Sewing Lesson: Fitted Blazer #101 10/2018

By Burdastyle October 1, 2018 No comments

Refer to "the pattern’s store page here" for
specific fabric yardage and notion
requirements. Also remember to add seam
allowance (you can either add to the paper
pattern before cutting or to the fabric around
the pattern… see below), further info and
amounts can be found in the instructions PDF
after purchase.

Step 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES Fold the jacket
fabric lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper
pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the
cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk,
mark the seam and hem allowances, as
follows: 4 cm (15/8") for hem and sleeve hem
and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and
edges. Draw the measured pieces (a and b)
directly on the fabric. Cut out all fabric pieces.
Lining: Following the cutting layout, cut pieces
3, 4, 5, 12, 13, and b from lining fabric, adding
1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam and hem allowances.
Step 2: THE INTERFACING Fold interfacing in
half, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern
pieces 1 and 7 to 11 to the interfacing. Add 1.5
cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Draw piece a
on the interfacing. Cut out all interfacing
pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides
of corresponding fabric pieces. In addition, iron
interfacing strips to wrong side of fabric on slit
facings of back and sleeve pieces and hem
allowances of side, back, and sleeve pieces.
Lay or fold interfaced pieces together again,
right sides facing. Pin pattern pieces to fabric
pieces.
 Step 4: FRONT DARTS Slash each front piece
Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
along marked pocket line, ending 1.5 cm (5/8")
TO THE FABRIC For sizes 36 to 44, mark the
before the end. Trim away seam allowances.
front end of the pocket line on each front piece,
Cut along centre of dart, ending approx. 2 cm
the same distance from dart as marked for size
(3/4") from the point. Pin dart closed. Stitch
34. On all fabric and lining pieces, use
dart toward point. Trim seam allowances.
dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing
Press dart seam open, pressing point flat.
wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam
Hand sew edges of horizontal slash closed,
and hem lines) and all other pattern markings
with herringbone stitches.
to the wrong side of the fabric, following the
manufacturer's instructions. Hand baste along
lines for pockets, slits, hems, center front, and
folds to make them visible on right side of
fabric.

Step 5: SIDE FRONT SEAMS Lay side pieces

on front pieces, right sides facing. Pin side
front seams, matching seam numbers (1).
Stitch seams. Press seams open. On each
side piece, use vanishing chalk to mark the
pocket line as an extension of the slash and to
the length of the flap (a total of 14 cm/ 5 1/2").
Iron interfacing strips, 4 cm (15/8") wide, to the
wrong side of each side piece, over the
marked line.

Step 7: ATTACH POCKET LINING

PIECES Turn pipings toward pocket opening
and press. Fold small triangles to inside and
stitch to pipings. On inside, lay each pocket
lining piece over lower piping attachment
seam, right side facing wrong side, and pin in
place – pocket lining piece points up. Working
from outer side, stitch along lower piping
attachment seam, thereby catching lining
piece. Press lining piece down.

Step 6: STITCH PIPING IN PLACE With

vanishing chalk, mark piping placement lines
on the right fabric side, 1.5 cm (5/8") above
and below each pocket line. Press each piping
strip in half lengthwise. Pin each piping strip in
place so the fold edge meets the marked
placement line. Mark pocket ends on piping.
Stitch piping in place, 7 mm (1/4") from fold
edge. Cut side piece, ending 1.5 cm (5/8")
before pocket end, and clip diagonally into
each corner, thereby forming small triangles –
do not cut piping.
Step 8: FLAPS Pin each interfaced flap piece
to a flap piece with no interfacing, right sides
together. Stitch edges together as illustrated.
Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Turn
flap right side out and press. Slide open edge
of each flap under the up-per piping and pin in
place.

Step 10: CENTER BACK SEAM Trim left back

piece 1.5 cm (5/8") from marked LEFT EDGE
line. Lay back pieces together, right sides
facing. Baste center back seam from upper to
lower edges. Stitch seam from upper edge to
slit mark. Tie-off ends of seam. On right back,
clip allowance at upper end of underlap into
corner (arrow).

Step 9: STITCH POCKET AND LINING

PIECES TOGETHER Working from the inside,
lay each pocket piece of main fabric on pocket
lining piece, right sides facing. Pin to
attachment seam of upper piping. Working
from the outer side, stitch along upper piping
attachment seam, thereby catching the flap
and pocket piece. Pin pocket and lining pieces
together, trim even, and stitch edges together.

Step 11: BACK SLIT Press back seam open

above clip. Press slit allowances toward left
back. On right back, press facing to inside, Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances and
along marked FOLD LINE, and baste in place. clip curves. Press seams open. Topstitch close
Baste facing and underlap to left back. to each side of each seam.
Working from the outer side, topstitch left back
diagonally, as marked, thereby catching the
facing and underlap.
Step 12: SHOULDER SEAMS Lay jacket fronts
on jacket back, right sides facing. Pin shoulder
seams, easing back shoulder edges. Stitch
seams. Also stitch shoulder seams on facing
pieces, matching seam numbers (4). Press all

seams open .

Step 14: ATTACH COLLAR Stitch under collar

with collar stand to each jacket front, from
seam mark to corner, matching seam numbers
(5). Tie-off ends of seam. Stitch upper collar to
front facings in the same manner, matching
seam numbers (6). Clip jacket fronts and front
facings each into corner, close to last stitch
(arrow).

Step 13: COLLAR STANDS Pin collar stand

pieces to upper and under collar pieces, right
sides facing, matching seam numbers (5).
Step 15: ATTACH COLLAR Pin under collar to
neck edge of jacket, between clips, matching
Step 17: SEW LAPELS Lay facings on jacket
seam marks on collar stand to shoulder
fronts, right sides together, on lapels easing
seams. Stitch. Trim seam allowances and clip
extra length from outer edges. Pin edges
curves. Press seam open. Stitch upper collar
together. Beginning at each seam mark, stitch
to neck edge of facing in the same manner.
edges together, on lower edge ending stitching
at marked hem line. Trim seam allowances,
trimming diagonally across corners. On hem
edge, trim only up to 2 cm (3/4") from facing
edge (arrow).

Step 16: STITCH COLLAR PIECES

TOGETHER Pin upper collar to under collar,
right sides facing, easing extra length from
outer edges and matching seam lines. Stitch.
Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally
across corners. At seam marks, clip seam Step 18: BASTE LAPEL CURVES Turn collar
allowances of fronts and facings close to and facings to inside. Baste facings and press.
stitching (arrow). Between each clip and front Roll under collar and jacket fronts along
edge, turn allowance of lapel up. marked FOLD LINES. Baste pieces together
with long angled stitches. Pin collar attachment
seams together then stitch them together by
machine or sew them together by hand, with
back stitches.

open.

Step 19: SIDE BACK SEAMS HEM / SLIT Lay

side pieces on back piece, right sides facing.
Pin side back seams, matching seam numbers
(2). Stitch seams. Press seams open. At back
slit, open facings. Finish lower edge of jacket.
Turn hem allowance to inside, baste, and
press. Sew hem loosely in place by hand. Turn
facings to inside again and sew to hem by
hand.
Step 20: SLEEVES WITH PLACKETS Lay
each under sleeve on upper sleeve, right sides
facing. Stitch back sleeve seam, ending at slit
mark and matching seam numbers (8). Tie-off
ends of seam. Baste slit closed. Stitch edges
of self-facings together. Press allowances and
facing toward upper sleeve. Fold each sleeve
lengthwise. Pin front sleeve seam, matching
seam numbers (9). Stitch seam. Press seam
Step 21: SET IN SLEEVES Pin each sleeve to
armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam
mark on sleeve cap must meet the shoulder
seam. The seam marks (10) on sleeve and
jacket front must match. Baste sleeve in place,
easing sleeve cap. Stitch. In the area of the
sleeve cap, press seam allowances toward
sleeve. Try the jacket on and pin raglan
shoulder pads in place. Hand sew shoulder
pads to allowances of shoulder and sleeve
attachment seams. Turn sleeve hem
allowances to inside, press, and sew loosely in
place by hand.

Step 23: ATTACH LINING Pin lining to facing,

right sides together, matching shoulder seams.
Stitch, beginning and ending approx. 10 cm
(4") above hem edge (arrow). On back neck
edge, clip seam allowance of lining. Lay lining
in jacket, wrong sides facing. Press allowances
Step 22: SEW LINING Pin lining backs
toward lining. Pull linings into sleeves. Slide
together, right sides facing. Stitch centre back
lower edge of each sleeve lining up and sew to
seam, ending at slit mark. Stitch as marked to
sleeve hem.
form the ease pleat, ending at seam mark
(arrow). Press pleat toward right back (as
mirror image of jacket). Sew lining. Stitch
sleeve linings, stitching plackets closed. Set
sleeves in lining. Press allowances on lower
edges of lining and sleeve linings to wrong
side.

Step 24: SEW LINING EDGES Pin lining to

facing of underlap. Cut the opposite lining back
horizontally, 1 cm (3/8") below upper slit end,
as illustrated. Then cut straight down and clip
into corner (arrow). Turn lining edges under
and pin in place. Slide lower lining edge up
slightly and sew to hem allowance. Lay extra
length of lining down, in a small fold. Sew lining
to slit facings and front facings. Work
buttonholes as marked. Sew buttons in place,
sewing the small buttons to the upper sleeves.