CNC To 3D Print

Combination CNC Machine and 3D Printer: 19 ... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
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About This Instructable
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(/file/FJ9D62EH27LS6VX/)
(/member taulman (/member

How to make your own 2D CNC machine that converts into a 3D Printer and /taulman/)
/taulman/)
back to a CNC machine in less than an hour. Costing less than a CNC machine taulman3D
(http://taulman3d.com)
or 3D printer! (~$1,000.00) In addition, the design will go further than the
traditional 3D printer printing ABS/PLA, and move forward to printing with new Follow 321
materials such as 3D Printing Nylon derivatives like tauman 618 as well as

Acrylic and PET. Bio: is an Engineer with a background in
electronics, optics, mechanical designs,
chemistry, plastic injection molding and
Latest Updates to this Instructable as of 2/28/2016: plastic die tooling.
1. Major Update.... We can not thank all of you enough as to your many
comments, support and help/advice you've given to others here as to the More by taulman:
2BEIGH3!. We released this three years ago and in that time the technology has
grown so much we want to take a sec and provide a short update.
With the release of the 2BEIGH3, we were able to start off with a machine unlike (/id/Is-3D-Printing-
any at that time. One that would allow us unfettered control of the 3D Printer
portion of the design. In doing so, we were, and still do, operate a similar 3DP
configuration in our development of new polymers for 3D Printing. This has Safe-or-DIY-Testing-for-HCN-from-/)
allowed us to bring more unique materials to 3D Printing, especially in the area
of utility. If you visit our site today, you'll see an array of materials from Nylons to
Co-Polyesters that are developed specifically for 3DP. All of these materials
have gone through testing on a system exactly like the 2BEIGH3 or similar to it.
1 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
We were never limited by special boards/controllers, thermal requirements,
speed requirements, force requirements or anything (/contest/makeitreal/
that was, at that http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
time, part )
Combination CNC Machine and 3D Printer: 19 ...
Combination CNC Machine
of the few units available for 3DP. We and 3DtoPrinter
also want thank those
by that went before
taulman(/member/taulman/
us in the design of )CNC
in 3D-Printing
(/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
units that utilize pipe in their structure. After months )of (/id/2BEIGH3-3D-
evaluation, these were the design types that inspired us on the CNC portion.
While this unith
Download (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
) 19 Steps
was built using 2" pipe, we've heard from others that have built
larger units with 4" pipe. Again proving the pipe design is still valid
advertisement for low cost I Made it!
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Printer-Update-and-call-for-Testers/) 
CNC. One of the main goals three years ago was to minimize price/cost. With
the advent of low cost hot ends and extruders, now available, one would
probably be better off going with one of the low cost CNC units now available
(/id/Nylon-Printable-
and simply adding an extruder and hot end. Reduced complexity and ability to
handle 1.75mm for 3DP would be initial benefits. Today you can purchase linear
rails of several types at lower prices for CNC or 3DP units. We still suggest the
608-Ball-Bearing/)
1/4 20 threaded rod for CNC as it's very powerful. We still use MACH3 as it
works well for both CNC and 3DP. We have upgraded our thermal controller to
our own design and may release it next year.
Related
We wish all DIY Instructable users and others the best and again thank
everyone for their support and great comments. Given the changes in the last Make a Permanent NYLON
three years, we believe the future is going to be impressive! 3D Printed Coffee Filter
(/id/Make-a-Permanent-
Our motto..."Give em the knowledge, Give em the tools, Give em the materials NYLON-3D-Printed-Coffee-
Filter/)
and get out of their way" (/id/Make-
2BEIGH3 3D Printer Update
and call for Testers
(/id/2BEIGH3-3D-Printer-
Update-and-call-for-Testers/)
2. There is a full 2BEIGH3 update here (https://www.instructables.com by taulman (/member/taulman/)
(/id/2BEIGH3-3D-
CNC to 3D Printer
/id/2BEIGH3-3D-Printer-Update-and-call-for-Testers/), along with a source for Conversion (/id/CNC-to-3D-
Nylon 3D Printing material here (http://taulman3D.com). Printer-Conversion/)
by NuriE1 (/member/NuriE1/)
(/id/CNC-
3. If you have a new 3D Printing material, there is a Safety Test Procedure for How to make a high
any new and previously untested material here (https://www.instructables.com resolution NYLON, ABS and
PLA nozzle for a 3D Printer.
/id/Is-3D-Printing-Safe-or-DIY-Testing-for-HCN-from-/).
(/id/How-to-make-a-high-
resolution-NYLON-ABS-and-
As a sample of the unique new properties of just one of these new materials, EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter
(/id/eWaste-60-3DPrinter/)
Here is a 3D Print of a Childs NYLON Prosthetic Insole on the 2BEIGH3 3D by mikelllc (/member/mikelllc/)
Printer.
3D Print of a Childs NYLON Prosthetic Insole on a 2BEIGH3 3D P…
With the 3D Printer configuration of the 2BEIGH3, you will be able to print parts
that meet much higher standards for strength, flexibility and pliability. You will be
able to design parts that can take 100's of severe strikes from a sledge hammer
and still have a soft velvet like texture.
You will be able to print parts that are almost equal to Factory Die Extrusions.
And in some cases, parts that can not be Die extruded due to complexity. The
term "delamination" will cease to be a concern.
Nylon and it's derivative polymers have some great features that can be
modified with fill density and layer height. Imagine being able to print a
permanent coffee filter, bearings that need no lubrication, pliable IPhone cases,
2 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
extremely tough bands that are so flexible you can tie them in a knot and they'll
still supportCNC
200lbs! (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination Machine and 3D Printer: 19 ... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
Combination CNC Machine and 3D Printer by
taulman
My (/member/taulman/
) in 3D-Printing
hope is that people use this (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
guide to bring their designs and projects to )
tangible parts and objects as paper and CAD designs are great, but unproven,
Download
till built. h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
) 19 Steps
My goal for this guide is to take the mystery out of both CNC and
advertisement  3D printing in
Collection I Made it!  Favorite  Share 
such a way as to eliminate that….”its all to overwhelming” feeling or thought.
Because there are several other specific machine designs out there, both CNC
and 3D Printer, please refer to this machine as the "2BEIGH3" or "2 by 3" as I
will within this guide.
Step 1: Goals and Approach
(/file/FDOUY77H1YOIRR0/)
As I read through the 2D and 3D blogs and sites, it’s obvious that people with
2D want a 3D and people with a 3D want to try and convert it to a 2D. They are
both limited because their machines were meant for a specific action. While
CNC machines work with large X-Y lateral forces (cutting bits) they are very
powerful but move very slow and 3D printers have almost no lateral force
requirement (other than the platform) and move very fast. Because neither
machine needs a fast “Z” axis, the 2BEIGH3 is designed to allow you to swap
out the X-Y sections, recalibrate and back to cutting or printing in less than an
hour. Actually, my 2BEIGH3 takes 15 min including calibration.
The process is going to be that we build a machine, to make a better machine to
then build a slightly different machine. And while that seems complicated, it’s
mostly nuts and bolts. I will try to specifically show you how to create or build
the parts you need and where appropriate, provide detailed drawings and CAD
files.
You’ll see that I have borrowed some ideas from others here on the
Instructables web site, and if I forget to mention an already published detail,
please let me know and I’ll update.
So before we get started, what exactly does a 2BEIGH3 look like?
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)
) in 3D-Printing
)
Download h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
) 19 Steps
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Step 2: Base Structure Reference
(/file/F5QZLU3H2BMNIO2/)
As you can see the 2BEIGH3 starts out as a scaled up version of Tom McWire’s
“Easy to Build Desk Top 3 Axis CNC Milling Machine”. When I saw this design, I
knew it was what I was looking for because I could “scale” it up. I think Tom did
a great job in showing us a easy frame for CNCs.
Step 3: 2BEIGH3 Specs
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(/contest/makeitreal/
)
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
So before we get started, just what will we end up with..?
The 2BEIGH3 specs as detailed:
Spec CNC 3D Printer
Build volume 14” x 14” x 6” 14” x 14” x 12”

355mm x 355mm x 160mm 355mm x 355mm x 355mm
Material Aluminium 3mm or 0.125" ABS and PLA

Plastic Rod or Line
Plastics 2-3mm(or 0.125") Nylon,
Nylon Polymers, Nylon 6 and 6/6 - 6' Rod
Foam 3mm or 0.125" PET
(Plastic from water bottles)
(Steel with the addition of cooling)
X-Y Resolution +/- 0.005 ~ +/- 0.012
Z Resolution +/- 0.005 +/- 0.005
(Not bad, but you probably shouldn’t mill pistons for your HEMI or print contact
lenses)
Cut/Print Speed 350mm/min 24mm/s

Cutting Foam ABS
Tools/Tips 0.125” – 0.250” .32mm - .62mm
Software Any CAD that Any 3D CAD that

Makes “.dxf” Exports “.stl”
MACH3 MACH3
LazyCam slic3r rev 6
PC Win XP Win XP
I/O Computer must have a 25 pin +5 volt

“LPT” printer port.
Power Usage
Power usage with stepper motors is difficult to predict as stepper motors use
most of their power the opposite of say, fan motors. They are rated in "Holding
Torque" and this means "at a stand still they will not slip". So, they actually draw
less power moving the tables, then when they are not moving. To hold the 3
used for the CNC, Hi or Lo res, the power is about 140 watts for the motors,
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drivers and control board. That would drop some as the X and Y tables move. 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
We wouldn't expect the Z axis to move much at all. (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC
With the 3D Printer Machine
configuration, weand 3DtoPrinter
will need add 55 watts
by for the Hot-End
taulman
as it(/member/taulman/
) in 3D-Printing
is powered during the entire(/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
print. We will also need to add some power) for
the extruder, but as I mentioned, it draws less because it is always working. A
lot less, in theh
) 19 Steps
range of 15-25 watts. So for a 3D Printer configuration, we could
get over 220 watts.
Step 4: 2BEIGH3 Initial BOM
(/file/FKF3CW1H1ZG7SU1/)
Before I detail the BOM, I should explain my approach. Like you, I wanted the
most for my money. And while it would have been easier to throw cash at parts
(if I had cash) like bearings, special threaded rods, hot-ends and extruders,
these parts would have also locked us into a machine that would be difficult to
scale up or get replacements parts later on. It would also be difficult to hack the
2BEIGH3 for your purposes if there were proprietary components. I have
already hacked my own design as I want others to take what they want/need
from the design.
In theory you should be able to scale a 2BEIGH3 up to cut 48” x 48” x 24” foam
CNC or print a 24” x 24” x 24” block of plastic just by changing the pipe,
threaded rod and timing belt lengths. I therefore took the approach that
everything should be a commodity or a modified part. We'll consider Stepper
motors, controllers and drivers to be a commodity for this build. Linear bearings
are a commodity, but way to expensive. 3D printer hot-ends and extruders are
not yet a commodity, and therefore we’ll be building those. I also wanted to
keep the total shipping costs down, so everything (other than standard hardware
you can get at any HW store) is available from just 4 vendors. I will mention but
not detail small screws. I kept all screws and bolts to ¼ 20 (6mm) and all small
screws to 6/32 (4mm).
Basic Machine
– The BOM describes a machine with a 28” width, 26” depth, 20” height with a
~16” Z axis neck. Again, if you want a different size machine, just scale up or
down.
CNC BOM
Let’s get those things on order that we need so they’ll be on-hand when it’s time
to install them
4 each NEMA #23 stepper motors 5-8 kg-cm with 6mm (0.250”) shaft
Shop around….there are several places to buy these.
I used http://www.circuitspecialists.com/
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1 each 4 axis stepper controller – connects to computer LPT port. (NOT USB). 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
I got one from http://www.cncgeeker.com/ (/contest/makeitreal/
)
4 each ) in 3D-Printing
stepper driver (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
boards that )
will connect to the controller card and motors.
Note: I suggest a vendor that sells a 4 axis kit that’s known to work together.
Download
Ratings shouldhbe (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
) 19 Steps
3 amps, 12-24+ volts 1-2-8-16 step similar to the one I
bought.
Note2: The 3D printer will reuse the X and Y stepper motor but it also requires a
4th stepper for the extruder, thus a “4 axis controller/driver” is required.
Power Supply for Steppers – The controllers plus driver usually takes two
voltages.
7-9 volts and 12-24+ volts
For the 7-9 volts, any 1 amps regulated PS will do….an old regulated wall wart
should be fine.
For the 12-24+, I suggest a regulated 12 volt @ 10-12 amps as you’ll not need
more voltage with most NEMA 23 and anything higher will make the motors run
hotter than required. As 10-12 amp power supplies are not everywhere, I had
several 12 volt 4 - 6 amp wall warts about, and my driver boards are individual
boards, so I put a wart on each board and connect all the grounds (-) together.
Note: do not parallel these PS as they are switchers and will become erratic.
Just connect the grounds together….(-)…not the (+)
Mach3 CNC Software by Artsoft Inc Please Purchase

LazyCAM CNC Software by Artsoft Inc - Free
Mach3 SW runs on the computer connected to the Stepper Board. It converts
GCode from the CAM and Slicer programs and drives the signals to the Stepper
Motors.
Now for the first trip to the Hardware store!

Pipe - all are Standard 1” iron pipe. You can buy pieces or like me, I handed
the Hardware store guy a list and had him cut and thread. Saved about $20 this
way. Again, if you want to scale up, now is the time to go to 1 1/2" or longer
pipes.
QTY Desc
2 each 24”
3 each elbow
1 each Tee
1 each Flange – note…..these are made outta gold..!
3 each Unions
5 each 6”
2 each 12”
2 each end caps
Step 5: Frame Assembly
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)
) in 3D-Printing
)
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(/file/FCFG14QH337KPJ1/)
Refer to the 2BEIGH3 frame drawing to determine what piece goes where.
Assembly
The goal here is tight..tight...tight. This is why I’ve used unions. As an elbow
or Tee will never ever line up where you need it, the unions are here so you can
tighten the pieces as tight as possible and then use the unions to align for the
right angles. This is why they make tape and other sealing compounds,
because they know that you’ll always have to compromise tight for alignment. I
do not use Teflon tape, just two large wrenches and muscle. When complete,
you should be able to flick the flange with a finger nail and feel it with your finger
at either end cap.
“Tight”
As for alignment, at this point, you only need to make sure the Z axis neck is at
a right angle to the rest of the frame. There are several ways to do this. I had
an accurate digital level. I set the two legs on 2x4 so as not to set on the end
caps and used a shim to level the legs for a reference. Then I measured how
level the 12” piece connected to the flange was and adjusted the two outer
unions to correct. Remember, the Z Axis only needs to be level with the legs not
the earth. The Z-axis union is just for rotational needs and you only need to get
reasonably close.
Now, look at your frame…all your future efforts and work will take place between
the two 24” pieces and about 8” up form that center. Now is a good time to
build, buy or invent a solid table to support a 2BEIGH3. I’m tall, so my table is
48” off the floor. Also, iron is not light. A complete unit can weight 50 lbs +.
This is a good time to mention noise. The CNC version will use a high speed
mini router that is very loud as it cuts. You must wear ear protection. Period.
The 3D printer makes almost no noise, but hot plastics stink and emit fumes, so
you’ll want to vent all other odors and fumes.
NOTE: 3D Printing with these plastics is just like cooking on an open stove.
Never let things get to hot.
Vent all odors and fumes.
Don't touch the electricity.
NOTE II: Polycarbonate can become unstable at very high temperatures.
There will be a separate instructable for 3 D Printing polycarbonate and it will
describe a PWM controlled heater for the Hot-End. The PWM controller will have
a top limit for temperature. Please do not try to print Polycarbonate with the
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released design. Polycarbonate can change state from a plastic to a crystal 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
foam that easily (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC catches on fire
Machine andif the
3D hot-end temperature
Printer: 19 ... exceeds 400C. Well
http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
Combination CNC Machine and 3D Printer
above printing temperatures. by
Because ) in 3D-Printing
these fumes emanate(/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
from the hot-end's thermoplast area (About )the
size of a pencil eraser) the actual amount of fumes is quite small. Something
along the line h
) 19 Steps
of a standard cooking stove vent is sufficient as long as it's in a
position above the hot-end to capture odors and fumes.
Installation
Now is a good time to plan your installation. My wife and kids voted the garage!
One last item on the frame. While it may be in the garage, you may want to
show your friends. Now is the time to paint the frame. As it’s iron and will rust,
use paint with a rust inhibitor. You’ll notice mine is not painted…!
Step 6: Tools Needed for the Initial 2BEIGH3 CNC Section
(/file/F9R6GUQH21CGL9Z/)
Gather our tools and get organized!
Pipe wrenches
Pliers
Screwdrivers
Taps as we are going to tap a few holes
¼ 20 and ¼ 28
The ¼ 28 will be used later for the 3D P but might as well get it now.
A tap Handle as we will hand tap three holes
We will use a hand drill to tap remaining holes.
Small Bench Drill press – nothing special, just a small bench drill press. You
may even be able to rent/borrow one as we won’t need it very often. We will
need this to drill the holes for the 3D Printer hot-end and will be drilling a ¼” hole
1” deep in aluminum.
Hammer
Punch to mark holes to be drilled
Hand Drill – reversible and variable speed
Hardened Drill bits – ¼, 1/8, 7/32 and 9/64 - For all 1/4-20 threaded holes, drill
at 7/32" and tap to 1/4-20
There will be one hole on the hot-end that is drilled at 7/32, but tapped at
1/4-28.
Eye Protection - goggles
Ear Protection – ear covers or plugs
Hairnet if needed
Hack Saw or 28” bolt cutter
TIP: I quit cutting small metal pieces years ago and just use a bolt cutter.
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Sandpaper – carbide for smoothing metal edges 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
Volt Meter/DVM (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC –Machine
Harbor Freight
and has
3D these for ~$5,
Printer: however, for the http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
19 ... 3D Printer,
Combination CNC
we’ll need one that Machine
measures andfrom
temperature 3DaPrinter
thermocouple.
by Harbor Freight
taulman
has(/member/taulman/
those including) in
the3D-Printing
thermocouple for about $20.00 )
) 19 Steps
Step 7: 2BEIGH3 Safety
(/file/F0G4AKKH29XSJIU/)
The 2BEIGH3 uses dangerous extremes to do its job.

I am in no way responsible for any injuries from assembly or usage of the
2BEIGH3.
1. Use caution with all power tools and wear appropriate eye, ear and hairnet
gear.
2. While you will be printing at 265c, the hot end circuit can drive to 320C..It will
not just burn you, but mark you for life.
3. If not connected correctly, the hot-end can reach 1400F!
4. The Stepper motors connected to the 1/4 20 threaded rod allows the CNC
X-Y table to push steel past your cutting bit.
It can crush your finger if you are not careful.
5. As noted earlier, you must vent fumes and odors.
A word of note: I designed and built this unit in 8 weeks from concept to
cutting/printing parts. Now that I have them, I can tell you it was not the
overwhelming task I thought it would be at all. Just have a bit of faith in yourself
and like they say "Just do it". Yes, I made mistakes along the way and I threw
em in a "Don't do that again bucket". And "yes" my CNC bit tried to drill its way
to China, however, Plastic is cheap and disposable. Knowledge is not!
During my design I studied lots of posts here and on other sites. They were so
helpful that I have decided to pay back the 2D/3D community by documenting
my design. My thanks to everyone that took the time and effort to share their
designs.
The 2BEIGH3 is Open Source Hardware. I encourage people to take ideas and
hack it. Please refer to it as a "2BEIGH3" or "2by3" so others don't confuse it
with already available kits or complete units.
In addition, the 2BEIGH3 3D Printer has a hot-end designed for NYLON. You
will be amazed at how you can now print objects that are extremely slippery,
bendable, fold-able, tough, durable, semi-transparent and chemically resistant to
solvents. Yes, you can print hose, but you can also print soft durable keypad
covers, flexible overlays and a zillion other parts that are difficult in ABS.
10 deNOTE
53 Of Caution to existing 3D Printer Owners about NYLON: 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
NYLON heats differently thanand
ABS. (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC Machine 3DPlease see the
Printer: 19 attached
... NYLONhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
properties
Combination CNCNYLON
PDF. Simply inserting Machine and 3DTOM,
into a REPRAP, Printer
UP or other
by 3D Unit, will
probably ) in 3D-Printing
damage the (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
unit in some way. I have a friend that had to order a )
complete new hot-end as he didn't heed my warnings.
And "yes" "weed-wacker"
) 19 Steps
/ "trimmer line" is made of NYLON.....it's also made of
fiberglass and other bits and pieces of nasty things. Put it into the
advertisement 2BEIGH3,
 Collection I Made it!  Favorite  Share 
REPRAP, TOM, UP or other 3D Unit, and you'll hear the sound of french fries
being cooked....that's the tip being coated in goo. Burnt fiberglass has to be
drilled out (as my friend found out).
In addition, NYLON is extremely slippery and unless you have a "Spiky"
extruder, as http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21782 (http://www.thingiverse.com
/thing:21782) your extruder will more than likely slip. All Nylon polymers require
high pressure extrusion.
0.125 - 1/8 NYLON rods for the 2BEIGH3 are available from McMaster Carr
(8538K12)they come in 4' sections, are low cost ~$1.68 are round and will print
a lot of small parts. In a few months or sooner, Nylon material specifically for 3D
Printing will be available here (http://taulman3d.com/). and anyone can signup
here (http://taulman3d.com/testers.html).
I get the white rod and take a rag and coat the rod with just a bit of old printer
refill ink for the color I want. Nylon absorbs water/liquids at a greater level than
ABS, so the color looks a bit translucent depending on thickness of the part.
3mm ABS is available from several vendors on the web, just do a search on
3mm ABS spool.
Again, 3D Printing is no different than cooking on an open Stove.....So..
Don't touch the Hot Parts..
Vent the Odors and fumes..I have uploaded the "Dupont Nylon OSHA Handling
and Ventilation Guide.pdf" for those interested or desire guidance.
Don't touch the electricity..
NYLON.pdf
Download
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F01/V7WF/H21CGLJW
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F01/V7WF/H21CGLJW/F01V7WFH21CGLJW.pdf)
/F01V7WFH21CGLJW.pdf)
Dupont
Download Nylon OSHA H… (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FSQ/WFDH/H337JZUO
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FSQ/WFDH/H337JZUO/FSQWFDHH337JZUO.pdf)
/FSQWFDHH337JZUO.pdf)
Step 8: Basic 2BEIGH3 CNC X Y Table BOM
(/file/FK1S933H2CE6KVU/)
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)
) in 3D-Printing
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Show All Items
Basic 2BEIGH3 CNC X Y Table

We will need to make some parts for our precision CNC table, and to do that, we
will make a simplified lower precision table to make those parts. This will be
made out of some drawer slides, aluminium “U” channel and some 12” square
boards.
This is similar to https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-drawer-slide-
CNC-machine-for-under-200/ (https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-
a-drawer-slide-CNC-machine-for-under-200/)
I chose this route rather than to just say…”Here is the dwg, just go get them
laser cut” for two reasons. First, the lower precision table will be good enough to
make the parts needed for the 3D Printer X and Y table, and 2nd, some people
may not need/want 0.005” precision
Again, this is a lower precision X-Y axis table, so we are looking for "close" not
exact. As you build this table and you see you need to add a spacer (couple of
washers), move a hole slightly or add a temporary "C" Clamp....just do it. The
most important part, is actually the NUT for the threaded rod and we're going to
make a one that will be easy and solid....no slop. I will provide CAD drawings
for the precision table in another step. The drawer slides have too much lateral
tolerance for a precision table, but are fine for making a lot of parts that don't
require +/-0.005 We can make both the precision table parts for the CNC table
as well as the 3D Printer table parts with a quick and simple table.
BOM
QTY Desc
HW Store-
2 each 16” – 20” Ball Bearing drawer slides – These come in a pair =
4 total
1 each 16” – 20” Centre Drawer slide. Single part
2 each ¾ “ X 36” Aluminium U Channel
2 each Boards/wood 12” x 12” x ~1”
3 each ¼” 20 x 36” Threaded Rod
These need to be straight. I went to 2 HW stores
And looked at ~ 100 to pick 3
To test if it’s straight, just roll it on the store floor
1 each 1” x 1/8” x 36”flat stock galvanized steel
2 each 2” “L” brackets
1 each Aluminium “L” channel ½” x ¼” x 36”
2 each Boards 6” x ~18” x ½”
These are for the Z Axis – try to get clean straight boards.
Order
12 de1 53
each 1” x 1” x 12” Delrin Plastic 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
McMaster Carr Machine
PN 8739K92 (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC and 3D Printer: 19 ... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
Combination CNC
50% for the CNC Machine
and 50% and
for the 3D 3D Printer
Printer by
3 each ) inMcMaster
¼” couplers 3D-Printing
Carr 6412K11 )
1 each Electric Cutout Tool Harbor Freight has these for ~$20
This is the business end of your CNC
) 19 Steps
advertisement If you already have a similar tool with a 1/8" collet, that will work as well
 Collection  Favorite 
I Made it! Share 
It’s the next item that counts!
1 each Three Flute Coated Carbide End Mill 1/8"
McMaster Carr PN 8927A531 $19.00 but worth every cent!
This “will” cut HEMI pistons!
This is where you don’t go cheap.
No matter what you cut, from cardboard to steel.
Basic 2BEIGH3 Video
Step 9: Getting Those Stepper Motors Running
(/file/FONYW8BH1YOIRRQ/)
13 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
(/file/F83UFXYH1ZG7T5R/)
So, those stepper motors and controllers should have arrived by now!
No reason to go further till we can move motors!
Gather parts:
Computer with 5 volt Printer port-
Load/Install MACH3 SW
Load install LazyCAM SW
Stepper motors
Stepper control and driver boards
Power supplies
MACH3
This SW talks to the printer port with pulses that tell the stepper electronics what
direction and how far to rotate the motors. It has an excellent and proven track
record in the CNC world. It also has a lot of variable/settings that can take a
while to learn. Rather than post a tutorial on MACH3, please go to the Artsoft
Web site as there as several great videos on setup for Mach3 and LazyCAM
To move you along, I will include my control file as it already has settings for the
machine we’re building.
Steps for MACH3

1. Install MACH3 you should have rebooted after install as required.
2. Leave the stepper controller and motors off and disconnected for now
3. Open/run MACH3 and then simply close it
4. Download my Mach3Mill.xml file
5. Make a backup of your existing Mach3Mill.xml file
6. Copy the downloaded file over your existing Mach3Mill.xml located in the “C:\
Mach3 Directory
7. Reboot
8. Run Mach3
9. If the reset button blinks, clk it
14 de10.
53Go to Config/Ports-Pins/motor output and see the setting noted. 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
11. The DIR Low active and Step low active are the 2 items that may be different
on your controller from mine.and
When (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC Machine 3Dwe get to the
Printer: 19motors,
... and they don’t turn,
Combination CNCtoMachine
these are the settings click/change.and 3D Printer by
taulman
12.(/member/taulman/
) in 3D-Printing
My XML file is set for the ¼ (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
20 rods with a step division of 8 )
13. I have attached a simple part in gcode for the 3D Printer.
14. Downloadh
) 19 Steps
it and within MACH3 load it. You may need to change the
extension, but M3 will read it.
15. You should see the part in the small graphic window.
16. Clk the ZERO X, ZERO Y, ZERO Z, ZERO 4 buttons
17. Clk the green Cycle start and the SW starts the process.
18. You’ll see the progress in the small upper right window, but it is slow as the
machine must cut slow.
19. For visual effect, just keep clicking the FEED RATE + arrow to speed it up.
Not for actual part cutting!
Motors and Drivers

1. Hook up the motors to the driver boards first using the supplied board and
motor documentation.
NOTE: Do not power the driver boards without a motor connected or they’ll be
damaged.
2. Use a few buss bars to keep track of grounds and power.
3. Use an outlet strip with a switch to turn on the power supplies.
4. NOTE: Don’t assume anything on power supply polarities. Use the meter to
measure and mark polarities.
5. Hook up the 7-9 volts to all boards as needed.
The 7-9 volts is just the low level circuitry power supply and draws less than an
amp. Careful, a +5 volt power supply won’t work.
6. Hook up the 12 volt PS – Again, if you don’t have a single supply, then
connect the grounds together of four supplies, but the + terminal only goes to a
single driver board when there are individual boards. If you have a single board
with all 4 axis, then you must use a single 12 volt 10+ amp power supply
some people use a old power supply from a computer. Do a search on this site
for examples.
7. Connect a fully populated 25 pin printer cable from the computer to the control
board.
8. Connect the interface cable from the control board to the four driver boards if
you have individual boards.
9. With MACH3 running, turn on power.
10. The motors should lock/click.
11. You should NOT be able to turn the shaft with your fingers.
12. Place a sticky note paper on each shaft. (so you’ll see them turn)
13. Use the left, right, up, down arrow keys on the comp keyboard to rotate the
X and Y motors
14. Use the page up and page down to rotate the Z motor
15. Use the numeric keypad + and – to rotate the 4th motor
16. If the 4th motor does not respond, go to config/system hotkeys and A/U++ to
make the + key + and A/U—to make the – key reverse.
17. Again, if the motors do not move, you may need to click and change the
signal polarity (direction) as noted above.
With motors running, you’ve won the biggest CNC/3D Printer battle.
This is the part that stops most people from building a CNC machine or
Printer. Take your time and check your work before turning power “ON”.
Believe me, it all gets easier from here! Even the 3D Printer is easier than this
initial step.
In the photo, you'll see a roundish grey unit with a knob on top. This is an
Auto-transformer that I use to vary speed of the cutting tool. You will need to
reduce the speed of the cutter to cut plastic, but we'll use a light dimmer as we
only need ~55volts at the cutter for plastic.
15 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
Download (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F17/L9L5/H1YONJ2J/F17L9L5H1YONJ2J.xml)
)
Mach3Mill.xml and 3D Printer: 19 ...
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F17/L9L5/H1YONJ2J http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
) in 3D-Printing
/F17L9L5H1YONJ2J.xml) (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
)
Download h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/ ) 19 Steps

2 by
Download 3 wiring.pdf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FZE/7F1A/H2WEWS5G
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FZE/7F1A/H2WEWS5G/FZE7F1AH2WEWS5G.pdf)
/FZE7F1AH2WEWS5G.pdf)
ATX(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FYZ/R72V/H4AGKAZP/FYZR72VH4AGKAZP.pdf)
Download PS Schematic.pdf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FYZ/R72V/H4AGKAZP
/FYZR72VH4AGKAZP.pdf)
Step 10: Precision CNC Table
(/file/FH0S6OGH27LS7TY/)
Show All Items
Take a look at the CAD Drawing image and the photo's to get an idea of our
Precision CNC Table. It looks like a lot of parts, but there are 10 "Y" braces that
are all identical.
For the X Axis, the table will use 3/8 steel rod and travels along the rod with a
captured bearing.
This keeps our cost down as linear bearings are extremely expensive and we'll
need several. This bearing is at any HW store as it's used for patio door rollers.
~ $5.00 a pair.
The Y Axis uses the same bearings, but on 3/4 square aluminum tubing as the Y
table will move almost completely to either side of the X Axis. We will brace the
X Axis as it's hard to believe how much a 3/8 " rod will bend in just 28".!
The material is 0.220 Plexiglass or extruded acrylic that you can get at the big
16 deHW53stores. Its tough stuff as used in the horizontal plane on this project. 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
NOTE: To cut the largest part for this on the lower precision table, you must
make sureCNC
your low res tableand
can 3D
cut aPrinter:
12" x 12"19
part. (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination Machine ... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
You DO NOT cut) the
in 3D-Printing(/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
outline.....Just have the HW store guy cut you a 12" x) 12"
piece. Lowes sells 18" x 24" x .22" I have them cut 2 pc's 12 x 12 and give me
the rest for mehto cut smaller parts from.
) 19 Steps
The drawing shows a cut plastic part for the threaded rod nut, this
advertisement has been
changed to a small block of delrin drilled and tapped to 1/4 20 for a much better
fit and easier assembly.
The 12" x 12" x 2" block of wood on top of the table is so we can mount our
material easily and in different locations to cut without scaring our nice clear
plexiglass.
If you look you can see where my bit went a bit lower than I planned on a part or
two!
Parts are connected via a TEE and SLOT that we'll cut in the plastics. This
makes for a very strong right angle mechanical connection of the parts. All
assembly screws are 1/4 20 1" Philips The screws used for the roller bearings
are the same for the X Axis, but 2" for the Y axis. You'll need twice as many
nuts and washers as some screws get more than one of each. I don't count
these out as you may not want all the bearings. My 2BEIGH3 only uses 8 for X
and 8 for Y, but my design denotes 22 for maximum precision.
Step 11: 2BEIGH3 Precision CNC Table BOM and Assembly
(/file/FF3EXQMH1YOISX4/)
17 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
The fist image shows the exploded view for your reference. Again, as we have
already cut our plastic, it' simply a matter of screws and nuts.
Bom
QTY Desc
2 each 3/8 DIA. X 36” steel rods – Stainless
2 each ¾” x 36” square Aluminium Tubing
16 – 22 Patio Door Slide Bearings
BOX 100 pc’s of 1” ¼ 20 Phlips screws
2 BOX 100 pc’s of ¼ 20 nuts and washers – Stainless
1 each “T” Nut for ¼ 20
1 YPlate
1 XPlate
10 Y Struts
1 Y Stepper Mount
2 Y TNUT Plates
Assembly per the drawing is straight forward.

4 Items of note:
1. The "T" nut you get from the hardware store must have 2-3 small holes to
mount in the the plastic Y strut.
You may need to drill and use a slightly smaller screw than a 6/32 for the T
nut. Either way, it's plastic and you need to drill slooowly as to not chip the
plastic. Once assembled, this is strong, but getting there requires a bit of care
on mounting the T nut.
NOTE: I have updated both the X axis and Y axis Threaded rod nuts based on
excellent user suggestions. The material is Delrin and the last 2 photos denote
the dim's. These are a breeze to drill and tap. They go a long way to decrease
backlash and increase precision. My thanks to all of the users contributions.
2. The only spacing issue, is that you need to make sure the bearings for the Y
axis are all spaced the same, yet long enough to allow the Y plate to clear the
top of the Y stepper motor. So from the bottom of the Y Plate to the center of
the bearing curvature, it should be about 34mm.
3. The drawing shows the square tubes at about 15".....to make the drawing
easier....They are actually, 36" cut to about the max depth of my table or 28"
4. The Y axis threaded rod will need to be reduced in length. I waited till I set
the table on the frame, measured and cut the Y axis threaded rod about 3" from
the frame neck.
Next
Connection of Table to Frame - Assemble the complete table except X Axis
threaded rod and stepper motor.
Set the table on the frame.
Drop a nut on a string down from your estimate of where the router bit will
be...about 3" out from the flange.
18 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
Align the X plate with the Y plate.
Center theCNC
table where the nut denotes the location (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination Machine and 3D Printer: 19 of
...the router bit. http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
Combination
Install the X axisCNC Machine
threaded andmotor
rod and stepper 3D Printer
connecting by
them with the
coupler ) in 3D-Printing
ordered earlier. (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
)
Shim the stepper up so the threaded rod is parallel with the 3/8" steel rods.
Clamp the 3/8"hrods to the right leg of the table and center the stepper motor.
Download (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/ ) 19 Steps
Turn on the stepper system and while holding the stepper motor,
advertisement  let it pull the
Collection I Made it!  Favorite  Share 
table to the right side leaving about 1-2" of clearance. Be careful as you do
this. The table should not move very fast at all.
Once the table is to the right side of the frame, you're at your mechanical
reference point.
You should now mark and drill a 0.250 " hole in the end of the 3/8 " rods and
having marked the location on the pipe, drilled a through hole at three of the four
intersections. Right close, right far, left far.....not left close.
You should now add 1/4-20 " 2" - 21/2 " bolts to secure the table to the frame.
Mark and drill holes in the two "L" brackets to mount the stepper to the pipe.
Use your arrow keys on your keyboard to make sure the tables move as
designed.
Note: Be careful moving the Y axis toward you so as not to have it's "T" nut
reach the stepper coupler.
Remember, you have not installed any limit switches yet, so there is NO limit!
You should lightly lube both threaded rods with a non drying lube. Something
with PTFE/Teflon in it works well.
NOTE:
Do not get caught up in trying to make everything line up perfectly. It doesn't
matter...The X and Y are aligned within the assembly and the Z has no X or
Y....Just up and down. You could mount the table off by 20 degrees in the
horizontal plane and it wouldn't matter. What's important is that when we tell the
X axis to move 20 mm, "that" it moves 20 mm.....no more, no less and that's
done in calibration and my XML file is already set up for this design mechanics.
But we'll check to be sure.
YTNut
Download holder.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FST/40TV/H21CGLN8
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FST/40TV/H21CGLN8/FST40TVH21CGLN8.dxf)
/FST40TVH21CGLN8.dxf)
XPlate.dxf
Download
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F3R/ZNZ4/H29XSNSE
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F3R/ZNZ4/H29XSNSE/F3RZNZ4H29XSNSE.dxf)
/F3RZNZ4H29XSNSE.dxf)
Y Stepper
Download Mounting Pl… (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FA5/RV9S/H29XSNSF
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FA5/RV9S/H29XSNSF/FA5RV9SH29XSNSF.dxf)
/FA5RV9SH29XSNSF.dxf)
YPlate.dxf
Download
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FRX/NG9J/H1YOISZ2
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FRX/NG9J/H1YOISZ2/FRXNG9JH1YOISZ2.dxf)
/FRXNG9JH1YOISZ2.dxf)
YStrut.dxf
Download
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F28/BRMK/H21CGLN9
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F28/BRMK/H21CGLN9/F28BRMKH21CGLN9.dxf)
/F28BRMKH21CGLN9.dxf)
2BEIGH3
Download CNC DXFs.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FA2/FDLQ/H2MYK5SZ
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FA2/FDLQ/H2MYK5SZ/FA2FDLQH2MYK5SZ.dxf)
/FA2FDLQH2MYK5SZ.dxf)
Step 12: 2BEIGH3 Z Axis for All Configurations
19 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
(/file/FBRMA4BH1YOIT13/)
"Z"
The 2BEIGH3 Z Axis uses one "center drawer slide". They are rated at 100+
lbs, so they're very good for this purpose.
They are great in the X and Y axis, but we'll want to shim them for 45 degree
angles as they do give a bit at 45.
NOTE, you do not need to shim the Z Axis if you're not building the precision
CNC.
The Z Axis is basically two boards connected to the drawer slide. The Stepper
motor is literally wood screwed into one of the top corners (for now). We will cut
a piece of the delrin and tap it as out threaded rod nut.
With the Basic table operational, we will build/cut a more secure bracket for the
Z Stepper motor.
For the CNC, this axis has to support the weight of your router, dremel, or other
cutting device.
For the 3D printer, it supports the hot end only as the extruder is mounted off the
frame.
As with the drawer slides on the basic CNC table, use small screws to make
sure the head of the screw does not block the travel of the slide.
To mount your dremel, or router, I used plain old metal strapping, some wood
screws and a strip of rubber under the strapping to reduce vibration. Again,
once the basic table is operational, you can cut a better, more accurate
mounting bracket.
The Z Axis threaded rod nut is made out of the delrin you bought. Simply cut
and drill to the drawing (in mm's).
Then use your 1/4 - 20 tap and tap the lone hole for the threaded rod.
A word on the attached photos. Don't let all those wires scare you. I have
simply added some 12 volt fans to keep every motor cool.
Here's the list of wires/cables:
X motor
20 deY53
motor 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
Z motor
Extruder motor (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination
X fan CNC Machine and 3D Printer by
Y fan ) in 3D-Printing
)
Z fan
Extruder fan h
) 19 Steps
Thermocouple
Power to hot-end or cutting router
See..! Pretty simple stuff, but it's scattered, to where the motors are and looks
complicated!
Step 13: Thoughts on CNC
(/file/FYVV7DRH21CGLOE/)
As I mentioned, until I started this project, I knew nothing of setting up a

CNC.
I've learned that it's much less complicated than it looks hardware wise.
The Software assumes you have some mechanical CAD/Drawing knowledge,
and let's face it, if you're building the 2BEIGH3, you should have some CAD
training. I suppose you could just dl designs from the web and build those,
but.....you're an inventor....right?....
Important tips/notes/lessons/points:
1. Frame is to be "tight"
2. Carbide bit.....sounds like overkill.....it's not.....you'll see when you get it...it
can cut you just holding it!
3. Calibration. that's distance in mm's or inches. NOT where X and Y stops or
limit switches are.
4. Watch ALL of the Artsoft videos.......twice!
5. Don't complicate any assembly.
6. Getting the stepper motors running with Mach3 is your biggest hurdle. And
it's not really that tough.
7. When your friends find out you have your own CNC......be prepared to be
asked to cut all kinds of stuff!
8. Once I got the basic table running, I made all kinds of little improvements, fan
holders/frames, stepper motor bracket for the Z axis, etc. You will too.
9. Don't look back.....we got that 3D printer next...!
Step 14: 2BEIGH3 3D Printer Overview
21 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
(/file/FYPSBAXH1YONK9V/)
Show All Items
Overview
We consider CNC machining to be "subtractive manufacturing" or "subtractive
build" method. We start out with a bar or slab of material and cut off what we
don't need, tossing the remains away. While you can make 3D like objects,
there are still limitations. There will be scrap on the floor as unusable material.
The 3D Printer is "Additive Manufacturing" as we take a constant source of
material and force it to a desired shape. Nothing is wasted.
The 2BEIGH3 3D Printer uses the same operational principles as most other
current X-Y plastic extrusion printers. Again, the main goal was for a
combination machine that could quickly be configured for CNC - 3D - CNC.
A major benefit of the 2BEIGH3 is that the hot-end ( the component that heats
the plastic) and extruder (the mechanism that pushes the plastics rods into the
hot-end) are designed for more than just ABS or PLA. They are also designed
for NYLON and other polymers. NYLON has a ton of features I want everyone
to experiment with in the design of new parts that can take advantage of it's
properties. I have provided an MSDS for NYLON for those interested.
There are of course differences in how we print with NYLON as opposed to
ABS. One of the main differences, is that we will "melt" ABS, PLA and PET but
we will "cold extrude" Nylon, Nylon polymers, Acrylic and polycarbonate. Of
22 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
course, the Tighter polymers like Nylon are not really cold, but they are not
melted either. And this is where (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC Machine andthe
3Dhigh "pushing
Printer: 19power
... or compression
Combination
capability" of myCNC Machine
extruder is required. and 3D
This is alsoPrinter
why retraction
by isn't advised
as the ) in 3D-Printing
pressure is large enough(/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
to make it difficult to completely relieve by )
simply pulling the material back.
Download
When you learn h how
(/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
) 19 Steps
to print with NYLON, I am sure you'll be pleased with the
final results.
And I'm sure you'll find, like I did, that the major key to parts printed in Nylon and
Nylon polymers is that it's tight bonding literally eliminates "de-lamination"!
Going just a bit deeper at this point....We can control the "density" of the internal
fill of printed parts from within the software. NYLON is very pliable as you
know, so we can literally change the hardness/firmness/tensil strength of a part
by changing it's fill percentage. Want a small keyboard button overlay for a
control box.....fill at 25%....want a bearing that has a bit of give to reduce
vibration.....fill at 50%...want a hard almost UN-bendable lever....fill at 100% and
so on.
For those familiar with 3D printers, here are some differences when printing
with NYLON.
I'm sure you folks can teach me a lot more about 3D printing and I appreciate
your comments.
Nylon welds to Kapton. (Kapton tape is a super high temperature rated tape for
heating appliances.)
The tiny threads left behind can not be removed with acetone as NYLON laughs
at acetone.
I hit the part with a propane torch for about .3 sec to burn the threads.
NYLON will absorb water, so keep it dry when not in use or it will add blemishes
to your prints.
If your hot-end isn't mechanically tight, the NYLON will find a place to leak
out.....makes a mess.
NYLON strands from printing are not a fire hazard.
Nothing glues to NYLON except other melted NYLON so if you need multi-part
assemblies, they should be designed to be held together with hardware.
NOTE: Some of the photos of the Child's Insole are very high resolution.
2BEIGH3 3D Print Demo 1
As noted in the previous videos, the flexibility and pliability of parts made with
Nylon and similar polymers opens up a whole new group of possible parts and
their usage.
It's also important to point out that one of the major complaints of parts printed
in ABS and PLA, is lack of strength or mechanical structure. Even today, some
kits come with instructions to have the end user print a series of replacement
parts for the 3D Printer they've just purchased.
The very nature of 3D printed parts means that all parts rely on the attachment
of each individual layer to the last layer.
23 de 53
One of the major benefits of printing with tighter polymers like Nylon and it's
3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
chemical relatives, is the extremely tight bond from (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC Machine and 3D Printer: 19one
... layer to the next. In
Combination CNC
reality, while these partsMachine and
may look similar 3D Printer
to parts printed in ABS
by or PLA, their
mechanical ) inand
strength 3D-Printing
structure is, in some cases, almost that of a Die )
Extruded part.
So those currently
) 19 Steps
building a 2BEIGH3 can see the strength of their future
parts, I am posting the next video.
This is a preliminary video made by one of the technicians as the samples I've
submitted are not scheduled to go through full test for another month. The
technician sent me three short videos, two each at 320 frames/sec and one 180
frames/sec. In these videos a sample of polymer 618 (my part number) is struck
by an 8lb sledge hammer.
For those of you that will want to build tough parts, you'll want to take a min to
watch.
High Speed Video of initial pre-fracture test of 3D Printed Polymer
Even if you're not ready to build a 2BEIGH3 just yet, please take a moment to
watch the videos.
With the excellent input from others that have contributed to blogs, postings
here on instructables, comment sections and product reviews all over the web, It
is my hope that you find the 3D Printer configuration of a 2BEIGH3, helps us all
to put the
"Disruptive" back into a "Disruptive Technology".
NYLON.pdf
Download
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FH5/ZVG2/H1YOIT2S
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FH5/ZVG2/H1YOIT2S/FH5ZVG2H1YOIT2S.pdf)
/FH5ZVG2H1YOIT2S.pdf)
Downloadnylon msds.pdf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FME/OPPB/H2BMNWA8

(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FME/OPPB/H2BMNWA8/FMEOPPBH2BMNWA8.pdf)
/FMEOPPBH2BMNWA8.pdf)
Slicer
Download Settings.doc (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FWM/13FF/H2MYJZ1K
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FWM/13FF/H2MYJZ1K/FWM13FFH2MYJZ1K.doc)
/FWM13FFH2MYJZ1K.doc)
Step 15: 2BEIGH3 3D Printer X and Y Table
24 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
(/file/F18VB0SH1YOIUJ6/)
Show All Items
The 2BEIGH3 3D Printer X-Y Table is a fast belt driven table that does not use
linear bearings, but instead depends on gravity as we don't expect the table to
operate upside down. This is not meant to be funny, as some printers "can"
work at a 90 degree angle.
Rather than linear bearings we will use delrin pieces that will slide easily along
the 3/8" steel rods. We will also use the delrin pieces to level the Y platform as
that is one of the more important 3D printer requirements.
We will reuse the X and Y stepper motors from the CNC table as we have
couplers that allow a quick change out from one table to the other. I cheat here
and actually bought 2 additional stepper motors to reduce my change-over time.
The X Azis stepper does most of the hard work here as it must push the
complete Y axis along with it's motor left an right.
One change I would make would be to use a NEMA 17 or 11 for the Y Axis to
reduce it's weight. This is what is holding my resolution back for the moment. I
can slow the unit down with ABS and it's fine, but we can loose control of the
NYLON at to slow a speed as it will start to fold over (Fancy term for "drip") due
to it's viscosity.
To clamp the belts to the tables, we will use 2 pieces of the 1" x 1" delrin. One
tapped for a 1/4 20 and the other for a 1/4 thru hole. take a look at the drawings
and pdf for dimention data. You will need to locate the hole for the clamp in the
center of your tables, but again, it's better to build the tables up and then lay a
25 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
belt across the two sprockets to best locate the position of the clamp hole.
)
Combination CNC
For Mach3, close Machine
the program and
and copy 3Dexisting
your PrinterXML file
by to a safe place
taulman (/member/taulman/
in case power goes) in 3D-Printing
out. (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
)
You need to do this because Mach3 dosn't update it's xml file till you close the
program. Untilhthen, your changes are in memory and not the xml file.
) 19 Steps
DL my next XML file as it's configured for 3D printing. Again, you

advertisement should only
need to change the two settings mentioned earlier on polarity.
My XML file assumes all motors are set as follows:
X and Y = 1/16 step
Z and A(extruder) = 1/8 step
BOM for the HW store

4 each 3/8" x 36 " SS rod
1 each 24" x 24" x 1" MDF Wood
1 each 1” x 1” x 12” Delrin Plastic
McMaster Carr PN 8739K92
1 each 24" x 12" x 0.220 Plexiglass - We will hand drill this part
4 each XL Series timing Sprokets
McMaster Carr PN = 57105K14
2 each 63" timing belts
McMaster Carr PN =6484K453
Lots of 1/4 - 20 1" screws and 2 each 1/4 - 20x 3" bolts
4 each Patio door roller bearings
NOTE: This is slightly different than the CAD image as I found that
there was not enough weight on the Y Axis to make the delrin
bearing work.
BOM from our Basic CNC Cut parts

8 each Bar Struts
2 each Transports
2 each Stepper motor mounts
1 each Y Axis Base Plate
Assembly:
You'll assemble all of the X axis and just the Y axis table first.
Then set the parts out on your MDF table and mark for holes to drill. Again, 1/4"
holes.
The Y axis delrin bearings sitting on the X axis rods will indicate spacing. I do
this rather than dimensioning a large board, only to force parts into position.
This approach allows for tolerance for all of the individual parts.
After initial X assembly, complete Y axis assembly.
You will note that the 3/8" rods float in the supports at this point. Tis is just for
initial assembly. After you have the unit assembled, you should use snug fitting
wire ties on each side of the supports to secure the 3/8" rod. Otherwise, they
may move out of their location.
The Y axis plate is just a small base plate. The intent is that you will want some
main printing plate on top of this base plate and that you may want a different
size than I use. I use a 12" square of the plexiglass only because I don't
currently plan on printing larger parts. A 14" square is about the limit on a
centered table. Other wise......scale the whole unit up!
2BEIGH3
Download 3D Printer Ta… (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FRI/D7QZ/H2G5ZZ0Q
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FRI/D7QZ/H2G5ZZ0Q/FRID7QZH2G5ZZ0Q.dxf)
/FRID7QZH2G5ZZ0Q.dxf)
Mach3Mill.xml
Download
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FBE/UJDZ/H1YONJOR
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FBE/UJDZ/H1YONJOR/FBEUJDZH1YONJOR.xml)
26 de 53
/FBEUJDZH1YONJOR.xml) 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
Download (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FGW/VUHM/H3W4YDPU/FGWVUHMH3W4YDPU.pdf)
)
belt clamp1.pdf and 3D Printer: 19 ... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FGW/VUHM/H3W4YDPU
) in 3D-Printing
/FGWVUHMH3W4YDPU.pdf) (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
)
) 19 Steps
Step 16: 2BEIGH3 3D Printer Extruder Assembly
(/file/FRVD817H29XSPLU/)
(/file/FU5NIAQH27LSA5S/)
Show All Items
The purpose of the extruder is to pull the material off of the spool or roll, and
push it with force along/through a tube on a path into the hot-end.
The 2BEIGH3 3D Printer Extruder Assembly is similar to the geared extruders

used on other machines. I have heard these referred to as a "Wade's" type of
extruder. Please do a search on "Wade Extruder for 3D Printing" and read
about the variations and usages.
The major difference in the 2BEIGH3 extruder from other geared units, is that
the gear ratio is about 15% larger and the important difference is that the
2BEIGH3 extruder has spikes in the HOBB's screw (the section of the 2" screw
27 dethat
53the material comes in contact with) to grab the Nylon as well as the ABS. 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
Without spikes, the Nylon is far to slippery and the extruder, will eventually rub a
flat spot inCNC
the Nylon and stop extruding completely. (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination Machine and 3D Printer: 19 ... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
Combination CNC isMachine
The 2BEIGH3 extruder and 3D
seen in the photos. ThePrinter
gears are by
cut from plexiglass
(extruded acrylic). )You
in 3D-Printing
will see (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
that a white lithium grease has been added to )
the teeth to reduce friction as extruded acrylic is not something we want gears
Download h now
made of, but for
(/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/ ) 19 Steps
it will get us printing. I will eventually post another
instructable to show you how to transition to a printed extruder 
advertisement with NYLON that I Made it!
Collection  Favorite  Share 
will not need lubrication. I'm still using this extruder as it's working great...
Assembly
All screws ( except the hobbed screw and pressure handle pivot) and nuts are
6-32. The plates are spaced apart by the thickness of a nut. Just add screws
to the main plate, add nuts, add the next plates, add a nut, add last plate, add a
nut.....kinda like a sandwich.
The small gear is epoxied to the Stepper motor shaft.
The stepper shaft is 6mm or .250. You have cut the gears with the basic
CNC table from the CAD prints and I designed the center hole to be tight. You
will need to reem/file it to get a snug fit, Then use some sandpaper to roughen
the shaft surface of the stepper. Do not epoxie till you have built the assembly
and have aligned the gears. Remember, the material is just 0.220 and we want
a much surface area as possible as the gears mesh.
A simple "fast curing two part epoxy" is used.
TIP: I cut 4 small gears and 2 large gears in the event I needed to break a small
gear to reposition it, or large gear during assembly.
The business end of the extruder is that 2" 1/4 -20 Screw. Between the two
"threaded "fender washers", we have used a dremel cutting disk to cut small
slots along the opposite axis of the threads. This gives us the "spikes" we will
need to grab and push the NYLON and ABS into the hot end.
The two washers are what's known as "Fender Washers" with a 3/16 ID and 1"
OD. The hole is just right to tap with our 1/4- 20 tap and will turn the washer into
a very thin nut!
These two threaded fender washers will be on each side of our ABS rod or line
to keep it from bending or moving away from the spikes.
The two delrin plugs - # 1 is the same width as we have between the two
threaded washers. Delrin is just as slippery as Teflon and Nylon, but very hard.
The plug #2 is just a 1" x 1" x 1/4" square that pushes against the first plug. The
handle or lever, is sping loaded and applies force ( a lot) on to plug # 1, in turn
plug # 2 in turn pressing the ABS or NYLON rod firmly against the spikes.
The distance between the threaded washers is 0.125 or 3mm+ In the photo
you'll see a white tube just above the spikes screw. I found that the pressure
was so great that I needed to guide the ABS and NYLON directly to the tubing
connector. The tube is a 1/4 OD and 1/8 ID Nylon standoff. The spring is just
an available spring at the HW store I tested till I got max pressure without
breaking plastic and making it easy to change from Nylon to ABS and back.
The two 626ZZ bearings are the same as the other patio door bearings. You
can either order these online, or just pop them out of the patio roller shell. Note
(in the photo) the crimp side and this is the side the bearing will pop out on. I
installed a 1/4 20 bolt with a nut on both sides of the bearing. Placed it in a vice,
give it a good pop and out comes the bearing. These are about $2.00 online.
Once I cut the parts, it only took about 20-30 min to assemble.
The Extruder is connected to the hot-end via a "bowdens" system as seen on

some Ultimaker printers.
This is a "Quick Connect Coupler MMC PN 51215K106"
This makes it easy to put the extruder anywhere we want, and to change
hot-ends.
The 2BEIGH3 uses hot-ends with the nozzle installed for different resolutions.
My 2BEIGH3 has three hot-ends that all mount the same.
1. 0.62mm for low res or large parts.
2. 0.42 for most prints
28 de3.530.32 for hi res small items 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
0.32 is about the limit of the X-Y table stepper drivers. Anything smaller and
we'll need CNC
to get drivers that and
are smaller than 1/16 (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination Machine 3D Printer: 19step.
... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
Combination CNC
The hot-ends mount the Machine and to3D
same and connect thePrinter
same material
by tube. I have a
taulman (/member/taulman/
different config file )ininslic3r
3D-Printing (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
for each nozzle. )
I designed the 2BEIGH3 so you can use other extruder and hot end designs.
Again, I want people
)
to hack the 2BEIGH3 for their needs.
19 Steps

Please note the assembly photos.
The intent is as follows:
1. Show the material path through the unit
2. Show and provide more detail on the location of the bearings, washers and
slotted (hobbed) screw.
3. Show the spring loading.
4. Show the added plastic tube that directs the material outward.
5. Show the tapered Delrin block that presses the material against the slotted
screw.
I have also uploaded the 2D dxf files rotated for some CAD systems that want
everything on an XY plane. These are denoted with an "R".
NOTE: (The photos show a Red Nylon small gear as I am getting ready to
design an all Nylon Extruder and am currently testing gears.)
2BEIGH3
Download Extruder DX… (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FYR/AKY6/H27LSBGB
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FYR/AKY6/H27LSBGB/FYRAKY6H27LSBGB.dxf)
/FYRAKY6H27LSBGB.dxf)
sub plate
Download D.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F1F/TI1W/H2WEJAVI
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F1F/TI1W/H2WEJAVI/F1FTI1WH2WEJAVI.dxf)
/F1FTI1WH2WEJAVI.dxf)
large
Download gear.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F2W/5YMD/H2WEUJJT
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F2W/5YMD/H2WEUJJT/F2W5YMDH2WEUJJT.dxf)
/F2W5YMDH2WEUJJT.dxf)
main(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FES/7J7Y/H2WELJXX/FES7J7YH2WELJXX.dxf)
Download plate.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FES/7J7Y/H2WELJXX
/FES7J7YH2WELJXX.dxf)
Material
Download release handl… (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F6K/OZ34/H2WESA7H
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F6K/OZ34/H2WESA7H/F6KOZ34H2WESA7H.dxf)
/F6KOZ34H2WESA7H.dxf)
Mounting
Download plate A.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FM8/GCFZ/H2WESA7I
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FM8/GCFZ/H2WESA7I/FM8GCFZH2WESA7I.dxf)
/FM8GCFZH2WESA7I.dxf)
Mounting
Download plate B.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FSG/7YNX/H2WESA7K
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FSG/7YNX/H2WESA7K/FSG7YNXH2WESA7K.dxf)
/FSG7YNXH2WESA7K.dxf)
Small
Download Gear.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FG4/2OU6/H2WEUJJV
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FG4/2OU6/H2WEUJJV/FG42OU6H2WEUJJV.dxf)
/FG42OU6H2WEUJJV.dxf)
sub (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F36/HS73/H2WESA7L/F36HS73H2WESA7L.dxf)
Download plate A.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F36/HS73/H2WESA7L
/F36HS73H2WESA7L.dxf)
sub plate
Download B.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F7C/B2I3/H2WENWUI
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F7C/B2I3/H2WENWUI/F7CB2I3H2WENWUI.dxf)
/F7CB2I3H2WENWUI.dxf)
sub(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FJN/2VA9/H2WESA7M/FJN2VA9H2WESA7M.dxf)
Download plate C.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FJN/2VA9/H2WESA7M
29 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
/FJN2VA9H2WESA7M.dxf)
)
Combination
large gear
Download CNC(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FLD/V7LL/H350EJF7
R.dxf Machine and 3D Printer by
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FLD/V7LL/H350EJF7/FLDV7LLH350EJF7.dxf)
) in 3D-Printing
)
/FLDV7LLH350EJF7.dxf)
) 19 Steps
sub plate
Download C R.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FXO/H9AL/H2WETAII
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FXO/H9AL/H2WETAII/FXOH9ALH2WETAII.dxf)
/FXOH9ALH2WETAII.dxf)
sub plate
Download D R.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FX4/IECR/H350EJK8
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FX4/IECR/H350EJK8/FX4IECRH350EJK8.dxf)
/FX4IECRH350EJK8.dxf)
main
Download plate R.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FNS/E19B/H347FMQW
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FNS/E19B/H347FMQW/FNSE19BH347FMQW.dxf)
/FNSE19BH347FMQW.dxf)
Material
Download release handl… (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FXM/JP2T/H347FLY9
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FXM/JP2T/H347FLY9/FXMJP2TH347FLY9.dxf)
/FXMJP2TH347FLY9.dxf)
Mounting
Download plate A R.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F28/RSC7/H2WEX743
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F28/RSC7/H2WEX743/F28RSC7H2WEX743.dxf)
/F28RSC7H2WEX743.dxf)
Mounting
Download plate B R.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FUN/36OC/H350EJK9
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FUN/36OC/H350EJK9/FUN36OCH350EJK9.dxf)
/FUN36OCH350EJK9.dxf)
Small
Download Gear R.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FRA/FRAD/H337K2LH
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FRA/FRAD/H337K2LH/FRAFRADH337K2LH.dxf)
/FRAFRADH337K2LH.dxf)
sub plate
Download A R.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F8S/GV3B/H337K2LJ
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F8S/GV3B/H337K2LJ/F8SGV3BH337K2LJ.dxf)
/F8SGV3BH337K2LJ.dxf)
sub(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FU7/V9EN/H347FMQX/FU7V9ENH347FMQX.dxf)
Download plate B R.dxf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FU7/V9EN/H347FMQX
/FU7V9ENH347FMQX.dxf)
Step 17: 2BEIGH3 3D Printer Hot-End
(/file/FBKIUSQH1YONJKB/)
30 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
Show All Items
The 2BEIGH3 hot-end is designed for quick replacement or swap out from job to
job. Just 2 screws mount the device to the Z Axis board. The Heater connects
with standard electrical spade lugs and the thermocouple uses one of the
support 6/32 threaded rods. Because there are minor differences, you'll need to
re-zero your Z Axis.
The 2BEIGH3 uses two tip types.

The first is the lower resolution tip. This is a .023" mig welding tip. See
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7814 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7814)
The small aluminum block is tapped to 1/4 - 28....there we go....knew we'd use
that 1/4 28!
The mig welding tip is drilled out with a 1/8" bit to about .200" from the tip.
The white cylinders are the Teflon/PTFE tubes we ordered. One inside the
other.
Careful with ABS

While this hot end is designed for NYLON, it can have issues you need to watch
for with ABS.
ABS changes states much faster than NYLON, and when you use ABS with this
hot-end, you must not let the ABS idle in the hot end as it will tend to pool inside
and the extruded material will start to vary in thickness/dia. What this means is
that you should always retract a few mm's of ABS or PLA material while
preparing for the next print.
I typically have a 1/8" tube blowing cool air on the lower section of the white
cylinder where it meets the aluminum to keep ABS from pooling.
High Resolution Nozzle

The second Hot-end nozzle is a higher resolution unit that you may already have
in your tool drawer. I have a free handful from a vendor as it had his LOGO on
it.....A pocket oiler
It is made of aluminum
It is threaded
It has a 0.5mm ID that we can roll to a smaller ID
It's cheap
They're everywhere. Even Amazon has ump-teen flavors.
(Of course you need one like in my photo, not an all plastic oiler)
Since I got my printer up and running, I have been printing parts for work and
friends.....it's almost always printing or cutting! The 2BEIGH3 can print a 55
31 dedegree
53 undercut, but starts to drop threads after that. So you have to design 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
with restraints in mind. Moreand
on that (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC Machine 3Dlater.
Printer: 19 ... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
taulman
BOM(/member/taulman/
) in 3D-Printing
)
1 each 1/2 OD x 1/4 " ID Teflon/PTFE Tube - each hot-end needs about 4"
Download
MMC PN 8547K31 h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/ ) 19 Steps
1 each
advertisement 1/4" OD x 1/8" ID Teflon/PTFE Tube - each hot-end needs about 5" I Made it!
MMC PN 8547K23
1 each #8 washer
1 each Coupler MMC PN 51215K106 or any HW Store
4' 3/8 neopreme tubing (Plumbing Section of your HW Store) Cut to
fit your installation.
1 each #6/32 x 24" threaded rod
4 each 6/32 nuts
1 each 120 volt heater cartridge MM Carr PN 3618K119
1 each aluminum block Cut from MMC PN 6023K291 -
Multipurpose Anodized Aluminum (Alloy 6061) 3/8" Thick X 2"
Width, 1' Length
1 each 0.023" mig welding tip - Harbor Freight $10 for 5 pc's
2 each male 1/4" spade terminals for #16 awg wire
1 each ring terminal for the thermocouple
1 each Delrin 1" x 1" x 4+ " MM Carr PN 8739K92 each hot-end needs
about 4"
1 each 1-2 amp 120 volt Light Dimmer
The Heater cartridge draws .56 Amps at 120 volts and a nominal
300ma at the printing temp
It is still not a light bulb, so we need a good Light Dimmer
capable of 1+ amps.
The Heater cartridge is isolated and CSA approved but you still
need to use covered Spade terminals for Safety.
NOTE: As to PTFE or as the rest of us know it “Teflon Non-Stick Coating for
cooking utensils” is of course the famous Dupont coating used by millions for
cooking. As any inventor or designer wants those that duplicate his efforts to be
safe, I’ll take a few lines to explain where concerns originate.
Since it’s invention back in 1938, there has been something known as the
“Teflon Controversy”. And to this day it is taught in colleges and universities. A
Google search on the term “Teflon Controversy” will provide you a wealth of
insight.
As for an in-depth and scientific description of Teflon Non-Stick Coating for
cooking utensils, this site is a good start.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene
As the author of this instructable and the designer of the 2BEIGH3, I am not a
polymer specialist and can not speak for Teflon Non-Stick Coating or as some
refer to it PTFE.
I can however, define the usage of Teflon in the actual 3D NYLON printing
process.
1. While the heater cartridge can reach temperatures as noted 600F, this is not
the actual printing temperature, as NYLON would boil at that value.
2. The actual temperature at print time is about 20 – 25 degrees above that of
ABS.
3. The circular area of the Teflon Non-Stick Coating that comes in contact with
heat is ½ inch”, 12mm dia. Or about 1/1000 of an
average frying pan.
4. The temperature at the point of contact on the hot-end is about 10 to 20
degrees higher than most people cook their meats but
certainly not as hot as an unattended frying pan left on the stove-top.
Again, this author respects and appreciates everyone's comments.
Assembly
Cut/Saw and Drill the Delrin per the print
32 deCut
53and Drill the Aluminum per the print 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
NOTE: The ID of the larger tube is slightly smaller than the OD of the smaller
tube. AfterCNC
you have cut to length, place the larger (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination Machine and 3D Printer: 19tube
... in a vice or clamp and
Combination CNCit'sMachine
run a 1/4" drill through center. We and
want a3D Printer
snug fit, so don't
bygo larger than
taulman
1/4.(/member/taulman/
Otherwise hot) plastic
in 3D-Printing (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
will find a way between the two tubes and as it )
expands a bit will start to limit the smooth flow of material to the aluminum block.
Download
Chamfer the Top h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/) 19 Steps
outside edge of the 1/2" tube so it's meets snug with the delrin.
Chamfer the bottom outside edge of the 1/4" tube so it'll sit guided
advertisement into the top of I Made it!
 Collection  Favorite  Share 
the 1/4-28 hole.
Note, this is where your plastic and NYLON will leak if there's not a good
pressure seal. The design is such that as you screw in the top connector, it will
push the 1/4 PTFE rod down and apply pressure to the chamfered end. This is
not fixed, as the PTFE will expand the first time we heat it up. If you notice
leaking around the 1/2" tube and aluminum block, tighten the connector to apply
more pressure to the inner tube. The washer keeps the inner tube from sliding
up into the connector.
You'll need to tap threads into the top of the Delrin block. This is an "NPT"
thread. As Delrin is easy to Tap, and Tap's are expensive, you can do as I did.
Just take a old peice of 1/2" pipe and use your dremel to cut about 12-14 slots in
the threads as shown. Works great! Again, time vs money.
Wrap three turns of Teflon tape around the threads of the mig tip.
You will need to drill with a 1/8" bit into the mig tip to about .2" from the tip
Use a sharp bit.
Use a very slow speed on your varible speed drill. The metal is very soft.
Use oil...then use more oil. 10W 30 works great.
The drill process will push some of the metal out the tip. Pull it out .
The 0.023 hole will still be clogged.
Use a 1/16 drill bit and just tap the bottom of the drilled hole....like you were
going to complete the hole with a smaller bit.
DO NOT push something from the tip in.....Take a small wire and push from the
inside (where you drilled) out and the shavings will come out the tip. Use
compressed air to blow out any other flecks of metal. If it won't open up, tap it
with the 1/16 bit again.
Crimp the Spade terminals to the heater cartridge wires. Do not solder as at
320c, they'll come UN-soldered.
Screw the tip into the aluminum block - tight. Be careful not to strip the tapped
hole. The goal is for the heater cartridge, to heat the alum and therefore the tip.
Measure and cut your threaded rod, install the thermocouple and you're good to
go.
The threaded rods are in my photos slightly bent. This is due to an earlier
insulator design that wouldn't hold up to the mechanical stress. And rather than
cut new rods, I just bent these into position.
As to the light dimmer, it was to get us up and printing, but of course we'll want a
more accurate way of maintaining temperature.
I suggest using a standard industrial PID controller. There are several on EBay
for about $20.00 or so.
Below is a photo and wires labled so you can see how one is connected. These
always lack "how to" info.
This uses a "K" thermocouple. It will come with a fancy plug, but cut it off and
simply cross the two wires. Where they cross the first point....that's where they
sense. This means you can twist the wire a few turns, but only the first "touch"
is sensed.
Hot(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FJJ/RF3M/H2WEYSOX/FJJRF3MH2WEYSOX.pdf)
Download End.pdf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FJJ/RF3M/H2WEYSOX
33 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
/FJJRF3MH2WEYSOX.pdf)
Step 18: 2BEIGH3 3D Printer (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC Machine and 3D Operaton
Printer: 19 ... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
(/file/F4U8MXNH1YONJNO/)
I have posted some videos of the operation of the printer and CNC.
I will address NYLON as it uses a modified process from ABS. You can view
hundreds of ABS time lapse printing videos on YT and I would suggest watching
these to get an idea as to how these units work.
Here we Go!
Make sure all steppers work.
Do not load NYLON yet....let's make sure all the motors work together.
Load the 2BEIGH3 gcode test file into Mach3.
Center the nozzle on the table and about 2" up.
Zero all 4 axis as we did earlier.
Hit "Cycle Start" and watch to make sure everything is doing what it should.
All four axis should be doing something during the first layers.
Reset and rezero
Place a sticky note paper under the nozzle
Move the nozzle down till it touches the sticky note paper.
The nozzle should "just" rub the paper, just enough to know it's there.
Zero the "Z" axis
Move Z up 5mm and over so the nozzle is not going to drip NYLON on the table
as we prime the tip.
Load the NYLON
Make sure our 4th axis is pushing the NYLON rod thru the tube. The Numeric
"+" key and "-" key control the 4th axis
Install the output end of the material tube into the top of the hot-end.
Pres the + key and watch the long tubing. When the NYLON get's to the cold
tip, it'll shake the long tube a bit...you have active pressure in the long tube at
this point.
34 deNow,
53 turn on the light dimmer to lowest. 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
Turn the dimmer up to 15%
You shouldCNC
watchMachine
the thermocouple (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination and 3Dtemp start to19
Printer: rise.
... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
Combination
If not, check yourCNC
wiring Machine and 3D
and meter settings. Printer
DO NOT Touch by
the Alum block to
taulman
see(/member/taulman/
if it's warm.....it) may
in 3D-Printing
be HOT! (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
)
Keep increasing the dimmer knob at 4 min intervals at ~5% till the temp reached
Download
250 c h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
) 19 Steps
Nylon may start to drip out of the nozzle....this is a good sign.  Collection
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I Made it!  Favorite  Share 
Caution here, not all thermocouples are the same.
What we're after is a nice pile of NYLON thread on the table from the nozzle.
We're not going to print just yet.
As you approch 250C keep tapping the + key.....a tap...don't hold it.
You will hear the sound of what sounds like boiling plastic.
At this point, you're close to the right temp.
Remember, once we get to the right temp, we need to "Mark the Dimmer Knob"
so we know where to set it the next time.
When the NYLON starts to run out in a thin line, you're there. You can hold the
+ key for 2 sec and a stream of NYLON should come out the nozzle.
Here's how to tell if your temp is right.
First, stop worrying about wasting NYLON....if you waste the whole $3.00 rod,
it's worth it
As the NYLON comes out of the nozzle, it will look one of three consistencies.
1. Very clear and shiny like toothpaste. It's to cold
2. Very clear, yet with lots of what looks like bubbles in the stream. This is
correct.
3. A dull stream with a foam like texture. This is to hot.
When you get a good stream, it's time to clk the Mack3 Cycle Start button.
If all goes as it should "Welcome yourself to a new world of creativity".......!
2BEIGH3 3D Printer Low Res Real Time Video
Because the Hot-End is designed to handle very high temperatures (450 c), I
have ordered both Delrin and Polycarbonate in 3mm rods!
Delrin is considered to be the work-horse of machined/tooled plastics. I have
been told that Delrin may not be usable as it should loose a binding component
in the thermoplast process, but a rod is only $2.50, and worth the effort.
Polycarbonate has similar properties along with its translucent qualities.
I'll add instuctables and refer to the 2BEIGH3 as these efforts progress.
One last safety tip. Find a way to add a limit switch that will turn off the heater
power at the end of a print. Look at my slic3r config file under gcode and you'll
see I send the X axis off about 8" in one direction. There's a limit switch at that
location that turns heater power "OFF".
The Linear Bearing noted earlier is up on the Autodesk123D gallery. This is a

good test part to determine if retraction can work in your configuration.
35 deRemaining
53 threads should be "out" of the BB raceway.
3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
The file or CNC
part is Machine
called "Linear Bearing 912" by 19
taulman (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination and 3D Printer: ... http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-C...
Update ) in 3D-Printing
- Printing with (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
Clear Acrylic )
Below is a video of the 2BEIGH3 printing with 0.125” Dia Clear Acrylic Material
As you might imagine,
) 19 Steps
there are several differences in printing this type of
material as compared to ABS, PLA, NYLON, etc.…
This printing is made possible by the taulman 4 orifice Hot-End. This Hot-End is
more complicated to build, than the already documented taulman NYLON
Hot-End. I have designed it in such a way so you can easily get the parts from
our present list of vendors. I won’t document the 4 orifice Hot-End here as this
Instructable is already very large. If there are enough requests, then I will write
a sub-instructable…(if they have those?).
I will point out a few items of interest to those that may want to print in acrylic.
First, the performance of the Printer and Hot-End for Acrylic:
1. Resolution - While the resolution of the 2BEIGH3 is fine for other 3D printing
materials, the optical properties of acrylic are such that it will amplify any
positional anomaly. With ABS and PLA, we get nice straight lines of plastic.
This is due to a how each thread cools as it is printed. With acrylic, the material
cools so quickly that every step in the stepper motor, every jar of the print table,
slack in the belts, backlash in the pulleys and maybe the neighbors kid crying
will modulate the oval reflections of a thread as it is positioned. And because
the threads are oval and optically clear, they will amplify these artifacts.
To understand this, you need to know that round optics, or spherical optics have
little or no DOF. And because of this, become more of a reflective device than
an optical collimating device. The best example I can give you is a laser level,
one that puts out a thin laser line. The laser is just any laser diode. The optics
to convert the beam to that fine line…..is a simple glass or plastic (acrylic)
cylinder. The internal reflections of the laser becomes reflective and transition
out in all directions along the cylindrical axis, i.e a thin line.
2. Impurities – read “bubbles” – As you watch the video, you’ll see that the initial
thread of acrylic from the Hot-End has bubbles. Unacceptable, of course. The
material must be modified and bubbles eliminated just prior to the material
leaving the tip, otherwise, the end part would not only look visually unappealing,
but it would have tiny dangerous sharp edges and be easily crushed. The 4
orifice Hot-End takes care of this and after the first 40-60mm during a print,
bubbles cease.
3. Optical properties – I doubt that you will ever be able to print usable optics
with this method. Even perfectly round fibers arranged in any configuration do
not lend them selves to any type of collimating ability. You may be able to print
refraction gratings, but even those would be unacceptable to any higher end
optical systems.
4. For those with existing 3D Print experience:
A heated table is not used or required
Any masking tape with wax on the back, blue, white, grey…. will secure the part
Requires a Higher temp than ABS
3mm material will shatter on a storage roll
3mm material cost is ~ $0.20 a meter or less than a dime for 12”
3D Printing with Acrylic using a taulman Hot-End on a 2BEIGH3 3…
36 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
Now, ) in 3D-Printing
back to the 2BEIGH3…… (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
)
) 19 Steps
2BEIGH3test.stl (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FNJ/XRPO/H2G5ZYS4
Download (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FNJ/XRPO/H2G5ZYS4/FNJXRPOH2G5ZYS4.stl)
View in 3D Print with 3D Hubs!
/FNJXRPOH2G5ZYS4.stl)
Download2BEIGH3test.gcode
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FFU/HF4Z/H1YONJO0
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FFU/HF4Z/H1YONJO0/FFUHF4ZH1YONJO0.gcode)
/FFUHF4ZH1YONJO0.gcode)
023config.ini
Download
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FYJ/KDDP/H1YOIWZT
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FYJ/KDDP/H1YOIWZT/FYJKDDPH1YOIWZT.ini)
/FYJKDDPH1YOIWZT.ini)
023config.ini.taulman (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FIK/AMEC/H2MYLQX6
Download (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FIK/AMEC/H2MYLQX6/FIKAMECH2MYLQX6.taulman)
/FIKAMECH2MYLQX6.taulman)
cost.xls
Download (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FE7/J1TR/H3NL67FE/FE7J1TRH3NL67FE.xls)
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FE7/J1TR/H3NL67FE/FE7J1TRH3NL67FE.xls)
Step 19: Current List of Materials That Can Be Printed on a

2BEIGH3
(/file/FA8KI93H3HCLBZA/)
37 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
Show All Items
These new materials will hopefully drive an increase in new designs by

engineers, inventors, artists, hobbyists and anyone who needs anything that has
been unavailable in the past. Anyone from the professional, to the designer of
home crafts will now have a wealth of materials and capabilities to make their
visions, designs, crafts, inventions or just a fix for the water heater, come to
reality.
And, of course, the infamous PET. The plastic from Billions of discarded
water bottles. Truth be told, the reason these are not recycled is that.....no one
would want to drink from a "used" bottle (according to BW marketing folks).
So....if you're an environmentalist or just desire to be environmentally
responsible, how can you use this technology?
Here are some of the photos of the current materials with notes:
(Please note that Crystal Clear Polycarbonate is incomplete at this time.)
The last image is a photo of where to replace the step signal opto isolator with
two short jumper wires. Simply cut the opto leads and replace with
wires/jumpers as shown. This will by-pass the opto and provide the full signal to
the 7414buffer chip. This should eliminate skipped steps and or sputtering
steppers.
We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive. w I Made it!  Add Images Post Comment
mpeterson111 (/member/mpeterson111) a year ago Reply
I am curious about the taulman 4 orifice hot end. I've had a lot of issues with
bubbling and filaments that vary in size slightly. How does the hot end address
these issues?
X jdl (/member/jdl) a year ago Reply

8
I'm interested in building your 2beigh3 printer. As I was looking into the software
mention, I found that the mach3 seems to not be supported or recommended
anymore as the mach4 is out with usb output. Also the lazycam is no longer
available or supported.
So I have been looking into options. And as a novice it looms very bleak as
construction of the 2beigh3 is close to $1000 and the software can easily run
$1600.
I think I'm missing something! What software should I be looking at that can
38 de 53 draw, convert (is it to gcode?) and then will 'print' and is not be limited in 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
function/time/trial or break the bank? (Separate software is ok not just an all in (/contest/makeitreal/
)
one package)
I'm not having
) inluck
taulman(/member/taulman/ finding(/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
3D-Printing such a product. I hope you have some encouraging
)
words for this newbie.
) 19 Steps

a year ago Reply
batcrave (/member/batcrave) made it!
NOTE (for anyone building their own 2BEIGH3 who - understandably - doesn't
make it through all of my (rather verbose) post): The BOM and images all
specify 3/8" rods for the high res table, but cutting the parts from the DWF files
(and using 1.25" rollers as pictured in the files) results in a roller arrangement
that requires 1/2" rods. Considering how much flex even the thicker rods have,
this is a good thing... but it might save a trip to the hardware store to know in
advance.
Since I finished the low res machine some time ago and have the high res table
very nearly finished, I figured it was about time that I set up an account here,
say thanks, and report a little on my progress (and to beg for some help from
anyone else who made it this far... and makes it to the bottom of the post).
I put a lot of thought & research into picking a design before I started, and the
2BEIGH3 won hands-down - not only for versatility, but because it seemed like
a platform where I could start off knowing absolutely nothing and learn enough
through the process to eventually build it into a reasonably powerful machine,
all on a low enough budget that I could afford to pick the wrong components the
first time around, to break parts I was trying to modify, and generally just to
make as many mistakes as possible before eventually moving on to
buying/building a "real" (or real expensive) machine once I knew what I was
doing & what I actually needed it for... And, out of all the nifty things I've so far
made with this contraption, mistakes are certainly the most prolific. So, while
mine is still a long way from evolving into the hoped for "reasonably powerful
machine", so far it's fulfilling it's purpose admirably well - and considering I still
haven't quite figured out just why I need a CNC rig or 3D printer (aside from the
obvious: "to make parts for my CNC rig/3D printer!") I figure I've still got time for
a few more mistakes before I'm done.
Over the six(ish) months I've been working on it, I've made a lot of tweaks to my
build (some of them minor, some ill-advised, and some probably downright
unsafe), but I think my most notable deviations from the plan were :
1) After seeing reports of headaches with the assorted cheap driver boards, I
splurged on a Gecko G540 right from the start (with the reasoning that it's the
one piece that would almost certainly carry over to the next machine I'd
buy/build, and that it would be cheaper to buy the Gecko than to buy a cheap
Chinese board and then a Gecko). So far I've had absolutely no regrets (aside
from the huge sucking sound coming from the black hole that used to be my
wallet), and no problems with/relating to that end of the operation at all. Very
possibly the only part of the project I can say that about. Right now I'm running
it off 24V from a pair of ATX PSUs running (after severing the chassis ground
on one) in series. The G540 and KL23H256-21-8B steppers (from
circuitspecialists.com) could handle the 48V of another pair of PSUs on the
stack, but seeing as the machine's structural limitations are already keeping me
from maxing out the current speeds, I haven't seen the need for more power
yet.
2) I replaced the 1/4-20 threaded rods on the X & Y axis with 5/16-18, because
with any bend at all or any radial/angular misalignment with the motor (more on
my coupling woes later) the thinner rods would whip around enough to cause
further bending (and a whole hell of a lot of noise). This wasn't the panacea I'd
hoped for, but it did show some improvement (and it was far easier to find
straight 5/16" rod than 1/4" in the hardware store). To reduce the whipping a bit
more I screwed some crude supports (basically just blocks of wood with
leadscrew-sized holes in them) onto the top (for the Y screw) & bottom (for the
X screw) of the X plate, to restrain the movement of the free ends of the screws.
Again, it still didn't solve the problem (and didn't do anything to stop the bucking
39 de 53 when the nut would get close to the misaligned stepper) but it helped preserve 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
the leadscrews and cut down on the vibration & noise.
3) For a spindle I'm currently using a $25 Harbor Freight trim router (#61626) (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNCcontrol
and $20 speed Machine
(#43060).and 3DoutPrinter
I started using a cordless
by Dremel, but,
while it
taulman(/member/taulman/performed better than
) in 3D-Printing I expected, it wasn't a viable long-term solution,
(/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/ )
and I wanted the ability to use 1/4" shank bits. Unfortunately it turns out the HF
router h
Download only(/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
supports 1/4" bits - no one makes alternate ) 19 Steps
collets for it, and all of
the the 1/8" "adapters" I've found (essentially bushings with slits) introduce
advertisement
enough runout that I can only get away with the very shortest bits. That said, for
1/4" bits it's not bad at all - especially at that price point - and the runout is
negligible relative to the tolerances of the rest of the machine. The nice
cylindrical shape also means that it's much easier to design & cut mounts for
than something like a Dremel or Rotozip, and having a securely mounted
spindle (whatever tool you're using) makes a big difference.
4) Added a PS3 controller for jogging & job control (with http://joakim.dk/joypad/
) (http://joakim.dk/joypad/ )- I can't imagine working without it anymore. The
software isn't designed with the DS3 in mind, so it requires some awkward
remapping and it's not a choice I'd recommend if you're going to buy a
controller, but if you've got one kicking around it makes life much easier than
being tied to the keyboard.
5) I've rebuilt and/or redesigned the Z axis at least four times - soon to be five,
once I finish the new XY table. (Tip: Poplar is really cheap at Lowes/Home
Depot. Don't use it. It flexes all over the place, and was giving me some nasty
deflection along the Y axis). I added additional bracing to the Z axis support
pipe (the triangular beams visible in the picture - I believe I ended up using 1/8"
thick 3/4" aluminum L-channel) to try to reduce some of the tool deflection I was
seeing along the X axis. While there is some wiggle at the end of the pipe, I've
come to suspect that most of the problem is the result of play in the Z axis
drawer slides (Tip: Avoid full-extension slides - the 3-piece construction seems
to make the ends much less stable than the 2-piece 3/4 extension versions,
even when only extended a couple inches).
6) Shaft couplings. The bane of my existence. These have been giving me
headaches pretty much since day one. I started out with the rigid couplings
specified in the BOM (McMaster 6412K11), but unless I managed to get the
motor shaft & leadscrew aligned perfectly they'd cause the end of the rod to
whip around, and the motor to try shaking the whole contraption off the
workbench. Eventually this would be followed by the setscrews working loose
and the shaft decoupling. This was compounded by the fact that tightening a
setscrew onto a threaded surface seemed to inevitably skew the alignment, so
any time I had to change screws/motors or remove/replace/adjust the table I'd
find myself spending the next hour or two battling to get things running smoothly
again. I tried threadlocker, grinding flats on the screws, and drilling holes for the
setscrews to mate into, but a large part of the problem seemed to be that to
avoid wobble the shaft has to be precisely the same diameter as the bore of the
coupling, or else tightening the setscrew will force it off-center - and the nominal
1/4" threaded rod (measured at .225" actual) was never going to be a close
enough fit with the 1/4" coupling (.246"). I've since tried to work around the
problem with various flexible couplings. The helical variety work well for angular
& axial misalignment (not parallel/radial), but introduce a lot of backlash, and
even using Mach3's backlash compensation I still see some distortion from it.
Lovejoy couplings - two metal hubs with a rubber "spider" in between (allowing
you to mix & match hubs to mate different shaft sizes) allow for a fair bit of
angular & just a little parallel misalignment, but have nothing holding the two
ends together. A number of the other coupling designs (like Oldham or Schmidt)
share this property - obviously they're intended for systems where the
leadscrew is axially fixed and can't slide in & out, but I have yet to work out an
easy way of converting the 2BEIGH3 to function like that. The flexible disc
design looks promising, since it seems to avoid all of these issues, but the cost
has kept me away. So far the best solution (read: "ugly hack") I've found is to
sink a ring of four(ish) screws or posts into each hub of a Lovejoy coupling and
then zigzag several small (~3/4") rubber bands back and forth between them. It
keeps the ends from pulling out (unless there's a lot of drag on your table - it
can also act as a safety valve if you crash into something solid, rather than
destroying your motor mount/leadscrew/nut) and retains flexibility, without
introducing any measurable backlash... but god is it ever ugly (see attached
40 de 53 closeup). The wider diameter of the couplings (made even wider by the screws) 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
also meant that I had to carve sections out of the stepper mounting brackets
and depressions in the underlying wood. If anyone else has come up with a (/contest/makeitreal/
)
great alternative, I'd love to hearand
it. 3D Printer by
) in 3D-Printing
)
7) I made a spoilboard to bolt onto the top of the Y plate out of 12x12x1" oak
with a 1" grid of 1/4-20 threaded holes, which allowed me to use bolts with nuts
Download h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/ ) 19 Steps
and/or washers in place of clamps (which, with the narrow space above the X
advertisement
plate getting even more crowded by shims that I needed for the Y plate, often I Made it!
weren't practical) for securely holding small/medium workpieces down.
Unfortunately another other long-standing problem I've had has been a skewed
X/Y alignment. Despite much effort, it was always difficult to get the axes
square to each other - something that, like the couplings, comes back to bite
me any time I remove/rebuild/adjust the table. I thought I'd gotten this corrected
before drilling, but the misalignment still came through in the grid, so, while it
was a great help for holding pieces down, I wasn't able to use it for alignment.
The 2BEIGH3 Update (https://www.instructables.com/id/2BEIGH3-3D-Printer-
Update-and-call-for-Testers/) says there's a "shear" command to compensate
for this (in Mach3? in CAM? in CAD/modeling software?), but I haven't been
able to find it mentioned anywhere else. I was hoping to finally sidestep this
issue altogether by moving on to the high res table - indeed, the fact that the
upgraded table design promised to inherently resolve the issue was one of the
main reasons I went ahead with it, rather than risk repeating the issue while
trying to build something custom with fancy linear bearings & pillow blocks.
That brings me to my current quandaries... Aside from the mis-sized rods
mentioned up top, most of the high res table has gone together smoothly.
Cutting the acrylic took some experimentation - I was surprised to find that a
relatively high spindle speed/low feed worked best (maybe 10-15k rpm, or
about half-power on the setup described above, and 10-20ipm - just adjust the
rpm down to the make sure the plastic isn't liquifying), but the results are awfully
nice looking - I wish I could've made cuts like this when I was working on my
last batch of PC case mods. I did run into a couple problems, however...
A) I'm a little confused by the nuts. I had used the diagrammed Delrin nuts (as
pictured in Step 11) on the low res table without issue (well, aside from having
to blow a big wad of cash o̶n̶ ̶a̶ ̶f̶a̶n̶c̶y̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶t̶o̶y̶ on a drill press, because I had to
struggle to drill a hole - never mind a straight hole - in the stuff... but without
major issue - they also worked well when tapped for the 5/16-18 rod). This
instructable and the update both read like the same ones are meant to be used
for the high res table... but they don't seem to fit. I could use the thinner Y axis
nut under the X axis, but without significantly raising the 1/2" guide rods the nut
would have the leadscrew running into the side of the right leg of the pipe
frame. The Y axis has the opposite problem - even with the Y plate sitting flush
on top of the struts, using either one of the Delrin nuts aligns the leadscrew
significantly above the level of the motor shaft (and lifting the whole axis, like on
X, isn't an option). The 2BEIGH3 Update (https://www.instructables.com
/id/2BEIGH3-3D-Printer-Update-and-call-for-Testers/) says "There is a new dwg
in the hi res section for this part", but all I could find were the two JPGs (the
same than I used successfully for the low res table). The maintable* 3DM files
from http://www.taulman3d.com/2beigh3.html (http://www.taulman3d.com
/2beigh3.html)
were helpful in understanding how a lot of pieces were meant to fit
together, but they're still based around the cut plastic & T-nut
version. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or do the pictured nuts simply not
fit & I need to make my own? (I probably will make my own, at least to get up
and running again, but I'm interested in knowing what the intended design was,
and/or what viable alternatives other people have come up with)
.
B) Step 10 says " We will brace the X Axis as it's hard to believe how much a
3/8 " rod will bend in just 28" ". This would definitely be helpful (while the 1/2"
rod bends less than the 3/8", it still
seems to have at least as much flex as the aluminum U-channel from the
low res table), but I couldn't find anything else in the text, images, or comments
discussing it. My only thought is to drill holes for vertical posts in the center -
although the fact that my machine is currently supported on a pair of 2x4s laid
across sawhorses would mean building some sort of fixed understructure to
attach to and, while it would help with Z (vertical) flex, I'm not sure how much it
41 de 53 would do for Y (horizontal) flex. Has anyone else come up with a useful method
3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
of bracing/reinforcing the rods? (/contest/makeitreal/
)
) in 3D-Printing
)
) 19 Steps
(https://cdn.instructables.com/FE0/QG4N/IKJ842NM
/FE0QG4NIKJ842NM.LARGE.jpg) (https://cdn.instructables.com
/FNN/8UK6/IKK0A2AF/FNN8UK6IKK0A2AF.LARGE.jpg)
X dintid (/member/dintid) 2 years ago Reply

|
8 Been reading and rereading this tutorial and it looks doable although I feel it
skips some explanations/steps here and there. At least for my total novice level.
The above aside, this machine seems to Work by moving the "table" around
while a lot of other CNC/3printers I've looked at Works by moving the cnc part
above the board around.
Is there any reasons for going either way, or is it just coincidal how this
particular machine ended?
Anyone made this in the EU with metric Measurements, or maybe even found
Places to easily buy the items needed?
MattQ (/member/MattQ) . dintid (/member/dintid) 2 years ago Reply
Hey dintid, the instructable builds on

https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-drawer-...
(https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-drawer-slide-CNC-machine-
for-under-200/)
Helped me a lot, and I started out with very little knowledge, and no tools
other than a mate's drill press(and the mate). Take it slow and buy the
tools and components over time.
About the metric conversion, i spent a few hours at a big hardware store
and found metric equivalents for everything. However, for the low-res
table I chose 1/4" threaded-rod for a bit more accuracy than 8mm, and a
(tiny) bit more strength than 6mm. 6.35mm couplings are easy to get.
Having said that, it's easier to find STRAIGHT 8mm threaded-rods than
1/4" ones. Oh well.
| Machine (/member/Machine) 2 years ago Reply
Wow! Very nice, very professional. And, what is that CAD software you use to
create the drawings, please?
DarianZ (/member/DarianZ) 3 years ago Reply
First off, i can't make to make and hack this. one question though, did you
seriously manage to build this for about $1000?! that is incredible. Also, is it
truly capable of running the cnc router with an aluminum block?
Cheers to an incredible build!
42 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
MattQ (/member/MattQ) . DarianZ (/member/DarianZ) by 2 years ago Reply
) in 3D-Printing
)
I'm partway through and my cost so far including some tools is au$600.
Estimate another au$200 by the time I've made the accurate cnc table,
) 19 Steps
print table and print head. At current exchange rates that's about US$650
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all up.  Collection I Made it!  Favorite  Share 
GeoK (/member/GeoK) 3 years ago Reply
I can't believe this! I'm designing my own 3d printer/cnc mill and came up with
the idea to use iron pipe as a low cost rigid framing material while installing a
natural gas heater at my buddies dads house. I was 1" off and was surprised
how non pliable even 6 foot runs are, I had to move the heater! lol I googled
iron pipe frame 3d printer and find my idea was already in use as a framing
material. So cool! I'm building one with 24" x 24" x 24" travel and also want to
use a 400 watt liquid cooled spindle motor for some CNC mill/cutting/engraving
action. Eventually I want to experiment with printing in carbon fiber by
impregnating carbon fiber snippets 3 to 8mm long into both the hardener and
resin then pumping them through a standard style mixing tube/extruder but
designed in 2 halves made of highly polished stainless steel for easy cleanup. A
laser cutting attachment would be nice as well but that is way down the road.
Anyway, Great video, glad to see someone else had my pipe idea. Take care
and keep experimenting. That's how progress is made...
MattQ (/member/MattQ) . GeoK (/member/GeoK) 2 years ago Reply
any luck?
twdodson67 (/member/twdodson67) 2 years ago Reply
Can you use USB to lpt1 converter?
MattQ (/member/MattQ) . twdodson67 (/member/twdodson67) 2 years ago Reply
nope.
MattQ (/member/MattQ) 2 years ago Reply
Canberra, Australia. Just starting out.

As I go I'll list the _metric_ BOM's
MOTORS: ebay - au$219 delivered: 4-axis ctlr/4nema23(283oz/in) steppers,

PS & parallel cable. Worried that these will be too powerful, but we shall see.
The only local who can supply the frame components is "metalmart" who will
cut and thread but need a week's notice.
QTY; Desc; Thread
2;600mm pipe; m-m
3;300mm pipe; m-m
5;150mm pipe m-m
3;Elbow; f-f
1;Tee; f-f-f
3;Union; f-f - Unavailable - got 'sockets' which seem functionally equivalent.
2;End caps; f
1;Flange; f - could not get 4-bolt version, had to settle with 2-bolt.
frame: au$118:
metalmart minimum dia threaded rods are 10mm. Still looking but might just
couple to the 6.35mm stepper shafts. Anyone think that's a bad idea?
43 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
)
solargroovy (/member/solargroovy) by 3 years ago Reply
) inmy
Problem with 3D-Printing
z-axis. (/tag/type-id/category-technology/channel-3D-Printing/
)
I haveh
Download the(/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
nema 23 7.6kg.cm 6 wire from circuit specialists.
) 57BYG081
19 Steps
I'm using the Univelop tb6560  Collection I Made it!  Favorite  Share
advertisement 
My wiring is A:R A-:G B:Y B-:B
About 15.5 volts and 12 Ohm across the pairs.
This is working well for x and y axis
I think that I burnt out the z motor because I'm getting R between pairs. I
swapped out my 4 motor (for the extruder) but I'm not getting movement. I
swapped for the spare driver board, but when I try to jog the z motor, I get a
clacking noise and no movement.
I took the load off of my z-axis to make sure that it wasn't a power issue.
Is there a good way to isolate the problems. I think that my controller is okay. I
swapped cables for y/z and the z-job moved the 'y' axis. When I connected the
z driver/motor to the y controller cable I still got the clacking noise.
solargroovy (/member/solargroovy) 3 years ago Reply
On the basic CNC table, I'm noticing a bit of flex in the y-axis. The lack of a rigid
bracket and the wood extension from the y-plate seem to be limiting factors. I
have backed off the velocity and acceleration of the y-motor to keep the
movement smoother, but mounting the motors has been the most frustrating.
I notice that you mounted the X-axis directly to the pipe rather than to the
aluminum brackets as the smaller source project did. Trying to bolt a plate
tangent to the pipe and level was also a challenge.
Lining up the threaded rod with the motor shaft and the guide nuts fastened to
the platform left me wishing that I had a way to make micro adjustments. I used
some set screws to position the z-axis nut because I don't have tools precise
enough to create that cut-out on the z-nut (At least until I get the CNC tuned).
This has been a great project, so thank you much for sharing it.
eclipser221 (/member/eclipser221) 3 years ago Reply
@taulman,
I am in the preliminary stages of planning my 2BEIGH3. I was curious if there is

any more information on the new and improved Threaded Rod Nuts. In your
update it says you have uploaded a dwg of them. I can not seem to find them.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Ryan
R_B (/member/R_B) 3 years ago Reply
Thanks, thanks, THANKS !!!
I am wondering if I want to;

a) Go with the low precision table, then the higher precision, then the 3D printer
in the standard size all on 1 inch pipe.
b) As above, but larger, perhaps MUCH larger on 1 1/4, 1 1/2 or even 2 inch
pipe.
Are there any rules of thumb for this ? I suppose torsional stiffness "matters"
somewhere along the line, but I'm thinking that MASS might also help a LOT.
c) Do the low precision, then the higher) precision tables, then do the 3D printer
44 de 53 as a SEPARATE set of hardware, i.e. have both available at all times with no 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
need to switch. (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Part of my reasoning is that prints can take a long time, even a VERY LONG
) in 3D-Printing
)
TIME and as an impatient fellow... I just might wanna MAKE something on a 2D
table.
) 19 Steps
I know, more hardware takes more space and more money. This is probably
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something I should decide before I start, there are probably places to optimize
for 2D CNC if I am not going forward with 3D printing on the same platform.
d) Fancy hardware; Are linear bearings THAT expensive ?
Are they worth it ?
================================
Thanks (yet) again.
R_B (/member/R_B) . R_B (/member/R_B) 3 years ago Reply
I found linear bearings on amazon for $18 per 12 pack, which doesn't
seem unreasonable (in the total scheme of things).
LM8UU - they seem to be packaged and marketed specifically for home

built 3D printer projects.
http://www.amazon.com/Linear-Bearings-Printer-Mendel-reprap
/dp/B00ED150S4
mohamad sadegh (/member/mohamad sadegh) 3 years ago Reply
It's great!
cheshirecorn (/member/cheshirecorn) 3 years ago Reply
Its superb
ifarkas (/member/ifarkas) 4 years ago Reply
Very creative. I'll build your system as soon as I have your design in Autodesk
Inventor 2014 as a parametric model. Do you happen to have that? :-)
regaltaxlaw (/member/regaltaxlaw) 4 years ago Reply
If anyone is having problems downloading the DXF files just right click on them,
click save as and then add a ".dxf" at the end then press save.
myinisjap (/member/myinisjap) 4 years ago Reply
If anyone is having problems downloading the DXF files just right click on them,
click save as and then add a ".dxf" at the end then press save.
thasatelliteguy (/member/thasatelliteguy) 4 years ago Reply
Ok, I have a question.... If the point of changing the XY table and drive methods
is to exchange speed for torque, then aren't we making life way harder than it
has to be? In my design, I can see a way to actually run both drive methods on
the same table at the same time... well sorta. I could add a belt drive to both X
and Y axis, which would be permanently connected. Then, give myself a way to
disconnect the drive screw from the table and the X-carriage. It would then be
run from the belt drives at high speed and low torque. The screw drives could
45 de 53 be re-attached to run high-torque/low speed. The belt drives would not have to 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
be disconnected at all. They would only have to have the power removed so the
steppers can freewheel. The screwdrives would have no problem dragging the (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC
belt drives in tow,Machine andany
and I can't foresee 3Dreason
Printer
why it would
by hurt them as long
as power was
taulman(/member/taulman/ removed.
) in 3D-Printing
)
Can your )
table be modified in this way? If it could, then,19 Steps you run dual
assuming
parallel controllers, you could simplify the transition to inserting 2-4 bolts and
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the flip of a switch.
thasatelliteguy (/member/thasatelliteguy) 4 years ago Reply
I too started with the same simple frame in mind with the intention of simply
'upscaling' it. However, mine morphed into something completely new and
different. I also have the intention of switching back and forth between 3D
printer and mill/router. I would also like to add the ability to do PCBs and laser. I
didn't plan for mine to switch motion/axis to optimize motion for the different
modes though.... bravo. I figured when mine didn't move on the X and Y fast
enough, I would make some linear trucks for each, and switch to belt drive. I
built it with that future upgrade in mind, and should be able to do it easily. Right
now, I have a fried X stepper, and I'm awaiting the replacement.....
(http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/thasatelliteguy/library
/CNC%20Build%20as%20of%2011_3_2013)
thasatelliteguy (/member/thasatelliteguy) . thasatelliteguy (/member

/thasatelliteguy) 4 years ago Reply
http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/thasatelliteguy/library
/CNC%20Build%20as%20of%2011_3_2013?sort=3&page=1
(http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/thasatelliteguy/library
/CNC%20Build%20as%20of%2011_3_2013?sort=3&page=1)
Muffyy (/member/Muffyy) 4 years ago Reply
I dont understand why this hasnt been done.

Once you have you device with XYZ movement and a well thought out tool
space, you can interchange any tool from router to engraver to extruder.
If your frame is rigid enough to handle router cutting a extruder will be nothing
X Creidhne (/member/Creidhne) 4 years ago Reply

8
Very nice instructable!
Do you have any 3d cad models of the whole assembly? It would be nice to
bring up a .step file to better understand how it all fits together.
JKJ1961 (/member/JKJ1961) 4 years ago Reply
Looks kike an idea whose time has come:

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/327919589/the-microfactory-a-machine-
shop-in-a-box
My Diet Area (/member/My Diet Area) 4 years ago Reply
I have been following your Instructible for about 3 months and have constructed
a low res cnc to cut parts for the high res table.
X taulman (/member/taulman) (author) . My Diet Area (/member/My Diet Area)

|
46 de 53
8 4 years ago Reply
3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
Congratulations, M D A..! You'll be pleased to know
you're in good company. There are about 80+ (that I know of) makers (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC
around Machine
the world and
building or 3D Printer
using/hacking the design.
by I will mention, that
once
taulman(/member/taulman/I had the lower
) in 3D-Printing res unit working that I ended up actually cutting
) more
parts on it, than I did when the higher res unit was up. Again,
h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
Download congratulations )
as I, and a lot of others here know,19it Steps
takes interest and
study to make these units work!
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taulman
rtshultz (/member/rtshultz) 4 years ago Reply
It has been a while since I posted so I will give another update. Hopefully this
info will help with anyone who is having difficulties like I am. Here is what I have
found in the past few weeks.
Missed steps: I scoped the outputs of the parallel port and the input to the
stepper board. There was no missed steps at all. In my parallel interface board,
there is a HC244 level converter connected to the lines of the parallel port. This
does the 3.3V to 5V conversion so the rest of the downstream electronics are
getting full 5V. Since this was not the problem I had to do some more hunting
and found the decay mode drastically affected my stepper motors when running
at higher RPM. I was running at 50% decay but I changed it to 100% decay and
my "missed steps" problem went away. I hope this proves useful to anyone
facing a similar aggravating situation.
Drive rods: I have been having frustrating problems with my threaded rod
coming loose from the motor couplers or the couplers coming loose from the
motor shaft. It is extremely annoying. Everytime I try to cut the thicker plastics,
the rod decouples and I ruin my part. I tighten the set screws as tight as
possible. I have already rounded out the hex keys on two or 3 of the set screw
because I am tightening them so much and so tight. The lateral forces just
seem to be way to high and are pulling things apart. I actually ordered some of
the special CNC shaft couplers that are helically slit to help with misalignment
issues. They help to smooth out the motion but the helix acts like a spring and
creates a big dead zone when you reverse direction just like backlash but
worse. They clamped around the shaft instead of set screws so they held much
better but I had to remove them because of the dead zone. I am not sure what I
am going to do about this. Until I can get this solved, I am dead in the water!
Slides: These have been a major thorn in my side. I know the slides were not
going to be very precise but the ones I have are ridiculous. I already mentioned
on my first post about the use of a tension spring on the Z axis slide. Well I had
to do the same on one of the X axis slides. I noticed when I reversed direction
in the X axis, they would shift in the Y axis as well!!! The farther they were
extended, the greater the shift. At near full extension the Y shift just by looking
at it was 0.050" or more!!! This was showing up on all of my test prints when
there was an X axis direction change. I "solved" this problem just like the other.
I put a tension spring from the end of the slid and attached it to the opposite
slides aluminum U channel via a nylon zip tie. This created a nylon loop that
would "slide" up and down the channel as the X axis moved and provided a
constant force in the Y axis and greatly reduced if not eliminated the problem.
Plastics: When I was purchasing my raw materials, I was having a hard time
finding the 0.220 acrylic so I went with 6mm polycarbonate from Amazon. Since
it is a harder plastic, it is also harder to mill. I have checked out online for some
tips on cutting this stuff and everything I read indicates you need low rpm and
high feed speed. Wellllll, this setup is just not rigid enough to handle those kind
of forces and my motors top out at around 22 in/min which is waaaaay below
the recommended feed speeds of anywhere from 50 - 90 in/min from what I
have read. The bit also seems to catch alot and pull into the plastic or pull the
plastic up. I have these same problems with acrylic too. I have tried milling
thinner acrylic and polycarbonate and these really cause a lot of problems
because they ride up the helix of the bit and cause the thin plastic to vibrate a
lot in the Z axis and just make a mess with the edge. I am experimenting with
trying to do a 2 pass cut of the 6mm polycarb. If my threaded rod will keep from
coming apart this might be a viable solution. Higher feed speeds seem to cause
47 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
a lot more slop in the X and Y axis so I have been trying to keep everything
running at 150mm/min or less. (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Dremel: I have
taulman(/member/taulman/ been dissatisfied
) in 3D-Printing with my generic dremel. I don't know if the
)
name brand will be better but I am unwilling and unable to spend the cash to
Download hI(/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
find out. ) 19 Steps
am convinced that a generic "rotozip" or compact router is a way
better option to get more torque at lower rpms. Mine has stalled out too many
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times when I turn down the rpms to keep from melting the edges of the plastic.
Plus you get a 1/4" bit capacity and likely a much better collet system to hold
the bit. Anything has to be better than the one I have. It is a Genesis rotary tool
from Amazon. Works fine as a dremel but the supplied collets don't hold worth a
darn when you have high pull-out forces.
Well that is enough for now. I hope this helps anyone else that may be running
into brick walls like I am. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. One of
these days or months I will get this thing working!
X taulman (/member/taulman) (author) . rtshultz (/member/rtshultz) Reply

|
8 4 years ago
Hi, rt, First, excellent detective work on the driver board and
drivers. That is the single point of issues with all of the electronics I've
seen.
Next, on the coupler, while I didn't have any issues, I talked to one user
that bulit a larger unit and he user a zero backlash from MMCarr
Coupling Hub 1/4" Bore, 3/4" Outside
PN 9845T102 using a red Durometer spider
Next is the speed of the dremel....Seems I lucked out finding the right
speed to cut acrylic with mine, but it eventually died from over use: )
I bought a cutout saw (dremel like) from Harbor Frieght But it didn't have
speed control like the dremel. Runs way to fast.
I found that there's a certain speed for each type acrylic, so I bought a
autotransformer that allows me to change voltage/speed $50.00
http://www.mpja.com/500VA-0-130VAC-Variable-Autotransformer
/productinfo/15162%20TR/
Works great. But it does take time to dial in the speed. Both RPM and cut
speed.
I found that the 1/8 bit got hot so the plastic melted to easy. I got a blower
nozzle for my air comp and put it on to cool off the cutting bit. That really
helps.
mail me on my website and I'll see if I can find any other tips.
taulman
Update 2:
Tried the different motors. They give about 3x linear feed as expected. After
trying to cut some test parts, I think I am going to reverse my thoughts on
missed steps. The output with the new motors is all over the map. I think the
missed steps weren't as obvious with the slower rpm motors but the higher
frequency signals for these new motors is making the missed steps much more
obvious. Parallel port card here I come!
Hello again!
Here is an update to my previous post. I checked my parallel port and it is
putting out 3.3V signals but I also scoped the steps and everything looks good. I
scoped the step signal coming out of the parallel port and the clock input pin to
the stepper controller and they have been identical on every scope capture. So
I would have to say that I am not dropping steps. I was able to get my hands on
some different stepper motors and I hooked them up to the signal generator
48 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
feeding the stepper motor controller and they top out at 25kHz. I think I am
going to try them to give a little more linear feed speed. (/contest/makeitreal/
)
) in 3D-Printing
)

) 19 Steps
Hello,
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I have been following your Instructible for about 3 months and have constructed
a low res cnc to cut parts for the high res table. I had some questions at the
bottom but I also wanted to share some of what I have learned. I have even
contemplated making a parallel Instructable on using LCNC for this project. But
that is for when I am farther along. Here is what I have:
To save some money, I went the LinuxCNC route since it was free to try.
Getting the motors to run with LCNC was not difficult. Since there is not a
standard CAM module to convert DXF to gcode I had to try third party software.
Try as I may, I could not get any software to reliably read in the DXF files from
this instructable. I don’t know why. Sooo, I went the long route and re-drew the
parts for the precision table in Sketchup and exported the DXF from there. I
have made some minor tweeks to the geometry of the parts but nothing drastic.
Then I used a free CAM program (HeeksCNC) to create the gcode. Works
pretty well. I do have to tweek the resulting gcode a little since LCNC gives
some error messages during the import. The messages are actually useful and
point you where you need to make some modifications. LCNC has an excellent
gcode reference in their manual.
Another difference is the CNC controller I am using. I got mine from

http://www.sainsmart.com/new-4-axis-tb6560-cnc-stepper-motor-driver-
controller-board-kit-57-two-phase-3a.html
This is good for 1/16 microstepping which is what I have it set to. I haven’t
noticed any odd behavior with this controller. I am going to verify my parallel
port is giving 5VDC and scope the output to double check for missed steps but
after cutting many test parts, I am pretty certain that it is behaving well.
I can control the motors well from the PC but they have a limited feed rate
before they start “misbehaving”. I used a separate signal generator to feed TTL
square waves to the controllers to find the top frequency I can supply the
motors. My motors top out at about 8Khz with the above microstepping and
24VDC supply. That equates to about 2.5 rev/s or 1/8 in/s. Not very fast.
Since your video is time lapsed, approximately how fast is your linear feed
rate?? After some research, I found a nice site (http://www.daycounter.com
/Calculators/Stepper-Motor-Calculator.phtml) that had good calculations to
determine the max rpm for a stepper motor based on inductance and supply
voltage. It looks like I picked high inductance low amp motors (57BYGH207
motor from www.circuitspecialist.com) that limit my rpm . I saved a few bucks
per motor but I am paying for it in speed. I thought I would pass that along in
case anyone else had the same problem. Which motors did you get
specifically??? Item 57BYGH104??
I am using a similar type end mill it is just half the length and consequently half
the price. It is from amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product
/B003BIEUZY/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). All the specs
appear to be the same other than the length.
My main reason for writing (other than... Great instructable!!) is I am having

problems getting good output on cutting the parts (at least I think so). I have
test cut many of the Ystrut pieces on various materials to get a feel for the
output before making the final pieces. I have milled the profile in wood to a
shallow depth and it looks nice and smooth but when I get to milling the plastic,
the edge finish is rather coarse. I am experimenting using thin acrylic and the
cutter seems to catch and grab the piece causing it to vibrate in the Z axis. The
milling direction is such that the finish edge is conventional milling and not climb
milling. I have experimented with different rpm on the cutter but I can only go
so low before my generic dremel will stall out. I noticed that you show two
different cutting tools attached to your Z axis. The first looks like a dremel type
rotary tool and the other looks more like a roto-zip or small router which is
shown in your video. Did you need to graduate up to a more powerful cutter??
I am feeding about as fast as my motors will go (110mm/min). I just get bad
49 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
vibration. Even going to thicker material the bit will tend to grab but the thicker
material doesn’t vibrate as much in the Z axis. I have even had the bit grab so (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination
much thatCNC Machine
it pulled andduring
it out of the collet 3D the
Printer
milling. Iby
replaced the factory
collet with an
taulman(/member/taulman/) inacual dremel
3D-Printing collet and that seemed to do the trick. The surface
)
finish is still pretty coarse. I did find that the center drawer slide that I have on
my Z axis ) my
has a lot of play in the Y axis. It can cause 19cutter
Stepsto “sway” in the
Y axis by 1/8” or more! Maybe I have a less than ideal slide. This was causing
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a LOT of coarseness in the Y axis cuts. As the table would move in the Y
direction, the flex of the slide would act like a spring and cause jerky motion. I
have been able to compensate for this by putting a tension spring on the end of
the slide and connect it back to the Z axis pipe to provide a constant back
pressure on the slide. I just wanted to get your feedback to see if you had any
tricks you learned and didn’t document in the Instructable. About what would
you call reasonable tolerance on the output for the low res table?? 0.012”-
0.015”?? Thanks for the help!
Greasy Joe Bick (/member/Greasy Joe Bick) 4 years ago Reply
Looks like I will also have to remove my Step Signal Opto chip. I scaled up the
skull and crossbones test file, included in Mach3, to .5 on first test cut. Things
looked ok until I tried a larger 2.5 scale up of the same file. Looks like Y is
missing steps, BADLY. The eyes of the skull and cross bones aren't straight. I
may also bump up my voltage to 24v after I've removed and jumper the chip
location.
Greasy Joe Bick (/member/Greasy Joe Bick) . Greasy Joe Bick (/member/Greasy
Joe Bick) 4 years ago Reply
It seems the Univelop tb6560 has changed their opto chips. I was going to
remove it until I noticed they are no longer a 4 pin chip. It is now an
Identical chip to the one next to it. Both are 6N137. I will do more
searching.
Also, I think I am doing something wrong converting dxf to g-code for the
parts in the precision table. I tried to test a few cuts on wood after
converting with lazycam but the bit seems to be constantly following the
red travel lines between cuts and not following the blue lines to cut the
part itself.
I will search more and post back later.
(https://cdn.instructables.com/FB1/XTHP/HI3PFTHP
/FB1XTHPHI3PFTHP.LARGE.jpg)
I'm am going to post my embarrassing folly publicly, in case others can't seem
to get there motors moving both directions.
The first day that I got my machine wired up, Z axis, was the only one that
wouldn't respond when pressing the page up key, in fact, when pressing page
down, the motor would make z axis go up. X and Y worked, but it seemed
rather sporadically.
Following day, Z was still the same but now, x and y went in the same direction
no matter which direction I pressed for the arrow keys. I searched some
tutorials and even messaged taulman to let him know I had it Somewhat
50 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
working.
)
Combination CNC
Today, I do want Machine
taulman suggestedandwithin
3D hisPrinter
messageby and nothing different
happened.
taulman(/member/taulman/While looking at
) in 3D-Printing a ribbon cable I noticed that I forgot to run a 9v
) lead
to the interface board (board with parallel port). DERP. Made a lead and
connected )
the 7v port, to the 9v bussbar, now everthing 19is Steps
moving as it should!!!

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Lost, 3, late afternoons of progress because I forgot to double check my wiring
job on my boards. Check and double check your work.
Kinkywinky (/member/Kinkywinky) 4 years ago Reply
I was wondering how flat the printer bed has to be. I have made my own 3d
printer now and the bed is 0.2-0.4 degrees higher towards the left side and
0.3-0.5 degrees higher towards the front. Will this make a noticeable difference
in my print product? Luckily I can correct this with some sanding but was
wondering if it was worth the trouble. Any suggestions?
braunsquared (/member/braunsquared) 4 years ago Reply
Hey taulman,
I used your picture as a reference and successfully removed (bypassed) one of
the optocouplers but I'm having the same results. I max out at approximately
80rpm before the stepper just stalls and makes a horrible racket. I know your
videos are all time-lapse, do you have any that aren't? As it stands right now, I
could get the steppers working but movement would be at a snails pace.
Any ideas on where I could look or maybe additional forums I could query would
be most appreciated.
Best,
Tim
X taulman (/member/taulman) (author) . braunsquared (/member/braunsquared)

|
8 4 years ago Reply
what stepper motors and what is the power supply
voltage?
If it's 12 volts, you may want to bump it up to 24 volts.
X taulman (/member/taulman) (author) . braunsquared (/member/braunsquared)

|
8 4 years ago Reply
This all depends on a few items. What is your main
power supply voltage? Is this the printer or CNC..? HAve you verified you
can change steps?1/2, 1/4, 1/8
tcase6 (/member/tcase6) 4 years ago Reply
Thanks for the instructable,,, you have ideas running through my head so bad
right now its pitiful..... 3d plastic printer, saw the 3d metal printers on youtube... I
want both... metal be similar but different... will have to see... I know from
plastics and to metal, different heat temperatures for melting and such...may be
hard for the cooling should hopefully be extremely fast to work as a printer....
so, that would be my biggest dilemma of figuring things out... unfortunately, it
would have to cool pretty much as soon as it comes out of the nozzle... thanks
again for the instructable....
X taulman (/member/taulman) (author) . tcase6 (/member/tcase6) Reply

|
8 4 years ago
tcase6, first, thanks for your comments! they mean a lot to all of
us that place designs here.
51 de 53 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
As to the metals, yes , I found that I could melt them (Tin and Bizmuth) but
couldn't control the cooling as well as I wanted. I'm sure it's doable, it just (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC
requires Machine
a knowledge andthermodynamics.
of metal 3D PrinterIf you by do go the way of
metals,
taulman(/member/taulman/ you might try
) in 3D-Printing a system that extrudes an "almost melted" metal.
)
Has a narrow temp range, but might just work.
h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/
Download Bizmuth is hard to control, but melts easy. Tin) is probably
19 Stepsthe way to go.
taulman
I have built and painted my frame. Scaling the 2by3 up to 48x48x24. Controller
boards and steppers arrived a couple of days ago. Off to by my rods, channels,
and slides.
Thank you so much for putting this instructable out there for us. I have always
wanted to build my own cnc and I never thought I would. Thanks taulman for all
your hard work and documentation. I wounldn't be doing this if it wasn't for your
great instructable
X taulman (/member/taulman) (author) . Greasy Joe Bick (/member/Greasy Joe Bick)

|
8 4 years ago Reply
First, thank you for your kind words!
Wow.....that's a large machine, Joe!... You'll be able to make furniture ,
musical instruments and a small block engine..!
Good luck in your build, Joe and thanks again for your comments.
taulman
dpucio (/member/dpucio) 4 years ago Reply
thanks for all the electronics info, scaling this up to a 30s30x30 square aluminim
frame with linear bearings.
jgluch (/member/jgluch) 4 years ago Reply
For anyone that reads through the comments and has similar problems due to
3.3v on the parallel port...If you don't want to remove the optoisolators there is
something that I have found that works pretty well. From what I have looked at,
it is hard to find out if a PCI parallel card will output the 5v necessary. I recently
got this (http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?cPath=33&
products_id=203), an output buffer board. It is basically plug and play and
installs right in line onto the breakout board. It holds the voltage right at 5 and I
was able to get my basic CNC up and running.
braunsquared (/member/braunsquared) 4 years ago Reply
Let me first say, awesome project. The plethora of information you have shared
is fantastic.
I've started to build my own 2beigh3. I purchased the 4/5 axis TB6560 stepper
controller from cncgeeker and the 8kg NEMA23 steppers from circuitspecialists.
I have them all wired up with a 15A 12V power supply and a 9V power supply
for the logic side. All looks happy with LED's happily lit abroad. I connected it all
up to a spare PC I had and tested out the motors. Here is where everything
started going downhill. After many trials and tribulations, I discovered the
parallel port was maxing out at 3.3V, so I ordered a PCI expansion port and
now have it happily at 5V where it should be. Now, motor tuning... ugh. No
matter what config I use, I can't get the motors to turn well. Using the example
config you provided, they make a lot of noise, but very little movement, mostly
jerky action. I've tried lowering the accel and velocity, changing the steps,
adjusting the low active on the pins and changing the pulse widths, all with the
same poor results. In idle, the motors lock up as they should be with remarkable
52 de 53 holding force. I'm unable to turn by hand at all. I've tested the motor leads and 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.
I'm seeing 12V as expected. I have the DIP switches for the stepper drivers set (/contest/makeitreal/
)
Combination CNC
at 0% decay, 20%Machine and
torque and 1/8th 3DAny
steps. Printer
suggestions
by or ideas on what I
can test next
taulman(/member/taulman/ would be greatly
) in 3D-Printing appreciated. I'm thinking it may be the
)
opto-couplers that I keep reading about, but I'm not convinced yet.
) 19 Steps
Thanks again for all you have done. Not sure where else to turn for assistance
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quite yet as googling it provides a hodgepodge of results. --Best, Tim
I More Comments
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About This Instructable

8 320.702 views License:

(/member taulman (/member

materials such as 3D Printing Nylon derivatives like tauman 618 as well as

3D Print of a Childs NYLON Prosthetic Insole on a 2BEIGH3 3D P…

Step 1: Goals and Approach

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Step 2: Base Structure Reference

Step 3: 2BEIGH3 Specs

4 de 53 (/file/FJOJKPJH2BMNJ1I/) 3/7/17 9:37 p. m.

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So before we get started, just what will we end up with..?

The 2BEIGH3 specs as detailed:

Spec CNC 3D Printer

Build volume 14” x 14” x 6” 14” x 14” x 12”

Material Aluminium 3mm or 0.125" ABS and PLA

Cut/Print Speed 350mm/min 24mm/s

Tools/Tips 0.125” – 0.250” .32mm - .62mm

Software Any CAD that Any 3D CAD that

I/O Computer must have a 25 pin +5 volt

Step 4: 2BEIGH3 Initial BOM

Mach3 CNC Software by Artsoft Inc Please Purchase

Now for the first trip to the Hardware store!

Step 5: Frame Assembly

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Step 6: Tools Needed for the Initial 2BEIGH3 CNC Section

Gather our tools and get organized!

The 2BEIGH3 uses dangerous extremes to do its job.

Step 8: Basic 2BEIGH3 CNC X Y Table BOM

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Show All Items

Basic 2BEIGH3 CNC X Y Table

Basic 2BEIGH3 Video

Step 9: Getting Those Stepper Motors Running

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Steps for MACH3

Motors and Drivers

Download h (/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/ ) 19 Steps

Step 10: Precision CNC Table

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Step 11: 2BEIGH3 Precision CNC Table BOM and Assembly

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Assembly per the drawing is straight forward.

Step 12: 2BEIGH3 Z Axis for All Configurations

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Step 13: Thoughts on CNC

As I mentioned, until I started this project, I knew nothing of setting up a

Step 14: 2BEIGH3 3D Printer Overview

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2BEIGH3 3D Print Demo 1

High Speed Video of initial pre-fracture test of 3D Printed Polymer

Downloadnylon msds.pdf (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FME/OPPB/H2BMNWA8

Step 15: 2BEIGH3 3D Printer X and Y Table

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DL my next XML file as it's configured for 3D printing. Again, you

BOM for the HW store

BOM from our Basic CNC Cut parts

The 2BEIGH3 3D Printer Extruder Assembly is similar to the geared extruders