PROTO TECH PACK

Of
HALF SLEEVE SHIRT
FASHION MERCHANDISING
ASSIGNMENT 1

Submitted to: Submitted by:

Mr. J . Pari Aakanksha Chourasia (01)

Date: 26.09.2018 Ahana Das(03)

MEN’S CASUAL HALF SLEEVE SHIRT

Style no. : #123 Tech designer: Luisa

Product type: HALF SLEEVE SHIRT Garment designer :
Ted
Product status: Final for Buyer: Arrow
production
Sourcing office: India Collection: Autumn
Winter 2019
Vendor: ABC Company Fit : Regular
No. of pieces : 90000 MC Status: Finalized
Colour mix ratio: yellow : blue UOM: inches
1: 1

Sizes( in cm) and their ratio: Base size: 42

40: 42: 44: 46
1: 2: 2: 1

SECTIONS INCLUDED

SECTION NAME SECTION STATUS MODIFIED DATE

Sketches and pictures Adopted 8th August 2018
BOM Adopted 8th August 2018
Measurement chart Adopted 23rd August 2018
Measurement guide for shirt Adopted 23rd August 2018
Graded measurement chart Adopted 23rd August 2018
Quality checkpoints all sizes Adopted 18th August 2018
Cutting ,Fusing & stitching Adopted 19th August 2018
instructions
Operation Breakdown of shirt Adopted 20th August 2018
GSS In review 29th August 2018
Packaging , testing and wash In review 29th August 2018
care details
Cost sheet In review 30th August 2018
 BILL OF MATERIALS

SR COMPONENT NAME CONTENT OF DESCRIPTION SUPPLIER QUANTITY USUAGE

NO. THE FOR A
COMPONENT SHIRT OF
BASE SIZE
FABRIC
1. Shell Fabric 100% cotton Cotton 100% Jayashree Red: 2.5m To make
[Poplin fabric] Weave: 1/1 Textiles Yellow: the panels,
Plain 2.25m pocket,
Warp: Blue sleeves,
Weft: 1st yoke and
pick blue 2nd plackets.
pick white.

Powerloom
produced
fabric.

(Similar for
yellow also)
GSM :115
Width : 44”
Epi :154 Blue:
Ppi : 78 2.25m
Tpi: 2.5
Yarn Dyed
Count : 50s
Colour:
Yellow , Blue
Fabric roll
length :
200m
2. Fusing Polyethylene Fusible Jhanji 0.35m
coated temperature: Textile Inside collar
interlining 120°C pvt ltd fall and
collar stand.
Fabric
structure:
Non woven
TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES
3. Button Diameter: 16 Anand 7+1
Ligne Buttons 7 attached
Plastic: ltd on the right
Transparent 4 holes panel and 1
is given
extra.
4. Brand Label Polyester The fabric is 1 piece Stitched on
woven and 4 sides on
 BILL OF MATERIALS

the brand the yoke

name is 2.5cm
embroidered below the
on it. collar stand.
4cmX 2cm

5. Size tag Polyester The fabric is 1 piece Placed 4.5

woven and right from
size is the center
embroidered and
on it. stitched
1cm X 1cm between
The size is collar
mentioned stand and
in inches yoke.
and
centimeters.
6. Fit tag Polyester The fabric is 1 piece Stitched on
woven with 2 sides on
“Regular fit” the collar
embroidered stand 1 cm
on it below
4cmX from top at
0.75cm the center.
7. Wash care and content Polyester The fabric is 1 piece Inner side
label woven. The of right
fabric panel with
content and the placket
was h 10cm
instructions above the
are printed hem
on it.
3.5cmX 3cm

8. Style number tag Polyester The fabric is 1 piece Inner side

woven with of right
the style panel with
number the placket
printed on 10cm
it. above the
3.5cmX 3cm hem with
the wash
care tag.
 BILL OF MATERIALS

9. Sewing thread Polyester 2 Ply Threads 44.06m Sew all the

Light blue India ltd components
of the shirts
together.
10. Embroidery thread Polyester 2 Ply Thread 2m To make the
Light blue logo “A”
which
represents
the brand
on the right
sleeve.
PACKAGING ITEMS
11. Plastic Collar Butterfly Plastic 1 piece To support
transparent the collar in
the front.

12. Plastic Collar bone Plastic To support

transparent and give
shape to the
collar stand.

13. Cardboard collar stand White 1 piece To give

bone. cardboard support to
collar from
behind
14. Back support cardboard White 1 piece To give an
sheet cardboard over all
support.
15. Shirt packing paper Tracing 1 piece Covers the
paper cardboard
sheet.
 BILL OF MATERIALS

16. Metallic clip Stainless 1 piece To attach

clip the sleeve.

17. Plastic clip Plastic 1 piece To attach

the panels
with the
cardboard

18. Brand tag Cardboard Contains the 1 piece Placed on

brand name the center
and size of collar
stand from
outside

19. Price and RFID tag Hard paper Contains Price, 1 piece Hanged
manufacturer’s from the
name and button hole.
address .

20. Loop string Plastic Holds the

price tag.
 CUTTING AND FUSING INSTRUCTIONS

COMPONENTS OF A SHIRT NO. OF PATTERNS REQUIRED PER SHIRT

Right panel 1
Left panel 1
French placket 1
Sleeve 2
Yoke 2
Collar stand 2
Collar fall 2
Patch pocket 1

Grading is done according to the measurements given.

2 Markers are made Marker A of sizes 40 and 44 Marker B of sizes 42 and 46

Length of marker A 4.50 Length of marker B is 4.55
meters meters
Width of marker A is 44 Width of marker B is 44
inches inches

The marker mode is : NAP UP AND DOWN

The spreading mode is : NAP UP AND DOWN & FACE ONE WAY
All the patterns should be placed maintaining the grainline.

Cutting is to be done in GERBER CUTTING MACHINE.

Fusible interlining is cut for : Collar stand
Collar fall
French placket

Stitch per inch for SNLS should be 14.

 OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF SHIRT

Collar Front Back Front left Right Left

preparation Right sleeve sleeve

Join fall & Pocket Join yoke Placket Embroidery

stand stitch stitch

2 3 5 7
1

Placket
stitch

6 Join shoulder

8 Attach sleeve at armhole

9 Stitch side seam

Join collar
10

Hem sleeve Bottom

Button hole
hem

11 12 13 14
Button attach
 GARMENT SPECIFICATION SHEET

SR OPERATION SEAM TYPE SEAM DIAGRAM STITCH MACHINE NEEDLE

No. TYPE TYPE SYSTEM
1. Collar fall Superimpose 301 SNLS DB X1
preparation Seam
(SSx)
2. Collar stand SSx and EFa 301 SNLS DB X1
preparation

3. Collar fall Bound 301 SNLS DB X1

and Stand Seam(BSj)
attach
4. Yoke Lap Seam 301 SNLS DB X1
attaching (LSf)
with back
panel with
one box
pleat at
center
5. Pocket hem Edge 301 SNLS DB X1
Finishing
(EFb)

6. Attach Superimpose 301 SNLS DB X1

pocket with Seam (SSb)
left panel
7. Right Edge 301 SNLS DB X1
panel’s Finishing
placket (EFb)
stitching
8. Left panel’s Lap Seam 401 Feed off TV X64
Placket (LSk) the arm
stitching(
French
Placket)

9. Attaching Lap Seam 301 SNLS DB X1

Back panel (LScf)
with front
at the
shoulders.
 GARMENT SPECIFICATION SHEET

SR OPERATION SEAM TYPE SEAM DIAGRAM STITCH MACHINE NEEDLE

NO. CLASS SYSTEM
10. Embroidery 9 Heads
on right embroidery
sleeve machine
11 Sleeve Superimpose 301 SNLS DB X1
attachment Seam (SSw)
at armhole
12. Side seam Lap Seam 401 Feed off TV X64
(LSae) the arm (2
needles)
13. Sleeve Hem Edge 301 SNLS DB X1
Finishing
(EFb)

14. Bottom Edge 301 SNLS DB X1

Hem Finishing
(EFb)

15. Button 101 Button

Attaching Attaching
machine
16. Button Hole 404 Eyelet TV X 7
Button
hole
sewing
machine

STICH CLASS STITCH DIAGRAM

301

401
 PACKAGING ,WASH CARE AND TESTING DETAILS

CARE SYMBOLS TO BE USED

Do not Wring Do not bleach Tumble dry low. Machine wash Use warm steam iron . Do
Do not dry in cold gentle cycle not iron on prints or
sunlight wash dark colors embellishments.
separately. Wash
and dry inside
out.

PACKAGING INSTRUCTIONS

The shirts are folded in VIET 3610 machine using the back support cardboard and a tracing paper.
The plastic collar bone, the plastic collar butterfly and the cardboard collar stand are also fixed.
After packing it should look like this

The shirts are further packed in a carton containing 20 pcs in one carton of a particular shade and color.
Therefore 750 and 1500 cartons of sizes 40,46 and 42,44 respectively

TESTING
Seam slippage test
Seam tear strength
Check for stitch defects.
Garment package testing
 SKETCHES AND PICTURES

PICTURE OF SHIRT FRONT PICTURE OF SHIRT BACK

 COST SHEET

Cost Per shirt(as per base size)

SR NO. CONTENT QUANTITY PER RATE PER UNIT(in COST(in rupees)
SHIRT rupees)
1. Shell fabric 2.25m 70/m 157.50
2. Fusing 0.35m 25/m 8.75
3. Buttons 8 pcs 0.25 /pc 2
4. Sewing Thread 44.06 m 1/100m 0.44
5. Embroidery thread 2m 15/100m 0.30
6. Tags 7pcs 2/ 7pcs 2
7. Plastic Packaging 2 pcs 1/pc 2
items
8. Cardboard 2pcs 1/pc 2
packaging items
9. Loop string 1pc 0.10/pc 0.10
10. Plastic clip 1pc 0.10/pc 0.10
11. Metallic clip 1pc 0.15/pc 0.15
TOTAL 175.32

COST OF RAW MATERIALS FOR THE ENTIRE ORDER

SR NO. CONTENT EXTRA QUANTITY FOR AMOUNT
PURCHASE ENTIRE ORDER (in rupees)
1. Shell Fabric (blue) 5% 106312.5m 7441875
2. Shell Fabric 5% 106312.5m 7441875
(yellow)
3. Fusing 3% 32395m 809875
4. Sewing thread 3% 4084362m 40843.62
5. Embroidery 2% 204000m 30600
thread
6. Tags 1% 707000pcs 202000
7. Plastic packaging 1% 181800pcs 181800
items
8. Cardboard 1% 181800pcs 181800
Packaging items
9. Loop String 1% 90900pcs 9090
10. Plastic clip 1% 90900pcs 9090
11. Metallic clip 1% 90900pcs 9090
12. Buttons 3% 741600pcs 185400
13. Cartons 0% 4500pcs 13500
14. Cutting Cost 270000
15. Marker making 90000
TOTAL 15882300
 MEASUREMENT GUIDE FOR THE SHIRT

Measurement guides for collar stand , placket and collar fall.

 MEASUREMENT GUIDE FOR THE SHIRT

Primary measurement for a shirt is “neck circumference” = 16.5” for size 42.
 BASE MEASUREMENT CHART

POM Part name Measurement (in inches) Tolerance (in inches) (+,-)

AC1 Across chest 23 1/4

FLF Full length (front) 31.5 1/8

FLB Full length (back) 30 1/8

SL Sleeves Length 10 1/8

SW Sleeve Width 7.5 1/8

SHW Sleeve hem 1 1/8

AHD Armhole depth 9.5 1/4

CFTP Centre front to placket 0.75 1/8

PL1 Placket length 27 1/8

PW2 Placket width 1.25 1/8

PL2 Pocket length 5.5 1/8

HSP-SHw1 HSP to shoulder tip 6 1/8

AC13 Across shoulder 18.5 18

PW4 Pocket width 5.25 1/4

CLC15 Collar circumference 16.5 1/8

CBL16 Centre back length 29.5 1/4

NC10 Neck circumference 17.32 1/8

BPN Button placement (1st from 0.5 0

neck)

BPD5 Button placement (distance) 3.5 0

BHW Button hole width 0.75 0

CSW9 Collar stand Height 1.5 1/8

BYWL Back yoke width 3.5 1/8

YPW6 Yoke pleat width 1.25 0

TNOB7 Total no. of buttons 7+1 0

BH10 Bottom hem 0.25 1/8

 GRADED MEASUREMENT CHART

Measurement name Size (inch) Size(inch) Size(inch) Size(inch)

40 (L) 42(XL) 44(2XL) 46(3XL)

Across chest 21 23 25 27

Full length (front) 31 31.5 32 32.5

Full length (back) 29.5 30 30.5 31

Sleeves Length 9.75 10 10.5 10.75

Sleeve Width 7,25 7.5 7.75 8

Sleeve hem width 1 1 1 1

Armhole depth 9.25 9.5 9.5 9.75

Centre front to placket 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75

Placket length 26.5 27 27.5 28

Placket width 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25

Pocket length 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5

HSP to shoulder tip 5.75 6 6.25 6.5

Across shoulder 17.75 18.5 18.75 19

Pocket width 5.25 5.25 5.25 5.25

Collar circumference 16 16.5 16.75 17

Centre back length 29.25 29.5 29.75 30

Neck circumference 17-17.5 17.5-18 18-18.5 19-19.5

Button placement (1st 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

from neck)

Button placement ( 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5

distance)
Button hole width 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75

Collar stand width 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

Back yoke width 3.25 3.5 3.5 3.75

Yoke pleat width 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25

Total no. of buttons 7+1 7+1 7+1 7+1

Bottom hem 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25

 QUALITY CHECKPOINTS FOR THE SHIRT

S. NO. QUALITY CHECK POINTS COMMENTS

1. Shoulder Width MEASUREMENT AS PER THE SPECSHEET

2. Sleeve Length MEASUREMENT AS PER THE SPECSHEET

3. Front Armhole Along Curve MATCHING WITH THE FRONT SLVEEVE

4. Sleeve width MEASUREMENT AS PER THE SPECSHEET

5. Placket width MEASUREMENT AS PER THE SPECSHEET

6. Hem height SHOULD BE 1 INCH THROUGHOUT THE SHIRT

7. Collar Point FALL ARE MATCHING AT THE SAME POINT

8. Chest 1" Below Armhole IN BOTH SIDE

9. Neck Width Seam to Seam EQUAL FROM BOTH SIDE OF THE SEAM

10. Shoulder slope MEASUREMENT AS PER THE SPECSHEET

REFERENCES:

• http://clothingmerchandising.blogspot.com/2013/08/machine-wise-sewing-thread-
consumption.html
• https://www.slideshare.net/rajeevsharan/shirt-spec-sheet