1

Make Through System

It is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes right through one
garment at a time. The advantages and disadvantages of a make through system are
shown in Table 1.
The advantages of the Make Through The disadvantages of the Make Through System
System are: are:
1. Quick throughput time. 1. Low productivity.
2. Easy to supervise. 2. High labour cost.
3. Only very experienced operators can be
used.
4. It is a system only suitable in couture and
sample making.
Table 1 - Advantages and disadvantages of Make Through System.

Conventional Bundle System

With this system, sewing machines are arranged in lines. The work flows from the
central (store) area to the first machine, from the first machine back to the store, and
then on to the next machine, and so forth. A distributor stationed at the store is
responsible for receiving and dispatching the work. The work in progress is in the form
of bundles. These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a bag, or the garment
parts may be wrapped and tied. The conventional bundle system was widely used in
garment factories in Hong Kong during the 1950s. At that time, the level of managerial
skill was not as high as it is today. The system is still used in certain places where there
are frequent changes in garment style but a low level of managerial skill.

Figure 1 - A conventional bundle system.

GMP Handout 2005 - Manufacturing Systems Source: ApparelKey.com

 2

The Clump System

Another system that has the same characteristics as the conventional bundle system is
the 'clump' system as shown in Figure 2. In Figure 2, a worker collects a clump of
materials from the worktable and carries out the first operation. After he has completed
his part of the work, he returns it to the table. A worker for the second operation then
continues the work and so on. The process is ' collection - work - return' continues until
the whole garment has been assembled.

Figure 2 - Another example of a conventional bundle system - the

clump system.

The advantages and disadvantages of Conventional Bundle System

The advantages of the conventional bundle system The disadvantages of conventional bundle system
are: are:
1. It requires excessive handling of the materials
1. The system is flexible, as it can cope with
by the operators, as they have to carry their work
frequent style changes.
back to the central inventory.
2. Worker absenteeism does not cause any major
problems, as the controller can control the amount 2. It is difficult to control the inventory.
of work received and dispatched.
3. It is difficult to see the work in progress at the
3. The system is easy to operate and supervise.
various stages of manufacture.
4. This system may encourage individual workers
4. Engineering of work places is difficult because
to work faster, as they constantly have to return
machines are arranged in the limited capacity.
their own work to the central inventory.
5. It is easier to obtain a uniform level of quality, as
5. High level of work-in-progress.
the controller can check the quality control.
6. Large storage space is required to cope with the
large volume of work-in-progress.

GMP Handout 2005 - Manufacturing Systems Source: ApparelKey.com

 3

Progressive Bundle System

With the progressive bundle system, the sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties the bundle and passes it to the
next operator. Figure 3 shows a schematic view of the progressive bundle system.
There is usually a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the inter-process
work between each operation. The work is routed by means of tickets. Any imbalance
in production can be corrected by using utility workers. This system is the most widely
used system in the garment industry today. It is used in shirt factories, jeans factories,
jacket factories, etc.

Figure 3 - A progressive bundle system.

The advantages and disadvantages of Progressive Bundle System

The advantages of the progressive bundle system
The disadvantages of progressive bundle system are:
are:
1. High productivity. 1. Machine investment costs are highy.
2. The system is not very adaptable for short-run
2. A high level of labor utilization can be achieved. production and frequent style changes, as these
require rearrangement of the workstations.
3. A uniformly high standard of work can be 3. It involves high handling costs for bundle
achieved. handling and transportation.
4. It requires a high level of work in progress and
4. Training time and costs can be reduced.
therefore a high capital commitment.
5. It requires a high level of management skill to
5. Semi-skilled labor can be used. arrange the workflow and decide on the number of
operators for each operation.
6. Individual performance can be monitored and
incentives offered.

GMP Handout 2005 - Manufacturing Systems Source: ApparelKey.com

 4

Flexible Flow System

It is similar as the progressive bundle system, shown in Figure 4. The main feature of this system
is that a section of sewing operators, each with a supply of work in a rack at the side, work at an
engineered work place. The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work can be
planned using the correct number of operators in sequence. In Figure 4, two styles of garment are
being made at one time. For style A garments, the work distributed after operation 1 can be
distributed to the two operators performing operation 2. On Completion, the work from both
workers is then sent to operator 3. After operation 3, the work is continued by the two operators
performing operation 4 and so on. Style B progresses in more or less the same way.

One important point to notice is that when a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the
number of operators needed for each operation must be planned in detail to ensure a balanced
output. The number of operators for an operation should be proportionate to the time needed for
that operation. Detailed planning ensures that if the production run on a style is short, only a few
operators are allocated to that style.

Figure 4 - Flexible flow system.

The advantages and disadvantages of Flexible Flow System

The advantages of the flexible flow system are: The disadvantages of flexible flow system are:
1. Machine investment costs are less than
1. High productivity.
progressive bundle system.
2. The system is adaptable for short-run production
2. A high level of labor utilization can be achieved. and frequent style changes, as these do not require
rearrangement of the workstations.
3. A uniformly high standard of work can be 3. It involves high handling costs for bundle handling
achieved. and transportation.
4. It requires a high level of work in progress and
4. Semi-skilled labor can be used.
therefore a high capital commitment.
5. It requires a high level of management skill to
5. Individual performance can be monitored and
arrange the work flow and decide on the number of
incentives offered.
operators for each operations.

GMP Handout 2005 - Manufacturing Systems Source: ApparelKey.com

 5

Straight Line System

With this system, the manufacturing process is broken

down into several operations, which take the same time
to complete. Figure 5 shows an example of a straight-
line system. Groups of operators are required to handle
only individual garments. The garment parts (in trays)
pass from one operator to the next, until the garment has
been completely made up by one group of operators.
The central distribution unit may be a fixed table, which
must be wide enough for the type and style of garment
being assembled and long enough to accommodate the
required number of operations. Alternatively, the
distribution unit may be a conveyor belt, as shown in
Figure 5 when a moving conveyor belt is used, its speed
will be set to suit the cycle time.
The straight-line system is used where production
continues for six to eight weeks. In the garment industry,
examples of this system can be found in factories
Figure 5 - An making underwear, overalls, shirts, and certain classic
example of a straight garments.
line system.

The advantages and disadvantages of Straight Line System

The advantages of the straight line system are: The disadvantages of straight line system are:
1. The throughput time is fast and the work in
1. The system is not very flexible to style change.
progress is low.
2. Material handling time is low and there is no
2. Quality control can be difficult to achieve.
back tracking of material.
3. Absenteeism can cause problems, as the system
3. The space required for each operator is small.
is based on workers working within a time limit.
4. It does not require a great deal of technical 4. Machine breakdowns and worker absenteeism
supervision. or lateness may disrupt the workflow.
5. The opportunities to engineer work places are
5. Shading control can be improved.
limited and it is difficult to introduce specialization.
6. The system requires a high investment in
machinery, as it is necessary to duplicate several
different types of machines.
7. A high standard of work measurement is
necessary and high pre-production skills are
required.

GMP Handout 2005 - Manufacturing Systems Source: ApparelKey.com

 6

Synchro Flow System

Another system having similar characteristics to the straight-line system is the 'Synchro
flow' system, shown in Figure 6. With this system, garment parts of the same size and
color are processed separately. Different garment parts can be processed
simultaneously for assembling. You can see from Figure 6 that the main body of the
garment goes down a central line. At the seam time, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets,
etc., from other lines also go down a central line. The different garment parts are then
processed together to form completed garments.

Figure 6 - A synchro flow system.

The advantages and disadvantages of Synchro Flow System

The advantages of the synchro flow system are: The disadvantages of synchro flow system are:
1. Absenteeism can cause problems, as the
1. The throughput time is fast and the work in
system is based on workers working within a time
progress is low.
limit.
2. Material handling time is low and there is no 2. Machine breakdowns and worker absenteeism
back tracking of material. or lateness may disrupt the workflow.
3. A high standard of work measurement is
3. It does not require a great deal of technical
necessary and high pre-production skills are
supervision.
required.

GMP Handout 2005 - Manufacturing Systems Source: ApparelKey.com

 7

Unit Production System

A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line. It is a type of
line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual units from work-
station to work station for assembly. All the parts for a single garment are advanced
through the production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an
overhead conveyor. Production operations are completed without removing the parts
from the carrier. Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of
bundling, tying and untying, and manually moving garment parts. Electronic data can
be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and inventory data, immediate
tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt decision.

Figure 7 - Unit Production System using computerized selector

conveyors.
Source: A.J. Chuter, Introduction to clothing production management, 1995

The advantages and disadvantages of Unit Production System

The advantages of the unit production system are: The disadvantages of unit production system are:
1. The system is very flexible and complied with
1. Investment of the system is high.
work meansurement.
2. A central place may be needed for quality
2. The system has little work-in-progress.
control.
3. Small orders are not economical for using this
3. Fast through put time can be achieved because
system because high preparation works is needed
of the lower WIP of the system.
for plant layout and line balancing.
4. Low WIP leads to space saving.
5. Application of Eton system reduces the handling
time.
6. High quality of garments can be made.

GMP Handout 2005 - Manufacturing Systems Source: ApparelKey.com

 8

Modular Manufacturing System

Modular manufacturing groups operators into teams, or modules. The team works on
one/a few garment at a time instead of a bundle of garments. The operators stand /sit
at their stations and rotate to different machines as they work, becoming familiar with
multiple steps in producing the garment. They also inspect their team's own work,
catching and correcting mistakes as soon as they happen. Early experiments with
modular manufacturing show that, besides inspiring teamwork and improving morale, it
also enhances quality and reduces worker turnover. To make a garment using modular
manufacturing or the unit production, the through put time is reduced of producing a
garment.

Figure 8 - Modular Manufacturing System.

The advantages and disadvantages of Modular Manufacturing System

The advantages of the modular manufacturing The disadvantages of modular manufacturing
system are: system are:
1. One operator can handle more than one task. 1. Multi skillful and very skillful labors are needed.
2. The system is very flexible and permits better 2. Success of the system needs highly cooperation
line balancing. of the team.
3. Fast through put time, lower WIP, small batch
size can be achieved.
4. Less floor space is required.
5. More teamwork spirit is allowed, which creates a
healthier working environment and improves
quality.
6. Since the system is more quick response to the
fashion change, which helps to develop fashion
garment capability.

GMP Handout 2005 - Manufacturing Systems Source: ApparelKey.com