UNDERSTANDING APPAREL QUALITY

JURY TECHPACK- TROUSER

BHAGYA M DINESH

BFT/21/420
 DATE: 23/04/23
BRAND ADOR CATEGORY WOVEN BOTTOMS STYLE NO. S230085 MAIN POLYCOTTON
FABRIC
SEASON SSC23 STYLE WOMEN’S CASUAL FIT STRAIGHT SIZE 8 (SMALL)
TROUSER FIT

:
TECHNICAL SKETCH
 MATERIAL SPECIFICATIONS

1. FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS

Fabric type Woven

Weave/Structure Plain weave
Fibre content Polycotton
GSM 210
EPI 73
PPI 58
Colour/Pantone No. OD344A
Stage of coloration Yarn dyed
Direction Non-directional
COLOUR

2. TRIM SPECIFICATIONS
• Button:

Type 4 hole
Colour/Pantone No. 19-0303 TCX (Jet Black)
Material Plastic
Quantity 1
Size 8.8 ligne
Application areas Waistband/belt
• Interlining:

Type Non-woven fusible interlining

GSM 40
Colour White
Application areas Waistband and fly

• Zipper:

Type Invisible zipper

Material Nylon, plastic teeth
Colour Black
Application areas Front fly
Size 6 inches

• Thread:
Type Spun, 3 ply
Composition Polyester
Colour Dark blue
Ticket no. 80

• Label:
Brand Label Size label Care label
Material Taffeta Taffeta Taffeta
Size 3x5 cm 1x2 cm 3x6 cm
Placement Center back along with size Center back along with Inseam of
label brand label right below
pocket
 Sample
S 75% POLYESTER 25%
COTTON
SIZE
PRUSSIAN BLUE
WASH IN WARM TEMPERATURES

TUMBLE DRY IN LOW HEAT

IRON AT MILD TEMPERATURES

MADE IN INDIA

• Pocket bag:

Fabric Woven cotton

Application areas Inseam pocket and welt bag
GSM 70
COLOUR Black
MEASUREMENT SPECIFICATIONS
A
B
J
C
F K
D
M L

FRONT BACK
NO. DESCRIPTION MEASUREMENTS TOLERANCE
Waist 25 in -
Low waist 29 in -
Hips 34.6 in -
A Waist band length 25in -
B Waist band width 1.5 in + 0.5
C Pocket length 5 in +_0.5
D Box pleat Length: 3 in -
Width: 2.5 in
E J- piece 8.5 in + _1
F Loop length 2.5 in +_0.25
G Trouser length 41 in -
H Trouser leg width 20in -
I Bottom hem width 1 in +_0.25
J Loop width 1 cm -
K Back dart length 4 in -
L Welt pocket Length:5 -
Width:1.5 cm
M Body rise 26.6 -
SEAM AND STITCH DETAILS
Operation Stitch Details
Waistband

Attaching of front and back panels Superimposed press open seam

Bottom hemming

Button hole

Button sew

Bartacking
 Serging panels

OPERATION BREAKDOWN

No. Operation Machine Used

1 Serge front panels 3T overlock
2 Serge back panels 3T overlock
3 Serge right fly 3T overlock
4 Serge back rise 3T overlock
5 Serge front rise 3T overlock
6 Serge inseam pocket fabric - 4 3T overlock
7 Make box pleats on both the right and leftthe SNLS
of front panel
8 Make back darts of both side of back panels SNLS
9 Attach pocket bag with front panel (Inseam SNLS
pocket)
10 Pocket bag topstitch SNLS
11 Attach left fly with front rise SNLS
12 Attach right fly and zipper SNLS
13 Close zipper with left ply SNLS
14 J stitch SNLS
15 Join the front rise SNLS
16 Attach the welt pocket on the right back SNLS
panel
17 Join back rise SNLS
18 Join side seam SNLS
19 Join inseam SNLS
20 Waistband fusing Fusing machine/iron
21 Waistband attaching SNLS
22 Loop tacking on the body Bar tacking machine

23 Bottom hemming SNLS

24 Button attaching Button sew machine
 25 Buttonhole making Button hole machine

FOLDING
PACKAGING DETAILS
Polybag: Not Required
Form flat
Cardboard no
Quantity per packet 10 (bulk packaging)
Plastic bag 30 microns, polypropylene, clear
BAG DIMENSION 40 X 30 cm
*Carton label must contain the brand name, style#, carton destination, no. of pieces per carton

CRITICAL POINTS OF INSPECTION & QUALITY CONTROL

TESTING
FABRIC
• Mechanical
− Tear Strength
− Pilling Test
− Water Absorbency
− Flammability

• Chemical
− Moisture Content
− Shrinkage to Water
− Colour Fastness Tests
INSPECTION
1. TRIMS INSPECTION
• 10% of trims to be inspected
• Colour of the trims must match the main fabric
• Button Diameter Allowed – 2cm.
• Defected/ broken button to be rejected
• Zipper without any defect. Any defective/ broken zipper is to be rejected.
• Fusing strike back, strikethrough – No tolerance
• Air bubbles in fusing – 5% allowed
• Labels should be properly printed and checked

2. FABRIC INSPECTION
• 10% of Rolls to be inspected
• Fabric Inspection to be done by 4-Point System, with 40 points as an acceptable range for each roll.
• If not accepted rolls exceed 50% of the total inspected rolls, the lot is to be rejected.
• Point Ratings for fabric inspection:
o 0 to 3″ defects = 1 point
o Over3″ to 6″ defects = 2 points
o Over3″ to 9″ defects = 3 points
o Over 9″ defects = 4 points
Holes and opening
o 1 inch or less = 2 points
o Over 1 inch = 4 points

3. SPREADING & CUTTING

• Check that the marker is aligned with the selvage and along the grainline.
• Correct tension in the ply.
• Notches mismatching – ± 1/8” allowed
• Proper direction of spreading
• Frayed edges

4. SEWING (100% Inspection)

• No raw edges allowed
• Wrong pocket stitching (No tolerance)
• Unaligned front pockets (Maximum Tolerance_ – 0.5cm)
• Exposed zipper (No tolerance)
• Uneven fly width
• Uneven waistband
• Missing belt loop
• Wrong or improper position of belt loop (Maximum Tolerance – 1/8”)
• Loose threads
• Raw edge out (No tolerance)
• Uneven topstitch
• Puckering
• Overstitch, broken stitch, skip stitch
• Label displace (No tolerance)

5. FINISHING (100% Inspection)

• Garment should be properly ironed
• Broken stitch
• Skip stitch
• Oil / Dirt, stains, and spots are not allowed
• Raw edge out
 • Size mistake
• Damage

6. FINAL INSPECTION (100% Inspection)

GARMENT DEFECTS: (No tolerance)
• Broken stitches
• Skipped stitches
• Wavy stitching
• Wrong stitch tension
• Uneven stitch density
• Open seam
• Puckered seam
• Stains, spots, dirt/oil
• Size
• Raw edge

CRITICAL DEFECTS
• Missing brand, care label
• Style not matching the approved sample
• Size difference
• Damaged (holes, scratches)

MAJOR DEFECTS
• Mismatch of the wrong and right sides of the fabric
• Unmatched seam
 • Excessive tightness or fullness of pocket
• Poorly shaped pocket corner
• Poor ironing
• Stretched shape due to pressing
• Crotch area not properly stitched
• J piece not finished
• Loose components (buttons, loops)
MINOR DEFECTS
• Slight shade variation