Fashion Merchandising

Assignment 1

Formal Suits

Submitted by
Kumar Pranjal
Rohan Gireesh
Yashika Negi
HISTORY OF FORMAL SUITS
The word "suit" comes from the French word "surveiller," which means "to follow." In other
words, the jacket follows the pants or the pants follow the jacket. A suit is made up of a
jacket and a pair of pants of the same fabric. Not only is the colour of the clothing identical,
but so is the fabric composition.The origins of the suit, like many parts of classic menswear,
may be traced back to Beau Brummell. In 19th-century England, he was the archetypal
gentleman.
Beau Brummell was a major proponent of the new, less ornate design. While Beau
Brummell's top and bottom clothes didn't exactly match, the overall silhouette and muted
colour scheme lay the framework for the modern suit as we know it today.
Suits 1900-1925 – cracks in the surface

The lounge suit is new clothing in the city in the early 1900s. So far, as a bourgeoisie man,
you've worn a frock coat and a morning coat.
Around 1910, tailor Lars Larsen in Paris invents trousers with open pleats so that the crease
can run sharply to the waistband, and so that there will be a little more room in the pants.

Suits 1925-1940 – soft and roomy style

1919. The Duke of Windsor in Canada. Shorter jacket, 1937. Anthony Eden and diplomat Robert Vansittart (right). Very much the style of the DoW
from the 1920s, though padded shoulders.
 pleated trousers with cuffs.
Oxford bags, which are exceptionally roomy trousers, became quite popular among students
in 1924. The cut was inspired by sailors' trousers. Oxford bags go out of style quickly, but
wide pants last until the 1960s.

Suits in the 1960s – the slim line

Suitmakers abandoned the generous cut in the early 1960s. It's referred to as a
Neo-edwardian fashion change in England, referring to the first ten years of the twentieth
century, before Lars Larsen, The Duke of Windsor, Oxford Bags, Scholte, and others pushed
the suit style in a more roomy direction.

Tight jacket with short lapels and drain pipe pants. Ted Lapidus’ vision of great style in
the 1960s.

Suits 1970-1985 – party & colours

Decoration, swelled edges, tight trousers. The 1970s.

Suits 1985-1995 – mighty men

 Hugo Boss’ infamous power suits from the late 1980s.

The famed "power suits," scions of the 1940s' zoot suit, are born in the latter half of the
1980s. Hugo Boss, in particular, has been a proponent, while Giorgio Armani has also
promoted the large suits.

Suits 1995-2005 – glam & rock

Velvet and glamour and smaller suits. Tom Ford at Gucci in 1995.
Suits 2005-2015 – slimfit

Hedi Slimane at Dior promoting skinny black suits from 2002 onwards.

Suits 2015 and beyond – casualization

Casualization. Hugo Boss and Kenzo on the suit of 2018.

● One button
 ● Narrow shawl collar
● Double-welt pockets
● Chest pocket
● Side vents
● Length: 74cm

Basic Pattern Straight Fit Trousers.

PARTS OF SUIT

Different Types of suits for men:

1. Single Breasted Suit : Single breasted suits have a front closure that is
directly in the middle, with only a small overlap fastened by a single or row of
buttons.
2. Double breasted suit : A double-breasted suit has two columns of buttons
and overlapping front lapels.
3. Peak lapel : The tip of the lapel on a peak lapel peaks upwards and stands
proud from the collar. It is regarded more formal, and it's most often seen on
double-breasted suits.
 4. Notch Lapel : The notched or step lapel is created by sewing the lapel of a
jacket at an angle to the collar of the garment, forming a triangle between the
two.
5. Patch pocket blazer : In a patch pocket blazer, a flat pocket is applied to the
outside of the garment.

BRANDS SELECTED
● BLACKBERRYS
● RAYMOND
● VAN HEUSEN
● ARROW

Selection of Brands (Justification):

The brands which we selected are Blackberry, Raymond, Van Heusen and Arrow.

1. Blackberrys: “NEVER STOP EVOLVING AND PUSHING FURTHER”

Founded in 1991, the Blackberrys formal wear brand in India, owned by Mohan
Clothing Co. Pvt Ltd has 180 company-owned showrooms and 100 franchise stores.
Blackberrys offers the greatest and current style solutions for the Indian guy, from
classic suits, formal shirts, and trousers to jackets, khakis, and denim. It is one of the
leading fashion brands in India and is highly popular among the upper middle and
upper class families because of its premium design formals.The brand is best for
Readymade & Tailored Suits.

2. Raymond: Raymonds has long been the most prestigious suit brand in India. We've
all grown up with Raymond's commercials and seeing how they made a man
'complete.' This is due to the fact that their outfits and textiles are of the highest
possible quality.Raymond's group, led by Gautam Singhania, is a typical example of a
native Indian fashion company that has left a lasting impression on consumers. It is
undoubtedly one of the Top Suit Brands In India for men, with one of the widest
selections of ready-made suits and suit fabrics.The brand is best for Readymade &
Fabric Both

3. Van Heusen: Aditya Birla Fashions Limited, which owns various brands including
Van Heusen through its Madura Fashion & Lifestyle business, is another major
participant in the Indian garment market. Van Heusen suits are ideal for a variety of
occasions, including business and weddings.The brand is best for Readymade suits.
 4. Arrow: Arrow as a suit brand is undoubtedly a premium pick, despite not being as
well-known as the first three names on the list. They are based in the United States
and sell suits fitted with high-quality materials and textiles. They have a premium
appearance in a subtle way, and the look and feel of their fabric will undoubtedly
attract attention from curious women and envious acquaintances.

● Single-Breasted Formal Blazer

➔BRAND - BLACKBERRYS

Product Description
COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCES SIZE RANGE PRICES
 SORIES

Blue and 100% Double 13 34 - 50 7000 - 30000

black Polyester Button buttons,Zip,c
Solid Notch are label,
Lapel Suit brand
label,size
label

➔ BRAND - RAYMOND

Product Description
COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCES SIZE RANGE PRICES
SORIES

BLACK 75% notched five pockets 36 - 46 7000 - 30000

Polyester lapel collar, and a
 and 25% , double-vente
Viscose single-brea d hem
Rayon sted with
double
button
closure,

➔BRAND - VAN HEUSEN

COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCES SIZE PRICES

SORIES RANGE

Black 55% Cotton, Single-breasted A notched 36 - 48 5,099

38% Nylon with a lapel, two
and 7% double-button flap pockets,
Spandex closure, Slim Fit one welt
pocket, and
an attached
lining

➔ BRAND - ARROW
Product Description
COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCESSORIES SIZE RANGE PRICES

Black 100% Single-bre five pockets, 38 - 44 5000

Polyester asted button, and an
formal attached lining
blazer, has with double
a notched vented back hem
lapel, long Comes with lapel
sleeves, pin

● Double Breasted Formal Suit

➔BRAND - BLACKBERRYS
Product Description
COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/A SIZE RANGE PRICES
CCESSOR
IES

Blue and 164%Poly Microstructured Buttons, 34 - 48 10000 -

Grey 34%Viscos , Notch Lapel, 3 Zip,care 28000
e Piece, label,
2%Elastane Multioccasion, brand
Slim Fit Suit label,siz
With B-95 e label
Techno Waist
Trouser
&Amp;Amp;
Reversible W/C
Dobby,Full
Sleeves

➔ BRAND - RAYMOND
Product Description
COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCESSORIES SIZE RANGE PRICES

Grey,Blue, Shell fabric: Notched Three pockets, 36 - 48 7000 - 30000

black 100% cotton lapel, slightly padded
Lining fabric: double-b shoulders, vented
Satin reasted hem, an attached
with lining
double
button
closure

➔BRAND - VAN HEUSEN

COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCESS SIZE PRICES
ORIES RANGE

Charcoal 78% Double-breast Four pockets 36 - 48 10,999

Grey terylene, ed with double on the front,
22% rayon button double vented
closures on the back hem, an
front, Slim Fit attached lining

● PEAK LAPEL

➔BRAND - BLACKBERRYS
Product Description
COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCESS SIZE PRICES
COMPOSITION ORIES RANGE

Navy T/R 73/27 Microstru Buttons,Zip,care 36 - 44 6000 - 29000

blue,Black, cture, label, brand
Grey Peak label,size label,
Lapel, 3 hook
Piece
Slim Fit
Partywear
Suit With
B-95
Trouser
&Amp;
Contrast
Waistcoat

➔ BRAND - RAYMOND
Product Description
COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCESSORIE SIZE PRICES
S RANGE

Navy 55% Peaked 3 pockets, 36 - 48 7000 - 30000

Blue,black polyester, lapel, double-vented
45% wool single-br back hem, and
easted attached lining
with
double-b
utton
closures

➔BRAND - VAN HEUSEN

COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCESS SIZE PRICES
ORIES RANGE

Black Shell: 100% Peak lapel A patch 36 - 46 3,599

polyester collar, double pocket, two
Lining: button flap pockets,
rayon closures on the attached
front lining,
double-vented
back hem

➔ BRAND - ARROW
Product Description
COLOUR FABRIC STYLING TRIMS/ACCESSORIES SIZE RANGE PRICES

Black Shell: 60% Peak Six pockets, a 36 - 50 8000

Polyester, lapel, double-vented
20% Wool, single-br hem, and an
20% Viscose, easted attached inner
Lining: 100% with a lining
Polyester button
closure

COMPARING THE BRANDS

● SIMILARITIES and DIFFERENCES
TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES - The overall trims in all the brands were the same since a
formal suit is very specific in style.
Although compared with the other three brands Blackberrys website had not
mentioned their trims specifically and hence we had to observe the picture and write
down the possible trims and accessories.

PRICE RANGE - Blackberrys prices were comparatively on the higher end. Followed
by Raymonds, which still had a wide range of pricing for different customers. Arrow
and Van Heusen seemed to have the most affordable prices.

COLOURS - Quite Similar colours have been used in each of the brands.

SIZE - Arrow has a wide size range of 36-50, whereas Blackberry, Raymond and Van
Heusen have not much difference in the size range they offer.

AVAILABILITY OF DIFFERENT STYLES OF SUITS - The different types of suits discussed

above were readily available for all brands, except when it came to Double Breasted
Suits, Arrow seemed to not have any that we could find even after a lot of searching.
CITATIONS
● Blackberrys keeps focus on suits, A/W ’16 is all about slim fit | Fashion United
● 16 Types of Suits for Men: A Guide to Men’s Suit Styles | Manofmany
● The Amazing History of The Modern Suit | Sartorial Notes
● History of the Suit: The Evolution of Menswear from 1800 to Today | Gentlemans
Gazette
● Here’s Every Part of a Suit You Need to Know | Esquire
● Men’s Suit Styles: Differences & Types | Suits Expert
● Top 10 Best Suit Brands in India (2022) – For Readymade Suits & Suit Fabrics | MGI