MINIMUM WORKMANSHIP STANDARDS – APPAREL
IF not called out in tech pack and/or standard construction manual
THEN the following Minimum Standards apply
SEAMS/TOPSTITCHING
1 - Seam is straight without waving, curling, puckering or pleating.
2 - Seam margin is an even width.
3 - No seam grin due to loose tension or large SPI.
4 - No seam slippage.
5 - Cross seams match at transverse/join; i.e. inseam/rise join on
pants.
6 - Only one repair in a seam of 18”. The overlap must be at least
4 stitches.
7 - No loose or skipped stitches.
8 - No extraneous part of garment is caught in a seam.
9 - Topstitching is even and uniform.
10 - No seam breakage.
POCKETS
1 - No pulling, gaping or puckering.
2 - Corresponding pockets must align
even/symmetric with one another and on
garment.
3 - Pocket and flaps are uniform in
size/shape.
4 - Pocket opening corners must be
reinforced and secured.
5 - Pocket bags are double stitched.
ZIPPERS
1 - Top and bottom stops are securely
fastened.
2 - Zipper ends are as flat as possible, not
bulky.
3 - No curling of zipper.
4 - Top zipper stoppers are hidden in slider
casing when closed.
5 - No dimple at end of invisible zipper
6 - Zipper must zip and un-zip easily without
getting caught at any point..
7 - No puckering, pulling along zipper setting.
For Standard Construction Manual refer to www.nordstromsupplier.com/NPG/techdesign.html
有關標準施作手冊，請參見
For all NPG Kids Apparel - Garments must comply with Children’s Safety Regulations
Refer to www.nordstromsupplier.com/NPG/productintegrity.html
MINIMUM STITCHES PER INCH (SPI)
每英吋最少針數 (SPI)
Light Weight < 110 g/m2 = 12 SPI
Medium Weight > 110 g/m2 < 270 g/m2 = 10 SPI
Heavy Weight > 270 g/m2 = 8 SPI
SEAMS/TOPSTITCHING – SWEATER
1 - No linking breakage when seams are stretched.
2 - Tubular linking without excessive bulk in seam.
3 - Linking must be secured at hem, cuff, neck, armhole.
SEAMS/TOPSTITCHING - KNIT
1 - Shoulder seams are reinforced.
2 - No seam breakage when seams are stretched.
3 - Minimum 4 thread safety stitch required for all join seams.
COLLARS FRONT PLACKET
1 - Points/curves are uniform in size/shape. 1 - Top placket is even with bottom
placket when buttoned.
2 - Under collar does not roll to the outside.
2 - Placket width is even.
3 - Lies smooth around neck, no puckering,
pulling or draglines.
4 - Collar band fits smoothly inside without 3 - Placket is not puckered, pulled or
excessive puckering. sewn off-grain.
5 - Stripes, plaids, patterns match or mirror
on collar points.
4 - Aligned with hem line.
BUTTONS BUTTONHOLES/LOOP
1 - Placed evenly and aligned properly on
garment without puckering or pulling. 1 - Button can easily move through
buttonhole without it being too loose.
2 - Sewn and tacked securely with no
loose threads. 2 - Spaced evenly and in correct
alignment with button.
3 - Loose fabric yarns and buttonhole
3 - Button markings not visible. threads neatly trimmed.
4 - Button must be aligned to the keyhole
end of buttonhole.
4 - No sharp edges or noticeable flaws.
5 - Button loop must be snug enough to
not come undone on wearer.
5 - Anchor button (mainly bottoms) must
take the strain of the closure.
HEM
1 - Sewn securely without puckering.
2 - No loose stitches.
3 - No skipped stitches.
4 - No rolling, twisting or roping.
5 - Must be even width.
6 - No marking thru of hem allowance to face side.
7 - Blind stitched hem is secured, no unraveling of stitches.
HEM – SWEATER
1 - Cast on edge cannot be loose and wavy nor too tight.
HEM - LEATHER
1 - No glue visible to outside of garment.
2 - Hem must be tacked at seam joins.
CUFF/SLEEVE PLACKET WAISTBAND/BELT LOOPS
1 - Cuff seam and cuff edges are in 1 - Waistband width is even.
alignment when buttoned.
2 - No excessive puckering or fullness.
2 - Inside cuff does not roll to outside.
3 - Waistband curtain does not show on
right side of garment.
4 - No missing, crooked or incorrectly
placed belt loops.
SLEEVE
5 - Belt loops are reinforced and raw
1 - Must be set with ease distributed edges are enclosed.
correctly/evenly.
LINING FINISHING/PRESSING
1 - Lining seams securely stitched and 1 - No loose threads. No long threads.
reinforced at stress points. No visible markings/stains.
2 - Linings hang straight in the garment
without pulling, being too tight or having 2 - No scorch, burn, or press marks. No
excessive fullness. dampness in poly bag.
3 - Linings are not to hang below garment.
3 - No wrinkling. No improper creasing.
INTERFACING No gloss or color change due to over
1 - Fused interfacings adhere properly to pressing.
fabric, with no bubbling, de-lamination,
waving or fabric discoloration.
4 - All parts of garment are pressed
2 - Interfacing is appropriate for weight of neatly, inclusive of lining.
base fabric.
Nordstrom Confidential 05/01/2015