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Attitudes Toward Gender Roles, Self-esteem, and Body Image: Application of a


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Article  in  Clothing and Textiles Research Journal · September 1999


DOI: 10.1177/0887302X9901700403

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Attitudes Toward
Gender Roles, Self-esteem, and Body Image:
Application of a Model

Sharron J. Lennon
Nancy A. Rudd
Bridgette Sloan
Jae Sook Kim

Abstract
The Rudd and Lennon (1994) model of body aesthetics is used in this research to guide research investigating
relationships among body image, attitudes toward gender roles, and self-esteem. Questionnaires were completed
by 202 Korean college women, 52 Singaporean college women, 171 African-American college women, and 109
Caucasian-American college women. Significant differences were found among the groups on gender ideology,
self-esteem, and the body image variables. African-American college women had the highest self-esteem and ap-
pearance evaluation scores. More importantly, however, across all groups high self-esteem was associated with
positive body images and non-traditional attitudes toward gender roles. Additionally, social group membership and
individualism were related to body image. Results are explained within the context of the Rudd and Lennon (1994)
model of body aesthetics and suggestions are offered for future research within that context.

Lennon, S. J., Rudd, N. A., Sloan, B., & Kim, J. S. (1999). Attitudes toward gender roles, self-esteem, and body
image: Application of a model. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 17(4), 191-202. Key Words: body image,
appearance management, body aesthetics, gender ideology.

It is a cultural universal that people clothe, adorn, shape, Indeed, recent research (Martz, Handley, & Eisler, 1995)
and decorate their bodies to create an appearance to present suggests that stress associated with conforming to feminine
to others. Cultural factors, such as values of femininity, gender role expectations “may be the missing link between
affect how people evaluate their own and others’ appear- cultural values of femininity and vulnerability for eating
ances. For example, in western societies women are ex- disorders” (p. 493). Although this expectation for thinness
pected to be interested in fashion and beauty, a significant in women is pervasive in the U.S. in the 1990s among ado-
component of which, at least for young women and girls, is lescents and pre-adolescents (Rudd & Lennon, 1995), it may
a thin body (e.g., Beuf, 1990; Cash, Winstead, & Janda, 1986; not be relevant to women from non-western cultures.
Freedman, 1986; Lennon, 1988; Seid, 1994). Such an ex- Personal factors also affect how individuals evaluate
pectation can be a precursor to unhealthy behaviors. their own and others’ appearances. For example, some
authors have found that individual levels of self-esteem
To females’ detriment, the cultural fixation on their (Lennon & Rudd, 1994) and attitudes toward gender roles
bodies as objects results in a standard of the femi- (Dionne, Davis, Fox, & Gurevich, 1995) are related to evalu-
nine ideal that is not only extremely salient, but also ations of one’s own appearance or body image. The pur-
virtually impossible to attain (Franzoi, 1995, p. 420). pose of this research was threefold: (a) to examine the extent
to which relationships exist among self-esteem, body im-
age, and attitudes toward gender roles across a variety of
different groups of individuals, (b) to examine meaningful
Author’s Addresses: Sharron J. Lennon, email: lennon.2@osu.edu,
Nancy A. Rudd and Bridgette Sloan, Department of Consumer and differences among the groups, and (c) to suggest variables
Textile Sciences, Ohio State University, Columbus, OH 43210-1295 which are implicated in the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model
and Jae Sook Kim, Clothing and Textiles Department, Chungnam Uni- of body aesthetics.
versity, Taejion 305-764, South Korea.

© International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005 Volume 17 #4 1999 191


even when the evaluations are negative. However, when
Theoretical Framework given the opportunity participants may construct a down-
ward comparison target (Wood, 1989), presumably to in-
crease positive affect, including self-esteem.
Rudd and Lennon (1994) developed a model of indi- Social identity theory. Social identity theory (Tajfel,
vidual responses to aesthetic ideals of human appearance. 1981; Tajfel & Turner, 1979) was developed to explain why
Central to this model is self-esteem thought “to motivate people who are separated into groups automatically evalu-
appearance-management behaviors” (p. 164) through which ate in-group members as “better” than out-group members.
appearances are created and re-created in an effort “to ap- The theory assumes that people are motivated to maintain a
proximate the cultural aesthetic ideal” (p. 164). In addi- positive self-image and that both personal and social iden-
tion, according to this model, self-esteem can result from tity contribute to self-image. From this perspective, social
appearance-management behaviors. Rudd and Lennon’s identity emanates from group memberships (e.g., ethnicity,
(1994) model is based on social comparison theory sorority or team memberships), whereas personal identity
(Festinger, 1954) and social identity theory (Tajfel, 1981; stems from individual accomplishments (e.g., Olympic
Tajfel & Turner, 1979). In this section social comparison medal winner, success in graduate school, a rewarding per-
theory, social identity theory, and Rudd and Lennon’s (1994) sonal relationship, beauty contest winner). According to
model will be discussed. the theory an improvement in either personal or social iden-
Social comparison theory. Festinger (1954) believed tity will lead to an improvement in self-image. Social com-
that people have a need for self-evaluation, to know how parison is implicated in the evaluation of both personal and
they stand relative to some standard. He hypothesized that social identities; such evaluation may involve comparison
people compare themselves to some objective standard or, on the basis of appearance. For example, people often at-
if none exists, to compare themselves to others. In addi- tribute social identity (i.e., group membership) related to sex,
tion, Festinger thought people were likely to compare them- age, and ethnicity on the basis of appearance.
selves to similar others, a comparison which would pro- Rudd and Lennon’s Model. This model (see Figure 1)
vide meaningful information (Goethals & Darley, 1977). was proposed to “explain individual response to the cultural
Although the theory was originally developed to apply to aesthetic ideal as it relates to appearance” (1994, p. 163)
opinion and ability evaluation, it has been applied to a variety and it extends social identity theory for that purpose. The
of situations including evaluations of health (Wood, Tay- model assumes that the primary appearance ideal of any
lor, & Lichtman, 1985) and evaluations of appearance culture, especially in the U.S., is internalized as the aesthetic
(Richins, 1991). standard people use to create their appearances and with
Richins (1991) found that participants evaluated their own which people compare their created appearances. Social
appearances more negatively if they had first been exposed comparison processes figure centrally in the model because
to idealized advertising images of female models. As a result they are invoked in self- and other evaluations. Self-esteem
of the experimental manipulation, these participants made is maintained or elevated when self-evaluations or evalua-
upward comparisons, in which they were likely to perceive tions from others indicate that one’s appearance closely
themselves as having less of a desired characteristic than approximates the appearance ideal. Such evaluations also
the comparison target. In the context of applying for a part- contribute to positive social and personal identity.
time job as an assistant in personality research, Morse and However, when self- or others’ evaluations of appear-
Gergen’s (1970) participants were casually exposed to a ance are negative, the individual is motivated to engage in
comparison target who was either neatly groomed and orga- one of several coping strategies that involve creating and
nized (“better off” in terms of appearance) or poorly groomed re-creating one’s appearance to more closely approximate
and disorganized (“worse off” in terms of appearance). This the aesthetic ideal. As a result, self-esteem may be tenuous
manipulation resulted in upward comparisons and lower self- depending on the success of the coping strategy in approxi-
esteem for one group and downward comparisons and higher mating the aesthetic ideal, thus affecting and possibly being
self-esteem for the other group, respectively. affected by both social and personal identity.
Using a non-experimental strategy, Wood et al. (1985)
interviewed cancer victims. Although social comparisons
were not manipulated, participants often self-generated
downward comparisons in which they were likely to per- Relevant Literature
ceive themselves as better off than the comparison target.
For example, a woman having had a single mastectomy might
indicate that she was lucky that she did not need a double Three personal or individual variables which are rel-
mastectomy like her hospital roommate. In fact, when down- evant to the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model are self-es-
ward comparison targets did not exist, these participants often teem, attitudes toward gender roles, and body image. These
created comparisons for themselves with fictitious persons. variables are also affected by socio-cultural factors such as
For example, a woman having had a double mastectomy individualism and social group membership (social identity)
might indicate that she was fortunate because her husband which are also important in the Rudd and Lennon model. In
had remained loyal and faithful, not like “other women’s the next section these variables will be reviewed and their
husbands” who left their wives after such surgeries. These relevance to the model will be outlined.
studies and others (Martin & Kennedy, 1993; Stice & Shaw, Self-esteem. Self-esteem is usually viewed as one’s
1994) reveal that people do compare themselves to others, overall feeling of self-worth and is thought to be relatively

192 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal © International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005
Figure 1. Model of the effects of social comparison on the construction and evaluation
of appearance (Rudd & Lennon, 1994, p. 165).

constant over time and situations1 (Baron & Byrne, 1991; concern with appearance (Brownmiller, 1984; Freedman,
Rosenberg, 1965; 1979); however, it can fluctuate some- 1988; Rodin, Silberstein, & Striegel-Moore, 1985). Indeed,
what due to external events (Baron & Byrne, 1991). Self- researchers (Timko, Striegel-Moore, Silberstein, & Rodin,
esteem has been found to be positively related to attractive- 1987) have found that among young women self-ratings of
ness (Mathes & Kahn, 1975; O’Grady, 1989) and body femininity are positively related to self-ratings of the im-
satisfaction (Lennon & Rudd, 1994; Lerner, Orlos, & portance of appearance. This finding suggests that an at-
Knapp, 1976; Simmons & Rosenberg, 1975; Striegel- tractive appearance is likely to be more important to women
Moore, Silberstein, & Rodin, 1986) in women. For example, who hold traditional attitudes toward gender roles than to
Lennon and Rudd (1994) found that among college women, women who hold non-traditional attitudes (Freedman, 1984;
8% of the variance in self-esteem was due to body satisfac- 1986; Hatfield & Sprecher, 1986).
tion. In the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model, low self-es- Research shows that among women, an attractive ap-
teem may be a motivator of appearance-management be- pearance and self-esteem are positively related (Mathes &
haviors. If such behaviors are successful in approximating Kahn, 1975; O’Grady, 1989). Thus, because women with
the cultural ideal, higher self-esteem can result, thus rein- traditional attitudes toward gender roles (traditional women)
forcing such behaviors. place more importance on an attractive appearance than non-
Attitudes toward gender roles. Gender is a socially traditional women (Timko, Striegel-Moore, Silberstein, &
constructed concept that outlines guidelines (i.e., gender Rodin, 1987), traditional women’s attention to and mainte-
roles) for behaviors considered appropriate for men and nance of their attractiveness may also be an important facet
women. We argue that attitudes toward gender roles are of their self worth. For traditional women, self-esteem may
relevant to the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model because such be related to appearance-management behaviors, such as
attitudes may affect the extent to which women attend to cosmetic use, exercise regimens, food monitoring, and cloth-
and place importance on appearance. For example, tradi- ing selection. In other words, it is reasonable to expect that
tional gender roles associate femininity with beauty and for traditional women self-esteem will be related to the extent
to which importance is placed on and attention is given to
maintaining attractive appearances.
Body image. Body image is the mental image we have
1
Self-concept is often defined as the global perception of who we are of our bodies (Fallon, 1990); it is perceptual in that it re-
(Baron & Byrne, 1991) or as our self-identity, whereas self-esteem is flects our perceptions of our bodies and it is affective in that
how we feel about who we are. Rather than thinking of the self-con- it reflects how we feel about those perceptions. The topic
cept as static and unchanging there is recent evidence (Markus & Nurius, of body image has recently been addressed in the research
1986), consistent with the work of other scholars (Cooley, 1902; Mead,
1934), that one’s self-concept is in a state of becoming (i.e., it is open literature (e.g., Brown, Cash, & Lewis, 1989; Dionne, Davis,
to change based on new experiences and feedback from others). Fox, & Gurevich, 1995; Lennon & Rudd, 1994; Martz,

© International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005 Volume 17 #4 1999 193


Handley, & Eisler, 1995; Pike & Rodin, 1991; Striegel- 1991; Rucker & Cash, 1992) and are likely to have higher
Moore & Kearney-Cooke, 1994), in scholarly books (e.g., self-esteem (Akan & Grilo, 1995) even if they weigh more
Cash & Pruzinsky, 1990; Fallon, Katzman, & Wooley, 1994; than Caucasian-American women. According to the Rudd
Freedman, 1986; 1988; Pipher, 1994; Rodin, 1992; Thomp- and Lennon (1994) model these findings suggest that Afri-
son, 1996) and reviews (e.g., Rudd & Lennon, 1995; Seid, can-American women may not rely on the dominant cul-
1994), and in the popular press (e.g., Goodman, 1995; Ryan, tural aesthetic standard to which to compare and may be
1995). Body image also figures centrally in the Rudd and relying on an in-group standard.
Lennon (1994) model because the model was developed to Social group membership is relevant to the Rudd and
explain body aesthetics. As individuals compare their ap- Lennon (1994) model because values associated with social
pearances to others, the outcome of those comparisons in- group membership may affect the coping strategy selected
fluences feelings, perceptions of self-attractiveness, and body as people attempt to recreate their appearances to approxi-
image. For example, Stice and Shaw (1994) found that as mate the cultural ideal. This idea is reasonable given that
compared to participants who were exposed to thin models, social identity theory posits that in-group members are evalu-
those exposed to large-sized models (from a magazine for ated as better than out-group members. In terms of com-
large-sized women) were happier, more confident, less de- parison standards, comparison to an in-group member would
pressed, less shameful, less guilty, and less dissatisfied with provide a more similar comparison target and, therefore,
their bodies. more information. Examples of social groups related to
Body image may be related to attitudes toward gender appearance are certain occupational groups, age groups, and
roles or subscription to non-traditional roles (Freedman, ethnic groups.
1984; Striegel-Moore, Silberstein, & Rodin, 1986). Jack- Individualism. Individualism is a socio-cultural con-
son, Sullivan, and Rostker (1988) found that cultural stan- struct which can be used to classify cultures (e.g., Triandis,
dards of appearance were more likely to influence both men 1989; Triandis, Bontempo, Villareal, Asai, & Lucca, 1988).
and women with traditional as opposed to non-traditional In individualist societies, such as the U.S. and most western
attitudes toward gender roles. This suggests that women countries, people are generally rewarded for being indepen-
with non-traditional attitudes toward gender roles may be dent, self-disciplined, competitive, and in control of their
more satisfied with their bodies. destinies (Hofstede, 1980), which includes the active con-
Lennon and Rudd (1994), however, found no effect for trol of their bodily appearances (Thompson & Hirschman,
attitudes toward gender roles on body satisfaction. Never- 1995). These are characteristics also associated with thin-
theless, other researchers have reported such relationships ness (Nasser, 1987) in western cultures. Thus, in individu-
(Dionne, Davis, Fox, & Gurevich, 1995; Martz, Handley, & alist societies it may be adaptive to assume a controlling and
Eisler, 1995; Franzoi, 1995), using different measures of (a) active role in the creation of appearances and a high degree
body image and (b) attitudes toward gender roles. For ex- of importance and attention may be focused on it.
ample, Dionne, Davis, Fox, and Gurevich (1995) found a However, in less individualistic societies (collectivist
positive relationship between body image and non-traditional societies), such as Korea (Hofstede, 1983), Singapore
attitudes toward gender roles as they relate to physical ap- (Hofstede, 1980) and many non-western countries (Hofstede,
pearance. Franzoi (1995) found that women’s possession 1980), people are generally rewarded for cooperating and
of instrumental traits (e.g., muscular strength, reflexes, or providing social support, behaviors that involve subordinat-
coordination), often used as indicators of masculinity, were ing personal goals to group goals (Triandis et al., 1988).
positively associated with attitudes toward what their bod- Identities are likely to be based on one’s social position,
ies looked like (i.e., body-as-object). In these studies, non- family, and group memberships (Dion, 1986; Hofstede,
traditional women tended to be more satisfied with the ap- 1980). In this context, a particularly attractive appearance
pearance of their bodies. may be distinctive and, therefore, may draw attention to the
Social groups. In America, society is “segmented by individual with the attractive appearance rather than to the
factors such as reference group affiliations, urban-rural ori- group. Because attracting attention to oneself may be seen
entation, age, class, purchasing power, education, ethnicity, as immodest and inappropriate in collective cultures, the
and any or all of the above in combination” (Hamilton, 1993, “evaluation of others based on physical attractiveness might
p. 55). In these contexts, expectations to achieve an appear- be dysfunctional” (Dion, 1986, p. 14) in such contexts. Thus,
ance which approximates the cultural ideal may be modi- in collectivist cultures there may be less importance attrib-
fied. For example, in one study (Rand & Kuldau, 1990) uted to and less attention given to the active creation of
Caucasian-American women who were satisfied with their distinctive appearances.
weights were significantly less heavy than African-Ameri- Degree of individualism characterizing a society may
can women who were satisfied with their weights. In an- be relevant to the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model because
other study (Cash & Henry, 1995) although actual weights individualism may be related to the extent to which people
were not measured, African-American women gave higher socially compare themselves to others (Markus & Kitayama,
ratings to their appearances, were more satisfied with their 1991). Researchers (Martin & Kennedy, 1994; Wood, 1989)
bodies, and yet were less preoccupied with their weights have outlined three motives for social comparison in the U.S:
than either Caucasian-American or Hispanic-American self-enhancement, self-improvement, and information-seek-
women. Furthermore, as compared to Caucasian-American ing. In individualist societies people make downward com-
women, African-American women tend to be more satis- parisons for purposes of self-enhancement (i.e., to feel bet-
fied with their bodies (Akan & Grilo, 1995; Chandler, Abood, ter about themselves on the dimension of comparison) and
Lee, Cleveland, & Daly, 1994; Harris, Walters, & Waschull, people make upward comparisons for purposes of self-im-

194 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal © International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005
provement (i.e., to find out how they can become better along d: Singaporean women will have lower scores on fit-
whatever dimension they are comparing). Both self-enhance- ness orientation than U.S. women.
ment and self-improvement might be inappropriate in col-
lectivist societies, in which harmonizing with others is highly
desirable (Jung et al., 1996). Alternatively, people in indi-
vidualist societies may feel pressure to improve and enhance Method
themselves and to seek information by comparing themselves
with others (Markus & Kitayama, 1991).
Sample
Hypotheses Respondents were 202 Korean college women, 171
Based on the previous arguments the following hypoth- African-American college women, 47 Singaporean college
eses were formulated. men, 52 Singaporean college women, 109 Caucasian-Ameri-
H1 Body image will be positively related to self-esteem can college women, and 6 Caucasian-American college men.
across diverse respondent groups. There were 53 men and 534 women. In all, 587 volunteer
H2 Attitudes toward gender roles will be positively related respondents returned questionnaires, all of them usable,
to self-esteem across diverse respondent groups. although some of the questionnaires contained items with
H3 The relationship between body image2 and self-esteem missing responses. Because of the large disparity between
in women will be mediated by attitudes toward gender numbers of men and women and because men and women
roles. tend to differ both in self-esteem (Belle, 1990; Newmann,
a. Self-esteem and appearance orientation will be posi- 1986; Russo, Green, & Knight, 1993) and body image
tively related among women with traditional attitudes (Levinson, Powell, & Steelman, 1985; Pliner, Chaiken, &
toward gender roles, but not among women with non- Flett, 1990; Silberstein, Striegel-Moore, Timko, & Rodin,
traditional attitudes toward gender roles. 1988; Sullivan & Harnish, 1990), only the responses from
b. Self-esteem and fitness orientation will be positively the 534 women were used in the analyses. Participants were
related among women with traditional attitudes to- selected from Korea and Singapore because both societies
ward gender roles, but not among women with non- were identified by Hofstede (1980, 1983) as collectivist.
traditional attitudes gender roles.
H4 Social group differences within a society will be related Procedure
to body image and self-esteem. All questionnaires were administered in English. The
a: African-American women will have higher scores Korean college women were students from seven universi-
in body image than Caucasian-American women. ties in Korea and completed questionnaires in classes. The
b: African-American women will have higher self-es- Singaporeans were students from one university in
teem scores than Caucasian-American women. Singapore. The African-American college women and the
H5 As compared to women from individualist societies3 Caucasian-American college women were students from two
(e.g., U.S.), women from collectivist societies (e.g., universities in a midwestern U.S. state. The Singaporean
Korea, Singapore) will attach less importance to and and the U.S. students were given surveys to take home and
give less attention to aspects of body image. complete.
a: Korean women will have lower scores on appear-
ance orientation than U.S. women. Instrument
b: Korean women will have lower scores on fitness ori- Self-administered questionnaires contained some de-
entation4 than U.S. women. mographic items and measures of body image, attitudes
c: Singaporean women will have lower scores on ap- toward gender roles, and self-esteem. The Attitudes To-
pearance orientation than U.S. women. ward Women Scale (Spence, Helmreich, & Stapp, 1973)
assessed attitudes toward traditional and non-traditional
gender roles. Scale items reflect roles and behaviors that
could be normative for either men or women. Twenty-two
items are presented in a Likert-type format (5 = agree; 1 =
2
Orientation to appearance (Appearance Orientation) and orientation disagree); scores are summed for an overall score. Higher
to fitness (Fitness Orientation) measure the importance placed on and scores indicate a less traditional (or more egalitarian) per-
the attention given to appearance and fitness as domains of body im-
age, respectively. spective of gender roles (possible range = 22 to 110).
Typical items include “If a woman goes out to work her
3
Although other between group differences are likely to exist, they may husband should share the housework, such as washing
not be meaningful. For example, differences in levels of self-esteem dishes, cleaning, and cooking” and “Women earning as
between people from individualist and collectivist societies may not
reflect true differences (Markus & Kitayama, 1991). Such differences, much as their dates should pay for themselves when going
if they exist, are likely to simply reflect the fact that in collectivist out with them.” Adequate psychometric properties (Nelson,
societies people are more likely to be rewarded for completing cultur- 1988) have been found for this measure and it has been
ally sanctioned tasks than for esteeming the self. used in other countries. Nelson found that a group of 123
American women under the age of 40 averaged 83.8 on the
4
Attention to fitness is an important component of body image, be-
cause if one is fit, one is likely to also be thin and toned both of which measure with a standard deviation of 10.2. In addition,
are directly related to late 20th Century appearance ideals (Banner, 1983; Lennon and Rudd (1994) reported that their 194 female
Beuf, 1990; Freedman, 1986). college students averaged 88.7 with a range of 51 to 109.

© International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005 Volume 17 #4 1999 195


Self-esteem was assessed using the Rosenberg Self- 23.8 years, 5' 5" tall, and 151.8 pounds. Korean college
Esteem Inventory (1965), a valid and reliable measure of women indicated age and reported categories for height and
global self-esteem (Demo, 1985; Rosenberg, 1965). For weight rather than actual values. The average age of the
example, Rosenberg (1965; 1979) reported test-retest Korean college women was 20.6 years, their modal height
reliabilities ranging from .82 to .88. In addition, the mea- most commonly ranged from 5' 1" to 5' 5", and their modal
sure has been used in other research studying body image weight ranged between 110 to 120 pounds.
(e.g., Akan & Grilo, 1995; Lennon & Rudd, 1994; Thomas, To determine relationships among self-esteem, body
1989). The instrument consists of 10 statements (5 = agree, image, and attitudes toward gender roles across the four
1 = disagree). An overall score is formed by summing in- respondent groups, a multiple regression analysis was per-
dividual item responses. High self-esteem is associated with formed. The predictor variables were the 11 body image
self-acceptance, whereas low self-esteem is associated with subscales and attitudes toward gender roles; the criterion
a variety of psychological problems (Brown, Bifulco, Har- was self-esteem. Seven of the eight significant predictor
ris, & Bridge, 1986; Katzman & Wolchik, 1984), including variables were positively related to self-esteem (appearance
depression (Russo, Green, & Knight, 1993). Lennon and evaluation, fitness evaluation, attitudes toward gender roles,
Rudd (1994) reported an average self-esteem score of 38.7 body areas satisfaction, illness orientation, health evalua-
with a range of 24 to 50 for 194 college women. tion, weight label) and one was negatively related to self-
Body image was measured by the Multi-dimensional esteem (weight preoccupation). Together these eight sig-
Body Self Relations Questionnaire (MBSRQ) which was nificant predictor variables accounted for 49% (R2 = .49) of
developed by Cash and his team (Brown, Cash, & Mikulka, the explained variance in self-esteem (See Table 1 for all
1990; Cash, Winstead, & Janda, 1986). Developed from regression statistics). In terms of goodness of fit, the mul-
the Body Self Relations Questionnaire (BSRQ) (Winstead tiple correlation between the observed scores and the pre-
& Cash, 1984), the MBSRQ has been shown to possess dicted scores was substantial (R = .70).
adequate psychometric properties (Thompson, Penner, &
Altabe, 1990). The MBSRQ consists of several subscales,
the items within which are summed for subscale scores. Table 1. Summary of Regression Analysis for Variables Pre-
Evaluation subscales measure one’s liking and satisfaction dicting Self-esteem
with a variety of body image domains such as appearance
(Appearance Evaluation), health (Health Evaluation), and Predictor Variables Beta weight t (525) p<
fitness (Fitness Evaluation). The orientation subscales
measure the importance placed on and the attention given Appearance Evaluation .40 8.88 .0001
to domains of body image including appearance (Appear-
ance Orientation), health (Health Orientation), fitness (Fit- Fitness Evaluation .15 4.15 .0001
ness Orientation), and illness (Illness Orientation). Appear- Attitudes Toward Gender Roles .11 3.36 .001
ance Satisfaction measures satisfaction with overall appear- Body Areas Satisfaction Score .09 2.11 .05
ance and Body Areas Satisfaction measures satisfaction with Illness Orientation .12 3.58 .001
body characteristics associated with size/shape (i.e., weight,
Health Evaluation .10 2.80 .01
height, lower torso, mid torso, upper torso), fitness (i.e.,
muscle tone), and facial attractiveness (i.e., face, hair). The Weight Preoccupation -.11 -2.95 .005
Weight Preoccupation subscale measures self-reported Weight Label .09 2.75 .01
concern with weight and the Weight Label subscale mea-
sures the extent to which one is self- and/or other-identi- Multiple R .70
fied as overweight. Although the BSRQ and the MBSRQ R2
.49
have been used extensively, few means and standard devia-
F(8, 525) 63.38 .0001
tions for some of the subscales have been reported in the
literature. For example, Cash and Henry (1995) surveyed
803 adult U.S. women and reported scale item averages
comparable to the following means and standard deviations:
M = 20.5, s.d. = 3.50 (Appearance Evaluation), M = 25.84, To examine differences among traditional and non-tra-
s.d. = 5.92 (Body Areas Satisfaction), M = 11.40, s.d. = ditional women in terms of the extent to which self-esteem
3.64 (Weight Preoccupation). is positively related to appearance orientation and fitness
orientation, each of the groups of women was split accord-
ing to the median scores on attitudes toward gender roles.
Median scores for each group were as follows: 83 for Korean
Results college women, 80 for Singaporean college women, 90 for
Caucasian-American college women, and 85 for African-
American college women. Pearson correlations between
Average ages, heights and weights were computed if self-esteem and (a) appearance orientation and (b) fitness
possible. The Singaporean college women averaged 19.7 orientation were then calculated for those with traditional
years, 5' 3" tall, and 110.3 pounds. The Caucasian-Ameri- attitudes toward gender roles (n = 273) and also for those
can college women averaged 21 years, 5' 5 ½” tall, and 126.8 with non-traditional attitudes toward gender roles (n = 261).
pounds. The African-American college women averaged For traditional women, there was a significant but modest

196 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal © International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005
positive relationship between self-esteem and appearance Table 2. Univariate Main Effects for Group on Attitudes to-
orientation (r = .14, p < .05) and for the non-traditional ward Gender Roles, Self-esteem, and Body Image
women the correlation was non-significant, as predicted (r Subscales
= -.05, ns). However, for both the traditional and the non-
traditional women, modest positive correlations were ob- Dependent Variable F (3, 486) p<
tained between self-esteem and fitness orientation (r = .22,
p < .01; r = .24, p < .01), respectively. Attitudes Toward Gender Roles 13.38 .0001
To ascertain differences among the four groups on the Self-esteem 48.21 .0001
variables, multivariate analysis of variance was used with Appearance Evaluation 54.17 .0001
group as the independent variable and self-esteem, attitudes Appearance Orientation 4.97 .005
toward gender roles, and the 11 body image subscales as the
dependent variables. Results of the MANOVA revealed a Fitness Evaluation 33.27 .0001
significant multivariate effect for group, approximate F (39, Fitness Orientation 6.24 .0001
1418) = 13.19, p < .0001. To determine which dependent Health Evaluation 43.90 .0001
variables were responsible for the significant overall multi- Health Orientation 13.42 .0001
variate effect, univariate analyses of variance were per-
Illness Orientation 19.30 .0001
formed. There were main effects for group on each of the
13 dependent variables (all ps < .005). Corresponding F Body Areas Satisfaction Score 26.78 .0001
values are presented in Table 2. Significant differences Appearance Satisfaction 15.23 .0001
between means were calculated using Scheffe’s procedure; Weight Label 6.42 .005
means and standard deviations for each of the groups for Weight Preoccupation 5.97 .001
each of the dependent variables are presented in Table 3.

Table 3. Means and Standard Deviations for Group on the Dependent Variables

Groups

Dependent Variable KO* SI CA AA

Attitudes Toward 83.561** 81.392 90.751,2,3 85.393


Gender Roles (8.68) (11.35) (8.95) (10.10)

Self-esteem 34.281,3 33.272,4 37.031,2,5 41.613,4,5


(5.96) (6.39) (6.57) (6.38)
Appearance Evaluation 19.361,2 20.853 21.971,4 25.262,3,4
(3.69) (4.53) (4.11) (5.27)
Appearance Orientation 43.801 40.121,2,3 44.112 43.833
(6.72) (5.94) (6.23) (6.95)
Fitness Evaluation 9.011,2 9.563,4 10.951,3 11.292,4
(2.55) (2.30) (1.85) (2.24)
Fitness Orientation 39.551 42.15 43.911 41.68
(6.78) (7.17) (9.09) (8.98)
Health Evaluation 17.391,2,3 20.251 22.152 21.323
(3.70) (4.27) (3.86) (3.92)
Health Orientation 24.291,2 26.331 25.59 27.022
(3.70) (4.77) (4.13) (5.09)
Illness Orientation 14.801,2 15.083 16.251 17.402,3
(3.32) (3.30) (3.15) (3.49)
Body Areas Satisfaction 22.211,2 21.653,4 26.071,3 27.4822,4
(6.22) (6.52) (5.36) (6.44)
Appearance Satisfaction 3.021,2,3 2.441,4,5 3.512,4 3.473,5
(0.99) (1.54) (0.83) (1.18)
Weight Label 6.421 5.261,3,4 6.713 6.784
(1.91) (2.29) (1.02) (1.54)
Weight Preoccupation 11.621 11.29 12.382 10.351,2
(3.95) (3.49) (3.75) (3.68)

**Note: KO = Korean, SI = Singaporean, CA = Caucasian, AA = African American


**Note: Items with the same subscript are significantly different (p < .05).

© International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005 Volume 17 #4 1999 197


can-American women had more positive body images than
Discussion Caucasian-American women. Thus, H4a was supported.
Specifically, African-American women scored higher on
Appearance Evaluation and Weight Preoccupation (i.e, ex-
To examine relationships among self-esteem, body perienced less dissatisfaction about body shape). Thus, the
image, and attitudes toward gender roles, data were collected African-American women liked and were more satisfied with
from Korean, Singaporean, African-American, and Cauca- their appearances and were less preoccupied with their
sian-American college women and multiple regression analy- weights than the Caucasian-American women, although the
sis was performed. As hypothesized, body image (H1) and African-American women were heavier by an average of 25
attitudes toward gender roles (H2) were predictors of self- pounds. The two groups had similar scores on the other
esteem across diverse respondent groups. Seven of the eleven body image subscales. Additionally, African-American
body image subscales were significant predictors of self- women had significantly higher self-esteem than Caucasian-
esteem. Higher scores in self-esteem were predicted by more American women. Thus, H4b was supported. Taken to-
positive indicators of body image. One of the subscales gether, these results suggest that not only are the African-
(Weight Preoccupation) is scored such that higher scores American women likely comparing to an in-group standard,
indicate more dissatisfaction with body shape (i.e., lower they may also be discounting the dominant U.S. aesthetic
body image); thus, the sign of the relationship was negative. ideal. This finding is consistent with research (O’Neal, 1998)
In addition, the positive relationship between self-esteem on African-American cultural dress worn by professional
and Weight Label indicates that for our sample, labeling women. O’Neal’s African-American informants believed
oneself overweight does not suggest lower self-esteem. Thus, that an appearance that conformed to the dominant culture’s
H1 was supported. ideal was less relevant to them than one that allowed them
In addition, attitudes toward gender roles were posi- to express their ethnicity. Thus, although conducted in a
tively correlated with and significantly predicted self-esteem, different context, O’Neal’s African-American informants
replicating earlier research with Caucasian-American col- discounted the dominant U.S. aesthetic ideal.
lege women (Lennon & Rudd, 1994). The fact that body We hypothesized (H5) that as compared to women from
image and attitudes toward gender roles were significant individualistic societies, women from collectivist societies
predictors of self-esteem in participants who reflected sig- would attach less importance and give less attention to as-
nificant social group differences demonstrates the robust- pects of body image (i.e., Appearance Orientation, Fitness
ness of the relationships. Thus, H2 was supported. Orientation). These two particular aspects of body image
Traditional gender roles link femininity with beauty and focus on importance attached to and attention given to ap-
concern with appearance (Brownmiller, 1984; Freedman, pearance characteristics (i.e., clothing, grooming, physical
1988; Rodin, Silberstein, & Striegel-Moore, 1985). Thus, fitness). As expected, Korean college women scored sig-
we predicted (H3) that importance placed on and attention nificantly lower than the Caucasian-American college
given to appearance (clothing, grooming, and fitness) as women on Fitness Orientation. However, no statistical dif-
measured by Appearance Orientation and Fitness Orienta- ference was found between Korean college women and
tion would be positively related to self-esteem in women African-American college women on Fitness Orientation.
with traditional attitudes toward gender roles, but not in Thus, H5b was partially supported. Additionally,
women with non-traditional attitudes toward gender roles. Singaporean college women scored significantly lower than
As expected, Appearance Orientation (importance placed on the Caucasian-American and African-American college
and attention paid to clothing and grooming) was positively women on Appearance Orientation as expected. Thus, H5c
related to self-esteem among women with traditional atti- was supported. Although not hypothesized, the Singaporean
tudes toward gender roles, but not among women with non- college women also scored significantly lower than the
traditional attitudes toward gender roles. Thus, H3a was Korean college women on Appearance Orientation.
supported. However, in both groups of women Fitness However, H5a received no support because Korean,
Orientation (importance placed on and attention paid to fit- Caucasian-American, and African-American college
ness) was positively related to self-esteem. Although fit- women had similar scores on Appearance Orientation. This
ness has been identified as a part of the cultural aesthetic finding may be related to an increasing popularity of west-
ideal (Banner, 1983; Beuf, 1990; Freedman, 1986), this ern beauty in Korea. For example, Korean fashion maga-
variable may be more strongly associated with health since zines and other media typically feature highly attractive
it contributes to it; therefore, fitness may be important to Caucasian fashion models (Lee, 1997). In addition, the
women regardless of attitudes toward gender roles. Thus, cosmetic surgery industry in Korea is growing rapidly
H3b was not supported. (Glain, 1993). Furthermore, Korea is a male-dominated
To determine meaningful differences in body image, traditional country; therefore, women may be reinforced
attitudes toward gender roles, and self-esteem among the for holding traditional gender role attitudes including pay-
respondent groups (H4 and H5), multivariate analysis of ing attention to fashion and beauty. If true, then attention
variance and subsequent univariate analyses of variance were and importance given to appearance may be a way for
performed. Differences were found among the groups on Korean women to conform, rather than to be distinctive.
all 13 variables, some of which are meaningful in terms of For these reasons, it is possible that placing importance on
the theories discussed in this paper. H4 addressed the ex- and giving attention to one’s clothing and grooming is
tent to which social group differences within a society are viewed as appropriate in Korea, although the society re-
related to body image and self-esteem. As expected, Afri- mains overall collectivist.

198 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal © International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005
Additionally, H5d received no support because pline, competitiveness, and control (Hofstede, 1980), includ-
Singaporean, Caucasian-American, and African-American ing bodily control (Thompson & Hirschman, 1995). As such,
college women had similar scores on Fitness Orientation. individualism may be positively related to the extent to which
Perhaps (a) Singaporean society is not as collectivist as might people engage in appearance social comparison. Although
be expected or (b) in Singapore most college-aged women we did not measure social comparison and so have no direct
are physically fit. If so, then paying attention to and placing test of the proposed fit of individualism in the model, our
importance on physical fitness may be a way to fit in rather results are consistent with this conceptualization. Additional
than be distinctive. Thus, the Singaporean college women support is provided by the fact that cosmetic surgery is grow-
may engage in activities which focus on physical fitness in ing in Korea, which suggests that Korean women are en-
order to conform. In summary, individualism was related gaging in social comparison, even though it would seem that
in some instances to the importance attached and attention social comparison aimed at self-enhancement or self-im-
given to appearance characteristics, thus providing some provement would occur at low levels in a collectivist group.
support for H5. Additional research needs to be undertaken to directly ad-
Rudd and Lennon (1994) model revisited. All of the dress these issues.
hypothesized relationships received some support. Across
all groups, people who evaluated their appearances highly
also had high self-esteem. This finding is consistent with
the idea that if people are successful at approximating the Conclusions
aesthetic standard (presumably because they or others evalu-
ate their appearances as close to the ideal), higher self-es-
teem will result. It is also consistent with previous research Research with a large group of respondents represent-
which has shown that attractiveness (Mathes & Kahn, 1975; ing a variety of groups has provided strong evidence of the
O’Grady, 1989) and body image (Lennon & Rudd, 1994; positive relationships between (a) self-esteem and body
Lerner, Orlos, & Knapp, 1976; Simmons & Rosenberg, 1975; image and (b) self-esteem and attitudes toward gender roles.
Striegel-Moore, Silberstein, & Rodin, 1986) are both related In addition, attitudes toward gender roles influenced the
to self-esteem. Future researchers may seek additional sup- extent to which self-esteem was related to importance placed
port for this notion by asking people about the extent to which on and attention given to clothing and grooming. Social
they believe they approximate the cultural aesthetic ideal. group membership was related to body image and self-es-
In addition, the relationship between body image (in teem. Individualism did not always relate to body image as
terms of Appearance Orientation) and self-esteem was predicted and, thus, more work focusing on these variables
mediated by attitudes towards gender roles. Specifically, a is warranted. In addition, results support the relevance of
positive relationship was found between self-esteem and each of the variables and the relationships among them for
Appearance Orientation for traditional women, but no such the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model, although more direct
relationship was found for non-traditional women. Thus, tests of the model remain to be developed.
the extent to which self-esteem is related to attention given Rudd and Lennon (1994) acknowledged that the U.S.
to and importance placed on personal appearance was asso- standard of female beauty embodies Euro-American beauty
ciated with attitudes toward gender roles. This relationship standards, thus approximating such a standard may not be
would manifest itself through appearance-management be- possible for many women, especially for women of color
haviors or through the extent to which women internalize (Neal & Wilson, 1989). In fact, African Americans have
and compare themselves to the aesthetic ideal. We did not experienced much social prejudice and discrimination based
measure social comparison or specific instances of appear- on appearance. Yet as compared to Caucasian-American
ance-management behaviors; therefore, these hypothesized women, African-American women were less preoccupied
relationships remain to be verified. with their weights and received higher scores in both body
The results relating to social group membership sug- image (e.g., Appearance Evaluation) and self-esteem. These
gest that social group membership may affect the coping findings are clear evidence that the dominant aesthetic stan-
strategy selected as people attempt to recreate their appear- dard need not be deleterious to women (e.g., Thomas &
ances according to the Rudd and Lennon model (1994). Not James, 1988) and is consistent with other research (Akan &
only did African-American college women have higher Grilo, 1995). We assume that African-American college
scores in body image than Caucasian-American college women were comparing themselves to in-group standards
women (as measured by two subscales), they also had higher which is a mentally healthy response5 in this situation. If so,
self-esteem. This finding suggests two things: (a) African- then perhaps others can be taught to do so. For example,
American college women place a high value on their own people experiencing body image disturbances or related
appearances, so they are not accepting the dominant aes-
thetic standard and may have a different personal standard,
and (b) they have high self-esteem, so they may be compar-
ing themselves to an in-group standard. Thus, social group
membership appears to be relevant for the model and to affect
5
Crocker and Major (1989) believe that people who are disadvantaged
along a dimension of comparison (e.g., appearance, athletic ability)
the coping strategy selected for use. selectively compare to others who are also disadvantaged on the same
Individualism was related to some of the hypothesized dimension of comparison (in-group members), instead of comparing to
linkages among the variables (i.e., H5b, H5c). Degree of others who are not disadvantaged on the dimension of comparison (out-
individualism in a society is related to independence, disci- group members).

© International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005 Volume 17 #4 1999 199


depression might be encouraged to critique or deconstruct behaviors and body dissatisfaction differences among black
media images in an effort to distance themselves from those and white college students. Eating Disorders, 2, 319-328.
images (see Pipher, 1994). Young people might be taught Cooley, C. H. (1902). Human nature and the social
to generate their own standards for comparison, as well as order. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons.
to be more accepting of a broader range of appearance char- Crocker, J., & Major, B. (1989). Social stigma and self-
acteristics through activities in 4-H, family and consumer esteem: The self-protective properties of stigma. Psycho-
science classes, and Girl and Boy Scouts. logical Review, 96, 608-630.
Based on our results, future researchers may wish to Demo, D. H. (1985). The measurement of self-esteem:
study social comparison and appearance-management be- Refining our methods. Journal of Personality and Social
haviors within the context of the Rudd and Lennon (1994) Psychology, 48, 1490-1502.
model. In this research, we investigated self-esteem which Dion, K. K. (1986). Stereotyping based on physical
may contribute more to the personal identity part of the Rudd attractiveness: Issues and conceptual perspectives. In C. P.
and Lennon model than to the social identity part. Future Herman, M. P. Zanna, & E. T. Higgins (Eds.), Appearance,
researchers may also wish to study collective self-esteem stigma, and social behavior: The Ontario Symposium on
(Luhtanen & Crocker, 1992) in individualist and collectiv- Personality and Social Psychology (Vol. 3, pp. 7-21).
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Dionne, M., Davis, C., Fox, J., & Gurevich, M. (1995).
Feminist ideology as a predictor of body dissatisfaction in
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