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Sharron J. Lennon
Nancy A. Rudd
Bridgette Sloan
Jae Sook Kim
Abstract
The Rudd and Lennon (1994) model of body aesthetics is used in this research to guide research investigating
relationships among body image, attitudes toward gender roles, and self-esteem. Questionnaires were completed
by 202 Korean college women, 52 Singaporean college women, 171 African-American college women, and 109
Caucasian-American college women. Significant differences were found among the groups on gender ideology,
self-esteem, and the body image variables. African-American college women had the highest self-esteem and ap-
pearance evaluation scores. More importantly, however, across all groups high self-esteem was associated with
positive body images and non-traditional attitudes toward gender roles. Additionally, social group membership and
individualism were related to body image. Results are explained within the context of the Rudd and Lennon (1994)
model of body aesthetics and suggestions are offered for future research within that context.
Lennon, S. J., Rudd, N. A., Sloan, B., & Kim, J. S. (1999). Attitudes toward gender roles, self-esteem, and body
image: Application of a model. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 17(4), 191-202. Key Words: body image,
appearance management, body aesthetics, gender ideology.
It is a cultural universal that people clothe, adorn, shape, Indeed, recent research (Martz, Handley, & Eisler, 1995)
and decorate their bodies to create an appearance to present suggests that stress associated with conforming to feminine
to others. Cultural factors, such as values of femininity, gender role expectations “may be the missing link between
affect how people evaluate their own and others’ appear- cultural values of femininity and vulnerability for eating
ances. For example, in western societies women are ex- disorders” (p. 493). Although this expectation for thinness
pected to be interested in fashion and beauty, a significant in women is pervasive in the U.S. in the 1990s among ado-
component of which, at least for young women and girls, is lescents and pre-adolescents (Rudd & Lennon, 1995), it may
a thin body (e.g., Beuf, 1990; Cash, Winstead, & Janda, 1986; not be relevant to women from non-western cultures.
Freedman, 1986; Lennon, 1988; Seid, 1994). Such an ex- Personal factors also affect how individuals evaluate
pectation can be a precursor to unhealthy behaviors. their own and others’ appearances. For example, some
authors have found that individual levels of self-esteem
To females’ detriment, the cultural fixation on their (Lennon & Rudd, 1994) and attitudes toward gender roles
bodies as objects results in a standard of the femi- (Dionne, Davis, Fox, & Gurevich, 1995) are related to evalu-
nine ideal that is not only extremely salient, but also ations of one’s own appearance or body image. The pur-
virtually impossible to attain (Franzoi, 1995, p. 420). pose of this research was threefold: (a) to examine the extent
to which relationships exist among self-esteem, body im-
age, and attitudes toward gender roles across a variety of
different groups of individuals, (b) to examine meaningful
Author’s Addresses: Sharron J. Lennon, email: lennon.2@osu.edu,
Nancy A. Rudd and Bridgette Sloan, Department of Consumer and differences among the groups, and (c) to suggest variables
Textile Sciences, Ohio State University, Columbus, OH 43210-1295 which are implicated in the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model
and Jae Sook Kim, Clothing and Textiles Department, Chungnam Uni- of body aesthetics.
versity, Taejion 305-764, South Korea.
192 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal © International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005
Figure 1. Model of the effects of social comparison on the construction and evaluation
of appearance (Rudd & Lennon, 1994, p. 165).
constant over time and situations1 (Baron & Byrne, 1991; concern with appearance (Brownmiller, 1984; Freedman,
Rosenberg, 1965; 1979); however, it can fluctuate some- 1988; Rodin, Silberstein, & Striegel-Moore, 1985). Indeed,
what due to external events (Baron & Byrne, 1991). Self- researchers (Timko, Striegel-Moore, Silberstein, & Rodin,
esteem has been found to be positively related to attractive- 1987) have found that among young women self-ratings of
ness (Mathes & Kahn, 1975; O’Grady, 1989) and body femininity are positively related to self-ratings of the im-
satisfaction (Lennon & Rudd, 1994; Lerner, Orlos, & portance of appearance. This finding suggests that an at-
Knapp, 1976; Simmons & Rosenberg, 1975; Striegel- tractive appearance is likely to be more important to women
Moore, Silberstein, & Rodin, 1986) in women. For example, who hold traditional attitudes toward gender roles than to
Lennon and Rudd (1994) found that among college women, women who hold non-traditional attitudes (Freedman, 1984;
8% of the variance in self-esteem was due to body satisfac- 1986; Hatfield & Sprecher, 1986).
tion. In the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model, low self-es- Research shows that among women, an attractive ap-
teem may be a motivator of appearance-management be- pearance and self-esteem are positively related (Mathes &
haviors. If such behaviors are successful in approximating Kahn, 1975; O’Grady, 1989). Thus, because women with
the cultural ideal, higher self-esteem can result, thus rein- traditional attitudes toward gender roles (traditional women)
forcing such behaviors. place more importance on an attractive appearance than non-
Attitudes toward gender roles. Gender is a socially traditional women (Timko, Striegel-Moore, Silberstein, &
constructed concept that outlines guidelines (i.e., gender Rodin, 1987), traditional women’s attention to and mainte-
roles) for behaviors considered appropriate for men and nance of their attractiveness may also be an important facet
women. We argue that attitudes toward gender roles are of their self worth. For traditional women, self-esteem may
relevant to the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model because such be related to appearance-management behaviors, such as
attitudes may affect the extent to which women attend to cosmetic use, exercise regimens, food monitoring, and cloth-
and place importance on appearance. For example, tradi- ing selection. In other words, it is reasonable to expect that
tional gender roles associate femininity with beauty and for traditional women self-esteem will be related to the extent
to which importance is placed on and attention is given to
maintaining attractive appearances.
Body image. Body image is the mental image we have
1
Self-concept is often defined as the global perception of who we are of our bodies (Fallon, 1990); it is perceptual in that it re-
(Baron & Byrne, 1991) or as our self-identity, whereas self-esteem is flects our perceptions of our bodies and it is affective in that
how we feel about who we are. Rather than thinking of the self-con- it reflects how we feel about those perceptions. The topic
cept as static and unchanging there is recent evidence (Markus & Nurius, of body image has recently been addressed in the research
1986), consistent with the work of other scholars (Cooley, 1902; Mead,
1934), that one’s self-concept is in a state of becoming (i.e., it is open literature (e.g., Brown, Cash, & Lewis, 1989; Dionne, Davis,
to change based on new experiences and feedback from others). Fox, & Gurevich, 1995; Lennon & Rudd, 1994; Martz,
194 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal © International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005
provement (i.e., to find out how they can become better along d: Singaporean women will have lower scores on fit-
whatever dimension they are comparing). Both self-enhance- ness orientation than U.S. women.
ment and self-improvement might be inappropriate in col-
lectivist societies, in which harmonizing with others is highly
desirable (Jung et al., 1996). Alternatively, people in indi-
vidualist societies may feel pressure to improve and enhance Method
themselves and to seek information by comparing themselves
with others (Markus & Kitayama, 1991).
Sample
Hypotheses Respondents were 202 Korean college women, 171
Based on the previous arguments the following hypoth- African-American college women, 47 Singaporean college
eses were formulated. men, 52 Singaporean college women, 109 Caucasian-Ameri-
H1 Body image will be positively related to self-esteem can college women, and 6 Caucasian-American college men.
across diverse respondent groups. There were 53 men and 534 women. In all, 587 volunteer
H2 Attitudes toward gender roles will be positively related respondents returned questionnaires, all of them usable,
to self-esteem across diverse respondent groups. although some of the questionnaires contained items with
H3 The relationship between body image2 and self-esteem missing responses. Because of the large disparity between
in women will be mediated by attitudes toward gender numbers of men and women and because men and women
roles. tend to differ both in self-esteem (Belle, 1990; Newmann,
a. Self-esteem and appearance orientation will be posi- 1986; Russo, Green, & Knight, 1993) and body image
tively related among women with traditional attitudes (Levinson, Powell, & Steelman, 1985; Pliner, Chaiken, &
toward gender roles, but not among women with non- Flett, 1990; Silberstein, Striegel-Moore, Timko, & Rodin,
traditional attitudes toward gender roles. 1988; Sullivan & Harnish, 1990), only the responses from
b. Self-esteem and fitness orientation will be positively the 534 women were used in the analyses. Participants were
related among women with traditional attitudes to- selected from Korea and Singapore because both societies
ward gender roles, but not among women with non- were identified by Hofstede (1980, 1983) as collectivist.
traditional attitudes gender roles.
H4 Social group differences within a society will be related Procedure
to body image and self-esteem. All questionnaires were administered in English. The
a: African-American women will have higher scores Korean college women were students from seven universi-
in body image than Caucasian-American women. ties in Korea and completed questionnaires in classes. The
b: African-American women will have higher self-es- Singaporeans were students from one university in
teem scores than Caucasian-American women. Singapore. The African-American college women and the
H5 As compared to women from individualist societies3 Caucasian-American college women were students from two
(e.g., U.S.), women from collectivist societies (e.g., universities in a midwestern U.S. state. The Singaporean
Korea, Singapore) will attach less importance to and and the U.S. students were given surveys to take home and
give less attention to aspects of body image. complete.
a: Korean women will have lower scores on appear-
ance orientation than U.S. women. Instrument
b: Korean women will have lower scores on fitness ori- Self-administered questionnaires contained some de-
entation4 than U.S. women. mographic items and measures of body image, attitudes
c: Singaporean women will have lower scores on ap- toward gender roles, and self-esteem. The Attitudes To-
pearance orientation than U.S. women. ward Women Scale (Spence, Helmreich, & Stapp, 1973)
assessed attitudes toward traditional and non-traditional
gender roles. Scale items reflect roles and behaviors that
could be normative for either men or women. Twenty-two
items are presented in a Likert-type format (5 = agree; 1 =
2
Orientation to appearance (Appearance Orientation) and orientation disagree); scores are summed for an overall score. Higher
to fitness (Fitness Orientation) measure the importance placed on and scores indicate a less traditional (or more egalitarian) per-
the attention given to appearance and fitness as domains of body im-
age, respectively. spective of gender roles (possible range = 22 to 110).
Typical items include “If a woman goes out to work her
3
Although other between group differences are likely to exist, they may husband should share the housework, such as washing
not be meaningful. For example, differences in levels of self-esteem dishes, cleaning, and cooking” and “Women earning as
between people from individualist and collectivist societies may not
reflect true differences (Markus & Kitayama, 1991). Such differences, much as their dates should pay for themselves when going
if they exist, are likely to simply reflect the fact that in collectivist out with them.” Adequate psychometric properties (Nelson,
societies people are more likely to be rewarded for completing cultur- 1988) have been found for this measure and it has been
ally sanctioned tasks than for esteeming the self. used in other countries. Nelson found that a group of 123
American women under the age of 40 averaged 83.8 on the
4
Attention to fitness is an important component of body image, be-
cause if one is fit, one is likely to also be thin and toned both of which measure with a standard deviation of 10.2. In addition,
are directly related to late 20th Century appearance ideals (Banner, 1983; Lennon and Rudd (1994) reported that their 194 female
Beuf, 1990; Freedman, 1986). college students averaged 88.7 with a range of 51 to 109.
196 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal © International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005
positive relationship between self-esteem and appearance Table 2. Univariate Main Effects for Group on Attitudes to-
orientation (r = .14, p < .05) and for the non-traditional ward Gender Roles, Self-esteem, and Body Image
women the correlation was non-significant, as predicted (r Subscales
= -.05, ns). However, for both the traditional and the non-
traditional women, modest positive correlations were ob- Dependent Variable F (3, 486) p<
tained between self-esteem and fitness orientation (r = .22,
p < .01; r = .24, p < .01), respectively. Attitudes Toward Gender Roles 13.38 .0001
To ascertain differences among the four groups on the Self-esteem 48.21 .0001
variables, multivariate analysis of variance was used with Appearance Evaluation 54.17 .0001
group as the independent variable and self-esteem, attitudes Appearance Orientation 4.97 .005
toward gender roles, and the 11 body image subscales as the
dependent variables. Results of the MANOVA revealed a Fitness Evaluation 33.27 .0001
significant multivariate effect for group, approximate F (39, Fitness Orientation 6.24 .0001
1418) = 13.19, p < .0001. To determine which dependent Health Evaluation 43.90 .0001
variables were responsible for the significant overall multi- Health Orientation 13.42 .0001
variate effect, univariate analyses of variance were per-
Illness Orientation 19.30 .0001
formed. There were main effects for group on each of the
13 dependent variables (all ps < .005). Corresponding F Body Areas Satisfaction Score 26.78 .0001
values are presented in Table 2. Significant differences Appearance Satisfaction 15.23 .0001
between means were calculated using Scheffe’s procedure; Weight Label 6.42 .005
means and standard deviations for each of the groups for Weight Preoccupation 5.97 .001
each of the dependent variables are presented in Table 3.
Table 3. Means and Standard Deviations for Group on the Dependent Variables
Groups
198 Clothing and Textiles Research Journal © International Textile & Apparel Association, 2005
Additionally, H5d received no support because pline, competitiveness, and control (Hofstede, 1980), includ-
Singaporean, Caucasian-American, and African-American ing bodily control (Thompson & Hirschman, 1995). As such,
college women had similar scores on Fitness Orientation. individualism may be positively related to the extent to which
Perhaps (a) Singaporean society is not as collectivist as might people engage in appearance social comparison. Although
be expected or (b) in Singapore most college-aged women we did not measure social comparison and so have no direct
are physically fit. If so, then paying attention to and placing test of the proposed fit of individualism in the model, our
importance on physical fitness may be a way to fit in rather results are consistent with this conceptualization. Additional
than be distinctive. Thus, the Singaporean college women support is provided by the fact that cosmetic surgery is grow-
may engage in activities which focus on physical fitness in ing in Korea, which suggests that Korean women are en-
order to conform. In summary, individualism was related gaging in social comparison, even though it would seem that
in some instances to the importance attached and attention social comparison aimed at self-enhancement or self-im-
given to appearance characteristics, thus providing some provement would occur at low levels in a collectivist group.
support for H5. Additional research needs to be undertaken to directly ad-
Rudd and Lennon (1994) model revisited. All of the dress these issues.
hypothesized relationships received some support. Across
all groups, people who evaluated their appearances highly
also had high self-esteem. This finding is consistent with
the idea that if people are successful at approximating the Conclusions
aesthetic standard (presumably because they or others evalu-
ate their appearances as close to the ideal), higher self-es-
teem will result. It is also consistent with previous research Research with a large group of respondents represent-
which has shown that attractiveness (Mathes & Kahn, 1975; ing a variety of groups has provided strong evidence of the
O’Grady, 1989) and body image (Lennon & Rudd, 1994; positive relationships between (a) self-esteem and body
Lerner, Orlos, & Knapp, 1976; Simmons & Rosenberg, 1975; image and (b) self-esteem and attitudes toward gender roles.
Striegel-Moore, Silberstein, & Rodin, 1986) are both related In addition, attitudes toward gender roles influenced the
to self-esteem. Future researchers may seek additional sup- extent to which self-esteem was related to importance placed
port for this notion by asking people about the extent to which on and attention given to clothing and grooming. Social
they believe they approximate the cultural aesthetic ideal. group membership was related to body image and self-es-
In addition, the relationship between body image (in teem. Individualism did not always relate to body image as
terms of Appearance Orientation) and self-esteem was predicted and, thus, more work focusing on these variables
mediated by attitudes towards gender roles. Specifically, a is warranted. In addition, results support the relevance of
positive relationship was found between self-esteem and each of the variables and the relationships among them for
Appearance Orientation for traditional women, but no such the Rudd and Lennon (1994) model, although more direct
relationship was found for non-traditional women. Thus, tests of the model remain to be developed.
the extent to which self-esteem is related to attention given Rudd and Lennon (1994) acknowledged that the U.S.
to and importance placed on personal appearance was asso- standard of female beauty embodies Euro-American beauty
ciated with attitudes toward gender roles. This relationship standards, thus approximating such a standard may not be
would manifest itself through appearance-management be- possible for many women, especially for women of color
haviors or through the extent to which women internalize (Neal & Wilson, 1989). In fact, African Americans have
and compare themselves to the aesthetic ideal. We did not experienced much social prejudice and discrimination based
measure social comparison or specific instances of appear- on appearance. Yet as compared to Caucasian-American
ance-management behaviors; therefore, these hypothesized women, African-American women were less preoccupied
relationships remain to be verified. with their weights and received higher scores in both body
The results relating to social group membership sug- image (e.g., Appearance Evaluation) and self-esteem. These
gest that social group membership may affect the coping findings are clear evidence that the dominant aesthetic stan-
strategy selected as people attempt to recreate their appear- dard need not be deleterious to women (e.g., Thomas &
ances according to the Rudd and Lennon model (1994). Not James, 1988) and is consistent with other research (Akan &
only did African-American college women have higher Grilo, 1995). We assume that African-American college
scores in body image than Caucasian-American college women were comparing themselves to in-group standards
women (as measured by two subscales), they also had higher which is a mentally healthy response5 in this situation. If so,
self-esteem. This finding suggests two things: (a) African- then perhaps others can be taught to do so. For example,
American college women place a high value on their own people experiencing body image disturbances or related
appearances, so they are not accepting the dominant aes-
thetic standard and may have a different personal standard,
and (b) they have high self-esteem, so they may be compar-
ing themselves to an in-group standard. Thus, social group
membership appears to be relevant for the model and to affect
5
Crocker and Major (1989) believe that people who are disadvantaged
along a dimension of comparison (e.g., appearance, athletic ability)
the coping strategy selected for use. selectively compare to others who are also disadvantaged on the same
Individualism was related to some of the hypothesized dimension of comparison (in-group members), instead of comparing to
linkages among the variables (i.e., H5b, H5c). Degree of others who are not disadvantaged on the dimension of comparison (out-
individualism in a society is related to independence, disci- group members).
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