TECHNICAL BULLETIN

Thread Usage Calculations

All GSD Thread Usage Calculations are based on the Stitch configurations
defined in
BS 3870 – Stitches and Seams
Part 1 – Classification and terminology of Stitch Types.

The Thread Usage Formulae use the following Parameters and calculated
Values

ID Description
X Thread Diameter
M Material Thickness
B Average Button Thickness
N Number of Stitches per Cm / Inch
L Length of Stitch
W Width of Bight
D Diagonal Length of Stitch (1)
E Diagonal Length of Stitch (2)
Comment
Value is defined in GSD Registry Settings
Value is defined in GSD Registry Settings
Value is defined in GSD Registry Settings
User Input / posted from Machine selection
Calculated value
User Input / posted from Machine selection
Calculated value
Calculated value

To allow for varying

conditions the 3
Parameters:-

Average Thread
Diameter
Average Material
Thickness
Average Button
Thickness

are defined in the

Sewing Parameter
Section of the Registry
Settings in the GSD
System security
Module.
List of available Stitch Types

To calculate Thread Usage within the GSD Operation Module all Machines in
the GSD machine Database must have a Stitch Type allocated. The Stitch
Type is basis of all Thread Usage Calculations. The GSD System contains
Formulae for the following Stitch Types

Class 100 - Single Thread Chain Stitches

101 Single Needle Chain Stitch
102 Double Needle Chain Stitch
103 Single Needle Blind Stitch
104 Single Needle Chain Stitch
107 Single Needle Zig-zag Chain Stitch

Class 300 - Lock Stitches

301 Single Needle Lockstitch
302 Double Needle Lockstitch
303 3 Needle Lockstitch
304 Single Needle Zig-zag Lockstitch
305 Double Needle Zig-zag Lockstitch
307 4 Needle Lockstitch
308 Single Needle double Zig-zag Lockstitch

Class 400 - Multi Thread Chain Stitches

401 Single Needle Chain Stitch
402 Double Needle Chain Stitch
403 3 Needle Chain Stitch
404 Single Needle Zig-zag Chain Stitch
405 Double Needle Zig-zag Chain Stitch
406 Double Needle Chain Stitch
407 3 Needle Chain Stitch
408 Double Needle Chain Stitch with Cover Thread
Class 500 - Overedge Chain Stitches

501 Single Thread Overedge Stitch

502 Single Needle - 2 Thread Overedge Stitch
503 Single Needle - 2 Thread Overedge Stitch
504 Single Needle - 3 Thread Overedge Stitch
505 Single Needle - 3 Thread Overedge Stitch
506 Double Needle - 4 Thread Overedge Stitch
507 Double Needle - 4 Thread Overedge Stitch
508 Double Needle - 3 Thread Overedge Stitch
509 Double Needle - 3 Thread Overedge Stitch
512 Double Needle - 4 Thread Overedge Stitch
514 Double Needle - 4 Thread Overedge Stitch

Class 600 - Covering Chain Stitches

601 Double Needle - 3 Thread Cover Stitch
602 Double Needle - 4 Thread Cover Stitch
603 Double Needle - 5 Thread Cover Stitch
604 3 Needle - 6 Thread Cover Stitch
605 3 Needle - 5 Thread Cover Stitch
606 4 Needle - 9 Thread Cover Stitch
607 4 Needle - 6 Thread Cover Stitch
608 4 Needle - 7 Thread Cover Stitch
609 4 Needle - 6 Thread Cover Stitch

Class 800 – Combination Stitch

801 401 + 503 Combination Stitch
802 401 + 504 Combination Stitch
803 301 + 504 Combination Stitch
804 301 + 503 Combination Stitch
805 401 + 602 Combination Stitch
806 2 x 401 + 503 Combination Stitch

Bartack
107 Bartack
304 Bartack

Buttonhole Button Sew

107 Buttonhole
304 Buttonhole
404 Buttonhole
107 Buttonsew
304 Buttonsew
Stitch Type Selection – GSD Company Data Editor

Available Stitch
Types can be
selected from the
Drop-down Combo
Box.

Manual input is not

available.

Click the Button ‘?’

next to the Stitch
Type selection Box
to display an
Image of the
current selected
Stitch
configuration.
GSD Operations Module

On selection of a Machine, the

Stitch Type is posted to the non-
editable Textbox.

Click the ‘?’ Button to display an

Image of the current selected
Stitch configuration.

The other parameters required to

calculate Thread usage are:-
Stch/Cm
Width of Bight
Waste / Seam

The default waste value is posted

from the Accessories Database
Table based on the selected
Trimming device.

The final Thread Usage Values

are totalled into 3 Groups to be
transferred for calculation of total
thread usage in the GSD Style
Module.
NOTE:
To ensure that Total Thread usage is calculated and allocated correctly to the
Totals for Machines 1 or 2 use the Sewing Codes SxMA or the MS1A MS1B
and MS1C Codes with the suffix 1 or 2 to indicate the machine used.
Sewing Codes without suffix are always classed as Machine 1.

NOTE:
To ensure that Total Thread usage is calculated correctly where the Analysis
Detail Frequency is set to Zero to Limit out Time Values the Frequency should
be entered as 2 Values separated by a colon, where the left Value is the
Frequency applied to the Time Vale and right Value is the Frequency applied
to the Thread Usage.
AUTOMATIC CYCLE TIMES
Please note, the following additional GSD Codes have been incorporated
within the GSD system to accommodate the use of Automatic Cycle
machinery to calculate correct Thread usage. These new Codes should
always be used in preference to the ‘Z’ Codes (Machine Cycle Time) where
thread usage is to be calculated.

The codes read : SxAC SxBT SxBH SxBS

where :

S The letter to indicate that the action is related to sewing and that the
TMUs generated via the related sewing formula are Machine TMU and
should be posted to Machine TMU Total for calculation of SMV.

x A number which indicates the total stitches to be sewn in the cycle.

AC Automatic Cycle Machine

BT Bartack
BS Button Sew
BH Buttonhole
______________________________________________________________

See TBULL430_07
for additional information on the use of Sewing Formulae.