Chunsakhaga Exploratory Expedition June 2014 Report

Janhavi Expedition III-‐ June 2014

Exploring the Ancient Chunsa Khaga,
Western Nelang, Uttarakhand.

Janhavi Exploration III-‐ Exploration of Chor Gaad Valley and Chunsa Khaga-‐ June 2014 2

Table of Contents

EXPEDITION OVERVIEW 3
INTRODUCTION TO NELANG VALLEY: 3
THE EXPEDITION IDEA: 3
EXPEDITION OBJECTIVES: 4
HISTORY AND ETYMOLOGY OF “CHUNSA KHAGA” 5
EXPEDITION PLANNING 7
EXPEDITION EXECUTION 10
EXPEDITION MEMBERS 20
DISSEMINATION OF THE EXPEDITION REPORT 23
ANNEXURES 24
ANNEX01-‐ EXPEDITION ROUTE CO-‐ORDINATES 24
ANNEX 02-‐ DAYWISE ACTUAL GPS PLOT ON TERRAIN MAP 26
ANNEX 03-‐ TEAM PLANNING SCREENSHOTS 29
ANNEXURE 04: IMF PERMIT DOCUMENTS 33
ANNEXURE 05: PICTURES OF POINTS OF INTEREST 35

Application Document for IMF Award 2014 for “Outstanding Exploratory Expedition” 2


Expedition Overview
Introduction to Nelang Valley:
The Nelang valley is home to the Jahnavi River, a tributary of the

Bhagirathi and technically the farthest water source of the Ganges. Because
of political disputes and geographic terrain, the area has remained
relatively inaccessible and unvisited since a long time.
After the first visit of Herbert into the area in the early 1820, the
accessibility of the area was improved slowly and steadily by the Kingdom
of Garhwal with active support from the British. The great game in the
19th century helped in keeping the British interest alive and subsequently
the area was explored and documented by British explorers such as
Wilson, Griesbach, S J Stone, Auden, Ottley and was used by Heinrich
Harrer during his famous escape to Tibet.
Apart from the British, H Kapadia and R Bhattacharjee of the Himalayan

Club are the notable explorers in the post-‐independence era who have
explored and written about the various tributary valleys of the Nelang
watershed.
The chief inhabitants are the Jadh Bhotias, who for a long time were the
middlemen for trade between Tibet and the Garhwal and Bushaher Kingdoms.
There are four major tributary valleys in the Nelang watershed which pour their
waters into the Jahnavi; The Chor Gaad, The Jadhang Gaad, The Tirpani Gaad and
The Mana Gaad valleys.

The Expedition Idea:
Of all the tributary valleys, the most documented is the Tirpani Gaad since
it also has on its North-‐Eastern fringes, the Tsang-‐Chok-‐La (Jelu Khaga)
which was the most used route by the Jadh Bhotias and Tibetians for trade.
Mana Gaad and its tributary Nilapani Gaad are the next most documented
valley because of the efforts put in by such mountaineers as JB Auden,
Ottley and Harish Kapadia. Auden and H Kapadia explored the Mana Gaad
area in their respective times in search of an easily passable col or Pass to
the Badrinath area.

After two successful forays into the Nelang Valley in 2012 and 2013 we
were naturally familiar with the broad geography of the watershed.

In 2012 we had completed Auden’s quest of finding a connect between the
Nelang and Saraswati Valley. In 2013 our team explored the hitherto un-‐
documented valley of Jadung. Almost no written account is found about the
area ahead of the Jadhang village in any of the accounts of the British and


Indian explorers.

The next least documented valley is the Chor Gaad, which has been
mentioned sketchily by Wilson and Gerrard in the 1800s till we had a more
information from Tapan Pandit’s team during their Baspa-‐Nelang
expedition in 2009. However, our research indicated that none of the
identified features in the historical writings have ever been documented by
any party in the last 300 odd years.

As we researched deeper about the Chor Gaad valley, the facts and legends
woven around the geography fascinated us. Additionally, we could find a
possible route during our research using satellite imagery, which looked
tantalizingly close in terms of matching details of the historical facts. The
idea of Expedition Chunsa Khaga was thus born.

“Chunsa” was the ancient Jadh name for the village, which meant “The
trading place by the riverside”. This village was called “Nelang” later on.
The entire watershed of Janhavi is many times referred to as the Nelang
Valley. “Khaga” in the local language means a high-‐pass. Thus Chunsa
Khaga was the name of the high pass that connected the Kinnaur Valley of
Himachal (Bushaher State) with the Chunsa or Nelang area of Garhwal
Himalayas.
Expedition Objectives:

We decided to explore the Jadh Ganga Valley and its Chor Gaad tributary in
Garhwal Himalayas into the Baspa Valley in Himachal Pradesh. While doing
so the team intends to achieve the following additional objectives
• Locate the Chunsakhaga Pass at the head of Chorgad Valley in

Nelang Watershed (mentioned by Fredrick Wilson and Alexander
Gerard in their respective memoirs in mid 1800s)
• Forge a route across the Chunsakhaga North or South Saddle after
exploring the peaks defining the pass
• Explore the Head of the Baspa Glacier and the adjoining peaks
• Descend to Gaundar Thach at the snout of Baspa Glacier
• Exit at Chitkul-‐ the last motorhead


(Map of Nelang Watershed with dotted rectangle indicating expedition focus)

All objectives of the expedition were achieved. The additional achievements were
gathering of oral historical data of the valley from traditional shepherds and
validation from the same about existence and location of the Chunsa Khaga pass.
This not only corroborated the previously documented historical facts but also
helped establish the exact location of the Chunsa Khaga.

History and Etymology of “Chunsa Khaga”

Three separate accounts of European explorers, in the first half of the 1800s,
indicate the existence of an ancient pass establishing direct contact between
Bushaher and Nelang.

“Chunsa Khago, from Chitkul to Nelang… a lofty pass not under 18000 ft” – wrote
Alexander Gerard in his famous narrative on Kinnaur during his visit around 1820.

He captured the oral history around the pass and mentioned about the armed tax
collectors of the Kingdom of Bushaher going to Nelang area over the pass. He also
described how the pass had been in disuse after a caravan1, met with an accident
and lost few lives.

1 pp 48-‐49-‐ “Account of Koonawar in the Himalaya”-‐ Capt. Alexander Gerard, 1815. Gerard mentions
in the footnote that he even managed to talk to few people in the party that went with “Teekum
Das”. The grandson of the hereditary Wazeer went on to become the ruler of Bushaher for a short
time during the politically turbulent times there in late 19th century


Fredrick Wilson, the British-‐born agent of Tehri State for Harsil area, emerged in
the scene about couple of decades later. “Changso Khaga”2 he wrote in his 1860
book, “..the pass that connects Nelang and Bushaher.”

Around the same time, the Schlagintweit brothers published their detailed
research of Central Himalayas. The Nelang-‐ Chitkul route3 is described in fair
amount of detail in it.

The confusion in the name of the pass can be easily settled by putting few more
facts together.

Fraser4, Hodgson & Herbert5, have reported as far back as 1815-‐1820 that the
alternate name of Nelang village, where the Jadh Bhotias lived, was “Chunsa”,
“Chungsa” or “Chounsah”.

Similarly “Khaga6”, as Wilson describes, is a high pass of permanent snow; as
opposed to ‘Kanda’/ ‘Kanta’ or ‘Khal’ which is a lower pass.

Thus lexically ‘Chunsa Khaga’ made sense-‐ ‘the high pass to Nelang’! Rather than
“Chungsakhago” as mentioned by Gerard.

One can only conjecture as to who discovered 7Chunsa Khaga and when it actually
came to use. Given the descriptions of the terrain and near-‐xenophobia of the
Jadhs, its usage by Bushaheris could only have been mandated by reasons driven
by political economy!

2 pp 150-‐151-‐ “A Summer Ramble in the Himalayas”-‐ “Wilson-‐The Mountaineer” 1860. Under the
pseudonym “Mountaineer”, Wilson describes his deep knowledge of the Nelang tract and in that
mentions the “Changso Khaga” as a straighter but more difficult alternative to the
Lamkhaga/Chhot Khaga passes
3 pp94-‐ Route# 153-‐ “Results of a scientific mission to India and High Asia-‐ Vol III”-‐ “Hermann,
Adolphe and Robert De Schlagintweit”,1860. The authors describe the pass as “..At the third march
from Nelong cross a difficult pass to the east of Lam Khaga. The slopes of this pass lead direct to
‘Do Sumdo’ and then one long march to Chitkul.” The absence of any journal reference in this
documentation is understandable since there have been few written records of the pass in any
previous documents apart from Gerard’s and Wilson’s. This further suggests that Adolphe
Schlagintweit would have taken down the details of the pass from oral accounts during his visit to
Southern Tibet.
4 pp217-‐ “Asiatic Researches Vol 13 1822-‐ Account of a Journey to the source of the Jumna and
Bhagirathi rivers” James B Fraser-‐1815, para 6-‐“..they stated that they were inhabitants of the
village ‘Chounsah’ consisting of few poor houses..”
5 pp91-‐“Asiatic Researches Vol 14-‐1822-‐ A Journal of Survey to the source of the Jumna and
Bhagirathi rivers” Capt. JA Hodgson-‐10th Regt.NI-‐1818, para 5-‐“..’Do Bhasias’ village called ‘Neilang’
in the district of ‘Tungsah’..”
6 pp 152-‐ “A Summer Ramble in the Himalayas”-‐ “Wilson-‐The Mountaineer”, 1860
7 After the expedition was over, we realized that the discovery may not have been very difficult
since it lies straight at the head of the Baspa Glacier, which broadly has a straight-‐line lay with
east-‐west alignment. One does not even have to turn anywhere approaching upstream from the
Baspa side. Any curious soul exploring up the gradual plains of the main Baspa Glacier would
eventually notice the pass at the end of his quest.


It appears, the Bushaheri influence on the Nelang tract, only possible through a
passage over Chunsa Khaga, started around the reign of the king Kehri Singh
around mid 17th century after he signed a trade treaty with Tibet. But weak
governance in the state in subsequent years and the Gurkha attack in 1800
rapidly decreased the Bushaheri influence.

The political fortunes dramatically altered after the Gurkha Invasion8 around
1803 and the subsequent Anglo-‐Nepalese war of 1815. With ascendance of British
power in the hills after the Gurkha war, the influence of Tehri State, backed by the
British, steadily increased in Nelang. This coincided precisely with a period of
rapid political decline in the Kingdom of Bushaher.

Around 1850, just when the Bushaheri kingdom was at the verge of bankruptcy;
Wilson was appointed9 at Harsil by Tehri Durbar to handle the border affairs of
the Nelang-‐Jadhs, their trade and taxes; a calculated move by the British to
safeguard the imperial interests. This changed the political scape of the area.

Wilson seems to have used his envisaged role, to gain a close connect with the
Nelang, in the back drop of the Great Anglo-‐Russian Game unfolding in high Tibet.
Access to Nelang also gave Wilson a much wider area of operation for his business
interests in Timber and Game Hunting.

By 1878, the Tehri Durbar already had its customs post10 at Nelang and the Jadhs
of Nelang had already established a summer settlement at Dunda11 near
Uttarkashi in the Bhagirathi valley. The Jadhs started getting integrated with
Garhwal in more ways than one. The Bushaheri influence on the area waned to
almost nil, changing the fortunes of Chunsa Khaga forever.

Expedition Planning

Out of the available accounts12 of this ancient pass, the following common points
emerged.

8 pp 107-‐ “The Princely and Noble Families of the former Indian Empire-‐ Himachal Pradesh, Mark
Brentnall”-‐ Indus Publishing 2004-‐ Para 06: “.. Raja Ugar Singh had the misfortune to be on the
throne at the time of Gorkha invasion..”
9 pp-‐ Appendix -‐XVIII, ‘Report on Survey of the Western sources of the Ganges-‐ particularly the Jadh
Ganga or Nilang Valley in 1878”, Mr T Kinney. “When the Raja of Tehri placed Mr F Wilson in charge
of his frontier affairs, the Jadhs, their trade, taxes etc., he abolished the system of slavery
prevailing and set all the slave girls free”
10 pp-‐ Appendix -‐XVII, ‘Report on Survey of the Western sources of the Ganges-‐ particularly the Jadh
Ganga or Nilang Valley in 1878”, Mr T Kinney. “The Tehri Raja now has his frontier customs post at
Nelang for the collection of duty from the traders”
11 -‐do-‐ “..are deserted during the winter months, the Jadhs moving down to Bhagirathi and hutting
themselves in at a place called Dhunda about 7 or 8 marches below Nelang”
12 Gerard, Wilson and Schlagintweit Brothers


• The pass connected the valleys of Baspa and Janhavi at about 18000 ft
• People from Kinnaur and Nelang transacted over this pass to collect or pay
taxes to the Kingdom of Bushaher using Jooboos or pack-‐sheep
• Alternate name of the pass was “Gundar/Gaundar Pass” indicating the
existence of Gundar13 pasture on the route
• A desolate march of 6 days without human habitation, preferably done in
the post monsoon period
• The ascent from Chitkul side easy and subsequently passed over vast
snowfields for one and half days
• On the third march from the Nelang, the pass located to the east of Lam
Khaga had to be crossed, descending directly to snout area of the Baspa

It was just a chance discovery while verifying on Google Earth, our previous year’s
expedition to Jadung.

We located a little twin-‐depression on the ridge at the head of the Kalapani
Glacier-‐ one of the tributaries valleys in the Upper Chorgad basin. The classic
saddle on the ridge led into the head of the Baspa Glacier. It appeared to have an
easy angle of ascent and descent, albeit through a crevassed snowfield on the
Baspa side; a friendly, straightforward and logical connection between the Baspa
and the Chor Gad! Almost every feature described earlier was matching.

The high quality satellite imagery of the area and the 3D data in Google Earth
helped us to plot a detailed route with potential campsites. The inputs from Tapan
Pandit’s account of 2009 helped.

The saddle of the pass topped out at about 5500M. The average ascent and
descent gradients were in the 10-‐12% range except for couple of short patches of
60%. The historical imagery on Google Earth showed a two-‐year-‐old snow-‐free
image of the glacier ice-‐sheets allowing us to digitally trace potential crevasses on
the entire route.

Soon enough an expedition page was created in Facebook for the expedition team.
The final team comprised of old friends like Arun, Bharat, Venkat, Sanjit and one
addition-‐ Nitin Joshi. Later, Nitin proved to be a key member, assuming the role of
the Team Scout. As usual our technical lead was Vinod Panwar from Uttarkashi
and the trusted Sirdar Rajender led the porters’ team. The chosen window for the
expedition after much iteration was the 2nd/ 3rd week of June.

13 pp 58-‐ “Raja of Harsil”-‐ Robert Hutchison, 2012. In a dramatic reconstruction of Wilson’s times
Hutchison, out of his own research, proposes the Nelang-‐Chitkul connect as the “difficult Gundar
Pass through Baspa” thus indicating that the Nelang-‐Chitkul connect had both “Baspa Glacier” and
“Gaundar Grounds” in its way


Figure 1-‐ Team Planning page on Facebook

By the time we left, the weather prediction for almost a week had been
consistently hinting at a sunny sky for almost the entire duration of the
expedition. Terrain-‐monitoring done through the EOSDIS website of NASA
indicated that the snow cover was rapidly melting and we were likely to have a
snow-‐free run almost all the way till base camp. The pictures of the monitoring
process indicated in Annexure 03.



Expedition Execution

Stage I-‐ Uttarkashi and Shepherds’ Trail to Bushaheri Nala

Uttarkashi(1100 M) -‐Dumku 3300 M (110Km) -‐ Misosa 3700M (12 Km)-‐
Thandapani 4050M (12 Km)-‐ Kalapani 4350M (6 Km)

We reached Uttarkashi on 7th June by midday. Having procured the necessary
permits, the evening was spent in a nice chat with the senior officials of the ITBP
Battalion that looks after the Nelang area.

“Aap itne der kahan the? CO Saab ne do baar phone kar ke puchha. Aap ko do baje
aana tha keh rahe the” The post commander at Nelang was waiting for us at his
snow-‐dome office when we arrived there to show the papers at 1530, the next
day.

“Koi baat nahin,” he continued “Chai lijiye jab tak main aapko route batata hoon..”
and he started off reeling out route details.

We absorbed as much detail as we could; cross verifying with the map printouts
we were carrying. After the download, we realized that our pre-‐designed route
plan and time schedule was almost 90% on target.

We had dropped the team off at Dumku on our way up to Nelang. By the time we
reached back the waiting team by 1630, they were all ready for the short march
down to the campsite beside the bridge over the confluence of Chor Gad and Jadh
Ganga.

The vertical granite-‐faces around the Dumku-‐bridge camp make for some
interesting observations. For almost a hundred feet up on these, one can see clear
signs of water erosion. The Chor Gad seemed to have gouged her course through
those hundreds of feet of Granite layers-‐ ballads many million years old etched
deep on those rocks!

We started off lazily around 0800 Hrs even as the sun shined gloriously upon the
eastern bounding ridge of the “Chor Gad” valley. The route snaked its way along
the true left of the river for the initial kilometer or so and then across a metal
bridge to the true right.

Another hour of spirited walk took us past the Lal Devta #1 camping ground and
then onto another possible campsite that the ITBP calls as Helipad #1. Though
these are good grounds, accessibility of water is an issue.

An easy walk along the right bank slowly came close to the Chaling Gad
confluence area. The confluence is not visible from the trail but one does enter a
boulder field indicating the proximity of the confluence. After the boulder field we


recovered a faintly visible trail, running along the true right of the Chaling Gad
and we soon saw the sturdy log bridge laid across the river.

After gaining the opposite bank, a short scramble of about 100 meters brought us
onto a table top upon a small densely wooded hillock. The ITBP and Shepherds
conveniently called this the Lal Devta hill. No real sign of Lal Devta worship exists
here though, other than the remaining vestiges of an old survey cairn and its
ramrod straight 15 ft long flagpole.

The dense pine-‐grove around the Lal Devta rock provided the much-‐needed shade
for resting as we regrouped. When we started off after a two-‐hour break, we made
a navigational blunder.

Figure 2-‐ Navigational error near Lal Devta 02
About 200 Meters down the visible trail leading to the north, there is a
bifurcation, one trail moving upstream and the other downstream towards the
right. We chose the former wrongly and lost considerable time and distance
trying to locate the bridge across the Chorgad, located half a kilometer
downstream.

Half an hour after gaining the left bank we entered the gentle yet frustrating slope
of the Misosa grounds. Within another hour we had crossed over the Misosa
stream coming from the glacier fields high above to our right.

It was well past midday and we were exhausted. Camp was set up on the right
bank of Misosa stream. The quality of water on the Misosa stream was much
better compared to the muddy waters of Chor Gad below.

Shortly after setting up camp we had an unexpected visitor from the neighboring
campground. He was a shepherd who had started off from Dumku that morning


an hour after we started and had covered all the ground with his flock of about
three hundred heads of goats and sheep. The poor animals were now afraid to
cross the log bridge over the Misosa stream and the chap was now resigned to
bivouac there for the night.

While the kitchen got active in preparing pakodas and tea, we setup a nice
campfire and invited the shepherd over for a tete-‐e-‐tete. The thirty something
shepherd Tilak Raj, with weather-‐beaten skin and twinkle in his eyes, was
enthusiastic in his narration. At the end of an hour of chatting up we had
gathered many interesting trivia.

Another seasoned shepherd called Govind Singh led the other group of shepherds.

Tilak fondly recalled the Tapan Pandit’s visit in 2009. He mentioned about the
other group of shepherd in the valley who were camped ahead and later
mentioned about the beautiful Kalapani campsite by the side of “Bushaheri Nala”.

We were happy; our research seemed to be in complete alignment with the
legends of the valley.

The picturesque trail next day first led us along the riverside over a kilometer and
then rose sharply for about 200 meters as we emerged upon a boulder field. The
field was separated from the high bank of the river by a grassy ledge about 100
meters wide. We had reached Helipad #3 or the Singmoche Camping Ground.

A little ahead beyond a fast flowing stream was a large rock with the usual red
pennant on a tall flagpole indicating Lal Devta #3. Up ahead the vast Changdum
plains opened up; a luxurious pasture, dotted with pretty yellow flowers.

Soon we saw a shepherd from a distance whistling merrily. Coming closer I could
see the unique facial description of Govind Singh as I had heard earlier-‐ here was a
man who had a hand-‐to-‐hand combat with a Himalayan Bear.

Just about two kilometers ahead of Changdum, where the course of the Chorgad
takes a wide sweeping turn towards far left, we went past the Misora Camping
ground sprinkled with floral dots of yellow and purple. The flowers were getting
ready to bloom and perhaps by the end of June the place had the potential to
become a mini Valley-‐of-‐Flowers.

A massive scree slope was now looming closer upon which the trail led diagonally
westwards. High above a sizeable herd of Bharals grazed about merrily
threatening our passage with potential rock fall. The passage went smoothly as
we entered level ground now, heading north again.

The trail now ran by the riverside where the Demoche Gad confluences with the
Chor Gad. The river is not difficult to cross here and on the far side we could see


groves of Birch, many potential camping spots and an abundance of pastures for
grazing.

Lost in that ethereal beauty of the pretty valley, resting by the riverside we had
our lunch unaware about the terrain that was about to hit our trail. After the
Demoche Gad marine drive the trail suddenly winds nastily upwards to the crest
of a spur coming out of the Nakurche complex, a spur that pushes the bed of the
Chor Gad sharply due west.

After a sudden rise the trail levels out and enters the wide fan of the moraine of
the Nakurche Glacier coming in from the right. Immediately afterwards one comes
across a shepherd shelter perched on top of a precipice directly looking down at
the Chor Gad, coursing through about 300 ft below.

Just ahead was the bad patch everyone had referred to earlier.

“Maidan ke baad thoda kharab raasta hai. Phislan wali mitti hai thoda. Waise hum
jaa rahe hain, Ghodon ke liye raasta bana lenge” -‐ Tilak Raj had informed us
during our little chat up at Misosa, “Bus uske baad Thandapani aa jata hai snow
bridge ke baad.”

This bad patch of about a furlong had myriad rainwater gullies running through a
broken bank of loose scree. The Chor Gad, releasing itself from the icy confines of
its upper valleys, was foaming about 250 ft below. Steps had to be cut for the
laden porters and we had a cautious passage.

The trail now leveled out with the river and a passage had to be found to the right
bank over a crevassed snow bridge. We slowly rose up the right bank and with in
about half an hour we were resting on a little flattish delta on the southern edge of
a confluence. A small stone hut with ramshackle roofing dominated the scene.
Some firewood was littered around. We had reached Thandapani camp.

“Thandapani Nala hai wahan. Nale ke oopar pul bana rakha hai humne. Usi side se
aage jana hai aapko. Ghode le jate hum wahan se Bushaheri Nala tak” – Tilak had
described earlier.

I walked up to the edge of the tabletop and had a look at the confluence. The
Thandapani stream was discharging a respectable volume of muddy brown water
into the relatively clear body of the Chor Gad. Over the furious flow of the
Thandapani was a small natural rock bridge, which had been reinforced by rock
masonry, as Tilak had mentioned.

The shepherd shelter served as a warm kitchen for the evening and the bright
moon heralded a feast of night photography in the coming days; we were soon to
enter the kingdom of snow. Weather was still holding good, as per predictions.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>



The trail hence wound steadily up for about 200 meters till the crest of the spur
that bisects the right bank of Chor Gad between Thandapani and Dudhpani valleys.
We had already crossed the 14000 ft mark and the exertion was telling. On the far
bank we saw scree slopes dropping in sheer precipices from Nakurche Ridge
about a 1000 meters above us.

Soon the trail leveled and dropped down to the lovely valley of Dudhpani. True to
its name the water was clear as spring water although it clearly was coming from
glacial melts.

We didn’t have time to partake of the beauty of the lovely Dudhpani valley to the
fullest. It is a recommended halt for future travellers into the valley. One just has
to push an additional hour after reaching Thandapani the previous evening!

After a quick regrouping we started ascending the trail leading to the crest of the
next ridge. We followed a diagonal ascent from the hollow of the Dudhpani stream
as advised by Tilak. He had assured that the route was good and they do use
mules on that track.

“Raasta theek nahin hai yahan se Sir. Niche jana padega nadi se. Waise camp site
dikh raha hai yahan se”-‐ called out Vinod, the lead scout, on the radio. Apparently
our current trail headed into a massive landslide zone to skirt which we would
have to climb another 1000 ft.

‘Perhaps route conditions have changed since Tilak’s last visit’, we thought.

The sharp descent to the bed of Chor Gad, the subsequent river crossings over the
network of snow bridges and final climb to the terminal flats of the Kalapani
Glacier added at least an hour of delay to the days work. Future parties shall be
well advised to take the high bridle path from Dudhpani to Kalapani14.

Kalapani, was the most picturesque camping ground we had settled into since the
beginning of the expedition.

A network of streams fed a small glacial lake near the brim of the basin by the
riverside. The blackish rocks on the streambed were indeed rendering a very dark
color to the otherwise clean and transparent water flowing through a canvas of
green, brown, yellow, purple and white.

As expected, the entire valley of Kalapani, a kilometer ahead of the camp, was
under a white blanket of snow. Some hints of brown were visible on the northern
walls of the bounding ridges. The long lateral ridges, which were supposed to lead
us to the head of the glacier, were totally snowbound.

Stage II-‐ The Traverse

14 We realized our mistake later. We should have started our diagonal climb much higher up in the
valley of Dudhpani. That would have allowed us to gain the crest much above the landslide area.


Kalapani 4350M-‐ Base Camp 4950M (6 Km)-‐ Advanced Base Camp 5250 M(2.5
km)-‐ Chunsa Khaga 5500M (1.5 Km) -‐Baspa Glacier 5000 M(5 Km)-‐ Gaundar
4250M (14 Km)

We made rapid progress next day along the right lateral moraine that soon
entered the massive glacial amphitheater of the Kalapani glacier at the middle of
which gurgled the baby stream of Bushaheri Nala as the shepherds would call it.
Though there was no crevasse danger in the area, the boulders made our progress
rather slow. Crossing the Busheheri Nala required only a hop-‐over.

After another couple of hours of grueling toil through the ever rising, steep and
virgin snow slopes we gained the tabletop of the left lateral moraine of the glacier.
As expected a small blue tarn greeted us at the entrance to the moraine ridge. We
had found our Base Camp.

With fully laden porters, we had managed the 6 Km trudge and the altitude gain of
600 Meters in just over 4 Hours.

The weather turned for the worse till about midnight.

A bright morning next day beaconed us to move station to the Advance Base Camp,
at the head of the lateral moraine and at the foot of the pass. Even though we were
a short scramble of three kilometers away from the ABC, we had not yet had a
glimpse of our objective. We were just pushing on blindly following GPS and the
landmarks.

After about an hour of climb on the lateral moraine ridge we came to the head of it
where it merged into a minor buttress coming out of the bounding ridge to our
right. We had to go over it following a steep zigzag across an exposed slope and
finally gained the top of the buttress; a huge convex hilltop.

Right ahead to the West was the Chunsa Khaga. Its twin sister, the Chunsa Khaga
(South) was nestled prettily to its left beyond a rocky pinnacle. The scene around
was surreal.

Giant 6000ers of the Nelang and adjoining valleys dotted the east and southeast
horizon. Pk Nakurche (6010M), our objective of the previous year, dominated the
skyline being the closest. Towards the west, the twin passes of Chunsa Khaga
North and South were bathed in the golden rays of the setting sun, their surfaces
shining a metallic gold as the snow-‐melt deflected the setting sun.

As soon as the sun went down the moon shone bright but the intense cold drew
us into the warmth of the sleeping bag.

>>>>>>>>>



The ascent to the pass involves a sharp climb, which tapers off near a place where
the Glacier takes a sharp tumble down. This inflection point was an important
part of our route plan. This is where we expected the few crevasses. Thankfully
these areas were well marked on the GPS and visually confirmed the previous
day.

The route kept close to the left of the glacier and near the inflection-‐point we
steered diagonally to the middle of the glacier. Ahead was an easy incline to the
saddle along a valley-‐trough about half a kilometer wide.

Within about two hours, the entire team was atop the Chunsa Khaga-‐
5500M(17900ft). We had made good time and still had at least 2 to 3 hours of
walk left before the unstable afternoon weathers of the extreme altitudes start
threatening our plans. We could already see a bad patch of gaping crevasses about
a kilometer away.

We could see the sprawling expanse of the Head of the Baspa Glacier. The complex
knot of Gundar and Arsomang ridges were directly ahead and the flow of the wide
Baspa Glacier was visible due west for at least five miles.

The descent was not as difficult as we expected. About a kilometer later we could
sense a change in the profile of the glacier bed indicating imminent danger of
crevasses. The team got organized into two ropes and followed a rib to the flat
snowfields of the glacier down below. A couple of sinister looking glacial tarns
with greenish-‐blue waters passed us by on both sides. The sun was beating down
mercilessly and the ambient temperatures read a high 44deg Celsius!

We un-‐roped, Upon reaching stable grounds we unroped, about 5 kilometers from
the pass. Here the Baspa Glacier bends away in a northwesterly direction.

A little tarn was located nearby where a tributary glacier joined in from the true
right. The glow of the setting sun upon that icy slope crafted the perfect canvas for
the camping of the triumphant team.

We had pushed non-‐stop for the past 6 days and we were past the biggest
obstacle. Only one last bit remained-‐ that of traversing the length of the uncharted
Baspa glacier with its steep avalanche prone sides without any incident.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Stage III-‐ Out of the mountains along The Baspa
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Gaundar CG 4250M-‐ Nithal 4200M(6 Km)-‐ Dumti CG 4000 M (10 Km)-‐ Ranikanda
3700M (12 Km)-‐ Nagasthi 3500M (6 Km)-‐ Chitkul 3400M(3 Km)-‐ Delhi (500 Km
Drive)

While designing the route we knew that the right bank of Baspa Glacier was our
safest bet for it had the longest unbroken surface till the snout of the glacier. In


contrast, the left side was heavily broken for the last 2 kilometers of the glacier’s
length. Also the right bank being a south facing side was likely to be more free
from snow than the left.

About a hundred meters from the camp we saw the beginning of the little Baspa
stream, which steadily increased in its dimensions as we walked along her. She
went subterranean after a while where the mile long prominent medial moraine
started.

Within about 3 hours of our march we could see the outline of the Lamkhaga
ridge junction indicating that the snout area was coming near.

In the last 2 kilometers we could see the death throes of the Baspa Glacier as open
and broken glacier surfaces revealed the flow of Baspa beneath it. We could see
the river fully exposed at least two kilometers above what is formally known as
the snout of the glacier.

The day the two transverse ice barriers defining the snout melt away, the source
of Baspa will suddenly recede by at least half a kilometer in one stroke!

After the 14 Km long trudge over snow, rock and boulders we reached the snout
around 1500 Hrs. A kilometer ahead was the Gaundar camping grounds; our
objective for the day.

The last challenges of the Baspa valley remained to be tackled now-‐ the swollen
rivers all the way and the exposed slopes between Dumti and Ranikanda. Our
immediate concerns were the two sizeable streams that were to be forded the
next day-‐ first the Gaundar Nala and then the bigger and more tempestuous
Arsomang Nala, beyond which lay the Nithal ITBP post.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Thankfully a snow bridge over Gaundar Nala and a well-‐engineered bridge over
the Arsomang Nala saw us through to Nithal Post in no time. Twenty odd men
from the Army and ITBP greeted us on the high right bank of Baspa.

The post staffing was relatively thin since a large detachment of troops had left
for military-‐exercise near the Yamrang La, we were told. After the paperwork and
reporting we had the customary photo-‐op with the jawans before we left for the
ten kilometers of onward march to Dumti post.

The river bed fans out wide after the Nithal post, the distance between the two
banks gradually increasing to about two kilometers very soon. The massive flat in
between is filled with grass, shrubs and rocks. Numerous springs emerge here on
the riverbed and combine to form the clear blue waters of the Nithal Nadi, which
merges with the Baspa with in about a kilometer.



Before long we crossed the green meadows heralding the approach of Dumti as
the Baspa narrowed down again before taking a giant sweeping turn to skirt the
remains of a long dead glacial fan coming down from the Rangrik Rang massif.
Upon this flat glacial fan the Dumti post is located.

Across a stream we saw a small group of people who seemed to be waiting for us.
It looked like we had a welcome party from the ITBP ready with ‘chai’
refreshments (tea and biscuits). Nearby was the Karu Devta temple – the
presiding deity of the Dumti area.

Legend goes that once Wilson Sahib of Harsil had travelled to Dumti around circa
1881 and here he fell seriously ill15. A goat then had to be offered to Karu Devta
before he instantly recovered-‐ writes S J Stone in his 1891 memoir16.

We were ushered into a “Guest House” of the Post, which has been a recent
addition. Two well-‐carpeted rooms with beds, a Siachen-‐sleeping Bag and an
attached western-‐toilet completed the do. We even had choice of hot water for
washing! It was Star-‐luxury for us after more than a week of camping in high
snows.

During the idle discussions in the evening, the familiar sadness of having to go
back to the fleshpot of the city had begun welling up inside. We were targeting a
long march to Chitkul next day; a gradual descent with couple of tricky patches
over 21 kilometers.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Immediately after Dumti, the trail winds along some exposed and broken slopes of
loose scree, which require extreme care. The view of the angry waters of the
Baspa, raging almost vertically below, is not a comfortable sight.

About two kilometers before Ranikanda one crosses the craggy and exposed sides
of mountain of red-‐rocks, famously known as “Lal Dhang”-‐ The Red Hill. The
rusting slabs on the trail confirm our suspicion that it is actually a mountain of red
hematite-‐ iron ore!

Ahead of Rani Kanda, as we approached the Doaria CG, the lovely meadow on
right bank opposite the Jupica Gad confluence, we saw a large number of ITBP and
Army men moving into the valley for exercise. Soldiers and shepherds alike gave
us the look of utter incredulity when we told them where we were coming from.

After a final regrouping, refreshments and photo-‐op with jawans of ITBP Nagasthi
we set off one our last leg to Chitkul. It was 1530, seven straight hours of hard
march out of Dumti, when we reached the Chitkul Bus Stand.

15 Fredrick Wilson (Hulsyn Sahib as locals called him) was perhaps very old at that time and was in
his terminal years. He finally succumbed to ill health in 1886
16 pp 271, “In and Beyond The Himalayas, S J Stone 1885”, Edward Arnold 1896, Para 2


********************
During the drive down from Kinnaur the spectacular course of the Satluj and the
marvelous road engineering at the scary Taranda gorge left a deep impact.

The valley of Satluj is awe-‐inspiring. Her torrents on a normal day have a form
much fiercer than that of the Ganga or the Yamuna in full spate. The turbulence
and muddiness of her waters flowing through deep ravines with mural precipices
leave a deep impact on the psyche of the observer. I made a mental note for future
visits into her valleys.

Thus ended our third visit into the valley of the Jahnavi. Instead of satiating the
thirst, this journey only deepened it further. The watershed, with her many
dimensions, creates some sort of a magnetic pull. Whether the mighty mountain
allows that foray into the last valleys of Tirpani and Nilapani will be seen in due
course of time.



Expedition Members
The team that went exploring the Jadung Valley and Nakurche Peak in the
previous year in the same watershed was mostly retained. The final team
comprised of old friends like Arun, Bharat, Venkat, Sanjit and one addition-‐
Nitin Joshi. Later, Nitin proved to be a key member, assuming the role of the
Team Scout. The chosen window for the expedition after much iteration
was the 2nd/ 3rd week of June.
Ashutosh Mishra -‐ is an accomplished Management Consultant by

profession, advising several reputed corporate clients on Business
Planning, Operations Strategy and Leadership Development. His other
passion is for furthering outdoor based education. He is based out of
Indirapuram -‐ NCR.
Role: Expedition Leader
Climbing background / expertise:
• Nakurche Peak & Janak Glacier (5850 M)-‐ June 2013
• Tara Peak and Basisi Col (5900 M) -‐ June 2012
• Jaintidhura (5650M), Khingardhura(5250M) June 2011
• Bhyunder Khal (5100M), Guptkhal (5835M) -‐June 2010
• Kankul Khal (4715M) -‐ Nov 2009

• Nalgan Pass (4800M), Lamkhaga Pass (5350M) -‐ June 2009
• Dhumdharkandi Pass (5400M) -‐ June 2008
• Bali Pass (4800M) -‐ Nov 2007
• Bamsarukhal (4700M) -‐ Aug 2005

Vinod Singh Panwar -‐ is an accomplished trekking and mountaineering
professional from Uttarakashi region. Apart from exploratory expeditions he
spends his time guiding discerning tourists and helping out in various NIM led
search and rescue missions. He spends his occasional spare time assisting
instructors at NIM Uttarkashi.
Role: Climbing Lead
• Basisi Col (5900M) -‐ June 2012
• Jaintidhura (5620M), Khingardhura(5250M) -‐ June 2011.
• Bhyunder Khal (5100M), Guptkhal (5835M) -‐ June 2010
• Nalgan Pass (4800M), Lamkhaga Pass (5350M)
• Draupadi ka Danda Peak (5600M)
• Baby Shivling -‐ (Above 6000M)
• Jaonli Peak (6632 M)


Anand Venkat – works as a senior management member with a leading
organisation in the ITES domain. Whether in India or in his off shore
locations, Anand loves to spend time with his Nikon.
Role: Climber
• Valley of Flowers to Hemkund Sahib – Aug 2008
• Triund – Laka ( 3200M) – Dec 2007
• Chandratal (4337M) – June 2007
• Kailash Mansarovar – Tibet (4550M) Dolma pass, Tibet (5630M)-‐ June
2005
• Number of short treks in the Sahyadris

Arun Negi -‐ has a background in managing large project teams in the IT
and
ITES space. Being an accomplished Parkour artist, he is at ease doing
“handstand”s atop extreme altitude summits! He is based out of NOIDA.
Role: Team Videographer, as well as handling expedition finances.
• Jaintidhura (5650M), Khingardhura(5250M) -‐ June 2011.
• Bhyunder Khal (5100M), Guptkhal (5835M) – July 2010
• Kyarkoti (3500M) -‐ Dec 2009
• Kedartal (4500m) -‐ Sept 2008
• Roopkund (5029m) -‐ 2007
• Triund / Laka -‐ Dec 2007
• Amarnath Cave – 2004

Bharat Tomar -‐ is a frequent visitor to the IMF “Wall” apart from being a
software engineer managing large teams in the IT domain. He is based out
of NOIDA.
Role: Climber
• Basisi Col (5900M) -‐ June 2012
• Jaintidhura (5650M), Khingardhura(5250M )-‐ June 2011.
• Bhyunder Khal (5100M), Guptkhal (5835M) -‐ June 2010
• Kyarkoti (3500M) -‐ Dec 2009


Nitin Joshi-‐ works as a senior management member in a leading Telecom
and ITES organisation. When he is not busy managing projects, Nitin loves
to spend his spare time behind the lenses and with his family. He is based
out of Gurgaon-‐ NCR.
Role: Team Scout/Photo-‐Stills
• Everest Base camp/Kala Patthar (5643 M) April 2012
• Har ki Doon Dec 2012
• Khalia Bugyal (3500M) -‐ Sept 2009
• Roopkund (5029 M)-‐ Sept 2008

Sanjit Singh Bal -‐ serves in a senior leadership role in one of the leading
ITES companies of India at Gurgaon. Full with energy and optimism, his
expertise in handling various authorities came handy for obtaining the
various crucial permissions and Institutional support that the team
required.
Role: Climbing/Authorities Liasioning for various permissions.

• Treks in Pahalgaum /Sonmarg & Gulmarg in Kashmir
• Treks in Sangla valley & Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh

Rajinder – He has participated in few of our previous expeditions as a regular porter.
Since last few years he has grown to become a strong leader, and now plays the very
important role of Porter Sirdar. He was also part of the 2 member team (other
member being climbing guide Vinod Panwar) that forged the route to Nakorche S Col
summit. He was also part of the Nakorche peak climbing team. Rajinder has been part
of the expedition team in all previous two forays into the Nelang valley
Role: Porter Sirdar

• Tara Peak and Basisi Col (5900 M) -‐ June 2012
• Jaintidhura (5650M), Khingardhura(5250M) June 2011



Dissemination of the Expedition Report

1. Expedition sent for publication in The Indian Mountaineer 2014 issue by Indian
Mountaineering Foundation

2. Multimedia presentation and talk to the Himalayan Club, August 03, 2014, New
Delhi

3. Expedition report published in blog at Snowscapes of the Himalayas, by Ashutosh
Mishra. August, 2014

4. You Tube: Chunsa Khaga Expedition Trailer: http://youtu.be/uTYmriAqU7k

5. You Tube: Jahanvi Expedition Historical Intro http://youtu.be/jli_L65rabM



Annexures
Annex01-‐ Expedition Route Co-‐ordinates

Height
Day Points of Interest Coordinates Height (Feet)
(Metres)
Latitude: 31.1053340323
Day1 Dumku Campsite Longitude : 78.9687670022 3280 10761
Latitude: 31.1097450089
Day1 Lal Devta 01 Longitude : 78.9625089895 3346 10978
Latitude: 31.1127859633
Day1 Namti Shepherd CG Longitude : 78.9591950364 3395 11138
Latitude: 31.1159649678
Day1 Chaling Nala Longitude : 78.9582379907 3422 11227
Latitude: 31.1253709719
Day1 Chaling Shepherd CG Longitude : 78.9569780231 3445 11302
Latitude: 31.1366589647
Day1 Chaling Bridge Longitude : 78.9519519825 3572 11719
Latitude: 31.1367509980
Day1 Lal Devta 02 Longitude : 78.9539809898 3610 11844
Latitude: 31.1383220181
Day1 Lal devta 02 Bridge Longitude : 78.9539759606 3587 11768
Latitude: 31.1450700369
Day1 Misosa Gaad Longitude : 78.9509319887 3685 12090
Latitude: 31.1461109854
Misosa CampSite
Day2 Longitude : 78.9495430235 3655 11991
Latitude: 31.1534189992
Day2 CG_Shingmoche_HELI03 Longitude : 78.9461210277 3783 12411
Latitude: 31.158351°
LalDevta3
Day2 Longitude: 78.942670° 3800 12467
Latitude: 31.1842530034
Day2 Changdum Shepherd CG Longitude : 78.9257899672 3853 12641
Day2 Mishora CG Longitude : 78.925004° 3891 12766
Day2 Landslide region Longitude: 78.913699° 3982 13064
Latitude: 31.2104229815
Bridge(Snow)_Thandapani
Day2 Longitude : 78.9091350418 4038 13248
Latitude: 31.2126160227
Day3 Thandapani Campsite Longitude : 78.9080749825 4047 13278
Latitude: 31.2132903468
Day3 Thandapani Log Bridge Longitude : 78.9073183481 4054 13301
Latitude: 31.2233632151
Day3 Dudhpani Camping Ground Longitude : 78.9041982684 4196 13766
Latitude: 31.2400570326
Day4 Kalapani CampSite Longitude : 78.9007900190 4308 14134


Latitude: 31.23254903
Day5 C05_Base Camp Longitude : 78.87023597 4897 16066
Latitude: 31.2300750241
Day6 Advance Base Camp Longitude : 78.8554279972 5221 17129
Latitude: 31.2307940237
Day6 North Chunsa Khaga Longitude : 78.8400750328 5490 18012
Latitude: 31.2113100383
Day7 Baspa Bend Campsite Longitude : 78.7992779631 4998 16398
Latitude: 31.2240512017
Day7 Baspa Glacier Snout Longitude : 78.6982580926 4311 14144
Latitude: 31.2317099981
Day8 C08_Gaundar_CG Longitude : 78.6930100154 4287 14065
Latitude: 31.2760540377
Day8 Nithal Bridge Longitude : 78.6809959821 4203 13789
Latitude: 31.2776981480
Day8 ITBP Nithal Thach Longitude : 78.6790323537 4202 13786
Day8 Sunthi Log Bridge Longitude : 78.649783° 4128 13543
Latitude: 31.2903920375
Day9 Dumti Post CampSite Longitude : 78.5965599585 4094 13432
Lat: 31.314918°
Day10 Ranikanda Long 78.514361° 3704 12152
Latitude: 31.3505689893
Day10 Chitkul Longitude : 78.4363360237 3420 11220



Annex 02-‐ Daywise Actual GPS Plot on terrain map

Day 01-‐ Dumku-‐ Misosa Camping Ground

Day 02-‐ Misosa Camping Ground-‐ Thandapani Camping Ground



Day 03/4/5-‐ Thandapani-‐ Kalapani-‐ Base Camp (Kalapani Glacier)

Day 6/7-‐ Base Camp-‐ Advanced Base Camp-‐ Chunsa Khaga-‐ Baspa Glacier Camp



Day 8/9-‐ Baspa Glacier-‐ Gaundar Camp-‐ Nithal Thach

Day 9/10-‐ Nithal Thach-‐ Dumti-‐ Chitkul



Annex 03-‐ Team Planning Screenshots

The Facebook page was used powerfully for information exchange and decision
making. Modern Technology like Google Earth Imagery (Map Making), EOSDIS
Imagery for Terrain Monitoring and Accuweather data for weather forecasting
pattern monitoring as the key decision support system for executing the
expedition. All the data was available free on the internet.

Weather Monitoring (Accuweather extended forecasts)



Terrain Monitoring (EOSDIS Nasa Imagery)



Moonphase monitoring for night photoshoots



1:5000 Map prepared from Google Earth and Bing Map imagery for close up of the
expedition zenith area. The original map size is 5ftX2ft.

Overlaid Maps on Google Earth 3D data for accurate plotting the entire route



Annexure 04: IMF Permit Documents





Annexure 05: Pictures of Points of Interest

Dumku Camp

Lal Devta #01


Chaling Gaad Bridge



Lal Devta 02 Area

Lal Devta#2 Bridge-‐ The Misosa Bridge

Misosa Camp

Lal Devta #3


Changdum Camp Area

Thandapani Scree


The Thandapani Camp Area-‐ Looking Upstream

The Dudhpani Stream


The Kalapani Camp

Base Camp on Left Moraine of Kalapani Glacier and Bushaheri Nala

Advanced Base Camp and the Twin Passes of Chunsa Khaga North and South


Baspa Glacier Panorama

Baspa Glacier Head Camp area Panorama

Terminal Part of Baspa Glacier


The Lam Khaga Pass area from Baspa Glacier Snout


Chunsakhaga Exploratory Expedition June 2014 Report

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Chunsakhaga Exploratory Expedition June 2014 Report

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Janhavi Expedition III-‐ June 2014

Western Nelang, Uttarakhand.

Table of Contents

DISSEMINATION OF THE EXPEDITION REPORT 23

The Nelang valley is home to the Jahnavi River, a tributary of the

Apart from the British, H Kapadia and R Bhattacharjee of the Himalayan

The Expedition Idea:

• Locate the Chunsakhaga Pass at the head of Chorgad Valley in

History and Etymology of “Chunsa Khaga”

Ashutosh Mishra -‐ is an accomplished Management Consultant by

• Nakurche Peak & Janak Glacier (5850 M)-‐ June 2013

• Nakurche Peak & Janak Glacier (5850 M)-‐ June 2013

Dissemination of the Expedition Report

Annex 02-‐ Daywise Actual GPS Plot on terrain map

Annex 03-‐ Team Planning Screenshots

Annexure 04: IMF Permit Documents

Annexure 05: Pictures of Points of Interest

Lal Devta 02 Area

You might also like

Chunsakhaga Exploratory Expedition June 2014 Report

Uploaded by

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Original Description:

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

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Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

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Chunsakhaga Exploratory Expedition June 2014 Report

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Janhavi Expedition III-­‐ June 2014

Western Nelang, Uttarakhand.

Table of Contents

DISSEMINATION OF THE EXPEDITION REPORT 23

The Nelang valley is home to the Jahnavi River, a tributary of the

Apart from the British, H Kapadia and R Bhattacharjee of the Himalayan

The Expedition Idea:

• Locate the Chunsakhaga Pass at the head of Chorgad Valley in

History and Etymology of “Chunsa Khaga”

Ashutosh Mishra -­‐ is an accomplished Management Consultant by

• Nakurche Peak & Janak Glacier (5850 M)-­‐ June 2013

• Nakurche Peak & Janak Glacier (5850 M)-­‐ June 2013

Dissemination of the Expedition Report

Annex 02-­‐ Daywise Actual GPS Plot on terrain map

Annex 03-­‐ Team Planning Screenshots

Annexure 04: IMF Permit Documents

Annexure 05: Pictures of Points of Interest

Lal Devta 02 Area

You might also like

Janhavi Expedition III-‐ June 2014

Ashutosh Mishra -‐ is an accomplished Management Consultant by

• Nakurche Peak & Janak Glacier (5850 M)-‐ June 2013

• Nakurche Peak & Janak Glacier (5850 M)-‐ June 2013

Annex 02-‐ Daywise Actual GPS Plot on terrain map

Annex 03-‐ Team Planning Screenshots