival Pompey in 49 BC.
2 François Grimaldi
Grimaldi disguised his troops as monks
to seize control of Monaco in 1297.
3 Catherine Ségurane
Known as Catarina Segurana in Niçois,
this brave washerwoman helped lead
Nice’s defence against the Franco-
Ottoman invasion in 1543 (see p46).
4 Petrarch
The renowned Italian Renaissance
poet (1304–74), who spent much of
King René, ruler of Provence his early life in Avignon, was a critic
of the ostentatious French papacy.
7 Union with France

In 1486 King René of Naples,
5 Nostradamus
Born in St-Rémy-de-Provence,
the scholar (1503–66) published
the last of the Anjou dynasty who
his book of prophecies in 1555.
ruled Provence from 1246, died
without issue, and most of the region 6 Napoleon Bonaparte
became part of France. Nice and the Bonaparte landed at Golfe-Juan
on 1 March 1815 to regain his empire,
Alpes Maritimes, however, remained
only to be defeated at Waterloo.
part of the Kingdom of Savoy, before
finally passing to France in 1860. 7 Louis-Auguste Blanqui
Born in Puget-Théniers in 1805, the
8 Plague and War

In the second half of the
socialist was one of the leaders of the
revolutionary Paris Commune of 1871.
16th century religious strife erupted 8 Jacques Cousteau
in the Luberon between reforming Toulon-based naval officer Cousteau
perfected the aqualung in the 1940s,
Vaudois and Huguenot factions and
pioneering the sport of scuba diving.
conservative Catholics. The plague
of 1580 added to the region’s woes. 9 Antoine de St-Exupéry
The aircraft of the French author
and pilot vanished in 1944 while on
9 La Marseillaise
When the French Revolution
a reconnaissance flight over Provence.
erupted in July 1789, the citizens of 10 Simone Veil
Marseille were among its staunchest Born in Nice, Veil (1927–2017) served as
Health Minister of France in the 1970s
supporters, marching to a tune that and advanced women’s legal rights.
became known as “La Marseillaise”,
now France’s national anthem.
0 Resistance
and Liberation
After the Nazi invasion of 1940,
Provence was ruled by the collabor
ationist Vichy government, until it was
occupied by Germany and Italy in
1942. Guerrilla fighters in the maquis
(scrubland) resisted the Occupation.
On 15 August 1944, Allied troops
landed, liberating Provence after Simone Veil
two weeks of fighting.
Roman Sights
Seyne-
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Vaison-la-
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D951 ALPES-
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A7
VAUCLUSE Les Mées
N8
Lurs Touet-sur-Var
Avignon
5
A51
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A9 D6 20 2
D90
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Riez Castellane
Rougon La Turbie
Pertuis D6
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D13
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Salon de
D5
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54
A8
Provence Antibes
BOUCHES-
DU-RHONE A8 Aix-en-Provence VAR Draguignan
St-Chamas N7
Cannes
Les Arcs
A8
N5
A5 5
68
La Couronne St-Antoine D56 0 Brignoles Fréjus

D25
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N97
A5
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DN
A50 Collobrières
8
Cassis Mediterranean
D98
Toulon
0 km 50 Le Lavandou Sea
Hyères
0 miles 50 Port-Cros
pillars, perhaps scavenged from

another Roman building, are now
in the early Christian church
nearby, which dates from the 4th
or 5th century BC and is one of the
oldest surviving churches in France.
3 La Trophée d’Auguste,
La Turbie
This majestic Roman monument
(see p112), built from local white
stone, was erected in 6 BC to mark
Théâtre Antique d’Orange the boundary between Italy and Gaul
and to honour Augustus’s Gallic
1 Théâtre
d’Orange
Antique conquests. Towering over the small
village of La Turbie, high above
One of the best-preserved theatres Monte Carlo, with breathtaking
from the Roman empire (see p125), views over the Riviera, it still has
built during the reign of Augustus the power to impress.
(c.27–25 BC), is the highlight of the
Parc de la Colline St-Eutrope. A
triumphal arch decorated with relief
4 Les Arènes de Fréjus
MAP F4 Rue H Vadon •
carvings commemorates Julius • Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–12:30pm &

Caesar’s victories over Gaul. 2–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–
noon & 2–4:30pm Tue–Sat
2 Temple
MAP E3
of Apollo, Riez • Closed public hols • Adm
Like other large Roman arenas in

The four Corinthian columns of the Provence, the amphitheatre at Fréjus
1st-century-AD temple to Apollo, (see p87), which can seat up to 10,000
standing tall and alone among fields people, is still used regularly for bull-
just outside Riez on the Valensole fights and classical music concerts.
plateau, are all that remain of the It was originally built in the 1st and
once-prosperous Roman settlement 2nd centuries AD. Nearby are parts
of Reia Apollinaris. Eight ancient of the original Roman wall.
Roman Sights ❮❮ 39
7 Arc de Triomphe,
Cavaillon
MAP C3
This twin-arched triumphal gate,
lavishly adorned with carved vines
and dramatic Corinthian columns,
was built during the reign of the
Emperor Augustus, in the
1st century AD. There are other
interesting Roman finds in the
town’s archaeological museum.
Glanum, near St-Rémy
Les Antiques de Glanum

5 Twin temples, a Roman forum, 8 Arles
Remnants of Provence’s most
important Roman settlement (see
baths and a fortified gate can be seen pp16–17) can still be seen in numer-
at Glanum, near St-Rémy (see p83), ous spots around this lovely town.
which also has traces of a 4th-century
Greek settlement. A triumphal arch
(10 BC) marks Gallic victories.
9 Pont Flavien, St-Chamas
One of the best-preserved
Roman bridges in France, Pont
6 Pont du Gard
MAP A3
Flavien (see p84) was built in a single
arch over the River Touloubre in the
The Romans considered this 49-m- 1st century AD, as part of Emperor
(160-ft-) high three-tiered bridge to Augustus’s Via Julia Augusta, which
be clear testimony to their empire’s linked Piacenzia (Palantia) in Italy
greatness. The top tier was part of to Arles. Many Roman bridges had
an aqueduct that supplied Nîmes triumphal arches at either end, but
with water for up to 500 years. this is the only one with arches that
Constructed in the 1st century AD have survived intact.
from dressed stone blocks without
mortar, the bridge is an incredible
275 m (900 ft) long and represents
0 Vaison-la-Romaine
Another Roman gem,
an astonishing feat of engineering. discovered in 1907 (see pp28–9).
Magnificent Pont du Gard, spanning the Gardon river

Places of Worship
Frescoed interior of Notre-Dame des Fontaines
1 Notre-Dame des
Fontaines, La Brigue
painted in 1601: The Crown of
Thorns, The Crucifixion of Christ
MAP H2 • Rue Notre-Dame des and The Deposition of St Helena.
Fontaines • Open mid-Apr–Sep:
10am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm
• Closed Thu • Adm
4 Église
Arles
St-Trophime,
This chapel, 4 km (2.5 miles) from La This is one of the most attractive of
Brigue, is covered with remarkable all Provençal churches. It’s also one
frescoes by Giovanni Canavesio and of the oldest – a church stood here as
Giovanni Baleison, dating from 1492. early as AD 450. In the 11th century
the church (see p16) was rebuilt and
2 Chapelle des Pénitents
Blancs, Les-Baux-de-
dedicated to St Trophime.
Provence
MAP B4 • Open 10am–5pm daily
(Apr–Sep: to 7pm)
Frescoes in this simple chapel,
painted in 1974 by local artist Yves
Brayer, depict a typical Provençal
nativity scene with shepherds.
More of Brayer’s work can be seen
in the nearby museum (see p82).
3 Notre-Dame-du-Puy,
Grasse
Carvings on the Église St-Trophime
MAP G4 • 8 pl du Petit Puy • Open

Oct–Mar: 9am–noon & 2–5pm Mon– 5 Notre-Dame-de-
Nazareth, Vaison-
Sat; Apr–Sep: 9am–noon & 2–5pm la-Romaine
Mon, 10am–noon & 1–6pm Tue–Sat MAP C2 • Rue Alphonse Daudet
Fragonard’s Christ Washing the • Open Jun–Sep: 9am–6pm daily;
Disciples’ Feet is the main reason other times call 04 90 36 05 65
for visiting this 13th-century church. This evocative 6th-century cathedral
It also contains three magnificent has a superb arcaded apse and
religious works by Rubens, all 12th-century cloister.
Places of Worship ❮❮ 41
6 Église des Saintes-

Maries-de-la-Mer 9 Abbaye de Montmajour
The extraordinary abbey
The bell tower of this fortified of Montmajour (see p82) was built
church is a Camargue landmark. on a rocky island amid the Rhône
The church has lent its name to the marshes. It was an important
capital of the region, and its sturdy pilgrimage site and became wealthy
walls offered refuge from raiders. from selling pardons for sins. The
The most colourful sight within is cloister is decorated with mythical
a carved boat with statues of the and biblical scenes.
Virgin and Mary Magdalene and a
statue of St Sara in the crypt. The
Romani pilgrimage in May (see p26)
marks the legendary arrival of Mary
Magdalene by boat.
7 Cathédrale, Fréjus
Constructed in the pink stone
typical of Fréjus, the 13th-century
cathedral (see p87) has a beautiful
Renaissance doorway. Its interior
is dominated by superb pointed
arches, and the cloister ceiling,
with its scenes of the Apocalypse,
is unique. The stunning Abbaye de Montmajour
8 Notre-Dame-
de-l’Assomption, 0 Chapelle
de Vence
du Rosaire
Puget-Théniers MAP G4 • Open 10am–noon, 2–5pm
MAP G3 • Open 8am–6pm daily Tue, Thu, Fri (Mar–Oct: to 6pm);
Built by the Knights Templar, the 2–5pm Wed, Sat (Mar–Oct: to 6pm);
13th-century parish church of Mass 10am Sun, followed by guided
this mountain village has a lovely tour • Closed 1st two weeks Dec,
triptych altarpiece, Notre-Dame-de- public hols • Adm
Bon-Secours, which depicts the The dazzling white interior walls of
Passion, painted by Antoine Ronzen this little chapel are adorned with
in 1525. The group of wooden black line drawings of the Stations
sculptures have been attributed to of the Cross. They are unmistakably
the sculptor Matthieu d’Anvers or the work of Henri Matisse (see p45),
Flemish or Burgundian craftspeople. who designed this building in 1949.
ARDÉCHE Seyne-les- I TA LY
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Pont St-Esprit ALPES-DE-
Vaison-la- HAUTE-PROVENCE St Etienne
Bagnols Romaine
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GARD 1 Digne- ALPES-
A7 Carpentras D95
N8 6
les-Bains MARITIMES
Uzés Lurs Les Puget-
Avignon VAUCLUSE Breil-sur-
Mées Théniers
7
Roya
D90
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Nîmes Cavaillon Manosque
A51
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A9 Les Baux-de-Provence Vence
A
St-Gilles- 5 4
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du-Gard Tourtour
A7
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BOUCHES- A8 VAR
DU-RHONE Cannes
La A8 Fréjus
Église des Saintes- Couronne St-Antoine
D56 0 Brignoles
Maries-de-la-Mer St-Tropez
Marseille 8
D9
7
A50
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La Ciotat Me dite r rane an

0 km 50 Toulon
Hyères
Le Lavandou Sea
Port-Cros
0 miles 50
Art Galleries
array of modern art, including
paintings by Léger, Bonnard and
Chagall, sculpture by Miró and
a mosaic pool by Braque.
5 Musée Bonnard,
Le Cannet
MAP G4 • 16 bd Sadi Carnot
• Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Jul
& Aug: to 8pm daily) • Adm
Pierre Bonnard spent most of 1926–
47 in Le Cannet, and this museum,
Exterior of the Musée National in a belle époque villa, displays some
Marc Chagall, Nice of his finest canvases. Links with
the Musée d’Orsay in Paris bring
1 Musée National
Marc Chagall, Nice
frequent special exhibitions.
One of the jewels of Provence, this

museum (see p97) houses the
6 Musée d’Art Moderne
et d’Art Contemporain
world’s largest collection of works by (MAMAC), Nice
Marc Chagall, including 17 canvases A dazzling work of contemporary
from his Biblical Message series. architecture in its own right, with
marble-faced towers and glass
2 Musée Fernand
Léger, Biot
corridors, the contemporary art
museum (see p95) contains works
Mosaics in primary colours, by some of the 20th century’s
carried out to Léger’s own design, greatest avant-garde artists.
identify this strikingly modern
museum. The Cubist painter planned
to build a studio here just before
7 Musée Matisse, Nice
Founded in 1963, nine years
his death in 1955, and the museum after the painter’s death, the Musée
on the site (see p113) exhibits more Matisse (see p95) is located in the
than 400 of his works. 17th-century Villa des Arènes. There
are sketches, paintings and bronze
3 Musée de l’Annonciade,
St-Tropez
sculpture by Matisse, as well as
some of his personal effects.
This serene former chapel
(see p25) houses a riveting
art collection. Opened in
1955, it boasts works by
Pierre Bonnard, Raoul
Dufy, Paul Signac and
Charles Camoin, whose
St-Tropez, la place des Lices
et le Café des Arts (1925)
is one of the most famous
images of the town.
4 Fondation
Maeght,
St-Paul-de-Vence
This small museum (see
p33) has a world-class The façade of the Musée Matisse, Nice
Art Galleries ❮❮ 43
TOP 10 MASTERPIECES
OF PROVENCE
1 Wagons de Chemin de Fer à Arles
Painted in 1888 by Van Gogh, this work
set in Musée Angladon (see p128) is
only one of his many canvases on
permanent display in this region.
2 La Joie de Vivre
This 1946 work in the Musée Picasso
Les Musées Jean Cocteau, Menton
Antibes (see p104) is one of Picasso’s
most important from his time here.
8 Les Musées Jean
Cocteau, Menton 3 La Partie de Campagne
Fernand Léger’s painting is on display at
MAP H3 • Le Bastion: open 10am–
the Fondation Maeght (see p115).
12:30pm & 2–6pm Wed–Mon; Collec-
tion Séverin Wunderman: closed for 4 Nu Bleu IV
renovation until further notice • Adm This 1952 work in the Musée Matisse
• www.museecocteaumenton.fr
(see p95) is among the best known of
Matisse’s blue paper cut-outs.
Jean Cocteau (1889–1963), a famous
poet, playwright, author and film 5 Coronation of the Virgin
Enguerrand Quarton’s 1453 altarpiece
director, converted a 17th-century
painting can be seen in the town’s
fort (Le Bastion) into his personal Musée Pierre de Luxembourg.
museum. The nearby Collection
Séverin Wunderman houses 1,800 6 Venus Victrix
One of Renoir’s most magnificent
pieces donated by the eponymous
bronzes (1914) stands amid the
art enthusiast and Cocteau devotee olive groves at Les Collettes.
in a futuristic building.
7 Les Baigneuses
Prior to his monumental versions
of The Bathers, Cézanne painted this
smaller scene around 1895. It is on
display at the Musée Granet (see p19).
8 The Burning Bush
Nicolas Froment’s 1476 triptych in the
Cathédrale de St-Saveur (see p19) was
commissioned by Provence’s king, René.
9 La Terrasse à l’Estaque
This early Cubist work (1908) in the
Musée Cantini (see p77) is part of a
Renoir’s studio, Cagnes-sur-Mer trio Raoul Dufy painted of the village.
10 L’Orage
9 Musée Renoir,
Cagnes-sur-Mer Pointillist Paul Signac’s 1895 work in
St-Tropez’s Musée de l’Annonciade
Auguste Renoir’s house (see p105) (see p25) depicts St-Tropez harbour.
at Les Collettes, where the painter
came in hope that the climate would
cure his rheumatism, houses 11
of his paintings. The house is sur-
rounded by beautiful olive groves.
0 Musée Picasso, Antibes

Housed in the Château
Grimaldi, used as a studio by Picasso
in 1946, the museum (see p104) con-
tains more than 50 of his paintings,
sketches, prints and ceramics, as L’Orage by Paul Signac
well as works by Léger and Miró.
Painters in Provence
Van Gogh’s The Red Vineyard Near Arles (1888)
1 Vincent van Gogh

The Dutch Post-Impressionist
4 Fernand Léger
Léger (1881–1955) is known
created hundreds of his most vivid, for his strong Cubist paintings and
powerful landscapes and self- his love of bold lines and pure
portraits during his few years in primary colours. He devoted the later
Arles and St-Rémy. The sunshine years of his life to working in ceramics
of Provence is said to have changed in Biot (see p113), and eventually
the way Van Gogh (1853–90) saw bought a villa in the village.
light and colour.
Yves Klein
2 Born in Iceland, Klein (1928–62) 5 Paul Cézanne
Born in Aix, where he lived
most of his life, Cézanne (1839–1906)
became one of the leading lights of painted hundreds of oil and water-
the Nice School of New Realists, who colour scenes of his home town and
aimed to create art from everyday the nearby Mont Sainte-Victoire (see
materials. His Anthropométries, pp18–19) in his Post-Impressionist
in Nice’s Musée d’Art Moderne et style. He captured the soul of
d’Art Contemporain (see p95), was Provence better than any painter.
created by three nude women,
covered in his signature blue paint,
rolling over a huge white canvas.
3 Marc Chagall
The Russian-born painter
(1887–1985) moved to St-Paul-
de-Vence in 1949. His light-filled
work was often inspired by biblical
themes. Canvases from his Biblical
Message series of paintings are in
the Musée National Marc Chagall
(see p97) in Nice. Cezanne’s François Zola Dam (1877–8)
Painters in Provence ❮❮ 45
6 Raoul Dufy
Dufy (1877–1953) embodies the TOP 10 WRITERS IN PROVENCE
values of the Fauvist school, with its
revolutionary use of bright, intense
colour. He found Nice the perfect
background for his vivid work.
7 Henri Matisse
Matisse (1869–1954) lived in
Nice from 1917 until his death. His
earlier works were inspired by the
vivid light and colours of the Riviera.
During World War II he retreated to
Vence, where he designed the unique Albert Camus
Chapelle du Rosaire (see p41), and 1 Albert Camus
its wonderful Stations of the Cross, This French author and existentialist
vestments and furnishings. (1913–60) wrote his respected
autobiography at Lourmarin.
8 Paul Signac
A master of the Pointillist
2 Alexandre Dumas
Dumas (1802–70) used the Château
style, Signac (1863–1935) came to d’If (see p77) as the grim backdrop
St-Tropez in 1892. He found, in the to The Count of Monte Cristo (1845).
sparkle of sun on sea, the perfect 3 Jean Giono
subject for Pointillism’s technique of Born in Manosque, this son of Provence
using a myriad of tiny rainbow dots (1895–1970) wrote lyrically about the
to depict swathes or blocks of colour. region’s people and landscapes.
4 Frédéric Mistral
This Nobel Prize-winner (1830–1914)
wrote epic poems based on local lore.
5 Alphonse Daudet
Daudet (1849–97) is best remembered
for Tartarin de Tarascon, the popular
tale of a Provençal bumpkin.
6 Graham Greene
The English novelist (1914–91) retired
to Nice, where he wrote J’Accuse –
the Dark Side of Nice (1982).
7 F Scott Fitzgerald
Signac’s Antibes, the Pink Cloud (1916) The US writer (1896–1940) stayed at
Juan-les-Pins in 1926 while he wrote
9 Pablo Picasso
Picasso (1881–1973) was
his novel Tender is the Night.
8 Edith Wharton
influenced by the sights and colours Wharton (1862–1937) spent winters at
of Provence, where he lived in exile her villa in Hyères, where she finished
from his native Spain for much of his The Age of Innocence, the first book by
life. He learned to make ceramics a woman to win the Pulitzer Prize.
from the potters of Vallauris (see 9 Marcel Pagnol
p108) and helped revive the craft. The famous French author and film
director (1895–1974) wrote L’Eau des
0 Paul Guigou
This realist painter (1834–71)
Collines (1963), later filmed as Jean de
Florette and Manon des Sources.
illustrated the landscapes of his native 10 Colette
Vaucluse. Among his best-known Colette (1873–1954) wrote charmingly
works is Deux Lavandières devant la of St-Tropez in La Naissance du Jour
Sainte-Victoire, in the Musée Grobet- (“break of day”), published in 1928.
Labadié in Marseille (see p76).
Provençal Legends
sceptical, so the lad picked up a
rock that 30 strong men couldn’t
shift and carried it to where Pont St-
Bénézet (see p128) was to begin.
4 Avignon’s
Hidden Treasure
Pope John XXII was rumoured to be an
alchemist, who used magic to win his
election. He had an amulet to detect
poison (supposedly because other
churchmen kept trying to kill him) and
made enough gold to fill an under-
ground room. When Benedict XIII, the
last Avignon anti-pope (see p13), was
Red rocky outcrop in Roussillon forced to flee, he walled the room up.
The room, with its treasure, has
1 Roussillon
The red cliffs of Roussillon
never been found.
(see p129) are not coloured by

accident. In medieval times the local
5 StSte-Baume
Maximin-la-
lord’s wife, Sirmonde, fell in love with After reputedly landing in Provence,
a troubadour. The lord had him killed Mary Magdalene spread the
and Sirmonde threw herself off a cliff, Christian word, before spending her
staining the rocks with her blood. last years praying in a cave in the
Ste-Baume mountains. Her remains
2 Man in the Iron Mask
Who was the Man in the Iron
were discovered in the 13th century
and may be seen in a reliquary in
Mask? Louis XIV’s troublesome the Gothic basilica (see p88).
brother? A meddling royal priest?
No one knows. Certainly, he was
dangerous enough to be clamped in
6 Catherine
Nice
Ségurane,
a mask and locked away on Île Ste- Washerwoman Cathérine led Niçois
Marguerite (see p70) from 1687. You resistance against the Turkish fleet
may visit the island fort and see his cell. that besieged the city in 1543. She
knocked out the Turkish standard-
3 Pont d’Avignon
In 1177 a shepherd boy named
bearer with her washboard, before
lifting her skirts and putting the rest
Bénézet received orders from God of the Turks to flight. The battle was
that a bridge should be built across eventually lost, but Cathérine has a
the Rhône. Avignon people were statue in Vieux Nice (see pp20–21).
The famous Pont d’Avignon

Provençal Legends ❮❮ 47
7 Les Pénitents des Mées

In AD 800 a group of monks TOP 10 TRADITIONS
ogled female Saracen prisoners 1 Les Tripettes, Barjols
being led to the Durance river and MAP E4 2nd weekend Jan
•
were turned to stone as punishment Celebrates St Marcel with a parade and

(see p122). There they remain – a dancing in traditional costumes.
2-km (1-mile) line of rocks, some 2 Corso Fleuri, Bormes-
100 m (300 ft) high, looking like les-Mimosas
repentant monks with their cowls up. MAP E5 Mid-Feb
•
Festivities amid the mimosas (see p88).

3 Fête de la Transhumance, Riez
MAP E3 Sun, mid-Jun
•
Sheep cross the village to an upland

pasture, giving rise to festivities.
4 Fête de la St-Jean
MAP B2 23 Jun
•
In Valréas, a medieval-style costumed

parade attends to the election of a boy
to “protect” the town.
5 Fête de la Tarasque, Tarascon
MAP B3 Last weekend Jun
•
The fearsome Tarasque “reappears”

each year to terrify revellers.
6 Fête de la Lavande, Sault
Les Pénitents des Mées MAP C2 15 Aug
•
The heartland of lavender (see p127)

8 Saintes-Maries-
de-la-Mer
celebrates the year’s harvest.
7 Fête du Millésime, Bandol
After being set adrift in a boat MAP D5 1st Sun, Dec
•
from Palestine, Mary Jacoby (sister This acclaimed wine district celebrates
of the Virgin Mary), Mary Magdalene, the completion of its latest vintage.
Mary Salome, Lazarus and a servant 8 Midnight Mass, Christmas Eve
girl, Sara, landed on the Provençal Pastoral memories mix with Christian
coast. They were the first Christians ritual, as live lambs join in the Mass.
in Gaul. The “relics” of Jacoby 9 Thirteen Christmas Desserts
and Salome are found in the Symbolizing Christ and the Apostles,
town’s church (see p84), as are the climax of the Christmas Eve meal
those of Sara, patron saint of the includes dried fruit and griddle cakes.
Romani people. 10 Nativity Scenes
Depictions of Christ’s birth mix biblical
Lost “City of God”
9 The Latin inscription on a characters with traditional terracotta
santon figures of Provençal villagers.
rock near St-Geniez indicates the
site of a 5th-century “Theopolis”,
or City of God. No other trace has
ever been found. However, pheno-
mena here, including strange lights
and odd weather, add to the mystery.
0 La Tarasque, Tarascon
The Tarasque, a dragon-like
beast, terrorized Tarascon (see p81)
in the 1st century AD, until St Martha
sprinkled it with holy water. The
Tarasque remains central to Provençal nativity scene
the town’s lively June festival.
Provence Villages
Nyons Seyne-les-Alpes
St Etienne
D90 0
Vaison-la- I TA LY
51
D9
Séguret Romaine Sisteron ALPES-DE- Colmars
HAUTE-PROVENCE St-Martin-
Orange Carpentras Sault-de- Vesubie
Digne-les-Bains ALPES-
Vaucluse MARITIMES
A7
VAU C LU S E Les Breil-sur-
N8
Roya
5
Mées
7
Puget-
D90
Avignon D6 20 2
Roussillon Moustiers- Théniers
A51
Fontaine-
de-Vaucluse Riez Ste-Marie Roquebrune-
Cap-Martin
Les-Baux- Pertuis St-Paul-
Comps-sur- Monaco
de-Vence
D13
Arles de-Provence Artuby Nice
D5
54
Salon de D7 Tourtour Grasse
A8
Provence D5 62 Antibes
BOUCHES- A8 Aix-en-Provence VA R Draguignan
DU-RHONE N7
Cannes
A7
Les Arcs
Martigues A8
Fréjus
A5 5 Brignoles St-Raphaël
Aubagne D25
La Couronne Bormes-les-
Marseille Mimosas St-Tropez
DN8
Cassis D98
Me dite r rane an
Toulon Sea
0 km 50 Le Lavandou
Hyères
0 miles 50 Port-Cros
1 Moustiers-Ste-Marie
At the entrance to the Verdon
and labyrinthine streets now throb
with summer tourists. But the site
gorges (see pp14–15), Moustiers remains majestic, the atmosphere
hangs like a pendant from the rock lively and the views over mountains
face soaring above (see p14). The and plains quite breathtaking.
glorious tangle of vaulted streets and
tiny squares are divided by rushing
streams. High above, tucked against
3 Sisteron
At the northern gateway to
the rocks, is the Notre-Dame-de- Provence, Sisteron’s minuscule
Beauvoir chapel (see p119). The village vaulted streets and unexpected stair-
is also celebrated for its pottery. cases climb the vast sentinel rock
overlooking the Durance river. It’s
2 Les-Baux-de-Provence
Emerging dramatically from
a harsh setting for a village with a
tumultuous past. Up top, the 14th-
its crag on the edge of the Alpilles century citadel (see p120) was all but
hills, Les-Baux (see p82) was home impregnable and now affords unbea-
to one of the finest courts in table views over the rugged landscape.
medieval Provence. Abandoned
for centuries, the ruined castle Sisteron, overlooking the Durance
Provence Villages ❮❮ 49
have sculpted the redandgold

earth into cliffs, canyons and weird
formations. Villagers have applied
the local red, yellow and brown ochre
to their houses, to enchanting effect.
8 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
A winning partnership of
the sort only found on the Côte
d’Azur. Beneath Roquebrune are
the grandiose belle époque villas
of the superrich on the CapMartin
peninsula. Up above are the winding
streets, vaulted passageways and
10thcentury château (see p104)
Cobbled street in Séguret of the original village.
4 Séguret
Encircling its hillside like a
9 Cassis
Cassis is overseen by France’s
belt, Séguret (see p129) stares out highest coastal cliffs, whose scale
from the edges of the Dentelles de reinforces the intimacy of the narrow
Montmirail mountains across the little harbour and old town centre
nearby wine plain. It’s an almost down below. Tourists crowd the
impossibly pretty spot of tiny, pedestri beaches – the best bathing is in
anized streets, medieval edifices and the creeks to the west – but Cassis
contemporary artists and artisans. remains a fishing port (see p82),
and retains its authenticity.
5 St-Paul-de-Vence
StPauldeVence (see pp32–3)
was a farming community living
quietly within its medieval environs
and 16thcentury walls until the 1920s.
Then it was discovered by the Côte
d’Azur artistic community (Picasso,
Matisse, Léger) and has been
fashionable ever since, with good
reason. Both artists and tourists
find the tiny streets, ramparts and
church remains utterly charming.
6 Bormes-les-Mimosas
This delightful village (see p88)
seems to tumble down the hillside,
with a jumble of steep alleyways, The fishing port at Cassis
hidden corners and stone houses
overcome with flowers – the village’s
name is very appropriate. Walk up
0 Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
The “fontaine” is actually
to the top of the hill and enjoy the Europe’s most powerful natural
splendid views of the Mediterranean spring – it pumps out 2.5 million
from the ruined medieval castle. cubic m (55 million gallons) of water
a day, and is the source of the River
7 Roussillon
Roussillon (see p129) is
Sorgue. It’s a spectacular setting for
a lovely village (see p126), made even
perched magnificently above an more romantic by its association with
extraordinary landscape. The mining the Italian poet, Petrarch, who lived
of ochre and subsequent erosion here in the 14th century.
Areas of Natural Beauty
Lac d’Allos, Parc National du Mercantour
1 Parc National
du Mercantour 4 Parc National
de Port-Cros
MAP G2 MAP F6
Mercantour National Park (see p114), Port-Cros is the smallest of the
sprawling over 700 sq km (270 sq Îles d’Hyères, and the national park
miles), is one of Europe’s largest, protects the delightful island and
and its rocky slopes are home to 18 sq km (7 sq miles) of sea around
rare species including chamois, it from the development that has
ibex, moufflon and marmot. Golden overtaken so much of the coast.
eagles and the rare lammergeier On land, it shelters beautiful butter-
vulture soar above the peaks. flies and rare sea birds, while the
clear waters offer excellent scuba
2 Gorges du Cians
and Gorges du Daluis
diving (see p91) and snorkelling.
High in the mountains of Haute-

Provence and the Alpes-Maritimes,
5 Mont Ventoux
The dramatic peak of Mont
the parallel canyons of the Gorges Ventoux (see p125), at 1,910 m (6,260
du Cians (see p113) and the Gorges du ft), seems to guard the gateway to
Daluis are awesome ravines, carved the region. Bare of trees, its higher
by icy, fast-flowing streams running slopes are known as the désert de
down from wine-red cliffs. The main pierre (stone desert) and are snow-
landmark is the Gardienne des covered from December to April.
Gorges, a huge boulder shaped like It has featured in the Tour de France,
a woman’s head, standing at the and even the strongest cyclists
north end of the Gorges du Daluis. dread the treacherous ascent.
3 Parc Naturel Régional

du Luberon
The Luberon region contains a wide
range of habitats (see p125). The
northern mountains are wild and
exposed, while the central massif
shelters the southern slopes,
creating a gentler environment.
Moorland, cedar forest, chalk hills
and deep river gorges shelter wild
boar, eagles, owls and beavers. The peak of Mont Ventoux
Areas of Natural Beauty ❮❮ 51
6 Les Alpilles
MAP B4
to France’s only surviving wild
tortoises, and makes a welcome
The chalky hills of the “Little Alps” change from crowded beaches.
rise no higher than 500 m (1,640 ft)
but display an arid beauty. This
miniature sierra stretches for 24 km
0 Gorges du Loup
The clifftop village of Gourdon,
(15 miles) between the rivers Rhône set in rugged limestone country,
and Durance, and the GR6 hiking stands above the dramatic Gorges
trail which crosses it is one of the du Loup (see p115), the most acces-
finest walks in Provence. sible of the gorges and canyons that
slash through this craggy landscape.
7 The Camargue
A landscape of lagoons,
The Loup stream plunges over
high cascades and has carved
marshes, wild bulls and France’s deep potholes such as the Saut
only cowboys (see pp26–7). du Loup (“Wolf’s Leap”).
8 Réserve Géologique
de Haute-Provence
MAP E2
If dinosaurs and fossils are your
thing, this park in the limestone
country around Digne is the place
to head for. It is the largest of its
kind in Europe, covering 1,900 sq km
(730 sq miles) of rock, rich in fossils
from ancient seas and tropical
forests dating back 300 million years.
9 Massif des Maures

Thickly wooded with forests
of cork and holm oak, pine, myrtle
and sweet chestnut, the dramatic
Massif des Maures (see p89) is wild,
hilly and sparsely inhabited, even
though it is only a stone’s throw from
the busy coastal hotspots. It is home Waterfall in the Gorges du Loup
N7
Nyons Seyne-les-Alpes I TA LY
D1
Bollène St Etienne D
D 90 0
07
Vaison-la- 2
5
D 99 4 51 20
Romaine D9 ALPES-DE- 5
Bagnols
Orange Sisteron HAUTE-PROVENCE Colmars
GARD A7 1 Digne-les-
Carpentras Sault-de- D95
Vaucluse Bains St-André-
N86
les-Alpes
N8
Avignon VAUCLUSE Lurs D6 20 2

5
2
07
Roussillon N20 Touet-

D9
A9 Castellane sur-Var
A51
0 Manosque
Tarascon D90 Riez
Lourmarin D 60 85
A54 D7
Comps-sur-
A7
D13
Arles Mons
Artuby
D55
Salon de
Tourtour Grasse
A8
Provence Meyrargues
4
D5 62
BOUCHES- VAR
DU-RHONE A8 Aix-en-Provence Draguignan
Cannes
Barjols
Les Arcs Fréjus
N5
A8
68
A55 St-Antoine Brignoles St-Raphaël

D25
D56 0
7
N97
A5
La Couronne Marseille St-Tropez

DN
A50 Collobrières
8
8
D9
La Ciotat Toulon
Le Lavandou
0 km 40 Hyères
0 miles 40 Medi terrane an S e a
Beaches in Provence
port to the loveliest beach in France
(see p91). Pine-fringed, it boasts
white sand, clear, calm waters, no
commerce and few people – your
private slice of paradise.
3 Plage de Pampelonne,
St-Tropez
MAP F5
Everyone has his or her “place”
on St-Trop’s largest beach (see p25).
Famous beach clubs cater to
everyone, from the super-rich
to nudists to families. The 5-km
(3-mile) sandy stretch across the
headland from the town also has
extensive public areas. There’s space
in which to escape the crowds and
appreciate natural beauty.
Dramatic Calanque d’En-Vau

4 Plage de la Garoupe,
Cap d’Antibes
1 Calanque
Cassis
d’En-Vau, Between them, Antibes and Juan-
les-Pins have 25 km (16 miles)
Calanques (see p76) are inlets formed of coast and 48 beaches, slotted
where the chalk cliffs plunge to the into rocky creeks or opening out into
sea; many are found between Cassis sandy expanses. The prettiest is
and Marseille. En-Vau is the prettiest La Garoupe (see p110), on an
and one of the more accessible – a inlet of the peninsula. It’s highly
90-minute walk from the nearest fashionable and very crowded in
Cassis car park. At the foot of the summer – but with very good reason.
white, pine-clad rocks, the setting of
sand and luminous sea is intimate,
wild and unforgettable.
5 Plage d’Agay, St-Raphaël
As the red rocks of the
Esterel hills tumble into the clear
2 Plage Notre Dame, Île
de Porquerolles
blue sea, they give the coastline
around St-Raphaël an untamed
MAP E6 allure. The small creeks are
No cars are allowed on the island, enticing; equally alluring, but bigger,
so it’s a walk or cycle-ride along the
rocky, 3-km (2-mile) track from the Esterel coastline around Plage d’Agay
Beaches in Provence ❮❮ 53
D7 Comps-sur- Mons
Arles
D 13
A7
A51 Nice
D55
Salon de Artuby
Meyrargues
4
BOUCHES- Provence D5 62 Cannes Antibes
DU-RHONE Aix-en-Provence Draguignan
A8 VA R
60 N7
D5 Les Arcs
N5
Fréjus St-Raphaël
68
A8
Martigues A 5 5 St-Antoine D56 0 Brignoles
7
N97
A5
La Couronne Signes
Marseille Cassis St-Tropez
La Ciotat Collobrières 8
DN8 D9
Le Lavandou Me dite r rane an

Toulon Hyères
0 km 25 Sea
Port-Cros
0 miles 25
25
sandier and more accessible, is

the Bay of Agay (see p106) – perfect
for families.
6 Plage de l’Eléphant,
Le Lavandou
MAP F5
Le Lavandou has 12 beaches
covering the full seaside spectrum,
from the great sandy stretch of the
Grande Plage to the nudist creek of
Rossignol. L’Eléphant is the most Calanque de Figuerolles
appealing. The approach is only by
sea or over rocks, a feature which
usually ensures relative tranquillity.
8 Calanque de
Figuerolles, La Ciotat
MAP D5
Steps on the eastern edge of town
lead to this extraordinary creek.
On either side are cliffs, while further
back are terraces of fig trees and
pines. Out front, the blue sea laps
around weird rock formations.
It is a world unto itself.
9 Plage
Fréjus
de St-Aygulf,
MAP F5
Long, wide, sandy and safe, the main
beach at St-Aygulf, near Fréjus (see
p87), has the additional advantage of
Sunbathers enjoy Plage de l’Eléphant being in a Nature Preservation Area.
This protects the Étangs de Villepey –
7 St-Honorat,
Lérins
Îles de great, wild, freshwater lagoons on
the other side of the road, where 217
A short ferry ride leads from the different bird species have been noted.
crowds of Cannes to this island
owned by Cistercian monks
(see p57). The presence of the
0 Piémanson Beach,
The Camargue
monastery seems to discourage MAP B5
the more brazen holiday-makers This is a beach beyond civilization.
so the pretty rock outcrops and You must thread your way between
tiny beaches here remain calm salt flats and lagoons before arriving
and, unusually for Provence, at the flat, exposed sands of France’s
positively underpopulated. last truly “wild beach”.
Gardens of Provence
Sérignan-du- ALPES -DE- Colmars
Comtat Sisteron HAUTE-PROVENCE Isola
St-Martin-
Orange Carpentras 1 A L P E S - Vesubie
D95 Digne-les-Bains
Puget- M A R I T I M E S
04
Les
D62
Avignon VAU C LU S E Lurs Théniers D6 20 2
Mées Breil-sur-
Roussillon Roya
7
A51
D90
Manosque Castellane
Cavaillon Riez Rougon Menton
D60 Monaco
Lourmarin 85
Nice
Salon de Pertuis Mons
Provence D13
D55
A8
Tourtour
A7
D5 62 Antibes
Aix-en-
BOUCHES- A8 Provence VA R Draguignan
DU-RHONE N7
Cannes
Les Arcs
Brignoles A8
Fréjus
A5
5 D56 0
St-Raphaël
D25
7
A5
La Couronne Aubagne Signes N97 St-Tropez

Marseille
Le
7
A5
Lavandou
La Ciotat
Mediterranean
Toulon Hyères Sea
0 km 50
Port-Cros
0 miles 50
1 Jardins d’Albertas,
Bouc-Bel-Air
themed areas (Spanish, Florentine,
Japanese and more) are rich with
MAP D4 • DN 8 • 04 42 22 94 71 plants, sculptures and fountains,
• Open May, Jun, Sep: 2–6pm and the views are exquisite.
weekends and public hols; Jul–Aug:
3–7pm daily • Adm • www.jardins
albertas.com 3 Domaine du Rayol,
Le Rayol-Canadel
Laid out in the 1750s, these terraced MAP F5 • Av Jacques Chirac • Open
gardens remain a majestic mix of 9:30am–6:30pm daily (Nov–Mar: to
French and Italian influences – 5:30pm; Jul–Aug: to 7:30pm); for
ordered in the geometrical style guided tours timings visit www.
of France, but with the fountains domainedurayol.org • Adm (includes
and statuary favoured by Italy. guided tour)
On one of the most magnificent sites
on the coast, Domaine du Rayol offers
an overview of Mediterranean-style
plant life. Gathered around a pergola,
a fine mosaic of eight gardens
recreates landscapes of areas of the
world with Mediterranean climates.
4 Jardin Botanique des

Cordeliers, Digne-les-
Bains
MAP E2 • Pl des Cordeliers • Open
mid-Mar–mid-Nov: 9am–noon &
2–6pm Mon–Fri (to 7pm Jul–Aug)
• Closed Wed pm • Guided tours in
Jardin de la Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
English by appt: 04 92 30 81 50
2 Jardin de la Villa
Ephrussi de Rothschild,
Named after a 13th-century convent
previously on the site, this garden
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat features more than 650 species of
Baroness Rothschild’s mansion is aromatic plants from the region and
legendary (see p103), and its gardens abroad. Beds are arranged in squares,
are of similar sumptuousness. Eight according to a classical design.
Gardens of Provence ❮❮ 55
8 Harmas Jean-Henri
Fabré, Sérignan-du-
Comtat
MAP B2 • Rte d’Orange • 04 90 30 57
62 • Opening times vary, check
website • Adm • www.harmasjean
henrifabre.fr
This fascinating walled garden was
planted by etymologist Jean-Henri
Fabre to observe the lives of insects,
which he recorded in exquisite
watercolours in his books.
9 Jardin de la Louve,
Bonnieux
Cacti in the Jardin Exotique MAP C3 • Chemin St Gervais
• Opening times vary, check website
5 Jardin
Monaco
Exotique, • Closed early Oct–mid-Apr • Adm
• www.lalouve.eu
Crisscrossed by winding paths, this It’s worth the special effort to visit
garden (see p107) features a large this private, ultra-contemporary
collection of cactuses, succulents topiary garden, created by Hermès
and other semi-desert plants – 6,000 stylist Nicole de Vésian to harmonize
varieties in all. A prehistoric cave with the surrounding landscape.
and anthropology museum are
also within the garden grounds.
0 Serre
Menton
de la Madone,
6 Château
Pertuis
Val Joanis, MAP H3 • 74 rte de Gorbio • 04 93 57
73 90 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
MAP D4 • D973 • 04 90 79 20 77 (Jan–Mar: to 5pm); guided tours 3pm
• Open 10am–1pm & 3–7pm Mon– daily • Closed Nov, Dec, 1 Jan • Adm
Sat • Adm • www.menton.fr/Jardin-Serre-de-
These award-winning gardens la-Madone

were planted in 1978 on three Anglo-American Lawrence Johnston
sheltered terraces, mimicking the was a leader among expats who left
17th-century French style. They their mark on Riviera gardens in the
include a classic potager (vegetable early 20th century. His hillside spread
garden) and an orchard amid roses is so well landscaped, it barely seems
and cypresses. structured. Terraces harbour enclosed
spaces dedicated to themes or exotic
7 Jardin Botanique Val
Rahmeh, Menton
plants, and there are fountains, water
gardens and a collection of statues.
MAP H3 • Av St Jacques
• Open 9:30am–12:30pm &
2–5pm Wed–Mon (Apr–Sep:
9:30am–12:30pm & 2–6pm)
• Closed 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm
More than 700 tropical

plants crowd these terraces,
established in 1905 by Lord
Radcliff, a former governor
of Malta. Val Rahmeh
specializes in spices, wild-
flowers, medicinal plants,
succulents and rare varieties
of tomato and potato. Water garden in Serre de la Madone
Sporting Activities
3 Sailing
Almost all the coastal resorts
have well-equipped pleasure ports and
cater for both the beginner and the
experienced. The island of Porquerolles
and Bandol village on the mainland
have renowned sailing schools.
4 Canoeing
The classic river trip is to
canoe down the Gorges du Verdon –
a two-day, turbulent, 24-km (15-mile)
trip from Carajuan Bridge to Lac de
Ste-Croix (see p15). Less adventurous
canoeists might prefer paddling the
Skier in the Alpes-Maritimes gentler Sorgue, from Fontaine-de-
Vaucluse (see p126).
1 Skiing
Skiing is concentrated where
Provence and the Alps meet (see
p114). In the Ubaye valley, Pra-Loup,
Le Sauze and Super-Sauze offer
international-standard facilities as,
in the Allos valley, do La Foux and
Seignus. Meanwhile, there’s family-
friendly skiing on Mont Ventoux –
notably at Mont Serein.
2 Climbing
For some of France’s finest,
toughest rock climbing, head for
the Buoux cliffs in the Luberon Canoeing on the Verdon river
(see p125), the Gorges du Verdon,
with their 933 routes (see pp14–15) or
the creeks and Calanques between
5 Mountain Biking
The marked trails, up and
Marseille and Cassis (see pp76–7). down mountains, through vineyards,
Easier conditions can be found in the forests, gorges and creeks, are
Dentelles de Montmirail (see p126). endlessly inviting. Figanières is
a key centre in the Upper Var,
while the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
region has some 1,500 km
(900 miles) of marked tracks.
6 Golf
The finest golfing can be found
at the Frégate golf course, St Cyr,
where the sea views are sensational
(see p91). Other courses offering
good golf in lovely surroundings
include Bluegreen Esterel at St-
Raphaël, the Ballesteros-designed
Pont Royal at Mallemort and Golf
Climbing in the Gorges du Verdon de Châteaublanc outside Avignon.
Sporting Activities ❮❮ 57
7 Scuba Diving
The richness of marine
TOP 10 WALKS
life, clear waters and a sprinkling
of wrecks all draw divers to the
Mediterannean coast. The Îles
d’Hyères are noted for their seascapes
and for the underwater “discovery
trail” on Port-Cros (see p70). Cavalaire
and Marseille remain, however, the
best-equipped centres.
8 Windsurfing
The breezy Var and Bouches-
du-Rhône coasts are ideal for water- Hiking in the Mercantour
sports fans. As the Mistral whistles 1 Vallée des Merveilles, Mercantour
across the Camargue, so windsurfers National Park
take advantage at Saintes-Maries-de- Only serious hikers should attempt this
la-Mer and Port-St-Louis (see p27). marvellous mountain trek. Allow 2–3
days, overnighting in refuges. Contact
9 Walking
From the coastal paths to
Park HQ before setting out (see p114).
2 Blanc-Martel Trail, Verdon Gorges
mountain tracks inland, Provence A breathtaking 15-km (9-mile) trail
could have been created for walkers. from La Palud to Point Sublime.
Strollers may amble around bays or Allow 7–8 hours (see p14).
along woodland paths, while serious 3 Calanques, Marseille
hikers can take to the National Hiking Spectacular walking along rugged
Trails (Grandes Randonnées or GR) headland trails (see p76).
which crisscross the region. 4 Massif des Maures
The forests, valleys and peaks are
0 Canyoning
The exhilarating sport of
covered with excellent trails (see p91).
5 Coastal Path, Six-Fours-les-Plages
descending torrents and canyons MAP D6
by abseiling, jumping and swimming The seaside walk to La Seyne starts off
has taken off big time. Try it in the flat, then climbs to the Cap Sicié for
Roya valley near Saorge or in any of fantastic views. Allow 7 hours.
70 sites in the Ubaye and Verdon 6 Baou de St-Jeannet, St-Jeannet
valleys. There are some easier MAP G4
descents for beginners in the This stiff but rewarding walk (3–4
Pennafort and Destel gorges. hours) ascends the “baou” – the rock
overlooking the village near Vence.
7 Port-Cros, Îles d’Hyères
Take in a paradise of forests, creeks
and headlands as you walk the coast
in 5 hours (see p50).
8 Dentelles de Montmirail
Trek from Sablet up to St Amand, the
highest point. Six hours (see p126).
9 Vieux Nice
From the Old Town up to Castle Hill
and down again: the best in-town
walking in the region (see pp20–21).
10 Massif de l’Esterel
The very best mountain path is from
Pont de l’Esterel to Mont Vinaigre.
Allow 4 hours (see p88).
Abseiling down a canyon
Children’s Activities
Paddling down river Sorgue
1 Kayaking, Fontaine-
de-Vaucluse 4 Azur Park, St-Tropez
MAP F5 Carrefour de la
•
MAP C3 • Fontaine-de-Vaucluse Foux, Gassin • Open Apr–Sep • Adm

• Kayak Vert: 04 82 29 42 42; open • azurpark.fr/en
mid-May–mid-Oct; no credit cards Located just outside St-Tropez, this

After gushing from its source at funfair is a local institution. There
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (see p126) are 35 attractions to choose from,
the river Sorgue becomes idyllic, including rides for toddlers. Children
perfect for a lazy two-hour paddle also adore the prehistoric mini-golf
downstream. Kayak Vert canoes hold course, featuring model dinosaurs
two adults and two children; life and woolly mammoths.
jackets and return shuttle included.
2 Snorkelling,
Canadel
Le Rayol-
The protected waters off the Var coast

offer some of the best snorkelling. In
summer, book a guided sentier sous-
marin (underwater trail) session at
the Domaine du Rayol (see p54) and
spot barracudas and even octopuses.
3 Ventoux Aventure,
Mormoiron Aerial view of Aqualand, Fréjus
MAP C2 • 920 chemin des Salettes
• Open Jul–Aug: daily; Sep–Jun: Wed,
Sat & Sun; hours vary, check website 5 Aqualand, Fréjus

MAP F5 Quartier Le Capou, RN
•
• Adm • ventouxaventure.fr 98 • Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 10am–

Complete with zip lines, suspension 6pm (mid Jul–Aug: to 7pm) • Adm
bridges, a lake and a small beach, One of the biggest water parks in
this forest adventure park has plenty Provence, this offers fun for all ages,
to offer tree climbers aged 3 and up. from daredevil slides and white water
Beyond the tree tops, the view of Mont thrills to calmer pools and toddler
Ventoux in the background is a bonus. activities in the Children’s Paradise.
Children’s Activities ❮❮ 59
Musée Oceanographique,
6 Monaco 8 Rocher
Barben
Mistral, La
As well as its superb aquariums, MAP C4 • Route du Château • Open

with over 6,000 species of marine Jun–Aug: daily; Sep–early Jan & Apr–
life, the Oceanographic Museum May: Fri, Sat, Sun, public & school
has a terrace overlooking the sea hols • Closed early Jan–Mar • Adm
• www.rochermistral.com
and an enclosure for African spurred
turtles. The museum holds inter High on a hill, the striking medieval
active exhibitions, exploring diverse Château de la Barben (the oldest
marine life through the year. The castle in Provence) and its vast
6m (20ft) deep aquarium gives grounds are the stage for immersive
visitors the chance to come face historical shows. Actors dressed
to face with sea turtles, sharks and as peasants, knights, monks and
giant rays (see p104). revolutionaries reenact events from
the 11th century to the present day.
9 Crossbows and
Catapults, Les-Baux-
de-Provence
Lifesized siege engines – a ballista,
catapults, trebuchets and a battering
ram – bring medieval warfare to life
at the dramatic fortified castle of
Les Baux (see p82). Special children’s
activities (including training in
shooting crossbows) take place
during medieval festivals during the
holidays and on summer weekends.
0 Les Marais du Vigueirat,

Camargue
Exhibits at Musée Oceanographique MAP B4 • Chemin de l’Etourneau
• Open 9:30am–5pm daily (to 5:30pm
7 Le Village
des Automates,
Apr–Sep) • Closed Dec–mid-Jan
• Adm
St-Cannat A great place for families to

MAP C4 • Chemin de la Dilligence explore the Camargue, Vigueirat
• Open Apr–Aug: 10am–7pm daily; has signposted paths and nature
Sep: 10am–7pm Wed, Sat, Sun; Oct– tours for ages six and up, with the
Mar: 10am–5:30pm Wed, Sat, Sun, chance to see herds of white horses,
public & school hols black bulls, pink flamingoes, wild
Animated automata bring storybooks boar and more.
to life in a series of
themed tableaux, Pierrelatte Barcelonnette
A51
set in a wooded park.

D1
Nyons St Etienne
075
Characters include Sisteron

A7
Carpentras
Scheherazade, Gulliver Avignon
Mormoiron
Les Mées
Digne-les-Bains
Touet-sur-Var
N8
in Lilliput and Pinocchio

5
A9
7
D90
Cavaillon Castellane
A51
Monaco
and the whale. There’s Pertuis
Riez D6
08
Arles
A7
also a petting zoo,

5
D5
Nice
54
adventure park with A8

Aix-en-Provence Cannes
Antibes
ziplines, an elevated La Couronne
A5 5 Brignoles
A8
Fréjus
D56 0
miniature railway, a Marseille A57 St-Tropez
tricycle race course 0 km 50
Cassis Le Rayol-Canadel
Toulon Hyères
as well as a massive Mediterranean
0 miles 50 Sea
indoor playpark.
Places to See and Be Seen

D60
85 A L P E S - M A R I T I M E S Vence
Beaulieu club (see p109) across
St-Paul-
Mons de-Vence the Croisette from the
Grasse
Villeneuve- Nice
Cap
Carlton InterContinental,
Fayence Loubet
Ferrat one of the most luxu-
Biot
D562 Mougins Antibes rious seafront hotels in
Lac de
St-Cassien
see
Cannes inset,
Cannes. Fancy cocktails
Juan-les-Pins
VA R
below and lobster rolls comple-
0 km 10
Iles de ment the views.
A8
Lérins 0 miles 10
N7
Fréjus
St-Raphaël
BD DE LA
1E
DIVI S I O N FR A N Ç A R
ISE LIB
RE
Cannes
R AV O
3 Le Petit
Majestic,
Cannes
D 55 9
RUE
D ’A
IE DE
PI
BO U NT
IBE
LE V
A RD
DE L
SMAP G4 • 6 rue Tony
Vieux
Por t plag
A CR
OIS
ET Allard • 04 93 39 94 92
e l a TE
St-Tropez 0 metres 500
Cro
is
This night hangout is
ett
Nikki Beach e popular with the late
0 yards 500
Ramatuelle
crowd, who party until
the early hours all sum-
1 La Palme d’Or, Cannes
MAP G4 73 bd de la Croisette •
mer long. During the film festival
(see p68) you’ll find all the cream
• 04 92 98 74 14 • €€€ of the world’s movie business here.
The restaurant at the Hôtel Martinez
is where stars dine, as the signed
photos in the foyer attest, and the
4 Les Caves du Roy,
St-Tropez
menu is suitably opulent. With two To mingle with the rich and famous,
Michelin stars, the restaurant offers book a room at St-Trop’s most stylish
a fine gastronomic experience. hotel and swan into Les Caves du Roy
(see p92), the hotel’s nightclub. In
2 Carlton Beach
Club, Cannes
season it’s the haunt of supermodels,
film stars and racing drivers. Wear
Dipping your toes in the sand, soak your most fabulous outfit.
in la dolce vita at this chic beach
5 Club 55, Ramatuelle,
St-Tropez
MAP F5 • Plage de Pampelonne, bd
Patch • 04 94 55 55 55 • €€€
Ever since Le Cinquante Cinq first
opened in 1955, its guest list has
read like an A to Z of the rich and
famous. Book ahead if you want
a table in the restaurant, dress to
impress and bring your platinum
credit card. Open summer only.
6 Nikki Beach,
Ramatuelle, St-Tropez
MAP F5 • 1093 chemin de l’Épi
• 04 94 79 82 04
Join A-listers from Hollywood and

Bollywood sipping on cocktails and
relaxing on sun loungers to the tunes
of top DJs at this glamorous beach
Carlton Beach Club, Cannes club. Open late spring to late summer.
Places to See and Be Seen ❮❮ 61
Sun and dining terrace of the Hôtel Le Majestic Barrière, Cannes
7 Hôtel Le Majestic
Barrière, Cannes
a 17th-century fountain. The
cuisine is creative Mediterranean
One of the flashiest café-terraces (try the slow-cooked sea bass).
(see p110) in town attracts a high- At night, the restaurant is pure
spending, fashionable clientele romance, illuminated by hundreds
year-round, and some of the world’s of flickering candles (see p117).
brightest stars during the film
festival – Robert De Niro, Matthew
McConaughey and Jake Gyllenhaal
0 Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc,
Cap d’Antibes
have been sighted. Anything stronger Book years ahead to mingle with
than coffee costs a fortune. the rich and famous at this luxurious
hotel (see p143). The model for the
8 Le Bistrot du Port,
Golfe Juan
hotel in F Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender
is the Night, it was the flagship
MAP G4 • 53 av des Frères Roustan of Riviera hedonism. The list of
• 04 93 63 70 64 • Open times vary,
celebrity guests stretches back
call to check • €€ decades and includes such stars
The menu at this notable seafood as Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth
restaurant, presided over by Mathieu Paltrow and Leonardo DiCaprio.
Allinei, includes a great bouillabaisse
and a variety of fish. The port itself
is favoured by Hollywood stars and
it is here that Napoleon I made his
big, but brief comeback in 1815.
9 Le St-Paul,
St-Paul-de-Vence
Nestled away in the heart of the
medieval village, Le St-Paul restau-
rant nurtures the kind of exclusive
atmosphere loved by celebrities.
Beyond the elegant dining room,
the walled garden terrace has tables
and comfy wicker chairs surrounding Suite at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc
For a key to restaurant price ranges see p79

Gourmet Restaurants
3 Le Chantecler, Nice
Within the palatial Le Negresco
hotel (see p143), Le Chantecler
boasts Regency decor and wood
panelling. The service is exquisite,
as is chef Virginie Basselot’s
imaginative food (see p99).
4 Greenstronome,
Arles
Jean-Luc Rabanel is the first
eco-chef to have received two
Michelin stars. His four-, six- and
The grand Louis XV restaurant eight-course menus (see p85) spotlight
the freshest vegetables, edible flowers
1 Le Louis XV, Monte Carlo
The world’s most glamorous
and wild herbs in season.
diners expect splendour, and will get

it here amid wood panelling, gilded
5 La Vague d’Or, St-Tropez
At the chic beachside Cheval
mirrors and chandeliers (see p111). A Blanc (see p142), chef Arnaud
team of top chefs takes centre stage Donckele prepares unforgettable
to cook Alain Ducasse’s exquisite dishes (see p93) in a dreamy setting.
interpretations of Provençal cuisine.
2 L’Oustau de 6 L’Oasis, La Napoule

In a charming Neo-Gothic
Baumanière, Les- villa overlooking La Napoule
Baux-de-Provence port, chef Nicolas Decherchi
This converted farmstead (see p85) performs culinary magic. The
dates from the 14th century; the rooftop bistro offers menus at
three-Michelin-starred food more affordable prices.
marries fresh, seasonal local
produce with top-class cuisine.
Outdoor seating at L’Oustau de Baumanière

Gourmet Restaurants ❮❮ 63
TOP 10 REGIONAL SPECIALITIES

1 Tapenade
Purée of olives, capers, garlic and
anchovies. Anchoïade is similar, but
without capers or olives.
2 Salade Niçoise
Purists use only raw vegetables, hard-
boiled eggs, anchovies, olives and olive
oil, but tuna is usually added, too.
3 Olives
A signature Provençal product,
olives were introduced by the Greeks
in the 4th century BC, and olive oil is
central to regional dishes.
4 Aïoli
Garlic mayonnaise made with olive
oil. Accompanies raw vegetables,
cold cod and hard-boiled eggs.
5 Pistou
Thick soup of haricot and kidney
La Bastide de Capelongue, Bonnieux beans, pasta and other vegetables,
with basil, garlic and olive oil.
7 La Bastide de
Capelongue, Bonnieux
6 Pieds et paquets
Lamb’s feet (pieds) and stuffed sheep’s
stomach (paquets) in white wine.
Young chef Noël Bérard has a
growing reputation for Provençal 7 Ratatouille
cooking of great finesse. The sur Stew of peppers, courgettes (zucchini),
roundings are equally fine (see p131). aubergines (eggplant), tomatoes and
onions, sautéed in olive oil.
8 La Chèvre d’Or, Èze

A Riviera legend, the
8 Truffles
The season for this highly flavoured,
rare underground fungus runs from
“Golden Goat” combines stupen
mid-November to mid-March.
dous views over the coast with Carpentras is the centre (see p127).
exquisite, beautifully presented
seasonal dishes. 9 Daube
Beef (or wild boar) is marinated
and slowly simmered in a sauce
9 Le Petit Nice
Passedat, Marseille of red wine with herbs and garlic.
Perched on a cliff overlooking 10 Bouillabaisse
Marseille fish dish of up to three
the sea, this luxury hotel houses
species. The spicy cooking juices
Marseille’s first threestar Michelin are served as a soup before the
restaurant (see p79). Try beignets fish itself.
of sea anemones or the line
caught sea bass, followed by
a delicious dark chocolate
and raspberry delight.
0 La Bastide St-Antoine,
Grasse
This restored 18thcentury country
house (see p117) is superbly set
amid lavender and olive trees
above Grasse. Equally splendid
is the cooking by renowned chef Provençal bouillabaisse
Jacques Chibois.
For a key to restaurant price ranges see p79
Vineyards and Distilleries

quality. The Cuvée Clos Dière is
among the most expressive of
Provençal wines. There is also a
chic hotel and a restaurant.
4 Distilleries &
Domaines de Provence
MAP D3 • 9 av St-Promasse,
Forcalquier • www.distilleries-
provence.com
Home of Henri Bardouin, the
connoisseur’s pastis. Like all pastis,
Bardouin is based on star anise, but
here they add 50 other herbs and
spices, many of them local. The
result is an apéritif more richly
flavoured than other brands.
5 Domaine de Beaurenard
MAP B3 10 av Pierre de
•
Château Romanin’s vaulted cellar Luxembourg, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

• 04 90 83 71 79
1 Château Romanin
MAP B3 Mas Romanin, St-
•
The Coulon family have been here in
Provence’s most famous wine village
Rémy-de-Provence • 04 90 92 69 57 since 1695 – time enough to really
This stunning underground winery perfect their skills. The Boisrenard
resembles a cathedral, and the red is the proof. They also run the
site has had spiritual associations region’s best wine museum.
since the Greeks worshipped
here in the 4th century BC. The
owners’ methods reflect this past,
6 Château de Berne
MAP F4 Chemin des Imberts,
•
including cultivation by the phases Lorgues • 04 94 60 43 53

of the moon. British-owned Berne is the region’s
best wine visitors’ centre. The site
2 Château Ste-Roseline
MAP F4 1854 route de Ste-
•
is picturesque, the welcome friendly,
and there’s a full calendar of
Roseline, Les-Arcs-sur-Argens • 04 94 cultural events. There are also
99 50 30 three restaurants and a hotel
This family-owned estate produces on site. The best wine is the
award-winning Côtes de Provence Cuvée Spéciale.
vintages. Contemporary art exhibi-
tions are held every summer in
the medieval abbey adjacent to the
château and the vast grounds are
lovely for walks.
3 Domaine Rabiega
MAP F4 Clos d’Ière, 516
•
chemin du Cros d’Aimar, Draguignan

• 04 94 68 44 22
Set within a wooded residential

suburb, this Swedish-run domain
has an innovative attitude to wine Pretty surrounds of Château de Berne
Vineyards and Distilleries ❮❮ 65
7 Château La Coste
MAP C4 Rte de la Cride, Le
• TOP 10 REGIONAL WINES
Puy-Ste-Réparade • 04 42 61 89 98
Irish businessman Patrick McKillen’s
biodynamic vineyard features a
contemporary art promenade with
works by Louise Bourgeois and
Tracey Emin, among others, and
striking buildings by Jean Nouvel,
Frank Gehry and Tadao Ando.
8 Domaine de la Citadelle
MAP C3 Route de Cavaillon,
•
Ménerbes • 04 90 72 41 58
Former film producer and politician
Yves Rousset-Rouard sunk a fortune Vineyards in Bandol
into this stylish set-up. The Côtes de
Luberon wines are treated with 1 Bandol
The home of the Mourvèdre grape
respect, and the on-site Corkscrew
produces fine and vigorous reds.
Museum is unique.
2 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
At their best, the reds are dark and
powerful, while the (rarer) whites
are intensely fruity.
3 Beaumes de Venise
France’s richest fortified dessert wine,
made from the Muscat grape.
4 Côtes-de-Provence
Famed for rosés, this region is
now also producing classy reds
and heady whites.
5 Gigondas
Domaine de la Citadelle Sometimes known as “son of
Châteauneuf-du-Pape” but the
full-bodied wines definitely stand
9 Domaine St André
de Figuière out on their own.
MAP E5 • BP47, Quartier St Honoré, 6 Côteaux d’Aix-en-Provence
La Londe-les-Maures • 04 94 00 44 70 Fast-improving red and rosé wines.
In a superb location, set back from 7 Cassis
the sea and next to a bird sanctuary, Fresh, dry whites – particularly good
Alain Combard and his family make served with Provençal fish dishes.
wines of great finesse. Note that the 8 Côtes du Ventoux
visitors’ entrance to the cellar is The reds, especially, can be very
round the back of a steel tank. rewarding – although rosés are
great for summer picnics.
0 Château de Pibarnon
MAP D5 410 chemin de la
•
9 Côtes du Luberon
Another hugely improved group of
Croix des Signaux, La Cadière-d’Azur wines, not least due to investment
• 04 94 90 12 73 from fashionable outsiders.
Perched directly above the sea, this 10 Côtes du Rhône Villages
may be the most attractively sited In theory, one step up from ordinary
wine château in Provence. Father and Côtes du Rhône, but they can be
several steps up in practice – especially
son Henri and Eric have wrestled the
if the name of the village (such as
unyielding land to produce delicious Cairanne) is mentioned on the label.
red wines now in the forefront of the
Bandol appellation.
Provence for Free

4 Food for Free
MAP B3 pl Pie, Avignon •
• 04 90 27 15 15 • www.avignon-
leshalles.com/la-petite-cuisine-des-
halles
Every Saturday morning at 11am,
one of Avignon’s leading chefs cooks
up a storm in the city’s Les Halles food
market. La Petite Cuisine des Halles’
programme promises complimentary
tastings, recipes and all sorts of
culinary tips and techniques.
5 Church Art
For centuries the Catholic
church was the most powerful
economic force in Provence, and it
shows in the masterpieces on its
walls: visit, for example, Grasse’s
NotreDameduPuy (see p40), where
Exhibition at Villa Arson, Nice a Fragonard and a trio of Rubens
canvases adorn the interior. But you
1 Contemporary Culture
MAP N1 20 av Stephen
•
can see works of interest by the Old
Masters for free in almost every
Liegeard, Nice • 04 92 07 73 73 church and cathedral in the region.
• Open 2–6pm (Jul & Aug: to 7pm)
Wed–Mon (during exhibitions only)

• www.villa-arson.org
6 Lavender Fields
Blooming lavender fields are
The Villa Arson is a fine art school best seen from June to early August.
and contemporary art gallery housed Some of the prettiest sights can be
in a bucolic villa in northern Nice. seen while driving through Castellet,
Visitors can enjoy a changing roster Gordes, Sault and Forcalquier. The
of exhibitions focusing on contem hillside town of Sault draws crowds
porary French sculpture, Parisian during its Fête de la Lavande, which
Pop Art and video montages. is held on 15 August.
2 Pedalling Provence
Many hotels offer free bike
loan for their guests (see p135). The
region’s larger cities, such as
Marseille, Aix and Avignon, also have
inexpensive bike share schemes.
3 Vineyard Tastings
Vines have carpeted Provence
and the Côte d’Azur since Roman
times. Almost every vineyard offers
free tastings to visitors amid bucolic
grounds – although buying at least
a bottle (at bargain château prices)
is considered polite. Even the
region’s finest vintners (see pp60–
61) welcome visitors. Lavender fields in bloom, Provence
Provence for Free ❮❮ 67
TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS
1 A hotel petit déjeuner (breakfast) can

cost you upwards of €10. Hit a café for
fresh croissants instead, but take note:
a café-crème or café au lait is coffee
for tourists. Locals sip un express
(espresso) instead.
2 Hitchhiking is permitted on all roads
except autoroutes (motorways).
3 Local wine by the pichet, or half-litre
carafe, will halve your drinks bill. It’s
also acceptable, when dining, to ask
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
for a carafe d’eau (jug of tap water)
rather than a bottle of mineral water.
7 Walk the World’s
Wealthiest Peninsula 4 Museum passes are a steal. The French
Riviera Pass grants free access and
MAP H4
discounts to several sites in Nice and
Cap-Ferrat is the world’s second- along the Côte d’Azur. Students and
priciest property spot (only Monaco over-60s often qualify for a discount,
is more expensive). A 6-km (4-mile) and state-owned museums are free to
public footpath makes its way EU students under 26 (ID is required).
round the cape, past billionaires’ 5 Book TGV tickets online at www.oui.
gardens from Plage de Passable sncf for discounts – such as Nice to
beach in Villefranche to David Niven’s Avignon from €20. Rail passes are
former home near St-Jean. great value too.
6 Hotel chains hotelF1 and B&B Hotels
8 St-Tropez on
a Shoestring
offer bargain, no-frills rooms.
7 City-centre self-catering apartments
Little comes cheap in Europe’s A-list work out far cheaper than hotels for
getaway. But while the celebs soak families staying a few days. The
up the sun at exclusive Plage de countryside alternatives are gîtes.
Pampelonne beach bars such as 8 Youth hostels (no age limit) may be
Club 55 (see p58), the rest of the shore found in most major cities and in many
is free to mere mortals. And Le Café national parks. Provençal campsites are
on place des Lices (see p25) offers not much cheaper than a budget
guests free use of pétanque balls. hotel. Wild camping is discouraged.
9 Provençal markets can supply all you
9 AofPrincely
Monaco
View need for the perfect seaside picnic at
less than the cost of a café terrace snack.
Peer out from the palatial mound 10 Sign up online for one of the
of Monte Carlo (see p103) on a sunny region’s many city bike share schemes.
day to glimpse Corsica twinkling in Nice’s VéloBleu and Marseille’s Le Vélo
the distance. Whatever the weather, offer bicycles from €1 per hour.
you can see the daily Changing of
the Palace Guard.
0 Inof the Footsteps

Cézanne
Aix-en-Provence’s most famous
inhabitant is cemented into history
with a walking trail (see p18). Follow
the brass floor plaques (with an
accompanying leaflet if you wish)
that lead you through Cézanne’s VéloBleu shared bikes in Nice
favourite haunts around town.
Festivals and Events

1 Festival
à Cordes
de Quatuors
MAP E5–F5 Feb•
Flower-bedecked floats, accompanied

by live music, are paraded through
villages throughout the Var. Among
the main corsos are those in
St-Raphaël and Ste-Maxime.
2 Nice Carnival
MAP H4 Feb •
Performer at the Avignon Festival
Over 16 days in February, Nice goes

wild as multicoloured floats, carnival
5 Avignon Festival
MAP B3 Jul •
figures and performing troupes take France’s greatest theatre event

to the streets. Europe’s liveliest event is really two festivals. The official
also features the Battle of the Flowers. one takes over the Papal Palace’s
Courtyard of Honour (see p12) and
other venues for both modern and
classical drama. However, it is the
unofficial “off” festival which enlivens
the town, with street performers
and up to 400 shows a day, from
dance to burlesque comedy.
6 Aix Festival
MAP C4 Jul •
Founded in 1948, this is a great lyrical

event. As well as classical opera in
the courtyard of the Archbishop’s
Palace and other venues, there are
Carnival figure in the parade at Nice more contemporary works, recitals
by musicians, music masterclasses
3 Cannes Film Festival
MAP G4 May •
at its Académie Européenne de
Musique and street theatre.
Some 30,000 film professionals attend
this world-famous gathering, to do
business and, incidentally, see a few
7 Nice Jazz Festival
MAP Q3 Jul •
films. The atmosphere is glamorously Founded in 1948, the best of the

electric. As a member of the public, region’s many jazz festivals draws
don’t expect to meet, or even see, the
stars, except as they mount the steps
of the Festival Palace for a screening.
4 Fête de la
Transhumance, St Rémy-
de-Provence
MAP B3 Whitsun weekend
•
Upwards of 3,000 sheep, as well

as goats and donkeys, accompanied
by shepherds in traditional costume
with sheep dogs, cram into the old
village, for a sheep drive (transhu-
mance) to upland pastures. Musician at the Nice Jazz Festival
Festivals and Events ❮❮ 69
some of the biggest names in the

music business. The festival sees 32 TOP 10 SPORTING EVENTS
concerts over 6 nights on two stages
in Place Masséna, one concentrating
on jazz and the other mixing world
music, pop and other genres.
8 Chorégies
MAP B2 Jul
d’Orange
•
France’s oldest music festival, dating

from 1869, has the town’s Roman
theatre as its main venue (see p125).
The original stage wall ensures
perfect acoustics for the classical Monaco Grand Prix
operas that have earned the event
an international reputation. 1 Paris to Nice “Race to the Sun”
MAP H4 Mar
•
Watch the final leg of the international

cycling year’s first major race.
2 Monte Carlo Tennis Masters
MAP H3 Apr
•
One of the tennis circuit’s more

prestigious events.
3 Olympic Sailing Week, Hyères
MAP E6 Apr
•
Some 1,000 boats from 50 nations

compete in this sailing event.
4 Monaco Grand Prix
MAP H3 May
•
The one and only street race on the

Formula One calendar.
5 Joûtes Provençales,
St Mandrier-sur-Mer
MAP G4 Jun
•
An unusual sporting event centred

Chorégies d’Orange show on waterborne jousting.
6 Verdon Canyon Challenge
9 International Piano
Festival, La Roque
MAP E3 Jun
•
Tough races of 8–100 km (5–62 miles)

d’Anthéron through this dramatic scenery.
MAP C4 Mid-Jul–mid-Aug
•
7 Pétanque World
Since 1980, the festival has drawn the Championships, Marseille
cream of the world’s classical and MAP K4 Jul
•
jazz pianists to play beneath the plane Four days of boules, culminating
trees and the night sky at Château in a final on the Vieux Port.
de Florans, located in the charming 8 Feria du Riz, Arles
village of La Roque d’Anthéron. MAP B4 Sep
•
Bullfighting and other festivities

0 Fête de la Véraison,
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
welcome the Camargue rice harvest.
9 Les Voiles de St-Tropez
MAP B3 • 1st weekend Aug MAP F5 Sep–Oct
•
Take a step back in time to celebrate Six-day regatta for both traditional
the ripening of grapes with villagers and modern sailing boats.
dressed in historic costume. Parades, 10 Olympique de Marseille
performances and demonstrations The favourite French football team
of medieval crafts take place over (see p76) plays home games July to May.
three days of festivities.
Offshore Islands
View from Port-Cros, one of the Îles d’Hyères
1 Port-Cros, Îles d’Hyères

A national park (see p50), the
5 Ste-Marguerite,
Îles de Lérins
smallest and most mountainous of MAP G4 Ferry from Cannes harbour
•
the Hyères isles is dense with pine Ste-Marguerite offers woods of pine
woods and oaks. Paths lead up to and eucalyptus and stony coves.
clifftops offering dramatic views. In 1687, the Man in the Iron Mask was
For relaxation, La Palud is by far imprisoned in the fort (see p46) here.
the best beach.
Porquerolles,
Levant, Îles d’Hyères 6 Îles d’Hyères
2 Le
MAP F6 Ferry from Hyères
• MAP E6 Ferry from La Tour-Fondue,
•
Although 90 per cent of this island near Giens

is a French Navy missile base, The largest of the French Riviera
the other 10 per cent is a naturist islands is the car-free hideaway of
colony. Clothes must be worn at the Porquerolles. Hire a bike or explore
port and in administrative buildings. on foot to appreciate this paradise of
vineyards, olive groves, scented
3 Îles du Frioul
MAP C5 Ferry from Vieux
•
forests and glorious beaches.
Port, Marseille Tranquil beach in Porquerolles

The linked islands of Ratonneau and
Pomègues guard Marseille harbour
(see p75). Beyond Port Frioul, white
rocks ruggedly conceal unspoiled
little beaches. The diving and
snorkelling here is renowned.
4 Île d’If
MAP C5 • Ferry from Vieux
Port, Marseille
This prison island is most famous
as the place from which Dumas’
fictional Count of Monte Cristo
escaped (see p41). You may even
visit the “Count’s dungeon”.
Offshore Islands ❮❮ 71
7 Îles des Embiez

MAP D6 Ferry from Le Brusc,
• TOP 10 ISLAND ACTIVITIES
near Six-Fours-les-Plages • www.
lesilespaulricard.com
The larger of two islands developed
for tourism by drinks magnate
Paul Ricard, Les Embiez is a delight.
Development has been sensitively
merged into the landscape, leaving
most of the island’s creeks, woods
and salt marshes untouched.
8 St-Honorat, Îles de Lérins

MAP G4 04 92 99 54 00 Ferry
• • Cycling on Porquerolles
from Cannes • Fortified monastery: 1 Cycling
Closed for renovation until further On Porquerolles and Les Embiez, cycle
notice • www.abbayedelerins.com the forest paths to creeks and beaches.
St-Honorat has been run by monks 2 Snorkelling, Port-Cros
almost continually since the National Park Office 04 94 12 82 30
•
5th century. It has several 10th- •

www.portcrosparcnational.fr
century chapels and an impressive Follow a signposted underwater
11th-century monastery. You “nature trail” from La Palud.
can stroll through the vineyards, 3 Fort Ste-Agathe, Porquerolles
cultivated by the monks, and buy 04 94 58 07 24 Open mid-May–
•
the wine from the shop. mid-Oct; check website for times
of guided tours Adm www.
• •
porquerolles.com
Exhibitions on the region’s nature.
4 Diving, Île des Embiez
Centre de Plongée 06 87 61 03 20
•
Courses in water rich with marine life.

5 Lighthouse Walk, Porquerolles
A 90-minute round trip to one of the
finest lighthouses.
6 Fort de l’Estissac, Port-Cros
Open Jun–Sep: 11am–1pm & 3–5pm
St-Honorat’s fortified monastery Exhibits on local history.
7 Aquascope, Île des Embiez
9 Île de Bendor
MAP D5 Ferry from Bandol
•
Open Apr–Oct 06 23 36 39 55 Adm
•
A glass “bubble” over water allows

•
With a tiny harbour and beaches, this close encounters of a marine kind.
island too has been developed by Paul 8 Sailing and Sea Kayaking, Bandol
Ricard and is smaller than Îles des Société Nautique de Bandol
Embiez. But the tourist development •
www.sn-bandol.com
is as sensitive as on Les Embiez, and Hire and classes in summer.
complements the natural landscape. 9 Vallon de la Solitude Walk,
Port-Cros
0 Île Verte
MAP D5 Ferry from Vieux
•
A two-hour walk through shady forest
to the Fort de la Vigie.
Port, La Ciotat 10 Museum of Wine and Spirits,
The “Verte” of its name refers to the Île de Bendor
island’s greenery, notably the trees Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 1–6pm Thu–
Tue www.lesilespaulricard.com
topping the steep cliffs. Billed as
•
A display of 8,000 bottles from over

“one of the last virgin islands of the 50 countries.
Mediterranean coast”, the islet has
tiny creeks and beaches.
Provence and the
Côte d’Azur
Area by Area
The perched village of Les-Baux-de-Provence, Bouches-du-Rhône

Marseille 74
Bouches-du-Rhône 80
The Var and Provençal Coast 86
Nice 94
Monaco and the Riviera 102
Alpes-Maritimes 112
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence 118
Vaucluse 124
74 ❯❯ Provence and the Côte d’Azur Area by Area
Marseille
The oldest city in France was founded 2,600 years ago by Greek
settlers from Asia Minor, and it has barely seen a quiet moment
since. Open-hearted and tumultuous, it is backed by chalk hills and
flanked by white cliffs, with its face to the sea. The sea is Marseille’s
raison d’être, making it a trading hub
and entry point for immigrants. As a
result, Marseille is a collection of urban
villages, from the souk-like market
areas to tiny fishing ports. But all its
citizens are Marseillais: loud, rebellious
and volatile. This is the home of French
music, football and bouillabaisse.
Ceiling of Notre-Dame Picaresque and picturesque, it’s a
de la Garde place in which to feel alive.
MARSEILLE
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Marseille ❮❮ 75
Marseille’s charming Vieux Port
1 Vieux
MAP K4
Port to buy fish. The occupying Nazis
tried to subdue the city by blowing
Commercial sea traffic might have up the north side of the port in 1943,
moved round the corner to newer but Marseille’s indomitable nature
docks in the 19th century, but the won the day.
old port remains the heart of city
life. Bobbing with boats and fringed
with restaurants, it’s where the
2 Notre-Dame
de la Garde
Marseillais gather for festivities and MAP K6 • Rue Fort du Sanctuaire
• Open 7am–6pm daily
This Romanesque-Byzantine church
is the symbol of Marseille. Perched
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C O LO U I S
CO LO U ISST-
Cours Julien
Cours Julien
Contemporary interior of MuCEM
URS
URS
S T-
see see
mainmain
mapmap
Around
Around
Marseille
Marseille 3 Museum of Civilizations
of Europe and the
St-Barnabe
St-Barnabe Mediterranean (MuCEM)
La Valentine
La Valentine
A50 A50 MAP J4 • 7 prom Robert Laffont
Château
Château St-Giniez
St-Giniez
• Open Nov–Apr: 10am–6pm Wed–
d’Ifd’If Musée
Musée
desdes
ArtsArts Mon (May–Jun & Sep–Oct: to 7pm;
Décoratifs,
Décoratifs,
de de
la la
Prado
Prado
Beaches
Beaches Faïence
Faïence
et de
et de
la Mode
la Mode Jul–Aug: to 8pm) • Adm
N
D559D559
This museum is split between a
striking postmodernist building on
LesLes Mt Puget
Mt Puget the seafront and the adjacent Fort
565m
565m
0 km
0 km 4 4
Goudes
Goudes LesLes St-Jean. It features art from around
Calanques
Calanques the Mediterranean, from Neolithic
0 miles
0 miles 4 4
times to the present day.
Archaeology and of contemporary

art. The domed central chapel is
Italian Baroque at its purest.
6 Musée Grobet-Labadié
MAP M3 140 bd Longchamp
•
• Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun • Closed

1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec
• Adm
Opposite the Palais Longchamp, this

Palais Longchamp fountains museum is set in the former private
mansion of a rich 19th-century art-
4 Palais Longchamp
MAP M2 Bd Jardin Zoo-
•
loving Marseille family. Its original
decor has been retained, recreating
logique • Museums: open 9am–6pm bourgeois life at the peak of the city’s
Tue–Sun; closed public hols; adm for prosperity. Walls are hung with a
temporary exhibitions (free first Sun unique collection of Gobelin and
of the month) Aubusson tapestries, while the
Longchamp is the greatest expression salons boast sculpture, paintings,
of Marseille’s 19th-century “golden drawings and furniture from the
age”. What is essentially a water 13th to the 19th centuries.
tower is embellished in palatial
Second Empire style with fountains,
columns and animal sculptures.
The central gallery is flanked by
two ornate wings, home to the Fine
Arts and Natural History museums.
5 Le Panier and
Vieille Charité
MAP J3 • La Vieille Charité: 2 rue de
la Charité • Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun
• Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,1 Nov, 25 Dec;
• Adm
Wriggling up the hill north of the

Vieux Port, Le Panier is Marseille’s Painting at Musée Grobet-Labadié
oldest sector. This is where the
Greeks settled and, later, where the
city’s immigrants began their new
7 Prado
MAP C5
Beaches
lives. The streets are alive with Around the corniche from the Vieux
different cultures. La Vieille Charité, Port, past the picturesque fishing
the 17th-century workhouse and port of Vallon des Auffes to the start
now a cultural centre, houses the of the calanques, stretch Marseille’s
museums of Mediterranean boldly modern beaches. They were
reclaimed from the sea with earth
excavated during the building of the
THE FOOTBALL CAPITAL city’s metro system. On summer days,
Champions of Europe, then enmeshed they feature every conceivable beach
in match-fixing scandals: the recent sporting activity; at night, the Escale
history of the Olympique de Marseille Borély beach area offers some of
football team has matched the turbu- the town’s trendiest nightspots.
lence of its home town. But this has
done nothing to dissuade the fans of
the most popular French team – foot-
ball is the lifeblood of Marseille, the
8 Les Calanques
MAP C5
Stade Vélodrome its place of worship. Within 15 minutes’ drive of the city
centre you are out of town and into
Marseille ❮❮ 77
a different world. White rocks plunge A MORNING

into the blue sea and the road winds EXPLORING MARSEILLE
into inlets (calanques) of great beauty Metro Cinq Avenues-Longchamp
(see p52). This is where the Marseillais
Boulevard
spend their weekends, eating, drinking Longchamp Palais
and keeping rich developers out. Longchamp
Musée Grobet-
After Les Goudes, access to even March des Labadié
Capucins
more picturesque creeks (towards Boulevard
Cassis) is by foot or boat only. Vieux Place Garibaldi
Port Thiars
Cours
Julien
Rue
Les Trois Fort St-Ferréol
1 km (0.6 miles) Musee
Cantini
Start your day off at the lush Parc

Longchamp (metro Cinq Avenues-
Longchamp) for a stroll through
the gardens, zoo or the museums
of the Palais Longchamp, and
perhaps also the Musée Grobet-
Labadié, just across from the
park entrance.
Imposing walls of the Château d’If
From here you can walk towards
Château d’If the centre on the leafy boulevard
9 MAP C5 • Open Apr–Sep:
Longchamp (or better yet take
the very stylish and popular T2
10:30am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar: tram) to boulevard Garibaldi; walk
10:30am–5:15pm Tue–Sun • Ferry one block south to rue du Marché
from Vieux Port • Adm des Capucins, colourful heart of
This offshore island fortress was the city’s souk market area (also
built in the 16th century to protect known as the Marché de Noailles;
the city’s port and was turned into closed Sun).
a prison in 1634. Among its inmates When you’re done with browsing,
were the real Comte de Mirabeau, follow this street eastwards and
and Alexandre Dumas’ (see p45) turn right into cours Julien, a
fictional Count of Monte Cristo. lively centre for musicians and
artists, full of alternative bars
and street art. From the end
0 Musée des Arts
Décoratifs, de la of the street, take rue d’Aubagne
north and then left into rue
Faïence et de la Mode Estelle. Here the style heats up
MAP C5 • 134 av Clot Bey • Open quickly, with the designer shops
9am–6pm Tue–Sun • Closed 1 Jan, in and around rue St-Ferréol.
1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec • Adm Soon after rue Estelle becomes
Château Borély, a masterpiece rue Grignan, visit the Musée
of 18th-century architecture, Cantini (open 10am–6pm Tue–
houses exhibition space devoted Sun; closed public hols; adm),
to decorative arts and furniture; which houses a magnificent
earthenware, ceramics and glass; modernist collection of Fauvist,
Cubist and Surrealist paintings.
and fashion from the 17th century
to the present day. It brings together Rue Paradis brings you to the
collections formerly scattered Vieux Port (see p75). End your
between the Musée de la Faïence, morning stroll along place Thiars,
a hive of galleries, restaurants
the Musée Cantini and the Musée
and bars. Enjoy a sumptuous
du Vieux Marseille, along with the meal at Les Trois Forts at
furniture collection of the Château boulevard Charles Livon (see p79).
itself. The gardens host outdoor
exhibitions and concerts.
See map on pp74–5
Specialist Shops
1 L’Épicerie Idéal
MAP L4 11 rue d’Aubagne
•
6 Galeries
MAP K4
Lafayette
Located in the neighbourhood of • Centre Commercial Bourse

Noailles, famous as “the belly of The largest store in town is a one-
Marseille”, this deli-restaurant has stop shop (clothes, gifts, wines,
irresistible selections of cheeses, groceries and more) for those with
cold meats, wines and much more. less time to spare.
2 Maison Empereur
MAP L4 4 rue des Récolettes
•
7 L’Herboristerie
Père Blaize
du
• Closed Sun • www.empereur.fr MAP L4 • 4 et 6 rue Méolan et
France’s oldest hardware shop, du Père Blaize
founded in 1827, is a quirky insti- This traditional herbalist shop, with
tution. It sells kitchen and household wooden cabinets full of dried plants
goods, leather, toys and much more. and flowers, has been run by the
same family for six generations.
8 Le Four des Navettes

MAP J5 136 rue Sainte
•
The oldest bakery in town and,

since 1781, home of the traditional
Marseillais navette, a small biscuit
(cookie) flavoured with orange
blossom and shaped like a boat.
9 Dromel Ainé
MAP L6 19 av Prado
•
The quirky Maison Empereur Even older than the above, Dromel
Ainé has been in the business of
3 Casablanca
MAP L4 63 cours Julien
•
selling fantastic chocolates, sweets,
and a range of unusual teas and
• www.boutiquecasablanca.com coffees since 1760.
One of the arbiters of trendy
Marseille style, featuring colourful,
comfortable women’s clothing.
0 La Compagnie
de Provence
MAP J4 1 rue Caisserie
•
La Maison de
4 la Boule
Not far from the Vieux Port, this
shop sells authentic olive oil savon
MAP J3 • 4 pl des 13 Cantons de Marseille in all its forms, plus
As well as showcasing the history scented candles and diffusers.
of pétanque, this delightful shop
sells everything you need to enjoy
this Provençal sport.
5 La Chocolatière
de Marseille
MAP K4 35 rue Vacon
•
This tiny establishment makes

the best chocolate in the city.
Specialities include the mouth-
watering Barre Marseillaise, made
in a wide range of flavours, such
as orange and praline. La Compagnie de Provence
Marseille ❮❮ 79
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes and extra charges.
€ under €40 €€ €40–€60 €€€ over €60
1 Restaurant Chez Michel

MAP J5 6 rue des Catalans
•
• 04 91 52 30 63 • €€€
Chez Michel is known for serving
the finest bouillabaisse in town, as
well as several other traditional
Marseillaise seafood specialities.
It overlooks Catalan beach. Plateau de fruits de mer at Chez Toinou
2 Dayo
MAP J4 40 rue Caisserie
•
6 Chez Toinou
MAP L4 3 cours St Louis
• • 04
• 04 91 93 13 37 • Closed Sun, 91 33 14 94 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€

Mon • € One of the best – and cheapest –
This a favourite with locals places for seafood in Marseille.
and visitors alike for its delicious Those willing to share can savour
seafood and steaks grilled on a plateau de fruits de mer for about
the plancha. €21 per person; for a simpler option,
try the mussels and chips.
3 Les Arcenaulx
MAP K5 25 cours Honoré
•
7 Le Souk
d’Estienne d’Orves • 04 91 59 80 30 MAP J4 98 quai du Port
• • 04
• Closed Sun • €€€ 91 91 29 29 • Closed Mon • €

Dine in the extraordinary setting Great Moroccan food in a lovely
of a former 17th-century arsenal, setting with a view of the cathedral.
complete with atmospheric vaults.
Besides the regional restaurant,
there is a bookshop and a boutique.
8 La Mercerie
MAP L4 9 cours St-Louis
•
• 04 91 06 18 44 • Closed Mon L,
4 La Table du Fort
MAP K5 8 rue Fort Notre
•
Tue, Wed, Thu L • €€
This restaurant with a buzzy vibe is
Dame • 04 91 33 97 65 • Closed run by a young trio serving creative
Sat L, Mon L, Tue L • €€ neo-bistro dishes and natural wines.
A welcoming husband-and-wife
team consistently serve inventive
contemporary cuisine made using
9 Les Trois Forts
MAP J5 Hôtel Sofitel du
•
local produce. The restaurant is just Vieux-Port, 36 bd Charles-Livon

• 04 91 15 59 56 • €€€
a few steps from the Vieux Port.
Great views over the port accompany
5 Le Petit Nice Passedat
Anse de Maldormé, Corniche
sumptuous seafood dishes.
J F Kennedy • 04 91 59 25 92
• Closed Sun & Mon • €€€ 0 Sépia
MAP K5 • 2 rue Vauvenargues
Highly awarded, elegant fish and • 09 83 82 67 27 • Closed Sun,

seafood restaurant in a luxury Mon • €€
hotel (run by French chef Gerald Sépia serves delicious meals made
Passedat) with glorious sea views. from the freshest market produce.
See map on pp74–5
Bouches-du-Rhône
The Bouches-du-Rhône region is aptly named (bouches means
mouths), for here the river splits into several separate streams,
flowing into the Mediterranean via the lagoons and grassy plains
of the Camargue. The Rhône marks Provence’s western boundary
and for centuries it was the region’s highway. Many important towns
grew up along its banks, while villages and medieval abbeys nestle
in the hills. Windswept beaches fringe the Camargue, but east of
the delta the coast becomes rocky, with small inlets (calanques).
Flamingoes in the Camargue
BOUCHES-DU-RHÔNE
La La
Calmette
Calmette d ard
G a rG L'Isle-sur-
L'Isle-sur-
Avignon
Avignon
D611 0
D611 0
Remoulins
Remoulins la-Sorgue
la-Sorgue
N1 N1
06 06
Cabrières
Cabrières A9 A9
Barbentane
Barbentane
Combas
Combas Nîmes
Nîmes
D7
D7
Cavaillon
Cavaillon
Château du du
Château
G AGRADR D Tarascon
Tarascon
D61 D61 St-Rémy-de-Provence
St-Rémy-de-Provence
13 13 Beaucaire
Beaucaire andand
Glanum
Glanum Du Du
Sommières
Sommières Nîmes
Nîmes ra ra nc nc
Abbaye
Abbaye
de de e e
A9 A9
13 13
N1 N1
A54 A54
Montmajour
Montmajour LesLes
Baux-
Baux-
de-Provence
de-Provence
Vauvert
Vauvert Fontvieille
Fontvieille
A7
A7
Lunel
Lunel Arles
Arles Eyguières
Eyguières
St-Gilles-
St-Gilles- D 57 2D 57 2
du-Gard
du-Gard D113D113
D97 9
D97 9
D61
D61
A54 A54 Salon de de

Salon
Réserve
Réserve
Aigues-
Aigues- Naturelle
Naturelle
des des D 1 Provence
D 1 Provence
Gr
Gr nd
ParcParc Naturel
Naturel
Miramas 0 0
CoussoulsMiramas
Coussouls
a
an Rh
Mortes
Mortes Régional
Régional
D1
D1
d
de Camargue
de Camargue de Crau
de Crau
13
13
Pe tit
Pe tit
DR3h5
D35
ône
ône
Le Le
Grau-
Grau- Étang
Étang
de Vaccarès
de Vaccarès Istres
Istres
D5
D5
du-Roi
du-Roi
Rhô
Rhô
N5
N5
68
68
TheThe
Camargue
Camargue
ne
ne
Étang
Étang
de B
deerre
B erre
Saintes-Maries-
Saintes-Maries-
D3
D3
FosFos
de-la-Mer
de-la-Mer
6
6
Marignane
Marignane
Port
Port
St-Louis
St-Louis A5 A5
5 5
Martigues
Martigues
D9 D9
La La
Couronne
Couronne
Top 10 Sights
see pp81–3
Places to Eat M eMdei dt ei tr er ar rnaenaena nS eSae a
see p85
The Best of the Rest 0 km
0 km 10 10
see p84
0 miles
0 miles 10 10
Algiers
Algiers Tunis
Tunis S
Bouches-du-Rhône ❮❮ 81
and animal species, is protected

within the Parc Naturel Régional
de Camargue (see pp26–7) and
other conservation areas.
3 Salon
MAP C4
de Provence
Salon, one of the oldest villages in

Provence, is today a busy modern
town, host to the French Air Force
Fountain in Aix-en-Provence training school. The old town, sitting
on a hill, has an attractive historic
1 Aix-en-Provence
Aix (see pp18–19) is a stone’s
centre, with medieval buildings, quiet
streets and leafy, cafélined squares.
throw from the sprawl of Marseille, The main attraction is the Château
but keeps its own identity, with cos de l’Empéri (see p84) dating from the
mopolitan cafés, a grand cathedral 10th century. Other places to visit
and beautiful 18thcentury fountains. include the small museum dedicated
to Nostradamus, who lived here in the
2 The Camargue
This vast expanse of wetlands,
16th century, and the Musée de Savon
at Savonnerie Fabre, which bears
salt marshes, lagoons and grazing witness to the olive oil industry which
land, home to a range of rare bird has existed here for over 600 years.
Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt
Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt
VAVA
R R
Gordes
Gordes
AptApt D4100
D4100
D900D900
P aPr ac r c N aNt ai ot inoanl a l
R éRgéi go inoanl a l d ud u L uLbuebr eo rno n
D9 73D9 73
Cadenet
Cadenet La La
Tour
Tour
96
96
D40
D40
d'Aigues
d'Aigues
Pertuis
Pertuis
Château de Tarascon
D7 D7
Abbaye
Abbaye de de
4 Château de Tarascon
A5 1 A5 1
6
6
Silvacane
Silvacane
D95
D95
B OBUOCUHCEHSE-S - MAP B3 Bd du Roi René,

•
D UD-UR-HRÔ
HNÔEN E Rians
Rians Tarascon • Open Jan–Mar & Oct–
A8 A8
Dec: 9:30am–12:30pm & 2–5pm
Tue–Sun; Apr: 9:30am–12:30pm &
Aix-en-Provence
Aix-en-Provence
2–5pm daily; May–Sep: 9:30am–
A7
A7
Gardanne
Gardanne 12:30pm & 1:45–6:30pm daily
D9 D9 • Closed public hols • Adm
Marseille
Marseille A8 A8
Provence
Provence
The pale battlements of the Château
A5 1
A5 1
A529 6
A52
D9
D
de Tarascon were built to guard a

6
Roquevaire
Roquevaire
D56 0D56 0 vital Rhône crossing on Provence’s
borders; the castle has steep, crenel
Marseille
Marseille lated curtain walls between massive
Aubagne
Aubagne
round towers. It was begun by King
Louis of Anjou, ruler of Provence in
the 15th century, and was completed
L e s LCe s C Cassis
alanaq
Cassis
l auneqsu e s
A50 A50 by his successor, King René. On his
La La
Ciotat
Ciotat death, Provence became part of
RiouRiou
Bandol
Bandol France (see p37) and the castle
Sardinia
Sardinia Corsica
Corsica
served as a prison until 1926.
5 Abbaye de Montmajour
MAP B4 Rte de Fontvieille,
•
Arles • Open May: 10am–5pm daily;

Jun–Sep: 10am–6:30pm daily; Oct–
Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • Closed
1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec • Adm
This massive, fortress-like abbey
was built by Benedictine monks in
the 10th century (see p47). Then,
the low hill on which it stands was
an island surrounded by marshes
and is still known as Mount Ararat.
Damaged by fire in 1726, it was
restored in the 19th century, and
its Église Notre-Dame is one of
the largest Romanesque buildings
in Provence. Below the church, Château and harbour of Cassis
a 12th-century crypt and chapel
have been carved into the hillside.
7 Cassis
MAP D5
This pretty fishing port (see p49) with
its brightly coloured boats anchored
in a harbour on a rugged, rocky
coastline, was a favourite with
painters such as Dufy, Derain and
Matisse (see pp44–5). All of them
were inspired by its clear light and
Mediterranean hues. Amazingly, it
has escaped being spoiled by tourism.
Cassis is also noted for its excellent
seafood (fresh sea urchins are
Abbaye de Montmajour considered a local delicacy).
6 Les-Baux-de-Provence
MAP B4 Château des
•
8 Abbaye de Silvacane
MAP C4 La Roque d’Anthéron •
Baux: open daily; Mar, Oct: 9:30am– • Open Apr–May: 10am–12:30pm

6pm; Apr–Jun, Sep: 9am–7pm; & 2–5pm Tue–Sun; Jun–Sep: 10am–
Jul, Aug: 9am–7:30pm; Nov–Feb: 12:30pm & 2–5:45pm daily; Oct–Mar:
10am–5pm; adm 10am–12:30pm & 2–4:45pm Tue–Sun
• Adm
Perched on a limestone crag, Les
Baux is one of the most dramatic Along with Sénanque (see pp30–31)
fortified villages in Provence (see p48). and Thoronet, Silvacane is one of the
It is crowned by a ruined château with three great sister-abbeys built in the
walls that date from the 10th century. 12th century by the Cistercian order
Église St-Vincent has 20th-century as it rose to prominence in Provence.
stained glass by Max Ingrand. Its plain, austere architecture reflects
the rule of the order, which was
founded by St Bernard in protest
BLACK BULLS AND WHITE HORSES of the luxury and corruption of other
The wild black bulls of the Camargue monasteries. The church has a high,
are one of the symbols of Bouches-du- vaulted transept and the cloister
Rhône, along with white horses – arcades and refectory were added
direct descendants of the prehistoric in the 13th and 14th centuries.
wild horse of Europe. These are still
Abandoned by its monks in the late
ridden by gardians, the sombrero-
wearing cowboys of the Camargue. 14th century, it became a living
abbey once again in the 20th century.
LITTLE ROME: A MORNING

IN ARLES
ne
Rhô
Musée Réattu
Les Thermes
de Constantin
Rue de Les
l'Hôtel de Ville Arènes
Fondation
Vincent van
Gogh Arles Église St-
Terrasse du Trophime
Café le Soir
Théâtre
Place de la Antique
République
Start the day with a visit to the

largest and most striking Roman
monument in Provence, Les
9 StandRémy-de-Provence
Glanum
Arènes (see p16). From the
highest tier of seats you have a
MAP B3 • Musée des Alpilles: pl fine view of the historic centre
Favier, St-Rémy; open May–Oct: and the Rhône. From here, walk
across to the Théâtre Antique
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: 1–
(see p16), for another glimpse of
5:30pm Tue–Sat; closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Roman Arles, then walk down the
24–26 Dec; adm rue du Cloître to the place de la
Overlooked by the wooded, limestone République, where water gushes
hills of Les Alpilles, St-Rémy is a from bronze masks at the foot of
perfect exploring base. Mansions an obelisk, brought here from
built in the 15th and 16th centuries Egypt by the Romans.
grace its historic centre. One of them On the east side of the square,
was the original home of the de Sade visit the fine Romanesque Église
family, ancestors of the notorious St-Trophime (see p16), with its
Marquis. It houses the small Musée sculpted pillars crowned by little
figures of saints and martyrs.
des Alpilles, displaying artifacts Follow the rue de l’Hôtel de Ville
found at Glanum, about 30 minutes’ to Les Thermes de Constantin
walk from the town centre. Here, the (see p16), the remains of a palace
site of one of the most ancient Greek- built for a 4th-century AD Roman
Roman settlements in Provence (see emperor. Then spend up to an
p39) is marked by a magnificent hour in the Musée Réattu (rue du
triumphal arch and mausoleum. Grand-Prieuré; open Tue–Sun;
adm), with its fine collection of art
from the 18th to 20th centuries,
0 Roman Arles
The delightful town of
including works by Picasso.
Arles (see pp16–17), founded by Another great painter, Van Gogh,

the Romans, stands on the east is associated with Place du Forum,
which is cluttered with cafés –
bank of the Rhône and is the one has been painted to look just
gateway to Provence from the west. as it was in his work Terrasse du
Café le Soir. Stop in for coffee. End
Les Arènes, the morning at the Fondation
Arles Vincent van Gogh Arles (35 rue du
Dr Fanton; open Apr–Oct: 10am–
6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–6pm
Tue–Sun; adm), with works by
contemporaries highlighting Van
Gogh’s influence on 20th- and
21st-century artists.
See map on pp80–81

The Best of the Rest

1 Parc Ornithologique du
Pont-de-Gau, the 6 Eyguières
MAP C4
Camargue This village was the source of
MAP A4 • Open 9am–6pm daily; park Arles’ water supply in Roman
entrance: open sunrise–sunset • Adm times. A 12th-century chapel, a
For a superb view of the Camargue, 17th-century church and a ruined
visit the park (see p27), where enclo- castle stand here.
sures display the lagoons’ bird life.
Musée de la Camargue
2 MAP B4 7 Château de l’Empéri,
Salon-de-Provence
• Mas du Pont de MAP C4 • Montée du Puech • Open
Rousty, Arles • Open Apr–Sep: 9am– 10am–12:30pm & 2–6pm Tue–Sun
5:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm • Closed public hols • Adm
daily • Closed weekends in Nov–Jan, This imposing 9th-century château

1 Jan, 25 Dec • Adm was once the seat of the archbishops
The Camargue comes to life in this of Arles. It now houses a fascinating
fascinating museum (see p26). museum of military history.
3 Maison du Riz, Albaron

MAP A4 Mas de la Vigne
•
8 Abbaye St-Michel
de Frigolet
• 06 31 03 40 11 • Open by appt MAP B3 • Open 8am–6pm daily
Apr–Nov: 9:30am–12:30pm & 2–6pm • Adm for tours on Sun
Sun–Fri • Adm The most attractive aspect of this
Set amid Camargue paddy fields close 19th-century abbey is its painted
to the Petit Rhône, this rice museum depictions of saints.
is run by the third and fourth gene-
rations of a family of rice farmers.
9 Abbaye de St-Roman
MAP B3 Opening times vary
•
Pont Flavien
4 MAP B4 (check www.abbaye-saint-roman.
com for details) • Closed Mon,
A Roman bridge from Augustus’ reign 25 Dec • Adm
in the 1st century AD, Pont Flavien This remarkable 5th-century abbey,
(see p39) has beautifully preserved carved into a rock face, is the only
triumphal arches at both ends. troglodyte monastery in Europe.
5 Château de Beaucaire
MAP B3 Pl Raimond VII
•
0 Église des Saintes-
Maries-de-la-Mer
• 04 66 59 26 57 • Open mid-Oct– MAP A4 • Pl de l’Église • 04 90 97
Mar: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun; Apr–Jun & 80 25 • Open daily (call for times)
Sep–mid-Oct: 9:30am–6pm Wed–Sun; • Adm
Jul–Aug: 9:30am–6pm daily A 12th-century church (see p41)

This ruined 11th-century castle faces that has a taurobolium altar from
the Château de Tarascon (see p81). the 4th-century BC.
Château de Beaucaire
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
5 Le Mazet du Vaccarès,
Arles
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), MAP B4 • D37, rte Albaron Villeneuve
taxes and extra charges. • 04 90 97 10 79 • Closed Mon–Thu,
Sun D • No credit cards • €€
€ under €40 €€ €40–€60 €€€ over €60
Located on the edge of the Étang de
Vaccarès, this is the place to sample
1 Une Table au Sud,
Marseille
Camargue clams in lemon cream.
No vegetarian options.
MAP C4 • 2 Quai du Port • 04 91 90
63 53 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€€
Run by a husband and wife team,
6 Drum Café, Arles
MAP B4 Luma Arles, Parc des
•
this esteemed restaurant is known Ateliers, 33 av Victor Hugo • 04 65 88

for its refined and creative cuisine. 10 00 • Closed Mon & Tue • €€
The restaurant offers an impressive Set in the Luma cultural centre,
view over Marseille’s Vieux Port and this restaurant caters to an artistic
the 19th-century basilica. crowd. Open for lunch only.
7 L’Oustau de Baumanière,
Les-Baux-de-Provence
MAP B4 • CD 27 • 04 90 54 33 07
• Closed early Mar–mid-May & early
Oct–mid-Dec: Wed & Thu • €€€
Superb French cuisine made with local
produce sourced from Baumanière’s
organic vegetable garden.
Interior of Une Table au Sud

8 Les Vieilles Canailles,
Aix-en-Provence
MAP C4 • 7 rue Isolette • 04 42 91
2 Sauvage,
Provence
Aix-en- 41 75 • Closed Mon & Sun • €€
Locals praise the unpretentious
MAP C4 • 24 rue de l’Aumône Vieille dishes at this laid-back bistro and
• 04 42 91 37 56 • Closed Sat & Sun wine bar.
• €€€
Chef Loïc Pétri offers modern menus

inspired by the daily market produce.
9 ElMaries-de-la-Mer
Campo, Saintes-
MAP A4 • 13 rue Victor Hugo • 04 90
3 La Cuisine des Anges,
St-Rémy-de-Provence
97 84 11 • Closed Sun D, Mon, Feb–
early Mar • €€
MAP B3 • 4 rue 8 mai 1945 • 04 90 92 Wash down a bull-meat casserole
17 66 • Closed Sun; Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri with a glass of Costières de Nîmes,
& Sat L; Feb & Mar: Mon–Thu; Jan • €€ listening to live gypsy flamenco.
The restaurant at this B&B, Le
Sommeil des Fées, is a local favourite
for lamb tagine and Provençal classics.
0 Greenstronome, Arles
MAP B4 7 rue des Carmes
•
• 04 90 91 07 69 • Closed Mon & Tue

4 Le Garage, Martigues
MAP C5 20 av Frédéric
•
• €€€
Greenstronome’s chef Jean-Luc

Mistral • 04 42 44 09 51 • Closed Sun, Rabanel is famous for his accom-
Mon, Aug, 2 wks Jan • € plished plant-based menus. His
Chef Fabien Morreale cooks refined more casual Greeniotage bistro is
fusion dishes in an Art Deco garage. at the same address.
The Var and

Provençal Coast
Within just a 30-minute drive of the glamour of
St-Tropez, you can be on a rugged mountainside
so remote that you may dread nightfall. That’s
the charm of the Var – an intoxicating mix of
the good life and an untamed landscape. In the
Gorges du Verdon and Upper Var, nature is both
Carvings, Basilica wild and imposing; down below, on the coast,
St-Maximin beauty assumes more rounded forms in beach
resorts and casinos. Yet the Provençal tendency
to “let time take its time” unites the region. Little wonder that
this is the most popular of French holiday regions.
THE VAR AND PROVENÇAL COAST

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(0.6 miles) 55 55
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60 60 D5 D
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60 60 A8 A8
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0 0
D56 D56 Le Luc
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La Garde-
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D 96
D 96
Mazaugues
Mazaugues DN7 DN7
Auriol
Auriol La Celle
La Celle Freinet
Freinet
VA
VAR R
Aubagne
Aubagne Riboux
Riboux Garéoult
Garéoult N97 N97
Méounes-
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lès-Montrieux
lès-Montrieux Grimaud
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ROUCHES
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8
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7
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d’Azur Solliès-Ville
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La Ciotat
La Ciotat Crau
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Cavalaire-sur-Mer
Sanary-
Sanary-
C C Bandol
Bandol sur-Mer
sur-Mer
C a Cô at e ô t e Bormes-les-
Bormes-les- Le Lavandou
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l a l ad d Mimosas
Mimosas
n q neqs e s Hyères
Hyères
ue ue La-Seyne- Toulon
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Six-Fours-
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les-Plages Port-
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0 km
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Porquerolles
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0 miles
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Corsica
The Var and Provençal Coast ❮❮ 87
relaxed to intense, notably during the

morning market which enlivens
the Allées d’Estienne-d’Orves. Look
for plaques commemorating Thomas
Mann, Bertolt Brecht and other
German writers who took refuge
from the Nazis here in the 1930s.
2 Fréjus Old Town

MAP F5 Cathédrale St-Léonce:
•
Sanary-sur-Mer harbour open 7am–7pm daily; Cloisters: Jan–

Apr & Sep–Dec: 10am–1pm & 2–5pm
1 Sanary-sur-Mer
MAP D5
Tue–Sun; May–Aug: 10am–6pm daily;
closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov,
The prettiest harbour in the Var 25 Dec; adm (cloisters only)
remains a proper fishing port, Despite its relaxed image, Fréjus
bobbing with boats. Beyond, palm has an exceptional double heritage.
trees fringe a frontage of pastel As Forum Julii, it was the second
façades. Activities range from port of the Roman Empire in the
region and retains some of the oldest
remains in Provence. Particularly
notable are the elliptical arena and
E D2 D2
theatre (see p42). Meanwhile, the
Gréolières
Gréolières Var
Var
D6 D6 A LAPLEPSE-S - town’s medieval bishopric status has
085 085
MM
A RAIRT II TMI M
E SE SGourdon
Gourdon left it with an extraordinary group of
Mons
Mons Saint-Vallier-
Saint-Vallier- episcopal buildings. The 13th-century
de-Thiey
de-Thiey Cathédrale St-Léonce (see p47)
Grasse
Grasse
incorporates a wonderful octagonal
Seillans
Seillans
baptistry from an earlier, 5th-century
n Fayence
Fayence Mougins
Mougins church, and the 14th-century cloisters
have ceilings painted with bracingly
D5 62D5 62 LacLac
de de
St-Cassien
St-Cassien
Mandelieu-la-
Mandelieu-la- lurid events from the Apocalypse.
Napoule
Napoule
Cannes
Cannes
Bagnols-
Bagnols-
en-Forêt
en-Forêt A8 A8 N7 N7
Massif
Massif
de de ÎlesÎles
de de
Le Muy
Le Muy Lérins
Lérins
l'Esterel
l'Esterel
Fréjus
Fréjus
St-Raphaël
St-Raphaël r e l r e l
s t es t e
I’E I’E
D559
D559
e dee d e
t t
Cô Cô
D25
D25
seesee
St-Tropez
St-Tropez M eMd ei tdeirtrear nr ae na ena n
map,
map,
leftleft S e Sa e a
Top 10 Sights Baptistry at Cathédrale St-Léonce

see pp87–9
Ramatuelle
Ramatuelle Places to Eat
see p93 3 Villa Noailles, Hyères
MAP E6 Montée Noailles
•
Sporting and •04 98 08 01 98 • Open Jan–Jun &

Outdoor Activities Sep–Dec: 1–6pm Wed–Sun; Jul & Aug:
see p91 2–7pm Tue–Wed & Fri–Sun, 3–9pm
Var Villages Thu • Closed public hols
see p90 Built for art patrons Charles and
Var Nightlife Marie-Laure de Noailles, this villa
see p92 hosts changing exhibits on design,
photography, fashion, and architecture.
6 Basilica St-Maximin,
St-Maximin-la-
Ste-Baume
MAP D4 • Open 7:30am–7:30pm
daily (except during Mass)
Provence’s finest example of Gothic
architecture was erected to house
the relics of Mary Magdalene,
“discovered” on the site in 1280.
The basilica appears unfinished
from the outside (there is no belfry)
but within, the sense of balance is
stunning. So too are the treasures,
notably a 16th-century altarpiece
Hilltop village of Bormes-les-Mimosas depicting the Passion of Christ, and
a renowned 17th-century organ.
4 Bormes-les-Mimosas
MAP E5
Mary Magdalene’s remains are
in a reliquary and a marble
This is a glorious village (see p49), sarcophagus in the crypt.
unravelling down the hillside in a
cascade of little streets, stairways,
terracotta-tiled rooftops and flowers.
7 Massif
MAP G4
de l’Esterel
As the rugged red rocks of the

5 Abbaye du Thoronet,
Le Thoronet
Esterel range plunge into the blue
of the Mediterranean, they create
MAP E4 • Quai Abbaye • Open creeks and contrasts of stirring
10am–1pm & 2–5pm daily (Apr– beauty. Inland, the tough, volcanic
Sep: to 6:30pm) • Closed 1 Jan, mountains may rise no higher than
1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec • Adm 600 m (2,000 ft) but the landscape
This majestic 12th-century is of breathtaking gorges, passes
Cistercian abbey was built in a and peaks. Many paths and tracks
wooded dip near Lorgues. Probably (see p57) provide access to the
the finest example of Romanesque mountainscape and its rich tree
architecture in the region, along life. Take the Perthus or tougher
with its sister houses, Silvacane Mal Infernet valleys – in the foot-
and Sénanque (see pp30–31), it steps of brigands who hid out here.
rises with sober magnificence.
The un-mortared stones of the
church, the monks’ buildings
and the cloisters are decorated
only by changing sunlight, their
interior volumes inspiring awe
and serenity. The harmony of
structure and setting make
contemplation unavoidable.
PERCHED VILLAGES
The Var’s villages perchés were built as a
defence against Saracen invaders who,
in the 9th century, occupied parts of
the Var, notably around La Garde-
Freinet. Expelled in 973, they returned
to wreak havoc at frequent intervals up
until the 18th century. The locals there-
fore took to the hills for protection.
Massif de l’Esterel
8 Caves, Villecroze
MAP E4 Open times
•
A DAY’S DRIVE IN THE
MASSIF DES MAURES
vary, visit www.villecroze-tourisme.
La Garde-
com for details (check for guided Gonfaron
Freinet
Village des D 75
tours) • Adm Tortues Grimaud,
Le Fleur
D97 Notre-Dame
Riddling the wall of rock that des Anges de Sel
D5
dominates the medieval village,
58
Collobrières,
D39
these caves were first home to pre- La Petite Fontaine D 14
historic people and, later, provided Chartreuse

de la Verne
La Mole
refuge against Saracen invaders. Pierrefeu N9 8
Most startling, however, is a cave on
D4
D2 7
1
Arboretum
the north side of the village, trans- de Gratteloup
Domaine
formed by a 16th-century nobleman Bormes-les-
Mimosas du Rayol
into a four-storey, fortified house,
with Renaissance frontage and carved MORNING
stone windows. A spring creates a
cascade which waters gardens below. Start in the village of Grimaud
and take the D558 up to La Garde-
Freinet (see p90). Continue 7 km
(4 miles) before turning left (D75)
through Gonfaron on the D97 to
reach the Village des Tortues,
where you can see the rare native
Hermann tortoise (Carnoules: open
10am–6pm Wed, Sat & Sun; Nov–
mid-Mar: to 5pm; adm). Head back
and take the D39 to Collobrières
(see p90). At Col des Fourches
head up to Notre-Dame des Anges;
there’s a chapel and fine views.
Troglodyte caves at Villecroze About 3 km (2 miles) before

Collobrières, turn left (D14) to the
Chartreuse de la Verne, a 12th-
9 Toulon
MAP E5 Musée de la
•
century Carthusian monastery
(Quartier Verne: open Apr–May &
Marine: pl Monsenergue; open Oct–Nov: 11am–5pm daily; Feb–
Sep–Jun: 10am–6pm Wed–Mon, Mar & Dec: 11am–5pm Wed–Mon;
Jul–Aug: 10am–6pm daily; adm Jun–Sep: 11am–6pm daily; adm).
France’s biggest, and once gritty, Then double back to Collobrières.
naval port has made a remarkable Stop for a drink or lunch at La
comeback. Explore the spruced-up Petite Fontaine (see p93).
old port, take the cable car up
AFTERNOON
Mont Faron for spectacular views
and visit the outstanding Musée Leave towards Pierrefeu, but
de la Marine. 2 km (1 mile) later turn left (D41)
towards Bormes-les-Mimosas.
0 Musée des Arts et

Traditions Populaires,
The drive takes you over the Col
de Babaou to the N98. Turn left
towards La Mole, but stop off at
Draguignan the Arboretum de Gratteloup
MAP F4 • 75 pl Georges Brassens (N98), a forest garden.
• Open 9am–noon & 2–6pm Tue–Sat
• Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm Continue to La Mole, then turn
right (D27) to the Col du Canadel
Housed in 18th-century buildings in and stop at the Domaine du Rayol
the old town, this is one of the best (see p54) gardens. Returning to
ethnographic museums in France. Grimaud, enjoy dinner at Le Fleur
Its displays illustrate the story of de Sel (4 pl du Cros; 04 94 43 21
Provençal life from its earliest days 54; closed Wed & Thu; €€).
to the beginning of the 20th century.
See map on pp86–7
Var Villages
1 Mons
MAP F4 6 La Cadière-d’Azur
MAP D5
Almost 820 m (2,700 ft) up, Mons has The medieval St-Jean gate is a great
the heritage to match its grandiose introduction to this ravishing maze
position: remains of the great Roche of streets set above the terraced
Taillée Roman aqueduct run nearby. hillsides and vineyards of Bandol.
In the village itself, narrow alleys The panorama is breathtaking.
wind around ancient porches,
pretty arcades and the wonderful
12th-century church.
7 Tourtour
MAP F4
Remote, perched at 600 m (2,000 ft)
2 Collobrières
MAP E5
up and surrounded by pine forest,
Tourtour is a picturesque tangle
It’s difficult to resist a village of streams, medieval buildings
claiming to be “world capital of and old stone streets leading to a
candied chestnuts”. In the heart of main square lined with restaurants.
the Massif des Maures (see p89),
Collobrières is surrounded by
forested slopes.
8 Comps-sur-Artuby
MAP F4
This is high, wild country, where
3 Ramatuelle
MAP F5
the Knights Templar made a base.
The 12th-century St-André chapel
Although swamped by the overspill testifies to their presence, and
from St-Tropez in summer, affords unbeatable views over
Ramatuelle remains a lovely hilltop the nearby Artuby Gorges.
village. Its tiny streets and vaulted
passages are heavy with flowers.
9 La Garde-Freinet
MAP F5
4 Les Arcs-sur-Argens
MAP F4
Nestling amid forests of cork-oak
and chestnut, La Garde-Freinet stands
With the medieval castle up top, the sentry to the wild Maures Mountains.
rest of the old village hugs the rocky Higher still are the ruins of the
promontory. Its labyrinth of streets medieval village fortified by Saracens.
and vaulted stairways unfold to the
modern village below.
0 Callas
MAP F4
5 Le Castellet
MAP D5
Fortified on the side of a green hill,
Callas has a winding, self-contained
The only access to this glorious charm imposed by its isolation near
village is via two gates in its the edge of the Canjuers Plateau.
13th-century walls. Within, steep It’s also a fine base for walking
paved streets climb tortuously to the the nearby Pennafort Gorges.
feudal castle. Views over olive groves
to the sea are outstanding.
The village of Le Castellet

Sporting and Outdoor Activities

1 Watersports
The Var coast offers everything,
6 Snorkelling, Port-Cros
MAP F6 Port-Cros National
•
from sailing and tuna-fishing to Park: 04 94 12 82 30

windsurfing and parascending. Head to La Palud beach and explore
Resorts awarded the “Station Voile” the underwater guided path to
symbol for excellent watersports discover posidonia, coral, mother-
facilities include Hyères and Bandol. of-pearl and brightly coloured fish.
Meanwhile, Brutal Beach at Six-Fours It is vital that you call the national
draws international windsurfers park harbourmaster’s office before
(see p65) and Cavalaire claims to be setting out.
the French capital of jet-skiing.
7 Coastal
MAP F5
Walk, St-Tropez
Far from the crowds, the path winds

around creeks and beaches, offering
lovely views. From Graniers beach to
Cap Camarat takes 6 hours.
8 Formula One Driving

MAP E5 AGS Formule 1, ZA
•
Circuit du Var, Gonfaron • 04 94

60 97 00
Windsurfing at Cavalaire Try the one-day course, open
to all drivers at the Le Luc circuit.
2 Hill Walks in the
Maures Mountains
Expensive but undeniably thrilling.
The walking possibilities amid these

forests, valleys and peaks (see p89)
9 Sailing,
MAP E3
Lac de Ste-Croix
are magnificent. The two-hour This vast artificial lake (see p15)
Collobrières to Chartreuse de la Verne offers all sorts of boating, from
monastery trek is one of the best. pedalo to dinghy. It’s also an access
point for canoe trips up the gorges.
3 Cycling on Porquerolles
Cars are banned on the island
of Porquerolles (see p52), so cycling
is the most rewarding way to explore
it. Hire bikes from the village.
4 Mont Faron
MAP E5
Rising up 540 m (2,000 ft) behind the
city of Toulon, Mont Faron is most
dramatically reached by cable car
from boulevard Admiral Vence.
The views and walks are terrific. Mountain biking, Gorges du Verdon
5 Golf
MAP D5 • Golf de Frégate, 0 Mountain Biking
Tough trail cyclists are spoiled
Route de Bandol, St Cyr-sur-Mer for choice in the Var. The most
The Var has a dozen golf courses, dramatic trips are around the
of which the best-known is the Golf Gorges du Verdon (see pp14–15) but
de Frégate, set among vineyards and Draguignan, Figanières and Fréjus
olive groves and overlooking the sea. also provide challenging routes.
See map on pp86–7
Var Nightlife
1 Les Caves du Roy,
St-Tropez 7 VIP Room, St-Tropez
MAP F5 Résidence du
•
MAP F5 • Av du Marechal Foch Nouveau Port

• www.lescavesduroy.com
A Studio 54like vibe prevails at
The Byblos Hotel’s legendary club this exclusive supper/dance club.
(see p60) has a suitably strict door If you’re not eating, don’t bother
policy: the unfashionable are gener turning up before midnight, which
ally unfortunate. If selected, you will is when the trendy set arrives.
be at the heart of Tropezien nightlife.
Coquetèle, Toulon
2 MAP E5 8 L’Opéra, St-Tropez
MAP F5 Residence du Port
•
• 397 littoral This pillar of the resort’s jetset

Frédéric Mistral nightlife since 1962 serves global
Enjoy creative cocktails on the cuisine amid quirky artworks. It has
covered terrace of this bar in the a waterfront cabaretrestaurant with
lively Mourillon quarter. The drinks allwhite decor. In the evening, enjoy
come with wonderful sea views. performances on the central stage
by flamethrowers, exotic dancers
3 Casino
Hyères
des Palmiers, and violin players.
MAP E6 • Av Ambroise
Thomas
Renovated in the 1990s, the
casino has retained its belle
époque style and added on a
glass dome. Alongside the
gaming rooms are a hotel,
restaurant and nightclub.
4 La Rhumerie,
Cavalaire-Sur-Mer
MAP F5 Rue du Port
•
This lively cocktail bar, with

frequent live bands and theme
nights, rocks the seaside The sophisticated setting at L’Opéra
until late.
5 ElMAPCamino, St-Raphaël 9 Les Moulins de

Ramatuelle, Ramatuelle
F5 Port Santa-Lucia
• MAP F5 34 chemin des Moulins
•
Sip a rum cocktail while you salsa, Start the evening with an apéritif and
mambo and merengue the night a round of pétanque amid pine and
away. There are musical dinners from olive trees at this barrestaurant.
Thursday to Saturday, plus Sunday Follow up with a delicious Provençal
brunch and afternoon garden parties. dinner. Latenight DJ sets at week
ends keep the party going.
6 Casino
Bandol
de Bandol,
0 Bar du Port, St-Tropez
MAP D5 • Pl Lucien Artaud MAP F5 7 quai Suffren
•
A stylish spot in which to play the This hightech bar on the port starts
fruit machines, the tables – or the early (open for breakfast at 7am) and
field. The complex also boasts a closes late (3am). Lunch and dinner
reputable restaurant and sleek are served before DJdriven house
lounge bar, both with great views. music kicks in.
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
6 Hostellerie de l’Abbaye
de La Celle, La Celle
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), MAP F5 • 10 pl du Général-de-Gaulle
taxes and extra charges. • 04 98 05 14 14 • Closed Jan, Tue &
Wed in winter • €€€
€ under €40 €€ €40–€60 €€€ over €60
Chef Nicolas Pierantoni uses produce
from this inn’s organic vegetable
1 Les Viviers du Pilon,
St-Tropez
garden to create Provençal fare.
MAP F5 • 2 av Général-de-Gaulle
• 06 52 20 15 90 • Closed Nov–Mar
• €€
Next to a fishmonger’s overlooking

the Golfe, this sunny restaurant
offers some of the freshest seafood
on the coast: the seared tuna with
homemade pesto is sublime.
2 Hostellerie Bérard,
La Cadière-d’Azur
MAP D5 • 6 rue Gabriel Péri • 04 94 Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle
90 11 43 • Closed Mon, Tue, mid-Jan–
early Feb • €€€
A former monastery offers distinctly
7 La Pomme de Pin,
Ramatuelle
non-monastic standards of luxury MAP F5 • Rte de Tahiti • 04 94 97 73
and innovative Provençal cuisine. 70 • Closed mid-Oct–Mar • €
Mouthwatering Sardinian cuisine in a
3 Café des Jardiniers,
Le Rayol-Canadel
convivial setting. Try the culurgiones,
filled with fresh sheep’s cheese.
MAP F5 • Le Domaine du Rayol, av
Jacques Chirac • 04 98 04 44 00
• Closed 2 weeks Jan, D • €
8 La Colombe, Hyères
MAP E6 663 rte de Toulon,
•
Enjoy a lunch of soup, omelette and La Bayorre • 04 94 35 35 16 • Closed

salads, using fresh produce from Mon & Tue • €€
these lovely waterside gardens just Enjoy generous portions of refined
west of St-Tropez. Provençal cooking at this restaurant.
4 La Vague d’Or, St-Tropez

MAP F5 Cheval Blanc, plage
•
9 La Bastide des Magnans,
Vidauban
de la Bouillabaisse • 04 94 55 91 00 MAP F5 • 32 av du Général Galliéni
• Closed L (except Wed), early Oct– • 04 94 99 43 91 • Closed Mon D &
early May • €€€ Wed D • €€
Dining at this three Michelin-starred La Bastide takes the simplest local
restaurant promises to be a sensory ingredients and comes up with a
experience. Try the set menus. balanced array of wonderful tastes.
5 La Brasserie, St-Raphaël
MAP F5 6 av de Valescure
•
0 La Petite Fontaine,
Collobrières
• 04 94 95 25 00 • Closed Sun & Mon, MAP E5 • Pl de la République • 04 94
Jan • € 48 00 12 • Closing times vary, call in
This hidden gem serves French advance • No credit cards • €
cuisine on a garden terrace shaded Excellent, no-frills regional cooking
by lemon and magnolia trees. in a characterful village restaurant.
See map on pp86–7

Nice
Nice – the very name sparkles with sunlight and glamour.
In the 19th century, the European aristocracy colonized the
place, drawn by the glorious Bay of Angels and the mild
winter weather. Artists such as Matisse and Chagall
were inspired by Nice’s limpid light and left their mark
here (see pp40–41). Millionaires and film stars would
soon follow. There is another Nice, however, rooted
in Mediterranean history. For centuries part of the
kingdom of Savoy, Nice voted to join France only
in 1860, and retains its own dialect and traditions.
It is a combination of all this that makes Nice so
Cathédrale attractive to a new generation of creative types, who in
St-Nicolas recent years have made the city livelier than ever.
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Top 10 Sights
see pp95–7
Places to Eat
4 km (2.5 miles)
see p99
Mediterranean Nightspots in Nice
0 metres 500 Sea see p98
0 yards 500
Nice ❮❮ 95
1 Musée Matisse
MAP Q1 164 av des Arènes
•
de Cimiez • Open 10am–5pm daily

(to 6pm May–Oct) • Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm
Shortly before his death in 1954,
Henri Matisse (see p45) donated a
collection of paintings to the city
he had lived in for 37 years. They
have found a superb home in a
17th-century Italianate villa (see p42)
on Cimiez Hill. Boosted by subse-
quent donations, the collection
affords a comprehensive overview of The exterior of MAMAC
his work, from 1890 through to the
gouache cut-outs of his later years. It
is made all the more effective by the
3 Musée d’Art Moderne
et d’Art Contemporain
display of items from his daily life. (MAMAC)
MAP Q4 • Pl Yves Klein • Open
Promenade des Anglais
2 and Promenade du
10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Apr: from
11am) • Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
Paillon 25 Dec • Adm
MAP N5–P5, Q4–5 Conceived as a triumphal arch on
The promenade des Anglais owes its four marble columns linked by
name to the English community that transparent walkways, the museum’s
funded its construction in 1822, in modern architecture is startlingly
order to give work to the local poor. effective. The collections trace the
Now flanked by traffic lanes, it sweeps story of the avant garde from the
majestically round the Bay of Angels, 1960s to the present day. Particularly
dotted with belle époque edifices, notable are works by the US Pop
notably the magnificent Le Negresco Artists and European New Realists,
hotel (see p142). In contrast, the including those by Nice’s own Yves
promenade du Paillion cuts a green Klein (see p40).
swathe through the city to the sea and
with its central waterway, it provides
a tranquil alternative to walking
4 Vieux Nice
The city’s heart (see pp20–21),
through busy streets. It is also a filled with the aroma and sounds of
venue for arts and leisure activities. all things Niçoise and famous for its
Baroque churches.
5 Musée des Beaux-Arts

MAP N5 33 av des Baumettes
•
• Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Nov–

Apr: from 11am) • Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm
The 19th-century town house built
for a Ukrainian princess is a marvel
of Neo-Classical excess. It holds
collections of art from the 17th to
early 20th centuries. The first floor
provides a panorama of 19th-century
French art, through to the Impres-
sionists and Post-Impressionists.
On the ground floor are 17th- and
18th- century works, including
The scenic promenade du Paillon sculptures by Rodin.
NICE’S EXPAT COMMUNITY

Led by the British, European (notably
Russian) nobility flocked to Nice in
wintertime from the early 19th century.
Vast, luxurious hotels, villas and places
of entertainment sprung up to
accommodate them. Nice became two
cities – one for the wealthy and
leisured northern visitors and another
for working Mediterranean natives.
This era disappeared with World War I,
but somehow the glamour never left.
Opulent interior at Villa Masséna
6 Villa Masséna 8 Parc Phoenix

and Musée des
MAP Q5 65 rue de France
• Arts Asiatiques
• Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon MAP N5 • 405 promenade des
(Nov–Apr: from 11am) • Closed Anglais • Park: open 9:30am–6pm
1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm daily (to 7:30pm Apr–Sep); adm
• Museum: open 10am–5pm Wed–
This elegant, 19th-century Italianate
villa houses the Musée d’Art et Mon (to 6pm Jul–Aug); closed 1 Jan,
d’Histoire, which has an interesting 1 May, 25 Dec
collection covering the period from This large floral park is a themed
Bonaparte to the 1930s. Rooms wonderland of world horticulture
are furnished in First Empire style, with, at its centre, Europe’s biggest
and highlights include Napoleon’s greenhouse. Inside the metal
coronation robe and death mask. and glass “marquee”, one wanders
through recreated warm-climate
7 Port Lympia
MAP R4
zones, ranging from an equatorial
forest to the Natal desert. Also
Dug in the 18th century, the port present in the park is the
never took off commercially and fascinating Asian Arts Museum,
remains quieter than most city a marble and glass construction
harbours. It is all the more charming that contains classical and
for that – a haven of boats and ships, contemporary creations from
surrounded by Italianate buildings. the major Asian civilizations.
Boats moored at Port Lympia

Nice ❮❮ 97
9 Cathédrale St-Nicolas
MAP N4 Av Nicolas II Open
• •
A MORNING WALK AROUND NICE
10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–5pm Boulevard Carabacel MAMAC
Sat, noon–6pm Sun • Closed during
private religious events • Adm Place St-Francois
The Russian community was almost Place
Place
as prominent in Nice as the British Magenta Vieux Nice
Garibaldi
in the late 19th and early 20th
Palais
centuries. This Russian Orthodox Lascaris
Tourist Place
cathedral was completed in 1912 Office Masséna Cours Saleya
and fully restored in 2015. Chantecler,
Le Negresco Baie des A nges
Start at the Tourist Office

(5 promenade des Anglais), then
turn left along avenue de Verdun
to place Masséna, the city’s central
square. Take in the glorious red
façades, gardens and ornamental
fountains before crossing to enter
Vieux Nice (see pp20–21) on rue
Alexander Mari. Turn right into
rue de l’Opéra and left into rue
St-François-de-Paule, an old-
fashioned street with long-
established shops, notably Auer
for confectionery (No. 7) and
Alziari for olive oil (No. 14).
Proceed to cours Saleya (see p20)
for the celebrated flower market,
then turn into tiny rue St-Gaëtan
to soak up the old town atmo-
sphere. Before leaving the old
town, make sure you take in
the cathedral, the magnificent
Exterior of the regal Le Régina villa Palais Lascaris (see p20), place
St-François (see p20) fish market
and the shop-filled rue Pairolière.
0 Cimiez Hill and Musée
National Marc Chagall Emerge into the relative peace
MAP Q3 • Av du Dr Ménard and 18th-century harmony of
• Museum: open 10am–6pm place Garibaldi, then take rue
Wed–Mon (to 5pm Nov–Apr) du Dr-Ciaudo to the splendid
• Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm
MAMAC (see p95). You can’t miss
the adjacent Bibliothèque Louis
When European nobility took to Nucéra, designed as a gigantic
wintering in Nice, they colonized human bust with a cube for a
Cimiez Hill with magnificent villas in head (2002), before continuing
styles ranging from Louis XV to Neo- along boulevard Carabacel with
Gothic and Oriental. Most impressive its elaborate mansions.
of all is the Le Régina, where Queen At place Magenta, forget culture
Victoria once stayed. Also on Cimiez and start shopping. For designer
Hill is the museum which houses fashion proceed into rue Paradis
Chagall’s 17 great works on the then avenue de Suède. Rue de
“Biblical Message” (see p40). The Rivoli then brings you to the
legendary Le Negresco (see
collection was supplemented
p143). If you’re feeling rich, lunch
by oil paintings, sketches, pastels in its Chantecler restaurant
and gouaches, donated by the artist. (see p99); if watching the pennies,
Chagall also created stained-glass have a look anyway: its interior
windows, a mosaic and tapestry abounds in ornate treasures.
for the museum.
See map on p94
Nightspots in Nice
1 Bar des Oiseaux
MAP Q5 Corner of rue
•
St Vincent & rue d’Abbaye • Closed

Sun & Mon
Francophiles will enjoy the theme
nights – philosophy, sing-songs and
cabaret – while the rest can sip a
drink amid a lively crowd at this
colourful bar in the old town.
2 La Civette du Cours
MAP Q5 1 cours Saleya
•
Wayne’s, a lively British-style pub
“Bar sympa”, they say in French,

which means friendly and appealing –
6 Wayne’s
MAP Q5 15 rue de la
•
it’s especially so for the young, Préfecture

artistic and mildly eccentric. This pub in Vieux Nice is a home-
from-home for British expats and
3 La Cave Romagnan
MAP P4 22 rue d’Angleterre
•
tourists. Good beer, pub food, live
music, table dancing and a terrace.
One of the oldest wine bars in town,
with live music on Saturday nights
and local art on the walls.
7 Ma Nolan’s
MAP Q5 2 rue St-François-
•
de-Paule
4 Le Six
MAP Q5 • 6 rue Raoul Bosio
This is the number-one Irish pub to
go to in Nice. Pints of Guinness,
In the heart of Vieux Nice, this gay- cooked dinners like grandma used to
friendly bar has live music, go-go make, televised sport and free Wi-Fi
dancers and karaoke every single make this a favourite hangout for
night in the summer. expats. (One of two locations.)
5 Le Bar du Negresco
MAP N5 37 promenade
•
8 High Club – Studio 47
MAP N5 45 promenade
•
des Anglais des Anglais

No techno here in the bar of the A popular disco with dancefloors
palatial Le Negresco (see p143). on two levels – the High Club for
Just a cosmopolitan ambience amid trendy 20–30-year-olds, and Studio
wood panelling and deep armchairs, 47 for over-30s in search of a more
which give the place the pleasingly refined atmosphere.
languorous air of a fine club.
9 Le Shapko Bar
MAP P4 5 rue Rossetti
•
• 07 55 67 89 89
A popular jazz club that features
a different band every night around
9:45pm, followed by late-night jam
sessions. Reach early for a good seat.
0 Le Glam
MAP P4 6 rue Eugène
•
Emanuel
International DJs play techno and
house music at this LGBTQ+ dance
Le Bar du Negresco club, which also hosts drag shows.
Nice ❮❮ 99
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
4 Racines Bruno Cirino
MAP P3 3 rue Clément
•
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), Roassal • 04 93 76 86 17 • €€

taxes and extra charges. Vegetables are the highlight of the
€ under €40 €€ €40–€60 €€€ over €60 menu at celebrated chef Bruno Cirino’s
modern bistro. The weekday set lunch
menu offers unbeatable value.
1 Le Chantecler
MAP N5 37 promenade des
•
5 Le Safari
Anglais 04 93 16 64 10 Closed
• MAP Q5 1 cours Saleya
• •
Mon, Tue, Wed–Sun L • €€€ • 04 93 80 18 44 • €€

Le Chantecler offers a truly palatial Seafood and meat dishes on one of
setting within the iconic Le Negresco the liveliest terraces of Vieux Nice.
for Virginie Basselot’s Michelin-
starred Provençal-inspired haute
cuisine (see p62).
6 La Merenda
MAP Q5 4 rue Raoul Bosio
•
• Closed Sat, Sun, bank hols

• No credit cards • €
Dominique le Stanc turned his back

on super-chef stress to open this
little restaurant. Note this reassuringly
simple place has no telephone.
7 Geppetto
MAP Q4 9 rue Chauvain
•
• 04 93 16 86 27 • Closed Mon, Tue,

Wed–Thu D • €
Reserve or be prepared to queue for
Nice’s most authentic Italian cuisine,
in the city’s friendliest dining room.
8 Le Boccaccio
MAP Q5 7 rue Masséna
•
• 04 93 87 71 76 • €€
Grand entrance to Le Chantecler The decor of this seafood restaurant
recalls that of a schooner – but it’s
2 Jan
MAP R4 • 12 rue Lascaris
stylish, rather than kitsch.
• 04 97 19 32 23 • Closed Sun, Mon,
Tue–Sat L • €€€ 9 Alounak
MAP P4 3 rue d’ Alsace Lorraine
•
South African chef Jan Hendrik van • 04 93 85 86 50 • Closed Sun L • €

der Westhuizen wows locals and One of the region’s top vegetarian
visitors alike with his twist on the and vegan restaurants (they also
traditional ingredients of Provence. serve meat and seafood dishes).
3 Chez Acchiardo
MAP Q5 38 rue Droite
•
0 La Petite Loge
MAP Q4 10 rue de la Loge
•
• 04 93 85 51 16 • Closed Sun • No • 04 93 01 63 28 • Closed Sun–Wed,

credit cards • € Thu–Sat L • €
Locals sip their apéritifs at the Atmospheric wine bar with delicious
counter and from the kitchen tapas-inspired dishes that marry
comes simple, flavoursome food, well with the fabulous array of wines.
including classic salade Niçoise. It’s tiny, so reserve in advance.
See map on p94
Monaco and the Riviera

The French Riviera, running from
Cannes to the Italian border, is one of the
most iconic stretches of Mediterranean
coastline. In the 19th century its balmy
winter climate attracted plutocrats, princes
and their entourages, and its clear
sunlight and vivid colours drew a new
Mosaic domed ceiling, breed of painters. In the 1920s it became
Villa Kérylos a summer resort for the first time, and in
the 1950s and 1960s it was the epitome
of jet-set chic. In high summer there seems to be hardly a square
metre of beach, a yacht mooring, parking space or café table left
vacant. Meanwhile, the enclave of Monaco, an independent state
since the 14th century, has a character and mystique all of its own.
MONACO AND THE RIVIERA
The
The Riviera
Riviera
Top 10 Sights Riviera Gardens Carros
Carros
see pp103–5 see p107
r
r
Va
Va
Places to Eat Riviera Nightspots

see p111 see p109
Places to Shop Beaches and
see p108 Watersports Vence
Vence
A8
A8
see p106
Cafés with Terraces St-Paul-
St-Paul-
see p110 de-Vence
de-Vence Nice
Nice
Château-Musée
Château-Musée
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Cagnes-sur-
Opio
Opio Mer
Mer
Saint-Cézaire- Grasse
Saint-Cézaire- Grasse
sur-Siagne
sur-Siagne
Valbonne
Valbonne Villeneuve-
Villeneuve- Nice-Côte
Nice-Côte
Loubet
Loubet d’Azur
d’Azur
2 2
D 2 5 6D 2 5 6 ALPES
ALPES - -
Mouans-Sartoux MARITIMES
Mouans-SartouxMARITIMES Biot
Biot
Tanneron
Tanneron A8 A8
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Mougins
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Vallauris
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Cannes
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below
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Previous pages Moustiers-Sainte-Marie in the Gorges du Verdon

Monaco and the Riviera ❮❮ 103
2 Villa Ephrussi de
Rothschild, St-Jean-
Cap-Ferrat
MAP H4 • 1 av Ephrussi de Rothschild
• Open 10am–6pm daily (Jul–Aug:
to 7pm); Nov–Feb: 2–6pm Mon–Fri,
10am–6pm Sat–Sun • Adm
The most palatial of all the villas
built in the Riviera’s plutocratic
Interior of Casino de Monte Carlo heyday was the dream of Beatrice
Ephrussi de Rothschild (1864–1934),
1 Casino de Monte Carlo
MAP H3 Pl du Casino, Monte •
a daughter of the famous wealthy
banking family. Its lavish Neo-
Carlo • Open 2pm–4am daily • www. Classical façade conceals an opulent
montecarlosbm.com interior of arcades surrounded by
Built in 1863 by Charles Garnier, this a covered courtyard hung with
monument to belle époque splendour magnificent tapestries. Superb
is also the heart of the region’s famous antiques and sketches by Fragonard
gambling industry – well worth a look. also feature, while the gardens
are just as sumptuous as the
interior (see p54).
ITALY
ITALY
Peille
Peille
A8 A8
4 4
20 20
D2 D2 Menton
Menton
seesee
Monaco
Monaco Roquebrune-
Roquebrune-
map,
map, Cap-Martin
Cap-Martin
below
below
ÈzeÈze
Villa
Villa Kérylos
Kérylos
Villa
Villa Ephrussi
Ephrussi de de Rothschild
Rothschild
Exterior of the Prince’s Palace
Monaco
Monaco
3 Prince’s
Monaco
Palace,
S
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LA
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MAP H4 • Pl du Palais • State Rooms
H
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Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily • Adm
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Built on the site of a 13th-century

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4 Musée Picasso, Antibes

MAP G4 Château Grimaldi,
•
Vieux Port • Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep:

10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Wed &
Fri Jul–Aug); mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 10am–
1pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun • Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 1 Nov, 25 Dec • Adm
A bishop’s palace in the Dark Ages,
this building then fell into the hands of
the Grimaldi lords of Monaco, before
becoming the seat of the royal
governors of the region. Today,
it is an art gallery. The museum View over Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
houses 300 works by Spanish artist
Pablo Picasso (see p45), who worked
here in 1946 and donated drawings,
6 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
MAP H3 Château de •
paintings and 100 ceramics. Works by Roquebrune: pl W Ingram, open

other artists, including Miró, Léger, Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm daily (Nov–Jan:
Ernst and Modigliani, are also on closed Fri); May–Sep: 10:30am–6:30pm
display (see p43). daily • Closed public hols, Fri Nov–
Jan • Adm • www.roquebrune-cap-
martin.fr
The Château de Roquebrune, perched
on its hilltop above Cap-Martin, is
said to be the oldest feudal castle
in France, built over 1,000 years
ago (see p49). It has been remodelled
often – by the Grimaldi clan and, in
the early 20th century, by a wealthy
Englishman, Sir William Ingram. At
sea level, a lovely coastal path leads
all the way to Monaco, passing
19th-century villas in lush gardens.
7 Musée Oceanographique
MAP H4 Ave St-Martin
•
Musée Picasso, Antibes • Open 10am–6pm daily (Jan–Mar:

to 5pm); Jul–Aug: 9:30am–8pm daily
5 Château-Musée
Grimaldi,
• Adm • www.oceano.mc
Founded by Prince Albert I in 1910,

Haut-de-Cagnes this clifftop museum features rare
MAP G4 • 9 pl du Château • Open species of marine plants and animals,
10am–noon (Jul & Aug: to 1pm), including a shark and coral lagoon.
2–6pm (Oct–Mar: to 5pm) Wed–Mon
• Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec • Adm
Built in 1309, this castle’s battlements THE GRIMALDIS OF MONACO

dominate the landscape of Haut- Monaco’s Grimaldi dynasty is one of
de-Cagnes. Within its walls is a the oldest ruling families in the world.
sumptuous palace, built in 1620 François Grimaldi, disguised as a monk,
by Jean Henri Grimaldi. Today it seized the castle in 1297. By 1489
France and Savoy recognized Monaco’s
houses a clutch of museums and
independence. In 1612 Honore II was
art collections including a museum the first lord to take the title of prince.
of modern Mediterranean art, a During the French Revolution the
museum dedicated to the olive prince and his family were ousted,
tree, and a group of portraits of to be restored to their throne in 1814.
the 1930s chanteuse, Suzy Solidor.
8 Musée Renoir,
Cagnes-sur-Mer
A MORNING TOUR OF THE ROCK
MAP G4 • 19 chemin des Collettes
• Open Apr–Sep: 10am–noon & 2–6pm
Chapelle
de la Visitation
Wed–Mon (10am–1pm Jun–Sep); Oct– Prince's Rue Basse
Mar: 10am–noon & 2–5pm Wed–Mon Palace
• Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm
The former home of artist Auguste Avenue

Saint-Martin Musée
Renoir has been preserved as Oceanographique
it was at the time of his death in S aint-Mar tin
1919 (see p45). Eleven of his G ardens
paintings are on display, including
Les Grandes Baigneuses (1892), Start this walk around the
along with some of his sculptures historical part of Monaco where
and works by his friends Raoul one of Europe’s oldest ruling
Dufy and Pierre Bonnard. families, the Grimaldis, founded
their principality. Visit the state
9 Salle
Menton
des Mariages, apartments and the Prince’s
Palace (see p103), taking in
the lavish salons, throne room
MAP H3 • Hôtel de Ville, 17 rue de and 17th-century chapel. In
la République • Open 8:30am–noon one wing is the Musée des
& 2–4:30pm Mon–Fri • Closed public Souvenirs Napoléoniens (Open
hols • Adm Apr–Nov: 10am–6pm daily; Dec–
Jean Cocteau decorated this room in Mar: 10:30am–5pm daily; adm)
Menton’s town hall in 1957, adorning housing over 1,000 items,
including many of Napoleon
it with colourful images of a fishing
Bonaparte’s personal effects.
couple and the story of Orpheus and
Eurydice. More of his work can be From place du Palais it is a short
seen in the two branches of the walk along rue Basse, one of the
Musée Jean Cocteau (see p43). most picturesque streets in the
old quarter, to the Chapelle de
la Visitation, on place de la
0 Villa Kérylos,
Beaulieu-sur-Mer
Visitation (Open 10am–4pm
Tue–Sun; adm). Housed in the
MAP H4 • Impasse Gustave Eiffel Baroque chapel are works by
• Open May & Oct: 10am–6pm daily artists Rubens and Zurbaran.
(Jun–Sep: to 7pm); Nov–Apr: 10am– Leaving the chapel, turn right
5pm • Adm • www.villakerylos.fr and double back along avenue
Theodore Reinach (1860–1928) created St-Martin to discover the
this stunning building as a Classical astonishing sea creatures
Greek villa, in imitation of the palace in the Musée Oceanographique.
of Delos in Greece. Copies of ancient You’ll need to allow at least
90 minutes here to view the
mosaics and frescoes evoke the
tanks of marine fauna from all
Greek city states. over the world. Don’t miss
the aquarium with its fearsome
Interior of Villa Kérylos sharks. Pause for an early
lunch in the museum’s restaurant
and feast your eyes on the
stunning views of the Riviera and
the Esterel hills from its terrace
before rounding off your visit
with the 30-minute ride on the
Monaco Tours tourist train.
This leaves from the museum
on a round trip past the port,
the palace, casino and the
ornamental gardens.

Beaches and Watersports

1 Vieux
MAP F5
Port, St-Raphaël
6 Port Santa Lucia,
St-Raphaël
St-Raphaël is the coast’s top dive MAP F5
centre, with shipwrecks from World You can try eight different types
War II and a range of wall dives off of watersports here, including
the rocky coast. There are several parascending, waterskiing and
dive outfits at the Vieux Port – a list windsurfing, just outside St-Raphaël.
is available from the tourist office.
2 Plage Helios, 7 Théoule-sur-Mer

MAP G4
Juan-les-Pins The pretty beach at Théoule-sur-
MAP G4 • Open Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm Mer, surrounded by hills, bustles in
daily • Adm summer. Kayaks, pedalos and more
This chic private beach, although it equipment are available to rent.
does not offer any watersports, is
perfect for lazing on the soft sands.
8 Société des Régates
d’Antibes
3 Plage des Fossettes,
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
MAP G4 • Quai Nord Port Vauban
• Open 8am–sunset daily
MAP H4 This yacht club, with centres in
Fringed by pine trees, this tranquil Juan-les-Pins and Antibes,offers
beach is popular with locals. Bring windsurfing, dinghy and catamaran
a snorkel: there’s a variety of sea life sailing and yacht charters for all levels.
to be spotted in the waters here.
Plage d’Agay
4 MAP G5 9 Plage Belles-Rives,
Juan-les-Pins
MAP G4 • 33 bd Edouard Baudoin
Watersports on this beautiful beach • Open Jun–Sep: 9am–7pm daily
• Adm
include waterskiing, windsurfing
and parascending, as well as more This hotel beach offers a great range
relaxing boat excursions. of adrenaline sports that include
bungee-jumping and parascending.
5 Plage de la Croisette
MAP G4 Open May–Sep:
•
0 Plage du Palais des

8am–sunset daily • Adm Festivals, Cannes
One long beach stretches along the MAP G4
Cannes esplanade, sectioned off into Perhaps not the most luxurious
tiny private beaches, with parasols, beach in Cannes, but it is totally
loungers and snack bars. Most free and no more crowded than
of the beaches offer waterskiing. the paid beaches.
Plage de la Croisette
Riviera Gardens
1 Japanese
Monaco
Garden,
5 Villa Ephrussi de
Rothschild
MAP H4 • Av Princesse Grace, Monte Gorgeous formal gardens and lily
Carlo • Open 9am–5:45pm or 6:45pm ponds surround the pink-and-white
daily, depending on season villa built by Beatrice Ephrussi de
This formal garden is a triumph Rothschild (see p103).
of Zen horticulture and a striking
contrast to most of the classic
French gardens of the Riviera.
6 Parc Fontvieille and
Princess Grace Rose
Garden, Monaco
MAP H4 • Av des Guelfes • Open
sunrise–sunset daily
Here are palm and olive groves,
plus a lake surrounded by 4,000
roses planted in memory of
Princess Grace of Monaco.
7 Jardin Exotique, Èze

MAP H4 Rue du Château
•
• Open daily from 9am; Apr, May &

Jun: to 6:30pm; Jul–Sep: to 7:30pm;
Villa Eilenroc Gardens Nov–Mar: to 4:30pm • Adm
The exotic gardens around the cliff-
2 Villa Eilenroc Gardens,
Cap d’Antibes
top village offer superb sea views.
MAP G4 • Impasse de Beaumont

•Open 10am–4pm Wed & Sat • Adm 8 Jardin Botanique Val
Rahmeh, Menton
Apr–Sep MAP H3 • Av St-Jacques • Open
Charles Garnier, designer of the Monte Wed–Mon; Apr–Sep: 9:30am–
Carlo Casino, built this villa in a park 12:30pm & 2–6pm; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–
with trees from all over the world. 12:30pm & 2–5pm • Closed 1 May
• Adm
3 Jardin
Monaco
Exotique, Laid out by Lord Radcliffe in 1905,
this garden is planted with a wide
MAP H4 • 62 bd du Jardin Exotique range of subtropical shrubs.
• Open daily from 9am; Feb–Apr &
Oct: to 6pm; May–Sep: to 7pm;
Nov–Jan: to 5pm or dusk • Closed 9 Jardin Botanique
Thuret, Cap d’Antibes
19 Nov, 25 Dec • Adm • www.jardin- MAP G4 • 62 bd du Cap • Open
exotique.mc Mon–Fri; summer: 8am–6pm;
The largest collection of succulent winter: 8:30am–5:30pm • Closed
rock plants in the world, plus a 60-m public hols
(200-ft) deep cave with spectacular Superb collection of trees and shrubs
limestone formations (see p53). founded by Gustave Thuret in 1857.
4 Casino
Monaco
Gardens,
0 Parc de Vaugrenier,
Villeneuve-Loubet
MAP H4 • Pl du Casino, Monte MAP G4 • Av de Vaugrenier • Open
Carlo • Open 9am–sunset daily Apr–Oct: 7am–8pm daily; Nov–Mar:
Laid out around the casino 8am–6pm daily
(see p103) these are classic 19th- Numerous rare plants can be seen in
century gardens, with trim lawns this park, which also features walking
and water features. trails and a freshwater lagoon.
Places to Shop
1 Rue d’Antibes, Cannes
MAP G4 5 Vallauris
MAP G4
For that absolutely fabulous Cannes Vallauris’s moribund pottery industry
look, head straight for rue d’Antibes was revived when Picasso took an
and its string of designer boutiques, interest in the craft, and more than
all breathtakingly expensive and 100 local potters sell their work on
dazzlingly ostentatious. its streets in summer.
2 Avenue des Beaux-Arts

and Allée Serge de 6 Metropole Shopping
Monte-Carlo, Monaco
Diaghilev, Monaco MAP H4
MAP H4 Get the Monaco look at an affordable
With plenty of cash floating around, price at this shopping centre which
Monaco is a magnet for designer houses a selection of designer
shops and haute couture. Try these shops selling prêt-à-porter clothes,
two streets for the latest look. shoes and accessories.
3 La Croisette, Cannes
MAP G4 7 Galeries
Menton
Lafayette,
Cannes’ famous esplanade is MAP H3 Rue de la République

•
a great place for shopping or You will find four levels of inter-
window-shopping, with famous national designer and brand-name
labels such as Chanel (at No. 5), clothes and accessories for men,
Saint Laurent (No. 17), Celine women and children, all under one
(No. 43), Louis Vuitton (No. 22) roof. There is free parking, too.
and Cartier (No. 57).
8 Cours
MAP G4
Masséna, Antibes
One of the last authentic covered

markets on the Riviera bustles with
life every morning until noon. It is
the perfect place for buying all sorts
of local delicacies to take home.
9 Antiques
Antibes
Market,
MAP G4 • Pl Audiberti, pl de Martyrs
de la Résistance, pl Nationale
Rummage through stalls – selling
everything from cut glass and
statuary to antique porcelain, lace,
Produce on sale at Le Marché Forville embroidery and linen – in search of
something small enough to carry
4 Le Marché Forville,
Cannes
home. Thursday and Saturdays,
from 8am to noon.
MAP G4
This open-air market overflows
with flowers, seasonal fruit and
0 Villeneuve-Loubet
MAP G4
vegetables, fresh fish and local Villeneuve-Loubet supports a
products. It’s a great place to buy thriving arts scene and is full of
Provençal delicacies to take home. artists’ and sculptors’ studios where
Open daily except Mondays, when you can invest in an original work of
it becomes a flea market. art by a living artist.
Riviera Nightspots
1 Baoli, Cannes
MAP G4 La Croisette
•
5 Casino Barrière Le
Croisette, Cannes
• Open from 8pm Tue–Sat (nightly MAP G4 • 1 Jetée Albert Édouard/
Apr–Oct and during festivals) 1 Espace Lucien Barrière • Open daily
• www.baolicannes.com to 5am in summer • www.casinos
One of the Riviera’s best venues, barriere.com
this cool but expensive club- Within walking distance of the Palais
restaurant attracts the likes of Bono des Festivals and overlooking the
and Naomi Campbell to its Asian- busy Croisette, this casino offers one
style garden of delights. of the city’s largest and most elegant
gaming rooms.
2 Casino de Monte Carlo
This is the epitome of Riviera
6 Charly’s Bar, Cannes
glamour, luxury and gambling MAP G4 5 rue du Suquet
•
excess (see p103). • 06 98 92 40 41

With its stone-walled, cave-like
interior, open-door policy, and DJs
and dancing every night, the party
crowd keeps coming back to this
old favourite.
7 Blue Gin, Monaco

MAP H4 The Monte-Carlo
•
Bay Hotel, 40 ave Princess Grace

• 00 377 98 06 03 60
As the name suggests, gin is the

drink of choice here, with 17 different
varieties on offer. Guests can admire
the beautiful sea view while enjoy-
ing the drinks on the terrace.
Casino de Monte Carlo
3 Carlton Beach Club, 8 Medusa, Cannes

MAP G4 Pl Franklin Roosevelt
•
Cannes Located on Cannes’ legendary Palm

MAP G4 58 bd de la Croisette
•
Beach, this glamorous restaurant
Enjoy refreshing cocktails and a and club is known for its upscale
Mediterranean menu along with cabaret performances and cocktails
1950s-style Riviera glamour at served till late.
this upscale beach club. Relax on
the beach, on the central pontoon,
at the bar or in the restaurant.
9 Stars ’N’ Bars, Monaco
MAP H4 6 quai Antoine 1er
•
• www.starsnbars.com
4 Jimmy’z, Monaco
MAP H4 Le Sporting Club, av
•
One of the most popular club-
restaurants in Monaco, whose
Princess Grace • 00 377 98 06 70 68 transatlantic music and menu attract
• Open 11:30pm–dawn daily
a young, wealthy clientele.
Opened in 1974, Jimmy’z is still
the place to party in Monaco,
attracting the rich, famous and
0 Chrystie, Cannes
MAP G4 22 rue Macé
• • 04 93
beautiful, and hosting top-name 99 66 91 • Closed Sun & Mon

DJs. Of course all this glamour A restaurant during the day and
comes at a steep price. Make sure cocktail bar at night, this is a great
you dress to impress. place for brunch as well as dancing.

Cafés with Terraces

1 Café de Paris,
Monte Carlo
terrace, with breathtaking sea
views. Try the great Mediterranean
MAP H4 Pl du Casino
•
fare (see p63).
In front of the casino (see p103),
under white umbrellas and flower
baskets with the Mediterranean in
5 Le Jardin du Martinez,
Cannes
the background, the Café de Paris MAP G4 • Hôtel Martinez, 73 bd de
is a lovely place for an al fresco la Croisette
meal or a drink. Grapefruit and lemon trees give this
terrace café serving Mediterranean
2 Le Majestic Barrière,
Cannes
dishes the air of a Provençal village
square – albeit a very chic one.
MAP G4 10 Bd de la Croisette
•
Sip your drinks slowly on this deeply

fashionable hotel terrace that attracts
6 Villa Ephrussi de
Rothschild, St-Jean-
the crème de la crème of the film Cap-Ferrat
business during the International The villa’s delightful tea room and
Film Festival. It’s very pricey – a terrace, overlooking beautiful gardens
glass of bubbly here costs as much and with panoramic views of the bay of
as a meal in many other spots. Villefranche, is one of the most magical
and idyllic places for a light lunch or
3 Pavyllon, Monte Carlo
MAP H4 Hôtel Hermitage,
•
tea along the entire Riviera (see p103).
sq Beaumarchais
This upscale restaurant in the belle
7 Bar du Mas, Mougins
MAP G4 Le Mas Candille,
•
époque Hôtel Hermitage has a slush bd Clément Rebuffel

Mediterranean terrace garden over- Admire the Grasse countryside as you
looking the port, the old town and sip a chilled glass of rosé on the stone
the sparkling sea. terrace of this luxury hotel. It’s a more
affordable option than staying here.
4 La Chèvre d’Or, Èze
MAP H4 6 rue du Barri
•
8 Plage de la Garoupe,
• 04 92 10 66 66 • Closed early Nov– Cap d’Antibes
early Mar, Mon (Mar), Mon–Wed L MAP G4 Closed Sun pm
•
(Jul & Aug) • €€€ Walk along the eastern shore of

It’s worth staying at this gorgeous this exclusive part of the Riviera,
château hotel (see p144) just to and you’ll come to a short strip of
enjoy breakfast on its clifftop private beaches with several cafés.
9 Mirazur, Menton
MAP H3 30 av Aristide Briand
•
The most breathtaking views over

Menton and its port are from the
lofty garden terrace of the chic
restaurant Mirazur, next to the
oldest avocado tree in France.
0 Le Cactus, Èze
MAP H4 7 la Placette
•
If your budget won’t stretch to the

Chèvre d’Or, this modest café has the
same stunning views for a fraction of
La Chèvre d’Or terrace, Èze the price and serves delicious crêpes.
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
6 3.14 Plage, Cannes
MAP G4 63 bd de la Croisette
•
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), • 04 93 94 25 43 • €€

taxes and extra charges. Eat in the shade of wide parasols at
€ under €40 €€ €40–€60 €€€ over €60 this beachside restaurant overlooking
the bay, where the chefs focus on
organic and gluten-free dishes.
7 La Tonnelle, Île
St-Honorat
MAP G4 • 04 92 99 54 08 • Closed D,
mid-Nov–mid-Dec • €€€
This restaurant offers splendid views
and a fish-based lunch. Wines are
made by the resident monks.
Terrace of Maison de Bacon
1 Maison de Bacon, Cap 8 Le Louis XV, Monte Carlo

MAP H4 Hôtel de Paris, pl du
•
d’Antibes Casino • 00 377 98 06 88 64 • Closed

MAP G4 • 664 bd de Bacon • 04 93 Tue & Wed, Mon L, Thu L & Fri L; late
61 50 02 • Closed Mon, Tue L, Wed L, Nov–late Dec • €€€
Nov–Feb • €€€ The marvellous Louis XV offers a
This legendary fish restaurant has modern culinary experience inspired
fine views over the Baie des Anges. by the French Riviera (see p62)
2 La Table du Royal,
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
MAP H4 • 3 av Jean Monnet • 04 93
76 31 00 • Closed mid-Nov–mid-Jan
& mid-Aug–Sep • €€€
La Table du Royal offers elegant,
modern cuisine and Riviera views.
3 La Cave, Cannes
MAP G4 9 bd de la •
République • 04 93 99 79 87 The terrace at Les Deux Frères

• Closed Mon & Sat L, Sun • €€
La Cave has built its stellar reputation

for excellent food since 1989
9 Les Deux Frères,
Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
MAP H4 • Pl des Deux Frères • 04 93
Le Vauban, Antibes
4 MAP G4 • 7 rue Thuret • 04 93
28 99 00 • Closed mid-Oct–mid-Nov
• €€€
34 33 05 • Closed Mon & Tue, Provençal dishes based on lamb,

1 week June • €€ duck and seafood are served in this
Le Vauban offers perfect renditions delightful restaurant.
of French and Provençal classics.
5 MAP H4 Pulcinella, Monte Carlo 0 Le Pérousin, Cagnes-

sur-Mer
• 17 rue du Portier MAP G4 • 4 rue Hippolyte Guis • 09
• 00 377 93 30 73 61 • €€ 53 55 61 92 • Closed Nov • €€
Delicious Italian food is the speciality The intimate setting is as charming as
in this lovely restaurant. Photos of the seasonal cuisine, which includes
celebrity regulars line the walls. dishes cooked on an open fire.
Alpes-Maritimes
Technically, the Riviera is part of the Alpes-Maritimes département,
but inland the landscape changes dramatically and the region’s
forested mountains, deep river gorges and medieval hilltop villages
seem a million miles from the busy seaside resorts. High in the
mountains is the Mercantour, a region of rocky summits and glaciers,
which shelters chamois, ibex and rare lammergeier vultures.
In winter, Alpes-Maritimes is one of France’s favourite ski areas.
1 La Trophée d’Auguste
MAP H3 Av Albert 1er, La Turbie
•
• Open Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–mid-May:

10am–1:30pm & 2:30–5pm; mid-May–
mid-Sep: 9:30am–1pm & 2:30–6:30pm
• Closed public hols • Adm
This remarkable Roman monument

is the only one of its kind still in
existence. It can be seen from afar
and offers fine views along the Riviera.
A museum shows a 3D film about
La Trophée d’Auguste at La Turbie the monument’s history (see p42).
ALPES-MARITIMES
0 km 10 Parc N a t i o n a l
d u M e r c a n t o ur Tende
0 miles 10
Beuil Saint-Sauveur-
Guillaumes sur-Tinée Vallée des
Merveilles La
02
Gorges
D9
Brigue
Ti né e
r
Va
du Cians Belvédère
Saorge
Puget- La Bollène- Forêt de
Théniers Vésubie Turini
04
D 22 05
D62
Touet-sur-Var
Breil-sur-Roya
Entrevaux Lucéram
Va r D6
202
Sospel
Roquesteron Vallée de
la Vésubie I TA LY
Va r
A L PE S - MA R IT IM E S Peille
A10
St-Martin-du-Var Ste-Agnès
D2 Courmes
Peillon A8
Lo u p Carros Menton
Gorges du
Loup Beaulieu- La Trophée d'Auguste
sur-Mer
D60 85 Vence Monaco
Gourdon Nice
St-Paul-de- Villefranche-
sur-Mer Me dite r rane an
St-Cézaire Vence
Sea
Biot Cagnes-
Grasse sur-Mer
Top 10 Sights
Mougins A8 see pp112–15
VA R Antibes
Vallauris
Places to Eat
Mandelieu- Juan-les-Pins see p117
la-Napoule Cannes
el Île Sainte-Marguerite Mountain Villages
N7 te r see p116
l'Es Théoule-
si f de sur-Mer
Îles de Lérins
Mas Corsica
Alpes-Maritimes ❮❮ 113
The medieval village of Vence, perched atop a crag
2 Vence
MAP G4 4 Gorges
MAP G3
du Cians
Vence is a gem of the region, with an The deep gorge carved through the
unbeatable location on a high crag, mountains by the River Cians is
and sweeping views. The medieval made all the more spectacular by
centre is ringed by formidable battle the deep red of the exposed rock.
ment walls and is entered through a The river descends 1,600 m (5,250 ft)
massive stone gateway, to a labyrinth in just 25 km (15 miles) between the
of cobbled streets and tall stone hilltop villages of Beuil and Touet
houses. A small cathedral, dating surVar, where the Cians meets the
from the 11th century and built on larger river Var. The canyon (see p50)
the site of a Roman temple, stands is at its narrowest and most spec
on place Clemenceau. tacular at Pra d’Astier, which is about
midway between the two villages.
3 Biot
MAP G4 • Musée Fernand Léger:
Chemin du Val-de-Pôme; open 10am–

5pm Wed–Mon (to 6pm May–Oct);
closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec; adm; www.
musees-nationaux-alpesmaritimes.fr/
fleger • La Verrerie de Biot: Chemin
des Combes; open 10am–1pm &
2–6pm Mon–Sat, 10:30am–1:30pm
& 2:30–6pm Sun & public hols; adm;
www.verreriebiot.com • www.biot.fr
The pretty little town of Biot sits
on a hilltop among pinewoods. It
is renowned for its highquality
decorative glassware, which you
can watch being blown at La
Verrerie de Biot. The wonderful
Musée Fernand Léger, also in the
village, contains more than 400
drawings and paintings by the
artist (see p44). Red rocks of Gorges du Cians
5 Vallée des Merveilles and

Musée des Merveilles SKIING IN THE ALPES D’AZUR
MAP H2 • Musée des Merveilles:
av du 16 Septembre 1947, Tende;
open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon (to 5pm
mid-Sep–mid-Jun); closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 2 wks mid-Nov, 25 Dec
High in the Parc National du
Mercantour (see p50), this valley
shelters a treasury of Bronze Age
art (see p36). Rock carvings dating
from 1800–1500 BC are scattered
over the slopes of the 2,870-m High above the balmy coast, the
slopes and summits of the Alpes d’Azur
(9,400-ft) Mont Bégo. They are
(above) are deeply covered in snow in
almost impossible to find without winter, with excellent skiing conditions,
a guide, but the Musée des and there are more than 250 pistes,
Merveilles has many examples. ranging from black to green runs,
in well-equipped resorts. The best
known is Isola 2000, with three black
runs, 13 red, 22 blue and seven green.
villages, and the river is at its

most scenic where it passes
through the Gorges de la Vésubie,
a canyon of coloured rock walls.
Petroglyphs, Vallée des Merveilles

7 Forêt
MAP H3
de Turini
A moist micro-climate, created by

6 Vallée de la Vésubie
MAP H3 www.vesubian.com
•
warm sea air rising over the cooler
mountains, waters this mountain
Two streams merge at St-Martin- forest, where thick beech, maple
Vésubie to form the River Vésubie, and chestnut woods cloak the lower
which flows through landscapes slopes, and huge pines rise on the
of pinewoods, meadows, forested higher mountainsides. From Pointe
peaks and narrow canyons to join the des Trois Communes, on the fringe
Var 24 km (15 miles) north of Nice. of the forest at an altitude of 2,082 m
The valley is dotted with attractive (6,830 ft), there is a panorama of the
Alpine foothills and the Parc National
Pointe des Trois Communes du Mercantour (see p50).
8 Gorges
MAP G3
du Loup A WALK THROUGH MEDIEVAL
VENCE
In this most spectacular of the Rue du
Portail Lévis
region’s river canyons (see p51), the Rue de la Coste
River Loup has sliced its way deep Auberge des

into the rock to create a series of Seigneurs Passage Rue du
Seminaire
Cahours
waterfalls. These include Cascade de Château de
Villeneuve
Courmes, rapids and deep potholes, Place du Cathédrale
Notre-Dame
such as the Saut du Loup. Frêne
de la Nativité
9 Grasse
Place
Clemenceau
MAP G4 Musée Internation
•
Rue du Marché
ale de la Parfumerie: 2 bd du Jeu de Place Surian
Ballon; open 10am–5:30pm daily
(May–Sep: to 7pm); closed 1 Jan, A giant ash tree, Le Frêne (The
1 May, 25 Dec; adm; Musée du Ash) is your landmark for the
Parfum: 20 bd Fragonard; open beginning of this twohour stroll
9am–6:30pm daily through the old quarter of Vence
Grasse’s air is scented by the (see p113), with its stonepaved
perfume factories for which it has streets and medieval houses,
been famous for over four centuries. which huddle inside a ring of
13thcentury battlements. Before
Vast quantities of blooms are proces
entering the walls through the
sed here for their essential oils, and a 16thcentury Porte du Peyra, visit
spectacular jasmine festival is held the Château de Villeneuve, which
each August. You can buy perfumes hosts a changing programme of
at the Musée Internationale de la modern art and design exhibitions.
Parfumerie.The Musée du Parfum
After walking through the
in the Fragonard factory traces the gateway, turn right, and allow half
history of perfume, with displays an hour to walk along the rue du
of rare perfumery objects such as Marché, where the rows of shops
medieval pomanders. selling herbs, fruit, fresh pasta and
fish will make your mouth water.
At the end of the rue du Marché,
turn left and walk across place
Surian and place Clemenceau to
the Cathédrale NotreDame de
la Nativité – look out for Roman
inscriptions dating back almost
2,000 years on the masonry of the
buildings either side of it, carved
when Vence was the Roman
settlement of Vintium. Also look for
the oak choir stalls carved with
satirical figures, commissioned
by a witty 17thcentury bishop.
The diminutive Fondation Maeght Leave the square by its north
side, through the arched passage
0 Fondation Maeght,
St-Paul-de-Vence
Cahours, then walk up rue du
Séminaire and turn left to follow
One of the finest small modern art the old walls along rue de la
museums in the world, the Maeght Coste. Leave the old quarter by
the Portail Levis, which takes you
(see p33) includes work by Marc back on to place du Frêne. There
Chagall, Joan Miró, Fernand Léger, are several cafés and restaurants
Alexander Calder, Alberto Giacometti, here, such as Auberge des
and many more 20thcentury artists. Seigneurs (see p117) where you
The only permanent displays are the can enjoy a drink and snack.
large sculptures in the grounds.
See map on p112
Mountain Villages
1 St-Paul-de-Vence
The prettiest and best known
in World War II, it has now been
lovingly restored.
of the region’s villages perchés
(see p88), St-Paul (see pp32–3)
was first built as a refuge from
6 St-Cézaire-sur-Siagne
MAP F4 Grotte de St-Cézaire:
•
Saracen raiders. From its ram- rte de Grasse; open 10am–noon,

parts there are terrific views 2–5pm (Jun-Aug: to 6pm); closed
down to the sea. mid-Nov–Jan; adm
This hill village has been inhabited
since the Roman era and has
medieval walls and watch towers.
Nearby are the grottoes of St-Cézaire,
an underground wonderland.
7 Saorge
MAP H3
The clifftop location rivals Gourdon’s
for dizzying effect, and the village is
a little-changed crescent of 15th- to
17th-century pastel houses. It has two
Beautiful St-Paul-de-Vence pretty churches, and splendid views.
2 Peillon
MAP H3 8 La Brigue
MAP H2
Peillon’s red-tiled houses seem to Unspoiled La Brigue has cobbled
grow out of the hilltop itself, rising in streets, arcaded buildings and the
tiers to a cobbled square with great church of Notre-Dame-des-Fontaines,
views of the forested valley. It seems with its superb medieval frescoes.
barely changed since the Middle Ages.
3 Puget-Théniers 9 Ste-Agnès
MAP H3
MAP G3 At 671 m (2,200 ft), Ste-Agnès is the
The village of Puget-Théniers highest of the coastal villages perchés.
stands where the Roudoule river There are some great walking trails
meets the Var, overlooked by the nearby, in the Gorbio valley.
ruins of the Château-Musée Grimaldi
(see p104). The 13th-century Knights
Templar church has a beautiful
0 Lucéram
MAP H3
16th-century altarpiece (see p47). Here, tall old houses are set around
a 17th-century Rococo church and
4 Gourdon
MAP G4
an onion-domed clock tower.
From the village square, where Medieval village of Lucéram

the hillside drops into a limestone
gorge, you can see all the way
down the Loup valley to the coast.
5 Sospel
MAP H3
Colourful arcaded houses and
a Baroque church are features of
this pretty mountain village near
the Italian border. Badly damaged
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
6 Auberge
Vence
des Seigneurs,
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), MAP G4 • 1 pl du Frêne • 04 93 58 04

taxes and extra charges. 24 • Closed Sun, Mon, mid-Dec–mid-
Jan • €
€ under €40 €€ €40–€60 €€€ over €60
Spit-roasted local lamb and chicken
are among the mouth-watering
1 Les Terraillers, Biot
MAP G4 11 Chemin Neuf
•
choices at this friendly medieval inn
complete with an open fire.
• 04 93 65 01 59 • Closed Mon, Tue,
mid-Oct–Nov • €€€
This sophisticated restaurant is
7 L’Oasis, La Napoule
MAP G4 6 rue Jean-Honoré
•
set in a 16th-century pottery mill. Carle • 04 93 49 95 52 • Closed mid-

The dishes are rich and flavourful Dec–end Jan, Sun–Tue, Wed–Fri L
• €€€ (bistro €€)
and the wine list superb.
A Riviera institution, L’Oasis offers a
2 La Bastide St-Antoine,
Grasse
unique menu in a beautiful setting,
plus a deli, bakery and wine cellar.
MAP G4 • 48 av Henri Dunant
• 04 93 70 94 94 • Closed last
week Feb • €€€
With a Michelin star, this fine
restaurant serves regional dishes
on the garden terrace of a charming
17th-century Provençal house.
3 L’Ambroisie, Vence
MAP G4 37 av Alphonse
•
Toreille • 04 93 58 78 58 • Closed
Mon L, Tue, Wed • €€
Chef Bruno Seillery serves refined Delicious dessert at L’Oasis
Provençal cuisine in this delightfully
updated former 17th-century chapel.
8 Auberge
Peillon
de la Madone,
4 Les Arcades, Biot

MAP G4 14/16 pl des
•
MAP H3 • 3 pl Auguste Arnulf
• 04 93 07 91 17 • Closed Wed,
Arcades • 04 93 65 01 04 • Closed mid-Nov–Jan • €€€
Mon (& Sun D in winter) • €€ Enjoy classic Provençal cuisine
Run by three generations of the on this restaurant’s terrace
same family, this unpretentious overlooking a medieval village.
inn, decorated with colourful works
of art, is popular with locals for
its fixed-price menus of traditional
9 Les Lavandes, Vence
MAP G4 8 rue du Marché
•
dishes such as pistou soup. • 04 93 32 61 52 • Closed Thu • €€

The husband-and-wife team here
5 Hostellerie
La Turbie
Jérôme, serve delicious Franco-Thai cuisine.
MAP H3 • 20 rue du Comté de

Cessole • 04 92 41 51 51 • Closed L, 0 La Farigoule, Vence
MAP G4 15 av Henri Isnard
•
Sun, Mon, Dec–mid-Feb • €€€ • 04 93 58 01 27 • Closed Mon, Tue,

Only open in the evenings, this fine late Nov–Christmas • €€
restaurant serves inventive dishes Classic Provençal cuisine attracts
such as scampi in a verveine crust. regulars to this cosy spot.
See map on p112
Alpes-de-Haute-
Provence
One of the highest and wildest parts of France, and
indeed Europe, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence presents
a sharp contrast to the foothills and valleys of the
Var to the south and the rolling Vaucluse to the west.
Summers are hot, winters are bitterly cold, and life
in these harsh mountains is hard – which is why
so much of Haute-Provence is sparsely inhabited.
The Durance river flows through the region to meet
the Rhône north of Aix, and tributaries such as the
Verdon cut spectacular gorges through the limestone
rock of the mountains, adding to the breathtaking
views, cool clear air and pockets of wilderness
Stained
typical of this beautiful region. The area also offers
glass at a range of sports from whitewater canoeing, to
Moustiers hang-gliding, to high-country walking.
ALPES-DE-HAUTE-PROVENCE
Veynes Lac de Saint-Paul D90

D942 0
Serre-Ponçon
D99 4 Uba
Serres Jausiers ye
ce
an
r D900
HAUTES-ALPES
tte
D6
Du
Ub
ay
Turriers
4
e
Barcelonnette
A51
D1 La Motte- Seyne-
07 du-Caire La Foux
51
Mont
D2
5 les-Alpes d'Allos
D900
D9
20
Pelat
5
ne
Allos
éo
DRÔME
Bl
AL PES -
Sisteron A L P E S - D E - Colmars MARI TI M E S
H AU T E - P ROV E N C E
A5 1
Noyers-sur- Beauvezer
8
Jabron
D90
Château-
Ve r d o n
Montagne 1 Arnoux
D95
A51
de Lure Digne-les-Bains
2
D90
18 km (11 miles)
r
Les Mées
Va
N85 St-André- Annot

Lurs les-Alpes
nce
Forcalquier
D ura
02
D90
N2 Entrevaux
A ss e
D4
As
0
10
085
Reillanne
se
D4
Moustiers- Castellane
Manosque Allemagne-en- Sainte-Marie
Provence AL PES -
1
Rougon MARI TI M E S
La Tour D1
Lac de Séranon
96
d'Aigues La-Palud-sur-Verdon
D40
Ste-Croix D60
Gréoux- 85
les-Bains Parc Naturel
A51 Quinson Régional du
D55
Verdon Top 10 Sights

4
D3 0
Meyrargues see pp119–21
D5
Tourtour
57
Tavernes Places to Eat

VAR
Barjols see p123
D562
Lorgues
0 km 20
A8 Towns and Villages
D5
see p122
54
St-Maximin- A rg
0 miles 20 la-Ste-Baume en
s
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence ❮❮ 119
as the 9th century AD,

when it was ruled by
the bishops of Sisteron
and the princes of Lurs.
Deserted in the 19th cen-
tury, it has now become
an artists’ colony. There
are stupendous views
from the Promenade des
Evêques (Bishops’ Walk)
leading to the chapel
of Notre-Dame-de-Vie,
especially colourful
in spring when the
Aerial view over Moustiers-Sainte-Marie wildflowers bloom.
1 Moustiers-Sainte-Marie Montagne de Lure

MAP E3 Musée de la Faïence: 4 MAP D2
•
rue du Seigneur de la Clue; open Deep in the heart of the Luberon,

Apr–Oct: 10am–12:30pm, 2–6pm the Lure mountain – an extension of
Wed–Mon (Jul & Aug: to 7pm); Nov– the savage massif of Mont Ventoux
Mar: 10am–12:30pm, 2–5pm Sat, Sun in neighbouring Vaucluse (see p125) –
& school hols; closed Jan; adm is Provence at its wildest, least
Moustiers, loud with the sound of hospitable and, some would say,
a swift-running stream which flows its loveliest. Abandoned hamlets are
through the middle of the village, reminders of Provence in the first
is simply delightful, with its tall old half of the 20th century, when many
houses, plane trees and, for those rural people gave up trying to scrape
who can face the climb, a superb a living from this harsh countryside.
view of the Gorges du Verdon from
the clifftop church of Notre-Dame-
de-Beauvoir (see p48). The village is
5 Ville
MAP F3
Forte, Entrevaux
famed for its faïence ware, and you The citadel of Entrevaux is one of
can see wonderful examples in the the most dramatic of all the region’s
Musée de la Faïence (see p48). many fortresses. Perched on a
pinnacle above this fairytale town,
2 Mont Pelat
MAP F2
it can be reached only by a steep,
zigzag path which passes through
The highest peak in the Provençal more than a dozen arched gateways.
Alps rises to a height of 3,050 m Lying beneath it, the impregnable
(10,020 ft) and dominates a lofty Ville Forte is ringed by towers
landscape of bare rocky summits, and ramparts and reached by a
marked by snow until early summer, drawbridge over the river Var.
pine forests and alpine meadows.
The massif is crossed by breath-
taking passes, including the Cime
de la Bonette, by which the D64 road
traverses the shoulder of Mont Pelat
at a dizzy height of 2,860 m (9,400 ft),
making it the highest pass in Europe.
3 Lurs
MAP D3
Founded before the reign of
Charlemagne, during the Dark Ages,
the town of Lurs was fortified as early A tower in the Ville Forte, Entrevaux
Citadelle de Sisteron, over the Durance
6 Citadelle de Sisteron
MAP E2 1 allée de Verdun
• NAPOLEON AT SISTERON
• Opening times vary, check website On 1 March 1815 Napoleon Bonaparte
• Adm • www.citadelledesisteron.fr escaped from exile on Elba and landed
Squatting on a steep-sided crag, at Golfe Juan. Had the citadel at
high above the narrow valley of Sisteron been garrisoned by Royalist
troops, his attempt to regain his
the River Durance, the formidable
Imperial throne might have been
defences of the Citadelle guard one foiled, but he entered the town
of the strategic gateways to Provence unopposed on 5 March to begin
(see p48). Built in the 13th century, a triumphal progress to Paris, only
the bastions and ramparts, crowned to meet his final defeat at Waterloo.
by towers and a chapel, are a great
piece of military engineering. In the
summer, they become the venue for with the fairytale medieval castles
the Nuits de la Citadelle, a festival of found elsewhere in Provence. It was
music, theatre and dance. built to withstand cannon fire, not just
arrows and siege towers. The work
7 Fort de Savoie,
Colmars-les-Alpes
of master military engineer Vauban,
it is a testimony to his skill. The Fort
MAP F2 • 04 92 83 41 92 • Open Jun de France, the second of this former
& Sep: 10am–noon Wed, Sat & Sun, frontier garrison’s strongholds, has
2–5:30pm Tue, Fri; Jul–Aug: 10am– fared less well and lies in ruins.
noon & 2–6pm daily; other times by
appt only • Adm
Perched atop medieval walls, this
8 Forcalquier
MAP D3 Couvent des
•
17th-century fortress has a grim, Cordeliers: bd des Martyrs; open

businesslike look when compared 10am–1pm & 3–6:30pm daily;
adm
Fort de Savoie, Colmars-les-Alpes This beguiling old town was once
the seat of powerful local lords
and the capital of the region. One
gate of the old walled town, the
Porte des Cordeliers, still survives,
along with the restored cloisters
and stark library of the 13th-century
Couvent des Cordeliers, with its
tombs of the town’s medieval
seigneurs. The convent is home
to the Artemisia Museum, which
celebrates the region’s aromatic
and medicinal plants.
9 Parc Naturel
Régional du Verdon
A MORNING DRIVE THROUGH
THE CANYON
MAP E3, F3 Lac de
Castillon
Along the river Verdon, this regional
D6
Moustiers-
08
park is a huge patchwork of
5
Ste-Marie Castellane
Auberge du
landscapes, ranging from the neatly
D9 2
52 Point Sublime D95
cultivated lavender fields of the La Palud

sur Verdon
Ve rdo n
Lac de
sunlit Valensole plateau to the Ste-Croix
forested hills and pastures of the D9
52 route des Crêtes
G
Artuby, the awesome chasms of
o
g
n
r
e
the Gorges du Verdon (see pp14–15)
o
s rd
du Ve
and the beginnings of the Alps.
There are brilliant blue lakes Start after breakfast from the
created where the Verdon has been unassuming little market town
dammed. This is a paradise for of Castellane (see p122), gateway
hikers, with a network of 700 km to the canyons, and drive west on
(450 miles) of paths, bridleways D952. The landscape becomes
and ancient mule highways. progressively more awe-inspiring
as you enter the gorges and wind
your way through towering walls
of rock to Point Sublime (see p14).
This is one of the most impressive
viewpoints on the tour; savour it
while enjoying a coffee or a cold
drink at the pleasant Auberge
du Point Sublime (see p123).
From here, drive for about
15 minutes and turn left on to
the vertiginous route des Crêtes,
which winds past a series of
ever higher viewpoints. Don’t
rush this part of the drive, but
stop at each viewpoint for five or
ten minutes, as the views vary all
the time and each one is special.
Finally, the road swings around
the shoulder of the massif, and
far below you is the Verdon and
Lavender fields of the Valensole plateau the plateau country around the
little village of La Palud-sur-
Verdon (see p122). It will take
0 Musée de Préhistoire
des Gorges du Verdon
you another 30 minutes to
get there, so relax when you
MAP E3 • Rte de Montmeyan, 04500 do with another coffee at one
Quinson • 04 92 74 09 59 for cave of the village cafés.
tours • Museum: open Feb–Mar &
When you are ready to set off
Oct–mid-Dec: 10am–6pm Wed– again from La Palud, you’ll find it
Mon (to 7pm Apr–Jun, Sep); Jul, a less daunting drive until the
Aug: 10am–8pm daily; closed gorgeous turquoise waters of the
mid-Dec–Jan; adm Lac de Ste-Croix (see p15) come
This museum, in a building designed into sight. The road runs high
by British architect Norman Foster, above the lake, bringing you to
the delightfully pretty village of
traces the geological, cultural and Moustiers-Ste-Marie (see p119).
environmental evolution of human Reward yourself with lunch here,
life in the Verdon and throughout since the village happens to have
Europe, with a fascinating series of two of the region’s best restau-
displays and interactive exhibits. rants, La Treille Muscate and
Guided tours visit caves where relics Ferme Ste-Cécile (see p123).
of early humans have been found.
See map on p118
Towns and Villages
The beautiful mountain town of Seyne-les-Alpes
1 Seyne-les-Alpes
MAP E2 6 Castellane
MAP F3
Military and religious buildings Castellane is a lively market town
are scattered through this quiet surrounded by steep mountains (see
mountain town: a 15th-century gate, p15). The Verdon flows through it, and
a medieval church and a ruined it is a centre for adventure sports.
citadel are the main points of interest.
2 Les Mées 7 Allemagne-en-Provence

MAP E3
MAP E3 Allemagne-en-Provence lies
The little village of Les Mées is known between the rugged canyon country
for the strange rock formations called of the Verdon and the lavender fields
the Pénitents des Mées (see p47). Leg- of the Valensole plateau. It is domi-
end says these pinnacles were monks nated by the splendidly palatial
who broke their vows of chastity and 12th-century Château d’Allemagne.
were turned to stone by St Donat.
3 Simiane-la-Rotonde 8 St-André-les-Alpes
MAP F3
MAP D3 This little village bustles in summer.
The enigmatic Rotonde, a Roman Built where the Verdon and Issole
relic, whose purpose is still a puzzle, rivers flow into the man-made
crowns the village to which it lends Lac de Castillon, it is a popular
its name, a picturesque cluster of watersports centre, with dinghies,
old houses and churches, as well windsurfers and canoes for hire.
as a ramshackle medieval fort.
4 Annot 9 Beauvezer
MAP F2
MAP F3 Beauvezer, in the dramatic Vallée du
Annot stands in unspoilt countryside Haut Verdon, stands 1,179 m (3,600 ft)
in the Vaïre valley. Many houses above sea level. It enjoys a pristine
are built into the giant sandstone natural setting, near two major ski
glacial boulders, known as the grès resorts (Le Seignus and La Foux).
d’Annot – some have 17th- and 18th-
century carved façades.
0 Barcelonnette
MAP F2
5 La Palud-sur-Verdon
MAP E3
Provence’s northernmost town is
in the rugged Ubaye valley. As a
La Palud stands on the north side of result of 19th-century immigration,
the Gorges du Verdon (see pp14–15), its architecture and festivals have
making it a very popular base for a Mexican flavour. Rooftops may
exploring the region. see a dusting of snow as late as June.
Places to Eat
1 Le Grand Paris, Digne
MAP E2 Hôtel du Grand
•
PRICE CATEGORIES
Paris, 19 bd Thiers 04 92 31 11 15
•
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
• Closed L Tue–Wed, Dec–Mar • €€€ taxes and extra charges.
This restaurant at Digne’s best hotel € under €40 €€ €40–€60 €€€ over €60
serves classic dishes with a twist.
2 L’Auberge
Niozelles
du Bois,
6 Le Jardin de Célina,
Valensole
MAP D3 • 191 rte de Niozelles • 04 MAP E3 • Ancien chemin
92 76 61 56 • Closed Oct–Mar • €€ d’Allemagne • 06 71 76 54 01
• Closed Wed, Mon–Thu L • €€
This unpretentious inn in the
village of Niozelles serves delicious In the serene setting of the Parc
Mediterranean dishes. Tables on Naturel Régional du Verdon, this
the terrace are set around a small restaurant offers modern dishes
fountain and shaded by pine trees. featuring Valensole produce such
as truffles and almonds.
3 Sens et Saveurs,
Manosque
7 La Caverne, Gréoux-
MAP D3 • 43 bd des Tilleuls • 04 92 les-Bains
75 00 00 • Closed Mon, Thu & Sun D MAP E3 • 15 rue Grande • 04 92 78
• €€€ 19 54 • Closed Mon, Tue • €€
Superb, creative cuisine is presented La Caverne may be small, but it is one
in the elegantly decorated vaulted of the best places in town for superb
hall of a former monastery. seafood and succulent Sisteron lamb.
8 Auberge du Point
Sublime, Rougon
MAP E3 • Point Sublime • 04 92 83
60 35 • Closed mid-Oct–Apr • €
The location alone would make this
inn special, with a terrace gazing out
at the peaks of the Canyon du Verdon,
but the food is also sublime, using
local produce in traditional dishes.
Elegant interior at Sens et Saveurs

9 L’Olivier,
les-Bains
Dignes-
4 La Treille Muscate,
Moustiers-Ste-Marie
MAP E2 • 1 rue des Monges • 04 92
31 47 41 • Closed Mon, Tue, Wed L,
MAP E3 • Pl de l’Église • 04 92 74 64 Sat L, Sun D • €
31 • Closed Wed Dec–Jan • €€ This lovely little restaurant with a
Dine on classic dishes in a quaint terrace offers great value for
restaurant by a mountain stream. money. Traditional French cooking
with a touch of originality.
5 Ferme Ste-Cécile,
Moustiers-Ste-Marie
0 Le Tivoli, Sisteron
MAP E3 • Rte des Gorges du Verdon MAP E2 21 pl Réné Cassin
•
• 04 92 74 64 18 • €€ • 04 92 62 26 68 • Closed Wed,
Catherine and Patrick Crespin serve Thu L • €€
superb contemporary food in an The top-notch meat and fish dishes
18th-century farmhouse just outside served at this small restaurant have
the centre. made it a must-go-place in town.
See map on p118
Vaucluse
At the northern gates of Provence, the Vaucluse exudes a
cultured air. Its rich past – Roman heritage in Orange, papal legacy
in Avignon – is reflected in summer festivals in both towns, while
the perched villages of the Luberon seem purpose-built for holiday
homes. But the villages
are not perched on
a whim and Avignon’s
ramparts were not for
show – defence was
the motive for both.
In the mountains and
remote parts of the
Luberon, you’re in
Provence at its
most elemental.
Lavender fields of the Abbaye
Notre-Dame de Sénanque
VAUCLUSE
Vaucluse 0 km 10
Vaucluse 0 km 10
6
0 miles 10
D97
e s D976
Séguret Vaison-la- 0 miles 10

Serignan- Vaison-la-
SéguretRomaine
Serignan-
du-Comtat Romaine D RDÔRMÔEM E
es
du-Comtat
gu
gu
Ai
Ai
Malaucène Brantes
Gigondas Les Dentelles Malaucène Brantes
Les Dentelles
A7
Gigondas de Montmirail Mont

A7
Orange de Montmirail Mont

Orange Ventoux
Ventoux
Le Barroux
Le Barroux 4
Vacqueyras D97 4
Vacqueyras Bédoin D97
Bédoin
D938
D938
D1 Sault
A9
D1
D7
Sault
A9
D95 Mormoiron Villes-sur-

D7
Châteauneuf- 0 D95 Mormoiron Villes-sur-

O u vè z
Châteauneuf- 0
O u vè z
du-Pape Auzon
42
du-Pape Auzon
42
D9
D9
Carpentras D9
Carpentras 42 D942
Gorges de de
Gorges
A9 St Didier
A9 St Didier la Nesque
la Nesque
A7
Pernes-les-
A7
Pernes-les-
Fontaines
Fontaines V AVUACULCULSUES E
D943
Villeneuve-lès-
D943
Villeneuve-lès-
Avignon Velleron Le Beaucet
Avignon Velleron Le Beaucet
Abbaye
Abbaye
D93
see Avignon Fontaine-de-

Fontaine-de- Notre-Dame
D93
see Avignon Notre-Dame St-Saturnin-

8
map, right Vaucluse de Sénanque St-Saturnin-

8
map, right Vaucluse de Sénanque lès-Apt

lès-Apt
L'Isle-sur-
L'Isle-sur-
la-Sorgue Roussillon
Top 10 Sights la-Sorgue Gordes
Gordes
Roussillon
see pp125–7 00
Goult D9 D900
D90 0 Goult Apt
Places to Eat D90 0 Apt
see p131 Ménerbes
Ménerbes
Cavaillon
Shops in Vaucluse 9 Cavaillon
D9 Oppède-
9 ParcParc
National
National
see p130 D9 Oppède- Bonnieux
le-Vieux
le-Vieux Bonnieux Régional
Régional
Orgon du Luberon
du Luberon
Avignon Sights Orgon
see p128 D 97 3 Lourmarin
D 97 3 Lourmarin
Ansouis
A7
Vaucluse Villages Ansouis

A7
Sénas D u ra n c Cadenet
see p129 Sénas D7 u e
D ra n c Cadenet
D7 e
Vaucluse ❮❮ 125
1 Vaison-la-Romaine
One of the finest Roman towns
(see pp28–9) in Provence.
2 Abbaye Notre-Dame
de Sénanque
When the lavender flowers
in summer, this medieval abbey
(see pp30–31) surrounded by purple
fields is a spectacular sight.
The peak of Mont Ventoux
Mont Ventoux
3 MAP C2 by strong winds all year round. The
The bald-headed “Giant of Provence” lower slopes are dense with trees,
is the Vaucluse’s greatest landmark; 1,000 plant varieties and wildlife.
one that has inspired poets, mystics
and botanists for centuries. Rising
1,900 m (6,300 ft), it commands the
4 Théâtre Antique d’Orange
MAP B2 Rue Madeline Roch
•
surrounding landscape, affording • Open daily; Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm

astonishing views to the sea, the (to 7pm Jun–Aug); Oct–Mar: 9:30am–
Alps and the Rhône. Snowcapped 4:30pm (to 5:30pm Mar, Oct) • Adm
in winter, the summit is revealed as The finest Roman theatre (see p38)
arid chalk in summer and buffeted in Europe has its original stage wall,
ensuring perfect acoustics.
Avignon
Avignon
5 Parc Naturel Régional
du Luberon
ne e
R h ôR h ô n MAP C3 • Maison du Parc, 60 pl Jean-
Jaurès, Apt • Open 8:30am–noon,
L IGNE NE
LA
LA
LIG 1:30–6pm Mon–Fri (also Sat am,
DE
DE Easter–Sep)
D
VA R
BO
U L E L E VA R
U
D
Rocher
The Luberon has an untamed beauty.
BO Rocher Covering 1,500 sq km (600 sq miles),
E
des Doms
ON
des Doms
ON
PLACE G.
RH
PLACE G.
POMPIDOU
it takes in the Petit Luberon of
RH
POMPIDOU PLACEPLACE
U
DU
crags, gorges and perched villages
E LA
D
IE
AS U
PALAIS DU
BA L ANRCE
ER
R UE DE LA
IM D
IE
RIE
BA L AN CE
PALAIS
S TDE
D
A SS T
RIE
to the west and the more rounded

AR
EL D
I MF U
STE
R UE
R U VA R
FU
STE
EV
ELE
R UA N D
NA
Grand Luberon to the east. The

UL
DE
E
NA
UL
R. DE LA
AN
BA
BO
GR
R. M O N NR .I ED E L A
BA
BO
SA R MAO
GR
I N T. S A NNAIE
park’s headquarters (see p50)
R.
- E TI N
R.
I ETN- EN E PLACE
TI E NCAMPANA
NE PLACE
have information on walks, the
E
CAMPANA
RU
E
R U E D E S G R OTT E S
RU
ecology and the area’s traditions.

ET
R U E D E S G R OTT E S
ET
VE RN
VE RN
PLACE DE
PLACE DE
L’HORLOGE PLACE
JO SE PH
L’HORLOGE PLACE
CHATAIGNES
ARNO
T Roussillon cliffs in the Luberon
JO SE PH
CHATAIGNES
R U E C E C A R N OT
RUE ST- A G S RU
RUE ST-R I C OL R. DES MARC HANDHAND S PLACE
A G R I C OL R. DES MARC
RUE
PIE PLACE
RUE
RU E BA
PLACE DU PIE
RURE UBA
PLACE DU
CHANGE
SAR
R U CHANGE
E B RU
S A R E L AI E
R U AIL
ONE
E DNC
NC AS SE
N EBTO N
AI
RUE DE L A REPUB L IQU E
E D LER
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L L AS
RUE DE L A REPUB L IQU E
IEE T E
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E L IE
R IE
R U E BO U Q U E R I E
A
R U E BO U Q U E R I E
PLACE
PLACE
RUE
SAINT-DIDIER
RUE
SAINT-DIDIER
LA BO UR
LA BO UR
JOS
JOS
250 metres
EP H
RU E
250 metres
EP H
(273 yards)
RU E
EU R
VE (273 yards)
EU R
RN VE
E T RN
T E RUE DES L I C E S
CO UR S J EA N JAU RES
RU E VI R . H E N R I FA B R E RUE DES L I C E S
CO UR S J EA N JAU RES
RUO LE R . H E N R I FA B R E
TTOE
E VI LE TT E
B O UL E VARD RA SPA IL 0 metres 250
B O UL E VARD RA SPA IL 0 metres 250
0 yards 250
0 yards 250
6 Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
MAP C3 Pétrarch Library
•
Museum: Rive gauche de la Sorgue;

open Apr–Sep: Thu–Mon; adm
• Musée d’Histoire Jean Garcin:
1939–45: Chemin de la Fontaine;

open Apr–Sep: Thu–Mon; adm
• Le Monde Souterrain: Chemin
de la Fontaine; open mid-Feb–

mid-Nov: daily; adm
From the base of grandiose, 230-m-
(750-ft-) high cliffs, Europe’s most
powerful spring pumps out the water
which creates the River Sorgue, and
attracts millions of visitors each year,
as it once attracted the 14th-century
Italian poet Petrarch (see p49). Down- The imposing Dentelles de Montmirail
stream, the village celebrates its
most famous inhabitant with a muse-
um in one of the houses he is said to
8 Les Dentelles
de Montmirail
have lived in. It also has two other MAP C2
excellent museums; one on World Probably the prettiest mountain
War II and the other on speleology. range in Provence, the Dentelles
are formed by three ridges of chalk
topped by ragged crests. The French
think of these as lacework (dentelles),
but they can look more like fangs
in rough weather. Within the range,
tiny villages (Suzette, La Roque Alric)
cling to the crags as if by magic and
climbers are attracted to the sheer
rock faces. The walking, too, is
spectacularly good, notably up to
St Amand, at 730 m (2,400 ft), the
highest point. Round the western
edge cluster the picturesque wine
villages of Beaumes-de-Venise,
The Sorgue at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Séguret.
There are marked wine routes
7 Gorges
MAP C3
de la Nesque through this picturesque vineyard
region (see pp64–5), and plenty
The Gorges de la Nesque run for of opportunities for tastings en
20 km (12 miles) between the route, but be sure to decide on a
villages of Villes-sur-Auzon and designated driver before you set off.
Monieux. The rocky drop descends
more than 300 m (1,000 ft), its sides
THE VAUDOIS MASSACRE
bare or covered in scrub. Cut into the
cliff, the winding road is definitely not The bloodiest tale in Provençal history
for vertigo sufferers. The Castelleras took place in Vaucluse in 1545, when
Catholic Royal authorities determined
viewpoint looks onto the Rocher du
to exterminate early Protestant settlers,
Cire (Wax Rock – so-called because the Vaudois. Within weeks, as many as
of a local legend claiming that it is 3,000 were dead: women and children
home to millions of bees). This is were burned alive and villages were
also the start of a testing walk to the destroyed. The memories, and ruins,
bottom of the gorges, where Chapelle still haunt the remoter mountainsides.
St-Michel is dug into the rock.
Vaucluse ❮❮ 127
9 Synagogue, Carpentras
MAP C3 Pl Maurice Charretier
•
A DAY’S DRIVE IN THE
VAUCLUSE MOUNTAINS
• Open Mon–Fri for pre-booked Séguret
Dentelles de Mont
guided tours only; call 04 90 63 39 Montmirail Ventoux
Malaucène
97 to book • Closed during religious Col des
Tempêtes
services • Adm D 97 4
D7
D90
Expelled from France in the 14th
D16
4
Les Lavandes,
century, the Jews sought refuge in Mazan
Monieux
D7
parts of Provence then belonging to
D1
42
Sault
the pope. This included Carpentras,
D9
D 94 2
Carpentras
whose synagogue, founded in Villes-sur-
Auzon
Gorges de
la Nesque
1367, is the oldest still functioning
on French soil. Rebuilt in the MORNING
18th century, the synagogue looks
like neighbouring buildings from the Start in Carpentras by visiting
outside: laws forbade decoration. the Synagogue. Take the
D942 to Mazan and on, through
Within, a monumental staircase leads woodland, to Villes-sur-Auzon,
to the sumptuous two-storey area of a charming Provençal village.
worship (men upstairs, women below), Continue on the D942 to the
and the setting for the tabernacle, Gorges de la Nesque to experi-
teba, candelabra and chandeliers. ence 20 km (12 miles) of awe-
inspiring scenery, with sheer
drops of 300 m (1,000 ft). Pause
at the Belvédère de Castelleras
for heart-stopping views.
Continue to Monieux, stopping at
Les Lavandes restaurant (04 90
64 05 08; €) in the village centre if
it is time for lunch and you fancy
elegant, classic cooking. Continue
to Sault (see p46) where, in July
and August, the valley is a riot
of purple lavender, yellow broom
and the white of the rocks – an
unmissable sight.
The vaults of Cathédrale Ste-Anne
AFTERNOON
Cathédrale Ste-Anne,
0 Apt
Take the D164 towards Mont
Ventoux (see p125), another
MAP C3 • Pl de la Cathédrale challenging drive, and stop for a
• Open Nov–Apr: 10am–noon & break at the Col des Tempêtes.
2–5pm Tue–Sat; May–Oct: 9am– Take in the amazing views across
1pm & 3–6pm Tue–Sat (except during Toulourenc Valley, then journey
the summit for the most stunning
religious ceremonies)
panorama in Provence.
The relics of St Anne (mother of the
Virgin),discovered on this site in 776, Descend the mountain to
remain here, having survived the Malaucène, taking the tiny D90
into the Dentelles de Montmirail.
destruction of the church and its Pause in any of the cafés in
rebuilding from the 11th century on. Beaumes-de-Venise for a glass
The two crypts have also survived, of the local sweet white wine.
containing sarcophagi from early Continue to delightful Séguret
Christian times. The cathedral has (see p49), then return by the D7 to
18th-century paintings and a 15th- Carpentras, rewarding yourself
century stained-glass window of with dinner at Le Mesclun (rue
des Poternes; 04 90 46 93 43; €€),
the Tree of Jesse. The St Anne the best restaurant in town.
Chapel contains what is rumoured
to be the saint’s veil.
Avignon Sights
1 Cathédrale Notre-
Dame-des-Doms 6 Pont St-Bénézet
MAP B3 Bd de la Ligne •
MAP B3 • Pl du Palais • Open • Open daily; Mar: 9am–6:30pm;

8am–6pm daily (7am–7pm summer) Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: 9am–7pm
The medieval popes’ cathedral (to 8pm Jul, to 8:30pm Aug); Nov–
has 17th-century alterations but Feb: 9:30am–5:45pm • Adm
a 13th-century altar. This 12th-century bridge (see p46)
once had 22 arches, now it has four.
2 Place
MAP B3
de l’Horloge
7 Rue des Teinturiers
Built on the old forum, the city’s MAP B3
nerve centre is fringed with This tiny street – formerly home
restaurants, bars and the to dye-workers – now buzzes with
19th-century town hall. arty cafés and quirky boutiques.
3 Chartreuse
Bénédiction
du Val-de-
8 Musée du Petit Palais
MAP B3 Pl du Palais
•
MAP B3 • 58 rue de la République, • Open 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Wed–

Villeneuve-lez-Avignon • Open Apr– Mon • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec
Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: • Adm
10am–5pm daily • Closed 1 Jan, This superb collection of medieval

1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec, 2 weeks and Renaissance art includes an
Jan • Adm early painting by Botticelli.
An impressive monastery and chapel
with elegant gardens.
9 Collection Lambert
MAP B3 Musée d’Art
•
Musée Angladon-
4 Collection Jacques Doucet
Contemporain, 5 rue Violette
• Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun
MAP B3 • 5 rue Laboureur • Open (to 7pm daily Jul–Aug) • Adm

Apr–Oct: 1–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: This is Avignon’s premier showcase
1–6pm Tue–Sat • Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec for contemporary art.
• Adm
This private collection includes

fabulous works by Cézanne, Manet,
0 Musée Calvet
MAP B3 65 rue Joseph
•
Picasso and Van Gogh. Vernet • Open 10am–1pm, 2–6pm

Wed–Mon • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25
5 Palais des Papes
The medieval papal palace
Dec • www.musee-calvet.org • Adm
The Calvet is a fine museum, with
(see pp12–13) dominates the town. collections of paintings, sculptures
and artifacts from ancient Greece
Panorama of the Palais des Papes to the 20th century.
Vaucluse ❮❮ 129
Vaucluse Villages
1 Séguret
MAP C2 7 Ansouis
MAP C3 Château: call 04 90 •
This remarkably pretty medieval 77 23 36 for information on tours;

settlement hugs the hillside like a adm
tight belt (see p49). Gorgeous views. This village, with its labyrinthe of
narrow streets, is made truly
2 Gordes
MAP C3 www.gordes-
•
remarkable by its château, built
in the 1100s and lived in by the
village.com same family until the early 2000s.
Fashionable folk flock here, and The vaulted rooms, salons, armoury
no wonder. The village is perched and kitchens are extraordinary,
above the Coulon Valley, and its little as are the stately gardens.
houses appear piled on top of one
another. In the centre, the château
oversees the whole with a stately
Renaissance dignity.
3 Oppède-le-Vieux
MAP C3
Flourishing in Renaissance times,
Oppède was deserted by 1900 –
no one wanted to live on a barely
accessible rock. Now its houses are
being restored by creative types, such
as artists and writers, but the spot
remains profoundly atmospheric,
with medieval castle ruins.
4 Brantes
MAP C2
The hilltop village of Ansouis
Overhanging the gorges 550 m

(1,800 ft) below, Brantes stares
8 Roussillon
MAP C3
across the Toulourenc Valley to Mont Ochre mining and erosion have
Ventoux. Its tiny paved streets and fashioned the multicoloured earth
vaulted passages boast a chapel into cliffs (see p49) and fantastic
but no shops. It is particularly shapes, creating a bewitching setting
impressive in March, when the for a romantic perched village.
almond trees are in bloom.
Malaucène
5 MAP C2 9 Ménerbes
MAP C3
Ménerbes was superbly sited for
This was where Pope Clement V defence. As a Protestant stronghold,
had his summer residence, and it it held out for five years during the
remains a grand place of 17th- and 16th-century Wars of Religion. The
18th-century houses, fountains and position remains dramatic, but peace
avenues shaded by plane trees. now reigns around the citadel and
town houses. The views are terrific.
6 Vacqueyras
MAP B2
0 Le Barroux
One of Provence’s most prestigious MAP C2
wine villages. Admire the 11th-century This eagle’s nest of a village has
church with its elegant bell tower, narrow streets leading steeply up
then go to taste the wine. to the splendid château at the top.
Shops in Vaucluse
1 L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
MAP C3 5 Olivades, Avignon
MAP B3 56 rue Joseph •
Not one shop but more than 200 make Vernet

this little town France’s most This company has been producing
important antiques and second- and printing Provençal fabrics since
hand centre, after Paris. Grouped 1818. It’s now the only such outfit
into seven centres, most are open in the region, with materials, table
Saturday to Monday, with a market on linen and wedding gowns.
Sunday mornings. Antiques fairs are
at Easter and around All Saint’s Day.
6 Edith
Goult
Mézard,
MAP C3 Château de l’Ange
•
The little château near Goult is

a perfect setting for beautifully
embroidered clothes and a great
range of linen for the house.
7 Confiserie Artisanale
Denis Ceccon, Apt
MAP C3 24 quai de la Liberté
•
Apt is the world capital of crystallized

fruit, and Denis Ceccon is one of the
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market few remaining artisans to work by
traditional methods – try the apricots.
2 Farmers’
Velleron
Market,
8 Nougats Silvain,
MAP C3 St-Didier
Provence isn’t short of food markets, MAP C3 4 pl Neuve
•
but this one is special. It’s held in the This is a farming and fruit-growing
evening and stall-holders must sell family known for the delicious
homegrown or raised produce only. nougat. Don’t miss the honey either.
It is held Monday to Saturday from
6pm, April to September, and Tuesday,
Wednesday, Friday and Saturday
9 Château Pesquié,
Mormoiron
from 4:30pm the rest of the year. MAP C2 1365 bis rte de Flassan
•
The château has lovely grounds

3 Les Délices du Luberon,
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
and first-rate Ventoux wines.
MAP C3 1 av du Partage des Eaux

•
An unprepossessing warehouse that

0 Chocolaterie Bernard
Castelain, Châteauneuf-
is full of olives, olive preparations du-Pape
and olive derivatives such as tapenade MAP B3 1745 rte de Sorgues
•
or melet (a blend of fennel, peppers, Another warehouse – this time packed

olives and anchovies). with a dazzling array of chocolate.
Enter only if you have iron self-control.
4 Lou Canesteou, Vaison-
la-Romaine Chocolaterie Bernard Castelain
MAP C2 • 10 rue Raspail
Josiane Déal personally selects
the 160 varieties of artisanal cheese
for her shop, and has been named
a Meilleur Ouvrier (“Master of her
Craft”) for her expertise.
Vaucluse ❮❮ 131
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
5 Les Florets, Gigondas
MAP B2 1243 rte des Florêts
•
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), • 04 90 65 85 01 • Closed Wed,

taxes and extra charges. Jan–mid-Mar • €€
€ under €40 €€ €40–€60 €€€ over €60 The panoramic terrace has superb
views of the Dentelles de Montmirail,
and the regional cuisine is matched
1 La Bastide de
Capelongue, Bonnieux
by an excellent wine list.
MAP C3 • Les Claparèdes, chemin

des Cabanes • 04 90 75 89 78 6 Restaurant
Avignon
Sevin,
• Closed Tue, Wed L mid-Jan–early MAP B3 • 10 rue de Mons • 04
Mar, 2 weeks Dec • €€€ 90 86 16 50 • 04 90 86 16 50 • Closed
Chef Noël Bérard is known for Wed, Thu • €€€
aromatic Provençal cuisine, using his Tasting menus of superb Provençal
own herbs for dishes such as rack fare are matched with excellent
of lamb smoked with wild thyme. wines at this esteemed restaurant.
7 Auberge la
Fenière, Lourmarin
MAP C3 • Rte de Lourmarin • 04 90
68 11 79 • Closed Mon, Tue (Jul &
Aug: open D), mid-Nov–early Feb
• €€
Nadia Sammut, one of France’s rare

female top chefs, brings international
influence to regional cuisine.
Lamb at La Bastide de Capelongue
2 Café Fleurs, L’Isle-sur- 8 Le Prieuré, Villeneuve-

lès-Avignon
la-Sorgue MAP B3 7 pl du Chapitre 04 90
• •
MAP C3 • 9 rue Théodore Aubanel 15 90 15 • Closed Nov–Mar • €€€

• 09 54 12 31 29 • Closed Mon, Tue
The locally sourced menu changes
(excl mid-Jun–Aug), Jan • €€ four times a week, offering gourmet
Delicious Provençal food served cuisine in a heavenly setting.
in a stylish dining room or on a
shady patio.
9 Moulin à Huile,
Le Vaison-la-Romaine
3 Hiély Lucullus, Avignon
MAP B3 5 rue de la Répub-
•
MAP C2 • 1 quai Maréchal Foch
• 04 90 36 04 56 • Closed Tue, Wed
lique • 04 90 86 17 07 • Closed Tue, • €€€
Wed • €€ Superb setting in the medieval part

One of Avignon’s oldest restaurants, of town. The chefs prepare excellent
which adds a wonderful lightness regional dishes for a set menu.
of touch to its classic dishes.
La Fourchette, Avignon
Serge, Carpentras 0 MAP B3 17 rue Racine 04
4 Chez
MAP C3 90 rue Cottier 04
• 90 85 20 93 Closed Sat, Sun, 3 wks
• •
• •
90 63 21 24 €€ • Aug • €€
Chef Serge’s elegant, modern Much favoured by Avignon locals for
bistro is acclaimed for its good-value its country-inn style and treatment of
Provençal dishes. The wine and truffle Provençal classics, like sumptuous
evenings are especially popular. boeuf en daube (see p67).

Streetsmart
Colourful façades of houses in the city of Orange, Vaucluse

Getting Around 134
Practical Information 138
Places to Stay 142
General Index 148
Acknowledgments 157
Phrase Book 159
134 ❯❯ Streetsmart
Getting Around
Arriving by Air Mistral bus takes Regional and
30 minutes and 20 Local Trains
Provence has five minutes, respectively, to
international airports in reach the city centres. Provence is a vast
Avignon, Marseille, Nice, Monaco has no airport geographical region
Nîmes and Toulon- but has a city centre covered by mountains,
Hyères; all are near heliport with a helicopter lakes and rolling fields
their respective cities, shuttle service to Nice of lavender. Fortunately,
with good bus services International Airport, every major town is
to the city centres. taking seven minutes connected by high-speed
Nice Airport is the with Héli Securité. TGV trains, run by the
main gateway for French rail operator
Provence, with the most International SNCF. The line goes from
frequent flights from Train Travel Arles and Nîmes in the
Paris, London, New York west to Nice and Monaco
and other major cities. High-speed TGV trains in the east. Even tiny
Buses run the 7 km connect Provence with villages are linked by
(4.5 miles) to central Nice the UK, Italy, Spain and TER, also operated by
every 15 minutes. A taxi Switzerland. Most TGV SNCF, which serves every
to the city centre costs stations are conveniently station on local and
around €40. Other direct located in city centres suburban routes.
airport buses regularly except for Avignon and It is not essential to
serve Antibes, Cannes Aix-en-Provence whose reserve your journey in
and Monaco. airport-style TGV stations advance on regional and
Marseille Airport is are a short bus ride from local trains, but advance
situated 25 km (16 miles) the town centre. Eurostar purchase is a good idea at
northwest of Marseille services run directly from the height of the tourist
and 28 km (17 miles) London to Avignon and season in summer.
southwest of Aix-en- Marseille, the latter a six- The narrow-gauge Train
Provence. Taxis to both and-a-half-hour service. des Pignes is a popular
destinations cost around Reservations for all TGV journey. This historic route
€55. Buses run to services are essential as runs from Nice’s Gare de
Marseille-St-Charles tickets are booked up Provence to Digne-les-
railway station about quickly. Visit the RENFE- Bains in the Haut-Alpes
every 15 minutes, and SNCF or Oui SNCF through splendid Alpine
numerous other direct websites for tickets, scenery. Several walking
buses serve Aix-en- depending on your route. trails begin at stations en
Provence, St-Tropez and You can buy tickets and route.
other cities and town in passes for multiple The Train des
inland Provence. international journeys via Merveilles is another
Avignon Airport is 10 km Eurail or Interrail; pretty route, particularly
(6 miles) from the city however, you may need to attrictive to hikers. The
centre. A taxi or LER bus pay an additional reser- line runs from Nice deep
takes 40 minutes from vation fee. Check carefully into the Italian Alps
the airport to central before boarding that your through what was Italian
Avignon. Nîmes Airport is pass is valid on the territory until 1947, past
13 km (8 miles) from service you wish to use. the towns of Tende and
Nîmes, and a taxi or Students and those Sospel.
Navette Aéroport coach under 26 and over 60 can There are frequent links
will take you to the city benefit from discounted between many Provençal
in15 minutes. Toulon- rail travel both to and cities and Paris. It is a
Hyères Airport is 24 km within France. For more three-hour journey from
(15 miles) from Toulon information on discounted the French capital to
and 8 km (5 miles) from travel, visit the Eurail or Marseille, Avignon or
Hyères; the Réseau Interrail websites. Aix-en-Provence.
Getting Around ❮❮ 135
Long-Distance is Toulon’s city and DIRECTORY

Bus Travel suburban public bus and
ARRIVING BY AIR
boat bus network.
BlaBlaCar coaches Héli Securité
∑ helisecurite.fr
connect many cities in Tickets
Provence, including Marseille Airport
Marseille and Nîmes, Buying tickets in advance ∑ marseille-aeroport.fr
with Paris, Lyon, is always cheaper than Nice Airport
Montpellier, Toulouse buying from the driver. ∑ nice.aeroport.fr
and Bordeaux. Flixbus Carnets (books of up to
connects cities in ten tickets) and multi-trip INTERNATIONAL
Provence with Paris, passes valid for one or TRAIN TRAVEL
as well as with other more days are available Eurail
∑ eurail.com
French towns and major on all urban transport
European destinations. networks and can be Eurostar
bought at rail and bus ∑ eurostar.com
Public Transport stations, designated Interrail

stores and city tourist ∑ interrail.eu
Each urban area in information offices. OUI-SNCF
Provence has its own Remember to always ∑ oui.sncf
public transport system purchase a ticket as
RENFE-SNCF
extending from the city ticket inspections are ∑ renfe-sncf.com
centre to the outer quite common.
suburbs. Safety and REGIONAL AND
hygiene measures, Local Buses LOCAL TRAINS
timetables, ticket
SNCF
information, transport Beyond major towns, ∑ sncf.com
maps and more can be local bus routes are
obtained from their served by private TER
∑ ter-sncf.com
respective websites. companies under regional
authority governance. Train des Merveilles
∑ tendemerveilles.com
City Transport Timetables are geared
to the needs of local Train des Pignes
The region’s cities have schools and shoppers, ∑ traindespignes.fr
efficient transport and do not always present
LONG-DISTANCE BUS
networks. Orizo is the the best choice for TRAVEL
local transport authority visitors. ZOU! is the
for Avignon and its one-stop shop for local BlaBlaCar
suburbs, including buses across the region. ∑ blablacar.fr/bus
Villeneuvelès-Avignon. Flixbus
Hop-on, hop-off electric Trams ∑ flixbus.fr
shuttle buses (Baladines)
trundle around the Trams can be more CITY TRANSPORT
medieval centre. efficient than buses in CAM
In Marseille, RTM Provence’s cities. ∑ cam.mc
co-ordinates bus, Métro Marseille’s tramway Lignes d’Azur

and tram lines. CAM operates over three lines, ∑ lignesdazur.com
operates buses within and tickets must be Orizo
Monaco and to Nice and purchased in advance. ∑ orizo.fr
Menton, and seven lifts Nice has a three-route Réseau Mistral
and escalators connect its tram system and ∑ reseaumistral.com
waterfront with the upper tickets can be bought
RTM
urban level. Lignes d’Azur from machines at the ∑ rtm.fr
is the public transport tramstop. Tickets for
operator for Nice, Cannes Avignon’s trams can be LOCAL BUSES
and Alpes-Maritimes, bought from machines at ZOU!
including the Nice tram stations or via the ∑ zou.maregionsud.fr
tramway. Réseau Mistral Orizo smartphone app.
Taxis states are valid through- easy as there are many

out the EU. International one-way streets, and
There are taxi ranks at driving licences are not parking is difficult and
rail and bus stations, needed for short-term expensive. In summer,
airports and in most visitors (up to 90 days) traffic on the coast road
main squares in towns from the UK, North between Hyères and
and cities. You can also America, Australia and Nice, and especially the
call or text for taxis. New Zealand. Visitors section between Nice
Cab Express Taxi Moto from other countries and Cannes, is often
are motorbike taxis in should check with their excruciatingly slow.
Nice. A list of key taxi automobile association.
firms is shown in the All the main car hire Rules of the Road
Directory box. companies have offices
in Provençal towns. Always drive on the
Driving to Provence Nice has an all-electric right. Unless otherwise
car share scheme signposted, vehicles
It takes nine to ten hours Mobilize Share. coming from the right
to drive to Avignon from have right of way, and
the Channel ferry ports Driving in Provence cars on a roundabout
via the A26 and A27 usually have right of
autoroutes. Driving from Driving in Provence can way as well.
Bilbao in Spain, which is be a pleasure, but plan At all times, drivers
served by ferries from the your journey carefully to must carry a valid driver’s
UK, takes around eight avoid traffic bottlenecks licence and registration
hours. The drive from on rural and coastal roads and insurance docu-
Paris to Provence is an in summer. ments. In case of a
easy one, except at the For a fast point-to-point breakdown, it is compul-
start or end of French journey, the A8 autoroute sory to carry a red
holiday periods. Allow at cuts across the Camargue warning triangle and a
least six hours for the from Menton to Aix-en- luminous vest. Seat belts
700-km (435-mile) Provence, near which it must be worn, and
journey to Avignon via the meets the A7 Autoroute du it is prohibited to sound
A6 Autoroute du Soleil, as Soleil, so you can drive on your horn in cities except
well as about €60 in tolls. autoroutes all the way in a genuine emergency.
From Paris to Nice allow across Provence from the For motorbikes and
ten hours plus around Italian border to Orange in scooters, the wearing of
€80 in tolls. There are just over three hours. The helmets and protective
rest stops, or aires, every same journey avoiding gloves is compulsory. It
30 km (20 miles) or so. autoroutes takes more is against the law to drive
Most have picnictables than six hours but costs in urban bus lanes.
and public toilets. less, as the A8 is the France strictly enforces
To take your own car most expensive toll its drink-drive limit (p138),
into France, you will need road in France. and random breath
proof of registration, valid Routes départementales testing at mobile check-
insurance documents, a are the narrowest and points is common.
full, valid driving licence slowest roads, but in
and your passport. hinterland regions such Parking
as Alpes-de-Hautes-
Car Rental Provence they may be Park only in areas with a
your only option. Bison large “P” or a Payant sign
To rent a car in France Futé signs indicate routes on the pavement or road,
you must be 21 years or avoiding heavy traffic and and pay at the parking
over and have held a valid can be useful during peak meter with cash or
driver’s licence for at least French holiday periods. contactless debit or credit
a year. You will also need Driving in the historic card. Avignon, Marseille,
to present a credit card. centres of Provençal towns Nice and Toulon have
Driving licences issued by is not recommended. numerous underground
any of the EU member Finding your way isn’t car parks, signposted
Getting Around ❮❮ 137
by a white “P” on a blue l’Estaque are operated by Bicycles may be taken on

background, and RTM (p135). In Monaco, most trains, but the
overground car parks are CAM bus-boats (p135) link service must be booked in
usually located on the Quai Kennedy with the advance on TGV trains. To
edge of historic town cruise ship terminal. take your bike on a local
centres. Some city hotels Corsica Linea sails from train, look for the bicycle
have private parking. Marseille to Corsica, symbol on the timetable.
Sardinia, Algeria and Wearing a helmet is
Boats and Ferries Tunisia. Corsica Ferries not compulsory but is
sail from Nice and Toulon strongly advised.
Boats are a great way to to Corsica and Sardinia
take a day trip along the and from Toulon to Walking
coast. Most useful are the Majorca and Sicily.
Trans Côte d’Azur ferries Provence is superb
from Cannes to the Îles Cycling walking country, offering
de Lérins, and Bateaux guided or marked walks
Verts from Ste-Maxime to Most towns (except Nice around historic cities and
St-Tropez. Boat tours are and Monaco) have few along the coast.
also run around Avignon hills and bike rentals are Sentiers balisés are
and into the Camargue. widely available. In the hot the local trails, while
The free navette fluviale summer months, or for sentiers de grande
(river shuttle), also known less energetic riders, randonnée are long-
as the bac à traille, electric-boosted e-bikes distance hiking tracks,
crosses the Rhône take less effort. and both are part of a vast
between the Quai de la Vélopop’ in Avignon, network that covers all of
Ligne in central Avignon Le Vélo in Marseille and France. The main long-
and Île de la Barthelasse. Vélobleu in Nice are bike- distance trails are the
Réseau Mistral (p135) sharing schemes. Register GR5, GR51, GR6 and
runs bateau-bus (water online first, and then grab GR9. Maps and guides
taxi) services from Toulon a bike from one of the are widely available from
to La Seyne-sur-Mer and multiple docking stations tourist offices.
Les Sablettes. Bateliers around each city. Aix-en- The most rewarding
de la Côte d’Azur sail Provence doesn’t have a way to take in any city and
from Toulon to the Îles bike-sharing scheme, but absorb its atmosphere is
d’Hyères. Ferries from Aixprit Vélo is a handy on foot. In many cities,
Marseille’s Vieux Port bike shop that also rents sights are only a short
to Pointe-Rouge and out bikes in the city. distance apart.
DIRECTORY
TAXIS CAR RENTAL Corsica Ferries

∑ corsica-ferries.fr
Cab Express Taxi-Moto Mobilize Share
∑ cab-express.com ∑ fr.share.mobilize.com Corsica Linea
∑ corsicalinea.com
Provence Cab
(Avignon) DRIVING IN Trans Côte d’Azur
∑ provencecab-paca.fr PROVENCE ∑ trans-cote-azur.com
Taxi Cannes Bison Futé

∑ taxi-cannes.net ∑ bison-fute.gouv.fr
CYCLING
Taxi Monaco Aixprit Vélo’
∑ taximonaco.com BOATS AND FERRIES ∑ aixpritvelo.com
Taxi Radio Marseille Bateau Verts Le Vélo

∑ taximarseille.com ∑ bateauxverts.com ∑ levelo-mpm.fr
Taxi Riviera Nice Bateliers de la Côte Vélobleu

∑ taxis-nice.fr ∑ velobleu.org
d’Azur
Taxi Toulon ∑ bateliersdelacote Vélopop’
∑ taxi-toulon.com dazur.com ∑ velopop.fr
Practical Information
Passports and Visas goods and currency at your hotel. If you need
taken in or out of France an ambulance, dial 112.
For entry requirements, on the Douanes et Droits A green cross indicates
including visas, consult Indirects website. For EU a pharmacy. Pharmacists
your nearest French citizens there is no limit are an excellent source
embassy or check the on most goods, as long as of advice – they can
France-Visas website. the items are for your diagnose many health
Visitors from outside the personal use. problems and suggest
European Economic Area appropriate treatment.
(EEA), European Union Insurance Phone 3237 to find the
(EU) and Switzerland nearest pharmacy. They
need a valid passport We recommend that you are usually open from
to enter France. EEA, EU take out a comprehensive 9am to 8pm Monday to
and Swiss nationals can insurance policy covering Saturday. When closed,
use their national identity theft, loss of belongings, there will be a sign in the
cards instead. Citizens medical care, cancellations window giving the location
of the UK, Canada, the and delays, and read the of the nearest pharmacie
US, Australia and New small print carefully. de nuit, which will be
Zealand can visit France EU and UK citizens are open. In all towns one
for up to three months eligible for free emergency pharmacy will open at
without a visa as long as medical care provided night and weekends.
their passport is valid for they have a valid Euro- Some pharmacies are
six months beyond the pean Health Insurance open 24/7.
date of entry. For longer Card (EHIC) or a UK No inoculations are
stays, a visa is required Global Health Insurance needed for France. For
and must be obtained in Card (GHIC). Visitors from information regarding
advance from the French outside the EU must COVID-19 vaccination
Embassy in your home arrange their own private requirements, consult
country. Most other non- medical insurance. government advice.
EU nationals need a visa. Tap water in France is
Schengen visas are valid Health safe to drink, unless
for France. otherwise stated.
France has a world- Provence has its share
Government Advice class healthcare system. of pests, from mosquitoes
Emergency medical care to jellyfish, and beware
Now more than ever, it is free for all UK and EU of spiky sea urchins when
is important to consult nationals. If you have an walking on rocky shores.
both your and the French EHIC or GHIC, be sure to
government’s advice present this as soon as Smoking, Alcohol
before travelling. The UK possible. You may have and Drugs
Foreign and Common- to pay for treatment
wealth Office, the US and reclaim the money Smoking is prohibited
Department of State, the later. For other visitors, in all public places, but
Australian Department payment of medical is allowed on open-air
of Foreign Affairs and expenses is the patient’s restaurant, café and bar
Trade and Gouvernement responsibility. It is terraces. The possession
France offer all the therefore important to of illegal drugs is pro-
latest information on arrange comprehensive hibited and could result
security, health and medical insurance in a prison sentence.
local regulations. before travelling. Unless stated otherwise,
SOS Médecins is a alcohol consumption on
Customs Information 24-hour medical service, the streets is permitted.
which provides general France has a strict limit of
You can find information medical, emergency 0.05 per cent BAC (blood
on the laws relating to and out-of-hours visits alcohol content) for drivers.
Practical Information ❮❮ 139
ID insurance. Contact your Marseille lists bars, res-

embassy or consulate if taurants, clubs and other
There is no requirement your passport is stolen, attractions in Marseille
for visitors to carry ID, but or in the event of a serious and Aix-en-Provence.
in the event of a routine crime or accident.
check you may be asked For emergency police, Travellers
to show your passport. If ambulance or fire with Specific
you don’t have it with you, services dial 112 – the Requirements
the police may escort you operator will ask which
to wherever your passport service you require. For Most museums are
is being kept. ambulance emergencies wheelchair-accessible
you can also dial 15; for and offer audio tours and
Personal Security the fire brigade the direct induction loops. Bespoke
number is 18; and for the Holidays specializes in
Provence is generally a police the number is 17. accommodation for
safe region, though petty Like the rest of France, wheelchair users and
crime can take place. Provence is diverse and people with learning
Beware of pickpockets multicultural. As a rule, disabilities and their
and bag-snatchers on Provençals are accepting carers. Fully supported
public transport, espe- of all people regardless activity holidays are
cially during rush hour of their race, gender or offered by Go Beyond.
and in major tourist areas. sexuality although rural To find out about
Use your commonsense Provence tends to be more accessible public trans-
and be alert to your conservative than the big port and attractions in
surroundings, and you cities. Same-sex marriage Nice, download the handy
should have a trouble-free was legalized in 2013 and Nice Accessible PDF from
trip. If you have anything France recognized the the Office de Tourisme
stolen, report the crime as right to legally change Nice website. National
soon as possible to the your gender in 2016. Nice, train operator SNCF
nearest police station, and Cannes, Aix-en-Provence offers Accès Plus, which
bring ID with you. Get a and especially Marseille accompanies travellers
copy of the crime report have thriving LGBTQ+ with specific needs on
in order to claim on your communities. Gay Map rail journeys.
DIRECTORY
PASSPORTS CUSTOMS Police
AND VISAS INFORMATION § 17
France-Visas Douanes et Droits Police, Ambulance, Fire

∑ france-visas.gouv.fr Indirects § 112
∑ douane.gouv.fr
GOVERNMENT TRAVELLERS
ADVICE INSURANCE WITH SPECIFIC
Australian Department EHIC REQUIREMENTS
of Foreign Affairs ∑ ec.europa.eu Accès Plus
and Trade ∑ accessibilite.sncf.com
GHIC
∑ smarttraveller.gov.au ∑ ghic.org.uk Accès Plus
Gouvernement France ∑ accessibilite.sncf.com
HEALTH
∑ gouvernement.fr Bespoke Holidays
SOS Médecins ∑ bespokefrance.com
UK Foreign and § sosmedecinsfrance.fr
Commonwealth Office Go Beyond
∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel- PERSONAL SECURITY ∑ gobeyondholidays.
advice Ambulance com
§ 15
US Department Office de Tourisme Nice
of State Fire ∑ nicetourisme.com/
∑ travel.state.gov § 18 nice-accessible
Time Zone and many cafés and May, June, September

restaurants offer free and October usually hover
France operates Central Wi-Fi for patrons. around 25°C (77°F).
European Time (CET). The Visitors with EU mobile Restaurant terraces will
clock moves forward by phone contracts can use be busy but fewer crowds
one hour during European their devices in Provence descend upon the region’s
Daylight Savings Time, without additional data cultural sights. November
which runs from the last roaming charges. Users and March can be rainy.
Sunday in March until the will be charged the same The sunshine makes even
last Sunday in October. rates for data, SMS and midwinter a terrific time to
voice calls as they would visit, but bear in mind that
Money pay at home. Those not Mistral winds can bring icy
on EU tariffs should check weather to Marseille and
France uses the euro (€). roaming rates with their inland Provence.
Most establishments provider. A cheaper option For two weeks in May
accept major credit, debit may be to purchase a it becomes impossible
and pre-paid currency French SIM card (you to get a hotel room or a
cards. Contactless pay- will need to show ID). table in a good restaurant
ments are accepted in Mobile phone coverage in or around Cannes as
major cities. Most taxi in most cities, towns and the resort hosts its Film
drivers and market villages is good but mobile Festival. The same is true
traders, as well as and GPS reception in of Monaco when the
many smaller bars and some mountainous areas Rallye Monte-Carlo (Jan)
restaurants, accept only is patchy. and Monaco Grand Prix
cash, so do carry a small (dates vary) take place.
amount with you. Postal Services August sees long delays
Tipping waiters in on the roads to and around
restaurants is considered Stamps (timbres) can the south – avoid the first
polite. If you are pleased be bought at post offices and last weekends.
with the service, a tip of and tabacs (tobacconists)
5–10 per cent of the total or online via La Poste. Opening Hours
bill is appreciated. Hotel Most post offices have
porters and housekeeping self-service machines to
generally expect a tip of €1 weigh and frank your COVID-19 Increased
to €2 per bag or day. For mail. Yellow post boxes rates of infection may
taxi journeys, round up the are ubiquitous. result in temporary
fare to the nearest euro. opening hours and/or
Weather closures. Always check
Electrical ahead before visiting
Appliances The south of France, and museums, attractions
especially the Côte d’Azur, and hospitality venues.
Standard voltage in is justly famed for having
France is 230V. Power one of the most desirable
sockets are type C and climates on the planet. In general, big stores
E, fitting two-pronged The coastal stretches and supermarkets open
plugs. You will need from Monaco to Cannes from 8am to 7pm, plus
adaptors, and possibly bathe in up to 300 days 9am to 1pm on Sundays.
a transformer (for some of sun per year. Pleasant Many smaller shops and
US electrical appliances). breezes keep most of the businesses close for an
sweltering summer heat hour or two from around
Mobile Phones at bay during the busy noon and are closed on
and Wi-Fi months of July and Sundays and public holi-
August, although visitors days. Very few restaurants
Free Wi-Fi hotspots are should be prepared for serve lunch after 2pm.
available in a number of an occasional week-long Museums have similar
public spaces, including heat wave, which makes opening hours across the
museums, libraries and sightseeing a little more entire region. Almost all
parks. Almost all hotels arduous. Temperatures in are open from 10am to
Practical Information ❮❮ 141
6pm Tuesday to Sunday. transport, free admission The retailer will generally
Outdoor cultural sights to museums and galleries supply a form and issue a
stay open later in summer. and other discounts. détaxe receipt at the time
of purchase. Make sure
Visitor Information Local Customs that you have your pass-
port with you to prove
Multilingual staff can offer Étiquette (la politesse) is non-resident status.
advice on where to visit, important to the French.
and hand out a wealth of Upon entering a store or Accommodation
maps and brochures, at café you are expected to
every Office de Tourisme say bonjour and, when Gîtes de France lists
in Provence and the Côte leaving, to say au revoir almost 2,500 rural self-
d’Azur. Even the tiniest to staff. Be sure to add catering holiday rental
town has an informative, s’il vous plaît (please) properties, chambres
all-encompassing website when ordering and pardon d’hôtes (B&Bs) and
with sightseeing ideas (sorry) if you accidentally campsites in Provence.
and accommodation bump into someone. Book well ahead if you
information in several The French usually plan to visit in summer
languages. The websites shake hands when (June to August) or during
of larger cities, such as meeting someone for the events such as the
Nice Tourisme and first time. Friends and Avignon Festival or
Marseille Tourisme, offer colleagues who know each Cannes Film Festival.
a selection of tourism, other well will greet each
transport and children’s other with a kiss on each DIRECTORY
apps, plus downloadable cheek. If you are unsure
PDF brochures. about what’s expected, POSTAL SERVICES
The wider official web wait to see if they offer a La Poste
portals for MyProvence hand or a cheek. ∑ laposte.fr
and Côte d’Azur Tourisme When visiting churches
offer plenty of information and cathedrals, dress VISITOR
and tempting ideas, such respectfully and keep INFORMATION
as sea-kayaking in the mobile phones on silent. Avignon City Pass
Camargue and vineyard and Vaucluse
visits in the Var. Language Provence Pass
City and regional passes ∑ vaucluse-provence-
can help you cut the cost French is the official pass.com
of sightseeing and public language spoken in Côte d’Azur Tourisme
transport. The Avignon France. English is spoken ∑ cotedazurfrance.fr
City Pass, valid for 24 in large hotels, but not
or 48 hours, offers free in all smaller establish- French Riviera Pass
∑ en.frenchrivierapass.
access to museums, ments, shops, bars and
monuments and gardens cafés, so mastering a few com
in Avignon and Villeneuve- niceties goes a long way. Marseille CityPass
lès-Avignon, as well as ∑ marseille-tourisme.
official themed guided Taxes and Refunds com
tours. The Vaucluse Marseille Tourisme
Provence Pass, valid for A sales tax (TVA) of 20 ∑ marseille-tourisme.
two, three or five days, per cent is imposed on com
covers the wider Vaucluse most goods and services.
region. The French Riviera Non-EU residents can MyProvence
∑ myprovence.fr
Pass allows free access reclaim the TVA they pay
to many sights, tours and on French goods at shops Nice Tourisme
activities, and free travel displaying the Global ∑ nicetourisme.com
on public transport Refund Tax-Free sign as
throughout the Nice-Côte long as they spend more ACCOMMODATION
d’Azur metropolitan area. than €175 in the same Gîtes de France
The Marseille CityPass shop in one day, and take ∑ gites-de-france.com
includes free public the goods out of France.
Places to Stay
PRICE CATEGORIES Grand Hotels
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast
if included), taxes and extra charges. Carlton Inter-
Continental, Cannes
€ under €200 €€ 200–400 €€€ over €400 MAP G4 58 La Croisette
•
•
04 93 06 40 06 www. •
Luxury Resorts Le Byblos, St-Tropez intercontinental-carlton-

MAP F5 20 av Paul
•
cannes.com €€ •
Hôtel la Baie Signac 04 94 56 68

•
The Carlton is a Cannes
Dorée, Antibes 00 Closed Nov–Mar
•
landmark, home of the
MAP G4 579 bd de la
• •
www.byblos.com €€€ •
stars during the Film
Garoupe 04 93 67 30
•
Beloved of rock stars and Festival and appropriately
67 www.baiedoree.com
•
fashionistas, Le Byblos luxurious, with its private
•
€€ also has one of St-Trop’s beach and high standards
With only 15 rooms – all trendiest nightspots, Les of service. The hotel is
but two of which have Caves du Roy (see p92), closed for renovations
a view of the sea – this attached to it. There’s until spring 2023, but its
hotel is an intimate also a Sisley spa and a chic beach club remains
alternative to the usual poolside restaurant. open (see p109).
large-scale luxury resorts Decked out in Art Deco
found on the Riviera. It has colours worthy of a chic Hôtel d’Europe,
a private beach and a jetty fashion shoot, this is Avignon
with loungers set around among the most luxur- MAP B3 12 pl Crillon
•
a tiny harbour. ious hotels in Provence. •

04 90 14 76 76 www. •
heurope.com €€ •
Cap Estel, Eze Monte Carlo Beach Step back in time as you
MAP H4 1312 av
•
Hotel, Roquebrune- enter the ornate gates
Raymond Poincaré, Èze Cap-Martin of this beautiful, historic
•
04 93 76 29 29 www.•
MAP H3 Av Princesse-
•
hotel. Heavy wooden
capestel.com €€€ •
Grace 04 93 28 66 66
•
furniture and antique
Constructed in 1900 on •
www.montecarlosbm. tapestries create an
a secluded peninsula with com €€€ •
elegant atmosphere, and
a private beach, the Cap This 46-room Art Deco no request is too much
Estel is much-loved by showpiece hotel has for the impeccable staff.
A-listers for its pampering an Olympic-sized pool,
and privacy. Rooms are a crescent of private Hôtel Hermitage,
in four buildings amid beach, three fine restau- Monte Carlo
an exotic garden with a rants and an overall MAP H4 Sq Beau-
•
spectacular infinity pool. ambience of exclusive marchais 00 377 98 06

•
luxury and comfort. 40 00 www.monte

•
Hôtel Martinez, carlosbm.com €€ •
Cannes Cheval Blanc, Despite its sleek,

MAP G4 73 bd de la
•
St-Tropez contemporary Yannick
Croisette 04 93 90 12 34
•
MAP F5 Plage de la
•
Alléno restaurant and
•
www.hyatt.com €€€ •
Bouillabaisse 04 94 55 •
the Mediterranean
A landmark on Cannes’ 91 00 Closed mid-Oct–
•
garden-style terrace, the
esplanade, the Martinez mid-Apr www.cheval
•
Hermitage recalls the
is a triumph of fin-de- blanc.com €€€ •
splendour of belle époque
siècle wedding-cake With its private beach, Monaco – gaze in awe at
stucco architecture, with pool, fine sea views the glass-domed atrium.
a private beach. Part of and excellent location, A monument in its own
the Hyatt chain of luxury it is hardly surprising right, it has been one of
hotels, it has everything that this is a favourite Europe’s smartest hotels
you could want for a with those who know since it opened in the
sybaritic stay. St-Tropez well. early 1900s.
Places to Stay ❮❮ 143
Hôtel Nord-Pinus, the Orangerie. All of Château de la

Arles them are spacious with Pioline, Aix-en-
MAP B4 14 pl du
•
modern amenities, and Provence
Forum 04 65 88 40 40
•
many have sea views. MAP C4 260 rue
•
•
Closed mid-Nov–mid- The superb restaurant Guillaume du Vair
Mar www.nord-pinus.
•
has a terrace and there’s Pole 04 42 52 27 27
•
com €€
•
a heated pool. •
www.chateaude
This historic hotel is the lapioline.com €€ •
best address in Arles. La Réserve, Beaulieu This elegant 16thcentury

The lounge and foyer have MAP H4 5 bd du
•
château is just 3 km
traditional Provençal decor. Maréchal Leclerc 04 93•
(2 miles) from Aix. It
01 00 01 www.reserve
•
combines historical detail
Hôtel de Paris, beaulieu.com €€€ •
with modern amenities.
Monte Carlo Opened in the late Some smaller rooms are
MAP H4 Pl du Casino
•
19th century, this pink in a garden outbuilding.
•
00 377 98 06 30 00 palace in its semitropical
•
www.montecarlosbm. grounds is a grand place Château des
com €€€
•
to stay. It still retains the Alpilles, St-Rémy
Rivalling the Hermitage glory of its 1920s heyday MAP B3 1392 rte de
•
for belle époque splen and exudes an air of Rougadou 04 90 92 03•
dour, the Hôtel de Paris quietly indulgent luxury. 33 www.chateau-

•
has a famous café desalpilles.com €€ •
terrace on the ground Le Negresco, Nice The château was built

floor (see p110) and is very MAP P5 37 prom des
•
in the 19th century for
close to the casino (see Anglais 04 93 16 64 00
•
a prominent Arles family.
p103). Queen Victoria •
www.hotel-negresco- The cuisine is rated highly
stayed here, as have a nice.com €€€ •
and the rooms in the
host of other crowned The flagship of the whole castle, former chapel and
heads and celebrities. Riviera, the Negresco converted farmhouses
is the grandest of grand are beautifully decorated.
Hôtel du Cap-Eden- hotels, from its splendid
Roc, Antibes belle époque façade to Château de Valmer,
MAP G4 Bd Kennedy
•
its immaculate rooms La Croix Valmer
•
04 93 61 39 01 www. and attentive service.
•
MAP F5 81 bd de
•
oetkercollection.com One of the world’s most Gigaro 04 94 55 15 15

•
•
€€€ opulent hotels. •
Closed Oct–Apr www. •
As ostentatious as the chateauvalmer.com No •
Negresco in its way, Château Hotels air conditioning €€ •
the Eden Roc is another Surrounded by a 5ha

landmark of the Riviera Château de Trigance, (12acre) park with
and has been since its Trigance palm trees and a vine
founding in 1870. It offers MAP F3 1400 rte de
•
yard, this hotel even has
exclusivity and filmstar Breis 04 94 76 91 18
•
its own private beach.
chic in tropical gardens •
Closed Nov–Mar www. •
and is, in a word, idyllic. chateau-de-trigance.fr Hôtel du Petit

•
No air conditioning € •
Palais, Nice
Hôtel Royal Riviera, With just eight rooms, MAP P4 17 av Emile
•
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat this small château, built Bieckert 04 93 62 19 11

•
MAP H4 3 av Jean
•
in the 10th century and •
www.petitpalaisnice.
Monnet 04 93 76 31 00 painstakingly restored
•
com €€ •
•
www.royal-riviera.com by its owners over the Set in an extensive
•
€€€ last 30 years, is now a garden, this former
This luxurious 1904 hotel great threestar hotel. palace offers a quiet
is situated on its private All the rooms have and scenic retreat on the
beach on the Cap Ferrat fourposter beds and hill of Cimiez. A relaxed
peninsula. The rooms medievalstyle decor, hotel, it is renowned for
are distributed between and the restaurant its magnificent views
the main building and is excellent. of the city and sea.
Airelles Château the countryside. It is La Maison de la

de la Messardière, one of the most impres- Sorgue, L’Isle-sur-
St-Tropez sive places to stay in la-Sorgue
MAP F5 2 Rte de Tahiti
•
Provence. It offers superb MAP C3 6 rue Rose
•
•
04 94 56 76 00 www. •
service and great food. Goudarde 06 87 32
•
airelles.com €€€ •
58 68 www.lamaison
•
Set on the outskirts of Health and surlasorgue.com €€ •
St-Tropez, this newly Beauty Spas Furnishings from around

revamped seaside palace the world and cutting-
has a private beach, Hôtel Jules César, edge mod cons fill rooms
a luxury spa and a Arles and suites in this stunning
swimming pool. It is MAP B4 9 bd des Lices
•
17th-century town house,
undoubtedly among the •
04 90 52 52 52 www. •
with a secret garden
nicest places to stay on hotel-julescesar.fr € •
and pool by the river.
this fashionable part In 2014, Christian Lacroix
of the coast. set about transforming Le Domaine de la
this 17th-century former Rose, Orgon
Château de la Carmelite convent in MAP C3 Rte d’Eygalières
•
Chèvre d’Or, Èze Arles city centre into a •

04 90 73 08 91 www. •
MAP H4 Rue du Barri

•
chic, boutique hotel. It mas-rose.com €€ •
•
04 92 10 66 66 Closed •
has a Cinq Mondes spa Set in a vast park of pines,
Dec–Feb www.chevre
•
and a heated pool in the lavender and olive groves,
dor.fr €€€
•
garden cloister. these 17th-century stone
The stunning Chèvre d’Or bergeries (farm buildings)
perches high above the Le Mas de la have been transformed
sea, looking out over Crémaillère, into the chic rooms of
clifftop battlements in Gréoux-les-Bains an elegant hotel.
this beautifully preserved MAP D3 Rte de Riez
•
castle-village. Rooms •
04 92 70 40 04 Closed
•
Les Rosées, Mougins
have a panoramic view mid-Dec–Mar www. •
MAP G4 238 Chemin
•
and each one is decorated mascremailleregreoux. de Font Neuve 04 92

•
with antiques. It has three com €•

92 29 64 www.les
•
restaurants (see p110) A range of spa packages rosees.com €€ •
and a pool and a spa at the sulphur-rich A haven of peace and

in a pretty setting. thermal springs of beauty: you can choose
Gréoux-les-Bains is between four differently
Château Eza, Èze available to guests in this decorated suites in a
MAP H4 Rue de la Pise
•
farmhouse-hotel. It has medieval farmhouse,
•
04 93 41 12 24 www. •
a swimming pool, golf or a romantic, shabby-
chateaueza.com €€€ •
practice range and a chic gypsy caravan at
A wonderful collection of restaurant noted for its the bottom of the garden.
medieval buildings now Provençal menu.
converted into a hotel. Hôtel Sezz,
Individually and luxuri- Hôtel le Couvent St-Tropez
ously decorated, the 14 des Minimes, Mane MAP F5 151 rte des
•
rooms and suites each MAP D3 Chemin des

•
Salins 04 94 55 31 55
•
have a marble bathroom. Jeux de Mai 04 92 74

• •
www.saint-tropez.
77 77 www.couvent
•
hotelsezz.com €€€ •
Château St-Martin, desminimes-hotelspa. Rooms at this chic

Vence com €€
•
and minimalist hotel,
MAP G4 2490 av des
•
This beautiful former just outside St-Tropez,
Templiers 04 93 58
•
convent boasts the first all come with private
02 02 www.oetker
•
L’Occitane hotel spa, along garden terraces and
collection.com €€€ •
with a pool, an aromatic outdoor showers.
This palatial hotel is set in garden, two restaurants There’s a spa and an
manicured grounds on a and a bar. The hotel is idyllic palm-lined pool,
hilltop site with views of closed for renovation plus a free shuttle
the medieval village and and will reopen in 2023. service into town.
Le Mas de Pierre, and the rooms are Le Cagnard, Cagnes-

St-Paul-de-Vence charming. It’s ideal for a sur-Mer
MAP G4 2320 rte des
•
romantic weekend away MAP G4 54 rue Sous-
•
Serres 04 93 59 00 10
•
at an affordable price. Barri 04 93 20 73 22
•
•
www.lemasdepierre. •
www.lecagnard.fr €€ •
com €€€ •
Moulin de la Only a few minutes’ drive
Located in the beautiful Camandoule, from the hurly-burly of
countryside outside of Fayence the Riviera, Le Cagnard
St-Paul-de-Vence, this MAP F4 159 chemin de
•
is a luxury inn, with lovely
luxurious four-star hotel Notre-Dame 04 94 76
•
rooms in a medieval
has been designed to help 00 84 www.camando
•
building, sweeping views
its guests relax. Facilities ule.com No air condi-
•
and a fine restaurant. All
include a rose garden tioning € •
this, and it’s located in a
with stunning views, a A swimming pool shaded pretty village smothered
hammam and a pool. beneath trees, excellent in purple bougainvillea.
food and a delightful
Tiara Yaktsa Côte location hidden away Le Mas d’Aigret,
d’Azur, Théoule- among vines and pines Les-Baux-de-
sur-Mer make this converted Provence
MAP G4 6 bd de •
olive mill one of the MAP B4 D27A, Chemin
•
l´Esquillon 04 92 28 60
•
most peaceful and de Baubesse 04 90 54•
30 yaktsa.tiara-hotels.
•
pleasant places to stay. 20 00 www.masdaigret.
•
com €€€ •
com €€ •
This relaxing hideaway is Grande Bastide, A charming character

perched amid verdant St-Paul-de-Vence hotel with two troglodytic
tropical gardens on the MAP G4 Rte de la Colle
•
rooms, partly carved
wild Esterel coast. It has 04 93 32 50 30 www.
• •
from limestone. It has
bars, restaurants, an la-grande-bastide.com an excellent restaurant
infinity pool, a private €€
•
and terrace, and is well-
beach and spa access. This converted country placed to explore the
house is just outside village as well as castle.
Super Hideaways St-Paul-de-Vence (though
it’s too far to walk, except La Ponche, St-Tropez
Hôtel des Deux Rocs, for the most energetic). It MAP F5 5 rue des
•
Seillans is calm, friendly and Remparts 04 94 97 02

•
MAP F4 Pl Font •
peaceful, with a pool 53 Closed Nov–mid-Mar
•
d’Amont 04 94 76 87 32 under palm trees and an

• •
www.laponche.com
•
www.hoteldeuxrocs. immaculately kept •
€€€
com No air conditioning garden. The rooms and
•
Stylish, individual and
•
€ suites are furnished and hidden in a tiny square
Located in a perfectly decorated in Provençal- with a view of the fishing
preserved medieval hill style fabrics, and there port, it is the perfect place
village, this is charming are beautiful views. to escape the bustle of
in an old-fashioned way. the town in summer.
It has a delightful terrace La Pérouse, Nice
on a tiny cobbled square, MAP P5 11 quai Rauba
•
La Villa Mauresque,
and a restaurant serving Capeu 04 93 62 34 63
•
St Raphaël
great Provençal cooking. www.hotel-la-perouse.
•
MAP F5 1792 rte de la
•
com €€ •
Corniche, Boulouris 04 •
Hôtel Villa la This hidden luxury 94 83 02 42 www.villa-

•
Roseraie, Vence retreat has one of the mauresque.com €€€ •
MAP G4 128 av Henri

•
best views of Nice’s lovely On a secret cove near
Giraud, rte de Course- promenade. Choose St-Raphaël, this Moorish-
goules 04 93 58 02
•
a sea-view room with style villa was built for a
20 www.villaroseraie.
•
its own terrace. There’s pasha in 1860. In 2013 it
com € •
a pretty dining courtyard was restored as a superb
This friendly small hotel and a rooftop hot tub luxury hotel, immersed in
has a pool and gardens, as well. lush, exotic gardens.
Value-for-Money Hôtel le Calendal, Le Benvengudo,

Hotels Arles Les-Baux-de-
MAP B4 5 rue Porte de
•
Provence
Hôtel 96, Marseille Laure 04 90 96 11 89
• •
MAP B4 Vallon de
•
MAP C5 96 av de la
•
www.lecalendal.com € •
l’Arcoule 04 90 54 32
•
Soude 04 91 71 90 22
•
A colourful place to stay in 54 www.benvengudo.
•
•
www.hotel96.com € •
a vibrant city, the Calendal com €€ •
A small, but attractive is brightly decorated and This charming hotel

family hotel located has a pretty, well-shaded proves that value is not
among pleasant gardens, garden café and a vaulted all about price: it has
Hôtel 96 offers a hearty spa. Some of the more comfortable, beautifully
breakfast and facilities expensive rooms have decorated rooms (some
such as a swimming terraces and are air with their own large
pool and sauna. The conditioned, making this terrace), a pool, garden,
rooms have contemporary three-star hotel a great- restaurant and tennis
decor and the hotel itself value place to stay in the court, and all in lovely
is a short bicycle ride otherwise expensive Arles. surroundings.
away from the beaches.
Le Windsor, Nice Gîtes and
Hôtel Ambassador, MAP H4 11 rue
•
Chambres d’Hôtes
Monaco Dalpozzo 04 93 88 59
•
MAP H4 10 av Prince-
•
35 www.hotelwindsor
•
Le Gîte de Chasteuil,
Pierre 00 377 97 97 96
•
nice.com € •
Castellane
96 www.ambassador
•
Artist-decorated rooms MAP F3 Hameau de •
monaco.com € •
with hand-painted murals, Chasteuil 06 73 56 •
This modern hotel could a swimming pool sur- 31 43 www.gitede

•
not be better located, rounded by palm trees chasteuil.com No air •
right in the heart of and alfresco meals come conditioning € •
Monaco, at the foot at an affordable price in This delightful bed-and-

of the Prince’s Palace. this hotel. breakfast is high on a
All the rooms are well hillside in a tiny hamlet
equipped, with a TV, Hôtel La Jabotte, close to the east end of
hairdryer and internet Cap d’Antibes the Canyon du Verdon,
access, and the on-site MAP G4 13 av Max-
•
with mountain views.
restaurant serves basic Maurey 04 93 61 45 89 For walkers, the GR4
•
Italian cuisine, including •

www.jabotte.com No long-distance footpath
•
good, inexpensive pizzas. air conditioning €€ •

passes right through the
With its clean, bright rooms village. Each bedroom
Hôtel Avaton, and chalets and good has its own bathroom,
Cannes location, La Jabotte is one and one has a kitchenette.
MAP G4 6 rue Emile-
•
of the better bargains in
Négrin 04 93 39 53
•
upmarket Antibes. It also Le Hameau de
90 www.avatonhotel.
•
has its own car park – quite Pichovet, Vachères
com € •
a rarity in Cap d’Antibes. MAP D3 Campagne •
Tucked away in a narrow Pichovet 04 92 73 33

•
street not far from the Hôtel Splendid, 48 www.hameau-de-

•
yacht harbour, this small Cannes pichovet.com No air •
hotel, offering a breath- MAP G4 4 rue Félix

•
conditioning € •
taking view of the port, Faure 04 97 06 22 22

•
Situated close to the
is quite possibly the •
www.splendid-hotel- lavender fields of
best bargain in Cannes. cannes.com €€ •
the Luberon National
The service is friendly, Value for money doesn’t Park, this stone house
and the rooms here are always mean cheap, but offers four guest rooms
simple, but clean and the Splendid, centrally and two apartments.
brightly lit (some have located close to the yacht The pool is heated
balconies with a sea harbour, is an impressive from mid-May to mid-
view), with phone, TV and hotel and is a bargain by October, and the
internet connection. Cannes standards. restaurant provides
authentic dishes at a La Prévôté, L’Isle- and mobile homes. It has

family-style dining table sur-la-Sorgue many sports facilities and
or on the terrace. MAP C3 4 rue Jean-
•
a free children’s mini-club.
Jacques Rousseau
Le Mas de la •
04 90 38 57 29 www. •
Camping Eden, Biot
Beaume, Gordes la-prevote.fr No air
•
MAP G4 63 chemin •
MAP C3 04 90 72 02 96
•
conditioning €€ •
du Val de Pôme 04 93 •
•
www.labeaume.com “A well-kept secret 65 63 70 Closed Nov– •
•
No air conditioning €
•
among friends” is the Mar www.camping-
•
Throw open the windows motto of this B&B, set eden.fr € •
and look out onto the in a former monastery. At the foot of the village
Alpilles mountains or Rooms are spacious and of Biot, this campsite has
the château of Gordes stylish, and the gourmet a swimming pool and a
from this delightful old restaurant uses only terrace restaurant, plus
farmhouse. The three fresh, local produce. an on-site grocery store
rooms and two suites are that sells fresh baguettes
individually decorated Les Roullets, Oppède and croissants every
and furnished with quirky MAP C3 305a chemin
•
morning. There’s a beach
antiques and fine linens. de Fontdrèche 04 90 71 nearby; Antibes is also
•
The swimming pool is 21 88 www.lesroullets. next door.

•
hidden in an olive grove, com €€

•
and breakfast comes with High on the hill of a Camping la Pinède,

home-made jams. Roman oppidum, this Grimaud
luxurious six-room B&B MAP F5 1968 rte de •
L’Hemmitage, occupies a stone-built Ste-Maxime 04 94 56 •
Salernes farmhouse. It has a heated 04 36 Closed Nov–Mar

•
MAP E4 683 chemin

•
pool and beautiful grounds www.capfun.com €
• •
la Pouade 06 89 43
•
with a 700-year-old tree. A cheap and cheerful
75 10 www.hemmitage.
•
alternative to St-Tropez’s
com No credit cards € Camping
• •
hotels – with facilities
Painted a striking pink, that include a mini-golf
this farmhouse set in Camping Abri course, a children’s play
vineyards and orchards de Camargue, area, a restaurant and
has eight holiday homes Le-Grau-du-Roi a snack bar.
named after famous MAP A4 320 rte du
•
painters. Each has its own Phare de l’Espiguette Camping le Pesquier,

kitchenette and terrace. •
04 66 51 54 83 Castellane
During high season, a •
Closed Oct–Mar www. MAP F3 RN 85, rte de
• •
minimum booking period abridecamargue.fr € Digne-les-Bains 04 92

• •
of one week is mandatory. This clean, medium-sized 83 66 81 Closed Oct– •
campsite is near a sandy Mar www.camping-le-

•
Maison du Frêne, beach. It has indoor and pesquier.com € •
Vence outdoor pools, a play This two-star site has a

MAP G4 1 place du
•
area, cinema, bar, shop small pool, and tents are
Frêne 06 88 90 49 69
•
and restaurant, and boules pitched under shady trees.
•
www.lamaisondufrene. and tennis courts nearby.
com €•
Huttopia Fontvieille
A delightful melange of Camping du Domaine, MAP B4 Rue Michelet •
Baroque, this arty 18th- Bormes-les-Mimosas 04 90 54 78 69 Closed

• •
century town house is MAP E5 2581 rte de

•
mid-Oct–Mar www. •
located in the centre of Bénat 04 94 71 03 12

•
europe.huttopia.com € •
Vence, opposite, appropri- •

Closed Nov–Mar Located in the heart of
ately enough, the Museum •
www.campdu the Alpilles Regional
of Modern Art. There are domaine.com € •
Park, this modern site
four spacious suites and A stone’s throw from the in a pine forest has a
a shared lounge, and rates sea, this leafy five-star heated outdoor pool
include free Wi-Fi and a family-oriented campsite and organizes children’s
generous French breakfast. also rents out bungalows activities in summer.
148 ❯❯ General Index
General Index
Page numbers in bold Antibes, the Pink Cloud Beaches (cont.)
refer to main entries. (Signac) 45 Plage d’Agay
Anvers, Matthieu d’ 41 (St-Raphaël) 52–3, 106
A Apt 127 Plage de Beauduc
Abbeys Arc de Triomphe (Camargue) 27
Abbaye de Montmajour (Cavaillon) 39 Plage de la Croisette
41, 82 Areas of natural beauty (Cannes) 106
Abbaye de Silvacane 82 50–51 Plage de la Garoupe
Abbaye de St-Gilles 26 Arles 7, 10, 16–17, 39, (Cap-d’Antibes) 52
Abbaye St-Michel de 83 Plage de l’Eléphant (Le
Frigolet 84 places to eat 62, 85 Lavandou) 53
Abbaye de St-Roman 84 places to stay 142, 144, Plage de St-Aygulf
Abbaye du Thoronet 88 146 (Fréjus) 53
Abbaye Notre-Dame de Art Plage des Fossettes
Sénanque 6, 8–9, 11, church 66 (St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat) 106
30–31, 125 galleries see Museums Plage Helios (Juan-les-
Accommodation 141 and galleries Pins) 106
Aiguines 15 masterpieces of Plage Notre Dame
Adventure parks Provence 43 (Porquerolles) 52
Ventoux Aventure painters in Provence Plages de Pampelonne
(Mormoiron) 59 44–45 (St-Tropez) 25, 52, 67
Air travel 134 St-Tropez 24 Plages de Tahiti
Aix-en-Provence 7, 10, Aune, François 21 (St-Tropez) 25
18–19, 36, 81 Avignon Prado Beaches
Aix Festival 68 Avignon Festival 68 (Marseille) 76
Cézanne trail 67 legends 46 Zélo (Beaulieu Port) 60
places to eat 85 map 125 Beaulieu Port 60, 143
places to stay 143 Palais des Papes 6, 10, Beauvezer 122
Allemagne-en-Provence 12–13 Bed and breakfast 141
122 papacy 13, 36, 46 Benedict XIII, Pope 46
Alpes d’Azur 114 places to eat 131 Benedict XII, Pope 12
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence places to stay 142 Benedict XII’s Cloister
118–23 sights 128 (Palais des Papes) 13
map 118 Bernard, St 31, 82
places to eat 123 B Biot 113, 117
sights 118–21 Baleison, Giovanni 40 Blanc-Martel Trail (Gorges
towns and villages 122 Bandol 47, 65 du Verdon) 14, 57
Alpes-Maritimes 112–17 nightlife 92 Blanqui, Louis-Auguste 37
map 112 Baou de St-Jeannet 57 Boats 137
mountain villages 116 Barcelonnette 122 Bonaparte, Napoleon 37,
places to eat 117 Barjols 47 105, 120
sights 112–15 Baroque churches (Nice) Bonnard, Pierre 25, 42
Anjou dynasty 37 21 Bonnieux 55, 62, 131
Annot 122 Beaches 52–3, 106 Bormes-les-Mimosas 47,
Ansouis 129 Palais des Festivals 49, 88, 89
Anti-popes 13, 37, 46 (Cannes) 106 places to stay 147
Antibes 104, 106, 108 Piémanson (Camargue) Bouches-du-Rhône 80–85
places to eat 111 53 map 80–81
places to stay 142, 143, Plage Belle-Rives (Juan- places to eat 85
147 les-Pins) 106 sights 80–84
General Index ❮❮ 149
Brantes 129 Casino Café de Paris Cathedrals (cont.)

Braque, Georges 42 (Casino de Monte Carlo) Cathédrale St-Sauveur
Brayer, Yves 40 110 (Aix-en-Provence) 19
Breakfast 67 Casinos Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth
Brigitte 24 Casino de Monte Carlo (Vaison-la-Romain) 40
Bullfighting 16, 69 103, 109 Cavaillon 39
Bulls, Camargue 26, 82 Var 92 Cavalaire 25, 57, 91, 92
Buses 135 Cassis 49, 52, 82 Caves (Villecroze) 89
Castellane 15, 121, 122 Ceramics 45, 108
C places to stay 146, 147 Cézanne, Paul 7, 18, 44, 43
Caesar, Julius 16, 28, 37 Castles and fortifications Aix-en-Provence 67
Café de Paris (Casino de Château de Beaucaire 84 François Zola Dam 44
Monte Carlo) 110 Château de l’Empéri Chagall, Marc 42, 44, 97
Cagnes-sur-Mer 105 (Salon-de-Provence) 81, Chambres d’hôtes 141,
places to eat 111 84 146–7
places to stay 145 Château d’If 46, 77 Chapels
Calanque de Giguerolles Château de Roquebrune Chapelle de la
(La Ciotat) 53 104 Misericorde (Nice) 20
Calanque d’En-Vau Château de Tarascon 81 Chapelle de la Visitation
(Cassis) 52 Château (Les-Baux-de- (Monaco) 105
Calefactory (Abbaye Notre- Provence) 59, 82 Chapelle des Pénitents
Dame de Sénanque) 31 Château-Musée Grimaldi Blancs (Les-Baux-de-
Callas 90 (Haut-de-Cagnes) 104 Provence) 40
Camargue 7, 11, 26–7, 51, Château Rocher Mistral Chapelle du Rosaire de
81 (La Barben) 59 Vence 41, 45
beaches 27, 53 Château (Vaison-la- Chapelle St-Charles
wildlife 26–7, 59 Romaine) 29 St-Claude (St-Paul-de-
Camoin, Charles 25, 42 Citadelle de Sisteron 120 Vence) 33
Camping 141, 147 Citadel (St-Tropez) 24 Notre-Dame des
Camus, Albert 45 Fort de l’Estissac (Port- Fontaines (La Brigue)
Canavesio, Giovanni 40 Cros) 71 34–5, 40, 116
Cannes Fort de Savoie (Colmars- La Chapelle Folon
beaches 106 les-Alpes) 120 (Chapelle des Pénitents
Film Festival 61, 68, 140 Fort Ste-Agathe Blancs) (St-Paul-de-
nightlife 109 (Porquerolles) 71 Vence) 33
places to eat 110, 111 Tour Suffren (St-Tropez) St John’s Chapel (Palais
places to see and be 25 des Papes) 12
seen 60, 61 Ville Forte (Entrevaux) Chapter House (Abbaye
places to stay 142, 143, 119 Notre-Dame de
146 Cathedrals Sénanque) 31
shopping 108 Cathédrale (Fréjus) 41 Château see Castles and
Canoeing 56 Cathédrale Notre Dame fortifications; Vineyards
Canyoning 57 de la Nativité (Vence) 115 Cheve d’Or (Èze) 63
Cap-d’Antibes 52, 61, 107 Cathédrale Notre-Dame- Children’s activities 58–9
places to eat 110, 111 des-Doms (Avignon) 128 Chorégies d’Orange 68
places to stay 146 Cathédrale Ste-Anne Christianity 36, 47
Cap-Ferrat 67 (Apt) 127 Christmas 47
Cap Martin 111 Cathédrale Ste-Réparate Churches
Carlton Beach Club 60, (Nice) 20 art 66
109 Cathédrale St-Léonce Baroque (Nice) 21
Carlton Inter-Continental (Fréjus) 87 Basilica St-Maximin
(Cannes) 143 Cathédrale St-Nicolas (St-Maximin-la-Ste-
Carpentras 127 (Nice) 97 Baume) 46, 88
Churches (cont.) Customs and immigration Fête de la Lavande (Sault)

Église Collégiale 138 47
(St-Paul-de-Vence) 33 Cycling 71, 91, 137 Fête de la St-Jean
Église des Saintes- events 50, 69 (Valréas) 47
Maries-de-la-Mer 41, 84 loaning 66, 67 Fête de la Tarasque
Église St-Trophime (Tarascon) 47
(Arles) 16, 40, 83 D Fête de la Transhumance
Notre-Dame-de-la- Daudet, Alphonse 45 (Riez/St-Rémy) 47, 69
Garde (Marseille) 75 Dentelles de Montmirail Fête de la Veraison
Notre-Dame-de- 49, 57, 126, 127 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape) 69
l’Assomption (Puget- Derain, André 25, 82 Fête du Millésime (Bandol)
Théniers) 41 Digne-les-Bains 51, 54, 47
Notre-Dame de 123 Fitzgerald, F Scott 45, 61
l’Assomption (St-Tropez) Distilleries & Domaines Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
24 de Provence 65 58, 62, 126
Notre-Dame-du-Puy Domaine de la Palissade Food and drink
(Grasse) 40, 66 (Camargue) 26 Christmas 47
see also Abbeys; Domaine de Méjanes free tastings 66
Cathedrals; Chapels; (Camargue) 26 money-saving tips 67
Monasteries Domaine du Rayol (Le regional specialities 63
Cimiez Hill (Nice) 97 Rayol-Canadel) 54, 89 shops 78, 108, 130
Cistercians 30, 31, 82, 88 Dormitory (Abbaye Notre- see also Restaurants;
Citadel (St-Tropez) 24 Dame de Sénanque) 31 Wine
“City of God” 47 Draguignan 89 Football 69, 76
Clement VII, Pope 37 Driving licences 136 Forcalquier 120, 123
Clement VI, Pope 12, 36 Dufy, Raoul 25, 42, 43, 45, Forêt de Turini 114
Clement V, Pope 12, 36 82 Formula One 69, 91
Climate 140 Dumas, Alexandre 45, 77 Fragonard, Jean-Honoré
Climbing 56 40, 66, 103
Club 55 (Ramatuelle, E France, union with 37
St-Tropez) 60 Egyptian Obelisk (Arles) 17 François Zola Dam
Cocteau, Jean 43 Electrical appliances 140 (Cézanne) 44
Colette 45 Embassies 138, 139 Franks 36
Colline du Château Emergency services 139 Free attractions 66–7
(Nice) 20 Entrevaux 119 Fréjus 38, 41, 53, 58, 87
Collobrières 89, 90, 93 Ephrussi de Rothschild, French Resistance 37
Colmars-les-Alpes 120 Beatrice 54, 103, 107 French Riviera see Monaco
Comps-sur-Artuby 90 Events 68–9 and the Riviera
Consistory Hall (Palais des Expat community (Nice) Froment, Nicolas 43
Papes) 12 96
Corso Fleuri (Bormes-les- Eyguières 84 G
Mimosas) 47 Èze 107 Gardens see Parks and
Cours Mirabeau (Aix-en- places to eat 63, 110 gardens
Provence) 18 places to stay 142, 143, Garnier, Charles 103
Cours Saleya (Nice) 6, 20 144 Genève, Robert de 37
Courtyard of Honour Gigondas 131
(Palais des Papes) 12 F Giono, Jean 45
Cousteau, Jacques 37 Fabre, Jean-Henri 55 Gîtes 146–7
COVID-19 140 Fayence 145 Glanum 39, 83
Crime 139 Ferries 137 Golf 56, 91
Cryptoportiques du Forum Festival des Quatuors à Gordes 129, 147
(Arles) 16 Cordes 68 Gorges de la Nesque
Currency 138, 140 Festivals 47, 68–9 126, 127
Gorges du Cians 50, 113 Hotels (cont.) J

Gorges du Daluis 50 grand 142–3 Jet-skiing 91
Gorges du Loup 51, 115 health and beauty spas John XII, Pope 46
Gorges du Verdon 7, 10, 144–5 Johnston, Lawrence 55
14–15, 69, 121 luxury resorts 142 Joûtes Provençales 69
driving tour 121 super hideaways 145 Juan-les-Pins 52, 106
places to eat 123 value-for-money 146
Gourdon 116 House with the Dolphin K
Government Advice 138 (Vaison-la-Romaine) Kayaking 58
Grasse 40, 66, 115 28 Klein, Yves 44, 95
places to eat 63, 117 House with the Silver
Great Audience Hall Bust (Vaison-la- L
(Palais des Papes) 13 Romaine) 28 La Bastide de Capelongue
Great Chapel (Palais Huguenots 37 (Bonnieux) 62, 131
des Papes) 13 Hyères 87, 92, 93 La Bastide St-Antoine
Greeks 16, 74, 83 (Grasse) 63
Greene, Graham 45 I La Brigue 116
Greenstronome (Arles) 62, Îles de Lérins 53 La Cadière-d’Azur 90, 93
85 Île de Bendor 71 Lac d’Allos 50
Gregory XI, Pope 13 Îles des Embiez 71 Lac de Ste-Croix 7, 14, 15,
Gréoux-les-Bains 123, Îles d’Hyères 50, 70 91, 121
144 Île d’If 70 La Celle 93
Grimaldi dynasty 36, Îles du Frioul 70 La Ciotat 53
103, 104 Île Verte 71 La Corniche Sublime
Grimaldi, François 36, 37 Ingram, Sir William 104 (Gorges du Verdon) 14
Grimaldi, Jean Henri 104 Ingrand, Max 82 La Croix Valmer 143
Grimaud 147 Insurance 138 La Fontanette (St-Tropez) 25
Grotte Cosquer 36 International Piano Festival La Garde-Freinet 89, 90
Grotte d’Observatoire (La Roque d’Anthéron) La Marseillaise 37, 74
(Monaco) 36 68 La Napoule 62
Guigou, Paul 45 Islands, offshore 70–71 Language 141, 159–60
Guillaume I, Duke of Itineraries La Palme d’Or (Cannes) 60
Provence 25 A Day’s Drive in the La Ponche (St-Tropez) 25
Guillaume le Libérateur, Massif des Maures 89 La-Palud-sur-Verdon 15,
Count of Arles 36 A Day’s Drive in the 121, 122
Gypsies 26 Vaucluse Mountains La Tarasque 47
127 La Trophée d’Auguste (La
H A Morning Drive through Turbie) 38, 112
Hadrian, Emperor 28 the Canyon (Verdon) La Turbie 38, 112, 117
Haute Ville (Vaison-la- 121 La Vague d’Or (St Tropez) 62
Romaine) 29 A Morning Exploring Lavender fields 31, 66
Health 138, 139 Marseille 77 La Vieille Charité
Hiking see Walking A Morning Tour of the (Marseille) 76
History 36–7 Rock (Monaco) 105 Le Barroux 129
Hitchhiking 67 A Morning Walk Around Le Beaucet 131
Horses, Camargue 26, 82 Nice 97 Le Bistrot du Port (Golfe
Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc A Walk through Medieval Juan) 61
(Antibes) 61, 143 Vence 115 Le Chantecler (Nice) 62
Hôtel Le Majestic Barrière Little Rome: A Morning Le Castellet 90
(Cannes) 61, 110 in Arles 83 Le Grau du Roi 147
Hotels 142–7 Seven Days in Provence Le Lavandou 53
budget 67 6–7 Le Levant (Îles d’Hyères) 70
château 143–4 Two Days in Provence 6 Legends, Provençal 46–7
Léger, Fernand 42, 43, 44, M Monaco and the Riviera

49 Maison des Messii (cont.)
Le Panier (Marseille) 76 (Vaison-la-Romaine) 28 Monaco Grand Prix 69,
Le Petit Majestic (Cannes) Malaucène 129 140
60 Man in the Iron Mask 46 Monaco tour 105
Le Petit Nice Passedat Mane 144 nightlife 109
(Marseille) 63, 79 Manosque 123 places to eat 111
Le-Rayol-Canadel 52, 93 Markets places to stay 142, 143,
Les Alpilles 51, 83 Aix-en-Provence 19 146
Les Alyscamps (Arles) 17 Antiques Market Riviera gardens 107
Les Antiques de Glanum (Antibes) 108 shopping 108
39, 83 Farmers’ Market sights 102–5
Les Arcs-sur-Argens 90, (Velleron) 130 Monasteries
93 Fish Market (Nice) 97 Chartreuse de la Verne
Les Arènes (Arles) 16, 83 Le Marché Forville 89
Les Arènes de Fréjus 38 (Cannes) 108 Chartreuse du Val-de-
Les-Baux-de-Provence 7, Marché des Capucins Bénediction (Avignon)
48, 72–3, 82 (Marseille) 77 128
places to eat 63 St-Tropez 25 Money-saving tips 67
places to stay 145, 146 Marseille 74–9 Mons 90
Les Calanques (Marseille) map 74–5 Montagne de Lure 119
57, 76–7 places to eat 63, 77 Monte Carlo 67
Les Caves du Roy places to stay 146 Casino 103
(St-Tropez) 60 shopping 76 places to eat 62, 110, 111
Les Marais du Vigueirat sights 74–7 Mont Faron 91
59 walking tour 77 Mont Pelat 119
Les Mées 122 Martigues 85 Mont Sainte-Victoire 18, 44
Les Pénitents des Mées 47 Mary Magdalene 26, 46, Mont Ventoux 50, 119, 125,
Les-Saintes-Maries-de-la- 41, 88 127
Mer 26, 39, 84, 85 Massif de l’Esterel 57, places to stay 142, 143
Le St-Paul (St-Paul-de- 88 Mougins 110, 144
Vence) 59 Massif des Maures 51, Mountain biking 56, 91
Les Tripettes (Barjols) 47 57, 90, 91 Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
LGBTQ+ Travellers 139 driving tour 89 14, 48, 100–101, 119, 121
Liberation 37 Matisse, Henri 25, 43, places to eat 123
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue 130 45, 49, 82 Museums and galleries
places to eat 131 Musée Matisse (Nice) art galleries 42–3
places to stay 145, 147 6, 42, 95 Atelier de Cézanne (Aix-
Literature 45 Vence 41, 45 en-Provence) 18
L’Oasis (La Napoule) 62, 93 Ménerbes 129 Château-Musée Grimaldi
L’Orage (Signac) 43 Menton 105, 107, 108 (Haut-de-Cagnes) 104
Louis III of Anjou 81 cafés 110 Collection Lambert
Louis XIV of France 46 Midnight Mass 47 (Avignon) 128
Louis XV (Monte Carlo) 62, Mirabeau, Comte de Fondation Maeght
111 77 (St-Paul de-Vence) 42,
Lourmarin 131 Miró, Joan 42 115
L’Oustau de Baumanière Mistral, Frédéric 45 Fondation Vincent van
(Les-Baux-de-Provence) Monaco and the Riviera Gogh (Arles) 83
63, 85 67, 102–11 Granet XXe (Aix-en-
Luberon 30, 37, 50, 125 beaches and watersports Provence) 19
Luceram 116 106 Musée Angladon–
Lurs 119 cafés with terraces 110 Collection Jacques
Luxury resorts 142 map 102–3 Doucet (Avignon) 128
Museums and galleries Museums and galleries Notre-Dames des Anges

(cont.) (cont.) 89
Musée Bonnard (Le Musée Matisse (Nice) 6, Nymphaeum (Vaison-la-
Cannet) 42 42, 95 Romaine) 29
Musée Calvert (Avignon) Musée National Marc
128 Chagall (Nice) 42, 44, O
Musée Cantini (Marseille) 97 Occupation 37
77 Musée Oceanographique Opening hours 140
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Monaco) 58, 104, 105 Opéra de Nice 21
(Nice) 96 Musée Picasso (Antibes) Oppède-le-Vieux 129, 147
Musée d’Art Moderne 43, 104 Orange 38, 68, 125, 132–3
et d’Art Contemporain Musée Réattu (Arles) 83 Orgon 144
(MAMAC) (Nice) 42, 44, Musée Renoir (Cagnes- Outdoor activities
95, 97 sur-Mer) 43, 105 offshore islands 71
Musée de la Camargue Musée Théo Desplans Riviera 106
(Mas du Pont de Rousty) (Vaison-la-Romaine) 28 Var and Provençal Coast
26, 84 Museum of the 91
Musée de l’Annonciade Civilizations of Europe see also Sports
(St-Tropez) 25, 42 and the Mediterranean
Musée de Préhistoire des (MuCEM) (Marseille) 75 P
Gorges du Verdon 121 Museum of Wine and Pagnol, Marcel 45
Musée Departemental Spirits (Île de Bendor) Painters 44–5
Arles Antique 17 71 Palaces
Musée des Arts Villa Arson (Nice) 66 Palais de Papes
Asiatiques (Nice) 96 Music festivals 68–9 (Avignon) 6, 10, 12–13,
Musée des Arts 128
Décoratifs, de la Faïence N Palais Lascaris (Nice) 20,
et de la Mode (Marseille) National parks 97
77 Parc National de Port- Palais Longchamp
Musée des Arts et Cros 50, 70 (Marseille) 76, 77
Traditions Populaires Parc National du Prince’s Palace (Monaco)
(Draguignan) 89 Mercantour 50 103, 105
Musée des Beaux-Arts Nativity scenes 47 Parascending 91
(Nice) 95 Nice 6, 22–3, 94–9 Parks and gardens 54–5
Musée des Merveilles 114 Carnaval 69 Arboretum de Gratteloup
Musée des Souvenirs Jazz Festival 68–9 89
Napoléoniens (Monaco) legends 46 Château Val Joanis
105 map 94 (Pertuis) 55
Musée du Petit Palais nightlife 98 Domaine du Rayol (Le
(Avignon) 128 places to eat 62, 99 Rayol-Canadel) 54, 89
Musée du Riz (Sambuc) places to stay 143, 144, Harmas Jean-Henri
84 145, 146 Fabré (Sérignan-du-
Musée Fernand Léger sights 94–7 Comtat) 55
(Biot) 42, 113 Vieux Nice 11, 20–21, 57, Japanese Garden
Musée Granet (Aix-en- 95, 97 (Monaco) 107
Provence) 19 walking tour 97 Jardin Botanique des
Musée Grobet-Labadié Nightlife Cordeliers (Digne-les-
(Marseille) 45, 76, 77 Nice 98 Bains) 54
Musée Jean Cocteau Le Riviera 109 Jardin Botanique Thuret
Bastion (Menton) 43 Var 92 (Cap d’Antibes) 107
Musée Jean Cocteau Noailles, Charles and Jardin Botanique Val
Collection Séverin Marie-Laure de 87 Rahmeh (Menton) 55,
Wunderman (Menton) 43 Nostradamus 37, 81 107
Parks and gardens (cont.) Plage see Beaches Regional parks

Jardin de la Villa Plague 37 Parc Naturel Régional
Ephrussi de Rothschild Point Sublime (Gorges de Camargue 27, 81
(St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat) 54, du Verdon) 14, 121 Parc Naturel Régional
107 Pompey 28 du Luberon 50, 125
Jardin Exotique (Èze) 107 Pont du Gard 39 Parc Naturel Régional
Jardin Exotique (Monaco) Pont Flavien (St-Chamas) du Verdon 121
55, 107 39, 84 René of Naples 37, 81
Jardins d’Albertas (Bouc- Pont Romain (Vaison-la- Renoir, Auguste 43, 105
Bel-Air) 54 Romaine) 29 Réserve Géologique de
Jardins du Casino (Monte Pont St Bénézet (Avignon) Haute-Provence 51
Carlo) 107 46, 128 Restaurants 140
Jardion de la Louve Pope’s Chamber (Palais Alpes-de-Haute-
(Bonnieux) 55 des Papes) 13 Provence 123
Parc de Vaugrenier Porquerolles (Îles Alpes-Maritimes 117
(Villeneuve-Loubet) 107 d’Hyères) 52, 70, 71, Bouches-du-Rhône 85
Parc Fontvieille (Monaco) 91 gourmet 62–3
107 Port-Cros (Îles d’Hyères) Marseille 79
Parc Longchamp 57, 70, 65, 91 Monaco and the Riviera
(Marseille) 77 Porte de la Redoute 111
Parc Phoenix (Nice) 96 (Arles) 16 Nice 99
Princess Grace Rose Portico of Pompey (Vaison- Var and Provençal Coast
Garden (Monaco) 107 la-Romaine) 28 93
Riviera gardens 107 Port Lympia (Nice) 96 Vaucluse 131
Serre de la Madone Port St-Louis du Rhône Rhône, River 16, 26, 46
(Menton) 55 27 Riez 38, 47
Villa Eilenroc Gardens Port St-Lucia (St-Raphaël) Road travel 135, 136
(Cap d’Antibes) 107 106 Rock art 36, 114
see also National parks; Postal services 140 Rodin, Auguste 95
Regional parks; Theme Promenade des Anglais Romans 38–9
and amusement parks; (Nice) 95 Aix-en-Provence 18, 36
Water parks Promenade du Paillon Arc de Triomphe
Passes 67 (Nice) 6, 95 (Cavaillon) 39
Passports 138 Public transport 135 Arles 7, 10, 16–17, 39,
Pavillon de Vendôme Puget-Théniers 116 83
(Aix-en-Provence) 19 Puymin (Vaison-la- Fréjus 38, 87
Peillon 116, 117 Romaine) 28 Glanum 39, 83
Perfume 115 La Trophée d’Auguste
Personal security 139 Q (La Turbie) 38, 112
Pétanque 69 Quartier du Malonat (Nice) Pont du Gard 39
Petrarch 37, 49, 126 21 Pont Flavien (St-Chamas)
Pharmacies 138 Quartier Mazarin (Aix-en- 39, 84
Phrase book 159–60 Provence) 19 Temple of Apollo (Riez)
Picasso, Pablo 43, 45, 49, Quarton, Enguerrand 43 38
104, 108 Théâtre Antique
Picnics 67 R d’Orange 38, 125
Place de l’Horloge Radcliff, Lord 55, 107 Vaison-la-Romaine 6,
(Avignon) 128 Rail travel 67, 134 11, 28–9, 39
Place du Forum (Arles) 17 Ramatuelle 90, 93 Ronzen, Antoine 41
Places des Lices Red Vineyard Near Arles, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin
(St-Tropez) 25 The (Van Gogh) 44 49, 104, 142
Place St-François (Nice) Refectory (Palais des Rouault, Georges 25
20 Papes) 12 Roussillon 46, 49, 129
Route des Crêtes (Gorges Salle des Ameriques Stag Room (Palais des
du Verdon) 14 (Casino de Monte Carlo) Papes) 12
Rubens, Peter Paul 40, 66 109 Synagogue (Carpentras)
Rue des Teinturiers Salle des Mariages 127
(Avignon) 128 (Menton) 105
Rue Gaston-de-Saporta Salon de Provence 81 T
(Aix-en-Provence) 18 Salt pans (Camargue) 26 Tarascon 47, 81
Rue Pairolière (Nice) 21 Sanary-sur-Mer 87 Taxis 136
Rue St-François-de-Paule Saorge 116 Temple of Apollo (Riez) 38
(Nice) 20 Sara, St 26, 41, 47, 84 Tennis 69
Saracens 36, 47 Téoule-sur-Mer 106
S Sault 47, 127 Theatres
Sailing 56, 69, 71, 91, 106 Sautel, Chanoine 28 Théâtre Antique (Arles)
Saint-Laurent-du-Var 92 Savoy, Kingdom of 37 16, 83
St-André-les-Alpes 122 Scuba diving 50, 57, 71, Théâtre Antique
St-Cézaire 116 91, 106 d’Orange 38, 125
St-Chamas 39 Sea kayaking 7 Théâtre Antique (Vaison-
Ste-Agnès 116 Sea urchins 138 la-Romaine) 29
Ste-Marguerite (Îles de Ségurane, Cathérine 37, 46 Theme and amusement
Lérins) 70 Séguret 49, 127, 129 parks
St-Exupéry, Antoine de Seillans 145 Azur Park (St-Tropez)
37 Self-catering 67, 141 58
St-Honorat (Îles de Lérins) Sentier des Douaniers Le Village des Automates
53, 71, 111 (St-Tropez) 25 (St-Cannat) 59
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat 69, Serre de la Madone Thermes de Constantin
103 (Menton) 55 (Arles) 16, 83
places to eat 110, 111 Seyne-les-Alpes 122 The Var and Provençal
places to stay 143 Abbey Shop (Sénanque) Coast 86–93
St-Martin-Vesubie 147 30 map 86–7
St Maximin-de-la-Ste- Marseille 78 nightlife 92
Baume 46, 88 Monaco and the Riviera places to eat 93
St-Paul-de-Vence 49, 61, 108 sights 86–90
115, 116 Vaucluse 130 sports and outdoor
places to eat 117 Signac, Paul 24, 25, 42, activities 91
places to stay 144, 145 45 Time zone 140
St-Raphaël 52–3 Antibes, the Pink Cloud 45 Tomb of the Seigneur de
nightlife 92 L’Orage 43 Venasque (Abbaye
places to eat 93 Simiane-la-Rotonde 122 Notre-Dame de
places to stay 145 Sirmonde 46 Sénanque) 31
watersports 106 Sisteron 48, 120, 123 Toulon 89, 92
St-Rémy-de-Provence 7, Six-Fours-les-Plages 57, Toulouse, Count of 29
44, 83 91 Tour de France 50
places to eat 85 Skiing 56, 114 Tour des Mourgues
places to stay 143 Société des Régates (Arles) 16
St-Tropez 7, 11, 24–5, 52, d’Antibes 106 Tour Suffren (St-Tropez)
91 Sospel 116 25
nightlife 92 Spas, health and beauty Tourtour 90
places to eat 62, 92 144–5 Traditions 47
places to see and be Sports 56–7 Travel information 134–7
seen 60 events 69 Travellers with Specific
places to stay 142, 144, Riviera 106 Requirements 139
145 Var and Provençal Treasury Halls (Palais des
on a shoestring 67 Coast 91 Papes) 13
Trigance 15, 143 Village des Tortues 89 Walking (cont.)

Trips and tours Villages 48–9 top 10 walks 57
see Itineraries Alpes-Maritimes 116 see also Itineraries
Turks, Ottoman 46 perched 88, 129 Wars of Religion 37,
Var 88, 90 126
V Vaucluse 129 Water parks
Vachères 147 Villas Aqualand (Fréjus) 58
Vacqueyras 129 Villa Ephrussi de Watersports
Vaison-la-Romaine 6, 11, Rothschild (St-Jean- Riviera 106
28–9, 39, 125 Cap-Ferrat) 54, 103, Var 106
places to eat 131 107, 110 Weather 140
Valensole 123 Villa Kérylos (Beaulieu- Wharton, Edith 45
Vallauris 45, 108 sur-Mer) 105 Wi-Fi 140
Vallée de la Vésubie 114 Villa Masséna (Nice) 6, Wildlife
Vallée des Merveilles 36, 96 Aquascope (Embiez)
57, 114 Villa Noailles (Hyères) 87 71
Valréas 47 Villecroze 89 areas of natural beauty
Van Gogh, Vincent 7, 43, Villeneuve-les-Avignon 131 50–51
44, 83 Villeneuve Loubet 107, Camargue 26–7, 59
Red Vineyard Near Arles, 108, 111 Musée Oceanographique
The 44 Vineyards 64–5 (Monaco) 58, 104, 105
Vaucluse 124–31 Château de Berne 64 Parc Ornithologique du
driving tour 127 Château de Pibarnon Pont-de-Gau 27, 84
map 124–5 65 Windsurfing 57, 91
places to eat 131 Château La Coste 65 Wine
shopping 130 Château Romanin 64 festivals 47, 69
sights 124–8 Château Ste-Roseline 64 regional 65
villages 129 Château Val Joanis tastings 66, 126
Vaudois 30, 37, 126 (Pertuis) 55 see also Vineyards
Veil, Simone 37 Domaine de Beaurenard Writers 45
Venasque, Geoffroy, Lord 64 Wunderman, Séverin
of 31 Domaine de la Citadelle 43
Vence 113 65
places to eat 117 Domaine Rabiega 64 Y
places to stay 144, Domaine St Andréde Youth hostels 67
145, 147 Figuière 65
walking tour 115 Visas 138
Verdon, River 14–15 Visitor information 141
Vésian, Nicole de 55
Vicens, Richard 61 W
Vichy government 37 Walking
Vidauban 93 Camargue 26
Vieux Nice 11, 20–21, 57, Gorges du Verdon
95, 97 14, 57
Vieux Port (Marseille) Les Alpilles 51
75, 77 Massif de l’Esterel
Vieux Port (St-Raphaël) 88
106 Massif des Maures 91
Vieux Port (St-Tropez) offshore islands 71
24 St-Tropez 25, 91
Acknowledgments ❮❮ 157
Acknowledgments
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Phrase Book ❮❮ 159
Phrase Book I would like … Je voudrais… zhuh voo-dray

Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo
credit cards? acceptez les zaksept-ay leh
In an Emergency cartes de crédit? kart duh krehdee
Help! Au secours! oh sekoor This one. Celui-ci. suhl-wee-see
Stop! Arrêtez! aret-ay That one. Celui-là. suhl-wee-lah
Call… Appelez… apuh-lay expensive cher shehr
…a doctor! …un médecin! uñ medsañ cheap pas cher, pah shehr,
…an …une oon bon marché, boñ mar-shay
ambulance! ambulance! oñboo-loñs size, clothes la taille tye
…the police! …la police! lah poh-lees
…the fire …les leh poñ-peeyay size, shoes la pointure pwañ-tur
brigade! pompiers!
Types of Shop
Communication Essentials antique shop le magasin maga-zañ
Yes/No Oui/Non wee/noñ d’antiquités d’oñteekee-tay
Please S’il vous plaît seel voo play bakery la boulangerie booloñ-zhuree
Thank you Merci mer-see bank la banque boñk
Excuse me Excusez-moi exkoo-zay bookshop la librairie lee-brehree
mwah cake shop la pâtisserie patee-sree
Hello Bonjour boñzhoor cheese shop la fromagerie fromazh-ree
Goodbye Au revoir oh ruh-vwar chemist la pharmacie farmah-see
Good night Bonsoir boñ-swar department le grand groñ maga-zañ
What? Quel, quelle? kel, kel store magasin
When? Quand? koñ delicatessen la charcuterie sharkoot-ree
Why? Pourquoi? poor-kwah gift shop le magasin de maga-zañ duh
Where? Où? oo cadeaux kadoh
greengrocer le marchand mar-shoñ duh
Useful Phrases de légumes lay-goom
How are you? Comment kom- grocery l’alimentation alee-moñtasyoñ
allez-vous? moñ talay voo market le marché marsh-ay
Very well, Très bien, treh byañ newsagent le magasin de maga-zañ duh
Pleased to Enchanté de oñshoñ-tay duh journaux zhoor-no
meet you. faire votre fehr votr kon- post office la poste, pohst, booroh
connaissance. ay-sans le bureau de duh pohst,
Where is/are…? Où est/sont…? oo ay/soñ poste, le PTT peh-teh-teh
Which Quelle est la kel ay lah deer- supermarket le supermarché soo pehr-
way to..? direction pour..? ek-syoñ poor marshay
Do you speak Parlez-vous par-lay voo tobacconist le tabac tabah
English? anglais? oñg-lay travel agent l’agence l’azhoñs
I don’t Je ne compr- zhuh nuh kom- de voyages duh vwayazh
understand. ends pas. proñ pah
I’m sorry. Excusez-moi. exkoo-zay mwah Sightseeing
art gallery la galerie d’art galer-ree dart
Useful Words bus station la gare routière gahr roo-tee-yehr
big grand groñ cathedral la cathédrale katay-dral
small petit puh-tee church l’église l’aygleez
hot chaud show garden le jardin zhar-dañ
cold froid frwah library la bibliothèque beebleeo-tek
good bon boñ museum le musée moo-zay
bad mauvais moh-veh railway station la gare (SNCF) gahr (es-en-say-ef)
open ouvert oo-ver tourist office l’office du ohfees doo
closed fermé fer-meh tourisme tooreesm
left gauche gohsh town hall l’hôtel de ville l’ohtel duh veel
right droit drwah
entrance l’entrée l’on-tray Staying in a Hotel
exit la sortie sor-tee Do you have a Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo-
toilet les toilettes twah-let vacant room? avez une zavay oon
chambre? shambr
Shopping I have a J’ai fait une zhay fay oon
How much is it? Ça fait combien? sa fay kom-byañ reservation. réservation. rayzehrva-syoñ
What time… A quelle heure… ah kel urr single room la chambre à shambr ah
…do you open? …êtes-vous et-voo oo-ver une personne oon pehr-son
ouvert? twin room la chambre à shambr ah
…do you close? …êtes-vous et-voo fer-may deux lits duh lee
fermé? room with a la chambre avec shambr avek
Do you have? Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo bath, shower salle de bains, sal duh bañ,
avez? zavay une douche oon doosh
160 ❯❯ Phrase Book
double room, la chambre à shambr ah onions les oignons leh zonyoñ

with a double deux personnes, duh pehr-son orange juice l’orange pressée l’oroñzh presseh
bed avec un grand avek un gronñ pepper le poivre pwavr
lit lee pork le porc por
potatoes les pommes pom duh tehr
Eating Out de terre
Have you Avez-vous une avay-voo oon rice le riz ree
got a table? table libre? tahbl duh leebr roast rôti row-tee
I want to Je voudrais zhuh voo-dray salt le sel sel
reserve réserver rayzehr-vay sausage la saucisse sohsees
a table. une table. oon tahbl seafood les fruits de mer frwee duh mer
The bill, L’addition, s’il l’adee-syoñ seel snails les escargots leh zes-kar-goh
please. vous plaît. voo play soup la soupe, soop,
Waitress/ Madame, mah-dam, le potage poh-tazh
waiter Mademoiselle/ mah- steak le bifteck, le steak beef-tek, stek
Monsieur demwahzel/ sugar le sucre sookr
muh-syuh tea le thé tay
menu le menu, la carte men-oo, kart vegetables les légumes lay-goom
fixed-price le menu à men-oo ah vinegar le vinaigre veenaygr
menu prix fixe pree feeks water l’eau l’oh
cover charge le couvert koo-vehr red wine le vin rouge vañ roozh
wine list la carte des vins kart-deh vañ white wine le vin blanc vañ bloñ
glass le verre vehr
bottle la bouteille boo-tay Numbers
knife le couteau koo-toh 0 zéro zeh-roh
fork la fourchette for-shet 1 un, une uñ, oon
spoon la cuillère kwee-yehr 2 deux duh
breakfast le petit puh-tee 3 trois trwah
déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay 4 quatre katr
lunch le déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay 5 cinq sañk
dinner le dîner dee-nay 6 six sees
main course le plat principal plah prañsee-pal 7 sept set
starter, first l’entrée, le hors l’oñ-tray, 8 huit weet
course d’oeuvre or-duhvr 9 neuf nerf
dish of the day le plat du jour plah doo zhoor 10 dix dees
wine bar le bar à vin bar ah vañ 11 onze oñz
café le café ka-fay 12 douze dooz
13 treize trehz
Menu Decoder 14 quatorze katorz
baked cuit au four kweet oh foor 15 quinze kañz
beef le boeuf buhf 16 seize sehz
beer la bière bee-yehr 17 dix-sept dees-set
boiled bouilli boo-yee 18 dix-huit dees-weet
bread le pain pan 19 dix-neuf dees-nerf
butter le beurre burr 20 vingt vañ
cake le gâteau gah-toh 30 trente tront
cheese le fromage from-azh 40 quarante karoñt
chicken le poulet poo-lay 50 cinquante sañkoñt
chips les frites freet 60 soixante swasoñt
chocolate le chocolat shoko-lah 70 soixante-dix swasoñt-dees
coffee le café kah-fay 80 quatre-vingts katr-vañ
dessert le dessert deh-ser 90 quatre-vingt-dix katr-vañ-dees
duck le canard kanar 100 cent soñ
egg l’oeuf l’uf 1,000 mille meel
fish le poisson pwah-ssoñ
fresh fruit le fruit frais frwee freh Time
garlic l’ail l’eye one minute une minute oon mee-noot
grilled grillé gree-yay one hour une heure oon urr
ham le jambon zhoñ-boñ half an hour une demi-heure urr duh-me urr
ice, ice cream la glace glas one day un jour urr zhorr
lamb l’agneau l’anyoh Monday lundi luñ-dee
lemon le citron see-troñ Tuesday mardi mar-dee
fresh lemon juice le citron pressé see-troñ presseh Wednesday mercredi mehrkruh-dee
meat la viande vee-yand Thursday jeudi zhuh-dee
milk le lait leh Friday vendredi voñdruh-dee
mineral water l’eau minérale l’oh meeney-ral Saturday samedi sam-dee
oil l’huile l’weel Sunday dimanche dee-moñsh

DK Eyewitness Top 10 Provence and The Côte D'azur (Pocket Travel Guide)

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DK Eyewitness Top 10 Provence and The Côte D'azur (Pocket Travel Guide)

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EYEWITNESS

Provence and the Streetsmart

Thousands of years of migration have left a lasting cultural legacy

The Côte d’Azur is the south of France at its most cosmopolitan

Whether you’re visiting for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide

Two Days in Provence Vaison-

then take a jaunt down

Seven Days in Provence

Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, surrounded by lavender fields

Provence and the

Palais des Papes

The Verdon river flows

St-Louis D56 0D56 0

into the Lac de Ste-Croix, creating La Couronne

one of Provence’s most stunning

Palais des Papes

Just off the Consistory

Great the roof of the palace.

2 Point Sublime Moustiers-

NEED TO KNOW 2–5:30pm; Jan–Feb & Dec: Sat, 9:30am–12:30pm Sun

Apr–May & Oct: 10am– Nationale; 04 92 83 61 14; Verdon (Corniche Sublime/

7pm (9:30am–12:30pm, Mon–Sat, 9:30am–12:30pm raft trips can be taken down

NEED TO KNOW adm: cloister €4.50 (under Les Alyscamps: av des

old squares on Tuesday, 240 metres

Thursday and Saturday

mornings. From the

Musée Granet the place des Prêcheurs PLACE DU (11 miles)

Housed in a former to the place de l’Hôtel de

priory, built in 1671, Ville, the streets come

16th to 19th centuries. and antiques. 1 5 6

NEED TO KNOW Oct–May: noon–6pm 10am–12:30pm & 1:30–

1 Cathédrale Cours Saleya

NEED TO KNOW 0 Quartier du Malonat

Cathédrale Ste-Réparate: pl Rossetti;

open 9am–noon & 2–6pm Tue–Fri;

9am–noon & 2–7:30pm Sat; 9am–1pm

& 3–6pm Sun (closed during Mass) E

Following pages Boats moored at Nice harbour

St-Tropez and the church of

NEED TO KNOW Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption: • Le Café on place des

6 Tour Suffren 8 Plages de

8 Port St Louis du Rhône

NEED TO KNOW Salin d’Aigues Mortes: times vary, check

2 Maison des Messii

Magnificent 15th-century frescoes in Notre-Dame des Fontaines, La Brigue

Grotte d’Observatoire in Monaco

Phocaea (modern Turkey), who had

TOP 10 FIGURES IN HISTORY

7 Union with France

8 Plague and War

VAUCLUSE Les Mées

A51 Tourtour D5 62 Grasse

La Couronne St-Antoine D56 0 Brignoles Fréjus

pillars, perhaps scavenged from

carvings commemorates Julius • Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–12:30pm &

Like other large Roman arenas in

Les Antiques de Glanum

Magnificent Pont du Gard, spanning the Gardon river

Frescoed interior of Notre-Dame des Fontaines

MAP G4 • 8 pl du Petit Puy • Open

6 Église des Saintes-

Riez Rougon Menton

La Ciotat Me dite r rane an

have sculpted the redandgold