Industrial Report Final

BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF
TEXTILES
REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT

AT
KNIT CONCERN Ltd.

(FROM 16th May TO 10th July)
SUBMITTED TO
SUPERVISING TEACHER
Md. Ahashan Habib

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING MANAGEMENT
BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF TEXTILES
SUBMITTED BY
Student Name ID
S.M. Rashadur Rahaman Setu 2011-01-006
Md. Abdul Baten 2011-01-053
Md. Helal Hossain 2011-01-066
Md. Nafiz Omar 2010-01-191
1|Page
Acknowledgement
At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah to give me strength and ability to complete the industrial training
and this report. May your name be exalted, honoured and glorified.
Industrial Attachment Course is an academic function of the Bangladesh University of Textiles. We are highly
delighted to express our regards & gratitude to our honourable vice chancellor Prof. Engineer Masud Ahmed
for providing us the chance to complete our Industrial Attachment in Knit Concern Ltd.
Special thanks to our supervising teacher Md. Ahashan Habib to whom we are extremely indebted for her
tremendous support and guidance throughout our training period, without whose help it would not have been
possible to complete the training successfully.
Special thanks also to our dean (Faculty of textile management & business studies) Prof. Md. Monirul Islam
and our departmental head (Textile engineering Management) Md. Ahashan Habib for his support & help.
We also take the opportunity to express our sincerest gratitude to the management, administration & personnel
of Knit Concern Ltd. for their kind assistance. Heartfelt thanks goes to Engr. A. K. M Mohsin Ahmed,
General Manager, Knit Dyeing, Knit Concern Ltd. and Mr. Khalid Masud Ahmed Khan, CEO & GM,
Yarn dyeing, Knit Concern ltd. for their permission & excellent cooperation during the period of our training.
We would also like to thank Mr. Md. Rakibul Hassan for their sincere support. The generous support is
greatly appreciated. I would also like to thank Production Officers, Senior Production Officer and other
officials of Knit Concern Ltd. for helping me to complete industrial training successfully. My gratitude also
goes to all the employees of Knit Concern Ltd. for their sincere co-operation, support and valuable advices.
Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our university & particularly of Wet
Process Department for their kind inspiration & help, which remain as the backdrop of all our efforts.
Finally, we would like to acknowledge that we remain responsible for the inadequacies & errors, which doubtless
remain in the following report.
2|Page
Contents
Chapter Topics Page no.
1 Introduction 04-05
2 Company Profile 06-13
3 Manpower Management 14-19
4 Different Sections 20-21
5 Grey Fabric Inspection 22-26
6 Batch Section 27-29
7 Chemicals 30-33
8 Dyeing Lab 34-41
9 Dyeing Production 42-61
10 Finishing
Open Finishing
62-76
Tubular Finishing
Special Finishing
11 Yarn Dyeing 77-84
12 All Over Printing 85-91
13 Quality Control Lab 92-101
14 Washing 102-109
15 Knitting 110-115
16 Garments 116-136
16 Final Inspection 137-138
17 Utility 139-144
18 Maintenance Section 145-150
19 Stores & Inventory Control 151-152
20 Cost Analysis 153-154
21 Conclusion 155-156
3|Page
Chapter 1
Introduction
4|Page
The word “textile” originally applied only to woven fabrics, now generally applied to fibres, yarns, or products
made of fibres, yarns, or fabrics. The term textile originates from the Latin verb texere, meaning
“to weave”. It has, however, come to include fabrics produced by other methods. Thus, threads, cords, ropes,
braids, lace, embroidery, nets, and fabrics made by weaving, knitting, bonding, felting, or tufting are textiles.
Some definitions of the term textile would also include those products obtained by the papermaking principle
that have many of the properties associated with conventional fabrics. In addition to clothing and home
furnishings, textiles are used for such industrial products as filters to air conditioners, life rafts, conveyor
belts, tents, automobile tires, swimming pools, safety helmets and mine ventilators.
At KNIT CONCERN LTD., cutting-edge technologies merge seamlessly with human ingenuity and deep seat
recommitment to ensure excellence in every stage and area of their activities. From fibre to fabric, KNIT
CONCERN LTD is truly integrated undertaking. The KNIT CONCERN LTD. has the capability to offer a
complete product range for the export textile markets. The goal of KNIT CONCERN LTD. is to become the
preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from Bangladesh With highly advanced
technology and an emphasis on developing local human resources. KNIT CONCERN LTD has the potential
to make an important contribution to the nation's growing ready-made garments export sector.
5|Page
Chapter 2
Company Profile
6|Page
Company profile
Knit Concern Ltd. (KCL) is a knit composite factory. It has Knitting, Dyeing, Finishing, and Garments
manufacturing department. It is located at Godnail, Narayanganj, around 9-kms north side of Dhaka Chittagong
Highway and free from all kinds of pollution, crowd like mid-city. The project was established in 1998. The
project is equipped with modern technology machinery and experienced technicians are engaged here to ensure
the quality and buyers‟ satisfaction. They can produce international standard fabric and garments of ant
quantity and quality. Since its inception, Knit Concern has never stopped growing - in quality, quantity, and
everything in between. Over the last couple of years, conceding to its growth requirement, using most
contemporary machines and equipment of German, Swiss, USA, Japan, Italy, China and UK origin, it has
nearly doubled its capacity.
In details:
Name of factory: Knit Concern Limited
Type: 100 % Export Oriented Composite knitwear Industry

Year of Establishment: 1998
Status (Legal Structure): Private Limited Company
Vision:
The vision of Knit Concern Group is to emerge as a premier
manufacturer and exporter of knitwear in the world market.
7|Page
Mission:
The broad mission of Knit Concern Group is to provide
its customers the best possible satisfaction and value
for their money facilitating them with one -stop
Knitwear sourcing services.
Location of Knit Concern Ltd:
Google Maps View of Knit Concern Group
Satellite View of Knit Concern Group
8|Page
Layout Plan
9|Page
Bar chart:
Annual Turnover
Different Departments:
Production Oriented Department:
 Yarn store
 Planning & Control
 Batching
 Chemical store
 Winding section
 Dyeing Section
 Finishing Section
 Dyeing lab section
 Wet lab
 Quality Control
 Maintenance
 Utility
 Water treatment plant
 Effluent treatment plant
Supporting department:
 Procurement
 Merchandising
 Marketing
 IT
 HRD
 Finance & accounting
 Medical
 Personnel Administration
 Security
10 | P a g e
Other Facilities:
Staff canteen
The canteen is capable of accommodating about 250 persons at a time. Mosque
The mosque is capable of accommodating about 500 persons at a time.

Medical
Available Facilities with a Air Conditioned Ambulance.
Lighting:
Sufficient lighting arrangement is there with proper lighting shade fixed along with overhead
channel. Cleanness:
The factory premise are kept clean, removing the dirt & refuges, cleaners sweep the floor at regular interval,effective
arrangement are made to dispose off the waste to the nearby dustbin.
Water:
Sufficient water is supplied from in house deep-tube-well to all production lines including toilet. Moreover, each
floor provided with tank for portable water.
Salary & Wages:
a. Salary and wages are paid to the staff and workers as per gazette notification of the government of Bangladesh.
b. Payment of salary and wages are made regularly by 5th - 7th of each month.
c. In the salary sheet basic salary, house rent, medical allowance and gross salary are shown separately for each
employee.
Major Buyers:
11 | P a g e
Certificates:
12 | P a g e
Chapter 3
Manpower Management
13 | P a g e
Management system:
 Buyer sample is send to G.M.

 Matching is done by lab in charge.
 Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing master.
 Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
 Approved sample is returned and taken as standard. Sample for bulk production.
 Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer.
 Then production officer, with the supervisors start bulk production.
 On line and off line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. dyeing master.
 After dyeing finishing in charge controls the finishing process with the supervision of production officer.
 After finishing, the material is checked by asst. dyeing master.
 Finally G.M. checks the result with asst. dyeing master and decision is taken for delivery.
Shift Change:
Two shifts (day and night): each of 12 hrs Day
shift: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Night shift: 8 p.m. to 8 a.m.
RESPONSIBILITIES OF PRODUCTION OFFICER:
 To give dyeing program slip.

 To match production sample with target shade.
 To collect production sample for sample matching nest production.
 To observe dyed fabric during finishing running & also after finishing.
 To identify disputed fabrics & report to production manager for necessary action.
 To discuss with production manager about overall production if necessary.
 To sign the store requisition.
 Also to execute overall floor works.
 To maintain loading / unloading Schedule.
DESCRIPTION OF WORK OF A PRODUCTION OFFICER:
Report to : Sr. production officer

Job Summary: To plan, execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality.
DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES:
 Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production.

 Batch preparation & pH check.
 Dyes & chemical requisition issue & check.
 Write fabrics loading & unloading time from m/c.
 Program making, sample checking, color measurement.
 Control the supervisors, operators‟ asst. operator & helpers of dyeing m/c.
 And also any other work as & when required by the management.
14 | P a g e
Manpower List (Dyeing Department)
No. Section Person
01 GM 01
02 DM 01
03 DDM 01
04 SPO 01
05 P.O 08
06 Planning 02
07 Q.C / Q.I 86
08 Maintenance 71
09 Batch 75
10 Dyeing 149
11 Finishing 139
12 Store 26
13 Delivery 29
14 Washing 26
15 Accounts 03
16 Marketing 02
17 Store (Acc) 02
18 Ex.Of./'Time 04
19 Pion 04
Total 650
15 | P a g e
16 | P a g e
17 | P a g e
18 | P a g e
Chapter 4
Different Sections
19 | P a g e
Different Sections: (according to flow of operation)
Knitted fabric from Knitting
Grey Fabric Inspection Section
Batch Section
Dyeing Laboratory
Dyeing Floor
Finishing Section
Quality Checking
Dispatch/ Delivery Section
Supporting sections:
 Planning
 Chemical store
 Utilities Sections – water, power, boiler, compressor, waste water management system.
 Maintenance Section
20 | P a g e
Chapter 5
Grey Fabric Inspection
21 | P a g e
Inspection of Grey Fabric from knitting section to Dyeing:
Objective:
 To find out any kinds of faults in the grey fabric before dyeing operation by thorough checking up.
 To ensure maximum quality assurance by double checking.
Checking flow-chart:
Knitted fabric (checked in knitting section)
Grey fabric inspection Section for checking by dyeing dept.
Checking
Ok Not ok
To storage/ batch section Recheck
Dyeing If not ok, Rejection
Faults of grey fabric:
Fault name Causes Remedies Image
# Yarn breakage or yarn #Yarn strength must

cracks. be sufficient to
# If the yarn count is not withstand the stretch
correct on regarding as well as uniform.
1. Hole Mark structure, gauge, course #Use proper count of
and density. yarn.
# Badly knot or splicing. #Correctly set of yarn
# Yarn feeder badly set. feeder.
# If yarn tension too high #Knot should be given
properly
# When a needle breaks

down. # Needle should be
# If a needle or needle straight as well as from
hook is slightly bends . # If broken latch.
2. Needle
needle does not catch yarn
Mark
22 | P a g e
# Yarn tension variation #Maintain same Yarn
during production. # tension during
Buckling of the needle production. # Use
3. Star Mark: latch. good conditioned
# Low G.S.M fabric needles.
production
# Defective needle. #Needle should be

# If yarn is not properly fed straight & well.
during loop formation # Proper feeding of
4. Drop i.e. not properly laid on to yarn during loop
Stitches the needle hook. formation.
# Take-down mechanism # Correct take up of
too loose. the fabric & correct
# Insufficient yarn tension. fabric tension.
# Use of irregular yarn # remove irregular

having higher long term yarn
5.Bariness irregularities. # use proper yarn
# Using different count count
thread. #we can use it for
white fabric
# If needle latch is hard or #clean or change the

6.Loop curve. needle.
# if yarn tension is loose . # set proper yarn
tension
7. Lycra out Cause by If lycra is missed Check the feeder and

or Lycra attach with the attatch laycra.
yarn
# if needle latch is not Make sure all the

8. Seat up work properly/jaum # latches of needle are
(cloth Causes by thick yarn closed with feeding
fallout) # Improper/large knot yarn after a drop
stitch.
23 | P a g e
# Excessive oil flow in the #Ensure that oil does
9. Oil mark needle not pass on the fabrics.
# Leakage of oil line # Well maintenance as
well as proper oiling.
In knitting section too #Blowing air for

much lint is flying to and cleaning and different
fro that are created from parts after a certain
yarn due to low twist as period of time.
10. Fly well as yarn friction. This # By cleaning the floor
lint may adhere or continuously. # By
attaches to the fabric using ducting system
surface tightly during knit for cleaning too much
fabric production. lint in the floor.
# Over all ensure that
lint does not attach to
the fabric
11.Yarn # If yarn contains foreign # By avoiding lot,

contamination fiber then it remains in the count mixing.
fabric even after finishing, # Fault less spinning.
# If lot, count mixing
occurs
# When sinker corrode due

to abrasion then Sinker should be
sometimes cannot hold a changed
12.Sinker
new loop as a result sinker
Mark
mark comes.
# If sinker head bend then
sinker mark comes
24 | P a g e
Inspection Machine Specification:
UZU machine for garment
Width: 69 & 100 inch
No of m/c: large – 3, small – 6
Power supply required: 200 volt 50/60 Hz
Motor- 1 hp.
Efficiency – 75%
Brand Name: UZU
Model: HC-TIM -1500 mm
Country of Origin: Thailand
No of motor: 02
Motor: 210 HP
Power: 220 V
Inspected Fabric Storage Section:
- Two storied storage sections with racks of multistoried rails.

- Total capacity – approx. 250 tons
- Storage fabrics are sorted and separated under following parameters-Buyer, order no, Color, Count, Brand,
Yarn lot, Fabric Dia & GSM.
The grade is given by 4- point system:
4- Point System Acceptance Calculation

0-3 1 < 20 =A grade fabric
>3-6 2 20-30= B grade fabric
>6-9 3 30< = unacceptable fabric
>9 4
Hole<1 2
Hole>1 4
Total point =
Checking Standard:
Varies depending on buyers‟ requirements.
- For H&M – 4 point system is followed.
- For others – 10 point system is followed.
25 | P a g e
Chapter 6
Batch Section
26 | P a g e
Batching:
Batching is done before Dyeing according to the requirements, dyeing machine capacity,
urgency of order etc. There are two main types of batching. They are:
• Assort Batch (contains all body parts of the garments)
• Solid Batch (contains single body pats-only body/only cuff/only
collar etc.)
In Kit Concern Ltd. ASSORT BATCHING system is followed.
Assort Batch:
Batching procedure of body and rib:
Diameter 22” 24” 26” 28” 30” 1*1rib
Dia 350 680 410 550 380 180

quantity(Kg)
Suppose, a 550Kg batch has to be made.
Formula:
Total Quantity: (350+680+410+550+380+180)kg

=2550 kg
For 22” : =75kg
For 24” : =147Kg
For 26” : 88kg
For 28” : =119kg
For 30” : =82kg
For 1*1 rib: =39kg
Total =550 kg
This is how ASSORT BATCHING is done.
27 | P a g e
Solid batch:
In case of solid batch we can take any quantity from any dia. But total rib has to be taken.
Suppose this time, a 310kg batch has to be made. Here, we have to calculate Rib quantity first.
For 1*1 rib: =22kg.
So, total body quantity= (310-22) kg= 288kg

22kg rib has to be taken and remaining 288kg body quantity can be taken from any dia.
For 22” : =42.55kg
For 24” : Kg
For 26” : 47kg
For 28” : =78kg
For 30” : =49kg
Other machines in Batching Section:

• Bag swing machine:
Manufacturer: MTG Mechanica Snc

Model: CCM 220
Serial no: C07067
Year of construction: 2007
Workable diameter: 32´´-80´´
Origin: Italy
• Turning machine:
1. KDT 03
Brand name: PUGI
Model: P-RP/F
Origin: Italy
2. KDT 05
Brand name: HSING CHENG
Model: HC-TFM
Origin: Thailand
3. KDT 02
Origin: Italy
28 | P a g e
Chapter 7
Chemicals
29 | P a g e
List of chemicals:
Name of agent Serial Name of chemicals Name of company

no
Antifoam 1 Kappa sol AF-2000 Kapp Chemie GHBH
2 Albafow FFC Huntsman Singapore
Anticreasing 3 Creavent X1-H Denimist
4 Kappavon AC 65 Kappa Chemie GMBH
5 Starfluid HF HC Startech Chemical
6 Argalube NF Shanghai Xietong (Argus)
7 DP-120 Shanghai Xietong (Argus)
8 Kappavon FCB Kapp Chemie GMBH
Detergent/ wetting 9 Kappawet BOS Kapp Chemie GMBH
agent 10 Argaprep LFD Shanghai Xietong (Argus)
11 Starclean ZF Liq. Startech Chemical
12 Fabrevol KNN Conc Denimist
Oil Remover 13 Gresaw Turbo Denimist
14 Lanaryl RK Benovolent Textile Services
Sequestering 15 Agraquest ARSK Shanghai Xietong (Argus)
16 Starquest SD-97 Startech Chemical
17 Chelion BDW Veskim Kimyeve
Stabilizer 18 Argaprep CBS Shanghai Xietong (Argus)
19 Starstab EX-3 Startech Chemical
20 Equasec STA Veskim Kimyeve
Enzyme 21 Unizyme 1000L Shanghai Youtell
22 Mega P-800 Peli-Bio Chem Technology
Peroxide killer 23 Oxilost P Veskim Kimyeve
Levelling 24 Albatex -DBC Huntsman Singapore
Soaping Agent 25 Kappakom E12 Kapp Chemie GMBH
26 Agracel SW Shanghai Xietong (Argus)
27 Exhaclean BLC Denimist
Fixing 28 Albafix –ECO Huntsman Singapore
29 Albafix –FRD Huntsman Singapore
Cationic softener 30 Mesoft CCS Flack Matex International
31 Softner AWS-P Taiwan Surfactant
Non-ionic Softner 32 Softner E31 Taiwan Surfactant
Silicone softener 33 Kappa soft-SM Kapp Chemie GMBH
34 Wisifect MCH Veskim Kimyeve
35 Wisifect MIC H Veskim Kimyeve
Core neutralizer 36 Invatex -AC Huntsman Singapore
Fixing Remover 37 Invalon DAM Huntsman Singapore
Fixing 38 Argafix FR Shanghai Xietong (Argus)
39 Argafix T8 Shanghai Xietong (Argus)
30 | P a g e
List of dyes:
Serial Name of items Name of company

no
1 Novacron Blue FNR
2 Novacron Brilliant Yellow LS-4G
3 Novacron Brilliant Blue FNG
4 Novacron Dark Blue WR
5 Novacron Brown NC
6 Novacron Yellow F4G
7 Novacron Brilliant Red FN3GL
8 Novacron Deep Night SR
9 Novacron Yellow FN2R
10 Novacron Brilliant Blue HGR
11 Novacron Super Black- G
12 Novacron Terquish GN Huntsman
13 Novacron Navy FNB
14 NovacronOcean SR
15 Terasil Red WW-CBS
16 Terasil Red WW-3BS
17 Terasil Black WNS
18 Terasil Red WWFS
19 Terasil Blue WBLS
20 Terasil G. Yellow W-3R
21 Terasil Navy W-RS
22 Terasil Navy GRLC
23 Terasil Red W4BS
24 Terasil Red WRS
25 Terasil Yellow –W6GS Huntsman
26 Terasil Blue BGE
27 Terasil Orange GL
28 Terasil Rubine 2GFL
29 Uvitex- CIDN
30 Synozol Navy Blue HB
31 Synozol Deep Red HB
32 Synozol Yellow HB
33 Synozol Blue K-BR
34 Synozol Terquish Blue HF-G
35 Synozol Brilliant Blue RSPL
36 Synozol Ultra Black G
37 Synozol Red K-3BS Kyung-In Synthetic
38 Synozol Red HF- 3B Corporation
39 Synozol Yellow KHL
40 Synozol Red KHL
41 Synozol Blue KHL
42 Synozol Yellow HF-4GL
31 | P a g e
Dyes for nylon:

no
1 Lanaset Blue 2R
2 Lanaset Red 2B
3 Lanaset Black B
4 Lanaset Yellow 4GN Huntsman Singapore
5 Lanaset Blue 5G
6 Lanaset Bordeaux B
7 Lanaset Yellow 2R
List Of Washing Plant dyes:

no
1 Asuprint Black E-B
2 Asuprint Brill. Pink EB
3 Green Brilliant Asuprint E-G
4 Asuprint Blue E-BR 90
5 Asuprint Navy Blue E-BH Asutex
6 Violet Asuprint EB
7 Asuprint Orange E-R
8 Yellow Asuprint E-GC
9 Asuprint Golden Yellow E-AO
10 Asuprint Red E-BA
11 Asuprint Red E-BBK
12 Asuprint Blue E-GC 150
13 Compound Neutro Jel
14 Compound blue Jeans/Print
15 Asuprint Brown E-X
16 SW 117 Pink
17 SW 115 Lemon Yellow
18 SW 114 Orange
19 SW 147 Violet
20 SW 128 Blue Dysin Chem Ltd
21 SW 113 Red
22 SW 127 Rose
23 SW 112 Green
24 MF Gold RE-Y
25 MF Aqua RE-B Matex International Ltd
26 MF Blaze RE-RY
32 | P a g e
Chapter 8
Dyeing Lab
33 | P a g e
Layout of Dyeing Lab:
Responsibilities:
 Accepting the „Swatch‟ from the buyer and analyse the color & Dyes.
 Preparing the Recipe accurately matching the required color.
 Storing & maintain the dyes to be used for dyeing.
 Producing self-shades & storing it into the computer.
 Record & analysis of chemicals & dyes quality.
 Making plans for bulk dyeing.
 Following the color coding system given by the distinctive buyer & also prepare own color bank.
 Testing the dyed goods.
Color name according to shade:
Cotton:
Light shade (<.5%): Drimarine, Amron HF, Syno KHL, Remazol RR.
Medium shade (.5-1.5%): Syno KHL,Remazol RGB,Bikiative. Dark
shade (1.5-12%): Corazol RFT, Starfix,Bikiative,Rema RGB
Polyester:
For all shades: Terasil (HUNTSMAN)
Nylon:
Light shade: Erionyl
Medium shade: Erionyl
Dark shade: Lanasel
34 | P a g e
Process flowchart of a dyeing lab:
Swatch from buyer
Check required parameter
Recipe prediction
Spectrophotometer Previous reference
Dyeing
Match visually
Recipe correction
Spectrophotometer Visual inspection
Exact match with SWATCH
Send LAB DIPS to Buyer for approval
Approved Not approved
Go for production Prepare for RE-LAB DIP
Machineries in dyeing laboratory:
 Specification of a spectrophotometer:
Model no- 650
Manufacturer: DATACOLOR
Origin: USA
Software:
1. DATACOLOR MATCH TEXTILE (VERSION 1.5.2)
2. DATACOLOR TOOLS PLUS (VERSION 2.0.1)
Functions:
1. Measuring standard, correction & matching
2. Measuring color difference, Ref% & strength etc.
35 | P a g e
 Machine name: AUTO LAB
Model no: TD-LAB V34
Manufacturer: LAWER
Origin: ITALY
Serial no: 2709
Year: 2011
Capacity: 172 bottle
Functions:
1. Preparation of stock solution
2. Auto Dispensing of given recipe
 Machine name: HYDROEXTRACTOR

Model no: SUITMATE
Supplier: SDL ATLAS
Origin: ENGLAND
Function: To extract water from fabric after dyeing/
washing
 Machine name: AIR DRYER

Model no: G209A
Supplier: SDL ATLAS
Origin: ENGLAND
Temperature: 80
Time: 5/6 mins
Function: To dry fabric
 Machine name: Sandol Lab

Manufacturer: COPOWER Technology
Model: SUPERMAT
Production year: 2011
Origin: TAIWAN
Capacity: 24 pot
No. of machine: 05
Rotation speed: 60 rpm
Function: sample dyeing
 Machine name: Light box

Model no: CAC 120-5
Brand name: VERIVIDE
Serial no.: 1100547-02
Supplier: SDL ATLAS
Origin: UK
Function: To assess shade under different light sources.
36 | P a g e
Recipe calculation:
Total Liquor= (sample wt. x Liquor ratio) ml
Dyes/ Brightener =
Salt =
Soda/chemical =
Additional water= Total liquor- (dyes+ soda+ chemical solution) ml
WASHING PROCESS OF FABRIC:
Cotton- Reactive dyes:
Cold wash
Normal Hot (70-80 × 5 )́
Cold wash
Neutralization 0.5 G/ acetic acid with cold water 5
Chemical hot (Kappa Com E12- 2 G/L) (95--100 10
Hot wash (95 5
Cold wash
Hydro extract
Iron
37 | P a g e
Chemical used in Lab:
PROGRAMME CHEMICALS NAME USED% FUNCTION
COTTON DYEING: ALBATEX 2 g/l LEVELLING AGENT
DBC
WASHING: ACETIC 0.5 g/l NEUTRALIZATION
ACID
KAPPACOM E-12 2.0 g/l SOAPING AGENT
COTTON BATH: KAPPABOSS 0.6 g/l DETERGENT
SCOURING KAPPAVON- CL 0.8 g/l ANTICREASE
& BLEACHING AGENT
DENQUEST-HYN 0.8 g/l SEQUESTERING
AGENT
DENSTAB ESG 0.6 g/l STABILIZER
CAUSTIC Depends on FOR CONTROLLING
whiteness pH
H2O2 Depends on BLEACHING
whiteness
HQ4BK Depends on BRIGHTENER
whiteness
WASHING:
ACETIC ACID 0.5 g/l NEUTRALIZATION
POLYESTER DYEING: ALBATEX 2 g/l BUFFERING
AB-45
UNIVADINE DIF 1 g/l LEVELLING
WASHING: ACETIC 0.1 g/l NEUTRALIZATION
ACID
REDUCTION: L2M: D:4 g/l REDUCING AGENT
HYDROSE 2g/l
CAUSTIC 1g/l 2g/l FOR CONTROLLING
pH
ERIOPON OS 1 g/l 2g/l SOAPING
NYLON DYEING:1.ALBAGEL L:1%, M:1.5%, LEVELLING
SET d:2.0%
ALBATEX AB-45 1 g/l BUFFERING
2.UNIVADIN PA 2.3% LEVELLING
ALBATEX AB-45 0.3 g/l BUFFERING
3.ALBATEX PS35 0.2 g/l BUFFERING
UNIVADINE 2.3% LEVELLING
PA(ERIONYL)
ALBAGEL L:1%, LEVELLING
SET(LANASET) M;1.5%,D:2.0%
POLYESTERLUMINIOUS DYEING: ALBATEX 0.5 g/l BUFFERING
AB-45
UNIVADINE DIF 1.0 g/l LEVELLING
WASHING: ERIOPON 1.0 g/l SOAPING
OS
ERIONAL PAS/RAN 2.5 g/l WASHING OFF
38 | P a g e
Chemicals & brightener for cotton & polyester grey yarn:
Programme Chemicals Amount

COTTON Serazon CMS-100 3g/l
Caustic 2g/l
HEPTOL EMG 1g/l
H2O2 Depends on whiteness
Uvitex BHV Depends on whiteness
POLYESTER Uvitex EVF Depends on whiteness
Salt and soda recommendation:
FOR DRIMARINE
% OF 0.01-0.5 0.5-1.0 1.0-2.0 2.0-3.0 3.0-5.0 5.0 &

DYESTUFF ABOVE
GLAUBER 15 20 35 50 60 70
SALT(G/L)
SODA(G/L) 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 4
FOR SYNOZOL
% OF 0.01-0.10 0.1-0.50 0.5-1.0 1.0-3.0 3.0-5.0 ABOVE

DYESTUFF
GLAUBER 15 20 30 40 50 60
SALT(G/L)
SODA(G/L) 10 15 15 20 20 20
FOR REMAZOL
% OF <0. 0.1-0.5 0.5-1.0 1.0-2.0 2.0-3.0 3.0-5.0 >5.0

DYESTUF 1
F
0. 0. 0. 0. 0.7 1 1 1. 2 2 2. 3 3 4 5 5 6 >
1 3 5 5 5 5 5 6
GLAUBE 15 18 20 20 25 3 3 38 4 4 50 5 5 6 6 6 7 8
R 0 0 5 5 5 5 0 5 5 0 0
SALT(G/L
)
SODA(G/ 5 6 7 7 8 1 1 11 1 1 14 1 1 1 2 2 2 2
L) 0 0 3 3 5 5 8 0 0 0 0
39 | P a g e
FOR NOVACRON/STARFIX/REACTIVE
% OF 0.01- 0.1- 0.25- 0.5-1.0 1.0-2.0 2.0-3.0 3.0-4.0 4.0-5.0 5.0&

DYESTUFF 0.10 0.25 0.50 ABOVE
GLAUBER 10 15 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
SALT(G/L)
SODA(G/L) 80 10 12 14 16 18 20 20 5
CAUSTIC(G/L) - - - - - - - - 1.5
FOR AMTEX
% OF 0.01-0.5 0.5-1.0 1.0-2.0 2.0-4.0 RED/NAVY BLACK

DYESTUFF 4.0&ABOVE ≥5.0
GLAUBER 30 50 60 70 80 80
SALT(G/L)
SODA(G/L) 10 15 20 20 10 15
CAUSTIC(G/L - - - - 1 1
Pantone book:
• Buyer’s Swatch: may be piece of fabric or C.I. number of any specified ‘Pantone book’.
• There are 4 types of pantone book is available:
TP ----- textile paper
TC ----- textile cotton
TPX --- textile paper for bright
TCX --- textile cotton for bright
• The given swatch is measured by the „Spectrophotometer‟, which is prepared by reach memory of
different dyestuff self-shades.
• Also the matching may be done by previous working record.
40 | P a g e
Chapter 9
Dyeing Production
41 | P a g e
DYEING (PRODUCTION FLOOR)
Knit Concern LTD has three dyeing floors.
1. KCL
2. KCA
3. KCP
It has mainly two types of machines:
 Atmospheric machine
 High temperature machine
All the machines are winch dyeing machines having a modern mechanism, where both fabric and liquor moves.
Production Capacity:
KCL 12 ton/24 hours
KCA 24 tons/hours
KCP 7 tons/24 hours
Departmental Goals for Dyeing section:
Reprocess % <1.0%
Right First Time (RFT)% >75%
Water Consumption Color 60L/Kg
Black 65L/Kg
White 40L/Kg
High Temperature Dyeing Machine Sample Dyeing Machine

Atmospheric Dyeing Machine
42 | P a g e
Total number of machines:
Sample Dyeing Machines:
Capacity No of Machine
10 kgs 2
20 kgs 4
30 kgs 7
60 kgs 4
100 kgs 2
Bulk Dyeing Machines:
Capacity No. of machines

150 kgs - 6
200 kgs - 1
250 kgs - 1
300 kgs - 1
400 kgs - 1
500 kgs - 7
600 kgs - 1
750 kgs - 5
1000 kgs - 8
1200 kgs - 1
43 | P a g e
Layout plan of Dyeing Floor:
44 | P a g e
Machine No: 09 Machine No: 11 A
Brand Name: FONGS Brand Name: FONGS
Model: ALLFIT -6O Model: ALLFIT -30
Serial No: 28015417 Serial No :26011959
Country Of Origin: Honkong Country Of Origin: CHINA
Machine Type :HP/HT Machine Type :HP/HT
Machine Capacity: 6O Kg Machine Capacity :30 Kg
Cycle time: 03 min Cycle time: 03 min
No of cycle : 12 No of cycle : 12
Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min Main pump speed :80-150 m/min
Winch speed: 250 m/min Winch speed: 250 m/min
No of Nozzle: 02 No of Nozzle : 01
No of motor: 08 No of motor: 08
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa
Compressed Air pressure required : 700 Kpa Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa
Design temp. : 140 ° C Design temp. : 140 ° C
Year Built : 2003 Year Built : 2001
Machine No: 10 Machine No: 11 B

Model: ALLFIT -6O Model: ALLFIT -30
Serial No : 26012103 Serial No :29017180
Country Of Origin : Honkong Country Of Origin : Honkong
Machine Type :HP/HT Machine No of Nozzle : 01
Capacity: 100 Kg No of motor: 08
Cycle time: 03 min Machine Type :HP/HT
No of cycle : 12 Machine Capacity :30 Kg
Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min Cycle time: 03 min
Winch speed: 250 m/min No of cycle : 12
No of Nozzle: 02 N o of Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min
motor: 08 Winch speed: 250 m/min
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz No of Nozzle: 01
Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa No of motor: 08
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa Power: 415 V 3 C 50 Hz
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa
Design temp. : 140 ° C Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa
Year Built : 2001 Steam pressure required: 700 Kpa
Design temp. : 140 °c
Year Built : 2004
45 | P a g e
Machine No: 11 C Cycle time: 03 min
Brand Name: FONGS No of cycle : 12
Model: ALLFIT -30 Main pump speed :80-150 m/min
Serial No :29017183 Winch speed :250 m/min
Country Of Origin : Honkong
Machine Type :HP/HT Machine No: 12
Machine Capacity :30 Kg Cycle time: 03 min Brand Name: FONGS
No of cycle : 12 Model: GN-18
Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min Serial No :24010324
Winch speed: 250 m/min Country Of Origin: CHINA
No of Nozzle: 01 Machine Type :Environmental
No of motor: 08 Machine Capacity: 100 Kg
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz Cycle time: 03 min
Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa No of cycle : 12
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa Main pump speed :80-150 m/min
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa Winch speed :250 m/min
Design temp. : 140 ° C No of Nozzle: 0 1
Year Built : 2004 No of motor: 08
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
Machine No: 11 D Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa
Brand Name: FONGS Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa
Model: ALLFIT -30 Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa
Serial No :29017182 Design temp. : 140 ° C
Country Of Origin : Honkong Year Built : 2000
Machine Type :HP/HT
Machine Capacity :30 Kg Machine No: 13
Cycle time: 03 min Sample Dyeing m/c:
No of cycle : 12 Brand: Ugoloni
Main pump speed :80-150 m/min Origin : Italy Capacity:
Winch speed: 250 m/min 20 Kg.
No of Nozzle: 0 1
No of motor: 08
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa
Design temp. : 140 ° C
Year Built: 2004
Machine No: 11 E
Brand Name: FONGS
Model: ALLFIT -30
Serial No :29017181
Machine Type :HP/HT
Machine Capacity :30 Kg
46 | P a g e
Bulk Dyeing Machine:
Machine No: 01 Machine Capacity :800 Kg
Brand Name: FONGS Cycle time : 03 min
Model: GN 6-SR -6T No of cycle 12
Serial No :26012102 Main pump speed :80-150 m/min
Country Of Origin : Honkong Winch speed :250 m/min
Machine Type: HP/HT Machine No of Nozzle: 04
Capacity: 1200 Kg No of motor: 08
Cycle time: 03 min Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
No of cycle : 12 Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa
Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa
Winch speed: 250 m/min Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa
No of Nozzle: O6 Design temp. : 140 ° C
No of motor: 08 Year Built : 2001
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa Machine No: 2C
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa Brand Name: FONGS
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa Model: GN-18 M-4 T
Design temp. : 140 ° C Serial No :24010297
Year Built : 2002 Country Of Origin : Honkong
Machine Type :Environmental
Machine No: 2A Machine Capacity :800 Kg
Brand Name: FONGS Cycle time: 03 min
Model: GN 6-SR -4T No of cycle : 12
Serial No :26012101 Main pump speed :80-150 m/min
Country Of Origin : Honkong Winch speed :250 m/min
Machine Type: HP/HT Machine No of Nozzle: 04 No of motor: 08
Capacity: 800 Kg Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
Cycle time: 03 min Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa
No of cycle : 12 Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa
Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa
Winch speed: 250 m/min Design temp. : 140 ° C
No of Nozzle: 04 Year Built : 2000
No of motor: 08
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz Machine No: 3A
Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa Brand Name: FONGS
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa Model: GN-6 SR-3T
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa Serial No :26012100
Design temp. : 140 ° C Country Of Origin : Honkong
Year Built : 2002 Machine Type: HP/HT Machine
Capacity: 800 Kg
Machine No: 2B Cycle time: 03 min
Brand Name: FONGS No of cycle : 12
Model : GN-18 M-4 T Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min
Serial No :2G011473 Winch speed :250 m/min
Country Of Origin : Honkong No of Nozzle: 03 No
Machine Type :Environmental of motor: 08
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz Machine No: 4B
Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa Brand Name: FONGS
Compressed Air pressure required : 700 Kpa Model: GN-18 M-2T
Steam pressure required: 700 Kpa Serial No :23009199
Design temp. : 140 ° C Country Of Origin : Honkong
Year Built : 2002 Machine Type :Environmental
Machine Capacity :400 Kg
47 | P a g e
Cycle time: 03 min
Machine No: 3B No of cycle : 12
Brand Name: FONGS Main pump speed :80-150 m/min
Model: GN-18 M-3T Winch speed :250 m/min
Serial No :24010325 No of Nozzle : 01
Country Of Origin : Hong kong
Machine Type :Environmental Machine No: 4C
Machine Capacity :600 Kg Brand Name: FONGS
Cycle time: 03 min Model: GN-18-2T
No of cycle : 12 Serial No :23009200
Main pump speed :80-150 m/min Country Of Origin : Honkong
Winch speed :250 m/min Machine Type: Environmental Machine
No of Nozzle : 01 Capacity: 400Kg
No of motor: 08 Cycle time: 03 min
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz No of cycle : 12
Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min
Compressed Air pressure required : 700 Kpa Winch speed: 250 m/min
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa No of Nozzle: 02
Design temp. : 140 ° C No of motor: 08
Year Built : 2000 Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
Machine No: 4A Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa
Brand Name: FONGS Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa
Model: GN-6-2T Design temp. : 140 ° C
Serial No :23009446 Year Built : 1998
Machine Type :HP/HT Machine No: 4D
Machine Capacity :400 Kg Brand Name: FONGS
Cycle time: 03 min Model: ECO-6-2T
No of cycle : 12 Serial No :28015334
Main pump speed :80-150 m/min Country Of Origin : Honkong
Winch speed :250 m/min Machine Type: HP/HT
No of Nozzle: 02 Machine Capacity: 400 Kg
No of motor: 08 Cycle time: 03 min
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz No of cycle : 12
Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa Winch speed: 250 m/min
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa No of Nozzle: 02
Design temp. : 140 ° C No of motor: 08
Year Built : 1998 Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
48 | P a g e
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa Machine No: 6A
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa Brand Name: FONGS
Design temp. : 140 ° C Model: ECO-38-6T
Year Built: 2003 Serial No :28014582
Machine No: 5A Machine Type: Environmental Machine
Brand Name: FONGS Capacity: 1500Kg
Model: GN-6-1T Cycle time: 03 min
Serial No :23009447 No of cycle: 12
Country Of Origin : Honkong Main pump speed :80-150 m/min
Machine Type :HP/HT Winch speed: 250 m/min
Machine Capacity :200 Kg No of Nozzle: 02
Cycle time: 03 min No of motor: 08
No of cycle: 12 Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
Main pump speed :80-150 m/min Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa
Winch speed :250 m/min Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa
No of Nozzle: 01 Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa
No of motor: 08 Design temp. : 140 ° C
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz Year Built: 2003
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa Machine No: 6B
Steam pressure required: 700 Kpa Brand Name: FONGS
Design temp. : 140 ° C Model: ECO-38-6T
Year Built: 1998 Serial No :28014581
Machine No: 5B Machine Type: Environmental Machine
Brand Name: FONGS Capacity: 1500 Kg
Model: GN-18 M-4 T Cycle time: 03 min
Serial No :26011472 No of cycle : 12
Country Of Origin : Honkong Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min
Machine Type :HP/HT Winch speed: 250 m/min
Machine Capacity :200 Kg No of Nozzle: 06
Cycle time: 03 min No of motor: 08
No of cycle : 12 Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz
Main pump speed :80-150 m/min Water supply pressure req. : 300 Kpa
Winch speed :250 m/min Compressed Air pressure required : 700 Kpa
No of Nozzle: 0 1 Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa
No of motor: 08 Design temp. : 140 ° C
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz Year Built : 2003
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa
Steam pressure required: 700 Kpa
Design temp.: 140 ° C
Year Built: 1998
49 | P a g e
Machine No: 7A Machine No: 08
Model: ECO-38-4T Model: ECO-38-3T
Serial No :28015424 Serial No :28015422
Country Of Origin : Honkong Country Of Origin : Honkong
Machine Type: Environmental Machine Machine Type: Environmental Machine
Capacity: 1000Kg Capacity: 750Kg
Cycle time: 03 min Cycle time: 03 min
No of cycle: 12 No of cycle: 12
Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min
Winch speed: 250 m/min Winch speed: 250 m/min
No of Nozzle: 02 No of Nozzle : 02
No of motor: 08 No of motor: 08
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 H
Compressed Air pressure required : 700 Kpa Machine No: 6P
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa Capacity:1500Kg
Design temp. : 140 ° C Then Airflow syn-1
Year Built : 2003
Machine No: 4P
Machine No: 7B Capacity: 1000Kg
Brand Name: FONGS Then airflow syn-1
Model: ECO-38-4T
Serial No :28015423 Machine No: 3P
Country Of Origin : Honkong Capacity: 750Kg
Machine Type: Environmental Machine Then airflow syn-1
Capacity: 1000Kg
Cycle time: 03 min Machine No: 1AP
No of cycle : 12 Capacity: 50Kg
Main pump speed: 80-150 m/min Then airflow syn-1
Winch speed: 250 m/min
No of Nozzle: 02 Machine No: 2CP
No of motor: 08 Capacity500Kg
Power: 415 V 3 @ 50 Hz Then airflow syn-1
Compressed Air pressure required: 700 Kpa Machine No: 2DP
Steam pressure required : 700 Kpa Capacity: 500Kg
Design temp. : 140 ° C Then airflow syn-8
Year Built : 2003
Machine No: 2AP
Capacity: 500Kg
Then airflow syn-2
Machine No: 2BP

Capacity: 500Kg
Then airflow syn-1
Machine No: 1BP

Capacity: 250Kg
Then airflow syn-1
50 | P a g e
pH Level and Addition of Caustic and Soda Ash for Different Shade Percentage:
Shade % pH Soda Ash Caustic
Light (< 1.0%) 10.5  ×
Medium (1.0-2.5 %) 10.8  May be added
Dark (>2.5 %) 11.2  
pH in different stage:
Stage pH
Before levelling agent 6.5-7
After levelling agent 5.5
Exhaustion 6.5-7
Caustic 11-11.5
Scouring and bleaching 10-11
Dyeing Parameters for Bulk Production:

Process Temp ˚C pH Time min M : L ratio
Scouring - Bleaching
98 11.5-12 60' 1:6 or 1:8
Enzyme Wash 55 4.5-5 60' 1:8

Enzyme Deactivation 70 -- 10' --
Reactive Dyeing
60 10.2-10.8 60' 1:8
(Light Shade)
Reactive Dyeing (Dark
Shade) 60 10.9-12 60' 1:8
White Shade 98 10.5-11.5 20' 1:8

Turquish color dyeing 80-90 10.9-12 90' 1:8
Polyester dyeing 130 4-4.5 45' 1:8

Viscose dyeing 60 5.5-6.5 30‟ 1:8
51 | P a g e
Shade management:
For Tube section:
 In case of tube fabric, fabric should be unloaded at 10% darker than lab dip. Because in tube compacting
machine there is a blade which makes the shade lighter.
 Tube fabric but if it undergoes garments wash, then fabric should be lighter than normal because
during garment wash fabric gains color.
For open section:

 In case open fabric; fabric should be unloaded according to the same tone as that of lab dip.
 Open fabric but sueded, fabric should be unloaded at 5% deep (yellow, Red) than lab dip, because after
sueding fabric becomes bluish.
Machine wash:
Machine wash is a must if light color is to be dyed after deep color.
Calculations required in the dyeing section:
1. Rope Length= Total Fabric Weight
GSM x Diameter x Number of Nozzle
2. Cycle Time = Rope Length

Winch RPM
3. Total Time needed = Cycle Time x Number of Cycle
52 | P a g e
Process Flowchart of Dyeing (General):
At first dye bath is filled with required amount of water and temperature is set at about 50°c
Then anticreasing agent and sequestering agent is added
After that caustic soda is added at 50°c
Following caustic soda comes antifoaming agent
At about 60°c H2O2 is added
Temperture raised to 98° C & run the material for 60'
Drain
Normal Hot Wash at 75°c for 10'
Rinse for 5'
Drain the liquor
Add Acetic acid and Hyroxide Killer and run the liqour for 20' at 60°c
Drain
Rinse for 5'
Drain the liquor
New water from reserver is taken & pH should be 6.5 .
Enzyme is injected to the bath . Run time is 60' at 55°C
Temperature is raised to 70° C & run time 10' & then drain
53 | P a g e
Again take new water & add levelling agent,lubricant, antifoaming agent & also dose glaubar salt for 20' pH should
be checked (pH =7)
Color dosing for 10 cycle at 60°C
Add soda by dosing for 40'at 60°C
Run the fabric for 40-60'.At this time after every 20' the sample is checked.
Rinse the material for 10' & bath is drained.
At room temp. acid treatment is done for 20'& rinse the material for 5'
Soaping is done at 90°C for 10 min & bath is drained.
Add fixing agent at 50° C & run for 20' & bath is drained
Softening is done at 60° C for 20'& bath is drained.
Finally the fabric is unloaded.
54 | P a g e
General Scouring and Bleaching Process: Sample Check
60'
98°c
10'
60°c
Hydrogen Peroxide
1.5°c
/min 75 °c
40°c
1. Fabric
2. Anticreasing agent Rinse
3. Sequestering Agent
4. Caustic Soda
5. Antifoaming Agent Bath drain
6. Stabilizer
7. Detergent
General Bio-Polishing Process:
Sample 70°c X10'
55°c X60'
Drain
1. Acid
2. Enzyme
40°c Rinse
1. Water
2. Peroxide
Killer
3. pH Check
ISO Process
st nd st nd
Dyes 1 salt 2 salt 1 soda 2 soda
Levelling Color steam
60°c 10 cycle 10' 5' 5' 20' 6 cycle 8cycle 20' 40-60'
Bath Drop
55 | P a g e
RGB Process:
Dyes Soda Dosing

70%
60°c Color Steam

Levelling salt
10 cycle 20' 45' 40-60'
40°c 40°c
Bath Drop
RR Process:
Dyes Soda Dosing
Levelling salt 60°c Color Steam
10 cycle 20' 40' 40-60'
40°c Bath Drop

G.ISO:
Levelling Dyes 1st salt 2nd salt 1st soda (1/20) 2nd soda (19/20) 78°c Color Steam
70%
40-60'
60°c 10 cycle 10' 10' 20' 8 cycle 10cycle 20' Bath Drop
RSPL Process:
Rest Soda
70%
60°c
st nd Color Steam
Levelling Dyes 1 salt 2 salt 2gpl soda dose
10 cycle 20' 40-60'
40 °c 10 cycle 10' 10' 20' 8 cycle

Bath Drop
56 | P a g e
Amron / Star fix Process:
Dyes 2gpl soda dose Rest soda+caustic
Levellling Salt
Color Steam
60°c
10 cycle 20' 6 cycle 8 cycle 20' 40-60'
Bah Drop
Special Migration Process:
Dyes 90°c 15'

Soda Dose 78°c color steam
78°c 70%
Levelling salt
55°c
60°c 5' 40' 20'

40°c Bath Drop
General After treatment Process:
Neutralization:
Acetic acid Sample Check
40°c 20'
Drain
Soaping/Chemical Hot:
Sample check
80/90 -
Exhaclean BLC
Drain
40°
57 | P a g e
Fixing:
Fixing Sample check
40 20
Drain
Softening:
Softener CT/Color Softener
40°c
Drain
Process for Black Shade:
Shade Percentage 7%-9%
80 °c 20 '
40°c
1. Anticreasing agent
2. Antifoaming agent Enzyme treatment
3. Strong Detergent
4. Acetic acid Dyeing
Some Dyeing Recipes:

Recipe 1:
Fabric Type: S/J lycra
Color Name: 994-Gris Carbone
GSM: 170
M: L: 1:7
Process: RGB
58 | P a g e
Chemicals/Auxiliaries Amount(g/l) Amount
(%)
Kappasol AF-2000 (Anti foam) 0.2
Argalube NF (Anticrease) 0.8
Argarep LFD conc (Detergent) 1.0
Equasec STA (Stabilizer) 0.3
Ceelion BDW (Sequester) 0.3
Caustic (Basic) 2.0
Hydrogen Peroxide (Basic) 2.0
Normal Hot 75X10 mi n
Invatec AC (Core Neutralizer) 0.5

80 x10'
Clerix NAC(Acid) 1.4
Oxilost P (Peroxide Killer) 0.5
Unizime 1000L (Enzyme) 0.60
Albaflow FFC (Antifoam) 0.2
Argalube NF (Anticrease) 0.5
Albatex DBC (Levelling) 0.8
Glauber Salt (Basic) 45.0
Soda Ash (Basic) 13.0
Remazol Ultra Yellow RGB 0.5800
Remazol Ultra Red RGB 0.4440
Remazol Ultra Navy RGB 1.2000
Color Softener (Softener) 0.5
59 | P a g e
Dyeing Faults:
 Uneven Dyeing
1. It can be caused due to rapid addition of dyes and chemicals. For this purpose the dosing of soda ash should
be maintained properly.
2. Pressure difference.
3. Over loading in the m/c.
4. Yarn lot mixing.
5. Improper control of temperature.
6. Less amount of leveling agent.
7. Improper pretreatment
 Rope to Rope Uneven Shade

1. Improper rope length in each chamber.
2. Improper fabric flow speed in each nozzle.
 Off Shade
1. Improper M: L ratio.
2. Lower amount of auxiliaries.
3. Improper mixing of dyestuffs.
 Dye Spots
This is most common fault caused by operator for not correctly mixing and thoroughly dissolving dyestuffs
in the right amount of water.
 Batch to Batch Shade Variation

If any of parameters of dyeing are changed then it will produce problems in batch to batch consistency.
In order to avoid this defect the following steps should be followed- 1. Maintain the same liquor ratio.
2. Check that the fabric has the same dye affinity.
3. Use the same standard program procedures for each batch.
4. Make sure that the operators add the right batch of chemicals at the same time & temperature in the process.
 Crease Mark
Crease marks are produced due to the lower concentration of anti-creasing agent and improper cooling
rate (defective cooling gradient). This is encountered by increasing the concentration of anticreasing
agent and proper adjustment of cooling rate.
 Running Marks
Running marks are frequently related to the material construction and are caused by poor opening of
the fabric rope.
1. Reducing the machine load and running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure, or using the next largest available
nozzle size, may also help.
2. Either presetting or pre relaxation of the fabric before dyeing can avoid this problem.
3. Running and crack marks can also be a result of incorrect process procedures. A higher fabric speed,
combined with slower rates of rinse and cooling will often correct the problem.
4. Care should be taken to check that bath draining temperatures are not very high especially viscose blends are
involved.
5. Shock cooling of static material will also cause crack marks.
 Patchy Dyeing
It is caused, if dye solution is not correct and also scouring is improper.
60 | P a g e
Chapter 10
Finishing
61 | P a g e
Finishing:
A finish is done to a fabric after weaving or knitting to change its appearance, handle and performance.
Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different processes that the textile material undergoes after pre-
treatment, dyeing or printing to enhance their attractiveness and sale appeal as well as comfort and usefulness.
Finishing completes the fabrics‟ performance and gives it special functional properties including the final touch.
It is the final step in the fabric manufacturing process and the last chance to provide the properties the customers
will value.
Why we do finishing:
• To improve serviceability.
• To improve attractiveness.
• To enhance their sale appeal.
• To improve comfort and usefulness.
• To get specific end use.
Effects of finishing:
• Softness or stiffness.
• Pleasant handle.
• Drape.
• Dimensional stability.
• Crease recovery.
• Easy care.
• Anti-static property.
• Good abrasion resistance.
• Good sew ability.
• Luster.
• Improved sew ability.
In a broad sense, finishing covers all the processes which the fabric undergoes after leaving loom or knitting machine
to the stage at which it enters the market.
Generally, in dyeing machines, all knit fabrics are dyed in tubular form. Dyed fabrics are finished in either tubular
form or open width form according to buyer requirements.
Depending on which finishing sections are separated into two sections:

1. Open fabric finish section.
2. Tubular fabric finish section.
62 | P a g e
Flow chart of open fabric finish section:
Slitting machine
Stenter machine
Compactor machine
Quality Control
Delivery in roll form
Flow chart of tube fabric finishes section:
Hydro extractor / Squeezer
Dryer
Turning machine
Calender machine
Compactor machine
Quality Control
Delivery in roll form
63 | P a g e
Description of different finishing machines:
Open fabric finish section

The number of different finishing machines in open fabric finish section is given below:
Name of the Finishing machines Number of the finishing machines
Slitting machine 2
Stenter machine 3
Compactor machine 3
Table for Quality Control 2
Layout plan of the open fabric finish section:
64 | P a g e
Slitting machine:
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended brake Wales line on length
wise direction prior to stenter processing.
Specification of slitting machine:
There are two slitting machines in open fabric finish section and the specifications of these two machines are given
below:
1. Machine name: Slitting machine
Machine number: KDSL 02
Brand name: BIANCO
Origin: Italy
Serial no: MD5304-023517
2. Machine name: Slitting machine

Machine number: KDSL 03
Brand name: BIANCO
Origin: Italy
Serial no: MD5304-023517
Function of Slitting machine:

• Slit cut the tubular fabric according to the needle mark
• Delivered fabric in crease free state
• Remove excess water by padder
• Detwisting of fabric
• Increase widthwise tension Reduce lengthwise tension
Fabric passage diagram of Slitting machine:
65 | P a g e
Stenter machine:
There are two types of stenter machines:
1. Oil heated stenter machine
2. Gas heated stenter machine
Specification of oil heated Stenter machine:

1. Machine name: Oil Stenter machine
Brand name: Bruckner
Origin: Germany
Air pressure: 10 bar (maximum)
Steam pressure: 2 bar (maximum)
2. Machine name: Oil Stenter machine

Brand name: Bruckner Origin:
Germany Maximum
temperature: 210◦C
Specification of gas heated Stenter machine:

Machine name: Gas Stenter machine
Origin: Germany
Type: Power-Pad
Steam pressure: 0.7 bar
Air pressure: 10 bar
Heat: 2640 KW
Maximum temperature: 210◦C
Function of Stenter machine:

• Drying the fabric
• To heat set the lycra fabric
• Controlling the diameter of the fabric
• To control the shrinkage of the fabric or maintaining dimensional stability
• Controlling the G.S.M of the fabric
• Apply gum on the selvedge of the fabric
• Apply chemical and softener for fabric hand feel
• Curing of fabric
• To decrease spirality and twisting
• Controlling the skewness and bowing effect
• To cut the sides of the fabric
66 | P a g e
Temperature in stenter machine for different types of fabric:
Different types of fabrics Temperature in Stenter machine
(◦ C)
Cotton fabric 130-160
CVC or PC 125-130
Lycra single jersey 140
Heat set of lycra single jersey (light fabric) 190
White fabric 130
Heat set of lycra Rib & Terry (Heavy fabric) 195
Overfeed in stenter machine for different types of fabric:

Different types of fabrics Overfeed in stenter machine
(% )
Single jersey cotton fabric 80
Rib fabric 70
Lycra / Lycra single jersey fabric 80
Interlock fabric 70
Lycra Interlock fabric 60-70
CVC fabric 65
Fabric passage diagram of Stenter machine:
Difference between Oil stenter machine and Gas stenter machine:
Oil Stenter machine Gas Stenter machine
1. Thermo oil is used as fuel for heating. 1. Gas is used as fuel for heating.
2. There is no burner. 2. There are 16 burners in total.
3. Thermo Oil is heated by boiler. 3. Gas is heated by electricity.
4. It has no heat recovery system. 4. It has heat recovery system.
5. Thermo oil can be recycled. 5. Gas can not be recycled but heated air can be
reused.
6. There are only two exhaust pipes. 6. There are more than two exhaust pipes.
7. Heat setting is possible. 7. Heat setting is possible but risky.
67 | P a g e
Different parameters used for different types of fabrics:
Fabric Machine Required After Required After Temperature Overfeed
Types Diameter Diameter Stenter G.S.M Stenter (◦ C) ( %)
(inch) (inch) dia(inch) G.S.M
24/s 32 64 68 180 165-168 125 65
CVC
34/s 34 70 72 160/165 130-140 135 80

S/J
40/s 38 72 74 190 135 185 70

Interlock
Terry 30 79 81 280 172-174 150 70

(black)
Process sequence of Stenter machine:

Fabric loading
Emersion in softener bath
Squeezing
Overfeeding
Fabric catching in Stenter chain
Passing through the heated chambers
Drying/Heat setting/Curing
Cooling fabric in cooling chamber
Delivery
68 | P a g e
Compactor machine:
There are 3 compactor machines in open fabric finish section:
• Bruckner compactor machine
• Lafer compactor machine
• Tubetex compactor machine
Function of compactor machine:

• To control shrinkage of the fabric
• To control diameter of the fabric
• To control G.S.M of the fabric
• To give the shining effect
• To control the twisting and bowing effect of the fabric
Bruckner compactor machine:

Specification of Bruckner compactor machine: Machine
name: Open width compactor machine
Type: OC-28+SV-28
Order No: 43097
Origin: Germany
Technical specification:
• Workable diameter: 23.6-110 inch
• Machine speed: 40-50 m/min
• Average temperature in steam box: 120-130◦C
• Maximum temperature in steam box: 220◦C
• Minimum temperature in steam box: 25◦C
• Overfeed % : 28%-40%
• Compaction % : 6%-7%
• Teflon pressure: 21-23 bar
• Blanket pressure: 4-6 bar
Fabric passage diagram of Bruckner Compactor machine:
69 | P a g e
Lafer compactor machine:
Specification of Lafer compactor machine:

Machine name: Open width compactor machine
Brand name: Lafer
Origin: Italy
Technical specification of Lafer compactor machine:

• Machine speed: 45 m/min (max) & 5 m/min (min)
• Workable diameter: 245 cm (maximum)
• Average temperature in steam box: 120-130◦C
• Maximum temperature in steam box: 220◦C
• Minimum temperature in steam box: 25◦C
• Overfeed % : 40%
• Compaction % : 6%
• Teflon pressure: 21-23 bar
• Blanket pressure: 4-6 bar
Differences between Bruckner compactor machine and Lafer compactor machine:
Bruckner compactor machine Lafer compactor machine
1. There is Mahlo arrangement in Bruckner 1. There is no Mahlo arrangement in Lafer

compactor machine. compactor machine.
2 .In Bruckner compactor machine, compaction is 3. In Lafer compactor machine, compaction is
less than Lafer compactor machine. better than Bruckner compactor machine.
Fabric relaxation period for different types of fabric:

After compacting operation, fabric relaxation is necessary for controlling shrinkage and G.S.M of the fabric. The
relaxation period is varied with different types of fabric. Some examples are given below:
Different types of fabric Fabric relaxation period in hour
1.Viscose/ Lycra 48
2.Polyester/ Jersey 48
3.Cotton Single Jersey 12
4.Cotton Fleece 24
5.Terry Fleece/ Lycra Fleece 48
6.Lycra Rib 24
7.Cotton Pique 24
70 | P a g e
Hydro extractor/ Squeezer machine:
There are 3 squeezer machines in tubular fabric finish section and the specifications of these 3 machines are given
below:
Specifications of Hydro extractor/ Squeezer machine:

1. Machine name: Hydro extractor/ Squeezer machine
Brand name: Santex AG
Type: Santastetch
Machine number: KDS-1
Origin: Switzerland
2. Machine name: Hydro extractor/ Squeezer m/c

Serial number: AC No-8
Origin: Switzerland
3. Machine name: Hydro extractor/ Squeezer m/c

Brand name: Bianco
Serial number: MO5794-025719
Origin: Italy
Year of constraction: 2007
Function of Squeezer machine:

• To remove excess water from the fabric
• To soften the fabric by using softener
• To control diameter of tube fabric by using „Dia Shaper‟ slightly
• To provide uniform tension to control G.S.M of the fabric
• To clean any unnecessary dust or hair of fibres
Fabric passage diagram of Hydro extractor/Squeezer machine:
71 | P a g e
Dryer:
There are 3 Dryer machines in tubular fabric finish section and the specifications of these 3 machines are given
below:
Specifications of Dryer machine:

1. Machine name: Dryer machine
Machine number: KDD-02
Origin: Switzerland
Total number of chamber: 6
2. Machine name: BRIO Dryer machine
Brand name: Biancalani
Machine number: KDD-03
Origin: Italy
3. Machine name: Dryer machine
Machine type: Power-Pad
Origin: Germany
Function of Dryer machine:
• To dry the wet fabric
• To control the shade and G.S.M of the fabric slightly.
• To control the overfeed system
• To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M of the fabric
Different temperature and speed of machine in different fabrics:
Fabrics Temperature Speed(m/min)

1X1 rib 140-150 11-12
Interlock 140-150 11-12
Single jersy 135-140 14-15
Lycra 150 6-7
72 | P a g e
Tube Compactor machine:
There are 2 Tube Compactor machines in tubular fabric finish section and the specifications of these 2 machines
are given below:
Specifications of Tube Compactor machine:
1. Machine name: Tube Compactor machine
Brand name: Tubetex
Manufacturer: Navis
Machine Number: KDCM-01
Origin: U.S.A
2. Machine name: Tube Compactor machine

Brand name: Tubetex
Machine number: KDCM-04
Origin: U.S.A
Function of Tube Compactor machine:
• To control diameter of the fabric
• To control shrinkage of the fabric
• To control G.S.M of the fabric
• To give the shining effect
• To control dimensional stability of the fabric
Possible Compaction% for different types of fabric:
Different types of fabrics Compaction (%)
1.Rib fabric 10-12%

2.Interlock fabric 12-14%
3.Single jersey fabric 8-10%
4.Pique fabric 12-14%
Differences between Tube Compactor machine (Tubetex) and Open width Compactor
machine (Tubetex):
Tube Compactor machine (Tubetex) Open width Compactor machine (Tubetex)
1. Compacting is done by roller and blade 1. Compacting is done by roller and shoe
arrangement. arrangement.
2. Fabric width can be controlled by tube 2. Fabric width can not be controlled by open
compactor machine. width compactor machine.
3. Overfeed is done by increasing the speed of 3. Overfeed is done by passing more fabric in
wheel. feeding zone.
4. This finishing technique is applied on one side 4. This finishing technique is applied on both side
of the fabric. of the fabric.
5. Steam is passed over the fabric passage. 5. Steam is passed through the underside of the
fabric passage.
6. The blade is placed both over and underside of 6. Shoe is placed under the retard and the feed
the rollers. roller.
73 | P a g e
Special finishing section
The number of different finishing machines in tubular fabric finish section is given below:
Name of finishing machines Number of finishing machines
Sueding machine 2
Raising machine 1
Shearing machine 1
Singeing machine 1
Layout plan of the special finishing section:
Sueding Raising Sueding Shearing Singeing

machine machine machine machine macine
W E
Entry N
74 | P a g e
Raising/Brushing machine:
Specification of Raising/Brushing machine:
Machine name: Raising/Brushing machine

Machine number: KDR-01
Brand name: Optisystem 6725
Manufacturer: Gematex
Model: KRM 6725
Origin: Germany
Function of raising machine:

• To raise the extra thread loops on the back side of fabric
• To increase the warmth of fabric and make the fabric comfortable
• To modify the appearance of fabric surface
Shearing machine:
Specification of Shearing machine:

Machine name: Shearing machine
Brand name: Xetma
Manufacturer: Gematex
Machine number: KDR-02
Origin: Germany
Compressed air pressure: 6 bar
Function of Shearing machine:

• To clear out the random length fibres and produce a uniform and level pile.
• To produce a certain hand feel.
• To improve the color and appearance of the fabric.
Singeing machine:
Specification of Singeing machine:

Machine name: Gas Singeing machine
Machine number: OSTHOFF- SENGE
Origin: Germany
Model: WW2006
Function of Singeing machine:

Singeing is done in grey fabric of both side. It is done to remove the hairs from the grey fabric surface by burning
in extremely heated flame.
75 | P a g e
Chapter 11
Yarn Dyeing
76 | P a g e
77 | P a g e
Product mix:
- 100 % cotton
- CVC (Chief Value Cotton) (60/40)
- Grey melange
* 5 % Viscose & 95% Cotton
* 10 % Viscose & 90% Cotton
* 15 % Viscose & 85 % Cotton
- Ecro melange (2%)
- Camel melange (1%, 2%)
- PC (52/48)
-Sewing thread.
-Poly acrylic threads (NOT 100%).
Project Cost:
50 core Taka (Approximately).
YARN DYEING SECTION:

AREA: 1 LAKH sq. fit. Floor: MULTI-STORED FLOOR (25,000 sq.ft/floor).
PRODUCTION: 27 TONS (Approximately). It has two lifts, two cranes of capacity=10 tons. There is a Bas Bar
(have no wire) system to facilitate production.
Different Departments:
Production Oriented Department: Supporting department:
 Yarn store • Procurement
 Planning & Control • Merchandising
 Batching • Marketing
 Chemical store • IT
 Winding section • HRD
 Dyeing Section • Finance & accounting
 Finishing Section • Medical
 Dyeing lab section • Personnel Administration
 Wet lab • Security
 Quality Control
 Maintenance
 Utility
 WTP
 ETP
Yarn Dyeing Profile:
Yarn Dyeing Capacity : 25 Ton/Day

Yarn Printing Capacity : 2 Ton/Day
Sewing Thread Capacity : 20,000 Cone/Day
Twisting Capacity : 400 Kg/Day
Nylon Dyeing Capacity : 100 Kg/Day
78 | P a g e
Yarn Dyeing Sequence:
Planning according to order sheet
Soft winding
Batch preparation
Yarn Dyeing
Hydro
Drying
Hard Winding
Packing
Delivery store
Type of Yarn used:
1. Cotton 2. Nylon
3. Polyester 4. Spun Polyester
5. Viscose 6. Grey Mélange
7. CVC 8. Linen
9. PC 10. PV
11. Slub Yarn -Carded, Combed, Compact, Rotor.
Winding Machine:
SOFT WINDING SECTION

Total no. of m/c : 15
Total no of spindle : 990
Soft winding m/c:
Figure: FADIS soft winding m/c Figure: SSM Soft winding m/c
79 | P a g e
Hard winding Machine:
Total no of m/c: 13
DETAILED CAPACITY OF DYEING MACHINES:
M/C NO. OF NO OF TOTAL NO. OF TOTAL

CAPACITY CARRIER PACKAGE PER PACKAGE WEIGHT
CARRIER (each 1.1 kg) (Kg)
1600 108 12 1296 1425
1000 69 12 828 910
800 54 12 648 715
600 54 9 486 534
400 36 9 324 356
200 18 9 162 178
100 9 9 81 89
60 6 8 48 53
50 6 6 36 39
30 4 6 24 26
80 | P a g e
81 | P a g e
YARN PRINTING SECTION:
Name of the m/c: Bobbin injection dyeing m/c
No. of m/c : 03
Country of origin: Italy
Capacity : 2 kg/2 min
Production/day : 2 Ton/Day
 Sequence of Printing (white package) :
White Package
↓
Bobbin injecting dyeing m/c
↓
M/c wash
↓
Neutralization
↓
Hot Wash (Temp: 90-950x20‟
↓
Cooling 8ox20‟
↓
Rinse & Drain 20‟
↓
Fixing 60x20‟, pH: 4.5-6)
↓
Drain & Unload
↓
Hydro Extractor
↓
Radio Frequency dryer
↓
Hard winding section
↓
Packing Section
Yarn Printing
82
Production Sequence & Operations:
LABORATORY:
Lab is the heart of the textile industry Higher precision lab can aid easily to achieve the goal of the
organization Before bulk production a sample for the approval from industry is sent to the buyer As
per the requirement of the buyer the shade is prepared in a lab considering the economic aspects .
LABORATORY STANDARD DYEING CURVE FOR COTTON:
▫
80 C × 10'
▫
60 C × 30'
▫ 1) Auxiliaries
35 C × 10'
2) Dyes
3) Glauber salt
1 2 3 4 5
Salt Alkali & acid requirement:

Dyestuff % <0.5 0.6 -1.0 1.10-2.0 2.10-3.0 3.10-5.0
Glauber Salt g /L 20 30 40 50 60
Soda ash g /L 10 10 15 15 20
Acetic Acid Ml 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM
Quality is always a vital parameter for customers‟ satisfaction. o matter what is the job you perform,
but your contribution is also a matter of fact. Here the top management is concerned about that & thus
build up a reasonable “Quality Control” department.
Task(s) of Q.C. Department:
Initial check Final Check

 
 
Strength Strength
 
Count (specially of mélange) Shade (both of yarn & fabric)

T.P.I (specially of mélange) Fastness (wash & rubbing)
Evenness of dyeing Layer check Waxing
check
83
Chapter 12
All Over Printing
84
Office QC Table
Exit
Office
Cont.
Washing
Machine/ Color
goller kitchen
Washing Rotary
Printing n
Stenter Machine
Dyeing Machine
Section Machine
Compac
tor
Loop Sample
Steamer Section
Machine
Entry
Fig: Layout of AOP section (KCP)
85
ALL OVER PRINTING (AOP) SECTION
Various types of printings are done in Knit Concern Ltd. Most of them are done in regular basis and
few of them are in under development. Types are given below-
1. Pigment Printing
2. Reactive Printing
3. Discharge Printing
4. Burn-out Printing
5. White paste Printing
6. Disperse Printing
7. Acid Printing
Disperse & acid printing are in under development.
Machines used for printing:
1. Rotary printing machine:
- Electrical adjustment of squeegee angle. Range 20°
- Penetration of color adjustable by contact pressure.
- Permanent magnet system.
- Main parts of this machine are rotary screens, blades, rods, drier etc.
- 3 types of rotary screens are used here. The screen diameter is related to the repeat size of
the design. Available repeat sizes are- 64cm, 81.9cm & 91.4cm.
- Different sizes of rods are also used which depends on the fabric type or dye type.
- For reactive printing- 20mm (diameter)
- For burn-out printing- 16mm (diameter)
Mesh: Number of holes per linear inch in a screen. 60, 80, 100, 125, 135, 155, 195 meshes are found
here.
Types of printing Mesh required
Reactive printing 80, 100, 125
Burn-out printing 80-100
Pigment printing As per requirement
Discharge printing As per requirement
For finer design Should be high as possible
2. Continuous washing machine:

- Fabric washing is done in open width form.
- It has 12 chambers & 8 dosing pumps.
- First four chambers are for cold washing. Temperature ranges from 0-30°C. Acetic acid is
used here.
- From 5th to 9th chamber temperature rises. For turquish (75-80°C), for dark colors like navy,
black, red 100°C. Detergent, soda are used here.
- Padders are found from 10th to 12th chambers. Fixing agent is used here.
3. Stenter
4. Loop steamer machine: Three functions of it
- Steaming (102°C)
- Curing (120-160°C)
- Super steaming (105°C)
5. Compactor
86
Specifications of machines:
Rotary printing Loop steamer Compactor m/c

m/c machine Stenter m/c
Machine no. : Brand name: Brand: Bruckner Brand: Bruckner

1775 Salvade´ Type: (Thermo oil) Type: power-
Type: VPM Type: power pad compakt-combi
R62400/12/12R Serial no.: Order no: 4.3502 Order no: 4.3503
Year of 90207 Year of
construction: 2010 Year of construction:
Origin: manufacture: 2010
Switzerland 2010 Origin: Germany
Dryer: D4 Origin: Italy
RL25/6/4RS
General printing process sequence:
Creation of design
Screen preparation
Print paste preparation
Printing
After printing process
Creation of design:
At first a file is provided by the buyer. Here repetition, no of color, type of fabric is also
mentioned by the buyer. Buyer generally do not mention the printing type. Design is created with the
help of a software.
Screen preparation:
Sketch making
Polymerizing (at 180°C, 2.5-3 hours)
Coating
Drying (at 60°C, 30-40 min)
87
Laser exposing (12-27 min)
Dipping in water (10-15 min)
Washing by water spraying
Curing (at 180°C, 3 hours)
End ring setting
Pigment Printing:
It can be used in all types of fabric. Hand feel of this type of printed fabric is a little bit harsh.
Paste ingredients are-
1. Binder
2. Fixer (cross linking agent)
3. Thickener (controll the viscosity of the paste)
4. Ammonia (maintain pH)
5. Urea (hygroscopic agent)
6. Glycerin (remove screen oiliness)
7. Emulsifier (preventing the formation of layer of color on the screen)
Printing process sequence-
Printing Curing Stentering (apply softener) Compacting
Dryer temperature- 140-150°C
Reactive Printing:
It can be applied on cotton fabric & its derivatives (modal, viscose, rayon etc). Paste
ingredients are-
1. Sodium alginate (works as bimder & thickener)
2. Resist salt (acid liberting agent)
3. Urea (hygroscopic agent)
4. Soda ash (for deep shade printing)
5. Water
Printing Steaming Washing Stentering (apply softener) Compacting Dryer
temperature- 120°C
Discharge Printing:
It is actually light color printing on a ground having dark color. The ground dark color must be dyed
with dischargeable dyes. It is applied on cotton, CVC fabrics.
1. Dischargeable paste (DC 35)
2. Reducing agent
3. Urea
4. Binder
5. Fixer
6. Glycerine
7. Dyes (usually pigment dyes)
88
Printing Curing (more than 150°C for more than 5 min) Washing (if necessary) Stentering
(apply softener) Compacting
Dryer temperature-
Burn-out Printing:
It is applied on CVC & PC fabrics.
1. Aluminium sulphate (base chemical)
2. Fixozen
3. Soaping agent
Printing Curing (if necessary) Washing (in winch m/c) Stentering (apply softener)
Dryer temperature- 150°C
For normal burn-out fabric, dyeing is done after printing.
For dyed burn-out fabric, dyeing is done before printing.
Disperse printing:
It can be applied only on polyester fabric. But in case of light shade, can also be applied on nylon
fabric.
1. Dyes
2. Thickener or gum
3. Urea (if necessary)
Printing Super steaming (180°C, 10-15 min) Washing (2 times) Stentering
Compacting
Acid Printing:
It can be applied on polyamide fabrics such as nylon, wool etc.
1. Lyoprint RDBC
2. Leveling agent
3. Buffering agent
4. Acid dyes Printing
process sequence-
Printing Steaming (105°C, 20 min) Washing Stentering
(apply synthetic type of softener) Compacting
Miscelleneous: Fig: pigment printing sample.
Special feature of this sample is, here we can see four colors in the design but actually one color is
used here. This is done by creating variation of mesh number on screen which allows the penetration
of dye in different amounts at different places as per design requirement. Only black color is used here
and effect of light grey, dark grey, white colors are seen here including black also.
89
Types of printing Samples
Pigment printing
Reactive printing
Discharge printing
Burn-out printing
Disperse printing
Acid printing
90
Chapter 13
Quality Control Lab
91
QUALITY CONTROL LAB (Physical Lab):
For controlling the quality of fabric, different types of physical tests are carried out. This
chapter contains a brief discussion about those tests. These tests are actually done before
entering the garments section. For garments making a fabric has to pass these tests for
quality assurance. Washing & drying machines are required for several tests like measuring
shrinkage, spiraled, twisting, color fastness to wash etc.
Machine names No of machines

Washing machine 6
Rota wash machine 1
Tumble dryer 3
Quick wash machine 2
Incubator 1
Specification of washing machines:
Model no Brand name Origin Manufacturer Capacity(in

terms of
garments)
W555H Electrolux Sweden SDL ATLAS 2
Specification of tumble dryers:
Model no Brand name Origin Manufacturer

T5130 Electrolux Sweden __
T4130 Electrolux Sweden SDL
LD1021 Electrolux UK SDL
Method of drying is used according to buyer recommendation:

Three types are available-
1. Tumble drying (high temperature drying)
2. Flat/deep drying ( drying by spreading the fabric on the ground )
3. Line drying ( naturally drying by hanging the fabric on a hanger )
92
Figures:
Time of washing against different temperature :
Washing temperature ( °C) Time of washing (minutes)

30 40
40 40
60 50
Detergent used for washing :

Brand name: Persil
Origin: Vietnam
Amount of detergent used :
For K&L buyer: 15g
For other buyer: 10g
Color fastness to washing :

Used method: EN ISO 105-C06 (C2S)
Shade changing & staining of color due to washing is assessed here.
Process:
Washing Drying Rating the changes by Grey Scale
A multi-fiber fabric (10cm x 4cm) is added with the sample fabric to measure the staining.
Color change of the sample fabric is measured by comparing with the standard fabric. Rating
is given by using grey scale for both staining & color change. For cross staining measurement
a cross staining fabric is used with the sample fabric. Grey scale is also used.
In case of dyed yarn washing process is different. But assessment process is all the same.
So washing recipe & process is given here-
Recipe:
Sample wt. – 0.8gm - 1gm
Sodium perborate – 1g/l
Soda ash - 2.2g/l
ECE phosphate - 4g/l
Temperature - 60°C
Time - 30 minutes
93
Principle:
1. 1 gm. or 0.8 gm. yarn is taken as specimen.
2. ECE detergent, sodium perborate, soda ash and required amount of water are taken in a
pot of Rota wash machine to make 30 ml solution.
3. Then a piece of multi-fiber fabric (10cm x 4cm) and 25 steel balls are given in the pot.
4. After that the pot is closed tightly, insert it into the machine.
5. At 60°C temperature the yarn is treated for 30 min.
6. Finally shade change and staining are measured by grey scale for shade change and grey
scale for staining respectively.
Dimensional change/ shrinkage testing :

Used method: ISO 3759/ ISO5077/ ISO 6330
Procedure:
The measurement of length, width, sleeve of a garment is taken before washing and the
same measurements are taken after washing. Then the shrinkage of garment is calculated in
terms of percentage.
Measurement of different product :
Products Length(cm) Width(cm) Sleeve(cm)

Kids products 44 35 15
Adult products 50 44 20
Shrinkage result range for different buyer:
Shrinkage H& JULES OKAIDI C//LADIES WE- K&L PHILDER

M WOMEN
Lengthwise 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% 6%
Widthwise 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% 4%
Twisting testing :
Used method: AATCC-179
Principle: The deflection of seam line in bottom after washing is measured and expressed in
percentage or directly in cm. The deflection is measured by tape.
Twisting range: 1-5%
Twisting range of different buyer:
H JULE OKAIDI Ca WE- K&L PHILDER

&M S LADIES WOME
N
3% 3% 2%(solid) < 3% 3% 5% 2%
1%(Y/D)
94
Figure:
Spirality testing:
Used method: AATCC- 179
Procedure:
1. Four marks (A, B, C and D) are given on front or back part of a garments using specific
template.
2. Then a garment is washed in a washing machine.
3. After washing, diagonal distances (AC and BD) between marks (A and C) and (B and D)
are measured by measuring tape.
4. And finally, we can measure spirality easily by using following equation.
Spirality = 2 (AC–BD) / (AC+BD) x 100 %
Rubbing fastness testing:

Used method: EN ISO 105X12
Dry rubbing principle:
The conditioned rubbing cloth is placed over the rubbing figure. At a rate of one cycle per
second, to and fro in a straight line 20 times, 10 times to and 10 times for, along a track
(104±3) mm long on the dry specimen is rubbed with a downward force. The staining of the
rubbing cloth is assessed by comparison with the grey scale for staining.
Wet rubbing principle:
The rubbing cloth is soaked with distilled water and reweigh to ensure take-up of
95% to 100%. The rubbing cloth is dried and the staining of the rubbing cloth is assessed by
comparison with the grey scale for staining.
95
Specification of machine:
Machine name: Hand driven Crock master
Model: 670
Manufacturer: James H. Heal & LTD
Origin: Halifax, England
Rubbing cloth: SDL, UK
Rubbing requirement of different buyer:
Test H& JULES OKAIDI C//LADIES WE- K&L PHILDER

M WOMEN
Color Dry Dry 4 Dry-4 Dry->3-4 Dry- Dry -4 Dry >3-4
fastness to 34 4(dark)
rubbing Wet 34 Wet4(medium) Wet- 2- Wet2- Wet >3-4
Wet- 3(dark) 3(medium)
3(dark)
Pilling fastness testing:

Used method: EN ISO 12945-1
Procedure:
1. The sample is cut according to template size (12cm× 12cm).
2. The sample is then sewn so as to be a firm fit when placed round a rubber tube.
3. Such four tubes are placed in a box of machine which contains four boxes.
4. The machine is rotated at 60 rpm and the cycle is determined according to buyer
recommendation.
5. After pre-set cycle, the extent of pilling is assessed by using pilling scale.
Buyer name Recommended cycle Required rating

H&M 14400 3
Ca Ladies 10800 >3-4
K&L 10800 3-4
Okaidi 14400 3-4
WE-Women 10800 3
Machine name: Pilling and snagging tester
Brand name: Orbitor
Manufacturer: James H. Heal & LTD
Origin: Halifax, England
96
Sublimation fastness testing:
Used method: EN ISO X11
Process: sublimation fastness is checked in three condition.
-Dry
-Dam
-Wet
Dry process:
The upper and lower fabrics, the sample which fastness to be checked are in dry condition.
The press time is 15-20 seconds and temperature according to buyer recommendation.
Dam process:
The upper fabric is half wetted and others are in dry condition. The press time is 15 second.
Wet process:
The fabric is fully wetted and others are in dry condition.
Lower fabric: High GSM fabric.
Upper fabric: white, 100% cotton, 100-120 GSM
Machine name: Sublimation tester
Brand name: ATLAS SCORCH Tester
Manufacturer: SDL
Model: K247
Origin: UK
Fastness testing to-

1. Perspiration
2. Saliva
3. Water
Procedure:
For these tests, procedure is all the same only the solutions are different in which the fabric
is immersed. Specimens of textiles in contact with adjacent fabrics are treated in solutions
containing & placed between two plates under a specified pressure in a test device. The
specimens and the adjacent fabrics are dried separately. The change in color of the
specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed by comparison with the grey
scales.
Sample size: 10cm×4cm
Treating in solutions:
Temperature: Room temperature
Time: 30 minutes
M: L ratio: 1:50
Pressure application: (in oven)
Temperature: 37±2 °C
97
Time: 4 hours
Pressure: 4.5 Kg
Drying temperature: 60-70 °C
Fastness to perspiration-
Used method: EN ISO E04
Immersion Recipe:
Chemicals Acidic perspiration solution Alkaline perspiration

solution
L-histidine 0.5 g/l 0.5 g/l
monohydrochloride
monohydrate
di-sodium hydrogen 2.2 g/l 2.5 g/l
orthophosphate di-hydrate
Sodium chloride 5 g/l 5 g/l
Distilled water 1000 ml 1000 ml
pH 5.5 8.0
Fastness to saliva-
Used method: GB/T 18886
Immesion recipe (Composition of saliva solution):
Chemicals Amount( g/l)

Lactic acid 3
Carbamide 0.2
Sodium chloride 4.5
Potassium chloride 0.3
Sodium sulphide 0.3
Ammonium chloride 0.4
Water fastness test:

Used method: EN ISO E01
Here, only water is used as a solution & the process is carried out as stated for the above
tests.
Bursting strength test: Used
method: ISO 13938:2 1999
Procedure:
1. Then fabric is clamped tightly
2. Fabric is kept into the dome of the machine.
3. By using air pressure fabric is bursted
4. At least 5 readings are taken and result is average of 5 readings
98
Machine Specification:
Machine name: Bursting Strength tester
Brand: Tru Burst ²
Manufacturer: James H Heal & co. Ltd
Origin: Halifix, England
Range: 1000 KPa
Fabric pH:
Used method: ISO 3071
Procedure:
1. 2 gm fabric is cut into small pieces (minimum 10 pieces) and soaked in 100ml
distilled water in a conical flask.
2. Then the solution is shaken for 2 hours.
3. After 2 hours the solution is filtered by filter paper.
4. Then the pH of solution is measured by pH meter at 23 °C.
Machine Specification:
Machine name: pH meter BT-600
Brand: BOECO
Origin: Germany
pH electrode: BA-25
Origin: Germany.
Formaldehyde test:
Used method:
1. 14184-1( international method, for adult)
Sample: 1 gm fabric
2. 1041-1983, opt (A) (Japanese method, for
kids)
Sample: 2.5 gm fabric
Procedure:
1. 1 gm fabric is cut into small pieces (minimum 10 pieces) and soaked in 100ml distilled
water in a conical flask.
2. The conical flask is kept in a water bath at 40°C for 60 minutes.
3. Then cooling is done at room temperature (20-25°C) for 25 minutes.
4. The fabric liquid is filtered by filter paper.
5. From the liquid 5ml liquid is taken and 5ml Nash reagent is added in that liquid and
taken in a test tube.
6. Then the test tube is kept in a water bath for 30 minutes at 40°C.
7. After 30 minutes the liquid is cooled down at room temperature for 20 minutes.
8. Then two test tube is taken containing two solution....
-5ml distilled water + 5ml Nash reagent (1st solution)
-5ml liquid +5ml Nash reagent (2nd solution)
99
5. The solution is then kept inside the machine accordingly and the machine finally gives
the result in ppm.
Nash Reagent:
Ammonium acetate- 75 gm
Acetic acid- 1.5 ml
Acetyl acetone- 1 ml
Water- 497.5 ml
Formaldehyde result range:
For kids- <15 ppm
For adult- <75ppm
Machine specification:
1. Machine name: UV/VIS Spectrometer
Brand name: Perkin Elmer
Model: Lambda 25
Origin: USA
2. Machine name: Digital thermoplast water bath
Origin: China
3. Machine name: Shaker
Origin: China
Phenol yellowing test:

Used method: ISO 105-X18
Ingredients:
Phenol yellowing test paper, glass plate, control fabric & sample.
Control fabric determines whether the test is ok or not. If the control fabric is yellowish then
the test is ok.
Procedure:
1. At first, a sample is folded by a test paper & placed between two glass plates. Then a
control fabric wrapped by a test paper & placed over the glass plate. Further 4
samples are put in the glass plates in the same way. In total 5 samples are inserted in
the glass plates.
2. Covering all the plates with polythene to make it airtight.
3. Put it in oven at 50C for 16 hours.
4. Then cooling should be done for 30 min
5. Grading must be done within that 30 min otherwise correct assessment is not
possible. Grading is done by comparing the fabric before test & after test.
100
Chapter 14
Washing
101
102
Machine in washing unit:
1. Machine name: Tumble Dryer

Brand name: TRIVENETA
Origin: Italy
Serial No. : 08387
Year: 2008
Volt. : 400
Number of tumble dryer: 12
2. Machine name: Hydro extractor

Brand name: Chungmoo.
Origin: Korea
Number of Machine: 5
3. Machine name:
Pigment Dyeing Machine
Brand name: TONELLO
Origin: Italy
4. Machine name:
Garments Dyeing & Washing
Machine
Brand name: SUTLICK
Origin: Hong Kong
103
Machine wash:
Machine is washed with Hydrose (3g/l), caustic (1g/l), and soda ash (2g/l) at 98 for 30
minutes to 2.5 hours
Water is drained
Rinsing
Hot wash at 70-80C
Neutralization with acetic acid (0.5-1 g/l) at 60-70C for 5 minutes
Normal wash
Washing:
There are different types of wash that is done in this washing section.
 Normal wash: At normal temperature for 1-5 mins.

 Garment wash: At normal temperature with softener for 5 mins
 Panel wash: At normal temperature with softener for 10-30 mins
 Enzyme wash: Acetic acid 0.4 g/l and enzyme 0.4-0.5 g/l at 55C for 25 mins.
 Silicone wash: Silicone softener 2 g/l and softener 1g/l at normal temp. for 10 mins.
 Dry hand feel wash: Use hardener.
 Soft hand feel wash: Use softener
 Detergent wash: Use detergent
 Burn out wash:
Asu salt 12gm in 1.6 liter at normal temperature for 5mins
Hydro
Drying (80℃ X 50 min)
Scouring (70-80C X 3-5mins)
Normal wash
Softener for 2mins
Unload
 Acid wash:
Sand and KMnO4 (300-500gm) at normal temperature
1-2 minutes run time
104
Water (100 liter) and Meta (0.5-1 g/l) at normal temperature for 10-15 mins
Normal wash 2 times
Softener (3g/l) and run time 7-10 mins
 Antique wash ( vintage wash):

Soda ash (0.5g/l) and caustic (0.2 g/l)
Run time (70C X 30 mins)
Drain
Normal wash
Hot wash (70C X 5 mins)
Normal wash
Neutralization with acetic acid (0.5 g/l) for 5 mins
Normal wash
Softener for 2 mins
Unload
Dyeing:
 Dip dyeing:
Garment is hang on a hanger and dipped in dye solution at 60 c (for reactive dyes) and at 80C
(For terquish color) for 30-40 mins
Normal wash
Neutralization with acetic acid (0.5 g/l) at 40℃ for 2-3 mins
Normal wash
Fixing (Albafix ECO 0.5 g/l) at normal temperature for 5 mins
Normal wash
Softener (1 g/l) for 30 sec- 1 min
105
 Tie Dyeing:
Tie knots in garments
Reactive Dye hot brand 7% shade, salt 80gm, soda 5gm, caustic 1gm, water 5 liter at 70C
Dyeing for 20mins
Normal Wash
Open knots
Acid wash for 1min
Fixing for 3mins
Use Softener
Hydro
Drying for 10 mins
 Pigment Dyeing:
Neutral Garments with Acid at 60℃for 0.5g/l
Normal wash
Mordiente- PIM (mordant) 20 litre normal temperature for 20 mins
Dye ASUP-Black EB normal temperature for 10 mins
Dyeing (60℃ X 5mins)
Fixing (80℃ X 10min)
Drain with rotation
Normal wash
Drain with rotation
Acid+ Enzyme (50℃ X 4mins)
Normal Wash 1min
Drying
106
 Cold dyeing:
Hot wash with 0.3 g/l acetic acid at 70℃ for 5 mins
Normal wash
Dyeing with cold dyes for 10 minutes at normal temperature
Salt (40 g/l) is added for run time 5 mins
1 g/l Mibafor AD is added and run time 5 mins
Mibafor RA 5 mins dosing and run time 30 mins
Drain
Normal wash (4 times)
0.4 g/l acetic acid and 0.5 g/l enzyme at 55℃ for 3 mins
Unload
 Oil dyeing:
Asuprend WS (20g/l) and dyes are mixed at normal temperature
Dyeing for 10 mins
Hydro extraction
Curing at 110℃ for 1 hour
0.4 g/l acetic acid and 0.5 g/l enzyme at 55℃ for 3 mins
ASUMINC-ESCAMAS softener 1g/l and silicone softener 2g/l for 1 min at normal
temperature
Drying
 Gel dyeing:
Compound Neutro Gel/ Compound Blue Jeans (1%owf) and dyes are mixed
Applied on garment
Air dry
107
Curing at 125℃ for 1 hour
Asu-Fix FPI 2 g/l at 60C for 5 mins
ASUMINC-ESCAMAS softener 1g/l and silicone softener 2g/l for 1 minute at normal
temperature
Hydro
Drying
 Neon dyeing:
Fabric, dyes and water are added at 40℃ and run time 10 mins
↓
Then temperature is raised to 60℃ and run time 15 mins at 60℃
↓
Sample check
↓
Rinse
↓
Drain
↓
Normal wash
↓
New water, fabric and binder (Albatex binder) are added in bath
↓
Run time 10 mins
Drain
Enzyme:
Water, fabric and acetic acid (0.3-0.5 g/l) are added at normal temperature
pH (4.5-5.5) is checked
Temperature is raised to 60℃ and after 5 mins sample is checked
Then run time 55 mins at 60℃
Rinse
Drain
Normal wash
108
Chapter 15
Knitting
109
110
Layout of New Knitting Section
111
Knitting:
Knitting section includes 3 floors.
Machines:
Knitting machines
S/J D/J Stripe
Normal Terry/Fleece/Heavy Rib Interlock Feeder Auto stripe
Pointer Plaiter
Type of yarn used:
100% cotton Grey Melange (5% Viscose)

PC (65%+35%) Slub Yarn
Lycra Nylon
Grey Melange (15% Viscose) Roica Spandex
Ecru Melange (1% viscose) Grey Melange (30% Viscose)
100% Organic cotton 100% Modal Tencel Carded
CVC (Sl) (60%+40%) 100% Viscose
Fabric knitted:
S/J derivatives D/J derivatives

Normal S/J 1×1 rib
Single Lacoste 2×1 rib
Double lactose 2×2 rib
Single pique 3×1 rib
Double pique 1×1 interlock
Section overview:
Floor No of m/c Type of fabric construction

1st 48 S/J (Terry)
2nd 63 S/J ,Rib,Slub,Fleece
3rd 33 Rib,S/J (Lycra)
112
Production calculation:
• Production ( kg/day ) =
• Normal s/j or lacoste or pk (kg) =
• For fleece:
Binder/base/loop( kg) =
Total (kg) = Binder + Base + Loop
• For rib :
- 1×1 rib: No of needle = Where, D = m/c dia
- 2×1 rib: No of needle =
G = m/c gauge
- 3×2 rib: No of needle =
Production (kg) =
• For interlock : No of needle =
Production (kg) =
• Lycra % :
Lycra s/l =
S/J: Lycra, W
Lycra % = ×100 %
D/J: Lycra, W1=
Lycra % = ×100
113
Knitting faults:
Needle mark Slub

Stripe Thick & thin place
Contamination & fly Birds eye
Sinker mark Pin hole
Crease line Missing yarn
Hole , Dirt Oil stain
Samples of some fabric:
Plain Single Jersey 1×1 Rib Polo pique
Interlock Fleece Flat back rib
114
Chapter 16
Garments Section
115
Skill Development Center:
 Knit Concern places all of its newcomer workforce members on compulsory basic and
job specific training programs at its well-equipped training center. On average, more

than 120 people are recruited and trained here every month.
On average there 109 sewing machines are available in this section. Basically 3 types
of machines are used.
o Plain machine
 Auto
 Manual
o Over lock (Four thread)

o Lock stich (Five thread)
 Flat bed
 Cylinder bed
 Flatbed machines are normally used for production of piping, back tape etc. Cylinder
bed machines are normally used for hemming, arm hold, top seam etc.
116
Design and Research Center:
The Buzzword- `we listen to you until we think like you’ – is the conventional norm of Knit
Concern. And so, it maintains continuous communication from beginning to end while serving
a customer.
To keep pace with the ever-changing taste of people worldwide, Knit Concern has geared itself
with a handpicked group of elite class designers who have exposure to the latest international
design concepts, hottest computerized graphic equipment and software including computer
aided designing system of the Lectra of France and Gerber of USA. It acts on the basic premise
that `fashion is an exploration into the images people wish to convey – about themselves and
the way they live’.
117
Pattern and Marker making:
 To resemble manual pattern making methods, Pattern Expert has introduced very
powerful drafting tools such as various type of guide line, powerful parallel line tool,
rotate/flip tool, trim/extend tool and simple copy/paste operation. Style CAD boasts the
best curve quality among all CAD programs. Plotted curve quality is simply outstanding
and has earned praises from users all over the world. Most curves are represented
beautifully with just 2-4 curve points and the dragging behavior seems very natural to
the user. Unlike some of the industry leading products, Style CAD uses double precision
floating point numbers internally to store data and the result is the most accuracy
possible. Everywhere you look, Style CAD is packed with time saving ideas. Typical
time-consuming operations such as adding darts, curve blending, seams, manipulating
seam corners and notches can be done in seconds.
 The most efficient Marker Making & Auto Nesting Software in the market. Cost
Saving, Fabric Saving & Time Saving Auto Nesting Software. Fabric represents a big
part of the cost of manufacturing a garment. There is no other area in production that
can provide substantial cost savings as easily as fabric control. Fabric contributes
approximately 60-70% to the overall cost of the garment. Style CAD marker making
system uses the most cutting-edge technology to increase efficiency, reduce costs, and
increase productivity when creating markers. It also allows the user to use a wide array
of automatic cutting machines for use with the system. In addition, the user may quickly
and easily set the cut direction and sequence control for pieces before cutting. The user
may also set the lay direction by bundle, size, or one way. This allows for a completely
customizable marking experience. Style CAD has introduced a system for creating
markers that is unmatched in its cost saving benefits. With ease of use and efficiency in
the creation of fabric-saving markers, Our Maker Making tools have uncompetitive
edge over other software’s Marker Making system also includes fabric pattern matching
control, which allows users to correctly create pieces using fabric that has plaids,
stripes, and 5-point references. This is perfect for any industry that requires matching
fabrics on various pieces to one another.
 Knit Concern utilizes the latest computer aided systems to develop patterns and markers
to thrive to ensure each piece of apparel it makes would be an identical reproduction of
the approved samples and the fabrics it uses to make those apparel would leave the
minimum wastage possible.
118
Pattern & Marker Making Machinery:
Name Brand Origin QTY.

Lectra France 1
Digitizer M/C Gerber USA 1
Winda China 4
Gerber USA 2
Ploter M/C Winda CHINA 8
IMA Italy 1
Gerber Japan 1
Pattern Cutter
Winda China 4
Pattern making
Cutting Section
To fabric cut out pattern pieces of garment components as per exact dimension of the patterns
from a fabric lay is called fabric cutting. It is totally different from general cutting in which
exact dimension is not taken into account. The term fabric cutting is only applicable for
garments manufacturing technology.
Summary Working Procedure in Cutting Section:
 Follow production planning.

 Sample collect from sample section with pattern and garments approved.
 Lay order sheet/ratio sheet fill up by cutting section (fabric width, Item, Color etc.).
 Lay order sheet fill up ok then send to cad section for marker making.
 Marker making ok.
 Fabric requisition from cutting section to store for cutting according to plan.
 Fabric is coming in cutting table as per marker and cutting plan.
119
 Fabric matches to trim card by merchandiser approved fabric width & length as per
marker.
 Then layering starts manual & machines all fabric. Pocketing and interlining.
 After lay then spread marker upon on the fabric.

 Marker check by pattern in quality people.
 Keep all document make & style. Color. And size wise send report to store & sewing
line.
 Before cutting cutter man attach clamp. Gum tap on the layer.
 If marker have drill mark then need to drill.
 Cutting start by cutter man.
 Then group and ratio wise stricken.
 As per lay order sheet make bundle chart and send to i.e. Section for bundle card
printing.
 As per bundle chart wise numbering.
 Then panel check.
 If have any fault need to replace cut bundle roll and shad wise then bundle and send to
line by input girl.
 If have any fusing, embroidery than send to this section.

 Sticker Tagging:
 After complete the cutting, the fabric is tagging by the sticker. The sticker tagging is
an important part in this section. Due to fabric numbering or batching the sticker is tag
on the cutting fabric surface.
 Sticker Tagging:
 After complete the cutting, the fabric is tagging by the sticker. The sticker tagging is
an important part in this section. Due to fabric numbering or batching the sticker is tag
on the cutting fabric surface.
 Bundling:
 After cutting the fabric lay and tagging the sticker, all the garments components in
stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better
to use code number on each pattern.
Sewing Process
The basic process of sewing involves fastening of fabric, leather, furs or similar other flexible
materials with the help of needle and threads. Sewing is mainly used to manufacture clothing,
home furnishing .In fact, sewing is one of the important processes in apparel making. Most of
such industrial sewing is done by industrial sewing machines.
120
Process Flowchart of Apparel sewing:
Sewing Representative
Book entry
Line (100 pcs)
Rack
Requisition (color/size etc.)
Supervision
Sub store (care and size label)
Checking table
OK for finishing (normally 10% wastage)
Sewing Floor
121
Apparel printing and Finishing
From the sewing section, the garments are brought to the printing section and then finishing
section. There are different types of printing techniques. Screen printing and heat press
transfer printing are commonly seen in knit concern ltd.
SCREEN PRINTING – It’s the most commonly used method for t-shirt printing. It uses screens
pressed up against cloth to place paint onto shirts one color per screen. Each press uses a single
color, so that means that for a t-shirt design that has 5 colors, you will need 5 separate screens.
Screen printing is high quality, professional looking, durable, and can be very price effective
on volume orders. Some cons might be the fact that it’s messy to work with many screens, and
if you want to do one t-shirt or two, that’s definitely not the right choice for printing. Also,
screen printing has setup fees, depending on the number of the color screens to be burned.
Concerning the colors of the t-shirt, if you want to print on dark t-shirts, there is a white under
base that needs printed first.
HEAT PRESS TRANSFER PRINTING – is probably the best choice for a small business, and we
are not talking here about starting a clothing line. The heat press transfer technique consists
on printing a transparent ink with the use of a computer on a special piece of paper (Inkjet
transfer paper). Full color images and of a very high quality can be printed, then applied to
the cotton garment and pressed in the heat press. The usual temperature is 180 degrees for
10 – 30 seconds. With the heat transfer, you can print complex designs, with many colors. The
advantage is that the olo s don t e ui e to e applied separately. The heat press transfer is
ideal for creating fast customized t-shirts. The bad thing is that the colored picture can be
applied only on light t-shirts, because the colors in the design might be affected by the t-shirt
olo . Even that it s fast and easy to print a t-shirt with the heat press transfer, the feel on
transfer is heavy, and it cracks easily.
After printing, Curing is done to fix the print on the apparel.
Knit concern has been Equipped with necessary machinery needed for firm to screen
developments; it has the ability to print in pigment, silicon puff, Flock, Glitter, Metal Stone and
Rubber techniques. It can print 1, 00,000 pieces of apparel per day, per design, in up to 12
colors together.
Apparel Finishing: The finishing sections of Knit Concern Group have 270 sets of Steam
Press Irons with Vacuum Tables of NAOMOTO brand from Japan. Other finishing machineries
include needle search machines from CINTEX and LOCK from UK as well as Thread Blowing,
Stain Removing, Carton Box Striping, Fusing and other necessary equipment and devices.
122
Quality Assurance and Product Safety
Quality Assurance & Product Safety is one of Knit Concern's main focuses that starts
functioning right following the acceptance of an order.
Its well-trained quality inspectors check at every stage of manufacturing process to maintain
high standards of product quality. Needle Detector and Button pull Test etc machines are used
to ensure product safety. For all of children's wear and other wears, Knit Concern applies its
safety principles with equal importance.
Requirement for quality system (R.Q.S.) team is independently working on behalf of the buyers
of Knit Concern Group.
It uses 4-pont Checking System for fabric inspection and Traffic Light System for sewing
processes. Knit Concern maintains any AQL standard as desired by its buyers.
Quality Checking
Accessories:
Accessories: Except the main body fabric, all the items used to fulfill a garments are called
accessories. They are mainly of two types
 Sewing accessories: Accessories used in the sewing section are the sewing
accessories. Sewing thread, button and all types of label such as care label, size label

etc are the common example.
Finishing accessories: the items used in the finishing section to fulfill a garment are
the finishing accessories. Price ticket, hanger, poly, hang tag are some of finishing
accessories.
123
The accessories dept. of Knit concern normally take 7-10 days from sourcing to delivery.
Buyer of accessories: Supplier of accessories:

 Texeurope(OKAIDI & 

Next Accessories
Obaibi) Mahin Label
 H&M 
 K&L 
Mentrims
YKK Bb
 Jules  Avery BD
Industrial Engineering
Pulling together the group heads in matrix technique, industrial and systems engineering are
conducted in Knit Concern while designing, developing and fine tuning the production and
other operational systems are conducted in an well concerted approach. Integrated components
of people, machines and facilities are carefully analyzed and synchronized to create efficient
and effective systems that produce goods and services beneficial to the mankind in the best
possible ways improving productivity and quality but conforming to the competitive pricing
requirements by eliminating wastes of time, money, materials, energy, and other resources, and
by avoiding pressure on the environment as well.
It has given the entire Knit Concern family an attitude like learn about the ultimate objective
and approach before doing anything.
Work study: It is a technique to achieve higher efficiency. It is the analysis of the operations
required to produce a style.
Importance:
 To reduce unnecessary work.
 Lower cost
 Reduce time
 Increase productivity and profitability
 Maximum uses of resources.
Tools of work study:
Work study
Method Work measurement
study
Record to Seek best Time Synthesis
compare methods study
Higher Improved Planning
productivity
124
Flow Chart of Work Study in Garment Industry
Select
(Work which can be studied with economic advantage)
↓
Record
(All facts about the operation)
↓
Examine
(The facts critically seek alternatives, simplify, eliminate, combine or change)
↓
Develop
(A record of an improved method under prevailing conditions reexamine and select best
method)
↓
Evaluate
(Evaluate different alternatives to developing a new improved method comparing the
cost-effectiveness)
↓
Define
(Method, procedure, layout, equipment working conditions, materials, quality
instructions)
↓
Install
(The improve method, plan arrange and implement)
↓
Maintain
(Verify at regular intervals that the improved is in use)
Work measurement: it is the application of techniques to establish the time for a qualified
worker to carry out a specified work at a defined level of performance. It is an important part
of work study. Basically, it assesses the human effectiveness.
Time study: Time study is a work measurement technique for recording the time of
performing a certain/specified conditions and for analyzing the data so as to obtain time
necessary for an operator to carry out at a define rate of performance.
Objective of Time Study:
1. The job in question a new one, not previously carried out new product, component,
operations or set up activities.
2. A change in material or method of working has been made and new time standard is
required.
3. A complains has been received from a worker or workers representative about the time
standard of the operation.
4. A particular operation appears to be a bottleneck holding up sub-sequent operation and
possibly previous operations.
5. Standard times are required before an incentive scheme is introduced.
125
6. A piece of equipment appears to be idle for an excessive time or its output is low and if
therefore becomes necessary to be investigated the method of it uses.
7. The job needs studying as a preliminary to make a method study or to compare the
efficiency of two methods.
8. The cost of a particular job appears to be excessive as may be evidence by a Pareto type
analysis.
Conditions of Time Study:
 The practitioner (observer) must be fully qualified to carry out Time Study,
 The person performing the task must be fully trained and experienced in the work,
 The work must be clearly defined and the method of doing the work must be effective
 The working conditions must be clearly defined.
The equipment used for time study
 Stopwatch
 Clipboard
 Time study format
 Pencil
 Eraser
 Calculator
How to conduct Time Study?
An operation cycle consists of material handling, positioning and aligning parts, sewing,
trimming threads and tying and untying a bundle. So in the time study format, divide whole
task into various elements according to the motion sequences of the operation. For example, in
operation ‘collar run stitch’, task elements may be
i) pick up panel to sew first seam,
ii) Turn collar to sew second seam,
iii) Turn collar to sew third seam
iv) Check work and dispose and
v) Waiting for next pieces.
For time study, SMV or standard time is calculated.
SMV: SAM and SMV are units of measuring standard minutes of a task or an operation of a
garment. Where,
SAM stands for Standard Allowed Minutes and

SMV stands for Standard Minute Value.
126
An industrial engineer should follow the below formula for calculating SAM or SMV.
SAM = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + Machine and Personal allowances)…… (1)
Normally bundle allowances should be added 10% with basic time and Machine and Personal
allowances added 20% with basic time.
Basic time = Cycle time × Performance rating ………………. (2)
Method study: it is the systematic investigation of a a particular operation of function with the
objective of finding an improved way of achieving its objectives. It considers the interactions
between people, equipment, environment and attempts to increase efficiency and productivity,
while reducing the burden on the human operator.
Six step method: it is a six step method.


Specify precise objective
Define boundaries


Consider theoretical solutions
Collect data and propose options


Select best option
Introduce and monitor option
The work station design should be as follows:
1. Working methods (optimize manual operations)
2. Working equipment (improve machinery and technology)

3. Working conditions (provide ergonomic lay out)
Planning
Production Planning is one of the integral parts of any manufacturing unit. The process
complexities vary in degree depending upon the number of processes involved in the
production of desired product. With the globalization the sourcing process has become complex
as international boundaries are not a deterrent in conducting the business.
Production planning is a managerial function mainly concerned with the following issues.
 What production facilities are required?

 Layout of production facility to be laid out in the space available for the production
 Desired product at the desired rate of production
Production planning has a dynamic nature and has to be changed according to the changes in
circumstances. Any deviation from the planned parameters as perceived during the initial
planning i.e. Machine breakdown, change in raw material, change in demand, change in
requirement etc will lead to the change in plan.
Production planning is done in long term, medium term and short term. Long term planning is
127
important in capital intensive industries (cement, fertilizer etc) where capacity additions cannot
be done on a short notice. Medium term planning is done up to 2 years ahead to assess how
demand can be met from existing facility by utilizing resource optimally. Short term planning
is concerned to the day to day activities when plans are to be executed and corrective actions
taken after efficient monitoring.
Requirements of Production Planning
A production plan should be based on accurate data. Random calculation or guess works should
be avoided while planning as it can have a chain effect on the whole plan. Plans should be
flexible to accommodate any deviation from the conditions and situations as perceived during
planning. A rigid plan will be an accessory to fall as it may lead to compromises on various
fronts which may not be suitable for longer duration. Any plan should satisfy pre-defined
objectives like timely delivery, quality etc. Plan should be simple and straight forward with a
robust reporting system so that right information reaches at right place in right time.
Production Control
Production control is a mechanism to monitor the execution of plans. Production operation

should start at right time and the progress should be observed and recorded properly so that the
data can be analyzed and deviation can be measured to initiate a suitable action i.e. change in
plan. Corrective action should be taken immediately in order to minimize the negative impact
of deviation from the plan. There should be a feedback system in order to improve future plans.
In garment manufacturing where the final product and the input vary, challenges also come
from different unpredictable fronts. A robust control mechanism is essential to make the
planning successful.
Sample section
Layout plan
128
Departmental goal for sample section:
 Output per day to be enhanced: 275 pcs

 Sample fail maintain below 2%
 1st sample shall be the best sample for every stage
 We want to satisfy our customer by providing on time sample
Sample section flow chart:

Technical file
received from
merchandising
Pattern making
Fabric received Return to

from dyeing dyeing
Fabric
inspection
Okay Not okay
Cutting
Embroidery if Reject zone

required
Inspection
Okay Not okay
Accessories Sewing
received from
store
Qc inspection
Okay Not okay
Finishing
Sent to buyer
129
Merchandising
The merchandising Department of knit Concern Group is staffed with highly experienced
professionals who have the ultimate visualization and demonstration skills and techniques,
fabric and trimming knowledge, and right sourcing as well as costing and pricing efficiencies.
And so, effective and faster negotiation is an instant affair here.
Organogram of KCl merchandising:
Merchandising
director
Merchandising
manager
Asst.
merchandising
manager
Senior
merchandiser
Merchandiser
Asst. merchandiser
Trainee
merchandiser
130
Concept of Merchandising:
Merchandising
Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments.It is

the methods, practices, and operations used to promote and sustain certain categories of
commercial activity. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from
start to finish.
Merchandiser
The person who is related in merchandising is called merchandiser. The merchandiser

coordinates with the design team to effectively present the product or product line. He or she
develops colors and specifications, and performs market research to determine the most
effective ways to sell and promote the product.
A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:
Product Development
Market and product Analysis
Selling the concept
Booking orders
Confirming Deliveries
Designing and Sampling
Costing
Raw Material
Flow Monitoring
Production Follow Ups
Payments Follows
Internal & external communication,
Sampling
Lab dips
Accessories & trims
Preparing internal order sheets
131
Preparing purchase orders
Advising and assisting production,
Advising quality department about quality level
Mediating production and quality departments
Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
Helping documentation department
Taking responsibility for inspections and
Following up the shipment.
Role of merchandiser in garments business:
The main role of a garments merchandiser is to collect garments export order (Export L/C).
Produce the garments, export the garments and earn profit. To perform those functions
successfully needs lot of knowledge, experience and tremendous effort for a merchandiser.
To understand the role of merchandiser in garments business we need to see with whom the
merchandiser has to deal with in handling any order in the process or merchandising.
● Source of fiber to make fabric
● Cultivator and farmer to produce natural fiber, chemist, miners and industrialist to produce
artificial, synthetic and mineral fiber
● Processing industries to process fiber
● Marketing media and agents for marketing of fiber
● Spinning mills to produce yarn from fibers
● Fabric producing mills from yarn (weaving, knitting, felting, bonding mills etc)
● Marketing agents and media to do the marketing of fabrics
● Mills and industries to dye the fabrics
● Industries to produce dyes and chemicals for dyeing of yarns and fabrics
● Industries to give special effect to fabrics
● Various printing industries to do printing in fabrics and garments
● Industries to produce embroidery machine and embroidery machines to do embroidery
132
● Accessories producing industries
● Garments manufacturing factories
● Washing industries to wash the garments and to give special washing effects on garments
● Lab testing units to do all lab test on various parameter of garments.
● Various international inspecting authorities
Cargo carrying transport land, sea and air
● Consolidators Freight Forwarder and Stuffing agent
● Various Courier services to carry documents and samples (some time also limited cargo)
● Various insurance agencies all over the world to cover insurance of cargo
● Main buyer for garments with chain stores or whole sell store
● Buying agent and local media
● Whole seller of garments
● Retailer of garments either as a chain store or as regular outlet for selling the garments
● Customer or the ultimate user of garments
Chronologies of events of merchandiser:
● Sourcing of buyer (hosting webpage, preparing profile, visiting buying house etc.)
● Receive order sheet.
● Discuss with planning department for availability of production space.
● Discuss with prod Dir./GM for capability of handling such order and probable productivity
per Hr.
● Analyze product package and space sheet for costing.
● Find out the consumption of fabric.
● Analyze the fabric content, knitting pattern, GSM and do fabric costing.
● List out all Accessories, do the consumption and costing.
133
● Analyze printing, embroidery, value addition work washing for costing.
● Analyze productivity per Hr with machine and manpower requirement (may take help from
Production people).
● Assess cost of making per Dozen.
● Confirm price from component authority
● Quote price to buyer
● Negotiate price with buyer
● Confirm order with buyer
● Prepare time and action calendar (with available production lead time)
● Prepare Gantt chart (in support of T&A and incorporate all important issues and events
With completion date)
● Receive size color breakdown and color standard.
● Prepare lab dip, strike off, yarn dip etc and arrange approval of the same.
● Receive art work and sample for printing, embroidery, value addition work, washing and
get approval for the same.
● Develop all samples and submit the same to buyer for necessary approval.
● Obtain and ensure all approval as per T&A and Gantt chart to facilities production as per
plan.
● Receive master L/C
● Prepare final cost approval sheet to facilitate opening of all BB L/C.
● Open BB L/C for yarn, accessories, printing, embroidery etc
● Arrange all fabric and accessories and ensure in house of the same as per T&A.
● Source for printing, embroidery, value add work, washing and complete deed of agreement
with them.
● Ensure inventory of all items on arrival to store to confirm the quantity, color, sizes and quality
as per requirement
● Arrange all pre-production meeting and inspection on time.
● Arrange all lab test on time.
● Ensure dispatch and approval of all samples which may affect the final inspection and
shipment
● Arrange final inspection on schedule date.
● Do load calculation and ensure booking of all load carrying transport well in advance.
● Ensure space booking with sea and air freight forwarder.
● Help commercial department to submit all documents to bank on time.
● Ensure realization of full payment as per shipped quantity and price.
Samples: In garments industry, the sample which is come from buyer and it is followed for bulk
production called sample.
All sample and their implications:
● Proto type
● Counter sample
● Sealed/Red/Yellow label sample
● Size set sample
● Pre-production sample
● Trial production sample
● GFE sample
● Lab-test sample
● Flammability test sample
● Photo shoot sample
● Sales man sample
● Shipment sample
● Top of the product sample (TOP)
Consumption & Costing:

This is a primary and important job for a merchandiser to know how to do fabric consumption
and costing of any garments. The most important factor is the costing which will be done by
a merchandiser must commensurate with the prevailing market price, otherwise the costing
will not be accepted by the buyer as such he will inclined to such factory to place order who’s
costing is more realistic and at par with the prevailing market price. Now to do a reasonable
garment costing a merchandiser need to equip him with certain tools and techniques to do
reasonable costing.
135
Chapter 17
Final Inspection
136
Finial Inspection:
Following faults are checked after finishing:

Running shade Uneven shade
Dia mark Crease mark
Hairiness Oil mark
Sinker mark Patta/petti
Compaction broken Silicone spot
Softness Bowing
Spirility Contamination
RUNNING SHADE:
 Irregular dosing
 Problem in cycle time
 If temperature gradient not maintained
 Problem in pH maintenance
UNEVEN DYEING:
 Uneven scouring causes uneven dyeing

CREASE MARK:
 Crease mark is more prominent in high GSM fabric

 if anti-creasing agent is not used.
HAIRINESS:
 If bio-polishing and singeing in not properly
done.
COMPACTION BROKEN:
 Due to over compaction it occurs

SILICONE SPOT:
 If softener is not mixed properly.
SOFTENESS:
 If softener is not used then fabric becomes hard.
137
Chapter 18
Utility
138
Utility Services:
The major utility services available in Knit Concern Ltd. Are-
1. Steam
2. Electricity
3. Water
4. Compressed Air
5. Effluent treatment plant
Steam and Boilers:

Steam is an important utility in textile sector for various applications. Here in Knit Concern,
steam generators or boilers are used to generate steam by heating water. In this fire tube boiler,
water comes from reservation tank through feed pump and the burner produces steam by
burning the water with natural gas. Furnace oil can also be used. A special chemical Chemiwatt
701 is used to remove scaling in boiler. The produced steam passes through the steam header
and supplied to the machines.
Main Parts:
Burner Chimney
Reservation tank Feed pump
Blower Gas filter Safety valve
Gas regulator Pressure gauge
Blower Fire chamber
Specification:
Type : Fire tube boiler (horizontal)
Brand : LOOSE INTERNATIONAL
Origin : Germany
No of Boiler : 03
Capacity : 10 ton/hr
Fuel : natural gas,Diesel.
Steam Consumption : 2300 kg/hr for
1200-1500 products.
Steam pressure: 7-8 bar
Water pressure : 3-4 bar
Steam temp : 180°-190°C
Boiler Temp : 250-300°C
Chemical Used : For antiscalant ,
Tandex BWT
For wash, Sulphuric acid+Para
sulphates+Caustic+Nelbross+Nalco
Power Consumption : 40
Feed Water Quality : pH-7-8
Hardness - <2 ppm
139
Electricity and Generators:
Total Generator: 4 Types:
 Diesel Generator – CAT (USA) – capacity – 1710 KW
 Gas Generator – WAVKESHA – Capacity – 1100 KW (2) & 900 KW
Air: Fuel (Gas) ratio: 24:1
Total Requirement – 2-2.5 MW/day (3500-4000 KAmp current)
Total Output of Gas generators – 2100-2500 kW
Pressure required for Gas generators – 222 KPa for 1100 kW & 145 KPa for 900 kW. Line
Pressure – 13 to max 145 kpa.
Figure: Gas Generator
WTP (Water Treatment Plant):
Submersible
Pump
Reserve Tank
Centre Pump
Clean Bath
Soft Water Resever

tank
Booster
pump(12 )
Water Supply
Total number of plants: 6 (each Plant containing 3 tanks or vessels)

(In KCP 2 plants, in KCA & KCL 4 plants)
Total processed water: 12 lac liters per 8 hours
140
Raw water processing Technique:
Raw water processing is carried out through 03 vessels-
1. 1st vessel ( MGF):
MGF stands for Multi Grade Filter. This vessel contains sand and stone (Blocks
and removes Fe ions).
2. 2nd vessel (ACF):
ACF stands for Activated Carbon Filter. This vessel contains carbon and stone
3. 3rd vessel (SF):
SF stands for Softener Filter. This vessel contains resin and stone.
(Works as a purifier and hardness remover)
Process water quality:

Total Hardness- < 70ppm as caco3 Total
dissolved solid (TDS) - <500 ppm pH-
7.2-7.4
Testing of water:
• Hardness Testing
• Iron Testing
Hardness testing:
10 ml water
Add 2 drops Ammonia
Add 2 drops Black T indicator
Add 1drop EDTA (color change from Red to Violet)
Iron Testing:
A resin pack is added in 10ml of water in a beaker. If the color of the solution changes, it’ll indicate the
presence of iron and its measured by a standard scale.
Water Treatment Plant
141
Compressor:
No of compressor: 04
Source of air: natural air
Capacity: 7bar/hour (theoretically 10bar/hour)
Machine temperature: 100
Pump
Filter
Load/Unload
Air receiver
Radiator
Vessel
Line
Dryer
Machine no Brand name Model no Origin
01 BOGE SF 100 Germany
02 BOGE S1001 Germany
03 BOGE S1002 Germany
04 BOGE SF150 Germany
ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant):
Capacity: 3000m3
Screen brush removes different types dust and dirt that comes from dyeing waste water
From screen brush water goes to STORAGE TANK by lifting pump
From storage tank to NEUTRALIZATION TANK where SULPHURIC ACID dosing occurs And
pH is kept 7-8
From neutralization tank to BIOLOGICAL DISTRIBUTION TANK by biological feed pump
From distributor tank water goes to BIOLOGICAL OXIDATION TANK.

Here antifoam and nutrient salt are given.
From biological oxidation tank water goes to SEDIMENTATION FEEDING TANK Where
decolourant is used to destroy the colour of water.
142
Then goes to SEDIMENTATION TANK where escaping bridge holds the dirt and dust.
Here water with Sludge deposits below and almost clean water goes to river by channel.
Then goes to SLUDGE RETURN TANK by air lift.

In sludge return tank sodium hypochlorite is used to destroy harmful bacteria.
Then goes to SLUDGE THICKENING TANK. Here polyelectrolyte is used to thicken sludge And
remaining water goes to screen brush if valve is open.
Sludge then goes to sludge filter and is filtered and becomes like a sludge cake
Chemicals and their functions:
Chemicals Functions
Sulphuric acid (H2SO4) It is used in the neutralization tank to control the pH of water
Anti-foaming agent It is used in the oxidation tank to control/ reduce the foam
Nutrient salt It is the mixture of TSP and Urea and it acts as food of bacteria
Decolourant It is used in the sedimentation feeding tank to remove the color of water
NaOCl It is used in sludge return tank to destroy harmful bacteria
Polyelectrolyte It is used sludge thickening tank to coagulate the sludge
Testing machineries:
 Digital ruffle furnace: (to dry the filter paper)

 Thermo reactor: (to heat the test tube)
 Multiparameter: (pH, mu,ppt,ppm,ms/cm,°C, °F)
 BOD sensor: (measures BOD)
 Photometer: (checks range of BOD and COD)
 TDS & EC meter: (measures total dissolved solid)
 Microscope
Figure: Effluent Treatment Plant

143
Chapter 19
Maintenance Section
144
Maintenance of Machinery:
Maintenance of machinery is very essential mechanical effort for achieving smooth running
of different machines. Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such
a way that trouble free services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific
product quality required by the customers is sustained. On time maintenance increase m/c
lifetime & ensures trouble free services.
2 types of maintenance are done:

 Break down maintenance
 Routine maintenance
Maintenance
Routine Maintenance Break Down Maintenance
Mechanical Maintenance Electrical Maintenance Mechanical Maintenance Electrical Maintenance
1. Break down maintenance: Break down maintenance is done instantly when

problem arises in machine.
2. Routine maintenance: After a particular period of operation, the machines are
cleaned & reordered, that is routine or schedule maintenance. The maintenance department does
it once in a month.
Manpower Setup for Maintenance:
Post Number of Employees

Mechanical Engineer 1
Electrical Engineer 2
Mechanical Fitter 1
Electrical Supervisor 1
Asst. Mechanic 2
Electrician 1
Asst. Electrician 2
Maintenance Procedure:
Maintenance: Mechanical
Machine: Dyeing Machines
Sl. No. Item needed to be checked & Serviced

1. Greasing of the winch bearing
2. Complete cleaning of machine
145
3. Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required
4. Checking of air supply filter, regulators, and auto drain seals
5. Cleaning of filter elements
6. Greasing of unloading roller bearings
7. Checking and cleaning (if required) of addition tank level indicator
8. Checking the oil level of pump bearing and refill if required
9. Checking the function of heat and cool modulating valves
10. Checking of all belts and belt tension
11. Check circulation, reel and other pumps
12. Checking of all door seals
Machine: Stenter Machine

1. Removal of gas burnt deposits from chains
2. Checking of gas burners
3. Cleaning of softener application unit
5. Checking and cleaning of steam pipe lines
4. Checking and cleaning of gas pipe lines
5. Grinding of fabric gripping pins
6. Cleaning of ventilation duct
7. Cleaning of m/c cabinet
8. Checking of motors
Machine: Dewatering Machine

1. Cleaning of softener application unit
2. Checking of rotating device of rotating trolley unit
3. Checking of pneumatic pressure valves
4. Checking and replacement (if necessary) of rubber pads of stretching unit
5. Checking of plaiting device
6. Checking of speed regulating unit
146
Machine: Tensionless Dryer

1. Checking of gas pipe lines
2. Checking of gas burners
3. Checking of belt conveyor system
6. Cleaning of ventilation duct
7. Cleaning of m/c cabinet
Machine: Compactor Machine

1. Checking of Steam pipe lines
2. Checking of pneumatic pressure valves
3. Checking of belt conveyor system
6. Checking and replacement (if necessary) of compacting shoe
7. Cleaning of compacting shoe
Machine: Raising Machine

1. Checking of Gearing system and replacement of faulty gears
2. Lubrication of gearing system
3. Grinding of pins of pile and counter pile rollers
Machine: Boiler

1. Checking of gas pressure and gas supply line
2. Dosing of softening chemicals to supply water
3. Checking of all steam lines
4. Cleaning of burner tank (after six month interval)
147
5. Checking and replacement of valves
6. Cleaning of feed water tank
7. Checking and replacement of filters
8. Cleaning of sight glass
Maintenance: Electrical
SL NO. Items needs to be checked & serviced

1 Check main panels
2 Check panel cooling fan & clean its filter
3 Clean main pump inverter & its cooling fan
4 Check all circuit breaker ,magnetic conductors & relays
5 Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over load
6 Visual checking of all power & control cables
7 Check ail motor‟s terminals
8 Check & clean fluff & dirt at all motor fan covers
9 Check DC drive of kneel motors
10 Check all pressure switches
11 Check calibration of main vessel & all addition tank
12 Check all signal isolators
13 Check setting & operation of lid safely switches
14 Check setting of tangle sensors
15 Check all pneumatic solenoids
16 Check all indicating lamps
17 Check calibration of heating/ cooling modulating valve
18 Check all on/off switches
Maintenance Tools and Equipment:
Sl. No. Maintenance tools/equipments Functions

1. Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut & bolts
2. Pipe Spanner For pipe fitting
3. Spanner Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts fitting
4. Socket spanner Handle system for nut & bolt fitting
5. Hammer To apply load where required
6. Screw driver To release any screw
7. Punch Used to fit any worn out shaft
8. Lock opener To open the clip of bearing
9. Hack saw To cut any metallic thing
10. Outside calipers To measure outside dia
11. Inside calipers To measure inside dia
148
12. Slide calipers To measure very small dia
13. Vernier scale To measure very small dia
14. Chain ton To lift heavy load
15. Welding machine To join metallic parts
16. Grinding machine To make the smooth fabrics
17. Tester To test electric circuit
18. Pliers To grip anything & cut anything
19. Avometer/Voltmeter To measure voltage
20. Steel tape To measure length, width & height
21. Chisel To cut any metal
22. File To smooth the rough surface
Maintenance Schedule
Serial No. Parts Description Check Time
1 All 3 month
pumps(bearing,coupling)
2 All belts (loose/tight) monthly
3 All monthly
bearing(grease/sound)
4 All gear box(oil/sound) monthly
5 All valves leak monthly
6 Reel rubber monthly
7 Mechanical seal monthly
8 Steam trap monthly
9 Handle of lid monthly
10 LID opening stopper monthly
11 LID glass monthly
12 Safety valve(main kier heat monthly

exchanger)
13 Pressure gauge weekly / monthly
14 Water leveling scale monthly
149
Chapter 20
Stores & Inventory Control
150
Scope of Inventory Control:
1. Raw materials:
a) Dye store
b) Other chemicals
c) Gray fabric
2. Finished fabric
3. Spare parts
Frequency of Inventory Update:
1. Monthly inventory control
2. Annual inventory control
Inventory Control System for Raw Materials:
Dye store & other chemicals store

 Both of these are received by the store in charge.
 First he sends these to quality in-charge for inspection.
 Store in-charge supplies these when required and records the date, type of material, quantity and
section in which supplied, in his register book.
Grey fabric store

 Grey fabric is usually stored in another storeroom, which is separate from dyeing shade.
 Grey fabric is first sent to the QC department for quality assurance and then taken to the storeroom.
 Grey fabric is received by fabric store in-charge.
 He supplies the fabric as per requirement and records the date, type of material, quantity and section
in which supplied, in his register book.
Inventory Control System for Finished fabric:
 Finished fabric from the compactor or stenter goes to inspection team. Here inspection is done by a
four points system.
 Required GSM, width (diameter), shrinkage, Spirality, wash fastness, rubbing fastness etc are tested
from the lab before packaging.
 After finishing the fabric is kept in package before their transfer to the garments department.
 It is controlled by the finishing in-charge who keeps a list of total finished product. He also keeps a
list of delivery products.
 He supplies the fabric as per requirement and records the date, type of material, quantity and section
in which supplied, in his register book.
Inventory Control System for Spare Parts:
 Spare store officer keeps the spare parts in store and makes a list of spare parts.
 If the spare parts are little in stock he gives requisition to maintenance manager.
 Maintenance manager gives requisition to head office. Head office imports spare parts or buys from
local market as per requirement.
 As new spare parts arrive to store officer, he receives and catalogues them.
151
Chapter 21
Cost Analysis
152
Introduction:
Costing which is usually followed in a factory is also strictly followed in the KNIT CONCERN LTD.
Costing of the product considering the raw materials expenditure, salary, wages of officers & workers,
distributions & advertisement expenses etc. All direct & indirect expenses are done in the factory.
Costing Of the Product:
The following points are considered for costing any dyed product in KNIT CONCERN LTD.
Total dyes & chemical cost Total utility cost

Salary Payment
Transport cost Lunch
Entertainment cost Miscellaneous cost
Government cash incentive
Price of the Product:
Generally price of product is determined by the required profit adding to the total expenses. So, Price of
products= (Direct expenses + Indirect expenses + Factory Overhead) + Required profit
Costing of the Product:
Let, price of yarn is $3.00/kg
Process loss of yarn for knitting (10%) = $0.30
Knitting fabric cost = $3.30
Cost of dyes & chemicals = $2.50
Process loss for dyeing (12%) = $0.30
Dyed fabric cost = $ 6.10
Packing cost = $0.05
Production cost of fabric=$6.15
Fabric price (with 25% margin) =$ 7.69
Fabric consumption/ doz. =
(Body length + Sleeve length) x Chest length x 2 x GSM x12 /10000000
Garments specification:
Let,
Body length =78 cm
Sleeve length =33 cm
Chest length =62 cm
GSM =210
Fabric consumption/ doz. = {(78+33) x62x2x210x12}/ 10000000
= 3.469 kg
Fabric consumption/doze (with 10% wastage) = 3.816 kg
Body fabric cost / doz. =$(7.79x 3.816)
= $29.35
Cost of collar& cuff/doz = $ 4.00
Cost of Trims=$ 2.25
Cost of Trims (with 5% Process loss) = $2.36
Production Cost of Garments/ doz=$35.71
Garments Price/doz (with 25% Profit) =$44.64
153
Chapter 22
Conclusion
154
Industrial attachment of Industrial Training is an essential part for Textile Education because it
minimizes the gap between theoretical knowledge and practical knowledge. This Industrial Training
increases our thought a lot about Textile Technology and helps to know about industrial production,
machineries, management. This training made us suitable for industrial job life. Besides it gives us the
first opportunity to work in Textile Industry.
In this factory they have established On-line and Off-line quality control of each product. They also use
good quality yarn, dyes and chemicals in their production process.
Special Thanks to those whom we are so grateful - - -

 Engr. Rakib
 Engr. Sunny
 Engr. Rahat
 Engr. Sifat
 Engr. Taposh
 Engr. Partha
 Engr. Deep
 Engr. Tuhin
 Engr. Rathin
 Engr. Nayeen
 Engr. Asif
 All other personnel who helped us lot to learn so many things.
155

Industrial Report Final

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Industrial Report Final

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF

REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT

KNIT CONCERN Ltd.

Md. Ahashan Habib

BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF TEXTILES

2 Company Profile 06-13

3 Manpower Management 14-19

4 Different Sections 20-21

5 Grey Fabric Inspection 22-26

6 Batch Section 27-29

8 Dyeing Lab 34-41

9 Dyeing Production 42-61

11 Yarn Dyeing 77-84

12 All Over Printing 85-91

13 Quality Control Lab 92-101

16 Final Inspection 137-138

18 Maintenance Section 145-150

19 Stores & Inventory Control 151-152

20 Cost Analysis 153-154

Type: 100 % Export Oriented Composite knitwear Industry

manufacturer and exporter of knitwear in the world market.

its customers the best possible satisfaction and value

for their money facilitating them with one -stop

Knitwear sourcing services.

Location of Knit Concern Ltd:

Google Maps View of Knit Concern Group

Satellite View of Knit Concern Group

The mosque is capable of accommodating about 500 persons at a time.

 Buyer sample is send to G.M.

RESPONSIBILITIES OF PRODUCTION OFFICER:

 To give dyeing program slip.

DESCRIPTION OF WORK OF A PRODUCTION OFFICER:

Report to : Sr. production officer

DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES:

 Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production.

No. Section Person

Knitted fabric from Knitting

Grey Fabric Inspection Section

Dispatch/ Delivery Section

Knitted fabric (checked in knitting section)

Grey fabric inspection Section for checking by dyeing dept.

To storage/ batch section Recheck

Dyeing If not ok, Rejection

Faults of grey fabric:

Fault name Causes Remedies Image

# Yarn breakage or yarn #Yarn strength must

# When a needle breaks

# Defective needle. #Needle should be

# Use of irregular yarn # remove irregular

# If needle latch is hard or #clean or change the

7. Lycra out Cause by If lycra is missed Check the feeder and

# if needle latch is not Make sure all the

In knitting section too #Blowing air for

11.Yarn # If yarn contains foreign # By avoiding lot,

# When sinker corrode due

Inspected Fabric Storage Section:

- Two storied storage sections with racks of multistoried rails.

The grade is given by 4- point system:

4- Point System Acceptance Calculation

Dia 350 680 410 550 380 180

Suppose, a 550Kg batch has to be made.

Total Quantity: (350+680+410+550+380+180)kg

For 22” : =75kg