SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY

Department of Textile Engineering

PROJECT
Course Code: Tex -4034

Project on:
Comparative Analysis for Manufacturing
A Fully Fashioned Sweater

Supervised By
Minhaz Ahmed
Lecturer
Dept. of Textile Engineering

Prepared by
Md. Azharuddin Pradhan
ID:2011200400090
Batch: 18th(Garments Manufacturing Technology)
Department of Textile Engineering

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―Letter Of Transmittal‖

11 May 2016

Minhaz Ahmed

Lecturer

Department of Textile Engineering

Southeast University.

Subject: Submission of Project Report.

Dear Sir,

I am pleased to submit my ―Project Report‖ This is submitted under the program of

B.Sc in Textile Engineering in Southeast University.

The Report has been completed in accordance with the knowledge that I have
gather during y Industrial Training and the guidelines received from our honorable
teachers and our group members.

I have done this field work in ―Zon-Ron Sweaters Ltd.‖. However, we will always
be ready to provide any further clarification that you may require.

Yours Sincerely:

Md. Azharuddin Pradhan ID: 2011200400090

Batch: 18th, Advance: GMT

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 “ACKNOLEDGEMENT”

All the praises are for the almighty, Allah who bestowed us with the ability and
potential to complete this Internship. I also pay my gratitude to the Almighty for
enabling me to complete this Internship Report within due course of time.

Words are very few to express enormous humble obligations to my affectionate

Parents for their prayers and strong determination to enabling us to achieve it.

To whom I am extremely indebted for his tremendous support & guidance

throughout our training period. Special thanks to our supervising teacher ―Minhaz
Ahmed‖, without his help it would not have been possible to complete this project.
On my whole way I am also like to express our gratitude to Prof. Syed Fakhrul
Hassan, Chairman Department of Textile Engineering Southeast University.

I would like to thank the management of the ―Zon-Ron Sweaters Ltd.‖. for giving
me the opportunity to complete the Project successfully and also for their valuable
suggestion. I would also like to thank specially our senior brothers seniors of my
university whom are working in the ―Zon-Ron Sweaters Ltd.‖ for helping me
practically & for showing me the right path. I am greatly indebted to them. I also
want to thank executives, senior executives and other official’s employee of ―Zon-
Ron Sweaters Ltd.‖. for helping me to complete Project successfully. My gratitude
also goes to all the employees of ―Zon-Ron Sweaters Ltd‖ For their sincere co-
operation, support and valuable advices.

From this Project I am learning so many terms in apparel industries. This will be so
helpful in our job life.

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 ABSTRACT

A successful attempt towards my project was grown when I was decided to do all thing
for Comparative Analysis For Manufacturing A Fully Fashioned Sweater. All the basic
Yarn/Thread Consumption, Production Timing, Wastage %, Thread Type, Design Panel
(How Made?),Linking Type ,Main Obstacle ,Product Pricing (Cm Cost),Thread
Matching , if one starts his job finding out difference between some same sort of things
whether it is in textile or other sector he must face something wrong or he cannot reach
the goal. So, for maintaining valuable time we need to get followed by an authentic way
which will be efficient also to develop something.

In this report I showed Production Flow Chart of Sweater Manufacturing and

Comparative Analysis, Costing etc.

Hope this project will be helpful for Comparative Analysis For Manufacturing A Fully
Fashioned Sweater.

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Declaration:
I hereby declare that, this work has been done by Md. Azharuddin Pradhan under the supervision
of Minhaz Ahmed, Lecturer of Southeast University

We also declare that neither this project nor any part of this attachment has been

Submitted elsewhere for award of any degree or diploma.

Objective for this project:

 Analysis Production Manufacturing Process ;

 To Analysis For Manufacturing A Fully Fashioned Sweater Yarn/Thread Consumption, Thread

Type etc,;

 To know knitting type for Fully Automatic Flat Knitting M/c And Flat Knitting M/c

 Total Design Panel (How Made?) ,Wastage %, Linking Type ;

 To analysis the Product Pricing (CM Cost);

 To Know Calculation of Costing ;

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 Table of content
Serial Title Page no.

1 Introduction 7

2 Production Process of Sweater Manufacturing 9-13

3 Comparative Analysis 14
4 The Basic Requirements 15
5 Knitting Types, Composition , Count, GG 16
6 Automatic Flat Knitting M/c (Jacquard)
7 Knitting Type 16
8 Yarn Required , Costing, 17
9 Flat Knitting M/c (Manual)
10 Yarn Required , Costing 18-19
11 Discussion 20
12 Conclusion 20

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 DEDICATION

To all those who have supported, encouraged, challenged, and inspired us. And
specially to our Beloved Parents, honorable teachers and friends for all their
guidance, love & attention which has made it possible for us to make it up to this
point and as well as the Internship Supervisors who bestowed us with the courage,
the commitment and the awareness to follow the best possible route, by their
unmatchable style and by best possible training.

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 INTRODUCTION
Sweater is one type of knitted fabric. This type of fabric has huge demand in cold weather
country. So its international market increases day by day. Famous apparel buyers import such
type of knitted fabric abundantly. In Bangladesh it’s future is bright. For helping purpose I’m
writing this article for students and beginners who are entering into sweater manufacturing
industry. Its manufacturing process is similar as knitting. At the initial stage, need to develop lab-
dip first as per buyer’s requirement. Buyer may provide swatch or pantone number. Then
different types of yarn have been brought from local and international yarn manufacturer, and the
accessories are collected from backyard-linkage industries of local and foreign origin according
to buyer requirement. At the next step, raw package of yarns are rolled up for giving those
suitable revolving shape and sent those to Yarn Distribution (YD) section, where every spin of
yarns has been properly weighted, and specific amount of spindled yarn has been allocated to the
Knitting section.
Every part of sweater is knitted in the knitting section and passed them off First Inspection to get
those checked whether each part is properly knitted or not, and to get confirmed if any yarn is
wasted. After First Inspection, each part of the sweaters is linked up in the linking section and
thoroughly checked in the Second Inspection and then to light checking with a view to ensuring
if any whole is present in the sweater.
Accurate measurement is tested in the Third Inspection; if it is found up to the standard, the
sweaters are passed through the labeling section, where neck, care and size label are attached.
Steam ironing is performed after labeling and sent them in the quality control section, where
each part of sweater is checked carefully, thus if the sweaters are found not up to the standard,
they are sent back to the Third Inspection section for mending the loopholes. Whole process of
knitting is being examined at final inspection section, and passed them for packing or folding.
After packaging, whole lots are transferred into the warehouse and keep them standby for for
shipment.

Fully fashioning is a process of shaping a knitted structure by increasing or decreasing the

number of needles or Wales where the individual pieces are more engineered so that each
garment piece is made with no extra fabric and the pieces are basically knitted together at the
seams. In this case each piece is shaped using techniques specific to knitwear by using special
stitches, making lines of loops shrink and grow depending on where more length is needed and
where not. When you knit by hand this is essentially the process that you are doing although in
commercial production it would be done by knitting machines. Example- Sweater, Pullover,
Cardigan etc.

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Raw Material:
Yarn is the main raw material of sweater manufacturing. Yarns are thread which is
manufactured from fiber. Based on different types of fiber, yarns used in sweater production
which can be of different types such as pure acrylic, cotton, wool etc & also can be different
variation such as acrylic mélange, blended acrylic, mixed wool, mixed cotton, chenille, popcorn,
angora, cashmere, tape yarn and many more.

Production Flow Chart of Sweater Manufacturing:-

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Winding:
Winding is first process of a sweater manufacturing. This process is used to winding and coning
the yarns by using winding machine. In this section, at first winding operator open the yarn bales
which are collected from the store room. The loose loops of yarns then fitted with the ring of the
winding machine and the winding operator stars coning. Generally sweater manufacturing
industry receives yarn in hank shape from the textile mills. By using hank form of yarn it’s not
possible to make the sweater directly. That’s why it requires transformation of yarns into cone
form. But in some cases- especially in case of cotton yarn, the sweater factory can purchase in
cone form from the supplier.

Yarn Cone Distribution:

After coning the yarns a distributor distributes yarn cone to the knitting operator as per
requirement. Normally the distributor is used that quantity of yarn to knit one dozen of sweater
to one knit operator. A garment operator has to knit the whole garment piece by piece and the
piece are called panel. The panels are front panel, back panel and sleeve panel. After knitting the
different panel the distributor collects the panel from the operator to distribute it for the next
action.

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Knitting Section:
There are different types of techniques to knit a sweater. Knitting operators knit the sweater
according to design chart which is developed by the designer. A designer can make the design or
developing by the design chart as given by the buyer. It is to be mentioned that, in sweater
production no cutting and sewing is required in any stage of manufacturing.

Pattern or garments structure of sweater is being developed by increasing or decreasing the

number of Wales. In this section, different kinds of knitting machine can be used, such as hand
driven and power driven machine. In Bangladesh hand driven flat bed knitting machines are
widely used. Knit machine can be again classified into different type’s gauges of needles. In
sweater production normally 1G, 3G, 5G, 7G, 9G, 10G, 12G machines are used. To manufacture
heavy weight sweater 1.5G to7G machine and for light weight sweater 10G to 12G machines are
used. By hand driven knitting machine we can produce sweater of limited design. On the other
hand, by using power driven knitting machine, we can produce sweater of unlimited design such
as fancy sweater, jacket sweater, pullover and cardigan.

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Knitting Panel Inspection:
This is the process to check the different knitted panel. After knitting the different pieces of
sweater, the knitting inspectors check the quality of knitted fabric on the basis of some criteria.
These are- checking panel measurement, test the knitting tension, identification of
knitting mistake, style check, design check, spot check, foreign yarn mistake check etc. After
passing this inspection section, the knitted panels are sent to the linking section.

Linking Section:
The working procedure of this section is to link the different panels to produce a complete
sweater. In this section, linking operator links the different panels by using linking machine
which is popularly known as dial linking machine. The Dial linking machine can be of different
gauges such as 5G, 6G, 8G, 14G and 16G etc.

Trimming Section:
At this stage extra threads are removed or inserted into the body panel. Then the garments are
sent to light check inspection section for proper checking.

Light Check Inspection:

In this process sweaters are checked by using cylindrical shaped inspection kits & there is a
filter light inside the cylinder. There are two types of light stands for inspection. One is used to
inspect the sleeve panel & another one is used to inspect the body panel. If an inspector found
any defect such as hole or laddering in the panel, he/she marks this by using different color
thread and then transfers it to mending section for mending or repairing.

Mending Section:
In this process, there are different operators for mending or repairing the defective sweater. This
is a manual process which is done by using needles and yarns.

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Washing & Drying Section:
The working procedure of this section is to wash the sweaters & remove water by hydro-
extracting. Sweaters are washable garments. Because most of the yarns except of few like
Tennille pure cashmere, pure angora etc. wet finishing are preferred. Detergent, oxalic acid and
some chemicals are used to wash the garments & sometimes softener is used to increase the hand
feeling of the garments. Duration of washing time depends on material, quality and thickness of
the garment. After washing, washed garment are kept into the hydro-extractor to remove water.
After removing the water the garments are transferred to the dryer for drying. Drying time
depends on material quality. To dry acrylic type garments, it takes 20-25 minutes & for cotton
type garments, it takes 55-60 minutes for drying.

Pressing/Ironing Section:
The objective of sweater ironing is to give permanent shape of the garments and to improve
aesthetic value of the garment. It requires heavy stress for sweater pressing.

Finishing Section:
At this stage labeling, price tag attaching, folding, primary packaging, secondary packaging,
final packaging, metal detecting and final inspection are done as per buyer requirement. Finally
goods are ready for export.

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 Comparative Analysis
Manual Automatic
Item Name MB-509 Item Name MB-509

Figure Figure

Yarn/Thread  100% Acrylic Yarn/Thread  100%Acrylic

Consumption (Opt-1) Consumption (Opt-1)
 100%Cotton  100%Cotton
(Opt-2) (Opt-2)

Production 8 pc production per 60 Minute

Timing m/c per day Production
Timing

For cotton & acrylic For cotton &

Wastage % is 5% to 7% Wastage % acrylic is 6% to8%
100% Acrylic 100% Acrylic
Thread Type 100% Cotton Thread Type 100% Cotton

Linking Type Operators Link/Join Linking Type Operators Link/Join

Different Parts Different Parts
Main Obstacle Time Main Obstacle Time
Resources Resources
Correct targets Correct
targets
Resistance
Resistance
Follow through
Follow
through

Product Pricing TOTAL CM Product TOTAL CM

(Cm Cost) COST=$40.72 Pricing (Cm COST:$53.00
Cost)

Thread Pure Acrylic Thread Pure Acrylic

Matching Pure Cotton Matching Pure Cotton

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The Basic Requirements-
 Knowledge about gauges—4G, 5G, 7G ,12G etc.
 Knowledge about material/yarn—100% acrylic
 Weight of the garments—7.43lbs/dzn(100% Acrylic) and 9.31lbs/dzn(100% Cotton)
 Understanding styling and designing.
 Knowledge about different gauge.
 Mode of business term (FOB, CFR, CIF, etc).
 Mode of Payments (L/C type and payments term).
 Nature of business (Factory or buying house).

Wastage Mainly 6% to 8%:

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Knitting Types
Knitting is a process of fabric manufacturing by converting yarn into loop form and then these
loops interlock/inter-mesh/interloped together which form a structure is called knitting.

 Fully Automatic Flat Knitting M/c (Jacquard)

 Flat Knitting M/c (Manual)

Composition
 100% Acrylic

 100% Cotton

Count & Gage :

 2/32 & 12G

Yarn Market price

100% Acrylic

 1lbs = $1.40 so 7.43lbs = $10.40 AND 6.88LBS=$9.63

100% Cotton

 1lbs = $2.15 so 9.31lbs = $20 & 8.80LBS=$18.92

Automatic Flat Knitting M/c (Jacquard)

Knitting type - Automatic flat knitting
 Knitting timing 50 M but with 15% extra 57.5 M or 60 M

 Per day working houres-10hr

 Per day production per m/c -10pc

 Running m/c 400

 Per day production 4000pcs

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 Yarn Required
 Yarn Required for per dozen sweaters 6.75 lbs. that’s means with 10% extra 7.43 lbs.
(100% Acrylic)

 Yarn Required for per dozen sweaters 8.46 lbs. that’s means with 10% extra 9.31 lbs.
(100% Cotton)

Costing:
Yarn price-
 1lbs = $1.40 so 7.43lbs = $10.40-----100% Acrylic
 1lbs = $2.15 so 9.31lbs = $20----100% Cotton
 Accessories cost - $1 /dzn
 Test cost - $1

Knitting Cost-
 Timing -53min =$31.80

So, 58x.05x12= $31.80( auto m/c cost per pc per minute $.05)

 Overhead +Linking+Triming+Mending+Finshining =$21

So we can Saied that total cost of making(CM)=$52.80 or $53

CM Cost:
 Cost of making total - $53.00

FOR 100% Acrylic

Total cost= Yarn + Accessories+ Test+ CM

=$10.40+$3+$1+$53

=$67.40

With Govt. 7% commission = $72.2

FOB Price/pcs=$6.02

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FOR 100% Cotton
Total cost= Yarn + Accessories+ Test+ CM =$20+$3+$1+$53 =$77

With Govt. 7% commission = $82.40

FOB Price/pcs=$6.9

Flat Knitting M/c (Manual)

 Knitting Process – Manual

 Knitting Cost Per M/C Per Day 400tk

 Per day production per m/c 8 pc

 Running m/c 1100

 Per day production 8,800 pcs

Costing
 Knitting cost = 400tk per m/c

Per day production 8 pcs per m/c so per pcs knitting cost=50tk

 Linking cost = 20tk/pcs

 Trimming cost = 10tk/pcs

 Mending cost = 10tk/pcs

 Production Bonus = 30%

 Finishing cost = $7 /doze ( sewing ,washing , ironing,PQC, packing etc. )

CM COST=(KNITTING+LINKING+TRIMING+MENDING+PRODUCTION
BONUSE+FINISHING+OVERHEAD)

 KNITTING+LINKING+TRIMING+MENDING+PRODUCTION
BONUSE=(50+20+10+10+30%)TK=117TK

=1404TK/DOZ

=$18.72($1=75TK)

SO, $18.72+$7+$15=$40.72/DOZ

 TOTAL CM COST=$40.72

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 Yarn price
 100% Acrylic

 1lbs = $1.40 so 6.88LBS=$9.63

 100% Cotton

 1lbs = $2.15 so 8.80LBS=$18.92

FOR 100% Acrylic

Total cost= Yarn + Accessories + Print+ Test+ CM

=$9.63+$3+$6+$1+$40.72

=$60.35

With Govt. 7% commission = $64.6

FOB Price/pcs=$5.4

FOR 100% Cotton

Total cost= Yarn + Accessories+ Print + Test+ CM

=$18.92+$3+$6+$1+$40.72

=$69.64

With Govt. 7% commission = $74.5

FOB Price/pcs=$6.21

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 Discussion
 Auto m/c per day production up to 25 to 30pcs/day but here only 10 pcs/day. For that in factory
more production losses.

 Cost is less in manual from automatic m/c .

 As like for 100% acrylic FOB cost for manual =$5.4 & Automatic =$6.21,

 so I hope Flat bed m/c is much batter for this style From Automatic M/c

 Per day production 8,800pcs in Flat bed knitting m/c

 Per day production 4000pcs Automatic knitting m/c

Conclusion
Finally we have completed our thesis after lots of inspection, experiment & discussion. We have
gathered a large experience about this project. I have increased my knowledge about
Comparative Analysis for Manufacturing a Fully Fashioned Sweater. After all this Analysis we
can Saied that for manufacturing this fully fashioned sweater Fully Automatic Flat Knitting M/c
(Jacquard) is more costly and more time needed and production hampering is done by that so
Flat Knitting M/c (Manual) is much batter .

END

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